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34DRESSMAKING ● HOME DECOR ● TOYS ● QUILTS PROJECTS INSIDE! FEB 2023 ISSUE 172 10 STYLES Make Lisa TO STITCH Comfort’s EASIEST-EVER TOP WRAP UPCYCLED DUNGAREES DRESS PLEAT-PERFECT SKIRT *UK sizes only. Pattern sizes may vary ... ALL MADE TO LAST YOCULRAFIMREE PATTERN Create MAKE TONIGHT PLUS! in sizes BOHO BANNER fHJouorlwlieesttsoUwszeoitwrh 8-24 PATCHWORK QUILT TEDDY BEAR TOY PUNCH NEEDLE CUSHION



Your new issue HAS ARRIVED Meet our f you’re feeling the squeeze post-Christmas, then you’re certainly not alone. Thankfully there are lots of EXPERTS Iways to be thrifty while sewing. This month, we’ve pulled together two garments from talented Swedish BOHO WALL HANGING, P48 designer Linnea Larsson who walks us through how to EMBOSSED CUSHION, P40 transform items that are already in your wardrobe into Subscribe TODAY! treasured children’s pieces: learn how to magic jeans into 3 ISSUES FOR children’s dungarees on page 26, and turn a faithful coat ONLY Debbie Shore into a jacket on page 24. £14.99 As well as these budget-friendly patterns, Simplicity reveals her tips on p56 for smocking has also offered up a veritable array of freebies for all of our readers. You’ll find a lucky dip of your favourite dressmaking patterns inside this month’s pack, and a send-away offer for Simplicity 9181, worth £12. Plus, turn to page 29 for great advice from our columnist Juliet, who shares some low-effort ways to sew economically. Fancy trying your hand at making your own toys Juliet Uzor too? Well, you’ll love our pool of hand-sewn treasures. chats crafting There’s an exclusive teddy bear project from Debbie on a shoestring Shore on page 70, as well as a teabreak read on the history of these beloved toys on page 59. Oh and turn to page 64 and you’ll find guidance from the experts on how to get the very best outcome when bringing the children’s new best friend to life. Stuart Hillard Happy sewing! gets inspired by Lucy Lucy Jobber, Editor the natural world *UK sizes only. Pattern sizes may vary FREE Order this Simplicity TEMPLATE pattern on DOWNLOAD page 18! sewmag.co.uk /templates Our exclusive DECORATIVE HOOP, P44 PATCHWORK QUILT, P50 patterns are available to download in sizes 8-24* We love to hear from you... We sew it, so you can trust it! Our @ editorial@ facebook.com/ Twitter Instagram Sew Magazine, 1 Phoenix mission is to help sewmag.co.uk sewhq @sewhq @sewhq Court, Hawkins Road, you create items Colchester, Essex, CO2 8JY we know you'll love; it's why all of our patterns are made and tested by experienced stitchers. 3 sewmag.co.uk

February 2023 53 Contents 42 48 34DRESSMAKING ● HOME DECOR ● TOYS ● QUILTS 66 50 PROJECTS INSIDE! FEB 2023 ISSUE 172 10 STYLES Make Lisa TO STITCH Comfort’s EASIEST-EVER TOP WRAP UPCYCLED DUNGAREES DRESS PLEAT-PERFECT SKIRT FEBRUARY 2023 ... ALL MADE TO LAST ISSUE 172 YOCULRAFIMREE US$22.99CAN$25.99 PATTERN AUS$24.99 UK£9.99 *UK sizes only. Pattern sizes may vary *UK sizes only. Pattern sizes may vary 72 0 74470 94541 3 Create MAKE TONIGHT PLUS! in sizes fHJouorlwlieesttsoUwszeoitwrh BOHO BANNER 8-24 PATCHWORK QUILT TEDDY BEAR TOY PUNCH NEEDLE CUSHION In Every Issue 39 Online boxset 50 Hot air balloon quilt Chosen Little ones will adore this throw 03 Welcome Download your FREE bag making bundle 53 Sewing dolly Stitch a crafty companion Come and say hello! 46 Stuart Hillard 64 Dear Sew… 06 Who, what, wear Stuart reveals the top Our experts talk embroidery colours of 2023 and doll house décor What’s trending in the sewing world 59 The bear necessities 66 Sleeping kitty Sew a furry feline friend 72 Sew social Explore the art of making 68 Heart cushion You’ve been sharing your makes teddy bears today Stitch this adorable children’s accessory 74 Sew book club Home & Gifts GIFTDRESSMAKING ● HOME DECOR ● TOYS ● QUILTS The latest must-reads Dressmaking 30%FOR YOU! 76 Digital digest 40 Embossed cushion Check out what we Stitch a vibrant pillow 11 Simplicity sewing school PDAISTCTOEURNNT have to offer online Update your wardrobe 86 Sewing basics 42 Patchwork with this month’s lucky dip NOV 2022 The jargon explained! draught excluder ISSUE 169 Keep your home cosy 20 Lois dress Tea Break Treat yourself to a Christmas Your 3-in-1 56 44 Happily ever after hoop dreamy frock Outfit! A romantic gift for two 11CCOLASSYS-IUCPS TSHVTEI+RNUMATLIAUGTGCIHMEHT-A-SMLTTEOEYGRBLTEEARISFNORICSUOISVDCEEEKRS!SST SUBSCRIBE TO SEWMBJaAEkLCTeK-EmEDTe 35 Time to sew bro 48 Boho wall banner Decorative 50+ 3 ISSUES FOR stmitacdhe esismple ONLY £14.99DRPSIHARVONOINTTBGOAINBBHOTOOOOWMYTLHEINFPOGRAROPDPICVNSHESRNITSCCTQMAAURLAIEDSCNKHWDOQARLUREDIALETTRH The men who love to make Create a unique wall hanging 29/09/2022 15:35 001 OFCover Nov 169B PD.indd 1 4 sewmag.co.uk

92 PATTERNS 2INSIDE! GET SET FOR SPRING WITH OUR LUCKY DIP OF PATTERN PACKS 40 PACKED PAGES OF PATTERNS & PROJECTS 30 Maya dress 26 34 Introduce this dotty design to your 2023 wardrobe 32 Indie news Don’t miss these independent brand picks 34 Samara top Stitch a batwing wonder in three simple steps 38 Fashion forecast Enjoy a blast from the past with these 80s style picks 39 Debbie Shore Our columnist on English smocking Debbie Shore unveils the secret to smocking on page 19 24 Mia coat 30 20 Stitch a snuggly jacket 26 Sophie dungarees Sew this stylish garment 29 Juliet Uzor Juliet chats crafting on a budget for you... 52 Reader offer Treat yourself to Embroidery Stitches by Lucinda Ganderton 63 Giveaways Enter to win over £1,000 of prizes! Meet Fluffmonger founder Jenny Maj on page 90 5 sewmag.co.uk

ADVERTORIAL Brighter Days Ahead A recent Pinterest survey revealed there has been a 30% increase in searches for ‘colourful interiors’, with more people than ever looking to cheer up their living spaces for a brighter and happier 2023. If you would like to join the manifesting movement, there is no better place to begin than with these vibrant embroidery hoops from Paraffle. In your craft kit you will find a wooden display hoop holding an ethically sourced, 100% cotton, backing piece. You will also be treated to all the tools and instructions needed to complete your chosen design. Try the Unicorn Embroidery Kit for a touch of whimsy or lift the spirits of a loved one with the You Are My Sunshine Hoop, £22.99 each from paraffle.com Add to Basket who In exciting news for crafters what everywhere, Graphtec now stock the Brother ScanNCut. One of WEAR our favourite models on offer has to be the SDX1200, a The sewing world is a hub feature-rich and powerful, of excitement, keep up! desktop sized digital cutting, scanning and drawing tool that can be operated without the need of a computer. Boasting 17 fabulous fonts, plus 1,303 built-in designs that include 140 quilt and appliqué patterns, the SDX1200 would make a wonderful addition to your sewing space. For more info about this model and others in the range, visit graphtecgb.co.uk Love to Lounge Fabric Finds When it comes to finding Chrysalis Fabrics the perfect pattern, is offering huge reductions throughout comfort is key. After all, life January, so there is too short for too-tight has never been a waistbands and material better time for you to stock up your stash. that clings in all the wrong Discover a wide places. Luckily, Named range of top-quality Clothing has been been materials as you explore the current working hard on a solution Winter Collection. and recently released the Ranging from fine dress weights to fabulous Olo Set. A relaxed cosy knits and wool weaves, these yet elegant ensemble, stunning fabric options will certainly come in handy when this pattern features a you are preparing for your upcoming sewing projects. Visit chrysalisfabrics.co.uk and treat yourself today! long-sleeved tee and wide leg trousers. The former 6 sewmag.co.uk can be sewn with either a rolled-hem funnel neck or a deep V-neck with binding. Its sleeves can then be finished with either a rolled hem or simple turn-up. The latter sits high above your waist with an elasticated band and no side seams – perfect for lazy days snuggled up at home. From £15, namedclothing.com

New Collection If you buy one pattern… Alert! A reoccurring trend that has come to Introducing Lila Tueller’s spring mark the start of spring, cottagecore collection, Mon Cheri. This stunning provides us stitchers with a brilliant selection of prints features the excuse to break out our stash of ditsy designer’s signature artwork in an dresses and twirl-worthy skirts. Featuring uplifting colour palette of blossom a sweetheart neckline, attractive waist pink, sky blue, and sunshine yellow. darts, and lots of gorgeous gathers, the three frocks of Fall in love with soft florals, fresh Simplicity 9475 certainly fit the country aesthetic. Just imagine how wonderful these designs would look made up cherries, and pretty polka dots, in a ditsy print or classic gingham. Available to sew with and as you transform this range into without sleeves, these dresses boast back variations that garments and accessories, heirloom include a deep V-opening or a closed back with flattering toys, and makes for the home. darts. Stitch in UK sizes 8-26. £12, jaycotts.co.uk For stockist information, visit rileyblakedesigns.com Online Inspiration An in-depth exploration of Maisie crinkle maxi dress, £39, cottontraders.com embroidery, this virtual class will guide you through the process of creating a bespoke, hand embroidered bouquet over the course of six weeks. Hosted on Zoom from the 30th January onwards, it will teach you everything you need to know about traditional techniques such as silk shading, stumpwork embroidery and goldwork. You will also be given access to couture techniques commonly used in the fashion houses of Paris, New York, and London. A wonderful opportunity for you to step up your skill set or treat a fellow crafter to the educational experience of a lifetime, the Sculptural Embroidery Course from Hand & Lock costs £310 from handembroideryshop.com VIRTUAL LEARNING Lucy from Blossom & Friday joined The Crafts Channel to film a tutorial for this adorable elephant toy. Her video guide will take you through every step of the project, allowing you to work at a comfortable pace as she shares her favourite sewing machine stitches, must-have tools, and top tips for stuffing your toy. You will also discover how to add character to your make with felt cheeks and embroidered eyes. You can find this tutorial, and many more, at youtube.com/TheCraftsChannel Home Comforts 20% 20% OFF OFF Covering everything from simple cushions to upholstered chair Pearl Cardigan at FISTERRA DRESS at covers, this inspiring guide shows you how to transform your living TILLYANDTHEBUTTONS.COM ITCH-TO-STITCH.COM spaces with 50 stylish sewing projects. The makes range from a Use code: SEWMAGPEARL Use code: fisterra20 lampshade for the novice stitcher, through to lined curtains with an T&Cs: one use per customer, cannot be T&Cs: one use per customer, cannot be used array of different headings and used in conjunction with any other offer, while in conjunction with any other offer, while stocks blinds, as well as bed throws and table linen. Designer Vanessa stocks last, 4th January - 15th February last, 4th January - 28th February Arbuthnott provides plenty of guidance on selecting fabrics, plus tips for accurate measuring and cutting. CICO Books, £16.99, makeetc.com 7 sewmag.co.uk

