What is COLIN’S current position in Would you tell us about COLIN’S store 051TFF MAGAZINE APRILthe denim market? network in Turkey and the world? Today, in which markets are COLIN’S available? WhatWe have international markets that we directly manage will be your target market?all of our operations in the world mainly in Turkey, Russia,Ukraine, Belarus, and Romania. The greatest characteristic We operate more than 200 stores in the country. We aim to be one ofof these markets is the young population we possessed... the most preferred Jean-centric apparel brands by young people in theCOLIN’S is a dynamic and fresh brand, so we firmly believe strategic markets and to help them enjoy their life more. Within this missionthat the potential in these regions is a very valuable asset and vision, we attach great importance to young people and work to takeand opportunity for us. We are working to become a leading steps to strengthen our ties that we build up with young people both asJean-brand in Russian and Ukrainian markets. We have been customers and employees. In terms of employee satisfaction, it is alsothe “Best Clothing Brand” in the Retail Awards for 4 years in among our target-list to be one of the three most admired companies in theUkraine, and in 2016 we were chosen as the most preferred garment sector.apparel brand in Belarus by young people. In 2017, we becamethe most preferred brand in the category of “Jean Store If it is abroad, we try to do our best to maintain the steady approach weChains”, outnumbering many world brands in “the number have been pursuing for years and the success we have demonstrated in1 category of the Year” contest held in Belarus for 16 years. our local organization. There are 328 stores abroad, mainly in Russia,We believe that all these achievements add significant global Ukraine, and Belarus. Romania and Georgia. Among our future goals,value to our brand. We will adamantly continue to work to we have placed both domestic and overseas growth plans. We plan tocontribute to the growth of these achievements that have pursue opening stores in streets and shopping malls where we believegained on the global scale.. that it will add value and bring us closer to our customers. We also attach great importance to bringing our stores to different parts of Anatolia andWhat are your goals for 2018? mingling them with more young COLIN’S lovers..We firmly aim to work harder to actualize our long-term In overseas, we pursue to open 70 new stores over the next 3 years. Theseplans by 2018 too. It is also one of our essentials to invest in 5 store activities will densely focus on our current strategic markets and thenew markets until 2020. We are competing with the world’s newly emerging markets that we are planning to step in. We will continue to increase the number of stores in Russia. We also conceive African and leadingt prestigious jean brands in Far Eastern countries, Greece and Slovakia as eye-catching markets for Russia, Ukraine, Turkic Republics, COLIN’S. Especially we aim to concentrate our investments in Algeria, Balkans, Europe and the Middle East. Tunisia, Morocco, and Egypt. Among these markets, we have opened our We are one of the 3 best-known first store in Morocco in early 2018. We intend to invest in the whole North jeans brands in Russia. That is why, African countries within 3 years. we pursue to be one of the 2 world- renowned Jean-brands in above- mentioned markets until 2020.
Which international denim exhibitions COLIN’S joins as a brand? One of the requirements of being global is to take part in organizations that offer both the opportunity for cooperation and the opportunity to measure the pulse of the world retail sector. This is because international promotion is an important part of our marketing strategy. In this sense, we do care about participating to such internationally-held fairs abroad. MAPIC 2017, the last fair we had attended, was a coordinating point that brought together prominent brands in the retail sector. In this respect, we had the opportunity to meet with several dedicated entrepreneurs who wanted to follow the significant game-changers in the sector while representing our brands in their countries. We will continue to participate in similar fairs in the up coming period.TFF MAGAZINE APRIL How do global jean trends resonate in Colin’s? Would you tell us about this season’s prominent theme?052 We attach great importance to product range in in line with the seasonal trends are going to take our Jean collections. In our collection, there are place in our new collections. We have a wide jeans, shorts, skirts, dresses, shirts, vests and range of products offering the latest trends to our jackets that tick all the boxes of those who feel consumers. This year, we will often encounter younger and especially the young between 18-25 with jeans designs enriched with different years old. In addition to classic and indispensable washings, detailed legs, and accessories. jean patterns, the new models and fits shaped One of two people is wearing Colin’s in Russia. We can see the similar situation in 38 more countries. What is the success story behind this? Which markets you will be located in the near future? As COLIN’S, we aim to mushroom in markets where network from a single logistics center all over the the rate of the youth is densely high. Among the world. In all the countries we are in, we carry out most important reasons to be pre-emptive in our activities in a customer-centered manner. such markets, there lay our efforts following the latest trends in the fashion industry. Additionally, In the countries where the products are sold, we reflecting our collection in the best precise take into consideration the characteristics of the manner parallel to our customer’s demands, our young population of those countries.For example, frock models, and fitly alternatives could also be we have jeans pants and snow breaker coats exemplified among these reasons to be preferred. produced for the cold weather for the Russian We can also quickly adopt the fashion trends and region only. renew our product range every month. On the production and quality side, there is Eroglu In addition to all these advantages, the strategies Group, a specialist institution which has proven that we apply to each country by evaluating itself in jean production for many years and serves different market experiences correctly enable us to for the World-renowned brands. We also have the take a step forward in these regions.. ability to take quick action through our shipping
COLIN’S Jeans fest is happening in 600 stores located in 38 countries and also incolins.com.tr will it continue in the following years?Yes, it will definitely continue. We are trying to programme all our campaigns and make a stride in global vision, taking into considerationboth our domestic and international markets. Jeans Fest is the most interesting campaign we have received in this respect. We havebeen carrying out Jeans Fest for about 8 years every August and September, by which our costomers will await excitedly. Jeans Fest, animportant brand association at the same time, begins simultaneously both in Turkey and in the world.In 2017, we launched the campaign with an advertising film that we used young people, who were the target audience. In addition to our5 largest stores, we have planned a wide-ranging campaign that includes events such as TV, cinema, social media and open air in thecountries where we operate. Our campaign has drawn great interest from abroad mainly Russia, Ukraine, Romania, and Belarus. We alsosupport our advertising projects via communication activities, and come together with the leading fashion writers and bloggers from all overthe world. We get effective results when all of these achievments combined together. The reason why we are one of the 3 best-known jeanbrands in Russia and have been chosen the best clothing brand in the Retail Awards for 4 years in Ukraine and the most preferred brand in2016 by youngsters in Belarus, are the result of our collaborative work.. 053TFF MAGAZINE APRILWhat are the latest customer behavioursnowadays in the denim market?Today’s technology has created a strong consumer profile thatconstantly communicates with each other, in and around the world,making consumers able to speak effectively on brands. At this verypoint, it is very important to pay attention to the expectations ofthe consumer by placing emphasize to technology at the clothingand retail levels. We use technology to increase productivityboth in production and marketing and to strengthen customersatisfaction. We are closely following innovative developments thatwill accelerate us in the fields of production and logistics and try tointegrate them into our production processes.
