APRIL/MAY/JUNE 2021                                                 F is for...                                                                            Turn to page 5                                                       T H E I N D ©U SLTI NRKYE'DS BOYN JLEYW SE LULSETR AS ’I NN AE TBWLOER KJ O U R N A L
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Recently, Laura and Siya joined our silver plant                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Owners Sharon and Olga are deeply proud of  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   Western Cape & Namibia                                                 +27 (0) 21 551 2066  EWccEKWGKcEGKEKGcWGaaaaaaaaaaaaZZZZeeeppppssssuuuuNNNNssstttteeeettttttteeee,,,,ppppeeeeeeerrrrNNNNrrrnnnnrrrrnnnnnnneeeeooooggggccccCCCCrrrr,,,,CCCiiiittttNNNNaaaaoooohhhhaaappppoooouuuueeeepppeeeerrrrrrrrsssseeettttmmmmnnnnhhhh&&&CCCCeeeeeeeeNNNttttrrrraaaaaaaannnnppppaaallllssssmmmeeeePPPP....rrrrcccc&&&&iiioooooooobbbvvvvFFFF....iiizzzzaaaiiiirrrrnnnnaaaaeeeecccceeee||||eeeeooooSSSSssssrrrrtttt&&&&aaaaddddtttteeeeeeeeBBBBrrrroooossss@@@@ttttssssccccwwwwaaaaaaaappppnnnneeeeaaaapppprrrreeee+++++++++++++++cccc222222222222222iiii777777777777777oooouuuu(((((((((((((((000000000000000ssss)))))))))))))))mmmm333322211114444eeee111111111111111tttt333333335553333aaaa333300005556666llllssss444411133335555....cccc222666655551111oooo000222288884444....666999966660000zzzz666222200003333aaaa                            © LINKED BY JEWELLERS’ NETWORK
3                                                                                            11                  Publisher:                                                        MOON INVESTMENTS                                                                                  by CPM    Linking the industry                               Manufacturing, Mining and                                                       Refining Edition  (+27) 10 030 0888  www.jewellersnetwork .co.za                          CONTENTS  [email protected]  PO Box 525, Fourways North, 2086    Member of                 Audited by    Jewellers’ Network Publications                                    5            DIAMONDS                19  (Also available online)                                                                                 31                                                       by Metcon                  CULTURED  The Jewellers’ Network Directory Diary                                          PEARLS  Southern Africa’s biggest, most comprehensive        7COLLABOR ATION  business category directory in the Jewellery,                                   by Craig Arthur Thomas  Watch and Diamond industry. It is an invaluable      BETWEEN                    & Arthur Ernest Thomas  tool for both national and international  professionals within the sector.                                                                 27    LINKED by Jewellers’ Network                         Linking the industry                        GAETANO COSTA  Jewellers’ Network publishes a quarterly print                                                   Interview by Nezisa Mfenyana  magazine, LINKED, which is brimming with  information, product launches and in-depth           No editorial matter or information published in LINKED by Jewellers’ Network may be reproduced in any form without the prior consent  articles about the sector.                           of the publisher. The publisher accepts no responsibility, liability or obligation of any statement, photograph or illustration appearing in the                                                       advertisements. Every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of information published in this publication, however, the publisher cannot  LINKED Online                                        accept responsibility for any omissions or errors, or for any consequences arising there from.  Sent out digitally on a monthly basis and available  on our website, LINKED Online is a content-rich  digital magazine offering businesses yet another  way to reach audiences locally and internationally  more regularly.    Design and layout by Yuppiestudios                                                         MANUFACTURING, MINING AND REFINING EDITION
4      IMPORTERS AND MANUFACTURERS     Website: www.ungarbros.co.za            OF FINE JEWELLERY     ROOM 401, 4TH FLOOR , EAST WING          27 RIDGE RD, PARKTOWN             JOHANNESBURG  Email: [email protected]              Tel: 011 642 2018/9                  Contact:           Ronald or Miriam    Simplicity is the Ultimate Sophistication                                                                   © LINKED BY JEWELLERS’ NETWORK
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7                                                  Advetorial                               PROTEA DIAMONS       RICHLINE                                                                                                                   PIYUVE                 COLL ABOR ATION BETWEEN       Linking the industry       Jewellers’ Network is proud                In the last 15 years Hanli Smit,         This service will include collection and     to announce a wonderful                    an accomplished fine art photographer,   delivery of all goods photographed in a     collaboration between ourselves            has carved a professional niche for      professional studio and a high res advert     and Hanli Smit photography.                herself in the field of jewellery        that will be utilised for all Jewellers’                                                photography. Jewellers’ Network has      Network publications, print and digital,     Jewellers’ Network has come to realise     equivalently carved a professional       in conjunction with all social media.     