book test 16

["Moku-khum Dumping Luch It has two parallel line strips It is a flower-like shape most- Circular shaped motif de- with a dot shape structure in ly with two colours either rived from the belt worn by the middle. It is derived from black or red or both. This nyishi women. the cucumber, dots represent motif is the imitation of the seeds. It originated from the hairpin (Dumping) worn by east Gauteng district. the Nyishi women. Motifs | 86","Fig. No. 8.1 Nyishi man & children in traditional costume Costume | 87","CHAPTER 8 c stume Costume | 88","Fig. No. 8.2 GALE Nyishi Woman in traditional costume Gale are rectangular fabrics used as wraparound skirts by the females of the Nyishi tribe. Simple Gales are Women\u2019s worn on regular days while the intricate ones are worn Costume during special occasions. Costume | 89 TONNA \u2018Tonna\u2019 is a red cloth worn by the females of the tribe, to ensure modesty by concealing private areas, especial- ly when the fabric worn is too thin. SHAWLS Exquisite shawls meticulously woven by the Nyishis that boast a captivating allure. Typically adorned in pristine white hues, they showcase intricate motifs em- bellishing their borders along the length, complement- ed by elegant tasseled ends across their breadth. These opulent garments serve as perfect accompaniments to the traditional gales worn by the Nyishis.","Types of Gale 1. 2. 3. Fig. No. 8.3 Fig. No. 8.4 Fig. No. 8.5 DUMPING GALE JEKUM GALE POMO GALE The Dumping gale is exclusively worn The Jekum gale features four distinct mo- The Pomo gale holds immense traditional during the performance of the popular tifs: Muko Khum, Luch, Putu, and Pomo. value and is the oldest wraparound fabric local dance called Rikampada in the Nyo- This traditional fabric holds great cul- among the Nyishi tribe. kum festival. tural significance and symbolizes the The name \u201cPomo\u201d is derived from the This gale adds to the beauty and grace unity of the Nyishi tribe across different traditional word used by the tribal peo- of the dancers, enhancing the festive districts in Arunachal Pradesh, as it is ple to refer to their cloth. It showcases el- celebrations and showcasing the tribe\u2019s embraced and worn by all members of egant black and white stripes, reflecting unique traditions. the community. the rich heritage of the tribe. Costume | 90","4. 5. 6. Fig. No. 8.6 Fig. No. 8.7 Fig. No. 8.8 JUHU GALE LUCH GALE JINJAB GALE Juhu gale contains the juhu motifs and is Luch gale are the type of gales adorned Jinjab gale is a type of fabric with jinjab worn by the Nyishis. with the luch motifs which are worn by motifs on it that is used as a wraparound the female members of the\u00a0Nyishi\u00a0tribe. skirt by the nyishi women. Costume | 91","POMO JACKET Fig. No. 8.9 Men\u2019s Traditional The Nyishis wear a cotton jacket termed \u2018Pomo\u2019 which is jacket distinguished by its indigenous black and white stripe design. It is paired with an accompanying belt known as Men\u2019s \u2018Tama,\u2019 which is embellished with a pocket-side hornbill Costume logo. Costume | 92 TASSH NARA The Nyishis also wear a black cloak crafted from the blade-like epidermis of the Sago Palm trees. This mate- rial is meticulously harvested, dried, and tied together to make the furry coat known as the\u00a0\u2018Tassh\u00a0Nara.