Jewel Trader March 2018

1 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK

1 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018

2 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK

years Need a referral or a supplier? CONTENTS Looking for a certain product? TWIN JEWELLERY SHOWS ATTRACT RECORD OF SOME 87,000 BUYERS JOIN THE WORLD THAT IS page 5b y H K T D C JEWELLERS’ NETWORK UN WOMEN and have all of this and more, page 9b y D E B E E R S at your fingertips! RICHLINE years page 19 of connecting inspiration globally B.Y.L DpaIgAe M23ONDS SUBSCRIBE TODAY PROTEApaDgeIA27MONDS (+27) 10 030 0888 | [email protected] MIKE PNEUMA www.jewellersnetwork.co.za page 31B Y M E T A L C O N C E N T R A T O R S NATURAL FRESHWATER “FISH”PEARL bpaygeG3I5A QUARTZ CRYSTALS bpay geA 3T7G PEARL JEWELLERY page 43b y M A R G E D A W S O N ETHIOPIA: A NEW AFRICAN TREASURE TROVE bpaygeA4G7L Publisher: Member of:3 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018 of connecting inspiration globally JEWELLERS’ NETWORK PUBLICATIONS The Jewellers’ Network Directory The Definitive Directory of information, also available online. Jewel Trader The most widely distributed trade publication, also available on online. Jewel Trader Online Our Digital Magazine, also available online. Tel:(+27) 10 030 0888 / Fax: (+27) 86 508 5705 Website: www.jewellersnetwork.co.za Email: [email protected] Postal Address: PO Box 525, Fourways North, 2086 Design: Yuppiestudios Print: Jetline www.yuppiestudios.co.za www.jetline.co.za No editorial matter or information published in Jewel Trader may be reproduced in any form without the prior consent of the publisher. The publisher accepts no responsibility, liability or obligation of any statement, photograph or illustration appearing in the advertisements. Every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of information published in this publication, however, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any omissions or errors, or for any consequences arising there from.

IMPORTERS AND MANUFACTURERS OF FINE JEWELLERYROOM 401, 4TH FLOOR , EAST WING 27 RIDGE RD, PARKTOWN JOHANNESBURG Simplicity is the Ultimate Sophistication © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK Website: www.ungarbros.co.za 4 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018

FEATURED ARTICLE TWIN JEWELLERY SHOWS ATTRACT RECORD OF SOME 87,000 BUYERS On-site Survey Shows Industry Optimism on Future Prospects 5 MARCH 2018 – FEATURING MORE THAN 4,550 EXHIBITORS, THE FIFTH HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL DIAMOND, GEM AND PEARL SHOW (27 FEBRUARY-3 MARCH) AND THE 35TH HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY SHOW (1-5 MARCH) CONCLUDED WITH PARTICIPATION FROM ABOUT 87,000 BUYERS FROM 145 COUNTRIES AND REGIONS, REPRESENTING A TWO PER CENT INCREASE FROM LAST YEAR.5 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018 Organised by the Hong THE FIFTH HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL DIAMOND, GEM AND PEARL SHOW AND THE 35TH HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY SHOW WELCOMED ABOUT Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC), more 87,000 BUYERS FROM 145 COUNTRIES AND REGIONS than 33,700 buyers visited the Diamond, Gem and “This shows that Hong Kong is an Pearl Show, while about important sourcing platform for 53,000 visitors attended the global jewellery industry. The the Jewellery Show. exhibitors are generally satisfied with the results at the shows. In terms of attendance, buyers from Japan, Myanmar, the Philippines, Vietnam, Cambodia, Iran and Turkey recorded significant growth, reflecting the market potential of these countries. Hong Kong companies should capitalise on the opportunities presented by these markets.” “With improving global economic Survey: Jewellery industry conditions, Hong Kong’s exports cautiously optimistic about of precious jewellery rose 3.6 per prospects cent last year. We are delighted that exhibitor attendance at both The HKTDC commissioned shows was the highest in years, independent on-site surveys at the and that attendance of both local two shows, interviewing nearly 1,300 and overseas buyers set new exhibitors and buyers to gauge their records,” said Benjamin Chau, Deputy views on industry trends and the Executive Director of the HKTDC. demands of exhibitors and buyers.

The survey found that 62 per cent ofrespondents expect overall sales thisyear to remain unchanged, with 33per cent expecting sales to increaseand only five per cent expecting salesto fall, which is lower than the 16 percent recorded last year, suggestinggeneral optimism about futureprospects. In terms of retail prices, 67per cent of respondents expect pricesto remain unchanged, while 31 percent anticipate prices to increase andtwo per cent expect prices to drop.EXPECTED SALES THE ALL-NEW IT SOLUTIONS FOR JEWELLERY ZONE AT THE JEWELLERY SHOWPERFORMANCE IN 2018 SHOWCASED THE LATEST TECHNOLOGY AND SOLUTIONS FOR INVENTORY MANAGEMENT, DESIGN, PRODUCTION AND E-COMMERCE ADVANCEMENT.Increase 33% THE ZONE ALSO FEATURED AN ARRAY OF INTERNET OF THINGS DEVICES FORUnchanged 62% THE JEWELLERY INDUSTRY, INCLUDING AN AUGMENTED REALITY SOLUTION FROM SSIWO TECHNOLOGIES LTD, WHICH LETS CUSTOMERS TRY ON JEWELLERYDecrease 5% PIECES THROUGH A SMARTPHONE APP.EXPECTED SALESPERFORMANCE IN 2018Increase 31% The survey also charted the industry’s Victor Yiu, Director of Zuri Jewellery, views on business operations in a Hong Kong exhibitor, said hisUnchanged 67% 2018. Most respondents expected 10-year-old company focuses on major challenges to come from price original design and on the ChineseDecrease 2% fluctuations of raw materials (45%), mainland market. The company has followed by increases in operating successfully developed its overseasIn terms of product categories, costs (40%), global economic markets by participating in the © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORKmost respondents said they were fluctuations (35%), and exchange Jewellery Show in the past four years.primarily sourcing contemporary rate fluctuations (29%). 6 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018jewellery (83%), followed by jewellery This year, the company’s newfor weddings and special occasions Another note-worthy finding was collection “A Joyous Journey,”(76%), designers’ jewellery (73%) and respondents’ greater optimism about attracted plenty of attention fromprecious jewellery (71%). As for price prospects in emerging markets, large retailers, including a large retailrange, 68 per cent of respondents compared to the previous year. group from the Chinese mainland,expect products that were priced Seventy-five per cent of respondents which decided to launch thebetween US$501-US$1,000 to have the viewed the Chinese mainland market collection in May.greatest potential in the coming year, most favourably among emergingfollowed by products in the US$1,001- markets, followed by the Middle East Buyers from Indonesia, the MiddleUS$5,000 price range (58%) and (75%), Russia (73%), Latin America East, Saudi Arabia and Vietnamthose in the mid-to-low price range (71%) and ASEAN (55%). also expressed keen interest in theof US$101-US$500 (56%). Compared collection.to the findings last year, more As for mature markets, respondentsrespondents favoured higher priced expected the markets of Western Emerging market buyersitems, indicating higher purchasing Europe (68%), Hong Kong (64%) and eager to sourcepower. North America (58%) to have the greatest potential. In its fifth year adopting the “twoKarat rose gold the most popular shows, two venues” format, the HKTDCIn terms of product materials, 45 per Springboard for Hong Kong staged the Jewellery Show at thecent of respondents favoured karat companies to overseas markets HKCEC for finished jewellery, and therose gold, followed by karat white Held at the Hong Kong Convention Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show at thegold (37%) and platinum (37%). As and Exhibition Centre (HKCEC), the AsiaWorld-Expo, where the showfor gemstones, the percentage of Hong Kong International Jewellery focused on jewellery raw materials.respondents who favoured diamond Show featured premium jewelleryreached 61 per cent, which is the from around the world, providing The format offered exhibitors andhighest among gemstones and more an important sales and promotion buyers a highly effective meansthan the 41 per cent recorded last platform for Hong Kong’s jewellery to connect with potential businessyear. This was followed by jade (18%), sector to develop overseas markets. partners.aquamarine (18%) and pearl (15%).