there’s a huge gap in the market for       niche for themselves in the field of     Special packages will be arranged in     proper product photography and eye         trade magazines.                         accordance to your needs.     catching adverts, we are therefore     bringing you this fantastic initiative in  With this endeavour, we are creating     Call Sancia     order to assist and grow your business.    a seamless turn key advertising portal   010 030 0888     We have realised the difficulties and      whereby product photography and your     challenges advertisers have in creating    advertising becomes more effective and   Hanli Smit Photography     their own advert.                          less time consuming.                     083 253 1034         Hanli Smit photography has               By choosing Jewellers’ Network and       to arrange a consultation.       already won numerous awards,             Hanli Smit photography , you can be       her highest accolade was winning         rest assured of world class service and       photo Africa awards photographer         eye catching adverts that not only       of the year 2020.                        generate solid business but also leave                                                a lasting impression.                 MANUFACTURING, MINING AND REFINING EDITION
8    WE’RE NOT JUST MEETING  RESHAPING VALUE, FOR A CENTURY AND BEYOND.  GLOBAL STANDARDS;  WE’RE RESHAPING THEM.   There was a time when value in the industry                          was measured only in purity, and weight, but                          today provenance and ethical background play                          an important part in value. Which is why we are                          always evolving how we source our metal. Our                          commitment to responsible business practices                          and sourcing, allow us to not only preserve our                          business, but our people, product and planet.    www.randrefinery.com                          © LINKED BY JEWELLERS’ NETWORK
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10    Join the Hong Kong and South African Chamber of Commerce    The HKSACCs mission is to expand strategic relationships and bilateral trade  between South Africa and Hong Kong to take advantage of opportunities in the  Guangdong-Hong Kong-Macao Greater Bay Area, using Hong Kong as the platform  to drive this objective    We strive to facilitate a network for entrepreneurs to develop business  relationships though our initiatives, networking events, business matching  meetings and Hong Kong trade fairs and conferences.    Please contact:               Sancia Mincher       Conrad Hendry            0824986352       0833016013               [email protected]       [email protected]    © LINKED BY JEWELLERS’ NETWORK
11                                                                       FE ATURED ARTICLE                                       Featured article    Investments that don’t                      The intelligent way to  cost the Earth                              invest in bullion    Moon Investments sources all metals         Smaller items are much more  used in the manufacture of its bullion      liquid than the large bars, allowing  from CPM, an established refinery that      investors to sell percentages of their  is certified by the Responsible Jewellery   physical bullion.  Council: an organisation that advances  ethical, social and environmental           Moon medallions are attractive  practices. 100% of this purest quality      for their verifiably high precious  precious metal is derived from scrap        metal content and do not carry  products – not a single gram comes          the premium markup that make  directly from the mines. When you           collectable coins an inefficient way  buy a Moon in-house product, you            to invest. Additionally, buyers need  are supporting the preservation of          not worry about diminishing or  our natural resources, landscapes and       subjective value when cashing in,  waterways by keeping raw minerals           as Gold dealers base their buy-back  in the ground.                              price on the melt value of the item                                              rather than prevailing tastes or  Moon’s affordable range of smaller bars     collector opinion.  and medallions makes investing more  accessible to those with limited budgets    Contact Moon Investments  or who want to spread their investment      to discuss the options best  over a selection of items. They also offer  suited to your organisation:  larger 1kg and 500g cast Silver bars.  Moon medallions and bars are all minted     [email protected]  with the 99.9 purity stamp for Silver       www.mooninvest.co.za  or 999.9 purity for Gold and come  with a certificate of authenticity. They  also supply 1oz Silver Krugerrands:  aimed squarely at silver investors  rather than collectors.    MANUFACTURING, MINING AND REFINING EDITION
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13      Manufacturing         Welding     Engraving & Cutting        CAD Design                                                                                             MANUFACTURING, MINING AND REFINING EDITION
14                                                                                               Printing                  BIG ON DETAIL                                                                                               Casting                         RANSOM & RANDOLPH                                                     Finishing                          Investment Powder    Murua Finishing Systems    Shop online or speak to our technicians                  for any enquiries.           www.capetools.co.za    Sales Team    0861 11 51 37                [email protected]  063 105 2045  021 424 8261    Castle Mews, 39© SL I iNrK LE DowB YryJ E WcE/oL L ERR uS ’sNsEeTlWl OSRtKreet, Cape Town
