Allure

btehae uyetayr in MAKING NEWS MASON POOLE A LOOK BACK at 365 days of music and protest, politics and sports that brought new weight to the concept of a “BEAUTY STATEMENT.“ BY DAVID DENICOLO Beyoncé’s Renaissance album looks gave us endless inspiration this year. Here, she accessorizes with a Mugler breastplate, a cocktail, and a microphone gun (a reference to Prince).

MAKING NEWS F or 30-plus years, Allure has been reporting on those ever-more-frequent moments when beauty bursts from its narrow lane of hair, makeup, and JUSTICE FOR ALL skin-care trends to dominate the inauguration, Barack Obama Fulfilling a campaign promise that had acknowledged the phenomenon as helped propel him to the presidency, news and occupy a central space he took the microphone and said: Joe Biden nominated Ketanji Brown “To address the most significant Jackson to the Supreme Court. She is in popular culture. In 2002, when event of this weekend, I love her the first Black woman in history to have bangs.”) And there has been so Botox was approved by the FDA as a much more. Manspreading. Drag scaled this Everest of American everything, everywhere. Instagram Constitutional law. The honor was temporary treatment for frown lines, filters. Natural hair. NFL hair. Glass deeply humbling, as she frequently has skin. Tan moms. Lookism. said, but more importantly, it was the media became obsessed with Genderless beauty. Ageism. Stem cells. Maskne. We could go on, but earned. Not that there weren’t suburban Botox parties and a you get the idea. indignities to endure along the way. At her confirmation hearings, one senator free-floating anxiety that human As the Beauty Expert, Allure has always offered a unique perspective asked Brown Jackson to define a faces would soon lose forever on these moments, an ability to woman (a favorite transphobic bomb analyze, contextualize, and find the the ability to express emotion. melody in all the noise. After next lobbed by the right) and another month’s transition to a fully digital seemed to need her to explain how (Apparently, the word “temporary” brand, that ability will not change; internet porn works. Through it all, she it just makes us more nimble. So had temporarily lost its meaning.) with an eye to the future and a nod maintained a preternatural calm, to the past, welcome to Allure’s wearing an expression of composed Starting with two royal weddings Year in Beauty, 2022. exasperation on her face that MSNBC host Joy Reid described as “every Black (in 2011 and 2018), the incredible woman ever.” After Brown Jackson officially ascended to the Supreme trendsetting power of the Princess Court bench, she spoke about the of Wales and the Duchess of Sussex significance of the day at the Library of Congress: “I know that it is not about ruled the click economy. For eight me,” she said. “People, especially young years (2009 to 2016), anytime people, see themselves portrayed in me…. I remember what it was like as a Michelle Obama changed her young Black girl to feel utterly invisible.” And because of her, many more brilliant hairstyle, people lost their everlovin’ people are going to be seen. minds. (On the night of his second PREVIOUS PAGE GETTY IMAGES She’s That Girl Beyoncé’s Renaissance album is a love letter to all the queer and trans Black artists who have inspired her over the course of her career: Ts Madison, Kevin Aviance, Honey Dijon, and many more. Fans of Lemonade (approximately everyone on Earth) will recall the booming, gravelly voice of Big Freedia, “New Orleans’s queen of bounce,” on the track “Break My Soul,” which was a big summer hit. The song is ostensibly about trading work for fun, but the lyric “You won’t break my soul” can easily be read as a defiant cry from LGBTQ+ kids in Florida and Texas and other places where they face violence and hate and where politicians exploit their vulnerability for political gain. Unsurprisingly, “Break My Soul” was celebrated as a “gay anthem” (said the Washington Post) soon after its release. Since Renaissance is a Beyoncé production, looks will be turned. A teaser preview of the “I’m That Girl” video features Beyoncé in silver boots and an elaborate updo, wearing a metallic breastplate, which is useful for making breakfast (she cracks an egg on it). Also in the clip are a ponytailed dominatrix, a bedazzled cowgirl, green hair and metallic makeup, and, naturally, wigs without end. In a letter posted on her website just before the album’s release, Beyoncé thanked “all of the pioneers who originate culture…whose contributions have gone unrecognized for far too long.” Renaissance is anti-appropriation. When it comes to pop megastars, others of whom routinely borrow (okay, steal) ideas without credit, that is rare indeed.

SERVING greatness WILLIAMS PORTRAIT: TANYA AND ZHENYA POSTERNAK. SILOS: GETTY IMAGES. None of us wanted to face it. Yet it In 2019, Serena told Allure: Serena “Venus and I were unapologetically Williams on the had to happen sometime. Serena ourselves. We weren’t afraid to wear February 2019 Williams announced this year not braids. We weren’t afraid to be Black cover of Allure that she was retiring (there are few in tennis.” people to whom that word applies plain as day). Most of all, though, less) but “evolving away from tennis” Serena embraces her beauty. She she embraces her power. It’s a to concentrate on other pursuits. embraces her muscles and her power that extends well beyond Millions can remember the particular curves. She embraces sisterhood sports, beyond age or gender or thrill of seeing her take the court at and motherhood (her delight in her nationality. And it’s not physical Wimbledon, Roland-Garros, or the mini-me daughter Olympia is as power. It is the power to inspire. Australian Open. If you were ever lucky enough to witness this in person, the excitement was that much more palpable. And her explosive energy during play was breathtaking. Her farewell match this September in Arthur Ashe Stadium at the US Open seemed to encapsulate 27-plus years of her legend. The 23-time grand slam singles champion and four-time Olympic gold medalist strode onto the court to thunderous cheers and applause that echoed in the New York night and seemed to last until dawn. She wore a Nike tennis dress, featuring a six-layer tutu, reference to her six US Open victories, and a jeweled headband with gems stamped into her hair. Somehow, her cheekbones seemed more regal than ever. Serena’s ever-changing fashion and hairstyles have always been part of her appeal. And there is purpose in her choices. After the president of the French Open banned a catsuit that she wore to help prevent blood clots in her legs, which she had experienced in the past and during the birth of her daughter, Serena rather pointedly went on to dominate in a tutu. LOOKS DECEMBER 2022 ALLURE 57

