Jewel Trader November 2018

DIAMONDS AND FESTIVE EDITION NOVEMBER 2018

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PAGE 3 JEWEL TRADER / NOVEMBER 2018 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK

IN THIS EDITION 6 WPO JEWELLERS' NETWORK 8 #PLATAFRICA 2018 WINNERS ANNOUNCED 14 ANGLO AMERICAN PL ATINUM 28 B.Y.L DI A MON DS TA N Z A N I T E The most imp tant part of doing 30 J. P. P. Ebusiness, is who you're doing it wi .... REVIEWING THE FEDERAL LARGE STONE SPECIALISTS. TRADE COMMISSION LOOSE DIAMONDS AND GEMSTONES. JEWELLERY GUIDES HAND CALIBRATED SMALLS. 34 CRAIG THOMAS NO CALL TOO TOUGH. 38 FASTEST SERVICE. FESTIVE GREETINGS MABÉ PEARLS AND SHELL 42 ARTHUR THOMAS QUESTIONS AND A NSW ERS PA RT 3 44 PNEUMA ACADEMY THE WORLD’S PRIME MARKETPLACE FOR DIAMONDS, GEMS & PEARLS HKTDC Publisher : Member of : Johannesburg Office Cape Town Office Jewellers’ Network Publications (Also available online) F2007, 2nd Floor 103, 1st Floor 3 Sturdee Ave 47 on Strand The Jewellers’ Network Definitive Directory Rosebank Cape Town Southern Africa’s biggest, most comprehensive business category directory in the Jewellery, Watch and +27 11 334 7228 +27 21 300 3954 Diamond industry. It is an invaluable tool for both national and international professionals within the sector. Ben Jewel Trader +27 82 831 5600 Jewellers’ Network publishes a quarterly print magazine, Jewel Trader, which is brimming with information,[email protected] product launches and in-depth articles about the sector. Josh +27 82 597 5927 Tomer Jewel Trader [email protected] +27 83 399 9769 Sent out digitally on a monthly basis and available on our website, Jewel Trader Online is a content-rich digital [email protected] magazine offering businesses yet another way to reach audiences locally and internationally more regularly. Janette +27 61 662 7441 Tel: (+27) 10 030 0888 / Fax: (+27) 86 508 5705 [email protected] Website: www.jewellersnetwork.co.za / Email: [email protected] Postal Address: PO Box 525, Fourways North, 2086 Design : Yuppiestudios Print : Jetline www.yuppiestudios.co.za www.jetline.co.za No editorial matter or information published in Jewellers’ Network Directory may be reproduced in any form without the prior consent of the publisher. The publisher accepts no responsibility, liability or obligation of any statement, photograph or illustration appearing in the advertisements. Every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of information published in this Directory, however, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any omissions or errors, or for any consequences arising there from. PAGE 4

Simplicity is the Ultimate SophisticationPAGE 5 JEWEL TRADER / NOVEMBER 2018 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK

FEATURED ARTICLEThe earth does not belong to us. We belong to the earth. ~Marlee Matlin~ This journey started with Skills 22/10/2018 WPO 760/01 Train and WPO Plant a Forest campaign in June 2018. JEWELLERS' NETWORK We managed to successfully plant 30 trees at the Congratulations on your contribution of 30 tree/s WPO Plant a Forest Site, Klein River Cheese Farm, Towards planting a living legacy Stanford. This is something we are incredibly proud At the WPO Plant a Forest Site, of as our social responsibility program. Klein River Cheese Farm, Stanford Therefore continuing our successful campaign we are Partner: Maarten Groos – Director SART taking it to the next level. Maarten Groos “WPO Plant a Forest” is a program of The South African Reforestation Trust (SART) We at Jewellers’ Network have decided to elaborate (IT 021966/2014(C) – NPO registration 200-95 on this and bring environmental responsibility to The Industry… P r o u d l yPSr o udp pl yo rstuipnpgo: r t i n g : In InICn ocllalbaobroraatitoionnwwitithh: :\"H E N R Y F O R D S A I D : Coming together is beginning. Keeping together is progress. Working together is success. In saying this we at Jewellers’ Network realise the importance of protecting the Earth’s Natural Resources. After all, without these resources, the Jewellery Industry would not even be a possibility. All of the materials our Industry depends on, come for Mother Earth. We would like to invite our Advertisers and subscribers to take part in our 2019 endevour and submit your insights and share your Environmental ResponsibilityP roudlyDPsriaoumpgproaornmtdimnagen: sdaWndaticnhitiIantdivuesstrwy iitnhiSnoTuhteheJrenwAeflrleicray., PAGE 6

