Clouds above form vague patterns, indiscernible forms merge with one another only to disappear into the vastness of the 51 sky. I’m walking back home, the same linear path i’ve trodden a million times before. But everytime there is something new to observe. This ensemble takes inspiration from this journey from college to home that i’ve traversed so many times. I sought inspiration from the shapes of formless clouds, linear lines so often seen in a myriad of different ways in an urban landscape. Whether they are telephone wires or criss crossing roads. A colour palette consisting of greys, blues and blacks have been used.
Style No : CBPDG1AW001 Style No : CBPDG2AW002 Season : Trans Seasonal 2022 Season : Trans Seasonal 2022 Style Description : Rib Knit Bodycon Dress, Ankle length, Raglan Bishop Sleeves. Style Description : ANti-Fit Woolen Wrap, Tie up at Empire Level Category : Dresses Category : Outerwear Surfacing : Aizome Shibori in Pantone 18-4510 TCX Trooper. Surfacing : All over Hand Block Printing (bagru) Fabric : 1*1 Rib Knit (100% Cotton), 4*4 Rib Knit (Cotton/Polyester Blend) Fabric : 100% Wool, 100% Polyester Fit : Bodycon Fit : Anti-Fit Size: Free Size Size: Free Size Look 4 Anya Wahi This look consists of an ankle length knit dress and a wool wrap shrug. The knit dress is made out of 1*1 rib knit and features an all over shibori pattern. It has raglan bishop sleeves and has ribbed cuffed and a turtleneck collar in a solid soft white. The fit is kept bodycon and the dress elongates the body of the wearer. The wool wrap is lined with a textured polyester and has all over hand block print (Bagru) on the wool. it can be tied up just below the bust according to the comfort of the wearer. It has an anti-fit silhouette and is finished with bias binding made from a different type of block print.
The pieces and the entire process behind each one of 53 them embraces all that it takes to start bursting through the seams in the best possible ways. Lines flow into one another through handblock printing, shibori and hand painting are broken constantly through either the offsets that make them so unique or through an occasional poppy flower blooming in between the lines. Shibori is executed in fabrics ranging from lightweight to heavy rib knits to create an interesting variation in weight and texture. Hand Block Printing done in wool compliments these fabrics in neutral colours with a pop of orange in the lining.
Style No : CBPD15AW006 Style No : CBPDG2AW006 Season : Trans Seasonal 2022 Season : Trans Seasonal 2022 Style Description : Sheer Knit top with turtleneck collar and long sleeves Style Description : Split design, Strapless, long jumpsuit with side zipper and in seam pockets Category : Tops Category : Jumpsuits Surfacing : NA Surfacing : Shibori Fabric : Cotton Jersey Fabric : Cotton Satin Fit : Bodycon Fit : Loose Fit Size: Free Size Size: Chest 32 Look 5 Delphi Das This look consists of a turtle neck knit top and an off shoulder pleated jumpsuit. The knit top is made out of sheer white cotton lycra. It has a turtleneck collar and full sleeves. The fit is kept bodycon and the top elgates till the lower waist level. The strapless jumpsuit is made out of cotton satin and features Arashi shibori pattern in a ombre manner. It is a wide-leg jumpsuit with a side zip fastening, side inseam pockets, a split design to the front and back and a long length up till the ankles. The neckline is finished with shaped facing. The design ensures minimum fabric wastage, with the excess around the bust area going inside the pleat and the little leftovers have been used for the pockets and facing.
The pandemic saw people experience Using techniques of Arashi Shibori, and experimenting particularly with 55 drastic mood swings and emotional pole wrapping, different organic patterns were achieved that closely imbalances, with which we finally have ’resembled my inspiration, carely put together in the garment, made out of come to a point where we haven’t been cotton satin, in a way such the the bolder patterns inside the pleats able to get rid of them but are able to deal revealed itself with every movement of the wearer. with and carry on stably. The ensemble captures the same essence putting together Imbalances into a balance.
