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November 2021 Magazine about the road less travelled Big&TTrharilislls: LittIlendia The Glam That Page 1 - Hasn’t Lost Its Shine Always Buzzing, Always Chinatown

PLACES To Travel is To Live - Hans Christian Anderson Page 2 - F3oreword

Contents Explore: Magazine about the road less travelled Pg. 4 - 13 Always Buzzing, Always Chinatown Take a walk and learn why this area is cherished by so many Singaporeans! Pg. 14 - 21 Big Trails and Thrills Little India! The distinctive Little India precinct melds the old with the new. Pg. 22 - 27 The Glam That Hasn’t Lost Its Shine The story of Kampong Glam began in 1819. Page 3 - Contents

PLACES T he Historic District of China- town comprises four distinct sub-districts: Telok Ayer, Kreta Ayer, Bukit Pasoh and Tanjong Pagar. Together with the other precincts south of the Singapore River, they made up what was known colloquially as the Greater Town (or Da Po) of Singapore. Because of its architectural, historical and social importance, the area was giv- en conservation status on 7 July 1989. Take a walk and learn why this area is cherished by so many Singaporeans! Source: URA Chinatown Trail Brochure 2017 Photos: Ruth Yong Top view of Temple Street Page 4 - Chinatown

BAulwzazysing, ChiAnlwaaystown Page 5 - Chinatown

PLACES Former Majestic Theater The origin of Chinatown is linked KRETA AYER 2. Former Majestic Theater to Sir Stamford Raffles. In 1822, he 80 Eu Tong Sen Street formed a Town Planning Committee The Malay name Kreta Ayer (or Niu This was originally a Cantonese to plan Singapore Town according to Che Shui) comes from the ox-drawn opera house built by philanthropist ethnic groups. The area south of the water carts that used to deliver Eu Tong Sen in 1927 for his wife Singapore River was allocated water to the area. In the 19th centu- after she was reportedly refused by sectors to Chinese and Indian ry, this predominantly Cantonese admittance to an opera performance immigrants of the same provincial area was known for round-the-clock elsewhere. A highlight of this Art origin and language groups. The entertainment with a concentration Deco building is its decorated façade Chinese immigrants came mostly of teahouses, opera theatres and of hand-painted tiles depicting opera from the south-eastern coastal prov- brothels. Today it is best known for characters and flying dragons. inces of China. its Chinese New Year and Mid-Au- tumn celebrations, street market and 3. Former S.I.T. Hokkiens formed the majority, fol- bustling atmosphere. Government Quarters lowed by the Teochews, Cantonese, 42 to 50 Mosque Street, 175 to 189 Hainanese, Hakkas and Foochows. 1. Former Great Southern Hotel New Bridge Road and 38 to 64 Up- The South Indians also found their 70 Eu Tong Sen Street per Cross Street niche in this area, though subse- This former hotel was designed by The predecessor to the Housing and quently the centre of Indian com- architectural firm Swan & Maclaren Development Board was the Singa- mercial and cultural life moved to and was once regarded as the Raffles pore Improvement Trust (SIT), set up Serangoon Road. Each group has Hotel of Chinatown. Popular with in 1927 by the colonial government left its mark on street names and high society including celebrities to solve Singapore’s chronic housing places of worship. from Hong Kong and China, it was problems. These four-storey rein- once the tallest building in the area forced concrete buildings were built and was the first Chinese hotel in in the 1930s to house Customs work- Singapore to boast a lift service. Page 6 - Chinatown

