National Geographic Traveller

I TH E U K’ S #1 TR AV E L M AGA ZI N E UK EDITION • SEPTEMBER 2022 • £5.10 NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/TR AVEL Italy From Liguria to Lazio, discover the country’s most unforgettable coastal escapes WIN! + A LUXURY VILLA ANTWERP STAY IN CORFU MARRAKECH SINGAPORE BRAZIL LOOKING FOR JAGUARS IN THE WILD, WET PANTANAL BOTSWANA ON SAFARI WITH SCIENTISTS IN THE OKAVANGO DELTA ALSO: BODØ • BRECON BEACONS • GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS • GERMANY • MANCHESTER • MEMPHIS

This is Food and Drink. This is Wales. This is proper food: made with skill and care, by people who love what they do, in a beautiful place. Real food, real drink, real Wales. gov.wales/foodanddrinkwales Food_Drink_Wales f FoodDrinkWales T @FoodDrinkWales





CONTENTS ISSUE 105, SEPTEMBER 2022 66 116 ITA LY WA L E S From Salento to Sardinia, discover Meet the enterprising locals cuisine, tradition and natural drama inspired by the lush green on the country’s storied coast landscapes of the Black Mountains 88 130 B O T S WA N A SINGAPORE Eschew the classic safari for a hands- Raise a glass to the Garden City’s on voluntourism experience charting blossoming cocktail scene, putting wildlife in the Okavango Delta local flavours front and centre 100 140 BRAZIL ANTWERP Elusive jaguars are the stars of the Historical, industrial and futuristic show on a conservation trip through landmarks collide with grand effect the wild wetlands of the Pantanal in Belgium’s second city IMAGE: GETTY 66 ITALY SEPTEMBER 2022 5

CONTENTS Smart traveller 15 | SNAPSHOT California’s 30 | INSIDE GUIDE Discover Bodø, 52 centenarian park ranger the gateway to Northern Norway 16 | BIG PICTURE Natural drama and 33 | STAY AT HOME A trip through brilliant blues in Guatemala history in St Albans 19 | POWER TRIP An electric new 35 | BOOKS A look back at the life of development in London travel writer Dervla Murphy 21 | CALL IT A NIGHT New stays in 36 | KIT LIST Ocean-friendly Manhattan’s NoMad district essentials for your next diving trip 23 | FOOD A taste of Sri Lanka with 39 | COMPETITION Win a three- chef Cynthia Shanmugalingam night getaway to Corfu 25 | ON THE TRAIL Design and 41 | NOTES FROM AN AUTHOR architecture around Valencia Sylvie Bigar on southwest France 27 | WHERE TO STAY Manchester’s 42 | MEET THE ADVENTURER creative new openings Conservationist Sacha Dench 28 | FAMILY Our pick of the best 44 | ONLINE Highlights from free experiences around the UK nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel 21 46 58 IMAGES: MONICA GUMM; JUSTIN BURKS; GETTY; BERBER LODGE On the cover Insider Travel talk Get involved Manarola, Cinque Terre, 46 | WEEKENDER: SYLT Coastal 150 | ASK THE EXPERTS Your travel 155 | SUBSCRIPTIONS Make the Liguria, Italy walks and fine dining on the largest questions answered most of our latest offer Image: Getty of Germany’s North Frisian Islands 152 | THE INFO A look at the UK’s 165 | EVENTS Make a note of these 52 | EAT: MEMPHIS The plant- urban centres, as the country dates for your diary based restaurants reimagining welcomes eight new cities 169 | INBOX Your letters, emails Tennessee’s Southern flavours 153 | HOT TOPIC Why has hiring a and tweets 58 | SLEEP: MARRAKECH From car become so expensive? 170 | HOW I GOT THE SHOT renovated merchant houses to 158 | GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS The Photographer Karolina Wiercigroch Moorish-style palaces, the city’s latest initiative safeguarding the on capturing the soul of Colombia’s hotels reflect its grit and grandeur islands’ rich marine biodiversity coffee region I NATIONAL GEOGR APHIC TR AVELLER I S THE UK’S #1 TR AVEL M AGA ZINE BY SUB SC RIPTION S 6 NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/ TR AVEL

Buy. Sell. Trade. Create. Photography can Together, let’s change the the way bigger picture. MPB puts we see cameras and lenses into more the world. hands, more sustainably. MPB. The platform to buy and sell used photo and video kit. mpb.com #ChangeGear

CONTRIBUTORS Editorial Director: Maria Pieri Production Manager: Daniel Gregory Editor: Pat Riddell Production Controller: Jacqui Agate Deputy Editor: Amelia Duggan Joe Mendonca Commissioning Editor: Commercial Director: Memphis is almost synonymous with Connor McGovern Matthew Midworth barbecue and chicken wings, but a fresh crop Senior Editor: Sarah Barrell Head of Sales: Phil Castle of plant-based restaurants is energising the Assistant Editor: Angela Locatelli Head of Campaigns: William Allen city’s food scene, from ‘veganised’ versions of Executive Editor: Glen Mutel Campaigns Team: Jamie Barnish, meaty classics to posh fine dining menus that Associate Editor: Nicola Trup James Bendien, Jonathan Carrillo put vegetables at the fore. M E M P H I S P. 5 2 Digital Editor: Josephine Price Saez, Bob Jalaf, Kevin Killen, Deputy Digital Editor: Nora Wallaya Gabriela Milkova, Mark Salmon, Joe Sills Oscar Williams Art Director: Becky Redman Head of National Geographic In Botswana, our conservation group was Art Editors: Lauren Atkinson-Smith Traveller — The Collection: suddenly overtaken by a thunderstorm. As (maternity leave), Lauren Gamp Danny Pegg the rains poured down, we cursed Toto and Senior Designers: Kelly McKenna, sang their song. We truly felt like a team, Dean Reynolds Chief Executive: Anthony Leyens brought together by our shared work and Designer: Rosie Klein Managing Director: long days spent in the bush. B OT S WA N A P. 8 8 Picture Editor: Olly Puglisi Matthew Jackson Sales Director: Alex Vignali Sarah Marshall Content Editor: Head of Commercial Strategy: Charlotte Wigram-Evans Chris Debbinney-Wright On each of the four occasions I’ve visited the Project Editors: Jo Fletcher-Cross, APL Business Development Team: Pantanal, I’ve been struck by the sense of lost Zane Henry, Megan Hughes, Adam Fox, Cynthia Lawrence world wilderness that still exists — largely Farida Zeynalova Office Manager: Hayley Rabin thanks to the efforts of conservationists. It Project Assistant: Sacha Scoging Head of Finance: Ryan McShaw truly is one of the South American continent’s Editorial Admin Assistant: Credit Manager: Craig Chappell great natural wonders. B R A ZI L P.1 0 0 Tabitha Grainge Accounts Manager: Siobhan Grover Head of Sub Editors: Accounts Assistants: Delle Chan Hannah Doherty (maternity leave) Ramona McShaw Acting Head of Sub Editors: When I was growing up in Singapore, I was Olivia McLearon always spoilt for choice when it came to Sub Editors: Chris Horton, food — the city is renowned for its fabulous Nick Mee, Ben Murray culinary offerings. However, I never knew its craft cocktail scene was so diverse and Operations Manager: exciting. I do now. S I N GA P O R E P.1 3 0 Seamus McDermott Digital Marketing Manager: Daniel Stables Prabbie Kaur Head of Events: Sabera Sattar Antwerp is modest about its historical Marketing Manager — Events: grandeur. The train station is housed in Angelique Mannan masterful art nouveau architecture, and it’s not enough to gaze at the work of world- National Geographic Traveller (UK) is published by APL Media Limited, famous painters in galleries — you can poke Unit 310, Highgate Studios, 53-79 Highgate Road, London NW5 1TL around their house, too. A N T W E R P P.1 4 0 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel Editorial T: 020 7253 9906. [email protected] 8 NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/ TR AVEL Photography T: 020 7253 9906. [email protected] Sales/Admin T: 020 7253 9909. F: 020 7253 9907. [email protected] Subscriptions T: 01858 438787. [email protected] National Geographic Traveller (UK) is published by APL Media Ltd under license from National Geographic Partners, LLC. For more information contact natgeo.com/info. Their entire contents are protected by copyright 2022 and all rights are reserved. Reproduction without prior permission is forbidden. Every care is taken in compiling the contents of the magazine, but the publishers assume no responsibility in the effect arising therefrom. Readers are advised to seek professional advice before acting on any information which is contained in the magazine. Neither APL Media Ltd or National Geographic Traveller magazine accept any liability for views expressed, pictures used or claims made by advertisers. National Geographic Partners International Publishing Senior Vice President: Yulia P. Boyle Editor-in-Chief, NG Media: Senior Director: Ariel Deiaco-Lohr Nathan Lump Senior Manager: Rossana Stella General Manager, NG Media: Headquarters David Miller 1145 17th St. NW, Washington, DC 20036-4688, USA International Editions National Geographic Partners returns 27% of its proceeds to the Editorial Director: nonprofit National Geographic Amy Kolczak Society to fund work in the areas of Deputy Editorial Director: science, exploration, conservation Darren Smith and education. Editor: Leigh Mitnick Translation Manager: Beata Nas Editors: CHINA Sophie Huang; GERMANY Werner Siefer; GREECE Kyriakos Emmanouilidis; INDIA Lakshmi Sankaran; ITALY Marco Cattaneo; LATIN AMERICA Roberto Moran; NETHERLANDS Robbert Vermue; POLAND Agnieszka Franus; RUSSIA Ivan Vasin; SOUTH KOREA Bo-yeon Lim; SPAIN Josan Ruiz; TURKEY Zeynep Sipahi Copyright © 2022 National Geographic Partners, LLC. All Rights Reserved. National Geographic Traveller and the Yellow Border Design are registered trademarks of National Geographic Society and used under license. Printed in the UK.