MAKING NEWS in memoriam TO BOLDLY GO ROYAL STANDARD Nichelle Nichols If Nichelle Nichols is any measure, This year, we said farewell to two (left), Olivia there must be amazing beauty salons in space. For three seasons (1966- commonwealth. One was born for their work ethic and staying 1969) of the original TV run of Star power, their symbolism and dignity. Trek, and in several of the movies that was born Elizabeth of York in a grand Neither of their reigns will soon came later, she provided intergalactic house on Bruton Street in Mayfair, be forgotten. glamour. She was a constant on the London. In 1960, Lynn released her THE ONE THAT WE WANTED bridge of the Starship Enterprise first hit, “Honkey Tonk Girl.” That Australian British singer Olivia as Lieutenant Uhura, chief same year, a portrait of Elizabeth II Newton-John managed to embody communications officer. There she appeared for the first time on the some of the biggest American pop was at her blinking console, sitting one pound bank note. Throughout culture stereotypes: bobby soxer with a dancer’s posture, the picture of her life, Lynn expressed herself freely (Grease), neon, ’80s gym bunny futuristic efficiency in a ’60s bouffant, and ascended to the highest levels (“Physical”), roller-disco ingenue winged eyeliner, frosted lips, and of fame. Her best-selling memoir, (Xanadu). If being inoffensive were green hoops (or other statement Coal Miner’s Daughter, became an an art form (which it most certainly earrings) under her signature silver Oscar-winning film starring Sissy is not), Newton-John would be its earpiece. She considered leaving Spacek. Elizabeth II had fame she Leonardo da Vinci. Her perpetual the series after the first year to do a never wanted thrust upon her, and, perkiness and Top 40 singing made Broadway show, but, as the Los as head of state, was barred from her a huge star of the ’70s and ’80s. Angeles Times recounted after her speaking her own mind. Her personal But it was her role as a breast cancer death, a chance meeting with Dr. diaries may never see the light of survivor, thriver, fundraiser, and Martin Luther King Jr., an avid Trekkie, day. But both queens were admired advocate for research that was the made her change her mind. Nichols most meaningful. She founded the recalled that King told her: “For Olivia Newton-John Cancer Wellness GETTY IMAGES the first time on television, we will be & Research Centre at Austin Hospital seen as we should be seen every in Melbourne and left a legacy of day, as intelligent, quality, beautiful hope and healing for thousands. She people who can sing, dance, and can once sang “You have to believe we go to space.” She stayed. And the are magic.” In the end, she was. world saw. Loretta Lynn (above), Queen Elizabeth II (right) 58 ALLURE DECEMBER 2022

the last straw ON MESSAGE After decades of repression, Iranian women had finally had When you’re fighting an information war, you don’t enough. The spark that lit the flame of protest this year was turn down an opportunity to reach millions all over the death of 22-year-old Mahsa Amini while in the custody of Iran’s much-feared morality police. She had been detained for the world. Ukrainian first lady Olena Zelenska’s allegedly wearing her headscarf too loosely, a violation of the message discipline, whether speaking to the US country’s strict dress code. Her family said she was beaten to Congress, the Biden administration, international death. Women (and men) took to the streets to demonstrate news outlets, or Vogue has been remarkable. She their outrage at the country’s authoritarian regime. They and her husband, President Volodymyr Zelenskyy, marched. They chanted. They lit fires. Some women publicly cut off their hair or tossed their headscarves into the flames, an have shown themselves to be tremendously act of almost unimaginable bravery. A violent crackdown by the skilled at rallying hearts and minds (leading to government ensued and continues to this day. There are many dollars and weapons) to Ukraine’s side. Predictably women in Iran and around the world who wear hijab (which enough, the Vogue shoot attracted criticism— means “barrier” in Arabic and refers to modest dress that varies from those who said it glamorized war (it did not) from region to region) out of respect for their religion and and, bizarrely, from those who thought Zelenska culture. They are in no way complicit with the brutality of the was sitting in an unfeminine way. (Yes, WTAF?) Iranian regime and in many cases support the protests. Their Women supporters of, you know, sanity, began motto: “Hijab. My right, my choice, my life.” posting pictures of themselves sitting in a similar fashion with #SitLikeAGirl. Zelenska told the BBC: “I believe it is more important to do something and be criticized for it than to do nothing.” So critics can sit down. VOGUE COVER: ANNIE LEIBOVITZ. REMAINING IMAGES: GETTY IMAGES. CAMERA READY Florence Pugh Rihanna For those who walk red carpets, these After wearing a sheer pink dress For some reason (oh, yes, the reason is corridors of fame can be places to make to a Valentino show in Rome, sexism), people have all sorts of ideas a few viral waves...and maybe even a salient Pugh had choice words for the about how pregnant women should point. This year, these three women weren’t body-shamers: “So many of you look. Sizzling hot is not generally one afraid to reveal something of themselves— wanted to let me know how I should of them. Rihanna never conforms and perhaps the power of vulnerability. be embarrassed by being so ‘flat to expectations and defied them chested,’” she wrote on Instagram. throughout her pregnancy in crop tops, Cara Delevingne “Grow up. Respect people. Respect lingerie, body-baring cutouts, and, at bodies. Respect all women. a Fenty Beauty launch in Los Angeles, The model and actor appeared this shredded halter by The Attico. on the Met Gala red carpet in a removed the jacket to reveal her Delevingne pointedly left her psoriasis flare-ups unpainted, an act widely praised for raising awareness of the disease.

ALLURE PRESENTS A NEW PODCAST HOSTED BY JENNY BAILLY, EXECUTIVE BEAUTY DIRECTOR, AND DIANNA MAZZONE, SENIOR BEAUTY EDITOR Join Allure as we explore the inextricable link between science and beauty — and don’t be surprised if you discover your next favorite serum, hair mask, or scalp treatment along the way. If you’ve always wondered what a wrinkle actually is and how retinol can make it go away, or why your hair is curly and which polymers will give it the most spring, come get nerdy with us! LISTEN & SUBSCRIBE TO THE SCIENCE OF BEAUTY WHEREVER YOU GET YOUR PODCASTS

