Harper's Bazaar

Editor’sletter SEPTEMBER 2022 An Etro look in ‘East of Eden’ (page 156) Tuarnnoevwerleaf PHOTOGRAPHS: ERIK MADIGAN HECK, ALEXI LUBOMIRSKI It’s not very often that we feature a car on a Bazaar cover. But when, for our shoot, Gemma Chan slid behind the wheel of a powder-blue www.harpersbazaar.com/uk Triumph Spitfire and took off into Notting Hill, her hair flying, it summed up for me the dynamic, breezy mood that permeates our September issue. Autumn has traditionally inspired a contemplative feeling in the poetically minded, who muse mistily on the dying year, but for anyone involved – or interested – in fashion, September is when the pace accelerates and the new roars in. There is much that is new to celebrate in this issue, too. Firstly, you will notice a tweaking and a freshening-up of the magazine’s design, overseen by our creative director Tom Usher. We have intro- duced several columns, including our fashion director Avril Mair’s expert guide to solving the knottiest wardrobe dilemmas, and a stylish insider’s address book for their home city. And we have added an entire section devoted to elegant living, seeking out cult interiors shops, exciting collaborations and covetable homewares, September 2022 | HARPER’S BAZAAR | 57

EDITOR’S LETTER as well as going behind the front doors of the nation’s most inter- Gemma Chan wears Silk scarf, £370, esting creative talents – this month, we have photographed the Louis Vuitton in this Hermès London pub that the British artists Polly Morgan and Mat Collishaw month’s cover story have converted into a minimalist family home-cum-studio. Bracelet, £1,600, Giorgio £1,700, David M Naturally, we also celebrate the vibrant fashion collections, with Armani a spectacular 42-page shoot in the glorious environs of the Carskiey Robinson Estate on the Mull of Kintyre. It is heartbreaking how often a story From a selection, that has been meticulously planned over months falls victim to the Piaget EDITOR’S vagaries of the climate (a particular hazard for us at Bazaar, as our CHOICES shoots are almost as much a celebration of the British landscape as they are of international fashion), but in this case, nature and the A busy September weather collaborated with us to extraordinary effect, as you can see requires streamlined on page 156. And we offer insights from two talented actresses at very different stages in their careers – on page 198, Winona Ryder chic. Ferragamo’s shares what she has learnt from a life in the spotlight, while on page racing-green dress is 142, our cover star Gemma Chan tells us how she wants to use her effortlessly elegant, growing fame to change the cultural landscape. while Hermès’ gorgeous greyhound-printed I write this from the haute couture shows in Paris, which are scarf will remind me to a celebration not only of the world’s most exquisite clothes, but also of the jewellery that is worthy of accompanying them – unique pick up the pace. works of wearable art, each piece worth a small fortune. Earlier A beautiful watch is today, mesmerised by one particular necklace – a glittering Cartier essential to ensure snake made with huge sapphires – I stood in front of it for many minutes, gazing into the blue heart of the stones and wondering I’m on time for what it was about them that held such emotional resonance. Maggie my appointments… O’Farrell’s fascinating essay on page 98 explores the symbolism of jewellery, which has inspired her forthcoming novel, and we celebrate its power throughout the issue with highlights from the high-jewellery collections and a beautiful shoot featuring diamonds and pearls. Serendipitously, the theme I chose for our short-story competi- tion this year was ‘Treasure’, and the judges and I certainly felt we had struck gold with our winning entry, which we publish on page 204 alongside two brilliant runners-up. I hope you will have the chance to read them at your leisure during the last of these lazy summer days, before the time comes to buckle up and speed into a thrilling new season. £2,915, Salvatore Ferragamo LYDIA SLATER EDITOR-IN-CHIEF £550, Malone Souliers PS: It’s easier than ever to get Harper’s Bazaar delivered to your door – to order single copies, simply visit www.magsdirect.co.uk/harpersbazaar PHOTOGRAPH: JOSH SHINNER (postage and packaging are free), or for details of how to subscribe, turn to page 97. Plus, you can download digital issues via Readly or Apple News+. 58 | HARPER’S BAZAAR | September 2022 www.harpersbazaar.com/uk