Lookbook Group 2 56
Look 1 57 Alka Kumari
Look 2 Amulya Kanukuntla
Look 3 59 Anmol Venkatesh
Look 4 Anya Wahi
Look 5 61 Delphi Das
BAGRU 63
Bagru is a tiny village on the Jaipur-Ajman route, 35 Bagru is renowned for its block printing Furthermore, Bagru craft is renowned for its ecological kilometers from the town of Jaipur in Rajasthan. The prints skills and, more precisely, the sensitivity and traditional coloration. Bagru is a great tourist popularly referred to as Bagru Prints make the town a vegetable and natural dyes used in destination for people obsessed with textile printing due to center for craftsmanship well-known in and around Jaipur. printing. These unique printing the brilliance of this ancient art that the indigenous people The handcrafts business has become a family business for techniques use wooden blocks, which keep alive. Bagru block printing is considered various villagers in Bagru, while the older generation first engrave the design on the block to incomparable. The process of block printing is not only transfers techniques and tricks of the craft to the next one. reproduce the design on the preferred painstakingly laborious but anciently beautiful. cloth. 64
Dabu Mud Resist The quaint town of Bagru has a lot to offer, the ancient art of Dabu printing being one of them. Dabu is a mud-resist hand block printing technique, the name of the craft originates from the Hindi word ‘dabana’, which means to press. This craft flourished in areas which naturally had sticky clays such as field, easily accessible in the surrounding areas, with its main centers in Rajasthan, Gujarat and Madhya Pradesh. The lehenga and odhni of the women in this region traditionally decorated these prints. Today, this method involves a wide selection of clothing and home linen. 65
Limewater(chuna), gum(gond), wheat chaff (beedan) and locally available black soil are used in creating the Dabu paste, which is the crux of the craft. Depending upon the type of block to be used for printing and the thickness of the fab- ric to be printed, the ratio of ingredients for the Dabu paste differs. The application of the paste is done using blocks. With the passage of time many changes have taken place either due to unavailability of the original materials or to enhance the techniques for better outcome. Such as, the craftsmen started using tar rather than mud in the event of sharper contrasts in the designs. Based on the end product and the color, there are 3 forms of Dabu: a. Kaligar Dabu is only once processed b. Dolidar Dabu, which is less gum so that it can survive two trips to the dye vats c. Crustaceans (gawarbali) Upon completion of Dabu printing, saw dust is spread over the fabric until the prints dry entirely to prevent sticking with each other. 66
To begin the printing process these ready fabrics are taken for tanning using Harda. Harda is a medicinal herb that is used in treatment of cotton fabric, to hold the metal on fabric by reaction with tannin present in harda. Two types of Harda are found Bal Harda and Jawar Harda, that are crushed and powdered and then mixed in water. The fabric is then treated in this mixture. The process of Harda treatment with intermediate drying is repeated 2-3 times till greenish yellow colour is obtained. The fabric is dried by laying it out flat on the ground to achieve even distribution and setting of the Harda. After the fabric goes through Harda treatment, it is ready for the Resist mud printing process or Dabu. After the dabu paste is applied on the fabric using the desired block, a layer of saw dust is sprinkled to prevent the fabric from sticking. And then it is left to dry. Thereafter it is dyed using the desired colour, thus the printed areas are left blank and the dye is attained in the region when Dabu was not applied. This process is repeated as many times as desired. Wherever the dye needs to be retained, Dabu paste is applied and the rest is dyed using the next colour. Over printing of certain dyes results in specific colours. The fabric is put in the dye bath for 5-10 min or as required to catch the desired shade. Traditionally, natural dyes are used for the dyeing process. The most common and popular shades in Bagru print are red (began) and black (syahi). The blocks are also primarily designed by the artisans and application is very simple with pressing the blocks on the tray which hold the dye has many layers, and then pressing the block on the fabric on the desired region and giving it a gentle tap that results on the dye to be transferred to the fabric. 67