TIKTOK, BOOM! TikTok has become known as the birthplace of bonkers trends—bucket bunnies, NyQuil chicken, the corncob challenge. Some are silly and harmless, others bizarre and dangerous. It’s no different with beauty. So we present the 2022 TikTok beauty matrix: Dangerous, harmless, useless, and effective are points on the compass. See if you agree with what goes where. DANGEROUS TIKTOKS: COURTESY OF SUBJECTS. SUNSCREEN CONTOURING: COURTESY OF ELI WITHROW. PERFUMES: COURTESY OF BRAND. CONCEALER SWIPE: VISSER TANNING CONTOURING LUCAS. KIDCORE SMEAR: ALAMY. REMAINING IMAGES: GETTY IMAGES. NASAL SPRAY WITH EFFECTIVE Inhaling L-tyrosine SUNSCREEN to increase melanin production has no Strategically applying proven efficacy— sunscreen to create or safety. contrast with sun damage is simply a terrible idea. PERFUME USELESS AS BUG REPELLENT Yes, Victoria’s Secret Bombshell may repel female mosquitoes, but it could also attract other insects. SKIN CYCLING PRODUCT A four-night regimen that FROTHING alternates between active Adding a barista’s tool ingredients and rest is to your beauty routine is actually a pretty great plan. really unnecessary. KIDCORE A refreshing, rainbow- colored middle finger to minimalism and “clean beauty” HARMLESS GYM LIPS If you want to work out with overlined lips and a heavy dose of balm, no harm done. DECEMBER 2022 ALLURE 61

PRH OISE NINI XG

Magda Butrym coat. Galvan bodysuit. To create a similar makeup look: Voluminous Noir Balm Washable Mascara, Glow Paradise Lip & Cheek Tint in Pink Serenity, and Infallible 8HR Pro Lip Gloss in Blush by L’Oréal Paris. These pages: Fashion stylist, Shibon Kennedy. Hair: Chris McMillan. Makeup: Gucci Westman. Manicure: Kim Truong and Diem Truong. Set design: Jeremy Reimnitz/ Spencer Vrooman Studio. Production: Viewfinders. JENNIFER ANISTON HAS SPENT MOST OF HER ADULT LIFE IN THE SPOTLIGHT, WITH ALL ITS GLARE. AT 53, SHE OPENS UP ABOUT HER PATH TO LEAVING REGRETS AND SOME DEEPLY PERSONAL PAIN BEHIND. BY DANIELLE PERGAMENT PHOTOGRAPHED BY ZOEY GROSSMAN 63

I She pours two tall glasses of smoothie. “Whoa, I hope you like sweet things,” she says. “Cheers.” If we’re being literal, the hills above western Los Ange- les are actually the only place where Jennifer Aniston We move to the living room—and step into two sides is the girl next door. That’s what people called her for of Jennifer Aniston. There’s a wall of artwork and floor- a long time. The girl next door, which is a ’90s euphe- to-ceiling windows. But there are also dog beds, a giant mism that means she’s unintimidating, approachable. sofa with a slipcover, and a really casual vibe. She’s not a But here, along avenues of impermeable iron gates, coaster person. Aniston sits on the floor and Chesterfield among houses hidden behind hedges grown to make jumps on the couch next to me. sure you know your place, the vibe is pretty intimi- dating. To live here, one assumes, you have to have Earlier I was texting a journalist friend of mine. I told achieved a certain kind of Olympian status, like having him I was interviewing Aniston and I asked him to give me been among the most beloved figures in American pop smart things to say. “One thought is this,” he texted. “No culture for 30 years. one’s ever going to be famous the way she is. That kind of mass-fame phenomenon burning so bright for so long, This is what I’m thinking when the gates to her house it’s just not achievable today. She’s like a silent-film star swing open and I enter onto a pea stone car park. Pruned among a generation of TikTok dipshits.” trees, gurgling fountains, 500-foot-tall front doors. Then suddenly, there’s a lot of barking and Aniston’s familiar I read her the text. “Whoa. Oh, that just gave me voice, somewhere inside, reprimanding her dogs. When chills,” she says. “I’m a little choked up. I feel like it’s dying. she opens the door—ripped jeans, tank top, barefoot— There are no more movie stars. There’s no more glamour. Aniston looks like she could be the owner’s out-of-town Even the Oscar parties used to be so fun….” friend crashing here for a few days. There’s something that’s distracting me. Yes, I do have She welcomes me into the house, which looks like a the feeling that whenever Jennifer Aniston fades into pos- comfortable art gallery and smells like a box of new shoes terity (something that doesn’t seem imminent; she has transported in a Louis Vuitton steamer trunk full of garde- two new movies coming out, and the third season of The nias. “Excuse my frazzledness,” she says, seeming pretty Morning Show), the station of movie star will be dimin- unfrazzled, as we walk into her kitchen. “I just had a whole ished. But it’s not that. It’s her hair. Her hair is the second thing happen at work.” She’s in the middle of filming the most famous thing in this house. You could say her hair third season of The Morning Show. “I just [found out I] was the second most famous thing on Friends. I can see have a few pages to learn of a huge interview scene.” the nuances, the parts of each strand that change to gold as she moves her head. It’s a little unsettling. Like seeing “Our interview can be a dry run,” I propose. your own reflection in Tom Cruise’s aviators. “Yes, this will be my dry—exactly. That’s exactly right.” Aniston at her most Aniston. It’s that thing she does. She About a year ago, Aniston launched a hair-care line, murmur repeats—part bumbling professor, part conspir- LolaVie, with a simple and ambitious mission: “Create a atorial best friend. product that is good for the environment, good for our Immediately, she’s welcoming: “Can I make you a hair, take out all the crappy chemicals, and have it per- shake? I’m having a shake.” I am not about to refuse a form,” says Aniston. homemade shake from Jennifer Aniston. Sure. Great. “I want to introduce you to my dogs.” She opens the Then she says, “I hate social media.” This is unex- door to where they’ve been relegated. “Clyde is amazing, pected. What do you mean? “I’m not good at it.” This but Chesterfield gets barky. You have to ignore him. Even seems…counterintuitive. As you may be aware, about if he licks your hand and you’re like, ‘Oh, there’s my in,’ he two years ago, Aniston joined Instagram. She opened an will jump and it seems scary.” I do as I’m told: aloof and account, posted a photo of the cast of Friends, and in the indifferent. I could be a French waiter. following hours, the platform rushed to accommodate “Okay, I’m making us a shake. Here we go.” I lean so many thousands of Jennifer Aniston followers that it against her kitchen island and watch as Aniston begins to crashed. Is that what she means by not being good at it? assemble the ingredients. Back and forth to the refriger- Like, is it hard because you’re too popular? Like in a job ator, in and out of cabinets, collecting little containers of interview when they ask you your biggest weakness and powders and a thing of nuts and then ground-up some- you say I guess I work too hard sometimes? things and there’s a banana and then shavings of some- thing elses. Am I okay with chocolate-flavored things? “It’s torture for me. The reason I went on Instagram “Yep, but I’m a vegetarian so just no bacon, please.” was to launch this line,” she explains. “Then the pandemic “Ha! I’m not going to put the bacon in! I’ll leave out hit and we didn’t launch. So I was just stuck with being on the bacon. I’ll leave out the bacon.” Murmur, repeat, per- Instagram. It doesn’t come naturally.” fect timing. “Let me blend this. Hold on.” She blends. Chesterfield I ask her about this. How, to people like us, who came —a big white husky? shepherd? lab mix?—starts barking. of age before InstaChat and SnapTube and FaceTik, social media can seem unnecessarily punitive, like checking in with the meanest girl from high school every 10 minutes to confirm you’re still a loser. “I’m really happy that we got to experience grow- ing up, being a teenager, being in our 20s without this social media aspect,” she says. “Look, the internet, 64

Calle Del Mar bandeau and skirt. Jenny Bird earring. MAM ring. Tabayer ring. To create a similar makeup look: Longwear Crème Eye Pencil in Noir, Tinted Moisturizer Blush in Southbound, and Hydrating Lip Balm by Laura Mercier.