\u2019","Fig. No. 8.10 PAR EIJ Nyishi man & woman in Par Eij The Nyishi tribe shares a customary attire, \u2018Par Eij,\u2019 worn by both genders during auspi- Costume | 93 cious events. Therefore, during the Nyokum Yullo Festival, a significant number of participants engaging in the rituals can be observed attired in the same distinctive hue of yellowish-white, akin to the macaroon shade, albeit donning various styles. The diversity of styles in Par Eij shows the tribe\u2019s penchant for individual expression within the confines of tradition. Notably, the male version of this attire is no- tably shorter in length, a practical consider- ation tailored for their ventures and hunting expeditions.","HAIRSTYLE & HEADGEAR Women: Traditionally, the Nyishi women intricately plait their hair and fasten it neatly at the forehead using locally sourced thread. This styled hair is then adorned by horizontally inserting a brass skewer through the knotted strands. Men: The most distinctive feature in the attire of the Nyishi men is the wickerwork helmet, crowned with a red-dyed hornbill beak and sometimes decorated with hornbill feathers, that sits atop their head. A bun of plaited hair called podum with a hor- izontal skewer inserted through it, protrudes over the fore- head from below this helmet. A piece of yellow strap encir- cles the podum while a delicate band of woven cane, decorated with small metal bells, graces the circumference of the head. Costume | 94","ORNAMENTS Fig. No. 8.11 Fig. No. 8.12 Fig. No. 8.13 Fig. No. 8.14 Uryuk\/Dhao: Himba: Hufyi: Tasang: The traditional sword used by Thr straps of these Dhao are Hufyi are disc-shaped objects Tasang are beaded ornaments the male of the society is re- decorated with shells . typically made of materials like crafted from elephant teeth ferred as Uryuk. The males pre- brass, steel, aluminum, silver, or or ivory. These ornaments fer to design their blades and copper. They are worn by the are available in various colors, even the scabbard called Dhao. Nyishi tribes on their belts. shapes, and sizes, and their value The Dhao is made up of animal increases with time. skin (usually of monkeys, bears, and tigers, etc.) and is called Bohgyun\/Bofyi. It protects and gives charm to the sword. Costume | 95","Fig. No. 8.15 Fig. No. 8.16 Fig. No. 8.17 Fig. No. 8.18 Gagi: Koji: Dumping: Bopa \/ Byopa: Gagi is an earring worn by fe- Koji are traditional bangles Dumping is a form of headgear Bopa, worn by male members of the males belonging to the Nyishi made of brass and silver. Both that comprises beads (tasang) Nyishi Tribes, is a complex headgear tribe. It is crafted from silver men and women wear Koji, al- and rectangular metallic ob- composed of multiple small parts. The and steel, featuring circular though men generally prefer jects made from brass, silver, primary component, the cap, is hand- carvings on the earpiece\u2019s plain ones while women often and steel. These components crafted from cane. In the past, hornbill ring. opt for designs. are connected to the beads us- beaks were used for ornamentation. ing threaded holes. The Bopa also features a bundle of red strings in front. The headgear contains a metallic stick called Dumlo\/Dumkyo that pierces through the Chalang. Costume | 96","Fig. No. 9.1 Eri shawl with Himba motif Product Analysis | 97","CHAPTER 9 PR duct ANALYSIS Product Analysis | 98","Fig. No. 9.2 PRODUCT RANGE Woman with contemporary products Items designed primarily for the community members within the district belong to the realm of clothing, encompassing scarves, Product Analysis | 99 shawls, mufflers, and jackets. A newly unveiled collection extends to encompass home decor, accessories, and clothing, featuring offerings like bed sheets, cur- tains, bags, shirts, and churidars. Moreover, these merchandise selections have been presented at exhibitions held at notable venues, including the Red Fort, Arunachal House in New Delhi. Additionally, they accept requests from the Emporium situated in Itanagar, Arunachal Pradesh.","PRODUCT CATEGORY Fig. No. 9.3 Woman wearing HOME FURNISHING contemporary Top & Gale 1-Curtain 2- Bedsheet Product Analysis | 100 ACCESSORIES 1- Bag 2- Muffler APPAREL 1- Churidaar 2- Jacket 3- Gale 4- Shirt PRODUCT PRICING Product costing is determined by both the quality of the item and the level of labor invested in its creation. The