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Pls describe what denim & jeans 055TFF MAGAZINE APRILmeans for you? I like the way of rebellion, freedom and diversity ofdenim& jeanWhats your expectations for thefuture denim?Our generation only interested in to grow technologyin this industry and now is our role S are getting moreimportant to lead real sustainable chains.we re theones who actually see and understand better effectsof industrial revolutions to the mother earth.I takeseroiusly Not only marketing numbers or campaigns todrive end consumers to sell more .instead encouragethe real progresses and developments In productionand marketing side of this business. And create thereal standarts of ours with my denim colleagueswho invested their life and passion on it.Then cominggenerations keep up with us denim spirit thru cleanerperspective.If you had another chance whatyou would be your career? haveanother passion for your life?Architecture its all about people environment andculture.and gives you chance to add your creativitywhats your doing on.Same as denim industry.
TFF MAGAZINE APRILYour favourite brands? Designers? Olivier Rousting creative director of Balmain Raf Simons for Calvin Klein Your favourite jean? Customized high waist second hand Levis from 80 s is my favourite item in my closet. but in daily work I also prefer high performanced stretch skinny jeans for its comfort. Your favourite city/place? Sure Istanbul is the best where I m leaving but as second choice London is my favourite.I like the vibe of streets and people.Timeless and mixed.056
057TFF MAGAZINE APRILWhat you want to say about Turkish denim industry?Turkish denim community had made a great progress and either be part of this organization or not and create brandbecame the leader of technology and creativity. Fabric mills and one voice of Turkish denim industry. In this level weand garment factories supplies best service and products are talking about branding our country and appreciate allto all denim and fashion brands for the last 10 years.As partners inputs. If we drive the technology why not leverageI worked for years with companies in different projects I made in Turkey brand.would say as Turkish we re eager to be frontier and havepotential to make it possible all ideas. Intelligence and On the other hand world is about to change soon. All wecreativity fuelled companies technological success in this know humanity facing up dynamic technology, changecountry. Also proximity to the Europe always have been of climate, demographics, empowered consumergreat advantage for us. But now is the most important thing profiles&needs, scarcity of resources, robotics...etc. There isis to keep up our place in the industry. For that reason I really no only competition to deal with anymore. We are in positiontake seriously which i ve been doing with UTIB organization to manage all without sacrifying time. If we achieve to createfor Turkish denim industry. Our aim is to support each single synergy for us we may drive cleaner industries together.
INTERVIEW ITNUCRKRIESAHTIDVEAESYIROGOUNOENM:GR Selin In this TFF Magazine volume, there is a young Turkish designer, Selin Akman. Having started to work in Isko- creative Room Italy, Selin thinks that Denim is a cult and that excitement is a never-ending invention. The designer Akman who has beendoing her jobwithgreat care and love decided to work with denim as soon as she graduated. In her designs, Selin says she likes to analyze and reflect people and she is inspired by every single detail in life…TFF MAGAZINE APRIL Would you please introduce yourself? How long have you been working under the roof of Isko as a designer? I am Selin (27) a Turkish Canadian designer living in Italy since I started working for Isko- Creative Room Italy 5 years ago. Creative Room Italy is the design department of Isko. I studied Fashion design In New York Fashion Institute of Technology and in Istanbul technical University. When I graduated, I decided I wanted to work in the Denim business but it was a bit hard because in University we never studied Denim so I decided to start from the core and learn everything I could about the denim fabric. Isko was the best place for me to achieve this. Designing denim has become a big passion for me throughout the years. Denim is a cult, an invention where the excitement never dies. I guess, at this point I cannot even think to live without it. With this fabric, I can do so many things. It is very variable and it is so interesting to see how the end-result can change through weaving, diversity of fibers, tinting, styling, washing, accessories and even labeling. Long story short, LOVE it.058 Isko is an internationally recognized brand. Would you briefly explain how isko contributes to world denim? Isko is one of the most important ingredient brand in the world. We can easily say this because Isko never stops inventing. Here in Isko we are always working on innovations. What is very important is that we all work in a team whereas following the trends and always being in contact with the R&D department on future trends on fabric also, we are always researching on new washing techniques and applications. This helps us to be always to the point in our collections and I believe we are very successful on this.