ers. Take a close look at the timber parapet behind each window; on each are two heart-shaped cut outs. 4. Jamae (Chulia) Mosque 218 South Bridge Road One of the oldest mosques in Singa- pore, Jamae Mosque was completed in 1835 by the Chulias who hailed from southern India’s Coromandel Coast. It boasts an eclectic mix of Chinese, Anglo-Indian and Malay ar- chitecture, of which the most signifi- cant feature is its South Indian style front entrance comprising of two minarets flanking a miniature palace façade. It was gazetted in 1974 as a National Monument. 5. Sri Mariamman Temple Former Coolie Quarters 242 South Bridge Road Established in 1827, this is Singa- “Hokkiens formed the majority, pore’s oldest Hindu temple. It was followed by the Teochews, founded by Narayana Pillay, the Cantonese, Hainanese, Tamil pioneer who accompanied Hakkas and Foochows.” Raffles to Singapore. The temple is dedicated to the goddess Mariamman and the original statue of the deity installed by Pillay still stands in its principal shrine. This temple gave name to Temple Street and Pagoda Street, and was gazetted as a National Monument in 1973. Sri Mariamman Temple 6. Former Coolie Quarters 37 Pagoda Street Most coolies came from southern China in search of better job prospects but upon arrival were sold off as indentured labourers. Those who were not immediately auctioned off were kept in cramped and sordid quarters. This shophouse is believed to be the former premises of Kwong Hup Yuen, one of the most infamous coolie firms. 7. Former Lai Chun Yuen 25 Trengganu Street Built in 1887, this three-storey former theatre build- ing with unique cantilevering wooden balconies was the centre of entertainment in Kreta Ayer until it was badly damaged during World War II. Its popularity was such that surrounding streets were colloquially named after the theatre itself; Smith Street was The- ater Street, Temple Street was Theater Rear Street, and Trengganu Street was Theater Side Street. Page 7 - Chinatown

PLACES TELOK AYER Its foundation plaque records that it 12. Thian Hock Keng was located on this site because of its 158 Telok Ayer Street Telok Ayer, Malay for Water Bay, is good feng shui (geomancy) properties This is one of Singapore’s oldest the oldest sub-district. It started to as it used to front the sea and behind and most important temple for develop in the 1820s and remained as it stands Ann Siang Hill. immigrants from southern China’s the key Chinese commercial district Fujian province. Completed in 1842 until the late 19th century. The popu- 11. Nagore Dargah Indian Mus- and standing on what used to be the lation in this area was predominantly lim Heritage Centre shoreline, it is dedicated to the Hokkien. The area is often associated 140 Telok Ayer Street worship of Ma Zu Po, the Goddess with the laid-back atmosphere of Ann Originally known as Shahul Hamid of the Sea. While most of the build- Siang Hill, and the religious buildings Durgha and dedicated to the mem- ing materials came from China, the along Telok Ayer Street. ory of a holy man, Shahul Hamid of temple incorporates cast-iron railings Nagore, the former shrine was built from Scotland and tiles from England 8. Eu Yan Sang by Chulias from southern India be- and Holland. In 1973, it was gazetted 267 to 271 South Bridge Road tween 1828 and 1830. On the upper as a National Monument. Its resto- Built in 1910, this is the first Eu Yan part of the façade are niches, where ration in 2001 gained an honorable Sang outlet in Singapore set up by oil lamps can be placed within them mention from UNESCO. Eu Tong Sen. Besides dealing in the to illuminate the building on festive retail of traditional Chinese medi- days. It was gazetted as a National cine, it used to offer money remit- Monument in 1974. tance services to China. The building was designed by Alfred Bidwell from the firm Swan & Maclaren. He was also responsible for the design of the Raffles Hotel and Victoria Memorial Hall. 9. Clan and Trade Associations Ann Siang Road and Club Street Clan and trade associations were important institutions for mutual assistance in 19th and early 20th century Singapore as they helped new immigrants from China settle down and looked after their welfare. Along Ann Siang Road and Club Street are numerous clan and trade associations where stepping into one, time seems to stand still. Some still retain their meeting halls filled with portraits of members from the past and centuryold furniture. Some of these associations can be found at 17 (Ching Yoon Wooi Kwoon) and 25 Ann Siang Road (Kwong Wai Siew Li Si She Shut), and 84 Club Street (Nam Sun Wui Kun). 10. Siang Cho Keong 66 Amoy Street This temple was completed in 1869 and built in the Hokkien style, where the ends of the curved roof ridge sweeps outwards like swallow tails and the clay roof tiles are not glazed. Temple Street’s Alley Page 8 - Chinatown

