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IN THIS EDITION 5 GOT A POCKET FULL OF SUNSTONE 11 BY K AYL AN KHOURIE CAPE TOOLS 19 BY TENILLE HOGE DIVING INTO THE PEARL SECTOR, WAV E S O F C H A NG E BY ARABELLA RODEN 19 Introduction 23 Color and Lustre 25 Unusual Appeal 26 Factors impacting the pearl supply 28 Supply chain integrity 37 T R A D I T I O NA L J E W E L L E RY A ND I N T ELLECT UAL PROPERTY PROTECTION BY PAMELA MALULEKE Publisher : Member of : Audited by: Jewellers’ Network Publications (Also available online) The Jewellers’ Network Definitive Directory Southern Africa’s biggest, most comprehensive business category directory in the Jewellery, Watch and Diamond industry. It is an invaluable tool for both national and international professionals within the sector. LINKED by Jewellers' Network Jewellers’ Network publishes a quarterly print magazine, LINKED, which is brimming with information, product launches and in-depth articles about the sector. LINKED Online Sent out digitally on a monthly basis and available on our website, LINKED Online is a content-rich digital magazine offering businesses yet another way to reach audiences locally and internationally more regularly. Tel: (+27) 10 030 0888 / Fax: (+27) 86 508 5705 Website: www.jewellersnetwork.co.za / Email: [email protected] Postal Address: PO Box 525, Fourways North, 2086 D esign : Yuppiestudios | www.yuppiestudios.co.za No editorial matter or information published in LINKED by Jewellers' Network may be reproduced in any form without the prior consent of the publisher. The publisher accepts no responsibility, liability or obligation of any statement, photograph or illustration appearing in the advertisements. Every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of information published in this Directory, however, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any omissions or errors, or for any consequences arising there from. PAGE 3

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FF EE AA TT UU RR EE DD AA RR TT II CC LL EE Got a pocket full of Sunstone? MAYBE THINK TWICE BY KAYLAN KHOURIE, FGA The author of this article is a FGA qualified gemmologist and laboratory gemmologist at EGL South Africa. Sunstone falls part of the Feldspar mineral group. It is known There are also transparent Sunstones from Oregon in the USA. for exhibiting what is called “Aventurescence. Aventurescence They are often green and/or red in colour, with small copper is a type of iridescence (a play-of-colour) that is caused by the inclusions (often in “streams”) creating a “Schiller” effect. reflection of small, thin and platy inclusions - copper, goethite and/or hematite in the case of Sunstone - that are spread in a Figure 2: Oregon Sunstone. parallel orientation through the gem. This causes interference of light between the layers of platelets which creates the glittery sheen associated with Sunstone. The larger and more abundant the inclusions are, the more “Aventurescent\" the stone will be and the deeper the golden colour will appear. Figure 1: Orthoclase Sunstone. Sunstone species Sunstone falls into three species of the Feldspar group depending on its chemistry: Orthoclase, Oligoclase and Labradorite (this is also into where the Oregon material falls). Orthoclase falls under the “Alkali Feldspar” (also known as “K-Feldspar”) category whereas Oligoclase and Labradorite fall under the “Plagioclase Feldspar” category. Below is a table of each species of Sunstone and some of their properties: Species Chemical Composition Specific Gravity Refractive Index Birefringence Orthoclase Range Range Range Oligoclase Labradorite KAlSi₃O₈ 2.57 – 2.59 1.518 - 1.526 0.005 -0.008 Oregon material Solid solution between NaAlSi₃O₈ 2.65 – 2.68 1.539 - 1.547 0.007 - 0.010 and CaAlSi₂O₈ 2.70 – 2.72 2.67 - 2.72 1.559 - 1.568 0.007 - 0.010 Solid solution between NaAlSi₃O₈ and CaAlSi₂O₈ 1.563 - 1.572 0.009 Solid solution between NaAlSi₃O₈ and CaAlSi₂O₈ PAGE 5

