National Geographic Traveller

I S TA N B U L Locals cast fishing lines from the Galata Bridge and into the Golden Horn at sunset DECEMBER 2022 151

I S TA N B U L Despite the business’ apparent deference of the city’s coffee scene is being written: the Short and sweet to tradition, Aslı is mindful of the future. fashionable, ‘third-generation’ cafes, focusing When ordering “Things are changing massively,” she says. on quality and craft. “I call it ‘lattefication’,” Turkish coffee, you’ll “Climate change is affecting the growth of she says wryly, as teenagers pose for photos be asked how sweet cocoa and coffee, which affects the pricing. in front of candy-coloured buildings. “These you want it: sade for Coffee might even become a luxury product areas are very slowly becoming gentrified. plain, az şerkeli for a in 20 years.” She shrugs. “It’s hard to say.” We’re seeing it everywhere, but this is what little sugar and şerkeli But there’s no time to dwell on what might many people want now.” for sweet. Don’t drink be — Aslı is back to work behind the counter, to the bottom of the customers jostling for space outside the shop. We order two Turkish coffees at a cafe in cup unless you want a Fener and take a pew. Life ticks by: opposite, mouthful of grounds Over in down-to-earth Balat and Fener, a white cat slinks along the low rooftops, however, two contiguous districts to the moving elegantly and sure-footedly as if From left: Aslı Tapucu in her studio at İhsan northwest, things are less frantic. These have performing for the elderly couple watching Kurukahvecioğlu; cezve coffee pots for always been working neighbourhoods, home below. A man on a bike zips past, his basket sale in the Spice Bazaar; locals catch up at to Jews, Albanians and Greeks, evidenced in loaded with fruit, the old wheels clattering Factory Karaköy the number of old synagogues and Orthodox on the cobblestones. When I finish my churches that stand venerably on quiet coffee, Duygu decides to have another go street corners. These days, however, Balat at predicting my destiny. “Hmm,” she says, and Fener are becoming popular for their squinting carefully at the bitter dregs. “I think bohemian cafes, many of which are perfecting that’s a bird, which means you’ll receive some Australian-style oat lattes and American- news soon. Or is it a boat — that would mean style pancakes. Two decades after the arrival some kind of journey?” of ‘second-generation’ coffeeshops like Starbucks, Duygu reckons another chapter She laughs. Whatever it means, you won’t find it in a flat white.

INSIDER TIPS Tea (çay) is, in fact, more commonly drunk than Turkish coffee and is sipped all hours of the day. Don’t bother with the flavoured varieties; most Turks drink it black in small glasses, and sweetened to taste. Ferries are both an efficient and scenic way to get around. Catch one to Kadiköy, on the Asian side: this laid-back neighbourhood offers a taste of local Istanbul life, with an excellent food market, street art and Bosphorus views from Cafe Kemal. Good-natured bartering is expected in the Grand Bazaar, but if you really aren’t interested in making a purchase, make it clear from the beginning and don’t waste merchants’ time. 14 HOURS IN Beyoğlu 9A M 1 2 . 3 0 PM BRE AKFA ST AT C AFE PRIVATO LUNCH AT GÜNEY You could spend a lifetime exploring Istanbul, Watch the city tick by from the terrace of this so consider tackling one neighbourhood stylish lokanta (bistro-style restaurant), right per day. Trendy Beyoğlu offers plenty for in the shadow of the Galata Tower. Take your travellers, so start your day the Turkish way pick from a menu of classic Turkish staples with one of the country’s legendary breakfasts. such as lamb kebabs with aubergine sauce, Few places do it as well as this boho cafe near menemen (eggs scrambled in a spiced tomato the 14th-century Galata Tower, where the sauce) and pide, a sort of boat-shaped pizza köy kahvaltası is a must. Expect the works: crammed with cheese and other fillings. Turkish charcuterie, cheese, fresh fruit, olives There’s an excellent drinks menu, too, and gözleme, a folded flatbread stuffed with including plenty of full-bodied Turkish reds. cheese and spinach. Bring a friend — it can guneyrestaurant.com easily feed two. Timarci Sokak 3b 2PM 1 0. 3 0A M MUSEUM OF INNOCENCE PERA MUSEUM In 2008, author Orhan Pamuk published The Housed in a former hotel, this grand, 19th- Museum of Innocence, which explored the century building was renovated in 2005 and obsessional romance between an upper-class now offers four floors of exhibitions that man and his working-class cousin. In tandem, recount Turkey’s story, from its distant days as he curated a museum of the same name, which Byzantium all the way to the modern Turkish is full of objects worn, used and referenced by state. The art is perhaps the most impressive of characters in the book as though it were all all the collections, particularly the Orientalist real life. Even if you haven’t read the Nobel paintings, which depict the Ottoman era Prize-winning writer’s work, the museum through a masterclass of depth, colour and is worth a visit for the social history, with texture. Don’t miss the ceramics either, among photographs, exhibits and artefacts that chart them a number of beautiful ewers and coffee life in fast-changing, 20th-century Istanbul. cups. Closed Mondays. peramuseum.org Closed Mondays. masumiyetmuzesi.org DECEMBER 2022 153

I S TA N B U L Left: Pistachio baklava with clotted cream and tea at Karaköy Güllüoğlu FeneGrolde Horn Taksim SquareB o s phoru Balat n s Beyoğlu İstiklal Avenue Karaköy Eminönü 200 yards Spice Market Topkapı Palace Grand Bazaar I S TA N B U L Istanbul Kadiköy TURKEY Sea of Marmara 4PM 7PM GETTING THERE & AROUND ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER British Airways flies direct from BAKL AVA AT K AR AKÖY GÜLLÜOĞLU SCRUB UP AT A HA MM A M Heathrow; Pegasus Airlines from Stansted and Manchester; and Turkish Squeeze into this Istanbul institution for a If you visit only one hammam (Turkish bath) Airlines from Heathrow, Gatwick, slice of something sweet. Place your order during your time in Istanbul, be sure to make Birmingham, Manchester, Edinburgh at the till and take your receipt to one of the it Kiliç Ali Paşa Hamamı. Dating back to 1580, and Dublin. ba.com flypgs.com servers behind the glass counters, where trays the hammam was restored in the 2000s and turkishairlines.com upon trays of flaky, nutty baklava glisten with today offers a top-notch lathering and scrub- Average flight time: 4h20m. syrup. If the choice overwhelms, you can’t go down — followed by a glass of çay beneath Istanbul’s key tourist areas are wrong with one of the huge slices of pistachio the beautiful domed ceiling. There are fixed walkable, but factor in enough time baklava with a dollop of clotted cream and times for women (8.00am to 4.00pm) and to get around this sprawling city. a glass of çay (black tea) to cut through the men (4.30pm to 11.30pm). However, if that There’s a good network of trams, sweetness. As well as walnut and hazelnut doesn’t suit, consider going to the elegant, buses, funiculars and a metro. varieties, vegan and gluten-free baklava are pearl-white Cağaloğlu hammam, located just Commuter ferry services link the also available. karakoygulluoglu.com minutes from the Blue Mosque and Grand European and Asian sides, and run Bazaar, which has separate baths for men and up and down the Bosphorus and the 5PM women. kilicalipashahamami.com Golden Horn. A single crossing starts cagaloguhamami.com.tr at 15TL (80p). Yellow taxis are also WATCH THE DERVISHES WHIRL plentiful and affordable. 8PM Every Wednesday at the Galata Mevlevi House WHEN TO GO Museum, an order of Sufi Muslims (dervishes) DINNER AND DRINKS Spring and early autumn are the best perform elaborate, spinning dances in an times to visit, with pleasant highs of attempt to commune with Allah. Their chants Karaköy Gümrük feels somewhere between around 25C. Summer can be humid, and billowing robes are spellbinding to watch a Budapest ruin bar and a Belgian brasserie, with temperatures easily reaching the and have become something of a symbol with gentle jazz music and mismatched 35C mark, while in winter, snow isn’t of Turkish culture. Afterwards, go for your artwork on the walls. The food, meanwhile, uncommon. Eid celebrations take place own spin around the surrounding streets, takes its cue from Turkey and beyond, with in spring and summer, during which admiring the eclectic architecture and classics including böreği (cheese or meat many businesses open sporadically browsing the wares in some of the antiques pastries) and pilafs and as well as pastas and and hotels fill up. shops — El Dorado or Genova Art & Antiques fresh fish mains. Afterwards, hit the buzzy are both full to the brim with period globes, bars around Mumhane Caddesi and Kiliç Ali MORE INFORMATION lamps and clocks as well as vintage signage. Paşa Mescidi — Nostalji Cafe offers board Istanbul Tour Studio. muze.gov.tr instagram.com/eldoradogalata games, hookah pipes and Turkish coffee until istanbultourstudio.com instagram.com/genova_auctions the small hours. karakoygumruk.com Hacı Bekir. hacibekir.com Mandabatmaz. mandabatmaz.com.tr İhsan Kurukahvecioğlu. ihsankurukahvecioglu.com HOW TO DO IT Pegasus Airlines flies direct from Stansted and Manchester from £89 one way. flypgs.com The Stay has three hotels in Istanbul, in the neighbourhoods of Bebek, Nişantaşı and Ortaköy, overlooking the Bosphorus. From £200, B&B. thestay.com.tr 15 4 NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/ TR AVEL

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CITY LIFE HANOI With atmospheric night markets, historic temples, sleek cocktail bars and an evolving culinary scene, Vietnam’s beguiling capital offers the perfect marriage of tradition and modernity WORDS: CHARLOT TE WIGR A M-EVANS PHOTOGR APHS: SL AWEK KOZDR AS 156 NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/ TR AVEL