10Patterns 2 20Looks Designs TAILORED TO SUIT YOUR SIZE, STYLE & POCKET 2 Consider your wardrobe needs officially met. Over the Lisa Comfort following pages, you'll be treated to a suits-all wrap dress by Lisa Comfort, alongside easy-to-style bottoms, a duo Dresses of patterns that will transform tired-looking basics into the kids' new favourite outfit, plus two of our reader favourites! 20 8 sewmag.co.uk

18 Your sew DRESSMAKING Exclusive 24 Designs 34 FREE TEMPLATE DOWNLOAD All the patterns you need All of our patterns are available to get started are available from sizes 8-24* and already to download at sewmag. include seam allowances. co.uk. Simply register or Remember to make a toile to ensure the best fit for you. log-in to get started! *excludes covermounted gifts 8-24* Sizing 26 30 20 YOUR SIZING CHART (CM) 22 24 113 118 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 94 99 118 123 Bust 78 83 88 93 98 103 108 46 47 Waist 59 64 69 74 79 84 89 Hip 85 88 93 98 103 108 113 Back neck 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 to waist 9 sewmag.co.uk

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DRESSMAKING Sewing School This month we’ve arranged a lucky dip pattern pick, which offers the widest selection of Simplicity and New Look designs to date! Before you get started, just remember to use your body measurements to find your pattern size, NOT the ready-to- wear size that you'd buy in high street shops. You can visit sewdirect.com to find out more about taking accurate measurements and getting the right fit for your shape. And if you would like to adapt the sizes of your pattern, this is a brilliant opportunity for you to give grading a go. Visit sewmag.co.uk and search ‘grading’ to find out more. Masterclass DRESSMAKING SSecwhoinogl WSTorRkinIgPwEitSh cmltTaeefhmahyasandroeolyeteebktgoanrrrosprerienktepitsuoaarcigr.sooiensricTulfpaef..aigtekhtrheLnIoyiwfpeseoeisednsiloutnataieosshcm’urtvcstanioehesttreempn.iteyttidpsrtnRohohcoitheepserteeerkuset,ieexeppar,pbuyra,pdeenetpioontcnigasvtnhaatudtetteitlsetoeosypwhttronnrhieymiipnonnfinrilltfosneilntghpefalhnsaatpelwtpliieaetooytstrihthcieoenepsioot,needcrcagonpo.ceemwtetfhssohdhsee.eisle CaSabshiremeusghngpinokrlienwycaeisnttrtysofro9inpr6e1s4, , Ahemtrriytciskphssafaornersd edxSPyopionEemIBur’tEiXrpeRflsnoCiicPcrzAigeeEtEyeiaNtnSpRntrpdooDWTadss@thtutLyAesacIlerereYTnew.MsIdymHfaMrolyaBlauofygrHAtuAoifanuidnngTErSeid,sfchLaCShi@dveePAeHolsdpuitmipFonDrirYgptgoRelOijyiOvecboOecirRuttaUsysMntemoodAwRncssiecnSMaInPwagnIsldwlAtgMYsaahiugtTrakhSrmPsasTCmeLdtrneiEIAtpbcsCaeyRtRsdthIeaaNTasRgttgorYsyifun, igt AMY SAYS... Pplaatctienrng ypoieucres “Tfmdaobeasgrcatirhoceloipesnnshyegtio,foeptuiatlnrhacghceeussiintndrdsiepeasreet”ta9hm0e MSattrcipheinsg IstfaffotwrytnabrsoohoiiwbdiaalpsenntefepuurcahwevipnsretytilsttsnkbcetsaeahlothvohibmtueotrYlod,,dfrrcrhedesblrumeoecopeyiaeowaleiineciaenetioepsmpndshvttuwaunluhslhrYxe,ittlsekhionitdileegtinninonanaecdiairyaacpeBiioraoeericcsissstgedindmnhkedecevoketsmdpiudthuypuuaa.eanh,adioecgeeiueuoonpdWssnrmtpnetcabtctbeoeif.hrfee.ontewanhnopgoofaaagearudFotrsdeseIuhpaedenwnythtfslrpnieitfeptutttbsciswhtlwtnmaemaiaofhhrheyttaea.eipohannnototfiiantirahruioehespseiItcyrcctluttdtrutstttfvlahaptoenutehirteeeoyshlhhcywprtnhnlcoyeyoeocaotregiolkapipoptocwadamhaledo,rionwnosmefiviophduunlnslauniasrpseeeuuldtatyeesibsleepoelieisyidhrtnartlrgaportocetstcoesaua,maivhatae.tieshsy’cteertinaieauehafottctshenzrtrioaIhdtirooecthesmsftaamdmrmmeanteafen,tttatumoeittdaemyltsoebbhtbspedrtlrhotstefcsstfefeyntoti,oponehpuorsasamsttepprn.ahhnbyouoyrhestddtoiteorrteebttettpaoitheriotbftfaoeoipiiicixayyoarii,ocrnccovenuleoprultimnahpoeoominreyceehelesnrtptryneeo,clwuumonsspsyoetesobsotwwrthu.eefi.reeodfnebeaiiIwlelalfydhlyltnr,ibootlle.nwlymbmdeToasboanyhwectylyetoceottFiashotcoisodosadesuirhenuihrunumaetnveyd’aserrritl’rlev,notaimeytdthtspulbeorgerwymatlhmeynreufesr,aoetuihditgtattmdmpacfmphpmhheen.tdekotawceniareYahoaessimaarhantokbkteanittraathsgtiucmemworonbhltuuidithdsnafsgioeietnrestliphhgetlladrcsndyalthfnobeoociherdrideicesianilewuor.oucnrooeomtgmlTsikranntywedi,mstevhiloradgwtasemnaeasiotpugdestrhlotmslcmetosrroaathtlwerhahheoesoisrakeneetrteivesitrinhnlmtsnilvmelsbhuegaotge,i.glopdtt.tI,eIefhdpefy!sre.eotoIifthrmuseohtodnfhtomfrPofh.serloasyaoowaiaNitemmlzttbdocsswhertsaweonrmouilreemaetsxienootowcrivrtuetthrohtsnheeca,savusnrindsoesdhletwtoelpneaclhttrdtelcleadahhirilahihtelennethvrcoleoeeweentneesenlerrnrsiembogsa.ata,oabugmrttloMsrttmlweeehhalnh.mhsdyeatajIeede.oeynowbtvmrrenfphbdkrskseeaeritoetoietatmatsehaoaeryiddtbrnittneancpepmaphiootpcdheasonsetefdoe,hilsriocnatey.nifuehnefesgetaretyvcetnoehtduer Relax in style Cahpoatotseirnng with Burda 6315 MiTyncythyaoatlroaroetounuocsuurdmdshcstciusioacoenatcenrsgrBnesetimr.snatpteWctotlotarsohoipykohpntfoueeehatulntasabiaesrkrriwedssiedpc,reoiaeysrbswro.oscufkjuisuitienpn,nrciglsfgipttnkyreiwfeiecoocrpktiuriht,sehdnooprtifitrsrhpqoewtpepurifraieoiepenirvr.etg,eoosn,f Bimwsuaoardvtgcearhne6afs3ott4rri2ped fabrics Hneereedatroemsoamtcehoyfotuhresktreipyepsl:aces you pcvsflbreeoaaktoaexrhnrcisnrthDtaedttisrcahoetmegoaavaxnmarrleetta’llptecrynefidaannr,baltioyusrgefccstsfssthtoetasohitrtarfngfrifhweprleygrlaaaneetaoisictttnddiduhlenhtygrrfhet.e.geaaosTiBslrsbntewhasprirdnwaie.ilihpnacgsJspieeylteuolocrnshosmwfunf.wtytantTeitaocbteirfhnshkutyaeeteoehbotcaprhbgarysurrdiierseoecatawrtpsulosmiieninarpaloslargfprfsrceaeotiardcgnbrehigravaiicneteg TLhoeoajkenr6ds2ee1ay6styeisemaoaqfkuNeiecwk your stripes. l Side seams Abraseatres-crluasvknhletbgdi,rolgetad,eyyficopowerluaielrclnxufbsaatebwmoirnuiiplclttloehtoof,enthehmaanasfivtdoaeedlldfltlreewyodooonuretfdsotaolglnidgedsh..AtTlyshoaeff sewm1a3g.co.uk l Sleeve side seams LyoayuirnfgaboruitcllycSsocAsoAdmktwureiscnrefcdeihtrxlaartripassIrshaaecoltyfotaioliiyoesgsreteuldrgyssrceseeailinyhmuarsennoiezrsdgmvddatenosraustttehtsrraioeshndmtahvnwaedmthoktraettedegsvcecanseiircarrwaalsecle.hbllyuaatinsetkrlersAsbhoehnsnbthcdnsten,tsevdisoedylarwcerateouraiiywsfeerrpchapoynronaeeescrdaeteonagsraitllkttsbairdnsshurhlokanfihewetdtartiederieafnytisetrfsscsviiytsiltptgsslnwepyidikalehitngldpmudaoeaheelrtteigynrellmehmoerpsealeme.asdssivepsmrsegusBsretekwoaesgtsi.nrsuscadsi.neatatTeariiusckelArwsgtriwrlttigth,dreaphnbahswivwhhdatpeeeat.eeeheatiraesratsltdtvnlerahizamesttsedanehesttrssdeoy–fit. sewm1a2g.co.uk 5 PATTERN PICKS on page 16 11 sewmag.co.uk

Sewing Working with School STRIPES EXPERTLY MATCH YOUR PATTERN PIECES WITH HELP FROM SIMPLICITY BRAND AMBASSADOR AMY SCARR Simplicity produces all your favourite brands and has decades of experience in pattern drafting, helping you to sew garments that suit your size and style. If you decide to give sewing with stripes a try, don’t forget to share your finished projects with us over on Instagram by tagging @sewhq and @simplicitymccallsuk Relax in style Choosing with Burda 6315 a pattern Matching stripes is a fun technique to Burda 6342 introduce to your sewing repertoire. is a great The most popular project for dipping match for your toe into this discipline is the woven striped classic Breton tee, but if you prefer, materials you can make a dress, skirt, or pair of trousers. When working with stripes, Don’t be afraid to play with the you can also take your pick of woven placements of your stripes. Try cutting and stretch fabrics. a crossgrain striped fabric on the bias or vertically, using the lengthwise grain for Here are some of the key places a skirt or part of a dress. Just be prepared that you need to match your stripes: for the fact that this will make your fabric behave differently. Bias cut fabrics are l Side seams extremely stretchy and prone to dropping, and a lengthwise grain often has less give l Sleeve side seams than a crossgrain. These factors will create an extra challenge when you are matching l Across the centre back your stripes. l Across the body and sleeves when Laying out your arms are by your sides your fabric If you make a dress or skirt, A t-shirt, for example, has a front and consider the shape of the design. back bodice cut out on a folded edge. As Straight skirts, rectangular gathered a result, layplans will often tell you to skirts and classic shift dresses will arrange your fabric to have two folds. The create a very neat stripe match at the selvedge will be in the middle or slightly off side seams. A waist seam on these designs will be relatively straight and may use darts for fitting. Bust darts will create an angle in the stripes extending under the arms. Trapeze style dresses or any design with a flared or circle skirt will make horizontal stripes appear curved as they travel towards the side seams – a slight chevron will appear at the point at which they meet. A waist seam on these designs will be very curved and unlikely to use darts to fit. 12 sewmag.co.uk

