Arabian Moda Autumn-Winter 2021-22

arabianmoda.com|53 PhotosCourtesy:UlyanaSergeenko

Julien Fournié Breakingthecouturecodesandtaking digitalfashionweekstothenextlevel Whilefashionweekshaveturnedtodigitalplatformssince2020, FrenchdesignerJulienFournié,afirm believerthathautecoutureis aboutdreaming,hasre-imaginedanupgradedwebexperience. Arevoltandanextrovertedartist,Fourniéhasgonewherenocoutu- rierhasgonebeforethroughmerginghautecouturewithvideo gamesviahispartnershipwiththeleadingChinesemultinational technologyconglomerateTencentanditspopularPUBG Mobile game. PhotosCourtesy:JulienFournié A M:Julien,youhavedecidedtomixhautecouture withgaming,whyso? Videogamescelebrateindividualityandthefreedom ofchoosingwhoyoucouldbeinanidealworld.I’vealwaysloved theaestheticsofgamingandIlookedatthepastdecadeandchose 12charactersthatimpressedmethemost.Thegamingindustry hasreachedbillionsofpeopleandit’samethodtoredefinemy workandgivecoutureayoungerfeel.It’salsonotsonewtome asIhavealreadyworkedwithAppleandDassaultSystèmes, andmoresurprisesareinthemaking. “I’veresortedtothegamingindustrybecauseit AM:Sotellusallaboutyourrecentcollectionthatis allowsusasindividualstocreateasecretidentity,an heavilyinfluencedbyvideogames? opportunitytobewhoeverwewanttobe,nomatter It’scalledtheFirstSquadcollectionanditrevolvesaround creatingcharactersoralteregos.Wehavethegangster,the whoweare,andwherewecomefrom.” Hollywoodstar,thesuperhero,thewizardandhisinfa- mouswhiterabbit,awarrior,afighterandmore.Some ofthelookswereinspiredbywar,thestreetsandotherby theredcarpet.It’samélangeofuniversesinonediverse collection.Itisaddressedtorealpeople,peopleyousee everydayandIhaveintendedtomixmasculineandfemi- ninecodes. arabianmoda.com|54

AM:Sohow wouldyoudescribeyour PhotosCourtesy:JulienFournié fashionphilosophy? Everycollectionisaboutfindingyour innerlegend.I’vealwaysbeeninspired bycinemaandshowinglessskinwhile celebratingawoman’sfigure.Iwork withclientswhoareseekingawardrobe andnotjustaone-shotlook. AM:AsyouareParis-based,whydoyouthink thiscityistheultimatefashionandcouture capital? WhenyoubuyFrenchhautecoutureit’slike youarepurchasingapieceofFrenchhistory. Parisisthebattlegroundforhigh-endfashion, it’sherewherefashiondesignersareworking hardtowinoverthemedia’sattentionandclients. It’sthecitywherealltheactionistakingplace. AM:Finally,what’syourtakeonanotherindus- trytrendthatissustainablefashion? Ithinkhautecoutureissustainable.Forinstance,I useeco-responsiblematerials,madeinFrance andthatfollow thestrictrulesandregula- tionsofmycountry.Ialsoemployupcy- clingtechniquesbyusingsilksandbut- tonsfromateliersthatwerelostintime and transformed into antiquepieces. Yeshautecoutureisexpensive,butit’sa sectorthatemploystremendouspeople,en- couragesourartisans,highlightsourlocaltalents and preservesthecontinuation oftheFrench savoir-faire. arabianmoda.com|55

Midnightbluehandbagingenuine alligator,Glacierblue handbaginsuedecalfskinwithgenuine alligatorskinflapand Ceruleanbluepythonhandbag. Lightningtrenchcoatin photo-reflectivetechnicalfabricworn withacloudgreypetticoatembellished withlightning photo-reflectivetechnicalribbons, JulienFourniéHauteCouture. FirstStorm Photographer:DavidTenori-ArtDirector/Stylist:VictorConcepto-Filmmaker:MaxenceGautierassistedbyAnotineL’ Hopital-MakeupArtist:MaudeGobet-HairStylist:VictorRossi-Models:KouklaLapidusandMillaLapidus(Premium Models)- Location:HotelLaClefTourEiffelParis arabianmoda.com|56