It’s 8am and I’m wandering the streets of Hanoi’s Old Quarter. A dawn deluge has rinsed the roads clean, and already they’re a hive of activity. Roadside stalls are setting up with the sun, while commuters crisscross the city, weaving around each other in an intricate waltz of wheels. The air is warm and soupy, thick with the smell of sizzling meat and flowers fresh from the market. Above me, houses rise haphazardly. The history of the country is etched in their walls, the faded shutters and neoclassical balconies remnants of colonial rule. Between the mid-1800s and 1954, Vietnam was subjected to French control, though Hanoi’s newer buildings tell a more harrowing tale, constructed in the wake of the Vietnam War which, from 1955-75, saw thousands of bombs devastate the city. Surprisingly absent in this architectural timeline are modern shopping centres or Western restaurants. Instead, street vendors and pop-up kitchens feed the population. I pass schoolgirls wearing conical non-la hats, buying sweet, sticky rice from rickety wooden carts. And at a hole-in-the-wall eatery, I opt for a cha lua (boiled pork not too dissimilar to a Peperami, wrapped in a banana leaf) and munch in companionable silence among a gaggle of elderly gentlemen who are clearly regular patrons. But as my time in Vietnam’s capital goes on, subtle flashes of modernity make appearances. I wander into Gom Chi, a father-and-son ceramic shop, and spend an hour admiring funky, asymmetrical vases, before wistfully fingering the rows of pricey linen dresses from local designer Vi Thi Thu Trang at Indiehand. That evening, surrounded by smart professionals and minimalist artwork, I sit down to a tasting menu of astonishing variety at T.U.N.G Dining, which opened in 2018. The chef’s take on pho marries lightly seared beef from Kagoshima with a silky jelly in the place of broth; it melts on my tongue and carries a subtle hint of thyme. In the panna cotta, I can taste the nation’s penchant for condensed milk (you’ll find it in everything, from coffee to cake), though the flavour is understated, combined beautifully with sesame and vanilla. “We love tradition here,” my waiter explains, noticing my rapture, “and food is part of our soul, but there’s always room to mix things up a bit.” DECEMBER 2022 157

HANOI SEE & DO S T R E E T F O O D TO U R : Weave your way Clockwise from above: through the city’s Old Quarter with a guide A waiter crossing the WAT E R P U P P E T S H OW S : For over a thousand from Street Food Man and taste hearty bowls tracks on Train Street; years, villages in northern Vietnam have been of pho, deep-fried spring rolls and bahn mi fried turmeric catfish staging distinctive shows in which puppet sandwiches filled with barbecued pork, as well with vegetables at masters tell stories with lacquered wooden as local dishes like che troi nuoc (sticky ginger Flower Garden Hotel; dolls on a stage half-submerged in water. rice balls) or banh tra xan (buns filled with a pot plant by the ring Choose Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre melted chocolate). streetfoodman.com road, one of millions on for a musical Friday evening show, or visit the LO N G B I E N M A R K E T: Wander among the streets of Hanoi; workshop-cum-theatre of puppeteer Phan stacks of fruit and vegetables piled up to six water puppeteer Thanh Liem, who descends from a long line of feet high at the city’s main produce market, a Nguyen Thi Minh Loan puppet masters. thanglongwaterpuppet.com kaleidoscope of colours, sounds and smells. with a wooden dragon roinuocvietnam.com Having explored the seafood and flower puppet at her home H O C H I M I N H M AU S O L E U M : There are few sections, walk the length of adjacent Long Bien national figures more important than 20th- Bridge. This huge metal structure, designed by Previous pages: An century Vietnamese leader Ho Chi Gustave Eiffel, crosses the Red River and was outdoor bar in nightlife Minh, known to the locals as Uncle Ho. built in 1889 during French occupation. hotspot Beer Street The revolutionary statesman’s embalmed T E M P L E O F L I T E R AT U R E : If you only have body lies within a monumental marble time for one temple, make it this. Built in mausoleum surrounded by soldiers in white the 11th century, it housed Vietnam’s first uniforms. Go early to avoid long queues and university and today students flock here to be employ a local guide to bring his story to life. pictured in their graduation gowns. The two- bqllang.gov.vn acre site is home to gardens, courtyards and T R A I N S T R E E T: A narrow lane, built up central red pagoda. on both sides with a railway track running H OA LO P R I S O N : At the height of French rule through the middle, Train Street is a charming in the early 20th century, more than 3,600 and chaotic example of urban planning in prisoners were crammed into Hoa Lo Prison, Hanoi’s Old Quarter. Grab a pew in one of the a complex built in 1896 to hold around 450. many cocktail bars and wait for a hulking The harrowing conditions are documented on locomotive to screech past not two feet from English-language signs, as is the building’s where you’re sitting. Don’t trust timetables or use during the Vietnam War, when it housed rumours among tourists — just arrive early in US prisoners of war. hoalo.vn/en the evening and be prepared to wait. 158 NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/ TR AVEL

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City of lakes There are no fewer than 20 IMAGE: GETTY lakes within Hanoi’s confines, all offering cool respite from the humidity and chaos of the rest of the capital 160 NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/ TR AVEL

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HANOI IMAGE: AWL IMAGES Clockwise from top left: BUY E AT Street vendors in central Hanoi selling fresh- G OM C H I C E R A M I C S : From stoneware £ P H O C U O N : Locals rhapsodise about cut flowers, fruit and crockery to elegant vases, each improvised, Pho Cuon, so be sure to arrive with a healthy vegetables; woman in a hand-thrown piece in this shop-studio is appetite and start with the dish that gives traditional ao dai dress unique and informed by the owner’s lineage, this low-key restaurant its name. Similar to at Quan Thanh Temple, which can be traced back a century to rural a summer roll, pho cuon is made up of beef, one of many Taoist ceramists in the city’s southeast outskirts. coriander and cucumber wrapped in rice shrines; customers at the Nearby is Hanoi’s so-called ‘Ceramic Road’, paper and dunked in nuoccham (fish sauce Weekend Night Market; home to a four-mile mosaic depicting with papaya, garlic and chilli). phocuon.vn handmade ceramic Vietnam’s history. gomchi.com £ £ XO FA C A F E & B I S T RO : This hipster objects at the Gom Chi D O N G P H O N G A RT GA L L E RY: Almost cafe has the best cheesecake in Hanoi, served ceramic atelier in Gia every inch of this cavernous gallery displays in a plant-filled courtyard or inside on dark- Lam district lacquerware, an ancient Chinese art form that wood tables amid a maze of stylish armchairs flourished in Vietnam over the past century. inside. Try the coffee flavour, accompanied Previous pages: Aerial Resin from lacquer trees is used to coat items by a salted chocolate foam, and chase it down view across Hoan Kiem like wooden chests and serving trays, before with a rich, creamy Vietnamese coffee made Lake, at the centre of being painted and inlaid with fragments of with condensed milk. facebook.com/xofacafe Hanoi, at twilight mother of pearl. dongphongartgallery.com £ £ £ T. U . N .G D I N I N G : Head chef Hoang W E E K E N D N I G H T M A R K E T: This lively curates ornate and playful dishes at T.U.N.G, market starts from Hang Dao Street and runs a Vietnamese-European fusion restaurant north to the edge of Dong Xuan Market. Roads in the heart of Hanoi. Opt for the 18-course close at sunset on Friday for vendors to set up tasting menu; at £75 it’s good value and every their stalls. Expect children running riot with bite is a work of art, from toothfish on a bed candy floss, parents sipping beers on benches of seaweed to crisp, deep-fried pho noodles. and elderly couples salsa dancing in the street. The minimalist interior contrasts with the There are plenty of souvenirs to be found, too, expressive cooking and cocktails — just be sure from jewellery and lanterns to silk scarves. to book ahead. tungdining.com/home DECEMBER 2022 163

HANOI AFTER HOURS B E E R S T R E E T: A night out in Hanoi has to begin on Beer Street, a road lined with pop-up bars and plastic chairs. The music is loud, the atmosphere boisterous and a pint will cost you little more than 25p, so line your stomach with some nem ran (spring rolls) from the nearby street food stalls. For a bird’s-eye view of the revelry, head to Northern Soul, a three-floor bar with a sprawling roof terrace. facebook.com/northernsoulbar T H E B L AC K S H E E P : Decked out in black and bronze, the Black Sheep is a classy cocktail establishment that prides itself on performative mixology. Dim lighting, hidden corners and an extensive menu make it a popular date destination. On balmy evenings, take a seat in the garden out front — strung with yellow lanterns, it’s a great place to watch the world go by. facebook.com/theblacksheepcocktailtheatre 1 9 0 0 C LU B : This nightclub in the Old Quarter doesn’t close its doors until 7am. Expect an excellent (if slightly deafening) mix of electronic music and scantily clad performers executing dance routines on stage. An entry ticket includes a beer, and should you need a break, there are sofas on the second floor, as well as hookah pipes for hire. facebook.com/1900.tahien 16 4 NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/ TR AVEL

A family on a scooter weaving their way through the crowds of shoppers at the Weekend Night Market DECEMBER 2022 165

