Edible Ottawa_July 2021 Digital

NO. 39 JULY/AUGUST 2021 SWEET AND SAVOURY BLUEBERRY RECIPES PASCALE'S ICE CREAM BLUES . WILD BLUEBERRY GIN NATIONAL CAPITAL REGION • KINGSTON • PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY • EASTERN ONTARIO Member of Edible Communities



SPONSORED Kickass neighbourhood eatery fauna is about the things we Award-winning restaurant, season serving up the best handcrafted love: eating and drinking with and local-farm driven small and large EAT steamed buns (bao), killer sides friends and family in a fun space. plates, charcuterie and hearth-oven LOCAL and other tasty crafted eats. Online/ Our menu is seasonally driven pizzas. Expansive gardens, woodland GUIDE phone ordering and safe window and we support local farmers and path, screened-in verandah, gourmet pickup available. producers wherever possible. food store and art gallery. Come feel For more than eight We love the neighbourhood and the love. We look forward to welcom- months, the pandemic space and are so happy to be ing you to our country oasis just 15 has impacted our open in Centretown. minutes from downtown. daily lives, hitting 783 Route 105, Chelsea, Qué. restaurants particularly 365 Bank St., Ottawa 425 Bank St., Ottawa 819.827.8942, fougeres.com hard. It has also drawn 613.454.5963, gongfu.ca 613.563.2862, faunaottawa.ca incredible support from the community Coconut Lagoon’s chefs are serv- We're a coffeehouse here to serve Véronique Rivest: #2 sommelier in for our community. ing up Thali — offering all the 6 (y)our community. Powered by local the world, zero attitude. Organic, As local restaurants different flavours of sweet, salty, purveyors, producers and an in-house biodynamic and natural wines from adapt and pivot their bitter, sour, astringent and spicy roaster., Lulo Coffee, providing directly small producers. Seriously neat operations to protect on one single plate. sourced beans and brews,Arlington 5 stuff in your glass. New wines every sta , customers and to Dine-in or order online at order. is dedicated to turning everyday expe- week. Award-winning small plates position their business thaliottawa.ca riences into moments of connection highlighting local and seasonal for survival, we hope and delight. We offer tasty and whole- products. Laid-back atmosphere. that you continue to 136 O’Connor St., Ottawa some goods in Centretown, and with Just across the river in Old Hull support local food with 613.594.4545, thaliottawa.ca our less visible neighbours, through (don’t be scared – we’re bilingual). the same patience, Cooking for a Cause. Our takeout 88 Rue Montcalm, Gatineau, understanding and window is open Wed-Sun, 9am-3pm. 819.600.7643, soifbaravin.ca voracious appetite. 5 Arlington Ave., @arlingtonfive And while we continue to socially distance Located on Bridge Street in Palmier is serving up premium A regional seasonal Northern from one another, Carleton Place, Black Tartan coffee using a rotation of beans Italian restaurant in the heart of the pandemic has, in Kitchen is a casual fine highlighting sustainable and downtown Ottawa. Our menu is many ways, brought dining restaurant, known creative roasters from around the inspired by traditional and classic the local business for its elegant dining room country. Enjoy daily pastries and Italian, dictated by the quality community closer and exceptional food and service.  comfort food made with local and produce from our local friends and together. Thank you to Our menu reflects the current homemade ingredients, craft beer farmers here in Ontario & Quebec.  Dominion City Brewing season and showcases products and cocktails, all in a modern 226 Nepean St, Ottawa Co. for not only raising from the Ottawa Valley. space tucked into the trees of the 613.232.6289 money to support 132 Bridge St., Carleton Place Gatineau Park. northandnavy.com Gloucester Emergency 613.492.0860 40 chemin Scott, Chelsea, Qué. Food Cupboard, but blacktartankitchen.com 819.827.1777, cafepalmier.ca also for sponsoring our Eat Local Guide, promoting just a few of our region's fine food joints.

TABLE OF CONTENTS This summer, Pascale Berthiaume is preparing ice 4 LETTER FROM THE EDITOR cream tacos, slushies and popsicles and other frozen 7 FIRST BITES treats to sell at pop-up markets POPUP PERSONALITIES since closing her commercial kitchen and retail window on By Zachary Resnick Gladstone Avenue. Photo by Amy Zambonin 11 NOTABLE EDIBLE FREEZIES FOR THE ADULTS 35 ON THE FARM BLUE FRUIT AT NORTHSLOPE FARM By Charles Enman By Hattie Klotze 15 PRO TIPS PASTRY PERFECTION 41 LIQUID ASSETS ARTIST IN RESIDENCE DISTILLERIE By Helena McMurdo By Hattie Klotz 20 BACK OF HOUSE PASCALE'S ALL-NATURAL ICE CREAM 47 THE DISH HARRIET CLUNIE: CULINARY RENEGADE By Peter Simpson By Jennifer Campbell 29 IN SEASON PICKLING PARTICULARS 55 SEASONAL RECIPES SWEET AND SAVOURY BLUEBERRIES By Helena McMurdo By Helena McMurdo 2 edible OTTAWA July/August 2021 64 LAST BITE A CASE FOR THE BLUES By Alexandra Finkeldey



from the editor PUBLISHERS Justin Faubert I’ve never met a berry I didn’t like. I’ve eaten many that made me pucker and Laurie Kizik wince, but none that a spoonful of sugar couldn’t fix. My brother and I would spend summers on our grandparents’ farm, exploring the barns, fields and creek EDITOR/DESIGNER for hours, grabbing snacks from the garden to sustain us. Picking raspberries off Tara Simpson the bush and firing them into my mouth was my favourite bite until something bit me back. I hadn’t taken the time to find the little black bug nesting in the berry’s EDITORIAL CONSULTANT cavity. But it serves me right; she was there first. Since then, the only berries I’ll Jennifer Campbell eat straight from the plant are solid berries that leave no place to hide. CONTRIBUTORS So blueberry picking has become our summer rite of passage. The kids and I will Brendan Burden make a trip to pick with my mom whenever we can, and we’ll often bring friends Charles Enman with us for a second round. With a few pick-your-own blueberry farms in the area Alexandra Finkeldey and numerous growers, finding a blueberry bush to plunder or a pint to pick up at the farmers’ market is the easy part — resisting the urge to eat our harvest on the Hattie Klotz way home is a greater test of will. After learning our lesson over the years, we now Helena McMurdo divide our harvest into thirds — one-third to eat almost immediately, another to Zachary Resnick set aside for baking, and we freeze the rest for use throughout the year. But with the range of blueberry recipes in this issue, especially the savoury ones, it looks Peter Simpson like we’re going to need a third harvest. Amy Zambonin Tara Simpson ADVERTISING Editor [email protected] Laurie Kizik, Sue Smith SUBSCRIPTIONS [email protected] facebook.com/edibleottawa twitter.com/edible_ottawa instagram.com/edibleottawa Edible Ottawa magazine is published six times a year by 6 to 7 Servings Inc. No part of this publication may be used without the written permission of the publishers. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies. Thank you. On the cover: Pascale Berthiaume, owner of Pascale's All Natural Ice Cream, is making edible Ottawa is printed on paper made her small-batch ice cream and cool treats again this summer, including the haskap- of material from well-managed, FSC®- studded dipped ice cream cones she served from the food truck at Rideau Pines certified forests, from recycled materials Farm. Photo by Amy Zambonin. and other controlled sources. 4 edible OTTAWA July/August 2021