However, the gems being marketed as “Sunstone” are almost Figure 3: Uncut and always pieces of man-made glass containing an abundance tumbled pieces of of tiny copper inclusions. The correct name for this is Goldstone. “Aventurine Glass” - however the misnomer “Goldstone” is more popular for marketing purposes. Ironic, given that it is coloured by copper, not gold. Goldstone vs Sunstone Imitation gems are usually manufactured to have properties (physical and optical) that are close to the gem that they are imitating - either to create an appearance as close to the imitated gem as possible or as an attempt to make its real identity difficult for the gemmologist to discover. This is why Goldstone has a refractive index and/or specific gravity that overlap with the different Sunstone species: LINKED BY JEWELLERS' NETWORK / GEMSTONES AND PEARLS EDITION / © COPYRIGHT 2020 Identification Chemical Specific Gravity Refractive Index Birefringence Goldstone Composition Range Range 0.000 SiO₂ 2.50 - 2.80 1.530 to 1.550 Figure 4: Abundance of tiny triangular The defining factor is that glass is amorphous (which means that it has no crystal and hexagonal platelets of copper. structure) and therefore “singly refractive” – only one ray of light passes through the gem. Whereas Feldspar is part of either the Monoclinic (Labradorite and Oligoclase) or Triclinic (Orthoclase) crystal system – which means they have asymmetrical crystal axes lengths and angles. So their crystals grow at different rates and angles and refract the light that passes into them unevenly. This is the reason why they are “doubly refractive” – the gem splits the light into two rays. The visual appearance and microscopic observations are also very useful in identifying Goldstone because it is coloured by an abundance of tiny triangular and hexagonal platelets of copper. Inclusions in Sunstone Full disclosure should always be given! Similarly to Goldstone, Sunstone is typically included with Imitations of natural gems will always be readily available copper platelets - however they additionally contain long because it enables the consumer to buy something that looks hematite and/or goethite platelets. As mentioned above, similar to its natural counterpart. This is not a problem since the this is the reason for the Aventurescence. simulant, for the most part, has a very similar appearance to that of the natural gem - and it comes at a fraction of the cost. Here are some images of inclusions and features related to Sunstone: What is important is that full disclosure about a gem should always be given so that the consumer, who may not always be Figure 5: Layered platelets of Figure 6: Manganese stains, which familiar with trade terminology, understands exactly what they goethite and hematite. although uncommon, may occur. are buying and what its fair market value is. For example, one should never buy a cubic zirconia under the impression that it is a diamond, at a diamond’s price. Therefore, it is always wise to insist on a gemmological certificate of some kind from a reliable laboratory when purchasing a gemstone, especially one of significant value. This industry can be somewhat untrustworthy at times, so being sure of a gem’s true identity can certainly save you a lot of money. So be weary when being offered a desirable and usually expensive gem, at a relatively “cut-price” deal. All rights reserved. This article is the sole property of Kaylan Khourie and may not be reproduced by any form or means without the express written consent by Kaylan Khourie. All images have been captured by and belong to the author. PAGE 6

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We are in the age of experience. LINKED BY JEWELLERS' NETWORK / GEMSTONES AND PEARLS EDITION / © COPYRIGHT 2020 People are no longer buying things for the sake of having more.We choose what we own because it means something to us; it has significance or sentimental value. Gemstones have always resonated with people for this reason. Every gem has a special quality; a secret energy; and a fascinating story. Intercolour celebrates this legacy with a beautiful collection of classic gems, as well as a selection of on-trend stones that will appeal to a millennial audience. We understand that the experience of choosing a gem starts with you; the jeweller and manufacturers. And so we invite you to come and explore our incredible compilation of gems; to hand select the perfect stone for your client. Nandi Ferguson +27 10 020 2102 [email protected] PAGE 8

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Henry Gold JUST ARRIVED ALSO AVAILABLE LINKED BY JEWELLERS' NETWORK / GEMSTONES AND PEARLS EDITION / © COPYRIGHT 2020 A COMPRHENSIVE RANGE OF 9CT GOLD JEWELLERY 1st Floor Market Hse TERMS AVAILABLE Guaranteed Crn. St.Georges Mall& Shortmarket Str, Cape Town. Best Prices Best Quality Tel.: 021 4240923/24 Best Variety of Goods Fax: 021 4240926 Best Payment Terms e-mail:[email protected] PAGE 10