ISKO™‘ mission is to always keep in touch with the How many creations are you producing per year? And how do you “ 059TFF MAGAZINE APRILlatest trends and also to anticipate times. ISKO™’s “research centre is certified by the Turkish government progress during the process of collection production?and it consists of more than 25 textile engineers,specialists in creating new denim products. Thanks We create two collections in a year. Fall winter and spring summerto its investments on innovation today ISKO is very collections. In addition to this in Creative room Italy, we make our ownstrong with its patented technologies especially on capsule collections every season focused on either one type of fabric or allelastic denim fabrics. the fabrics in the collection. The collections need a wide range of research for the fabric and for the styles. We spend a lot of time figuring out what isRather than this, ISKO™ has a strong eco- missing in the market and what can be new. We create the styles that matchcommitment, backed by sustainable production. 10% the best with the fabrics, choose the suitable wash and accessories and inof new ISKO™ fabrics are produced from recycled the end, we apply the labeling in which we try our best to be always fashionmaterials, a filtration and treatment plant to clean forward. Every small touch is very important for us.water is used in the manufacturing process, toredirect the water for other industrial and household “Every small touchpurposes. This helps us to create more eco-sustainable designs. is very important for us.Would you like to talk a little bit about the effects of innovative What are the advantages to work with denim fabric?approaches and researches on your designs? Working with denim is very cool itIt is very interesting to have innovative fabrics that is very versatile the end look of theour R&D department works on because this pushes garment differs so much on the style,me to think of a different way of designing whereas fit, threads that we use and wash. I havebeing more ergonomic. I need to know the nature of so many ways that we can experiment.the fabric to create the best design to have the use of It is a living fabric; it fades and shapesstretch, comfort or other specialties of the fabric. This according to its wearer. Denim is alsois also very important to create a story on my designs. in so many people’s lives from manyNo design can be made only because it is pretty it different lifestyles the look of it changesshould always have a technical or performance story a lot. It changes if I am designing for anbehind it. This pushes me a lot as a designer and it authentic denim wearer, a fashionista,always widens my creativity. Here in Creative Room a traveler, a sports lover, a skater…we also work with many different brands to helpcreate their collections. Working with a wide range “of brands and designers rather than only workingfor a brand makes you more creative and your brain Isko is one of theshould switch on, off and on again with another point most importantof view. As much as it is tiring, it is very interesting and ingredient brand instimulating. the world.Design trends in the world have a global structure. Do you followtrends closely as a designer and how do you blend these trends intoyour designs?When we are creating a collection, it is not only fundamental to follow the trends on fits, styles, wash, accessories but also lifestyles andinfluencers. The world has become very personalized with the new technologies in social media instruments. I have to consider manycharacters in order to create a design that is suitable for them. I like to analyze the persons and reflect that in to my designs. Therefore,I cannot say I am following a trend. I sometimes even go with my instincts to see where the trend is heading through blogs, magazines,newspapers, films, music etc. I think to be a good fashion designer it is important to know everything that is going on in the world. Whenyou are passionate about design, you never stop working. Anything you experience in your life inspires you.
Comfort is for sure very important in Denim. What What do you think will be the trends in the world’s focus in the coming years? Denim world is getting larger and larger every single day. New designers kind of work do you usually perform so that people are becoming more and more interested in denim. In Isko, we have the program Iskool in which we teach many fashion students how to can experience coziness in clothing? work with denim. I believe in the future more and more new generation designers will understand the nature of denim and fall in love with it like I Comfort is something that is usually very did and we will see more and more new innovative designs. important in the denim world. We are always trying to develop fabrics and styles that makes the people’s lives easier. Right now, we are developing a concept that is definitely very important for denim lovers that travel a lot and need their jeans with them anytime, anywhere but I am not yet to talk about it. I can talk about our blueskin performance, which has 360 degrees of stretch for the freedom060TFF MAGAZINE APRIL of movement. These articles are very important also in the sportive world, we also work a lot with special finishings such has wicking, odor reduce and breathable technologies that are very fundamental for the sports garments. Another line of fabric we have is warp stretch, which gives freedom of movement on the warp but holds the shape of the garments on weft, for me this is quite important especially in the women’s market since we always want to look slimmer but we need also our comfort.
For the future trends, I can say usage of denim gets crazier and stranger where we move away from thetraditional looks. In the last years, we had moved away from the skinny for women and moved on to widersilhouettes. I think this will continue and the most important trend will be to achieve this boyish rigid looks withcomfort fabrics. Another trend that we see now and I believe it will continue for some time is the sports influence.I am a strong believer in premium authentic denim. This for me is something that will never die hopefully. I alsobelieve the strong masculine washes will be a big trend in the future for women. For men’s more rigid looking slimstraight silhouettes not heavily washed but scraped down and resin effects with 3 dimension shaping will beimportant in the future of men’s denim trend.I believe in the future more new generation 061TFF MAGAZINE APRILdesigners will understand the nature of denimand fall in love with it like I did and we will seemuch more innovative designs.Finally, anything you want to add...Please feel free to address your achievements,partnerships, and the areas you want to prioritize...Finally, I would like to say I it is a bigpleasure for me to work with denim andI would like to see many more youngdesigners working with this fabricbecause I cannot wait to see otherpeople’s reinterpretations, their ideas onthis canvas. I am very happy to have hadchosen my career around this field andcannot wait to create, invent and grow.