What is WPO* JEWEL TRADER / NOVEMBER 2018 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK Plant a tree? *WOMEN'S PRESIDENT ORGANISATIONn c laboration with: It has been shown that deforestation of Reasons to buy a tree indigenous trees has a significant impact on sustainable ecosystems including • Donate as an individual/family/group/ team or water shortages. organization and rally for trees Trees and forests gift humans with selfless love by • Create, gift or leave a living legacy, in providing clean air, protection, food and support to remembrance/celebration of a friend or loved one the smallest and biggest of living plants, animals, insects and humans. Walk through a forest, and feel • Celebrate life events such as birthdays, election the difference in your energy, mood and well-being. Let day, mothers day, arbour day, Hanukah, us reciprocate the goodwill gifted to us by trees and Christmas etc. forests by supporting the SA Reforestation Trust in the endeavour to sell 10 000 trees. • Gift a tree instead of buying a card • Participate as a school involving the children in WPO P lant a Forest their future sustainability The mission is to plant a forest of 10 000 trees, one ...the opportunities are endless pledge at a time - in support of the South African Reforestation Trust. How to buy a tree Restoring hope 1. Go to website www.saforesttrust.com 2. Pay online with your credit card Thanks to a trusted, approved and prepared area 3. A certificate will be emailed to your chosen recipient of land, best suited for indigenous trees, the Cape Overberg Ecology can be significantly restored with OR this effort. For more than 10 trees complete order form Reaching farther together and email together with bank POP/EFT to [email protected] The WPO vision of “reaching farther together” brings all the resource of the WPO members in South Africa Become a affiliate partner for bulk to champion a project that will make a significant purchases. environmental contribution. Email to receive the affiliate form. Get your own a log in details and create your own certificate. You will be invoiced periodically. PAGE 7

FEATURED ARTICLE#PlatAfrica 2018winners announcedThe winners of the 19th annualPlatAfrica 2018 jewellery designand manufacturing competitionwere announced last night duringa theatre production style awardceremony hosted by the company atthe Theatre on the Track in Kyalami.The competition was presented inassociation with Platinum GuildInternational (PGI) India and MetalConcentrators.The judging process was managed independentlyof the management of the awards to ensure abalanced, fair and objective judging assessment.An Anglo American Business Assurance Servicesoversaw the adjudication process to ensuretransparency. PAGE 8

The winners in both the professional and JEWEL TRADER / NOVEMBER 2018 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK student & apprentice categories are: Nicki Böttcher from Nicki B Jewellery Creations who won 1st place in the professional category with her neckpiece titled, “Universal love”. Jefta Mtole from Altin Jewellers with his armpiece titled, “From a larvae to a queen” took 2nd place. Mandlenkosi Moses None from The Platinum Incubator with his Neckpiece titled, “Mandlenkosi” took 3rd place. In joint 4th place, Liezl Botha from Altin Jewellers with her Neckpiece titled, “Eternal”, Julian Roux from Pneuma Jewellers with his Neckpiece titled, “Guardian angel” and Metaxia Segal from Uwe Koetter Jewellers with her Watch titled, “Treasured time”. Callen Miller from Durban University of Technology who won 1st place in the student/apprentice category with her Neckpiece & ring titled, “Able to be”. Lonwabo Majola from Cape Peninsula University of Technology with her Neckpiece titled, “Bell of love took” took 2nd place. Zola Ntintili from Rare Earth Creations with his Earrings titled, “Bold & infinity” took 3rd place and Puleng Tsotetsi from Pneuma Jewellers with her Hairpiece titled, “Benison” took 4th place.PAGE 9

“Blessings of Love” was the theme of this year’s For further information, please contact:competition celebrating the rise of female power whileemphasising the rarity and strength of platinum and her Media:wearer through modern but timeless design. This whileshowcasing no more than two or three simple elements Mpumi Sitholeof the highest quality production, through broad design (SA) +27 (0) 11 373 6246categories namely; Nature’s Spirit, Modern Feminine and [email protected] Influence.The winners of the competition will be traveling toIndia as part of Anglo American Platinum and PGIIndia’s collaboration to participate in PGI India’s designoutsourcing process for the prestigious Evara Platinumbrand.Chris Griffith CEO of Anglo American Platinum said:“Platinum benefits from a diversity of demand withjewellery being one three major demand segments forthe metal. In positioning ourselves for our next growthphase, we continue to focus on developing the marketfor our metals with a special emphasis on supportingthe development of the platinum jewellery market.Platinum jewellery has become profoundly important tothe wellbeing of the South African mining industry. Assuch, we welcome PGI’s narrative to promote platinumas a love metal with unique characteristics and remaininspired to continue to invest in improving the designand manufacturing skills of the country’s jewellers andstudents so they can compete effectively, both locallyand internationally”.FOR FURTHER INFORMATION,PAGE 10