FF EE AA TT UU RR EE DD AA RR TT II CC LL EE ARTICLE BY TENNILLE HOGE Cape Tools and Jewellery Supplies are excited Cape Tools & Jewellery Supplies identified a crucial pairing was to share their product news with the industry necessary to capture the high resolution output on 3D resin when it creates a win win outcome. models which would otherwise be lost. This is where the quality of R&R’s Plasti-Cast investment powder matches detail for detail Addressing productivity, we understand time and finishes are in replicating intricate 3D printed pieces into gold or Astro-Vest foremost in the workshop strategy to meet customer’s orders for platinum high temperature alloys. The pre-purchase decision sooner than expected. Introducing Randsom & Randolph process on a 3D Printer should be carefully researched together investment powder, a premium International brand from the USA with a knowledgeable supplier that can advise, train and offer caters for every demand whether you are a large casting house the full compliment of consumables and spare parts on an or a boutique jewellery store producing bespoke jewellery. ongoing basis. Ultra-Vest and Plasticast investments are suited for investing and Finally to complete Cape Tools offering in the latest burnout of commonly used resin or wax materials. Astro-Vest advances in finishing systems Murua Universal offers investment for high temperature alloys. All R&R products are the innovative solution to automation. developed using only premium grade raw materials whereby these products ensure the highest quality and consistent The master machine for many types of metals. finishes for the manufacturer. It is crucial to underscore every The new concept of a finishing system with consideration a jeweller should apply his mind to when making electro-polishing technology with automatic time a decision to appoint an investment brand. The chosen brand saving procedures. Gold 8-24ct , Silver and Brass literally translates into the crucial link that either produces a alloys can all be processed in one machine with result which costs productivity in substantial man hours to different liquids. Easy Gold recovery process with prepare and finish the article perfectly or a premium investment 95% metal back, both large and small pieces can brand that produces instant and amazing surface finishes in be processed in the Murua with outstanding results. the moment. Considering the load shedding predicament R&R Casting a light sand of 800 grit placed into the unit for burnout cycles are substantially lower than its peers. 90 minutes will produce a high polished finish in no time. Or immediately post casting stage a cycle of Talking productivity and technology - B9 Creations (B9C) first 4-6 hours produces a polished finish. undertook to research which industry needed a specialized 3D printer to be built around its needs and addressed the Cape Tools continues to place emphasis on a diverse range, demand for inefficiencies existing 3D printers could not deliver which tracks technology. Coupled with every sale is our service to the market. Specifically price, speed and resolution were offering in the form of individual consultation with product incorporated into the prototype model. Translated directly demonstrations and after sales training and support. B9C delivers a mid-priced machine that prints at speeds and resolutions only high premium printers cater for. The return VISIT OUR WEBSITE AT on investment also becomes the main selling point whereby W W W.C A P E T O O L S .C O. Z A calculations were made to supply quality resins, eliminate annual license fees and design B9C’s dura-vat to deliver extended longevity up to 600 prints compared to an average of 230 to 100 prints. Therefore B9C vision meant at the press of a button each print translates into a discount on the original price owing to substantially lower operating costs without compromising quality. Yes, the greater volumes you print the faster the return on investment. PAGE 11

VALUE LIES IN LINKED BY JEWELLERS' NETWORK / GEMSTONES AND PEARLS EDITION / © COPYRIGHT 2020 THE RESULTS B9CREATIONS DIGITAL 3D PRINTER LOWEST PRINT COST PER UNIT & FASTEST HIGH RES PRINTER ON THE MARKET REDUCING LONG TERMS COSTS. The B9 Core Series is the new industry leader in speed, simplicity, and value. BIG ON DEFINITION PREMIUM QUALITY INVESTMENT POWDERS RANSOM & RANDOLPH INVESTMENT POWDER Use the B9Creations Digital 3D Printer together with the Ransom & Randolph Investment Powder to get a perfect metal cast item. O R D E R O N L I N E O R F O R M O R E I N F O R M AT I O N www.capetools.co.za 0861 11 51 37 / [email protected] / Castle Mews building, 39 Sir Lowry c/o Russell street, CapeTown. PAGE 12

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“ They say neessity is the “ Mother of all Innntions THEY ALSO SAY IMITATION IS THE HIGHEST FORM OF FLATTERY In quoting the above, we at Jewellers’ Network can proudly state we are consistently striving to acknowledge your necessities and therefore inventing new advertising avenues. Constantly Fulfilling your advertising needs - all for you, our loyal advertisers. Even though there has been a fair amount of imitation, we are still at the forefront of all that is Advertising, Linking and Expanding The Jewellery, Diamond and Watch Industry in Southern Africa. Don’t get left behind, choose The Leader, The Innovator, The Advertiser with the Largest Audited Readership... CHOOSE JEWELLERS’ NETWORK CALL SANCIA: 010 030 0888 PAGE 17

Specialist supplier of fine quality Tanzanite FoundationTM LINKED BY JEWELLERS' NETWORK / GEMSTONES AND PEARLS EDITION / © COPYRIGHT 2020 certified loose tanzanite and certified Tanzanite BlueTM jewellery. www.tanzanitecompany.co.za [email protected] C +27 82 601 3621 [email protected] C +27 83 231 8919 P.O Box 85084, Emmarentia, 2029 T +27 11 446 5900 F +27 86 614 7433 PAGE 18