Gucci spring 1997 logo G-string provided by El Cycèr Vintage. Saint Laurent skirt. Bulgari bracelet.

1998 COVER: SANTE D’ORAZIO. REMAINING COVERS: MICHAEL THOMPSON. great intentions, right? Connect people socially, social was because I wouldn’t give him a kid. It was absolute networking. It goes back to how young girls feel about lies. I don’t have anything to hide at this point.” themselves, compare and despair. I have flashes of every magazine rack, every airport “I feel the best in who I am today, better than I ever newsstand. Those “Jen Has a Baby Bump!” or equivalent did in my 20s or 30s even, or my mid-40s. We needed to headlines were everywhere (including Allure). We all felt stop saying bad shit to ourselves,” says Aniston, scolding entitled to the cellular happenings inside her uterus. We her future self: “You’re going to be 65 one day and think, I consumed those headlines, then dropped them in the looked fucking great at 53.” Something in her tone makes trash and got back to our lives. But she couldn’t. me think that this isn’t a typical “I’m proud of my wrinkles and gray hair” platitude. This goes deeper. “I got so frustrated. Hence that op-ed I wrote [for The Huffington Post in 2016, slamming the media for its “I would say my late 30s, 40s, I’d gone through obsession with her being pregnant and its treatment of really hard shit, and if it wasn’t for going through that, women, generally]. I was like, ‘I’ve just got to write this I would’ve never become who I was meant to be,” she because it’s so maddening and I’m not superhuman to says. “That’s why I have such gratitude for all those shitty the point where I can’t let it penetrate and hurt.’” things. Otherwise, I would’ve been stuck being this per- son that was so fearful, so nervous, so unsure of who Chesterfield is back on the couch, trying to curl up on they were.” She finishes her smoothie and reaches out to my leg. Chesterfield. “And now, I don’t fucking care.” “I think my mom’s divorce really screwed her up,” Maybe I look confused. She explains. Aniston says when I ask her about growing up. “Back in “I was trying to get pregnant. It was a challenging road that generation it wasn’t like, ‘Go to therapy, talk to some- for me, the baby-making road,” says Aniston, of a period body. Why don’t you start microdosing?’ You’re going several years ago. through life and picking up your child with tears on your On the scale of dumb things to say, this is the moment face and you don’t have any help.” when I really hit it out of the park. “I had no idea.” “Yeah, nobody does,” she replies graciously. “All the Chesterfield nudges deeper onto my lap. Aniston years and years and years of speculation… It was really pulls him off. “Come here, baby,” she says. “I know you hard. I was going through IVF, drinking Chinese teas, you want to, but you just can’t lick people.” It’s one thing to be name it. I was throwing everything at it. I would’ve given a dog person, but Aniston is next level. anything if someone had said to me, ‘Freeze your eggs. Do yourself a favor.’ You just don’t think it. So here I am “I forgave my mom,” she continues, getting back today. The ship has sailed.” to her human family. “I forgave my father. I’ve forgiven We sit quietly for a minute, maybe sad for all the my family.” (Aniston was estranged from her mother for ships that have ever sailed. I almost want to apologize to years.) Aniston for being a journalist. This doesn’t feel like any of my business. Who among us hasn’t tried—successfully or not—to “I have zero regrets,” she says. “I actually feel a lit- forgive our family? You in the back, put your hand down. tle relief now because there is no more, ‘Can I? Maybe. You’re lying to yourself. Families are things to be forgiven. Maybe. Maybe.’ I don’t have to think about that anymore.” Back then—and for years—there were headlines swirl- “It’s important,” she says. “It’s toxic to have that ing through pop culture that Aniston wouldn’t have kids. resentment, that anger. I learned that by watching my That she wasn’t interested or she just wanted to be a star mom never let go of it. I remember saying, ‘Thank you or whatever idea was selling that week. for showing me what never to be.’ So that’s what I mean Adding to the personal pain of what she went through about taking the darker things that happen in our lives, was the “narrative that I was just selfish,” she says. “I just the not-so-happy moments, and trying to find places to cared about my career. And God forbid a woman is suc- honor them because of what they have given to us.” cessful and doesn’t have a child. And the reason my hus- band left me, why we broke up and ended our marriage, One of the things her parents’ divorce gave her was motivation to leave. “My house was not a fun house to live in,” she says, about her family’s apartment in New York City. “I was thrilled to get out.” After graduating from LaGuardia High School of Music & Art and Performing Arts in New York City, Aniston worked as a waitress at Jackson Hole diner on the Upper THROUGH THE DECADES This month marks Aniston’s fifth Allure cover, creating a gallery of her unfading appeal. March 1998 February 2004 February 2011 January 2015 67