Contributors SEPTEMBER 2022 Page 142 KALIANE BRADLEY GEMMA CHAN Voted the winner of Bazaar’s 2022 Page 98 short-story competition for her Our cover star grew up in Kent Page 156 charming and evocative tale ‘Golden MAGGIE O’FARRELL WORDS BY BROOKE THEIS. PHOTOGRAPHS: JOSH SHINNER, COURTESY OF BETTE FRANKE, KALIANE BRADLEY AND MAGGIE O’FARRELL and has had roles in blockbusters Years’, this London-based writer and including Crazy Rich Asians and BETTE FRANKE commissioning editor for Penguin Ahead of the publication of her latest Marvel’s Eternals. Last year, she Classics has seen her work featured novel The Marriage Portrait, the launched the #StopESEAHate After the Dutch model made her in Granta and The Willowherb Review, author explores the history and campaign to raise awareness of debut on the catwalk at Jil Sander in as well as the nature-writing language of jewellery in ‘Hidden discrimination against Asian Milan in 2006, she was snapped up anthology Gifts of Gravity and Light. gems’. Her bestselling books include communities. This month, she for Chanel, Dries van Noten and Your most treasured piece of I Am, I Am, I Am and Hamnet, which appears in Don’t Worry Darling, Hermès shows, and starred in jewellery ‘An emerald necklace that won the Women’s Prize for Fiction. which she discusses on page 142. campaigns for Yves Saint Laurent. I bought in Phnom Penh the very Your most treasured piece of Your most treasured piece of In this issue, she showcases the first time I went to Cambodia with jewellery ‘My Alex Monroe earrings.’ jewellery ‘My popo’s [grandmother’s] dazzling new-season collections. my whole family.’ Something you wear to feel jade ring; it’s very special.’ Your most treasured piece of Something you wear to feel indestructible ‘The pair of silver Something you wear to feel jewellery ‘A gold necklace I got indestructible ‘A full-skirted scarlet three-strap Vivienne Westwood indestructible ‘Supportive when my oldest son was born. It dress from an Etsy shop called shoes I got married in.’ but comfortable underwear.’ now holds three charms with each Hearts & Found. People really stay The book on your bedside table The book on your bedside table of my children’s first initial on it.’ swept after I sweep past them in it.’ ‘Emma Donoghue’s riveting Haven, ‘Reality is Not What it Seems by the Something you wear to feel The book on your bedside table Deborah Eisenberg’s stories and physicist Carlo Rovelli. It sort of indestructible ‘A pair of heels.’ ‘At the top is How to Read Now by a proof of Donal Ryan’s new book.’ makes my brain hurt. In a good way.’ The book on your bedside table the brilliant Elaine Castillo.’ Someone you’d swap wardrobes Someone you’d swap wardrobes ‘Bunny by Mona Awad.’ Someone you’d swap wardrobes with ‘Iris Apfel, in a heartbeat.’ with ‘Rihanna. She’s got pretty Your biggest fashion faux pas with ‘Shannyn Sossamon as Jocelyn Your biggest fashion faux pas good clothes.’ ‘I never iron…’ in A Knight’s Tale.’ ‘A mint-green Ossie Clarke dress Your biggest fashion faux pas Your biggest fashion faux pas I wore to a party. Only when I saw ‘A maroon waistcoat that I wore to ‘American Apparel bodycon as the photographs did I realise that it all my school discos.’ office wear.’ was ever-so-slightly transparent.’ Page 204 62 | HARPER’S BAZAAR | September 2022 www.harpersbazaar.com/uk













STYLE EDITED BY AVRIL MAIR COSSETING KNITWEAR Changing weather calls for layers, and Ermanno Scervino’s temptingly tactile dress-and-coatigan ensemble is the chicest way to wrap up when the temperature drops. Embroidered wool coat, £4,050; wool dress, £1,010, both, Ermanno Scervino. Leather bag, £2,690, Cartier thlowivneegs Cultivate the ultimate transitional wardrobe with capacious coats, chunky clogs and cosy cashmere PHOTOGRAPHS BY KRISTIN VICARI STYLED BY ROSIE ARKELL-PALMER

THE EFFORTLESS THROW-OVER Give volume and versatility to luxurious basics – and ward off any riverside breezes – with Ferragamo’s colourful cloak. Cashmere poncho, £1,325, Salvatore Ferragamo. Satin vest, £405, Etro. Satin trousers, £265, Polo Ralph Lauren. Suede boots, £795, Manolo Blahnik THE SLOUCHY BAG A low-slung suede carryall by Polo Ralph Lauren gives the Noughties’ hobo handbag a refined update, bringing laid-back elegance to utility. Suede bag, £749, Polo Ralph Lauren

THE COOL CLOGS These Seventies staples have clip-clopped back onto the fashion set’s wishlist, and there are none more covetable than Dior’s slip-ons. Wear them with floral denim for a full-on retro revival. Leather clogs, £1,150, Dior THE PLUM TRENCH A classic investment piece in a bold shade, Cecilie Bahnsen’s magnificent mac will see you through (inevitable) downpours year-round. Rubberised-cotton coat, about £3,175, Cecilie Bahnsen. Printed denim trousers, from £1,780, Dior KRISTIN VICARI

THE NEW BALLET PUMPS Never underestimate the timeless appeal of a pair of dainty flats. Pirouette and jeté in Miu Miu’s glorious satin ballerinas – worn with thick, super-soft socks on cooler days. Satin ballet pumps, £650; cashmere socks, £320, both Miu Miu THE UNLIKELY DUO Co-ordinate Fendi’s striped Baguette bag with matching shorts for a breezy touch of maritime style. Cashmere jumper, £780, Max Mara. Cotton shorts, £95, Bailey x Budd. Cotton bag, £2,150, Fendi

THE STATEMENT SUNGLASSES Simultaneously dramatic and mysterious, Tom Ford’s maximalist aviators suit every face shape. Those hoping to stay incognito, beware: you will be noticed. Sunglasses, £335, Tom Ford. Alpaca cardigan, £2,400; cashmere turtleneck, £890; jeans, £770; brass necklace, £460, all Celine by Hedi Slimane. Leather clutch bag, £2,180, Bulgari KRISTIN VICARI