FF EE AA TT UU RR EE DD AA RR TT II CC LL EE WavesDiving into othefpceahrl asenctogr e A RT IC L E BY A R A B E L L A RO D E N | W W W.J E W E L L E R M AG A Z I N E .C OM From environmental challenges to a surprising new consumer market, Arabella Roden explores recent developments in the pearl sector. After a long-dormant period in the jewellery Quick numbers market, pearls enjoyed something of a renaissance in the 2010s, returning to fashion catwalks and 13% predicted expansion of pearl jewellery houses in new and exciting designs. jewellery market, 2019 – 2025 With a wide variety of cultured pearls on the market – and their 30+ number of countries comparatively affordable price point – consumers responded producing pearls with enthusiasm. 60% decline in pearl production, The renewed passion for pearls was reflected in record-breaking 2009 – 2019 auction prices. A large natural pearl pendant once belonging to French queen Marie Antoinette sold for $US36.1 million 39% decline in output value of ($AU53.8 milion) in 2018, more than ten times its estimate; pearls, 2009 – 2019 the La Peregrina pearl necklace, previously owned by actress Elizabeth Taylor, was auctioned for $US11 million ($AU16.4 million) in 2011. Since then, the sector has continued to evolve, with ever more creative settings and combinations of pearls with other gemstones and metals. More than 98 per cent of the pearls produced worldwide are freshwater cultured pearls grown in China. Meanwhile, Japan, French Polynesia, Indonesia, and Australia are leading producers of saltwater pearls, including Akoya, Tahitian, and South Sea pearls. In its December report, US research firm Arizton Advisory & 2019/10/11 11:48 AM Intelligence projected that the global pearl jewellery market wouldOeCTxp1a9ndMabgayz1i3nepSetrrciepnst1b8e4t.w5 ememnx20313.95ammndAU2G02159.. pdf 1 C M Y CM MY CY CMY K PAGE 19

However, the pearl sector is also facing serious challenges, Rachael Abbott, marketing director at Timesupply – which LINKED BY JEWELLERS' NETWORK / GEMSTONES AND PEARLS EDITION / © COPYRIGHT 2020 including declining output and quality. According to research distributes Coeur de Lion, Qudo and Dansk – has also noticed from the South China Sea Fisheries Research Institute (SCSFRI) the baroque trend in the fashion jewellery category. and Australia’s University of the Sunshine Coast (USC), published in 2019, global pearl production fell by 60 per cent “The Dansk Baroque pearl collection has proven very popular, and output value by 39 per cent over the past decade. adding texture and contrast to this already very unique, edgy range inspired by the raw structure of nature.” TO COPE WITH THE INCREASED DEMAND, PEARLING OPERATIONS HAVE EXPANDED This trend is in line with the Gen Z and Millennial consumers’ desire for authenticity and personalisation; instead of a TO MORE THAN 30 COUNTRIES. perfectly matched string of pearls, consumers are embracing mismatched earrings and multicolour strand necklaces. The sensitivity of pearl molluscs to environmental change, pollution, and natural disasters – as well as the technical “Multi-coloured strands are an easy-to-wear option because one precision required for sustainable pearl husbandry – place strand goes with a lot of colours in terms of clothing, and can unique constraints on this sector of the jewellery industry. work both in the evening and daytime,” says June Mann, director of Pearl Specialists, which supplies Japanese Akoya, South Sea As a result, jewellers are turning to a variety of countries for their and Tahitian pearls. pearls, exploring more local options, or opting for sophisticated pearl simulants to satisfy customers’ desire for the gem’s “Pearls with a strong design element – not just plain strands but uniquely captivating sheen. mix of different sizes, or pieces that combine pearls with different gemstones – have also become more popular.” Perfectly imperfect Meanwhile, Linney says the fashion jewellery sector’s trend One of the dominant trends of the past two years is the rise of for faux pearl hair clips and pearl-embellished clothing has baroque – irregular shaped – pearls, and demand shows no sign “translated through to fine jewellery”, with Linneys Jewellery of slowing down in 2020. receiving more enquiries into brooches and pins. Ikecho Australia stocks a wide variety of Akoya, Mabe, Above: Annoushka freshwater, Australian South Sea and Tahitian pearl jewellery, and founder Erica Miller says freshwater baroque style pearls have been the most commonly purchased shape over the past 12 months. Far from the uniform symmetry of a classic round pearl, baroques reflect the organic and unpredictable nature of pearl formation – and allow jewellers abundant opportunities for creative design. They have been seen on the recent catwalks of fashion houses like Alexander McQueen and Dolce & Gabbana. IN THE PAST 12 MONTHS WE Above: Autore HAVE SEEN TRENDS TOWARDS THE BAROQUE SHAPED PEARLS, WITH THE IRREGULARITY AND UNIQUENESS OF EACH BAROQUE PEARL APPEALING TO C U S TO M E R S M O R E R E C E N T LY, ~ says Justin Linney, creative director at Linneys Jewellery in Perth. ~ OCT 19 Magazine Strips 184.5 mm x 33.5mm AUG 19.pdf 2 2019/10/11 11:48 AM C M Y CM MY CY CMY K PAGE 20