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West Side, and at an ice cream place in Lincoln Center. “It would be wonderful(“I’d make a shake and if there was leftover…? I finished it. Why waste this? I was rounder then,” she says, arching her home and fall into eyebrow.) Eventually, “I moved to California.” She arrived and say, ‘That in Los Angeles “the summer of 1989, which was yester- day,” she says. “I walked into a party in Laurel Canyon. This girl says, ‘Come with us. We’re doing a circle.’ I was like, ‘What’s a circle?’ It was all women and they saged you before you went in. Then a talking stick, I’m sure with feathers on it. The women call in the four directions, and I’m like, ‘What the fuck is going on? Am I in a cult?’ had to do personal work that was long overdue, parts of Hours later, woman after woman, just speaking, sharing me that hadn’t healed from the time I was a little kid. I’m thoughts and fears, worries. How incredible women are a very independent person. Intimacy has always been a for each other. That’s how I got into that world, which I little here,” she extends her hand an arm’s length in front guess would be called Woo Woo. It was very Woo Woo.” of her. “I’ve realized you will always be working on stuff. The women of the Woo Woo circle remain her clos- I am a constant work in progress. Thank God. How unin- est friends. She met the woman who would become her teresting would life be if we all achieved enlightenment producing partner that night. All around Aniston’s house and that was it?” are framed photos of these women—hiking, traveling, Coming out on the other side is what she calls “a little smiling, sharing their lives, this close-knit coven of old mosaic. It gets blown apart and then somehow gets put friends. Students of Friends (and whatever you think of back together into this beautiful mosaic.” them, they are legion—just witness the cultural jugger- I think of all the gossip and schadenfreude, all the hys- naut that was the Friends reunion last year) will know terical tabloid exclamation points, the clickbait. I think of that the show’s premise was about that time in life when all the crap the world has thrown at Aniston—and I feel friends are family. Aniston is a case of life imitating art. like she must have a really good therapist if she can find “I remember in high school doing a Chekhov play,” she a “beautiful mosaic” anywhere in it. But maybe that’s says. “It wasn’t funny, and I was making it funny. And my the point. We all break. Then the benevolent forces of teacher said, ‘Why don’t you just be funny because you the universe sweep in and collect our broken parts, our have it in you?’ And I was like, ‘How dare you? I’m a dra- flaws and jagged edges, and turn them into works of art. matic actress!’ Turns out, it was the thing that saved my Maybe that’s why our 40s feel more powerful than our life, comedy. It was a salve to make people laugh.” 20s: The universe needs time to assemble our mosaics. “There are people who say that watching Friends has “I didn’t want to partner with someone until some of saved them during cancer diagnosis, or so many people that work was done. It wouldn’t be fair,” she says. “I don’t with just so much gratitude for a little show,” she says, want to move into a house when there are no walls.” her eyes glassy with tears. “We really loved each other “You felt like you had no walls?” and we took care of each other. I don’t know why it still “It was terrible,” she says. resonates; there are no iPhones. It’s just people talking to We walk outside. Aniston’s backyard is a small botan- each other. Nobody talks to each other anymore.” ical garden with olives trees, a dusty path to the chicken Well, we’ve come this far. “Would you ever get mar- coop, and a feeling of total privacy. Across the yard from ried again?” the main house is a small cottage that’s about 90 percent “Never say never, but I don’t have any interest,” she windows. “Welcome to the Babe Cave,” she says. “This says. “I’d love a relationship. Who knows? There are was Justin’s office.” (Aniston and her ex-husband Justin moments I want to just crawl up in a ball and say, ‘I need Theroux split up in 2017.) “You can imagine he likes things support.’ It would be wonderful to come home and fall black and dark.” After he moved out, “I lightened it up, into somebody’s arms and say, ‘That was a tough day.’” stripped it all. He came over [the other day] and was like, Smoothies long gone, Aniston gives me a tour of the ‘What the fuck did you do?’ I said, ‘I brought the light back house. Imagine soaring views and spiritual shrines tucked in, buddy.’” into corners. We walk into the dining room with its majes- The view, the furniture, the palpable calm—you could tic table, heavy art books, charcoal walls. A few paint write the story of your life in a room like this. swatches are affixed to the wall. All in identical shades of “I’m going to do that one day,” she says. “I’m going charcoal. I don’t get it. to stop saying, ‘I can’t write.’” We walk back out to the “You can’t see the difference?” she says. You’d think I garden. “I’ve spent so many years protecting my story just told her how much I love the emperor’s splendid new about IVF. I’m so protective of these parts because I feel clothing. “Really? You can’t see how blue this one is?” This like there’s so little that I get to keep to myself. The [world] is paint swatch gaslighting. Paintswatching. creates narratives that aren’t true, so I might as well tell “I would love to be an interior designer. I love walking the truth. I feel like I’m coming out of hibernation. I don’t into a house that’s being torn apart and finding ways to have anything to hide.” put it back together,” she tells me, escorting us into her “If you were writing the story of your life,” I ask, “what own personal metaphor. would you call this chapter?” “I feel like I’m coming through a period that was chal- “What would you call this chapter?” Murmur, lenging and coming back into the light,” she says. “I have repeats. We look out at Los Angeles, blurry in the late afternoon smog. She smiles. She’s got it. “Phoenix Rising.” 70

to come somebody’s arms was a tough day.’” Aisling Camps dress. To create a similar makeup look: Ombres G Eyeshadow Quad in Majestic Rose, Tender Blush in Pink Me Up, and KissKiss Shine Bloom in Petal Blush by Guerlain.

T H ESWEET SMELL S E TO F T H E FOR SOME OF HOLLYWOOD’S BEST ACTORS, PERFUME IS THE ULTIMATE VIBE SHIFT. BY JENNIFER G. SULLIVAN PHOTOGRAPHED BY RYAN JENQ 72

Supporting Roles As more actors use perfume to get into character, it has earned a spot on Hollywood sets. Clockwise from top: Santa Maria Novella Rosa Gardenia, By Kilian Good Girl Gone Bad, Dior J’Adore Parfum D’Eau. Prop stylist: Betim Balaman.

Character Builder To help her transform into The Help’s Celia Foote, a 1960s-era Marilyn Monroe lookalike, Jessica Chastain wore Monroe’s favorite perfume, Chanel No. 5.

