GENERAL TIE-DOWN GUIDELINES: First of all, it’s a tie-DOWN, not a tie-IN. We want to pull everything DOWN towards the floor and hold it in place, not simply attach it to the raft. We call this “rigging for a flip” and you should always do it. Someday you’ll be good enough to relax a bit, but that’s a long ways off. For now, rig for a flip. Here are some signs of a tight tie-down: Each item has two points of tie-down; two lines or one line and something else attaching it to the raft, (in case one fails). Lines are passed through handles, under straps, through D-rings, etc. not simply around things. Tag ends of hoopie are no longer than 12 inches, excess hoopie is coiled or tied off, not “tucked in”. There are no triangles of open space where a foot, leg, or arm could slide through and wedge into the narrow angle and get stuck. Try to keep your lines tight against the gear and following the contours of the gear, not angling across through mid-air to the next point. All lines have smooth and natural “lines of tension”, no doubling back or severe angles. The load is reasonably symmetrical. Some guides get as anal as matching bag colors, others don’t. But all good guides have a logical, neat method that produces an orderly looking boat. There is ample space to move the oars (room to move the handles forward and back and a place for the blades when you “ship” them). A comfortable and safe place for guests to sit (if there are any); straps to hold on to, backrest, nothing banging around near their feet, no sand or grit on the paco seat, etc. The bowline is neatly coiled and not snaking around the front of the raft. Knots are easy to reach, easy to untie, secure. Stand back. How’s it look? As you will learn, the tie-down can be challenging. There is a fair amount of experimenting and thinking and tinkering that takes place the first time you load a raft for a trip. On an extended trip, we don’t want to go through this experimentation phase every day, so we pretty much try to stick to the same items in the same boats day after day. If you had 7 bags in your raft yesterday, take 7 bags today. If you can take more, ask around and get approval, don’t just grab 2 more and think everything will be cool. Someone might be relying on those bags to balance a load, fill a hole or provide a backrest. 50
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DIFFICULTY SCALE Rapids specifically, (and rivers indirectly), are rated numerically based on their difficulty and on the danger they present to boaters. The International Scale of River Difficulty was originally developed in an attempt to standardize difficulty ratings around the world and uses a scale of I (flatwater) to VI (unrunnable). An American Scale evolved later and is similar to the International Scale except that Class VI is considered runnable at extreme peril. The Colorado River through the Grand Canyon uses its own scale of 1 – 10. Here are the American definitions, just for reference: CLASS I – Easy. Fast-moving water with small riffles and waves. CLASS II – Novice. Straightforward rapids with wide, clear channels. CLASS III – Intermediate. Rapids with moderate, irregular waves that may be difficult to avoid. CLASS IV – Advanced. Intense, powerful but predictable rapids requiring precise boat handling in turbulent water. CLASS V – Expert. Extremely long, obstructed, or very violent rapids with complex, demanding routes and numerous obstacles. CLASS VI – Extreme. Rapids that present the extremes of difficulty, unpredictability, and danger. For teams of experts only, at favorable water levels, with all safety precautions taken and even then at extreme peril. UNRUNNABLE – Time for a hike. 52
When you add the facts that changes in water level can have a significant impact on a rapid’s difficulty and that all of this is based on subjective criteria, you realize that rating rapids is not an exact science. Class III’s become Class IV’s and IV’s become V’s as water levels change and one person’s opinion of a rapid’s difficulty might be different from another person’s. But the scale is good for getting a rough idea of a rapid’s difficulty. Because of the limitations of having essentially only three ratings (III, IV, and V) to apply to a large variation of difficulties, river runners started adding pluses and minuses to the ratings and it is now fairly common for rapids to be rated Class III+ or V-. Also, as skill, equipment and technique improved, rapids which were once considered unrunnable or Class VI were run successfully and therefore became Class V. This caused a general downward migration of the scale. A great example is Clavey Falls on the 'I'uolumne River in California which was considered unrunnable when people first started rafting and kayaking the river in the late 60’s. As boaters got more experience and as more boaters ran the Tuolumne, (and as more boaters probably got tired of walking around the Falls), some started to run Clavey. It went from being unrunnable to a Class VI and eventually to a Class V. Then, as skills continued to increase and equipment improved, people started running the Upper Tuolumne which contains numerous rapids that are more difficult than Clavey Falls. Since these rapids were being run regularly, they were now considered to be Class V or V+ and since they were more difficult than Clavey, Clavey became known as a Class IV+. At high flows, Clavey is still a legitimate Class V, but it is easier at some high flows than it is at some intermediate flows and… well, you get the picture. It is extremely difficult to rate rapids. The bottom line is that you need to judge the difficulty for yourself, taking into account the rapid, the water level, your equipment, your crew, the weather, the chances for recovery and rescue and, most of all, your personal skill, comfort and experience levels. Given the consequences of a bad estimation of any of these factors it is wise to proceed cautiously. 53