overall cost encompasses expenses for transportation, raw materials, and production labor. Material Cost\/Kg Cost of Gale Cotton (Rs.) (Rs.) Rs.600 Rs.1700-3000 Acrylic Rs.700 Rs.1700-3500 Eri Rs.5000 Rs.5000-8000 Muga Rs.20,000 Rs.17000-25000","Fig. No. 9.4 Contemporary jacket Product Analysis | 101","PRODUCT TABLE Product Material Quantity of Fabric Cost Curtain Acrylic and Cotton 2.47m Rs. 800-900 Sr. No. Product Category Bedsheet 2.5m Rs.800 1. Home Furnishing Cotton 1.5m Rs. 800-1500 2. Home Furnishing Bag Acrylic and Cotton 2m Rs.1500-1800 3. Accessories Churidaar 2.5m Rs. 2000-3500 4. Apparel Jacket(Ladies) Cotton 1.8-2m Rs. 1700-25000 5. Apparel Acrylic and Cotton 3m Rs. 2500-3700 6. Apparel Gale Cotton, Eri, Muga, Acrylic 1.8m Rs. 170-200 7. Apparel Jacket(Gents) Cotton, Acrylic 3m Rs. 1500-1700 8. Accesories Cotton, Acrylic 9. Apparel Muff ler Shirt Cotton Product Analysis | 102","Market Scenario | 103","CHAPTER 10 MARKET SCENARI Market Scenario | 104","Fig. No. 10.1 Market near Dobum Village MARKET SCENARIO The handloom Gales and Pharej find limited occasions to adorn their wearers outside of the North East. This may be either due to the opulent motifs or perhaps the uniqueness of such garments. This brings limited takers to these products, which already find dwindling numbers of customers since the competition with power looms began, making the younger genera- tion to lose interest in the craft. Lack of knowledge about these fabrics, their rare presence outside the northeast market, and communication barriers prevent a proper linkage between artisans and potential buyers and investors. Market Scenario | 105","CHANNELS OF DISTRIBUTION DIRECT INDIRECT Weaving Unit Intermediaries Consumers Villages Exhibition Consumers Emporium Sales Route Place of Sale Market Scenario | 106","STRENGTH WEAKNESS Skilled artisans exhibit a remarkable ability to intricate- The handloom sector encounters significant challenges due to com- ly craft spontaneous patterns and textures, without re- munication barriers, hindering product promotion and sales. Insuffi- liance on pre-planned designs.They achieve captivating cient promotion obstructs artisans\u2019 growth and visibility, while limit- tactile effects in handwoven textiles by deftly adjusting ed encouragement of traditional art limits its potential. tension, spacing, and yarn interlacing, imbuing them with an unmistakable mark of their expertise. Inadequate machinery affects productivity, and the lack of market intelligence hinders understanding consumer preferences and mar- Handloom weaving is an environmentally friendly pro- ket trends. Scarce designers impede innovation, and limited access to cess that does not require electricity or produce signifi- markets and transport increases problem. cant amounts of waste. It empowers local communities through employment opportunities and economic sup- Slow production hampers competition with power looms. Govern- port. ment schemes inadequately support weavers, and lack of creative lib- erty limits unique designs. Addressing these weaknesses is vital for This time-honored craft fosters collective pride and cul- advancing and sustaining the handloom sector. tural preservation while empowering the local commu- nities. Market Scenario | 107","PPORTUNITIES THREATS Opportunities for the handloom industry involve collaborations with The handloom industry faces threats due to occasional designers and entrepreneurs to infuse fresh perspectives, innovative de- usage of its products by consumers and transportation signs, and effective marketing strategies, ensuring sustained growth and challenges, including bad roads. competitiveness. Government-led awareness campaigns highlight handloom textiles\u2019 im- portance, showcasing weavers\u2019 skills and cultural significance. The intro- duction of artisan cards add