FEATURED ARTICLE (CONTINUED) A gala dinner, sponsored by the Tanzanite Foundation, was held on the first night (1 March) of the Jewellery Show, during which local models and artists showcased exquisite jewellery collections from exhibitors THE HKTDC ORGANISED A SERIES OF EVENTS DURING THE SHOWS, INCLUDING TOP: ROSEMARY SEMINARS ON JEWELLERY TECHNOLOGY, MARKETING STRATEGIES, JEWELLERY LEFT: KATY KUNG, SARAH SONG CRAFTSMANSHIP AND QUALITY MANAGEMENT, BUYER FORUM, JEWELLERY CENTRE: ASHLEY CHU, PARADES AND NETWORKING RECEPTIONS. RIGHT:VERONICA SHIU7 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018 Mete Boybeyi, owner of Turkish The HKTDC also organised an array of About the HKTDC company Boybeyi, said he purchased events to promote industry exchange, US$150,000 worth of diamonds from including a gala dinner sponsored Established in 1966, the Hong three exhibitors from Israel, India by the Tanzanite Foundation, as well Kong Trade Development and the Chinese mainland at the as seminars on jewellery technology, Council (HKTDC) is a statutory Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show, while marketing strategies, jewellery body dedicated to creating sourcing up to US$1 million worth of craftsmanship and quality standard, opportunities for Hong Kong’s high-quality jewellery at the Jewellery buyer forum, jewellery parades and businesses. With more than Show. He said that the “two shows, two networking receptions. 40 offices globally, including 13 venues” format allowed for easier and on the Chinese mainland, the more efficient sourcing of suitable HKTDC promotes Hong Kong as a products. platform for doing business with China, Asia and the world. With 50 years of experience, the HKTDC organises international exhibitions, conferences and business missions to provide companies, particularly SMEs, with business opportunities on the mainland and in international markets, while providing information via trade publications, research reports and digital channels including the media room. For more information, please visit: www.hktdc.com/aboutus

8 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK

FEATURED ARTICLE PARTNERS WITH UNITED NATIONS TO EMPOWER WOMEN IN ITS DIAMOND PRODUCING COUNTRIES, ACROSS ITS BUSINESS AND IN MARKETING CAMPAIGNS. Partnership harnesses commitment of De Beers and UN Women to advance gender equality9 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018 On September 2017, De Beers DE BEERS INVESTS US$3 MILLION TO In Canada, De Beers and UN Women EMPOWER WOMEN IN ITS DIAMOND will work with, among others, the Group announced a three-year PRODUCING COUNTRIES University of Waterloo to provide partnership with UN Women to scholarships and mentoring to young accelerate the advancement of Working alongside UN Women, women and girls from underprivileged women across its organisation, governments and communities in communities who want to pursue in its diamond producing its diamond producing countries of studies in Science, Technology, countries and in its marketing. Botswana, Canada, Namibia and South Engineering and Mathematics (STEM). Africa, De Beers will invest US$3 million De Beers Group announced a to advance the prospects of women These programmes are in the three-year partnership with UN Women and girls by addressing key priority areas. advanced planning stages and are to accelerate the advancement of due to launch in the coming months. women across its organisation, in its In Botswana, Namibia and South diamond producing countries and in its Africa, the programmes will focus on DE BEERS TO TRANSFORM RATE OF marketing. accelerating the growth of women- WOMEN APPOINTED INTO SENIOR owned micro-enterprises to enhance LEADERSHIP POSITIONS As a UN Women partner, De Beers the capacity of women entrepreneurs has committed to achieving parity in to grow their businesses, increase their De Beers will also accelerate the the appointment of women and men income and create sustainable jobs advancement of women across its into senior leadership roles, investing for themselves and their communities. organisation by more than doubling in women micro-entrepreneurs The capacity-building model will be the rate of women appointed into and STEM students in its diamond specifically tailored for each country to senior leadership roles, achieving parity producing countries and ensuring De support women micro-entrepreneurs in the appointment of women and men Beers’ brands are a positive force for with business and life skills to enable into senior leadership by 2020. eliminating gender stereotypes through them to realise their potential and all its marketing campaigns. contribute to the economic growth of their communities.

The commitment to create a step- BRUCE CLEAVER NAMED A UN WOMEN About Un Women © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORKchange in the appointment of senior ‘HE FOR SHE’ THEMATIC CHAMPIONleaders within De Beers is coupled UN Women is the UN entity dedicated to 10 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018with a holistic approach already In recognition of De Beers’ commitment gender equality and the empowermentunderway and focused on attracting to women’s equality, Bruce Cleaver, of women. A global champion forand developing women at earlier CEO, De Beers Group, was named a UN women and girls, UN Women wasstages in their careers wherever De Women ‘HeForShe’ Thematic Champion. established to accelerate progress onBeers operates across the diamond HeForShe is the UN’s global movement meeting their needs worldwide.value chain. A Gender Diversity Steering for the acceleration of gender equality For more information, visitGroup has been established, reporting and Mr Cleaver is one of eight global www.unwomen.org.to the De Beers Group Executive Thematic Champions who haveCommittee, with involvement from committed to implementing policies About \"He for She\"senior women and men across the and actions within their organisation toorganisation to meet this commitment, advance gender equality. Created by UN Women, the Unitedsustain it and build on it through Nations entity for gender equality andtailored action plans in each part of the Commenting on his appointment, the empowerment of women, thebusiness. which was announced by UN Women ‘HeForShe’ solidarity movement for Executive Director, and Under-Secretary gender equality provides a systematicBeginning earlier this year, General, Phumzile Mlambo-Ngcuka approach and targeted platformGroup-wide initiatives have already during the UN General Assembly, Mr where a global audience can engageincluded a review of talent attraction Cleaver said: “Improving the prospects and become change agents for theand development processes, the for women and girls advances an achievement of gender equality inrollout of unconscious bias training, entire society and organisation, as our lifetime. ‘HeForShe’ invites peoplethe establishment of a senior everyone benefits from the increased around the world to stand together asmanagement-led reciprocal mentoring diversity of experience, skills and insight equal partners to craft a shared visionprogramme and the review of policies that greater representation of women of a gender equal world and implementand recruitment guidelines. delivers. We are in the early stages of specific, locally relevant solutions for our journey toward gender parity and the good of all humanity.DE BEERS TO SUPPORT GENDER we know that achieving our goals will For more information, visitEQUALITY IN MARKETING CAMPAIGNS require a dedicated and ongoing focus http://www.HeForShe.org/en that continues well beyond our initialDe Beers’ consumer brands 2020 target. About De Beers GroupForevermark and De Beers DiamondJewellers will leverage the considerable “Diamonds hold a unique place in De Beers Group is a member of thepurchasing power and cultural marking the most precious moments in Anglo American plc group. Establishedinfluence of their diamond marketing the lives of millions of women around in 1888, De Beers Group is the world’scampaigns to serve as a positive force the world. At De Beers we believe it is leading diamond company withfor gender equality. The company will our responsibility and privilege to stand expertise in the exploration, miningwork with UN Women to support its with women, to lead in the pursuit and marketing of diamonds. Togethermarketing teams in shaping creative of equality and to give even deeper with its joint venture partners, De Beerscampaigns that reflect the diverse roles meaning to the diamonds they are Group employs more than 20,000that women occupy in society. proud to wear and pass on to next people across the diamond pipeline generations.” and is the world’s largest diamondBoth Forevermark and De Beers producer by value, with miningDiamond Jewellers have already begun Phumzile Mlambo-Ngcuka, Under- operations in Botswana, Canada,commissioning new campaigns, due Secretary-General and Executive Namibia and South Africa. As part ofto run later this year and next year, Director of UN Women, said: “We are the company’s operating philosophy,that are inspired by equality and the delighted to have De Beers Group on the people of De Beers Group areevolving role of women in society. board as a UN Women partner. With committed to ‘Building Forever’ by global organisations like De Beers making a lasting contribution to joining the United Nations movement to the communities in which they live achieve gender equality, we are able and work, and transforming natural to reach new and greater audiences resources into shared national wealth. to further build global awareness For further information about De Beers and support for advancing women’s Group, visit www.debeersgroup.com. empowerment.”

