Harper's Bazaar

SINGA POR E harpersbazaar.com.sg THE MAVERICKS Rick Owens Yohji Yamamoto Rei Kawakubo Walter Van Beirendonck Anthony Vaccarello & Virgil Abloh POWER LIST Women shaping Singapore’s food scene

























AUGUST 2022 Boots, LOEWE ON THE COVER FABULOUS AT STYLE Lili Sumner/NEXT Models, EVERY AGE photographed by Tung Walsh, Suit Yourself 25 creative direction by Windy Aulia and Fabulous at Every Age 52 Well Rounded 30 styled by Christopher Maul. Coat; How to Look Effortless in In the Limelight 31 bodysuit; ear cuffs, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. Pleated Skirts 54 Wild Card 32 ON THE FACE Photo Finish All Hands on Deck 55 On the Streets 3 4 Primerizer+ Hydrating Primer, The Fashion Resistance 36 Smashbox. Ultra Le Teint Fluide, The Power List 2022 44 Chanel. Shape Tape Contour Concealer, Tarte. Dior Forever Natural FASHION Velvet, Dior ON THE EYES  Diorshow On Set Brow, Dior. Brow COU COU! Definer in Blonde, Anastasia Beverly Photographed by Tung Walsh Hills. Eyes To Mesmerise Eyeshadow Creative direction by Windy Aulia in Champagne, Charlotte Tilbury. Styled by Christopher Maul 112 Ombre Première Laque Longwear Liquid Eyeshadow in 46 Lumière, TRICK OF THE EYE Chanel. Emotionproof Eyeliner in 01 Photographed by Santiago Belizón Dominateur, Tom Ford Beauty. Calligraph:Ink Liquid Eyeliner Pen, Styled by Claudia Laukamp 120 shu uemura. Diorshow Iconic Overcurl CYBER STYLE Waterproof, Dior ON THE CHEEKS Tinted Moisturizer Blush in Provence, Photographed by Igor Reis Laura Mercier. Dior Forever Couture Creative direction by Raphael Tepedino Luminizer in 01 Nude Glow, Dior. Baume Essentiel Multi-Use Glow Stick Styled by Antonio Frajado 126 in Sculpting, Chanel ON THE LIPS Crayon Contour Des Lèvres Lip Liner in 06 Bordeaux, Gucci Beauty. Kind Words Matte Lipstick in Strong, Rare Beauty. Crystal Lip Gloss in Glass, Anastasia Beverly Hills ON THE HAIR Perfect hair Day (PhD) Night Cap Overnight Perfector, Living proof. No. 6 Bond Smoother, Olaplex. Instant Lift Thickening Spray, Kristin Ess. Texturizing Hair Spray, OUAI MAKEUP ARTIST Ruben Masoliver/ Walter Schupfer Management HAIRSTYLIST Nicolas Philippon/ ArtList Paris MANICURIST Philippe Ovak/Marie-France Thavonekham Agency CASTING DIRECTION Dominyka Angelyte/D.A. Consulting PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT Pacome STYLIST’S ASSISTANTS Florian Sudres; Summer Jiang







Bag, Givenchy AUGUST 2022 JEWELS & WATCHES Office Hours 56 Haute Bijoux 62 Mish-Mash Magic 64 Heart-Racing 65 The Wonder of It All 66 Beads of Glory 68 BAZAAR MAN Earthly Delights 7 1 Make Do & Mend 76 Tag Team 77 It’s a Man’s World 78 Icons & Iconoclasts 79 The Limitless Vision of Virgil Abloh 82 Beyond the Orbit 85 Inspiration 86 A FASHIONABLE LIFE BEAUTY REGULARS A Life of Balance 87 Disco Diva 98 Editor’s Note 20 Talking Points 92 Beauty News 102 Get The Look 23 Travel Notebook 94 Rose Again 104 Sunny Side Up 106 Waitlist 33 Horoscope 70 Why Don’t You? 134



AUGUST 2022 KENNETH GOH Editor-in-Chief Bro Executive Editor och, Chaumet Digital Director CHARMAINE HO TAN CHEE BOON Associate Fashion Director Social Media Manager JEFFREY YAN JOE TAN Associate Style Editor Senior Digital Writer GRACIA PHANG SHERMIN NG Senior Beauty Editor Social Media Producer ARISSA HA NAVIN PILLAY Contributing Subeditor Senior Art Director JOYCE LIM DAPHNE TSO Creative Director Associate Art Director WINDY AULIA ALICE CHUA STUDIO OPERATIONS ADMINISTRATION & EDITORIAL SUPPORT Chief Photographer/Videographer Manager, Ad Ops VERONICA TAY LIN FENG Senior Manager JULIANA CHONG Senior Photographer/Videographer PHYLLICIA WANG Senior Executives WENDY WONG, CYNTHIA LEE Photographer/Videographer ATHIRAH ANNISSA, LAWRENCE TEO Contributing Photographers Santiago Belizón, Bobby Doherty, Gan, Monika Lis, Igor Reis, Tan Shou, Natsuko Teruya, Tung Walsh, Wee Khim Contributors Azhar Rahim, Hannah Betts, Donson Chan, Chan Siew Boon, Alison S. Cohn, Miguel Enamorado, Antonio Frajadol, Patty Huntington, Ray Kohar, Claudia Laukamp, Christopher Maul, Bogdan “Chilldays” Plakov, Andrea Stanley, Peter Watson HEARST MAGAZINES INTERNATIONAL President of Hearst Magazines International JONATHAN WRIGHT SVP/Global Editorial & Brand Director KIM ST. CLAIR BODDEN Global Editorial Director, Luxury Brands ELÉONORE MARCHAND International Editions Arabia, Australia, Brazil, China, Czech Republic, Germany, Greece, Hong Kong, India, Indonesia, Italy, Japan, Kazakhstan, Korea, Latin America, Malaysia, Netherlands, Russia, Saudi, Serbia, Singapore, Spain, Taiwan, Thailand, Turkey, Ukraine, UK, US, Vietnam

