advertisement feature Field-to-fork dining Florida's year-round sunshine and subtropical climate create prime growing conditions for fresh produce, which innovative chefs, both homegrown and new to the state, use in fresh seasonal dishes. Watch the sun set over the river at Black Sheep Restaurant in Jacksonville while enjoying shrimp and grits or tuck into guinea hog and Black Hog Farm chicken along the St Johns River in Palatka. On the Atlantic coast in St Augustine, chefs use the super-spicy datil pepper to make BBQ tacos, and shrimp and sausage in datil-tomato broth. Foodie road trips Diverse cuisines Fuel a rural road trip with freshly squeezed orange juice, sweet Many cultures have influenced Florida’s food scene – the perfect winter strawberries and Cajun-style peanuts, the latter of which recipe for an eclectic culinary melting pot. Try Greek food along you'll find served out of roadside trucks in Jackson County on the the Anclote River in Tarpon Springs, where Greek sponge divers Alabama border, where you can also discover Florida Caverns settled and second-generation Greeks now serve Mediterranean State Park. In Central Florida, drive around the network of lakes food in lively taverns on the Gulf Coast. Delight in southern food and natural springs (where you can take a dip and even spot in northern cities such as Pensacola, an established part of the manatees during the winter months), stopping at some of the old jazz and blues circuit, where you can taste Aunt Sarah’s fried state’s sublime vineyards, including Ridgeview Wine Estate, and chicken at Five Sisters Blues Café. farm gate shops, such as Showcase of Citrus in Clermont or the open-air fruit market Ridge Island Groves. Cuban sandwiches are legendary in Florida, and you can try the best of them in Tampa’s La Segunda Bakery (which also bakes Trendy foodie neighbourhoods loaves for Tampa’s Columbia Restaurant, a Cuban institution in Ybor City and the oldest restaurant in Florida), St Pete’s popular Hang out with fashionable locals in some of Florida’s coolest walk-up shack, Bodega, and with a contemporary spin at El cities. Embark on a mini brewery tour in St Pete, home to 35 Sanguicherie in Little Havana, Miami’s lively Latin district. breweries – seven of which lie within a one-mile radius – while also taking in the vibrant murals. Join up two of the state’s most Unique seafood experiences iconic food halls on a mooch along Tampa’s 2.6-mile Riverwalk, fuelled by street food treats such as sushi burritos, NYC-style Florida’s vast coastline spans the wild Atlantic and the serene pizza and Cuban sandwiches. Or, wander through converted Gulf of Mexico, and unsurprisingly, these waters provide an warehouses in Miami’s Wynwood Arts District, where you can abundance of seafood. Charter a boat off the sandy shores of find secret cocktail bars at the back of taco joints (Coyo Tacos), Destin, on the Gulf, to catch grouper, then get it grilled to order indulgent Floridian burger joints (Kush) and fresh-from-the-oven at one of the many relaxed seafront restaurants. Set in a rustic babka at the most colourful bakery in town (Zak The Baker). building on the coast, Gulf-to-table dining spot Harbor Docks is owned by a fishing family who turn fresh catch of the day into sushi, poké bowls and spicy seafood salads. A stroll along the Destin Harbor Boardwalk, meanwhile, leads you to Dewey Destin’s beach shack, the go-to spot for a grouper sandwich and huge, lobster-like rail red shrimp. Further west in Pensacola, you can take part in the annual mullet toss, when hundreds gather to throw fish across the state line to Alabama, and the finest are cooked fresh and enjoyed with cocktails and plenty of live music. Ready to start planning your holiday? Go to visitflorida.com/eat-and-drink to find out more July 2022 magazine.com 51
3 ways with Turkish pepper flakes Also known as pul biber or aleppo pepper, this traditional condiment adds mild heat and warm peppery fruitiness to these easy dishes 1Recipes JOHN GREGORY-SMITH Photographs NASSIMA ROTHACKER Lamb and halloumi burgers Sometimes, when I have people over for dinner, I don’t want elegant. I want something delicious and casual that we can all dive into with our hands – that’s the joy of a burger. My lamb burgers have a delicious twist: tiny cubes of halloumi mixed into the meat. The cheese seasons the lamb and melts as it cooks. 30 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY lamb mince (15-20% fat) 500g halloumi 100g, cut into 5mm cubes dried mint 2 tsp turkish pepper flakes 2 tsp olive oil 1 tbsp mayonnaise 100g brioche burger buns 4 Little Gem lettuce 1, leaves picked oven chips to serve PICKLED ONIONS red onion 1, thinly sliced lemon 1, juiced 1 Start with the pickled onions. Put the onion into a bowl and add the lemon juice, and a good pinch of salt. Mix well and leave, tossing occasionally, to macerate while you make the burgers. 2 To make the burgers, put the lamb into a bowl and add the halloumi, mint, pepper flakes and a good pinch of salt. Mix really well, then divide into four burgers, each about 8cm wide. Heat the oil in a non-stick pan over a medium-high heat and add the burgers. Give them a good squish down with a fish slice. Reduce the heat to medium and cook for a total of 3-4 minutes on each side, flipping every couple of minutes, until cooked through. 3 Generously spread the mayo over the bottom of each burger bun and layer up the lettuce, burgers and onions. Top with the bun lids and serve immediately with chips. PER SERVING 858 kcals | fat 59.8G saturates 22G | carbs 41.9G | sugars 13.1G fibre 4.2G | protein 35.8G | salt 1.9G Recipes extracted from Fast Feasts: Quick, Easy Recipes with a Middle Eastern Twist by John Gregory-Smith (£22, OH Editions). 52 July 2022 Omagazine.com
cook 3 ways with 2Pork chops and butter bean mash 3Sea bass and spinach borani To give these pork chops maximum flavour I use a This effortlessly easy dinner starts with a base of borani, marinating technique that I picked up on a research an Iranian yogurt meze, that melts when you top it with the trip to Ramallah in the West Bank. The base is mayonnaise hot sea bass fillets. I finish off the fish with chilli butter, a and it’s mixed with lemon, tomato purée and spices. The Turkish technique that adds extra flavour and immediate mayo helps tenderise the meat and caramelises beautifully opulence. You can have everything ready well before you when cooked. This recipe works beautifully with lamb want to eat, so all you have to do is cook the fish. chops, too – the cooking time is the same. 30 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY | LC GF 25 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY baby spinach 500g, washed mayonnaise 50g greek yogurt 350g lemon ½, juiced lemon 1, 1/2 juiced, 1/2 cut into wedges tomato purée 2 tsp garlic 1 clove, crushed turkish pepper flakes 1 tsp olive oil 2 tsp whole black peppercorns ground to make 1 tsp sea bass fillets 4, skin on pork chops 4 unsalted butter 30g turkish pepper flakes 2 tsp olive oil 1 tbsp walnuts 20g, bashed into a fine rubble garlic 1 clove, thinly sliced dill a handful of finely chopped butter beans 2 x 400g tins, drained ground cumin 1 tsp rocket salad to serve 1 Heat a non-stick pan over a high heat. Add half the spinach and 1 tbsp of water, and stir-fry for 2-3 minutes or until completely wilted. 1 Heat the grill to high. Put the mayo, half the lemon juice, the Transfer to a fine sieve and squeeze out the excess water using the tomato purée, pepper flakes, black pepper and a good pinch of salt into a mixing bowl. Mix well. Add the pork chops and back of a spoon. Repeat with the rest of the spinach. Transfer the rub the marinade all over them. Put onto a grill rack and grill for spinach to a chopping board and roughly chop, then transfer to a 3-4 minutes on each side until charred and tender. mixing bowl. Add the yogurt, lemon juice, garlic and a good pinch 2 Meanwhile, heat the oil in a pan over a medium heat and cook of salt. Mix well and spread onto a serving platter. the garlic, stirring occasionally, for 30-60 seconds or until fragrant. 2 Heat a frying pan over a medium heat. Brush the oil over the Tip in the beans and 70ml of just-boiled water. Add the cumin and fish and season well. Add to the pan, skin-side down, and cook for plenty of salt and pepper. Mash together. You can go as smooth 3-4 minutes or until the skin is crispy. Add the butter to the pan and as you like. If the beans look too dry, add another 2-4 tsp of water. turn the fish. Cook for 2-3 minutes, basting regularly, until the fish 3 To serve, divide the mash between four plates and top each one is cooked through. Remove the fish from the pan and put straight with a chop, adding a little salt to the meat, if you like. Serve onto the spinach borani. immediately with a handful of rocket. 3 Turn off the heat under the pan. Add the pepper flakes and a pinch of salt, and mix well. Drizzle the butter over the fish and scatter over the walnuts and dill. Serve immediately with the lemon wedges. PER SERVING 536 kcals | fat 31.9G PER SERVING 406 kcals | fat 29.9G saturates 8G | carbs 15.9G | sugars 2G fibre 7.9G | protein 42.5G | salt 0.3G saturates 12.5G | carbs 5.6G | sugars 4.3G fibre 2.2G | protein 27.5G | salt 0.8G July 2022 Omagazine.com 53