INTERVIEWS JO MATHOLE & KHOMOTSO RAMODIPA KWAME DIAMONDS11 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018 JO MATHOLE Journey began with an experience that many ways than one. The experience changed my life back in 2008 while has been invaluable, on the other Jo Mathole travelling and venturing through digging hand the Diamond Industry is different fields in the DRC. From that day I knew as in that it is harsh yet gentle. Both KWAME DIAMONDS my path was already paved out for industries are similar as you get to deal me. I knew I had to make a difference with a great deal of money in the form WHAT ATTRACTED YOU TO THE there was no way that diamonds could of diamonds and stocks and shares DIAMOND INDUSTRY? be associated with that, and I took it therefore need to pay attention to detail upon myself that I need to change cause the losses can spell the end of Besides love for the mystery stone, the perceptions around diamonds. So I you, similarly the upside can make you. curiosity of how a piece of carbon can got adopted by this Jewish family that survive such earthly pressure and still officially introduced me to the real WHAT ELEMENT DO YOU FEEL WOMEN manage to evolve and become such industry and I never looked back from LIKE YOURSELF BRING TO THE DIAMOND brilliance and beauty highly value stone then on. INDUSTRY? known to man was my bait to get into the industry, I took interest in diamonds My sister and I went on to enrol for In my view Women bring an element of as I likened it to a determined woman. Diamond valuation course and got direction in the industry. For a very long Coming from an investment background licenced to trade and from then on time men have decided what would be this was by far the investment tool that all the doors flung open. I was then best for us but, Diamonds are a girl’s was underplayed and yet carries such afforded an opportunity to join and best friend yet the girl is just a consumer values that are incomparable to the rest. Indian Company to set up a factory, we in the value chain. So with women Simple equation…for as long as there subsequently achieved a sightholder being hands on in the industry brings a are women on earth Diamonds will be status under my leadership which was feminine dynamic that gives direction as bought. Show me such an investment, a milestone as there has never been a to what needs to be in the market and that has stood the test of time. black female factory manager especially what trends are being set, we are the a Sightholder, in South Africa. That gave market, so we dictate what is appealing TELL US MORE ABOUT YOUR JOURNEY Kwame Diamonds a home to grow and and what is not. We make the brands INTO THE ESTABLISHING YOUR thrive under a secure environment, that what they are, so woman playing a BUSINESS AND GAINING ACCESS TO had expertise, infrastructure and growth meaningful role in the industry is key and THE INDUSTRY? prospects. I knew then that we are going crucial. to be a successful woman led company. WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF AND HOW DO YOU FEEL WORKING IN A MALE YOUR BUSINESS IN 5 YEARS’ TIME? DOMINANT ENVIRONMENT? Being a first black women owned I am no stranger working in a male sightholder the first in the history of dominated industry, coming from a South Africa and possibly in the world for stockbroking background I was very Debeers. We are building Kwame to be much the only lady in the dealing room a global brand specialising in special, and a soon became the woman/man stones ,cuts and colors. managing and had to prove that I could cope with mega factory and the biggest employer the pressures of the markets, come back of women in the industry. We will have home to be a mother, a wife and mange a jewellery brand synonymous with my me time that gives you character in elegance, brilliance and perfection.

KHOMOTSO RAMODIPA we applied for our Dealers license and nothing about, they can see right © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK later Beneficiation license. My sister through you. But I also learned thatKhomotso Ramodipa was afforded an opportunity to start a our male counterpart were equally 12 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018 manufacturing factory which she led to intrigued by the fact that this wasKWAME DIAMONDS becoming a sightholder. a women own company and are making great strides in the industry.WHAT ATTRACTED YOU TO THE This afforded our company an So to a certain extend I would sayDIAMOND INDUSTRY? opportunity to learn from the best and we have earned their respect and to establish the much needed networks. they have forced us to toughen upWith the dawn of democracy, everyone Since we did not have finance of our and roll with the punches. I have anwas going for the mining industry and own to start buying our own parcels, added advantage that I can wear mywe did not want to be left behind, so through our networks we managed to diamonds while I sell them.we went on a quest to own a gold or get a few clients that we could take toplatinum mine. But as fate would have tenders to buy on our license and we WHAT ELEMENT DO YOU FEEL WOMENit, journey led us to diamonds. My sister earned commission from that. LIKE YOURSELF BRING TO THEand I were introduced to an old man DIAMOND INDUSTRY?who had a matchbox with the tiniest We saved up some of that money toshiny stones I’ve ever seen (diamonds). buy our very own parcel. We became As you have rightfully said that this isHe was looking for investors into his clients of the State Diamond Trader a male dominated industry, as onediamond mine. I thought, if this old which was a really exciting milestone of the few women in the industry Iman can do it, so can we. That was the for us because it meant that we were think we have a huge responsibility ofstart of our adventure allocated our own parcel of diamonds. holding the torch for more women to We did not have to compete with big join the industry. Our aim is to makeTELL US MORE ABOUT YOUR JOURNEY companies with deep pockets. This sure that diamonds not only look goodINTO THE ESTABLISHING YOUR allowed us to start manufacturing on a women but also bring positiveBUSINESS AND GAINING ACCESS TO on a small scale. We partnered with impact to lives of the communitiesTHE INDUSTRY? strategic partners in order to gain from which they have been mined access finance and to markets. A or manufactures. Our company’sMy auditor happened to also be in the big eye opener for me was when we slogan is “Brilliance with a purpose”.diamond mining industry. We thought went to Hong Kong through the DTI’s This means, sourcing our diamondsit would be great to partner with him to South African Pavilion for a Diamond responsibly and making sure that welaunch us into this safe guarded and exhibition where I saw that South Africa impact the lives of our employees, andhighly protected industry. This worked has a lot to offer and a lot of work to of our clients positively.out in our favour as it opened a lot of do in marketing our diamonds. A lot ofdoors for us. We soon realized that for companies in the world want access WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF ANDus to make a positive impact, we had to our goods and love our story. This YOUR BUSINESS IN 5 YEARS’ TIME?to have our own company. In 2006 excited us and also challenged us to upmy sister and I registered for a rough our game to meet world standards. We find ourselves in a very interestingevaluating and sorting course. We space and time. If we are able torecognized very early that this is not an Our company was one of five implement our strategy, in five years’industry of chancers. You have to know companies that were choses for a time we will be the first Black women,what you are doing or you would be DeBeers beneficiation project. Through family owned diamond Beneficiatingswallowed whole. In 2008 we founded this project we got to know more Company, to be a Sightholder in Southour company Kwame Diamonds and about running a diamond business Africa and in the World. The thought and also gave us confidence to just gives me goose bumps. There pitch our company to international are so many firsts that we will have buyers. We now have a well-equipped achieved. We aim to be the largest manufacturing factory. We currently employer of women in the diamond have 8 employees and have managed beneficiating space. We want to build to secure two major clients. Kwame Diamonds to be a household name locally and internationally. HOW DO YOU FEEL WORKING IN A MALE DOMINANT ENVIRONMENT? Initially I was intimidated because I knew very little about the industry. I learned quick and gained confidence because I realized that when you are trying to sell something you know

