Trad Climbing Basics - VDiff Climbing

Trad Climbing Basics£ By Donation Second Edition. December 2017

Contents Introduction 5 Trad Gear 16 Trad Anchors 57 Ropework 85 Next Steps 110VDiff – Trad Climbing Basics 4

Can I Trad Climb?Yes! different rope techniques. This is so you understand why each technique is used,Learning to trad climb is similar to learning and therefore you'll be able to adapt themto drive a car. It takes time, effort and for any situation.commitment. It can be dangerous if youdon't know what you're doing, or very safe So, learn the skills and practise themonce you become competent. safely. Start with small adventures to build up your problem solving ability before youThis guide focuses on the physics behind move on to anything bigger. And remembertrad gear and the reasons for using to have fun!………..Peak District, England. Climber: Lucy Creamer. Photo: Jamie Moss (see more here).

Trad Climbing Basics Using Trad GearAssasin, Gogarth, Wales. Climber: Lee Roberts. Photo: Jethro Kiernan.

Trad Gear: Cams 17Cams are reliable and versatile pieces oftrad protection that are designed to beplaced in parallel sided cracks, where nutswon't work.A cam has three or four lobes mounted onan axle. Each lobe is shaped according toa mathematical logarithmic spiral, so theangle between the lobes and the rock isalways the same, no matter how retractedthe cam lobes are. This means that thecam will work at any point of it's size range(more on this later).When a cam is weighted, the lobes areforced apart, converting the downwardsforce into a huge amount of outwardspressure on the sides of the crack. It is thisoutwards pressure which holds the cam inplace.When you place a cam, its springs keepthe lobes pressing out on the sides of thecrack, creating just enough friction to keepit in place. Because cams rely on thisfriction to stay in position, make sure toonly place them in clean, dry cracks. Mud,water or ice reduces the friction and cancause the cam to slide out during a fall.Learn more: www.vdiffclimbing.com

Cams Part 1: The PlacementStep 1Pull the trigger to retract the cam lobes andslot it into the crack.Step 2Release the trigger to allow the lobes toopen up and make contact with the sidesof the crack.If the lobes open up all the way, try abigger size.VDiff – Trad Climbing Basics > Using Trad Gear 18

A Good Cam Placement 19All lobes retracted evenlyCam is in the middle sectionof its range of movementFits completely inside thecrack without being too farbackEach lobe makes contactwith a smooth, straight-sidedpart of the crackStem points in the direction ofloading, usually down andslightly out from the rockRock is clean, dry and solidLearn more: www.vdiffclimbing.com

Cams Part 2: Size 20Correct SizeThis is the ideal cam size for the crack it isin.The strongest and optimal placement iswithin the middle section of the cam’srange of movement. You should aim toplace every cam like this.Too BigThis is 'over-cammed' and will be verydifficult to remove. Use a smaller cam ifpossible.Too SmallThis is 'tipped out' and will be very unlikelyto hold a fall. During a fall, cam lobes oftenslip down the crack very slightly beforebeing pressed outwards.In this case, at least one of the lobes islikely to open completely to it's maximumrange, causing the cam to slip out of thecrack. Use a bigger cam.VDiff – Trad Climbing Basics > Using Trad Gear

Cams Part 3: Flared CracksA flared crack is one which becomesnarrower or wider at one side. Cracks canbe flared in any direction.Upward FlaresThe placement in this slightly upward-flared crack is very good. If the cam slipsdown slightly during a fall, it will remainsecurely in the crack.Warning This means that it will either wiggle out ofWhen a cam is placed in an extremely position or be impossible to retrieve. Thisupward-flaring crack, as shown below, it is caused by movements in the rope ascould easily 'walk' upwards. you climb above.Learn more: www.vdiffclimbing.com 21