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064 PINARTFF MAGAZINE APRIL TAŞDELEN ENGİN ULUDAG TEXTILE EXPORTERS’ ASSOCIATION CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD OF DIRECTORS
Would you like to introduce yourself in brief? 2018 will be a year of mobilization for Turkey in the field of 065TFF MAGAZINE APRIL employment. What do you think will be the potential of the textileHaving completed my education in Textile Engineering industry within this context and what tasks will be undertakenin 1999, I started working life in Polyteks Textile, under by UTİB through this policy?the Taşdelen Group. Polyteks Textile was founded in1986 by Mustafa Taşdelen, my father. In a short span of The textile sector is one of the locomotive sectors of the Turkishtime, it has become one of Turkey’s and Europe’s largest economy due to value-added and demonstrated performance.and most reputable manufacturer of polyester yarns. Moreover, it is one of the most employment-intensive sectors andI am currently on the management board of Taşdelen of great importance to our country. The total number of peoplegroup where I had the chance to work in different working in textiles and garments amount to 1 million. When wepositions in my 19 years of business life. I am integrate industries such as retail and mass merchandising, thisengaging in introducing the products of the company number approximately doubles to 2 million. Therefore, we contributeon domestic and foreign markets, and the external greatly to the social stability of our country. I think that the potentialrelations of our companies along with our marketing of the Turkish textile sector is extremely high, especially in terms ofteam. value-added production.As you well know, I was serving as the vice chairperson In many countries of the world, many people; specifically thoseof the board of directors of Uludağ Textile Exporters’ in the upper segment needs are using our textile products withAssociation. I was elected as the Chairperson of the pleasure. In the saturated and rising markets where competition isBoard of Directors at the general assembly meeting, very dense like Europe and North America, our sector is exportingheld in April. As UTİB, we organize many national successfully.and international events in order to contribute We have an extremely strong image in the global markets; weto the achievements of Turkish textile exporters’ have a machine park with state-of-the-art technology, flexiblemembers and to represent the industry in the best production capability, the ability to produce special products, and away possible. These include congresses, workshops, workforce with high qualifications. We have companies that receiveDesign Competitions, International R & D Project international design awards. The game-changers in the industry areMarkets, national participation in international fairs, notable for their high-quality production capability, high productionprocurement delegations, trend areas, and seminars. capacity and advanced technology, as well as trendy designsOur events are open to all members. We are working creating new trends. In this context, one of the main goals of ourconstantly for the development of our industry. industry is to carry on long-term achievements through our brands.
066TFF MAGAZINE APRIL What are the expectations for 2018 regarding the denim yarn As Taşdelen Group, we are trying to support our customers, production? Can you please tell us about the technologies our business partners, in producing products that increase the that are currently leading in yarn production? competitiveness of the market and add value to them. In line with their expectations, we can produce differentiated products Denim is an ever-growing sector in the world and never loses according to the distinctive area of utilization. its importance. Consumers’ needs and fashion are dynamic Recently, we see increasing demand in yarns that improve the and change every season. Denim has been one of the most performance of clothes and prevent pot appearance. For this successful textile sectors that closely pushes ahead this purpose, we are trying to meet the needs of our customers by dynamism parallel with trends and innovations and even create developing high-quality yarns with flexibility and recyclability its own trends. Denim fabrics are an integral part of our lives features and durability and moisture management. with because of its elasticity, close-fit, durable and comfortable There is intensive work on recycling on textiles. All units in features. the textile chain began to take steps to reduce environmental The mobility we have seen in the denim sector in recent years pollution. The recycling sector is an important step in continues unabated. As far as we see and follow, flat products sustainable production and development and is a must to be are highly stylish, comfortable and popular in-demand due to supported. In this direction, we are trying to enrich our product close-fit feature, combinability with products of different styles, range which is produced from the recycled raw material that we wearability in special and daily occasions. developed in our company.
In addition to the UTİB Presidency, you are undertaking the 067TFF MAGAZINE APRILChairperson of the Board of Directors at Polyteks. Would youbriefly talk about your company’s works on denim yarn andthe innovative products that will be presented to the textilesector in the up-coming period?Trends in industry are constantly changing. We are continuouslyrenewing our product range accordingly. At this point, keepingour product range up to date in line with the needs and demandsof our business partners is our top priority. We are closelyfollowing the trends by attending many fairs, seminars andsymposiums both at home and abroad.While consumer’s expectations are increasing day to day,producers have to foresee these trends. Needless to say, acertain process is required for a product to be offered to theconsumer and we are just at the beginning of this process as araw material producer. We adopted developing new productsand improving our product range continuously with R&D andP&D activities we have carried out with our customers as aprinciple.For example, we are currently producing yarns that giveelasticity to the fabric, such as staple gipe yarns, mechanicalstretch yarns, and PBT, a polyester derivative, obtained bycombining polyester and polyamidines with elastanes. Theseproducts are widely used in denim sector thanks to theirelasticity, soft touch, longevity and strength properties.Our newest generation of elastomultiester yarns, which havebeen recently added to our range of fabrics, providing flexibilityand lycra performance, close-fit, comforting, soothingmoves, draws considerable attention. We also produce withphosphorescent yarn shining in the dark. This product has alsobegun to be tested by denim firms. As Taşdelen group, our goal isto present at least two new products every year to the use of thedenim sector.What are the 2018 predictions on denim exports? Whichmarkets will Turkish producers gravitate to in 2018?As a result of the investments made, we anticipate that theexports of our country will increase in 2018 compared toprevious years. Turkey is among the most respected countriesin the world in the value-added premium denim production.We must always invest in technology and innovation to protectour presence in the denim sector. Moreover, as in every field ofproduction, design is one of the most important factors in raisingthe added value of products and in ensuring that you have a sayin the international market.Our priority markets are mainly Europe and America. This yearwe want to increase our exports to the Far East market.As one of Turkey’s most successful industry, One of the maingoals of our denim sector should be to take a respectable andlasting place in international markets with our own brands.