HANOI Tran Quoc Pagoda West Lake Hanoi Long Bien Market Botanical Garden Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum HANOI Old Thang Long Quarter Water Puppet Temple of Literature Theatre French Quarter HANOI Hoa Lo Prison VIETNAM 500 yards Afternoon meditation GETTING THERE & AROUND on top of the hill at Vietnam Airlines offers nonstop flights from Heathrow to Hanoi three times a Hanoi Botanical Garden week and indirect options daily. Other airlines offering one-stop services LIKE A LOCAL SLEEP include Emirates, British Airways and ILLUSTRATION: JOHN PLUMER Qatar Airways. vietnamairlines.com W E S T L A K E : Join locals in their morning £ F LOW E R GA R D E N H OT E L : This hotel emirates.com ba.com exercise along the shore of West Lake, Hanoi’s is relaxed, clean and comfortable, and just qatarairways.com largest and oldest body of water sprawling a 10-minute walk from the Old Quarter. The Average flight time: 12hrs north from the city centre. From sunrise, its highlight is the 14th floor, where views from Once you’re in the city itself, rickshaws shores play host to tai chi routines and gym the bar stretch right out across the city: you’ll are plentiful and cheap, as are taxis. If sessions, plus the 11-mile round trip also be able to spot Long Bien Bridge as well as you download one app before you go, passes several notable cultural landmarks, Tran Quoc Pagoda, blooming like a red lotus make sure it’s Grab. Vietnam’s version such as the Tran Quoc Pagoda. in the centre of West Lake. of Uber is cheap, reliable and easy to C O F F E E S T R E E T: Coffee beans are grown flowergardenhotel.com.vn use. grab.com in the central highlands of Vietnam, their £ £ H OT E L D E L’O P E R A : Occupying prime Alternatively, hire a bicycle from any distinct nutty flavour far surpassing brews real estate among the neoclassical mansions one of the numerous operators to see served up in the rest of Asia — at least in the of Hanoi’s French Quarter, Hotel de L’Opera’s the city at an even more leisurely pace. eyes of locals. Grab a cup in Coffee Street, a rooms are lavish, with velvet chairs, gilded Hanoi Bicycle Rental is one option narrow alley in the Old Quarter whose shops mirrors, plush beds and high-end toiletries. that’s centrally located and reliable. are devoted to all things caffeine. Tho Cafe, The hotel takes its name from the magnificent, facebook.com/hanoibicyclerental housed in a French villa with marble columns century-old Hanoi Opera House, which and vaulted ceilings, is a particularly striking is just a short walk away and still stages WHEN TO GO venue. facebook.com/cafetho performances today. hoteldelopera.com The best time to visit is from H A N O I B OTA N I C A L G A R D E N : A deep £ £ £ INTERCONTINENTAL WESTL AKE: November to April when Hanoi is dry reverence for nature underpins Vietnamese and pleasant, with temperatures society, evident in plant-filled homes, tree- Built out onto West Lake, InterContinental’s averaging 25C. Summer sees humid lined streets and perfectly manicured parks. setting is spectacular. Wander pathways highs of over 30C with heavy rainfall, Head to Hanoi Botanical Garden, the ‘green winding across the water or take a dip in but this does make Hanoi’s greenery lung’ of the city, set in the Ba Dinh district, to the outdoor pool fringed with ficus trees. A and surrounding rice paddies stroll among orchids, palms and sculptures. 15-minute walk takes you to Hanoi’s Flower particularly striking. Don’t leave without visiting the central temple, Market, where blooms are displayed across where Vietnam’s three dominant religions hundreds of stalls. Set your alarm for dawn to MORE INFO are evident in the Buddhist, Taoist and enjoy the early morning spectacle, then head Vietnam Travel. vietnam.travel Confucianist shrines. back to the hotel to sample the impressively Hanoi Tourism. tourism.hanoi.gov.vn varied breakfast buffet. ihg.com HOW TO DO IT Asia travel specialists InsideAsia Tours offers a 13-night ‘Vietnam’s greatest hits’ itinerary from £1,889 per person, which includes all accommodation, including a stay in Hanoi and a cruise on Ha Long Bay’s neighbouring Lan Ha Bay, transfers and internal travel, some private guiding and a range of cultural experiences. Excludes international flights. insideasiatours.com Vietnam Airlines flies directly and indirectly to Hanoi from Heathrow, starting from £675 return. vietnamairlines.com 166 NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/ TR AVEL



| PA I D CO NTE NT FO R D I SCOV E R ITA LY Outdoor trips Al fresco in Italy With new hiking and biking trails opening up and old favourites being rediscovered, it’s time to head outdoors — be it for an adventure or to relax. Words: Delle Chan I taly is nicknamed Bel Paese can be spotted along the 25-mile Alpine Ibex The country has set aside (Beautiful Country) for good Trail. Also celebrating its 100th birthday around £17 million to restore reason: from its dramatic peaks and in 2022 is the Abruzzo, Lazio and Molise the Roman-era Appian Way, coastline to Renaissance towns and National Park, which plays an important which ran for 360 miles from postcard-pretty drives, it’s hard to beat role in the conservation of the Italian wolf, Rome to Brindisi Italian alfresco living. And with a host Abruzzo chamois and Marsican brown bear. of openings and anniversaries to inspire new trips, options are never scarce. Over on the Italian Riviera in the region of Liguria, Cinque Terre’s famous Lovers’ One of the best ways to take in the Lane trail — closed for renovation since country’s rural heart is to hike stretches of 2012 following a landslide — is set to finally the Sentiero Italia Cai (Grand Italian Trail). reopen in 2023. Less than a mile long, the The world’s longest mountain path spans all footpath connects the fishing villages of of Italy’s 20 regions — from the Alps to the Riomaggiore and Manarola, but hikers ‘boot’ of Puglia, then across the isles. First can go on to complete the entire Sentiero conceptualised in the 1980s, this epic 4,359- Azzurro (Blue Trail), a seven-mile route that mile route was finally opened to hikers in links the string of five villages making up the its entirety in 2019, and from 2021 parts of Cinque Terre. What’s more, the country has it have been made accessible to mountain set aside €20 million (around £17 million) to bikers, too. A further 620-mile extention restore the Roman-era Appian Way, which is in the works; while the masterplan will ran for 360 miles from Rome to Brindisi. The take until 2033 to complete, the resulting project is in its early stages, but sections of Sentiero dei Parchi (Path of the Parks) will this superhighway — which was put forward connect all the country’s 25 national parks. as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2022 — are open to the public, including in the These include the Gran Paradiso National Park of the Appian Way in Rome. Park, Italy’s oldest, which celebrated its centenary in 2022. It sprawls some 173,000 If you prefer to get around on two wheels, acres around the eponymous mountain Garda by Bike, a continuous 87-mile cycle — the highest located entirely on Italian soil path circling Italy’s largest lake, is slated at 13,323ft. Dotted with 59 glaciers and 183 to be completed by 2026. A 1.2-mile section lakes, as well as streams and waterfalls, the on Lake Garda’s western shore is already park is home to the endangered ibex, which open to the public. Suspended 164ft above

| PA I D CO NTE NT FO R D I SCOV E R ITA LY IMAGES: GETTY water, the wood and steel pathway offers From left: Limone sul Garda, a town GRAND ITALIAN TRAIL cyclists and walkers views of the lake and on the eponymous lake in Northern Hiking matchmaker its surrounds. Food lovers can also pedal Italy; Santo Stefano di Sessanio, a along the Cammino del Bardolino, a 60-mile medieval village in the Gran Sasso Hiking is experiencing a renaissance in hiking and cycling trail opened in 2020 on and Monti della Laga National Park Italy — and the reaches of this freshly the eastern bank of the lake. Known as the revived trail are its new masterpieces Riviera of Olives, this shore has for centuries been home to olive groves and vineyards, THE ITALIAN CLASSIC and the new path — divided into 18 stretches BEST FOR: INCREDIBLE VIEWS of varying length — encourages visitors to The Campania region of southwestern discover its history and flavours. Italy has long been a lure for visitors, thanks in part to the beauty of the Amalfi Looking for something more relaxing? Coast. The rocky ridges that form the The Tuscan spa resort of Montecatini Terme backbone of the Sorrentine Peninsula, was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage where the famous coastline is located, Site in 2021, putting the country’s storied provide exhilarating hiking — as well wellness culture and outdoor thermal baths as the chance to experience this Italian back in the limelight. Built around spring classic from a different perspective. The waters, the art nouveau town is one of 11 paths around the hilltop hamlet of Colli European destinations recognised as ‘Great di Fontanelle offer panoramic views Spa Towns of Europe’ for bearing testimony across the cliffside village of Positano and to the continent’s 18th- and 19th-century its bay to the storied Li Galli archipelago. spa phenomenon. Elsewhere, the northern city of Bologna has new guided tours to THE BEST-KEPT SECRET discover its 25 miles of city-centre porticos, BEST FOR: HIDDEN GEMS another 2021 addition to the UNESCO The southern region of Molise has World Heritage List. In a destination most become known, ironically, for its relative famous for its traditional cuisine — lasagne, obscurity — a destination so unexplored tortellini (hand-twisted pasta) and meat- even Italians joke it doesn’t exist. But based spaghetti al ragù — the recognition head to this diminutive destination brings much-deserved attention to one of and you’ll find sandy beaches, historic Italy’s most iconic urban landscapes. settlements and a slower way of life. Seven stages of the Grand Italian Trail wind through its small massifs, where villages are still connected by tratturi, ancient pastoral highways for the seasonal movement of animals. Highlights include the stretch from Bojano to San Marco for easy hiking, bucolic beauty and the remains of Roman settlement Altilia-Saepinum. THE HIGH POINT BEST FOR: EXPERIENCED HIKERS Several stages of the Grand Italian Trail traverse the Apennine Mountains, Italy’s backbone. The highest massif of the range, Gran Sasso is a definite highlight. Here, summertime wildflower meadows and grass pastures give way to walls of limestone and dolomite, with the Corno Grande peak reaching its apex at 9,555ft. The route from Pietracamela, a town in the Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga National Park, to the Rifugio Duca degli Abruzzi hut summits the peak. Although suitable for experienced hikers only, the views in every direction are worth the challenge. ANNIE BROOKSTONE SEE MORE ONLINE AT NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/ TR AVEL

| PA I D CO NTE NT FO R D I SCOV E R ITA LY Marmore Falls Down the rapids Centuries-old history and arresting landscapes are all on offer at one of Europe’s highest waterfalls. Words: Rebecca Ann Hughes “F orward… stop! Forward… The starting point of today’s rafting Much of the water from the Velino River brace!” shouts rafting experience, offered by local outfitter is now rerouted into a hydroelectric plant, instructor Ronny as we Rafting Marmore, is beneath the last of meaning the falls are, most of the time, careen towards the seething the waterfall’s three tiers, right beside the nothing more than a gentle stream. But to rapids. Only minutes ago, he’s had to berate thundering cascade. These giant steps the delight of visitors and thrill-seekers our team of four for lack of coordination. But are carved out of a densely forested cliff alike, twice a day the entire waterway is once now, we’re like a well-oiled machine. Boot- face, where mist hovers fog-like among the again directed to plummet over the cliff. camp style, Ronny barks out instructions canopy. It surges over the railings, so that and we respond instantaneously, plunging we’re wet before we even reach the water. When in full flow, the pounding water is our paddles into the water to power forward, a sublime spectacle. This makes paddling then leaping to one side to avoid capsizing. As with our paddling, the experience itself strenuous, but the effort is rewarded by has to be perfectly timed, coinciding with sudden plunges over rapids, which fling We’re navigating the torrents that rush the ‘turning on’ of the waterfall. Despite water into our faces and make us grip the downstream from the Marmore Falls, one of seeming like a great wonder of nature, this raft for fear of being jolted overboard. By the Europe’s highest waterfalls. They’re found 541ft cascade has been controlled by man time we’ve finished, my arms ache, but I find in the central region of Umbria, dubbed ever since its inception in 271 BC. At the time, myself wanting more of the rush. Italy’s green heart: with just under 900,000 the Velino River would flood the hills above inhabitants and a couple of modest-sized the local town of Rieti, spawning marshy, Later that day, I follow a hiking trail cities, it’s dominated by verdant hills that stagnant areas of water full of malaria- around the falls. I stop en route at the Lovers’ roll as far as the eye can see. It’s heaven for bearing mosquitoes. To solve the issue, a Balcony, a terrace so close to the cascade hiking and cycling, but here in the Nerina Roman consul ordered the construction of that I’m buffeted by spray carried up by the Valley, where the falls are fed by the Velino a canal to channel the water off a cliff. The wind. I reach the higher viewing platform, River and plummet down a cliff into the Marmore Falls were born — a 2,000-year-old up some 600 steps. At the top of the falls, I’m Nera River below, water takes centre stage. testament to human ingenuity. rewarded with a dazzling rainbow; not even the Romans could have manufactured this.