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EDITOR’S NOTE and shoulder pads angling for space on rows of pristine designer racks. If you flip to page 36 and PHOTOGRAPHY: VERONICA TAY. GROOMING: MANISA TAN. OUTFIT: FENDI. PLATINUM, GOLD, TSAVORITE, read about “The Fashion Resistance” that’s happening right now, you’ll realise that Matrix-adjacent SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND TIFFANY & CO. SCHLUMBERGER ETOILE DE MER BROOCH, TIFFANY & CO. looks and fashion armour are giving women a sense of enpowerment that goes way deeper than a runway trend. With the Russian/Ukraine war, growing unrest with climate change, over-burdened airports and wave upon wave of new Covid-19 strains criss-crossing the world (let’s not even start with monkeypox), a sense of fearlessness in your sartorial get-up arms you to do battle with what the world throws at you. Utilitarian fashion, combat fatigues and flight suits suddenly make so much sense in fashion and a faux fur coat from Saint Laurent could be the cosiest and eco-friendly alternative for keeping warm and ringfencing you from all the viruses in the world. With fashion leading the charge, I decided to focus the idea of power on The Mavericks—designers who have forged a path of their own, regardless of any trend, movement or shift in people’s tastes or wants. Designers like Rick Owens and Rei Kawakubo continue to challenge society norms of what is “nice and easy” to wear. There’s nothing “nice nor easy” about their fashion—they are meant to prod, provoke and challenge the way we think about our bodies, our society and our standing in the world. Read Associate Fashion Director Jeffrey Yan’s piece on these trailblazers on page 79 where he talks about how these iconoclasts march to the beat of their own drum, bringing to life new ideals of beauty. For me, the designer that truly spoke to the masses was Virgil Abloh. His death late last year from a rare form of cancer truly shook the fashion world, but his presence and influence was felt far deeper and wider. He was designing at his Off-White label and was Artistic Director for menswear at Louis Vuitton, but the conversations he sparked, the questions he asked of himself and the world, made a mark. Turn to page 82 to read about how his work continues to live on and how his last menswear show for Louis Vuitton was shown again in Bangkok because no one can get enough of his genius. I know—I just got myself a semi-transparent mini Keepall in a monogrammed chess motif that he created for Louis Vuitton. It’s my first Virgil piece and one that I will keep forever. And finally, our “The Power List” this year focuses on the women who are stirring up the food scene in Singapore. Whether it’s baking sourdough bread, distilling spirits, crafting cakes or churning vegan ice cream, these one-woman-many-hats ladies are changing the way we shop, buy, eat and drink in Singapore. Let’s support these trailblazers and vote with our hearts and mouth—because power today is not just about money, connections or status. It’s about the difference you make. KENNETH GOH Editor-in-Chief KENNIEBOY HARPERSBAZAARSG HARPERSBAZAARSINGAPORE HARPERSBAZAARSG HARPERSBAZAAR.COM.SG 20 HARPER’S BAZAAR AUGUST 2022



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GET THE LOOK Shorts, $2,800, Gucci Top, Jumpsuit, $3,450, Missoni Givenchy Ring, Earrings, $16,000, $1,970, Van Cleef & Saint Arpels Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello Heels, $1,220, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello Coat, GOLDEN GIRL Belt, Burberry Versace By the time top model Lili Sumner walked down Bag, Saint Laurent by Pont Neuf on a fine Parisian summer evening in Dress, Anthony Vaccarello July for this month’s cover shoot, there was rejoicing Stella on the couture runways as designers celebrated the McCartney return of dressing up. Not least Anthony Vaccarello at BY WINDY AULIA. PHOTOGRAPHY: TUNG WALSH Saint Laurent, who continued the hedonistic flair that the late Yves Saint Laurent made famous decades ago. There were signature touches of the late ’60s and early ’70s, subverted for today with faux fur, plunging-neck leotards and lots of glitter and shine. Soleil Lip Blush, $84, Tom Ford Beauty Top, CELINE Skirt, Dolce&Gabbana Sunglasses, $555, Miu Miu 23 HARPER’S BAZAAR AUGUST 2022