THE MASCULINE WORDS BY BROOKE THEIS. HAIR AND MAKE-UP BY LOU BOX AT ONE REPRESENTS, USING HAIR BY SAM MCKNIGHT AND SURRATT. STYLIST’S ASSISTANT: EMILY REES. MODEL: STERRE HAKET AT PREMIER OVERCOAT This season is about contrasting oversize outerwear with delicate dresses. Make Loro Piana’s iteration your wardrobe hero. Cashmere coat, £7,850; satin dress, £2,885; leather bag, £2,165, all Loro Piana. Cashmere vest (just seen), about £730, Barrie. Stainless steel and diamond watch, £6,300, Jaeger-LeCoultre THE POWER BOOTS Splendidly sturdy with glamorous gilded hardware, Vivienne Westwood’s military-inspired lace-ups are ideal for rambles in the urban jungle. Leather and metal boots, £710, Vivienne Westwood KRISTIN VICARI



STYLE Necklace, £6,300, Sophie Bille Brahe Timeless tweed A heritage material that still CHANEL weaves its magic £595, Simone Rocha LYDIA SLATER £350, Self-Portrait Editor-in-chief ‘Eternally elegant, tweed will Coat, from a take you effortlessly from the selection, Highlands to haute couture. Chanel’s A/W 22 show was a Chanel hymn to the fabric – dresses, tights and even the walls of the Coat, £2,000, show venue were swathed in Liberowe vibrant iterations, to stylish effect.’ Earrings, £1,160, £2,300, Bulgari Chanel £920, Alberta EDITORS’ Necklace, from a From a Ferretti CHOICES selection, Chanel selection, This season’s standout trends, £3,770, Omega £4,160, as selected by our experts Chanel Fine Jewellery Chanel COMPILED BY NATALIE ZANNIKOS Jacket, £2,310, Carolina Herrera Gabrielle Chanel in Scotland in about 1926 £12,700, Louis Vuitton Earrings, £1,110, Chanel Trousers, £1,150, Carolina Herrera CHANEL £1,950, Celine £8,870, PHOTOGRAPHS: © PHOTO DR, PHOTOGRAPH: RICHARD AVEDON © THE RICHARDby HediChanel AVEDON FOUNDATION, IMAXTREE, PIXELATE, EMMA HARDY, OLIVER HOLMSSlimane HOW TO WEAR IT £1,885, Chanel While head-to-toe tweed dazzles on the catwalk, in real life it’s more chic kept to a few key pieces – a www.harpersbazaar.com/uk jacket, coat or bag for preference. 76 | HARPER’S BAZAAR | September 2022

From a The October selection, 1962 cover of Harper’s Bazaar, Chanel photographed by Richard Avedon Skirt, £1,245, Erdem £495, Vivienne Westwood Belt, £620, Etro £2,200, Molly Goddard Bracelet, £11,500, Cartier £610, Prada DIOR HOW TO WEAR IT The dark romance of Dior is my inspiration this season: I’ll wear a dramatic but demure lace dress with chunky, stompy boots and a smattering of diamonds. Tasaki’s ultra-modern take on a tennis bracelet lends the look a punk edge. £4,800, Dior Dark and stormy Earring Jumper, £1,600, (sold singly), Dior Add a dash of daring by pairing jet-black tones with sleek, sharp jewellery £9,250, Dior Joaillerie £1,850, Alexander McQueen Blazer, £1,465, Alberta Ferretti £1,365, Alberta Ferretti ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Dress, £1,535, £4,545, Emilia Wickstead Chanel AVRIL MAIR £830, Celine by Hedi Slimane Group luxury fashion director ‘Oh my goth! Black is back – did it £2,990, ever go away? A/W 22 is infused Alexander McQueen with a new drama and energy. Ladylike looks get tweaked and Bracelet, twisted, from Molly Goddard’s from a selection, explosion of tulle to McQueen’s Tasaki spray-painted shoulder bag.’ www.harpersbazaar.com/uk September 2022 | HARPER’S BAZAAR | 77

Bazaar’s January £4,200, Molly £1,450, 1952 cover, Goddard Miu Miu photographed by Richard Avedon Earrings, £195, £375, Erdem Simone Rocha About £3,060, Giambattista Valli £440, Wandler HOW TO WEAR IT Ring, from a selection, Garrard Match shoes, bags and even hair colour (as seen at Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini) to your dress for a breathtaking head-to-toe look, or team a crimson palette with silver heels to add edge. £5,305, Carolina Herrera LOEWE LANVINAbout £340, Balenciaga PHOTOGRAPHS: PHOTOGRAPH: RICHARD AVEDON © THE RICHARD AVEDON FOUNDATION, ALAMY, IMAXTREE, PIXELATE, COURTESY OF MIRANDA ALMOND, FREDERIC ARANDAEarrings, £100,From a selection, Vivienne Westwood Dior £1,365, Philosophy About £1,020 £1,490, di Lorenzo Serafini Casablanca Burberry Red and pink Master the art of the clash by pairing two sister shades in one outfit £550, Jennifer Chamandi £510, Max Mara Ring, from a From a selection, MIRANDA ALMOND selection, Miu Miu Solange Contributing fashion editor £7, 250, Hermès ‘This autumn, I’ll take my cue from £475, Neous Fendi and mix pale pink with cherry-red details for a strong yet 78 | HARPER’S BAZAAR | September 2022 delicate look. From Lanvin’s blooming floral gown to Giambattista Valli’s frothy blush dress, I’m rediscovering the romance of rouge.’ www.harpersbazaar.com/uk