BE A PART OF THE TRADITION SOYEZ DE LA TRADITION Marchés d’Ottawa Markets invites all of Marchés d’Ottawa Markets invite tous les Ottawa to explore the historic Parkdale and habitants d’Ottawa à explorer les marchés ByWard markets this season. historiques Parkdale et ByWard, cette saison. 7 days a week, our public markets at ByWard and Parkdale will Sept jours sur sept, les Marchés publics By et Parkdale be bustling with Artisans, Crafters, and all the Canadian produce regorgeront de marchands, d’artisans et de produits locaux et one could ask for. The tradition continues as Marchés d’Ottawa canadiens. Marchés d’Ottawa Markets visent à créer des marchés Markets aims to create exciting and dynamic markets for locals dynamiques pour les habitants et les touristes. Par ailleurs, and tourists alike. 2021 marque le lancement du Marché Fermier de la rue York - 2021 marks the launch of The York Street Farmers’ Market - a un marché de producteurs uniquement offert le samedi, dans le producer only farmers’ market on Saturdays in ByWard. Grab Marché By. Cet été, apportez un masque et votre sac réutilisable a mask and your reusable bag and get ready to shop Saturday et faites des trouvailles, tous les samedis, sur la rue York. mornings on York Street this summer. L’équipe des Marchés d’Ottawa Markets est également ravie Marchés d’Ottawa Markets is also excited to announce the launch d’annoncer le lancement du Marché de Nuit Parkdale. Jusqu’au of the Parkdale Night Market. Expanding the historic and bustling crépuscule, le Marché de Nuit Parkdale proposera de nouvelles Parkdale Market into the twilight hours, the Parkdale Night Market offres uniques dans la région - Tous les mercredis, de juin à août, will feature unique new offerings to the area - Wednesdays, June de 16h à 20h. to August, 4PM - 8PM. Préparez-vous à faire de nombreuses trouvailles, grâce aux Get ready for some great finds as you market hop this season! Marchés d’Ottawa Markets! ottawamarkets.ca fr.ottawamarkets.ca

includes postcard map all picnic boxes feed 2 people + locally-made maple coaster! BOWIE’S BAR $51 PERFECT THYMING $40 • 1 Apple & Brie & 1 Calabrese Panini • Chicken Caesar Wrap & Turkey Bacon Cheddar Wrap • Charcuterie for 2 • Caesar Salad & French Fries • 2 Gourmet Fresh Donuts • 2 Fresh Made Donuts • 2 Craft Soda • 2 Classic Milkshake BOOMTOWN $50 PIZZA PIZZA $45 • 1 Butter Chicken & 1 Chicken Stirfry • 2 Panzarotti • 1 Samosa & 1 Veggie Roll • 1 Caesar Salad & 1 Cauliflower Bites • 2 Cheesecake Factory Cheesecakes • Chocolate Truffles • 2 Beverages of choice • 2 Beverages of choice C'EST TOUT $45 ROB ROY’S $50 • 1 Chicken Pesto Sandwich • 2 Chicken Parmesan with Garlic Bread • 2 Caesar Salads & 1 Cubano Sandwich • 2 Slices of Apple Pie • Strawberry-Pecan & Caesar Salad • 2 Beverages of choice • Mousse Cup & Tiramisu • 2 cans of San Pellegrino THE PICKLED PIG $54 • 2 Half Black Forest Ham Sandwich HARVEST SOCIAL $40 • Charcuterie for 2 • 2 Chicken Apple Cheddar Sandwiches • Broccoli Salad • 2 Sweet Potato/Arugula Salads • 2 slices of Carrot Cake • 2 Buttertarts & a Hummingbird Chocolate Bar • 2 cans of San Pellegrino • 2 Beverages of choice THE VAULT $40 MATTY O’SHEA’S PUB $40 • 1 Ham, Apple & Brie on Potato Bun • 1 Philly Cheesesteak & 1 Chicken Caesar Wrap & 1 Matty’s Burger • 1 Spinach Cranberry Feta Salad & 1 Potato Salad • 1 Caesar Salad & 1 Waffle Fries with Garlic • 1 Blueberry Tart & 1 Flourless Chocolate Torte • 2 Chocolate Brownie Cakes • 2 Perrier or your choice of beverage • 2 Beverages of choice TWO GUYS FOR LUNCH $30 ROCKY RIVER AT THE FALLS $40 • 1 Big Rideau Sub & 1 Smoked Meat Sandwich • Fish & Chips for 2 • 2 Tomato Cucumber Salad • Fresh Cut Fries & Caesar Salad • 2 Carrot Cake Cookies • 2 Slices of Coconut Cream Pie • 2 Homemade Iced Tea • 2 Beverages of choice www.smithsfalls.ca/experience TownofSmithsFalls ExperienceSmithsFalls

FIRST BIteS POPUP PERSONALITIES WORDS BY ZACHARY RESNICK | PHOTOS BY TARA SIMPSON PATTY PERFECTION SOME LIKE IT HOT What do two highly trained chefs do when lockdown takes Since 2018, Holly Laham has been working tirelessly to bring away all their private party contracts? Well, if you’re Michael proper Nashville-style hot chicken sandwiches to Ottawa. Holly’s Hauschild and Jordan White, you start a Jamaican patty Hot Chicken has developed a cult following in town among business. Hauschild is the owner of InHaus Cooking, a private restaurant staff and foodies, despite having to cancel its last chef service, and he is a veteran of Canada’s Culinary Olympic popup due to the rising pandemic numbers. “It was for the team. White also works at InHaus, and boasts a résumé full of best,” says Laham of the planned early-April event. “I didn’t feel Ottawa hotspots, including TwoSixAte and Amuse. The patties comfortable putting anyone at risk. The timing just wasn’t right.” themselves are an old family recipe that White has tweaked to Laham is no stranger to Ottawa’s hospitality scene. In addition to his liking. While Hauschild and White had featured the patties hot chicken, she works full time at the Merry Dairy, and boasts on a few private dining menus prior to lockdown, this was an impressive pedigree, having held positions at Nat’s Bread their chance to really treat them as a centrepiece. Using ghost Company, Corner Peach and Holland’s Cake & Shake. “We’re kitchen space at St. Anthony’s Banquet Hall, White makes all reassessing,” Laham says. “I still want to bring hot chicken to the dough and the duo collaborates on flavourful fillings while everyone; I just need to find a different way to do it.” The chicken sealing each patty by hand. Their traditional beef patty is by far sandwiches in question are divine takes on Tennessee classics. the biggest seller, brimming with rich spices and flavours. For Laham did her research, visiting the temples of hot chicken in those who like it hot, a spicy beef version with more Scotch Nashville, including Hattie B’s and Prince’s. Her own Holly’s Hot is bonnet peppers in the mix is available. There are rotating, the signature sandwich, using local chicken from either Mariposa limited-time flavours as well, everything from a breakfast patty Farms or Ferme aux Saveurs des Monts. The chicken is fried, then to buffalo cauliflower to chana masala chickpea. A fully vegan dunked in a spice/oil blend kept at a precise temperature to not patty is also in the works, which will use seitan as its base. “We make the chicken soggy. Then onto a bun, topped with lettuce want to have something for everyone,” says Hauschild, “which and garnished with buttermilk ranch and bread and butter is why we keep everything Halal.” With a growing roster of pickles, both homemade. Other flavours include the Honey Hot flavours, delivery and pickup options, and of course, handmade and the Plain Jane, for those who are spice-sensitive. Until Laham flaky dough, they seem to be doing just that. secures a brick-and-mortar location, hot chicken fans can follow on Instagram and dream of the next popup. Spice & Dough Co. Holly’s Hot Chicken Spiceanddough.ca/@spicedoughottawa @hollyshotchicken Find them at: Burrow Shop and online at the above URL Find it: Online via Instagram to find the next popup

