Jewel Trader June 2019

MINING AND REFINING EDITION JUNE 2019 T H E I N DUST RY'S ON LY SUSTA I NA BLE JOU R NA L

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Featured Gemstone: JEWEL TRADER / JUNE 2019 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK Grape Garnet® Color: Shapes Available: Lore & History: Consistent purple red Ovals, cushions, round brilliants, trillions, Garnets in legend light up the night and and princess cuts. protect their owners from nightmares. This Gem Family: gem was carried by ancient travelers to Grape Garnet® is a unique pyrope- Enhancement: protect against accidents far from home. almandine member of the garnet family. The rich purple of rare Grape Garnet® is the Garnet is the birthstone for January. The exact color of the rough removed from the name Grape Garnet® was derived from its Source: mine. It is not enhanced in any way. intense purple-red color: it will remind you This rare purple-red garnet is mined only in of the ruddy grape glow of a fine merlot the State of Orissa on the Bay of Bengal in Toughness & Hardness: eastern India. Mining of the alluvial deposit Grape Garnet® has a hardness of 7.25 on wine. It was actually named at the breakfast is done by hand using small tools like picks the Mohs scale and it is quite tough. table: Columbia Gem House’s President, and shovels. Eric Braunwart, was pouring his daughter Care & Cleaning: Alixandra’s favorite juice when he noticed Clarity: Garnet is very durable but try to avoid direct a striking color resemblance to the new All Grape Garnets® are free of eye-visible impact to the gemstone. Clean with warm garnet he was trying to name. inclusions. water, detergent, and a soft brush. Grape Garnet® can be put in ultrasonic or steam Size Range: cleaners. 0.3 carat to 3.0 carats. Large sizes are very rare. Special Characteristics: Grape Garnet® has an unusually high refractive index of 1.79 or higher. This gives these gems exceptional brilliance. Only a very small portion of garnet mined in India meets the stringent criteria of rare Grape Garnet® . These gems must be a consistent purple-red color, extremely well cut, and free of eye visible inclusions so the amazing brilliance of the gem can shine through. KYLE GILSON JOE JANINE Manager Sales Representative Orders +27 83 390 3927 +27 83 822 3274 +27 21 424 7764 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] PAGE 3

IN THIS EDITION 6 KINESIS MONETARY SYSTEM EXTENDS AFRICA FOOTPRINT WITH THE SOUTH AFRICAN JEWELLERS NETWORK 16 KINESIS CASTING AND REFINING C ON T I N U E S T O E VO LV E 22 ARABELLA RODEN / JEWELLER MAGAZINE N I TON X R F A NA LYSER S 30 SPECTROMETER TECHNOLOGIES CAPE PRECIOUS METALS CPM 34 S Y N T H E T I C O R S T I M U L A N T 42 CRAIG THOMAS - AGL T H E GA R N ET FA M I LY ( PA RT I ) ARTHUR THOMAS Our sales team: Publisher : Member of : Gauteng: Clive - 082 411 7160 Jewellers’ Network Publications (Also available online) Kwa-Zulu Natal: Brian - 082 331 8514 Eastern Cape: Warren - 082 800 4259 The Jewellers’ Network Definitive Directory Western Cape: Antonietta - 082 574 7975 Southern Africa’s biggest, most comprehensive business category directory in the Jewellery, Watch and Diamond industry. It is an invaluable tool for both national and international professionals within the sector. Visit our website to view our exciting range of silver jewellery. Jewel Trader Jewellers’ Network publishes a quarterly print magazine, Jewel Trader, which is brimming with information, The Pinnacle, Corner Burg & Strand Streets, Cape Town Telephone: 021 424 2999 product launches and in-depth articles about the sector. E-mail: [email protected] Jewel Trader Online Sent out digitally on a monthly basis and available on our website, Jewel Trader Online is a content-rich digital magazine offering businesses yet another way to reach audiences locally and internationally more regularly. Tel: (+27) 10 030 0888 / Fax: (+27) 86 508 5705 Website: www.jewellersnetwork.co.za / Email: [email protected] Postal Address: PO Box 525, Fourways North, 2086 Design : Yuppiestudios Print : Jetline www.yuppiestudios.co.za www.jetline.co.za No editorial matter or information published in Jewellers’ Network Directory may be reproduced in any form without the prior consent of the publisher. The publisher accepts no responsibility, liability or obligation of any statement, photograph or illustration appearing in the advertisements. Every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of information published in this Directory, however, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any omissions or errors, or for any consequences arising there from. PAGE 4