13. Al-Abrar Mosque Chop Kwong Onn Tong 192 Telok Ayer Street Also known as Kuchu Palli, Tamil for Mosque Hut, it was originally a thatched hut believed to have been erected not long after 1827. The pres- ent building was built between 1850 and 1855 and declared a National Monument in 1974. Unlike the Jamae Mosque along South Bridge Road, this mosque is able to conform to the street grid while facing Mecca. 14. Telok Ayer Chinese Methodist Church 235 Telok Ayer Street Designed by Swan & Maclaren and built by a French firm, Bross & Mogin in 1924, this was the first Chinese Methodist Church in Singapore. It features upturned roof eaves; a reference to traditional Chinese architecture and the community that it serves. In 1989, the church was “It started to develop in the 1820s and remained as the key Chinese commercial district until the late 19th century.” Eu Yang Sang Building Page 9 - Chinatown

PLACES gazetted as a National Monument. 16. Sri Layan Sithi Vinayagar entry is free. BUKIT PASOH Temple 18. Cundhi Gong 73 Keong Saik Road 13 Keong Saik Road Bukit Pasoh was developed at the This Hindu temple was built in 1925 This was founded in 1928 for the turn of the 20th century as an exten- by Nattukkottai Chettiars, a noted worship of the 18-arm Cundhi Bodhi- sion of the already densely populated money lending community from sattva. It is a purpose-built temple Telok Ayer and Kreta Ayer areas. Its Tamil Nadu and dedicated to Gane- built in the Nanyang style which is a name means Pot Hill in Malay, re- sha, the elephantheaded god. It is an hybrid between Chinese and shop- ferring to its origins as a place where important stop for the annual Silver house architecture. On the roof ridge, earthen pots were made. Its charm Chariot Procession where the deity cut porcelain pieces are used to form lies in its gently sloping and curving Murugan is taken on a procession dragons, phoenixes, birds and flow- streets fronted by shophouses that from the Sri Thendayuthapani Tem- ers. The timber trusses over the five- house a mixture of institutional and ple in Tank Road. The temple was foot way feature traditional paintings commercial activities. given the name Layan Sithi as it was and its exterior walls are adorned originally located at the old Sepoy with hand-painted tiles. 15. Poon Yue Association Lines where Indian soldiers, known 281 New Bridge Road as Sepoys, used to be housed. 19. Ee Hoe Hean Club The association was founded in 1879 43 Bukit Pasoh Road at Upper Cross Street with finan- 17. Kong Chow Wui Koon The club was founded in 1895 by a cial assistance from Hoo Ah Kay, a 321 New Bridge Road group of Hokkien community leaders well known community leader from This Cantonese clan association was for the wealthy Chinese elite. More Whampoa district in Guangdong established in 1839 at Upper Chin than a social and business club, its province. The association relocated Chew Street and moved in 1924 to members were actively involved in to New Bridge Road in 1917. The the present building, designed by the political development of China in building is a hybrid of Neo-Classi- Westerhout & Oman. During the the early 20th century. It supported cal and Art Deco styles which were Japanese Occupation, the custodi- the 1911 Xinhai Revolution which popular with Chinese developers ans volunteered the building as a overthrew the Qing Dynasty, leading in the past who wanted to project a clinic and hence its antique interiors to the establishment of the Republic modern image. To the Chinese, New remained intact. The association is of China. During World War II, it Bridge Road was colloquially referred well known for its lion dance troupe was the headquarters of the anti-Jap- to as Da Po Er Ma Lu, Mandarin for and martial arts. This is one of China- anese China Salvation Movement Greater Town’s Second Road. The town’s first community museums and in Southeast Asia. The ground floor first road referred to in this instance Pioneers’ Gallery is open for visit and was South Bridge Road. entry is free. People’s Park Complex’s Building Page 10 - Chinatown