LEAVE NO TRACE CAMPING In 1991, the National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS) teamed with the Forest Service and the BLM to establish the Leave No Trace program which teaches skills and ethics for backcountry use. Standards and practices have been established to minimize the impacts of river travel and wilderness camping. This information is taken from their Western River Corridors handbook, available at www.lnt.org PLAN AHEAD AND PREPARE Educate yourself, know the regulations, pick an appropriate destination and itinerary for your group, use proper gear, take responsibility. TRAVEL AND CAMP ON DURABLE SURFACES Do not trample vegetation, cut live growth or blaze new trails; stay at established campsites, restore the site to a natural condition upon leaving, respect those who will follow you. DISPOSE OF WASTE PROPERLY Pack it in, pack it out; nothing is bio-degradable. Strain all kitchen wastewater through a fine mesh screen before disposal into the main river*. Prepare food on a tarp to catch crumbs if necessary; police the area and your group; tolerate no discretions. Carry a portable, re- useable toilet system and pack out all human waste. Dispose of urine directly into the river, ideally into moving current* LEAVE WHAT YOU FIND Preserve the past, leave artifacts and remnants of previous cultures and eras in place, (more than 50 years old). Leave natural features undisturbed, collect no rocks, pick no flowers. Avoid spreading non-native plants and animals MINIMIZE CAMPFIRE IMPACTS Use stoves and firepans, carry out ALL ashes and charred wood, use driftwood or, better, bring your own firewood, Manage your campfire, attend it at all times, keep it small, don’t burn trash. RESPECT WILDLIFE Do not feed, disturb, or follow wild animals, secure all food and trash. BE CONSIDERATE OF OTHER VISITORS Give space, be sensitive to noise, avoid bright lights. Be kind. Share. * The solution to pollution is dilution. In rivers of greater than 500 cfs it is acceptable to dispose of strained liquid waste and urine directly into the river. . 54
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS How many students will be on my school? A typical school is 12 students, 3 instructors and 1 Assistant Instructor (usually a recent whitewater school graduate). What will the other students be like? Come on, we don’t even know what YOU will be like, how could we know what the others will be like? Like you, I guess. Can I bring my own lifejacket? Yes. We may, however, ask you to wear one of ours if we don’t think yours is appropriate, especially given the amount of swimming you might be doing (planned and unplanned). Can I fail? Of course you can fail, but the course is self-graded, so failure is up to you. The most disappointing thing we hear every year from graduates is: “I wish I had done this” or “I should have done that.” Seize the moment, every day. How early in the morning will I have to get up? First of all, it’s not a good sign if you are asking this question. We usually divide the students up into three “cook crews” and each will have a different responsibility each day. The breakfast crew will be up and at it by 6:00 or 6:30 on most days, the other crews shortly thereafter. Everyone will stay up too late. What happens after the school? Some graduates will be given the opportunity to work as an Assistant Guide after the trip (see Appendix G). Not everyone, though, so in that sense you might “not pass” (that’s different than failing). Students who we feel are incapable of safely getting the raft down the river or who we feel might be a distraction during the trip won’t be invited to be an Assistant Guide. Usually, another 7 to 10 days of Assistant Guiding will prepare you for taking your own raft with paying passengers, but there are exceptions in both directions. Can I work as a commercial guide after my school? We always seem to be able to find work for outstanding students. You can improve your chances by obtaining a First Aid and CPR card before your school (see Appendix A). If we don’t have work available for you, you can often find work with other outfitters, (see Appendix I). By freelancing (often called “rent-a-guiding”) most qualified students can earn back their tuition in their first summer. How many briquettes go on top of the Dutch Oven? Like many things: it depends. Are they glowing orange or dull gray? Are you making brownies or an upside-down cake? Windy or calm? Patience, grasshopper, the way will come to you. Are there any tests? Will I get a grade? The whole thing is sort of a test, but it’s an open-book, team effort, so you shouldn’t get stressed about it. You won’t get a grade, but you will get 2 one-on-one or two-on-one evaluations from your instructors that will help you figure out how you’re doing. Most people already know. Will I get a certificate or license? You’ll get a card that says you took the school and you can put it in your wallet and show your friends, but it isn’t an official license. Licensing is a state-by-state affair and there are different regulations. Our schools are well-known and well-respected so the training is valuable if you are looking for work for another outfitter. 55
COMMERCIAL GUIDING Getting paid to go rafting looks like a dream job: sunshine, adulation, wilderness, free food. But with it, comes an incredible responsibility. Whitewater rafting is inherently dangerous and ensuring the safety and comfort of your fellow travelers, especially those in your raft, is your job. For some, this is an overwhelming burden, for others it is a rational challenge; for everyone, it is a somber and maturing responsibility. Take it seriously and you will succeed; minimize it and you will find yourself boating alone. Working commercially also means being part of a team. A team whose ability to work well together and support each other will make the difference between a successful trip and a not-so-successful trip. An inexperienced guide can be helped down a river by the other guides without much risk, however a guide who acts on his or her own, without regard for the other guides, is a dangerous liability. 56