STYLE £1,390, £425, Burberry Gucci Bracelet, £3,275, Tiffany & Co £335, £650, Margaret Howell Miu Miu LEITH CLARK £2,570, Van Cleef MIU MIU Ring, from a & Arpels selection, Contributing fashion editor £330, Celine by ‘Inspired by the timeless style Hedi Slimane Cartier of Charlotte Rampling in Sixties London the classic 1966 film Georgy Girl – all big hair and high Give a nod to mod with looks that hemlines – I’m taking a sartorial belong on Carnaby Street trip back to Swinging London.’ About £35, Social Goods Ring, about £495, Loewe £360, Leith Clark x Catbird £1,580, Paco £680, Armani Rabanne £495, Coach Dress, £3,370, Carolina Herrera £1,350, Roger Beret, about £335, Vivier Maison Michel £650, Simone Julie Christie Rocha in 1964 From £3,400, Dior From £4,200, Dior £395, DIOR HOW TO WEAR IT The Vampire’s A slick of brown eye pencil around the lash line and Wife a pair of grey-ribbed cashmere tights are two easy £8,050, Van Cleef ways to embrace this trend. & Arpels September 2022 | HARPER’S BAZAAR | 79 www.harpersbazaar.com/uk

STYLE Bag, about Ring, £6,150, £1,190, Bulgari £940, Giorgio Armani Balenciaga £510, £620, Max Mara Edeline Lee Necklace, CHARLIE £6,800, Bulgari HARRINGTON £95, Contributing fashion editor Brora ‘Simplicity is everything, as Prada proved when it sent £420, Olivia models breezing down the von Halle catwalk in white vests. I’ll be mixing proportions – an oversize coat here, a slinky slip dress there – for an impression of considered nonchalance.’ £260, Loewe PRADA£470, Stella McCartney THE ROW About £1,150, Givenchy Easy does it £2,910, Louis An elegant sufficiency is the key Vuitton to confident dressing this season Kate Moss on £950, Balenciaga at £750, Stella the cover in Matchesfashion McCartney July 1993 Necklace, £890, Celine by Hedi Slimane £590, Celine From a selection, by Hedi Vacheron Slimane Constantin HOW TO WEAR IT £590, Marni £295, Kassl Editions ‘Rethink your basics: try a wide-legged pair of jeans for an unusual silhouette, upgrade a casual shirt with a chunky Earrings, £3,400, choker or show some décolletage beneath a favourite blazer.’ Chaumet 80 | HARPER’S BAZAAR | September 2022 www.harpersbazaar.com/uk

£220, Duke Jane Birkin & Dexter in 1974 £3,350, Chopard £325, Marfa £1,950, Celine Stance by Hedi Slimane Earrings, £175, £325, Giovanni Raspini Re/Done Necklace, £430, £11,100, HOW TO WEAR IT Giovanni Raspini Cartier Work out what style of jeans suits you best, and invest in a pair from a good-quality, sustainable denim brand such as Re/Done. Elevate the look with beautiful gold jewellery and a finely crafted watch. £1,880, Khaite PHOTOGRAPHS: PATRICK DEMARCHELIER, SHUTTERSTOCK, IMAXTREE, PIXELATE, COURTESY OF CHARLIE HARRINGTON, TOMO BREJC £2,400, Celine £59, £211, Extreme by Hedi CELINE BY HEDI SLIMANE Brora Cashmere Slimane DIOR Dynamic denim £3,990, Alexander The hardest-working fabric in fashion McQueen is still ripe for reinvention Blondie bag, £2,340, Gucci Necklace, £4,575, Annoushka £250, ELV Denim £100, New Balance £852, Balmain CATHY KASTERINE £1,250, Stella £690, Celine McCartney by Hedi Contributing fashion editor Slimane ‘For me, the best trends are the ones that stand the test of time. £1,900, Alaïa £1,445, Loro Denim can be used as a base Piana for all kinds of looks, whether worn with a silk shirt and jacket for a more tailored style, or with knitwear and a trench to convey effortless cool.’ www.harpersbazaar.com/uk September 2022 | HARPER’S BAZAAR | 81