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FF EE AA TT UU RR EE DD AA RR TT II CC LL EE Colour and lustre ( WAV E S O F C H A NG E C ON T I N U E D) However, baroques are not the only trend shaping A significant benefit of pearls is their broad colour spectrum, today’s pearl market. There is still room for the which makes these gems adaptable to different jewellery classics, with Miller noting that large freshwater designs and finishes. In addition to classic white Australian pearls – measuring more than 12mm – have become South Sea pearls and Japanese Akoya pearls, and black popular due to their ability to mimic the expensive Tahitian pearls, Ikecho stocks freshwater Edison pearls. These look of South Sea pearls. nucleated pearls are grown in the Hyriopsis cumingii, or triangle mussel, and display natural colours of purple, peach, pink, and Australian South Sea pearls are considered to be the highest gold, as well as white and grey. Ikecho also stocks multicolour quality and most expensive in the world. Grown in Pinctada freshwater Keshi pearl bracelets and multicolour Tahitian maxima giant oysters off the coast of Western Australia in pearl necklaces. saltwater beds, these pearls are prized for their large size and enticing lustre, which is likened to a soft glow rather than the Faux pearls such as Swarovski crystal pearls are another option more mirror-like sheen of freshwater pearls. for jewellers looking to offer a broader range of colours and cater to the fashion jewellery market. They have the added benefit of “Our collection is predominantly the Australian South Sea pearls being more hardwearing than natural pearls, which are graded as we are renowned for creating unique jewellery with these at 2.5 on Mohs’ scale. pearls – although we also love working with golden South Sea and black Tahitian pearls,” Linney says. “Pearl-style jewellery continues to be popular, with unique uses of complementary materials such as cut glass and Swarovski Indeed, the wider market is embracing golden South Sea crystals in rose gold and champagne tones creating a beautiful pearls, largely sourced from the Philippines and Indonesia. an elegant style alongside pearl textures,” Abbott explains. Jewelmer, a company specialising exclusively in golden South Sea pearls and pearl jewellery, opened its first boutique outside She adds, “Swarovski crystal pearls continue to be very popular the Philippines, in Palm Beach, Florida, last year. In the CIBJO in the Qudo Interchangeable range, where a variety of styles and Pearl Commission’s annual report, published in November last colours adorn rings, necklaces, earrings and bracelets.” year, Jewelmer noted that Myanmar (Burma) is a burgeoning competitor in the golden South Sea pearl market, though quality and volume remain unstable. Further along the colour spectrum, Mann says “darker natural blue Akoya have become popular in the 8mm and above sizes, both round and baroque, and peacock-coloured Tahitian pearls remain popular, particularly larger sizes of 12mm and above.” DARKER NATURAL BLUE AKOYA HAVE BE- COME POPULAR IN THE 8MM AND ABOVE SIZES, BOTH ROUND AND BAROQUE, AND PEACOCK-COLOURED TAHITIAN PEARLS REMAIN POPULAR ~ June Mann, Pearl Specialists ~ PAGE 23

A Rainbow of Colours LINKED BY JEWELLERS' NETWORK / GEMSTONES AND PEARLS EDITION / © COPYRIGHT 2020 Like diamonds, untreated pearls can be found in a wide variety of colours. The colour of a pearl is determined by the type of mollusc it originates from, the thickness of its nacre, and miscroscopic pigments in its conchiolin – the organic ‘glue’ within the nacre. There are three components when observing pearl colour: body colour, overtone, and orient. The body colour is the dominant hue of the pearl, while the overtone refers to the ‘translucent’ or reflective colours of the pearl and the orient is the rainbow-like iridescence of the pearl. Pearl Colour Chart WHITE GREEN Both saltwater and freshwater On the east coast of Australia, Pinctada molluscs can produce the classic fucata are cultured to produce Akoya white pearl, but Australian South Sea pearls with a variety of natural hues, pearls from the silver-lipped Pinctada including a unique silver-green. maxima are the most sought after. GOLD BLACK Gold-lipped Pinctada maxima The black-lipped oysters of the oysters produce golden South Sea South Pacific, Pinctada margaritifera, pearls. These pearls can range from produce natural black pearls, soft champagne to deep gold, with often referred to as Tahitian pearl. more saturated colour commanding Rainbow-lipped oysters – Pteria higher prices. They are found in the sterna, found in Mexico – also Philippines, Indonesia, Australia and produce natural black pearls. Myanmar (Burma). PINK LAVENDER Freshwater pearls – those grown in Freshwater pearls from the Hyriopsis mussels like Hyriopsis cumingii and cumingii mussels occur in shades from Cristaria plicata – can be naturally pale lilac to deep violet. They are often pink. They are commonly farmed in grown in China. China and Japan. PAGE 24