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18           Seamless          Wedding and Stress bands       Available in 9ct, 18ct, 22ct gold, white gold and Argentium 960                      No minimum orders, quick turnaround                                Contact: Aroon Bhoora    Tel: +27 31 301 3963 • Fax: +27 86 528 6516 • Cell: +27 83 777 6657        [email protected] • www.piyuvejewellers.co.za                                     © LINKED BY JEWELLERS’ NETWORK
19                                                                       FE ATURED ARTICLE    Featured article    DIAMONDS    by Craig Arthur Thomas  & Arthur Ernest Thomas    Historically, diamonds were               Diamond was termed “adamas” or                                  OGi Video  known as the Indian Stone, since          “unconquerable” because of its hardness.  India was believed to be the only         A rough octahedral point diamond                                OGI Unit  true source of diamond. When              mounted in the handle of a sword  Portuguese explorers discovered           was believed to transfer this power to      Imaging technology has had a profound  diamonds in Brazil they found             its owner.                                  effect on the assessing of rough and the  that they could not market them                                                       recoveries achieved. A stone is centred  because they did not originate            Rough diamonds received by a diamond        on a cylindrical rod and filmed as the  from India.                               cutting works are checked, weighed, and     rod rotates. Once the video has been                                            entered in the diamond register. They       captured the marker can view the stone  They overcame this by shipping the        must then go to the marking room for        from any angle while the program  stones to Goa, a Portuguese enclave in    analysis and marking.                       outlines potential within the image  India. From Goa they were shipped to                                                  on screen. The marker can rotate the  Amsterdam, the major diamond cutting      Depending on its crystal shape and          combined images and check the fit  centre at that time, where cutting works  nature a stone may be made as a single      from every angle.  now accepted them as originating          stone, sawn or lasered to produce two  from India.                               stones or sectioned by cleaving.                     Diamond rough                            Diamond Marker                      MANUFACTURING, MINING AND REFINING EDITION
20    Diamonds have a grain and this means          POLISHING                                   The Octahedral Plane. The octahedral  that it is only possible to work them in                                                  plane is triangular in shape and it has  specific directions. They can only be          A special heavy cast iron disc termed      a three point grain. It can usually be  sawn in the cube plane and will only           a scaife is employed to grind and          identified in irregular rough by the  cleave parallel to an octahedral face.         polish the facets on a diamond. The        presence of recessed trigons in the                                                 surface of the scaife is scored with       octahedral face.  Makeables. Should the marker determine         coarse silicon carbide grit to create  that a crystal should be cut as a single       the grooves that will help to retain                             Trigons  stone, termed a Makeable, she will mark        the paste of diamond powder and  the position of the table with a dot of        olive oil used to polish the stones.       Trigons are equilateral triangular, growth  Indian ink.                                    A vertical spindle is housed in            features that are reversed in respect of the                                                 bearings above and below the scaife        octahedral face. An important aide to the  Sawables these are either simple or            to ensure that it runs smoothly, free      cross worker when he is orienting a stone  slightly modified octahedra that will be       of any vibration when it reaches an        is that the side of a trigon will always face  sawn in the cube plane. They are usually       operating speed of 2,500rpm. The           a point. Once he has oriented himself  sawn off-centre to produce the largest         craftsman uses a hand tool known as        within the stone he may lightly block out  possible stone and minimise the time and       a tang to position and rotate the dop      the corners to create windows that will let  the material lost in sawing.                   that is used to hold the diamond.          in more light. This will make it easier for                                                                                            him to detect any fine inclusions under  Cleavables. The disadvantage of cleaving    THE CROSS WORKER                              the table.  is that it yields poor shapes and with the  advent of the laser it is not widely used.                 Cross working facets           He will now place the corner, bezel facets                                                                                            and table on the crown, the corner and    BRUTING                                   The polishing process begins with the         bezel facets on the pavilion and a culet                                              cross worker (blocker). He must open          if required.     