DELICIOUS DUMPLINGS Shuai Song and Bree Hastings have always had a passion for creating delicious food. The two met at Holland College in Charlottetown, P.E.I., while attending the culinary arts program. After graduating, they moved to Ottawa, both getting jobs in the kitchen of North & Navy (NoNa), one of Ottawa’s finest restaurants. When the pandemic reduced hours for kitchen staff everywhere, Song and Hastings realized they’d have the chance to work on a project they’d long dreamed of: sharing the flavours of Song’s Northern-Chinese childhood with the diners of Ottawa. With that, Chi Dumpling (pronounced Jī’è, meaning hunger in Mandarin) was born. Operating out of the NoNa kitchen in its downtime, Song and Hastings produce traditional pork dumplings, according to Song’s family recipe. There are other dumpling flavours as well and they change every two weeks. Shrimp & Chinese chive or Kung Pao pork are fan favourites, as well as the rotating vegetarian selection. You’d also be wise to treat yourself to their classic Hong Kong milk tea, a smooth beverage that pairs especially well with dumplings and hot weather. In the future, Song and Hastings would like to add wontons or noodles to their list of offerings, and have face-to-face popups when restrictions loosen. But for now, they’re content with sharing these delicate bites of Song’s childhood with all of us. Chi Dumpling @chi_dumpling Find them at: Jacobson’s, Apothecary Kitchen, Burrow Shop and online through Instagram DM 8 edible OTTAWA July/August 2021

Our Cheese Bucket List Bleu D’Elizabeth Beemster XO This blue cheese is a true Beemster XO is a truly crowd pleaser, shown unique gouda, and is a highly through the prizes it has coveted favourite. This cheese won! This cheese has the holds a deep ocher interior perfect salty, sweet and tangy with a firm but crumbly balance, creating a pleasing texture, that melts once it hits experience once it hits the the tongue. The flavour holds tongue, allowing for a balance rich notes of butterscotch, of the notes to hit. whiskey and pecan. Serious Cheese Truffle Brie Grey Owl This cheese is our top-seller, and it is easy to see Made right in Quebec, this why when eaten! It was developed and continues to Canadian cheese is sur- be made in house, making it unique to our store! A face-ripened to give it the creamy wheel of brie is sliced in half and then filled iconic rind. It provides a with a creamy Truffle mixture. A bite of this melts on lemony flavour from the the tongue, filling your pallet with butteriness from the paste, which is perfectly bal- brie and a soft taste of earthy, truffle deliciousness. This anced by the ashy rind. This cheese is best eaten on its own or on a piece of warm cheese is an absolute must-try for anyone who loves goat baguette, really allowing for its flavour to shine. Chateau De Bourgogne The texture of this cheese is what really makes it a show-stopper! Made with traditional techniques, this triple-cream brie almost feels like butter in the mouth, it is that soft! The flavour is a mix of slight mushroom notes from the rind with delicate, lactic notes from the paste. Shop Online: www.graceinthekitchen.com

Dairy Distillery 34 Industrial Dr. 613.256.6136, dairydistillery.com Equator Co ee Drive-Thru 451 Ottawa St. 613.256.5960, equator.ca Dandelion Foods 451 Ottawa St. 613.256.4545, dandelionfoods.ca Tea & Cake 98 Mill St. 613.256.4830, teaandcake.ca Hummingbird Chocolate 9 Houston Dr. 613.801.0357, hummingbirdchocolate.com 10 edible OTTAWA July/August 2021

NOT YOUR childhood FREEZIES Bartender Jeff Taylor's Boozie Freezies may remind you of the frozen pops of your childhood — just don't share these frozen craft cocktails with your own kids. WORDS BY CHARLES ENMAN | PHOTO BY AMY ZAMBONIN Maybe Nat King Cole had it right when he by the pandemic, has been pouring samples of his sang of “those lazy, hazy, crazy days of well-regarded cocktails into cylinder-shaped plastic summer — those days of soda and pretzels bags, freezing them and then passing them out among and beer.” But well-known Ottawa bartender Jeff friends and neighbours to see the reactions. Taylor figures Cole had it, at best, half right. People just love them, he says. The cocktails themselves Soda and pretzels and beer get the party going, sure. — “that would be craft cocktails,” Taylor insists, But there are other staples of summer that Cole forgot. because he uses only the freshest ingredients — have the rich subtlety that he’s developed over 27 years in the “Doesn’t everyone remember the freezie that freshened bartender’s trade. Their delivery as a freezie or slurpee, summer days when you were a kid? And what about the he says, only enhances the delight that people take in cocktails that the grownups enjoyed on the backyard their consumption. deck?” “In a lot of ways, this is about nostalgia,” Taylor says. You can have both, Taylor says, in a new confection that brings the freezie and the cocktail into delicious The bartender has worked at many licensed establishments collision. in Ottawa and, in moments unsqueezed by pandemic, is still working at the Pelican Grill and Tavern on the For several weeks now, Taylor, professionally sidelined Hill. His customers have always wanted the best, but edibleottawa.co 11