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SAFETY SECOND As we said in the beginning, the goal of our whitewater schools is to produce safe boaters. We’re going to spend a lot of time talking about safe boating and looking at things with safety in mind. There’s a good reason for this: whitewater rafting is an inherently dangerous activity; boating safely minimizes the risks to an acceptable level. If you are working as a commercial guide or taking your friends and family out for a day on the river, safety is of critical importance. The following guidelines are based on years of experience and are drawn from many people and many situations. PRIOR TO LAUNCHING: 1. Prepare yourself. Thoroughly research the stretch of river you intend to run. Make sure your skills and equipment are suited to the difficulty of the river. If possible, go with more experienced boaters with previous trips on the specific river. Don’t overestimate your skills or the competency of your group, stay well within your limitations. 2. Research evacuation routes and know how to contact emergency personnel in case of an accident. 3. Know first aid, emergency care, and CPR. Carry a complete first aid kit, (see Appendices A & K). 4. Know repair techniques and carry a repair kit, (See Appendices B & C). 5. Know how to unwrap a raft, how to line or portage rapids and carry a complete Wrap Kit (See Appendices D & K). 6. Dress appropriately. Thermal protection (wetsuits) for difficult, cold-water rivers, good rain gear and fleece for cold weather trips, helmets where needed. And always wear your sunscreen. ON THE RIVER: 1. Wear a lifejacket at all times. Carry an extra lifejacket (one per raft) in case one is lost or damaged. 2. Wear appropriate footwear that will stay on your feet while swimming, protect your feet against rocks and that can be worn for an emergency hike for help. 3. Wear a knife for cutting lines in emergencies, (entrapments, entanglements). Never allow loose lines which could wrap around an extremity. 4. Always have two or more rafts in your party. 5. Travel as an organized group. Designate a specific boat order. 6. Always “rig for a flip”. Secure all gear as firmly as possible. 7. Scout all rapids which cannot be clearly seen from upstream. Portage or line those that are too difficult. 8. Station a raft below all major rapids to assist in rescue/recovery procedures. GENERAL: 1. Remain alert. Remain aware. Even as you gain confidence and skill, do not lull yourself into thinking that the danger is gone. Maintain a pocket of fear; a clear, frank perception that what you are doing is dangerous 2. Remember, that in addition to your own safety, you are responsible for the safety of all the other people in your raft and in your group. This is a responsibility which cannot be delegated and with which you must be comfortable. 60
THE RIVER (remix) At the end of your school, it will all look different, it will all feel different, it will all be different. What was once a jumbled rush of splashing waves and menacing rocks will be a coherent vision of friendly currents and welcoming eddies. What was once a collection of strange faces, odd mannerisms and quirky habits will be a river-family of lifetime friends, (with strange faces, odd mannerisms and quirky habits). What was once a “long wooden thingy” will be an oar. The river will be less mysterious, less confusing, less scary. You will be more confident, more competent, more sore. BEWARE! You must always maintain a healthy respect for the river. It is stronger than you, it is older than you, it is more patient than you. And persistent; heck, it symbolizes persistence. You cannot overpower it. You cannot control it. You will not outlast it. No one conquers the river. When you come to view it as a mentor and a teacher, when you figure out how to work with it and when to surrender to it, when you can lie in your sleeping bag at night and listen to it and let it teach you how to be humble and how to be patient and how to find your way through the obstacles, you will have arrived as a true boater. It will be a great day. May it come soon. 61
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APPENDIX A FIRST AID KITS A complete first aid kit should be carried on every trip. It is also becoming common practice to carry a separate Minor First Aid Kit that contains commonly used minor supplies. Each guide should be trained in first aid care and should know the contents and location of the first aid kit at all times. The first aid kit should be checked prior to every trip; a laminated list of contents secured to the lid of the First Aid Kits helps. SUGGESTED CONTENTS: Disinfectant, (Betadine, Hibicleans) MAJOR KIT - Antibiotic ointment, (Neosporin) Sunscreen and/or sunblock Pen and Paper Aspirin, Tylenol and Midol Patient Evaluation Forms Children's Tylenol Witness Statement Forms Eye drops, (Murine, Visine, etc.) Accident Report Forms Kaopectate Near Miss Report Forms Calamine lotion Emergency Plan and River Antacid Evacuation Plan Appropriate Maps First Aid booklet Band-aids, (assorted sizes) Sam splints Butterfly closures or proxy strips Q-tips 1 and 2 inch adhesive tape Scissors or trauma shears Maxi-pads Tweezers Triangular bandage Safety pins 2 and 3 inch ace bandages Needle and thread 1 and 3 inch gauze, (rolls) Matches 3 inch gauze pads Thermometer Moleskin Syringe Bee sting kit (Epi-pen) Latex rubber gloves Asthma Inhaler Pocket mask/Micro-shield SUGGESTED CONTENTS: Betadine or other cleanser MINOR KIT - Tweezers Scissors Band-aids, (assorted sizes) Sunblock, (SPF 24 or more) Maxi-pads Latex gloves Waterproof tape Micro-shield Anti-biotic ointment (Neosporin) Sterile pads Aspirin and Ibuprofen 63