FEATURED ARTICLE Unusual appeal ( WAV E S O F C H A NG E C ON T I N U E D) Perhaps the most unusual development in the At Linneys Jewellery, Tahitian pearls are fashioned into neoprene sector is the increased number of men embracing cuffs, nestled alongside 18-carat rose gold, tantalum metal, and pearl jewellery. Pearls have long been associated flush-set white diamonds. with femininity, and traditionally, men have preferred more robust gemstone or metal pieces “We notice that men are initially given jewellery as a gift, then that require less care. once they start wearing it and enjoying it, they will feel confident to buy it for themselves,” Linney says. “The black Tahitian pearls Yet, men’s pearl jewellery – particularly necklaces, but also provide a stunning range of colours – from peacock green to earrings and brooches – have recently graced the menswear grey and purple hues – that give a masculine look to the men’s collections of designers like Gucci and Dior. jewellery. Pearls are also more hard-wearing than people assume,” he adds. Meanwhile, Japanese pearl producer Mikimoto recently announced a jewellery collection designed with fashion brand Indeed, while pearls have a reputation for fragility, treatments Commes des Garçons. such as bleaching are often responsible for cracks and splits in the nacre. Untreated pearls may be selected to avoid this Lead by celebrities including rapper A$AP Rocky, singers Harry problem. Additionally, men’s pearl cuffs are also unlikely to be Styles and Shawn Mendes, and actors Ezra Miller and Kris degraded by hairspray, perfume and cosmetics, which can Wu, the men’s pearl trend is beginning to gain traction on the occur with women’s jewellery. red carpet as well as the catwalk. Some jewellers have already incorporated pearls into their men’s collections – albeit in a To ensure pearl pieces last, Mann recommends jewellery more subtle and conservative way, to appeal to the tastes of retailers offer all customers advice on pearl care, including Australian customers. cleaning and storage. “Proper care makes a lot of difference how long they will keep their beauty,” she says. Mikimoto x Commes De Garçons Harry Styles has been spotted in pearls Shawn Mendes wore pearls at the jewellery collection 2020 multiple times in the past year MTV VMAs and the 2020 Grammys 2020 Trend: Men in Pearls OCT 19 Magazine Strips 184.5 mm x 33.5mm W.pdf 1 2019/10/11 9:27 AM C M Y CM MY CY CMY K PAGE 25

Factors impacting the pearl supply LINKED BY JEWELLERS' NETWORK / GEMSTONES AND PEARLS EDITION / © COPYRIGHT 2020 While the pearl market remains robust, there These factors have reduced oyster supply, growth rates, are challenges in sourcing both locally and survival, and pearl yield and quality in some countries. Perhaps internationally. the most well known example is the proliferation of Akoya viral disease amongst the Japanese oyster population in 1996. BECAUSE PEARLS ARE A NATURAL An influx of pollution caused widespread immunological collapse ORGANIC GEMSTONE, THEY ARE NOT among Akoya pearl-producing Pinctada fucata, drastically A LWAY S AVA I L A B L E , D E P E N D I N G O N reducing pearl yield and quality. THE TIME OF YEAR In 2019, Japanese authorities confirmed the sudden death of ~ Erica Miller, Ikecho Australia ~ 20 million Akoya pearl oysters, reducing stock by 70 per cent in some areas. According to Takeshi Miura, a professor at Ehime Miller explains. “At harvest time, sometimes we can’t supply University Faculty of Agriculture, it was the first mass die-off particular shapes and colours. Our customers understand, and since 1996. we will offer them an alternative to suit their needs.” Miura attributed the deaths to multiple factors, including As an organic gemstone from the marine environment, the pearl underfeeding and overcrowding, and the effects are expected to supply is also particularly susceptible to changes to ecosystems be felt in 2021, when the oysters would have been harvested. and farming practices. Meanwhile, Chinese pearl producers have faced several rounds The SCSFRI and USC research noted that “urbanisation of government bans and closures over the past four years for and industrialisation in traditional pearl farming areas, and breaches of water quality standards, introduced in 2015. stressed and impoverished coastal environments have led to In order to increase production, farms also began overstocking some serious problems and big challenges for sustainable and reducing the production cycle – harvesting earlier than develoOpCTme19ntMoafgathzeinpeeSatrrl iapqsua18c4u.lt5urmem inxd3u3s.t5rmym.” W.pdf 2 2019/10/11 usual – resulting in pearls with thin nacre. 9:27 AM C M Y CM MY CY CMY K PAGE 26