DRESSMAKING centre. The important thing is to Chunky stripes, make sure the stripes on the top as shown on layer are placed exactly on top of Simplicity 9614, the stripes on the bottom layer. are great for The trick is to insert a pin along beginners the edge of one stripe, then lift the fabric and check underneath, making sure the pin is positioned along the same edge of the same stripe. If it’s not, you will need to reposition it. Repeat this process on a few stripes, every few inches or so. Leave the pins in place while you lay out your pattern pieces. Placing your AMY SAYS... pattern pieces “To stop your If you are taking the time to match fabric shifting under the stripes, a key area to pay attention machine, place pins at 90 to is the side seams of your bodice degrees to the side seam and sleeves. When you pin the front bodice pattern piece to the along each stripe” fabric, line up the underarm point with the top or bottom of a stripe, matching upwards from the on. Next, draw a then replicate this position for your bottom of the bodice. This will horizontal line between back bodice. Finally, place the mean that part of the seam that the two underarm points sleeve with both underarm points doesn’t match will be almost of your sleeve, then measure on the same stripe as the bodices. entirely hidden under your arm. down the centre of the sleeve This does make it trickier to from this line. Mark a point You can see this layout below achieve a match across the that matches the distance with all pieces placed at the top of sleeve when it is lying against the measured on the bodice. a red stripe. If you can’t fit body, but nothing is impossible! Position the sleeve on the everything on the width of your If you’re making a short sleeve, fabric so the marked point fabric, you also have the option of I would recommend matching sits on the same stripe as the placing the pattern pieces your stripes at the underarm. If lower dart leg. Instead of your underneath each other, but you you are making a long sleeve, you sleeve partially matching will need to find the same stripe can try this alternative method. across the body at the position on the repeated stripes. If Firstly, measure down the side armhole or underarm, you have an irregular stripe repeat, seam of the bodice, working from there will now be a perfect such as multicoloured stripes or the underarm point to the upper match across the body and stripes of different sizes, you need dart leg. You should also note the down the majority of the to examine the placement closely stripe that the lower dart leg sits sleeve length. to ensure you will get an exact match down the seams. Bust darts are commonly found on patterns that have been designed with woven fabrics in mind, but occasionally they will be paired with a knit. If you are working with a bust dart, you will need to pay close attention to how this affects your side seam matches. If you match for the underarm point, the seam will only line up until the start of the dart. You can avoid this problem by The jersey tee of New Look 6216 is a quick and easy make 13 sewmag.co.uk

Preparing Use the seam to sew lines of Simplicity 9140 to play with To stop your fabric shifting under the direction of the machine, place pins at 90 your stripes degrees to the side seam along Walking each stripe. If the stripes are foot 101 especially wide, you will need to pin both the upper and lower The walking foot is also known as the ‘even feed’ edges together. This may require foot because it feeds material evenly through quite a few pins, but the result your sewing machine. It can be used for difficult will be a garment with flawlessly layers of fabric as it grips onto the top layer and matched stripes. As you are helps it to move under the needle at the same pinning your fabric, remember you pace as the bottom layer. This makes it great for are matching the seamline and quilting, a process that involves sewing a top and not the raw edge. Your pins should bottom layer with wadding in between. It is also enter the fabric at start of the a handy accessory for dressmakers – perfect seam allowance (the line where for bulky fabric, slippery layers, and stretchy you will be stitching). They should be removed at the last minute, materials. A walking foot will stop just before they reach the needle your project from moving as you of your machine. work, helping you to avoid wobbly, uneven seams. Throughout this process, you will need to work slowly and To attach a walking foot to your carefully. This is especially machine, simply screw it in place. important when you come to sew The lever on the side should be the armhole and sleeve cap. The positioned over the needle bar first step is to mark the stitching when fitted. This will control the line on your sleeve cap. If you have movement of the toes on the chosen an evenly spaced stripe, foot as it travels over your material. you should be able to manipulate The lower side of the toes have the fabric to match the first few ridges that will grasp the fabric and move over it without resistance. stripes of the front armhole, starting at Universal walking feet will fit the underarm point. most sewing machines, but a lot of When you reach a manufacturers sell specific feet to quarter of the way fit their own models. A quick online round, this will search will bring up the best option become impossible. for you. Alternatively, your machine might already have a built-in, even- You might find feed mechanism. If this is the case it helpful to invest you won’t need a separate walking in a walking foot, as foot. Instead, you can just pull the this will ensure in-built attachment into position slippery, stretchy, and clip it onto the back of the and other tricky fabrics are fed evenly regular presser foot. through your sewing machine. Once you have your machine set Try matching stripes across a zip up, you will need to check its with Simplicity 9136 pressure adjustment to find out how much pressure is needed to hold your fabric in place. When working with a new or unfamiliar material, it can be advisable to stitch a test swatch first. 14 sewmag.co.uk

www.online-fabrics.co.uk FOR 10% OFF USE CODE SEW10 388-394 Foleshill Road, Coventry, West Midlands CV6 5AN Tel: 02476 687776 | Email: [email protected] stitching, fabrics, tuition 01566 772 654 www.cowslipworkshops.co.uk presents Fittingly Sew 2 Measure up Build garments from templates or build your own pieces Take a Trfyaborguicatsrmyooenunrytsoouwrn Print full-sized graphic Patterns from your image ... printer ... using reflections & effects, create exciting and unique fabric patterns For more information please visit: softbyte.co.uk 15 sewmag.co.uk

5 Sewing School PATTERNS TO CHECK OUT Discover new pattern brand, Know Me by Mimi G. Designed by makers, for makers, these modern patterns feature inclusive sizing and video tutorials from sewing community stars 2007 Designed by Maria of Keechii B Style, this comfortable yet polished knit dress features an exposed front zip and can be sewn to two lengths. There is a contrast rib knit at the collar, sleeve bands, and midriff. Available in sizes 8-26. 16 sewmag.co.uk

DRESSMAKING 2006 2001 Designed by Nefertiti, Designed by Nikki of Beaute' otherwise known as The J'adore, this oversized lined coat has a belt, sleeve bands, Corny Rainbow, this side seam pockets, and a tuxedo-style jacket wide lapel notched collar. The dress boasts princess high waisted, ankle length seams, a gathered trousers have a waistband, skirt, and long sleeve or sleeveless front and back darts, invisible variations. The dress has double side zip and even a side seam breasted buttons and includes an slit at the ankle. Available in ingenious hidden button closure! Available in sizes 8-26. sizes 10-38. All of the patterns shown cost £12 each from sewdirect.com/ know-me 2008 2003 Designed by Ella, aka the Designed by Alissah Handmade Millennial, these Threads, this modern take wide-leg jumpsuits feature on a cardigan set features a designer details such as a ruffle flounce neckline and twist front, deep V-neck, is available to sew to a side seam pockets, and an cropped or long length. This pattern also includes a long invisible zip at the back. Options include long or or short skirt with an short flutter sleeves and a elasticated waistband and full or cropped leg length. front slit detail. Available in This pattern is the perfect match for woven fabrics sizes S-XXL. with plenty of drape. 17 Available in sizes 8-26. sewmag.co.uk

Free Simplicity Pattern! We’re offering Sew Magazine Worth readers a FREE copy of £12 Simplicity 9181. This cropped trousers and skirt pattern features stitched down pleats and decorative top stitching. Available in sizes 6-24, you’re saving £12 with this amazing offer. How to get your pattern: •1. Scan the QR code below and sign up to our newsletter on the offer page. We’ll send you an exclusive voucher code. •2. Add Simplicity 9181 to your basket on sewdirect.com •3. Use the voucher code during checkout and your basket total will update to give you S9181 for FREE! Terms and Conditions: Offer available while stocks last. No alternative patterns provided. You will only be able to claim one free pattern with this offer. Checkout with your voucher before February 2nd 2023 23:59. You’ll need to pay P&P to complete the offer unless your basket qualifies for free shipping. sewdirect.com

Master the art of BAG MAKING YOU’LL HAVE BAGS OF FUN ON OUR VIRTUAL COURSE THAT’S PACKED WITH BONUS FREEBIES GET STARTED IN EASY STEPS Search On your desktop computer, visit youtube.com/TheCraftsChannel, click the ‘Playlists’ tab along the top, then select ‘Art of Bag Making Download Bundle’ to start your course Download Bag clasps on backpacks and practical pouches, handles on clutches and warm woolen linings – these are a few of To download your resource pack, our favourite things, and making them just got a whole lot visit sewmag.co.uk, press ‘Sewing easier. Guiding you through how to make simple-to-sew, simple- to-wear accessories, The Crafts Channel demonstrator Corinne patterns’ and select ‘Art of Bag Bradd shares beginner-level projects, quick hacks to save you time Making Download Bundle’ and plenty of embellishing ideas to help you make the perfect carry -all for you. Once you’ve finished watching, simply download the Create Art of Bag Making resource bundle, which includes five bonus projects, essential stitching know-how, plus all the templates Gather your essential craft you need to get started. supplies including your sewing machine, fabric, needles and thread, then you’re ready to go! 19 sewmag.co.uk

INTERMEDIATE The dream blend of classic meets comfort, stitch the ESSENTIALS Lois Dress Fabric for version one, up to 3.9m Designed by Lisa Comfort, this 70s-inspired wrap pattern features (115cm); up to 3.5m (140cm) novel shaping, with a clever combination of darts and pleats, cleverly Fabric for version two, up to 3.4m positioned to reduce bulk around the bust and waist. The faux-wrap, (115cm); up to 3.1m (140cm) V-shaped neckline is completed with a cute collar and collar stand. Lois’s Elastic, 6mm x 1m long sleeves finish with cuffs, but can easily be cut shorter to suit your Lightweight interfacing, 60cm desired length. The dress comes with two hem lengths. Version 1 hits below the knee, and features short slits in the side seam for a little bit of SUGGESTED FABRICS extra movement and swish, while version 2 sits just above the knee. Light to medium weight woven 1 Download the pattern at to backstitch. Press the seam half their width and press the seam fabrics, such as viscose and sewmag.co.uk, then print out crepe and follow the cutting guide. allowances towards the side seam. allowances towards the collar stand. This Staystitch the front edge of both SIZES front bodice pieces. Mark and 3 Repeat step 2 for the next pleat, will now be the top collar. Repeat from pin the bust darts in both front pressing the seam allowance the start of step 4 for the other collar 8-20 bodice pieces. Note that these are stand and uninterfaced collar pieces. This intentionally different sizes. The towards the side seam. CUTTING GUIDE dart on the left side provides all Machine tack the seam allowance of will now be the under collar. the shaping for that side, whereas Right-hand front bodice (A): there is additional shaping within the pleats in place at the waist edge, 5 On the top collar, staystitch from cut one the pleats for the right-hand side. within the 1.5cm seam allowance. 3cm beyond the shoulder notch to Left-hand front bodice (B): cut Pin and stitch in place. Press the With right sides together, align the the same point on the other side. one darts down towards the waist. Right-hand front facing (C): shoulder seam edges of the front and Use a 1cm seam allowance for this. cut one from fabric, and one 2 With right sides up, lay the from interfacing right-hand side bodice out back bodice pieces. Note that there is Snip further into the shoulder notches, Left-hand front facing (D): flat. Starting at the circle cut one from fabric, and closest to the waist edge, form a a little extra ease on the back up to the stay stitching line but be sure one from interfacing pleat by aligning this with the circle Back (E): cut one on the fold next to it and pin in place. Continue shoulder. Pin and stitch in place. not to cut through the stitching. With Sleeve (F): cut one pair pinning in place all the way down to Collar (G): cut one pair from the waist. Make sure the seam lines Overlock or zig zag the seam wrong sides together, press the seam fabric, and one from interfacing match. Pin and stitch in place, Collar stand (H): cut one starting at the waist edge and allowances together and press allowance between the notches up pair from fabric, and one pair stopping at the circle, making sure from interfacing towards the back. Interface both towards the collar stand along the Cuff (I): cut one pair from fabric, and one pair from interfacing collar stand pieces and one of the stitch line. With right sides together, pin Front skirt (J): cut one on the fold Back skirt (K): cut one on the fold collar pieces. With right sides the top collar to the under collar. Using 1.5cm seam allowance used together, align the curved edge of a 1cm seam allowance, stitch along one throughout, unless otherwise stated. one of the collar stand pieces with of the short edges, pivot and sew along ELASTIC LENGTH the concave curve of the interfaced the long outer edge. Size 8 - 35cm Size 10 - 37.5cm collar, matching the circles. 6 Pivot once more at the next short Size 12 - 40cm edge. Turn the collar through to Size 14 - 42.5cm 4 Pin and stitch in place with the right side. Roll the seam Size 16 - 45cm a 1cm seam allowance. Trim towards the under collar and press flat. Size 18 - 47.5cm the seam allowances down to Size 20 - 50cm To see other Lois dresses, search the hashtag #soiloisdress on Instagram 20 sewmag.co.uk