068TFF MAGAZINE APRILTextiles, one of Turkey’s leading sectors. Recently, billion dollars with an increase of 3% compared to last year. We e-commerce has become very important along with also increased our exports 12% in the first month of 2018. In the technological developments. How would you evaluate our first month of 2018 we achieved 12%. growth. brand’s activities in this area? Merchandising sector has been one of the sectors most affected by technological developments in recent years. When 2017 had been a very turbulent and challenging year worldwide. we look at Turkey, especially the last 10 years, we see that the The new US administration’s conservative economic choice of consumers shopping channels radically changed. approaches, the Brexit in European Union, the changes in the Consumers nowadays can now meet all their needs more easily interest rate and the negative developments in the Middle and faster on the internet. The increase in the importance East have created a turbulent period in the world economy. of online shopping was also extremely profitable for brands. Our textile sector has succeeded to increase export under Brands can now reach far more customers at much smaller these tough conditions. As of the end of 2017, Uludağ Textile costs. Turkey is among the countries using the most all over the Exporters’ Association has realized export of 1 billion 177 million world. Brands also devote most of their investments to internet dollars with 3% increase compared to last year. Turkey’s textile advertising and internet retailing. I think the importance of exports in a manner similar to our Association accounted to 8.1 e-commerce will increase year to year..
Would you like to shed light on Turkey’s current position in own brands in this market. In this context, it is very importantthe apparel industry? to add innovations to our successful branding process..Turkey raises its significant importance in the world markets with itsAs you know, Turkey is currently one of the first countries that very successful and quality products in both weavings of denimpop up when you think of quality denim. The Turkish attitude fabrics and finishing operations together with apparel. Turkeyfrom production to promotion, from quality standards to has ranked third in the world in Denim fabric exports and asmarketing has reached a very advanced level. Taşdelen Group, we are one of the polyesters yarn suppliers ofAs a country, we are the 3rd largest exporter in the world the most important denim manufacturers in Turkey. We areafter China and Bangladesh in denim garment sector. Our proud of knowing that the denim products containing the yarnsEuropean market share is around 11%, which is an important we produced are exhibited in the most prestigious markets inpercentage, but I think we can reach 20% level by creating our the world.Turkish brands have succeeded in producing a brand 069TFF MAGAZINE APRILawareness that can compete with the world in termsof denim. Projects like Turquality are very importantto increase export potential and brand awareness.In this context, how do you scale the projects thatare actualized in the field of textile in our country?The Turquality support program is a very importantproject that supports companies in an institutional,financial and operational sense. Turquality, inparticular, has given a great deal of power to potentialfirms on the verge of becoming a global brand. In thisway, I think that the integrative projects are veryimportant for the promotion of our country. If we wantour country to be more successful in the textile sector,we have to develop high value-added and innovativeproducts. Therefore, all companies need to acceleratetheir R & D projects.Turkey is way too much advanced than many of itscompetitors in terms of international health andenvironmental standards. In technical textiles, we havea great potential that has not yet been fully realized.Bursa Technology Coordination and R & D Centercarry out its activities in order to integrate the powerpotential of the game-changer in the sector to makethem move in coordination and integrate the technicaldevelopments in the world without losing thefollow-ups.
PA R I S NEWDASYHSOW WtoEDFRNIEDSADYAYS E PT. 1 9 - 2 1 | 2 0 1 8CLOUD OF FASHION YARNS | FABRICS | LEATHER 11/05/2018 14:21 DESIGNS | ACCESSORIES | MANUFACTURING PARC DES EXPOSITIONS, PARIS NORD VILLEPINTEPremiereVisionParis_TFF-MAGAZINE_220x300.indd 1
INTERVIEW Would you I live in Milan and have please tell us always been Passionate about Photography and about yourself Underground culture. a bit? What I deal with publishing that rages from action does Denim sports, streetwear and mean to you? Denim culture. I belong to a typical Italian family of the 60s immigrated to the north in search of work. At then time Denim was an essential indium for a low class family. Each piece was passed to the younger brother, every head was passed to theTFF MAGAZINE APRIL younger brother is my mother who was sarte sheltered the best very072 head these memories are those that will remain in me forever. The more I grew up and began to make request to my mother how to prepare me denim accessories, such as bag and hats, and sometime I would castomize my trousers with drawings.
MCRUIRSITAIANNNI Charge of The Overall Magazine and Denim BoulevardWhat do you A fabric with so much history 073TFF MAGAZINE APRIL think about I do not think it exists. It the denims fascinates me to tell people how it has accompaniedplace in daily each af us in our lives. when life? In your the people understand the opinion, how authenticity of this Fabric, a world of adventure and stylea good denim opens up. should be? I would like my work to be dedicated to denim communication showing its traditions and style. In the future they will collaborate with a fashion school (Acof) to start a course dedicated to denim with my point of view enhancing the authenticity an the history. In Vintage denim you can taste the true use of this garment that tells itself how it was born where it born who used it and that i work in fact over the years.
Would you tell I live in Milan and have ''It fascinates me to'' us about your always been Passionate about Photography and tell people how it has experiments Underground culture. accompanied each of and works with I deal with publishing us in our lives denim? Do you that rages from action sports, streetwear and Denim culture. work on vintage I belong to a typical denim and what Italian family of the 60s kind of other immigrated to the north in search of work. At stuff you are then time Denim was working on an essential indium for a low class family. EachTFF MAGAZINE APRIL except vintage piece was passed to the denim? younger brother, every head was passed to the younger brother is my mother who was sarte sheltered the best very074 head these memories are those that will remain in me forever. The more I grew up and began to make request to my mother how to prepare me denim accessories, such as bag and hats, and sometime I would castomize my trousers with drawings.
075TFF MAGAZINE APRIL'' The more I grew up and began to'' make request to my mother how to prepare me denim accessories, such as bag and hats, and sometime I would castomize my trousers with drawings.
