Conde Nast Traveller

WHERE TO STAY The de sanTis family, the owners of Lake Como’s newly unveiled in the offering. At the breakfast bar, I enquire after buffalo cheese. 24-suite hotel Passalacqua, are fond of saying that their creation is about “Ricotta di bufala, treccia de bufala, o mozzarella di bufala?” comes the reviving the lost art of villeggiatura. Like so many quintessentially Italian sing-song reply.The most appealing place to eat is outdoors, and although concepts, it evolved during the Renaissance, when Venetians would flee there are private spots to sit on all the terraces, everyone is drawn like their febrile labyrinthine city for country mansions in the summer. moths to the colourful flame of the swimming terrace, with its elegant Villeggiatura meant cutting loose, taking spiritual refuge and doing la 200-year-old greenhouse. Here, one gets an idea of the Passalacqua guest: dolce far niente: sweet nothing. Passalacqua, a fine neoclassical villa they are of artistic sensibility, possibly inspired to dress in a girlish kaftan that’s now a perfectly confected hotel above the glittering lake, is made as vibrant as the flouncy, La DoubleJ-designed, Rajasthani-esque parasols, for that sweet nothing; like lingering in a pleasant dream. which offer a cheeky riposte to the interiors. First, there is the sublime setting.The enamel-blue lake, boats etching In a sense it is a contemporary extension of Passalacqua’s original silent lines across it like tiny water skeeters.The distant buzz of seaplanes grand plan. Back in the 12th century, the Humiliati order lived here, overhead, messengers from the outside world. From the pale-amber villa, wearing grey and practising mortification. But the count wanted to shuttered in sage, seven acres of terraces – olive groves, mimosa, David turn one of Como’s largest villas into a gathering point for Milan’s Austin roses, fountains and magnolia – descend to the shore. Profuse artistic elite. He hired architect Felice Soave and designer Giocondo banks of meticulously pruned jasmine waft their fragrance on the sleepy Albertolli, who decorated Florence’s Uffizi Gallery, to create the air. Centuries-old cedars of Lebanon lend shade to snaking cobbled cascading terraces, grand staircases, fountains and those tunnels. paths ploughed by a Fiat 500-turned-buggy the colour of an Aperol Spritz. “You sort of expect Botticelli angels to float by blowing trumpets, don’t Andrea Appiani, Napoleon’s court artist, was employed to paint the you?” says a Californian guest idly one morning on the swimming terrace. frescoes, including the beguiling 1790 Virgin with Child. In 1817, when the count died, his son Alessandro took up the mantle. Fuelled by his It is the little sister of the beloved Grand Hotel Tremezzo near Bellagio, passion for literature, art and music, he embellished the property with also run by Paolo and Antonella De Santis, along with their daughter objets d’art and books.The villa stayed in the family’s hands until 1919, Valentina. Originally an extravagant pleasure place for the great and good before passing through an Estonian baroness, a Hungarian philosopher of Milanese society, created in its current form by Count Andrea Lucini- and a garden-loving American banker. “YOU SORT OF EXPECT BOTTICELLI ANGELS TO FLOAT BY BLOWING TRUMPETS, DON’T YOU?” SAYS A CALIFORNIAN GUEST IDLY ONE MORNING ON THE SWIMMING TERRACE Passalacqua in 1787, it was acquired by the family in 2018.They spent three The grandest place to stay is the double-height balustraded music years and about £17 million bringing forth a labour of love that surely no room, called the Bellini Suite because the melodramatic operatic hotel chain could match.The whole place retains the ambience of a seques- composer wrote Norma and Sonnambula here. Passalacqua was the tered private home, landing elegantly on the right side of ostentation. setting for a love affair between him and Giuditta Cantù Turina, the frescoist Appiani’s great-niece. They lived together in nearby Villa The De Santises worked with interior designers Bamo, the Californian Salterio until 1833. team that has