IMAGES: GETTY; ALAMY | PA I D CO NTE NT FO R D I SCOV E R ITA LY TREMITI ISLANDS Underwater wonders This southern five-island archipelago offers a Robinson Crusoe-style escape WHY GO Part of the Gargano National Park, the selling point of the Tremiti Islands is splendid isolation. Marooned off the coast of Puglia, the main island of San Domino is best outfitted for visitors. Its little brother San Nicola is the historical centre, with a fortress-like town. Cretaccio and Capraia welcome snorkellers only, while Pianosa sits further afield, shipwrecked halfway to Croatia. WHAT TO SEE At the sole village on San Domino, join locals for a round-the-island stroll. Below the path, coves are ripe for sunbathing: aside from the main sandy swoosh of Cala delle Arene, beaches here host no bars or shops — and often, nobody at all. In times gone by, locals would swim 655 feet across to San Nicola. Today, a local fishing boat will swish you across to the 13th-century Castello dei Badiali, a lookout point for all five islands. There’s also a former monastery, which is 1,000 years old and hosts spellbinding mosaics. WHAT TO DO The Tremiti’s kaleidoscope of sea life is scattered across 30 significant dive sites, all part of a protected matrine zone. Start with a glass-bottomed boat excursion. Pianosa is too far out, but most tours take in uninhabited Cretaccio and Capraia; keep an eye out for the submerged statue of saint Padre Pio. With a local scuba operator, divers can navigate armies of lobsters and shoals of scorpionfish. Sea life is particularly apparent along the southern coast of San Domino and the exposed north coast of Capraia. Deeper, below forests of gorgonia fans, expert divers can find a forest of the even rarer antipathes subpinnata, or black coral — one of the largest in the Mediterranean. Clockwise from left: view of the Marmore Falls, Umbria; Tremiti Islands, Puglia; a small tub gurnard in the Adriatic Sea; the seafloor of the Tremiti Islands SEE MORE ONLINE AT NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/ TR AVEL

| PA I D CO NTE NT FO R D I SCOV E R ITA LY Trentino and South Tyrol Four relaxing activities Beyond the alpine trifecta of skiing, hiking and rock climbing, this mountainous northern region champions a culture that’s all about slowing down — often far off the beaten trail. Words: Lane Nieset 1 FORAGE FOR A LOCAL FEAST 3 STARGAZE IN CLEAR SKIES Autumn is foraging season in the region The Dolomites glow lavender and rose — you’ll find porcini, chanterelles and at dusk, but once the sun sets, the celestial honey mushrooms sprouting near trees and show continues above villages like Ossana. among the fallen leaves and bushes. One Certified by Astronomitaly (the first project of the easiest wooded areas to access is Val to promote ‘astrotourism’ in the country), it’s di Fiemme, where a trail takes mushroom- home to one of the peninsula’s clearest night hunters through meadows, over bridges and skies, and local tour operators offer guided past waterfalls (visit the local tourist offices dusk treks to prime spots for marvelling at to get foraging advice and local permits). If the Milky Way. Over in the Elga Valley, in you prefer to let the experts lead the way, go and above the villages of Collipietra and San mushrooming in the summer with a guide Valentino in Campo, Sternendorf aims to be in Val di Sole, learning how to carefully and Europe’s first ‘astrovillage’ — a science park safely forage in the forest before cooking up complete with a planetarium, observatories, your finds in a classic, creamy risotto. themed hotels and astrological events. 2 UNWIND WITH FOREST BATHING 4 GOLF AT HIGH ALTITUDE From left to right: Alpe di Siusi, IMAGES: GETTY; ALAMY Going for a meditative stroll in the forest, For golf enthusiasts, now’s the prime Trentino and South Tyrol; Terme taking in the scents, sounds and sights time to start planning a trip to Italy, with Tettuccio in Montecatini Terme, of every step, is intended to reduce stress Rome poised to host the Ryder Cup in Tuscany; Bagno Vignoni in Val and help you re-energise. Beech forests are 2023. Trentino and South Tyrol offer 12 golf d’Orcia, Tuscany thought to be among the best locations to courses, fit for beginners and experienced practise forest bathing, with beech leaves golfers alike, some at an altitude of over and bark having been shown to release 3,000ft. The nine-hole Golf Club Madonna high quantities of aromatic substances and di Campiglio is one of the highest courses essential oils. In the Fai della Paganella in Europe, surrounded by the Aramello- commune, this has led to the establishment Brenta Nature Park with the Dolomites as of Parco del Respiro (Breathing Park), with a backdrop. Tesino Golf Club La Farfalla, four dedicated trails through beech, spruce, meanwhile, is a truly mountainous link: Scots pine and larch trees. Alternatively, sprawling on and around the hill of Coldanè, numerous hotels incorporate forest bathing the only human intervention here has been into their wellness programmes. designing the greens and teeing grounds. SEE MORE ONLINE AT NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/ TR AVEL

| PA I D CO NTE NT FO R D I SCOV E R ITA LY THERMAL BATHS BAGNO VIGNONI MONTECATINI TERME Centuries of wellness ROMAN-TIME WELLNESS THE GREAT MODERN SPA TOWN Sojourn through the country’s spa history via three of its most famous thermal baths No discussion about spa culture in the country In the late 1700s, public bathing came back is complete without mentioning the Romans, into vogue, but more for medicinal purposes. NITRODI who expanded the use of thermal baths as The town leading the revival was Montecatini ONE OF THE OLDEST IN EUROPE a communal activity. Almost every Roman Terme in the heart of northern Tuscany; thanks Italy has an abundance of hot springs that city had a bathhouse, some large enough to to the vision and patronage of Grand Duke can be traced back well before the rise of welcome several thousand bathers, who’d Leopold, it built a number of spas around Rome; these steaming pools are heated by come together, relax and socialise. When its thermal springs. The largest and most geothermic forces deep within the earth. One the empire collapsed, they gradually fell into beautiful was Terme Tettuccio, which is still in of the earliest examples are thought to be disrepair, and not a single one is still in use use today and where treatments are based on Nitrodi on the island of Ischia, in the Bay of today. But travellers can still do as the Romans hydroponic therapy (water drinking). Visitors Naples. The Greeks were the first to identify did by heading a couple of hours north to the can taste the famous waters of Montecatini, all these thermal waters’ curative properties, Tuscan hot springs in Bagno Vignoni. Located said to do wonders for the liver and digestive and 3,000 years on, they remain a favourite along the Via Francigena pilgrim route, this system. Guided tours are also offered of the wellness hub. Other places to soak across the tiny hamlet became a charming stop-off grounds, where marble pavilions sit among island include Sorgeto Bay, where hot water for weary travellers — as well as a resort for manicured gardens. Inside, walls are adorned gushes directly into the sea. After descending moneyed Italians. They would swim in the with splendid murals by Galileo Chini, the some 200 steps to shore, bathers are pool that fills the main Renaissance-era piazza, father of Italian art nouveau. In fact, it’s the rewarded with rocky pools of varying sizes and which remains unique and unchanged to this combination of spas, art and architecture that temperatures, all set within a pretty cove. day. Sadly, it’s no longer suitable for swimming, earned Montecatini a place on the UNESCO but the warm waters can be enjoyed at nearby World Heritage List in 2021 as one of the Great Parco Dei Mulini (Park of the Mills). Spa Towns of Europe. SAMANTHA LEWIS

| PA I D CO NTE NT FO R D I SCOV E R ITA LY FA E N Z A IMAGES: ALAMY Motor Valley CENTURIES OF CERAMIC ART On the road For more than 1,000 years, the clay soils deposited by the winding Lamone River have Emilia-Romagna is the hub of the country’s automotive sustained the production of fine ceramics, industry, but finely crafted sports cars aren’t the northern a tradition mostly centred around Faenza, on region’s only artisanal offering. Words: Elizabeth Heath the eastern end of the Via Emilia. The small town, with Roman origins and Renaissance I n Emilia-Romagna, history and culture are laid flair, has long been a leading manufacturer out in a straight line along the Via Emilia. Built of maiolica — tin-glazed pottery decorated when the Romans conquered the Padan Plain, the with colourful, intricate designs. consular road served as the artery along which new cities formed and old centres prospered. Two millennia It was during the Renaissance that this art later, it remains virtually unchanged, running the length form, also known as faïence, reached its peak, of the region from the Adriatic Coast to the Po Valley. and its centuries-old techniques have been passed down through generations inside It’s perhaps fitting, then, for this road to have become the Faenza’s storied workshops. You’ll find more cradle of the country’s automotive industry. A hotspot of than 60 in and around the town centre, with car manufacturers, international racing tracks and private retail showrooms to watch artisans at work collections, Italy’s Motor Valley has orbited around the and purchase handmade plates, mugs and local city of Modena for over a century. Far from being only tureens. For more in-depth insights into the a centre of four-wheeled pride, the area delivers the same story of faïence, the International Museum standard of craftmanship to all its endeavours, be it cuisine, of Ceramic showcases one of the world’s art or fashion. We pick some of the top towns and cities to most comprehensive ceramic collections. discover on a road trip along the Via Emilia. BOLOGNA ITALY’S FOOD CAPITAL From Faenza, it’s less than an hour’s drive to Bologna, Emilia-Romagna’s red-hued ‘capital’ — as well as the epicentre of Italy’s world-famous cuisine. This gastronomic prestige has earned this city the moniker of La Grassa (The Fat), a nod to its hearty fare, with tortellini in brodo (hand-twisted pasta in broth), tagliatelle al ragù (a meat-based sauce) and abundant taglieri (platters of locally produced cheeses and cured meats) all featuring on the menu. Bologna’s Old Centre, with its tangled web of streets and porticoes — the latter listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site — holds a trove of artisanal food shops, too: look out for mortadella sausages, crescenta focaccia and torta di riso (spiced rice cake). MODENA FAST CARS AND SLOW PRODUCTIONS Further north, Modena anchors the Motor Valley with some of the most legendary names on the circuit — a tradition rooted in the city’s coachbuilding heritage. After businessman Alfieri Maserati picked the area as the base for his namesake car company, Ferrari, Lamborghini, Ducati and more followed, giving speed to what would become one of the world’s highest concentrations of top-rate car manufacturers, training centres, racing tracks and more. Ogle vintage models at the Ferrari Museum, the Umberto Panini Collection, the Stanguellini Museum or the Maserati showroom, where car aficionados can also go backstage at the production factory. If you’re here during the Motor Valley Fest, you might see master restorers at work. For