FREE DRESSMAKING TEMPLATE Pattern DOWNLOAD Worth £11.50! sewmag.co.uk /templates This pattern is only available to download until 16th February in sizes 8-20 With right sides together, pin the under collar to the neckline of the bodice, matching the notches. Leave the top collar free and stitch the under collar to the neckline with a 1cm seam allowance, making sure not to catch the top collar. Don’t worry if you can’t quite reach the ends of the collar due to the presser foot, these will be sandwiched in by the facing at a later stage. 7 To allow the seam allowances to flip up and be concealed in the collar stand, snip into the seam allowances of the back bodice and under collar, in line with the shoulder seam. Be careful not to snip the outside of the bodice. Trim down the seam allowances. Press the seam allowances up towards the collar stand. Align the pressed edge of the upper collar stand with the back neck seam you just pressed up. Pin in place so that the fold just covers the seam line. 8 Topstitch in place, 2/3mm from the seam. Make sure the raw neckline edges of the under collar and upper collar align along the neckline seam, and machine tack them together. The facing will later conceal these raw edges. Interface the front facing pieces. Overlock or zig zag the outer edge of the front facing pieces, as well as the short shoulder edge. With right sides together, align the corresponding front facing pieces with the neckline of the front bodice. 9 Match the notches and pin in place, making sure the shoulder edges of the facings match the edge of the shoulder seam allowance on the bodice. Stitch the facing pieces in place using a 1cm seam allowance. Understitch the seam allowances to the facing, starting at the waist edge and finishing about 5cm from the collar, so that your stitching won’t be visible when worn. Press the facing to the inside of the bodice, slightly rolling the seam towards the facing. Lay the bodice out flat. As you are looking at it, lay the left-hand side over the right (the pleated front piece should be uppermost). 10 Align the centre-front notches of the front bodice pieces at the waist and pin in place along the waist. Machine tack the two bodice pieces together 1cm from the waist edge. With right sides together, align the waist 21 sewmag.co.uk

INTERMEDIATE edge of the front skirt with the hem. Make sure to backstitch. through to the other side – the waist edge of the front bodice. Pin Press the seam allowances open. other set of short ends of the Layplan (all sizes) and stitch in place. Overlock or zig seam allowance will now be right zag the seam allowances together 14 For version 1, keeping in sides together. Repeat step 18 SELVEDGES FOLD and press down towards the skirt. line with the 1.5cm from the start. Overlock the side seams and hem seam allowance, edges of the front dress. With right continue to press the seam 1 9 You may need to fold sides together, align the waist edge allowance open until you reach part of the cuff out of of the back skirt with the waist the hem. For version 2, press the the way to be able to get edge of the back bodice. Pin and entire seam open. Fold back the to this part. You should now have a stitch in place. unstitched side seam allowances, cuff with a split in it. Overlock or and with wrong sides together, zig zag just one of the layers of 1 1 Overlock or zig zag the press up the hem edge seam allowance – fold the other seam allowances together on both the front and back of the one out of the way as you do this. and press up towards the skirt by 1.5cm. Pin in place. With right sides together, align the bodice. Cut the elastic for the back raw edge of the non-overlocked waist to length using the ‘elastic 1 5 For version 2, press up cuff layer with the hem of the length’ chart (left). Pin the elastic to the hem edge by 1.5cm sleeve. Pin and stitch in place, the back waist seam allowance, and pin in place, and making sure not to catch the other making sure it’s against the seam skip to step 16. Fold the side seam section of the cuff. allowance of the bodice. Align the allowances back over the hem elastic with both sides of the waist allowance and pin. To finish the 2 0 Press the seam and pin in place at both ends. Make hem, first transfer the pins to the allowances up sure it sits just next to the seam right side of the dress. We suggest towards the cuff and line within the seam allowance. marking the pivot point around fold the cuff so that the overlocked the hem in with chalk to make edge sits on the inside of the 1 2 Using a zig zag stitch, sure your topstitching is accurate. sleeve. Pin the overlocked edge in sew the elastic in place Draw in chalk lines at a 1cm seam place. Turn the sleeve through to along the seam allowance to guide your the right side and transfer the pins, allowance. Gently stretch the topstitching. one by one to the right side of the elastic to fit the waist edge as you cuff. Edgestitch 2-3mm from the sew. Optionally, you may wish to 1 6 Topstitch around the seam on the cuff side. topstitch the elastic in place. hem with a 1cm seam Making sure the seam allowance is allowance. Sew two 2 1 This will anchor the cuff still pressed up towards the bodice, rows of gathering stitches in place and encase all pin the seam allowance in place. between the notches on the raw edges. With the Using a 3mm stitch length, from sleeve head, at 1cm and 1.4cm sleeve right sides out and the dress the right side, topstitch the elastic from the raw edge. Pull the inside out, insert the sleeve into in place 1-1.2cm from the waist threads to slightly gather the the armhole. Match the underarm seam. You will need to gently sleeve head. With right sides seams with the dress side seams, stretch the elastic as you do this, together, bring the notches on the and match the notches, adjusting so that the fabric lays flat. We sleeve hem together to form a the gathers as necessary. Pin and suggest stretching the elastic in pleat. The fold should face stitch in place. Overlock or zig zag short sections, as it can be quite towards the back of the sleeve. the seam allowances together. tricky to stretch all of the elastic Pin and, keeping within the seam without pulling it from under the allowance, stitch in place Core machine foot. horizontally. Repeat for the Skill second sleeve. With right sides 1 3 Overlock the side seam together, align the underarm UNDER- and hem edges of the seam edges of the sleeves and STITCHING back dress. With right pin. Sew in place. Overlock or zig sides together, pin the front dress zag the seam allowances together Understitching helps a and the back dress at the side and press towards the back. facing or lining to stay seams, aligning the notches and waist seam. Sew in place. For 1 7 With right sides inside the garment, version 1, stop at the hem notch together, fold the cuff in preventing it from rolling indicated on the pattern and for half, matching the version 2, stitch all the way to the notches. Starting at the folded out and being visible. edge and finishing at the notches, After joining the facing to pin and stitch in place, making the outer garment, simply sure to backstitch. Snip further press the seam allowance into the notch, up to the stitch towards the facing, then line, but not through your sewing. Trim the sewn seam allowances stitch 2mm from the down to half their width. Turn the seam on the facing side, cuff through to the right side and anchoring the facing to press flat, teasing out the corners. the seam allowance. 1 8 Fold the cuff so that the pressed edges are together. You will have two short ends of seam allowance that are now right sides together. Pin and stitch the short seam allowance in place. Trim the seam allowances down and press this short section open. Turn the cuff 22 sewmag.co.uk

DRESSMAKING LISA SAYS... “When laying out your pieces, ensure you correctly position the grainline on the pattern, parallel to the selvedge. To do this, measure from both ends of the grainline to the selvedge; these measurements need to be the same” Available from as little as £6.50, you can discover more great dressmaking patterns over at sewoverit.com 23 sewmag.co.uk

INTBEERGMINENDEIARTE A year-round wardrobe hero, keep kiddies cosy in the GET STARTED Mia Coat Recycled garment: soft coat or cardigan, or another If your cherished winter jacket doesn’t look like it’ll see you through garment in thicker fabric another season of icy temperatures – or maybe you simply fancy Fabric: faux fur; cotton lining an upgrade, then it could be time to give it a new life as a miniature Thin ribbon cover-up for your child this spring. Adorned with a snuggly faux fur Buttons, two collar, pretty ribbon bows and a button fastened front, this pattern by Linnea Larsson is a transformation that deserves top place on SIZES your to-make list this month. 0-2 years 1 Download and print the 2 Sew in the darts on edge and neckline only. Sew CUTTING GUIDE pattern from sewmag. the sleeves. To do this, the left facing to the left coat co.uk, then follow the bring the open edges front in the same way. Press Front: cut two cutting guide. You’ll need to of each sleeve dart right the facings, but don’t turn Back: cut one trace the patterns onto paper sides together and pin. Sew them through. With the coat Sleeve: cut two (one and cut out, adding a 1cm seam along the dart only, with a right side out and the facings mirror image) allowance to each piece; note regular seam. To finish the still on the outside of the coat, Facing: cut two (one that the coat back is cut from sleeves, fold over the short, fold up the bottom of the coat mirror image) folded pattern paper. Carefully straight ends by 2cm, with twice by 1cm to make a double Collar: cut one from faux fur pin the pattern pieces to the wrong sides together, and hem, folding up the facings at and one from cotton fabric garment. Finish the seams with sew to hem. the same time. zig zag stitch or overlock, 1cm seam allowance if necessary. 3 Pin a sleeve to each 6 Sew along the fold then used throughout, unless coat front armhole right turn through, turning otherwise stated. sides together, pinning through the facings at only halfway round the sleeve the same time. With right sides FREE heads. Pin the other halves of facing, sew the outer collar the sleeve heads to the coat and collar lining right sides TEMPLATE back, right sides together. together, leaving the neckline DOWNLOAD Sew the sleeves in place edge open. Clip the seam around the armholes – these allowance, then turn through. sewmag.co.uk make raglan seams. Sew the Press gently on the lining side /templates underarms of the sleeves and of the collar. the coat sides, right sides together, starting at the ends 7 Place the collar on the of the sleeves. Clip the curves coat, with the collar to add ease. outer against the wrong side of the coat’s neckline. 4 Pin the right facing to Start pinning from the centre the centre-front edge of back. Temporarily turn the the right coat front, collar the right way out to right sides together. Transfer check the collar is in the right the two loop markings from place before sewing it down. the patterns with the pencil, Sew the collar on, starting at then insert a loop of ribbon the centre back and working over each marking, with the towards the front. loops in between the facing and coat front, raw edges 8 Trim the seam allowance together and with the loops if necessary, and clip it facing towards the garment. so that the collar sits flat. You will need to measure the Press the collar to the right size of your buttons before side of the coat. Bring the front cutting the loops of ribbon, to edges of the coat together until ensure the ribbon loops fit they’re flush, fold the loops over the buttons. over the right coat front and mark where the buttons 5 Sew the right facing to should sit, through the centres the coat front, stitching of the loops. Sew the buttons along the centre-front on by hand. 24 sewmag.co.uk

DRESSMAKING Core Skill CLIPPING CURVES When clipping fabric, make snips in the seam allowance up to, but not through, the stitching. This allows the fabric to open around curves and lay flat. Start by trimming the corners to get a point, then cut towards the neckline centre. If there’s any pulling at the centre point, use small scissors to clip one thread at a time – this will ensure it stays completely flat. Get the Book Discover 30 garment patterns, designed to transform old to new, in Restyle & Restitch for Little Ones by Linnea Larsson. £12.99, searchpress.com 25 sewmag.co.uk