The cutter or bruter is the workman      windows in the frosted stone so that he     responsible for rounding up the          can examine it closely, visualize how the     rough. He must secure the stone          stone is oriented in relation to its grain     on a metal rod termed a dop then         and detect any inclusions.     key it into the chuck of a lathe. He     uses a second diamond mounted            The Table Plane. The grain involved     on a rod as a lathe tool to shape the    when polishing is complex. In the case     stone rotating on the lathe.             of the table facet the grain is diagonal                                              and it is referred to as having a four point     Once the corners of this second          grain, corner to corner and from the     diamond are sufficiently rounded         left or right.     it will in turn take its place in     the lathe.                                                © LINKED BY JEWELLERS’ NETWORK
21        THE BRILLIANTEER                               DODEC AHEDR AL                           THE DEVELOPMENT                                                     PLANE                                    OF THE MODERN                                                                                              BRILLIANT CUT        Brillianteer facets                                                                                                Mazarin                                                       Dodecahedral growth-lines                                                       The dodecahedral plane has growth-lines  Peruzzi                                                     that run from natural point to natural                                                     point. The dodecahedral grain runs                                                     perpendicular to these growth-lines.                            Brillianteer               MACLES                                                     Old European      In a classic round brilliant the brillianteer      places and polishes a further forty facets     A macle is formed by twinned                           Tolkowsky / American      on the stone. These are the eight star         diamond crystals. Macles generally      facets around the table, sixteen crown         exhibit a triangular tabular form. The                 Modern Ideal Brilliant      halves and sixteen pavilion halves.            twinning is on the octahedral plane      Master craftsman Bazil Watermeyer’s                                                     with one crystal rotated through         innovative design, that he named the                            Trigons                  1800. A herringbone seam running         Barion cut, brought the fire and life of                                                     around the stone and base to base        brilliant cutting to squares, rectangles                                                     trigons are features that are typically  and cushion cuts, shapes that were                                                     found in macles.                         traditionally step cut. But this huge                                                                                              subject must await another article.                                                     It is essential to devote careful study                                                     to a rough macle before undertaking                                                     to block it, both because of its                                                     complex grain structure, and                                                     because of the numerous inclusions                                                     normally associated with this form                                                     of rough.                                                           Co-authored by Arthur Thomas                                                            FGA(GB), GG(USA), CE(RSA)                                                           and Craig Thomas                                                            FGA(GB), GG(USA), B.Comm(RSA).                             MANUFACTURING, MINING AND REFINING EDITION
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23          JET Gold and Carat Balances           Smart Features                 Accurate and Reliable                   For Trusted Jewellery Weighing                         JET jewellery balances deliver the high accuracy you need for weighing gold, precious metals,                       diamonds and gemstones whilst smart features simplify your daily jewellery weighing tasks.                                                                                                                                                                   Request More Info                                                                                                                        Johannesburg: Tel: (011) 553-2300 • Cape Town: Tel: (021) 914-0393                                                                                                                      Durban: Tel: (031) 701-4705/6 • Port Elizabeth: Tel: (041) 365-5168                                                                                                                      e-mail: [email protected] www.microsep.co.za         IT’S ABOUT       THE SPARKLE                                                                                                            Suite 313 – Third Floor, 5 Sturdee Avenue, Johannesburg, South Africa                                                                                                          Office: +27 11 268 6980 • Cell: +27 64 954 1204 / +27 82 707 8676                                                                                                          [email protected] • www.afrasiandiamonds.co.za                                                                                             MANUFACTURING, MINING AND REFINING EDITION