INTERVIEWS THOKO ZWANE THOKO’S DIAMONDS & MUNIRAI DESAI FROM DIAMONDS AFRICA13 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018 THOKO ZWANE State Diamond Trader is one of the WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF AND key entities that played a role into my YOUR BUSINESS IN 5 YEARS? Thoko Zwane interest in the business. Also being Our goal for the next 5 years is to grow selected as one of the 5 companies our client base in local and international THOKO’S DIAMONDS in the De Beers beneficiation project markets by providing a continuous played a vital role in the growth of our supply of high quality stones. And also WHAT ATTRACTED YOU TO THE business through exposure to various to play a significant role in empowering DIAMOND INDUSTRY? platforms like Raizcorp to help transform women and youth participation in the and take the business to the next level. South African diamond industry. Our I fell in love with the industry from being efforts will determine the future of this a polisher of diamonds for 2 decades HOW DO FEEL WORKING IN A MALE company “Only those who will risk going and I learned to appreciate the industry. DOMINATED ENVIRONMENT? too far can possibly find out how far one My main attraction to this industry was can go” TS Eliot. purely the beauty of the diamond and Our society remains driven by our the potential of achieving great success perception of gender roles and MUNIRAH DESAI through this type of business. stereotypes. This informs how we see men who work in traditionally ‘female Munirah Desai TELL US MORE ABOUT YOUR JOURNEY sectors’ (such as nursing) and women INTO THE ESTABLISHING OF YOUR in ‘male dominated roles’. Personally DIAMONDS AFRICA BUSINESS AND GAINING ACCESS TO gender doesn’t limit an individual what WHAT ATTRACTED YOU TO THE THE INDUSTRY? matters is the positive enjoyment DIAMOND INDUSTRY? you feel for your job and career path Fire, scintillating, Bright, Twinkling, The beginning was not the easiest part, outweighs the negative anxiety you Flashing, Exhilarating, Dazzling, Exciting – as this industry has a relatively low feel as a result of being in a gender What else but Diamonds – Reaching for participation of females especially from minority. Though the journey has not the Sky, Falling amongst the Stars, Love historically disadvantaged backgrounds. been easy the challenges of being a at first sight. Soon after I left my former employer I women and a mother are far greater It is this breath–taking beauty that formed part of the VELANI HIVE program than that of a male in this field but it is created a yearning in my heart to own a which was OPPERHEIMERS initiative by staying focused and being a spiritual aimed at boosting start-up companies person that has helped me overcome and soon thereafter my company was challenges and being optimistic. on its own to explore more opportunities. WHAT ELEMENT DO YOU FEEL WOMAN LIKE YOURSELF BRING TO THE INDUSTRY? The industry has been lacking a lot of what women represent in society. Women have a delicate and nurturing instinct which is vital in this line of business. My journey resembles that of a women who thrives in equal opportunity as men and of a spirit of resilience looking from where I come from to where I am today and the Integrity that comes with the quality of work that my company produces.

Diamond – ‘aaahh’, a long time ago, a It is he who sold me my first Diamond of advice. To you it may be small, but © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORKfaraway dream for a 19 year old lover of and further offered me diamonds for to me it’s everything. I am where I amdiamonds. fifty rands, which even at that time was because of all your help and prayers, 14 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018 extremely cheap. He explained to me Thank You.I bought my first diamond from Mr Wolf that he’s helping me start my businessand accidently called him Mr Fox. His and I should not sell cheap. He used HOW DO YOU FEEL WORKING IN A MALEbooming laughter and my nervous the word ‘Mazal ‘on that deal and I asked DOMINANT ENVIRONMENT?giggle created a long beautiful bond him to explain it. He didn’t just teachbetween us. This was the birth of my me how to use a loupe but he gave me Most People make the gender of apassionate journey into the Diamond my first loupe for free, taught me how person an issue, people say working inWorld / The Business world. to calculate on the Rappaport , and a male dominant environment means even scolded me as to ‘how can you you have to fight harder. Personally in‘To be successful, the first thing to do is sell the stones for such a low profit? my opinion, Gender does not matter, iffall in love with your work’. Get opposite to the Harry Oppenheimer you persevere, love what you do, abide School ‘ he said, which I did many years by strict principles of truthfulness andDiamonds and the beautiful people later after his sad passing. I will forever good business ethics, being a womenin the industry, have Helped make be grateful for the kindness Mr Wolf does not affect your business unless youme into a successful, confident showed me. I bought and sold polished allow it to.businesswoman. This flame of passion as a hobby for a long time.once ignited was insatiable. It is the WHAT ELEMENT DO YOU FEEL WOMENthirst for the knowledge of every aspect My thirst to know everything about LIKE YOURSELF BRING TO THE DIAMONDof diamonds that enabled me to Diamonds led me to graduate in INDUSTRY?succeed and beat all the odds stacked Diamonds with The world renownup in a business dominated by wealthy Gemmological Institute of America. My Well firstly I think it brings hope to simplepowerful companies friend Thoko told me to apply as a client people, A dream and a passion is all of the State Diamond Trader. Being you need to reach for the sky , don’t letTELL US MORE ABOUT YOUR JOURNEY the optimistic person that I am, I went anyone ever tell you that you can’t doINTO THE ESTABLISHING YOUR ahead and applied to become a client something, being a women especiallyBUSINESS AND GAINING ACCESS TO of the State Diamond Trader with no from a conservative home in veil mostTHE INDUSTRY? money… panicked when accepted, but people will question your ability to be ‘can’t let an open door close!!!! Once professional, don’t let anyone ever tellMost people regret asking me such again… ‘yes I can’. Of course another you what you can and can’t do…a question because I’m a passionate friend of mine by the name Manastalker when it comes to my business. helped me buy my first lot of stones WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF ANDI can talk for hours and my children YOUR BUSINESS IN 5 YEARS’ TIME?just go “ not again please “ They said if These were my first steps into themummy goes into a coma, start talking diamond industry. Looking back I Optimism is the essence of success,about diamonds and she’ll come out of persevered and in recent years with the so I say, whilst being realistic lets bethe coma to add her inputs. help of State Diamond Trader, Raizcorp optimistic also! Why are you asking and De Beers Sight Holder Sales me about 5 years, in 2 years’ time II am an extremely focused person, there Beneficiation Project I have grown in expect to have my own fully functionalis no ‘you cannot ‘ in my dictionary. As a huge gigantic leaps. polishing factory, I also aim to nownewly married couple my husband and target the retail market which will allowI moved to Johannesburg ‘ the land of Today I am Munirah Desai, Director me to make better profits which inhoney, gold and diamonds’. Diamonds Africa, A Proudly South turn will increase my capital allowing African Company, Client of the State me to purchase bigger parcels ofI had an amount of money received Diamond Trader, AND A DE BEERS stones with the end result being myas dowry. I firmly resolved to buy a SIGHTHOLDER SALES SOUTH AFRICA company Diamonds Africa becomingdiamond. Naïve and gutsy, I opened the BENEFICATION PROJECT MEMBER. more competitive but more importantlyyellow pages and called De Beers head Diamonds Africa will become a majoroffice insisting that I buy my diamond Most Importantly a successful buying power, allowing us to influencefrom them, cutting out the middle man. empowered women through Education decisions in the Diamond Market, FinallyWhy should I –a South African buy a and the beautiful people around me. Diamonds Africa hopes to accomplishdiamond from the stores when I Have the status of being the first De Beer’sDe beers on my door step. I was put And I have so many to thank, firstly the Women sight holder owned Company.through to Urna Mei. I kept calling her Almighty Creator, my husband, familyuntil her words, ’ Munirah I need to get and all my friends that have becomeyou out of my hair.’ She sent me to Mr family. I am forever grateful for everyoneWolf- A Sight holder at that time. who has helped me even by means

15 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018 Munirah Desai | (011) 413-2469 | (074) 567-4545 [email protected] | Krugersdorp, Mogale City, 1750 ESTABLISHED IN 2004, THOKO’S DIAMONDS IS ONE OF THE LEADING, BLACK OWNED DIAMOND CUTTING AND POLISHING COMPANIES IN SOUTH AFRICA. We specialise in: Rough diamonds • Polished diamonds • Round diamonds • Fancy cuts Choice cuts • Diamond Cutting • Diamonds polishing • Diamond Trading TEL: +27 11 334 4571 | EMAIL: [email protected] / [email protected] ADDRESS: Office 102E First floor, S.A Diamond Centre Building, 225 Main Street, Johannesburg www.thokosdiamonds.co.za

16 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK

AU Traders & Refiners (Pty) Ltd is a one stop professional C service for the precious metals industry M Y We buy second hand or scrap Gold, CM Silver and Platinum jewellery, cutlery, MY CY trophies, medals ect.* CMY K AU Traders & Refiners are suppliers of: Carated Alloys such as Gold, Silver, Platinum and Palladium Pre-Alloys for the Jewellery Industry Pure Gold, Silver, Platinum and Palladium to all industries Silver anodes for Plating Industry Plating Solutions17 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018 Contact Jacqui Tel: 011 334 7607/8 or [email protected] Please visit our website for more information: www.autraders.co.za *From valid Jewellers Permit and Second-hand Dealers License holders only. We do not buy directly from the public.