collaborated with Capella, Four Seasons and Peninsula hotels, while local architects Venelli Kramer did the pool, spa and Each suite is named after a Bellini character. Mine, the Beatrice, kitchen. But so many of the antiques, paintings and prints were sourced nods to his 1833 libretto Beatrice di Tenda, in which the heroine is from auctions and private homes by the family, who oversaw every sentenced to death. In her final aria, she begs, “Deh! Se un’urna è a me etched mirror and Il Bronzetto light fitting, including a magnificent concessa/Senza un fior non la lasciate” – “If I am allowed a tomb, candelabra of brass oak leaves in the dining room. For as much as the don’t leave it without a flower.” Hence, the space is a symphony of villa breathes Italian history – the Breccia Pontificia marble, the same dusky rose-pinks, original stucco and ceiling carvings; Fortuny lamps, stone chosen for Bernini’s sculptures and the tomb of Pope Urban VIII etched Barbini mirrored cabinets and hand-painted Bordoni leather in St Peter’s Basilica in Rome – it has also been a very intimate project. Ottoman tables. Bottega Conticelli pieces crafted from leather and wood include vintage-style steamer trunks that conceal televisions. Exquisite This new iteration is set around the original building, its 12 suites Beltrami linens are made with the fibres of Norway’s white birch. In baroquely Italian with original frescoes and ceiling carvings. The other the bathroom, Como silk wreaths the shuttered windows next to a rooms are divided between the eight-suite Palazz, repurposed ancient luscious roll-top bath. stables out the back with giant exposed beams; and, down by the lake, the four-suite Casa Al Lago, an updated Seventies house which can be Contemplating myself in the etched mirrors of my bathroom, which booked exclusively or by the room.The Palazz features hand-stencilled hang on magnificent Marbres du Roi and white-and-rose Dover Aurora walls in damask patterns and bronze light fittings; chandeliers made of marble panels, I feel grateful. That in 1787 – while France was lighting silk. It also contains a small spa stocked with Barbara Sturm products, the fire of revolution and the United States was birthing a constitution with wallpaper that replicates the Portaluppi Herbarium in Milan’s – an Italian count in Como was nurturing some rather more frivolous Atellani House. Next to the subterranean treatment rooms, sauna, steam grand ambitions. His pleasure dome has become 2022’s most perfect and ice bath, 18th-century tunnels extend their tentacles to the lake. Italian hotel; a place where villeggiatura lives again. LB The only thing that is simple about Passalacqua is the food. It is unfussy BOOK IT Scott Dunn offers four nights at Passalacqua from Italian cooking with local ingredients commandeered by Lombardy-born £3,750 per person, including flights and transfers. scottdunn.com chef Mauro Verza, whose background is in looking after prominent families, not restaurants.That is not to say there is no level of complexity September 2022 Condé Nast Traveller 49

The Food Special NEW PORTS OF CALL SAN SEBASTIAN FINALLY HAS THE HOTELS TO MATCH ITS MICHELIN STARS. BY PAUL RICHARDSON Saturday night in the parte vieja, ground zero of San SebaStian’S legendary food scene, and the party’s in full swing. Calle 31 de Agosto, bristling with pintxo bars along its length, is a roaring river of humanity – the hum of pure pleasure echoing between its stone walls. There are couples devouring mushroom croquetas at Gandarias; platters of artichoke hearts in crisp tempura batter making their way towards greedy customers over the bartop at Martínez. I see Lourdes Erquicia, a local food guide I’ve come to know over the years, leading a group of New Yorkers on their evening gastro-ramble from bar to bar – her first such tour in months – from prawn brocheta and crab tartaleta to anchovy on toast with foie gras and blueberry jam. Lourdes grins and waves in my direction. Shepherding the group into the downstairs bar at Casa Urola, she calls to the barman over the heads of the garrulous crowd: “Six Riojas, Iñaki, when you can!”