24    010 013 1116             14 Hawley Road,  Adri bruting pots, bruting wheels,  076 372 8877             Bedfordview      maxi cut pots, belts.  [email protected]  Germiston, 2008                                            Dopes (bottom, top, girdle & fancy).  WWW.ADRITOOLSSA.CO.ZA                     Pots (bottom, top & fancy). Claws,                                            Clawholders, Scaives, Parts for tangs,                                            adjustable chair.                                              Oils, coolants, smoothing liquids, salts,                                            glues & cutting cement, Borax                                              Scales, Testers, Lamps, Tweezers,                                            Sorting pads, Parcel papers, Crucibles,                                            Ring Boxes, Refractometer, gold pans,                                            Gold detectors.                                              ...AND SO MUCH MORE!                                                                                                  A well-established jeweller that was in                                                                                                   business for more than 66 years.                                                                                            Business goodwill is attached to the premises.                                                                                                This premise is available to be rented.                                                                                               Some fixtures and fittings are available.                                                                                                There are exciting goldsmiths’ employed.                                                                                       All jewellery related services that can be performed                                                                                           are included: trophies, watchmaker services etc.                                                                                                Contact AH Grobbelaar - 082 455 3636                             © LINKED BY JEWELLERS’ NETWORK
25         theJewelleryHub                                                   Design, Print and Casting hub         DESIGN • PRINT • CAST                           GOLD • SILVER • PLATINUM • PALLADIUM                      All printing is done in Extreme High Definition on the latest Projet Multi-                    Jet Wax Printer, ensuring crisp and fine feature detail on all your castings.                   CONTACT DETAILS Tel: 083 326 5746 | Email: [email protected] | Website: www.worldofdiamonds.co.za                                                                                             MANUFACTURING, MINING AND REFINING EDITION
26    Extensive range                           THEWORLD’S FI  of watch batteries                                                                         ERGIZERR FIRST FROM EN    BRINGING SIMPLICITY TO A COMPLEX WORLD                       RST                                              ANOTHE                   AA WATCH WHOLESALERS CC • Tel: (012) 342 8978/9 | Fax: (012) 430 7002 | Email: [email protected] | 877 Church Street East, Arcadia, 0083, South Africa            PORT ELIZABETH • Warren Davidson Agencies | Name: Warren Davidson | Tel: (041) 373 6981 | Email: [email protected] | 9 Bibury Ave, Linkside, Port Elizabeth, 6001                       CAPE TOWN • Southern Watch Jewellery | Name: Eileen | Tel: (021) 426 1933 | Email: [email protected] | 40-44 Hout Street, Cape Town, 8001  DURBAN • Jay Hanoomaun & Associates CC | Name: Paula Hanoomaun | Tel: (031) 305 4326 | Email: [email protected] | 379 Smith Street, 5th Floor, Doone House, Durban, 4001                                                                              © LINKED BY JEWELLERS’ NETWORK
27                                                                        FE ATURED ARTICLE    We all know that an engagement               GAETANO  ring is presented by a partner to            COSTA  their prospective spouse when  they propose marriage.    We all understand the importance of the  ‘proposal’ however we all know what it  boils down to: the RING. An engagement  ring not only symbolizes a promise; it  symbolizes the beginning of one of lifes  most anticipated journeys: MARRIAGE.    I took some time to speak to Gaetano Costa;  Founder and CEO of GC Manufacturing  Jewellery based in Sandton Johannesburg.  I wanted to better understand his journey  to mastery and success in the Diamond  Industry. I got to know the main man  behind one of South Africa’s most beloved  diamond ring designs.    INTERVIEW    Where were you born?      I was born in Catania Italy on             A visionary and entrepeneur with    Sicily’s east coast.”                      a solid promise    What were you like as a child?               Interview by Nezisa Mfenyana    I was a very curious yet naughty child, on   Did your upbringing influence                  011 3267919  the verge of always getting into trouble or  your choice of work/career?                    