GoldenringwithtourmalineandTahiti pearl,ThierryVendome.Pinkhandbag inplungedlambskinwithmetallic embroidery.Palepinkacademician riding-coatinsilkcrepewithmetal embroideredbrandenburgswornwith penciltrousersingreywool, JulienFourniéHauteCouture. arabianmoda.com|57



SummerBambooEarringsinpink sapphires,yellow andwhite diamonds,paraibatourmaline, tsavoritesandwhite, yellow androsegold, AnnaHuHauteJoaillerie. Thunderstorm coatdressinnightblue doublewoolcrepewithcollarlapels andcuffsinskybluesilkmoire embroideredwithcrystaldrops, JulienFourniéHauteCouture. arabianmoda.com|59





by,hehadthedelicacy to think about his formeremployees.This tomeproves,morethan anything else,thathe wasagreatman. AM: You have wit- nessedwhatisknown PhotosCourtesy:RenaudPellegrino asthegolden ageof fashion.Inyouropin- ionwhatmadethisera sospecial? Atthetimetherewas realenthusiasm forev- erything creative.The designerswere simply masterminds.Theclien- telewasthere;women dressedupandwentout.Therewasundoubtedlyan AM:WhatisyourvisionforPellegrinoParisinthe easeoflife,whichunfortunately,nolongerexists.The upcomingyears? erawasquicktofollow thismovementofconstant Ithinkabrandconstantlywantstogrowandexpandits newness,toalwayscreateandgofurther.Todaywedo awareness.Wearefortunatetohaveasuperbclientele notcreateanymore,everythingisaquestionofmoney andwewouldliketobeabletoattractanewgeneration andaraceforprofitability. whoisn’tacquaintedwithourstoryandtoeventually AM:Yourcouturebagshavealwaysbeensoelegant openPellegrinoParisstoresininternationalcapitals. yetinnovative.Howisyourcreativeprocesslike? AM:Afteralltheseyearsofexperience,whatisa Couturerequirestheidealizationofanattitudeandan pieceofadviceyouwouldgivetoanupandcoming accessorycanprovokethat.Abagcanbesuitablefor designer? allwomen,andthisiswhatpleasesmebecauseele- Perseverance.Nevergetdiscouraged,reflect,anddon't ganceisnotaboutbodyorshape.Eleganceisinthe beafraidtospeakup.Butthekeywordaboveallis: detailandPellegrinobagsareveryrichindetails. WORK. arabianmoda.com|62



AM:Wouldyousayitwasaplannedobjective? AM:Whatisan advice you would give to Yesindeed,itwasagoalIsettomyselfandthatbecome up-and-comingdesigners? adream cometrue.Africaneededrepresentationinthe Itisacomplicatedindustry,wedon’tdofashionif smallluxuriouscircleofcouture.Ittookseveraldecades foroneAfricantomakeittothegroup,knowingthatthe wearenotpassionateaboutit.If Africancontinenthasinspiredallthelegendaryfashion youcanstudyfashiondon’t designerssinceacenturyandmore. hesitatetodothat,youneedto trainalotbecausetheindustry AM:Andwhatdidthisnewtitleaddtoyourcareer? isbecomingmoreandmore Itopenedthedoorsnotonlytomyself,butalsotoAfrican competitive.Patienceisalsoa fashioningeneral.Itwasafirststepintheeyesofthe worldtoshowthetextileandtalentscomingformAfrica. virtue… nothingcomessoeasily! Inowhaveabiggernetworkandhavegainedtremendous presscoverage,interviewsandeditorialsfromhigh-end fashionpublicationsindifferentmarkets. AM:Whatinspiresyouasyoustartpreparing anewcollection? Africaofcourse,aswellasmyhomeland; Cameron.My childhood,traveling and Parismycitybyadoption,evenbooks couldinspireme. AM:Andhowdoyoubalancebe- PhotosCourtesy:ImaneAyissi tweenyourAfricanheritageand stayingawayfrom folkloricde- signs? Weareinaworldwherepeople liketomixculturesandwomen now wanttomodernizetheir looks.Thisdoesn’tmeanre- movingtheidentityfactor, butjustminimizingthedis- guise element,as the woman becomes moreofacitizen oftheworld. arabianmoda.com|64