then Taylor, as a committed professional, has always wanted to manufacturing potential to what I’ve been doing for decades — deliver the best. creating the best cocktails I know how. “You can blame Elizabeth Shue,” he says. “Ever since I saw “And maybe I could get a business underway that would remain her in the movie Cocktail, bartending seemed to me a really in operation even after bartenders and customers are able to interesting way to make a living.” return to their favourite bars.” He addresses bartending as a kind of art form. “You need to Taylor recently found a commercial outlet for his product. create depth,” he says. “A good cocktail will have only fresh Meatings, the Orleans-based restaurant and caterer, has ingredients, and you choose those ingredients so they create agreed to carry his cocktail freezies. If anyone wishes to buy layers of flavour. The encounter with your palate should be directly from Taylor, he can be reached on Instagram at complicated and interesting.” Mixshakeandstir. You would no more ask Taylor for the details of his recipes than The trajectory is positive so far, which doesn’t surprise the you would ask Colonel Sanders about the secrets of KFC. But manager at the Pelican Grill at all. he allows one professional secret to escape: If you’re offering cocktails in any frozen form, you’ll find “the booze comes “Jeff’s cocktails are fabulous,” says Pat Asselin. “Anybody can forward, so you need to balance that with more sugar.” put spirits in a glass, but Jeff always has an end vision in mind and everything comes together perfectly. In his field, he really Right now, he has five flavours — Hibiscus Punch, Watermelon is a kind of artist. Margarita, Hawaiian Lemonade, Peach Coconut and White Russian Pudding. Others may be added soon. “And those freeze pops and their summery flavours — only Jeff would come up with that kind of idea and really make it work.” The alcohol content is 8 per cent by volume. They sell for $6 apiece. Taylor’s feeling optimistic. “I’m ramping up,” he says. “Bought a new freezer, a label maker, and I’m getting a graphic designer Among the neighbours who got in on the early sampling was to make a company logo. “I’ll take this as far as I can, so I’m local artist Dan Martelock. distributing not just in Ottawa, but across the region.” “You’ll have an uncanny experience,” Martelock says. “For He’s a little abashed when told of the praise others have lavished a moment, you’re still a kid with a freezie, while you’re on his freezies. He laughs when told some call him an artist. appreciating as an adult the pleasures of a well-made cocktail.” “That’s funny. But I guess I am sharing my creations. And Martelock considers Taylor among his brethren in art. “If they’re not like paintings, which can last for centuries. They’re making a good craft beer is an art — and lots of people say it more like snowflakes, with no two alike. But if they give you is — then what Jeff’s doing will fit the bill as well.” 20 minutes of pleasure, I’m going to keep on making them.”   The pandemic had hit Taylor hard. Bars were closed and Boozie Freezies there was no saying how soon he could get back to his usual @mixshakeandstir | [email protected] professional routine. “I needed some kind of pandemic side hustle,” he says. “So Charles Enman admits to having quaffed the odd Boozie I asked myself, if I can’t be working steadily as a bartender, Freezie from Taylor’s home-based bar — but never as prelude then what can I do? And then I decided to apply a kind of to writing. 12 edible OTTAWA July/August 2021

edibleottawa.co 13

















Like other makers, retail food shops and restaurants, Berthiaume has had to remain nimble in the face of public health restrictions as she also deals with regulatory challenges. Fortunately, local businesses are pulling together. At Parlour Place in Wellington West, Pascale's All Natural Ice Cream and the Corner Peach participate in an open-air market, taking advantage of the spacious patio. 22 edible OTTAWA July/August 2021

The Ontario Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs had had to give up her kitchen and incubator space on Gladstone. knocked on her door and shut her business down. She supports the regulation of commercial food production, but Dairy regulation in Canada like other critics, she’s baffled by what the laws are protecting — Dairy production is heavily regulated in Canada, starting with a public health or the interests of bigger, richer dairy producers. contentious federal system of supply management. (“Detractors suggest it stifles free-market competition and inflates food prices OMAFRA ruled that Berthiaume could legally and safely retail for consumers,” the Globe and Mail wrote in 2020, “advocates say it her dairy products from her shop on Gladstone Avenue (she ensures that Canadian producers aren’t flooded by cut-rate imports took a chance and spent $30,000 to install a retail window), but and they receive reliable, consistent prices for production.”) There those same dairy products were not safe to sell at any third-party are also regulations in each province, and Ontario built the legal location — such as farmers’ markets or food shops — unless she and bureaucratic thicket that has entrapped Berthiaume. or her employee were there to hand the ice cream to the customer. So, she could wholesale her vegan or sheep’s milk products to After 13 years in business, OMAFRA declared that it was illegal any market or store, but if she wanted to sell cow or goat dairy for her to produce ice cream from cow and goat dairy, and if she products in those same places, she would have to rent and staff her did so, she could be fined $5,000 per day or be sent to jail. own retail space there. It was March 2019, just before what would be another thriving Consider this: Berthiaume could sell her dairy products from her summer season for Berthiaume, and she had tickets for a quick own retail window at 571 Gladstone, but couldn’t sell them in the vacation in Bermuda. retail fridge in the Red Apron at 564 Gladstone — which literally is across the street. Somehow, in crossing the street, they became “They told me ‘go on vacation’,” she recalls, “and they said we’ll unsafe to sell. talk when you come back. I said, ‘Oh, great.’” By the start of 2021, in the deepest days of her annual slow- There began her battle with a bureaucracy that she believes is season, Berthiaume shut down entirely and “took a sabbatical to indifferent to the plight of small business. re-organize and basically lick my wounds and start over,” she says. “You don’t drop a prison letter on somebody and then just walk “This caused a lot of trauma to my small business, to my family and away with no support,” she says. “I felt angry. I felt alone. They can it was really hard to navigate this. It was quite the learning curve.” freeze my bank accounts; they have all the power. It’s really scary.” The small-business effect OMAFRA told her she could not produce cow or goat dairy Experts are studying how government regulations in Canada seem products for sale by wholesale or even retail, and her business to favour large-scale producers while imposing eyebrow-raising melted like a double-scoop left in the sun. requirements onto the smallest producers. Her 15 wholesale clients — almost all of her existing business — Amy Proulx has a combined PhD in food sciences and human dropped to two when Berthiaume informed them that she could nutrition and has worked for the United States Department now only make vegan ice cream or use sheep’s milk. Only the Red of Agriculture, Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada, and the Apron and Suzy Q accepted her new products for sale in their Canadian Food Inspection Agency. Proulx joined the faculty at retail fridges. Niagara College 10 years ago because, “I kept going back to the fact that we haven’t done enough as a food country to focus on the A few months later, in July 2019, OMAFRA informed Berthiaume learning practice. How do we teach people to be members of the that pending changes to existing rules, she could produce dairy largest manufacturing sector of our country? products for retail sale, so long as the products had been “under your care and control at all times and sold and distributed only “We’re doing a mediocre job of teaching it in a meaningful way directly to the consumer.” that allows workers to be successful and allows them to go and innovate and make those new products that really define our Berthiaume effectively had no retail business for dairy and couldn’t culture and our taste of place.” make it viable. She picked up some business with her non-dairy vegan and sheep’s milk ice creams, but revenues were low and she As the lead developer of the federally funded Canadian Food and edibleottawa.co 23