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FEATURED ARTICLE Monetary System extends Africa Footprint with the South African Jewellers Network. The tumultuous backdrop of the volatile financial Kinesis: The Digital Evolution of the Monetary markets has seen commodities such as precious Standard metals steal the limelight recently – particularly gold. The Kinesis Monetary System is an award-winning According the a recent report by the World Gold Council, physical asset-based monetary system utilizing blockchain central bank demand for gold was 651.5t in 2018, an technology, that also incorporates a fee-sharing yield on increase of 74% from 374.8t in 2017, hitting a record- traditionally non-revenue bearing assets; precious metals. breaking half century high of gold purchased by central banks, the largest increase since the US’s decision to end Kinesis has the advantage of experience in the precious the dollar’s peg to bullion in 1971. metals market, as well as having significant technology development already completed. It also comes after 2018 This renewed interest in gold is due to the perfect storm saw gold outperform many global equity markets and of political tensions, trade wars, increasing global debt currencies, attracting renewed interest in the precious and economic downturns, fuelling the need for individuals, metal. institutions and central banks to diversify their investment portfolios. Countries across the world are turning their The Kinesis Monetary System is based on 1:1 backs on the US dollar as a reliable means of reserve, allocated physical gold and silver, powered by the exemplified by the Russian central bank which sold almost Kinesis Blockchain Network and the world-leading all of its US dollars to purchase 274.3t of Gold in 2018. Allocated Bullion Exchange infrastructure. Following its annual report, the Director of Investment Research at the World Gold Council has announced central banks’ appetite for gold is here to stay. These official purchases are expected to provide a stable base for the gold market long-term, but how can the full commercial potential of the booming gold industry be unlocked? The answer is simple – Digital Assets and Blockchain Technology. PAGE 6

KAU (Gold) and KAG (Silver) are the Kinesis Monetary How to use Kinesis Digital Asset Currencies, KAU (Gold) JEWEL TRADER / JUNE 2019 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK System digital asset currencies. and KAG (Silver)? Digital Gold Currency (KAU) Kinesis Mint Description: 1 fine gram physical gold digital token, consisting The Kinesis Mint functions as the wholesale market where the of gold cast bars of minimum fineness of 999, and bearing a currency is created and minted. This occurs in an institutional serial number and identifying stamp of a refiner as per ABX centrally cleared exchange with deep liquidity and connectivity Quality Assurance Framework, table of Approved Refiner List. into global wholesale trading organizations via Allocated Bullion Digital Silver Currency (KAG) Exchange (ABX). The Kinesis Mint is currently available to Kinesis Velocity Token owners (KVT) for the minting of Kinesis Description: 1 oz physical silver digital token, consisting of Digital Asset currencies. silver cast bars of a minimum fineness of 999, and bearing an identifying stamp of a refiner as per ABX Quality Assurance Kinesis Exchange Framework, table of Approved Refiner List. The Kinesis Exchange operates as an exchange where Kinesis Kinesis Monetary System participants hold full title ownership and other digital currencies can be traded. This is being of allocated gold or silver to their KAU (gold) and KAG (silver) developed internally to ensure deep liquidity for the Kinesis digital asset currencies. currencies. Kinesis has developed a multifaceted fee-sharing yield system Kinesis Blockchain Network (KBN) that is specifically designed to attract institutional and retail capital and incentivise use and velocity of the currency suite. KBN is the blockchain technology upon which the Kinesis suite Users are financially rewarded based on their participation of digital currencies are built. Kinesis currencies can be sent, and the overall velocity (rate that money changes hands) of the spent, saved, or traded through the blockchain. Kinesis digital asset currencies. Kinesis Commercial Centre This revolutionary unique yield is derived purely from economic output rather than debt, unlike fiat currency The Kinesis Commercial Centre is another platform to be with fractional reserve banking. The unique yield system released with the Kinesis Monetary System. Merchants, encourages adoption and stimulate use and economic value entrepreneurs and various business owners will be able to to participants. display their products and services on our commercial “super- highway” for further market exposure. When KAU and KAG are transferred between holders the network collects a 0.45% fee that is then accumulated and Kinesis E-Wallet distributed monthly, in varying proportions, to participants in the Kinesis Monetary System as a ‘yield’. The Kinesis E-Wallet allows the participant to have instant access to their digital asset currencies to send, spend, view • Minter Yield: Minters receive a proportional 5% share of balance and much more. the transaction fees on the Kinesis coins they create and then use. Minting is the process of converting fiat currency Kinesis Debit Card or physical bullion holdings into KAU and KAG coins; this is done in the Kinesis Mint Want to treat yourself to your favourite cup of coffee, piece of jewellery or spoil your loved ones, use the Kinesis debit card • Depositors Yield: Kinesis depositors will receive a 5% wherever you go in the world. share of transaction fees on their initial deposit and then use of Kinesis coins. • Holder Yield: Kinesis holders receive a 15% share of the transaction fees generated over the Kinesis Monetary System while holding the currencies, calculated on a daily basis and credited to their e-Wallets monthly. • Recruiter Yield: The recruiter yield rewards people or corporations who refer new users to Kinesis. A Kinesis recruiter will receive a proportional 7.5% yield on active Kinesis Wallets. PAGE 7