TheNEWCouturePhotographer:ElliIoannouassistedbyGabrielleDenisse-ArtDirector/Stylist:VictorConcepto-Filmmaker: NicholasKent-Makeup&HairArtist:IsabelleWilmot-Model:Kenza(SelectModelParis)- Location:Paris ImaneAyissi Sheathdressindupionsilkembroidered withhanddyedflowers andSwarovskicrystals, ImaneAyissiCouture. International,multi-ethnical& sustainable thisisthenewageofcouture. arabianmoda.com|65

Lorem Ipsum RonaldvanderKemp Satinandsuedecorsetgown withreversedsideslitdetails, RonaldvanderKempCouture. arabianmoda.com|66

RahulMishra 3Dhand-embroidered shortdress, RahulMishraCouture. arabianmoda.com|67



PhotosCourtesy:Chaumet TorsadedeChaumet follows the motifs wrappingtheVendôme Columnwhereitshistori- calflagshipstoreislocated inParis.Themovementis ongoing,a twistisdelicate withpolishedandperfectlycut stonesand flaming rubies.The signaturepieceisatiaraofcurved linesadornedwithwhitediamonds,an oddtoChaumet’smostloyalclientofall time,EmpressJoséphine. arabianmoda.com|69







PhotosCourtesy:DeBeers TheReflectionsofNaturehighjewelrycollec- tionbyDeBeersisaninvitationtoimaginary andunordinaryvoyages.Oneofwhichistothe Namibiandesertofcurvydunes,withpieces inspiredbythenaturalmotifsofthesand andhavingyellowdiamondsatthecenter oftheNamibWonderset. arabianmoda.com|73





PhotosCourtesy:VanCleef&Arpels FloraeExhibitionby VanCleef&Arpels A crossroad ofphotography andhighjewelry Ajoyouscelebrationofbejeweledflowerswasbirthedfrom thecollabora- tionofthehouseofVanCleef&ArpelswithJapanesephotographerMika Ninagawain theFloraeexhibition in Paris.Walking into theHôtel d’Évreuxtransportsvisitorsontoacaptivatingsceneryofdahlias,rosesand cherryblossomsinagardenofenchantmentandsurprises. Morethanahundredofthehouse’sjewelsfromtheVanCleef&Arpelscol- lectionandcontemporarycreationsareshowcasedinfrontofNinagawa’sworks tocreateanunforgettablevisualdelight.Andforthosepassionateaboutroyaljew- elry,thepiecesofQueenFawziaandQueenSorayaofIran(picturedhere)tellataleof ajewelerfavoredbyalavishandsophisticatedclientele. “TheMaisonloveshighlightingaffiliationsbetweenitsjewelrycreationsandthe workofartistswhodrawfromthesamesourcesofinspiration.Thatisthecase forMikaNinagawaandflowers.Theuniquenessofherphotographsliesinher immersiveapproach.Ratherthanfocusingonaparticulardetail,shecreates anoverarchinguniversemadeupofimagesthatplungeviewersintotheheart ofnature.Thatsenseofimmersionalsogaverisetotheexhibition’sstriking decor:MikaNinagawaandTsuyoshiTaneimaginedawelcominglabyrinth wherevisitorsloseallnotionsofscaleanddistance.Surroundedbyacompen- diumofphotographsandjewels,theycontemplateatranscendentdi- aloguebetweenprecious stones and projected petals.Itallcomestogeth- erin amagicalexperi- ence,”explainedNicol Bos,PresidentandCEO ofVanCleef&Arpels. arabianmoda.com|76