APPENDIX B REPAIR KIT A complete repair kit should be carried on every trip. All guides should know the contents and location of the repair kit at all times and should be proficient at making repairs. This should be checked prior to every trip. SUGGESTED CONTENTS: Acid brushes Channel Lock pliers 1 and 2 part glue Phillips and flat-head screwdrivers Mixing cup Nut-driver for hose clamps Toluol solvent Crescent or ratchet wrench for thole pins Patch material Scissors Rags Pens, (ballpoint and marking) Duct tape Sandpaper, emory cloth and/or alligator skin Replacement valves 3 or 4 hose clamps Utility wire Extra thole pin assembly Electrical tape Extra oar clip 64
APPENDIX C PATCHING A HOLE IN A RAFT The following procedure is for rafts made of Hypalon material. Different procedures are required for other fabrics. 1. Cut patch material so that it overlaps the tear by at least 2 inches on all sides. It may be necessary to remove other patches or accessory patches (D rings, handles, etc). Hypalon glue is heat sensitive, so you can remove old patches by heating the material with a heat gun or hair dryer and carefully pealing away the old patch. 2. Center the patch over the damaged area and outline on the boat with a ballpoint pen. It is sometimes helpful to put index marks across the patch and onto the raft to assist in lining up the two during final application. 3. Use sandpaper to abrade the underside of the patch and the area marked on the boat. Sand enough to remove the gloss but not down to the fabric. Old glue can be removed with toluene and rags, sandpaper, a nylon rotary brush on a power drill, a dremel rotary tool or, usually, some sort of combination. 4. Glue should be mixed according to the instructions on the label. A basic rule for 2- part cement is to remember that one can of glue is used with one bottle of activator, so mix to that ratio, (approximately 10 drops of catalyst per ounce of glue). Try to mix only the amount you need to make the repair, it can’t be saved. 5. Apply a thin coat of glue to the patch and to the boat. You can use a brush with the bristles trimmed way down or an applicator stick (a square-ended, tongue depressor sized piece of plastic about 1 inch wide). The goal is to get a very thin, film-like coat, (no globs or mounds). Allow this coat to dry until it is no longer tacky to the touch (15 - 20 minutes). You want the glue to dry evenly, so keep the area shaded and dry. 6. Apply a second coat. Same as the first. Allow this coat to dry for about 10 minutes. 7. While the second coat is still tacky, place the patch carefully over the tear, using the index marks to help you get it oriented properly. Start at one end and work towards the other, smoothing it out as you go. It is usually helpful to get assistance at this point to hold the boat flat, etc. 8. Rub the entire area of the patch with the edge of a blunt tool. The hard, smooth, rounded end of a screwdriver handle or the hard, black plastic ball from the end of a thole pin work really well. The rubbing accomplishes a couple of things: First, you are getting rid of any air bubbles and making sure that the entire patch is in contact with the raft. Second, you are generating some heat which will help activate the glue, so give it a good, hard rubbing. 9. If you can, allow the patch to set for at least thirty minutes before inflating the raft, and even then, it’s probably best to not take it up to full pressure for at least 12 hours. 65
APPENDIX D WRAP KIT We call it a wrap kit but we should call it an UNwrap kit, (or a Rescue Kit). It is an essential piece of equipment to bring along. Always keep it handy (on top of your load) because you don’t want to have to dig down too deep to get it when you need it. We keep ours in its own clearly marked bag and we throw in a few things that don’t fit well in the regular repair kit (large roll of duct tape and a big piece of patch material). May you never need yours. . SUGGESTED CONTENTS: Static line, (minimum: 150 feet, 11 mm or 7/16 inch diameter) 3 20 foot pieces of 1 inch webbing 3 prusik loops 2 rescue pulleys 2 locking carabiners 4 regular carabiners Large roll duct tape Large piece patch material *A prusik loop is a 4 to 5 foot length of nylon cord, (1/4\" - 3/8\" diameter), tied into a loop using a Double Fisherman’s knot. When attached to a line under tension, (i.e. safety line during a wrap), the prusik acts like a mid-line loop to which carabiners or pulleys can be attached. When tension is applied to the prusik, it locks securely to the line; when tension is released, the prusik can slide along the line, allowing the carabiner to be moved without untying a knot. 66
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APPENDIX E SAFETY TALK Prior to getting on the river, it is standard procedure to give everyone a safety briefing to make sure they know what to expect and what to do. You should take the opportunity during your school to give a safety talk and get some feedback. INTRODUCTIONS - Welcome to the river, introduce other guides, give the plan for the day, note flow or weather conditions. Explain purpose of Safety Talk – This is an inherently dangerous activity and these are the things everyone needs to do in order to minimize the risks. Please pay attention and ask questions. Describe boat options and requirements. QUESTIONS? – Give guests an opportunity to express fears, concerns, expectations, wishes, etc. Make safety talk interactive. PERSONAL EQUIPMENT - Lifejackets - Importance, wear at all times, proper fit, (demonstrate), all buckles fastened. Do not misuse, (not a seat cushion). Helmets and wetsuits - If and why