Visit Dress, about $1,255, Almudena Lapique Johanna Ortiz EASY Dress, about BREEZY $237, Faithfull THE SUMMER the Brand DRESSES THAT ARE PERFECT FOR YOUR NEXT VACATION Dress, about $4,900, Chloé Dress, $4,080, Valentino THIS Dress, $754, MONTH Nensi Dojaka at Mytheresa PERFECT FLUSH LONG-LASTING, BUDGE-PROOF BLUSHERS FOR ROSY, GLOWY SKIN PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES Gabrielle Giovanna Clockwise from top left: Cheek To Chic Blusher, $70, Caunesil Engelbert Charlotte Tilbury at Sephora. Ambient Strobe Lighting Blush, $74, Hourglass. Blush, $52, NARS. Amazonian Clay NATIONAL 12-Hour Blush, $49, Tarte. Primer-Infused Blush, $7, E.L.F. DAY READY Soft Pinch Liquid Blush, $33, Rare Beauty at Sephora HOW TO ROCK RED AND WHITE WITHOUT LOOKING LIKE YOU’VE TRIED TOO HARD HARPERSBAZAARSG HARPERSBAZAARSINGAPORE HARPERSBAZAARSG

SUIT YOURSELF Escape the formal connotations of the jacket by taking the workwear staple in new directions. Photographed by Phyllicia Wang. Styled by Gracia Phang The Linen Set Perfect for balmy days and beyond, a white pantsuit in this natural fabric looks even fresher when teamed with a sports bra and leather cap. Blazer; trousers, Polo Ralph Lauren. Bra top, Dior. Sneakers, Burberry. Cap, Coach. Necklace; ring, CELINE

The Skirt Suit Ditch the shirt, cinch the jacket at the waist with a sweater, and add serious frames to amp up the preppy-sexy factor. Blazer; matching skirt, Brunello Cucinelli. Sweater, CELINE. Glasses, Ray-Ban. Rings, Bottega Veneta

The Sports Suit The lines between work and play are blurred when polished suiting is juxtaposed with the comfy-casualness of a gym set in the same deep hues. Blazer, Fendi. Jacket, adidas. Shorts, Dior. Bag, CELINE. Rings, Bottega Veneta

The Strong Shoulders A masculine double-breasted jacket is the perfect counterpart for ultra-trendy pieces when you’re feeling sartorially adventurous. Blazer; cropped top; leggings; hat, Gucci. Shirt, Dior. Earrings, Swarovski

The Mix Up Pair a fitted jacket with a soft, flowy skirt that exudes feminine appeal but subvert it with chunky, embellished sandals. Blazer, Longchamp. Skirt; ring, CELINE. Sandals, Roger Vivier Model: Keely Maher/AVE Makeup: Manisa Tan using Gucci Beauty Hair: Ken Hong/Evolve using Goldwell Stylist’s assistant: Brandon Chia

2 STYLE 6 1 3 7 4 58 BY GRACIA PHANG 15 9 WELL ROUNDED Classic dots are rendered in irresistibly chic and playful ways—spot your favourite! 11 12 14 13 10 Picks Seal the deal with a whimsical yet sophisticated spherical bag in a neutral hue 1. Flat, Manolo Blahnik 2. Sunglasses, $370, Burberry 3. Gloves, $780, Gucci 4. Necklace, Cartier 5. Bag, $1,150, Givenchy x Disney 6. Skirt, $1,590, Paco Rabanne 7. Watch, Chanel 8. Trousers, $1,334, Christopher John Rogers 9. Ring, GRAFF 10. Bag, Chanel 11. Skirt, Marni 12. Moschino Prefall 2022 13. Le Soin Noir Protection UV Compact SPF40 PA+++, $156, Givenchy Beauty 14. Necklace, $1,319, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello 15. Shirt, $1,950, Dolce&Gabbana 30 HARPER’S BAZAAR AUGUST 2022

2 Picks 4 1 Mesh steppers get a 5 chic update in the standout hue 3 15 IN THE 7 6 14 LIMELIGHT 10 8 13 Supercharge your wardrobe with the highlighter hue of the season 11 12 BY GRACIA PHANG 9 1. Signature Naturelle EDP, $270 for 100ml, Chloé 2. Pump, $1,160, Bottega Veneta 3. Watch, Piaget 4. Blazer, MSGM 5. Dress, about $853, Leslie Amon at Net-a-Porter 6. Bangle, $8,380, Bvlgari 7. Trousers, $1,350, Dolce&Gabbana 8. Brooch, Marni 9. Necklace, $2,780, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello 10. Christopher John Rogers Prefall 2022 11. Belt, Dior 12. Skirt, about $632, A.L.C at Net-a-Porter 13. Bag, $2,960, Versace 14. Dress, $2,926, Maria Lucia Hohan at Farfetch 15. Ring, Cartier 31 HARPER’S BAZAAR AUGUST 2022

2 STYLE 6 1 4 Picks 5 Bright accessories with textural contrasts add to the playfulness of a mixed-print ensemble 8 7 3 WILD CARD Fashion favours the bold. Embrace mismatched prints 15 and clashing patterns 12 9 11 13 10 14 1. Ring, Piaget 2. Shirt, Burberry 3. Watch, $22,900, Van Cleef & Arpels 4. Necklace, Monica Vinader 5. Skirt, $3,300, Dolce&Gabbana BY GRACIA PHANG 6. Clutch, $5,210, Roger Vivier 7. Dress, $3,960, Missoni 8. Dress, $326, Rotate at Farfetch 9. Erdem Prefall 2022 10. Scarf, Chloé 11. Sunglasses, $560, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello 12. Sneaker, $944, JW Anderson 13. Tote, $5,200, Dior 14. Flora Gorgeous Gardenia EDP, $245 for 100ml, Gucci Beauty 15. Trousers, about $1,045, Marine Serre 32 HARPER’S BAZAAR AUGUST 2022