INTERVIEW COLORFUL, SOPHISTICATED, UNIQUE… TUKUTUKUMTFF MAGAZINE APRIL076All the products of TukuTukum, offering a colorful, joyful and luxurious world to its customers, are handmade and produced in Turkey. The name of TukuTukum is named after the designer and at the same time means “the passion of Tuğba’’. The designer, who says women must be brave and reflect their style, defines the target group of his brand as powerful, bold and fashionable women who believe in creativity, quality, and design. As TFF Magazine, we have listened to Tuğba Kuzdere Yorgancıoğlu, the designer of TukuTukum, whom we had an enjoyable interview with regarding the story of TukuTukum’s unique designs especially designed for the brand. Would you like to detail the story of TukuTukum’s brand ? Hi, first of all thank you for the interview. I am Tugba Kuzdere Yorgancioglu, born in Istanbul went to Ankara for the university and did my masters of ‘fashion marketing management’ in Milan. Worked for Ugo Cacciatori and Costume National in Milan then came back to Istanbul and ran an agency of fashion consultany for designers and brands. In 2014 my baby TukuTukum was born and in 2016 I got an investment from Arya Womens Platform. I created TukuTukum to combine the quality of production in Turkey with unique and modern patterns. All our products are handmade and made in Turkey also the patterns are unique because I draw them specificially for the brand. The name of TukuTukum comes my name and also refers to the ‘passion of Tugba’. We are available in Vakkorama, Wepublic, Giziagate, Thesky, S9 Boutuque / Ankara, Touch & Feel / İzmir, Lookbook Designers/ Adana. Shop online at: www.tukutukum.com , www.lidyana.com , www.hipicon.com And we do export in countries
What kind of products do you 077TFF MAGAZINE APRIL have in Tukutukum’s product range and how do you define the target mass of your brand? I work also as a stylist and I don’t believe in fashion trends. Women has to be brave and reflect her style in each moment so do the TukuTukum lovers. They are strong, brave and stylish women who believes in creativity, quality and design. I have started with silk scarves, now we do have bandanas, beachwear, bags and winter accessories. The color range of TukuTukum is very large and the designs are striking. How do you explain your brand’s design philosophy? Believe in yourself, reflect your soul with patterns and color your day with TukuTukum!s such as: Maldives, Australia, China....
078TFF MAGAZINE APRIL The accessories are actually big complemantary supplements. What inspires you when you carry out your designs? I am inspired by cultures, my travels and nature. Also strong caracters I meet or we all now as celebrities inpire me a lot. What are the elements that stand out the most in your new collection? Nature, the caracteristic of animals and the spiritual things we believe in such as ‘evil eye’.
079TFF MAGAZINE APRILWhat are the future goals of your brand?We do want increase our global salespoints and have a concept store in Turkey.Finally, anything you want to add..Come and discover this colorful, enjoyable,luxury world wit us. You can follow us fromour social media accounts: “tukutukum”.
Y&uEnluizsaINTERVIEW We interviewed Yunus & Eliza who do some of the jewelleryTFF MAGAZINE APRIL080designing for Game of Thrones with Michele Clapton, the tv series followed by millions. We discussed their inspirations, how they found them self in the Tv series and so on... Yunus & Eliza has won a lot of awards and looks like we will see them a lot in 8th season of Game of Thrones. Can you tell us about yourself as Yunus Ascott and Eliza Higginbottom? How did you come up to start together with the idea of building your Yunus & Eliza Jewellry Y- We met in a fine art casting foundry in West London where I was finishing a master apprenticeship. E- The brand itself was an accident, we made a small sculpture and realized it worked as a ring, a journalist saw it when Yunus was wearing it out one night, and asked to feature it in the paper. He asked our brand name and we laughed, shrugged and said ‘Yunus & Eliza’? You are designing the Game Of Thrones line. What inspiration did you make when designing these jewels? Will this partnership with the tv series continues in the future? E- We work closely with the Game of Thrones costume designer Michele Clapton, so we are inspired by the storylines of the characters, what the piece of jewelry needs to reveal about the wearer, for example Khaleesi’s jewelry symbolizes her warrior status, and juxtaposes both her strength and fragility. Y- Yes, Season 8 filming is taking place now, using pieces we have designed especially. These designs can be bought online from our sister company www.mey.london
You also took place in Design Week created by Ministry of Y- Yes, people often comment that owning a piece of Yunus &Economy and Turkey Exporters Assembly. How was your Eliza is like owning a sculpture, something monumental andexperience in this event? empowering.Y- We loved it. We were very impressed with the event, and Despite being a fairly young brand, in 2010 you won the talentenjoyed our panel discussion. award given by the British Council and Elle magazine, as well as the Designer of the Year award at the 2011 London JewelE- It was a real treat to be in Istanbul, what an inspiring city. Week. Can you tell us about these awards, process to get them and what they mean to you both?You have indicated that you are inspired by sculptors in yourdesigns. What elements do you consider when you reveal a Y- The BFC / ELLE Talent Launch Pad was a very pivotal momentjewel? for us, we joined the fashion scene.E- We think about form as a whole, the back and side of our E- We went from being relatively unknown to having Helenapieces will be as considered as much as the ‘front’, the design Christensen wearing only our jewels on the front cover of theshould resonate. ELLE UK 25 year anniversary edition. “we are inspired by the “ TFF MAGAZINE APRIL storylines of the characters 081How do you reflect your creativity elements in your designs?Are there any other objects you are designing besidesaccessories?E – Yes, we create bespoke interior for many clients. We did achandelier for the jewelry editor of British Vogue.Y- We enjoy working on this larger scale. We are designing doorhandles, taps and baths for a hotel at the moment.
082TFF MAGAZINE APRIL All of your designs are handmade, each accessory you created is a piece of art, do you only work for special customers who order a custom thing? Or anybody can find and buy your jewelries? If yes, where they can find them? E – All our work is custom made, but customers can buy signature pieces which we make to order.