| PA I D CO NTE NT FO R D I SCOV E R ITA LY a high-end souvenir, Schedoni has been Left to right: the iconic red MUSEUM OF URBAN ART crafting bespoke luggage for luxury cars for rooftops of Bologna, Emilia- Open-air culture decades. And for high-octane fun, try your Romagna; an artisanal shop hand at manoeuvring a racing car at the in Bologna’s historic centre Edoardo di Mauro, director at the first Modena Autodrome.  permanent open-air museum in a major Italian city, tells us about the project PA R M A FOOD, FASHION AND FRESCOES  HOW DID THE MUSEUM START? Spend even a short amount of time in Parma, Turin’s Museum of Urban Art (MAU) was the last leg of the trip, and you’ll notice born in 1995, when local art operators its style, with a baroque tower, a frescoed were asked to use contemporary art Romanesque cathedral and a world- for the regeneration of the Borgo renowned opera house easily warranting Campidoglio neighbourhood. It started a day’s sightseeing. The same eye for detail from the bottom up, with some locals extends to its fashion scene: in a region home saying they’d be willing to host murals on to design houses like Armani and MaxMara, their houses. This allowed us to maintain many of whom still have headquarters and public control of the project and prevent factories here, small-production sartorial the works from being painted over. traditions hold strong in this compact city. WHAT DOES IT LOOK LIKE NOW? In the city centre, the tailors at Camiceria We have over 190 permanent works in Zanini make each men’s shirt by hand, while Borgo Campidoglio and around 150 more Locale Parma creates made-to-order fashion in other areas in Turin and around the for everyone. One of Parma’s most beloved province. We have an exhibition space, historical figures, Marie Louise of Austria and engage in many social inclusion and is remembered at Violetta Di Parma Borsari, destination marketing events. which sells violet perfume — her signature scent — and perfumed and flavoured gifts. WHAT ARE MAU’S AIMS? To help people rediscover a vocation for For more information, visit italia.it/en the arts. Bringing it out of its traditional contexts, such as galleries and museums, makes it more accessible. It helps people see that contemporary art, if borne out of genuine conversations, can be an occasion for authentic cultural growth. HOW CAN URBAN ART HELP IN URBAN REGENERATION PROJECTS? Look at Borgo Campidoglio: through art, we’ve helped people discover a historical working-class area — not only visitors from Italy but from abroad, too, as proved by the many requests for tours we keep receiving. museoarteurbana.it SEE MORE ONLINE AT NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/ TR AVEL

TR AVEL TALK ASK THE EXPERTS NEED ADVICE FOR YOUR NE X T TRIP ? ARE YOU AF TER RECOM MENDATION S, TIPS AND GUIDANCE? OUR EXPERTS HAVE THE ANSWERS… THE EXPERTS Tamsin Wressell Travel writer Simon Ingram UK online editor, National Geographic Marisa Cannon Business and travel journalist Playa Carrizalillo, near Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca, Mexico Julia Buckley I’ve been to eastern Mexico June is the best time to visit, when international and domestic flights, Travel writer but would like to explore the there’s little rain and fewer tourists all accommodation and car hire. Pacific coast. Where would than during the winter high season. From £5,995. audleytravel.com you recommend? IMAGES: GETTY. ALL RATES QUOTED ARE FOR STANDARD DOUBLES, ROOM ONLY The west of Mexico is spectacularly It’d be hard to try and fit the Further down the coast, Oaxaca diverse, where mountainous entire coastline into a single trip, is known for its mezcal, mole sauce landscapes give way to lush forests, so I’d recommend zoning in on and chocolate, and there are mangroves and lagoons. It’s a one state, instead. With its deserts markets, mountain villages and magnet for surfers, and the marine and marine life, Baja California a beautiful coastline to explore. life here is rich and varied, too — is a good option. Audley Travel Original Travel’s Oaxaca and the it’s on this coastline, in places like has a 14-day self-drive tour of the Pacific Coast tour takes in Mexico Puerto Vallarta and Mazatlan, that state, which starts with a few days City before heading down to the sea turtles nest each year between in Mexico City (be sure to seek surf spot of Puerto Escondido. June and November. Travel out some classic tacos al pastor Stops include Puebla, Monte between June and September, while here) before a flight to La Alban and Oaxaca City — home to meanwhile, and you might be Paz. Here you can explore the lavish churches, mezcal bars and able to spot the bioluminescent region at your leisure: highlights centuries of Indigenous heritage. plankton in Manialtepec Lagoon, include a trip to Isla Espíritu Santo The 13-day tour is tailor-made near Puerto Escondido, while to spot seabirds; the 17th-century and costs from £5,500 per person, whale-watching season is at its mission church in Loreto; and the including flights, transfers, car peak between December and galleries of Todos Santos. Whale- hire, accommodation and all March. Generally, however, April to watching tours are also high on tours. originaltravel.co.uk the agenda. The package includes TAMSIN WRESSELL 176 NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/ TR AVEL

What do I need to consider to good awareness of avoiding and enjoy winter terrain. snow hazards like avalanches Alternatively, hire an instructor stay safe while hiking in the (yes, they can happen in the to learn the basics; you’ll be UK, too) and have the kit and introduced to the likes of UK’s mountains this winter? experience to negotiate frozen crampons and ice axes as well On the highest peaks, ice and ground safely. as pick up plenty of useful snow can appear in October tips. mountaineering.scot and lie until May, with even That said, the colder mountain-training.org smaller hills in the Lake months can be a wonderful District and Snowdonia still time to hike, so the answer is Of course, be sure to pack icy long well into spring. The to learn new skills. The British spare gloves, a warm hat and heat-sapping ‘wet’ cold and Mountaineering Council has headtorch, and familiarise tendency for the weather to a YouTube playlist on winter yourself with the Met Office’s change quickly can make the walking, while in-person mountain weather forecasts, UK pretty formidable in winter. programmes like the Winter or the Mountain Weather Skills Training Course by Information Service (MWIS). As you can’t see paths Mountaineering Scotland metoffice.gov.uk mwis.org.uk when they’re covered in snow, will teach you how to handle your navigation needs to SIMON INGRAM be sharper. You also need a I’m heading to the US for used abroad. It’s worth the best option for overseas I’m planning a budget weekend remembering that the benefit spending because they don’t Christmas. What’s the best of using a credit card overseas usually charge fees for foreign in Paris. Do you recommend any is the protection they provide exchange or cash withdrawals way of spending: credit, against fraud, theft, or if the and often offer competitive hotels for under €100 a night? vendor fails to deliver or goes exchange rates. Revolut’s card This is tricky. Finding a decent debit or prepaid card? bust, plus insurance on travel is free and uses the interbank hotel for under €150 (£131) is Credit cards are widely used in delays and lost luggage. (the most competitive) doable, but for something slick the US, and you’ll find plenty exchange rate if you change under €100 (£88), look outside the of vendors that accept Visa, Much of the same applies money between Monday to centre — perhaps to The Mob Hotel Mastercard and American when using debit cards in the Friday. You’ll only be charged a in the Saint-Ouen district, due Express. But expect to be US — watch out for fees on fee if you withdraw more than north of Montmartre. Saint-Ouen hit by foreign transaction foreign transactions or when £200 per month. Wise’s card, is home to a famous flea market fees of up to 3%, exchange withdrawing cash. One of the however, uses the interbank so vast that it houses 14 separate rate mark-ups, as well as cash main risks is that if your debit exchange rate, plus a 0.35% markets within it, but this hotel is withdrawal charges for the card is stolen, it’s the amount fee every day of the week, no fleapit. The fun rooms are full privilege. More travel-friendly in your account that’s at stake and allows two fee-free cash of details from feature wallpaper options do exist — Barclaycard rather than just the credit limit. withdrawals of up to £200 each to the theatrical scarlet curtains Rewards and Santander All in month. M A R I SA C A N N O N behind the bed — and there’s a One credit cards, for instance, Prepaid cards such as buzzing outdoor yard, too. From don’t charge transaction Revolut or Wise are probably €99 (£86). mobhotel.com or withdrawal fees when Next up is Hotel Max, in the 14th arrondissement south of the Catacombs. This punches above its price range, with colourful murals on the walls, Scandi-style furniture and a sweet, top-floor terrace overlooking the Haussmann- planned neighbourhood. From €99 (£86). hotel-max.fr Finally, look for budget chains like Generator, CitizenM and even Ibis, which is fairly chic in Paris. My top pick would be Mama Shelter La Défense, which opened in March 2022, just five Métro stops west of the Arc de Triomphe and the Champs-Élysées. There’s a space theme — think galaxy-streaked carpets in the bedrooms and moon-spattered ceilings in the public areas — and you can reach for the stars from the rooftop restaurant, which even offers glimpses of the Eiffel Tower. From €99 (£86). mamashelter.com JULIA BUCKLEY DECEMBER 2022 177