BY JEFFREY YAN WAIT LIST FLORAL ATELIER Nicolas Ghesquiere blends chintz and classicism at Louis Vuitton for a new kind of chic This season, Nicolas Ghesquière served up one of his most freewheeling, eclectic collections yet for Louis Vuitton—filled to the brim with the unlikely mashups that have become the designer’s signature. Ghesquière’s starting point was the way a young woman might take something from her mother or grandmother, or even her boyfriend, and wear it in a whole new way. Hence, the rugby shirts worn with diaphanous gowns; the grandad ties worn with sleek, glossy leathers; richly embroidered dresses with pyjama pants and sneakers; and girlish pinafores with grungy knits. The time-collapsing and cross-referencing continued in the accessories. Chintzy fabrics and pastoral prints, most commonly found in the drawing rooms of grand old houses, have here been juxtaposed against the sharp Modernist lines of the Dauphine bag. At once classical and contemporary, the result also nods at the Pop Art sensibility of the brand’s seminal Takashi Murakami collaborations. ■ The LV Garden Dauphine MM bag is $5,600 and is available at Louis Vuitton, #01- 23, ION Orchard (tel: 6788 3888). 33 HARPER’S BAZAAR AUGUST 2022

From top: STYLE Oversized works best HOT AROUND THE COLLAR in classic styles. A half-and-half blazer Pearls, chains, diamonds and beaded choker necklaces (a hot favourite) are back and have been at least since Spring/ looks fresh and youthful. Houndstooth Summer 2022. But here’s a slightly more edgy and “serious” one to add to our arsenal. Collar necklaces—and we’re talking patterns in different about ones that look like actual shirt collars—are the accessory sizes keep things interesting du jour to look out for. Options abound: Chanel’s leather number with an attached AirPods case; Ganni’s cape-like collars in the prettiest of fabrics trimmed with a beaded fringe; and Dior’s grommeted leather collar. It’s a new way to dress up a t-shirt, jeans or simple frock. MAN UP Collar, Dior The iconic borrowed- from-the-boys look that Collar, about Diane Keaton brought $176, Ganni to life in Annie Hall Collar with launched menswear- AirPods inspired fashion into the case, Chanel mainstream. Considered trailblazing in the ’70s, ON THE her androgynous style STREETS has transcended time, making a reappearance When girl meets boy, true style knows no gender in the latest street styles. Think relaxed, wide-leg trousers, boxy and oversized blazers, and chunky steppers— with or without a shirt, your choice. Vest, Etro VESTED Classic pinstripes INTEREST get a fresh twist in a snug waistcoat with Tailored vests or waistcoats are a perfect alternative to blazers hip-hugging, in our equatorial climate. Throw relaxed-fit trousers them on over a lightweight Vest, $1,550, tank top, matching trousers Saint Laurent and polished heels, and you’re by Anthony good for a work meeting. Or wear them solo with relaxed Vaccarello trousers or a billowy skirt, and you’ve got a chic, off-duty Vest, $1,500, ensemble as regularly spotted Dolce&Gabbana on Kendall Jenner and Bella A vintage-esque Hadid. Cropped, longline or vest over a pleated snug-fitting—pick what suits skirt is modern your style. It’s a hardworking yet nostalgic wardrobe staple that will last you a long time. 34 HARPER’S BAZAAR AUGUST 2022

Tie, Prada Valentino Anthony Vaccarello Prefall 2022 From top: Toughen up a by work-worthy outfit with a leather bomber jacket Laurent that picks up the colour of the tie. Go schoolgirl Saint preppy with checks and stripes in the same $330, colour family—Blair Waldorf would approve. Tie, A vibrant tie adds a pop of colour to a dark suit. Tie, Hermès TIE ME UP Clockwise from left: GET YOUR KICKS Dramatic coral frills It’s time to bring out those neckties add flair to a white Possibly the most and crisp button-ups—pairing them shirt. A corset layered comfortable, office- with tailored pantsuits would be the over a shirt in the appropriate footwear, leather cherry on top. Do it like Zendaya in a same shade is subtle loafers of late are beloved by razor-sharp Sportmax suit for the yet statement-making. the fashion crowd. Sparing Oscars after-party, or go for preppy If corsets are not your you the hassle of fumbling vibes à la Dior Prefall 2022, in plaids thing, a fitted tank top with laces, these always chic and short skirts to give this menswear over a billowy shirt slip-ons are now refreshed and cargo skirt with a playful spin, from accessory a cool girl twist. achieves a similar a sky blue hue and silhouette. Flash those wooden platform soles gams with a sparkly (think clogs) at Thom Thom wrap skirt and Browne, to Versace’s Browne matching boots. loafer-mule hybrid in sleek Prefall black leather, metal hardware 2022 and Louis heels. But if your heart is set on the classic loafer, spruce it up with crew socks like at Valentino. Versace Prefall 2022 BY GRACIA PHANG. PHOTOGRAPHY: SHOWBIT GENDER BENDER There’s no skirting the issue now that it’s increasingly accepted for men and non-binary persons to don skirts. While it may seem like a new phenomenon, the fact is that skirts and dress-like garments were typical clothing for men in ancient Rome, Egypt and Greece. In parts of Southeast Asia, Japan and India, traditional men’s clothing that incorporate skirts are still worn today. Remember when Billy Porter sashayed down the 2019 Oscars red carpet in a gown? The lines between masculinity and femininity have been increasingly blurred, and we’re all for it. Enter menswear in extravagant frills paired with tailored shorts, corsets worn over crisp button-downs, and of course pleated skirts and cardigans courtesy of Thom Browne. Fashion is all about self-expression, remember that. 35 HARPER’S BAZAAR AUGUST 2022