Editor’s letter DON’T MISS ISSUE 105, SEPTEMBER 2022 There are few spots in the Mediterranean quite as dazzling as Sardinia. Italy’s Reader Awards 2022 second-largest island offers over 1,000 miles of spectacular shoreline where it’s hard to believe just how turquoise the sea is, how soft the sand is and how From the best travel books to the tour dramatically serpentine the coast is. operators pulling out all the stops, tell us who you think deserves to take the top spot And while Sardinia may be one of the Mediterranean’s best-known beach for a chance to win an incredible prize. Don’t destinations, Italy isn’t really a nation celebrated for its coast. And more’s the delay — voting closes on 31 August. P.1 2 pity, as there’s so much of it, unfurling in such a wild, thrilling and varied way. In addition to the country’s 400-plus islands, the mainland itself has almost 5,000 Travel restrictions miles of coast to explore — with beaches, in many cases, rarely the main draw. The ongoing pandemic continues to So, in our cover story this issue (p.66), our focus on the Italian coastline includes affect travel. Please note, prices and an inside guide to Rimini, from its beach parties to its perfectly preserved travel advice are subject to change. Renaissance architecture, and a pilgrimage to the tiny isle of Pantellaria. We Contact your travel provider for the also indulge in the legendary fish soup served up in the port town of Fano and most up-to-date information. For the marvel at the ancient trabocchi fishing culture of Abruzzo’s south coast. latest news on safe travel and border restrictions, visit gov.uk/fcdo Throw in some of the world’s most spectacular coastal road trips and the eternal allure of the Amalfi Coast as well as our pick of Italy’s 10 best beaches, S U B SC RIB E TODAY and we hope you’ll be inspired to plan a trip that takes a fresh look at Italy’s unique coastal cultures. Pat Riddell, editor NATGEOTR AVELUK AWARD -WINNING NATIONAL GEOGR APHIC TR AVELLER Get three issues for just £5! subscriptions.natgeotraveller.co.uk Best US Travel Destination Article — 2022 IPW Travel Writer Awards • Travel Content Award (Gold): VisitEngland Awards for Excellence 2022 • AITO Young Travel Writer of the Year 2021 • LATA Media Awards or call 01858 438787 2020: Online Consumer Feature of the Year Award • Travel Media Awards 2020: Consumer Writer of the Year and quote ‘NGT5’ • British Travel Awards 2019: Best Consumer Holiday Magazine • BGTW Awards 2019: Best Travel Writer • Travel Media Awards 2019: Young Writer of the Year • Travel Media Awards 2019: Specialist Travel Writer of the Year • AITO Travel Writer of the Year 2019 • AITO Young Travel Writer of the Year 2019 • BGTW Awards 2018: Best Travel Writer • Travel Media Awards 2018: Consumer Writer of the Year • BSME Talent Awards 2018: Best Designer • British Travel Awards 2017: Best Consumer Holiday Magazine • BGTW Awards 2017: Best Travel Writer • BGTW Awards 2016: Best Travel Writer • British Travel Awards 2015: Best Consumer Holiday Magazine G O O N LI N E VI S IT N ATI O N A LG E O G R A PH I C .C O.U K / TR AV E L FO R N E W TR AVEL FE AT U RE S DAI LY IMAGE: GETTY 10 NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/ TR AVEL

Classic collection Inspired by nature Shop at www.mondaine.com

READER AWARDS 2022 IN ASSOCIATION WITH XXXXXXX | Which destinations have you been daydreaming about? Is there a book, TV show or podcast that’s had you itching to travel? Has a tour operator impressed you with its customer service? Our awards seek to reward the very best in the travel business, so tell us who’s got your vote and you could win one of 24 incredible prizes. Head online to have your say, but don’t delay, as voting closes on 31 August. Vote today at nationalgeographic.co.uk/reader-awards 12 NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/ TR AVEL

READER AWARDS 202 2 LAST THE PRIZES CHANCE TO ENTER A SE VEN - NIGHT HOLIDAY FOR T WO AT THE VOTE ONLINE LANDINGS RESORT AND SPA, SAINT LUCIA TO WIN! Unwind in style at The Landings Resort and Spa, enjoying the first-class service and facilities this all- villa-suite resort has to offer. landingsstlucia.com A SIX-NIGHT RAIL ADVENTURE THROUGH SLOVENIA FOR T WO, WITH INNTR AVEL Discover the very best of Slovenia’s spectacular landscapes by train, from the Julian Alps to the glittering shores of the Adriatic. inntravel.co.uk A FIVE- NIGHT CYC LING HOLIDAY IN PUGLIA FOR TWO, WITH MACS ADVENTURE Explore the heel of Italy by bike, where highlights include the picturesque town of Alberobello and the hilltop city of Ostuni. macsadventure.com A T WO - NIGHT STAY FOR T WO AT ROOM2 IN CHISWICK, LONDON Bed down in West London at room2, a new boutique ‘hometel’ that runs on 89% less energy per square metre than the average UK hotel. room2.com A £ 25 VOUCHER TO SPEND AT STANFORDS Win one of 10 vouchers worth £25 to spend at the UK’s leading retailer of expertly sourced maps, travel books and accessories. stanfords.co.uk A YEAR’S SUBSCRIPTION TO NATIONAL G EOG R APH IC TR AVE LLE R (U K ) Are you a fan of the magazine and don’t want to miss an issue? We’ve got 10 subscriptions up for grabs, so cast your votes today. THE WINNERS Winners announced in the December 2022 issue. Voting closes on 31 August 2022 at 11.59pm GMT and is open to residents of the UK and Ireland aged 18 and over. Prizes subject to availability. Full T&Cs at nationalgeographic.co.uk/reader-awards IMAGE: GETTY SEPTEMBER 2022 13

THE MOMENT… …YOU RE ALISE TRUE REL A X ATION COME S NATUR ALLY PGA Catalunya Golf and Wellness. With two Geo Certi ed™ award-winning golf courses and a Wellness Centre commi ed to natural therapies and organic products, it’s the perfect place to unwind and enjoy all that mother nature has to o er. Book your perfect natural retreat. Easily accessible from Barcelona and Girona airports. www.pgacatalunya.com

SM ART TR AVELLER WHAT ’ S N E W • FO O D • O N TH E TR AI L • WH ERE TO S TAY • FA MI LY • I N S I D E G U I D E • S TAY AT H OME • B O O K S SNAPSHOT Betty Reid Soskin, California, USA Until her recent retirement at the age of 100, Betty was the oldest living park ranger in the US National Park Service. She gave bi-weekly lectures at the Rosie the Riveter National Historic Park in Richmond, California, telling the story of the Bay Area’s pioneering role in desegregation. After one of her lectures, Betty agreed to be photographed. At first, she wanted to keep her trademark sunglasses on, then she relented and proceeded to look straight into the lens for the entire shoot. Afterwards, I watched her climb a flight of stairs faster than I could, which really gave me pause. FREDERIC ARANDA • PHOTOGRAPHER fredericaranda.com @fredericaranda One of the Single Image winners of Portrait of Humanity™ 2022/1854 Media. 1854.photography SEPTEMBER 2022 15

SM ART TR AVELLER BIG PICTURE Semuc Champey, Guatemala Concealed within lush tropical jungle about seven hours’ drive north of Guatemala City, Semuc Champey is one of the great natural wonders of Guatemala. Here, the churning waters of the River Cabahón plunge under a 980ft-long natural limestone bridge, which is topped with vivid turquoise pools. The name Semuc Champey comes from the Q’eqchi’ Maya language and means ‘where the river hides under the Earth’. Carrying my camera gear uphill to this viewpoint for 45 minutes through thick, humid jungle made for a sweaty hike, but it was worth it for the sightings of howler monkeys and a toucan en route — and for this bird’s-eye view of the landscape. Afterwards, I headed down to reward my efforts with a refreshing dip in the clear water. BELLA FALK • PHOTOGRAPHER passportandpixels.com @passportandpixels 16 NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/ TR AVEL



Extraordinary travel, made simple. Free your mind to experience every moment with our all-inclusive tour packages, carefully curated by our travel experts. Choose from the world’s most inspiring destinations. £200 OFF your first booking* | Code: EXOTICCANG22 Call 0204 579 2943 or visit www.exoticca.com Excellent *Valid on new bookings made in the UK until December 31st, 2022 (inclusive). The discount cannot be applied to existing bookings or combined with other Exoticca promotions or discounts. In case of cancellation, the discount will not be refundable. The booking must be made directly through www.exoticca.com or via our call centre at 0204 579 2943.