INTERMEDIATE Torn jeans? No problem! Transform them into a pair of GET STARTED Sophie Recycled garments: one pair Dungarees of children’s jeans; one pair of adults’ jeans, one cotton shirt Buckles, two Jean buttons, two SIZES 0-2 years CUTTING GUIDE Front: cut one from each fabric Back: cut one from each fabric Dungarees strap: cut two from each fabric 1cm seam allowance used throughout, unless otherwise stated. If your denim trews are looking a bit sorry for themselves, it could be time to magic them into a brand-new outfit for the little one in your life. Using the bare bones of your true blues, you can make Linnea Larsson’s pair of dungarees, which also make use of the pockets and button fastenings. 1 Download and print the 5 Turn the top section of pattern from sewmag.co.uk, the cut-off children’s then follow the cutting guide. jeans inside out. With the Trace the pattern pieces onto bib’s denim side facing down, pattern paper, then cut them out, sew the front bib to the inside adding a 1cm seam allowance. Pin of the waistband at the front of all three pieces to a cotton shirt the jeans. Stitch the back bib to and cut them out, then pin the the inside of the waistband at pattern pieces to a pair of jeans the back of the jeans. Attach and cut them out; you will need the buttons to each top corner two straps in each fabric. of the front bib, following the instructions on the pack. 2 Cut a pocket from the pair Thread the straps into the of adults’ jeans and sew it buckles, then fold over and sew to the centre of the bib with the short ends of the straps to the topstitching on the right side secure the buckles. of the fabric. Cut the legs off the pair of children’s jeans about Core 5–10cm below the crotch. Take Skill one strap in each fabric and sew them right sides together, leaving CUTTING an opening in one long side. Turn DENIM right side out and press. Denim is a thick fabric, so 3 Topstitch around the edge; to make life easier when this will close up the turning cutting out the pattern gap in the process. Make pieces, you should use a the second strap in the same sharp pair of scissors or way. To make the bib, place the add a new blade to your cotton dungarees front over the rotary cutter. Depending denim dungarees front, right on how thick the denim is, sides together. Sew together, leaving the bottom edge you may want to cut open. Turn through and press. through just one layer at a time, and you might also 4 Place the two pieces for the back, right sides together. need to upgrade to Carefully position the straps stronger pins, too. as shown in the photos, with the denim fabrics right sides together. Stitch the back together leaving the bottom edge open. Turn through and press. Zig zag stitch the bottom edges of the front and back to finish them neatly. 26 sewmag.co.uk

DRESSMAKING FREE TEMPLATE DOWNLOAD sewmag.co.uk /templates Get the Book Transform pre-loved clothes into stylish garments for babies and toddlers with a little help from Restyle & Restitch for Little Ones by Linnea Larsson. £12.99, searchpress.com 27 sewmag.co.uk

28 sewmag.co.uk

TEA BREAK JULIET SHARES HER TOP TRICKS FOR CRAFTING ON A BUDGET Juliet Uzor “Sewing can be an expensive hobby, but it is still possible to save money while making your clothes and accessories” T he first few months of the year are Designers will usually offer a ‘safe’ material notorious for bringing all manner requirement, but their layouts don’t always have of financial worries, largely from the to be followed. Instead, think carefully about draining costs of Christmas presents folding your fabric in different ways to see if it can and parties. With so many budget cuts in my be saved for future projects. Cutting material economically means there will be leftover fabric. household, including music and video streaming These remnants can be very useful when it comes to linings, facings, internal pockets or patch subscriptions, it was no surprise that crafting pockets, collars, smaller accessories or even quilting. In fact, I have a scrap fabric quilted jacket was next in line. I’ve been on the look out for in my book The Great British Sewing Bee: The Modern Wardrobe. It was made using squares cut various ways to maintain my hobby on a tight out from old, thrifted denim trousers. I then saved the hardware, zippers and other useful budget, as sewing has a huge part to play in notions for future projects. keeping my soul together and it has always MAINTAIN YOUR MODEL been one of the pleasures I look forward to after wCliellasnaivnegcyoosutrlymreapcahiirnse I would recommend keeping your sewing and overlocking machines in tip-top shape to a long day at work. I’m sure you know that preserve them and keep them working. A simple, sewing can be an expensive hobby – especially deep clean and change of machine needles after each big stitching project could add years to your when high-end fabrics and gadgets are being device. However, it is important to refer to your machine’s manual when carrying out any cleaning used – but it is still possible to save money or oiling to ensure all of the parts are removed and replaced properly. Overlockers, pressing irons while making clothes and accessories. No matter de-stash or fabric swap pages set up by fellow and other gadgets should also be cleaned and what your income, these tips for crafting on a maintained regularly. stitchers. Here you will discover pre-loved items budget will help you find ways to save more, CHANGE YOUR MINDSET ready to be swapped or available for spend less and be mindful with your projects. After considering these money-saving tips, it sale at a much lower price. is important to evaluate your mindset. Setting boundaries around finances is one thing, but EXPLORE PRE-LOVED PIECES HUNT FOR FREEBIES we must acknowledge our talents and mental capacities. It is vital to be resourceful and make Before splurging on expensive gadgets and Sewing patterns can be another expense, decisions that bring us joy and save money tools such as an overlocker, specialist bobbin unless you create your own. Designing a pattern along the way! winder or a fancy bias tape machine, you should is not an easy task and, if you ask me, designers experiment with less expensive items to establish deserve the all the money they earn from their Juliet x what you like. Browse through charity shops or sales. So, whenever possible, I would online marketplaces to find a variety of crafting recommend purchasing patterns directly from materials that have been pre-loved creators. Some designers have free patterns by other sewists. You should also check out available on their websites, whilst others might require you to sign-up to their mailing list. Joining a mailing list will ensure you are the first to know about any discounts or call-outs for pattern testers. Another great idea is to look through the stitching books you have on your shelves at home and take some time to trace out the pattern pieces. Alternatively, you could check out your local library for titles with patterns and essential techniques that might encourage you to delve into the world of pattern making. The quilted jacket from my USE THE CUTTING LAYOUT Fans of The Great British Sewing Bee book is a great stash-buster will recognise Juliet as the 2019 series When working within a budget, every inch of champion. When she’s not busy fabric matters and it is essential that you cut out working as a school teacher, Juliet your material economically. Although we tend shares her stitching story via her blog to follow pattern-cutting instructions to the and YouTube channel, SewSoNatural. letter, this can often lead to fabric wastage. 29 sewmag.co.uk

INTERMEDIATE Make a statement in the ESSENTIALS Maya Dress Fabric, 2.5m (150cm) Phwoar, you’ll be batting off compliments left, right and centre when Concealed zip you slip on this pattern designed by Amanda Walker. With its sultry Button front split and dramatic keyhole back, this midi offers up a modest high neck, long shapely sleeves and a figure-hugging waist panel. SUGGESTED FABRICS 1 Download the pattern from folder to complete this process. sleeve until they measure the Lightweight wovens with drape, sewmag.co.uk, then print Open one side of the neck binding length of the cuff bindings. Unfold such as viscose or rayon challis and follow the cutting guide. bias strip and position it around one of the bias folds, then position Stitch the darts into the front the neckline on the wrong side. and sew the binding to the right SIZE bodice piece, from the side edge On the right side of the centre- side of the gathered sleeve base. of the darts to the points marked back opening, position the 8-24 on the pattern. Press the darts binding in line with the neatened 7 Match, pin and stitch the down towards the waistline. centre-back edge and on the left- underarm sleeve seams CUTTING GUIDE Neaten the side edges of the front hand side, leave the pressed together, right sides facing, and back bodice, across the folded seam allowance in place; then continue to sew into the cuff Front bodice: cut one shoulders of both the front and there should be excess binding binding, un-folding the remaining on the fold back bodice, and the centre-back extending past the end of the folded edge. Press the seams open Back bodice: cut one pair edges of the back bodice. neckline. Pin in place and stitch and turn the sleeves to the right Sleeve: cut one pair along the fold line pressed into side. Re-fold the binding, position Front skirt: cut one pair 2 Position the front and back the bias strip. the folded edge over the gathered Back skirt: cut one on the fold bodice pieces together, stitching line and edgestitch in Waistband: cut one pair right sides facing, then 4 Fold the bias strip over onto place, sandwiching the raw edges Neck binding: cut one match, pin and stitch the shoulder the right side of the neckline inside the binding. on the bias seams together. Press the seams and position the remaining Cuff binding: cut two allowances open. Match and sew folded edge over the stitching 8 Pull the gathering threads on the bias the centre-back seam, from the line, pin and edgestitch in place up and place the sleeves, base of the bodice to the notch sandwiching the raw edge of the matching the notches into 1.5cm seam allowances marked on the pattern. Press neckline inside the bias binding. the armholes of the bodice. Match used throughout, except the seam allowance open and As you approach the left-hand the side seams and the underarm around the bound neckline continue to press in the seam edge, carry on sewing the binding seam of the sleeves together. allowance, above the end of the in half; this excess strip will Distribute the gathers evenly and stitching, up into the neckline. become a loop to fasten the when you are happy, pin and top of the keyhole opening. stitch the sleeves in place. Neaten 3 Fold and press in 1cm on around the seam allowances of either side of all the bias 5 Form the excess binding the armholes. At the base of the strips or use a bias binding into a loop and tuck the raw bodice, make two lines of end of the binding under the gathering stitches within the folded seam allowance. Pin in seam allowance between the place and stitch over the end of notches marked on the front the loop to secure it in place, then and back bodice pattern pieces. down and up the opposite side of Pull the threads up and evenly the opening. Match, pin and sew distribute the gathers until the the back and front bodice side base of the bodice measures edges together. On the left-hand the length of the waistband. side of the bodice only, stitch the top part of the seam as far 9 Match the notches indicated as the notch; this opening will on the waistband to the side accommodate the zip. Press edges, centre-front and the seam allowance open. back. Pin and stitch in place. On the remaining waistband, press 6 Neaten the side edges of in the 1.5cm seam allowance on both sleeves. Adjust the one of the long edges. Match the stitch length to number five remaining edge to the base of and sew two rows of gathering the bodice this time on the stitches within the seam wrong side. Pin and stitch in allowance, around the head of the place, sandwiching the base sleeves starting and finishing as of the bodice between the indicated on the pattern piece. two waistbands. Make two rows of gathering stitches across the base of each 10 Neaten the side edges sleeve. Pull up the gathering of the front and back stitches across the base of the skirt pieces and the centre-front edges of the front 30 sewmag.co.uk

skirt. Lay the front skirt over the ADVERTORIAL back piece, match the side seams together and stitch. On the left- FREE hand side, edgestitch as far as the zip notch. Press the seams open. TEMPLATE Match the centre-front edges DOWNLOAD together and sew from the waistline to the notch marked sewmag.co.uk of the pattern piece. Press the /templates seam open and continue pressing the seam allowance over down This exclusive through the slit to the base of pattern is available the skirt. to download 1 1 At the waistline of the in sizes skirt, make two lines of gathering stitches, within 8-24 the seam allowance, between the notches marked on the front and back skirt pattern pieces. Pull the threads up and evenly distribute the gathers until the waistline measures the length of the waistband. Match the notches indicated on the waistband on the right side dress to the side edges and the centre-front and back skirt. Pin and stitch in place. 1 2 On the inside, position the pressed folded edge of the inside waistband, over the stitching line, attaching the skirt. Pin and hand stitch in place, sandwiching the raw edges of the skirt inside. The concealed zip can be stitched into the opening created between the side of the bodice and skirt. Neaten around the base of the skirt. Stitch around the pressed edges of the front slit, then turn up and edgestitch around the base of the skirt. Sew a button to the right-hand side of the back neck opening. RSighhtoNpow Hooked on getting that figure-flattering shape? Fittingly Sew 2 from Softbyte is a computer program for those who want to draft their own bespoke dressmaking patterns. It uses a huge range of sizes to fit any shape, combined with full control over features including seam allowance, darts, tucks, yokes and more. New to version two is the option to design your own fabrics using personal motifs, such as illustrations and photographs. Visit softbyte.co.uk 31 sewmag.co.uk