It’sonlyextraordinarylightsandjewelrythisseason PhotosCourtesy:Piaget withMaisonPiaget.TheVoluptuousBorealisCuff watch,fortheseekersofoneuniquecreation,isa pieceofartcomposedofbaguette-cutemeraldsand diamonds.TheCelestialDancewatchhasacaptivat- ingmarqueterydialcraftedbyRoseSaneuilusing bluestraw,leather,parchment,elytronandhornbeam paired with abluealligatorstrap.TheDancing Aurorawatchisalimitededitionof8pieceswitha dialsetwithmalachiteandbrilliantcutdiamondsand afashionablegreenalligatorstrap. arabianmoda.com|77



THE PhotosCourtesy:LaPrairie BeautyZone Retinolisamolecule widely recognized foritsline-smooth- ing and anti-aging efficacy.Arareelementthatthrivesinthenight time,whentheskinissubjecttoregeneration duringpeaksincollagensynthesis.Withage, skinvitalityisweakenedandwithLaPrairie’s Skin CaviarCreamsage-induced effectsare counteracted. Inspiredfrom thebreakthroughworkofSwiss surgeonDrPaulNiehansonskinregenerationat CliniqueLaPrairie,thelatestSkinCaviarNight- timeOilgivesnew lifeandenergybacktothe skin.AlongwithSkinCaviarEssence-in-Lotion, SkinCaviarLiquidLift,andSkinCaviarLuxe EyeCream,ittargetsessentialelementsforare- juvenatedappearance. arabianmoda.com|79



PhotosCourtesy:KilianParis Must-have Lipstick TheHouseofKilianParis,bestknownforitssignaturefragrances,hasintroduced LeRougeParfumanewliquidmattelipstickline.Availableinsixshadesforplayful andmemorablesoirées,thelipinkislong-lasting,waterproofandtasteslikeheaven withscentsofvanilla,orangeblossomandmarshmallows. arabianmoda.com|81

PhotosCourtesy:Chanel Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication with Chanel’s Tone-On-Tonecollectionofcolorsmadetobeeasilymatched. Thisrangebeautifiestheeyesdowntothefingertipsandrevolves aroundapaletteoffourmainshades;warmgray,anassortmentof khakis,aterracottainspiredofnaturaltonesandareddishbrown. Theproductsarefocusedonrefinedshimmeringeyesandatonal mattefinishingfortherestoftheface.MakeupCreationStudio’s StyloOmbreetContourisusedfortracingtheupperandlower lashlineandpairedwithaparalleltone-on-toneshadefrom OmbrePremièreLaqueappliedtotheuppereyelidforatouchof elegance.RougeAllureVelvetisforaradiantsmileandLeVernisisfora face-to-fingertipsall-Chanellook. arabianmoda.com|82