Benmore Centre, 28 Lower  expelled from school. My Primary School                                                     Ground Floor, Grayston Dr  teachers were always calling my parents        When I was a child, my parents had the       & Benmore Rd, Sandton  and pleadig with them to come take me          power to dictate what I studied. However,  home. To them I was unteachable, to me,        the more they pushed the more I rebelled.  THEDIAMONDRING.CO.ZA  I was just misunderstood. I questioned         My father was in construction and my  everything and everyone. My belief was         siblings followed suit. I honestly had  that knowledge and all life’s lessons was      no desire to study any futher than high  out there in the “concrete jungle” and not     school and I didn’t. I had ants in my  between the four walls of the classroom.       pants, I could not wait to leave home and                                                 persure my dreams even though I was  As ambitious as I was there was a              not sure what my dreams were at  stubborn side to me that made me every         the time.”  teachers nightmare. Now that I look back,  I feel as though I was being groomed to  face lifes most challenging exerises  and situations.”                                      MANUFACTURING, MINING AND REFINING EDITION
28    So what came next on your                      Tell us more about your                       At the time online shopping was a challenge  journey to self discovery?                     transition to becoming an                     in our industry because people wanted to see                                                 entreprenuer.                                 and feel the product before purchasing it but    My greatest guide was my passion; my                                                       things were changing and so was I.    need to create. I wanted to know how           2003 was indeed a significant year where    things worked. I took odd jobs here            I made crucial moves that guided my fate.   2010’s financial crisis influenced my views    and there in the retail and traveling          As much as I loved my knew found career     on the future of online shopping. To date    around Italy and Europe looking for            I had valid concerns and fears. I faced     both our online (thediamondring.co.za)    opportunities. Nothing was taken for           dangers to my health on a daily basis and   and physical store have sold over 50,000    granted. Fast track to my twenties:            the threats of an explosion or accident     rings locally and around the world. This                                                   occuring in the mine were becaming rife.    has made us on of the most trusted and    In January of 1997 I took a trip to            Dangerous diseases such as yellow fever,    reviewed diamond manufacturer website in    Lesotho, and I was supposed to stay there      malaria and other very serious viruses      South Africa.”    for 21 days. I made friends at the hotel       lurked in the air on a daily basis.    where I was staying and through those                                                      Fascinating career, tell us a bit    connections, I got offered a job at one of     Moving to Johannesburg South Africa         on about your love life. Why you    the diamond mines in the area. It was just     was a decision and opportunity I            never got married?    that random.                                   welcomed with both hands.                                                                                                 I’ve had many long fulfilling    I knew nothing about minning let alone         My transition was smooth due to my            relationships; I have bonded with a few    diamonds, but my curiosity alone was           connections in the diamond mining             women and I remain friends with some. I    enough to get me excited about this new        sector. I was able to source and purchase     am not the easiest person to live with, and    adventure. And so, it all began.               diamonds for resale locally and               my past and present career choices has                                                   internationally.                              influenced my relationships. Perhaps GC    I discovered the heart of everything I                                                       Manufacturing Jewellery would not have    loved and adored: the rough diamond.           I then tried my hand in retail and I did      happened if I had married and settled    Nothing captured my soul like the sight        fairly well.                                  down. The perfectionist and workaholic    and feel of a rough diamond covered in a                                                     in me is forever present. Ironically, I have    black carbon rind.                             I owned several stores in and around          produced thousands of rings for other                                                   Johannesburg and imported a few Italian       couples but I have never proposed to any    Mining diamonds is a hard and time             jewellery brands.                             woman with one of my rings.”    consuming exercise. You cannot imagine    the amount of work it takes to extract         I decided that I wanted to move from        Do you think you have it in you    just over 1 carat worth of diamonds.           retail to manufacturing so I acquired my    to sell the business and retire    The process is straineous, humbling yet        very first manufacturing workshop where     one day?    exciting at the same time.                     I designed and manufactured diamond                                                   pieces for private clients.                   