Willa Wrap Coat SIZES 6-34 pinatdteiren By Jennifer Lauren Handmade picks Difficulty: Intermediate Fire up your machine and get stuck in... Whatever the weather, the Willa Wrap Coat will keep you warm and cosy all year long. It’s essentially a blanket in disguise and there is even a button at the top that allows you to create a funnel-neck collar that sits just like a scarf. Although this is already set to be one of the comfiest releases of 2023, there is no risk of you losing style points thanks to the gentle tailoring. This gorgeous coat is semi- fitted through the back and shoulders for a sleek silhouette, and there are also darted front princess seams and multiple bust cups included in the design. There is a smart front closure; however, Willa looks just as lovely left completely open, so the buttons are an optional extra. Fully lined and with a slightly longer length, this classic coat now comes with a Hood Expansion Pack that is priced from £5 at jenniferlaurenhandmade.store SIZES 6-36 Fisterra Top & Dress SIZES 6-24 By Itch to Stitch Hathor Jacket Difficulty: Intermediate By Jennifer Lauren Handmade It’s never too early in the year to break Difficulty: Beginner out a beautiful dress – especially if you know how to put together Working at Sew HQ, we’ve seen layered looks with the help a fair few patterns in our time, of tights, cardigans, with many of them boasting an jackets and statement impressive number of variations, scarves. The Fisterra Top but the Hathor Vest has to be and Dress lends itself aiming for some kind of record! perfectly to transseasonal With a whopping 18 versions to choose from, this dressing. With this pattern, design has three neckline options, three styles of pocket, you have the option of and two closure methods to explore. Fully lined and stitching either a peplum fastened with either press studs or a zip, this sleeveless top or a midi dress. Both jacket is ideal for wearing under a thicker coat in very cold designs have short sleeves weather, but it would also work as a stand-alone layer when with pleated sleeve caps, the sun makes its first appearance. Depending on your but you also have the option choice of fabric, it could even act as a casual throw on for of introducing pleated sleeve cool summer evenings, so you can be sure that you will get cuffs if that better suits plenty of wear out of this garment. A step-by-step tutorial your vision. Designed with plenty of pictures accompanies this new release, so with experienced stitchers even beginners can join in the fun. From £9, iampatterns.fr in mind, this pattern provides you with plenty of opportunities to hone your skillset – there is a smart V-neck with facings, an elastic-shirred back waistband, a lined bodice, plus gathers at the front yoke seam and waist. The shoulder seam has also been moved forward to create a distinctive yoke seam. Turn to page seven for a 20% discount code. Prices for this pattern start at £12 from itch-to-stitch.com 32 sewmag.co.uk

DRESSMAKING DEPUTY EDITOR LIBBY SAYS... “Choose between short, three-quarter length, and long sleeves” SIZES 6-24 Pulp Bodysuit By Atelier Scammit Difficulty: Intermediate From date nights to the school run, the Pulp Bodysuit is chic and comfortable enough to work for all occasions. Offering three distinct sleeve options that are finished with an attractive cuff, this pattern is a brilliant pick for stitchers who are comfortable working with knit fabrics. It is also the ideal design for sewers of all sizes, boasting flat pleats at the front that will highlight your silhouette without clinging to any areas that you would prefer to go unnoticed. If you are on the taller or more petite side, you will also achieve great results thanks to an accompanying blogpost that guides you through the process of adjusting this pattern to suit your height. There is even a step-by-step assembly video, so although this project has been designed with intermediate stitchers in mind, ambitious newbies will have the resources they need to give this garment at go. From £9, atelier-scammit.com SIZES 6-30 Nicole Dress SIZES 6-30 Estelle Dress By Sew Over It By Sew Over It Difficulty: Intermediate Difficulty: Beginner With buttons down the front, a collar and Our top tip for stitchers who are self-conscious about collar stand, plus a midi A-line skirt with a their tummy area is to sew garments with a front tie gently curved hem, the Nicole boasts all the detail. Although this may seem like you are drawing classic features of a shirt dress. If you are a attention to your stomach, this cleverly constructed sucker for a stylish silhouette, you will love element will actually nip you in at the waist whilst the bust and waist darts in the bodice, and pulling attention away from the centre of your body. you even have the option of sewing a flat- The Estelle Dress is also incredibly comfortable to wear, fronted skirt with darts at the back. with the jersey fabric keeping you warm and the Alternatively, you can add volume to your optional side slits ensuring you have plenty of room for garment with a gathered skirt. Whatever movement. When you are evaluating your fabric you decide, the good news is, both versions options, why not pull out all the stops with a jersey have pockets! Not to let the skirt take all sequin or stretch velvet? Both choices are fabulous if the glory, Nicole’s sleeves also have plenty you have plans to wear your new make for a night on to offer – choose between two different the town. Alternatively, opt for an understated, styles that will last you all year long. The monochrome look and you will be treated to an shorter option is finished with a smart everyday frock that could easily be paired with trainers turn-up, whereas the long sleeve features and a denim jacket. The possibilities are endless! From traditional shirt cuffs with a bound opening. £11.50 from sewoverit.com Suited to woven fabrics such as viscose, crepe, cotton poplin, and cotton lawn, this fashion-forward frock is not to be missed! Prices start at £13.50 from sewoverit.com 33 sewmag.co.uk

BEGINNER Make our 80s-inspired batwing ESSENTIALS Samara Top Fabric, jersey, 2m (150cm) Yearning for a speedy sewing session? In just three simple steps you can create this versatile garment by Amanda Walker SUGGESTED FABRICS that will fit perfectly into your capsule wardrobe. This top has been designed exclusively for jersey and stretch fabrics, so be Stretch knit fabrics, such as viscose jersey or cotton jersey sure to switch your machine needle before you get started. SIZE 1 Download and print the template from sew 8-24 mag.co.uk and follow the cutting guide. Match CUTTING GUIDE the shoulder and sleeve seams of the front and back Front: cut one on the fold pieces together, pin, then Back: cut one on the fold stitch together with right Neck band: cut one strip, sides facing. Neaten the 4cm x 69cm seam allowances together Sleeve bands: cut one and press the seam towards strip, 4cm x 22cm the back. 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout, except 2 Sew the two ends of the neckline where a 1cm the neckband together seam allowance is used. with right sides facing to make a circle, then turn FREE the band to the right side, fold in half lengthways and TEMPLATE press flat. Overlock or DOWNLOAD machine stitch the neck band to the front and sewmag.co.uk back neckline, starting /templates by matching the join in the neckband to the centre- This exclusive back neckline. The neck pattern is available band is slightly smaller than the neckline so will to download need stretching to fit. in sizes Press the seam allowance downwards so that the band 8-24 stands up into the neckline. 3 Lay the back and front pieces together with right sides facing. Match, pin the under sleeves edges and side edges together, then stitch. Neaten the seam allowances together. The ends of the sleeves are finished in the same way as the neckline with the two sleeve bands. Match the join in the bands to the under sleeve seam. Neaten around the base of the top, then fold and press up a 3cm hem. Set your machine to a zig zag stitch, then sew the hem in place. 34 sewmag.co.uk

timeTEABREAK Setow Bro Delve into our comprehensive guide to men’s sewing Words by Sophie Tarrant F or hundreds of years, fashion houses around the world have been led by talented male creators. The likes of Karl Lagerfeld, Jean Paul Gautier, and Dolce & Gabbana are revered for their design flair and commitment to garment creation. So why is sewing still so often considered a traditionally ‘female’ pursuit? Carry on reading to find out what it’s like to be a male sewist, with information on the best menswear designers, workshops, books, and interviews with some of the makers who are taking the stitching world by storm. Award winning craft expert John Bloodworth, AKA Gentleman Crafter, loves to share his passion for making through TV broadcasting, teaching, and more recently, his own Youtube channel. “I’ve always had a passion for all things creative,” recalls John, who lives in a seaside town in Fife, Scotland. “It’s not just an enjoyable pastime, though – it’s also helped me cope with many of life’s little hiccups along the way. My favourite thing about being a designer and maker is that I get to do what I love for a living. A cliché perhaps, but it’s the truth!” Having fostered a passion for crafts since an early age, John went on to forge a successful TV career, where he produced over 10,000 hours of content for channels including Create & Craft TV and worked with leading industry names, such as Kaffe Fassett. However, in 2016, John decided to leave the security of his home life behind him and took to the road to pursue his All Counties Craft Challenge. This fundraising effort saw him spend over a year visiting over 90 historic counties across the UK whilst living, teaching, and vlogging from a motorhome, at the same times as raising over £24,000 for mental health charity Mind. “It’s fair to say that my own life had been turned upside down by mental health issues in the years preceding the challenge, and Mind were always there as an outstanding support mechanism through it all,” he explains. “I decided to do the challenge to give something back. As an added bonus, I was very happy to be able to share the beneficial properties of crafting along the way!” When asked why he thinks sewing seems to be more popular amongst women than with men, John actually thinks this may not be the case. “This question always surprises me,” he says, “as I know lots of men who 35 sewmag.co.uk

enjoy sewing! I think the difference is that for It’s for this reason that John suggests of accomplishment that will fire up women, sewing is social – with groups, classes, grabbing a purpose-made kit is the ideal way the passion for creativity in the future.” and mutual support. With men, I feel it’s more to jump into a new hobby. “Start with a kit that of a solitary activity. It’s a challenge to overcome, has a defined end project,” he suggests. “This To find out more about John and view a skill to acquire, or a problem to solve. It’s not only provides everything you need in one his online classes, crafty project ideas and probably more popular with men than we box, but it also gives you an end goal to work more, visit gentlemancrafter.com or find realise, we just don’t see them doing it.” towards and reward yourself for. It’s this sense him on Instagram and Facebook @GentlemanCrafter Designer Norris Danta Ford lives school and college putting the puzzle pieces together initiative. “I started it to give in Atlanta, Georgia with his wife just added to the as the garment is coming to life. menswear makers a voice,” he says, (and sewing megastar), Mimi confidence I had in Ironically, my least favourite part “so they can tell their very own ‘sew G. He creates patterns my style choices.” is usually the very last step, story’. In a way I see it as the glue for brands including making buttonholes and doing bringing all the different male sewing Simplicity, Know Me After meeting hems. I also try to avoid working communities together. It’s a platform Patterns, and McCalls, his wife in 2015, alterations – I would rather make to find inspiration, share resources, and teaches others Norris would help something from scratch. The only talk fashion, and highlight star players through the Sew Mimi film and edit her sewing people I do that for are my mother, in the community. It Academy. tutorials. “After about a year of and my mother-in-law, because doing that,” he says, “I told her how can we say no to our “My number one piece of advice “I haven’t always ‘Babe, I think I want to learn to moms!?” he laughs. for other men who want to take on been passionate about sew’. Fashion had been my stitching is to go slow at the beginning sewing, and to be honest entire life up until this point Like John, Norris says that and focus on getting the basics down before meeting my wife so being introduced to sewing sewing has a growing male before trying to get too creative. From Mimi I didn’t know that a from the queen herself made it community. “I think it’s more there you can start to take on specific community like this even feel so natural. popular than most might think,” pieces that you naturally wear often. existed,” says Norris, who “My first project was he says. “Yes, women have Lastly, I would recommend sewing a previously lived and worked recreating my favourite t-shirt. I dominated the industry for a long different garment with each new in Los Angeles as a celebrity drafted the pattern and stitched time, but it’s because they have project, so that you force yourself to wardrobe stylist. “I have it up, then I made another. I said many more resources. Back in learn new skills every time.” always had a real passion that next, I wanted to create a 2016 when I was learning to sew, for fashion, though. suit. At that point Mimi I could barely find any menswear To view more of Norris’ stylish encouraged me to relax a bit patterns I felt excited about. designs, visit norrisdantaford.com. “My younger sister and I grew because there were so many Luckily, I had my wife to teach Alternatively gather inspiration at up in foster homes until I was six more things to learn before me new skills, so I didn’t always @DopeMenSewOfficial on Instagram, years old, and I wanted to dress jumping into tailoring! need one. or log on to SewItAcademy.com to up and look nice for potential “I just love the entire creative view the workshops available. future parents who came to visit process. I enjoy fabric shopping, “Over the years Mimi and I us. When we finally got adopted cutting with my big shears, and have played a major part in and placed into an amazing creating more resources for the home, I thought it was because menswear makers, from patterns of how well-dressed we were, under the Mimi G Style brand to and from there on my classes through our Sew It appearance became one of my Academy. Another game changer biggest forms of creative is that I wasn’t afraid to share that expression. Being the best- I make, and was able to make it dressed student in my high look cool. Before I learnt to sew men would email my wife all the time with amazing garments they had created, but they never wanted her to publicly share their work. Now we consistently see more men sharing and participating in the community, which allows the industry to know we exist, so we can have more resources created for us too.” In an effort to encourage other male makers Norris has also created the Dope Men Sew 36 sewmag.co.uk