MAKING A REAL JEWEL TRADER / NOVEMBER 2018 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORKDIFFERENCEwith Platinum Platinum ringWe are making precious jewelleryPlatinum is a popular choice for many items The claws of gem set rings can be made withof jewellery. Its white colouring, high shine, platinum which ensures the most secure fitresistance to tarnishing and long history possible for the precious stones. This attractivemake it a popular choice from bridal jewellery metal can also be sculpted into intricateto high fashion. designs that are hard wearing and will stand the test of time. PAGE 11

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FEATURED ARTICLE aBDd.diYsasm.pLaroknle ds TO WITH EYE-CATCHING PLATINUM COLLEC T ION A N D B.Y.L COLLEC T IONSince opening its doors in B.Y.L Each stone is meticulously calibrated and set in uniqueDiamonds has cemented its reputation platinum settings, specifically designed to enhance theas one of South Africa’s leading diamond brilliance and sparkle of the diamonds.and jewellery wholesalers. While the Platinum Collection is unashamedly focusedAs a respected diamond merchant and jewellery on luxury, the B.Y.L Collection has been designed withmanufacturer, B.Y.L Diamonds has access to some of the aim of making diamond jewellery an affordablethe world’s most impressive loose cut diamonds, in a indulgence, and each piece in this enormously populardazzling array of shapes, sizes, colours and clarities. range has been carefully created to over-deliver on value.This has allowed the talented team of designers andjewellery craftsmen in their Cape Town studio to Every piece in the B.Y.L Collection is centred on acreate unique jewellery collections, ensuring bespoke single striking fancy shape diamond, surrounded byhandcrafted jewellery becomes an affordable luxury a halo of smaller diamonds. To add complexity – andwith something to suit the needs of each and every the sense that the whole is greater than the sum of theclient’s clientele. parts – every piece has an enormous amount of detail worked into it, with settings in yellow, white and roseAnd the response from the market has been nothing gold. This Collection also comes with an eye-catchingshort of overwhelming, with both the B.Y.L Collection velvet-topped jewellery stand (40cm x 40cm), its shapeand Platinum Collection creating huge excitement mirroring the striking clover-leaf motif that runs throughamongst local retailers. the Collection.The Platinum Collection is the flagship, designed with “Our main goal is to provide our clients with the bestunabashed luxury and sophistication in mind. Across the quality products at the most competitive prices, andrange – which includes rings and elegant drop earrings that is why the manufacturing of these two exclusive– only the finest fancy shape diamonds have been used. Collections were of utmost importance to us,” says OmriThis includes the remarkable 85-facet Crisscut® and Yedid Levi, Chief Executive Officer of B.Y.L Diamonds.Crisscut® Cushion. “We view our clients as long-term partners and consider their success ours.”The range is certainly eye-catching, and includes anunusual two-stone ring set with a pair of Crisscut® Each piece in both the Platinum Collection and B.Y.Lstones, while the Crisscut® Cushion is used to Collection has been designed and produced locally,remarkable effect in a five-stone eternity band. and are packaged with formal certification from leading gemmological institutes.Across the range, the Platinum Collection offers unrivalledquality and is firmly aimed at clients who appreciate thetrue value of investing in high quality jewellery. TO BECOME A STOCKIST, OR TO FIND OUT MORE ABOUT THE PL ATINUM AND B.Y.L COLLECTION,CONTACT B.Y.L DIAMONDS ON 021 419 20 0 0/0 60 801 4954, OR EMAIL [email protected] PAGE 14

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Tel: 021 422 4677 or 021 424 0063 or 076 162 3741 Whatsapp: 076 162 3741 or 064 903 0380 Email: [email protected] or [email protected] Website: www.ajantaafrika.com PAGE 18

JEWEL TRADER / NOVEMBER 2018 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORKDurban based manufacturing jewellery specialising in Indian and fushion jewellery. Call us for all insurance replacement claims. Contact: Aroon Bhoora Tel: +27 31 301 3963 • Fax: +27 86 528 6516 • Cell: +27 83 777 6657 [email protected] • www.piyuvejewellers.co.za Photos courtesy of Mark Horton Photography: [email protected] / 084-388-2233 PAGE 19

Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair Wows Buyers and VisitorsThe 62nd Bangkok Gems and Jewelry Fair left a lasting impression for buyers, visitors and exhibitors withrobust trading activities and a variety of creative and innovative jewelry from Thai and international exhibitors. Organised by the Department of International Trade Promotion (DITP), Ministry of Commerce, the 62nd edition of Bangkok Gems and Jewelry Fair was held under the theme of “Heritage & Craftsmanship” which highlighted Thailand’s cultural heritage, promoting the exquisite craftsmanship of Thai artisans. Held on September 7-11, 2018 at IMPACT, Muang Thong Thani, Bangkok, Thailand, the fair attracted visitors from 107 countries with top five visiting nations from India, China, Myanmar, USA and Vietnam.In this edition, 914 exhibitors participated at the fair, occupying 2,066 booths with companies from countries asdiverse as China, Poland, Turkey, Japan, Singapore, India, Israel, Indonesia, South Korea, Nigeria and USA. A total ofTHB 2,400 million in trade value was generated at the show.Buyers and visitors to the 62nd Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair also participated in networking activities, seminars,and visited special zones at the fair such as The Niche Showcase which presented jewelry for niche markets,The New Faces which showcased 150 exhibitors who are Thai SMEs, and The Jewellers which presented creative andinnovative products from brands that had participated in the Talent Thai and Designers’ Room project.The 63rd edition of the Bangkok Gems and Jewelry Fair will be held on February 20-24, 2019 at Challenger Hall1-3, IMPACT Muang Thong Thani. For more information, please visit www.bkkgems.com. For more information PAGE 20

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ADDITIVE MANUFACTURING SOLUTIONS (PTY) LTD3D Printing Service ADDITIVE MANUFACTURING SOLUTIONS (PTY) LTD JEWEL TRADER / NOVEMBER 2018 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORKŸ SolidScape Castable WaxŸ High Temperature ResinŸ Selective Laser SinteringŸ Full Colour 3D Printing+27 (0)12 030 0193 ● [email protected] ● www.ams3d.co.za PAGE 23

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PAGE 25 JEWEL TRADER / NOVEMBER 2018 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK

愀 搀椀愀洀漀渀搀 椀渀 琀栀攀 爀漀甀最栀㐀㈀ 䄀渀搀爀椀攀猀 猀琀爀攀攀琀  吀攀氀㨀    ⬀㈀㜀  ⠀　⤀㄀㄀ 㐀㐀　 　㘀㠀㄀圀礀渀戀攀爀最Ⰰ 匀愀渀搀琀漀渀䨀漀栀愀渀渀攀猀戀甀爀最  簀 䘀愀砀㨀    ⬀㈀㜀  ⠀　⤀㄀㄀ 㐀㐀　 　㘀㠀㈀ 簀㈀㄀㤀㄀ 圀攀戀㨀   眀眀眀⸀瀀漀猀琀攀砀⸀挀漀⸀稀愀 攀洀愀椀氀㨀 渀攀琀眀漀爀欀䀀瀀漀猀琀攀砀⸀挀漀⸀稀愀 PAGE 26

PAGE 27 JEWEL TRADER / NOVEMBER 2018 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK

FEATURED ARTICLETANZANITE IS ONE OF THE RAREST GEMSTONES ON EARTH.Found only in Tanzania, this African CAD technology has revolutionized the way wegemstone has a beautiful range of create bespoke jewellery. From the seeds of yourcolours , from deep blue to light blue clients’ ideas, we can draft three-dimensionaland lilac, indigo and violet. blueprints and fabricate finished products to your clients’ unique specifications.The attraction of this gem with tourists to ourshores, has given them a real African treasure to All our jewellery is made in South Africa and istake home. If your clients are lucky to celebrate backed with a 100 % service guarantee. Our vasttheir birthday in December then this gemstone will range of styling can also be ordered in a varietymake the perfect birthstone gift. of gemstones in 9ct, 14ct and 18ct. With the innovation of CAD designing together with yearsAt JPPE we have developed one of the biggest of knowledge from our skilled artisans we canranges of tanzanite jewellery. We cater for all tastes offer you craftsmanship on par with internationaland pride ourselves in developing ranges that standards.compete with the international trends. View our online catalogue at www.jppe.co.za or email us at [email protected] For more information contact:KYLE GILSON JOE JANINE T ROYManager Sales Representative Orders Loose Gemstones+27 83 390 3927 +27 83 822 3274 +27 21 424 7764 +27 21 424 7764 PAGE 28