That’s a good question! I have explored    Once the diamonds are sorted and priced,                                                     this scenario a lot, especially during this    they are sold to manufacturers. The            In 2011, I made a decision to focus purely    pandemic; being alone and away from    balance of the world’s rough supply is sold    on the design and manufacturing of            my family has been excruciating. The    to private organizations and individuals,      diamond engagement rings and wedding          worry that something might happen to    and some through private auctions.             bands, thus GC Manufacturing Jewellery        me or someone in my family torments                                                   was born.                                     me. All current restrictions have left me    I was learning so much at lightning speed                                                    yearning for home now more than ever. I    and nine months later I was promoted           My vision was to make engagement rings        have invested a lot of energy and passion    to General Manager of the mine. In             and wedding bands affordable. My aim          in my work, and I believe that one day I    2001 I was contracted to work along side       was to cut out the middle man and make        will retire back where I began; Sicily.”    geologists in Botstwana, Angola and the        this luxury accessible to every couple. I    Democratic Republic of Congo, for the          don’t need to be excessively expensive to    identification and opening of new              survive this industry.    mining sites.”                                                   © LINKED BY JEWELLERS’ NETWORK
29                                                                                             MANUFACTURING, MINING AND REFINING EDITION
30            Now Available at AA Watch Wholesalers                                        Contact:                               Tel: (012) 342 8978/9                          Email: [email protected]                                                                                                                   PAGE 1             YOUR INSURANCE             IS OUR BUSINESS                                                                    ASSOCIATED INSURANCE BROKERS (AIB)                                                                             Contact: Shaun Summers                                                              Address: 33 Scott Street, Waverley, Johannesburg, 2090                                                               E-mail: [email protected] / [email protected]                                                               Phone: +27 (0)11 883-2400 | Fax: +27 (0)11 783-3664                                                                              Website www.aib.za.com    AIB is the trading name of i capital Risk Services (Pty) Ltd Reg. No 2004/022911/07  AIB is a registered Financial Services Provider FSP 19819                                                                                    © LINKED BY JEWELLERS’ NETWORK
31                                                                       FE ATURED ARTICLE                                                Featured article                                                 CULTURED                                               PEARLS                                                   by Craig Arthur Thomas                                                 & Arthur Ernest Thomas    AKOYA                                       The Akoya molluscs are very vulnerable                Akoya pearls  CULTURED PEARLS                             to changes in water temperature. While       Irradiated, belted Akoya pearls                                              variations above 280C or below 80C can  The bivalve molluscs that                   be fatal low temperatures are favourable  produce the majority of pearls              to the quality of the pearls produced  are frequently and inaccurately             since the platelets that are deposited are  referred to as oysters.                     smaller, denser and brighter.    They are actually ‘wing shells’, a genus    Pearl farmers are very conscious of this  that builds an attachment by the hinge      so they time the lifting of the Haamage  and can open and close both shells.         (pearl crop) when the lustre of the pearls  Wing shells occur in a range of sizes from  is at its best. Relatively few Akoya pearls  the small 6cms Pinctada Radiata of the      achieve 8mm in diameter. The operation  Persian Gulf to the huge 30cms Pinctada     to introduce the mother-of-pearl bead  Maxima of the South Seas.                   together with a section of mantle tissue                                              often produces small centres of irritation.  The process of producing a completely  round cultured pearl was first              The animal also coats these with nacre  accomplished in Japan using the wing        thus creating the tiny pearls that the  shell Pinctada Fucata. This is a mollusc    Japanese call Keshi or poppy seed pearls.  that is widely distributed throughout  the Persian Gulf, Red Sea, China, India,  Japan, Korea, Venezuela and the  Western Pacific.    MANUFACTURING, MINING AND REFINING EDITION