deVivre,modernart,design,theytravelalot,theyare camefromthetypicalsmellinthestreets.Hemadea lookingfordifferentdiscoveries,exclusivesproducts beautifulmixofSaffron,roseandwoods,itisdeli- andtheyareinterestedinauthenticexperiences.Some ciousandresumeswelltheatmosphere. ofthem arequiteyoungandtheybecomefragrance loversthankstoEX NIHILO.Others,havebeenal- AM:Finally,whataresomeofyourupcoming readypassionateaboutperfumesbutwantsomething projects? originalreflectinganAvant-Gardespirit. WeareexpandingourpresenceintheMiddleEastand AM:YouhaverecentlyfocusedontheMiddleEast- canbefoundfrom Kuwait(Bloomingdale's,Harvey ern market,whatinspiresyou themostin the Nichols),SaudiArabia(Westerly,JouriMall,Faces) region? toDohainQatar(BlueSalon,GaleriesLafayetteand Forinstance,Dubaiisameltingpot,itcombinesa SecretNotes). modernmetropoliswithatimelesssensibilityandan Wealsohaveplansofdevelopingintherestofthe Arabianflair.WeareParisiansbutwefeellikehome world:abrand-newflagshipstoreinLosAngeles,and inDubai. wehavetheambitiontodoubleourdoorsworldwide Itisaquintessentialfuturisticcitycreatedfromscra- withabigfocusonAsia.So,staytunedforournext tch,justlikeEXNIHILO. adventures! WearedistributedinDubaifor5yearsnowandthe successofourcreationsinBloomingdale'sandHarvey Nicholspushedustobringourfullscentedexperience from ParisandhenceDubaibecameourveryfirst flagshipintheMiddleEast. AM:Whatwouldyousayarethetopingredientsin PhotosCourtesy:EXNIHILO theArabworld? Trendsarechangingsoitisdifficulttosay.Agarwood isstilltypicalandiconic(eventhoughitisgrownin Asia),formeasaParisian,thesmellofBakhour,in- censesorevensomespiceslikeSaffronremindmeof theregion.Infact,layeringismultifaced:whenQuen- tinBischworkedonVenenumKisshisinspiration arabianmoda.com|84

























arabianmoda.com|97 PhotosCourtesy:HotelMetropole



MariaTheresa. Butwe betyouwillfeelhungryas youpassbydeliciouspa- tisseries, boulangeries, andothertypesofsavory stores, each presenting traditionalBasque food liketheinfamous(andde- licious)Basquecakeand allsortsoflocalspicy meats.Besidesgastrono- my,thecitysellsawide rangeoflocalandhand- madeproductsincludin fineleathergoods,textiles with traditionalcolorful patterns,and the very fashionableFrenchespa- drilles.Your finalstop willthenbeatthefisher- men’sport,onceknowntohostthefirst whalersinEuropesincethe14thcen- tury,andthereasonbehindthedevel- opmentofaveryprosperouswhaling industry.Nowadays,theportisspe- cializedincodfishing.Whilewalking aroundit,don’tmissoutonthetwo Art-DécostyledPhares(lighthouses) designedbyAndréPavlovsky. PhotosCourtesy:Saint-Jean-de-Luz WalkontheGrandePlage Visitthenearbyvillages IndulgeinthepicturesqueviewofhousesoftheBelle JustacrossthebridgefromSaint-Jean-de-Luzisthe Époquearchitecture,ortakeadipintheAtlanticOcean. colorfulcityofCiboure.Uponyourarrival,youwill Don’tyoubesurprisedifyouhappentoseepeopleswim- bedrawntovisititsfortress,theFortdeSocoa.Once mingearlyinthemorningonawinterday,becauseit’s youaretheretakeacloserlookatthepowerful partofthelocalcustoms.Walkonthesand,oronthe waves,andthenaturallysea-madecurvaturesonits promenade,andkeepyoureyesontheAtlanticonyour bay.YoucanalsogogolfingatthelargeGolfdela right,andthetopofthePyrénéesmountainsontheleft. Nivelle.Othernearbyvillages,accessiblebycar,in- Itissimplythebestofbothworlds!Andifyouareinto cludethevillageofGuéthary.Don’tmissoutonvis- watersportsthenyoujusthappentobeintherightplace. itingitsisolated,calm andintactbeaches,also Surfingisthemostpracticedsports,soyoucaneitherhit knowntobeasurfer’sparadise.Gofurtherandvisit thewavesortakeabeginner’ssurfingcourse.Youmay Ainhoa,simplybecauseitislistedamongthemost alsochoosefrom otherwateractivateslikejetskiing, beautifulvillagesofFrance,andtoAscain,towatch paddling,sailingorcruisingalongtheBasquecoast. thetraditionalPelota. arabianmoda.com|99