PHOTOGRAPH: ANA LUI WHERE TO STAY

WHERE TO STAY The Food Special Clockwise from top left: Lasala Plaza rooftop; plating up at Amelia; cocktail at The Blind Pig; dining room at Villa Soro; Ssua bar; dish of migas al pastor de Gorbea at Matalauva. Opposite, from left: Villa Soro exterior; minimalist style at Amelia. Previous pages, La Concha bay

It’s hard to imagine, as you contemplate the vibrant scene, that until places to eat: Zazpi at San Telmo Museoa, with its refined tasting menus; a decade ago these old-town streets were grimy and forbidding; a corner and Labe, attached to the Tabakalera arts centre, where genre-pushing where Basque separatist group ETA held sway. Equally, the misery of locavore dishes are part of the self-styled food laboratory. the past two years already seems like a distant memory. The pandemic hit San Sebastián with the force of an Atlantic storm. Hotel Maria The Parte Vieja, too, is buzzier than ever. The fiesta atmosphere Cristina, the city’s reigning grande dame, was commandeered as a Covid seems faintly unhinged, as if the city can’t quite believe it has its old hospital. For this gregarious town, not being able to rub shoulders with lazing/grazing lifestyle back.The classic pintxo bars – Ganbara,Txepetxa, strangers in a noisy bar was both an indignity and a psychological blow. La Cuchara de San Telmo and the rest – are still packing them in, but experienced pintxo pickers may prefer to head for a handful of newer But my recent visit has proved – to my great relief – that San Sebastián places, including Ssua (“fire” in Basque), a must-try for its dynamic is not only back with a vengeance, but there’s never been a better time grill-based cooking, and fish-focused Kofradia Itsas Etxea. to visit. Now, along with a galaxy of Michelin stars and a febrile creativity in its pintxo bars, cider-houses and asadores, there’s finally a critical At the same time, attention is increasingly swivelling away from the mass of good places to sleep. In a city once defined by characterless old town into less frenzied neighbourhoods. La Concha, overlooking four-stars and cheap-and-cheerful pensiones, a glut of fine hotels has one of the great urban beaches, has generally been trending downwards since its Twenties glory days, but the arrival of Villa Favorita is changing WHAT’S HAPPENING IS LESS ABOUT EXPERIMENTATION AND MORE ABOUT THE DESIRE TO BE ENTERTAINED. THERE ARE RELAXED NEW CONCEPTS SUCH AS BASQUE-MEX PHOTOGRAPHS: PAULO AIRAUDO; UNAI PEREZ AZALDEGUI/ come along at once, building on the 2017 arrival of Akelarre, the high- that. This 23-room townhouse is bringing back well-heeled Europeans STUDIO MANDRAGORA PHOTOGRAPHERS; ANA LUI design addendum to Pedro Subijana’s restaurant on Igeldo hill. with its exquisite gleaming interiors of brass, mirrors and hints of maritime style. In the basement, Argentinian Paulo Airaudo’s restaurant Chief among them is the revival of Villa Soro. Previously I wasn’t Amelia – which recently won its second Michelin star – shows the extent overly taken with the place – its mash-up of Surrey Tudor and bourgeois to which Latin American cooking is making waves here (expect more Basque feeling somehow frowzy and purse-lipped. But following its tacos, ceviche and cochinita pibil on pintxo-bar menus.) purchase and reopening by the Soldevila Ferrers, the family behind the Sant Francesc and Can Ferrereta in Mallorca, the old building has a Gros, behind Zurriola surf beach, is booming, too, as is the ever-more fresher edge. The makeover, in the careful hands of Núria Ferrer, main- attractive Centro.The latter was always an administrative and retail hub tains original elements such as the carved wooden staircase, the creaky but never had much to draw visitors until the opening of crisply minimal parquet flooring and the stained-glass roof of the central hall, comple- Hotel Arbaso a few years ago. Its restaurant, Narru, where chef Iñigo mented with smart