“ THE “ Diamonds and © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK DEFINITIVE Gemstones DIRECTORY REGISTER FOR AN ACCOUNT, AND BOOKINGS ARE ALREADY 80% FULL! ORDER STULLER PRODUCTS ONLINE ATDon’t get left out OR left behind – approve your DIGITALWAX.CO.ZAdetails now to be included in The Largest Trade [email protected] Directory in Southern Africa 011 8832449 : 0215541086 CELL: 0724370488 We have different packages available: Digital Wax is an Authorized PLATINUM GOLD Distributor of Stuller Inc. 50 / JEWEL TRADER / JUNE 2018 Up to 3 categories Up to 3 categories Includes Logo and full Includes full business business listing listing SILVER RETAILERS Up to 3 categories Retailers ofIncludes Company Name Southern Africa Back of Directory and 3 contact detailsCONTACT US FOR YOUR UNIQUE PACKAGE: (+27) 10 030 0888 [email protected]
FEATURED ARTICLE AKOYA CULTURED PEARLS ARTHUR THOMAS FELLOW, GEM-A(GTBR) / GRADUATE GEMOLOGIST GIA (USA) / CERTIFIED EVALUATOR (SA) EMAIL: [email protected] / TEL: (011) 784 0172 / CELL: (082) 469-6024 51 / JEWEL TRADER / JUNE 2018 In Japan the pearl farmers begin Then the usable pearls suitable for They take great care to ensure the full drilling are selected. The remaining matching of the pearls in each strand to lift their harvest in December. It 20% to 30% of the crop is discarded before the strands they have selected is winter, the water is and nacre as being defective and therefore are shown to a supervisor for his deposition has virtually stopped but unusable. final approval. The pearls are then they believe this is the time that the threaded on a transport strands and lustre of their pearls reaches its peak. The fully drilled pearls are bleached in made ready for shipping to markets In general the pearls of a “hamaage”, a solution of hydrogen peroxide and around the world. the Japanese name for a freshly lifted distilled water before they undergo crop of cultured pearls, can exhibit a further grading and selection. A The grading of pearls is a subjective rather greenish in hue. proportion of the creamy pearls with and very complex art. The initial task a good lustre and thick nacre may be that faces the gemmologist is to Once the flesh of the parent molluscs chosen for treatment by irradiation identify the nature of the pearl or has been removed the whole crop or with silver nitrate to produce black pearls he is required to grade. He must is immersed in a saline solution. The pearls. Various processes, heat, light determine if the pearls are marine pearls must be thoroughly cleaned and dilute water-based tints are or fresh-water, natural or cultured, before they undergo the preliminary frequently used when attempting to nucleated or non-nucleated. sorting in which many substandard establish uniformity of colour in those pearls are culled. The gem quality pearls that will make up necklace Of course he must first begin by pearls destined to be sold undrilled strands. The aim being to enhance as ensuring that he is in fact dealing are then removed which involves many of the pearls as possible. Ideally with pearls since there are many a further period of grading and some will achieve the most desirable remarkable pearl stimulants to be selection. white rosé hue. Sieves are then brought found in the market today. Once into use to standardise the size of he has established the species of Next those pearls that are suitable for the pearls that are to be made up as mollusc that produced them and the making half-drilled pearls for jewellery necklace strands. Batches of the same basic nature of the pearls he must applications are selected. In the case diameter and general appearance determine if they have been subjected of these pearls the single drill hole are then given to the experienced girls to bleaching, dying, irradiation or any may be placed in such a manner that 1wor2k0i1n8g/05o/n31sor8t:i2n2gAMtrays. other form of artificial enhancement. it rWehmoleosavlees21a0n(yw)mxin39or(him) mpmePrrfoedcucttiolnis. t.pdf C M Y CM MY CYCMY K