required, fit, when to wear. Shoes - Required on river and in camp to avoid injury. Must stay on when swimming, (no slip-ons or flip-flops). STAYING IN THE RAFT – Make it a priority. Stay agile and alert with center of gravity low and three points of contact, (feet, butt, paddle). Paddle aggressively in paddle rafts, hang on in the oar rafts. Fall INTO the raft if you have to fall. Anticipate boat action, expecially when bumping rocks (boat stops, con tents keep moving). SWIMMING - Protective - through whitewater and strong current. PROTECT YOURSELF until calmer water, (no white). On back with feet downstream, (demonstrate). Knees bent, feet up, eyes and ears open. Breathe between wave crests. Steer using sculling motion, (elementary backstroke). Try to hold on to paddle (added reach). Do not try to stand up, (foot entrapment - explain). Do not swim to trees, brush, etc. (strainers - explain) Aggressive – to shore or boat in calm water or in rapids when needed. SAVE YOURSELF. Roll over on stomach. Crawl stroke to boat (best), or clear shoreline, (no strainers). If under raft, move in one direction to side or upstream, (avoid down stream side of raft). Rescue into raft by pulling up on shoulders of lifejacket. 68
APPENDIX E SAFETY TALK Part II THROW BAGS - Explain purpose (extreme effort to rescue a swimmer) and danger (entanglement). Demonstrate proper procedure for receiver - grab rope, (not bag), hold over shoulder, lay on back, pendulum in. FLIPS - Everyone is a swimmer, boat is a hazard. Get out from under raft, get on top, to side, or upstream of raft, (not downstream, pinning danger) Listen to guide for further instructions. WRAPS – Boat is plastered against rock, some swimmers, some people on rock, chaotic. Prefer to avoid. Explain techniques to avoid, (missing rocks, hitting them head-on, high-siding). Explain High-Side command and what is expected. Listen to guide for further instructions. If wrapped, pay special attention to ropes and entrapments. COMMUNICATION – Important to pay attention. Basic hand signals: Are you O.K.? - Question (touch head) and answer (touch head). We are looking for a response, make eye contact, show us you are o.k. Point positive – Guides will always point towards where you should go whether swimming or in a ducky. WATERFIGHTING – Exercise caution and control. No boarding other raft, watch paddle backswing, respect everyone’s wishes. ALCOHOL AND TOBACCO – No drinking alcohol or smoking while on the rafts. No drinking alcohol at lunch. Smoking in camp, only near river due to fire hazard. DRINKING WATER – Do not drink from river or sidestreams. Recommend personal water bottles. Community bottles available in rafts. Drink throughout the day to avoid dehydration. SLIPPERY ROCKS – Water, moss, sand, etc. Move cautiously getting in and out of rafts. Watch your step on shore. Minor injuries can put a damper on vacation, major injuries are really major. BEES AND BITING INSECTS – Ask for known allergies, identify location of personal epi-kits, etc. PASS INFO ALONG TO OTHER GUIDES ANY QUESTIONS? DOES ANYONE NOT WANT TO GO? HIT THE RIVER. Divide the group into the appropriate boats. Specific instructions will be given by the guide in each boat. 69
APPENDIX F - RIVER ETIQUETTE Along with learning to get a boat safely down the river, one also develops a certain respect for the river and for your fellow boaters with whom you are sharing it. There are general rules of etiquette that are basically \"understood' and always followed. 1. Adequate preparation assures a smooth trip for yourself. Know what you are doing. No one likes to be bothered by annoying \"crash & burn\" boaters. No one likes to interrupt their trip to help rescue a trip that isn’t prepared or skilled. 2. Keep a respectful distance between groups. Tailgating is obnoxious and dangerous. It also distracts one from the pleasant surroundings of the river. 3. Ask permission before passing another group. When passing, keep your group together which requires prior communication and preparation. Tell the group you are passing how many boats are in your group. When someone comes up behind you and is obviously moving faster than your group, eddy out and allow them to pass. 4. Keep your own group together for safety, easy communication, and to avoid mixing groups. If it is necessary to pull over, do it. 5. Don’t block the free flow of traffic by bunching up and drifting in the main current. 6. While in camp respect others camping near you. All noise travels fast and far in a river canyon, obnoxious noise travels faster and further. 7. Camp in a site that is appropriate for the size of your group 8. Leave your camp as you found it. Follow the Leave No Trace ethic (www.lnt.org). 9. Take only the room you need at put-in and take-out. Keep your gear together and compact. 10. Be aware of and comply with each river's rules and regulations. 11. Respect others using the river. Boaters are not the only people who enjoy the beauty of the river. Give fishermen and others as much room and peace as you can. 12. Respect the natural environment and native habitat. Leave the river as you found it for the next person to enjoy. 70