SM ART TR AVELLER TIRED OF WHAT TO DO IN THE TUBE? B AT T E R S E A Hop on a River Bus — services run all the SEE way to Greenwich, via Check out the Battersea Arts Centre, Westminster and the housed within the Victorian former Tower of London. town hall. Its programme runs the full cultural gamut, from contemporary tfl.gov.uk dance to Proms concerts, with many events priced as ‘pay what you can’. LONDON Try and catch a performance in the vast, atmospheric Grand Hall. Power trip bac.org.uk THE REDE VELOPMENT OF BAT TERSE A POWER DO STATION I S IN ITS FINAL PHA SES. HERE’S THE With a boating lake, children’s zoo, Go LOWD OWN O N TH E C APITAL’ S N E WE S T ARE A Ape and various manicured gardens, Battersea Park’s a day out in its own IMAGE: BRENDAN BELL Nearly 10 years after development began, the where exposed brick and metal framework right. Stick around until the evening transformation of Battersea Power Station is stand as a reminder of the site’s past. Visitors for a sourdough pizza and live music entering its final phases. Turning the Grade can get a bird’s-eye view of it all with the at the park’s Pear Tree Cafe. II*-listed icon into a vibrant neighbourhood Chimney Lift Experience, offering panoramic beside the Thames has been a long and views from the top of the building’s northwest E AT expensive ride — costing £9bn, in fact — and chimney. A high street’s in the works, too: Set amidst the glassy new high-rise there’s even been two, shiny new Tube stations Electric Boulevard is the area’s buzzy new of Nine Elms, Oxeye is the delicious (at Nine Elms and Battersea Power Station) to promenade, flanked with dining spots, as well brainchild of MasterChef: The link the area up to central London. Big-name as playgrounds and ribbons of green space. Professionals finalist Sven-Hanson architects, such as Frank Gehry and Norman Britt. The ever-changing tasting menu Foster, were also tasked with designing After all, going green seems inevitable for a takes its cue from the restaurant’s swathes of the development. former power plant — in a nod to its past life, partner farm in Derbyshire, with dishes the building will house its own sustainable that might include chargrilled swede Much of the area’s already open, with power station, set beneath the riverside consommé or Portland sheep with riverside bistros and slick wine bars set park. There have also been careful efforts turnip. oxeyerestaurant.co.uk beneath the railway arches, but the crowning to preserve and boost the site’s biodiversity, glory is the next phase, and the opening of the including resident pairs of peregrine falcons DRINK Power Station itself this autumn. It’s poised and black redstarts. The creation of ‘brown Head to the Four Thieves — a rambling to be a new destination for food-lovers, with roofs’, insect-friendly gardens planted on pub-cum-games room just a short a 20,000sq ft food hall, as well as a hundred rooftops, is designed to boost local birdlife. stroll from Clapham Junction station. shops, cafes and restaurants, all housed within batterseapowerstation.co.uk Take your pick of the craft beers in the soaring Turbine Halls and Boiler House, before trying your hand at some of the CONNOR MCGOVERN retro-themed games on offer, from dance mats and gopher racing golf to table hockey and even virtual reality gaming. fourthieves.pub S TAY Design gurus, take note — the UK’s first art’otel is opening on Battersea Power Station’s Electric Boulevard this autumn, bringing the hotel group’s bold colour palettes and quirky decor to the capital. The 164-room property will also be home to an art gallery, four restaurants and bars, and a rooftop pool. artotellondonbattersea.com SEPTEMBER 2022 19

Island views meet ocean hues. hydroflask.com

IMAGES: GETTY; RITZ-CARLTON NEW YORK, NOMAD NEW YORK SM ART TR AVELLER CALL IT The Flatiron Building, near A NIGHT Madison Square Park High-end hotels are throwing open their Below: Room at the Ritz- doors in NoMad, one of the Big Apple’s Carlton New York, Nomad most happening ’hoods SEPTEMBER 2022 21 For a city that supposedly never sleeps, New York seems to be very keen on hotels: more than 9,000 new rooms are expected to be added this year alone. And with 56.4 million visitors set to arrive in 2022 — 85% of 2019 levels — the bedroom boom couldn’t come at a better time. Manhattan’s NoMad, in particular, is the district with the most activity. Having emerged from its late-20th-century doldrums, the region North of Madison Square Park — bordered by Lexington Avenue, 6th Avenue, 30th Street and 25th Street — gained a reputation as one of the city’s most up-and-coming areas after the opening of the Ace Hotel in 2009 and the NoMad Hotel in 2012. If further proof was needed, Amazon boss Jeff Bezos splurged $80m (£65m) on several apartments atop a 24-storey tower on Fifth Avenue in 2019, confirming it as one of the most sought-after neighbourhoods in town. And now NoMad is set to further bolster its reputation with a string of new hotels. The Johnston Building, constructed in 1903, has now become The Ned Nomad, a sister property to the stylish London hotel and members’ club. The 250-room Ritz-Carlton New York, Nomad followed in July at a cost of $500m (£410m) while the Le Méridien New York, Fifth Avenue is set to open in August. A decade in the making, The Fifth Avenue Hotel will finally open this autumn in a meticulously restored building dating back to 1907 with the Hotel Aka Nomad, on the corner of Madison Avenue, welcoming guests from November. Sir Richard Branson’s Virgin Hotels will see its 38-floor hotel open on the corner of 29th Street and Broadway in the winter. And finally, the AC Hotel New York Nomad — its launch date yet to be confirmed — will allegedly be the world’s tallest modular hotel with 26 storeys and 168 rooms. With rooms this enticing, sleeping might be all you want to do. thened.com ritzcarlton.com marriott.co.uk thefifthavenuehotel.com stayaka.com virginhotels.com PAT R I D D E LL GET LOCAL Live like a New Yorker with the tourism board’s Get Local campaign. The initiative showcases small businesses across the five boroughs, such as restaurants in Little Bangladesh, Queens, and a Brooklyn ice cream factory. nycgo.com/getlocal

Swiss excellence meets Maldivian luxury A timeless tropical island resort Mövenpick Resort Kuredhivaru Maldives Kuredhivaru Island, 20026 Awaken your senses at Mövenpick Resort Kuredhivaru Noonu Atoll, Maldives Maldives, a five-star resort located in Noonu Atoll, a T. +960 656 3000 45-minute seaplane journey from Velana International E. [email protected] Airport. Set your feet upon the powder-white beaches and explore the colourful reef and marine life or relax in your own Facebook @MövenpickResortKuredhivaruMaldives private pool. Indulge in different cuisines at our restaurants Instagram @MovenpickMaldives and relax in the Sun Spa by Healing Earth. movenpick.com Make every moment special at Mövenpick Maldives. Join ALL - Accor's lifestyle loyalty programme - A world of experiences and benefits awaits.

SM ART TR AVELLER MUST-TRY DISHES COCONUT DHAL Dhal is a real Sri Lankan classic, and this version — cooked with lemongrass and pandan leaves, as well as coconut milk, curry leaves, turmeric, garlic and lime — is light and restorative. POL SAMBOL Sambols appear as condiments and side dishes on every table and deliver a hit of flavour. This is king among them, combining the sweetness of coconut, the heat of Kashmiri chillies and the zing of curry leaves and limes with the punch of Maldive fish. JAFFNA CRAB CURRY Cook crabmeat in a spicy, smoky curry sauce with coconut milk, curry leaves, fried onions and ginger. In the final seconds, add a generous amount of ‘meat powder’ — a spice mix heavy on fennel, cardamom and nutmeg. A TASTE OF Sri Lanka FRE S H VEG, FL AVO U RSOME C U RRIE S AN D AN ARR AY CYNTHIA OF BREADS AND PANCAKES ARE ALL ON THE MENU SHANMUGALINGAM is the author of Rambutan. Her first restaurant, also called Rambutan, opens in London in October IMAGES: ALEX LAU; DILUCKSHAN PUVIRAJ At the top of Point Pedro market, a few miles There might be hot red curries of roast The ingredient from my parents’ house at the northern tip aubergine, or braised breadfruit cooked in The foundation of of Sri Lanka, you’ll find a storey of fruit and coconut milk and smoky spices. There could most savoury Sri vegetable sellers. In the airy building, some be black curries, like pineapple or pork, Lankan dishes, fresh feet away from the black and gold sand, you cooked with toasted coconut, sugar and curry leaves are zesty can still hear the Arabian Sea. Beside the fish vinegar. There might be pillowy, crisp rotis; and fragrant; they market and above the rice guy, the fruit and flaky, folded parathas (flatbreads); fragrant contain a cinnamony veg sellers sit cross-legged. Each has a slightly coconut rice porridges and epic sharing compound and taste different specialism and price, but they’re all dishes, like chicken biryani or lamprais (rice, herby, like basil. surrounded by beautiful piles of produce. meat curry and vegetables wrapped in banana leaves and baked). Above: Coconut dhal with kale When you walk past the okra guy, he says, “Yes! Okra?” in Tamil, as if you’d asked a Spicy, fried things to eat are popular with question. If you glance at him in response, he a beer or some tea — perhaps fried vadai starts snapping off the ends of the plant with doughnuts studded with shrimp, cumin, a smile on his face. Breaking it in this way shallots and green chillies, or a mutton roll demonstrates how fresh it is — it shouldn’t be with a dollop of hot sauce. Or maybe the soggy, but have a taut body and snap clean. island’s famous fish dishes, such as turmeric fish curry, tamarind prawns or, most revered A Sri Lankan table should feature lots of of all, crab curry. And to wash it all down, vegetables — perhaps a dhal with kale, or a you’ll definitely need a cool drink or two. plantain curry — but it might also include crispy hopper pancakes, made of fermented This is an edited extract from Rambutan, rice flour and coconut milk, and fresh sambols by Cynthia Shanmugalingam, published by with green mango, raw carrots or green chillies. Bloomsbury, £26. SEPTEMBER 2022 23