STYLE I’m after a demi-saison evening dress, one that isn’t too warm and hasn’t been seen everywhere. ERDEM Can you point me in the right direction? Actually, you don’t need a dress. What you want is LOEWE a clever co-ord – a matching two-piece skirt and top set that passes muster as a dress, with all the AAvsrkıl £215, EMILIA WICKSTEADassociated ease and elegance, but offers much In a regular new column, Saint Laurent more versatility. One shape on the bosom and our fashion director PHOTOGRAPHS: IMAXTREE, JASON LLOYD-EVANS, GETTY IMAGESanother on the bottom? Buy different sizes. Invited Avril Mair answers £155, to events with the same people? Split up the co-ord. your style conundrums Hunza G Erdem and Emilia Wickstead are especially good at and solves your this – Erdem’s gorgeous floral maxi skirts are often sartorial headaches shown with a knit, while Emilia’s simple, strong silhouettes lend themselves to a crisp white shirt. I’m jetting off for a late-summer break but I don’t have my swimwear sorted. Is there a really chic Hybrid working is great, but it means I’m swimming costume that looks sophisticated constantly lugging around a laptop along with but has a bit of tummy/bosom control? half my worldly possessions. What’s a good Caring about looking thin these days marks you out bag to take me from boardroom to bar? as a millennial – Gen Z fully embrace body diversity. It’s no coincidence that the most successful So forget about those ‘miracle’ swimsuits that suck accessories launch of the past few years is Dior’s and tuck everything in; nobody needs boning on the Book Tote – a triumph of both style and substance. beach. Instead, look to Hunza G. Established in Maria Grazia Chiuri has brought a pleasing the 1980s and relaunched by the designer Georgiana pragmatism to the brand, epitomised by a bag that Huddart, it’s known for its sleek, chic and ‘one size is designed to hold everything you could need in fits all’ swimwear made from a sculpting seersucker a working day: laptop, spare shoes, small dog etc. fabric that works wonders on any and every body. My whole wardrobe consists of 50 shades of 82 | HARPER’S BAZAAR | September 2022 black. How do I introduce colour into my outfits? I fail to see the problem here. But if you must, start with eye-catching accessories – a brightly coloured shoe or bag that matches nothing but goes with everything. Leopard print also works as a neutral, as does anything metallic. And I love the graphic simplicity of pairing black with white. It disrupts the eye so you don’t look dark and gloomy, and is impactful without any real effort. If the white part of an outfit is a simple top, it allows you to wear more decadent fabrics, the kind of pieces you’d normally save for evening. A focus on texture and embellishment keeps things interesting, while a flash of white near the face is uplifting. Fashion dilemma? Email your questions to [email protected]. From a selection, Dior www.harpersbazaar.com/uk





FASHION STYLE Celia Kritharioti on Manganari BY BROOKE THEIS beach, Ios. All dresses, from PHOTOGRAPHS BY R ACHEL LOUISE BROWN a selection, Celia Kritharioti House of Couture My mstlıyyfele, The designer Celia Kritharioti models some of her couture confections as she takes Bazaar on a tour of her beautiful Grecian beach retreat AT THE REMOTE MANGANARI house in Greece, is running her pedicured a silky black kaftan embroidered with gold, beach on the Greek island of Ios, Celia Krith- toes through the sand while eating a choco- blue and white beads, her hair scooped up in arioti and I are sitting beside each other in late ice-cream from the neighbouring taverna. a claw-clip. ‘I like to be on the water,’ she hammocks. The sun is setting behind the adds, looking out at the sea. ‘Waking up and mountains and the day has come to a natural ‘This place is a huge inspiration for me – swimming is very relaxing for me. I think hush, bar the lapping of the glassy sea and the light and the colours of the sky, of nature,’ I was a fish in a previous life…’ the distant hum of a jet-ski circling the bay. she says. After a day slipping in and out of The couturière, who owns the oldest fashion her own extravagant designs for Bazaar’s Kritharioti and her husband, the ship- photo-shoot, she is now dressed casually in owner Nikolas Tsakos, converted a former www.harpersbazaar.com/uk September 2022 | HARPER’S BAZAAR | 85

Some of Kritharioti’s favourite possessions, including her Hermès slides (right) and a rattan chandelier restaurant into their eight-bedroom beach ‘The power is in all of them – Nina Ricci, Dior, Chanel – house in 2019. Theirs is a consummately the woman who is and I saw how they were doing amazing cosmopolitan family: today, Kritharioti’s wearing the clothes. embroidery, like Lesage and Lemarié. 17-year-old twin girls Elizabeth and Irini are A dress looks different When I realised what I was watching, I had at the Athens home, while her 19-year-old goosebumps. Every dress was a piece of art.’ son Panagiotis is aboard their four-storey, on each one’ six-cabin superyacht moored nearby (which While Kritharioti was always enchanted Roger Federer rents from them annually by fashion, she never intended to join the for £200,000 a week). The family also industry; in fact, she studied economics at has houses in London and New York, and a Athens University. But while working tow- private helicopter to help them get around. ards her degree, she would visit Tsouxlos to ‘People ask where I come from, but I move create outfits with her father’s seamstresses about so much, I say, “I come from Earth.”’ that she could wear at parties. ‘I wore one of my dresses to a big event, and two of Her early years were spent in the port the atelier’s best clients asked if I could share town of Piraeus, near the Greek capital, the pattern. I said, “Of course.”’ She began to where she grew up surrounded by beautiful get more involved with the house and, in clothes. Both her father and grandfather 1992, she was handed the reins, and renamed were in the fashion business, and owned it Celia Kritharioti House of Couture. boutiques in their hometown and a couture house in Athens called Tsouxlos. As a child, Passionate about preserving traditional she, her older sister Lenia and younger dressmaking practices, Kritharioti imports brother Nikos would visit ateliers on trips fine needles from Paris and Milan that can fit to Paris with her parents. ‘We would go to through the tiniest of beads, and allows five months on average for each garment to be 86 | HARPER’S BAZAAR | September 2022 hand-stitched. ‘We have some amazing people who have worked at the atelier for 60 years, because they started learning there when they were 14 or 15,’ she says. The women who wear her dresses are her greatest source of inspiration: Beyoncé and Jennifer Lopez have sported the house’s crystal-festooned creations, while neon- bright gowns have been made for Kim Kardashian and Kerry Washington. For Kritharioti’s biannual haute couture shows, she has enlisted supermodels including Iman, Claudia Schiffer, Gisele Bündchen and Natalia Vodianova to showcase her col- lections. ‘The power is in the woman who is wearing the clothes,’ she says. ‘If 10 women put on the same dress, it looks totally different on each of them. Making dresses when you don’t know who is going to be wearing them doesn’t tell me anything.’ Her gowns are famously difficult to get www.harpersbazaar.com/uk