20. Chin Kang Huay Kuan 29 Bukit Pasoh Road This association was established in 1918 by immigrants from Jinjiang County in southern Fujian, China. The current building contrasts with its ornately decorated neigh- bours. The use of straight lines, concrete ledges and mild steel framed windows is typical of the Modern style that was popular from the 1950s to the early 1970s. During World War II, the building was used by the Overseas Chinese General Mobilisation Council which helped the British in supplying labourers and volunteers for the defence of Singapore. “Its charm lies in its gently sloping and curving streets fronted by shophouses that house a mix- ture of institutional and commercial activities.” Chinatown Point Page 11 - Chinatown

PLACES TANGJONG PAGAR 21. Jinrikisha Station 1 Neil Road The building was built in 1903 by the Municipal Council as the administra- tion centre for rickshaws, a form of transportation imported from Japan via Shanghai in the 1880s. It is of the Edwardian style, where the exposed brickwork is contrasted with white plaster mouldings. Look out for the crest of the Municipal Council at the front of the building, featuring a lion standing on an island with a palm tree. Former Jing Hwa Cinema 22. Former Jing Hwa Cinema 1 Tanjong Pagar Road Together with the Majestic and the Oriental, Jing Hwa Cinema, built in 1958, was one of Chinatown’s three famous cinemas. It was designed by local architect Wong Foo Nam in the Modern style and was the first to have a basement carpark and extensive floor-to-ceiling windows. It is remembered fondly by many as the venue of romantic first dates and holiday treats. Jinriksha Station Page 12 - Chinatown

“Look out for the crest of the Municipal Council at the front of the building, fea- turing a lion standing on an island with a palm tree.” Page 13 - Chinatown

PLACES T he distinctive Little India pre- cinct melds the old with the new, hosting trades from the past beside modern business- es, old conserved shophouses next to high rise buildings. In this precinct, you can find flower garland vendors next to restaurants serving both traditional and fusion meals, small traditional business- es alongside multi-storey departmental stores. And these are just some ways in which the precinct retains aspects of its history within today’s modern context. Source: NHB Little India Trail Booklet 2018 Photos: Ruth Yong Page 14 - Little India

Bi&gTTrharilislls: LittleIndia! Little India Arcade Page 15 - Little India

PLACES It is interesting to note that Little India was never designated by Sir Stamford Raffles as an area for the Indian community. This is unlike Chinatown or Kampong Gelam, which were designated for the Chinese and the Malays respectively in the Raffles Town Plan of 1823. Before Little India got its current name in the 1970s-80s, it was just known as Serangoon, after one of the earliest roads in Singapore and indicated as the “road leading across the island” on an 1828 map. Through the Little India Heritage Trail, discover how this once swampy, rural area transformed itself into the colourful and cul- turally diverse precinct of today. This self-guided trail consists of a Trail Booklet, a Trail Map and onsite Trail Markers. The Trail Booklet provides a history of the area, as well as information about the places of heritage, social and cultural interest. The accompa- nying Trail Map offers three thematic sub-trails with translations in Mandarin, Malay and Tamil while the Trail Markers showcase old photographs of the site along with further information. We hope you enjoy your journey! Tekka Centre Page 16 - Little India