STA N C ESTYLE femFirnoimnesetrmonpowerON RESI THE FASHI ment wg-ashsothueldkeeryedtapkoewawerasyuoitfsthtoeMfaallt/rwixi-natdejra2c0en2t2lcooolklescatniodnfass,hrei ports Patty oHnuanrtimnogutr,on Schiaparelli

It wasn’t quite the reunion the fashion pack had love and peace.” Call it coincidence—or perhaps yet another anticipated. Twenty-fourth February, the day Russian illustration of fashion’s much-discussed knack for serving as a troops commenced their assault on Ukraine, was the cultural barometer—but frissons of fearlessness and feminine second day of Milan Fashion Week and the halfway empowerment reverberated throughout the fall/winter 2022 point of a season that represented the biggest return to collections. Yes, there were nods to the heavy sexual overtones the traditional, physical runway show format since of the spring/summer 2022 season, when collections groaned Covid-19 shut down the world in early 2020. with cut-outs, micro-miniskirts, bralettes, seductive strapwork Planeloads of international buyers, journalists, photographers, and sleek catsuits, as if designers had been celebrating the celebrities and models had reassembled on the circuit in world reconnecting after two years of isolation and lockdowns. numbers not seen in two years, over the moon to be back in But winter is coming and with it, they seemed far more the business of fabulousness. Then came Putin’s reality check. preoccupied with serving up a heavy dose of fashion PPE. “My decision not to use any music was taken as a sign of respect towards the people involved in the unfolding tragedy A viral TikTok trend over the past year, balaclavas were all in Ukraine,” tweeted Giorgio Armani, the first designer to over the runways, as were myriad different garments featuring respond publicly to the crisis, after dispatching his models attached hoods. Full face coverings also proved a popular down the runway in total silence. Balenciaga wiped its entire runway or lookbook styling tool. The trend did not escape the Instagram feed, its only social media activity in the lead up to attention of some Muslims, who face discrimination in a its 6 March show in Paris being a request for people to donate number of countries about wearing the hijab. Supermodel to the World Food Programme. Bella Hadid came under fire on Instagram during the New York “In a time like this, fashion loses its relevance and its actual leg of the season, after posting images of herself in the right to exist. Fashion Week feels like some kind of an absurdity,” Proenza Schouler show wearing a black hooded sweater. She read the show notes of Balenciaga Creative Director Demna, later posted several messages of support for Muslim women. for whom the matter was personal. The conflict triggered his own memories of fleeing the Georgian civil war in 1993, initially Balmain’s collection featured so many looks evocative of to Ukraine, as a 10-year-old refugee. After initially considering body armour, tactical gear, compression padding and cancelling the show altogether, he later concluded that that protective wear, that Creative Director Olivier Rousteing felt would mean “giving in”. Tweaking his original show concept, the need to clarify things in his show notes. “These runway which had been intended as a statement on another global offerings were not designed as a direct response to the recent crisis—climate change—Demna delivered a dystopian tour de horrific invasion of our neighbours,” said Rousteing. force that was hailed by many as the season’s defining show. Presented inside a cylindrical glass-walled structure that Shoulder pads, which seem to cycle in and out of fashion simulated a giant snow globe, models trudged out through a on a roughly 40-year rotation, were everywhere. They first manufactured snow blizzard in the designer’s trademark found their way into modern womenswear in the 1930s via the oversized streetwear and tailoring, which included a floor- couturiers Elsa Schiaparelli and Marcel Rochas. They helped length black coat made from a new mycelium-derived leather- define the womenswear silhouette of the 1940s, a period that look product called EPHEA. There were stretch dresses and witnessed a job surge for women, many of whom donned bodysuits, some enveloped in Balenciaga-branded packing military uniforms and filled jobs left vacant by men who had tape; supersized, shrunken or partially destroyed turtlenecks, gone to fight in World War II. Shoulder pads re-emerged in the pants and hoodies; and towels worn as wraps. Among the so-called Dress for Success 1980s, a decade in which labour handbags was a new design called The Trash Pouch—the force growth was substantially higher for women than for men luxury equivalent of a garbage bag. Demna’s mise-en-scène in every region of the world except Africa, according to United perversely paralleled the humanitarian crisis that was unfolding Nations data. a few borders over, his models resemblant of refugees carrying their belongings in whatever they could grab as they fled. Call it a coincidence, but shoulder pads returned just as Oversized t-shirts bearing the yellow and blue Ukrainian flag women are leading a post-Covid-19 charge back to the were placed on every seat and the show closed with a man in a workforce. Exaggerated, mannish shoulders have become the yellow tracksuit and a woman in a blue evening gown with a linchpin of what has been widely dubbed “the new power suit”: long train. “This show needs no explanation,” said Demna. “It is Dior’s gridiron football-like padded epaulettes; Peter Do’s a dedication to fearlessness, to resistance, and to the victory of dropped-shoulder blazers that seemed multiple sizes too large; sharp-shouldered looks at Gucci, Prada, Sportmax, Jil Sander, Saint Laurent, Versace and others in everything from blazers and coats to evening dresses and even jumpsuits. Trousers were baggy, often supersized, hems dropped to maxi length CALL IT COINCIDENCE—OR PERHAPS YET ANOTHER ILLUSTRATION OF FASHION’S MUCH-DISCUSSED KNACK FOR SERVING AS A CULTURAL BAROMETER—BUT FRISSONS OF FEARLESSNESS AND FEMININE EMPOWERMENT REVERBERATED THROUGHOUT THE FALL/WINTER 2022 COLLECTIONS. 37 HARPER’S BAZAAR AUGUST 2022