STYLE hold of – so much so that even princesses have resorted to messaging on Instagram to request appointments. ‘Women want some- thing that they don’t have, and it’s OK to be hard to get,’ she says. Those eager to obtain a Celia Kritharioti piece will be happy to learn she may launch a more accessible demi-couture line or a ready-to-wear collec- tion. ‘I have many things to give. I can do 100 new designs like this,’ she says, snapping her fingers. ‘I do it for the love of fashion, I’m not doing it for a living. I’m a person who has a lot of imagination. Sometimes I feel my vision isn’t mine, like it comes from some- where else, a connection to the universe.’ Her creativity also mani- fests in her fondness for painting. On the terrace hang four canvases she has adorn- ed with blue, yellow, pink and green letters, reading ‘Find what you love and let it kill you’. I notice one is still wet. ‘We had an accident bringing them over from Athens,’ she A Slim Aarons photograph in the living-room. Right: inside Kritharioti’s wardrobe ‘Sometimes I feel my vision isn’t mine, like it comes from a connection to the universe ’ www.harpersbazaar.com/uk September 2022 | HARPER’S BAZAAR | 87

STYLE Kritharioti FASHION HAIR BY VENNELA CHAMARTI. MAKE-UP BY NAOKO SCINTU AT THE WALL GROUP. WITH THANKS TO FUJIFILM UK photographed says, explaining that she has just repainted in the entrance featuring clambering monkeys and parrots one that got torn en route. ‘I was crying so to her Ios home perched on branches, and a tall palm-tree much – but emotions encourage creativity.’ lamp that dominates the corridor. CELIA’S WORLD Their palette complements the scheme Kritharioti takes the same instinctive that runs through the house, which takes its 4 approach to what she wears. A peek inside cue from a set of turquoise-and-lime glasses her wardrobe reveals a rainbow of floaty she bought 10 years ago from Via Monte dresses, and Hermès Oran slides in every Napoleone in Milan. In the living-room, shade – the tip of the iceberg when it comes there is a large L-shaped sofa in blue and to her shoe collection, which amounts to green, above which hangs a pair of Slim nearly a thousand pairs. Inside just one Aarons’ poolside photographs. ‘With art, handbag cupboard, there are numerous I don’t mind how much it costs because I’m artist-collaboration Lady Dior designs, not a collector,’ she says. ‘If I like to look at it, Bottega Veneta Cassette bags, Alaïa totes, I will buy it.’ Two of her favourite pieces, an acid-purple Valentino Garavani clutch found at Bergdorf Goodman in New York, and three Hermès Kelly bags, including are by the Floridian artist Mario Lopez Torres: an elaborate rattan chandelier a tangerine one that she has styled with a 2 floral Fendi strap. On 1 her left hand, a huge Boghossian ring of tur- 88 | HARPER’S BAZAAR | September 2022 quoise and diamonds catches the light as she sorts through her gowns in the adjoining dressing-room. ‘I am jealous of these precious stones because they’re going to live for many thousands of years after me, but they will carry my energy for my children,’ she muses. ‘My husband says, “I will give my children money to buy what they want”, but it’s not the same as having something your mother or father has given you. You cannot buy emotions.’ This is why Kritharioti chooses to sur- round herself with bright, kaleidoscopic hues: they bring her unfettered joy. ‘As I’m growing, I don’t let myself be sad – and colours make me happy,’ she says. ‘They’re optimistic and I celebrate life with them.’ 5 3 6 1 Tender is the Night by F Scott Fitzgerald (£7.99, Penguin English Library) 2 Armchair, from a selection, Joe Colombo at Bonacina 1889 3 Bag, £4,200, Dior 4 Glass, about £81, Laguna~B 5 Glass, about £140, Laguna~B 6 Bracelet, from a selection, Bulgari www.harpersbazaar.com/uk





JEWELLERY EDITED BY AVRIL MAIR All prices throughout from a selection, except where stated. White gold and diamond earrings, Graff. White gold, pearl, diamond and sapphire necklace; white gold and diamond bracelet, both Van Cleef & Arpels. White gold and diamond rings, from left: £7,500, Nour by Jahan. Boucheron. £4,500, DMR Jewellery. Tulle bib, £425; silk dress (worn underneath), £895, both Simone Rocha Swing time Dancing diamonds and pearls create a carnival of Twenties elegance against a theatrical backdrop of feathers and tulle PHOTOGRAPHS BY AMIE MILNE STYLED BY TILLY WHEATING