CAPE PRECIOUS METALS JEWEL TRADER / NOVEMBER 2018 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORKcapepreciousmetals.co.za • [email protected] HOW MUCH PRECIOUS METAL ARE YOU FLUSHING DOWN THE DRAIN?DID YOU KNOW?The goop that collects in sink traps, wastewatertreatment systems and ultrasonic jewellerycleaners is an overlooked category of refinablematerial.If you are not collecting sludge, you could bepouring substantial amounts of money down thedrain!ASK YOUR CAPE PRECIOUSMETALS SALES EXECUTIVEABOUT OUR PACKAGED SINKTRAP PRODUCT AND HOW TOGET THE BEST RETURNS FROMYOUR REFINING BATCHESYOU CAN RELY ON CPM TO SUPPORT YOU WITH INTEGRITY ACROSS SOUTHERN AFRICAJewellery Council HEAD OFFICE: JOHANNESBURG: DURBAN: PORT ELIZABETH: Servicing Western Gauteng, Northern KwaZulu-Natal Servicing the of Cape & Namibia Provinces & Botswana & the Free State Eastern Cape +27 (0)21 551 2066 +27 (0)11 334 6263 +27 (0)31 303 5402 +27 (0)41 365 1890 South Africa PAGE 29

FEATURED ARTICLE Reviewing the Federal Trade Commission(FTC) jewellery guides BY CRAIG THOMAS Cell: 082 490 0219 | Tel: 011 465 0208 | Email: [email protected] | Web: www.agemlab.co.za Address: Suite 8, 4th Floor, Block E, The Pivot Office Park, Montecasino, Fourways, JHB, SA, 2055 With the Federal Trade Commission(FTC) having recently made several revisions to its jewellery guides, let us take this opportunity to have a look at the most relevant changes. Wholesale 210 (Aw) xC39O (Lh)OmmUPrRoduRct AliNst.GpdfE O1 F 20Y18/E05L/31L O8W:22 ALM A B O R A T O R Y G R O W N D I A M O N D S C M Y CM MY CYCMY K PAGE 30

The FTC's main objective is to protect the • The FTC gave further leeway to the existing standards JEWEL TRADER / NOVEMBER 2018 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORKinterests of the consumer and prevent anti- regarding the description of laboratory grown diamonds.competitive practices. They do not pass The new guides recommend the following descriptors,legislation but rather set guidelines for Laboratory-created, Laboratory-grown andindustry and enforce existing laws. Relevant (Manufacturer-name)-created. The FTC no longerexamples of these guidelines would be; recommends synthetic as a modifier. The FTC said that manufacturers can use other phrases if those terms• \"Composite\" gemstones may not be marketed under an \"clearly and conspicuously convey that the product is unqualified gemstone name like ruby without qualifying not a mined stone.\" The commission also settled a long- it, eg. lead glass-filled ruby. The description should also running industry debate, ruling in favour of the lab-grown specify that the stone requires special care. sector and allowing the term cultured to be used when describing a created stone. The FTC still recommends• The thresholds for calling an alloy gold or silver have against using the term cultured on its own. The overall been eliminated. From now on gold under 10k may be marketing needs to \"clearly and conspicuously convey called gold if the karat fineness is clearly stated. Alloys that the product is not a mined stone.\" Diamond growers of silver less than 925 can be called silver if immediately had sought to prohibit use of the word synthetic, arguing preceded by a clear and accurate parts per thousand that consumers equate it with simulants such as cubic reading. zirconia. While the FTC has taken synthetic off its suggested list of descriptors, it has declined to prohibit• The rules for describing metal coatings advise against its use outright since the term is commonly used by using terms like silver or platinum unless it specifies that gemmologists and scientists. it is talking about a coating. • Finally the FTC stated that the same rules that apply• The guides now prohibit the use of incorrect varietal to man-made diamonds should apply to man-made names. They have specifically called out yellow emerald coloured stones. and green amethyst.• The FTC now requires disclosure of pearl treatments to both pearls and cultured pearls. RUBY AND GLASS HELIODOR, YELLOW 2.19CT L A B O R AT O RY COMPOSITE OR LEAD BERYL OR GOLDEN GROWN YELLOW DIAMOND CRYSTAL GLASS-FILLED RUBY B E RY Lshould not be labelled as ruby without the should not be marketed as yellow modifier and preferably an explanation emerald as this is a misleading about the special care required. definition.Overall the revised guides are going to protect consumers and the trade. The only concerns are the changes to the definitionof a diamond and the increased wiggle room that they gave the laboratory grown sector with regards describing their product.There are many manufacturers that have written articles since the guides revision and it is scary to read. The one manufacturerwas advocating the use of cultured diamond as an adequate description for his product and drew a parallel to the way culturedpearls are often just referred to as pearls. He claimed that lab grown diamonds were headed in the same direction. Withsynthetic stones finding their way into parcels of melee and larger stones being passed on as natural with no disclosure ofsynthetic origin, this is going to be a challenging time for all in the jewellery trade.GIA 210 (w) x 39 (h) mm.pdf 1 2017/08/21 1:59 PM C M Y CM MY CYCMY K PAGE 31