TR AVEL TALK THE INFO Airships A NEW GENER ATION OF HYBRID AIR VEHICLES COULD SOON BE RE ADY FOR TAKEOFF. WE TAKE A LOOK AT WHAT IT MIGHT ME AN FOR TR AVEL Bedford-based Hybrid Air Vehicles (HAV) is working Airships: a timeline on the production of the Airlander 10 — a modern reinterpretation of the classic airship, held aloft by The past helium and powered by electricity. With a total capacity In the early 20th century, airships were of 100 passengers, it could revolutionise air travel at the forefront of air travel due to their cost effectiveness and long range. But the infamous explosion of the Hindenburg in 1937 brought an end to the era of passenger blimps The present Today, airships are far less popular as a mode of transport and more well known for being used in advertising — most famously for US tyre manufacturer Goodyear — as well as for aerial broadcasting and military purposes The future Earlier this year, Spanish airline Air Nostrum bought 10 Airlander 10 airships to use as passenger vehicles, with delivery scheduled for 2026. It’s the first such commercial order in modern times SWEDISH COMPANY OCEANSKY Before the 1937 disaster, the Hindenburg THE AIRL ANDER 10 I S BU ILT TO CRUI SES I S IN TALKS WITH HAV was arguably the most luxurious aircraft ever FLY FO R U P TO FIV E DAYS A N D TO OFFER AIRSHIP EXPEDITIONS made, with lounges, private cabins, a cocktail RESIST HARSH TEMPER ATURES TO THE ARCTIC FROM 2024 bar and even promenades on its decks AND LIGHTNING STRIKES FIVE ADVANTAGES OF THE AIRLANDER 10 IMAGES: GETTY; ALAMY. WORDS: ANGELA LOCATELLI GREENER SKIES DIRECT ACCESS BIRD’S-EYE VIEWS HIGH COMFORT NEW ROUTES HAV claims the Airships don’t need a As it plans to operate The Airlander is HAV plans to link cities Airlander 10 will runway for take-off or at altitudes of around designed to be a low- just a few hundred create 90% fewer landing — waterfronts, 10,000ft, Airlander 10 noise, low-vibration, carbon emissions than greenfield sites and wouldn’t need to be low-turbulence aircraft, miles apart. Proposed aeroplanes and plans to underutilised airports pressurised, making with a more spacious routes include Liverpool turn it into the first zero- are all being considered way for floor-to-ceiling cabin and interior than emissions large aircraft as start and end points windows on its sides in conventional planes to Belfast and Oslo to Stockholm, with similar fares to standard rail Sources: bbc.co.uk cnbc.com citymonitor.ai edition.cnn.com euronews.com hybridairvehicles.com wsj.com oceanskycruises.com sciencefocus.com 178 NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/ TR AVEL

TR AVEL TALK HOT TOPIC IS IT OVER FOR NEW YORK’S HORSE-DR AWN CARRIAGES? A video of a Central Park carriage horse collapsing has reignited a row over animal welfare. As campaigners demand change, what might the future hold? Central Park’s old-fashioned horse- drawn carriages are intrinsic to the romance of New York. A ride through the tree-lined boulevards, with a top-hatted driver at the reins, ranks among the city’s most in-demand tourism experiences. But with reported traffic incidents and recent viral videos of horses collapsing, these attractions have now become controversial. With a bill to ban them on the table, will the Big Apple’s horse-drawn carriages be put out to pasture? How long have the carriages been York voters were in favour of dubious to non-existent welfare drivers. “They thought they were in New York? banning them. They’re still highly standards, Central Park carriage going to lose the charm of the Horse-drawn carriages have been popular with tourists, however — horses are protected by New York horse and carriage,” he says. “They in Central Park since it first opened New York’s carriage horse industry City regulations, says the union. actually feel it’s a better ride now in 1858; designer Frederick Law is worth around $15m (£13.5m) These include not working at — and more lucrative for them.” Olmsted created the pathways annually and Central Park carriage temperatures above 32C or below so carriages could animate the rides rank as the city’s number-one -7C, a maximum of nine hours’ work What’s next? landscape for visitors. Their outdoor activity on TripAdvisor. a day, regular vet checks and five In September, the Transport popularity grew after the Second weeks’ annual rest. Workers Union proposed welfare World War, and thousands of tourist Is it a case of animal welfare or changes, including more water journeys are now made annually animal rights? Drivers also point to a lack of troughs, hitching posts and stables in the 68 licensed carriages that Advocates of working horses insist understanding of the nature of in the park. However, opponents operate within the park’s perimeter. there’s a distinction between ideas horses. “People have this idea that have dismissed the requests as of animal welfare and animal rights horses should be running free,” ‘damage control’. For them, horse- What ignited calls for a ban? in the debate. “The welfare of says Christina. “Horses like routine drawn carriages simply have no The carriages have been a political these horses is fine,” says Christina and they like being carriage place on a modern city’s tourist flashpoint for years — in 2014, a ban Hansen, spokesperson and chief horses because they get to walk agenda. Christina remains convinced initiative by ex-mayor Bill de Blasio shop steward for the Transport miles, eat lots of food and hang out horses will still be in the park 50 failed, and in July 2022, councilman Workers Union Local 100, which with their friends.” years from now, while Holden is Robert Holden introduced represents many of the carriage optimistic he’ll get the support he legislation to remove them. drivers. “Of course, the Ryder Are there less controversial needs to sponsor his e-carriages Calls were further amplified incident went viral — the video is alternatives? bill. For the councilman, the future is in August, when a video went viral very upsetting. But horses do get Councilman Holden is pushing equine free. “Electric carriages are of an elderly, 26-year-old horse sick and he’s not representative of for horse-drawn carriages to be just as charming, cheaper and you named Ryder collapsing in the all 216 licensed carriage horses.” replaced by electric ones by 2024. don’t have to abuse an animal,” he street on his way to Central Park. His inspiration is the Mexican city says. “We’re not in 1822 — this is 2022 Ryder’s fall was not the first such Unlike other tourist horse of Guadalajara, where the change and we have the technology to do incident: in 2020, a 12-year-old and carriage operations around was implemented successfully in it.” A N N A M E LV I L L E - JA M E S mare named Aisha collapsed and the world, many of which have 2017, despite initial pushback from was eventually euthanised. Traffic incidents are also reported every year as horses make their way through Hell’s Kitchen from the stables outside the park. How popular are they? A recent poll by the Animal Legal Defense Fund found 71% of New DECEMBER 2022 179

| PAID CONTENT FOR VISIT TRINIDAD TRINIDAD 1 ATTEND CARNIVAL Low rolling drumming will shake the Five island highlights streets in Port of Spain. Vibrant colours will whirl past as dancers march, twist and spin. From your base in the capital, Port of Spain, here are five ways Street by street, thousands gather across to eat, dance and explore your way around the southernmost the capital. Carnival, the biggest party in island in the Caribbean. Words: SJ Armstrong the Caribbean, is underway in Trinidad. A final bout of unfettered exuberance before the solemnity of Lent, the late February festivities simply mustn’t be missed. 2 TASTE THE DIVERSITY Home to a blended culture born of its diverse communities, there’s no better way to understand Trinidad than through its cuisine. Stop for sweet, smoky, spicy stews, reminiscent of West Africa. For fragrant, Indian style chickpea snacks. Or for sizzling Chinese hot pots, Arab kebabs or Creole seafoods bursting with flavour. 3 EXPERIENCE NATURAL WONDERS Being a unique confluence of Caribbean and South American ecosystems, the wildlife here is abundant, and rare. Flocks of scarlet ibis flame across the blue sky, crimson over the Caroni Swamp. Travellers wait, watching for the forest’s flurries of life as ocelots prowl and Guyanan red howler monkeys shriek. 4 RELAX ON CARIBBEAN BEACHES Soft winds sweep Caribbean sands around the forest-fringed beaches that surround the island. Travel just an hour from the capital, over the exhilarating heights of the Andean Range, to stretch out under floating palms on the idyllic beach at Maracas Bay. There, try a local favourite — deep-fried shark. 5 CATCH A CRICKET MATCH The cricket scores sputter from every taxi radio, from every cafe television — it’s a national passion in Trinidad. Following in the footsteps of the island’s most famous cricketer, Brian Lara, players flock to train in Trinidad’s state-of-the-art facilities. Take to the stands at the Queen’s Park Oval, to experience the excitement of a live game. PLAN YOUR TRIP IMAGES: ALAMY Visit January through May to avoid the rainy season. There are direct flights to Port of Spain from Heathrow. visittrinidad.tt

IMAGE: GETTY IN THE NEXT ISSUE NEW ZEALAND New Zealand’s epic experiences have never looked more enticing. In our next issue, we embrace the great outdoors with high-octane adventures, wildlife safaris and meaningful encounters with Māori culture PLU S // A M S TERDA M , ATL ANTA , BAN G KO K , BAYO N N E, B H U TAN , BRUGES, DORSET, I SR AEL, KER AL A , MONTENEGRO & MORE JAN/FEB 2023 ISSUE ON SALE 1 DECEMBER 2022 FOR MORE INFOR M ATION ON OUR SUB SCRIPTION OFFER, SEE PAGE 182 DECEMBER 2022 181

SUBSCRIBE & RECEIVE A IMAGE: GETTY C OMP L I MEN TA RY HYD RO F L ASK ++ JUST £25! GIVE A SIX-MONTH GIFT SUBSCRIPTION AND RECEIVE: • Five issues of National Geographic Traveller • Two issues of Food by National Geographic Traveller • A complimentary Hydro Flask 21oz bottle from the Limited Edition Horizon Collection, from one of four striking designs SU B SCRIB E VIA S U B SC RI P TI O N S . N ATG E OTR AV E LLE R .C O.U K AND U SE CODE DXMAS22 OR CALL 01858 438787 AND QUOTE CODE DXMAS22 T&Cs: Closing date for orders is 1 December 2022. The price shown is a UK Direct Debit offer. If paying by credit card, the price is £35 including the Hydro Flask. Your subscription will begin with the next available issue or if a gift subscription is selected, the subscription will begin with the first issue after Christmas (March 2023, published 3 February). If you do not cancel at the end of that period, the subscription will auto-renew as follows by Direct Debit; five issues at £25 renewing at £30 thereafter. The Hydro Flask is subject to availability and for UK subscribers only. Please allow up to four weeks for delivery of the Hydro Flask. This is a limited offer and may be withdrawn at any time. All subscriptions are non-refundable. Overseas and donor subscriptions are also available, payable by credit card. An annual bundle subscription to Europe is £56. An annual bundle subscription to the rest of the world is £60. Please note: by subscribing, you agree that we may contact you about your subscription from time to time. National Geographic Traveller (UK) is published 10 times a year, with double issues in Jan/Feb and Jul/Aug. Subscribers will receive seven issues in every six-month period.