32    FRESHWATER PEARLS                            A series of incisions were made in the                                               large mantle lobe of the mussel and small  As much as 3000 years ago the                segments of tissue cut from the outer lip  Chinese were using Cristaria                 of another mussel were inserted.  Plicata, a species of freshwater  mussel, to coat religious objects            The transplanted tissue, that carried       Golden-lip Pinctada Maxima Indonesia  with nacre.                                  the functions of shell building, rapidly  The process they employed involved           grafted into place and began to secrete  using a bamboo spatula to ease the           layers of nacre that eventually formed  animal’s mantle away from its shell          a pearl.  while they inserted small lead images  of Buddha. It took several years for         The shape of the resulting pearl was        Graduated South-Sea Pearls. Pinctada  these religious images to accumulate a       governed to some extent by the form of               Maxima Cook Island  substantial coating of nacre.                the original segment of tissue. Smoothly  During the period from 1911 to 1925          rounded, lustrous and exhibiting a wide  Japanese pearl farmers undertook a series    range of natural hues the Biwa pearls were  of experiments in Lake Biwa employing        very beautiful and rapidly developed a  the same large freshwater mussel             substantial market.  Cristaria Plicata (Unio). The species is of  wide occurrence in the rivers and lakes of   Pearl farmers in China countered,  Japan. They did not use a mother-of pearl    resorting to mass production methods  nucleus to create these Biwa pearls.         so that they could compete on the basis                                               of cost. Their product, bearing a             Lake Biwa freshwater pearls       remarkable resemblance to rice crispys                                               in shape, was bleached then dyed in           Biwa, freshwater button pearls      various artificial colours.                                                 Fortunately production has come a long                  Tahitian South-Sea Pearl,                                               way since those early days and large                     Pinctada Margaritifera                                               attractive freshwater pearls in a wide                                               range of hues are now available at very     SOUTH-SEA PEARLS                                               competitive prices.                                                                                           Marine pearls, usually 10mm or                                                                                           more in diameter, are termed                                                                                           South-Sea Pearls.                                                 China, freshwater ‘rice-crispy’ pearls      Very large wing-shell molluscs, for                                                                                           example, Pinctada Maxima or                                               Co-authored by Arthur Thomas                Pinctada Margaritifera are employed                                                                                           to produce them.                                               FGA(GB), GG(USA), CE(RSA)                                                                                           Pearls are also recovered from members                                               and Craig Thomas                            of the conch family. While conch                                                                                           pearls do not have a nacreous coating                                               FGA(GB), GG(USA), B.Comm(RSA).              they do enjoy a ready market because                                                                                           they frequently exhibit attractive hues                                                                                           especially in a range of pinks.                                                 © LINKED BY JEWELLERS’ NETWORK
33                             Finest gemstones, beads                        & unconventional diamonds                                                       076 162 3741 or 021 422 4677                                                            [email protected]                                            www.ajantaafrika.com                                                                                             MANUFACTURING, MINING AND REFINING EDITION
34    the new    SRG MINTED BARS    MINED, REFINED AND MINTED IN SOUTH AFRICA    SRG MINTED BARS ARE AVAILABLE IN:    10     50    100                                     grams  grams  grams    © LINKED BY JEWELLERS’ NETWORK
35      RICHLINE SA                         A Berkshire Hathaway Company                    Richline navigates                the new normal in Style                                    Style Rich                                                            Welcome                                                             to our                                                            Virtual                                                           Showroom                                                                                                         Office:                                                                                      011-418 1600 Sales/Design                                                                                                 Cathy -Manager                                                                              Bianca and connie - Sales Executives                                                                                             Toni / Nadia - Design                                                                                             MANUFACTURING, MINING AND REFINING EDITION
                                
                                
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