APPENDIX G – ASSISTANT GUIDES After Whitewater School, the best way to continue your training is to be an Assistant Guide on a regular ARTA commercial trip. As an Assistant Guide on an overnight trip, you will be expected to take complete responsibility for a fully loaded gear boat (rigging, rowing, etc) and to participate in all aspects of the trip (setting up camp, cooking meals, leading hikes, etc). While it is common, (and usually more fun) to share a boat with another Assistant Guide, you will be expected to be able to do everything on your own. It is a big responsibility and, next to your first day in your own raft with commercial guests, probably the most significant milestone in your guiding career. Here are some hints to make it as successful as possible: Before the trip: Confirm everything with the Area Manager. We’re counting on you to be at the right place at the right time and peace of mind is a valuable thing; providing it earns you some easy points. Show up early, with all your gear, ready to go. If you don’t have your own waterproof bag or lifejacket, you are welcome to use ours, (but we draw the line at tents, sleeping pads, lip balm, etc.) During the trip: Work hard, ask questions, smile, and don’t sleep through breakfast. Seems obvious, doesn’t it? What we expect from assistant guides: Safe boating skills Good judgment Responsibility for guests and self Proper care of equipment Team spirit Shining personality Solid work ethic Good humor. Qualities that differentiate average Assistant Guides from outstanding ones in the eyes of ARTA: Educational opportunity We’re a non-profit, educational organization, even if it is just your favorite Edward Abbey passage or silly campfire activity, bring something to share. Intellectual stimulation Take an interest, share an interpretive nugget, make friends with our guests; their recommendation is one of the most valuable things you can get. Passionate exuberance We always seem to find work for guides who are enthusiastic, energetic, and cheerful even if they can’t row that well, (and we rarely find work for those who aren’t even if they can). Even if you flounder at EVERYTHING you are asked to do, flounder with passion, humor and a positive attitude and your chances of coming back will be much greater. Things that are helpful to bring: Headlamp (there is no excuse for not washing the dessert dishes) Watch or clock with alarm (there is no excuse for sleeping through breakfast) Water bottle (you’ll be in your own boat all day, by yourself, DRINK!) Cup (we’ll probably have one for you, but it’s embarrassing if we don’t) Sunscreen, hat, gloves, lip balm, etc. (take care of yourself) Something to share (yes, we are repeating ourselves, for a reason). 71
APPENDIX H – EQUIPMENT DEALERS Need some gear? Here’s a list of places that sell it. Northwest River Supply Pretty much everything from sandals 2009 S. Main to frames to doggie lifejackets Moscow, ID 83843 208-882-2383 Great source of harder to find stuff, www.nrsweb.com old-school items and good knowledge. Pacific River Supply Lots of clothing and private boater 3675 San Pablo Dam Road stuff Sobrante, CA 94803 510-223-3675 More hardware and gear than clothing www.pacificriversupply.com but lots of items Cascade Outfitters Lots of gear and friendly advice 604 East 45th St. more hardware and equipment than Boise, ID 83714 clothing 800/223-7238 www.cascadeoutfitters.com Down River Equipment 12100 West 52nd Ave Wheat Ridge, CO 80033 888/467-2144 www.downriverequip.com Clavey Equipment 409 Petaluma Blvd South Petaluma, CA 94953 707-766-8070 or 800-832-4226 www.clavey.com 72
APPENDIX I – RIVER OUTFITTERS Although ARTA would like to employ everyone who completes whitewater school, it is not always possible. Other companies to consider in California include the following: All-Outdoors 1250 Pine Street, Suite 103 Walnut Creek CA 94596 925-932-8993 [email protected] Zephyr Whitewater P.O. Box 510 Columbia, CA 95310 209-532-6249 [email protected] River Runners PO Box 433 Coloma California 95613 530-622-5110 [email protected] Adventure Connection/RaftCalifornia 6500 State Highway 49 Lotus, CA 95651-9764 530 - 626-7385 [email protected] OARS PO Box 67 Angels Camp, CA 95222 209-736-4677 Kern River Outfitters 6602 Wofford Blvd Wofford Heights, CA 93285 760-376-3370 [email protected] 73
APPENDIX J MORE TRAINING In order to work as a commercial river guide, you will need a minimum of a Standard Red Cross First Aid Card (8 hours) and a CPR card (4 hours). Most First Aid Classes are oriented towards urban environments, (Call 911) so it is highly recommended that you obtain Wilderness First Aid training (16 hours). Wilderness First Responder (WFR) certification (90 hours) is the best and will prepare you for extreme backcountry emergencies. Our whitewater schools do not include First Aid certification, but these places do: NOLS-Wilderness Medicine Institute The leader www.nols.edu/wmi 866-831-9001 Wilderness Medical Associates Big east coast presence www.wildmed.com 888-945-3633 SOLO Well respected programs www.soloschools.com 603-447-6711 Sierra Rescue Personal and experienced www.sierrarescue.com 800-208-2723 In addition to First Aid, a formal Swiftwater Rescue class is great training to have. Most swiftwater classes are two days, one day of dry land work (ropes, knots, etc.) and one day in the water with swimming, throwbagging, river crossings, etc.) They are all a lot of fun and will make you feel much more confident on the river. They haven’t yet reached the standardization level of first aid courses, but here are some people that offer good, thorough programs: Sierra Rescue Expect to get wet, very wet www.sierrarescue.com 800-208-2723 Great courses Rescue 3 Often oriented to urban www.rescue3.com 800-457-3728 settings (fire departments) American Canoe Association Good courses, a well- www.acanet.org 703-451-0141 respected standard 74
