sanganer craft documentation

Pg.34. Types of Synthetic Dyes- https://image.slidesharecdn.com/dischargeprinting-140503100857- phpapp02/95/discharge-printing-3-638.jpg?cb=1480085326, https://fluidan.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/Banner-image- RheoStream%C2%AE-FCRheoStream%C2%AE-FC-for-Quality-Control-in- Paint-Production-for-Quality-Control-in-Paint-Production.jpg, https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images? q=tbn:ANd9GcSWP4_0UMOOHNuxFOa5JD9tXm38nY8AIjQdOdfAiNm KQxtqe-Eb, https://www.pinterest.com/pin/349380883562946159/?hcb=1, Pg.35. Wooden Block Photograph- Kartikji, block print artisan Pg.36. Block Making Process- Mrunalini Desai Pg.37. Block printing in progress Photographs- Kartikji, block print artisan Pg.38. Stepwise blocks images- https://dsource.in/sites/default/files/resource/sanganer-block- printing/downloads/file/sanganer-block-printing.pdf Pg.39. Metal block image- https://www.dsource.in/resource/block-printing- sanganer/making-process Pg.40. Metal blocks images- https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-- uzZJkEC7_s/W3yv68BimkI/AAAAAAAA56g/B8tVqEBYIKYIMVA- pnieBiqQ2XK_h1sMgCLcBGAs/s1600/handcarved%2BIndian%2Bwood%2 Band%2Bbrass%2Bstamp%2B3.jpg Pg.41,42. Section Dividers- Muskan Balyan Pg.44. Washing image- https://images.app.goo.gl/nrGN7MAyMxTDgwZY9 Pg.46. Marking of fabric- https://www.dsource.in/resource/block-printing- sanganer/making-process Pg.49. Printing Process- Mrunalini Desai Pg.50. Equipments image- https://www.dsource.in/resource/block-printing- sanganer/making-process Pg.51. Colour adding printing Process- Mugdha Kulkarni 97

Pg.53. Drying of pigment images- https://jaipurcitypost.wordpress.com/2013/04/14/sanganeri-block- printing/amp/ Pg.55. Dhulaai- https://gaatha.com/syahi-begar/ Pg.57. Effect of weather- https://gaatha.com/syahi-begar/ Pg.59, 60. Section Divider- Muskan Balyan Pg.61. Elephant motif and overall print background- Mrunalini Desai Pg.62. First Buta- Mugdha Kulkarni Pg.62. All other butis- Asmeet Kaur Pg.63. Camel border, Elephant border, Parrot motif- Mugdha Kulkarni Pg.64. Natural style, marigold motif- Mugdha Kulkarni Pg.65. Decorative Style 5 butis- Mugdha Kulkarni Pg.66, 89, 90. Bel- Asmeet Kaur Pg.67. Jaal- Mugdha Kulkarni Pg.68. Key features border- Mugdha Kulkarni Pg.69. Key features 2 mirrored floral butis- Mugdha Kulkarni Pg.70. Market & Products- Mrunalini Desai Pg.72, 73. Products images- https://www.itokri.com/search? q=sanganer%20&f.Crafts=sanganeri%2520prints. Pg. 74. Characteristics of a good product- https://i.pinimg.com/564x/00/62/39/00623908b65586b40dda3da522ebd 0f2.jpg Pg.75. Failed products- https://images.squarespace- cdn.com/content/v1/5abecd597e3c3a242ca074b8/1534275551443- WGIIRVZ0K5UKRKT0KB0Z/block+printing+mistakes , https://images.squarespace- cdn.com/content/v1/5abecd597e3c3a242ca074b8/1534277653055- XTKEVB4ZCF3LV9EFTDTF/block+printing+mistakes?format=1000w 98

Pg.76. Export & packaging- https://www.akdn.org/where-we-work/west- africa/c%C3%B4te-divoire/economic-development-c%C3%B4te-divoire? hcb=1 Pg.77. Difference between Sanganer and Bagru- Mrunalini Desai Pg.79, 80. Section Divider- Muskan Balyan Pg.81. Socio-economic effect of block printing- Mrunalini Desai Pg.82. Artisan printing fabric with wooden block photograph- Kartikji, block printing artisan Pg.83. Health hazards- https://static01.nyt.com/images/2017/09/19/science/19SCI-DYE1/19SCI- DYE1-superJumbo-v5.jpg , https://cdn.cnn.com/cnnnext/dam/assets/200924133627-02-fashion- textile-dyeing-large-169.jpg Pg.84. Future of craft- Mrunalini Desai Pg.86. GI tag image- https://blog.ipleaders.in/wp- content/uploads/2021/06/Geographical-Indications_Featured-Image- 702x336.jpg Pg.88. SWOT analysis- Mrunalini Desai Pg.91, 92. Section Divider- Muskan Balyan Pg.93. Avdheshji- Mrunalini Desai Pg.94. Kartikji- Mrunalini Desai 99