credibility to the artisans\u2019 craft, strengthen- ing the handloom sector\u2019s identity. These opportunities present a promising outlook for the industry\u2019s growth and cultural significance. Market Scenario | 108","Fig. No. 10.2 Donyi Polo flag seen in village area Market Scenario | 109","During our visit to the Nyishi village, we observed the skills and the lives of the Nyishis as a tribe. In our expedition as we traveled across the state, we saw ourselves worrying more and more over whether we would find the backstrap looms in the midst of the technological revolution that seemed to have gripped the weaving industry of the tribe until eventually, on the third day, we found ourselves in the Dobam village where technology and tradition seemed to have had a successful marriage. There, at a weaving unit, we saw the place to be, while effectively working, lacking some technical points that could streamline the process. We observed an interesting aspect wherein design drafts and lifting plans were absent, with the artisans relying mostly on their expertise to execute the designs, which is a remarkable skill that could be enhanced by incorporating graphs for simpler storage and future use. The creation of drafting and lifting plans on graphs also has the potential to enable the efficient mass production of many products. Although the creation of the fabric took place in the unit, we found that further sewing and tailoring are done in the village instead of having an in-unit sector that can sew and tailor the final fabric on-site. During our time in the unit, we were met with kindness and joy by the artisans and found that the unit\u2019s owner, Ms. Nabam Yapi, allows the people of the village to also try their hands at weaving in order to save the craft and interest more minds in the beautiful work of fabric\u00a0creation. Market Scenario | 110","Artisan Profile | 111","CHAPTER 11 ARTISAN PR FILE Artisan Profile | 112","Fig. No. 11.1 Artisans Artisan Profile | 113","Tabakai Tana Rumi Tabakai is an artisan who An artisan who has a very likes to stay quiet most of the cheeful personality. She times and specialises very well spends most her time while into the skill of bobbin wind- weaving on the loom as well ing. as helping others around her. Age- 40 years old She has a very calming per- Working since- 3 years sonality and often stays with- Contact- (+91) 690969520 in herself. Artisan Profile | 114 Age- 70 years old Working since- 6 months Contact- (+91) 9612514688","Dipika Daimary Deepshikha Patir Deepika\u2019s main focus remains She is a person with shy per- in supervising the artisans as sonality and specialises in the well as helping them in the task of weaving. process of weaving. Age- 40 years old Age- 34 years old Working since- 2 years Contact- (+91) 7630811525 Working since- 1+ year Artisan Profile | 115 Contact- (+91) 6002234419","Jilimoni Buruah Somaina Wary Jilimoni was mostly seen Somaina is a young artisan working alone on the loom. who exhibits specialty in She specialises mostly with weaving and great efficiency. the task of weaving. Age- 22 years old Working since- 1 year Age- 35 years old Contact- (+91) 6009879125 Working since- 1 year Artisan Profile | 116 Contact- (+91) 8822026035","Harsila Basumatary Sanu Basumatry Harsila is a very lively person Sanu is a very young artisan who has gained initial skill who takes inspration from her with weaving on looms as sister and practices the skill well as sewing. of weaving. Age- 22 years old Age- 19 years old Working since- 1 month Working since- 1+ month Contact- (+91) 8453820815 Contact-(+91) 7099677768 Artisan Profile | 117","Nabam Yapi Tana Yulung She is a Manager at Dopik She is an artisan who specia- Multipurpose Society Weav- lises into the main skill of ing Unit which was estab- weaving and likes spending lished in the year 2012. most