TRAIL 1: SERANGOON IN you can also spot the distinctive shape THE 1900s of the new KK Women’s and Children’s 40 Minutes Hospital building. The early 20th century was a defining If you are hungry or wish to rest your period that shaped today’s Little India as feet, walk straight down to Tekka Centre, migrants from India, China and Britain which is the new incarnation of the Tekka settled in the area and established a di- Market that was once located across versity of trades and institutions. Follow the road and considered the “people’s this trail and explore the rich history of market”. Here you can enjoy local hawker the Little India precinct. fare, or purchase fresh meat to cook at home. Then it’s a short walk to Little Begin your journey at the Indian Her- India MRT station for a ride home. itage Centre and obtain an overview of the history of the Indian community in Singapore. Then walk down Serangoon Road and cross over to Kerbau Road, whose name refers to the buffaloes that were kept here in the 1900s. Walking along this road, you will come across the colourful Former House of Tan Teng Niah. The only remaining Chinese villa in Little India, this is a legacy of the time when small Chinese cottage indus- tries thrived alongside the Indian-domi- nated cattle trade in this area. Turn around and walk towards Belilios “It is interesting to note that Little Lane where you will spot the large mural India was never designated by Sir Traditional Trades of Little India by Stamford Raffles as an area for Psyfool. Continue towards Belilios Road the Indian community.” and turn right to the Sri Veeramaka- liamman Temple which was built as a shrine by Tamil workers from the lime pits in this area. From here, turn left onto Serangoon Road and left again onto Race Course Lane. At Race Course Lane, you will encounter a number of Chinese Clan Associations which were established to provide social and economic support for Chinese im- migrants from the same clans. Turn left onto Race Course Road and you will come across the Foochow Methodist Church at the corner of Rotan Lane. The church was established in 1897 as a Christian mis- sion for working class immigrants from Foochow, China, such as rickshaw pullers and coolies. Continuing along Race Course Road, keep a lookout on the left for a small unnamed street where you will encounter the origins of this road name in the form of a mural entitled A Ride Through Race Course Road by Jaxton Su. The Former Racecourse was at the location of the cur- rent Farrer Park Field just opposite. Along Hampshire Road beside the field, you will see the Former Kandang Kerbau Hospital (now the Land Transport Au- thority building) which served as general hospital in the 1900s. In the background, Indian Heritage Centre’s carved wood at the entrance Page 17 - Little India

PLACES TRAIL 2: WALK OF FAITHS 1 Hour The Little India precinct contains a great Along the same road, you will encounter number and diversity of religious spaces. yet another National Monument, the Sri These institutions span across all the Srinivasa Perumal Temple, with its intri- major ethnic and religious groups in Sin- cately carved gopuram (entrance tower) gapore. This trail provides insights into depicting a story from Hindu mythology. different religious spaces, architecture Further down the road is the Sri Vadapa- and practices found in Singapore. thira Kaliamman Temple with its stepped (Note: Most of these institutions are open vimana (pyramid-shape tower over the to the public but be sure to follow any main shrine) adorned with Hindu deities. instructions on appropriate behaviour and clothing.) Next head up Beatty Road on to Race Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple Course Road to view two Buddhist tem- Start off at the beautiful Abdul Gafoor ples built in a completely different style. Mosque at Dunlop Street which is one The Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya Temple, of Singapore’s oldest mosques and a popularly known as the “Temple of a National Monument. You may wish to Thousand Lights”, houses a monumental enter the mosque for a visit and if so, do 15-metre tall Buddha statue while the remember to dress respectfully and take Leong San See Temple, meaning “Dragon off your shoes. Mountain Temple”, is dedicated to Guan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy. From here, head down Perak Road to the Anglican Church of the True Light which “This trail provides insights into different catered mainly to Chinese trishaw riders religious spaces, architecture and during its beginnings. At the end of practices found in Singapore.” Perak Road, turn left onto Upper Weld Road and then right to Kampong Kapor Road. Here you will see the ar- chitecturally different Kampong Kapor Methodist Church which started around the same time but catered to the Straits Chinese or Peranakans. Walk up Veerasamy Road and across Seran- goon Road to the Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple which was origi- nally built as a shrine by Tamil workers from the lime pits in this area. Another Hindu temple and the only North Indi- an temple in Singapore, the Shree Lakshmina- rayan Temple is located down the next street at Chander Road. Then venture up Rotan Lane to view the Foo- chow Methodist Church which developed from a mission started in 1897 for working class immi- grants from Foochow, China. After this, walk back down to Serangoon Road and head towards the Angullia Mosque to take a look at its conserved 19th century entrance gatehouse. Beautiful patterns on Shree Lakshminarayan Temple Page 18 - Little India

Mural: Traditional Trades of Little India by Psyfool along Bellios Lane Page 19 - Little India