STYLE EVERY DAY, I GO OUT IN THE WORLD IN MY OWN VERSION OF SOCIALLY DISTANCED ARMOUR, BUT BENEATH THAT ARMOUR IS A REAL DESIRE TO TOUCH, TO FEEL, TO BE TENDER, TO BE VULNERABLE. —DANIEL ROSEBERRY and the word “oversized” recurred again and again in designer Roberto Cavalli to plaid trouser suits at Marni and Gucci. show notes. For his second collection for Alaïa, Pieter Mulier’s Chanel dedicated its entire show to tweed, a fabric to which oversized tailoring was inspired, he said, by the voluminous Gabrielle Chanel was first introduced by her lover, the Duke of cashmere men’s coats that Azzedine Alaïa had made in the Westminster, after travelling with him to Scotland. Borrowing 1970s and 1980s for Hollywood icon Greta Garbo, who was his tweed jackets to wear, she would later adapt them into renowned for her androgynous style, favouring trousers, one of her brand’s hallmarks: The Chanel suit. trench coats and flat shoes. This season’s bralette, the corset, was omnipresent, worn A week after the season wrapped, queer American writer over shirts at Fendi, embroidered in a trompe l’oeil effect over Jill Gutowitz caused a minor media furore after penning a garments at Schiaparelli, moulded in zippered leather and story for Harper’s BAZAAR US claiming that “lesbian fashion” shearling at Dion Lee and embellished with three stripes at has been widely adopted by straight women. She cited the Gucci, courtesy of its new adidas collab. At Dior, there were current preponderance of women in trouser suits on the red adjustable, laced versions with tactical black strapping that carpet, along with the popularity of wide-legged trousers, looked like Kevlar vests. The collection was presented inside sweater vests, Doc Martens, loafers, leather trench coats, what Dior called a “militant art gallery”: A vast, 36m x 9m baggy denim and dungarees. Noted Gutowitz: “Any given installation of 54 artworks by Italian feminist artist Mariella straight woman named Sarah feels the freedom to dress like Bettineschi, who is known for her surrealist reworking of Old Trinity from The Matrix now, an outfit once reserved for intense Master portraits of women, such as Vermeer’s Girl With a queer women.” Pearl Earring and Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa and Lady With an Ermine. Bettineschi duplicates, then splices the Trinity—the kick-ass Matrix hacker-turned-freedom fighter subjects’ faces together, to give each face four eyes. The played by Carrie-Anne Moss, who was kitted out in black point, according to Dior, is to “question the judgment that has leather trench coats, PVC bodysuits and leggings—could have conditioned—and still conditions—women past and present”. been a fall/winter 2022 muse. Leather trench coats and dress coats reigned at brands including Rokh, Saint Laurent, Prada, Once considered an instrument of torture, the corset Marine Serre, Oscar de la Renta, Richard Malone, Raf Simons, re-emerged as a symbol of feminine empowerment in the Alaïa and Schiaparelli, often in black but also rendered in a 1980s, first seen in the collections of Vivienne Westwood and rainbow of colours. A plethora of other leather or PVC Jean Paul Gaultier. For her Stature of Liberty corset, garments included dungarees at Isabel Marant, Bottega Veneta Westwood had been inspired, she said, by the first sexual and Missoni; leather dresses at LOEWE, Christopher Kane, revolution of the 18th century. The Georgian period of 1714 to Chloé and Courrèges; glossy leather minis at Khaite and 1837, which included the Regency era, provided the historical Hermès; biker looks at Alexander McQueen, Alaïa and Miu Miu; backdrop to Julia Quinn’s Bridgerton books, which inspired and dominatrix-worthy latex leggings at Del Core and Versace. the smash hit Netflix series of the same name. The series prompted a well-documented spike in corset sales in the Utilitarian looks, military-like fatigues and combat past year. pants were also front and centre, from flight suits and tactical vests at Salvatore Ferragamo, Simone More recent corset adoptees include Dion Lee, Nensi Rocha, Private Policy, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Nehera and Dojaka and Schiaparelli Creative Director Daniel Roseberry, Rejina Pyo to the evergreen track suit at brands for whom the cone bra has become something of a go-to. including Balenciaga, Elie Saab and even Roksanda, thanks to Gaultier unveiled his cone bra dress in 1984, later adapting her collab with FILA. Huge coats stalked the runways, the most the look to create the iconic pink silk corset for Madonna’s striking including Saint Laurent’s voluminous and incredibly 1990 “Blond Ambition” World Tour. This season, Schiaparelli’s realistic faux minks and Glenn Martens’ fantastical, floor- cone bra offerings include a not-for-the-faint-hearted sweeping shag coats for Diesel, fashioned from strips of “moulded boob tube”, featuring exaggerated pointed breasts distressed denim. Voluminous ponchos also prevailed at that jut out a good six inches from the chest. Gabriela Hearst, Zimmermann, Jonathan Simkhai, Chloé, Roberto Cavalli, Nina Ricci, Kenzo and many others. Plaid “It’s tender, it’s savage,” says Roseberry, of the latter. and tartan—both fabrics with longstanding menswear “Which makes sense, because that’s how I feel much of the associations—were also everywhere, from oversized time these days. Every day, I go out in the world in my own houndstooth minis at Versace to punk rock tartan trousers at version of socially distanced armour, but beneath that armour Vivienne Westwood, mix-and-match plaids at Marine Serre and is a real desire to touch, to feel, to be tender, to be vulnerable. I want to give women clothes to run the world in, yes—but, equally, clothes to fall in love in. Can’t we have both? Can’t we want both? Can’t we be both?” ■ 38 HARPER’S BAZAAR AUGUST 2022