Find your wonder Book tours, attractions & experiences

SM ART TR AVELLER ON THE TRAIL VALENC IA The World Design Capital for 2022 is brimming with striking art and architecture. Here’s how to admire the best of it on foot 1 NATIONAL MUSEUM 4 C ATEDR AL DE VALENC IA 5 6 OF CERAMICS AND A five-minute stroll will take you to 3 2 DECOR ATIVE ARTS the city’s real show-stopper — the Kick off with a visit to Spain’s gothic-meets-baroque cathedral, largest national collection of dating to the 13th century. See ceramics, which is housed in the intricate Roman chalice that’s the Palacio del Marqués de Dos purported to be the Holy Grail at Aguas. Originally built in the 15th the Capilla del Santo Cáliz, then century, this baroque building is stop by the Borja Chapel to admire worth a stop for its architecture paintings by the likes of Goya. alone, with elaborate rococo Perhaps most impressive, though, sculptures and frescoed ceilings is the altar: a gold-gilt collection of forming the backdrop to ancient statues and paintings set beneath ceramics, alongside period a cobalt-frescoed ceiling that’s furnishings, clothes, paintings nothing short of awe-inspiring. and more. culturaydeporte.gob.es catedraldevalencia.es 2 VAQUETA GA STRO MERC AT 5 CARME CONTEMPORARY 4 Valencia’s restaurants are often C ULTUR AL C ENTRE 1 temples to design in themselves. The CCCC is a former monastery One of the highlights is this that’s now a set of museums SEPTEMBER 2022 25 nature-inspired spot by local dedicated to all forms of art, where studio Janfri & Ranchal. Enter exhibition halls are tucked among through an artisanal grocery and gothic cloisters, Renaissance you’ll be greeted with lush plants courtyards and a medieval chapel. climbing brick walls and quirky Formerly the centre for the Royal lights draped above an open Academy of Fine Arts — where kitchen and bar (look out for the Valencian artists such as Francisco huge pink fish lantern). The food Domingo Marqués and Joaquín is excellent, too; try the Valencian Sorolla once studied — it’s now paella with scallops, lobster and home to a children’s sensory gallery artichokes for an authentic taste of as well as rotating exhibitions. the city. vaquetagastromercat.com consorcimuseus.gva.es ILLUSTRATION: MARTIN HAAKE 3 CENTRAL MARKET 6 CALLE DE LOS COLORES Just next door you’ll find the Striking Calle Moret, dubbed Mercado Central, one of Europe’s Calle de los Colores (street of biggest food markets. Stalls full of colours), was once a run-down cured meats, fresh fish and hunks alleyway, but is now the canvas of cheese have been enticing locals for a collection of murals since 1928, but the design is just as commissioned by photographer eye-catching as the produce, with Alfonso Calza, who has his studio iron-beamed ceilings, stained- here. Artists including Deih, glass windows and a mosaic-tiled Zíngaro and Capiflex were tasked dome among its features. Head with turning Calza’s photos into to the Central Bar to see the work art in 2016, creating now-much- of designer Francesc Rifé, or grab loved paintings, including lunch at Uno to view hand-painted ‘The Kiss’, which has become tiles by designer Jaime Hayon. something of a pilgrimage for mercadocentralvalencia.es couples. L AU R A F R E N C H

-------- ---------D-I-S-C-O-V-E-R------------------- MORE ---------------

SM ART TR AVELLER WHERE TO STAY Moxy Manchester City Manchester The red-brick bones of this former hat factory in Spinningfields have been brought to life by A STRIN G O F C RE ATIVE N E W STAYS ARE D RIVIN G the Marriott Bonvoy label. It’s full of playful THE NORTHERN POWERHOUSE’S HOTEL SCENE character, from cocktails served in disco balls to motion-activated LED lights in the 146 ALL RATES QUOTED ARE FOR STANDARD DOUBLES, ROOM ONLY, UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED. Leven From top: Life Size modern rooms. Don’t forget to sign the digital IMAGES: CHRISTOPHER BAKER; MARIEL LIND HANSEN; RIKKI CHAN room at Leven; ‘guestbook wall’ before you check out. From Inspired by the city’s industrial past and famous love of reception at Moxy £99. moxy-hotels.marriott.com a good time, Manchester’s latest crop of boutique hotels Manchester City; take original Victorian architecture and add a dash of spiced rum iced latte The Alan sleek modern design and humour. Cue Leven, which at The Alan opened in the city’s Gay Village at the end of 2021. From At this ‘creatively charged’ pad near St Peter’s the outside, it couldn’t be more Mancunian: a former Square, go between the co-working space cotton warehouse with restored red bricks and Crittall and chic, minimalist rooms, which come windows. Step into the lobby and you’ll find the city’s stocked with magazines, a Google Nest smart irreverent spirit in the interior design, via emerald-green concierge and Ancoats Coffee, roasted nearby. fish-scale tiles, fluffy rugs and tongue-in-cheek pop art The made-in-Manchester produce doesn’t (look out for the guide to the local lingo on the wall). stop there: the restaurant and bar offer local libations and small plates made with regional The vibe is a little more subdued in the 42 rooms, ingredients. From £100. thealanhotel.com which range from the standard ‘Life Size’ to ‘Living The Dream’, a top-floor, two-bedroom duplex. But that Forty Seven doesn’t mean they skimp on style; the bright, spacious rooms are decked out with bespoke velour sofas, Set within a listed warehouse, the 32-room standalone tubs and parquet floors. Mattresses are property will marry the building’s original 100% natural and some rooms come with full kitchens. features with a bold, elegant design when it After all, Leven’s raison d’être is all about living — the opens this month. Expect lavish turquoise name ‘Leven’ comes from the Dutch for ‘live’. There are tones and bright florals paired against iron toasties and house-blend coffee on offer downstairs, columns and exposed brick. It’ll also be home plush seats to curl up in, and staff are on hand to knock to a contemporary Indian restaurant, Asha’s. up one of the house cocktails to get the evening started. From £149. fortysevenmanchester.co.uk A restaurant and underground cocktail bar are slated to open later this year, but that’s hardly a problem for now CONNOR MCGOVERN — Canal Street’s bars and Castlefield’s pubs are a short hop away. From £89. liveleven.com SEPTEMBER 2022 27

SM ART TR AVELLER FA MI LY FREE SPIRITS Family days out can be a strain on the wallet, so we’ve chosen some of the best free options up and down the country for some budget-friendly inspiration Scale an extinct volcano in Edinburgh Junction at Cromford. All run along former VR headsets at the IMAGES: GETTY; ANNE-KATRIN PURKISS rail lines and can be accessed at different Dark Skies Festival, South Climbing the 823ft-high Arthur’s Seat, in points. visitpeakdistrict.com Holyrood Park, is a must in the Scottish Downs National Park capital, and routes of varying difficulty Hunt fossils in Dorset mean it can be either an easy hike or a proper Left: Walkers on challenge. Make sure any younger children Visit the UNESCO-listed Jurassic Coast for a Arthur’s Seat, with and tots are in carriers, and ascend from the chance to find prehistoric fossils. Some of the views across Edinburgh east, up the grassy slope above Dunsapie best spots for fossil-hunting are the towns of Loch. With its incredible vistas of city, Charmouth and Lyme Regis, while at Swanage FIVE MORE FOR FREE countryside and sea, it’s well worth the climb. you can quite literally walk in the footsteps visitscotland.com of dinosaurs at Spyway Dinosaur Footprints, SEE STARS IN SUSSEX with its 100-plus fossilised tracks preserved in Head to Bignor Hill on moonless Ride a wave in Yorkshire a layer of rock. Also free is the Dorset Museum summer and winter nights for views of in Dorchester, home to the Weymouth Bay the Milky Way. southdowns.gov.uk The North Yorkshire coast is home to various pliosaur skull. jurassiccoast.org up-and-coming surfing spots, including WALK HADRIAN’S WALL Scarborough, Cayton Bay and Whitby. Bring Sail the seas in London Tackle part of the 84-mile- your own board and take to the water, or long Hadrian’s Wall Path in the learn with one of the local surf schools, In Greenwich, the world’s largest maritime wall’s 1,900th anniversary year. such as Dexters Surf School in Scarborough. museum is a hit with all ages thanks to its hadrianswallcountry.co.uk dexterssurfshop.com yorkshire.com exhibits on exploration and seafaring. The Ahoy! Children’s Gallery, specially conceived MAKE A SPLASH IN CORNWALL Cycle the Peak District trails for young visitors aged 0-7, brings the themes Bude Sea Pool is perfect for open-air of polar exploration, pirates and more to life. swimming, with free beach safety Explore the scenic South Pennines by bike: There’s also the new and equally hands-on Sea sessions. budeseapool.com you won’t be disappointed by the Monsal Things gallery, a ‘captain’s cabin’ to explore Trail (8.5 miles between Blackwell Mill and and the interactive Great Map, which takes SUMMIT SNOWDON Bakewell); the 13-mile Tissington Trail from over the floor beside the main cafe. rmg.co.uk Though steep and rocky, Llanberis Parsley Hay to Ashbourne; or the 17 miles of Path is the easiest route for families the High Peak Trail from Dowlow to High Peak RHONDA CARRIER climbing Wales’s highest peak. SEE THE WORLD IN LIVERPOOL The World Museum has displays on archaeology and ethnology. liverpoolmuseums.org.uk 28 NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/ TR AVEL

seize the moment the good old times are NOW Hettegger Hotel EDELWEISS GmbH, Unterbergstrasse 65, 5611 Grossarl +43 6414 300 • www.edelweiss-grossarl.com • [email protected]