APPENDIX K RIVER PERMITS Most of the major rivers in the west have a permit system that limits access and controls the number of people who can float them. Here is some general information and the contact information for many of the more popular runs. Rogue River, Oregon: Class III-IV, 35 miles, 3-5 days. Runnable year-round. BLM issued permits required May 15 through October 15 Easily the most complicated permit system ever invented (which ultimately means it is easier to get a permit). More information: https://www.recreation.gov/permits/251982 Tuolumne River, California: Class IV-V, 18 miles, 1,2 or 3 days. Runnable early spring through fall. Permits required May 1 through September 15 Contact: U.S. Forest, 24545 Highway 120, Groveland, CA 95321; 209-962-7825. Reservations on a first-come, first-served basis, applications accepted after January 1. Selway River, Idaho: Class IV, 48 miles, 3-6 days. Runnable May through August. Permits required from May 15 to July 31. Permits issued through the 4 Rivers Lottery: https://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/scnf/passes-permits/recreation/?cid=fsbdev3_029568 Main Salmon River, Idaho: Class III (class IV at high water), 85 miles, 4-6 days. Permits are required year round. Lottery season is June 20 through September 7 Permits issued through the 4 Rivers Lottery: https://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/scnf/passes-permits/recreation/?cid=fsbdev3_029568 Middle Fork of the Salmon River, Idaho: Class III-IV, 100 miles, 3-6 days. Permits are required year round. Lottery season is May 28 through Sept. 3. Permits issued through the 4 Rivers Lottery: https://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/scnf/passes-permits/recreation/?cid=fsbdev3_029568 Yampa River, Colorado/Utah: Class III to IV, 71 miles, 4—5 days. Permits are required from May 10 through July 15, Lottery applications 12/1—2/1 Permits issued through Dinosaur National Monument https://www.nps.gov/dino/planyourvisit/non-commercial-river-trips.htm Green River, Canyon of Lodore, Colorado/Utah: Class 111, 44 miles, 3—4 days. Permits are required from May 10 through Sept. 15. Lottery applications 12/1—2/1 Permits issued through Dinosaur National Monument https://www.nps.gov/dino/planyourvisit/non-commercial-river-trips.htm Cataract Canyon, Colorado River, Utah: Class IV, 112 miles, 5-6 days. Permits required year-round. Applications accepted 1/1 -- first-come, first-served. Permits issued through Canyonlands National Park https://www.nps.gov/cany/planyourvisit/riverpermits.htm Grand Canyon, Colorado River, Arizona: Class IV, 277 miles, 1-3 weeks. Permits are required year-round. New applications accepted only in February. Permits issued through Grand Canyon National Park https://www.nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/weightedlottery.htm 75
GLOSSARY AMMO BOX - A military surplus metal waterproof container. Short for ammunition box. 50 caliber boxes make nice personal boxes; 20 mm boxes (“Rocket Boxes”) are used for food storage and portable toilets. BAIL BUCKET - A plastic bucket (such as a pickle bucket) used to remove water from a raft. Also called a bailer. BOW - The front of the raft. BOW CRASHING - A technique used in big hydraulics, it involves having the passengers in the bow put all of their weight as far forward as possible. This keeps the bow down (in big waves) and also provides momentum for pushing through holes BREAKING WAVE – A wave that is cresting at such an angle that the top portion is falling back upstream onto the face of the wave. Looks like an ocean wave, but stays in one place. BUFFER - Water that is being forced upstream by an obstacle. Buffers are always found on the upstream side of the obstacle. Also called a cushion. CARABINER- A mountaineering clip used to secure something to a rope. C.F.S. - Cubic Feet per Second, a measurement of a river's volume. One cubic foot equals 7.48 gallons or 62 pounds of water. CHANNEL - A clear passage between obstacles. Also called a chute or slot. CHUTE - A clear passage between obstacles, usually narrower than a channel. Also called a channel or slot. CLIP - A metal device attached to an oar which retains the oar on a thole pin. \"Pins and clips\" is a common way to set up oars and rowing frame. Oarlocks are an alternative. CONFLUENCE - The flowing together of two streams, creeks or rivers. CONSTRICTION - A place where the entire river narrows to flow between two obstructions, often large rocks or canyon walls. Generally, as the channel narrows, the speed increases. CUSHION- Water that is being forced upstream by an obstacle. Cushions are always found on the upstream side of an obstacle. Also called buffers. D-RING - A metal or plastic ring to which something is tied. Named for their shape. Generally found around the outside of a raft and used for securing the rowing frame. DORY - A wooden boat with an upturned and pointed bow and stern. Dories have internal flotation and will not sink. Similar to a drift boat. DRIFT BOAT - A wooden or aluminum boat with pointed and upturned bow and stern. Drift boats have no internal flotation and will sink if overturned. Used extensively for fishing. Similar to a dory. EDDY - Usually calm water immediately downstream from an obstacle. Caused by water flowing back in behind an obstacle. The flow in an eddy is often opposite to the main current. 76
GLOSSARY EDDY FENCE - The separation line between the main current and the eddy. This area often has odd cross and under currents. FERRY ANGLE - The angle between the raft and the current (not the shoreline). FLIP – To turn a raft upside down. FLIP-LINE - A short piece of line, (usually 1 inch tubular webbing), between 6 and 8 feet long, used to assist in righting a flipped raft or as a universal anchor line, (usually carried by a guide on their person, and only used when needed). Also a line pre-tied underneath a raft from one side to the other to aid in righting a flipped raft, (usually rigged at put-in in preparation for a flip). GARBO - Another name for bow-crashing. Named after Greta Garbo who never went whitewater rafting but whose dance steps inspired this agile maneuver. GRADIENT - The rate at which the river drops, usually measured in feet per mile. HAYSTACK - A smooth, non-breaking wave; usually indicates a clear passage. Also called a standing wave. HIGH-SIDE - A maneuver requiring all people in the raft to get their weight on the “high” side of the raft. Used to avoid flipping and wrapping. Similar to rock-side, but