BYL Rewards ad Full A4.pdf 1 2018/02/12 9:12 AM18 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK

19 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018 FEATURED ARTICLE It is with a grateful heart that I think about Richline South Africa’s humble beginnings back in 2012. The business world in SA was excited by Berkshire Hathaway’s Richline Group acquiring it’s first business on the local front. The euphoria of thinking that the golden duck arrived and all will be well quickly dissipated with the reality of the decline in the jewellery industry. The buzz word amongst our management team was and still is to continue to reinvent ourselves as a jewellery manufacturer with creative designs, products and services to remain a sustainable force in the industry. Our basket of fine jewellery products offered to the market expanded on a regular basis, with the addition of bonded products, hollows, industrial products and the world’s lightest ear products produced in 9ct, 10ct, 14ct gold. Recently we acquired a CNC wedding band lathe which now enables us to manufacture large volumes of the most affordable wedding bands (plain, fancy) in the market at consistent quality on a continuous basis. Richline South Africa is looking forward to 2018 and beyond to continue on this exciting journey of growth and showcasing our capabilities to the local and export markets.

20 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK

SM WATCH WHOLESALE (PTY) LTD • Address: No. 9 Bazaar Street, Asiatic Bazaar, Pretoria, South Africa Tel: 012 323 1774 • Fax: 012 325 7097 • E-mail: [email protected] • Website: www.smwatch.co.za21 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018

Our sales team: © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK Gauteng: Clive - 082 411 7160 • Kwa-Zulu Natal: Brian - 082 331 8514 22 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018 Eastern Cape: Warren - 082 800 4259 • Western Cape: Paul & Antonietta - 021 424 3474 Visit our website to view our exciting range of silver jewellery. www.thetradingco.co.za The Pinnacle, Corner Burg & Strand Streets, Cape Town • Telephone: 021 424 2999 • E-mail: [email protected] PRENMEIWSES The Hamlet, West Wing 3rd Floor, Suite 23 B 27 Ridge Rd Parktown contact us: 011 334 4529 [email protected] our collection at our NEW PREMISES

FEATURED ARTICLE B.Y.L Through associates with mines in South DIAMONDS Africa and abroad, B.Y.L Diamonds has OFFERS UNRIVALLED secured access to some of the world’s QUALITY AND CHOICE most impressive loose cut diamonds and Tanzanite, in a galaxy of shapes, sizes, SINCE OPENING ITS DOORS, B.Y.L colours and clarities. DIAMONDS HAS CEMENTED ITS REPUTATION AS ONE OF SOUTH Their diamond collection includes a wide range of loose diamonds, mostly certified by the respected AFRICA’S LEADING DIAMOND AND Gemmological Institute of America (GIA), calibrated JEWELLERY WHOLESALERS. round and fancy shape diamonds, investment stones and the remarkable 85-facet Crisscut®, Crisscut®23 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018 Cushion and 10-sided Meteor Cut®. In addition to being a leading supplier of loose stones, B.Y.L Diamonds is renowned for the quality of their ever-changing jewellery range, with each piece made up using the finest diamonds and Tanzanite carefully chosen for each individual item. Their portfolio offers eye-catching pieces, set in a range of metals including platinum, white gold, yellow gold and rose gold. Their jewellery collection consists of: Designer diamond jewellery, Certified Tanzanite jewellery, Majestic patent diamond jewellery, Platinum diamond jewellery as well as the latest B.Y.L Collection which offers clients uniquely designed diamond jewellery at very competitive prices. When purchasing this collection clients will also receive an elegant stand to display the collection in their store. Fully aware of the crucial role loyal customers play in their business success; B.Y.L Diamonds recently launched an innovative rewards programme for customers as their way of giving back. Once registered with the B.Y.L Rewards program, customers automatically receive a percentage cashback reward on all diamond, Tanzanite and jewellery purchases. “Loyal customers are an essential part of our business’ success, and the B.Y.L Rewards program is our way of giving back and saying thank you,” explains Omri Yedid Levi, CEO of B.Y.L Diamonds. “We believe that exceptional businesses need exceptional partners, and that is why B.Y.L Diamonds strives to constantly innovate and move forward, together with our valued clients. Our main goal is to provide our clients with the best quality products at the most competitive prices. We view our clients as long-term partners and consider their success ours.”

exceptional businesses need exceptional partners24 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK

25 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018 The chain specialists 2nd Floor West Wing, 27 Ridge Road, Parktown, Johannesburg P O Box 2708, Houghton, 2041, South Africa Tel: (011) 645 9280 Fax: (011) 642 2720 Les Kroll: 082 490 0915 Keith Goldman: 082 330 3807 E-mail: [email protected]

TH TM © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK 1968-2018 ANNIVERSARY AUCTION DIAMOND, GEMSTONE & MINERAL SPECIMEN 8 MAY 2018 CONTACT US TO SETUP A PERSONAL VIEWING APPOINTMENT 011 880 3125 | [email protected] w w w. s t e p h a n w e l z a n d c o . c o . z a 26 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018SW2541-SAJN.indd 2 2018/03/19 6:35 AM

FEATURED ARTICLE27 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018 Protea Diamonds was The company’s mission is to be “a trend setting, niche leading diamond broker in established in 1966; as South Africa supplying the international an independent diamond market”. merchant, sourcing stones from the Northern Cape Province The vision is, “To be competitive, price (principally the Wolmaranstad wise, as we market our own jewellery and Kimberley areas). range without any middle man.” This is carried forward throughout the company They purchased rough stones directly by minimizing corporate overheads and from the mines and polished a percentage trading with their alliance partners. in-house before selling both rough and polished diamonds into the local and Protea Diamonds Specialises in the international markets. A Jewellery division following: was established in 1999 to expand the existing business. • Calibrated Polished Smalls from 0.005ct – 0.50ct Protea Diamonds has a network of associated companies located in Israel, • Locally Certified Polished Australia, Belgium and the USA. Protea • Stones in Various Shapes from 0.30ct Diamonds (South Africa) is a primary supplier to these entities (all named Protea and Up Diamonds). • 9ct Gold and Diamond Jewellery • 18ct Gold and Diamond Jewellery Although diamonds are the primary trading • 9ct and 18ct Diamond and Semi- products, other precious gemstones such as the currently fashionable tanzanite are Precious Jewellery also traded. Protea Diamonds services a niche in the local market, as well as We currently have a GREAT Team in our their strategic alliance partners in Israel, Johannesburg Branch as well as our Cape Australia and Antwerp, Belgium. Town Branch and we Believe that going forward, protea Diamonds will excel and expand to much greater heights! We all know the popular name... PROTEA DIAMONDS HAS OVER 50 YEARS’ EXPERIENCE IN THE DIAMOND AND JEWELLERY INDUSTRY. JHB: 011 484 7205 | CPT: 021 424 2002

PRODUCT SHOWCASE28 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK

29 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018 At the very heart of Intercolour lies the perfect gem. It is of the earth - a miracle of dirt and water. This stone has taken thousands of years to form, and will last forever. It is not just a thing of beauty – each gem has its own unique story shrouded in mystery, romance and adventure. From the ground to our collection it would have changed hands several times - finally finding its home with our client. Here it realises its real value – either as an investment or a lasting sentiment. For over 30 years Intercolour has been known as a purveyor of fine gemstones, and that legacy continues. In 2016, Kim Goeller and Nandi Bowker, who curate Intercolour’s collection of gems, remain passionate about the product they source and the raw nature of each stone. The gemstones in Intercolour‘s hand-selected collection are pure and classic, and as they each have their own story, these beautiful pieces truly speak for themselves. Nandi Bowker +27 10 020 2101/2 +27 79 060 7514 [email protected]