INSIDE GUIDE BODØ THE NORWEGIAN TOWN IS A POPULAR JUMPING-OFF POINT FOR ADVENTURERS, BUT THERE ARE PLENTY OF REASONS TO LINGER The street art, museums and thriving cafe culture aside, The most inventive dishes are served at Lyst På brasserie, it’s the natural beauty that beckons most in this pint- or the candlelit, Italian-inspired Bjørk, where grilled skrei sized town above the Arctic Circle. Set around a working comes with creamed peas, poached egg, bacon-butter and fishing harbour, Bodø is bathed in salty sea air and backed aioli potatoes. lystpa.no restaurantbjork.no by snow-dusted mountains, and in the past decade has transformed into a mini metropolis where hipsters mingle For drinks, seek out gastropub Hundholmen, which with hikers in Champagne bars. pours its own-label beers, or book a tasting at local brewery Bådin. Alternatively, take in the blue sweep of the ord at Perhaps the best way to get to know the city is through its either Roast on the 17th floor of the Scandic Havet hotel, art: back in 2015, the town hosted the inaugural UpNorth or Top 13 Bar & Lounge at the Radisson Blu. Both offer Festival for urban art, where international graffiti artists panoramic views of the city and harbour as well as top- were let loose on the city’s walls. Street art murals range notch cocktails. hundholmenbrygghus.no baadin.com from ogres to butterflies and the Northern Lights, but scandichotels.com radissonhotels.com standouts include the one by Phlegm, on Sjøgata 18 — a long-nosed half-human creature straight from a Grimms’ If you’re visiting in summer, hike up Keiservarden fairytale — and the nearby Insomnia by Millo, which under the midnight sun for a bird’s-eye view of the city captures the busyness of thought when trying to sleep. and, on a clear day, the Lofoten Islands. The moderate, one-and-a-half-mile trail is a good bet for glimpsing the A 10-minute walk west is Svenskebyen (the Swedish green glimmer of the Northern Lights in winter, too. It’s Quarter), home to picture-pretty houses daubed in shades also the setting for the annual Nordland Musikkfestuke of red, blue, green and white, spread between the streets classical musical festival, which takes place between 5-14 of Prinsensgate, Hernesveien, Fredensborgveien and August this yearagainst a backdrop of epic ord views. Harald Langhelles gate. The area takes its name from the musikkfestuka.no Swedish Red Cross, which, when Bodø’s military air base was bombed during the Second World War, built houses for For souvenirs, pick up a designer handbag from Studio those who were rendered homeless — learn more about the EBN, where the creations are made from salmon skin, country’s aerial past at the National Norwegian Aviation which ostensibly functions like leather. And if you’re Museum. norwegianaviationmuseum.com feeling the bite of the northern wind, stock up on woollen sweaters inspired by those worn by sailors, designed by the When it comes to morning coffee, locals swear by sisters who run Fogg Gildeskål. fogg.no studioebn.com Melkebaren for the beans that come from a Bodø roastery. Alternatively, spice things up at Craig Alibone Pâtisserie After a day’s exploring, sink into the comfy beds at & Champagneria, which offers glasses of fizz alongside the new, Scandi-design Quality Hotel Ramsalt, with homemade croissants, macaroons and pralines. its harbour views and excellent brasserie. But to escape facebook.com/melkebaren craigalibone.com civilisation entirely, catch a ferry to Fleinvaer (population 30) and stay at the uber-modern Arctic Hideaway for For something savoury, reindeer and elk all make total immersion in nature. nordicchoicehotels.com appearances on Bodø’s menus, but between January and thearctichideaway.com reisnordland.no visitbodo.com April, migrating Arctic cod (skrei) is the superstar. nordnorge.com E M M A TH O M S O N LIKE A LOCAL VALNE SFOS SEN TRANØY KJERRINGØY IMAGES: VISIT BODØ/KAROLINE O.A. PETTERSEN; ALAMY To stretch my legs, Take the bus or drive Rigmor Myhre’s top I love to visit Bodø’s LIGHTHOUSE an hour north to three outdoor spots highest waterfall. It’s Watch the gentle this an idyllic fishing a short walk through Atlantic waves and post. Visit the Karl Rigmor Myhre the forest and it look across to the Erik Harr Museum is a former radio always clears my Lofoten Islands at this then go to a cafe to operator at the mind. My mother is peaceful lighthouse, try møsbrømlefser, a navy base in Bodø from Valnes and we which dates to 1864 flatbread filled with and has lived in the have a cabin nearby. and is only a few brown cheese, sugar, town since 1984 arctichikes.no hours’ drive north sour cream and butter. of Bodo. 30 NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/ TR AVEL

SM ART TR AVELLER Kjerringøy, with its distinctive red and yellow houses Clockwise from left: Local fish served at Lyst På; Craig Alibone Pâtisserie & Champagneria; Skerstadfjord, near Bodø SEPTEMBER 2022 31

Your outdoor travel expert in Europe Follow us: @roadsurfer Explore new horizons with maximum flexibility Hire your colourful campervan Now available in the UK Ready for your next adventure? roadsurfer.com

SM ART TR AVELLER STAY AT HOME ST ALBANS Millennia of history are writ large across the Hertfordshire city, but there’s a modern side to discover, too, from vibrant markets to contemporary art IMAGES: ALAMY; SOPWELL HOUSE Why go Where to eat WHE RE TO STAY The market city of St Albans is heaving with Set in a 15th-century former boozer, award- On the outskirts of town, smart shops, bars and restaurants, as well as winning gastropub Dylans at The Kings Arms Sopwell House is perhaps St an array of sights spanning its history, from serves refined, seasonal dishes made with Albans’ smartest address. The Roman times through to the present day. top-notch produce. Its menu changes daily. 17th-century country house has Wander the pretty streets to admire the Tudor Alternatively, head to St Albans Charter bright, modern rooms and an shopfronts and medieval clock tower, before Market on a Wednesday or Saturday to try annexe of spacious suites, and calling in at what claims to be the UK’s oldest everything from paella to hot dogs, or time two restaurants, including new pub, Ye Olde Fighting Cocks. Beyond the city, your visit with the St Albans Vegan Market. pan-Asian opening Omboo. there’s easy access to gentle country walks, dylanskingsarms.com veganmarkets.co.uk Don’t miss the spa, which including the Alban Way; the former railway stalbans.gov.uk/markets stretches over two floors and line is now a traffic-free route leading 6.3 miles out into a garden, with hot tubs to Hatfield House and Heartwood Forest — a We like and saunas that have views vast new native forest, home to pockets of over the grounds. From £249, ancient woodland and wildflower meadows. St Albans Museum + Gallery, with its B&B. prideofbritainhotels.com enjoystalbans.com fightingcockssa.com neoclassical exterior, was revived and heartwood.woodlandtrust.org.uk reopened in 2018. The Georgian Town Hall From top: St Albans Cathedral; now thoroughly details the city’s history, as outdoor spa area at Sopwell House What to do well as hosting contemporary art exhibitions. Check out the old courtroom and cells to find SEPTEMBER 2022 33 Built partially on the site of the Roman city out more about law and order in the city before of Verulamium, St Albans wears its history admiring the paintings, sculptures and more. on its sleeve. Start at the Verulamium stalbansmuseums.org.uk Museum for a glimpse of ancient artifacts and recreated Roman rooms, before heading Don’t miss to the remains of the Roman Theatre, which dates back to around AD 140. Meanwhile, St Albans Cathedral is the city’s headline act. nearby Verulamium Park is home to its Founded in AD 793, it was largely destroyed own historic treasures. Here, you’ll find in the 16th century, and later rebuilt with the crumbling remnants of the Roman city romanesque and gothic touches. Inside wall, built between AD 265 and 270, as well you’ll find England’s longest nave, complete as the Hypocaust, a 1,800-year-old heating with 13th-century murals and stained-glass system housed under an ornate mosaic. windows. Book ahead for a tour of the Norman stalbansmuseums.org.uk tower and climb the 211 steps to enjoy views of the city. stalbanscathedral.org N I C O L A TRU P

A city break in Edinburgh with Adagio Stay, live, enjoy Imagine a new way of experiencing Scotland. At home – even when you’re far away from home. Settle into an apartment, with a fully equipped kitchen, in the very heart of Edinburgh. Enjoy customised services and offers from your Adagio aparthotel. Discover Edinburgh Castle, Holyrood Palace and all the beauties of the Scottish capital, on local recommendations from a dedicated team. | Book on adagio-city.com Stay, live, enjoy adagio-city.com

SM ART TR AVELLER BOOKS Dervla Murphy WE CELEBR ATE THE L ATE IRI SH TR AVEL WRITER — A FR ANK AND FE ARLESS ADVENT U RER WH O WA S R ARELY WITH O U T A B I KE BY H ER S I D E A straight-talking woman of passionate convictions, in November 2020. “It makes getting to know people much Dervla Murphy was a travel writer who loved a local beer, simpler. It sends a message that you really do trust them.” hated cruise liners (“I’d pay £10,000 not to set foot on a cruise ship”) and saw mass tourism as a “disaster”. Born in She was a light packer (her preference for travel by Lismore, County Waterford in 1931, she received a second- bike, mule or on foot forced the issue), and her essential hand bicycle and an atlas on her 10th birthday and resolved items included a volume of poetry, a big pack of aspirin that she’d one day cycle to India. Her first trip away from and an indefatigable curiosity. She relied on making local Ireland, at the age of 20, saw her biking through England connections, and despite being attacked by wolves in and Wales writing a series of articles for Hibernia magazine. Bulgaria, robbed in Siberia and threatened by soldiers in Continental trips followed and in 1963, she set off by bike for Ethiopia, she maintained her worst incident was at home, India, as she’d long promised herself, returning home a year when she shattered an arm after tripping over her cats. later to write her first book, Full Tilt. With an itinerant appetite that endured well into her final Dervla was occasionally accompanied by her only decades, Dervla visited more than 30 countries, but said she daughter, Rachel, although she often set off on her own. “wouldn’t live anywhere else than my own little bit of west “You’re much more likely to make friends with people if you Waterford”. She died at home on 22 May this year at the age arrive alone on a bicycle,” she said in interview in The Times of 90, survived by her daughter Rachel and granddaughters Rose, Clodagh and Zea. SA R A H BA R R E LL MURPHY’S L AW: THREE OF HER BEST BOOKS IMAGE: ALAMY FULL TILT: IREL AND A PLACE APART (1978) THROUGH SIBERIA BY At the height of the TO INDIA WITH A Troubles, aiming to put ACCIDENT (2006) aside the sectarian loyalties Due to a leg injury, Dervla BICYCLE (1965) that might have come from had to rethink her trip Dervla’s debut recounts her own family connections to Ussuriland, a Russian an epic ride to India. to the IRA, Dervla cycled outpost, to explore the Setting out from Lismore to Northern Ireland to try territories of Siberia in 1963, she travelled via to unpick the situation, instead. There she found Europe, Iran, Afghanistan creating a travelogue that features revealing humbling hospitality during and Pakistan on her trusty interviews and exchanges with locals on both a journey of self-discovery and contradiction bicycle, facing 50ft snowdrifts in the Turkish sides of the divide. Eland, £13.99 — human warmth and kindness against a bleak highlands and some punishing pedalling through backdrop. John Murray Press, £10.99 the heat of the Himalayan summer. Eland, £14.99 SEPTEMBER 2022 35