FEATURED ARTICLE Kinesis is a full-circle monetary system made up of all Kinesis Monetary System and the South African elements and functions required for a successful and Jewellers Network effective monetary system. Kinesis is proud to be partnered with the South African These differing functions make up different business Jewellers Network to leverage a combined effort towards units within the group. accessibility and education on the operational usage of the Kinesis Monetary System within the jewellery, precious Kinesis Velocity Token (KVT) metal and mining industries. We believe that is important to reward participation within our monetary ecosystem • The Kinesis Velocity Token (KVT), which is not a gold and this will add additional economic benefits and or silver-based currency, gives holders an opportunity competitiveness for the participants of the South African to take a share in 20% of the fees generated from the Jewellers Network. Kinesis supports the growth of new Kinesis gold and silver-based currencies, amongst entrepreneurs and established jewellers and aims to lay a other benefits. foundation for impact towards the market and economic growth within these industries. • 300 000 Tokens, only 210 000 made available to public. The Kinesis Monetary System is expected to be made public in July 2019. • 66,000+ KVTs have been sold. • Available until 30th June 2019 • Public sale at USD1,000/KVT It is not intended to and does not represent an offer of any form of security or investment product. If you are interested in participating further in the growth of the Kinesis system then Kinesis’ legal advisors will be able to provide you with more comprehensive information and terms and conditions as well confirming your ability to participate in the Kinesis Velocity Token sale PAGE 8

DIRECTORY JEWEL TRADER / JUNE 2019 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK 2020 Southern Africa’s Big st, most comprehensi B2B Directory. The Definitive Directory is almost complete for existing clients. Placements are now officially open to the trade. THE TRADE NEEDS TO FIND YOU! DO NOT MISS THIS OPPORTUNITY TO FEATURE IN THE NEXT DEFINITIVE DIRECTORY. BOOK YOUR SPACE: [email protected] +27 10 030 0888 PAGE 9

Terms and Conditions Apply. This offer is valid until 31/12/2019. Visit www.jetline.co.za for a full list of our products and Jetline Stores Email Nico Erlank: [email protected] PAGE 10

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We’re in a league of our own JEWEL TRADER / JUNE 2019 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK All our diamonds are ethically sourced and are conflict free, with the best price gauranteed. WHOLESALE STOCKISTS SPECIALISING IN: • Certified loose diamonds and tanzanite • Perfectly calibrated diamonds - All shapes • Fine diamond and tanzanite jewellery • Fancy coloured diamonds and jewellery • Investment stones Protea Diamonds only trade in 100% natural diamonds and we guarantee all of our diamonds have been tested and are free from synthetics. Our name is your guarantee. PAGE 13

Improving lives of people in our community Rand Refinery has a well-established www.randrefinery.com Gold Zone on its premises on which it hosts the Jewellery village. The Jewellery Village allows Rand Refinery to create a sustainable environment enabling local communities to participate in skills development, jewellery design and manufacturing. PAGE 14

BYL Full page New Inventory B.pdf 1 2019/05/21 6:42 PM JEWEL TRADER / JUNE 2019 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK C M Y CM MY CY CMY K PAGE 15

FEATURED ARTICLE CASTING AND REFINING CONTINUES TO EVOLVE BY ARABELLA RODEN journalist for Jeweller Magazine : www.jewellermagazine.com \"From a casting perspective, even With new technology and an emphasis on cleaner, the best resins are prone to casting greener and more economical practices, ARABELLA issues as the parts get larger, and RODEN discovers the casting and refining industry is most large parts will be wax improving efficiency all the time. printed to ensure a good result.\" When it comes to casting and refining, technology is at the CHRIS BOTHA, forefront. When Jeweller last reviewed the category 2017, the OPER ATIONS M A NAGER AT PALLION breakthroughs were focused on precious metal chemistry and new alloys, as well as the rise of 3D printing and CAD/CAM, induction melt pressure casting and acid-less separation (ALS). Today, the same themes are carrying through, with an added emphasis on faster, more efficient and – notably – more environmentally conscious processes. Chris Botha, operations manager jewellery division at Pallion, which is the parent company of custom jewellery manufacturing business Palloys, points to the use of “environmentally friendly precious metal that is responsibly sourced from guaranteed conflict-free areas”. In terms of technology, he cites Pallion’s use of ALS to refine precious metals, calling it “the most technologically advanced, environmentally-sound, non-toxic refining separation process that exists today”. Chemgold is equally committed to the environment. As well as utilising all available recycling techniques, the company has imported state-of-the-art furnaces from Japan and Germany, which then feed into a non-pollution exhaust system equipped with an advanced after-burner. New technologies surrounding ‘green’ or eco-friendly manufacturing processes is a major focus of local suppliers, with all making major investments in this area. The benefits of these improved processes – as well as steps like preventing packaging waste with biodegradable options, and reducing energy through solar power and more efficient machinery – are not only good for the planet, they also make economic sense. PAGE 16

