OVER BAGAN

BAGAN DAVID ST LOH JAFFEE YEE

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DAVID ST LOH photographer JAFFEE YEE PUBLISHER JIM GOODMAN WRITER ELATON PUBLISHING

Photographs copyright © 2020 David ST Loh PUBLISHER/ EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Text copyright © 2020 Jim Goodman Jaffee Yee Yeow Fei Co-published by: Knowledge Media Group Limited AUTHOR & PHOTOGRAPHER P O Box 188 Chiang Rai 57000 David ST Loh Thailand WRITER Elaton Publishing Suite 318, MBE Straits Quay Jim Goodman 3G-G-3B Straits Quay Jalan Seri Tanjung Pinang 1 PROJECT DIRECTOR 0470 Tanjong Tokong Penang Rebecca Lee Malaysia ART DIRECTOR All rights reserved. This book, or parts thereof, may not be reproduced in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, Allie Hill recording or any information storage and retrieval system now known or to be invented, without written permission from the publisher and copyright Printed by holders. The authors’ moral rights have been asserted. The Phoenix Press Sdn Bhd No. 6 Lebuh Gereja 10200 Penang Malaysia Printed in Malaysia National Library of Thailand Cataloguing in Publication Data Yee, Jaffee. Over Bagan/Jaffee Yee ISBN XXX-XXX-XXXXX-X-X (X) 1. Bagan (Myanmar) Description and travel. 2. Tourism–Myanmar–Bagan 3. Photography–Myanmar–Bagan. Perpustakaan Negara Malaysia Cataloguing in Publication Data Loh, David S. T. Over Bagan / David ST Loh. ISBN XXX-XXX-XXXXX-X-X (X) 1. Bagan (Myanmar) Description and travel. 2. Tourism–Myanmar–Bagan 3. Photography–Myanmar–Bagan. I. Title. XXX.XXXX Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat.

CONTENTS 00 Publisher’s Message 00 BAGAN’S PAST GLORIES 00 Bagan Then and Now Where is Bagan How to Get There What to See and How to See Bagan 00 THE TOP MONUMENTS Ananda Temple Dhammayangyi Temple Shwezigon Pagoda Thatbyinnyu Temple Gawdawpalin Temple Sulamani Temple Htilominlo Temple Dhammayazika Pagoda Shwesandaw Pagoda Mahabodhi Temple 00 EXTRAVAGANT EXPERIENCES Ballooning: Once in a Lifetime Experience The Golden Moments: Spectacular Sunrise & Sunset Luxury River Cruises: Arriving in Style 00 BEYOND BAGAN Mt Popa Salay 00 THE BEST OF BAGAN Best Hotels Best Restaurants Best Buy 00 Acknowledgements



GREETINGS FROM THE PUBLISHER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF It seems like it was only yesterday when I first set foot in enjoyable activity was to watch the spectacular sunset over Bagan, then known as Pagan, more than 45 years ago and the vast plain from one of the tallest stupas. Climbing the just before the major earthquake that struck the area. I was monuments unfortunately, is no longer allowed after Bagan privileged to be among the very few tourists who were the became a UNESCO World Heritage site in July 2019. Most first to ever visit this fascinating historic town. tourists today enjoy watching the sunset from chartered boats on the Ayeyarwady River with a glass of Myanmar beer Most people could only dream of a chance to visit as a perfect sundowner or on hillock mounds at strategic Myanmar or Burma as it was known then, let alone a trip locations. But I still recall enjoying those golden magical to remote Bagan. The country was basically shuttered after moments by the river from this same guest house that I first the military coup in 1962. I was, however, fortunate to make stayed in decades earlier, which has since been rebranded as trips into Burma as I was on routine business trips, selling an upscale resort. academic books to the military junta, as a representative of CBS International Publishing (a division of CBS Inc, New OVER BAGAN is the first in a series of books my York). After business trips were conducted, I would often partner, David ST Loh, and I plan to produce covering make side trips to explore Bagan and Mandalay Myanmar and other Asean countries, in the next few years. OVER BAGAN is designed as a golden souvenir for visitors, As there was no mass tourism then, the only place to Myanmar tourism stakeholders and corporations. This book stay in Bagan was in the government-owned Thiripyitsaya showcases unique and stunning aerial photos by award- Guest House that is close to some important pagodas and winning photojournalist David ST Loh and texts by veteran temples. My mode of transport to explore the temples and professional travel guide writer Jim Goodman. monuments in Bagan was in the back of a bullock cart! The tour was led by a Japanese speaking tour guide assigned by Selective images published are all taken from a very the ruling government. We communicated in Japanese, the unique perspective at different hours of the day and will serve only common language we shared. to remind visitors of the experience and charms of Bagan and to entice those who have yet to visit. It is an ideal and Besides capturing images of the ruins on my memorable gift to take home to share your experience of Kodakchrome transparencies, viewing ancient mural Bagan with family and friends. paintings on the walls of deserted monuments, the most JAFFEE YEE YEOW-FEI Publisher & Editor-in-Chief