cook classic cook a classic Sweet ricotta-filled fried pastries are a famous Sicilian treat – serve them freshly made with Cannoli an espresso for the perfect pick-me-up Recipe ANNA GLOVER Photograph MIKE ENGLISH You will need cannoli moulds for this recipe but it’s worth SHOOT DIRECTOR: CLOE-ROSE MANN. STYLING: FAYE WEARS. FOOD STYLING: KATIE MARSHALL investing in them – nothing beats homemade cannoli. 1 HOUR + RESTING + CHILLING | MAKES 12 A LITTLE EFFORT plain flour 150g caster sugar 25g baking powder a pinch ground cinnamon a pinch lemon ½, zested unsalted butter 30g, melted egg 1, separated marsala wine 2 tbsp sunflower oil for deep-frying FILLING ricotta 250g icing sugar 3 tbsp mascarpone 100g orange or lemon 1 large, zested pistachios 50g, finely chopped 1 Put the flour, sugar, baking powder, cinnamon, lemon zest and a pinch of salt in a bowl, and mix well. Make a well in the middle, and add the melted butter, egg yolk and marsala wine. Bring the dough together in the bowl, and then transfer to a worksurface and knead until smooth. Wrap and leave to rest at room temperature for 30 minutes or chill overnight. 2 Heat the oil in a heavy-based pan no more than half full to 180C or until a cube of bread browns in 30 seconds. Cut the dough into four pieces and roll out one at a time as thinly as you can, keeping the remaining dough covered. Then cut three 10cm rounds out of each quarter using a straight-edged cookie cutter. 3 Lightly beat the egg white in a bowl, and oil the cannoli tubes lightly with a little more oil (work in batches if you need to, depending on how many moulds you have). Wrap each round around a mould, and use some of the egg white to stick the two edges together, pressing lightly – try not to get any egg white on the mould or they can stick. 4 Deep-fry the cannoli on their moulds for up to 60 seconds, in small batches, until they’re golden brown, crisp and lightly blistered all over. Drain on kitchen paper while you cook the remainder in batches, reusing the cooled moulds as needed. 5 For the filling, drain the ricotta and pat gently with kitchen paper, then tip into a bowl. Beat with an electric whisk until smooth, add the icing sugar, mascarpone and citrus zest. Beat again until just combined. Transfer to a piping bag with a wide star nozzle. 6 Fill the cooled cannoli with the filling, piping from both ends from the middle out so you get a neat star shape on either end. 7 Dunk either end in the chopped pistachios, and sprinkle with some icing sugar to serve. Best eaten the same day. PER CANNOLI 233 kcals | fat 15.8G saturates 6.2G | carbs 17G | sugars 7.1G fibre 0.9G | protein 4.7G | salt 0.2G 54 July 2022 Omagazine.com
Put the ‘pro’ in prosecco
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discover Recreate southern Thai specials from Oxford Street’s Plaza Khao Gaeng, immerse yourself in the UK’s most inventive specialised eateries, and explore the multi-layered food cultures of Cyprus and Nepal July 2022 Omagazine.com 57
MENU DECODER: eat in, eat out Coriander root Plaza Khao Literally the root of the Gaeng coriander plant, the roots are a key component in many This canteen in London’s newest food curry pastes. They have a hall shares four recipes to capture the deep coriander flavour and flavours of southern Thailand show the resourcefulness Recipes LUKE FARRELL Photographs DAVID COTSWORTH of Thai cooking. It’s the details that help make Luke Farrell’s Palm sugar Thai joint on the mezzanine floor of Arcade This is sugar made from the sap Food Hall feel like the real deal, amplifying the of palm trees – it is then cooked dishes which balance the right intensity of heat, freshness or sweetness. Oxford Street, cleverly down until it caramelises. screened off by shutters, seems a millions miles away. The menu is meant for sharing. Khao Bai cha pluu gaeng roughly means ‘curry over rice’ and rice is A Thai herb/vegetable similar needed, both for the aromatic curries, including to betel leaves. It can be used an orange curry of mussels and squid with sour garcinia, and astonishingly hot dry-fried klua as a wrapper for fillings or kling muu (pork with chillies, pepper and stirred into curries. galangal). Drinks include cocktails and an excellent selection of soft drinks, from Shrimp paste cucumber, thai basil and green mango soda to Tiny shrimp are packed coffees sweetened with condensed milk. Farrell together with salt to ferment, spent 15 years in Southeast Asia, working in leaving a thick, sweet and kitchens and learning his craft. Fresh produce is salty, umami-packed paste. grown by him in a greenhouse in Dorset, making it as aromatic as can be. plazakhaogaeng.com Fish sauce Small fish, squid or krill are packed into barrels with salt and fermented for up to two years, creating an umami-rich liquid. 58 July 2022 Omagazine.com
discover eat in, eat out Muu hong braised pork Nam chub with Thai omelette Muu hong is a recipe from Phuket, brought by Hokkien A relish of shrimp paste is known as nam prik kapi in Chinese. It can be found at all the trading posts on the Thailand and, colloquially, as nam chub in the south. It’s Andaman side of Thailand down to Songkhla and further always on the table at Plaza Khao Gaeng with cucumber to Penang, Malacca and Singapore. The use of soy sauce, and other cooling vegetables. A spoonful of nam chub on and trader spices such as pepper, star anise and cassia hot jasmine rice and a few herbs mixed through is Thai feature in this rich braise. It should be fragrant and so comfort food. The original, more elaborate nam prik tender you can cut it with a spoon. Shiitake mushrooms, joohn includes prawn, chillies and shallots. Joohn means bean curd sheets and boiled eggs can also be added. thief in Thai, so it is silently mixed by hand so you don’t get caught using a noisy pestle and mortar. 2 HOURS + MARINATING | SERVES 4 | EASY 15 MINUTES | SERVES 2 AS A STARTER | EASY | GF pork belly 600g dark soy sauce 2 tbsp, plus a splash shrimp paste 2 tbsp garlic minced to make 2 tbsp palm sugar 1 tbsp coriander roots 4 garlic 5 cloves, peeled whole black peppercorns 1 tbsp bird’s-eye chillies 4 (or more if you like it spicy) vegetable oil for frying limes 2, juiced rock sugar or coconut sugar 3 tbsp THAI OMELETTE light soy sauce 2 tbsp eggs 4 oyster sauce 2 tbsp fish sauce 1 tbsp star anise 2 lime juice a squeeze cassia bark 4cm piece sunflower oil for deep-frying shaoxing rice wine 1 tbsp coriander to garnish 1 Pound the shrimp paste with the sugar, garlic, chillies and 1 tsp jasmine rice to serve of salt with a pestle and mortar. 2 Add the lime juice and 2 tbsp of warm water, stirring to combine 1 Cut the pork belly into 71/2cm squares, and marinate in a little of – it should taste hot, sour and salty. the dark soy sauce for a few hours. 3 Beat the eggs with the fish sauce and lime juice until combined. 2 Roughly pound the garlic, coriander roots and peppercorns with 4 Heat 2-3cm depth of oil in a small pan until it just begins to a pestle and mortar, or whizz to a paste in a food processor. Stir- smoke. Pour the beaten egg through a sieve from a height into the fry in 1 tbsp of oil for 3-4 minutes or until fragrant. Remove from oil – it will form crispy comet tails. When it has risen in height, the pan and add the sugar – it will start to caramelise. carefully turn over using tongs, and cook until golden, then drain. 3 Add the pork belly with the garlic, coriander root and pepper. 6 Enjoy with a selection of herbs and vegetables, including Add the light soy sauce, oyster sauce, 2 tbsp of dark soy sauce cucumber, celery, lettuce, radishes, pineapple, aubergine, long and 1 tsp of salt. Add the star anise and cassia bark, with 400ml beans, green mango and sprigs of curry leaf. of water, and simmer over a low heat for 1 hour 30 minutes until the pork is tender. Add more water if it is drying out – the pork PER SERVING 331 kcals | fat 21.9G should sit in a pool of dark, fragrant sauce. Serve with rice. saturates 4.5G | carbs 12.1G | sugars 9.5G fibre 0.8G | protein 20.9G | salt 8.5G PER SERVING 504 kcals | fat 33.4G | saturates 11.2G carbs 19.8G | sugars 17.2G | fibre 1G | protein 30.6G | salt 4.5G July 2022 Omagazine.com 59
discover eat in, eat out Gaeng gati gai chicken curry Green mango highball Southern Thai curries are a delight of spicy pastes with This green mango highball is cooling and a little sweet, turmeric, chilli and black pepper, tempered with rich offering instant relief from the spiciness of traditional coconut cream. A gaeng gati melds these elements southern Thai food. harmoniously. Whole crabs buttery with brown meat and eggs or seafood and snails are decadent versions sunk into 10 MINUTES + STRAINING | SERVES 1 | EASY this rich sauce. For everyday lunches, just like curry rice shops in south Thailand, chicken works fine. Thai food is GREEN MANGO CORDIAL all about balance, however spicy. At Plaza we use cha pluu green mango 1, stoned and cut into 3cm slices leaves from the pepper family, but some okra, sliced cucumber ½, sliced pumpkin or pickled bamboo shoots also work. caster sugar 200g COCKTAIL 30 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY | GF rice vodka 50ml green mango cordial 30ml (see above) turmeric root 1 tbsp lime juice 20ml green or red bird’s-eye chillies 5 thai basil 4-5 leaves, plus extra to garnish whole black peppercorns 1 tsp soda water to top thai red curry paste 3 tbsp lime wedge to garnish vegetable oil 2 tbsp palm sugar 2 tbsp, broken up a little 1 Tip the mango flesh and cucumber into a high-powered blender skinless chicken thigh fillets 400g, cut into pieces with 200ml of water, and whizz until smooth. coconut milk 400g tin 2 Set a fine sieve lined with a muslin cloth over a bowl and pour bai cha pluu 6, cut into ribbons, or okra, 3, chopped the purée through the cloth, leaving for 30 minutes to strain. fish sauce 1 tbsp 3 Add the sugar to the strained liquid and whisk until dissolved. This will make more than you’ll need but will keep in an airtight 1 Use a pestle and mortar to finely pound the turmeric, chillies and container in the fridge for 1 month. peppercorns, and add the curry paste to combine. Alternatively, 4 For the cocktail, measure out all of the ingredients into a tall whizz together in a food processor. glass. Add in 4-5 leaves of thai basil and plenty of ice, then give 2 Heat a pan over a medium heat, add the vegetable oil and it a good mix with a spoon. Top up with soda water and garnish stir-fry the curry paste until fragrant. Add the sugar to caramelise with a wedge of lime and some more thai basil. slightly. Add the chicken thighs and fry for a minute or two. Pour in the coconut milk and bring to the boil. Simmer for 20 minutes until the chicken is cooked through, adding the bai cha pluu or okra in the final 5 minutes. 3 Season with the fish sauce and serve. PER SERVING 447 kcals | fat 32G saturates 17G | carbs 14.4G | sugars 12.1G fibre 4.5G | protein 23.2G | salt 1.5G 60 July 2022 Omagazine.com
Top of the food chain. The new Weber Genesis. Redefine barbecuing with an extra large sear zone, integrated revolutionary Weber Connect smart technology and the Weber Crafted Gourmet BBQ System. The ultimate barbecue for endless possibilities.