Our sales team: Gauteng: Clive - 082 411 7160 • Kwa-Zulu Natal: Brian - 082 331 8514 Eastern Cape: Warren - 082 800 4259 • Western Cape: Paul & Antonietta - 021 424 3474 Visit our website to view our exciting range of silver jewellery. www.thetradingco.co.zaThe Pinnacle, Corner Burg & Strand Streets, Cape Town • Telephone: 021 424 2999 • E-mail: [email protected] PAGE 32

JEWEL TRADER / NOVEMBER 2018 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORKNow Available at AA Watch Wholesalers Contact: Tel: (012) 342 8978/9 Email: [email protected] PAGE 33

FESTIVE GREETINGS As the Holiday Season is upon us, we find ourselves reflecting on the past year and on those who have helped us shape our business. We value our relationship with you and look forward to working with you in the year to come. W E WISH YOU A H APPY HOLIDAY SEASON A NDA NEW YEAR FILLED WITH PEACE AND PROSPERITY! CLOSING: 13 DECEMBER 2018 • OPENING: 15 JANUARY 2019 PAGE 34

WE WISH YOUA JOYFUL HOLIDAY SEASON and we sincerely thank you for your dedication throughout this year. Regards, BEST WISHES WA R M E S T FOR A HAPPY GREETINGS HOLIDAY SEASON of the season and best wishes for and goodwill throughout the year. happiness in the new year. Regards, Regards, JEWEL TRADER / NOVEMBER 2018 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK BEST WISHES FOR THIS HOLIDAY SEASON and may every happiness beyours throughout the coming year. Regards, THE REAL JOY OF FROM ALL AT THE HOLIDAY SEASON RICHLINE SA We wish you a blessed, joyful is the opportunity to say thank you Christmas Season and a healthy, prosperous new year. and wish you the very best. Regards, Regards, HAPPY HOLIDAYS from everyone at AA Watch.We hope your holidays will be filled with joy and laughter through the New Year. Regards, WISHING YOU A SEASON OF JOY and looking forward to continued success in 2019. Regards, We wish you a very At the close of anotherHAPPY HOLIDAY SEASON year we gratefully pause to wish you and a peaceful and prosperous A WA R M A N D H A PPY HOLIDAY SEASON New Year. Regards, Regards, PAGE 35

AU Traders & Refiners (Pty) Ltd is a one stop professional service for the precious metals industry We buy second hand or scrap Gold, Silver and Platinum jewellery, cutlery, trophies, medals ect.* AU Traders & Refiners are suppliers of: Carated Alloys such as Gold, Silver, Platinum and Palladium Pre-Alloys for the Jewellery Industry Pure Gold, Silver, Platinum and Palladium to all industries Silver anodes for Plating Industry Plating SolutionsContact Jacqui Tel: 011 334 7607/8 or [email protected] visit our website for more information:www.autraders.co.za *From valid Jewellers Permit and Second-hand Dealers License holders only. We do not buy directly from the public. PAGE 36

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FEATURED ARTICLE Mabé Pearls MABÉ CLASP and Shell CARVED SHELL BY ARTHUR THOMAS Fellow, Gem-A(GtBr) / Graduate gemologist GIA (USA) / Certified Evaluator (SA) Email: [email protected] / Tel: (011) 784 0172 / Cell: (082) 469-6024 Most texts refer to the process involved in creating mabé pearls as being a relatively recent innovation. However the concept of creating a coating of nacre on a foreign body by inserting it between the mantle of a mollusc and its shell is of great antiquity. Directory Strip B 210 x 39mm.pdf 1 2017/08/21 9:09 AM C M Y CM MY CYCMY K PAGE 38