Gucci Prada POWER TAILORING Louis Vuitton Shoulder pads, which seem to cycle in and out of fashion every 40 years, were everywhere, as were sharp-shouldered blazers and coats, supersized trousers and maxi-hem lengths. Peter Do Saint Laurent EXAGGERATED, MANNISH SHOULDERS 39 HARPER’S BAZAAR AUGUST 2022 HAVE BECOME THE LINCHPIN OF THE NEW POWER SUIT.

Raf Simons STYLE Balenciaga TOUGH CHIC Leather and slick, black PVC looks dominated—along with leather-like alternatives, such as the new mycelium-derived EPHEA product, which made its debut TRINITY, at Balenciaga. THE KICK-ASS MATRIX HACKER- TURNED- FREEDOM FIGHTER, COULD HAVE BEEN A Alaïa FALL MUSE. Versace 40 HARPER’S BAZAAR AUGUST 2022

UTILITY UTILITARIAN LOOKS, MILITARY- A Covid-19 core staple, the track suit, got an upgrade. Think action-ready utility fabrics, patch pockets, LIKE FATIGUES tactical vests and boiler suits. AND COMBAT PANTS WERE ALSO FRONT AND CENTRE. Rejina Pyo Simone Rocha Gucci Private Policy Roksanda 41 HARPER’S BAZAAR AUGUST 2022

Kenzo STYLE Nina Ricci PONCHOS Voluminous ponchos and cape looks found their way into almost every second collection. A poncho resembling a Scottish plaid blanket, complete with fringing, was the opening look of Japanese streetwear star Nigo’s much-awaited debut at Kenzo. Burberry Raf Simons Gabriela Hearst 42 HARPER’S BAZAAR AUGUST 2022

Schiaparelli THIS SEASON’S BRALETTE, THE CORSET, WAS OMNIPRESENT. Dior CORSETS Dion Lee Whether laced, zippered, boned, padded or embroidered in a trompe l’oeil effect over garments, corsets were a major designer go-to for fall. Fendi Gucci 43 HARPER’S BAZAAR AUGUST 2022

STYLE Dress, Bottega Veneta. Earrings, Swarovski 44 HARPER’S BAZAAR AUGUST 2022

THEPOWER LIST 2022 We spotlight the women pouring heart and smarts into building F&B JEANETTE AW businesses that are not just successful, Once Upon A Time Patisserie but soulful and filled with Singaporean Why the pivot from entertainment to the spirit—or spirits, in the case of one. food industry? By Jeffrey Yan. I’ve always known that it’s not something I want to do for life—I don’t want to be acting until I’m 60 or 70. Photographed by Wee Khim. Baking has always been therapeutic for me. Even after a Creative direction by Windy Aulia. long day at work, I would go home, bake at midnight, and bring things to the set the next day. When people Styled by Gracia Phang enjoy and finish the food, and even remember it years after, that gives me a different kind of happiness. With MAKEUP: ELAIN LIM USING DIOR. HAIR: GARY LOW/PASSION HAIR SALON food, it’s very direct; people don’t lie about it. If something is not good, nobody is going to scarf it down. For me, it’s a very pure way of communicating. I was self-taught but it came to a point where I wanted to empower myself with the right knowledge and techniques, and ultimately know how to create. As my end goal was to open my own patisserie, I didn’t want to rely on a chef or just lend my name to a shop—I wanted to be the one behind all the creations. That’s why I decided to do the nine-month course at Le Cordon Bleu. I wasn’t planning on starting a business so soon but the demand just grew very organically. What have been some of the challenges you faced in this new industry? The F&B industry is actually less forgiving [than entertainment]. With entertainment, people take a lot of things with a pinch of salt—you’re just an entertainment topic. But with food, and especially with me being a celebrity, the beginning was tough. People would make comments like, “Oh, she’s just a celebrity having fun”, “This is just a hobby”. But it’s not just a hobby—I want to be taken seriously. It’s why I went to get the proper certification and knowledge, it’s why I’m doing it by myself. It’s also why I was very insistent on not doing media gifting. I know I have the connections to, but I didn’t want people to say nice things just because they got it for free. I wanted to prove my worth on my own. 45 HARPER’S BAZAAR AUGUST 2022