“Alcluostuormwomrakdies“ 083TFF MAGAZINE APRILAnd last question speciallyfor Mr. Yunus. Do you thinkTurkish culture has an effecton your design works?Y – I think there is no doubt Ihave been inspired by comingto Turkey often as a child, bymy grandparents and mymother’s culture.
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THE METROPOL CITY OF DENIM: LONDON Nudie Jeans 085TFF MAGAZINE APRIL Nudie, a Swedish denim brand, also offers a lot ofFrom the world’s first subway system to the London possibilities for denim lovers in re-using their denim’s inUnderground, from traffic lights to the theater and historical London store..buildings that built on every street as to journey you throughtime, London has always been a city in the lead to many A.P.Cintriguing places to visit and see, and it also harbors areas A.P.C, a French ready-to-wear brand, founded in 1987 bywhere the heart of fashion beats.. the Tunisian-Jewish born designer Jean Touitou, is one of the denim stores you can visit on Redchurch Street...DISCOVER LONDON’S STREET…There are so many great attractions to tick off, your city Topshopsightseeing checklist could get very long indeed. Oxford Another shop on Oxford Street is the world famous Topshop.Street is at the top of the must-see places that simply We don’t necessarily have to tell that each of its Denimcannot be missed. You can buy any kind of affordable collection is indissociably and astonishingly beautiful.product from shopping malls on the street and find theopportunity to relieve in cafés. Piccadilly Circus is hosting Start Boutiqueto ‘Lord Shaftesbury’ statue that you are familiar with the Designed by stylist Brix Smith-Start, the Start Boutique iscinema. The area, crowded at night, is also very attractive located on Rivington Street. The store, offering both men’sdue to its colorful human circulation. and women’s department in the interior, reveals collectionsLocated in the West End of London, Covent Garden is that is the appeal to everyone...renowned for its luxury fashion and beauty stores as wellas award-winning restaurants and theatres like ‘Royal Fleur BOpera House’. Let’s not forget the London’s biggest bookstore Fleur Bird is the owner of the fleur b boutiques in Duke Streetwhich is located here in ‘Stanfords’. Baker Street is home and Chelsea Green in London, opened in 2008. When youto Sherlock Holmes’s famous house 221b. Now the house take a look at Fleur B, situated in 8 Elystan Street, London,number 221b is being used as the Sherlock Holmes Museum. You will see clothes inspired by Denim’s of Anne, Paige andLondon’s famous ‘Madame Tussauds Museum’ is also on Victoria Beckham, ready-made garments from Carven andthis street. Buckingham Palace is striking as the official Goat and Ellie Lines and the 1970s..residence and workplace of the royal family. In this region,you can visit Queen’s Gallery and Big Ben, where the royal Trilogyfamily’s collections are exhibited. Among other must-see If there is a well-sewed jean that perfectly designed for you,places, you should see London EYE, Tower Bridge, Greenwich Trilogy team has a reputation for finding it. In the store, thereObservatory, Shakespeare’s Globe Theater, Warner Bros are plenty of products as well as brand new products comingStudios, The British Museum, Natural History Museum and from AG, Current Elliott, and J Brand..Tate Modern...London, continiously on the front burner thanks to thefashion weeks organized, have succeeded in attractingthe attention Fashion lovers. If you are planning to shopin the city, we surely recommend you take a look at therest of our caption.Fashion’s Dazzling Adventure is on London Streets ...Harrods Shopping Center is the world’s most famousdepartment store online with the latest men’s and women’sdesigner fashion, luxury gifts, food, and accessories...
LONDON CFAISTHYIONTFF MAGAZINE APRIL086 From the punks, mods and casuals right through to the has immense pride in its many unique movements – from modern day grime renaissance, London has a long street grime MCs to aged Camden punks and Jamaican reggae culture history, the presence of which can be felt all across heads – giving it an energy that cannot be found anywhere the city’s (and world’s) fashion landscape. Whether it’s else, and ensuring that it’s designers have an ever-evolving, Cottweiler reinterpreting tracksuits through an avant-garde, rich world of subcultures from which to draw inspiration minimalist lens, Nasir Mazhar’s no-holds-barred celebration from.From Vivienne Westwood through John Galliano and of London’s diverse underground music scenes or Palace Alexander McQueen London is the city brought fashion’s Skateboard’s throwback adidas athletic gear, London’s crop most outrageous designers. The support that Britain offers of young brands are reinterpreting their country’s illustrious to its young designers – whether they were born in London subcultural heritage for the 21st century, spearheading a is unrivalled. Importantly, the guidance from institutions new wave of avant-garde streetwear in the process. like the British Fashion Council encourages creativity and personality – nobody’s telling anyone to rein in their ideas to Cultural Diversity appeal to the mass market, or that unique breed of human who buys everything through a personal shopper. While New York is an ever-changing whirlpool of fickle trends and Paris and Milan hold the keys to the world’s Presents the best independent retailers, department stores opulent luxury houses, London’s spirit is above all one of and spanking new London flagships that offer the finest diversity. It is a hugely diverse, fiercely independent city that menswear in the country - and a wish list of items.