Cast, present and future There are two major developments in the casting sector. By far Today, most companies will generally use at least two different JEWEL TRADER / JUNE 2019 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK the biggest has been the increasing prominence of 3D printing, types of resin to print and cast from and will take on a number and by extension CAD/CAM. The major driver has been the of others confidently knowing they can achieve good results significant fall in cost, leading manufacturing jewellers to casting them.” embrace them as part of the production process. At Pallion, Botha says the volume of customer-printed material Ben Farago, production manager Rapid Casting, says, “We has “exponentially increased”, but while the cost of the printer have gone from jewellers staring wide-eyed at the mention of itself is low, the labour and technical nature of getting a good 3D printing to it being common to have a low cost 3D printer print remains a learning curve, and manufacturing jewellers still in relatively small workshops,” adding that it’s now a prevalent have a financial incentive to use casting houses. and sustainable part of the jewellery trade. “We have seen jewellers go from seeing 3D printing as almost a threat and “The largest cost centre for 3D printing is still the labour in something they needed to compete with, to being widely running the CAD printer. In that regard, it’s not as simple or as accepted.” time efficient as, say a photocopier. Many clients realise that for a small outlay they can outsource this function to a partner “Previously I predicted the cost of 3D printers would be below with a large printing capacity and keep their overall running $1,000 within ten years – it happened in seven,” says Botha. costs low.” This presents a marked change from previous years and while However, the process is not quite seamless. Burning out resin some anticipated it would have a negative impact on printing can be unpredictable, with Farago noting that Rapid Casting volumes for casting houses, the opposite has proved true. has had to “re-evaluate how the casting process works and The process of jewellery manufacture is now more integrated slowly tweak and modify it”. between jewellers and casting houses. Grant George, operations manager at Morris & Watson Group Darren Sher, director Chemgold, explains: “The majority of in New Zealand, has more than 30 years of experience in jewellers that buy 3D printers use them to create a prototype casting and says one solution his team has put in place is a to show their customer, or send the wax or resin to a reputable rotating burnout furnace. “The latest models of control and casting company such as Chemgold. the concept of the slow rotating air movement and differing positions of the flasks is crucial to managing difficult burnouts, Whilst the prices of 3D printers are becoming less, so are print like resins,” he says, adding that the machinery comes with an fees and most of our customers prefer to leave the casting to attractive green feature, it’s after-burner. us to ensure its at the absolute highest quality, and so they don’t have to worry about other fees such as courier costs. Another upgrade at Morris & Watson has been the Projet Emailing a file takes a few seconds compared to processing, 2500W CAD printer – which he calls the “one technical packaging and sending!” advance that stands heads above any other”, pointing to its “amazing advantages in quality, speed and efficiency”. It’s not just jewellers that have embraced this new technology, with Farago noting, “A few years back, casting companies Speaking of wax, while there’s consensus over the benefits of wouldn’t even accept third party castable resins and if they 3D printers, there’s more debate over the best material to use did, they would take moulds from it, instead of changing their for creating cast prints – wax or resin? processes to try and burn the resin out. PAGE 17

FEATURED ARTICLE The advantage of resin is its ability to produce the best Refining, redefined resolution from CAD for suitable designs, and therefore the best surface finish. However, Sher notes the reason resin may Refining technology has also been made more energy efficient, not always be suitable is it requires the printed parts to be safer and cheaper by using more durable and accessible supported by extra structures printed in the same material. materials and electronics. In this sector, there’s an intersection between ‘green’ initiatives and economic decisions. “In certain cases the amount of extra structures supporting the part could make the cleaning very complex or alter the “Traditional machinery has vastly improved and Palloys geometry of the parts. In these instances, the designs would customers have been the beneficiary of that new machinery be printed in traditional wax,” Sher explains. as part of our commitment to being a technological leader,” says Botha. George sees even more drawbacks to using resin. Although the material has made “sizeable advances in castability” and The company does not use the traditional chemical processes, come down in price, he says it “still can’t match the reliability which involve acid or chlorine to refine gold and silver, but and quality of the right wax printer”. It comes down to the instead relies on vacuum pumps and chambers to separate multiple sprue tags, which George says cause additional gold from other metals. It’s claimed that ALS can achieve 99.5 clean-up time and lemel scrap. per cent pure gold with no chemical emissions, which means it’s safer for employees as well as the environment. Botha agrees that printed wax has the edge as it casts more easily, with no support requirements. However, he points to Chemgold offers a same or next day buy-back solution using the fact that the technology is extrusion-based, so wax prints XRF technology [non destructive x-ray fluorescence] for tend to look rougher, at the same slicing profile, and need to customers that have 2 metal clean scrap. This scrap is than be reduced – meaning it can take much longer for print cycles refined using traditional methods at a later date. XRF works by to complete. bombarding a sample with x-rays and using a spectrometer to determine the elements present based on their reaction. Yet wax, after sanding, beats resin’s divots and pips created by supporting, with Botha saying clients tend to insist on wax Meanwhile, Rapid Casting’s Farago says: “When it comes to for general work, and resin “only for high finish parts”. “From a the environment, we are on par with the industry standard and casting perspective, even the best resins are prone to casting regulations. Anything that gets burnt out of a flask has to be issues as the parts get larger, and most large parts will be wax captured and filtered so you don’t put the environment, the printed to ensure a good result,” he adds. public or your employees at risk.” Farago sees the pros and cons, saying that while resin printers will generally print smoother parts, they will be slightly Morris & Watson, too, holds environmental sustainability is a inaccurate. core value. “Every green initiative we have undertaken over the years has repaid us many times over via reduced production “Resin can be problematic to cast and give inconsistent results costs and higher yield returns,” says George. but is generally quite solid material – easy to handle and work “For example our filter press and water recycle programs have with. Wax, on the other hand will be very accurate which will ensured substantial reduction in water rates and acid removal make it seem like a bit of a rougher print as the digitising of the costs along with a double check on any precious metal print process shows. It will cast consistently each time, but it is content of the spent acid.” very fragile.” Chemgold takes an extra step, ensuring all slurry waste Looking to the future, laser sintering and direct metal printing is filtered so it doesn’t end up in the sewerage system. may well be possible but currently not commercially viable. This waste is then collected and treated by a specialist Sher calls it “fantastic new technology” but cautions that the environmentally friendly company. machines are still too expensive to run and the quality is not at the standards required. Across both the casting and refining industries, reducing packaging waste with biodegradable options is becoming mainstream, as is becoming energy conscious by upgrading to newer, more efficient plants powered by renewables like solar. Botha says there is an “emphasis on environmentally friendly precious metal that is responsibly sourced from guaranteed conflict free areas.” PAGE 18