GLOSAARY A 1.Angarkha- ethnic top that has an asymmetric opening, knotted or secured by either thread ties or loops B 1.Babool- gum yeilding tree 2.Bel- leaves and flowers in a border 3.Bhant- composition of flowers and plants 4.Bhils, Minas, Lohras- Tribal communities of Rajasthan 5.Bichhaunas- bed spreads 6.Bichoo buti- small scorpion motif 7.Brahmavarta , mehrangarh, rewari- regions of Rajasthan 8.buta, butta- larger motif consisting of various elements/ butis 9.Buti, butti- small decorative motif C 1.Chang -folk dance 2.Chhipa- community of block printers 3.Choli- blouse, paired with ghagra 100

D 1.Dakh- grapes 2.Datta- filling blocks 3.Dholak- medium sized two sided drum 4.Dhoti- rectangular piece of fabric warped around the waist 5.Diwali- festival of lights 6.Dupatta- 2&1/4 meter fabric to be drapped in two folds over the chest and thrown back around the shoulders in a 3 piece suit G 1.Gangaur- celebration of spring and harvest, worshipping Lord Shiva and Paravti 2.Genda buti- small marigold motif 3.Geru- red mud 4.Ghagra- flared full length skirt 5.Ghoomar- folk dance 6.Gulab- rose H 1.Harda- type of mordant 2.Hari Sarana- washing of cloth before printing process 3.Hiran- deer J 1.Jaal, Jaali- net 2.Jajams- floor coverings 101

K 102 1.Kalbeli- folk dance 2.Kamal buti- small lotus motif 3.Kasumal- mud red 4.Kathputli- puppet 5.Keri- raw mango 6.Kharawati- community of block makers 7.Kharbuja- Melon L 1.Lal- red 2.Lal hirmich- red chilly M 1.Machali- fish 2.Makar Sankranti- kite festival 3.Mela- fair 4.Moong- pulse 5.Mor buti- small peacock motif 6.Morani- peahen 7.Mulmul- sheer cotton fabric N 1.Namda- sheeting fabric P 1.Pajama- loose trousers 2.Parth- folk dance 3.Patti- leaf 4.Pila Karna- mordanting with harda powder

R 1.Rajput- ruling community 2.Rajputana- name of a clan 3.rekh- line, here outline S 1.Sarangi- String musical instrument 2.Saraswati- name of a river 3.Saree- 6 meter fabric to be drapped 4.Sher- lion 5.Singh baal buti- small lion hai motif 6.Sitar- String musical instrument 7.Sosan, genda, gulmehndi, javakusum, guldaudi, kachnar, jatadhari lily, kaner, kanna, gullalla- local flowers 8.Sukhaai- drying 9.Syahi- black T 1.Teej- festival for all women, married and un-married worship Shiva and Parvati 2.Toru Phooli- yellow Z 1.Zadna- removing the residual harda powder 2.Zari- gold/ silver threads spun around a core 103

REFERENCES 1.Isha Foundation. Sanganeri Block prints. https://isha.sadhguru.org/in/en/outreach/save-the-weave/indian- weaves/sanganeri-block-prints. [Online]1990-2021. [Cited: 08 20, 2021.] 2.JAIPUR FABRICS. Sanganeri Prints: Where Does This Beautiful Artwork Come From? https://www.jaipurfabric.com/blog/sanganeri-prints-where- does-this-beautiful-artwork-come-from [Online]02 07, 2020. [Cited: 08 20, 2021.] 3.D’COURCE. Prof. Baral B, Divyadarshan C. S. and Lija M.G. Sanganer Block Printing. Bengaluru D'source Tools and Raw Materials | Sanganer Block Printing | D'Source Digital Online Learning Environment for Design: Courses, Resources, Case Studies, Galleries, Videos (dsource. in) [Online] [Cited: 08 20, 2021.] 4.The Beading Gem. Charan Creations' Beautiful Hand Carved Indian Wood Block Stamps Charan Creations' Beautiful Hand Carved Indian Wood Block Stamps - The Beading Gem's Journal [Online]09 30, 2020. [Cited: 08 20, 2021.] 104

5.Pallu Design. The Fabric Printing Block https://www.palludesign.com/blogs/news/block-printing-the-block [Online]04 16 ,2016. [Cited: 08 20, 2021.] 6. Puja Sarda. Abhipedia app. Chippa community of Rajasthan- The traditional dyers https://abhipedia.abhimanu.com/Article/State/ODM4MzAEEQQVV/Chippa -community-of-Rajasthan---The-Traditional-Dyers--Rajasthan-State [Online]2020. [Cited: 08 20, 2021.] 7. F, Gupta. 2017. Difference Between Bagru And Sanganer Prints. faridagupta.com/blog. [Online] 08 28, 2017. [Cited: 08 20, 2021.] https://www.faridagupta.com/blog/difference-between-sanganer-and-bagru- printing.html. 8. Gillow J, Barnard N. 1991. Block Printing. Traditional Indian Textiles. London: Thames and Hudson Ltd, 1991. 105