TEA BREAK Pattern Round-Up STEP INTO STITCHING WITH THE LATEST MENSWEAR PATTERNS Whilst they might not be Founded by Mimi G, specifically just for men, many Know Me Patterns of Melilot’s patterns have been features designs by other designed to be gender neutral, makers from the sewing meaning they are comfortable community, such as this and flattering for a wide range of varsity jacket created by wearers. We love the cosy casual menswear designer fit of this Maggi raglan sweater, Scorpio Uzuh. “Becoming which can be made up in a variety a licensee for Simplicity in of different fabrics. melilot.no 2014 did amazing things for my career,” says Mimi, “and I have always wanted to give that opportunity to other makers!” somethingdelightful. com/know-me Canadian pattern house Thread Theory was founded by designer Morgan Meredith and her partner Matt in 2012, to bring menswear to the forefront of the DIY fashion movement. They offer a wide range of men’s patterns and haberdashery items, including the ever-popular Quadra jeans. threadtheory.ca Whilst she might be known for her Founded by designer Carolyn on-trend women’s garments, designer Denham and photographer Viktoria Rakusa (aka VikiSews – available Roderick Field, Merchant & Mills through The Fold Line here in the UK) has is known the world over for their recently branched out into menswear, understated, stylish designs, and too. We love the simple lines and bold, in the past have collaborated with London’s V&A Museum and oversized cut of the double-breasted Alexander McQueen. The Arbor shirt was inspired by vintage Bernard Overcoat. thefoldline.com workwear and can be made up as a shirt or a jacket, depending on your fabric choice. merchantandmills.com on the Shelf ADD A LITTLE CREATIVITY TO YOUR BOOKCASE WITH THESE TOP TITLES Sewing Basics In his first book, The Gentleman’s for Every Body The Crafty Wardrobe by Vanessa (£12.99, Cico Mooncie (£16.99, Books) is the Gentleman’s Guide GMC Publications) is ideal creative made for debonair companion for to Modern Paper makers who prefer makers of all Piecing (£15.99, tweed over denim, body shapes, Search Press), self- and retro cuts over sizes, and confessed sewing modern styles. It genders, in addict and blogger features a range of which stitching Mike Aspinall shares patterns and advice expert Wendy all there is to know for classic menswear Ward teaches about paper piece staples such as how to create a capsule wardrobe quilt-making. The vests, trousers, and jackets, alongside of 20 key pieces that can be made, collection features seven indispensable accessories including a worn, and loved again and again. stunning contemporary cravat tie, a flat cap, and a wallet. designs, each demonstrating a new technique. 37 sewmag.co.uk

Multi Ditsy Floral Back to Cropped Stretch the 80s Trouser, £25, roman.co.uk Sew a blast from the past Ever since the smash hit Netflix show Stranger Things graced our screens, 80s nostalgia has been at an all-time high. Internet searches for ‘80s fashion’ have gone up 1,100%, songs from the decade have been back in the charts and even the mullet has been enjoying a resurgence. In the spirit of the revival, we’re throwing it back with our fabric picks and going for saturated colours and prints for the bold... Minimalists, look away now! MORE IS MORE Carnation Carnival Retro Indigo Carnaby Collection cotton, £18 per metre, elephant inmyhandbag.com BOLD & BRIGHT Dashwood Studio Circle Line rayon challis in turquoise, £17.99 per metre, minerva.com NEON LIGHTS Psychedelic Marble Swirls, £10.99 per metre, bluemagik clothing.etsy.com GEO MOOD Art Gallery Fabrics Floralia Fusion, Roadside Guides, 100% Cotton Poplin, £16.99 per metre, minerva.com 38 sewmag.co.uk

Debbie Shore's SEWING SECRETS Traditional English smocking involves gathering fabric. It is sometimes done with a ‘pleater’ which has rows of needles and a grooved roller. The material can also be gathered and embroidered by hand, but I find it’s so much quicker to use a sewing machine. Bear in mind how much the fabric will ‘shrink’ when gathered, too. I used a 55cm piece of material for the 15cm patch below. If you are including a smocked section in a dress, you can either use the fullness of the gathered material as a skirt or trim the fabric back to the smocked section and stitch it into a panel. 3 Knot the threads at each end to secure, then choose a decorative stitch. If there aren’t many, a simple zig zag will suffice. 1 Use a long straight stitch and loosen 5 Choose whether to keep the gathering the top tension. Sew rows across the stitches in place or pull them out. fabric, 1cm apart, leaving long thread Press the surrounding fabric and trim tails at each end. where necessary. 4 Sew decorative stitches across the pleats, in between the gathered lines. Use different coloured threads to create a beautiful effect. 2 To gather, take the bobbin thread and 6 Try including a smocked panel gently pull it row by row. This can also as a block in a quilt. Alternatively, be done with shirring elastic, but the you can frame a single patch with pleats won’t be as tight. a border of fabric and incorporate it into a cushion cover. For more great tips from Debbie, visit halfyardsewingclub.com 39 sewmag.co.uk

BEGINNER ESSENTIALS Punch needle your way to an l Fabric: canvas, 45cm square; Embossed duck canvas, 50cm square Cushion l Yarn: yellow, cream, red 30g of each; navy blue, This stylish cushion from Duygu Turgut Gökpınar is at the top 50g; beige, 15g l Wooden of our sewing list. Scattered with vibrant florals, it’s guaranteed to frame, square, 40cm give your home the ‘wow’ factor. By leaving the background of the l Adjustable punch needle pillow unstitched, the flowers look as if they have been embossed l Staple gun l Staple remover onto it. If the colours don’t match your décor, simply pick out your l Screwdriver and pliers l Fabric glue l Zip, 40cm favourite shades to recreate it. Ready, set, punch needle! l Iron Scan with your phone’s camera to watch how to start! 1 Download and print the 2 Place the template under Punch the needle a little closer whilst templates from sewmag. the frame and hold it up to embroidering single lines such as co.uk. Cut the fabric so there a light source so the design a flower stalk so there is no gap is 5-10cm extra all around the can be seen through the material. between the loops and the fabric 40cm frame. Wrap the material Trace over it with a pencil. Adjust cannot be seen between the lines. around and staple it in place. the needle to five and keep this Position the fabric right-side setting for the whole project. The 3 Thread the punch needle with down on a flat surface and centre flowers and leaves in the pattern yarn and fill in the first shape. the frame on top. Wrap the are not linked to each other, so Once it has been filled in, cut excess material around the edges the design can be started at any the yarn and start afresh on the of the frame and staple or use a point, but if there are shapes next shape. Once all of the flowers small hammer and panel pins within shapes, the innermost and shapes have been embroidered, whilst stretching the fabric. shape must be completed first. trim any starting and finishing lengths of yarn so they are even with the fluffy sections. 4 Remove the project from the frame using a staple remover or a screwdriver and pliers. Trim the edges of material, leaving an allowance of 3cm all round. The background of this cushion is not filled in, so it is not as tightly stitched as other projects. Brush fabric glue on the flat side of the work. Leave it to dry for 24 hours. Get the Book Discover 25 stunning punch needle projects, from vibrant children’s bags to wall hangings. Modern Punch Needle by Duygu Turgut Gökpınar. £14.99, tuvapublishing.com 40 sewmag.co.uk

HOME & GIFTS FREE TEMPLATE DOWNLOAD sewmag.co.uk /templates DUYGU SAYS... “I recommend using duck canvas as it has a less open weave when compared to other linens for embroidery” 41 sewmag.co.uk

BEGINNER Keep your home cosy with a ESSENTIALS Draught Excluder l Fabric, matching fat quarters, eight l Faux leather If you are a fan of patchwork, but you are looking to take a break strap l Polyester filling l Quilt from the traditional quilt, this practical make from Amanda Walker wadding or curtain interlining is the perfect project for you. A home accessory that can be made using all kinds of assorted prints, you have the freedom to create a unique excluder that has been stitched to suit your personal taste. What’s more, this project can be completed in just four simple steps, making it a great choice for beginners and beyond! Quilting lines of stitching could be introduced on each side of the long seams of the strips 42 sewmag.co.uk

HOME & GIFTS FREE TEMPLATE DOWNLOAD sewmag.co.uk /templates RSighhtoNpow Amanda has used the brand- new Crafting Magic fabric range, a part of The Season of Tribute print series by renowned Art Gallery Fabrics designer Maureen Cracknell. Scattered with woodland characters, dainty bumblebees and rich-toned florals, this tonal set is just the ticket for a patchwork project like this one. For stockists, visit hantex.co.uk AMANDA SAYS... “The draught excluder can be packed with all kinds of filler. You could use the filling from an old cushion, and old t-shirts would also work as stuffing” 1 Download and print the different rectangles are as the appearance is meant to 4 Match and stitch the two templates from sewmag. connected in one long strip. Press be random. long sides together, leaving co.uk. Cut out eight or the seam allowances open. a 7mm seam allowance. nine rectangular strips from 3Lay the piece face down on Position the seam in the centre of each of the eight fat quarters, 2Lay the strip along one of the top of the first attached strip, the tube, then flatten and pin the 5cm x 15cm. You should have long edges of the wadding, matching the raw edges ends. Cut a 20cm length of faux approximately 80 in total, but you pin in place, then edgestitch together. Pin and stitch along the leather strap, position it inside may need more or less depending in place. The strip will be longer length of the strip, through all the the tube at one of the flattened on how the strips are stitched than the wadding. Trim the excess layers, leaving a 7mm seam ends. Re-pin and stitch across, together. Snip a rectangle from away. Put together another eight allowance. Open the strip to the sandwiching the handle inside the the quilt wading or curtain rectangles in the same order, right side and press along the seam. At the remaining end, sew interlining, 40cm x the width of pressing the seam allowances length of the seam. Carry on in approximately 2cm from each your door. Stitch the rectangular open. Turn the piece around so making and attaching strips in corner. Turn the tube to the right strips together, matching the that no two rectangles are sitting the same way until ten rows have side through the gap between the short ends of two different strips next to each other. Leave the been attached. Edgestitch the last stitching. Tease out the corners and leaving a 7mm seam excess hanging from the starting raw edge of the last strip, then and stuff. Hand-stitch the open allowance. Continue until eight point, staggering the strips. trim away the excess wadding edges of the tube can be closed. There is no set measurement, and any excess from the strips. 43 sewmag.co.uk