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The Past Glories

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THE PAST GLORIES Before the birth of Bagan, the Ayeryawaddy Valley was Piety had become a problem. Kings and nobles granted the site of several city-states of the Pyu people, heavily much of the agricultural land to temples and monasteries, influenced by their trade links with India. Their religious which were exempt from taxation. Falling revenues meant tradition encompassed both Theravada and Mahayana less money for state administration, especially in the Buddhism, plus Tantra, Hindu cults of Shiva and Vishnu, furthest away border provinces, for building canals to open as well as the indigenous spirit (nat) beliefs. Wars with its new farmland, and to equip the army. The religious spirit, neighbor Nanzhao, in contemporary Yunnan, China, from which had inspired so much architectural grandeur, was 750-830, destroyed Pyu political power. In this vacuum rose undermining the state. the Kingdom of Bagan, the first state founded by Burmese Conflict began in the south and Bagan lost territory people, in the mid- to late 9th century. to Arakan and Martaban. Later in the 13th century Bagan faced Mongol invaders. While the Mongols apparently never Within two centuries Bagan had extended its control occupied the city itself (they usually destroyed every city they over the whole Ayeryawaddy Valley and its periphery. Under captured), their campaigns successfully King Anawrahta, who ascended in 1044, the state became terminated Bagan’s power. By 1287 Bagan’s an empire. He extended the rice cultivation area, especially empire was history and its population to the east, with weirs and canals, which encouraged the reduced to several thousand. The Though it immigration of ever more farmers. He made Theravada Buddhism the state religion, though tolerated other beliefs, Myinsaing Kingdom to the south became was no longer and sponsored the formation of a script for the Burmese the pre-eminent state in the country, important language. though neither it nor any of its successors for the next few centuries held sway over as politically, Bagan His able successors Kyanzittha (1081-1112), who patronized Mon scholars and artisans, and Alaungsithi much of Myanmar as Bagan had. continued to (1112-1167), who constructed more irrigation systems and Though it was no longer important standardized weights and measures, presided over a long politically, Bagan continued to attract attract pilgrims period of peace and prosperity. The empire had no real pilgrims from all over the country. They from all over rivals and grew quite wealthy. And with both kings and commoners religiously pious, much of that wealth became concentrated on Ananda Pahto, Shwezigon, the country. devoted to building temples and pagodas. Their palaces, Sulamani, Htilominlo and Dhammayazika. houses and walls have disappeared, but their spectacular The other monuments fell into decline. array of religious monuments remains as a legacy that draws When the Konbaung Dynasty (1752- visitors from all over the world. 1885) took control of Burma, holding territory even greater than the Bagan Empire, its government sponsored many Bagan reached the zenith of its prestige and power in restorations in Bagan, though not necessarily following the the late 12th and early 13th centuries, under Kings Narapati originals. Nevertheless, the ancient site’s prestige, with its Sithu (1174-1211) and Htilominlo (1211-1235). These importance to Burmese culture, endured. rulers enlarged the borders, prevented Khmer expansion It still attracted Burmese pilgrims throughout the out of central western Thailand, codified the law, established colonial period and in the years after independence. From a standing army and extended Burmese cultural influence the beginning of the 21st century tourism to Bagan began beyond its boundaries. The capital’s population then is accelerating and today it is one of Myanmar’s premier estimated as anywhere from 50,000 to 200,000. Yet this attractions. heyday was not to last much longer.