SM ART TR AVELLER KIT LIST DIVING Take your underwater adventures to greater depths by equipping yourself with these ocean-friendly scuba essentials 1 FINISTERRE NIEUWLAND 1 2 5 5 BEUCHAT M A XLUX 2E YULEX LONG SLEEVE 6 DIVING MASK SHORTY WETSUIT 3 You won’t miss any of the marine Made from 2mm-thick natural 4 7 life around you when wearing this rubber, this ergonomic wetsuit is a mask. Its tempered glass lens is sustainable alternative to regular 8 slightly closer to your eyes, which neoprene swimwear, using 10 expands your field of view. The times less water in its production frameless design means it packs and reducing CO2 emissions by up down smaller than rival options to 80%. Combining a long sleeve and also reduces internal air and a short leg, it’ll keep you cool space, meaning you won’t need to and protected on warm water equalise the air pressure as you descents. £135. finisterre.com dive. £49.95. simplyscuba.com 2 PAR ALENZ VAQUITA 6 SOLITE OMNI 2.0 CAMERA WATERSPORT BOOTS With its cylindrical chassis, this With their thin and flexible 4K point-and-shoot camera has uppers, these diving shoes been created with divers in mind. provide a cool and comfortable It’s easier to operate than square- extra layer inside your flippers. shaped alternatives, and you don’t The boots’ one-piece construction need any additional filters or envelops the toes and heel for waterproof housing. Novices will protection against sharp surfaces. appreciate the automatic feature The 3mm sole makes them that adjusts the white balance comfortable enough to walk to or relative to depth. €799 (£687). from the water on rocks or pebbly paralenz.com terrains. £69.95. soliteboots.uk 3 APEKS RK3 HD FINS 7 SEIKO SPB301 PROSPEX Apeks’ RK3 range is a popular DIVE WATCH choice for divers, and its latest This classic timepiece is inspired model is arguably its best yet. by Seiko’s 1970 stainless-steel These fins are made from a diver’s watch, which was worn by stiff, tough thermoplastic with the Japanese adventurer Naomi negative buoyancy, enabling Uemura on his 7,800-mile solo the diver’s legs to achieve the dog-sled run from Greenland to optimum position when moving Alaska. Each sale helps support through the water. It’s the Seiko’s Save the Ocean marine perfect all-round diving fin. £137. conservation activities. £1,200. apexdiving.com seikowatches.com 4 ZONE 3 OPEN WATER DRY 8 PERFECT MOMENT BAG TECH BACKPACK CHEVRON WETSUIT When it comes to keeping kit The streamlined, comfortable dry, triathlon and swimming cut of this Lycra swimsuit allows brand Zone 3 has you covered. divers to focus on their form. This waterproof backpack has Its cut-out thighs mean you’ll welded seams and a folding have room to move, while your seal to keep your gear safe from shoulders remain protected from splashes. The 30-litre capacity chafing vest straps. Ideal for easily accommodates dry robes warmer destinations, the wetsuit and towels, while the mesh front is stretchy and lightweight. £240. pocket allows quick access to perfectmoment.com essentials. £89. zone3.com LIZ CONNOR 36 NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/ TR AVEL

YOUR ONLY DIGITAL REGISTRATION CARD FOR ALL HOTELS IN THE WORLD Soon, book your hotel like never before. Hotels will suggest promotional and additional services on Regcard to match your preferences. Create your account now on the website! With Regcard, travellers can create their account for free, upload their passport/ID only once and check-in/check-out online in any hotel in the world. All information related to travellers is gathered in their profiles, which reduces the use of paper. Regcard gives hotels the possibility to upsell and cross-sell, since travellers will soon be able to book according to their preferences and the services that meet their expectations. This time, the concierge comes to you! � � � Roo R'.'G Ree; SELECT YOUR CREATE YOUR PROFILE KEEP RECORD PREFERENCES (ID /Travelog) of all sour pasl trips to recefre perso11alised only 011ce for all your tri11s '� seniices CHECK-IN/CHECK-OUT SAVE TREES BOOK YOUR HOTEL in a click all i11formatiou related to like 11e1·er before lrovellers becomes digital REGCARD.CO�



COMPETITION WIN A THRE E - NIG HT STAY FOR TWO IN A CORFU VILLA National Geographic Traveller (UK) has teamed up with The Greek Villas to offer a three-night getaway to Corfu’s luxurious Villa Daniela IMAGES: COSTAS MITROPOULOS THE DESTINATION From top: Pool area at Villa Daniela On the edge of the Ionian Sea, Corfu is one overlooking Agios Stefanos harbour; of Greece’s most evocative islands, home to dining area at Villa Daniela rugged, pine-covered mountains, deep valleys and secluded coves that have inspired writers, TO ENTER poets and painters for centuries. But it’s not just the timeless landscape that makes Corfu Answer the following question such an unforgettable escape — the island online at nationalgeographic.co.uk/ has a rich and layered history to discover, too, competitions reflected in ancient fortresses looming over WHAT IS THE NAME OF THE picture-perfect towns and elegant Regency VILLA IN THE PRIZE? palaces that house dazzling Byzantine relics. Competition closes 30 September 2022. The winner must be a resident THE PRIZE of the UK and aged 18 or over. Full Courtesy of The Greek Villas, the winner T&Cs at nationalgeographic.co.uk/ and a guest will enjoy a three-night stay at competitions the luxurious Villa Daniela, located above the pretty harbour village of Agios Stefanos, SEPTEMBER 2022 39 on Corfu’s north-east coast. The villa comes with air conditioning, heated pool, organic vegetable garden and gym, as well as its own private chef who’ll prepare unforgettable meals in the open-air dining space. International flights and transfers to and from Corfu airport are also included. thegreekvillas.com

National Geographic Camera Pack available at www.eastpak.com © National Geographic

SM ART TR AVELLER NOTES FROM AN AUTHOR OCC ITANIA Sylvie Bigar’s cassoulet-inspired odyssey across southwest France results in revelations about her family tree and a travelogue celebrating the rustic stew ILLUSTRATION: JACQUI OAKLEY From New York, where I lived and worked as Men and women wearing squeezed its leaves into the most fragrant a food and travel writer, I’d landed in Paris, long, red robes and matching bouquet garni. flown to Toulouse and caught a wobbly berets pranced in, carrying regional train to Carcassonne. My assignment? Just outside the small village of Issel, we The history of cassoulet, the ancestral dish a stretcher wrapped in red dug our hands into the unique red clay that of stewed, tender pork, caramelised beans and gold satin... My eyes were potters mould into cassoles, vessels dedicated and crispy duck confit. A short, easy article, I for cooking the stew; along the tranquil Canal thought. Couldn’t have been more wrong. on the massive, steaming du Midi, I learned the differences between clay pot at the centre of the the conical and the rotund ones. Crossing Growing up in Geneva, Switzerland, I often stretcher, cradling a golden, the Plain of the Lauragais, near the town of travelled through France with my parents, but Pamiers, I kneeled in the fields to pick curly for some reason never made it to the province bubbly cassoulet pods shielding their beans. We tasted and of Occitania. Perhaps it was simpler to drive compared the round coco with the longer straight down the Route Nationale 7 through haricot de Castelnaudary, named after the the lavender fields of Provence to the Riviera. nearby self-proclaimed capital of cassoulet. As soon as my train left Toulouse, the land At sunset, I bid my time until the last day- spoke to me. It was April and the French tripper left Carcassonne, and stayed behind, countryside unravelled a shimmering, strolling through the now-quiet alleyways, pointillist panorama — wave after wave of low imagining a whole cast of troubadours and hills covered with myriad tiny, yellow flowers. knights that would’ve once roamed these Here and there, lone medieval ruins perched cobbled streets. Here, chef Jean Pierre Blasco, on rocky peaks echoed of long-ago bloodsheds one of my guru’s disciples runs the historical and tragedies. Between the Hundred Auberge des Lices and his cassoulet almost Years War and the Cathars movement, the rivals his master’s. region often served as a battlefield. As we neared my destination, the 52 towers of the One morning, we drove off towards the walled city of Carcassonne emerged in the sunny Corbières area, then the windy bluish fog, hanging above the valley like a Minervois vineyards near the Regional Park multidimensional lantern. Was it a mirage? of Haut-Languedoc to learn about the wide varieties of the Languedoc wines. On these As I sat in a chateau restaurant just beyond high plateaus, the wind rules local agriculture, those walls the next day, the tall metal doors the way the homes are built, even the moods that hid the kitchen suddenly burst open, of its people. Near Minerve, a stunning revealing a procession. Men and women village and the capital of the Minervois, the wearing long, red robes and matching berets mountainous, stony soil produced a dry, red pranced in, carrying a stretcher wrapped in wine with cassis and blackberry accents, the red and gold satin and singing at the top of perfect complement to our rich stew. their lungs in ancient Occitan. But my eyes (and my nose) were on the prize: a massive, Over the years, I met some of the members steaming clay pot at the centre of the stretcher, of l’Académie Universelle du Cassoulet, the cradling a golden, bubbly cassoulet, the organisation founded to defend the authentic culinary speciality of Occitania. stew against the invasion of cassoulet-in-a- can or, even worse, the touristy all-you-can- How could I have known that one bite of eat cassoulet for €8 (£6.80). Their vetted cassoulet would send me on a gastronomic, eateries, restaurants and wineries led me from multi-year emotional journey leading me to Narbonne all the way to Toulouse along the my dramatic family history and the writing of Route du Cassoulet. my book, Cassoulet Confessions: Food, France, Family and the Stew That Saved My Soul. I went as far as wondering if somehow this region was part of my own heritage, and dug What a discovery: every ingredient led to into my family’s past searching for ancestral another corner of Occitania. As we hiked in beans. What I discovered would leave me the Montagne Noire, the creator of my debut changed forever. cassoulet, who would become my culinary guru, showed me where the wild herbs grow. Sylvie Bigar is author of Cassoulet Confessions: Food, “Evergreen thyme along this hedge,” he France, Family and the Stew That Saved My Soul, whispered. “Rosemary by the rocks, see?” published by Hardie Grant Books, £16.99. Later, we unearthed a laurel shrub and @sylviebigar SEPTEMBER 202 2 41