To ensure its supply chain is as ethical as possible, Botha says JEWEL TRADER / JUNE 2019 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK that Palloys sources from its sister company, ABC Refinery, which is accredited by the London Bullion Market Association (LBMA) and the Shanghai Gold Exchange (SGE). “This has a major benefit that no other precious metals group in Australia can offer,” says Botha. “All Palloys precious metals comply with the strictest of sourcing controls that guarantee our metals are responsibly sourced and conflict free.” Chemgold also has an ethical approach to gold, stating that it sources from its own refinery, Australian mines and reputed dealers locally and in Europe. The company also uses all current recycling methods available on the market. Additionally, the company uses steam dewaxing – removing wax by pouring boiling water into a steam chamber before loading flasks into the furnaces – in order to maintain a low impact on the environment. While the casting and refining may be an environmentally intensive part of creating jewellery, this is an industry that is not only improving in the present, but actively looking to the future to meet the expectations, demands and necessities of tomorrow. ADDITIVE MANUFACTURING SOLUTIONS (PTY) LTD 3D Printing Service ADDITIVE MANUFACTURING SOLUTIONS (PTY) LTD Ÿ SolidScape Castable Wax Ÿ High Temperature Resin Ÿ Selective Laser Sintering Ÿ Full Colour 3D Printing +27 (0)12 030 0193 ● [email protected] ● www.ams3d.co.za PAGE 19

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JEWEL TRADER / JUNE 2019 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK Durban based manufacturing jewellery specialising in Indian and fushion jewellery. Call us for all insurance replacement claims. Contact: Aroon Bhoora Tel: +27 31 301 3963 • Fax: +27 86 528 6516 • Cell: +27 83 777 6657 [email protected] • www.piyuvejewellers.co.za Photos courtesy of Mark Horton Photography: [email protected] / 084-388-2233 PAGE 21

FEATURED ARTICLE NITON XRF ANALYSERS ARTICLE BY Don’t Waste a Precious Minute XL2-100 P ACCU R AT E - I NSTA N T A NA LYSIS OF A LL PR ECIOUS M ETA LS PAGE 22

DXL- 800 AUDIT TECHNOLOGY GOLD PLATING IDENTIFICATION PRECIOUS METALS ANALYSIS, RADIATION SAFETY AND JEWEL TRADER / JUNE 2019 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK ANNUAL CALIBRATION OF YOUR XRF ANALYSERS Following the release of recommended guidelines Annual Calibration of your XRF is necessary for use of XRF Analysers for the analysis of precious metals by the Jewellery Council of South Africa, we Calibration is the process where you confirm that would like to highlight further key points in the analysis your measurements are true by measuring against a process, such as radiation safety and the need for standard. Calibration is usually done on the annual calibration of your XRF. instrument before it gets shipped out the manufacturer’s door. And although portable XRF What is XRF analyzers are usually quite rugged, especially since they are sometimes used in harsh environments, XRF is a non-destructive analytical technique used equipment degrades over time and should be to determine the elemental composition of materials. recalibrated periodically. XRF analyzers determine the chemistry of a sample by measuring the fluorescent x-rays emitted from a Generally, recalibrations should be done annually to sample when it is excited by a primary x-ray source. ensure that measurements are accurate within the Each of the elements present in a sample produces a specification limits that led you to select the instrument set of characteristic fluorescent x-rays (“a fingerprint”) in the first place. However, recalibrations should only that is unique for that specific element. be done by the manufacturer’s qualified technicians. Radiation safety when using XRF Never attempt to open up the instrument as you can damage or compromise the technology. 1. Know where the beam is! 2. Provide training to operators. 3. Never aim at yourself or others. 4. Never hold samples during analysis. 5. Handle and Use with Respect. Exceptionally Fast. Simple and Easy to Use. For more information contact: CPT 021 905 0476 | JHB 011 794 2105 | DBN: 031 266 2454 [email protected] | www.us-tech.co.za PAGE 23