Specialist subjects Immerse yourself in a particular cooking style, regional cuisine or treasured ingredient to enjoy a new, hyper-focussed eating experience Words TONY NAYLOR 62 July 2022 Omagazine.com
discover restaurants Most restaurants are generalists: be they French of ingredients is today evident in many European restaurants, or Chinese, seafood or vegan, brunch or dinner and Daisuke feels Japanese cooking will continue to influence fine spots, their menus blend national or global dining: “Less oil, calories and plenty of umami will get attention influences. But, for a minority of chefs and in coming years.” £190pp; roketsu.co.uk owners, food is all about specialisation, in a service style, regional cuisine or product. BANGING BAO This month, O salutes the deep-divers who, absorbed in their niches, enrich food for all. Little Bao Boy, Leeds Holidaying in Malaysia as a child, James Ooi remembers kneading bao dough with his dad’s Chinese- PIONEERING KAISEKI Malaysian family: “It’s a nostalgic food for me.” Since 2016, these buns have also been James’s professional calling as – at his Little Roketsu, London The Japanese influence on Western dining Bao Boy kiosks at North Brewing’s Leeds bar and its suburban is profound. Modern tasting menus, for example, owe a debt brewery – he has won over West Yorkshire with his A1 bao. Dough to kaiseki, a formal, multi-course Japanese dining style that has is proved overnight and rolled each morning, with fillings getting fascinated European chefs for decades. Trained at Yoshihiro similar care and attention. The brisket in James’s best-selling beef Murata’s three-Michelin-starred restaurant Kikunoi, Daisuke bao is marinated and slow-cooked for 14 hours in shaoxing Hayashi learned the principles of kaiseki from one of its masters, and now shares its holistic ethos at London’s Roketsu, a serene, minimalist counter-dining space (pictured, below). Daisuke’s use of exceptional micro-seasonal ingredients, exquisite plating and bespoke Kyoto crockery are recognisable kaiseki hallmarks. More abstract kaiseki guidance gives his cooking further rigour (for example, that food should engage guests’ five senses using five flavours: “saltiness, acidity, sweetness, bitterness, umami”). Across its 10 courses, Roketsu seeks to embody perfect balance in dishes such as Cornish crab, pear, air-dried onion, carrot, fennel, yuzu and dill, or smoked trout, horseradish miso and walnut. Daisuke describes himself as a humble interpreter of ingredients: “Not too much seasoning on a fresh, seasonal product. When I plate a dish, I never use the entire space.” Such respectful, precise treatment July 2022 Omagazine.com 63
clockwise from left The full spread of dishes at Pappy’s Smokehouse in Kendal, which includes Texan favourites such as smoked beef brisket, macaroni cheese and spicy pinto beans; Bundobust’s bright Indian street food includes egg bhurji and tarka dhal rice wine, ginger, soy, orange and garlic, then topped with crispy sausages, Pappy’s menu includes burgers, dogs and loaded fries. onions, sriracha mayo and cucumber. Such hits (see also the fried But do not expect pulled pork or brisket smothered in BBQ sauce. chicken bao made with thighs marinated in gochujang buttermilk) Texans love to showcase the ‘bark’ created by dry rubs instead. have spread Little Bao’s rep beyond Leeds. James, whose parents “The bark,” says Robin, “holds most of the flavour.” Mains from ran a noodle bar in Middlesbrough, operates several delivery £10; pappystexasbarbeque.co.uk kitchens nationally and a new kiosk at York’s Spark. Working with a Yorkshire bakery, he’s also developed a flour that produces STREET FOOD STARS “super fluffy” bao. For, as Britain falls for these buns, the good stuff is increasingly “like gold dust”. From £5; littlebaoboy.com Bundobust, across northern England Raised in a Bradford deli-café renowned for its Gujarati farsan (or snacks), Bundobust TOP TEXAN BBQ co-owner Mayur Patel always preferred these “little bits” – the samosas and kachori – to big bowls of curry. He craves “a medley Pappy’s Smokehouse, Kendal Back in Texas “BBQ was a family of flavours and textures” in every meal. “I hate every mouthful thing,” says Robin Perris. Robin’s grandpa, a director at a local meat being the same.” Consequently, while there are a couple of market, was, with her father and uncle, an avid competitor in BBQ stew-adjacent curries on Bundo’s menu – such as its excellent cook-offs, where success inspired Robin’s dad (known to Robin tarka dhal or chole saag – these hip bar-canteen venues in Leeds, as pappy) to launch a mobile BBQ business. Years later – and Liverpool and Manchester major on Indian street foods. They thousands of miles away in Cumbria – Robin’s love of low-and- serve stellar craft beers with pots of sublime, multi-layered bhel slow, hot-smoked meat is undimmed. Having previously produced puri and chaat (like vibrant, savoury, carb-rich salads), sweetcorn wholesale smoked meats under the Pappy’s brand, Robin created chevdo dry-fried with peanuts and spices, scrambled egg bhurji an outdoor restaurant last year at Pappy’s Kendal smokehouse and bhatura bread, or that Mumbai train station classic, vada pav and, in May, opened a nearby taco bar. “In Texas,” explains Robin, – spicy mashed potato, deep-fried in a bun. “For a lot of people, “if it’s not cooked on wood, it’s not BBQ. And if you’re going to do default Indian means curry,” says Mayur. “I like to challenge that. our style – low and slow, 100% offset – naked flames never touch We represent India in a different light.” Dishes £2.75-£7.25; the meat.” Instead, you must maintain a steady temperature in the bundobust.com huge, custom-built pits where Robin typically smokes half a tonne of meat per session. When smoking Pappy’s heavily marbled, BLISTERING BASQUE USDA Black Angus brisket (the one meat Robin imports: “Like gold, it always sells out”), those smoking sessions can take 18 Baratxuri, Ramsbottom, Bury Talk to Joe Botham about hours. As well as platters of ribs or Texas ‘hotlink’ spicy beef northern Spain and he lights up at memories of “mind-blowing” clams at Bilbao’s Kirol; distinctive soft, gooey tortilla at Bar Nestor in San Sebastián; or whole grilled turbot at iconic asador Elkano. The Baratxuri co-owner has eaten with and learned from the Basque Country’s best and, back at his restaurant on the edge of Pennine Lancashire, he and head chef Yvonne Lumb translate that experience into a sensational menu of cangrejo crab fritters, burnt 64 July 2022 Omagazine.com
discover restaurants Basque cheesecake and wood-grilled txuleton – the 1kg mega- I’LL HAVE THE SPECIAL, PLEASE! steaks of ex-dairy cattle (in this case, premium Rubia Gallega, over 12 years old at slaughter) for which the Basque Country is Ten more kitchens that go deep in one delicious area of food: renowned. In fact, Joe is a specialist twice over, having originally done a similar number on Andalusian cooking at his neighbouring Flat Iron, London restaurant Levanter. His latest coup for both restaurants has been £12 steaks for all, utilising this overlooked feather blade cut; to secure a source of bluefin tuna (sustainably caught in traditional flatironsteak.co.uk almadraba nets) from near Tarifa on Spain’s southern Med coast: “It’s the most unbelievable thing you’ve ever seen or tasted – the The Spärrows, Manchester fat is unreal. We’re serving the belly like txuleton – a big steak on Central-Euro dumplings and pasta, from spätzle to pierogi; the bone with fried potatoes and salsa verde. That’s the future.” thesparrows.me Pintxos, £4.75-£6; txuleton, £60; baratxuri.co.uk Humble Chicken, London Yakitori using every part of the bird (liver, thigh, achilles and more); humblechickenuk.com La Cuina, Cardiff Montserrat Prat’s homage to the food of her native Catalonia; lacuina.co.uk Max’s Sandwich Shop, London A restaurant where all Max Halley’s magic happens between slices of focaccia; maxssandwichshop.com Tharavadu, Leeds A delicious dive into light, sensitively spiced Keralan cooking; tharavadurestaurants.com PHOTOGRAPH: HOWARD SHOOTER Maremma, London Named after a gastronomically treasured corner of its region of focus, Tuscany; maremmarestaurant.com Träkol, Gateshead Live fire specialists, adept at anything from pig’s head to grilled scallops; bytheriverbrew.co Beza, London Exploring Ethiopia’s rich, religiously observant repertoire of vegan food; follow on Instagram @bezaethio Homage, Manchester Intimate space for artisan cheeses, deluxe chutneys and paired wines; woodrestaurantgroup.com anti-clockwise from right The Original Gangster sandwich at Max’s Sandwich Shop in London; Baratxuri’s Joe Botham and the restaurant’s wood-fired beef; butterflied sea bream at Baratxuri, with salsa verde and bilbaína (garlic, chilli, oil and vinegar) July 2022 Omagazine.com 65
pro vs punter Critic Eileen Twum and O reader Pippa Mullins give their verdicts on this Arcade Food Hall globally inspired food hall on London’s Oxford Street, with a menu featuring dishes from a variety of street food spots Eileen Twum is a Our pro says But, if you’re looking for a filling dish, the Bouddha restaurant critic and crispy pork noodles from the Nepali street food stall start-up executive Mere weeks after its glitzy Instagram-friendly opening, Tipan Tapan – noodles with pork mince tossed in soy who’s part of Black word has definitely got out about Arcade Food Hall, sauce, garlic and chilli – are very moreish and tasty. Book, a platform for because it’s absolutely heaving and vibing, even at 7.30pm black and non-white on a Tuesday. As old-school UK garage is playing in the From the many dishes we tried, two really stood out. people working in background, we’re shown to our table in the main dining The first is a starter, the BBQ chicken wings from Hero. hospitality and food area – we were lucky to book easily online. I’d strongly Seasoned, roasted chicken wings are drenched in a divine media. Follow her on advise everyone to book ahead, otherwise you may find butter masala sauce, with mild chilli lifting the dish. Flaky Instagram @eix.leen. yourself very kindly turned away. masala paratha to mop up the sauce is also a must. The Arcade Food Hall team has created an efficient The second dish is a dessert – one my low-sugar and operation for such a massive space, without it feeling cold lactose-intolerant pal risked everything to try. The or mechanical. There’s something for everyone, with nine strawberries and cream trifle from Jelladrome features kitchens and a fully loaded bar, so bring friends if you want gloriously wobbly strawberry jelly on a biscuit base with to try a bunch of stuff. My dining pal and I made our joint a scoop of ice cream on top. Bits of meringue and decisions from various locations, then ordered and paid strawberry sauce bring a fun eton mess-style element for our meal via the QR code on the paper menu. to it. This is the perfect British dessert. Our pink gin and tonic arrives, and we attack the dishes Bill for two including service: £68.63 that come as they’re ready from the kitchens. And, for the Atmosphere: 8 most part, they’re all great. Even the weakest dish we Service: 9 ordered – the Nashville hot chicken sandwich that lacked Food: 9 in comparative flavour and intensity where it came to the Total: 26/30 chilli heat – is still a good option for when you’re hankering for some meat between bread. 66 July 2022 Omagazine.com