SM ART TR AVELLER MEET THE ADVENTURER Sacha Dench THE AUSTR ALIAN BIOLOGI ST AND CON SERVATIONI ST TAKES TO THE SKIES TO BET TER UNDERSTAND THE THRE ATS FACING MIGR ATORY BIRD SPECIES fly at the same altitude as power lines. That’s one of the main threats we found through parts of Europe, but you wouldn’t know that if you weren’t trying to fly that route yourself. Do you have one memory that stands out? There were many wonderful instances of people offering support, even when they had very little. There were magic moments when kids would run from miles away because they’d never seen anything like this. But the best thing was taking my helmet off and seeing young girls, living in quite male-dominated societies, go ‘Wow, girls can fly, too!’. Where does your passion for adventure come from? In August, you begin your next project, Flight of the READ THE FULL IMAGE: CONSERVATION-WITHOUT-BORDERS.ORG I grew up predominantly in the Australian bush. We didn’t Osprey, following this bird on its 6,000-mile migration INTERVIEW have power or running water, but what we did have was from Scotland to West Africa. What inspired this? ONLINE AT access to vast amounts of wild areas. That’s probably where The UK is in the middle of a flyway that goes from Russia, N AT I O N A L my love and connection with all things wild came from. Iceland and Greenland to Africa. I’ve done half of it with GEOGRAPHIC. the Flight of the Swans expedition, and I wanted to follow CO.UK/TR AVEL I also moved around a lot. For a time, I stayed with the rest of the journey. Many birds do it, but the osprey my dad’s family in a manor house in England, while my makes a fabulous icon. It’s been persecuted to extinction mother’s family lived in Switzerland. I developed a passion in many countries, and although it’s starting to make a for the ways landscapes and conditions create characters. comeback, it still suffers a lot of loss on the migration route. You’re the UN Ambassador for Migratory Species. What From tracking data, we can tell where their tags have sparked your interest in birds and their journeys? stopped working, but nobody has pieced together the whole In conservation, migratory species are particularly story of the flyway. That’s what I was keen to do — not challenging because they rely on the health of habitats and only look at where birds have disappeared, but at what the people in different countries. It’s complex, and you have to threats are in those places, and then build up a big picture. be creative. I saw a way I could make a difference. And this time, you’ll be exploring the role of the ocean But I also saw I had an affinity with these animals. I’ve beneath the flyway, too. lived in places with very different cultures and politics. I free dive, and there are plenty of places where the When you’re doing conservation that crosses borders, you underwater part of the story will be really interesting. need to have a pretty good understanding of how to quickly For example, on the north coast of Morocco, which is relate to people. That’s a skill I’ve developed over time. home to the southernmost breeding population of osprey, they suffer due to dynamite fishing, which decimates the In 2016, as part of the Flight of the Swans expedition, you seafloor, where the young birds fish. In some places, we’ll spent three months on a motorised paraglider tracking look at how the increased murkiness of the water, caused Bewick’s swans from Siberia to the UK. What did it reveal? by deforestation, is impacting seagrass beds, where the As paramotors fly at similar speeds and altitudes to birds, young fish grow that ospreys feed on. In other areas, it’s they’re useful to get a feel for the conditions the birds been reported that we’ll find discarded nets. experience. For example, during the autumn migration, when the sky is often covered in low cloud, birds are forced to What’s your proudest achievement? Quite often, people will assume it’s the awards and titles. Actually, it’s the fact that the little girl from the Australian bush — who grew up with very little but had a passion for nature and for putting things right — could become a UN ambassador. I’ve managed to get to a point where I really feel I can influence our trajectory for the next 10 years. INTERVIEW: ANGEL A LOCATELLI Follow Sacha Dench’s new project, Flight of the Osprey, via her charity, Conservation Without Borders. conservation-without-borders.org @sachadench 42 NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/ TR AVEL

Wherever there is music, that’s where you’ll find me. Music streaming, downloads, and beyond. The most authentic sound quality. First-class original editorial. A committed community of music lovers.

WHAT’S ONLINE BOOKS TO MAKE YOU RETHINK HOW YOU TR AVE L The best travel books address ‘why?’ and ‘who?’ — and not just where. We explore titles that aim to shape the way we think about travel in 2022 and beyond. Words: Sarah Barrell How we explore the world — and why — is Zero Altitude: How I Learned to Fly Less and The Green Traveller: Conscious the driving force behind the latest pioneering Travel More, by Helen Coffey adventure that doesn’t cost the earth, travel titles. A battalion of eco-conscious Getting on a plane is an occupational hazard for by Richard Hammond authors are setting out across the globe to the eco-conscious travel writer — the carbon- Richard Hammond, the founder of the Green spotlight vanishing species, from seeds to sea spouting elephant in the room addressed by Traveller website, was a pioneer of eco travel, creatures, and so much more in between, in Helen Coffey, who journeys as far as she can in championing sustainable-yet-exciting ways to an attempt to encourage readers to develop a the name of journalism, all without boarding explore the world. His new book examines how deeper connection with the living world in the a single flight. Rather than reducing her green travel has developed in recent decades face of climate breakdown. Destination-led experience and understanding of the world, and the crucial role it plays in the future of our travel literature has been usurped by books Helen’s forays into parts unknown by train, planet. Packed with tips, this is a handbook that seek a more meaningful connection with car, boat and bike provide an exhilarating to help you navigate tricky terminology, cut our planet, be it questioning the colonialist opportunity for adventure. Follow her as she through the greenwash and plan your next trip perspectives of travel tomes or simply finding meets climate experts and activists worldwide, via reviews of everything from the best off-grid ways to make our trips more sustainable. and take notes as she offers up practical tips on accommodation to places where you can get how to travel while keeping your feet firmly involved in citizen science projects. (Pavilion We select 12 books that will help you on the ground. (Flint Books, £16.99) Books, £18.99) R E A D T H E F U L L L I S T O N L I N E reimagine how you might travel this year. TOP S PA I N ITA LY CON SERVATION STORIES 15 of the best Spanish Five alternatives to Venice for an Meet the first-ever bison Here’s what you’ve been enjoying on the food experiences Italian city break rangers in Kent website this month Experience Spanish cuisine at Canals, cuisine and culture: Behind the scenes of the its best, right at the source inspiration for your next getaway pioneering rewilding project 4 4 NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/ TR AVEL

ONLINE PRESERVING MOROCCO’S BEYOND THE STORYTELLING TRADITION TR AVEL SECTION YOUNG MOROCCANS ARE KEEPING THEIR NATION ’S CANDLE BURNING IN A | SPACE | FESTIVAL H O N O U RIN G AN AN C IENT TR ADITIO N . WO RDS: N O R A WALL AYA ‘The sky is opening up’: NASA’s Webb Telescope captures jaw- The souks of Marrakech have a reputation crashing krakeb cymbals. Behind them, dropping views of the cosmos for chaos. But today, as a distant drumming women clap their hands and sing in spine- Kicking off a new era for rumbles around the medina’s red stone walls, tingling ululations. I spot the parade’s astronomy, these views of stars, everyone around me stops what they’re doing organiser, Zouhair, a young storyteller, and galaxies, and nebulae push human and a hush falls. Oil-smeared metalworkers I’m swept into the crowd as it heads towards understanding deeper into drop their tools to the ground with a clatter. The Jemaa el-Fnaa, the parade’s final stop. the universe. tearing of saws grinds to a halt, sparks settling in the dust. Even the haggling salesmen lose The parade’s purpose today is to carve out | FA MILY | their bewildered targets, as all eyes are fixed on performance space in the city’s square, so that a These top World Heritage sites a single passageway from where the sound is motley crew of marching hakawati (storytellers) will spark kids’ imagination coming. It gets louder and closer. It’s the sound can take to the stage for the opening of the Discover humanity’s most awe- of a parade, and it’s headed this way. city’s first International Storytelling Festival. inspiring places and traditions, Recognising Morocco’s 1,000-year heritage of from Rome’s Colosseum to Bali’s Before me, flashes of gold, red and green hikayat (oral storytelling), the festival’s aim is shadow puppeteers. swirl into view. Three, then 10 Gnawa to illuminate the art, to raise awareness of its musicians appear from the passage, their precarious place in modern Moroccan culture, | HISTORY | robes billowing as they stride and leap their and to encourage younger generations to What exactly was punk? way towards me banging tbel drums and participate. R E A D M O R E O N L I N E The surge of the punk scene in the late 1970s and early 1980s IMAGES: GETTY; NORA WALLAYA; NASA, ESA, CSA, AND STSCI; wasn’t limited to music. It became BEN ROBERTS/PANOS PICTURES; TOM CAWDRON; SHANE HARRISON an ideology, spawning literature, fashion and political defiance. G O O N LI N E VI S IT N ATI O N A LG E O G R A PH I C .C O.U K / TR AV E L FO R N E W TR AVEL FE AT U RE S DAI LY CAMPING UK FOOD SEARCH FOR NATGEOTR AVELUK The travel kit list: family camping Six of the best UK beer festivals Eight ice cream styles from FAC E B O O K gear for summer 2022 for 2022 around the world INSTAGR A M Camping as a family can be a Raise a glass to the most brilliant A selection of cold treats to keep TWITTER breeze with the right gear in tow beer festivals this year you cool on your travels SEPTEMBER 2022 45

WEEKENDER SYLT The largest of Germany’s North Frisian Islands is a windswept escape, with bracing coastal walks, vast, sandy beaches and a sparkling array of fine-dining restaurants. Words: Jamie Lafferty Germany might not seem an obvious discover, too, from Neolithic burial sites to a destination for a beach break, but the North wealth of thatched buildings, many of which Frisian Islands have been a holiday hotspot were once the residences of 17th- and 18th- for Germans for centuries. Most gravitate century whaling captains — relics of a bloody towards the slender, windswept isle of Sylt, the past that’s mercifully long forgotten. easiest-to-access of the 14 islands. Facing out to the North Sea, its long, beautiful beach acts But life on Sylt continues to be shaped by as something of a blonde shield for Denmark the sea — in many ways, literally: given the to the east. It’s tethered to the mainland by a island’s low-lying topography, rising sea levels single rail causeway — cars aren’t necessary pose an ever-present challenge, evidenced for exploring the island, and if you take one, not just by the dunes but by the coastal dyke you’ll have to load it onto a train first. systems found all over the island. But whether or not you’re keen on learning about shoreline Dotted with five-star hotels, lavish spas and management, you’ll find the pull of the coast Michelin-listed restaurants, Sylt’s main towns hard to resist on this island of red cliffs and are today famous for high-end holidaymaking. undulating dunes — a fitting backdrop for a But beyond the glamour — and the bracing gentle cycle or beachside stroll, ice cream shoreside walks — there’s plenty of history to in hand. 4 6 NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/ TR AVEL