BAGIYA 'Bagiya' simply means garden. To romanticise it's meaning, we could connect it to the process of blooming, or grow. It is beauty, it is free, it is delicate yet strong. We are dwellers of the enchanted world, and we seem to exist only to grow and finally be a part of the universe forever. We are beautiful and strong and we are full of hope and positivity. 69
BOARDS The hues of reds have been used to rightly depict the mood of the garment. The prints mostly consist of florals with checks to bring out the balance. The garment constructed is flowy, and feminine. 70
process The basic idea behind the selection of the blocks and color,is to have a fusion between the traditional color with a hint of modern prints. The prints of florals and checks have been selected to give the modern look to the garment. A variety of blocks have been selected to give a fun appeal to the look. Although only one colour has been used, shades of it can be seen in the garment, as the process of printing have been slightly altered by differing the pressure of the blocks as it was printed on the fabric. 71
Style No : CBPDG1AW001 look Season : S/Sl 2022 SRIJEETA Style Description : Wrap fit and flare Dress, Knee length, Lantern Sleeves, Long cuffs Category : Dresses The look is created using a fit and flare dress with V-neck and Surfacing : Bagru block printing lantern sleeves.The material used is purely cotton based, partly in Fabric : Kota dori, Cotton malmal malmal and partly in kota dori.Each piece is selectively printed with Fit : Fit and flare Size: XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL the traditional red colour of block prints of Bagru. The finishing in the hems of the dress and the cuff is exceptionally 72 delicately done with hand-finishes. The whole garment is made out of just the ‘red’ colour, however, the shades of red vary throughout. This was only possible with the effective play of pressure put in the fabric while the block printing was done.
Designer - Srijeeta Saha 73
75
Adh-rekh A defiance to “the whole is greater than the sum of its parts” ‘Adh-rekh” is all about delving into the beauty of some of the in-between/mid-process/incomplete bits and using them to enhance, add value and complete. 76
Silhouette Colour NEUTRAL RELAXED CLASSIC BREEZY EARTHY BALANCED CONTRAST YOUTHFUL TRADITIONAL VERSATILE 77
Style No : CBPD_SS23_001 Style No : CBPD_SS23_002 Style No : CBPD_SS23_003 Look 1 Season : Spring Summer 2022 Season : Spring Summer 2022 Season : Spring Summer 2022 Style Description : Halter neck sheer backless top with Style Description : Straight pants with large pleat tacked Style Description : Sheer Kimono with asymmetrical RHEA MORAS four sets of cords for securement. at the hem. hems and side slits Category : Tops Category : Bottomwear Category : Outerwear This look consists of a backless halter neck top, a Surfacing : Bagru Block Print Surfacing : Harda-treated Surfacing : N/A straight pant with a pleat detail and a sheer wide Fabric : Organic Bamboo Crepe Fabric - 44” Fabric : Orange Moss Satin Fabric - 44” Fabric : Silk Organza - 50” necked kimono. Fit : Fitted Fit : Straight Fit Fit : Loose Fit Size: Small Size: Small Size: One size The sheer crepe top has the classic black bagru block print over a harda treated fabric. The blocks used for shaped facing wide boat neck this garment are traditionally border blocks but have finish side slits been used as an overall print. The hem has been cut unevenly around the print motifs and has been left closed halter neckline 4”pleat raw. It has a backless design with four sets of cords/doris to secure the garment on the body. straight darts at the back wide kimono silhouette sleeves The pants are made with a moss satin fabric, The fabric was harda-treated and left at that stage to work with curved further. It has a huge 4” pleat at the front on both sides deep that go down till the hem and have been tacked over armhole there to give an interesting touch to the silhouette. uneven hemlines The silk organza kimono has a wide boat neck that gets highlighted on its own without outshining the neckline cords/dori uneven raw hem details of the top. Ihas slits on the side with an asymmetrical hem. elbow length seam at centre-front pleat tacked at the hem Bagru Print Moss satin - Harda Silk Organza Motifs on 78 Bamboo crepe