discover restaurant review You’ll find Arcade Food Hall just steps away from Tottenham Court Road Underground station, under the Centre Point building. The food hall – formerly known as Arcade Food Theatre – has been transformed by JKS Restaurants, the group behind fan favourites such as Gymkhana, Hoppers, Berenjak and Bao. It’s now a space containing nine kitchens showcasing various cuisines, a main bar and negroni bar on the lower level, and a southern Thai restaurant on the mezzanine level. Dishes start from £3 for a brown butter cake from Provisions, and range up to £40 for omekasi by Sushi Kamon. arcadefoodhall.com Pippa Mullins is Our punter says There were very few off notes: the chicken MO:MO a civil servant from from Tipan Tapan was perhaps a casualty of the food Southwark in London. As a food hall sceptic, I initially had mixed feelings about hall format, with the dumplings’ more subtle, peanutty She eats out once a Arcade Food Hall but its elevated mini-restaurant formula, flavours somewhat drowned out by our other choices. week, loves Indian lively atmosphere and adventurous food quickly won Similarly, Shatta & Toum’s fattoush salad was too heavy food and has a serious me over. Table service from the international kitchens, on the vinegar. While I’d wholeheartedly recommend Magnum mini ice including Nepali, Indonesian and American options, Jelladrome’s Penny Licks ice cream – particularly the juicy cream habit that removes the hassle of queuing and allows you to mix blackcurrant sorbet – nearly a tenner for three small developed during and match dishes to your heart’s content. scoops felt overpriced. lockdown. The décor is airy and sophisticated – dark wood, an Service was good, with plates delivered and removed Art Deco-style bar and floor-to-ceiling windows – while speedily. But, as dedicated plate-scrapers, we would have the DJ’s millennial-friendly tunes and arcade games stop preferred to linger longer over some. Neatly combining things from feeling too formal. the restaurant and food hall experiences, Arcade Food Hall mostly manages to capture the best of both – I’m We kicked things off with two stylishly presented looking forward to a return visit. cocktails: an old fashioned and Venetian spritz. Then we chose six plates to share. The stand-outs were the bebek Bill for two, including service: £90.01 goreng from Bebek! Bebek! – a tender duck leg set off by Atmosphere: 8 a zesty sambal korek sauce – and batata harra, a potato Service: 7 side from Shatta & Toum that was perfectly crispy and Food: 8 robustly spiced. Honourable mentions go to Manna’s Total: 23/30 jalapeño popper fried chicken bun, which layered honey-glazed chicken with pickles for a sour pop; and Hero’s wagyu keema pao, a rich, masala-spiced beef that we stuffed into buttered buns. July 2022 Omagazine.com 67
20 YEARS Of sliding, hiding, tasting and basting. Of hosting, sharing, enjoying. Trailblazing and pioneering. Opening up new worlds. Breaking the rules. Creating incredible dishes, and making wonderful memories. Here’s to 20 years of opening like no other. With the world’s only disappearing oven door. NEFF Slide&Hide¨
CRAVING The restaurant dishes we can’t wait to eat again. Share your favourites with us* Joy sticks Pudding time Fishy tales Dai Chi, London W1 The Star Inn The City, York Wyatt & Jones, Broadstairs This Japanese Soho restaurant specialises The iconic Yorkshire pudding takes centre Enjoy sea views at this Viking Bay in delicious little deep-fried bites on skewers stage in this starter filled with sweet onions, restaurant along with the seafood on (kushikatsu) that diners can order individually root vegetables and ale gravy, served the plate, including Cornish cod, warm or as part of a chef’s omakase menu. with fresh horseradish. seaweed tartare sauce and cockles. @daichi.london @thestarinnthecityyork @wyattandjones Grow your own Season’s best Cream of the crop Wilsons, Bristol Cook House, Newcastle upon Tyne Sessions Arts Club, London EC1 A bistro with a focus on sustainability – local Inventive, seasonal small plates such as this Florence Knight matches rich, creamy panna produce and ingredients from the kitchen broccoli, romesco, polenta, ricotta and cotta with seasonal fruits – here, sweet and garden feature on the menu in dishes such as dukkah are the main attraction at Anna zesty blood orange provides a stunning salted vanilla, rose and Wye Valley rhubarb. Hedworth’s casual riverside room. contrast in flavour and colour. @wilsonsbristol @cookhouse_anna @sessionsartsclub *What are YOU craving? Share your favourite eats on social media using #imcraving and by email at [email protected] for a chance to receive £100 towards a restaurant on your hit list. For more restaurant news and recommendations, visit Omagazine.com/restaurants. July 2022 Omagazine.com 69
O sStaeveel 2‘fo0r%evoenr’ sptaaninsless reader Refresh your cookware and create stunning dishes at home offer with these Samuel Groves classic stainless-steel tri-ply chef pans These versatile multipurpose pans from Samuel Groves are Prices everything a dedicated home cook could ask for. Available in three sizes – 20cm, 24cm and 26cm – they are perfect £56start from for rustling up new dishes, family favourites and tasty sauces. You can also cook rice to perfection, poach eggs or sauté vegetables. Made in the heart of the Midlands, the stunning brushed stainless steel exteriors and interiors are created when the pans are skilfully hand-finished. The non-stick pans also benefit from two coats of high-quality British-made non-stick. These pans look striking, are comfortable to hold and use, and oven-safe, too. They are easy to clean by hand and are exceptionally sturdy, having been designed for a lifetime of everyday use. Additional peace of mind is offered by the Samuel Groves’ unique Pan for Life refurbishment service. Find out more about the unique scheme at samuelgroves.com. With quality assured, the environment considered, and savings to be made, there is no better time to upgrade your saucepan collection with a set of forever pans. As a special offer for O readers, you can now save 20% across the range of classic stainless-steel tri-ply chef pans, including non-stick. HOW TO ORDER Don’t miss out on this limited-time offer. Save 20% by visiting samuelgroves.com, search for ‘classic stainless-steel tri-ply chef pans’, add to basket and use the code OLIVECHEF at checkout to receive your exclusive discount. TERMS AND CONDITIONS Offer closes 31 August 2022. Prices are based on website prices at the time of printing. Offer does not include copper chef pans. Orders over £50 qualify for free postage and packaging, orders under £50 will cost an additional £3.95 for delivery on the UK mainland. For orders outside the UK, visit samuelgroves.com for more information. Products are made to order and we aim to despatch within 28 working days. If you are not completely satisfied with your order, please return goods in mint condition, sealed in the original packaging for a refund within 30 days of receiving your order (postage costs will not be refunded unless faulty). A signature is required on delivery. Your contract for supply of goods is with Samuel Groves Ltd. 70 July 2022 Omagazine.com
discover wine Cava’s sparkling comeback Spanish producers are upping their game with some exceptional wines Not as costly as champagne, nor as popular as prosecco, Unlike most proseccos, which get their bubbles from Kate Hawkings is a writer and cava is often overlooked when it come to sparkling a secondary fermentation in large metal tanks, all cavas wine consultant. Her debut wine. For many years Spain’s trademark fizz was rather must undergo this process in the bottle, as is the way book, Aperitif, was published frowned upon, seen only as cheap and cheerful pop for in Champagne. The longer they spend ageing in contact in 2018. Follow her on Twitter parties but, while it still gives bargain bubbles crisper and with the resulting sediment, called the lees, the fuller @katehawkings. less sweet than most proseccos, there are now many and richer the flavours will be when the lees are more serious and complex cavas that can be counted removed and the finished wine is ready for sale. Nine Omagazine.com among the world’s best and most interesting sparklers. months on the lees is the legal minimum for cava but this can be as much as three years or more. • Check out our best bargain Most cava is made in the Penedès region, immediately supermarket buys with meal to the west of Barcelona, whose dynamic wine-making Some maverick makers are reviving the ancestrale pairings at Omagazine.com/ scene has improved the range and quality hugely in the method, when bubbles are the result of the wine being supermarket-wine-awards past few years. Large producers have really upped their bottled before the first fermentation is complete, known games in making fantastic value cavas in different styles, as pet nats (pétillant-naturel). while a growing number of boutique wineries are embracing low-intervention methods to make wines of Cavas tend to be very good with food – think tapas character and distinction, often using traditional grape and you won’t go far wrong. Crisps, nuts and ceviches or varieties and techniques from the region. The hot, dry sashimi are great with simpler wines, while those with climate suits organic and biodynamic viticulture, so it’s more age love anything fried – fish or perhaps croquetas. not surprising that those wines are common here. Pet-nats can carry more robust flavours and make a fine companion to a summery centrepiece paella. five spanish cavas to try Partida Creus Bocchoris Brut NV Pere Ventura Specially Selected Vilarnau 0% VN Rojo Reserva Vintage Cava 2017 Sparkling Rosé £17, pipwine.co.uk £22.35, juicedwines.co.uk A blend of traditional of cava £12.99, Waitrose £7.49, Aldi £6.99, amazon.co.uk A rare red pet-nat, made A rich, toasty fizz that’s Fantastic value for this A pretty organic rosé for grapes (xarel-lo, macabeo spent 18 months on the vintage cava: sprightly those that want the fun with a blend of indigenous and parellada) aged for 20 lees and could pass for grapes fermented with months in some of Spain’s a decent champagne at bubbles and lots of of fizz without the hit native yeasts. Light and oldest cellars and bottled twice the price. A decadent green apple and lemony of alcohol. Summer juicy with a sour-cherry without any added sulphites. match for the smoked freshness with an elegant pudding fruitiness with crunch and a bit of Very elegant and poised, mackerel caesar salad with pink grapefruit zest, it’s farmyard funk; a fine with soft, creamy bubbles. crispy onions and seedy mineral finish. Try it made for drinking on partner for the paprika- Lovely with the crab and with the squid with chilli crusted hake on p18. prawn cocktail rolls on p37. croutons on p30. a hot sunny day. and garlic on p42. July 2022 Omagazine.com 71
MeaTHsEure Step into summer with spicy margaritas, beer cocktails and ice cider Words HANNAH GUINNESS @hannahguinness Drinks decoder: Spicy margarita SHOOT DIRECTOR: FREDDIE STEWART. PHOTOGRAPH: MIKE ENGLISH. STYLIST: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLIST: KATIE MARSHALL what are sour beers? Feel free to swap the tequila for mezcal to add Unlike the bitter, hop-driven beers that most extra smoky flavour to this cocktail. people drink, sours are more similar in taste to cider or dry white wine. Sour beers use a mixture 5 MINUTES | SERVES 1 | EASY of yeasts and bacteria that results in a distinctively sour taste. Methods vary – some brewers will mild chilli powder ½ tsp use cultivated yeasts, while Belgian lambics are lime juice 25ml, plus the zest of ½ a lime left in open vats and rely on microorganisms in (reserve one squeezed lime wedge) the air to ferment the beer. Sours are a broad blanco or reposado tequila 50ml category and flavours vary, from the briny tang triple sec (we used Cointreau) 25ml of gose and light tartness of a Berliner weisse hot sauce a dash to the fruitiness of a Flanders red ale, or the bone-dry, champagne-like fizz of gueze. 1 Mix together the chilli powder, Try it: Vault City Triple Fruited Mango (£3.50/ lime zest and 1 tsp of fine sea salt, 440ml, Tesco). A fresh, juicy sour, rammed with and sprinkle on a saucer. Rub the mango flavour and aromas, gentle tanginess reserved lime wedge around the rim and a slightly saline edge. of a chilled margarita or coupe glass, then dip in the chilli salt to cover the rim. Put the lime juice, tequila, triple sec and hot sauce in a cocktail shaker with ice, and shake well. Strain into the glass and serve. O drinks Sign up for the latest drinks trends delivered straight to your inbox. newsletter Create your own cocktail bar at home with expert knowledge, exclusive cocktail recipes and unique drinks hacks each week from our essential drinks newsletter. Scan the QR code to sign up. 72 July 2022 Omagazine.com