can be used without a rock. HOLE - A place where the current is violently rushing upstream after pouring over a ledge or rock. Also called a reversal. INFLATABLE CANOE - A small rubber canoe for one or two people. Paddled with a double-ended kayak paddle. Also called a Ducky, Tahiti, or Inflatable Kayak. LINING - The act of lowering a raft through a rapid using ropes from shore. An alternative to running or portaging a rapid. OAR - The device used to row. Usually 10 - 11 feet long. OARLOCK-A U-shaped metal device on a rowing frame used as a fulcrum point for an oar. Usually bronze. An alternative oar rigging method to pins and clips. PADDLE - A five to six foot long device, held in the hands and used for paddling. PADDLE FRAME - A short metal frame used in a paddle raft enabling it to carry some gear. Similar to but smaller than a rowing frame, (no thole pins or oarlocks). PADDLE-ASSIST - A technique combining both oars and paddles. Very useful in technical and difficult whitewater when the added strength of paddlers and the added stability of oars are required. Also called oar- paddle combination or power-pack. 77
GLOSSARY P.F.D. - Personal Flotation Device, another name for a lifejacket. “POP” AN OAR - An expression used to describe what happens when an oar is bumped off of a thole pin. Caused by the downstream oar hitting an obstacle and the oar being “popped” (sometimes quite abruptly) so that the clip is driven off of the pin. PORTAGING - The act of transporting all of the gear around a rapid by foot. PORTEGEE - Pushing on the oars. Named for the Portuguese fishermen who use this technique when rowing. Also called pushing or tracking. POUR-OVER - A rock that is barely submerged by current. PRUSIK - A short loop of strong line used as a loop on a longer, thicker rope. Often used when making a Z-Rig. PULL - The basic rowing stroke. Oar blades enter the water towards the back of the raft and move forward through the water as the handles are pulled towards the body. Moves the raft opposite to the direction the rower is facing. PUSH - A weaker rowing stroke. Oar blades enter the water towards the front of the raft and move through the water as the handles are pushed away from the body. Moves the raft in the same direction as the rower is facing. Also called portegee or tracking. PUT-IN - The place where the boats are launched into the river. REVERSAL - A violent upstream current caused when the river flows over an obstacle and then has to fill in the void below (downstream of) the obstacle. The water in a reversal is flowing in a circular motion (when viewed in cross-section) and can hold rafts and/or people in its recycling flow. RIVER LEFT - The left side of the river when facing downstream. RIVER RIGHT - The right side of the river when facing downstream. ROCK-SIDE - A command or maneuver used to get all of the people in the raft onto the side of the raft that is hitting the rock. Used to avoid wrapping a raft. ROUGHNESS - The general characteristic of the river bed. ROWING FRAME - A metal frame which acts as a sturdy platform for securing gear and as a solid base for attaching the oars. Rowing frames are set up either with \"pins and clips\" or \"oarlocks\" which act as a steady fulcrum for the oars. SAFETY LINE - A 150 to 200 foot section of sturdy rope, usually half-inch in diameter, used for unwrapping rafts. Most safety lines are “static” meaning they have a minimum amount of stretch in them; (climbing ropes are “dynamic” and are designed to stretch so as to absorb the load of a falling object). 78
GLOSSARY SCOUT - To walk along shore and look at a rapid which is difficult to see from the river and to plan a route through the rapid. SHUTTLE – The moving of vehicles from the put-in site to the take-out point. SLEEPER - A surprise rock or hole usually disguised as a wave. STANDING WAVE - A smooth hump in the river caused by underwater obstructions, constrictions or other factors. A series of standing waves usually marks the deepest channel. Also called a haystack. STERN - The back of the raft. SURF – To cause the raft stay in one place on a wave or in a hole, similar to surfing an ocean wave. Sideways movement is often possible by surfing across on a breaking wave. SWEEP BOAT - The last raft in the boat order. The sweep boat usually carries the first aid and repair kits as well as the safety gear and any replacement items. Named because it \"sweeps\" up any problems found along the river. Also a raft rigged with its oars fore and aft, and parallel to the direction of travel; common on the Middle Fork of the Salmon. TACO - When bridged between two rocks, (one towards the bow, the other towards the stern) a raft will often fold in the middle and force its way through, or taco. THOLE PIN - A metal bolt to which the oar is clipped and which acts as the fulcrum point when rowing. THROW BAG - A small stuff sack containing 50 - 75 feet of rope which can be thrown so as to get a line from point A to point B. THWART - The cross tubes of a raft used for sitting and stabilization. TONGUE - A smooth V-shaped current usually found at the beginning of a rapid. Also called a downstream V because of its shape and direction. TRACKING - Pushing downstream through a rapid using the currents and waves to move laterally across the river. TWO OAR PIVOT - The act of spinning the raft by pushing on one oar while pulling on the other. VOLUME - The amount of water in the river, usually measured in cubic feet per second, cfs. WRAP - To pin a raft against an obstacle, usually a rock, so that the force of the water presses it flat (vertical) against the obstacle. The boat \"wraps\" around the rock. Z-RIG - A rope and pulley system used to unwrap a raft. A three to one advantage is obtained by doubling the rope back on itself, forming a Z. 79
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