Top; skirt, Hermès. STYLE DAPHNE GOH Shoes, Roger Vivier. Earrings; necklace, COS. 46 HARPER’S BAZAAR AUGUST 2022 Atlas Coffeehouse Ring, Daphne Goh’s own How do you think you’ve grown over a decade in the industry? MAKEUP: WEE MING USING CHANEL BEAUTY. HAIR: MANISA TAN USING KEUNE HAIRCOSMETICS I opened my first café at 22. When you start out that young, people just assume that your chances of success are not very high. That fear of failure was the thing that spurred me on. Everything had to be perfect—because of that attitude, I became this mean, nasty person when things did not go my way and I pushed a lot of people away. As I became more mature, I realised that my motivation was no longer the fear of failure—it’s about achieving balance. The moment I came out of that box where everything needed to be perfect or done a certain way, I became a lot calmer and more receptive to people, and I had more space to think about what I wanted to offer. What are your hopes for the industry? When we were curating the menus for our shops, I realised we look a lot to the Melbourne style of living and eating. I think it’s easier for them because they have very high-quality produce. But in Singapore, if you tell people that you are selling egg mayo, for example, they would be like, “Why? I can make this at home”. I hope people can begin to open their minds to what we put on the table and trust that we don’t just take frozen stuff and defrost it. I do think Singaporeans as a whole are getting more discerning; for us, we just need to continue pushing boundaries and bring more value to the table. What’s a look that makes you feel powerful? I always find myself in flared pants. I wear a lot of hats in the day—I’m a barista, a baker, a trainer. I go into the kitchen sometimes, and I can’t do that in a little miniskirt, so being in flared pants gives me that versatility. I am dressed for what I need to do, but it can also be glamorous. In the day, I run around in sneakers and a crop top; after that, I can still go out for a date night with my husband.

JAMIE KOH Brass Lion Distillery MAKEUP: WEE MING USING CHANEL BEAUTY. HAIR: MANISA TAN USING KEUNE HAIRCOSMETICS Blazer, Joseph at Net-a-Porter. Bodysuit; skirt, Hermès Why do you do what you do? a Singaporean gin as well. Now that we have the I love creating new things. The process of building product, what drives me today is sharing that product something drives me. I love putting everything with the rest of the world. together—the element of creation, bringing a new concept to life, sharing it with people and having them What are some of your frustrations with the industry? experience it for the first time. For Brass Lion, the Sometimes, I feel like a lot of people who say they journey started 10 years ago from this desire to create a “support local” can be a bit hypocritical. When you go Singaporean spirit. There weren’t any at that time and I behind their bars, there are no local brands. I’m not wanted to create something we could call our own, with even talking about Brass Lion, just any local spirits or ingredients and botanicals that were familiar to us— beers. I feel that if you want to support local, or if you things we grew up with; things we use in our cooking. say you’re farm-to-table, that concept needs to be When you talk about Singapore and drinking, people carried all the way through. Your drinks programme think of the Singapore Sling, which is a gin-based also needs to reflect that. It’s something that we try cocktail. You shouldn’t use a foreign gin and call it a to advocate for but progress doesn’t always happen Singapore Sling. That was partly why I wanted to create fast enough. 47 HARPER’S BAZAAR AUGUST 2022

STYLE GENEVIEVE LEE MAKEUP: WEE MING USING CHANEL BEAUTY. HAIR: MANISA TAN USING KEUNE HAIRCOSMETICS Sourbombe Bakery Why do you do what you do? I started my first business at 16 selling homemade cakes to cafés. The challenge that I always pose to myself is: Can I build a legit, sustainable business? I chose the food business because it’s everything I have ever known. I was born into it—my dad runs a chicken rice store that has a history of 50 years. I’ve also worked in restaurant kitchens and I don’t like how toxic the environment can be sometimes. I’ve always wondered: Why can’t a kitchen environment be super positive and welcoming while also being a profitable business with quality products? When I built my business, I went in with the intention to have a good environment—it’s something I wanted to prove to myself. What is a look that makes you feel powerful? I am super into silk dresses because they kind of defy everything that has to do with working in a kitchen. I feel that a lot of female chefs and bakers are always being put in this box— people think we’re masculine or tomboyish, that we are not pretty or glamorous. For a lot of the shoots I’ve done, I’m always asked to come in my chef’s jacket. But I don’t really feel my best in a chef’s jacket—it’s just part of my work identity, but not something that defines me. You can never wear a silk dress in the kitchen—it hugs your body, it makes you feel sexy. I don’t think it’s something a lot of female chefs like to say because we’re always having to stand up against the guys in the kitchen. If you show any signs of femininity, they’d think you’re weak. Dress, H&M. Necklace, Genevieve Lee’s own 48 HARPER’S BAZAAR AUGUST 2022