discover drinks 3 to try... tequilas Drink of the month: cider Código 1530 Añejo Mijenta Espolòn Blanco Tequila Cider has been made in Britain for centuries (£86.02/70cl, Reposado Tequila but its popularity has waxed and waned. The masterofmalt.com) (£20/70cl, Majestic) 20th century saw the rise of mass-produced (£58.75/70cl, A great-value, unaged cider, often made from diluted concentrated tequila, smooth and sweet, apple juice and bulked out with water, sugar, Aged for 18 months in The Whisky Exchange) with lime peel notes and preservatives and other additives (cider a subtly peppery finish. legally requires a minimum of just 35% apple Californian cabernet Aged for up to six months in Easy-drinking, this works juice). In contrast to the meteoric rise of well in most cocktails. craft beer, cider has struggled with an image barrels, agave herbaceous oak and acacia casks, this problem – all too often seen as a cheap, low-quality, sickly sweet drink. oomph is matched with has delicate vanilla, honey This has changed in recent years with a backbone of caramel, and floral grassy notes. Use a wave of exciting new producers that champion the sophistication of the oakiness and spice. Sip neat to give a margarita depth. category, creating seasonal, small-batch, naturally fermented ciders made with 100% or try in a manhattan. apple juice that rival wine and beer when it comes to complexity – and often in the Home bar hacks: process doing sterling work when it comes beer cocktails to reviving lesser-known British apple varieties and conserving ancient orchards. Perfect host Beer makes for a versatile cocktail ingredient. Try these four ideas... Cider is now made across the UK but Claro orange margarita glasses Mix wheat beer and Aperol for a spin on a traditionally there is a rough geographical spritz; or IPA with Campari for a hoppy, divide when it comes to style. Producers in (£24.50/set of two, Oliver Bonas) bittersweet drink; add a dash of espresso and the west (Somerset, Devon, Herefordshire, Serve your spicy margarita in style with crème de cacao to stout; and mix lager with Monmouthshire, Gloucestershire and these retro glasses. As they’re a little bigger a little worcestershire sauce, hot sauce and Worcestershire) make ciders from bitter, than a classic coupe they’re also great for lime to make a spicy michelada, served in tannic cider apples – either in a blend or as drinks with big garnishes, as well as frozen a glass with a chilli-salt rim. a single-varietal drink. There are hundreds of cider apple varieties, many of them margaritas, daiquiris or sgroppinos. evocatively named, from Kingston Black and Somerset Redstreak to Foxwhelp and Dabinett. Ciders made in the West Country style tend to be full bodied and richly fruity, with complex tannins. While the West Country has long been associated with cider, there’s an equally robust tradition in eastern counties such as Kent, Sussex, Suffolk and East Anglia. Here, mainly sweeter apples are used, resulting in crisp, sharp, acidic ciders. Cider has also traditionally been made across Europe, from Brittany in France to Galicia in Spain. Try it: Biddenden Ice Cider 2021 (£12.90/50cl, biddendenvineyards.com). Made by freezing freshly pressed apple juice, this ice cider has intense sweetness balanced by lively acidity and gentle tannins. Delicious with a cheeseboard. July 2022 Omagazine.com 73
cook like a local Explore the many complex flavours of this eastern Mediterranean Cyprus island, from smoky mangal grills to halloumi and olive-stuffed breads Words, recipes and photographs MELIZ BERG Cyprus is a cultural and culinary melting pot. The impact of Turkish and Greek gastronomy is undeniable but it has its own distinct repertoire of recipes influenced by Eastern cuisines. The ingredients used in many Cypriot dishes can be traced back to Arabic and Asian cooking where spices such as sweet cinnamon, aniseed and cumin, and fresh produce such as jute mallow, okra and taro root provide the backbone to some of its unique dishes. Cyprus enjoys a hot climate for most of the year, with a coastline that delivers an abundance of fish and seafood, such as sea bass, bream and octopus. Home-grown produce includes wild asparagus, white courgettes and black-eyed beans. Bitter oranges and bergamots are preserved whole in jams, and citrus fruits are made into cordials (limonata), with the thickly sliced zests, along with walnuts and watermelon rinds made into spoon sweets (macun). Ripe red watermelons are rarely eaten without uncooked slices of halloumi (sheep/goat’s milk cheese), with the whey made into a Cypriot ricotta known as nor or anari. Uncooked halloumi can also be finely grated, mixed with dried mint and sprinkled over dishes such as magarına bulli (pasta and chicken). Mint (dried and fresh) is used in salad dressings and meze such as cacık, and it’s also used to flavour savoury bakes such as hellimli zeytinli (halloumi and black olive bread). 74 July 2022 Omagazine.com
PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/ISTOCK EDITORIAL/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, WUNDERVISUALS/E+/GETTY Türlü (roasted vegetable stew) discover cook like a local Türlü translates as ‘all kinds of ’ and refers to the “bitter oranges assortment of vegetables that are thrown together in this and bergamots dish. The vegetables are roasted, like an oven-baked ratatouille, with a colourful combination of herbs and are preserved sweet, warm spices. It’s Turkish in origin and is one of whole in jams” those dishes that can be eaten hot, warm or cold (it’s known as a zeytinyağlı – ‘with olive oil’ – dish in Turkey). 2 HOURS | SERVES 6-8 | EASY | LC aubergine 1 large courgettes 2 onions 2 large red peppers or Romano peppers 2 large green peppers 4 large plum tomatoes 4 large, ripe garlic 4 large cloves, peeled and bashed olive oil 50ml ground cloves ½ tsp ground coriander ½ tsp paprika ½ tsp dried oregano 1 tsp sea salt flakes ¾ tsp whole black peppercorns ground to make ¾ tsp vegetable stock cube 1 tomato purée 2 tbsp Turkish sweet red pepper paste (tatlı biber salçası) 1 tbsp lemon juice 1 tbsp plain flour 1 tbsp cinnamon stick ½ bay leaf 1 large extra-virgin olive oil 1-2 tbsp 1 Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. Cut the aubergine and courgettes into 3-4cm chunks, then lay out flat on baking sheets or large plates. Sprinkle evenly with 1 tsp of fine sea salt then leave for 15 minutes to release their juices. Pat dry with some kitchen paper and put in a large, deep roasting tray. 2 Cut the onions, peppers and tomatoes into chunks, ensuring they are similar in size to the other vegetables. Add to the roasting tray along with the garlic. In a bowl, mix together the olive oil, cloves, coriander, paprika, oregano and half of the sea salt flakes and cracked black pepper, then stir the mixture into all of the vegetables, using clean hands to toss everything together. Ensure that all of the vegetables are coated and spread them out evenly. 3 Bake for 30 minutes (stirring gently halfway through) while you prepare the remaining ingredients. Dissolve the stock cube, tomato purée and pepper paste in 600ml of just-boiled water in a heatproof jug. 4 After 30 minutes, remove the roasting tray from the oven, gently stir the vegetables, then drizzle over the lemon juice and sprinkle over the flour, remaining sea salt flakes and cracked black pepper. Nestle the cinnamon stick and bay leaf into the mixture and carefully pour over the stock. Increase the oven to 220C/fan 200C/gas 7 and return the roasting tray to the oven for a further 45 minutes, gently stirring halfway through. Remove the tray from the oven and let the vegetables cool until warm. Drizzle over the extra-virgin olive oil just before serving. PER SERVING (8) 182 kcals | fat 10.3G saturates 1.6G | carbs 15G | sugars 11.4G fibre 7.2G | protein 3.9G | salt 1.5G July 2022 Omagazine.com 75
discover cook like a local Hellimli zeytinli kek Izgara köfte (grilled meat patties) (halloumi and black olive cake) 30 MINUTES + CHILLING | MAKES 12 | EASY 1 HOUR | SERVES 8-10 | EASY | V onion 1 large, coarsely grated olive oil 3 tbsp, plus 200ml and extra for the tin flat-leaf parsley 50g, finely chopped onion 1 small, finely chopped minced lamb 400g eggs 3 minced beef 400g whole milk 250ml Turkish sweet red pepper paste (tatlı biber salçası) 3 tbsp self-raising flour 400g olive oil 1 tbsp baking powder 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp caster sugar 1½ tsp paprika 1 tsp pitted black olives 165g pul biber ½ tsp halloumi 200g, cut into 2½cm cubes, plus 25g, finely grated dried mint 2 tsp coriander 4 tbsp, finely chopped whole black peppercorns ground to make 1½ tsp dried mint 2 tbsp sea salt flakes 1½ tsp sesame seeds 1 tsp flatbreads, salad, hummus and chips to serve nigella seeds 1 tsp 1 Put the grated onion in a sieve and squeeze out the juice 1 Heat the oven to 200C/ fan 180C/gas 6. Line a 23cm springform before putting in a large bowl. Add all the other ingredients and, cake tin with baking paper and brush with a little oil. with clean hands, mix well. Divide and shape the mixture into 2 Put a large frying pan over a medium heat and add 3 tbsp of the 12 patties and lay them on a baking sheet. olive oil. Once hot, add the onion and turn down the heat. Cook 2 Put the baking sheet in the fridge and chill the patties for 1 hour, the onion for 12-15 minutes or until softened, then remove to a removing them from the fridge 30 minutes before you’re ready to plate to cool. cook them. To barbecue, make sure the coals are hot but mostly 3 In a bowl, whisk the eggs, then add the milk and 200ml of olive white and the grill is also very hot. Cook the patties for 6-8 minutes oil, and stir. Sift in half of the flour and all the baking powder, then on each side, turning carefully for even cooking. Try not to turn add 1 tsp of salt and the sugar, and whisk together. Sift in the rest them over until they have charred and sealed on the underside of the flour and whisk well. Use a spatula to fold in the onion, to prevent them from sticking to the grill. olives, halloumi cubes, coriander and mint until combined. 3 Alternatively, preheat the grill to medium-high. Line a baking 4 Pour the mixture into the tin, sprinkle over half of the sesame and sheet with foil and lay a grill rack on top. Evenly space the patties nigella seeds, the grated halloumi and then the remaining seeds. on the rack and cook for 6-8 minutes on each side, turning a 5 Bake on the bottom shelf for 40–50 minutes. After 40 minutes, couple of times. Serve in flatbreads with salad, hummus and chips. insert a cocktail stick into the middle of the cake – if it comes out clean, it’s ready. If not, give it another few minutes in the oven. PER SERVING 166 kcals | fat 11.3G | saturates 4.6G 6 Leave to cool slightly in the tin, then remove and cool fully on carbs 2.2G | sugars 1.7G | fibre 1G | protein 13.5G | salt 0.8G a wire rack for an hour before serving. PER SERVING (10) 524 kcals | fat 36.8G Words and recipes extracted from Meliz’s Kitchen: saturates 8.9G | carbs 34.4G | sugars 2.7G Simple Turkish-Cypriot Comfort Food and Fresh fibre 2.3G | protein 12.8G | salt 2.2G Family Feasts by Meliz Berg (£25, Ebury Press). 76 July 2022 Omagazine.com
things I love about 10Nepal Rajiv KC, head chef and owner of Rajiv’s Kitchen, a pop-up restaurant supper club in London, was born and raised in Nepal. He explains what makes the food of this country so special Nepal, a landlocked South Asian PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, FOTOVOYAGER/E+/GETTY, NEPAL PHOTOS/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO nation, is usually known for its Himalayan mountains, especially Mount Everest, and as the birth place of Buddha. It is also a nation of 126 ethnic groups with 123 languages, so for a country that is culturally rich and diverse, Nepalese cuisine can’t be put into one box. The unique culture of Nepal can be reflected in the food it has to offer. What it lacks in geographical size, it makes up for with its bold, big, beautiful flavours. Follow Rajiv on Instagram @rajivskitchen. 1Daal-bhaat 2Ghongi Daal-bhaat (lentils and rice) is a staple Ghongi is a snail dish and more of Nepal. Nepalis eat it for lunch, dinner famous in the terai (plain) part and sometimes for breakfast, too. It usually of Nepal. With Nepal being a landlocked comes as lentils and rice with seasonal greens, country and hence deprived of seashores tarkaari (a vegetable dish) and achaar (a pickle and oceans, Nepalis rely on freshwater fish condiment, usually tomato-based). The dish and shellfish. Ghongi is popular due to how varies region to region but using knives and its prepared. You get snails from the fields forks is frowned upon, so you have to enjoy during monsoon season and they are this dish with your hands. cooked in lots of garlic and in a broth-like curry sauce including heaps of spring 78 July 2022 Omagazine.com onions. Make sure to dive into a deep broth of ghongi with your bare hands as cutlery is a big no.