Platinum, diamond and onyx earrings, Bulgari. On hands, from left: rose gold, titanium and diamond ring, Hermès. White gold and diamond ring, Piaget. On arm, from top: sterling silver and pearl bracelet, £210, Giovanni Raspini. White gold and diamond bracelet, Fope. Feather top, £1,395, 16 Arlington AMIE MILNE

JEWELLERY White gold, diamond and pearl earrings, £4,500, DMR Jewellery. White gold and diamond necklace, Chopard. Gold, diamond and pearl ring (top), Buccellati. White gold, diamond and pearl rings, from £4,130, all Chaumet. White gold and diamond bracelet, De Beers. Feather dress, £1,209, Christopher Kane www.harpersbazaar.com/uk September 2022 | HARPER’S BAZAAR | 93

JEWELLERY White gold, pearl and diamond earrings, £3,100, Kiki McDonough. White gold, diamond and pearl necklace, David Morris. Sequin and feather top, £855, Paul & Joe 94 | HARPER’S BAZAAR | September 2022 www.harpersbazaar.com/uk

White gold and pearl ear cuff, Tasaki. White gold and diamond choker, De Beers. Platinum and diamond bracelet (top), Boodles. White gold, pearl and diamond bracelet, David Morris. Platinum and diamond brooch (in hair, just seen), Harry Winston. Silk and feather cape, Erdem AMIE MILNE

JEWELLERY HAIR AND MAKE-UP BY VICTORIA BOND, USING HAIR RITUEL BY SISLEY AND SISLEY. MANICURE BY MARIE-LOUISE AT CAREN, USING OPI. MODEL: AMAL-TOBI AT M+P MODELS. STYLIST’S ASSISTANT: EMILY REES Gold, diamond and pearl earrings, Buccellati. Platinum and diamond necklace, Harry Winston. On hand, from top: white gold and diamond ring, £2,950, Vashi. White gold and diamond ring, De Beers. White gold and diamond bracelet, Bulgari. Sequin bodysuit, Giambattista Valli AMIE MILNE

SUBSCRIBE TO HARPER’S BAZAAR JUST £5.25 FOR 5 ISSUES SAVE JUST 80% £5.25 £1.05 AN ISSUE PHOTOGRAPH: JOSH SHINNER GET 5 ISSUES FOR THE PRICE OF 1 WWW.HEARSTMAGAZINES.CO.UK/HZ-MAGAZINE OR RING 01848 438880 AND QUOTE OFFER CODE 1BZ12282 RECEIVE FREE INSTANT DIGITAL ACCESS TO THE CURRENT ISSUE** Terms and conditions: this offer is valid for new UK subscriptions by Direct Debit only. After your first 5 issues, your subscription will continue at a rate of £19.99 for 5 issues unless you are notified otherwise. *Subscribe via hearstmagazines.co.uk/hz-magazine to receive free instant digital access to the latest issue. The link will be included in the confirmation email. All savings are based on the standard cover price of £5.25. Subscriptions may not include promotional items packaged with the magazine. All orders will be acknowledged, and you will be advised of the start issue within 14 days. Subscriptions may be cancelled by providing 28 days’ notice. This offer cannot be used in conjunction with any other subscription offer and closes on 31 August 2022. For UK subscription enquiries, ring 01858 438880. Lines are open weekdays, 8am–9.30pm; Saturdays, 8am–4pm. Calls are charged at your standard network rate. Please check with your network provider for more details. For our data policy, visit www.hearst.co.uk/privacy-notice. All information is correct at the time of going to press. www.harpersbazaar.com/uk September 2022 | HARPER’S BAZAAR | 97

Hidden gems fFraorjmefwerovmemelenlembareyecicnnipagtBhonpeytauorcMrftseotaalraysgtuouagnrnsienlysoaOytchmmk’iFinebnangogrtlrat–elh,lleanpdast. CONSIDER, FOR A MOMENT, THE act of choosing something that fits the jewellery you particularly love. Are you a work. I have a silver and tiger’s-eye ring gold or silver person? Do you opt for one in the shape of an ‘H’ that I bought the day necklace or do you pile on multiple maximal- I finished my novel Hamnet. My husband ist chains that tangle and clink as you walk? gave me a pair of delicate gold feather To pierce or not to pierce? What is your earrings after I’d written a story about stance on, say, bracelets – an elegant addi- a guardian angel. tion to your arm, or a bothersome manacle that interferes with typing and coat cuffs? As well as defining us, jewellery can outlive us: it’s made of sterner stuff than we The ways in which we choose to are. Alex Monroe, whose intricate and often adorn and present ourselves are, of course, playful designs are inspired by the natural endlessly varied, but there is something world, says that his aim has always been intrinsically potent about jewellery. It trans- to create jewellery that ‘means something, mits silent signals as to our identity and that holds connections and memories for passions, and it never fails to evoke strong people… My life’s work has been trying to feelings. I have a friend who can’t abide make every piece worthy of carrying impor- thumb rings. Someone else I know won’t tant emotions through the generations.’ even hold a conversation with a person I was bequeathed a brooch in the shape of whose earrings don’t match their necklace. a tiny dog by one canine-oriented grand- mother, an engagement ring by the other, The metals and stones we display on our and a jangling charm bracelet by my bodies and clothes are often linked to mile- mother, filled with tiny silver mementoes stones in our lives: weddings, births, deaths, of her early life. I have strong memories of separations, journeys. I like to celebrate the examining it as a young child during dull completion of a book with jewellery: there is meals, rattling the green-glass jewel inside a pleasing and superstitious finality to the Jewellery still-life photographed by Melvin Sokolsky for Bazaar’s October 1961 issue 98 | HARPER’S BAZAAR | September 2022