Wine Institute Innovation Centre, a position she held until 2018, them feel like I’m a rebel,” she says. “I’m just an honest, small ice she “got that reputation of all these small businesses picking up cream business. I’m not opposed to them imposing rules on me, the phone and calling me... I go to bat for many of those small but it’s just so onerous it doesn’t make sense. businesses which were then facing regulatory challenges.” “What I would like to do is to have one set of rules for small She agrees that Berthiaume’s case raises serious questions about business and one set of rules for massive businesses — the same the sale of dairy products in Ontario. way they have it for meat, where you can wholesale until a certain point and once you hit that point you need a licensed meat facility.” “She can take it off-site and sell it under her own name at the market downtown, but she can’t walk it across the street to another She looked into working with a licensed co-packer, but those facility? companies restricted her to ingredients she doesn’t want to use. “In the end, it would have ended up tasting like Breyers (an ice cream “How is the risk matrix changed in that product? That’s really made by the global conglomerate Unilever) and that’s not what I’m the key question, and so from a small-business perspective, it’s trying to produce. I’m trying to produce something small-scale.” somewhat illogical that they’re not thinking on a risk-oriented basis. So the licensing is not about risk-based activities within the She says it would cost her hundreds of thousands of dollars to food manufacturing sector; it’s really about control.” get to where she could produce cow and goat dairy products for wholesale again, so instead she’s focused on selling her products Control to whose benefit? online, for pick up. OMAFRA dictates that she can retail her products on her own website, but cannot sell the identical “Not to the small businesses, that’s for sure,” she replies. “One products online at, for example, Burrow Shop, an Ottawa-based could argue that it’s control for the large conglomerates. Large online market for local food products. She temporarily shut down conglomerates are the ones who have the lobbying power to be her online sales when she took a sabbatical in January of this year. able to influence how policies and regulations are defined in the government. Small businesses don’t have that voice.” “Until I can investigate more and build on my property, I will be operating seasonally at a very small scale, exploring popups, trying Proulx, who recently co-authored a report for Agriculture and to reduce my overhead until I can get back on my feet and figure Agri-food Canada on how regulations are negatively affecting things out. It’s been really traumatic and it sucks — it still sucks the small- and medium-sized businesses that are the majority of — but at least I was able to navigate through this.” Canada’s food producers, has reached out to the provincial agency OMAFRA on Berthiaume’s behalf. She got no response, “or if There is an upside for Berthiaume, and it is rich in irony. The they did respond to me, they’d say, ‘please refer to the regulation.’ provincial rules have forced her to focus on vegan ice creams That’s not useful.” and sorbets, and that has allowed her to “stay ahead of the vegan movement, the dairy-free movement,” she says. “People are raving Edible reached out to OMAFRA to ask how its rules on cow and about it. It’s vegan, but it’s still tasty, right? And that’s what I’ve always goat dairy production affect small businesses such as Berthiaume’s tried to do, to make the really rich and unctuous, delicious treat.” and has received no reply as of printing. She told a friend who owns a dairy farm how she has “produced Proulx thinks regulators have warily developed “this almost litigious two tons more dairy-free product this year, and I’ve produced (far and liability-centred practice and they won’t give advice.” She less) cow dairy this year because of new regulations, and I’m kind of stresses that the safe production of food is “absolutely foundational,” molding my business around that, and he was obviously very upset.” but advises people like Berthiaume to boldly and clearly show government officials how those rules are impeding small business. Promoting dairy-free competition is not, one can safely assume, the intention of Ontario’s dairy regulations. “Be bold enough to step up and not just cave, but find your allies and advocate for this,” Proulx says. Pascale's All-Natural Ice Cream pascalesicecream.com | 613.322.4256 | @pascalesicecream The fight for common sense and fairness Berthiaume is determined to fight for common sense and fairness. Peter Simpson is an Ottawa writer who dreams of winning gold for Canada at the Ice Cream Olympics. “I’m trying to send a clear explanation to people without making 24 edible OTTAWA July/August 2021



Shop burrowshop.ca MTriadCiotciionnaal Mexican salsas and corn chips tastemicocina.com A one-stop-shop online grocery market with curated products from local farmers, makers, restaurants and small businesses. We work to make it easy, delicious and fun to support local and shorten supply chains. Pickup and Delivery. Ottawa and Gatineau. FGiroelwdnleinssCornwall, Ontario, year ‘round fieldless.com OrgaÄlnsickaamFabremr TPéhcehébeFsutméquality smoked maple syrup. Farm fish, produced locally. pechefume.ca with heart alskafarm.com CRreiamfatgyinRianmgenramen with house-made ramen kits, pantry items and more. craftyramen.com

CrTeoaptiSvhee,lfhaPnrdecsrearfvteesd FrMeassha,laveKgiatnchcernafCtomcpuarrnyy preserves, made in Ottawa sauces made in Ottawa. masalakitchenco.ca topshelfpreserves.ca More than 14OO products, from 13O local vendors, including: Älska Farm Buchipop Crafty Ramen Fieldless Masala Kitchen Company Mi Cocina Nat’s Bread Co. Péché Fumé Pure Kitchen Purple Urchin Top Shelf Preserves PAluwraeysKiftrcehsehn, always ArtisanNaal,t’asllBrneaatdurCaol., evolving. Vegetarian old world bread. Home delivery food and juice bar and subscriptions now available purekitchenottawa.com natsbreadcompany.com FBluacvhoiupro,pfun and fizz. Familiar flavours with simple ingredients made in Ottawa buchipop.com LiquidPucrapslteileUrcsohianp and more, made from scratch in Ottawa purpleurchin.ca burrowshop.ca

BDONEESSETEORFFVOTEOHSDEACNITEIDESIBLE Interested in publishing edible Montreal? Contact [email protected] for details.

IN SEASON PICKLING PARTICULARS WORDS AND PHOTOS BY HELENA MCMURDO Pickled or fermented Pickling most often refers to the immersion of food in an acidic solution such as vinegar, while fermented “pickles” are not pickled at all. Instead, fermentation involves adding salt to food to kill the bad bacteria while promoting the growth of good bacteria called lactobacilli, which helps preserve the food. Right as ratios To make pickles, keep it safe by ensuring that the percentage of vinegar to water is no less than 50 per cent. Not to say it can’t be more if you prefer a puckery pickle. Also, make sure you are using vinegar that is at least 5 per cent acetic acid — anything less will make the mixture too alkaline. Distilled white wine vinegars or apple cider vinegar make good choices. For fermented pickles, aim for a brine in the region of 2 to 3 per cent salt to water (for 4 cups of water, add about 2 tablespoons of salt). Like any fermented products, make sure that the brine covers the food at all times and that the jars are occasionally “burped” to release the gas. Use that brine Have you emptied that jar of pickles you really like? Add fresh cucumbers to that brine and pop it in the fridge and wait a few days before snacking on them. Or whisk 1/4 cup brine with 1/2 cup oil for a quick salad dressing. Add a couple of spoonfuls to your next Caesar, martini or soak chicken in the brine overnight before dredging it in flour to make fried chicken for your next picnic. Look beyond the cucumber There are so many things that can be pickled in this abundant season. Fennel makes a fantastic pickle, as do peppers, radishes, celery root and tomatoes. Or try a mix of vegetables, like our take on an Italian giardiniera, shown here. And don’t forget about fruit — pickled fruit such as Umeboshi, Japanese sour plums, makes a great condiment.