| PA I D CO NTE NT FO R IT S ITA LY ITALY Slow touring Le Marche With its cliff-hugging hill towns and valleys unfurling from the Apennines to the Adriatic coast, Le Marche is a region locals like to whisper about. Words: Kerry Walker MONTEDINOVE Nestled between the Sibillini Mountains and minutes from the Adriatic Sea, Montedinove is one of many medieval villages tucked away in Le Marche’s mountainous heart. This is a place pulsing with history, with ruined fortifications, monuments and museums. Outside of town, you can even visit the shrine of St Thomas Becket, built in the seventeenth century and dedicated to the English saint. The town’s pride and joy, however, is the fragrant mela rosa, an ancient variety of apple that’s been successfully replanted in 20 acres of surrounding orchards. One farm that cultivates these apples is the sustainably minded I Tuzi. Run by nature-loving brothers Cristiano and Gianluca, the farm has revived age-old family methods of growing forgotten varieties of fruits, vegetables, herbs and cereals, including garlic, artichokes, peppers and onions. IMAGES: ALAMY OFFAGNA & MONTAPPONE From top: The village of London-based ITS ITALY simplifies the process of Montedinove sits at an buying and managing property abroad. Having Clinging to a great crag and topped by a chunky 15th-century altitude of over 1,800ft signed a partnership with more than 60 municipalities fortress, Offagna is visible for miles around. Climb to the top in the hills of Italy’s Le across Italy, it aims to offer concrete opportunities of its tower for panoramic views over forest-plumed hills Marche region; festival- to invest and integrate with local communities and and fields, before taking a deep dive into local history at goers wear period costumes villages. Find out more at: itsfor.it the castle museum. In the final week of July, court jesters, during Offagna’s annual minstrels, dames and knights wander the streets during the medieval celebrations riotous, week-long medieval festival. Another Le Marche village, snuggling up close to Monti Sibillini National Park, is Montappone, which has a unique claim to fame as Italy’s hat capital. Straw hats have been hand-sewn here since the 1300s, and panamas, bonnets and broad-rimmed hats are still made the traditional way today. You can see an incredible display of them at the Museo del Cappello, located in the heart of the town.

| PAID CONTENT FOR TAIWAN TOURISM BUREAU TAIWAN Seven days on the east coast rail Plan a relaxing train journey in Taiwan — see the coastal cities, black beaches and national parks of the island’s east coast Words: SJ Armstrong IMAGES: ALAMY

| PAID CONTENT FOR TAIWAN TOURISM BUREAU T aiwan’s eastern railway carries travellers into the tranquillity of the island’s isolated east, cleaving cleanly through its mountainous, coastal country. The route south winds through cities and villages, along the azure-blue shores and into sprawling farmlands, past the striking black rock of the Qingshui cliffs. Within an hour, Taipei’s neon cascade of signs and skyscrapers are long forgotten. Get a glimpse of Taiwan’s lesser-explored eastern side with this seven-day itinerary. DAYS ONE TO FOUR arrive in the city, head to the night markets for a steaming bowl of soup with fresh noodles and beef that falls apart. TAROKO GORGE AND HUALIEN Afterwards, visit Dulan. Now an easy-going surf town The best way to get to the city of Hualien is via train from with a young population and thriving arts scene, Dulan has Taipei, the international hub and capital city. From the long been a hub of Taiwan’s Indigenous heritage. Further platform at Hualien station, you’ll step out into the centre inland, Mr Brown Avenue winds towards the towering of small-city life. Shopkeepers dust down the pavements in Central Mountain Range, a tranquil trail through southeast front of their stores, working around families perched on Taiwan’s rural backdrop. Rent out a bicycle in Chishang plastic stools, eating bowls of noodles. Township and soar towards the distant hills, embracing Taiwan’s peaceful countryside. Hualien, on Taiwan’s east coast, is a jumping-off point for travellers looking to explore the natural landscapes that DAY SE VE N define the country — most famously, the Taroko Gorge. KENTING Dedicate at least one to two days to Taroko National Park, Situated on Taiwan’s southern tip, is Kenting National Park. around an hour’s drive from Hualien, starting with the With white-sand beaches, verdant forests, and turquoise Shakadang Trail to the river valley. Slicing through sheer seas, the coast feels close to its southerly neighbours in rock and forest overhang, the Liwu River runs relentlessly the Philippines. Decompressing at the end of a week of through the park. Every trail and every road weaves around exploration, catch a motorbike ride down to Nanwan beach the river, and it leads travellers to the park’s best attractions. or tackle Taiwan’s best surfing spot, Jialeshui. Don’t miss out on the trail that takes you to the Shrine of En route, you’ll pass Duoliang station, a multilevel marvel Eternal Spring. Built around a waterfall, cascading year- built into the cliffs. Time your trip for sunset, when train round into the ravine below, the shrine’s white archways windows glow dramatically in the evening sky’s glorious gold. stand in sharp contrast to the density of Taroko’s forests. Recuperate after your days on the trails in the secluded steams of the Wenshan hot springs, inside the national park. DAYS FOUR TO SIX TA I T U N G Next, you’ll set out south to the city of Taitung. Nestle in for a journey over the highlands that shadow the island’s east coast, soaring above the village of Dulan’s thick forest and the black-sand shores at its fringes. When passing through Chenggong, keep your eyes peeled for the Sanxiantai Dragon, the undulating sea bridge mimicking a dragon. Once you PLAN YOUR TRIP Direct flights operate between London Gatwick and Taipei. Avoid monsoon rains by travelling in autumn or spring. For more information on travelling to and around Taiwan, visit eng.taiwan.net.tw

HOUSE SWAPPING HOME FROM HOME HOUSE SWAPPING HAS BEEN AROUND FOR DECADES, BUT IT’S GROWN IN POPULARITY IN RECENT YEARS. HOW DOES IT WORK AND WHY I S IT SO APPE ALI N G? WO RD S: AN NA MELVI LLE-JA ME S In 2006, Cameron Diaz and niche to mainstream has been them, decide whether or not Kate Winslet swapped homes hastened by the advent of the to share a part of your life with in romcom The Holiday and digital age. “Sites like Airbnb have them and — if you do — tidy took house swapping to a highlighted the different ways up very thoroughly before they mainstream audience. Such people can use their property and come round. And anyone with a trust might have seemed a encouraged them to look into the property can do it; many swappers fanciful Hollywood notion to sharing economy,” notes partner are retired and flexible time-wise, some, but those who’d been doing Mark Sealey. “If someone has but it’s also popular with families, this kind of reciprocal holidaying taken the first step in renting out couples looking for a different way for years were just surprised their home for Airbnb, it’s not a to travel and digital nomads — as that Diaz left her holiday home massive leap to think ‘well, we’ve well as those with second homes, without having hoovered. done that and that’s worked out leveraging their own getaway well, how about home swapping as against holidays in other peoples’. House swapping, where you another option?’”. exchange homes for a holiday, Travel YouTuber Alicia David is a fast-growing trend. UK-based The premise is simple: you go Reilly uses home swapping for company Love Home Swap saw to their place, they go to yours. extended breaks to visit family an 82% rise in new UK members But beyond this lies plenty of abroad. “I’m from California, and last year, and similar enthusiasm flexibility. For example, there’s the we’d come back exhausted from has been shown on other sites option to join free online platforms running around to see everyone — the number of exchanges (such as informal Facebook swap on a two-week holiday. With home finalised on rival Home Exchange, groups) or paid-for models, with swapping, we’re now able to go for which lists properties across 187 monthly or annual fees. Some six weeks to amazing places with countries, grew by 79% in the paid-for platforms have insurance swimming pools that we can treat same period. as part of membership, or help on like our own home. And as they’re hand, but there are no real formal family homes, they’ve got the But as a concept it’s actually ‘rules’ other than that, and as long things that we need — our first been around since the 1950s as both parties in a swap agree, home swap even had a zip-line — the oldest home swapping anything goes. in it, which our kids loved. It’s organisation, HomeLink great to not have to pack toys or a celebrated its 70th birthday For those who baulk at the mattress protector and to be able this year, having started when idea of handing their house keys to pinch a tablespoon of oil and enterprising US teachers on the to strangers, the reassurances leave £50 as a thank you for any east and west coasts decided to are the intense communication bits we might have used.” swap houses during the holidays. between swappers, user HomeLink UK representative reviews and inbuilt expectations. You can home swap anywhere Caroline Connolly has home “It’s a closed community, because — UK-to-UK swaps have surged swapped since her children were to be on a platform, you have post pandemic, and city travel small. For her, the appeal is in the to have some type of property has also made a comeback (the personal connection: “If you want listed,” says regular home- most-searched-for cities currently a house go to Airbnb; if you want a swapper Chisara Nwabara, fresh on Home Exchange are Paris, home, do a home exchange,” from a weekend in Berlin. ‘You’re New York, London, Amsterdam she says. swapping with other  homeowners and Barcelona). so there’s a certain respect and For family-run platform Home understanding built in.” Once you put your property up Base Holidays, which sent out on a site, you sit back and wait for pamphlets listing properties The home swap experience is requests, while making your own. to its members when it started a little like online dating — you The most popular destinations back in the 1980s, the shift from chat to people, see if you like will always get enquiries, but if 186 NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/ TR AVEL

IMAGE: 4CORNERS Strand-on-the-Green by the River Thames in Chiswick, London DECEMBER 2022 187

E X BOOK C L U S I V E BY 3 DECEMBER 2022 EXPERIENCE M RE 3 nights Includes from only a must-see £560 attraction of your choice per person Choose an included excursion to tailor your experience: Explore Relaxation Adventure Nature C A L L 0 1 9 2 2 8 9 6 5 3 4 QUOTE: COOPICELAND Stay at the 4* Fosshotel Reykjavik with breakfast included. Trip includes an experience of your choice. Choose from Northern Lights Cruise, Ritual Experience at the Sky Lagoon, Golden Circle and Secret Lagoon or Whale Watching. Children under the age of 12 are not permitted at Sky Lagoon. Price based on departing 9 January 2023. Direct flights from London Gatwick with 1 x 23kg checked bag per person included. Return airport shuttle transfers included. Prices start from only £560pp for 3 nights based on 2 adults sharing. Speak to us about upgrading your trip and mix & matching your experiences. Prices correct as of 04/10/2022, subject to change and availability. Co-operative Holidays are ATOL protected (ATOL11121) part of Midcounties Co-operative. For full terms and conditions speak to your Co-op Travel Expert. Subject to change and availability.