We’re Not Sympathetic Towards Synthetics! ere is de nitely cause for concern in the gemstone industry. Recently, we’ve noticed a marked increase in the number of synthetic and fracture- lled gemstones being brought in for veri cation a er they’ve been sold as natural and untreated. Known as Verneuil, these simple synthetics have been around since the late 19thCentury and were rst accepted as synthetic in 1902. Unfortunately for those of us in the gem trade, the synthesising process has got better and better over the years, making synthetic stones increasingly di cult to identify. e earlier synthetics, which is what we’ve been seeing a lot of in the lab recently, are happily much easier to spot – if you know what to look for. Fracture- lled rubies, for example, o en have more glass lling in them than actual ruby! In the industry, these are known as “composite stones.” e problem is, a synthetic stone has the same chemical composition as a natural one. It also has the same optical and physical characteristics. is is why normal gem testing equipment won’t help you distinguish between natural and synthetic gemstones. You need additional skills and knowledge to successfully separate the gems from the junk! By: Jeremy Rothon FGA Accredited Senior Gemologist (AGA) Our strict policies ensure we supply the industry of goods free from synthetics PAGE 24

Our name is your gaurantee JEWEL TRADER / JUNE 2019 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK PEACE OF MIND IS KNOWING YOU CAN TRUST THE OLDEST DIAMOND AND FINE JEWELLERY WHOLESALERS IN THE BUSINESS WHOLESALE STOCKISTS SPECIALISING IN: • Certi ed loose diamonds and tanzanite • Perfectly calibrated diamonds - All shapes • Fine diamond and tanzanite jewellery • Fancy coloured diamonds and jewellery • Investment stones PAGE 25

AU Traders & Refiners (Pty) Ltd is a one stop professional service for the precious metals industry We buy second hand or scrap Gold, Silver and Platinum jewellery, cutlery, trophies, medals ect.* AU Traders & Refiners are suppliers of: Carated Alloys such as Gold, Silver, Platinum and Palladium Pre-Alloys for the Jewellery Industry Pure Gold, Silver, Platinum and Palladium to all industries Silver anodes for Plating Industry Plating Solutions Contact Jacqui Tel: 011 334 7607/8 or [email protected] Please visit our website for more information: www.autraders.co.za *From valid Jewellers Permit and Second-hand Dealers License holders only. We do not buy directly from the public. PAGE 26

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FEATURED ARTICLE Cape Precious Metals (CPM) Cape Precious Metals is one of South Africa’s largest secondary refiners, specialising in the recycling of all precious metals. UTILISING MODERN TECHNIQUES FOR MAXIMUM RECOVERY AND R E T U R N S , W E R E F I N E A L L J E W E L L E R S ’ WA S T E I NC LU DI NG B E NC H A N D FLOOR SWEEPS, CARPETS, FILINGS, POLISHINGS, OLD JEWELLERY SOLIDS AND (THE LITTLE-KNOWN) SLUDGE. PAGE 30

As a member of the Responsible Jewellery Council, country have received Jewellery Council Certification in JEWEL TRADER / JUNE 2019 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK we evaluate all waste suppliers to ensure all metals either Alloying, Solder-making, Assaying or all of the above. are ethically sourced and suppliers subscribe to honourable business practices. Another facet of our business is the Silver Recovery Department, which converts X-rays and lithographic film Once processed in our refinery, this certified highest-purity into pure silver. Cape Precious Metals actually started metal is made available for distribution to the jewellery life as a silver refining company, but as the demand from manufacturing industry in Southern Africa. CPM has jewellers increased for our top-quality product, we saw the established wonderful relationships with clients throughout need to support them at all stages of the creative process. SA, Namibia and Botswana over the past 25 years. This is testament not only to the purity of our raw metals, but also We’ve now served tens of thousands of jewellers over our range of reliable services and quality finished products. the years, growing with this community and evolving sustainably into the one-stop-shop we are today. We further convert our fine gold, silver, platinum and palladium to alloyed metals, pre-alloys, alloyed PGM bars, With branches in Cape Town, Port Elizabeth, Durban investment bars, solders, plate, wire and tubing. This and Johannesburg, CPM is well established to meet the alloyed metal is also used for casting of finished goods for industry’s demands, and all our facilities undergo regular our clients. improvements. All alloying is expertly undertaken in-house by CPM’s Some of CPM’s Sales Executives are ex-jewellers, and are experienced and well-trained staff, adhering to our strict on hand to offer technical assistance and product advice. quality control systems. We are so proud to note that every Ask us especially about our refining tips to maximize your single member of our Operations Departments around the returns! HEAD OFFICE: JHB: DURBAN: PORT ELIZABETH: (servicing Western Cape (servicing Gauteng, Northern (servicing KwaZulu-Natal, (servicing Eastern Cape) & Namibia) Provinces & Botswana) Free State & Northern Cape) +27 (0)41 365 1890 +27 (0)21 551 2066 +27 (0)11 334 6263 +27 (0)31 303 5402 O R D E R S @ C A P E PR E C I O U SM E TA L S .C O. Z A PAGE 31

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JEWEL TRADER / JUNE 2019 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK NEW TEAM, SAME COMMITMENT. Suite E8, First Floor, The Paragon, 1 Kramer Road, Off Skeen Boulevard, Bedfordview, Johannesburg Tel: +27 11 334 4527 | Fax: (011) 334 2193 | Email: [email protected] www.egl.co.za PAGE 33