As a result, the Chinese pearl industry has consolidated into Above: L to R: Autore, Paspaley, Kailis, Ikecho Australia fewer producing farms, and increasingly relied on post-harvest treatments such as bleaching and maeshori. Japan remains the largest Akoya pearl producer in the world, with an industry valued at $US127 million ($AU189 million) A technique developed in Japan, maeshori is used to improve per year. lustre, one of the most critical pearl grading elements alongside size, shape, colour and surface quality. It also assists in the According the CIBJO Pearl Commission report, a new bleaching process, known as hyohaku. dedicated Pearl Council has been established in Japan with a mandate that includes promoting the sustainable production of However, maeshori leaves the nacre more brittle, and over- oysters and pearls, improvement of productivity and quality of treatment can cause pearls to become ‘chalky’. the pearls, and conservation of the pearl farm environment. Recent reports suggest maeshori is now extremely widespread Meanwhile, Katherine Kovacs, director K&K Export Import, in the Chinese and Japanese freshwater pearl industries – to the says pearl stocks can be threatened by factors other than extent that many do not consider it a ‘treatment’, but rather a unsustainable farming practices or over-treatment. “Natural normal component of pearl processing. disasters can have a significant impact on pearl production as they can drastically alter the marine environment, as well as Mann, who sources Akoya pearls in Japan, explains, “Not destroy the infrastructure of pearl farms,” she explains. everyone follows the same process, but maeshori is the standard practice on Akoya pearls in some form or another, Earthquakes are frequent in Indonesia, which is the world’s except for genuine namadama – completely untreated/ largest producer of South Sea pearls by volume. unprocessed pearls.\" According to the CIBJO Pearl Commission report, “greater Mann considers alcohol-soaking maeshori to be “more of a mild fluctuations in water temperature, ocean acidification, and the pre-processing than a treatment” as it does not substantially changing of the plankton profile” as a result of climate change change the pearls. will also limit pearl volumes from the Philippines in the next year. THE DETAILS OF THE PROCESS CAN VA RY. M A E S H O R I U S UA L LY I N VO LV E S SOAKING THE PEARLS IN AN ALCOHOL SOLUTION TO MAKE THE BLEACHING PROCESS MORE EFFECTIVE AND TO REMOVE SOME OF THE YELLOW HUE. PAGE 27

FEATURED ARTICLE Supply chain integrity ( WAV E S O F C H A NG E C ON T I N U E D) Alongside sustainability, provenance has become “To meet our Chain of Custody Standard, each part of the LINKED BY JEWELLERS' NETWORK / GEMSTONES AND PEARLS EDITION / © COPYRIGHT 2020 a focus of the broader jewellery industry. In the supply chain is audited. In order to achieve and maintain past 12 months, CIBJO released its first Responsible certification, companies undergo regular scheduled and Sourcing Blue Book and its ‘Do’s And Don’ts’ guide unannounced surveillance audits from an independent to ethical and responsible gem handling. accreditation body.” Speaking to Jeweller last year, Russell Shor, senior industry The MSC certification applies to all wild-caught Australian analyst Gemological Institute of America, said, “Along with South Sea pearl oysters, such as those harvested by Paspaley, sustainability, consumers also want to know where their gems, Australia’s oldest and largest pearling business. and even their gold, come from.” Ultimately, while the pearl sector may face unique difficulties It’s a consumer trend noted by Linney, who adds that a pearl’s in the short- and long-term, governments and businesses are origin can form a unique selling point for jewellers: “Our responding to ensure the future remains bright for this uniquely customers are certainly interested to know where the pearls in beautiful gem. their jewellery come from in regards to being ethically sourced, but also because it is part of the story as to how they were WHAT IS MAESHORI? formed and the lure of the pearl,” he explains. NAT U R A L DI SA S T E R S C A N H AV E A The term maeshori translates to ‘before treatment’ in SIGNIFICA N T I M PACT ON PEA R L Japanese. While techniques vary, it usually involves soaking pearls in hydrogen peroxide and/or methyl alcohol, mineral PRODUC T ION AS T H EY CA N DR AST ICA LLY salts and ammonia, or alternately heating and chemically ALTER T HE M A RINE EN VIRONMEN T, AS treating the gems in order to reduce the space between the nacre platelets. WELL AS DESTROY THE INFRASTRUCTURE OF PEARL FAR MS For this reason, it has been described as a pearl ‘facelift’ as it ‘tightens’ the nacre and thereby improves lustre. ~ Katherine Kovacs, K&K Export Import ~ However, there has been difficulty applying traceability June Mann, director Pearl Specialists, sources Akoya pearls intiatives to the global pearl industry. While the diamond in Japan that have undergone maeshori. She explains: industry has pursued blockchain tracking through laser “Generally, pearls that have gone through just maeshori – inscription, the technique is not applied to pearls as they and also generally hyohaku (bleaching) – are still sold as are not routinely certified. ‘natural’, and certainly as muchoshoku, meaning not colour- enhanced. In fact, muchoshoku includes those pearls that have gone through both maeshori and hyohaku.” Additionally, scientific analysis of pearls cannot determine a Mann considers the alcohol-soaking form of maeshori to pearl’s country of origin. However, it is not impossible to ensure be a mild form of pearl processing: “It is less of a treatment traceability in the pearl supply chain. than the polishing that is often performed on Akoya, and certainly much less of a treatment than bleaching or colour As of 2017, all commercial wild-catch oysters in Australia have enhancement,” she adds. been independently certified against the standards of the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC), an international non-profit Australian Akoya pearls – which are grown in limited numbers organisation that promotes sustainable fishing. on the mid-north coast of New South Wales – do not undergo maeshori. They display a high-quality lustre due to A spokesperson for the Marine Stewardship Council told thicker nacre, which is achieved through longer growth times Jeweller, “The MSC sustainability standards comprise not only for the oysters. how the oysters are caught in the wild, but also the journey through the supply chain from the ocean to the consumer.\" PAGE 28