Quick Pickled Peppers Pick up a pint of plucky peppers to make a pleasant pickle. Use an array of mild peppers with a few hotter ones added for varied flavour, and you'll want to put them on everything. Instead of canning these peppers in a water bath, do a quick pickle and keep them in the fridge, so they stay crunchy. 11/4 lbs mixed peppers such as Hungarian Wax, Anaheim, Poblano, Jalapeño, Serrano  1/2 teaspoon whole cumin seeds 1/2 teaspoon whole coriander seeds 1/2 teaspoon allspice berries 11/2 cups champagne vinegar 1/2 cup water 3 tablespoons sugar 1 teaspoon sugar Sterilize 2 pint jars and add 1/4 teaspoon each of cumin, coriander and allspice to each jar. Chop the milder peppers (Poblano, Hungarian, Anaheim) into rings and pack them into the jars. Slice the hotter peppers (Jalapeño and Serrano) lengthwise into quarters. Remove seeds and veins from the hotter peppers, if you desire a less spicy mix. And it's never a bad idea to wear gloves to protect your hands while handling the hot ones. Place the quartered hot peppers down along the sides of the jars, using a wooden spoon to pack down, as necessary. Meanwhile heat the vinegar, water and sugar until just below the boil, whisking a few times to dissolve the sugar and salt. Transfer the hot liquid to a heatproof jug and pour over each jar leaving 1/2-inch head space at the top of the jar. Seal the jars and allow to cool at room temperature. Once cool, place them in the fridge where they will keep for about 2 months, provided you don’t eat them all first. 

FROM FIELD TO GLASS These Drinks kick @$& You already eat farm to table and with so many creative and refreshing options, why not imbibe locally? Find many of these craft beverages at the LCBO, or order online for pickup or delivery. Kinsip House of Fine Spirits Stream Water Small Pony Barrel Works A grain-to-glass distillery making Naturally perfect, plastic-free Canada’s first all barrel-aged crafted spirits, liqueurs, and bitters. naturally alkaline spring water in Sparkling and Still from the Eastern sour beer brewery. 66 Gilead Rd., Bloomfield, PEC 101 Schneider Rd., Kanata Ontario Highlands. kinsip.ca streamwater.ca smallponybarrelworks.com @kinsipspirits @streamwatercanada @smallponybarrelworks Whitewater Brewing Co. Whiprsnapr Whitewater Distilling Company High-quality, sustainably crafted Style-bending beer with a Dive into Paper Boat Artisanal beer. Brewed by friends, for friends. tasty twist on easy drinking. Gin, a high-quality spirit that will Bullfrog Powered. 14 Bexley Place, Nepean intrigue your imagination. 1% for 78 Pembroke St., Cobden 613.596.9882 22 Fletcher Rd., Foresters Falls the Planet member. whiprsnaprbrewingco.com 78 Pembroke St., Cobden whitewaterbeer.ca @whiprsnaprbrew @whitewaterbrewingco whitewaterspirits.ca @whitewaterspirits

PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY WINE, beer and Provisions Ethesccaopuenttoy Redtail Vineyards Bloom eld Public House Market 422 Partridge Hollow Rd., Consecon 257 Main St., Bloomfield Just a short drive away, you can bloomfieldpublichouse.ca escape the city and have all the redtailvineyards.com elements for a magical getaway. Discover the soft sandy shores of Lacey Estates Vineyard & Winery Closson Chase Vineyards Lake Ontario and the land that 804 Closson Rd., Hillier 629 Closson Rd., Hillier inspires local entrepreneurs — laceyestates.com clossonchase.com from grain-to-glass breweries and distilleries to award- winning wineries, restaurants and producers. Enjoy sublime accommodations, fresh air, open land, rushing waves and the best of County life. In Prince Edward County, you can escape the every day and return inspired. Or order beer, wine and spirits online to savour the County's unique terroir from home. Gillingham Brewing Company Picnic PEC 1316 Wilson Rd., Hillier 194 Main St., Picton gillinghambrewing.ca picnicpec.com

PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY Studios and galleries 2gallery Andara Gallery Iynoduur lsgeenses 256 Main St. W., Picton 54 Wilson Rd., Bloomfield (North) Prince Edward County is 2gallery.ca andaragallery.com famous for its community of internationally recognized artists, Sybil Frank Gallery Oeno Gallery studios and galleries. Painters, 305 Main St. (entrance on West St.), 2274 County Rd. 1, Bloomfield (North) sculptors, photographers, curators Wellington, sybilfrankgallery.com and gallery owners have long oenogallery.com been drawn to ‘The County’, one of the most beautiful regions in the country. Visit individual artist’s studios to see work being made; discover exceptional contemporary galleries with curated exhibitions; galleries with art of historic significance; and the largest commercial outdoor sculpture garden in Canada. Explore the PEC Arts Trail, which meanders alongside beautiful vistas, wineries, restaurants and other attractions. You might also take a workshop, attend a lecture, experience an opening, and listen to some music at one of the gallery or studio venues. Visit us online and plan your visit today! Pamela Carter Studio Gallery Tom Ashbourne Gallery 52 West St., Wellington 17009 Loyalist Pkway., Wellington pamelacarterstudio.com tomashbourne.com

An Elevated Foodie Experience A family-run food shop specializing in premium locally made goods. BEE SAVVY New and expanded location FINE FOODS 14 Elgin Street West, Arnprior www.beesavvy.ca

ON THE FARM FRom Garlic and BLUEBERRIES TO HASKAP WINE On Northslope Farm in Farrellton, Que., Thea Pratt and Tom Bernier grow more than 12,000 heads of garlic that are sold before they're pulled from the ground, and now they're adding blueberries and haskaps to the mix. WORDS BY HATTIE KLOTZ | PHOTOS BY AMY ZAMBONIN edibleottawa.co 35

Thea Pratt, top right, Tom Bernier and their two children camped out in a shipping container on weekends on their Farrellton property for four years as they rebuilt the farmhouse and planted garlic, and, more recently, blueberries and haskaps. To go with their garlic crop, Pratt and Bernier have planted 800 blueberry and 1,000 haskap bushes that are spaced widely apart to provide room for livestock to help in crop management. 36 edible OTTAWA July/August 2021