9. Government of Rajasthan. Government of Rajasthan Official Web Portal. [Online] Government of Rajasthan. [Cited: 08 15, 2021.] https://rajasthan.gov.in/AboutRajasthan/Pages/default.aspx. 10. Prof. Baral B, Divyadarshan C. S. and Lija M.G. Sanganer Block Printing. Bengaluru: s.n. 11. sstkglitch. 2017. Shutterstock.com/blog/india. The Growing Popularity of Indian Block Printing in the Global Design Arena. [Online] Shutterstock, 09 18, 2017. [Cited: 08 07, 2021.] https://www.shutterstock.com/blog/india/growing-popularity-indian-block- printing-global-design-arena. 12. womensummerclothing. 2019. Bagru and Sanganeri Print main Difference. medium.com. [Online] 11 5, 2019. [Cited: 08 20, 2021.] https://medium.com/@womensummerclothing/bagru-and-sanganeri-print- main-difference-91825d9a9f1e. 13. Kamthan, Akash. 2012. All about Sanganeri Hand Block Printing - Dekha Andekhi (Winner of Best Documentary). youtube, 2012. 14. Craftmark. 2012. A Lasting Printing - Block Printing in India. youtube and Craftmark, 2012. 15. Rajkumar, Arvind. Aug 06, 2012. india1001. [Online] india1001, august 6th august, Aug 06, 2012. [Cited: August, 2012.] https://www.india1001.com/blogs/1001_crafts/6381040-block-prints-of- sanganer. 16. April 02, 2021. The Gems of Jaipur: Sanganer and Bagru Block Prints. Sundari India. [Online] Sundari silk India, April 2nd April, April 02, 2021. [Cited: August 12th, 2021.] https://www.sundarisilks.com/blogs/article/the- gems-of-jaipur-sanganer-and-bagru-block-prints. 106

17. Google maps. Location of Sanganer. [Online] Google. [Cited: 08 26, 2021.] https://www.google.com/maps/place/Sanganer,+Jaipur,+Rajasthan/@26.810 5605,75.7390398,13z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x396dca6cc31968b1:0x30a5a 0acd5c3017b!8m2!3d26.8191641!4d75.7659513. 18. [Online] Research Gate. [Cited: 09 01, 2021.] https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Kapilesh-Jadhav- 2/publication/315479176/figure/fig1/AS:738586446028800@1553104139430/ Map-showing-location-of-sampling-site-Samples-were-collected-from- Sanganer-industrial.ppm. 19. 2020. Sanganeri Prints: Where Does This Beautiful Artwork Come From? Jaipur Fabric. [Online] Jaipur Fabric, 02 07, 2020. [Cited: 08 28, 2021.] https://www.jaipurfabric.com/blog/sanganeri-prints-where-does-this- beautiful-artwork-come- from#:~:text=Sanganeri%20is%20a%20method%20of,place%20in%20the%2 0textile%20industry. 20. 2021. Sanganeri textiles: The Block Print Textiles that Vowed the World. www.livehistoryindia.com. [Online] Live History India, 05 07, 2021. [Cited: 08 26, 2021.] https://www.livehistoryindia.com/story/living-history/sanganeri- textiles/. 21. 2017. The Fabric Printing Block. [Online] Pallu Design traditional handmade textiles, 04 27, 2017. [Cited: 08 26, 2021.] https://www.palludesign.com/blogs/news/block-printing-the-block. 22. Kaur, Jasminder. 2017. Flora and Fauna Motifs in Sanganeri Print. www.researchgate.net/publication. [Online] Research Gate, 06 2017. [Cited: 08 26, 2021.] https://www.researchgate.net/publication/330713229_Flora_and_Fauna_Mo tifs_in_Sanganeri_Print. 107

23. Pareek, Shreya. 2018. Block Prints of Rajasthan: A Fading Fable and Artisans’ Efforts to Save the Art. thestoriesofchange.com. [Online] The Stories of Change, 2018. [Cited: 08 27, 2021.] https://thestoriesofchange.com/block-prints-rajasthan/. 24. 2010. Sanganeri hand block printed textiles get GI tag. www.fibre2fashion.com/news/textile-news. [Online] fibre2fashion, 05 05, 2010. [Cited: 08 25, 2021.] https://www.fibre2fashion.com/news/textile- news/newsdetails.aspx?news_id=85627. 25. sanganeri prints products. www.itokri.com. [Online] Itokri. [Cited: 08 20, 2021.] https://www.itokri.com/search? q=sanganer%20&f.Crafts=sanganeri%2520prints. 26. Gaatha. 2015. Syahi Begar. www.gaatha.com. [Online] 04 2015. [Cited: 09 02, 2021.] https://gaatha.com/syahi-begar/. 27. Fiber2Fashion. 2010. Sanganeri hand block printed textiles get GI tag. www.fiber2fashion.com. [Online] 05 05, 2010. [Cited: 09 06, 2021.] https://www.fibre2fashion.com/news/textile-news/newsdetails.aspx? news_id=85627. 28. Sharma, Tanya. 2020. Geographical Indication (GI) Tags of Rajasthan. www.theippress.com. [Online] 08 30, 2020. [Cited: 09 05, 2021.] https://www.theippress.com/2020/08/30/geographical-indication-gi-tags-of- rajasthan/. 108