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PAGE 36 LINKED BY JEWELLERS' NETWORK / GEMSTONES AND PEARLS EDITION / © COPYRIGHT 2020

FF EE AA TT UU RR EE DD AA RR TT II CC LL EE Traditional jewellery and intellectual property protection A RTICLE BY PA M ELA M ALULEK E - T R ADE M A R K AT TOR N EY Throughout history, necklaces, beadwork Similarly, in Kenya, the Protection of Traditional Knowledge and jewellery designs have always featured in and Cultural Expressions Act, includes provisions that ensure African culture, as a decorative feature, but “communities receive royalties for the use of their cultures and more importantly for the symbolism the article cultural heritage’ (Article 11(3(a)). The Kenyan government aims conveyed. to ensure that the Traditional Knowledge is commercialized to benefit the communities. To this day, many cultures continue to produce traditional jewellery with the aim of retaining the symbolism, which has In South Africa, due to the lack of clarity regarding the been passed down for centuries. protection of traditional knowledge, the Protection, Promotion, Development and Management of Indigenous Knowledge The Masai culture in Kenya, for instance, uses beadwork for Systems Bill, 2016 was drafted to ensure adequate protection their necklaces that symbolises age and social status. The was provided to traditional knowledge. women in these tribes wear these beaded pieces as a sign of wealth, marital status, health and to denote the number of The Bill ultimately envisages that the holder of traditional children they have. For instance, if a woman’s first child is a boy, knowledge will be entitled to benefit from the commercial use she wears many earrings. of that traditional knowledge and restrain any unauthorised use thereof. The definition of cultural expression in the Bill, is wide In South Africa, in previous years, wives in the Ndebele culture enough to include accessories and jewellery designs. wore copper necklaces to symbolise faithfulness to husbands. Traditional African jewellery designs have become a prominent The commercialisation of traditional knowledge is a way to feature on the international fashion stage. Many fashion brands protect the past, while ensuring that the communities benefit are taking inspiration from traditional African jewellery and from the use of the traditional knowledge. The Bill must ensure showcasing it on a global stage. strict guidelines are in place to ensure that the communities are not exploited, and the income and/or benefits derived from the There is an ever-growing international demand for the sale and traditional knowledge assists the communities. purchase of traditional jewellery on a commercial scale. This interest in traditional jewellery, has resulted in accusations of Until the enactment of the Bill, traditional jewellery will continue cultural appropriation and exploitation of certain populations’ to be protected under the current Intellectual Property laws, indigenous culture. Therefore, many indigenous communities in terms of copyright law, for artistic works, and trade mark worldwide have called for stricter statutory regulations to ensure protection for traditional patterns and designs. Therefore, for the protection of their traditional knowledge. communities looking to protect their traditional jewellery, it will be advisable to consult an IP attorney to determine the best In New Zealand, the indigenous Maori people have a rich course of action. culture, which became subject to many trade mark registrations. In order to safeguard the traditional knowledge, a new legislation In order to receive further information about stipulates that the New Zealand Intellectual Property Institute KISCH IP or this topic, please contact: (IPONZ) cannot grant a trade mark if it considers that its use or registration may offend the Maori people. +27 (0) 11 324 3000 [email protected] www.kisch-ip.com PAGE 37

Tel: 021 422 4677 or 021 424 0063 or 076 162 3741 LINKED BY JEWELLERS' NETWORK / GEMSTONES AND PEARLS EDITION / © COPYRIGHT 2020 Whatsapp: 076 162 3741 or 064 903 0380 Email: [email protected] or [email protected] Website: www.ajantaafrika.com PAGE 38

BYL 210 mm(w) x 297 mm(h) WS 2020.pdf 1 2/28/20 3:53 PM C M Y CM MY CY CMY K