Liberty Oxford Street – High street brands 087TFF MAGAZINE APRILRegent Street, W1 TopShop,River Island,M&S,Next,All Saints,Debenhams...etcThis iconic arts and crafts, founded in 1875, building playshost to the best of British and global designers. Carnaby St The KooplesHarvey Nichols Channelling a French oh so cool vibe combined with British109-125 Knightsbridge, SW1 dapper tailoring, The Kooples make the just-get-out-of-This “townhouse boutique” in Knightsbridge holds a concise bed look cool – for guys and girls. Think vintage style withedit of key pieces from international designers and a wide modern twists, but the clothes are designed to look good inselection of cult items from Californian and Japanese denim. any era. Great for stocking up on the wardrobe essentials that make every look work.Harrods87-135 Brompton Road, Knightsbridge, SW1 Scotch & SodaThe world’s most famous store has a luxurious international Dutch high street brand Scotch & Soda has burst onto theportfolio to match, including the finest leather goods and fashion scene in the last few years with their well madewatches. basics – think great T-shirts and denim jackets that will last for years. Vintage styles are here for sure, but they’re not soDover Street Market in your face and some of the men and women’s ranges could18-22 Haymarket, SW1 double up as work wear. The Carnaby Street store also hasThe offer includes every CDG line and top fashion names the Amsterdam Blauw denim collection.including Gucci and Palace.Selfridges Vintage and second hand400 Oxford Street, W1The Oxford Street flagship boasts the world’s one of best In the East End of London lies one of the most culturallyshopping place. mixed and artistically fruitful areas: Shoreditch. Home of the cozy Book Club, the historic Golden Heart and the world-Soho, with its network of tiny streets and endless eating renowned Whitechapel Gallery, Shoreditch is renowned foroptions. Soho has some of London’s most unique and most its abundance of wondrous vintage outlets. We find ten ofbrilliant shopping. From picking up boxfresh rare trainers to the best vintage shops in Shoreditch.rummaging in the best vintage stores – you’re guaranteed tocome away with something unusual and there are plenty of Blondie Vintage,Absolute vintage,blitz,Rokit Vintage,Vintagenew designers to discover along the way. Heaven,Beyond Retro,Blondie are the some of them .
GMALROKBEATL&DTUERNKIEMY in briefTFF MAGAZINE APRIL088 New actors in denim fabric export have emerged in global markets. Source: ITC Trademap China Pakistan Turkey India and Egypt have increased their Turkey’s denim textile productiona and exports export was realized as USA Italy Mexico Brazil Spain have 369 million USD in 2017. reduced their denim fabric production Tunisia, Egypt, Italy, and exports during Morocco and Bangladesh are the top 5 markets we the last 15-20 years export. Source: ITC Trademap
Source: ITC Trademap 2017 Turkey has exported 1.7 billion TFF MAGAZINE APRIL dollars of of denim clothing.In 2017, 328.7 million denim garments During the last 15 years Turkey’s denimwere exported to Spain with an increase clothing exports increased 4 times. theof 22%. main market of Turkey’s denim clothing19% of total exports of clothing is made in exports is Europe. Countries with thethis country. largest share in Turkey’s denim clothingIn the same period, our exports to exports, respectively; Spain, Germany,Germany increased by 7% to USD 307.3 the United Kingdom, the Netherlands andmillion. Denmark. In 2017, we achieved increaseWe exported $ 266.3 million worth of in our exports 8 of our top 10 markets.denim clothing with an increase of 8% tothe UK, which is our third export partner. 089 Source: ITC Trademap Source: ITC Trademap When we have a look at our competitors: ITALY (From 1970-2000 was leading the textile industry in terms of design and fashion. Now Turkey is taking its position) GERMANY (High value added products, technical textiles, at the same time, our partner and competitor in the Europen Market) CHINA (World number one producer and exporter of textiles and clothing, competition in terms of costs is difficult) INDIA (Backward in terms of technology and innovation but undergoing extensive transformation through high investment in these areas) PAKISTAN (difficult to compete in intermediate goods due to low costs) UTIB Ekrem Arslan
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denim kitap Indigo: The Color that Changed the World Catherine Legrand Indigo is a color that has shaped many cultures throughout history and has an important place in textile design. In the book; Indigo: ‘’The Color that Changed the World’’, the author Catherine Legrand searches for this mysterious backdrop of color and unveils the methods that reflect the indigo color. This book, presenting a fascinating study on the history of color is investigating the production of Indigo textile products in this region by stretching to Japan, China, India, Africa, Central America, Laos, and Vietnam. The book, which contains more than 500 photographs, reveals the variety and process of the Indigo application. Catherine Legrand, who has been traveling for over twenty years and has been researching on the subject, has worked for years, exploring the various cultures of the world in order to bring together countless clothing, human figures, and fabrics from the Indigo world.092TFF MAGAZINE APRILdenim film The Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants “The Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants,” where Ken Kwapis sits in director’s chair, has a story adapted into a film of the same name by Ann Brashares. In the cast of the film, which was produced in 2005; there is Amber Tamblyn, America Ferrera, Alexis Bledel and Blake Lively. The story of the film goes as follows: “Tibby, Lena, Carmen, and Bridget are four female friends who get along very well. Four best girlfriends hatch a plan to stay connected with one another as their lives start off in different directions: they pass around a pair of secondhand jeans that fits each of their bodies perfectly.Despite being of various shapes and sizes, each one of them fits perfectly into the pants. To keep in touch they pass these pants to each other as well as the adventures they are going through while apart. The film emphasizes the importance of Denim in our lives while shedding light on the fashion of the period. The film, which makes you deeply feel the feeling of friendship, also gives the message that life is worth living and is good, despite all the negativity.
Denim’s place in the music world has stepped up TFF MAGAZINE APRIL with the icons of the music market and has become the indispensable part the whole world. Jean pants from timeless pieces of the fashion world are indispensables of the stage giants. DENIM AS ANINSPIRATION TO MUSIC 093 Because of its worldwide popularity and being an alternative clothing option, denim took its place among the designs of world-renowned fashion giants. Offering a great sense of comfort, chicness, and timelessness, it is always at the peak.
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