HOUSE SWAPPING House swapping you don’t live on a tourist trail, in the sense that my house is a knowledge they can impart. ticks the some sites allow you to collect lot smaller than theirs, but they It can also offer a personal sustainability box, points from non-simultaneous wanted a London location,” dimension that can invigorate as unlike rental swaps to use on visits to other she says. “When we arrived a holiday in unexpected ways, properties, which people’s houses. and saw the house, with its from invitations to dinner or to have been accused of swimming pool and outdoor local events from neighbours to weakening the bonds “This year, we’ll do about kitchen, we went from slight friendships that can spring up within communities, 250,000 exchanges though the anxiety to complete joy. We must between swappers. homes are lived in site, and about 70% of those have said to each other 10 times all year round are on a non-reciprocal point during the holiday, ‘Can you In addition, it ticks the system,” says Emmanuel Arnaud, believe we’ve got this?’. You just sustainability box, as unlike Below: House swaps can CEO of Home Exchange. “Some feel quite smug about the deal rental properties, which have offer a more relaxed, members do refuse points you’ve pulled off. And when we been accused of weakening comfortable place to stay exchanges, and I think that’s got back they’d left our house in the bonds within communities, linked to the idea of reciprocity pristine condition. It’s opened up homes are lived in all year round. in home exchanging, which can so many travel possibilities for be reassuring. That’s fine, though us, and I’m already planning for Possible downsides with house — what we really like is this idea next year.” swapping include the fact you that people let others stay in their can’t really do a spontaneous home for free.” Of course, the financial break — with all the back and aspect is the big driver for many, forth to find mutually suitable It’s common for newbies to initially, particularly as cost of dates, this holiday option is for doubt their property will be living rises and the savings on those willing to plan ahead. desirable to a fellow swapper, a holiday — once you remove but importantly it doesn’t have accommodation costs — can But casting off the idea that to be ‘like for like’. This is a value be huge. But home swapping everything is just there for economy — and what someone is more than just a financial instant, impersonal consumption values is what they want. transaction, it also appeals to these days is strangely refreshing. those looking for authenticity And in that sense, home For first-time home swapper, on their travels, and you don’t swapping isn’t just a cheaper, Celine Ledbury, exchanging her get more of a ‘local experience’ more relationship-oriented terraced house for a detached than staying in someone else’s way to approach your holiday, villa in Guadeloupe this year house, with all the insider but a gentle rebuke to the very was a leap of faith. “I didn’t idea of the capitalist economy think we were a match initially, itself. Vive la (travel) révolution! IMAGE: GETTY DECEMBER 2022 189

HOUSE SWAPPING Left: House swaps offer everything from a traditional family home to treehouses in Florida THE BASICS Do you have to holiday at usually leave instructions for MORE INFORMATION IMAGE: HOMEEXCHANGE the same time? any unforeseen problems. Some HomeLink. homelink.org What does it cost? websites ask for the authority to Love Home Swap. Purists say yes, and most sites take a deposit from your bank lovehomeswap.com Online home swapping platforms are based on the principle account if there are damages to Home Exchange. usually charge an annual or of synchronous reciprocal pay for. For most, though, the homeexchange.com monthly fee to members to list swapping, where you both swap resolution of problems rests on Home Base Holidays. their homes and connect them your homes on an agreed set relationship and negotiation. homebase-hols.com with other users. Love Home of dates. Some platforms also Swap starts at £96 a year, Home include a points system, too, What if you rent? Base Holidays £29 for six months, though, where you can earn HomeLink (UK) £115 for the first points when another member In theory, you can home year with a free second year if you stays in your home but you don’t swap in any property, including don’t exchange in the first. Home stay at theirs — which you can a rental one — whether you Exchange, meanwhile, charges then use for travel at a time that feel comfortable about this $175 (£155) a year. If you’re looking suits you. For those swapping depends on how you view it. for maximum savings, then try second homes, the exchange “I don’t see this as subletting free sites such as People Like Us doesn’t have to be synchronous. because no money is changing and Switchome, too. hands. Rather, I’m just giving What about insurance? my place to someone within a What can you save? community I trust to stay in it for Some platforms, such as Home a weekend,” says one anonymous Home swappers don’t pay for Exchange, offer insurance as home swapper. accommodation, so your savings part of membership to cover any will depend on what you usually mishaps and give you greater Anything else to consider? spend. Love Home Swap estimates peace of mind, but it’s worth that, on average, its members save confirming this before you sign The more active users on a site, the £2,000 on a seven-night stay by up to a platform. In most other more chance you have of finding choosing to home swap rather than cases, check with your own home matches — but be aware this isn’t stay in a holiday rental. It’s also insurance that you’ll be covered the same as member numbers, worth noting that many swappers in this situation, or buy some which might be inflated by those also swap cars (just put them on extra, day-by-day insurance to who joined with a free trial but are your insurance) plus everything cover the period of occupancy. not active. You’ll also need to put from canoes to beach towels. effort into getting the most out of Additional services, like feeding What if something goes home swapping. “We find the most pets while in the property, cut can wrong? successful swappers are the most overheads to a bare minimum. proactive,” notes Mark from Home It’s rare, but if a swap is cancelled Base Holidays. “Building a decent How long can you do it for? at the last minute points will profile on a site, going through usually be refunded. Some sites listings and sending out emails Providing everyone agrees, it will also try to find alternative takes time, so ideally join one or can be for as long as you want stays or cover you for hotel nights two that best meet your needs.” — anything from a weekend instead, but for others, you may And when negotiating your stay break to three months or longer just have to write it off as a loss, with others, remember trust and for digital nomads, round-the- airfare and all, which is perhaps transparency are key. world-trippers or retirees. the biggest risk. On site, owners 190 NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/ TR AVEL





GET IN TOUCH INBOX DID YOU LOVE ONE OF OUR FEATURES? DID A STORY INSPIRE AN ADVENTURE? LET US KNOW WHAT YOU THINK OF THE MAGAZINE AND THE STAR LET TER WILL WIN THE INCREDIBLE PRIZE BELOW. Get in touch [email protected] Have a query about Harlem Hops, Manhattan’s A family affair subscriptions? first 100% African-American- owned craft beer bar I grew up in the 50s and early 60s, and loved Get in touch at going to my grandmother’s house. There were natgeotraveller@ STAR LETTER several reasons, but one that stands out in my subscription.co.uk memory is rummaging through her collection or call 01858 438787 Harlem dreaming of National Geographic magazines. She’d been raised by a well-to-do family, a er her WIN I loved your article on Harlem (City Life, parents died early, who had circumvented the October 2022). Next May, three generations world — the Pyramids, the Amazon and all of A D-Robe coat of my family will be visiting New York City Europe. When I visited her, we’d look at the worth £179! for the first time. Knowing nothing about places her adopted family had visited. That Harlem other than some (wrong) stereotypes, laid the groundwork for me devouring your D-Robe aims to limit it was not on our agenda, and we hadn’t monthly magazine. At 70, I still have quite a overconsumption by considered visiting it. However, having read bucket list, which has, to a great extent, been creating multi-functional this insightful piece, we’re putting a day formed by it. J O H N M A R K V I C E pieces, and their all-weather aside to explore the neighbourhood. The Beaufort Robe is a case streets with trees and parks might offer Off the beaten path in point. With an ageless, us a restful area to relax, and the range of unisex design, it’s intended food sounds great, appealing to my family I really enjoyed your feature on Budapest to stand the test of time members’ different tastes. Hopefully we’ll (City Life, June 2022). I visited the Hungarian through features including hear some music, too. Thanks to writer Alicia city as a university student, and I remember a recycled nylon outer shell Miller for helping us plan our week abroad. being immediately struck by its architecture that’s both breathable and — it was, and still remains, one of the most waterproof; a recycled BEV K AY beautiful European capitals I’ve seen. I was polyester fleece lining; only there for three days, so I ticked off the IMAGE: MARIA MIDÕES and several pockets. headline attractions — the Fisherman’s d-robeoutdoors.com Bastion, the Parliament Building and the Central Market Hall, where I tried fired lángos flatbread. I’ve always wanted to go back, and reading your piece inspired me to book a trip to discover lesser-known corners of the city. C E LE STE C A P P I DECEMBER 2022 193

PHOTOGRAPHY B H U TA N HOW I GOT THE SHOT IN OUR DECEMBER 2021 I SSUE, RENATO GR ANIERI CAPTURED THE IMP O RTAN C E O F TR AD ITI O N IN TH E HIM AL AYAN CO U NTRY. H E TELL S US THE STORY BEHIND THIS IM AGE OF THE PARO TSHECHU FESTIVAL Tell us about this image. How did you achieve the shot? sun can be quite harsh in the middle of the day. I’d always wanted to visit Bhutan, mainly to take For this shoot, I used a telephoto lens (70- Fortunately, I’d started the first day of my trip at photos of the local festivities and traditions. 200mm) and a wider lens (24-70mm). This image 6am to get an idea of where the light would fall. Taking place each spring, the Paro Tshechu was taken with the latter, which allowed me to The ceremony went on all day and night, giving Buddhist festival is one of the country’s major get close to the dancers while keeping a wide me plenty of chances to capture different shots. events. It’s held to commemorate the birth background. I wanted to include the audience of Guru Padmasambhava, the patron saint of and convey the importance of religion and What advice would you give someone starting Bhutan, who introduced Tantric Buddhism to tradition, the central values of the festival. out in travel photography? its people. Dancing and playing music while I was astonished by the vibrant shades of the Look for inspiration from other photographers, wearing traditional costumes is an important spectators’ outfits. A big aperture allowed me but do your own research before you travel to part of the cultural life of Bhutanese people, to slightly blur the background, making them a destination, especially if it’s your first time and it’s done to convey religious messages and appear as a colourful tapestry of celebration. there. Online sources and tutorials are easy to display righteous ways of living. access. Also, flick through travel publications to What were the challenges at play? get a sense of what an editor might look for. I spent two full days at the festival to collect I thought the crowds would be the main as wide a variety of shots as possible. With this obstacle, but the locals turned out to be View the full shoot and interview online at particular photograph, I waited for the dancers extremely friendly, and they allowed me to be nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel to have one foot up to give the image some at the front. Instead, I realised the light could symmetry. I sat low and shot upwards in an have been an issue: at certain altitudes, the renatogranieri.com effort to capture the power of the performance. @renato_granieri_photography I SUBMIT YOUR PHOTOGR APHY FOR CONSIDER ATION AT PHOTOGR APHY@NATGEOTR AVELLER .CO.UK 194 NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/ TR AVEL



BORN IN GERMANY. ENGINEERED FOR THE WORLD. INGENIEURSKUNST SEIT 1898