Many centuries have passed since monks The same basic process is used to produce modernin China first began creating nacre mabé pearls but the lead images of Buddha arecoated images of the Buddha. replaced by plastic hemispheres. While Unio mussels are still employed for generating substantial quantitiesThe mollusc involved was usually the big unio or of mabé pearls the mabé created in salt-waterfresh-water mussel. The monks collected the mussels molluscs are generally regarded as more desirableand kept them in bowls while they waited for them to because of their higher lustre. The species mostgape. As soon as a shell opened they inserted a small frequently used for mabé culture are Pteria penguin,wooden wedge to prevent it closing while they worked Pteria sterna and Pinctada maxima. In this respecton it. A sliver of bamboo was then employed to ease the fact that Pteria penguin, or the black-winged pearlthe mantle of the creature away from its shell while they oyster is also known as the Mabé oyster may lead toinserted a small lead image of Buddha into the opening some confusion.they had created. JEWEL TRADER / NOVEMBER 2018 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORKThe mussels were then returned to the river or lake andleft in peace for several years before they were lifted toharvest the nacre coated images.PTERIA PENGUIN MABÉ IN SITU IN PTERIA STERNA PINCTADA MAXIMA Also known as blister pearls, mabé pearls are most frequently hemi-spherical in shape. They are emplaced and grow attached to the inner shell of a mollusc where they build up layers of pearly nacre over a period that may range from one to five years. After harvesting they are cut from the shell, the plastic hemisphere is removed, the resulting hollow is filled with resin and sealed with a disc of mother-of pearl. PINCTADA MARGARITAFERIA Larger pieces and interesting shapes are often created by incorporating some of the mother of pearl shellDirectory Strip 210 x 39.pdf 1 2017/08/21 9:25 AM surrounding the mabé. C M Y CM MY CYCMY K PAGE 39

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THE PREMIERE SHOW JEWEL TRADER / NOVEMBER 2018 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK 2 019 M A R C H 21 2 6 W W W. B A S E LW O R L D . C O Mbsw19_adv_184,6x271,6_en_high_Jewel-Trader.indd 1 PAGE 41 01.11.18 11:32

FEATURED ARTICLEQuestions and Answers (Part 3)COULD YOU GIVE US SOME FINANCIAL 7. The local taxes / vat etc. the importers need to pay onSTATS REGARDING THE IMPLICATIONS OF imports is another disadvantage.LOCA LLY M A N U FAC T U R I NG AS OPPOSED TOI M P O RTAT I ON? 8. The equalisation of the rand to the RMB over the last few years makes it attractive NOT to import, but to increaseLocalisation has got huge advantages over imported export.product. Some examples of the benefits: 9. Your transport costs visiting overseas suppliers, jewellery fairs, etc. is very high.1. Importers need to have cash up front in order to 10. Your product hits the shelves much faster when locally purchase overseas – because of the relationships purchased – it’s speed to market is a huge plus. developed locally by manufacturers with local wholesal- ers, payment terms of 30 to 90 days from invoice are 11. The cost of visiting overseas suppliers is huge. common – thus, your cash-flow is healthier, because you will be able to sell product before you actually pay the 12. Exchange rate fluctuation may also negatively impact the supplier. stability of your operation.2. With a healthier export market FROM SA OUT, since the 13. Imported stock also means longer supply lines, if we use same rules may apply, there will be a faster, healthier shipping (cheapest option) as it can take as long as 6 flow of cash that will also beneficiate the downstream weeks before reaching customs. industry in SA. 14. Air transport is faster, but more expensive.3. Transport costs of bringing in product too regularly also means that Importers need to purchase more product – 15. Then, there are the possible customs delays, so turn- they hence require more capital, creating possible cash around times are slow, with an impact on your cash-flow. flow problems – this may also lead to “dead stock”, with an added headache being that faulty items cannot feasi- 16. As for the quality, or SA hand-made jewellery is of su- bly be returned – thus, local business means that these perb quality – we can make exclusive jewellery exactly to issue can be dealt with faster, with repairs & replacement customer specs. (after-sales service). 17. Purchasing locally also means that we can purchase4. Therefore, we also positively affect our carbon foot-print. less, in accordance with market needs and cash-flow – this is a much more dynamic and faster process. 18. There is also more flexibility, because of the fast turn- around in the product that sells, with faster turnaround.5. Then there are the administration / paperwork head- 19. Also, tourists will prefer buying local goods: “Made in aches of importing. SA / Proudly South African”, especially with the weaker Rand – an added bonus is they can claim back the VAT6. Foreign exchange fluctuations also add to the problem, paid on purchases, on leaving the country. as pricing of product becomes volatile. PAGE 42