DAY O N E DUNES & DAIRY TOP FIVE IMAGES: AWL IMAGES; MICHAEL REIDINGER Morning Afternoon Evening Sylt beaches Sylt’s shape — three long, slender Don’t leave List without having Once in Westerland — Sylt’s largest HORNUM WESTSTRAND peninsulas — means planning ahead lunch at Gosch — a fish restaurant town — fill your boots at one of The beach at Sylt’s is vital. Start your day in the village that’s now a nationwide chain. Its the many restaurants. Try seafood southernmost tip is one of List, in the far north of the island. delectable selection includes Sylt’s specialist Restaurant Fisch Hüs Sylt, of the least visited on the From here, there are coastal walks beloved oysters. Afterwards, if perhaps, or relaxed, fine dining island, so come outside of out to the northernmost point of you haven’t hired a bike, hop on option Foodporn — for the likes summer and you may have Germany, the Elbow — a hook of a bus and head to Kampen, just of pumpkin risotto or veal ragu it to yourself. The concrete land dotted with lighthouses that south of List. While this well-heeled open ravioli. Before you choose, tetrapods — introduced to offers views across to Denmark, two resort is primarily a place for it’s worth booking a strandkorb help mitigate coastal erosion miles away. If you’re in the mood people-watching and fine dining, and settling in to watch the sun set — are a distinctive sight here. for a decadent treat, then make a it’s worth heading beyond Hotel (the island has thousands of these beeline for the Sylter Eismanufaktur Rungholt to Hundstrand Rotes Kliff colourful wicker chairs, with most RANTUM ice cream parlour (the salted beach. It costs €3.50 (£3) to access found in this area) and savour what To get an idea of just how caramel is memorable). All the milk — a fee that helps to fund erosion the locals call the ‘Champagne air’. narrow Sylt is, head to the used to make the ice cream comes management. Walk the coastal trail Look west, and there’s nothing but outlook at Bunker Hill, from Sylt herds — impressive, along the gorgeous Red Cliffs, with North Sea until the northeast coast overlooking Rantum Beach. considering how little pastoral the golden beach below, and you’ll of England; behind you, Sylt’s sand It’s a great spot from which land there is. Afterwards, soak up see why this landscape is worth dunes. If the weather’s a little too to admire the undulating the atmosphere around List’s ferry protecting. If you have the energy, bracing, enjoy the views from Hotel dunes and beautiful sunrises port, home to bars, boutiques, continue walking four miles south Miramar, an elegant property that’s and sunsets. restaurants and fairground-style to Westerland. gosch.de been welcoming guests since 1903. attractions. sylter-eismanufaktur.de hotel-rungholt.com foodporn-sylt.de hotel-miramar.de MORSUM KLIFF The cliffs at north-facing Morsum Kliff provide excellent examples of the sedimentary rock that dominates the island’s geology, while the calmer waters here, sheltered from the violence of the North Sea, attract thousands of seabirds. BUHNE 16 If you’ve never been to a nudist beach before, then Sylt may well be the place to give it a try. Around a third of all the beaches on the island are designated for people who prefer going au naturel, including this stretch near Kampen. S Ü DWÄ L D C H E N This lively spot on the fringes of the main town of Westerland has hundreds of strandkörbe chairs to rent and there are events in summer, as well as bars nearby should you get bored of the white sand. From left: List-West lighthouse in the Ellenbogen Peninsula nature reserve; a worker at Dittmeyer’s Austern Compagnie, an oyster producer SEPTEMBER 2022 47



WEEKENDER TOP THREE DAY T WO SWIM MING & STARS Westerland bars Morning Afternoon Evening BARBUSHKA If you’ve booked a room with a Time to head to the deep south. For a dinner to remember, seek sea view at Hotel Miramar (or are Hörnum — a town that first took out one of the island’s fine-dining COC KTAILCAFÉ SYLT staying anywhere near the sea), root as a military base in the early establishments. Budersand Hotel’s There aren’t many you might get a surprise when you decades of the 20th century — is restaurant has a Michelin star, cocktail bars on Sylt but open your curtains — many North the southernmost settlement on as does Bodendorf’s, at Hotel Barbushka makes a welcome Sea swimmers here choose to Sylt where there are excellent Landhaus Stricker, in the village exception. Space is tight, shock themselves awake by going views across the water to the of Tinnum (both require booking but staff more than make in completely naked. But if you neighbouring islands of Föhr and in advance). The most in-demand up for it with a menu of time your trip for late September, Amrum. It’s home to arguably restaurant is the two-Michelin- reliably good tipples. Fans expect wetsuits, not birthday the finest hotel on the island, star Söl’ring Hof. With a six-course of old-school cocktails like suits — Windsurf World Cup Sylt is Budersand Hotel, famous for tasting menu for €264 (£228), it’s sazeracs and mint juleps one of the world’s longest-running its spa and golf course. Should not for the shallow-pocketed, but won’t be disappointed. windsurfing championships. that not appeal, there are hiking with its focus on local produce, Friedrichstraße 14 Elsewhere, this central stretch of opportunities amid the dunes and intimate setting, it’s an the island is home to some of the and heath at the southern tip, as unforgettable meal. If you’re keen WUNDERBAR region’s most notable historical well as a chance to admire the to learn some of the kitchen’s Considering how elegantly sites, including Denghoog, a historic Hörnum Lighthouse. On secrets, a cookery course is appointed so much of Sylt 5,000-year-old Neolithic burial your way back north, detour via available. Elsewhere, the more is, the excellently named site built into a hillside, and Rantumbecken in summer months relaxed Brot & Bier, in Keitum, Wunderbar is a refreshingly Altfriesisches Haus, a thatched to see thousands of brent geese maintains a similar focus on Sylter shabby mess of wood and home turned museum that was first and other migratory bird species, produce, such as herring served on graffitied walls. It opens its built as a grand Frisian residence in which stop here en route to Siberia. Frisian bread. landhaus-stricker.com doors at 9pm and has the 1640. soelring-museen.de budersand.de soelring-hof.de brot-und-bier.de feeling of a lively apres-ski joint, only with the prices of a Hamburg dive bar. sylt-wunderbar.de BIERBRUNNEN WESTERLAND If you’ve just stepped off the train to Sylt and are keen to have a beer, then this old-fashioned beer hall just outside the station will likely prove irresistible. There’s plenty of outdoor seating, while inside the decor calls to mind a traditional Frisian inn. Wilhelmstraße 5 IMAGE: AWL IMAGES Right: Former captain’s house in Keitum, Sylt SEPTEMBER 2022 49

WEEKENDER Strandkörbe at Krampen, Sylt, Local lingo a hallmark of beaches on the The North North Frisian Islands Frisian language comprises 10 dialects; in Sylt, Söl’ring is spoken, while in neighbouring Föhr, it’s Fering, which is closely related to Öömrang, the dialect of Amrum THREE TO TRY NORTH FRISIAN ISLANDS Sylt’s smaller neighbours make a worthwhile stop for a quieter, gentler pace of life. There are no bridges or ferries between Sylt and the other islands, so catch one of the ferries from the mainland Föhr Amrum Pellworm MORE INFO IMAGE: MONICA GUMM Sylt Tourism. sylt.de The flattest and most agricultural Not so long ago, it was easily Once part of a larger island called of the North Frisian Islands is possible to walk between Föhr and Strand, Pellworn became an island GETTING THERE becoming increasingly popular Amrum at low tide, but rising sea in its own right after a flood in the Westerland is accessed by with travellers, especially those levels mean it’s much wiser to take 17th century. Today, it’s the least a train that carries both who feel Sylt’s Frisian personality a ferry instead. Once you’ve got touristy of the major islands in passengers and cars. The has been somewhat diluted by its there, the best way to travel the this corner of Germany, but still line goes all the way to popularity with visitors. This island is by bike, dozens of which has attractions well worth seeking Hamburg (journey time isle — far quieter than Sylt — has are available to hire by the dock. out. The Old Church has been in around three hours), which plenty of cycling paths as well as Locals say the island is how Sylt ruins for over 300 years and has is served by rail and air from walks along the coastal dykes. The was 30 years ago, all sleepy a striking silhouette, while the several UK destinations. town of Wyk auf Föhr is the closest villages and sensational beaches. historic red-and-white lighthouse thing it has to a resort — it’s where The main stretch of sand — over makes for a similarly satisfying you’ll find most of the restaurants six miles long and almost two photograph. If you’re travelling and hotels, as well as a classic miles wide in places — is a popular in summer, don’t be surprised to promenade with bandstand. For destination for day-trippers from see couples enjoying maritime- cakes and coffee, the gloriously Föhr and Sylt. Head further north, themed weddings here. Despite kitschy Stellys Hüüs in the village and Amrum remains decidedly its comparative lack of visitors, of Oldsum has won many admirers sleepy, with quaint villages like Pellworm has some outstanding over the years. The wetlands and Norddorf offering a feeling of cafes, too — Warft, Anticus and abundance of fields make Föhr a escapism — and no shortage of Strandcafe all make a welcome pit- popular spot for birdwatching in pretty, thatched-roof buildings, stop for their excellent cakes and early summer, too. of course. strong coffee. 50 NATIONALGEOGR APHIC .CO.UK/ TR AVEL