PLACES Kerbau Road: Towards to Komala’s Vegetarian Restaurant TRAIL 3: SHOP TILL YOU DROP! 30 Minutes (not inclusive of shopping time) Little India is home to many traditional businesses that offer experiences that cannot be found elsewhere in Singapore. This trail offers a chance to try authentic Indian food, purchase traditional clothing and hunt for bargains at various shops in this area. Start along Campbell Lane and experience the kaleidoscope of sights, sounds and smells along this street. You can visit the Little India Arcade and enjoy some Indian sweets or have a henna design drawn on your hands. Or you can head to the Jothi Store & Flower Shop where locals shop for everyday Indian goods ranging from in- cense sticks to copper utensils. One street down at Dunlop Street is Haniffa Textiles which is famous for its saris and Indian clothing, and further down Serangoon Road is where you will find Komala Vilas, an Indian vegetarian fast-food restaurant established in 1947. Try their refresh- ing lassi or have a meal here if you’re hungry! After your break, walk down the five-foot way (or covered pedestrian walkway) along Serangoon Road and enjoy a variety of traditional and modern shops selling every- thing from clothes to knick-knacks. Feel free to stop and pick up a bargain or just window-shop along this stretch. Ahead you will see the expansive Mustafa Centre, Singapore’s first 24-hour depart- ment store which offers everything from diamonds, watches, electronics, clothing, confectionery and fresh foods. Shop to your heart’s content here, and when you start to feel tired, head across the road to Ananda Bhavan, Singapore’s oldest Indian vegetari- an restaurant, for a snack or meal. Smiling buddha hiding in the corner Page 20 - Little India

“This trail offers a chance to try au- thentic Indian food, purchase traditional clothing and hunt for bargains at various shops in this area.” Campbell Lane: Jothi Flower Shop Page 21 - Little India

PLACES ITtshSehGilHnaamesnT’ht aLtost Page 22 - Kampong Glam

T he story of Kampong Glam began in 1819 when Sir Stamford Raffles (1781–1826) established a treaty between the British East India Company, Temenggong Ab- dul Rahman (d. 1825) and Sultan Hussein (1776–1835) to set up a trading post in Singapore. Source: NHB Kampong Glam Trail 3 Brochure Photos: Ruth Yong Malay Heritage Centre Page 23 - Kampong Glam