from top, clockwise discover nepal Lentils and rice are a staple in Nepal; a temple 3Chyang in Bhaktapur; Ju ju dhau In bhattis (small local bars) you will find chyang on the is a creamy yogurt dish menu. An alcoholic beverage, it’s home-brewed and made of popular at festivals; Nepali fermented rice. Traditionally served in a tall brass mug and local to dumplings, momos are Kathmandu valley and its neighbouring villages, it is also widely the unofficial national drunk in the mountain regions to keep oneself warm. dish of Nepal; gundruk is a type of fermented 4Ju ju dhau green, usually spinach; Ju ju dhau means ‘king of yogurt’ in Nepali. Mainly ghongi are snails cooked produced in Bhaktapur town (part of Kathmandu valley), in a broth-like curry sauce; ju ju dhau is very creamy in texture with a subtle sweetness, and Machhapuchhre mountain is a must-have at festivals and gatherings. Think of rich creamy in the Annapurna range panna cotta but freshly made and sold in big clay bowls. 5Gundruk and sinki Gundruk and sinki are made by fermenting the green leaves of a vegetable (normally spinach). They are made by storing in a hole in the ground, covering and leaving to ferment for two to three months at the end of summer, ready for winter. They have a sour note and are used as a tarkari (vegetable curry). Both gundruk and sinki are mostly cooked with bhatmaas (soya beans) for extra flavour. They are mostly made in the mountain regions of Nepal. 6Khasi ko maasu Arguably the most famous curry to come out of Nepal. Khasi ko maasu is a goat curry. In Nepali, there is no word for curry, so if it is a vegetable curry, it’s called ‘tarkaari’ and if it’s meat curry, it’s called ‘maasu’. In reverse translation, tarkaari means ‘any vegetable’ and maasu means ‘any meat’. Goat is one of the most expensive meats in Nepal and is sought after at festivals. 7 Tongba Another home-brewed alcohol drink that locals adore because of the depth of flavour from fermented millet grain. Very popular in Kathmandu valley and in mountain regions, it’s traditionally served in a bamboo cup. It is usually drunk in the winter as you top it up with hot water. 8Dhedo Dhedo is another staple of Nepal. Made with millet grain with a polenta-like consistency, it’s eaten with daal or a side of achaar (pickle). It is also a great source of fibre. 9Momos These dumplings are the unofficial national dish of Nepal. They say there are more momos pasal (little shops) in Kathmandu alone than all the McDonald’s combined in North America. Usually served with a spicy tomato dipping sauce, buff momos (made of water buffalo meat) are very popular. 10Thakali thaali Thakali is one of the ethnic groups of Nepal, known for its delicious food. Thakali cuisine has grown very popular, with many restaurants appearing in Kathmandu valley. One of my favourites is dhedo/rice, daal, thakali tarkaari, pickle condiment and greens. Thaali differs from region to region. July 2022 Omagazine.com 79
discover nepal Omagazine.com • Discover more Nepalese recipes on Aalo ko achaar (potato and Omagazine.com, including chicken cucumber pickle salad) choyela and Nepali spiced fruit and nut tart. 25 MINUTES | SERVES 4 AS A SIDE | EASY | GF It’s really hard to put this vegan dish into a category as it’s a fresh pickle that is used as a condiment or side salad. In our household it is eaten as a main meal because it is simple, easy yet delicious. This dish is very popular in Nepal, especially during festivities. Best served cold or at room temperature, it is perfect during spring and summer, and can be stored for up to three days in the fridge. You can add fresh, blanched peas to it as well. potatoes 250g, peeled and cut into chunks cucumber 1, cut into chunks sesame seeds 100g ground cumin ½ tsp ground coriander 1/2 tsp garam masala 1/2 tsp (optional) hot chilli powder ¼-1/2 tsp whole black peppercorns ground to make 1/2 tsp limes 1-2, juiced (adjust to taste) timmur powder or sichuan pepper 1 tsp (optional) sunflower or vegetable oil 50ml fenugreek or cumin seeds 1 tbsp green chillies 1-2, finely chopped ground turmeric 1 tsp coriander a handful, chopped finely 1 Boil the potatoes and, once cooked, drain and transfer them to a big bowl. Add the cucumber. 2 In a small frying pan, toast the sesame seeds over a medium heat – stir constantly as they need to be evenly browned. Once toasted, cool slightly, then use a high-powered blender or food processor to blitz them to a powder. 3 Add the ground sesame seeds, cumin, ground coriander, garam masala (if using), chilli powder, pepper, the juice of 1 lime, timmur (if using) and a big pinch of salt to the potato and cucumber mixture. Mix well. 4 Heat the oil in a small pan over a high heat. Once the oil is hot, add the fenugreek seeds. Once they darken slightly, turn off the heat, then add the chillies and ground turmeric. Immediately and carefully pour this over the potato and cucumber mixture. Add the fresh coriander. Wait a few minutes for the oil to cool down, then mix well. Add 50ml-100ml of water to make it saucy. Season with salt and more lime juice, if needed. PER SERVING 336 kcals | fat 28G saturates 4.2G | carbs 10.8G | sugars 1.7G fibre 4.5G | protein 8G | salt 0.1G 80 July 2022 Omagazine.com
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unwind Let chef Ben Tish welcome you round his vintage-style home kitchen, spend a free afternoon putting together a stunning three-course menu from canal barge restaurant Caravel, and master the ancient art of pickling July 2022 Omagazine.com 83
kitchens to covet a space to share Chef and cookbook author Ben Tish shows us round his eclectic kitchen in east London Photographs DAVID COTSWORTH 84 July 2022 Omagazine.com
unwind kitchen style I’m the author of cookbooks Grill, Smoke, BBQ; “my happiest memories of my Moorish; and, my latest, Sicilia; and chef and time spent in this kitchen are director at Cubitt House – a group of beautiful, enjoying weekend dinners with food-led central London dining pubs. nykeeta and the dogs” STYLING: AURELIEN FARJON I live in Limehouse, east London, with my wife the extra touches ourselves – old artwork, paint, have added an extension on the back and some Nykeeta and our two dogs, Piglet and Peanut. furniture and shelves. The process was very additional wall lights. We have an odd-shaped galley kitchen with a long, and we uncovered a lot of extra work that dining area, which leads out to the garden. needed doing to the floor and the electrics. There are many things that make this my We also had to remove the window to get the perfect kitchen: access to the garden – it’s great The kitchen is in an old fashioned, early cookers in. A two-month job turned into 14 for photographing food; it’s a place I happily Victorian style, which fits our old house – built in weeks with no kitchen access. sit and work or relax in, as well as cook; it’s 1882 – with some contemporary touches. It’s the on a different floor to the living room, so I heart of the house and we spend the most of our Our advice to anyone thinking of renovating can play music without interrupting the rest time there. It’s where I write my books and test their kitchen is to plan, plan and plan again. of the house; and the oven is perfect for my recipes. It’s also the dog zone. Ensure you get a great builder who can manage heavy cooking. the project, too – you only want to speak to one I can test recipes with ease there. I have person when you are stressed out. If we’d have My happiest memories of my time spent in everything to hand and just as I like it. But we done anything differently, we would possibly this kitchen are enjoying weekend dinners with also wanted a space that’s just a lovely place to Nykeeta and the dogs. be and to hang out together. I wanted a kitchen that was sympathetic to the house’s age while having a contemporary feel. Design inspirations included the kitchens in [furniture manufacturer] deVOL, the Cotswolds, Georgian and Victorian houses, and Farrow & Ball. We had an idea, got a designer to look at the cabinets and galley area, and then we added all July 2022 Omagazine.com 85
this page, clockwise from top left Ben’s kitchen combines vintage and antique pieces with modern touches for a warm, welcoming finish; Ben spends most of his time in the kitchen testing, writing and eating with his partner; the furniture aims to blend with the Victorian-era house Essential kitchen kit? Great knives, a Microplane grater, Le Creuset casserole, KitchenAid stand mixer and a pestle and mortar. Do you have any low-tech kitchen gadgets you couldn’t live without? Certainly. A meat hammer, lemon juicer and pastry brush. What’s always in your fridge? Lemons, wine, yogurt, vermouth, various berries, lots of vegetables and dog food. Is there a family dish you cook again and again? Chicken Milanese with parmesan, rocket, tomatoes and balsamic, and roasted Pink Fir potatoes on the side. Give us a recipe in a sentence, maybe something you eat when you’re on your own? Pan con tomate – warm toasted sourdough rubbed with garlic, extra-virgin olive oil and ripe seasonal tomatoes, finished with sea salt and pepper. Delicious. Can you share a clever shortcut, cheat or hack that makes entertaining more effortless? If I’m entertaining, I leave everything in pans or pots on the cooker with serving spoons so people can queue with a plate, help themselves to exactly what they want and then sit down. Its cuts out so much effort. People like it, too. Favourite cookbook? I’ve got lots but I do like a Diana Henry book when I’m cooking at home. I also like Asma Khan’s new book Ammu. Favourite restaurant? River Café, London. Favourite travel destination? Italy. 86 July 2022 Omagazine.com
1 unwind kitchen style 9 3 8 2 get the look 4 5 Inspired by Ben’s kitchen? Here’s how to channel it in your home 1 Iron hook rack, from £90, devolkitchens.co.uk 2 Pentamerous matte glass sphere satin brass pendant, £600, lightsoflondon.com 3 Blueprint No 50 paint, from £28, mylands.com 4 Smoked gold double toggle switch, £32.99, dowsingandreynolds.com 5 Sicily Azzurro large jug, £60, glassette.com 6 Tuscan fruit framed prints and mounts, set of four, £150, johnlewis.com 7 Painswick juniper engineered oak floor, £63.95 per m², luxuryflooringandfurnishings.co.uk 8 Bessie metal and wood industrial kitchen 10 trolley, £219, maisonsdumonde.com 9 Orange Twist wire basket, £34.99, trouva.com 10 Marshall Acton II wireless bluetooth speaker brown, £205.12, amazon.co.uk 6 7 July 2022 Omagazine.com 87
bolthole PHOTOGRAPHS: JAKE EASTHAM AND BRETT CHARLES The Rectory, Crudwell Comforting touches, classic dishes and refreshing cocktails make for a calming break at this contemporary country house hotel in Wiltshire What makes it unique? The Rectory’s relaxed approach reflects the owner’s desire to create the kind of place he’d like to escape to. His background in the music business is seen in cool touches throughout the hotel: pop art, great magazines and excellent cocktails. Communal areas in this Georgian house are delightfully lived-in and welcoming. If you’re lucky, you’ll meet Basil, the resident golden labrador. On the menu A pre-dinner snack of a gruyère and truffle toastie strikes a playful note. A roster of classic dishes are well executed and include crab and chilli linguine, Hampshire pork belly, Gloucestershire lamb with potato gratin, and loin of cod with mussel butter, alongside nostalgic puddings such as sticky toffee, eton mess and chocolate fondant. The calm, uncluttered dining room captures the light during the day, with doors opening out onto the fragrant hotel garden. After dark, it’s thoughtfully lit, encouraging you to linger over dinner. Breakfast features a bloody mary station, cold meats and cheeses, fantastic fruit compotes, and eggs, waffles and a full English breakfast. Highlights In summer, sipping a refreshing negroni sbagliato on a lounger next to the outdoor swimming pool is the place to be. Across the road, the hotel’s wooden-beamed Potting Shed pub is a year-round favourite, with a blackboard menu featuring a very generous pork chop with salsa verde and a rich cheese soufflé (see recipe, opposite) that are worth the visit alone. What you’ll want to recreate at home All 15 rooms in the house and the self-contained three-bedroom cottage (perfect for family or friend stays) ooze comfort. Think crisp linen, sheepskin rugs, leather armchairs and herringbone throws in a neutral colour palette, complemented by richer navy, mustard and rose fabrics. In the main house, there’s a mixture of bold modern art and vintage, squashy sofas with bursts of colour from the wildflower displays. B&B from £130, therectoryhotel.com 88 July 2022 Omagazine.com