The latest addition to the ORION line of micro pulse arc weldersThe Orion mPulse 30 welder SPECIAL INTRODUCTORY OFFER © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK (valid while stocks last) R 36000.00 plus VAT (includes Microscope and arm) R 27000.00 plus VAT (without microscope and arm ) APPLICATIONS • Ring resizing • Filling Porosity • Seam Welding • Clasp Repair • Earring Posts • Eyeglass Repair • Metal SculptingThe Orion 150s The Orion 100c 30 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018The Orion 150s is a powerful addition to the Orion line The Orion 100c is the most compact micro pulse-arcof pulse-arc welding technology. Like all Orion welders, welding system available for the jewelry market. Thisthe Orion 150s features a touch screen interface that model was designed and developed to meet the needsstreamlines and simplifies the welding process – allowing of the market with a smaller footprint to save benchusers to do more and to work more efficiently. Users have space, an easy-to-use touch screen interface for quickmany features available to them including high-frequency access and adjustments of welding parameters, a high-agitation for added penetration and weld strength, weld frequency agitation option for additional penetration, andignition options for precise timing control, fully updateable all at a low initial cost to help with every jeweler’s bottomand upgradeable software options, tack mode (resistance line. The Orion 100c is a user friendly system that allows youwelding) for temporary placement or permanent fusion to become proficient at welding within minutes.welding, and more. The Orion 150s offers a powerfulwelding system in an easy-to-use package. Lipman & Son your jewellery technology partner Address: 65 Wale Street, Cape Town, 8001, South AfricaTel: +27 21 424 3371 • Fax: +27 21 424 6829 • www.lipmanson.co.za

FEATURED ARTICLE Pneuma Academy of Excellence Empowerment Through Training MIKE PNEUMA A JEWELLERS’ STORY, BY METAL CONCENTRATORS MICHAEL PNEUMA31 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018 Michael Pneuma started out bought, but rather to aspire to the allowed him to achieve a life long set quality of Cartier’s Master Goldsmiths. of high quality skills by the time that in 1983, at the mere age of 19 as a Michael was fully qualified in 1987. He he was 37 years of age. trainee manufacturing and repairing was taken with inspiration so much Jewellery for a company. Michael so that he started his own business. In 1999, Mike Pneuma produced a then grew from there and started Michael often worked long 12-16 hour collection which was exhibited in working for other companies as well. shifts from home in order to achieve Osaka, Japan. his dream to be a master goldsmith. This continued for four hard working All pieces manufacture for the years of working for three different In the early years of his business, exhibition sold out within two days of companies specializing in 1) British 2) he focused on mastering complex the exhibition opening. Although the Arabic and 3)Italian. He was trained Jewellery pieces by using his clientele collection was small it granted him to specialize in Italian and Arabic to elevate his skills. He use to choose the confidence and knowledge that classic and traditional Jewellery the most difficult manufacturing his design and manufacturing skills, manufacturing. During the time of process and intricate designs, as well as the metals that he used Michael’s apprenticeship, he had the repeating each piece to achieve the were desirable and this to the high, great privilege of attending the Cartier finest quality he could with each item strict standards of Japan. Meaning Exhibition, this inspired and humble and acquiring more skills. This method that his work quality and skill sets were him to no longer compare his quality was not finically viable, however it that of a high international standard. of Jewellery with those that are store

This boosted his confidence not only in himself © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORKbut also that the best of South African Jewellerycan definitely compete internationally. 32 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018In 2001, Michael had gone through the mostunfortunate experience. He had lost everythinghe worked so hard for, due to unforeseencircumstances. However he views this as an endof a long cycle and the beginning of a promisingnew journey and that it has been.Toward the end of 2001 Michael moved hisbusiness from his home, to an external premisesat the Kyalami Business Park. Thus began thebright new journey, a new phase of Michael’sbusiness which then became known as PneumaJewellers CC from the year 2002.Pneuma Jewellers began offering services to theMining Qualifications Authority for writing and thevalidation of learning pathways i.e. learnerships,skills programs, goldsmith qualification anddiamond setting. This was developed forgraduate development programs and learnshipsoffered at various training providers.This led Pneuma Jewellers to become a partof the Graduate Development Program as atraining provider in 2005. Pneuma Jewellers CC,have trained over 60 goldsmiths to date and willhave completed a mix over100 industry readygoldsmiths and diamond setters by the firstquarter of 2017.Pneuma Jewellers are currently the only companyto conceptualize the Super Artisan. Recentlyin 2016, four fully trained individuals on theSuper Artisan Program. The Super Artisan hascompleted full training in two or more tradesi.e. goldsmiths and diamonds setting. PneumaJewellers is proud to state that 90% of theirtrainees are HDSA’s (Historically DisadvantagedSouth Africans) and that 90% – 95% of completedtrainees obtaining permanent employment in theJewellery manufacturing industry, with a high of42% of graduates “Super-Achieving” as teachers/trainers, managers, employed deaf learners andsustainable SMMEs - with two exceptional blackladies having become the First HDSA Teacher atCuT and the first HDSA Trade test official.Pneuma Jewellers would aspire to leave a legacyof excellence in the Jewellery manufacturingindustry as a feeder of quality Goldsmiths andDiamond setters for the regeneration of massproduction manufacturers and the highest qualitygoldsmiths for custom handmade Jewellery.

Jewellery Wholesale Business For Sale - Established customers in all major cities of South Africa - Established and reliable international suppliers - Visit international trade fairs at least once a year - Easy to manage - Work 3-4 days per week - Can be based anywhere in South Africa - Reliable computer systems to manage inventory and debtors - Reason for selling: Owners retiring Will suit: - Wholesalers wishing to expand - Retailers wishing to diversify - Anyone with knowledge of ne jewellery Genuinely interested parties to contact Jimmy Taylor. 083 283 0096 / [email protected] All enquiries will be treated as condential.33 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018

© COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORKDurban based manufacturing jewellery specialising in Indian and fushion jewellery. 34 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018 Call us for all insurance replacement claims. Contact: Aroon Bhoora Tel: +27 31 301 3963 • Fax: +27 86 528 6516 • Cell: +27 83 777 6657 [email protected] • www.piyuvejewellers.co.za Photos courtesy of Mark Horton Photography: [email protected] / 084-388-2233

FEATURED ARTICLE NATURAL FRESHWATER “Fish”Pearl SALLY CHAN SHIH AND EMIKO YAZAWA The increased availability of freshwater cultured The lustrous orient along the body narrowed to a rounded point, resembling iridescent fish scales pearls in the market has brought their natural on a tail. Natural pearls are often baroque, and counterparts to the attention of collectors and American freshwater pearls in particular are often the trade. found as elongated “wing” pearls (J.L. Sweaney and J.R. Latendresse, “Freshwater pearls of North Most natural freshwater pearls have been obtained America,” Fall 1984 G&G, pp. 125–140). Energy- from European waters and in the United States dispersive X-ray fluorescence (EDXRF) chemical from rivers in the Mississippi Valley. A natural pearl analysis and observation of X-ray fluorescence occurs without human intervention and takes on the showed higher levels of manganese, proving that the characteristic color and surface properties of the pearl formed in a freshwater mussel. No indications mollusk in which it forms. Freshwater pearls, whether of treatment such as dyeing or coating were cultured or natural, are attractive due to a wide detected under magnification or using advanced variety of distinctive shapes, hues, and overtones. The analytical procedures. Real-time microradiography New York lab recently examined a unique fish-shaped and X-ray computed microtomography (µ-CT) brownish orange pearl measuring 21.34 × 6.28 × 2.81 analysis revealed clear natural growth structures that mm and weighing 2.12 ct (figure 1). conformed to the pearl’s shape. 3D rendering of the µ-CT data (figure 2) showed a remarkable likeness to a small fish swimming.35 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018 FIGURE 1. A 2.12 CT NATURAL FRESHWATER FIGURE 2. 3D SOFTWARE RENDERING OF X-RAY µ-CT DATA PEARL WITH THE FORM OF A FISH. REVEALED THE PEARL’S UNCANNY LIKENESS TO A FISH The entire nacreous surface was composed of Although this is not the first pearl GIA has examined overlapping platelets. We observed no indications of that bears a resemblance to a living creature (see work, such as polishing, that is sometimes performed Fall 2015 Lab Notes, pp. 319–320), it is nonetheless an to improve a pearl’s appearance. One end was extraordinary and rare formation that mirrors the form wider and more rounded, which bore an uncanny of a fish in surprising detail. likeness to a fish’s head, with an “eye” and “mouth” also discernible.