PLACES Did you know that the stretch of Bus- “It was where many sorah Street near Masjid Sultan was once diverse communities, such as the known as Kampong Kaji (Pilgrim Village) Javanese, Sumatrans, Baweanese, and the stretch nearer Beach Road was Banjarese, Arabs, Chinese Kampong Tembaga (Copper Village)? and Indians once Or that Arab Street was called Jawa Koi called home.” (Java Street) by the Chinese and Pooka- dai sadakku (flower street) by the Tamils? Sultan Gate was lined with black- smiths and Baghdad Street with diamond craftsmen and traders. Where a car park now stands along Kandahar Street, there was the Pondok Java which housed Javanese migrants and was famed for the Javanese theatre and arts performances it used to host. These are just some of the stories behind Sultan Mosque (Masjid Sultan) Kampong Glam’s streets and lanes. Steeped in history, culture and memories, Kampong Glam is one of Singapore’s most colourful districts. It was where the Malay royalty once resided, and where one of the most significant and important mosques in the country, Mas- jid Sultan, is located. It was where many diverse communities, such as the Java- nese, Sumatrans, Baweanese, Banjarese, Arabs, Chinese and Indians once called home. Though Kampong Glam is no longer a residential area today, these communities have left their mark in dif- ferent ways, from the buildings in the area and long-time businesses to vernacular place names. MALAY HERITAGE CENTRE 85 Sultan Gate The building housing the centre was once William Butterworth (1801– 1856) 20th century, it even housed a club, Kota the residence of Malay royalty in Singa- negotiated a treaty between Tunku Ali Raja Club, which regularly organised pore and also referred to as “Istana Kam- and Ibrahim (d. 1865), son of the late leisure activities for the community in pong Gelam” (Kampong Gelam Palace). Temenggong. Ali acquired the title of Sul- Kampong Glam. It was preceded by at least two istana tan and received a fixed allowance from buildings which were part of a larger the government, while acknowledging In 1999, the government announced walled compound that has been referred Ibrahim as the ruler of Johor with the ex- plans to develop a Malay Heritage Centre, to as the kota raja (royal citadel). ception of Muar. When Sultan Ali passed which would involve conserving and away in 1877, his eldest son, Tungku redeveloping Istana Kampong Glam The first istana in the compound, a large Alam (d. 1891), was not recognised by and the adjacent Gedung Kuning. This timber palace with attap roofs, was the British as Sultan. However, the Malay required the residents to relocate and a completed in 1819. Sultan Hussein stayed community organised a ceremony in 1879 new scheme of payment to the beneficia- there for some years before moving to proclaiming him as “Sultan Ala’u’din ries was introduced. Restoration works Melaka, where he passed away in 1835. Alam Shah al Mulak (Ruler of) Johore were undertaken and the Malay Heritage His son, Tunku Ali (1825–1877) returned and Muar”. Centre opened in June 2005. Further to Singapore in 1840 and commissioned renovations were carried out between the current building, which combines In 1897, the court decided in a dispute 2011 and 2012 and the redeveloped traditional Malay motifs with the Pal- between members of the royal family centre was launched in September 2012 ladian style – a style derived from the that the Kampong Glam property be- by the Prime Minister of Singapore, Mr architecture of Italian architect Andrea longed to the Crown. An ordinance was Lee Hsien Loong. Palladio (1508-1580) which was popular then enacted by the British government in England in the 18th and 19th centuries. in 1904 to provide an incomefor Sultan For years, the British refused to ac- Hussein’s descendants. The building knowledge Tunku Ali as sultan. In 1855, continued to serve as a residence for the the Governor of the Straits Settlements family. For a period of time during the Page 24 - Kampong Glam

Malay Heritage Centre’s Entrance Exhibit outside Malay Heritage Centre Lady in the Malay Heritage Centre Cat lazing around Kampong Glam Page 25 - Kampong Glam

PLACES ARAB STREET Arab Street is one of the few streets in Kampong Glam that has retained its orig- inal name from the early 1800s. It was probably named as such as the area was designated for the Arab community in the 1822 town plan of Singapore. The community here, however, has always been diverse. A busy commercial area, Arab Street has been attracting trad- ers and entrepreneurs from places such as present-day Indonesia, India, China and the Middle East since its early days. They started businesses ranging from eating houses, rattan shops and gold- smiths to textile shops, money changers, bookshops and printing presses. Today, a number of shops on this street, such as H. Hashim bin H. Abdullah, a bookstore opened in the early 1900s, are still run by the descendants of pioneers who came here decades ago. To locals, this road was more common- ly referred to as Kampong Java by the Malays or Jawa koi (Java Street) by the Chinese. For a long time, Arab Street was largely populated by the Javanese. They were engaged in various occupations such as running eating houses and food stalls, and selling goods such as fruit and Javanese leaf cigarettes. Javanese women also set up stalls to sell flowers along the five foot way, giving rise to the Tamil nickname, pookadei sadakku (flower street). Over time, however, the Javanese presence gradually diminished in this area due to factors such as the redevel- opment of Kampong Glam, leading to resettlement of the original residents. Silk Studio: Lady serving her customer “They started businesses rang- ing from eating houses, rattan shops and gold- smiths to textile shops, money changers, bookshops and printing presses.” Insects keychains on sale Street art along the streets of Kampong Glam Page 26 - Kampong Glam

Street art: El Vuelo del Cálao by Jaba along Haji Lane Statues on the rooftop along Haji Lane Lady taking a break along Haji lane Page 27 - Kampong Glam

Ruth Yong Jing Jing P2008703 DMAD/FT/1B/03