unwind UK breaks Twice-baked cheese soufflé with spinach and wholegrain mustard You’ll need four dariole moulds for this recipe. 1 HOUR 30 MINUTES + COOLING | SERVES 4 AS A STARTER | A LITTLE EFFORT | V whole milk 250ml onion ½ small, finely chopped thyme 1 sprig unsalted butter 40g plain flour 40g Double Gloucester cheese 100g, grated english mustard 1 tsp eggs 3, separated chives a handful, snipped SAUCE double cream 200ml Double Gloucester cheese 100g, grated wholegrain mustard 1/2 tsp baby spinach 200g 1 Tip the milk, onion and thyme sprig into a pan, and bring to the boil. In a separate pan, melt the butter, then sprinkle in the flour and stir to make a roux. Strain the milk, discarding the onion and thyme, and slowly pour into the roux, whisking continuously until smooth. 2 Season with a pinch of salt, then add the cheese and continue to stir until it has completely melted and the sauce is silky smooth. Remove from the heat, stir in the mustard and cool for 30 minutes before whisking in the egg yolks. 3 Heat the oven to 160C/fan 140C/gas 3. Whisk the egg whites to stiff peaks using an electric whisk. Add half of the whites to the cheese mixture, carefully folding them in until well combined. Repeat the process with the remaining egg whites. 4 Put four dariole moulds into a deep baking tray and spray each generously with non-stick baking spray. Boil the kettle. Divide the soufflé mixture between the moulds, leaving a gap of a few millimetres from the rim of the moulds. 5 Transfer the baking tray to the oven, then pour enough just-boiled water from the kettle into the tray to come halfway up the sides of the moulds. Bake for 30 minutes, then open the oven door and bake for another 35 minutes. 6 Remove the tray from the oven, take the moulds out of the tray and cool for 10 minutes. Turn the oven up to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. 7 Meanwhile, for the sauce, heat the cream in a small pan until reduced by half. Stir in the cheese and mustard until smooth. Briefly cook the spinach in a pan of boiling water until wilted, then arrange into four piles on a baking tray. Turn the soufflés out onto the spinach beds, then pour over the sauce and cook in the oven for 8-10 minutes or until bubbling and golden. Serve scattered with chives. PER SERVING 675 kcals | fat 59.2G saturates 35.5G | carbs 12.3G | sugars 4.3G fibre 1.3G | protein 22.8G | salt 1.3G July 2022 Omagazine.com 89
advertisement feature Lime, mint and ginger cooler Ycionouvrirdtaitaioln 3 MINUTES | SERVES 1 | EASY Life is for enjoying, and lime ½, cut into wedges with bottlegreen you can bottlegreen Lime & Mint Cordial 30ml make every moment feel cranberry juice 100ml a little more magical ginger ale 120ml If you aren't in the mood for fussing, bottlegreen cordials 1 Fill a tumbler or wine glass with a few cubes of can easily be mixed with sparking water or wine to create ice, then squeeze the lime into the glass before a delicious drink with a dash of the extraordinary dropping in the wedges. 2 Top with bottlegreen Lime & Mint Cordial and the cranberry juice. Finish with the ginger ale and stir before serving. Sometimes, it’s the little things that make us smile most. That’s why bottlegreen prides itself on making cordials and pressés that give you a dash of the extraordinary whenever you need it. Whether it’s a Friday night in with your friends, a dinner party with the family or simply an evening in on the sofa after a long week at work, bottlegreen can help add a bit of sparkle. Of course, this time of year was made for dining al fresco and if you’re planning on hosting a barbecue, take inspiration from bottlegreen and elevate the occasion with these small changes that are sure to make a big impact. Marvellous marinades If you’re looking to achieve bold flavour with minimal effort, a marinade is most certainly the way to go. If lamb kebabs are on the menu, bottlegreen’s Pomegranate & Elderflower Cordial has got you covered. Simply add a couple of tablespoons of the cordial to your meat, along with some crushed garlic and olive oil, and give everything a good mix. Then, set aside to let the flavours soak in until you’re ready to get the kebabs on the grill. Plant-based pleasures When you first think of barbecuing, you may picture burgers and other cuts of meat being seared in succession, but the possibilities are endless. Pineapple is delicious grilled as it turns lovely and caramelised, while asparagus and courgettes really come into their own when lightly charred and infused with the smoky flavours of your barbecue. Using bottlegreen Ginger & Lemongrass as a drizzle will add some fiery flavour to your vegetables. When it comes to drinks, you can’t go wrong with this refreshing cooler (see recipe, above), which is made using bottlegreen’s wonderfully zingy Lime & Mint Cordial. For more recipe inspiration or to discover the full bottlegreen range, visit bottlegreendrinks.com 90 July 2022 Omagazine.com
ON S14AJLuEly SHOOT DIRECTORS: BEN CURTIS, GILLIAN MCNEILL. PHOTOGRAPH: MOWIE KAY. STYLING: FAYE WEARS. FOOD STYLING: LIVIA ABRAHAM coming next month... STREET FOOD FEASTS • Cinnamon sugar waffles with smoked bacon • Halloumi souvlaki • Crispy fish bao with sambal BBQ menu for two Vibrant flavours of Vietnam 3 WAYS with clotted cream PUTTANESCA STUFFED TOMATOES July 2022 Omagazine.com 91
Caravel Spend time in the kitchen this weekend making these inspired dishes from a unique floating restaurant on Regent’s Canal Recipes LORCAN SPITERI Photographs DAVID COTSWORTH Prawn toast (recipe on p95) 92 July 2022 Omagazine.com
unwind weekend menu Almond tart (recipe on p95) July 2022 Omagazine.com 93
Pressed lamb 6 HOURS + OVERNIGHT PRESSING SERVES 6 | A LITTLE EFFORT lamb shoulder 1.75kg-2kg vegetable oil for frying carrots 3, roughly chopped celery 2 sticks, roughly chopped onions 3, roughly chopped garlic 1 bulb, cut in half horizontally fennel 1 bulb, roughly chopped red wine 500ml chicken stock 500ml thyme, rosemary and bay leaves a few sprigs COURGETTE SIDE onions 1kg, halved courgettes 1kg, cut into 2cm diagonal slices spring onions 300g, thinly sliced lemon 1, a squeeze of juice GREEN SAUCE flat-leaf parsley a handful, chopped tarragon chopped to make 2 tbsp mint chopped to make 2 tbsp garlic 2 cloves capers chopped to make 2 tbsp olive oil 250ml 1 Heat the oven to 135C/fan 115C/gas 2. Lightly drizzle the lamb in vegetable oil and season well. Heat a non-stick frying pan over a medium-high heat and brown the lamb shoulder for 2-3 minutes on each side until golden. Transfer to a deep baking tray. 2 Add the carrots, celery, onions, garlic and fennel to the same pan and fry over a high heat for 5 minutes to colour, and stir to gather the lamb juices from the pan. Add another 1 tsp of oil if the ingredients look a little dry. 3 Add the wine to the pan and reduce by half. Then add the stock and heat up, before pouring all the liquid over the lamb shoulder in the tray. You want the shoulder to be at least half covered with liquid so you might need to add some water to top it up. Add the herbs, cover with foil and cook in the oven for 6 hours. 4 When the lamb is cooked, remove from the tray and carefully remove all of the bones. Put a sheet of baking paper over the lamb, followed by a flat tray, with a weight on top to press the shoulder. Chill for at least 3 hours or overnight in the fridge. 5 While the lamb is pressing, strain the stock from the lamb pan, skim off any fat with a ladle and reduce the sauce until you get a rich gravy. 6 Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. To make the courgette side, put the onions, cut-side down, onto a baking tray, drizzle with oil and season. Roast for 15 minutes, then add the courgette slices and spring onions, and roast for another 15-20 minutes. 7 For the green sauce, whizz all the ingredients together in a food processor to make a smooth paste, then season. 8 To finish, cut the pressed lamb into 2cm slices and fry in a pan with 1 tbsp of vegetable oil for 2 minutes on each side until browned before putting in the oven for 10 minutes. 9 Mix the green sauce with the courgettes and onions, pour the reduced stock over the lamb slices and serve. PER SERVING 1,068 kcals | fat 79.6G saturates 21.4G | carbs 25.5G | sugars 20.1G fibre 11.8G | protein 41G | salt 1G 94 July 2022 Omagazine.com
Prawn toast (pictured on p92) unwind weekend menu 45 MINUTES | SERVES 6 AS A STARTER | A LITTLE EFFORT Almond tart (pictured on p93) raw peeled prawns 500g You will need 7cm and 8cm cookie cutters for this recipe. ginger a thumb-sized piece, finely grated garlic 3 cloves, crushed 35 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | A LITTLE EFFORT light soy sauce 1 tsp fish sauce 1 tsp ready-rolled puff pastry 320g rice vinegar 1 tsp egg yolks 2 (keep the whites for meringues and cocktails) red chilli 1, finely chopped bananas 4 coriander chopped to make 2 tbsp unsalted butter a knob black and white sesame seeds maple syrup 8 tbsp white bread 6 slices double cream 300ml, whipped vegetable oil 300ml, for shallow-frying toasted flaked almonds a handful CHILLI JAM icing sugar 20g palm sugar 100g FRANGIPANE garlic 3 cloves, chopped unsalted butter 100g, softened red chillies 2, chopped caster sugar 100g red pepper ½, seeds removed, chopped eggs 2 ginger 4cm piece, finely chopped ground almonds 100g galangal 2cm piece, finely chopped lime leaves 2, finely chopped 1 Heat the oven to 190C/fan 170C/gas 5. For the frangipane, lemongrass 1, finely chopped cream together the butter and sugar until lightened and fluffy. coriander ½ a small bunch, roughly chopped Add the eggs one by one, scraping down the bowl between rice vinegar 40ml each egg. Add the ground almonds. fish sauce 20ml 2 Use an 8cm circle cookie cutter to cut eight circles from the pastry. Then, use a 7cm cutter to cut a 1cm rim from four of the 1 For the jam, put the sugar into a pan with 200ml of water over circles and use egg wash to stick them to the 8cm circles of pastry. a low heat and stir until the sugar dissolves. Turn up the heat and 3 Egg wash the rims and put 1 tbsp of the frangipane in the cook until a caramel forms the colour of a rusty penny. middle of each pastry. Bake for 15-18 minutes or until the edges 2 Add all of the remaining ingredients and simmer for 15 minutes are puffed up and golden, and the frangipane has cooked. until it reaches a jam-like consistency. 4 Next, slice the bananas in half lengthways, fry them in a pan 3 For the prawn toast, pat the prawns dry and split them in with a knob of butter and finish with 2 tbsp of maple syrup. half. Put half of the prawns in a food processor with the ginger, 5 Finally, add a big spoon of whipped cream to each of the tarts, garlic, soy sauce, fish sauce and rice vinegar, and blend to a put the banana slices on top and finish with a sprinkle of flaked smooth paste. almonds, a drizzle of the maple syrup and a dusting of icing sugar. 4 Chop the other half of the prawns into thin slices and put in a mixing bowl with the chilli, coriander and the blended prawns, PER SERVING 1,436 kcals | fat 105.6G and mix well. saturates 51.6G | carbs 100.2G | sugars 70.6G 5 Spread the prawn mixture onto the bread slices about 1/2cm fibre 3.4G | protein 19.7G | salt 1.4G thick and then sprinkle the sesame seeds on top and pat them down to secure. 6 Heat the oil in a frying pan and fry the toasts in batches, prawn- side down, for 2 minutes, flip over and fry for another 2 minutes. Remove and leave to dry on some kitchen paper while you fry the rest. PER SERVING 239 kcals | fat 11.3G saturates 0.9G | carbs 16.3G | sugars 5.4G fibre 1G | protein 17.6G | salt 1.3G Caravel, meaning a small, light Spanish ship, is in a converted barge on Regent’s Canal near Angel in London. Restored by brothers Fin and Lorcan Spiteri, it features an open kitchen, bar and space for 40 diners. The menu celebrates slow cooking with braises and homemade pasta, as well as influences from their childhood, excellent cocktails and a compact wine list. thestudiokitchen.co.uk July 2022 Omagazine.com 95