BEGINNER Treat a loved-up couple to our ESSENTIALS Happily Ever After Hoop l Fabric, cotton, light green, dark green, light pink, dark pink, orange, coral, aqua, printed florals, printed green l Felt l Lightweight iron-on interfacing l Acid-free glue stick l Tissue paper l Embroidery hoop, 23cm Create your very own fairytale ending with Carolyn Letten’s embroidery hoop. Made using appliqué and free motion stitches, this romantic project will also provide a brilliant opportunity for you to step up your machine embroidery skills. For beginners who need to ease into this, simply use a smaller hoop when free machining the flowers and gently move it around the fabric as required. 1 Download and print the hoop down into place, then fabric, underneath the material template from sewmag. carefully tighten up the screw. behind the words. Use a dark co.uk. Cut a circle of aqua turquoise thread to free fabric, 38cm diameter. Place the 2 Trace the words onto tissue machine embroider once over outer hoop underneath the paper, place it centrally in the lines. Tear the paper away, material, then lay the fabric the hoop and secure with sew over them again and fill in centrally on top. Push the inner tape or a pin. Place a thin piece the letters. Trim off any excess of felt, the same colour as the felt at the back of the hoop. Add your favourite flowers and 3 Cut out the various colours for a personal touch flowers from plain fabric. From the prints, snip two pink flowers, one pink petal flower centre and eight mini flowers. Cut out eight big and two small dark green leaves. Snip out four big and four small light green leaves. Cut out five daffodil leaf tips from patterned green fabric. Back all of the elements with iron on interfacing. 4 With the material still in the hoop and all of the pieces cut, arrange them in place in the hoop and stick them in place using small dabs of acid-free glue. Free motion machine embroider around all the flowers, using coordinating and contrasting threads. Reposition the hoop to sew around the edges of the design. 5 Place the inner hoop underneath the finished design and push the outer hoop down on top of it. Pull the fabric taut whilst tightening the screw. Use a long double thread to hand-stitch a line of large running stitches, 2cm in from the raw edge all the way around. Pull the thread to gather up the material, then secure the end. 44 sewmag.co.uk

FREE HOME & GIFTS TEMPLATE CAROLYN SAYS... DOWNLOAD sewmag.co.uk “This striking hoop is suited for all /templates manner of occasions – simply change the words to suit the sentiment!” 45 sewmag.co.uk

AT HOME WITH Photography: Rachel Whiting Stuart Hillard “I decided when I hit 40 that a day doesn’t give me enough scope for celebrating, so it’s been a month ever since!” T he new year is guaranteed to herald appropriate in linen or cotton garments fresh plans in the form of quilting and home décor. I look forward to including simple tops, shirts, and wide being inspired by the trends of the coming months; in particular, the colours and legged trousers. Sew Girl has some patterns predicted to make a huge splash in spring and summer. The start of the year has fabulous patterns that will work well always been an exciting time for me because it’s the perfect opportunity to spruce up my home in linen or cotton blends, and these and indulge in a spot of sewing. It’s perhaps the approach of spring and of course the designs have the same outdoorsy feel. announcement of the Pantone Colour of the Year that sets my mind racing! This year, If yellow or green isn’t your thing, don’t Pantone has announced its pick is Viva Magenta. This is huge news for many creatives. worry – there are lots of other on-trend I don’t always decorate my house or make colours to inspire you. The majority of my quilts based on the latest trends, but I do take a healthy interest in what is hot or not; and it them are warm blush colours and I’m not seems the natural world is where it’s at! The Dulux Colour of the Year is Wild Wonder, a soft complaining. They are incredibly calming golden yellow with a subtle green undertone. It’s a beautiful natural shade that inspires feelings and work beautifully to warm up a neutral of being outdoors, surrounded by nature. It captures the calm and enriching wildness of open interior. Benjamin Moore, one of my green space. This colour is one I’ll be adopting in my garden room where it will read more ‘yellow’ favourite paint manufacturers, has gone as there is so much natural light. It’s the perfect hue for dressmaking too; it looks entirely for Raspberry Blush: a rich pinky coral Ycooumceasnf’rtobmeaatntohpeecnalgmreneenssspthaacet guaranteed to bring energy and zeal to any room. This might work in my kitchen; I could make some new Roman blinds in taupe and a contrasting bright blue check fabric. I will always go for blinds over curtains if I get the chance as I don’t enjoy joining big widths of fabric for curtains. WI’vaelkbienegninbuNsaytuexrepyaanrdninrganmgye The wallpaper supplier Graham and Brown has gone deeper with Alizarin, an earthy pink that would look amazing in a snug, living room, or bedroom. Small rooms become cocoons in dark shades like these. These oodles of wonderful shades – so you can tones will also come in handy if you’re working always feel the calmness of a walk in the country. on your next quilt or blanket. I love combining It’s also my birthday month soon, too. I decided soft, warm pink and putty shades with toasty when I hit 40 that a day didn’t give me enough neutrals like taupe, mushroom and cappuccino scope for celebrating, so it’s been a month ever brown. Tilda Solids and, in particular their since! To honour it, I’ve been busy designing chambray fabrics, are some of my favourites at lots of new projects, patterns, yarns, and fabrics. the moment. They have such a gorgeous range which will all be launching at the beginning of of colours to choose from. If I’m picking yarn the month. I love bright, rainbow colours, so a for a blanket project, then I have to go straight to lot of my birthday projects feature rainbows. Stylecraft’s Naturals Bamboo and Cotton range. I’ve even tried to mix things up with the Not only does it have the perfect nature-inspired introduction of pastel and moody rainbows. colour palette, but the look of the yarn is perfect There’s so much to look forward to! for woodland-themed makes. I’m launching a brand-new range of sock You can check in with Stuart on yarns at the Stitches Trade fair at the NEC later createandcraft.com, channels Virgin 748, this month. Taking inspiration from the natural Freeview 95, Freesat 813 and Sky 683, or world, my ‘Walking in Nature 2’ range features visit @stuarthillardsews on Instagram 46 sewmag.co.uk

INTERMEDIATE Appliqué is made easy with our GET STARTED BohoWall l Fabric: 11 scraps, 10cm x Banner 22cm; assorted scraps, 21- 25cm square; cream, 27cm Who would have thought a few scraps of fabric and a thin wooden x 38cm; backing, 41cm x stick could be transformed into a breath-taking banner? Well, 69cm l Wadding, cotton blend, medium weight Debbie von Grabler-Crozier that’s who! One of 20 projects in her l Yarn or embroidery thread new book Sewing with Scraps, this wall hanging would make a l Wooden stick, 2cm fabulous addition to your craft corner, living space, or bedroom. x 43cm l Jute twine l Fabric glue l Tassel maker SIZE 35cm x 53cm (without tassel and hanging cord) 1 Download and print the 2 Attach the top patchwork The wadding will be bigger and templates from sewmag. panel to the top of the front won’t follow the triangle shape co.uk. From the patchwork background panel, right at the bottom. It will be trimmed scraps, cut seven rectangles sides together. Sew the triangle to shape at the end. Quilt the from different prints, 6cm x panel to the bottom of the front project with the desired design; a 14cm. From different prints, background panel, right sides diagonal wave design is pictured. snip out templates A, B, C together. Press. Make the appliqué Trim the wadding to the shape of and D. Cut out the arches of rainbow by nesting three arcs the banner. Place the quilted and template E in different prints. together on the front panel so the interfaced front onto the backing Sew the rectangles for the top raw edges line up against each fabric, right sides together. Sew patchwork panel, right sides other but don’t overlap. Make all the way around, leaving a 5cm together and along the longest sure the design is centred. gap in the top straight edge. Clip edges to make a strip. Using the Glue the pieces into position across the corners of the seam joining guide, sew the patches for using fabric glue. allowance to reduce bulk, then the triangle right sides together, turn to cut the banner through rotating templates A and D 3 Press the appliquéd and the gap. Press. accordingly. Press. patchwork top and lay it onto the piece of wadding. 4 Topstitch narrowly along the top straight edge to close the turning gap. Fold the top patchwork section over by 5cm and slip-stitch the top edge to the back by hand, stitching through the backing to form a casing for the hanging stick. Thread the stick through the casing. To make a hanger, plait the length of jute twine, then tie each end to either side of the stick. 5 Using the traditional cardboard method or a tassel maker, make the tassel using a scrap of yarn or embroidery thread. For the cardboard method, wind the yarn around a piece of card around 40 times. Slide another length of yarn underneath the loops of yarn along the top of the card and tie off, leaving long tails of thread for attaching to the project. Trim through the loops of yarn at the bottom of the card, then tie off the ‘waist’ with another long length of yarn. Tuck the ‘waist’ tails through the wrapped waist to blend in with the tassel, then trim the tassel ends to neaten. Sew it to the bottom point of the patchwork. 48 sewmag.co.uk

HOME & GIFTS DEBBIE SAYS... Get the Book “Use your walking Thrifty stitchers are going to foot to quilt love the 20 projects in Sewing a nice pattern. I love a random with Scraps by Debbie von diagonal wave and I Grabler-Crozier. RRP £6.99, use it for everything. You can do it on just searchpress.com about any home sewing machine” 49 sewmag.co.uk

INTERMEDIATE You’ll be up, up and away with our hot air balloon GET STARTED Patchwork l Fabric, cotton: assorted Block Quilt plains; assorted prints; patterned white; backing Ideal for decorating your little one’s bedroom, this eye-catching l Quilt wadding design by Corinne Bradd will certainly capture a child’s imagination. CUTTING GUIDE Follow the cutting guide to prepare your pieces beforehand, then simply use the layout to work out the perfect palette for your balloon. For each block, you will need Your sewing skills will be sky high after mastering topstitching, quilt to cut the following: l Background: two binding and half square triangle blocks, so come on, get started! 6.5cm squares, two 8.5cm x 11cm rectangles, one 3.5cm Make a block out each half-square triangle Arrange the HSTs on a work x 6cm rectangle (HST) block and press. Each HST surface as per the diagram to l Colour A: one 4cm square, 1 Download and print the should measure 6cm square. make a four by four block. Sew one 3.5cm x 6cm rectangle, layout diagram from the blocks together in pairs, three 6.5cm squares sewmag.co.uk. On the back 2 Take one of the A and B then blocks of four, before l Colour B: four 6.5cm squares of the 6.5cm squares, mark a HSTs and place right sides sewing into one large block. l Colour C: four 6.5cm squares pencil line from corner to corner. together onto the remaining l Colour D: four 6.5cm Pair up the squares right sides background square, leaving an 3 Take the 4cm square of A squares, one 6cm square together as follows: two of A with equal border all round. Draw a and cut in half diagonally. two of B; two of B with two of C; diagonal line intersecting the Place each triangle face Note: use contrasting colours two of C with two of D; one of D diagonal of the HST. Sew either up onto the large rectangles on for best effect, e.g. A and C with one of A; one of D with one side of this line with a 3mm seam background colour: one in the top in shades of orange, with B background colour piece. Sew allowance, before cutting along left and the other in the top right and D in shades of blue. either side of the drawn line with the drawn line. Open out and corners of the rectangles. Flip the a 4mm seam allowance. Cut press; this HST will be slightly triangles over and shift 5mm along the drawn line, then open smaller than the 6cm square. towards the background corners. 50 sewmag.co.uk

HOME & GIFTS Sew along the diagonal edge of Sew the quilt 2 Layer the quilt top onto CORINNE SAYS... the triangle with a 5mm seam wadding and backing fabric, allowance, flip the triangles back 1 Press each balloon block and then pin well. Topstitch down “A mitred corner and press. square up to 21cm x 31cm. each column seam and around will help reduce Arrange on a flat surface in each balloon shape. Trim the bulk, making 4 Take the remaining three columns of two balloons, wadding and backing fabric to the it easier to feed rectangle of background offsetting the blocks vertically so size of the quilt top if necessary through the sewing colour and stitch between they overlap by 5cm. Cut three and zig zag stitch around the edge. the 6cm square of D and the infill panels from the background Cut several 3cm wide strip of machine” rectangle of A. Sew this panel colour, measuring 21cm square coloured fabric and sew end to end between the two tipped for the centre of the quilt, and to make a continuous strip. Bind background rectangles, matching four 21cm x 27cm panels for the the edges with this strip, stitching up the bottom of the triangle in corners. Sew the infills to the to the back of the quilt and mitring each corner with the seam line of tops and bottoms of the balloon the corners before flipping to the A. Press well and stitch to the blocks before stitching the front, turning under 5mm of the lower edge of the main block. columns together. binding and topstitching in place. FREE DIAGRAM DOWNLOAD sewmag.co.uk /templates 51 sewmag.co.uk