HOW WOULD YOU SUGGEST WE CREATE JOBS JEWEL TRADER / NOVEMBER 2018 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORKFOR SKILLED JEWELLERY ARTISANS? 1. Grow the industry as per suggestions above. 2. Ensure training is undertaken to a very high standard – there is a formula to do this, as has been proven by the PAE’s 90% placement rates of graduates. 3. Formalise the successful, proven training MODEL across the sector – successful training is successful training – let’s share our IP with other manufacturers, in order to assure top-notch-quality, standard, consistent, mea- surably-benchmarked and universally accessible training across the board – we then slowly start filling the pipeline with highly-qualified artisans – uniformity is KEY. 4. Once a large pool of manufacturers is training to interna- tionally acceptable standards, everything falls into place. 5. Create and maintain healthy constructive dialogue within the industry – we need cohesion; we need stakeholder alignment – this is KEY. 5a. That space can then be taken up by the mid- dle-sized companies to grow into, for the supply to local wholesalers & retailers. 5b. This will then further open up a space for small manufacturers to grow into. 5c. Consequently, this will then create a vacuum to be filled by a new genre of HDSA / SMMEs to enter into, towards becoming sustainable. 5d. For all of the above to be possible, a relationship between all stakeholders MUST be built and strong ties created. 5e. The industry is then revolutionised through a well thought out strategy of transformation and locali- sation. 6. All stakeholders must align and do their best in trying the utmost to assist in the regeneration of our manufacturing sector, in all industries including jewellery, If this doesn’t happen, the future will remain bleak, in terms of crime, and the very real risk of a revolution of by the youth – they have not received the quality of education and train- ing required, in order to be internationally competitive in the workplace – we must change that. 7. All stakeholders must work together – government (SADPMR, DTI, CoM, DMR, SARS, etc.), manufacturers, training providers, importers, the media and also the JCSA and JMASA, for transformation to effectively take place – otherwise, SA will not be able to benefit as an exporter and will fail to benefit through globalisation & preferential agreements such as AGOA. 8. For the above to take place, serious honest channels of DIALOGUE need to be opened up. 9. The JMASA / JCSA may be in an ideal position to facilitate meetings between the wholesalers & retailers, with the manufacturers – we need to open the channels of communication and create TRUST – we’re all on the same side here. PAGE 43

FEATURED ARTICLE The world’s prime marketplacefor diamonds, gems & pearlsThe 6th edition of the HKTDC Hong Kong Strengths of the two fairsInternational Diamond, Gem & PearlShow (26 February - 2 March 2019) gathers The Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show is a highly specialisedthe finest in the global jewellery industry, trading platform for all kinds of raw materials forshowcasing top quality stones, pearls and raw jewellery. Buyers can source for loose diamonds,materials in Hong Kong. semi-precious stones and pearls in a professional setting as well as the volume and variety on offerThe fair is growing in proportion to demand and its provides buyers with a wide range of choices. The faireffectiveness is heightened by its conjunction with the is well organised into different product zones for easy36th edition of the HKTDC Hong Kong International sourcing. Three highlighting zones are dedicated for theJewellery Show (28 February - 4 March 2019). The two exquisite pieces of diamonds, gems and pearls:fairs will welcome over 4,550 international exhibitorsin 2019. • Hall of Fine Diamonds showcases the premier source of diamonds all kinds of carat sizes, cutsLast year, a record-breaking total of some 87,000 and colours.buyers from 145 countries and regions visited the twoshows, reinforcing the fairs’ reputation as the premier • Treasures of Nature demonstrates an array ofmarketplace for the industry. top quality and precious gemstones from many different origins. • Treasures of Ocean is the world of fine pearls gathers together quality pearls from Tahiti and the South Seas.PAGE 44

The iconic HKTDC Hong Kong International Jewellery 26 F EBRUA RY-2 M A RC H 2019 JEWEL TRADER / NOVEMBER 2018 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORKShow is held concurrently with thematic zones such A SI AWO R L D - E X P O, H ONG KONGas the World of Glamour, Hall of Extraordinary, Antique& Vintage Jewellery Galleria, Hall of Fame, Designer Reserve your FREE photo e-Badge now!Galleria, Hall of Jade Jewellery and Treasures ofCraftsmanship. Fair website: Diamond Show: hkdgp.hktdc.com/ex/108 Whirl of activity Jewellery Show: hkjewelleryshow.hktdc.com/ex/108The HKTDC will organise a series of industry events Mobile Info Site: hktdc.com/wap/hkdgp/T119during the fair for exhibitors and buyers alike. Networkinggatherings, jewellery parades, thematic seminars andinformation sessions are sources of vital market intelligenceand exchange platforms for industry players. Complimentary shuttle bus service allows buyers to commute between the two fairs during 26 February to 2 March. HKTDC offers exclusive incentive for first-time overseas buyers. For enquiries, please contact Johannesburg office via on telephone (27 10) 590 7976 or by email at [email protected] 45

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Specialist supplier of fine quality Tanzanite FoundationTMcertified loose tanzanite and certified Tanzanite BlueTM jewellery. www.tanzanitecompany.co.za [email protected] C +27 82 601 3621 [email protected] C +27 83 231 8919 P.O Box 85084, Emmarentia, 202P9ATG +E 247811 446 5900 F +27 86 614 7433