If you watch old episodes of Inside the Actors she says. “When my character was off duty, I wanted Studio, you’ll learn about the method and process that to feel more mature and powerful, so I wore Burberry actors use to become other people. Leonardo DiCap- for Men.” While playing two characters on the TV show rio slept inside an animal carcass to prepare for his The 100, Taylor says she spritzed “Tom Ford Café Rose role in The Revenant and Tom Holland secretly shad- for Josephine, who was the epitome of opulence. Café owed a student at a Bronx high school before film- Rose always made me feel lavish, elegant, and a little ing Spider-Man: Homecoming. One thing you won’t bit naughty.” For her other role, she chose By Kilian hear about is perfume. But it has quietly become a Good Girl Gone Bad: “It’s very floral, but has an earthy, character-development tool on sets and sound stages. cedar-type undertone, which made a lot of sense for Susan Sarandon, who wears a different scent for each Clarke, a character who was very kind and humble, but of her movies, shared the strategy with Kirsten Dunst, also scrappy and would kick your ass if she had to.” who has used it too. So have Gugu Mbatha-Raw, Emma Stone, and Penélope Cruz. “It’s a wonderful secret Sometimes, the transformative power of scent weapon,” says Laura Linney, who has also used fra- comes from a learned association (like a body spray grance to get into a character’s headspace. “It just hits reminiscent of the actor’s formative years), but often you in such a primal, deep place.” perfume’s magic is harder to explain. That’s where perfumers come in. Their job is to turn words and To say scent is “primal” is not hyperbole. The parts ideas into scent, something Azzi Glasser has done for of our brains responsible for memory and emotional numerous actors and clients. Director Karim Aïnouz processing evolved from a primitive olfactory cortex, recently called on Glasser to create fragrances for the and the intense connection between emotion and our cast of Firebrand, his upcoming psychological thriller sense of smell remains today. Unlike the visual or tac- set in Henry VIII’s court. For the villainous, gout-ridden tile cues of a costume, fragrance delivers its message king, played by Jude Law, she developed a sickly blend immediately, with no need for contextualizing. “When with a distinctly “human” element (blood and pus, to I learned that fragrance could trigger receptors in our be specific) and rose—a floral worn by noblemen at brain to change our mood, I thought it might be a tool the time. “Honestly, you wouldn’t want to smell it,” she to help me better transform,” says Eliza Taylor, who says. For Alicia Vikander, who plays Catherine Parr, the wears a different scent for each of her projects. king’s sixth and final wife, Glasser created a more pal- Jessica Chastain also relies on the technique. “My friend Fabrice Penot, the cofounder of Le Labo, helps me decide on the right one,” she has said. On the set FOR JUDE LAW’S ROLE AS HENRY VIII IN FIREBRAND, A P E R F U M E R D E V E LO P E D A S I C K LY B L E N D OF ROSE AND BLOOD SCENTS. of Terrence Malick’s The Tree of Life, Chastain wore an atable concoction based on English lavender. orange blossom scent to become Mrs. O’Brien, the While the scents are historically accurate to the human embodiment of love and grace. To play the CIA analyst Maya in Zero Dark Thirty, she went with era, Glasser says the process of developing a perfume a smoky, mysterious oud. “Celia Foote [in The Help] for a film is as much about the actor as it is the period was Chanel No. 5. Marilyn Monroe only wore Chanel or character. “It’s very personal, the way the molecules No. 5 to bed, so I thought, Oh, this is perfect,” Chastain react with skin,” she says. “It’s a mood enhancer and a has told Allure. (Foote bears a striking resemblance powerful tool, not only to the actor but to others on set to Monroe.) “Perfume says a lot about you before you as well.” Linney discovered this on the set of the 2016 even say anything about yourself.” It’s why other actors film Genius, also starring Jude Law as novelist Thomas make more literal fragrance choices: Ana de Armas Wolfe. “Jude had this fragrance that was so arresting— also wore Monroe’s signature perfume while filming it had tobacco in it and books and alcohol,” Linney Blonde, a fictional portrayal of the troubled actor. And recalls. “It was very subtle, so I was like, ‘What is going when Michelle Pfeiffer played the manipulative, mur- on?’ My experience being around him, it was visceral.” derous artist Ingrid Magnussen in White Oleander, she wore lilac, just like the character in the book. Linney was so impressed, she got Glasser’s info from Law and reached out to her for the 2017 Broadway Perfume can be a particularly useful tool for play The Little Foxes. “Cynthia [Nixon] and I alternated actors who need to toggle between characters on parts for that play and they were radically different, so set. Noomi Rapace drew on seven distinct scents to I asked for Azzi’s help.” For Birdie, a fragile character, help her become septuplets in the Netflix film What Glasser created a scent reminiscent of the Old South, Happened to Monday. Margot Robbie reportedly wore with magnolia and a French powder note. For Regina, perfumes from Playboy and Ed Hardy to transform into a more manipulative character, it was a perfume redo- Harley Quinn and her alter ego, Dr. Harleen Quinzel, lent of the poisonous flowers belladonna and hemlock. in Suicide Squad. And fragrance helped Taylor play Before Linney took the stage, she sprayed the scent an undercover police officer at a high school in the that corresponded to the character she was playing 2017 crime drama Thumper. “When I was playing the that night. “It physically ignites you to be in the rhythm high school student, I used a Victoria’s Secret body and time and place of the character,” says Linney. “It’s spray, which reminded me of my own adolescence,” a ghost through your whole body.” 75

STROKES OF GENIUS RIGHT NOW, THE FUTURE OF MAKEUP IS...WHATEVER YOU WANT IT TO BE. THE BEST PLAN IS NOT TO HAVE ONE, SAYS MAKEUP ARTIST AURORE GIBRIEN. SYMMETRY, COLOR THEORY, CONVENTION— WHO NEEDS THEM? GIBRIEN CREATED EVERY LOOK ON THESE PAGES IN THE MOMENTS BEFORE THE CAMERA STARTED CLICKING. “I HAD A MODEL IN FRONT OF ME AND WHAT DO I DO? IT WAS TOTALLY SPONTANEOUS,” SHE SAYS. “I LET MY BRUSH AND MY BRAIN TAKE OVER.” WHY NOT DO THE SAME IN FRONT OF THE MIRROR? “ANYTHING IS POSSIBLE—YOU MAKE IT YOUR OWN.” BY JENNY BAILLY PHOTOGRAPHED BY CORENTIN LEROUX

A Rosy Outlook Cheekbones achieve new heights when saturated with color and contrasted against bleached-out brows dusted with yellow shadow. Isa Boulder top. To create a similar makeup look: Artist Color Shadow in Buttercup and Chalk, Artist Face Color in Raspberry, and Ultra HD Lip Booster in Cinema by Make Up For Ever. These pages: Fashion stylist, Elena Mottola. Hair: Pablo Kuemin. Makeup: Aurore Gibrien. Manicure: Cam Tran. Production: Zoé Martin. Casting: IKKI Casting. Models: Cassie Wong and Lucia Clement at Premium Models.

Blue Note The key ingredient here: Nars Tinted Smudge-Proof Eyeshadow Base Primer. It holds on to powders for dear life “and it’s totally transparent, so I can use it on dark and light skin tones,” says Gibrien. To create a similar makeup look: Single Eyeshadow in Outremer by Nars.

Icy Hot Warm colors like red, orange, and pink take on a fresh effect when contrasted with a cool metallic silver, says Gibrien. Area dress. Saint Laurent and Justine Clenquet earrings. To create a similar makeup look: Eye Tint Liquid Eyeshadow in 43 and 54 by Giorgio Armani Beauty.