W hen Thea Pratt and Tom Bernier bought their He builds and converts agricultural machinery for the job at farm in Farrellton, just north of Wakefield, Que., hand. Recently he’s created a garlic harvester and a trenching in 2010, they took possession of 237 acres and machine, converted a manure spreader to accommodate wood a ruined farmhouse. For four years, they commuted from chips and even built machines for neighbouring farms Roots Montreal with their two children, now aged 13 and eight on and Shoots and Ferme Lève-tôt. weekends, and spent summer holidays living out of a shipping container they placed on the land. At the end of 2016, the couple planted 800 blueberry bushes, each only as large as a tiny twig. “In 2017, we took all the flower Now, 11 years later, they’ve made giant strides. They’ve built a buds off,” explains Pratt, “so that the bushes put their energy farmhouse on the original footprint of the ancient homestead into growing, rather than producing fruit, but we were then and no longer commute from Montreal. They’ve grown their besieged by a plague of tent and forest caterpillars. They almost original crop of 900 heads of garlic to more than 12,000, all destroyed the crop,” she recalls, “but we patrolled the orchard of which sells before it’s out of the ground in August. And and we picked them off by hand. We’d come out here three times now they’ve turned their attention to berries — haskaps and daily to do this and count them to see if we were winning.” They blueberries. estimated a kill rate of about 900 a day, and “we paid the kids five cents a ’pilar!” Every year since, in late winter while the snow They’ve named the farm Northslope. “We decided on fruit in is high, Pratt patrols the trees to spot and destroy the caterpillar our farm expansion thinking this slope to the North would be egg casings, which contain more than 300 eggs. advantageous as the plants might decide to flower a bit later than plants on a south face,” Pratt explains. “The idea being to The next year was not simple either. During the winter of 2017- keep flowers safe from late spring frosts.”  2018, deer were a big problem. However, before they planted either of these fruiting bushes, the “They ate all of the flower buds off of the plants, leaving us with couple spent several years preparing the neglected ground by little to no flowers the following spring,” Pratts says. “That is fixing the drainage in the heavy clay soil, “because blueberries why we put up a fence.  Mostly they are a problem when the don’t like wet conditions,” says Pratt. Next they added huge grass dies off in the late fall and they are looking for more to quantities of mulch and compost, then planted cover crops such munch on.  Once the grass comes back in mid-spring, we take as oats and red clover, and planned the long rows for planting. the temporary fence down.” It’s back-breaking work. By 2019, they were successful in harvesting a small crop for “I really enjoy the hands-on, physical work with the soil,” family consumption, and 2020 marked their first crop to sell. explains Pratt, which may sound surprising coming from a “We are hoping to open for our first season of u-pick in 2021,” talented French horn player who has performed and recorded Pratt says. with several bands. But she’s full of surprises. She’s also a stop- motion animator, who teaches the art form to students all over But back to the garlic. Pratt sourced her primary seeds from Quebec. Yet farming is in her blood; she grew up on a farm Pigeon Hill in the Eastern Townships and the remainder from in the Eastern Townships, as did her husband Tom Bernier, Salt Spring Island seed stock. who has a PhD in biosystems engineering. This background in engineering is useful on a farm as he’s a machine expert. “And there’s one that we call Caloia, after my friend Nicholas, edibleottawa.co 37

Pratt and Bernier sell who gave us a [bulb] many years ago,” Pratt says.  “Of the 12,000 most of their garlic crop [bulbs] planted this year, we grow 4,000 of that one.” to friends and family in Montreal, with a few They sell most of the crop to friends and family in Montreal, with heads making it to the a few heads making it to the General Store in Wakefield and local General Store in Wakefield restaurant The Village House. Les Fougères in Chelsea buys garlic and The Village House scapes and this year the couple expects to harvest 340 pounds of restaurant. them, much of which Pratt will make into her special Great Escape This year, Pratt expects pesto to sell at her new farm kiosk. to harvest 340 pounds of garlic scapes, much In 2016, Pratt and Bernier planted a trial of haskap bushes and of which she'll make into they liked what they saw. Haskaps are higher in antioxidants than her special Great Escape blueberries; they’re hardy in northern climates and they are versatile. pesto to sell at her new They look like elongated blueberries and have a tangy sweet flavour. farm kiosk. Haskap, their Japanese name, means “little present on the end of a branch.” They are also known as edible honeysuckle, blue honeysuckle and honeyberry. The couple has since expanded that initial planting to 1,000 bushes. They spaced the rows widely so that eventually they can fence and graze a few sheep between the lines. And while the bushes look hardy and healthy, they have already attracted their own pests. In 2020, the crop was attacked by flocks of cedar waxwings. They decimated the harvest, leaving very few berries. “We even tried chasing them off with a drone,” Pratt recalls, “but now I fear we will have to net them to keep them protected. It’s a shame as we’ve tried very hard to minimize any use of plastic here. We even use recycled tarps for our weeds.” The next few years promise great things for Northslope Farm. Pratt and Bernier installed a commercial kitchen where Pratt will prepare her scape pesto, haskap lemonade, popsicles and other treats for sale alongside berries and pumpkins at their farm stand. They have plans to launch a winery — haskaps make an excellent, pinot noir style of juice — and Pratt has visions of dinners in nature, if we are ever allowed to gather again. “I’ve only ever really planted things I love to eat,” Pratt says, “and I love blueberries.” It’s a fair guess that haskaps now make the grade as well. Northslope Farm 69 Woods Rd., Farrellton, Que. Hattie Klotz is a fan of berries of every shape and colour.

When you first visit Perth, you just might fall in love with it. As you stroll through the beautifully landscaped Stewart Park, sit riverside on a restaurant patio and shop in the downtown heritage core, you’ll feel it. You’ve arrived in a picturesque little town and are living a foodie’s dream. Ready to explore our backyard? Download your Perth passport at perth.ca/eatanddrink where you’ll find Perth’s multi-day itineraries for The Great Taste of Ontario to make the most of your trip. perth.ca/eatanddrink 667 Glen Tay Rd. 1865 Rogers Rd. Perth | 613.267.9712 Perth | 613.466.0743 littlestream.ca picnicperth.com



LIQUID ASSETS WHISKY AND GIN MADE IN QUEBEC The province’s latest distillery is prepped to produce 15 million cans of ready-mixed gin and tonic a year, with plans to add facilities in Ontario, B.C. and Pennsylvania. WORDS BY HATTIE KLOTZ | PHOTOS BY BRENDAN BURDEN edibleottawa.co 41