Design Process irregular raw edge seam shaped according varying necklines that overlap each other but don't collide to the motifs with each other taking off the loosely and other’s focus tight fitting garments joined at the centre front to layered give the depth of gadh and without fineness of rekh blocks reducing the highlight on border blocks both fabrics used as filler blocks pleat tacked at hem to give an interesting touch to the silhouette. harda treated crepe gadh rekh 79
Style No : CBPD_SS23_004 Style No : CBPD_SS23_005 Style No : CBPD_SS23_006 Look 2 Season : Spring Summer 2022 Season : Spring Summer 2022 Season : Spring Summer 2022 Style Description : V neck blouse with noodle straps and Style Description : High-waisted straight pants Style Description : Oversized sheer overshirt with drop SAI elastic strap at the back Category : Bottoms shoulders and gathered sleeves and neckline. CHARAN Category : Tops Surfacing : Solid Dyed Fabric Category : Outerwear Surfacing : Bagru printed fabric Fabric : Cotton Twill fabric - 56” Surfacing : Harda-treated fabric The V neck blouse has an overall gadh bagru print in Fabric : Orange Moss Satin Fabric - 44” Fit : Fitted Fabric : Striped Soybean fabric - 44” black. It has a backless design with an elasticated strap Fit : Fitted Size: Small - Medium Fit : Loosely fitted for securement. Size: Small Size: Small - Medium The overshirt was treated with harda and has been Darts below the bust Gathers around the collar used for the garment immediately after This look consists of a V neck blouse, a pair of solid straight V neck wide waistband pants and an over shirt with slightly puffed sleeves. Elastic at the back High waisted that process. thin straps patch pockets The pants are made of a brown cotton twill fabric to curved back pieces Gathers around the cuff complete the look. Straight Fit Cotton Twil Striped Bagru Print Soybean on Orange Fabric Moss Satin 80 80
Design Process gathers around the neckline that radiate from underneath the collar voluminous sleeve with gathers around the cuff one cm strap at the back, wider pants with a wide waistband at the front and no pockets elastic detail at the back curved panels Gadh block printed on the entirety of the top 81
Style No : CBPD_SS23_007 Style No : CBPD_SS23_008 Look 3 Season : Spring Summer 2022 Season : Spring Summer 2022 Style Description : Oversized drop sleeve top with tie Style Description : Bermuda shorts with darts SALONI detail Category : Bottoms SINGH Category : Tops Surfacing : Bagru Block Print Surfacing : Harda-treated fabric Fabric : Cotton Twill - 55” This look consists of an oversized drop shoulder top Fabric : Organic Corn Fabric (Stripes) 44” Fit : Regular Fit with tie details at the back accompanied with high Fit : Loose Fit Size: Medium waist Bermuda shorts with darts. Size: Medium With an overall bagru print over harda treated fabrics, the look is an amalgamation of traditional techniques 82 of bagru with contemporary motifs. The red panel of the shorts is checked bagru cotton twill and the black panel is made with the incomplete process where is the fabric is printed just with the \"gadh\", leaving out the inner details. The shorts is made in cotton twill and lycra blend and the top is a textured organic fabric Organic Corn Bagru Printed Cotton Twill
Design Process checkerboard gadh print in the geometric gadh classic red shade of Bagru print in Bagru’s black shade 83
Style No : CBPD_SS23_009 Style No : CBPD_SS23_010 Style No : CBPD_SS23_011 Look 4 Season : Spring Summer 2022 Season : Spring Summer 2022 Season : Spring Summer 2022 Style Description : V-neck Blouse with empire line waist Style Description : Flared Hem High-waisted Palazzos Style Description : loose over-shirt with gathers at SHALINI band with light gathers and elastic at the waist. waist and dropped shoulders. Category : Tops Category : Bottoms Category : Outerwear PANDIT Surfacing : N/A Surfacing : Harda-treated Surfacing : Bagru Block Print Fabric : Cotton Twill Fabric : Soybean Fibre Stripped Fabric : Kota Doria Silk This look consists of a fitted V-neck blouse, Flared