Feeling Flush When you’re wearing a teal micro bob, your statement has been made. So, for her part, Gibrien says, “I thought just a pop of orange was enough.” But, she notes, it’s a pop with a twist: The blush is higher on one side than the other. “It’s subtle but it’s there— like the asymmetry of the earrings, more on one side than the other.” Elena Mottola earrings. To create a similar makeup look: TruNaked Quad Eyeshadow Palette in Jetsetter, TruBlend So Flushed High Pigment Blush in Hot & Frenzy, and Exhibitionist Lip Gloss in Turnt Not Burnt by CoverGirl.

Golden Arches “Bleached brows give you more space to be creative, to play with shape and form,” says Gibrien. By the end of the shoot, this model loved the flexibility of her new brows so much that she declined Gibrien’s offer to dye them back to their natural color. Dion Lee jacket. To create a similar makeup look: SFX Face and Body Paint Palette in Brights by Nyx Professional Makeup.

Cheek to Cheek “I’m not a big fan of blush,” says Gibrien. Come again? A clarification: “If I do blush, it’s strong, for contrast and statement. Otherwise, I don’t do it. There’s no in-between.” Missoni dress. To create a similar makeup look: Cheeks Out Freestyle Cream Blush in Daiquiri Dip, Snap Shadows Mix & Match Eyeshadow Palette in Smoky, and Gloss Bomb Universal Lip Luminizer in Fenty Glow by Fenty Beauty.

Accent Marks “I wanted to show that even a small pop of color can add flash,” says Gibrien. Mission accomplished. With just two dots of yellow, classic makeup colors like pastel pink and deep brown feel new again. Bevza top. Panconesi earrings. To create a similar makeup look: Colorful Waterproof Eyeshadow & Eyeliner Multi-Stick in Gold, Mini Pocket Sun Eyeshadow Palettes in Warm Dusk, and Soft Matte Perfection Blush Duo in Snapdragon by Sephora Collection.

Blonde AS METAPHOR

THERE’S A NEW BLONDE ARCHETYPE EMERGING FROM A LONG HISTORY OF CLICHÉ AND OBJECTIFICATION. BUT TO UNDERSTAND THIS EXPLOSIVE CHANGE, IT’S IMPORTANT TO KNOW WHERE THE BOMBSHELL COMES FROM. BY ARABELLE SICARDI MURRAY GARRETT/GETTY IMAGES The ultimate blonde, Marilyn Monroe, arrives at Pigeon dung. Horse urine. Mud. Peroxide and ammonia. the premiere of her film There’s No Business Like Soap flakes, bleach, lemon juice. Gold dust and dye made Show Business in 1954. of saffron, the most expensive spice in the world. All of these have something in common: humanity’s relentless obsession with blonde. People across time and civiliza- tions have subjected their hair fibers to all of the above in pursuit of becoming more blonde. There is something about what it means to have golden hair, to have the kind of beauty that poets have written epics about, the kind that soldiers kept grainy photographs of in foxholes, that makes coating your hair with pigeon dung seem rational. Blonde is a dream to hold on to. Blonde is glamour, sex. When you think of a “blonde bombshell,” you think not only of the woman herself but of the frenzy of desire that surrounds her. You think, first, of Marilyn Monroe. Monroe’s celebrity owes itself to her peroxide habit and her well-documented beauty rituals. Every Saturday morning, she would fly her colorist Pearl Porterfield (who had also worked with Jean Harlow) from San Diego to Los Angeles to dye her naturally brown hair blonde in the kitchen of her LA bungalow. So protective of her trade- mark shade, Monroe didn’t like to work on a movie set with another blonde actor, refusing to film in such cases. With her hair dyed blonde, she was the center of gravity in every room she walked into. Monroe’s blonde is iconic because it meant desire and control. “It’s a very distinctive artificial blonde that you can’t hide behind. It takes a lot of maintenance; there are never any roots showing. It’s not only a statement, but it’s a very expensive statement,” says Rae Nudson, author of All Made Up: The Power and Pitfalls of Beauty Culture, From Cleopatra to Kim Kardashian. “You cannot divorce the context of what blonde has represented in Hollywood from what you want to be associated with when you dye your hair that color. It’s what you enter the room with and the projection that first comes to mind.” 85

Over the past 60 years, when people think of the term “Y O U C A N N O T D I V O R C E “blonde bombshell” they think mostly of Monroe’s doomed glamour and a long procession of white women WHAT BLONDE HAS following her footsteps in Hollywood. But the term has REPRESENTED IN accommodated more melanated members too. There is H O L LY W O O D F R O M the singer Joyce Bryant, nicknamed “The Bronze Blonde WHAT YOU WANT TO Bombshell” and “The Black Marilyn Monroe,” who coated BE ASSOCIATED WITH her hair with silver radiator paint and performed in a low- WHEN YOU DYE YOUR cut gown with silver mink fur, looking so immaculate that HAIR THAT COLOR.” reportedly even Josephine Baker would offer her flowers. Bryant’s career was at a high before Monroe ascended. 1 Veronica Lake was known for wearing her So, really, Monroe was “The White Joyce Bryant.” golden hair in a side-swept style that often cascaded over one eye. Still, you can’t dwell on the significance of blonde on stage and screen without thinking of how it has been 2 “The white hair feels like a light bulb [on my ERIVO: SHAYAN ASGHARNIA/AUGUST. STEFANI: ELLEN VON UNWERTH/TRUNK ARCHIVE. JOHANSSON: MARK SELIGER/AUGUST. shorthand for racial purity across countries and party face],” actor Cynthia Erivo once told Essence. KRAVITZ: ALEXI LUBOMIRSKI/AUGUST. LAKE, HARLOW, BRYANT, SMITH, HARRY: GETTY IMAGES. lines. The United States, Germany, and the Soviet Union “You can’t miss me.” produced many thousands of films that used blondeness as a symbol of white supremacy. There was The Blonde 3 Jean Harlow was born blonde, but a mix of Captive (1932), Trader Horn (1930), and Blonde Venus Clorox, peroxide, ammonia, and soap flakes (1932), which starred Marlene Dietrich, who wore gold turned the actor’s golden hair to the icy hue powder in her wig to shine on camera just that much that became her signature. more…as she stripped off a gorilla suit and sang about racial interbreeding, also called miscegenation (not her 4 Model Anna Nicole Smith was said to have best work, to put it kindly, and now a drag performance been “obsessed” with Marilyn Monroe and staple). There was also, of course, the original 1933 King emulated her look throughout her career. Kong, a movie so racially coded that there are rumors Hitler watched it obsessively in his bunker toward the 5 Joyce Bryant, a singer and actor who rose end of World War II. All these films starred blonde dam- to fame in the late ’40s and early ’50s, sels in distress. achieved her signature metallic blonde using radiator paint. So Proudly We Hail! was released in 1943 and capital- ized on anti-Japanese sentiment after the attack on Pearl 6 Gwen Stefani’s longtime hairstylist Danilo Harbor. The film’s climax comes when Veronica Lake’s Dixon has said that to maintain her character lets down her blonde hair, pulls the pin out of famous platinum, the singer dyes her a grenade, and walks slowly toward the enemy before roots every week. the grenade destroys them all—the Japanese flocking to her as if she was the goddess Aphrodite herself. 7 She’s gone mahogany and chocolate brown, but Scarlett Johansson just can’t quit blonde. But the original blonde bombshell, the woman for whom the term was coined, was Jean Harlow, who starred in Platinum Blonde in 1931 (when Monroe was five). Harlow dyed her hair with a chaotic mix of house- hold bleach, soap flakes, ammonia, and peroxide—until it fell out and she had to wear a wig. But the most lit- eral personification of the blonde bombshell origin story might reside with actor (and artificially blonde) Rita Hayworth. Her appearance was so adored that her image was taped onto a bomb used to test the potency of atomic warfare in the South Pacific at Bikini Atoll in the Marshall Islands. They named the bomb Gilda after Hayworth’s 1946 film. She reportedly hated the gesture. 8 Zoë Kravitz’s blonde has taken the form of long braids and close crops. 9 Debbie Harry embodies the name of her rock band, Blondie. 86