It all began with water; because to make good spirits, you need miles a minute. A former racecar driver dressed from head-to- good water. From a spring, buried at the back of a Gatineau toe in black and the owner of three truck dealerships, he is a industrial park, flow vodka, gin, whisky and many different man living life at high speed, with a laser-focused vision for his flavoured liqueurs. This is Artist in Residence distillery, the first distillery. of its kind in the Outaouais region. “I’ll enjoy an occasional beer or martini,” he explains, “but my The distillery was founded five years ago by Gatineau resident interest is in the creativity and building of the product. I like to and owner Pierre Mantha. It’s a synthesis of so many local see the product growing.” elements: the acronym of its name — AiR — speaks to stunning Before COVID hit, Mantha was putting the finishing touches views out over the tiny Gatineau airport where light aircraft float on a stunning glass, metal and wood tasting room on the top to the ground, where water is drawn from the land beneath the floor of his building. He’s looking forward to the day that he can building and the corn necessary to make that vodka is grown in welcome back guests to sample some of the 35 different drinks he fields less than a stone’s throw away. produces. And he already has grand expansion plans. While AiR distillery speaks to that sense of place, it’s also a little The distillery boasts walls of oak barrels from Kentucky and bit rebellious. Housed in a gleaming glass and black steel bunker, Spain, as well as huge copper and steel tanks, complete with it bills itself as “inspired by mavericks and free thinkers. Artist in gleaming piping, temperature gauges, knobs, cranks and Residence seeks to provoke passions and assert itself as the craft handles to turn. It looks like something out of Charlie and the distillery for renegades.” Chocolate factory, and produces something just as sweet if you, Mantha is the lead renegade and free thinker. like Mantha, enjoy the occasional cocktail. “I don’t drink. I’m a truck mechanic,” he explains at a million Mantha’s brother Michel, who does enjoy the product he creates, 42 edible OTTAWA July/August 2021

Pierre Mantha, far left, founded Artist in Residence Distillerie in Gatineau. From a natural spring on the property flow gin, whisky and flavoured liqueurs. Mantha and his brother Michel, who is the gin- and whisky-maker, are producing Waxwing, their flagship gin, Bumblebee, a honey gin, whisky, aged three, five, 10 and 20 years and an extensive list of flavoured gins and liqueurs. is the gin- and whisky-maker, a skill learned from a consultant Due to provincial import laws, AiR products are currently only that Mantha brought in when he launched the business. But first available in Quebec. However, Mantha plans to break ground he did his homework. He toured distilleries in the U.S. — mostly on a new distillery in Hawkesbury, Ont., this year, scheduled to whisky — and returned home with the intention of producing open and supply the Ontario market in 2022. He also has his vodka. sights set on Vancouver and Pennsylvania. “I like to build stuff,” he says, waving at the state-of-the-art “Pennsylvania, because water is plentiful and corn is not building and equipment, “and my aim was to do volume.” And expensive,” he explains. And also, because he knows the region while that is still his aim, he has diversified into flavoured gins, thanks to his car racing career. liqueurs such as maple, ginger, orange, bitter lemon, amaretto, As Artist in Residence expands with larger distilling tanks and a chocolate crème de menthe and whisky. bigger canning line capable of producing up to 15 million cans of The whisky will variously be aged three, five, 10 and 20 years and ready-mixed gin and tonic, lemonade and plain tonic annually, Mantha is converting his former truck garage the other side of Mantha is a man on a mission. “I want to be the biggest small the parking lot to an aging and storage room. craft distillery in Canada,” he says. “I’m living my dream and I About 80 per cent of AiR production is gin. One made with want to see 10 of these across the country.” blueberries is a best-seller. Packed with juniper berries, coriander Artist in Residence Distillerie seeds and dried wild berries from Lac Saint-Jean, Que., it ranks 243 Bombardier St., Gatineau, Que. ahead of grapefruit, citrus and cucumber as crowd favourites. airdistillerie.com | 1-844-735-8800 | @airdistillerie Mantha also produces Waxwing, a deep yellow gin that he describes as, “dry and more deeply juniper,” while Bumblebee Hattie Klotz is a fan of honey gin. has the sweet edge of honey. edibleottawa.co 43





Visit theJewel of the Rideau MERRICKVILLE-WOLFORD 1. Mrs. McGarrigle’s Fine Food 4. Healthily Ever After 7. Downtowne Ice Cream Shoppe Shop 311 St. Lawrence St., 118 Brock St.W., Merrickville 165 St. Lawrence St., Merrickville Merrickville, mustard.ca FB @healthilyeveraftermerrickville downtowneicecreamshoppe.ca 2. Yellow Canoe Cafe 5. Visit the Village of 8. The Baldachin Inn 108 St. Lawrence St., Merrickville Merrickville-Wolford 111 St. Lawrence St., Merrickville yellowcanoecafe.com merrickville-wolford.ca baldachin.com 3. Stella Luna Gelato Café 6. Iron Forge Pizza 9. Rideau Woodland Ramble 111 Main St. E., Merrickville 206 Main St. W., Merrickville 7210 Burritt’s Rapids Rd., slgelato.com Facebook @ironforgepizza rideauwoodlandramble.com

THE DISH A VETERAN OF THE PIVOT Chef, caterer and restaurateur, Das Lokal’s executive chef Harriet Clunie has worked in some of the best kitchens in the city and has always adapted and advocated for her fellow food service workers. WORDS BY JENNIFER CAMPBELL | PHOTOS BY AMY ZAMBONIN edibleottawa.co 47

Harriet Clunie has returned to her roots. The executive the outside, moist and yielding inside, along with a pile of seasonal chef at Das Lokal Kitchen + Bar was also the German- vegetables, including fresh local fiddleheads, hydroponic tomato, inspired restaurant’s opening chef back in 2013. cucumber, fennel and beets, along with “a variety of herbage and During her second stint at the ByWard Market restaurant, she’s lemon.” The herbage refers to a disc of herb and lemon butter making some menu changes and moving away from the German that sits atop the food that comes as takeout in a compostable focus, something the restaurant had been gradually doing for a takeout container. few years anyway. Clunie is also making some profound changes in direction, including introducing a plant-forward menu, a The dish does represent Clunie, but in the interview, she insists trend many restaurateurs and culinary pundits talk about, but on “reframing” edible Ottawa’s request. few dare to execute. “I don’t consider anything at Das Lokal all me,” she says, But Clunie has never been wedded to convention. A pioneer in with typical humility. “We’re very much a team. It’s definitely Ottawa food service circles, she has worked front of house, back something I'm really conscious of, and I try to foster a of house and has owned her own restaurant. And she’s been a collaborative approach to everything. So we sat down as a whole constant advocate for food service workers’ rights, as well as their kitchen and went through the menu, and I took everybody's well-being, something she hopes to pick up as soon as COVID ideas. At the end of the day, I get a yea or nay, but we all sat restrictions lift a little and get-togethers are allowed. down [to discuss it.]” Clunie on a plate Clunie calls Das Lokal’s menu “Northern European-inspired” Asked to present a dish from the Das Lokal menu that captures because she loves Scandinavian food, which is backed up by her culinary philosophy on a plate, Clunie presents a perfectly the fact that she’s also the chef for the Danish ambassador in cooked piece of ling cod from Whalesbone, crisp and golden on Ottawa. But Das Lokal's menu is about to get another facelift. 48 edible OTTAWA July/August 2021