kitchen therapy Pickled beetroot Pickling is a hugely satisfying project that will look great on your kitchen shelf, and a perfect way to preserve your favourite seasonal ingredients Recipe ADAM BUSH Photograph CHARLOTTE TOLHURST You will need two or three sealable glass 1 Put the beetroots into a large pan and pour oven for 10 minutes, until piping hot, then jars for this recipe. over enough just-boiled water to cover. Add remove. Once the jars have cooled, tightly pack 2 tbsp of vinegar and a large pinch of salt, and in the beetroot slices so that they fit snugly and 1 HOUR 20 MINUTES + PICKLING bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover and add a couple of thyme sprigs to each jar. MAKES 2-3 JARS | EASY | simmer for 1 hour or until the beetroots are 3 Tip the coriander, cumin, peppercorns and really tender. Remove from the pan, reserving chilli into a pan and toast over a medium heat beetroots 1kg, trimmed the cooking liquid, and allow to cool slightly. for a few minutes until fragrant. Pour in 600ml of red wine vinegar 600ml, plus 2 tbsp Once cool enough to handle, peel and cut into vinegar, the sugar, 1/2 tsp of fine sea salt and thyme a few sprigs ½cm slices or, if small, quarter or half. 200ml of the beetroot cooking liquid. Heat until coriander seeds 1 tbsp 2 When making any pickle, jam or preserve, it’s the sugar and salt are dissolved. Pour into a large cumin seeds 1 tbsp important to sterilise the jars thoroughly. Heat jug, then pour over enough of the pickling liquid whole black peppercorns 2 tsp the oven to 160C/fan 140C/gas 3. Wash the jars to fill the jars and fully submerge the beetroots. dried chilli flakes 1 tbsp and lids really well in hot, soapy water and rinse Put on the lids and leave for at least a week, caster sugar 400g well but don’t dry. Put onto a tray and into the though it will be perfect if left for a month. secrets to share • Sterilising • Pickling rules • Twists SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLING: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLING: ADAM BUSH It’s really important to sterilise your jars, We like to use the 3-2-1 rule when When choosing vegetables to pickle, otherwise you could be pouring your pickling: three parts vinegar, two parts consider if you want the end product to sugar and one part water or, in this case, be crisp or soft. We cooked our beetroot pickle into a vessel full of bacteria, which cooking liquid. For us this creates the to soften it but you might want to keep will mean the product spoiling and perfect balance of sweet and sharp. cucumbers or carrots raw for crunch. a waste of your time and ingredients. 96 July 2022 Omagazine.com
unwind relax and learn worth the wait It’s truly satisfying making something you can use in the future and seeing jars of homemade pickle lined up on your kitchen shelves. Pickling seasonal vegetables is a great way to prolong the season and heighten the flavour of fresh produce. You just have to wait a little while to reap the benefits. Omagazine.com • Check out plenty of pickling twists on Omagazine.com, including dill pickles, chilli radishes and pickled cherries. July 2022 Omagazine.com 97
at home with Rosie Birkett Our columnist shares her kitchen and home projects – this month, tips for easy summer entertaining and making the most of seasonal fruits Words and recipe ROSIE BIRKETT Photograph CHARLOTTE TOLHURST This month’s projects High summer is upon us now and there’s a tangible feeling of ripeness about it – the SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLING: MAX ROBINSON. FOOD STYLING: ADAM BUSH. ILLUSTRATION: FREDDIE STEWART sea is warm enough for a daily dip and the gardens and parks have turned from lush Nursery rhymes and dewy to blousy, abundant and positively humming with life. I always feel like I’ll be putting the finishing touches summer sort of sneaks up on me. I seem to put so much energy into anticipating and to our daughter’s nursery, as we are preparing for the season – planting and tending things to harvest and eat, sorting the planning to move her into her own garden so it’s not a total embarrassment during lazy summer lunches, and dreaming room soon. It was painted black when about the simple seasonal menus I’ll throw together – then all of a sudden it’s here, we moved in but has been transformed hot and flying by. into a bright room inspired by our garden, with nasturtium wallpaper For the sake of absolute transparency, this year we haven’t done as much on the by Lake August and green skirting growing food front as I might like, due to the fact we have been nurturing our baby daughter with the startled, sleep-deprived, all-encompassing befuddlement of new and window frames (Frenchic parents for the past few months, leaving little time for growing much else. But while Paint’s Apple of My Eye). our patch has been somewhat neglected, it’s not totally unfruitful – we still have a few serviceable pots of tomatoes, a nice little yield of the sweetest strawberries and white Hosting garden aperitivo currants, and a tangle of peppery, brightly flowering nasturtiums. No one likes to spend too much time in the kitchen in summer, and we now have Our garden was apparently once an orchard and, though the former owners seemingly didn’t plant any fruiting trees apart from a sprawling sweet chestnut, I’ve the added limitation of a tiny person been determined to restore it to its former fruit-bearing status. I’ve planted Cox apple, who needs to be put to bed early. I get crab apple, morello cherry, mulberry and cherry plum saplings, which are sadly still a around this by inviting friends over for few years off fruiting. One day I’ll hopefully be rolling in the sweet stuff but for now I’m aperitivo – Italian-style snacks and drinks hitting up the local greengrocer and pick-your-own farms, which are flush with fruit at in the late afternoon. Think bowls of this time of year, from piles of shining Kent cherries, to fuzzy, fragrant peaches and olives and anchovies, crab and prawn golden apricots. crostini with locally foraged wild fennel, and homemade tomato and rosemary In summer, fruit becomes part of our daily life, often enjoyed unadorned and just focaccia, all washed down with prosecco warmed by the sun on our light-flooded kitchen table. This month’s recipe – a wobbly, creamy panna cotta sharpened by natural yogurt and sweetened with or Aperol spritzes and negronis. floral honey – makes the perfect accompaniment for all the fruits of the moment. I hope you enjoy it, whether it’s with a honey-glazed Cheat’s entertaining tip barbecued peach, tumble of macerated strawberries, smush of I take the lead of some of the restaurants raspberry coulis or perfectly ripe fig. If you do happen to have your own fig tree, try infusing the warm cream mixture with some of the I’ve visited in Puglia and finish off any younger leaves when you add the vanilla – these will add a beautiful figgy, meal I’m hosting at home with a bowl of coconutty edge to the pudding. cherries and glasses of limoncello from the freezer. It feels like a chic and fun way Follow Rosie on Instagram @homeandgardenbythesea and @rosiefoodie. to finish any summery lunch or dinner. 98 July 2022 Omagazine.com
unwind relax and learn Yogurt and honey 2 Remove the cream mixture from the heat, panna cotta then stir in the yogurt and honey, and whisk until smooth. Pour the panna cotta mixture You will need four dariole moulds for into dariole moulds and chill overnight. this recipe. 3 To serve, boil the kettle and pour a 2cm depth of the hot water into a shallow bowl. 30 MINUTES + OVERNIGHT CHILLING Carefully dip the bases of the moulds in the SERVES 4 | EASY | GF hot water for 5-10 seconds to loosen the panna cottas, then invert onto serving plates. gelatine 3 leaves Serve topped with ripe summer fruit. whole milk 150ml double cream 300ml PER SERVING 462 kcals | fat 42G caster sugar 30g saturates 26.1G | carbs 17.1G | sugars 17.1G vanilla bean 1, split and seeds scraped out fibre 0G | protein 3.9G | salt 0.2G thick greek yogurt 50ml runny honey (ideally wildflower or meadow honey if you can find it) 2 tbsp summer fruits (such as strawberries) ripe, sliced, to serve 1 Soak the gelatine leaves in a bowl of cold water until softened. Meanwhile, combine the milk, cream, sugar, vanilla seeds and pod in a medium pan. Gently warm over a medium heat until steaming but not boiling. Remove from the heat and set aside to infuse for 10 minutes. Remove the vanilla pod. Squeeze the water from the gelatine leaves and drop these into the cream mixture. Gently warm again, stirring to dissolve the gelatine. July 2022 Omagazine.com 99
unwind relax and listen on the podcast Cantonese food and cooking Supper club host Cherry Tang shares stories and cooking techniques from the cuisine of her heritage The importance of soups Western-influenced Cantonese food Soup plays a big part in a family meal in the Canton area. Growing up, it was always about In Hong Kong, we have something called cha nourishing yourself so, depending on the chaang teng – it means ‘tea restaurant’. You season or if you’d had a late night or been can have breakfast, lunch, tea and dinner in studying hard, your parents would give you there, and the menu has all kinds of Western a bowl of soup. It’s not just a bowl of soup, influences. So for breakfast you can get a it’s about taking care of your body. One scrambled egg sandwich and, at lunchtime, soup I like to make is papaya and pork ribs. The papaya adds a you can have pork chop rice, which is deep-fried pork served on sweet taste to the broth and the pork bones contribute a meaty fried rice topped with a tomato sauce and cheese, and then baked flavour. I then add pearl barley and ginger. I just drink this instead in the oven. You can also get steak with spaghetti in black bean of having dinner sometimes. Especially on a hot day because the sauce, which is served sizzling on a cast-iron hot plate. Another soup is light but satisfying. We also have a herbal-based soup. dish is french toast, which is thick pieces of white bread with I add red dates and goji berries, then simmer it with chicken and peanut butter in the middle. You egg and fry it, then put a bit of ginseng. It’s our version of a restorative chicken soup. butter on and drizzle with golden syrup. It’s crazy but I love it. Storecupboard essentials Cherry’s top 3 cooking hacks PHOTOGRAPHS: D3SIGN/MOMENT/GETTY, SINCELF/E+/GETTY We don’t use a lot of spice in the Cantonese BLANCH YOUR VEG This is a great frozen – just add a little chilli oil and kitchen. An essential is soy sauce, light and way to get ahead – have your veg sesame oil, and they’re ready in dark. Light soy sauce is saltier, while dark soy blanched in advance so everything minutes. Even easier, buy some ready sauce gives colour and is thicker. We also use is ready to go. Just drop into boiling made from the freezer section. white pepper, shaoxing wine, cornflour, oyster water for 30 seconds, then drain and sauce, rock sugar, soy bean sauce and sesame put aside until you need them. ORDER A WHOLE DUCK If you’re oil. Cantonese cooking is about tasting the getting crispy duck as a takeaway, it’s ingredient. If I make broccoli with mushrooms, I want to taste USE YOUR FREEZER If I’m making better value to order a whole one as the mushrooms – the sauce is not going to take over. something time-consuming, such as it’s less dry and has more meat. It also dumplings, I make extra then freeze reheats well and goes nice and crispy. them. They cook really well from You can use the carcass for broth, too. Cherry Tang is a London-based supper club host specialising To listen to the podcast, scan the QR code or find it via in Cantonese home cooking. Born in Hong Kong, she started out Omagazine.com, Acast, iTunes or your favourite by cooking dishes from back home for friends and family after podcast provider. moving to London, and eventually started her own supper club in 2012. She also writes recipes and guides online. Follow her on Instagram @feedthetang. 100 July 2022 Omagazine.com
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