FEATURED ARTICLE Synthetic or simulant BY CRAIG THOMAS Cell: 082 490 0219 | Tel: 011 465 0208 | Email: [email protected] | Web: www.agemlab.co.za Address: Suite 8, 4th Floor, Block E, The Pivot Office Park, Montecasino, Fourways, JHB, SA, 2055 LEF T TO R IGH T: SY N T H ETIC MOISSA NI T E, SY N T H ETIC CU BIC ZIRCONIA, NATURAL ZIRCON. The term \"synthetic\" has been very controversial lately The standard definition for synthetic is very similar to that of so let us explore the definition so that we may better artificial, made by chemical synthesis, especially to imitate a understand the meaning behind this word. natural product. In gemmology however the gemstone must meet specific criteria in order for it to be called a synthetic. Firstly let's define the word artificial. Artificial means made or An artificial gemstone that has a natural counterpart with the produced by human beings rather than occurring naturally. same composition, structure, optical and physical properties Artificial is a broad term used to describe both synthetic and may be termed a synthetic. manmade imitation gems. PAGE 34

So in order to be called a synthetic a manmade gemstone Then there are also natural gem materials that have been JEWEL TRADER / JUNE 2019 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK must have a natural counterpart that is identical in every used by man to imitate a diamond (diamond simulants), way, except the manner in which it was formed. for example, white zircon, colourless sapphire and silver topaz. There are also many artificial gems that have been Then what is a simulant? A simulant is defined as a employed as diamond simulants, such as synthetic cubic thing which simulates or resembles something else. In zirconia, synthetic moissanite, strontium titanate, glass and gemmology this is interpreted as a natural or artificial many others. What is interesting to note is that many of the material that is used to imitate the effect, colour and diamond \"simulants\" are also synthetics in that they have appearance of another gem material without possessing natural counterparts with the same chemical composition its chemical composition and physical properties. and physical properties. However these synthetics are being produced to imitate diamonds and that is why they If we look at diamond for an example, natural diamond are referred to as simulants, they should never be called is formed in the earth's mantle. However there are synthetic diamond as they do not possess the same \"synthetic\" diamonds that have the same chemical chemistry and physical properties as a diamond. composition and physical properties as the natural stone but they were formed at the earth's surface with the I hope that this clarifies the difference between a synthetic help of manmade processes. and a simulant for those that were unsure. LEF T TO R IGH T: NAT U R A L SA PPHI R E, SY N T H ETIC SAPPHIRE, GLASS (MANMADE) LEF T TO R IGH T: NAT U R A L GA R N ET & GLASS (M A NM A DE) DOU BLET, GLASS (M A N M A DE), SY N T H ETIC RU BY, NAT U R A L RU BY LEF T TO R IGH T: NAT U R A L EM ER A LD, SY N T H ETIC EM ER A LD, NAT U R A L M TOROLI T E C H A LCEDON Y, GLASS (M A N M A DE) PAGE 35

5-7 OCTOBER 2019 Africa’s Premier Jewellery and Watch Exhibition SANDTON CONVENTION CENTRE, 161 MAUDE STREET, SANDTON, JOHANNESBURG, SOUTH AFRICA +27 11 484 5528 | [email protected] | www.jewellex.co.za | www.facebook.com/myjewellex PAGE 36

PAGE 37 JEWEL TRADER / JUNE 2019 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK

愀 搀椀愀洀漀渀搀 椀渀 琀栀攀 爀漀甀最栀 㐀㈀ 䄀渀搀爀椀攀猀 猀琀爀攀攀琀  吀攀氀㨀    ⬀㈀㜀  ⠀　⤀㄀㄀ 㐀㐀　 　㘀㠀㄀ 簀 圀礀渀戀攀爀最Ⰰ 匀愀渀搀琀漀渀 䨀漀栀愀渀渀攀猀戀甀爀最  簀 䘀愀砀㨀    ⬀㈀㜀  ⠀　⤀㄀㄀ 㐀㐀　 　㘀㠀㈀ ㈀㄀㤀㄀ 圀攀戀㨀   眀眀眀⸀瀀漀猀琀攀砀⸀挀漀⸀稀愀 攀洀愀椀氀㨀 渀攀琀眀漀爀欀䀀瀀漀猀琀攀砀⸀挀漀⸀稀愀 PAGE 38

PAGE 39 JEWEL TRADER / JUNE 2019 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK

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925 925 925 925 925 JEWEL TRADER / JUNE 2019 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK Sterling Silver www.annab.co.za 925 925 VACANCIES: PRECIOUS METALS VALUE CHAIN REFINERS OF: A well established group of companies providing services in - Old jewellery gold, silver and platinum group metals recovery and refining, - Dental alloys associated residues and by products processing, and local and - Scrap gold international sales of value added products has the following - Filings and sweeps key vacancies, SERVICES OFFERED: OPERATIONS DIRECTOR - In-house fire assay services SALES & MARKETING MANAGER - Collection of material LABORATORY MANAGER - Niton XRF analysis METALS TRADER - Buying and selling of gold and silver - Computerised refining plant SUPPLIERS OF: These are senior positions for experienced dynamic winners, - Fine silver possibly chemical engineers or chemists with a practical, - Fine gold results orientated hands on approach - Jewellery alloys - Base metals - Chemicals Please contact: Gauteng Refinery (Pty) Ltd Tel: 011 – 608 1577 CONTACT Email: [email protected] P: +27 21 480 9860 Website: www.gautengrefinery.co.za F: +27 21 426 4140 E: [email protected] JCSA Responsible UNLOCKING OPPORTUNITY IN THE Jewellery PRECIOUS METALS VALUE CHAIN Jewellery Council Council of South Africa PAGE 41

FEATURED ARTICLE The Garnet Family ( PA RT I) BY ARTHUR THOMAS Fellow, Gem-A(GtBr) / Graduate gemologist GIA (USA) / Certified Evaluator (SA) Email: [email protected] / Tel: (011) 784 0172 / Cell: (082) 469-6024 PYROPE ALMANDINE SPESSARTITE (Manganese aluminium silicate) (Magnesium aluminium silicate) (Iron aluminium silicate) R.I. 1.79 – 1.81 S.G. 4.0 – 4.2 H. 7.25 RM. aI.g1a.z7i3ne– 4StSri.Gps. 31.6854.–53m.8m0 xH3. 37..25m5m.pdf 1 20R19.I/. 012.7/914-1.8210S:.4G5. 3A.M95 – 4.25 H. 7.5 C M Y CM MY CY CMY K PAGE 42

The garnets form a complex family of silicates. Magnesium is replaced by iron in the case of All its members consist of a combination of the intensely purple almandine garnet and this divalent and trivalent metallic elements with a is responsible for its higher refractive index and typical silicate base. specific gravity. The golden-yellow to orange, manganese aluminium silicate, spessartite The ruby red Bohemian pyrope so frequently garnet is even heavier and its refractive encountered in Victorian jewellery is a index is above the scale of the conventional magnesium aluminium silicate with a hue that refractometer. is enriched by a generous trace of chromium. RHODOLITE GARNET MANDARIN GARNET JEWEL TRADER / JUNE 2019 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK Rhodolite is a trade name that is applied to The discovery of a rare vivid orange spessartite slightly-purplish rhododendron-red garnets garnet from the Kaokoveld of far north-western that are intermediate in composition between Namibia took the Tucson Show by storm. It was pyrope and almandine. There is generally a christened Mandarin Garnet and the few larger good market for Tanzanian rhodolite of fine stones that were on offer fetched phenomenal colour in the larger sizes. prices. MALIA GARNET ALMANDINE GARNET Malia is a trade name for complex garnets that Purple to violet almandine yields very may embody molecules of a range of varieties attractive facetted stones. It is also frequently spessartite, almandine, pyrope and quite often cut ‘en cabochon’. Fine hornblende needles grossular. They exhibit a colour range from intersecting at 110deg and 70deg are a scarlet to orangy-red. common inclusion in almandine garnet and if they are sufficiently dense a correctly oriented Magazine Strips 184.5 mm x 33.5mm.pdf 2 2019/02/14 10:45 AM cabochon will reveal a four rayed star. C M Y CM MY CY CMY K PAGE 43

theJewelleryHub Design, Print and Casting hub DESIGN • PRINT • CAST GOLD • SILVER • PLATINUM • PALLADIUM All printing is done in Extreme High Definition on the latest Projet Multi- Jet Wax Printer, ensuring crisp and fine feature detail on all your castings. CONTACT DETAILS Tel: 083 326 5746 | Email: [email protected] | Website: www.worldofdiamonds.co.za PAGE 44

Challenged with Gold Licence Renewal? In Association with The Jewellery Hub Skip the Wait and Start Today presents ... THEFINISHING STUDIO Finishing, Setting and Engraving Hub FINISH • SET • ENGRAVE JEWEL TRADER / JUNE 2019 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK * Send Jewellery Hub Castings for Finishing, Get Same Day Finishing * Easy Stone Solutions with onsite * Specialist Stone Setters and Diamond & Gemstone laboratory * Get the latest Laser Technology hallmarking and Personalised Engraving * Three tier Quality Control Certificate issued with each order. Stand out from the rest, or be like them! The choice is yours... How it Works? * Release letter issued to The Jewellery Hub * Send your stones on Appro / Buy from us * Delivery to Finishing Studio * Despatch to your City CONTACT US SMS/Whatsapp 083 486 3294 | email [email protected] Finishing Studio is a registered division of LOUIE DANIELE Diamond Corporation Group (Pty) Ltd | Since 1998 PAGE 45

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SO MUCH MORE THAN A REFINERY Jewellery Council HEAD OFFICE: JOHANNESBURG: DURBAN: PORT ELIZABETH: Servicing Western Gauteng, Northern KwaZulu-Natal Servicing the of Cape & Namibia Provinces & Botswana & the Free State Eastern Cape +27 (0)21 551 2066 +27 (0)11 334 6263 +27 (0)31 303 5402 +27 (0)41 365 1890 South Africa