You can reduce thechance of this byextending the cam with asling or quickdraw.An alternative would be touse a nut or a hex instead.Downward Flares Cams can hold in very slightly downward-The downwards flare of this crack is too flared cracks, but it is best to look forgreat for the cam to hold. In the event of a parallel-sided or slightly upward-flaredfall, the lobes will continue opening until cracks.they reach their maximum, at which pointthe cam will fall out of the crack.VDiff – Trad Climbing Basics > Using Trad Gear 22

Cams Part 4: Horizontal Cracks 23Cams can be placed inhorizontal or diagonalcracks.In these types of cracks,placing your cam with theouter lobes on the bottommakes the placementmore stable.Flexible stemmed camswill bend around the edgeof the rock and maintaintheir strength.Rigid stemmed cams willlever over the edge,causing damage to thestem.Cams Part 5: Passive ProtectionCertain types of cams canbe used passively (like anut). However, in thissituation nuts wedge intoplace better.So unless you've justdropped them all, you'llprobably be better placinga nut instead.Learn more: www.vdiffclimbing.com

Cams Part 6: RemovalTo remove a cam, simply pull the trigger If your cam trigger is unreachable, use theand slide it out. Sometimes you may need hook on the end of your nut tool to pull it.to wiggle it around constrictions in the rock.Cams Part 7: Racking 24An efficient way of racking cams is to putthem in size order on your harness withtheir own separate colour-codedcarabiners.If you have small cams on a front gear loopand bigger cams further back, they'll beless annoying as you climb.VDiff – Trad Climbing Basics > Using Trad Gear

Method 5 – Attaching to Two or More PointsStep 1 Step 2Clip the rope through the furthest away Attach a screwgate to your rope loop andpoint, then walk to your belay position. then clovehitch the rope to it, just the same as method 3.Step 3 Step 4Repeat steps 1 and 2 with the second Tie your rope to the third point using apoint. clovehitch, as described in method 2. You can fine-tune the clovehitches to equalize the three points.Advantages Best Situation to Use This Method- You can use this method to equalize as If you arrive at a belay with no slings ormany points as you need. Just keep cordelette.repeating steps 1 and 2 until you'veequalized all your pieces.Disadvantages from your- Uses up a lot of rope.- You must belay directlyharness.VDiff – Trad Climbing Basics > Trad Anchors 74

How to Attach a Prusik to the RopeStep 1 though four wraps are generally enough.Wrap the prusik around both ropes a few Pull the knot tight, make sure it is neat andtimes and then clip the ends together with the double fisherman's knot is away froma screwgate carabiner. More wraps will the ropes.create more friction around the ropes,……..Step 2 HarnessClip the prusik to your leg loop. The prusik Leg Loopwill slide down the ropes if you hold it closeto your leg loop and lock around the ropes 100if you let go. Test this before you abseil.If it doesn't lock, take it off and re-tie it withan extra wrap around the ropes.If your prusik loop is too long, it's possiblethat it could jam into your belay deviceduring the abseil. If this happens, it can bedifficult to control your descent. To avoidthis, you can extend your belay device witha sling (see page 105).VDiff – Trad Climbing Basics > Ropework

Abseiling Part 6: Check the SystemBefore you unclip your attachment pointfrom the anchor, check: Solid Rope threaded through Correctly tiedanchor main point of anchor abseil knot cm30 Prusik knot Both ropes through Knots added belay device to rope ends Holding both ropes beneathbelay deviceLearn more: www.vdiffclimbing.com 101

Get the Full VersionThe full version of this e-book is available You can download it for free, or show youron a pay-what-you-want pricing system, support with a small donation.starting at £0. Get your copy here: https://gumroad.com/l/VDiff-TradLearn How To: Further Information:- Place cams, nuts and other trad gear * Perfect for those who want to start trad- Build trad anchors climbing.- Use different belay methods (including * 200+ accurately drawn, full-colourguide mode) illustrations.- Equalize and extend gear effectively * Step-by-step climbing techniques- Understand forces on climbing gear explained in a beginner friendly way.- Abseil safely (including using a prusik) * Updated December 2017- Climb with half ropes- Test rock quality- Prepare for your first trad leadPlus much more.