Purveyors of Top QualitySouth Sea, Tahitian, Cultured and Fresh Water Pearls Also: Gold, Silver Findings and Semi-Precious Beads PLEASE CONTACT MAGDA KIDSON 0829090088 TELEPHONE: + 27 11 789 8220 FACSIMILE: + 27 11 789 9866 E-MAIL: [email protected] 925 925 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK 925 925 36 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018Importers and Distributors of 925Sterling Silver, Stainless Steel, 925Fashion Jewellery and Scarves Shop Online www.annab.co.za

FEATURED ARTICLE QUARTZ CRYSTALS ARTHUR THOMAS FELLOW, GEM-A(GTBR) / GRADUATE GEMOLOGIST GIA (USA) / CERTIFIED EVALUATOR (SA) EMAIL: [email protected] / TEL: (011) 784 0172 / CELL: (082) 469-6024 In Europe mineralogists and gemmologists37 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018 TOP:MORION GWINDLE (FIG 1) LEFT:A CLUSTER OF ELONGATED recognise seven crystal systems. However in America they have reduced this to six by QUARTZ CRYSTALS (FIG 2) combining trigonal minerals with those that conform to the hexagonal system. Therefore such commonly encountered trigonal quartz gems as amethyst, citrine, rock-crystal, etc are classed as being hexagonal in the USA. In addition to a virtually endless range of hues, quartz crystals occur in a wide variety of habits that range from simple single crystals to the tight horizontally stacked form known as a gwindle. Fig 2 illustrates a cluster of elongated quartz crystals from D.R. Congo. The sceptre form crystal, fig 3 exhibits a fascinating range of hematite, goethite, ilmenite, pyrite etc as mineral inclusions. Wholesale 210 (w) x 39 (h) mm Product list.pdf 1 2018/03/01 1:56 PM C M Y CM MY CYCMY K

AMETHYST JAPANESE TWIN (FIG 4) ROCK CRYSTAL (FIG 5)SCEPTRE (FIG 3) CACTUS AMETHYST (FIG 6)When two quartz crystals butt onto one another © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORKat right angles they form what is known as aJapanese twin. Twin crystals of this type are veryrare and desirable collectors’ items (fig 4).Typically the parent crystal in this specimen isalmost completely enclosed by the numerousdaughter crystals (fig 6).Rose quartz (fig 7) is a common mineral in itsmassive form. However crystals of rose quartz arevery rare. The limited number of specimens thatcome on the market generally originate from onetwo mines in Minas Gerais, Brazil.The amethyst geode specimen (fig 8) originatedfrom the bed of the Gwaai River near Tjolotjo,Zimbabwe. GIA 210 (w) x 39 (hA)MmmE.pTdHf Y S1T G20E17O/0D8/E21( F1I G:598P)M ROSE QUARTZ XLS RARE (FIG 7) 38 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018 C M Y CM MY CYCMY K

At Ramsden Diamonds we stock a variety of certified goods, fancy cuts and colours as well as carefully hand-calibrated smalls, all at competitive prices. Our team prides itself on great customer service and we deliver country-wide.39 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018 No order is too small! 011 484 0576/8 [email protected] 4th Floor,West Wing [email protected] 27 Ridge Road, Parktown Richard Ramsden: 072 842 4114

doron diamonds The most imp tant part of doingbusiness, is who you're doing it wi .... LARGE STONE SPECIALISTS. LOOSE DIAMONDS AND GEMSTONES. NEW EXCLUSIVE FINE JEWELLERY RANGE. HAND CALIBRATED SMALLS. NO CALL TOO TOUGH. FASTEST SERVICE GUARANTEED! © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORKJohannesburg Office Cape Town Office 40 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018 F2007, 2nd Floor 103, 1st Floor 3 Sturdee Ave 47 on Strand Rosebank Cape Town +27 11 334 7228 +27 21 300 3954 Ben Tomer +27 82 831 5600 +27 83 399 [email protected] [email protected] Josh Janette +27 82 597 5927 +27 61 662 [email protected] [email protected]

41 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018 Daniel Cell: 073 150 1935 | Sainesh Cell: 076 997 3442 [email protected] | [email protected] www.dwbullionrefinery.co.za The Paragon, 1 Kramer Road, Bedfordview, JHB WE MAKE YOU MORE MONEY! Training: DW Bullion started in the retail sector before becoming a refinery, acquiring a huge understanding of the needs and challenges of buying gold from the public. Most of the loses happen at the point of sale when buying gold, with a misunderstanding of the weight, carat or even buying non gold items. We have learnt how to combat this issue and offer our knowledge to our customers. Please email or call to find out more. Competitive Rates: DW Bullion is up at the top end of the country in regards to rates, combined with our testing training system we believe we make more profit for our customers using DW Bullion refinery. Personalised Customer Service: We offer a start to finish service. With a dedicated sales representative, there is always someone to call on or who can visit to help you through gold testing issues, results and payment enquires. Security: It has become increasingly dangerous to transport gold or money in South Africa, DW Bullion refinery has developed a system of how to move gold successfully around the country, eliminating the need for time and risk of moving your metal yourself. DW Bullion refinery is located in an extremely secure location in Bedfordview JHB.

Henry Gold Guaranteed Best Prices Best Quality Best Variety of Goods Best Payment Terms © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK 1st Floor Market Hse HG We offer one of the largest 42 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018 Crn. St.Georges Mall& selections of imported Shortmarket Str, Cape Town. 9ct Gold & 925 Silver Tel.: 021 4240923/24 Jewellery Fax: 021 4240926 TERMS AVAILABLEe-mail:[email protected]

FEATURED ARTICLE PEARL JEWELMER GOLD PEARLS JEWELLERY “Pearls of Creation A-Z of Pearls” 2nd Edition BY MARGE DAWSON - BRONZE AWARD and THE AUTHOR SHOW AWARD Find my ARTICLES about ‘Pearls’ and ‘Pearl Farms’ on my website: www.pearlsofcreation.com Book & E-Book available for Purchase at Powell’s Books - Amazon Kindle - B&N Nook Email: [email protected] PEARL JEWELRY IS AN INTERESTING AND ENDLESS SUBJECT AS VARIETY IS THE SPICE OF LIFE. PEARLS HAVE BEEN FASHIONABLE FOR GENERATIONS AND NEVER LOSE THEIR ATTRACTION AND BEAUTY.43 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018 Strings of pearls come in That is obvious on a String of pearls, JEWELMER GOLD PEARLS if they slide off each other when TAHITI BLACK PEARLS different lengths from a single to rubbed together they are NOT REAL. multiple strands, different lengths That was an easy test. have names for the different styles. Some women say they feel If they don’t feel gritty one or the undressed without their pearls on. other is not real. But when buying You never see the pictures of Her rings or a piece of Antique Jewelry Majesty the Queen, without her with a single or even more pearls on pearls, she loves them, they are it, you will need to have another real always flattering. pearl to do that test. Dress code of the top Military When at a house Sale including functions is pearls. Airline hostesses Jewelry, I had my Akoya pearl ring are now not allowed to wear on, so I was able to do my test and dangling earrings, now pearl studs identify 3 REAL pearl rings, and a pair are their dress too. of dangling pearl earrings for my friend! My research started with a passion for pearls over 30years ago. Never Just because I know that easy test, knowing I would write a 330page which nobody else knew. I bought book, ‘PEARLS OF CREATION A-Z OF bargains as they were all mixed up PEARLS’ 2nd Edition with 2 AWARDS. with fake Jewelry at the same price! When testing a string of pearls my I have done it so many times and way of knowing if pearls are “REAL” is taught all my audiences, who also simple. Take any two pearls and rub know how to do that simple test, too! them together, if they feel gritty they are both real!