of her time in the weav- ing unit itself. An all rounder woman who Ms. Tana has the inability to manages all the artisans as hear or speak but yet works well as provides her creative very hard while working. insight into various operations Age- 60 years old of the weaving unit. Working since- 7 months Contact-(+91) 8414917683 Age- 50 years old Artisan Profile | 118 Working since- 2 years Contact-(+91)9856206738","Fig. No. 12.1 Warp threads on back- strap loom Conclusion | 119","CHAPTER 12 C NCLUSION Conclusion | 120","EXPERIENCE Our expedition to study the Nyishi tribes presented numerous chal- who imparted profound knowledge about Nyishi culture and folk- lenges. The initial three days were dedicated to locating the villages lore, and the esteemed house of Ms. Fepi, where we sought shel- that preserved the elusive art of backstrap loom, while the majestic ter from the rain while receiving insight into sericulture, which she dawn-lit mountains offered a soothing respite with their mesmer- and her friends passionately pursued together. She even delighted in izing views. On the third day, we found refuge under the esteemed dancing with us and treating us to local Mebia. Mrs. Nabam Yapi of Upper Dobam Village and her weaving center, a contact graciously provided to us by Ms. Leki. Our quest for further discoveries led us to the serene Nyder Namlo, a visit after which we were blessed with the presence of the remark- Throughout our journey, we encountered many gracious and knowl- able backstrap loomers. These skilled artisans joyfully imparted edgeable individuals from the state who willingly shared their in- knowledge about their craft and showcased their exquisite products. sights about the villages we were visiting. We were deeply touched by the generosity and warmth of the Nyishi people, with our fifth During our visits to the center, the endearing workers patiently an- day marveling at the kindness evident among the villagers of the swered all our inquiries, guiding us through their journey of crafting Dobam settlements like Mrs.Gymar Nimey, and her neighbors, who Nyishi clothing. To our delight, on our final day, Mrs. Nabam Yapi gift- enthusiastically exhibited their traditional attire, allowing us to ed each of us a shawl meticulously crafted in the same weaving unit. photograph their abodes with a proud smell on their faces and a laugh on their lips. Though our journey was arduous, fraught with moments of sorrow and weariness, we emerged wiser and more experienced, gaining As we delved deeper into our exploration, we encountered more newfound confidence from braving the challenges that came our helpful individuals like Mr.Gollo Tania, way in pursuit of \u00a0our\u00a0research. Conclusion | 121","CONCLUSION The handloom sector of India, despite continually growing, remains to be one of the biggest unorganized economic sector. Handloom spans the entirety of the country, being one of the oldest crafts of the country. The northeast, too, has a rich heritage of weav- ing which extends to the state of dawn-lit mountains. The Nyishi tribes, the largest tribe of Arunachal Pradesh, are also known for their handloom weaves which are distinctive by their motifs that are influenced by their vivacious culture. The fabrics, once made on backstrap looms, seemed to now be largely made on shuttle looms for quick, large and easy production. While the technology has brought progress to the tribe, it certainly has caused a dwindling to the essence of their culture, with more and more Nyishis leaving behind their tribal past to dust. As the power of machines take hold on their handlooms, the gales made by shuttle may just trickle to extinction as it seems to be doing to the art of backstrap. Conclusion | 122","GLOSSARY D H A Dan- Woman Haas - Cat Dass - Food Haat- Enter Aabe- Father Derab - Utensil Hato- Come here