JEWELLERY a little Guinness barrel or opening and shutting the miniature apple that revealed – the shock! – a naked Adam and Eve. My own daughters have a somewhat morbid predilection for browsing through my boxes, divvying up their future inher- itances. My youngest will often seize a necklace I’m wearing, cheerfully enquiring, ‘Can I have that when you die?’ It’s a question both flattering and galling because her into- nation is one of such acquisitive calm, but it is also moving that my little girls will wear these things in the hopefully distant future, when they are grown women and I am gone. That my mid-century Danish wedding ring will go on to have more adventures on one of their fingers or my rose gold bangle might encircle their wrist in adulthood is a com- forting thought. What better way is there to be present in the lives of your beloveds than to be symbolically carried with them? Our rings, necklaces and baubles can have long lives, or indeed, many lives. The oldest surviving archaeological items are not tools or cups or bones, but jewellery. One of the earliest examples of homo sapiens’ possessions is a bead, estimated to be 100,000 years old, found in Oued Djebbana in Algeria. Crafted from a smooth, pearly, pea-size nassarius shell, it has a deftly bored perforation, and looks exactly like the kind of thing worn around the neck of a teenager returning from a gap year. Only recently, an anthropologist in Croatia noticed that a collection of eagle talons displayed signs of polishing and carving, leading her to conclude that the urge to craft jewellery was present in our Neanderthal predecessors. This single dis- covery has forced scientists to re-evaluate the development of creativity in the human brain: the making of adornments involves complex cognitive functions and symbolic behaviour that was not previously credited to homo neanderthalensis. My preoccupation with the secret and enduring language of jewellery intensified during lockdown. I took to wearing my grandmother’s engagement ring, gifted to me because I bear her name, on my index finger, to remind me of her grit and resource- fulness in adverse situations. She would not, I reflected every time I looked at it, have September 2022 | HARPER’S BAZAAR | 99

JEWELLERY been cowed by the pandemic; she would There is something A portrait of Lucrezia PHOTOGRAPHS: NORTH CAROLINA MUSEUM OF ART/BRIDGEMAN IMAGES, have rolled up her sleeves and got on intrinsically potent de’ Medici (about 1560) GIFT OF MRS GEORGE KHUNER, COURTESY OF ALEX MONROE with the business of living and working and rearing children. I was also, at the about jewellery. by Alessandro Allori. time, writing a novel about a forgotten It transmits silent Left: a pair of Alex young duchess in Renaissance Italy and, signals as to our between bouts of home schooling and walks identity and passions Monroe earrings around the local cemetery, was poring over 16th-century portraits, trying to deci- Unfortunately for Lucrezia, it was not pher their inner stories and imagery. to be; she died a year after her arrival at her marital castello. And all that is left of her Did you know that in Renaissance art, now is a portrait that glistens with allusions pearls signify fidelity and purity? That the to her husband’s wealth and her father’s motto or impresa of a ruling family might be craving for power. encoded in a pair of earrings or a pendant, or in the gold-embroidered sleeves of a gown? When I look at her portrait, which is That a pomander in the hand hinted at pinned to my wall, I sometimes wonder good health and therefore strong genes? what she might choose to wear if she lived Every detail of dress, every opulent bracelet now. She’d probably want to tear off that or headdress you might see on the walls of heavy belt and restrictive headband. But the Uffizi, I realised, is freighted with great would she then opt for a thumb ring, or meaning. The aristocrats of the 15th and perhaps a gold Alex Monroe bee? Would 16th centuries possessed enormous wealth she have strong opinions on bracelets? and boy, did they like to show it. Might she pierce her tragus or even her nose, and adorn them with sparkling gems? There was a huge influx of gemstones I like to think so. into Europe in the 16th century, greater than ‘The Marriage Portrait’ by Maggie O’Farrell ever before, with the opening of sea routes (£25, Headline) is published on 30 August. to the East, fuelling an insatiable demand among the wealthy and the high-born for rubies, sapphires and emeralds. The placing of family fortunes in jewellery was a canny move: gems and gold and fine craftsman- ship only increase in value, could be used for public display of power, and would be handed down to future generations. Any self-respecting Renaissance nobleman or woman, when commissioning a portrait of themselves, would naturally want to be depicted to their advantage, with their wealth on show. Which is why, when you flick through a book about Renaissance art, you encounter more bling than in a dragon’s lair. When I first saw the only surviving painting of Lucrezia de’ Medici, the 15-year-old duchess who inspired my novel The Marriage Portrait, I noticed only her pale, narrow face and slightly anxious gaze. Only later did I find out that she is wearing both Medici and Este jewellery. The paint- ing, then, can be viewed as a statement of her destiny: she united the respective houses of her father and her husband Alfonso d’Este, and her body was expected to be the vessel for an heir to both dynasties. 100 | HARPER’S BAZAAR | September 2022 www.harpersbazaar.com/uk