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BaganThen & Now

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BAGAN THEN & NOW For a long time after independence the government severely Temple. Most extant murals date back to the Early Period, restricted tourism to the country, at first a single day and while those gracing the walls of Ananda Ok Kyaug and Updi later a maximum of one week. This didn’t give visitors much Thein are from the 17-18th centuries. time to appreciate Bagan. That has changed in recent decades Some of these murals reach so high up to and on with longer visas and fewer restrictions. Bagan tourism has the ceiling it’s difficult to see details of the imagery. The accelerated since the start of the 21st century with easier restorations are always incomplete and pictures on parts of access and an increase in accommodations. Nowadays it is the walls are very faint and faded. Yet great portions are in high on the list of attractions to enjoy. good shape, well lit by natural light and depict a variety of subjects. You’ll see large images of deities and demons and In July 2019 UNESCO finally granted Bagan the award of scenes of Buddhist mythology. And you will notice a great a World Heritage Site. Long before the advent of international number of secular themes—vignettes of princes meeting tourism, Burmese pilgrims from all over the country have advisors, people walking in groups, socializing in their been visiting Bagan. The Ananda, Sulamani and Htilominlo houses and performing daily chores. The Temples and the Shwezigon and Dhammayazika Pagodas murals give you insight into the life of the were the most popular sites. Modern day pilgrims have times the temples were built. added another ambition of making the rounds of historic Most of the original sculptures that Bagan’s four corner pagodas—Shwezigon, Laukananda, enhanced the exterior temple walls, In July 2019 Tuyintaung and Tankyitaung—in a single morning. These all gateways and stupa bases have disappeared. UNESCO finally date to the 11th century and contain replicas of the Buddha’s But many of the Buddha images in the granted Bagan Tooth Relic from Sri Lanka and so devotees consider the feat especially meritorious. interior and stone-carved panels on the the award of outside have survived, as well as a few Most of Bagan’s monuments are stupas, alone or in guardian statues. Those at Dhammayazika a World groups. Some were originally within temple compounds, but and Abeyodana are in the best condition, Heritage Site. only the foundations of those have survived. Occasionally one can still see decorations around the base, like sculptured, depicting deities, mythological animals, glazed terracotta plaques that depict scenes from the Jataka dancing asparas and crocodile-headed Tales, the lives of previous incarnations of the Buddha. draining pipes. Dhammayazika Pagoda also features a set of high relief carved plaques of scenes from Temples comprise a large percentage of the extant the Jataka Tales. An even more impressive set, decorating ruins, in different sizes, shapes and conditions. Smaller the base, sides and terraces of the building, enhances the ones are more like shrines, built without any entrance going attraction of Ananda Temple. inside, little embellishment of the building with sculptures, Some of the bigger temples have external or internal other than the simplest ornamental frieze. Others stand staircases where you could climb up for a broader view of bigger than one storey, on multi-tiered bases, crowned the plain. These became favorite sunrise/sunset viewing by a large stupa. Several of these form the list of major venues. Unfortunately, now visitors are not allowed up the tourist attractions and a few feature some of the original monuments. However, Bagan is a wide plain, studded with carved wall plaques and statues, like at Ananda Pahto and monuments, with plenty of open spaces enabling a long Dhammayazika. The interiors of some temples, on the walls view of the scene. Alternatively, one can take the expensive enclosing the space where the original Buddha image stood, balloon ride for sunrise. For sunset, you can take the very feature painted color wall murals. Most themes, of course, moderately priced boat cruise. Preceded by a stop in a local deal with religious mythology, but the set will also include teashop, the boat cruises along the river with good views panels depicting everyday secular life. UNESCO sponsored across the plain while you watch the colors change and the restoration of much of the mural legacy. The largest and best sun drop behind the distant mountains. result of that project is the set on the walls of Abeyodano

The Top Monuments





Ananda Temple Built in 1105 under the reign of Kyanzittha under the direction of Indian architects, the Ananda Temple has a cruciform layout with several terraces, topped by a pagoda. Terracotta plaques depicting scenes from the Jataka Tales (previous lives of the Buddha) decorate the base, sides and terraces. Four standing Buddhas in the interior, carved from teakwood and covered in gold leaf, face the four cardinal directions. The ones facing north and south are the originals, while the other two are recent replacements after the originals were destroyed by fire. The interior of the complex also contains 1500 stone carvings, which are largely worn and unclear, as well as wall paintings in the prayer halls. The latter have been mostly whitewashed, but some were restored by the Department of Archaeology, especially in the eastern devotional hall. According to legend, King Kyanzittha commissioned eight monks to build the temple to resemble the one they had graphically described in the Himalayas where they had meditated. The king was so impressed by the unique result that he had them killed so that they could not make another one like it anywhere. The temple suffered severe damage in the 1975 earthquake but was restored and has been well maintained since then. In 1990 its spires were gilded. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eius tempor incididunt ut labore



Shwezigon Pagoda Shwezigon Pagoda’s construction began during the reign deified nats paying homage to the relics. The pagoda houses of Anawrahta and was completed by his son Kyanzittha in four large bronze standing Buddha images and several 1086. It was originally built to house a bone and tooth of the Buddha footprints, as well as lion-like guardian statues at the Buddha, though the relics have since been stolen. According entrance. to legend, Anawrahta dispatched a white elephant carrying the relics, intending to build the pagoda wherever the Shwezigon suffered severe damage in the 1975 elephant stopped. This turned out to be a dune by Nyaung-u earthquake and during its renovation was strengthened with village, near Bagan. It served as one of the city’s four corner a covering of over 30,000 copper plates donated by local and pagodas. international devotees. The dome’s gilding took place in 1983-84, but the lower level terraces are still in their original Its bell-shaped stupa became the prototype for others in form. Myanmar. It surmounts five terraces, with glazed terracotta tiles of Jataka Tales scenes surrounding three of them. It Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eius also has a shrine on the outer limits holding images of 37 tempor incididunt ut labore

Extravagant Experiences Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam.



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BeyondBagan

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The Best of Bagan

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