Fit : Regular Fit Fit : Flared Fit Fit : Loose Fit High-waisted Palazzos and an overshirt with a Size: Medium Size: Medium Size: Medium gathered panel at the waist and dropped shoulders. The Block printed lightweight overshirt has been balanced with the blackcotton twill blouse with bust dart. The Flared hem bottom provides volume completing the look with an edge of sophistication. The print for the overshirt consist of enlarges florals at the body as well as the sleeve, and detailed border print that makes the gathered panels. The sleeve are attached to the dropped style shoulder to emphasis the relaxed feel of the look. Cotton Twill KOTA DORIA Silk Organic Soybean Fiber Stripped BLOCK PRINTE 84
Design Process empire waist line with bust dart and thin straps lightweight fabric causes without over shirt view almost sheer like effect facing done using the also the result of the cotton twill fabric to give spaced out motifs printed hem finishing at both the making use of gadh and body and sleeve hems rekh blocks to achieve a border pattern lightweight striped fabric in natural harda shade after dyeing. 85
Style No : CBPD_SS23_012 Style No : CBPD_SS23_013 Style No : CBPD_SS23_014 Look 5 Season : Spring Summer 2022 Season : Spring Summer 2022 Season : Spring Summer 2022 Style Description : Raglan sleeve shirt, round neck with Style Description : Kimono, dabu print combination with Style Description : Straight panel pants and patched SHALISHA front placket opening, With pocket and cuff details. 3/Q Sleeve. Panel style with front open. pocket, with front slit details at the bottom hem. VEDANT Category : Tops Category : Outerwear Category : Bottoms Surfacing : Bagru Block Print Surfacing : Dabu Mud Resist - Block Print Surfacing : Bagru Block Print This look is styled in a 3-piece silhouette consisting of Fabric : Organic Corn Fabric (Stripes) 44” Fabric : Organic Bamboo Fabric - 44” Fabric : Orange Moss Satin Fabric - 44” Raglan full sleeve shirt pairing with a straight fit wide Fit : Loose Fit Fit : Regular Fit Fit : Straight Fit legged pant and layered with the Dabu printed Size: Medium Size: Medium Size: Medium Kimono. Biased Neckline 3/Q Sleeve Zipper Fly The garment has intricate details of printed patch A-Line Sleeve Patch Pocket pockets. The sleeve has detailed motif designs. For Raglan Sleeve Kimono the panels are joint giving it a patch work look, Waist Band with open front. Pocket Details Different organic fabrics have been used to give more Button Down at texture and feel to the garment. the Centre Front Cuff details Patched Organic Corn Organic Bamboo Orange Moss Satin Panels 86 Slit at the mid Hemline Bagru Print Motifs Dabu Mud Resist Dabu Print Motifs
Design Process Patterns in LINE panels (Dabu) MESH DESORT VOID Same print on check desort Intricate mesh check prints on sleeve pattern on the desort pattern on as well (dabu) kimono (Dabu) the pants (bagru) Adding prints at Mapping the mesh on the one the hemline panel of the pants and other panel (bagru) patch pocket (bagru) Mapping the print on 87 the sleeve (bagru)
Range Plan 89
LOOK BOOK GROUP 4 | Bagru Block Print 90
Look 1 Designer - Rhea Moras 91
Look 2 Designer - Sai Charan Rathod 92
Look 3 Designer - Saloni Singh 93
Look 4 Designer - Shalini Pandit 94
Look 5 Designer - Shalisha Vedant 95
96 Photographers - Chakshu Verma and Nikhil Soren Models - Dishti Gosain, Saloni Singh, Anjali Hrishikeshan, Mansi Chouhan and Anugya Saini
THANK YOU Since the beginning of mankind, humans have had the zeal to explore the unexplored, to walk the paths less travelled by. This is a tribute to one of those paths that people often desire to walk on and only a few become lucky enough to witness that journey. Who had thought that the Western barren lands could fulfil our hearts and touch our souls in a mere span of ten days. Although the virtual journey that we took was a lot different from the one we took this year, as we had walked on that rich land ourselves. There is no doubt about the fact that through this span of “Craft Cluster”, we found out a little more about ourselves while discovering different aspects of Jaipur. The experience was extremely insightful, leaving us yearning for more. This document is our effort in bringing out the beauty of Jaipur and its crafts. 99
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