MICRONESIA PEARLS AND SHELL JEWELRYIt is important for me to caution you Jewelry designers use their skills, People casually eating the particular © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORKto NOT keep any pearls in a SAFE! combining beautiful gemstones seafood of their choice, have beenPearls are living organisms and with pearls, if you study Crowns, surprised at finding a natural pearlneed to breathe. Honestly I have they all blend in together, in different in their dinner. Currently that stillseen 3 single pearls which had been patterns. happens.left in a Safe, by a Granny (‘till mygrandchildren are old enough to Years ago the natural pearls were Shells of oysters and mussels aretreasure them’), sadly they had gone used as money and the traders used used to make attractive Jewelry too.mouldy, that was when I was working to prefer carrying pearls as they were characteristic color and surfacewith ‘Pearls in the Oyster’, which I considered valuable and easy to properties of the mollusk in which itreally enjoyed and learned so much. carry to foreign lands. forms. Freshwater pearls, whether cultured or natural, are attractiveVery few people know that you can Beautiful Natural pearls are found due to a wide variety of distinctiveand should wash your pearl Jewelry. mainly in Oysters, Mussels, Clams, shapes, hues, and overtones. TheEspecially in our hot Summers. Pearl Abalone and Conch, in freshwater New York lab recently examined astud earrings come to no harm in and seawater varieties. Natural unique fish-shaped brownish orangethe shower. Never wear your pearls, pearls are formed from a foreign pearl measuring 21.34 × 6.28 × 2.81while using colour dye for washing object being ingested and lodged in mm and weighing 2.12 ct.your hair! the flesh or on the inner shell. Cultured sea pearls are a completely The variety of pearls available on theBut be warned that real pearls are different category as Farmers can Market is amazing. Some are diedknotted on silk thread, which will cultivate perfect spherical pearls and and pearls which are not suitable forstretch from the weight of the pearls. Mabe’, in stunning colours, over a the market colour wise, are treatedPlease let me explain carefully how to number of years. with Gama Rays which often end upwash them, using a plastic basin with dark in colour with many highlights,warm water and any soft hand soap, Natural pearls are found in really attractive in Jewelryhold the necklace in the palm of your Freshwater mussels. Farmers alsohand and rub them gently together, cultivate pearls in Mussels in lakes I will introduce you to the 7 Greatrinse them the same way on your and rivers. Mussel pearls are much Pearl Farmers who contributed to myhand and transfer them to a towel, flatter and longer but never perfectly book : ”PEARLS OF CREATION A-Z OFpat them and after a while turn the spherical as the shells do not allow PEARLS” 2ND EDITIONtowel with pearls over, and pat them the space for rounds. Many naturalagain gently. Leave them there lying pearls are also found in rivers and The different colours, shapes, sizes,flat till dry, please, do not lift them lakes, which are very different shapes natural and cultured, ocean &till they are dry. You will be surprised to the salt water varieties. freshwater pearls in rivers and lakeshow beautiful they are again. I had around the World, in oysters, mussels,washed my old Aunt Min’s favourite clams, etc, suit different pieces of 44 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018pearls, she was delighted as they Jewelry.looked lovely again.SHELL JEWELRY TAHITI BLACK PEARLS

Since 1992 Nick the Pearl Man has been at the cutting edge of glamour and style with imported excellence Garnet Stone set CZ set in Silver Button Pearls set CZ set in Silver Mabe set in Silver in Silver in SIlver Mabe set in Silver CZ set in gold CZ set in Silver CZ set in gold (9ct/y) and Silver (9ct/y) and Silver Tel: 012 804 3701 | Fax: 012 804 5527 Cell: 082 893 6444 | Office: 082 373 6724 Email: [email protected] www.nickthepearlman.co.za45 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018

46 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018 © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK

FEATURED ARTICLE ETHIOPIA: A NEW AFRICAN TREASURE TROVE. FIRST PRINTED IN ‘GEMS AND JEWELLERY’ Ethiopia is a rising star on the African continent as a source of coloured gems. The list of gemstones discovered to date in Ethiopia is certainly impressive: Opal, Garnet (Almandine and Grossular), Peridot, Tourmaline, Moonstone, Sunstone, Sapphire, Ruby, Amethyst, Smokey Quartz, Citrine, Tektite, Topaz, Epidote, Sinhalite, Emerald, Aquamarine, Golden Beryl and Zircon. The mining of opal, emerald, sapphire and amethyst has become an important source of income for people in the remote areas of the country and the government has made the utilization of their mineral wealth one of the countries principal objectives. OPAL FIGURE 1 FIGURE 2 FIGURE 3 In 1964, the discovery of gem opal in a golf ball to a cricket ball and most of The Welo opal deposit was discovered in 2008 near the village of Wegel Tena in the northern region of Shewa Province them carried the familiar three-legged the Wollo Province some 550 klms to the north-east of Addis-Ababa. was significant enough for Ethiopia to Mercedes emblem see fig 1. When The Welo opal is mostly white to achieve recognition as an important broken open they generally revealed somewhat translucent and milky however some of the material is transparent and opal producing nation. With subsequent a magnificent play of fire against a colourless, fire opal type or brownish. The opaque to translucent material becomes discoveries Ethiopia has begun to rival chocolate, or more rarely red body transparent when it is immersed in water (hydophane). Australia as a major source of fine colour figs 2 & 3. opals. 47 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018 Regrettably much of this opal is prone The typical spheres recovered from the to crazing. The honeycomb pattern Shewa deposit occurred in an igneous evident in fig 2 is encountered in both matrix. TDihreecytorarynSgteridp inB 2s1iz0exfr3o9mmm.ptdhfat o1 f 2017/S0h8/e2w1 a a9:n0d9 AWM elo opals, see fig 4. C C M M Y Y CM CM MY MY CY CYCMY CMY K K

FIGURE 4: HONEYCOMB PATTERN IN SHEWA ROUGH. In 2013 another opal deposit was discovered further to the north in Wollo Province. With a translucent grey to black body colour this material exhibits a good play of colour. Personal experience revealed that the play of colour can be localised within large areas of common opal. It was also disappointing that most of the cabochons I cut from this material crazed and cracked. EMERALDA recent discovery that is yielding in character. Most of the production issome fine emeralds is located near commercial grade although fine stonesthe village of Dermi in the Seba Boru have been cut that did not require oiling.District. The nearest town is Shakiso, The crystals are generally associatedabout 160 Klms north of the established with dark brown to black biotite mica,emerald mine at Dubuluk close to the quartz and kaolinite. This emeraldborder with Kenya. The mining is still has the same physical properties asdone traditionally but despite this there Zambian stones. Typical inclusions areis still a good production of rough. The platelets of biotite, growth tubes andmaterial is similar to Zambian emerald multi-phase cavities. SAPPHIREA new source of sapphire has been The typical inclusions are twinning © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORKdiscovered in the Tigray region of planes, fingerprints, crystallites, tubulesEthiopia where the artisanal miners and rutile needles. The majority of theare recovering rounded crystals from production is dark and would benefitsecondary alluvial deposits. Much of the from heat treatment to lighten thematerial is distinctly pleochroic carrying colour but a small percentage of thean intense dark blue hue with quite rough is suitable for faceting withoutmarked green dichroism. any treatment. Ethiopia is a vast country with a complex geology, this can be seen by the variety of minerals that have already beendiscovered there. In today’s world it sometimes feels like there is nothing new to be found. Ethiopia is reminding us that there is always something new coming out of Africa. I wonder what other hidden treasures are waiting to be discovered.Directory Strip 210 x 39.pdf 1 2017/08/21 9:25 AM Cell: 082 490 0219 | Tel: 011 465 0208 48 / JEWEL TRADER / MARCH 2018 Email: [email protected] Web: www.agemlab.co.za Address: Suite 8, 4th Floor, Block E, The Pivot Office Park, Montecasino, Fourways, JHB, SA, 2055

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