Aal- Day Donyi - Sun Hogo - Where Aambing- Rice\/Chawal Dotu- Please seat\/Baithiye Huli- Raw vegetables Aamch- First harvested rice Dugu- Food\/Khana Huks,Hoofi- Waist Belt Abang- Elder brother Dumpe- Traditional Hairstyle Hukum- Plate Abutani- Forefather Dumping- Women head jewellery Humnam - Worship Akh rommo- Eri leaf Ani- Elder sister E I Ania- Handsome, Beautiful Anney- Mother Eajmannan- Loom Ikh - Dog Eajman bou- Weaver Irri - Pig B Eaj telennan- Cloth beam Iss - Water Eagey- Basket Ipot - Get down Bermeh- Younger sister Embin = Rice Boro- Younger brother J Bosuta- Headle G Books- Used for keeping Dao knife Junghang- Jewellery worn from necl to waist Getum- Bamboo Basket C Goto - Speak K Changjum- Hearth\/Chulha Khumt - Pray Changpar- Used for rice grinding Kiak- Space above Hearth for drying out meat Che channan- Treadle Klyan- Group of people Chens- I know Koji- Bangle\/ Kangan Churpa- Threw Kyokum- Kite Bord Conclusion | 123","L O S Laep- Sheet Opu mannnan- Shuttle Saho tuiginnan- Creel Latam- Waist Belt Sangree- Banyan tree\/Peepal Letum- Traditional white cloth used as Wraparound P Seho- Bobbin Lileak- Uncooked, Raw\/Kaccha Singien- Lake Lorha- Cauldron Paapi- Small basket Payo lincho- Thank you T M Pertan- Eri silk Pharej- Shawl Taan- Yarn Mekum- Cucumber Podum- Top plait of Bopia Taan lumden- Spinning wheel Muda- Seating tool Puinya- Spoon Taan telennan- Warp beam Murto- Arrows Taap- Reed R Tagosan- Plant leaves ate by silkworm N Tamish- Raagi\/Madwa Rapki- Top Cover for Hearth Tapio- Maize Naamlo - House Rikum pada- Folk Dance Tape- Pumpkin Naka- Roof of house Roring dungsing- Ghost\/Bhoot Tasang- ornament Nambang- House touched with Ground Ruburokoi- Loin loom Namja- House which are lifted from Ground Rubung- Lease rod U Nekta- Ornament Rubum- Backstrap loom Niangnam- Cooked\/Paka Ruekio- Warp beam Umbing- Rice Niniankyo- Herald sticks Rukpi sonar- War dance( Performed by Male) Umiyu- Poison Nyamndek- Chilly Rupu- Hen Upio- Used for preparing rice\/Soop Nyider Namlo- Place for worship Rushi- Cane Nyok- Earth Ryukchak- Knife Y Nyubh- Priest Yala bobar- Butterfly Yuchek- Small knife Yuib- Traditional spices Conclusion | 124","BIBLIOGRAPHY https:\/\/www.indianetzone.com\/82\/traditional_dress_nyishi_tribe.htm https:\/\/shaan.academy\/indias-tribal-communities-the-nyishi-tribe-of-arunachal-pradesh\/\/ https:\/\/www.researchgate.net\/publication\/316871894_ETHNO-MEDICINAL_PLANTS_USED_BY_NYISHI_TRIBE_OF_ ARUNACHAL_PRADESH_INDIA https:\/\/www.travelhippies.in\/nyishi-tribe-attire-arunachal-india\/#:~:text=Nyishi%20Tribe%20Dress%20for%20Men%20 in%20Arunachal%20Pradesh%3A%20Par%20Eij,-Par%20Eij&text=Men%20and%20women%20of%20the,the%20auspi- cious%20occasions%20and%20celebrations http:\/\/nmhs.org.in\/pdf\/Progress_Reports\/Annual%20Repot%202018-19\/Govinda%20Pagging\/Annual%20progress%20re- port%202018-2019.pdf https:\/\/www.travelhippies.in\/nyishi-tribe-attire-arunachal-india\/#Nyishi_Tribe_Dress_for_Men_in_Arunachal_Pradesh_ Par_Eij https:\/\/www.livemint.com\/Politics\/Z5LU09eXYcF5jzckMfWRHJ\/The-Nyishi-and-the-hornbills.html https:\/\/www.sentinelassam.com\/north-east-india-news\/arunachal-news\/nyokum-yullo-festival-to-be-celebrated-by-nyishi-of- arunachal-pradesh-523237 Arunachal Pradesh and the tribe- Sipra Sen Dances of Arunachal Pradesh - Niranjan Sarkar Arunachal Panorama - J.N Chowdhury Indigenous houses in Arunachal Pradesh: Manifestation of Traditional Architecture Conclusion | 125","Fig. No. 12.2 Our team with the team of weaving cluster TEAM Conclusion | 126","TEAMMATES Pavni Joshi Nabanita Maity Ayushi Sharma Photography, Layouting, Research, Illustration Research, Content Writing Photo Editing, Research Anjali Kumari Mohammad Azhaan S Ragul Research, Content Writing Research, Content Writing, Photography Market Scenario | 127 Paraphrasing","Photo Gallery Conclusion | 128"]