SUZHOU PEARL MARKET, SHANGHAI. AKOYA PEARL - ROSE Shape Pearls may exhibit a wide range of Nacre thickness © COPYRIGHT JEWELLERS’ NETWORK body hue, cream to yellow, greenish- Round or perfectly spherical these white, white, pinkish, silver, bluish and The “blinking test” is a basic test used pearls have the most desirable shape. grey. Bluish-grey pearls are often to estimate nacre thickness. The They are known in Japan as “eight- described as black. strand should be held at eye level way-rollers” because they run true about 30cms from a light source and in any direction when placed on a Mantle in a pearl refers to a tone of rotated. Blinking is the effect if the light perfectly horizontal sheet of glass. another colour over laying the body either reflecting from the mother-of- hue of the pearl. It is known in the pearl surface of the nucleus or being Slightly off-round, off-round, these USA as ‘overtone’. If three pearls are transmitted through its layers. The are pearls that tend to wobble either brought together on a sheet of white grader may also gain some indication slightly or to a greater extent when put paper and illuminated by a diffused of the thickness of the nacre by to this test. overhead light the body colour can be louping down the drill hole to see seen in the gap between the pearls. where the nacre ends and the dark Semi-baroque, pearls that are The mantle/overtone will be the hue conchiolin layer of the mother-of- somewhat irregular in shape. that can be seen immediately around pearl bead begins. the reflection of the light source on Baroque, irregular in shape. each pearl. In describing a pearl necklace the gemmologist records the dimensions Jumbo baroque, pearls in this group Orient is the green and/or purple and number of the pearls, evaluates show a marked degree of irregularity iridescent sheen to be seen on very the matching and the presence or to the extent that they may have fine pearls, especially black pearls. It absence of blemishes and spots. Is tadpole-like tails etc. resembles the iridescent sheen to be the strand knotted and the details of seen on a pigeon’s neck. the clasp and/or safety chain. Colour Lustre is a result of the fineness of the Descriptive terms for the The apparent colour of a pearl is nacre platelets, their transparency length of strands. made up of three components, body and the total thickness of the nacre hue, mantle and orient. However a layers. The fineness of a pearl’s lustre Choker: +/- 36 cms 52 / JEWEL TRADER / JUNE 2018 noticeable degree of orient is only can be judged by the sharpness of Princess: +/- 42cms found in those pearls that have a the reflection of a light source seen Matineé: +/- 54cms good coating and a fine lustre. on the crown of the pearl. The more Opera: +/- 72cms clearly defined this image the higher Rope: +/- 96cms the lustre. GIA 210 (w) x 39 (h) mm.pdf 1 2017/08/21 1:59 PM C M Y CM MY CYCMY K
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CAPE PRECIOUS METALS www.capepreciousmetals.co.za • [email protected] Refining is a precious responsibility that has been entrusted to us. Our clients are welcome to arrange with us to be present while we prepare, melt and scan their material We are committed to serving manufacturing jewellers through our extensive range of quality goods and reliable service, backed up by expert product knowledge. CPM utilises modern techniques to ensure maximum recovery and returns from waste materials including jeweller’s sweeps, solutions, polishings, filings and old solids. We are equipped to recover Platinum group metals and our Head Office has a division that extracts silver from redundant X-Ray film, generating 999 silver, which is alloyed and beneficiated into ready-to-use products for jewellers. We produce gold, platinum and palladium with a purity of 99.99% from our Cape Town refinery and from our preparation/melting and assay stations in Germiston, Durban and Port Elizabeth. We also stock an extensive range of quality, fair value tools, components and cleaners and offer CAD design, wax model and casting services as well as in-house assay facilities.55 / JEWEL TRADER / JUNE 2018 YOU CAN RELY ON CPM TO SUPPORT YOU WITH INTEGRITY ACROSS SOUTHERN AFRICA Jewellery Council HEAD OFFICE: JOHANNESBURG: DURBAN: PORT ELIZABETH: Servicing Western Gauteng, Northern KwaZulu-Natal Servicing the of Cape & Namibia Provinces & Botswana & the Free State Eastern Cape +27 (0)21 551 2066 +27 (0)11 334 6263 +27 (0)31 303 5402 +27 (0)41 365 1890 South Africa
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