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OLIVIA MALONE/TRUNK ARCHIVE Going blonde at home became possible in 1956 when 2%ONLY Clairol introduced Miss Clairol Hair Color Bath kits. Copywriter Shirley Polykoff turned the come-on, “Is it OF PEOPLE WORLDWIDE true blondes have more fun?” into a slogan and followed it up with one of the most famous lines in advertising A R E N AT U R A L LY B L O N D E . history: “If I’ve only one life, let me live it as a blonde.” She immortalized blonde not as a look, but as a psy- color ties together their style. It completes it. You don’t chology. Before that campaign, 7 percent of American even remember what color they may have started with. women colored their hair. By the end of Polykoff’s time You notice them more.” on the Clairol account, more than 40 percent of Ameri- can women were coloring their hair. Blonde invites fantasy and myth-making. It’s no won- der Hollywood has embraced its most extreme versions. According to Polykoff’s daughter, the late Alix Nelson- Only 2 percent of people worldwide are naturally blonde. Frick, she wrote the copy as a means of exploring how to The rest of us manifest it into our lives for a time, for a win acceptance in a nation obsessed with putting women cost, because we want something different for ourselves. in boxes. “It really meant not ‘Does she?’ but ‘Is she?’” Blonde invites you to revise the story you tell about your- Nelson-Frick was quoted as saying in a feature Malcolm self in the world. While the story of the blonde bombshell Gladwell wrote for The New Yorker on hair dye as a sign of originated in a fantasy made by men, for men, the power the times. “Is she a contented homemaker or a feminist, of beauty is that we remix it every time we walk out the a Jew or a Gentile—or isn’t she?” In the same New Yorker door. It is never just a tragedy of our own insecurities, cul- piece, Gladwell described Polykoff’s approach to hair tural expectations, or the prison of male desire. It is about dye as a “useful fiction,” a “way of bridging the contra- how we navigate our own bodies, other people’s projec- diction between the kind of woman she was and the kind tions, our own self-regard, the stories we want people to of woman she felt she ought to be.” Blonde was a philo- know us for. It is a story of promise and transformation. sophical Pandora’s box. Blonde was a way for a woman to have it all—if only until she needed to buy more Clairol. Blonde has stood for a narrow and prescriptive ideal for a very, very long time—and it has all the propaganda The material impact of whether blondes truly have to prove it. But it also makes a promise to everybody more fun has been studied with seriousness. Blondes it lures. You can find a version of yourself in it that you make, on average, 7 percent more than non-blondes, might like, that you might even be charmed by. People per research published in 2010, by the University of won’t be able to look away. And you might get everything Queensland in Brisbane, Australia. A “beauty premium” you want. You’ll certainly get more attention. For a time. exists and studies show that having it makes workers For a price. Beauty, after all, has a cost. You decide every more confident, appear to have greater social skills, and day if it’s worth paying—and for what. be considered more productive by employers. Today, there’s a modernized take on the blonde land- scape, one that isn’t centered on desirability for a male audience, but rather a take-no-prisoners approach to achieving a look, a self-assuredness that people want to call in for themselves. Now when people want to channel blonde bombshells in the salon chair, they don’t just ref- erence Monroe or Gwen Stefani’s icier take, but blonde- braided Solange, Zoë Kravitz’s frosty era, Teyana Taylor’s wavy, ash-gray blowout, or Cynthia Erivo’s platinum buzz cut. Los Angeles-based colorist Gregga Prothero gives clients a disclaimer when they contemplate joining the blonde ranks: “It’s a statement that people will notice, and to do it right it has to become a lifestyle. It is a com- mitment and you have to be ready to join the ride.” Celebrity colorist Emaly B, whose clients include Scarlett Johansson, notes that the definition of a blonde bombshell has changed to become less sex-driven and more about finding the right tone to suit the wearer’s per- sonal style. “A blonde bombshell to me is someone super dynamic, someone you’re drawn to because they have cool style, they’re interesting. When I bring someone blonde, when they leave the salon, you realize the hair Pamela Anderson, seen here in a 2016 photo shoot, reportedly dyes her hair platinum herself. 89

A LOOK WE LOVE Flashback MICHAEL THOMPSON …to 1991, when Allure began, and ’80s turquoise shadows with red lipsticks were just starting to give way to the frosted champagne lids and metallic lip colors of the ’90s (déjà vu, anyone?). Here, two of the grunge decade’s beauty heavyweights—makeup artist Kevyn Aucoin and Naomi Campbell— teamed up to help us forecast what would become an enduring trend of the era: “Dramatic eyes and neutral lips make for a striking contrast. But earth tones, not brights, define the look,” Allure wrote in the November issue that year. —PAIGE STABLES 90 ALLURE DECEMBER 2022

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