new furnishings, judiciously chosen modern art and Peña creates stripped-down dishes based on cocina de producto, is just bathrooms that nail the crisp Art Deco look. part of a growing local food scene. This is seen especially around San Martín food market, where new additions include smart grill bar Maun San Sebastián’s restaurant culture, once again firing on all cylinders, and Rua887, whose white tablecloths belie free-spirited cooking. also feels like it’s adapting.The hallowed gastro temples – Arzak, Rekondo, Akelarre, Mugaritz – are mostly booked out for the summer. But so much One day, I spy a family enjoying the sunshine on Rua887’s terrace. of what’s happening is less about furrow-browed experimentation and Tacos of smoked pork rib have just arrived on the table, along with more about a simple desire to be entertained. There are relaxed new huge carabinero prawns and a platter of oysters with cava foam. “What concepts such as The Blind Pig speakeasy, supper club Cortázar Donostia fun!” exclaims the father, as they all tuck in – a remark that describes and Basque-Mex gastrobar Gatxupa. Even art centres have smart new the current mood in a city that is very much enjoying life. September 2022 Condé Nast Traveller 53

WHERE TO STAY The Food Special FRESH TAKES ON THE CITY PHOTOGRAPHS: UNAI PEREZ AZALDEGUI/STUDIO MANDRAGORA PHOTOGRAPHERS; INAKI CAPEROCHIPI PHOTOGRAPHY Clockwise from top: sheep’s-milk WHERE TO STAY ice cream with cider gel at Ssua; staff member at Bar Arenales; bar at Villa VILLA SORO Dating from 1898, this former summer house Favorita; pumpkin ravioli at Arenales on the outskirts of Gros still has quirky charm, but the new owners have added a certain arty cool, as well as vintage Holland bikes for jaunts to the beach. Doubles from about £125; villasoro.es HOTEL ARBASO It’s the sort of place San Sebastián has been oddly lacking – a cool townhouse boutique with interiors of oak, marble and iron. Suites are almost apartment-sized and look over the cathedral from ornamental balconies. Narru restaurant has become a cult destination for its creative seasonal food, from pig’s tail and scarlet prawns to spider crab and Iberian pork jowls. Doubles from about £130; hotelarbaso.com VILLA FAVORITA Opened mid-pandemic, this elegantly whitewashed seafront offshoot of the Hotel de Londres has quickly claimed the title of the city’s most glamorous new address. Check out the trompe-l’oeil murals by Paul Christopher McKenna. Amelia restaurant is overseen by Paulo Airaudo, whose other projects include top trattoría Da Filippo and speakeasy The Blind Pig. Doubles from about £140; hotelvillafavorita.com LASALA PLAZA At this breezily modern spot in a grand stone building on an old-town square, the standout feature is the rooftop bar, with a long, slim pool and wide-screen harbour views – as good as any hotel in the city. Doubles from about £125; lasalaplazahotel.com WHERE TO EAT KOFRADIA ITSAS ETXEA Now in its second season, this gleaming pavilion on the harbourside is a laudable project serving sustainably caught and lesser-known species of fish. The “brotherhood” behind it also runs net-repairing workshops and guided tours of the fishing port. About £50 for two; kofradia.eus BAR ARENALES What was once a neighbourhood hangout on the boulevard is now a bistro that breaks new ground for traditionally minded San Sebastián, with a modern take on plant-based cooking and natural wines. About £50 for two; @arenales.bar GAIA Toledo-born chef Ismael Iglesias follows his success at Kata4 and Rita with this interesting venture at the Zenit hotel in the newly built Morlans district. The emphasis is on long- cured meats and locally landed fish, cooked skillfully on the charcoal grill. About £60 for two; gaiadonosti.com GATXUPA Playful Basque-Mexican fusion by Bruno Oteiza – try the spider-crab tostada with green chilli and peanuts – in a cool space in Gros, where the industrial look is spiced up with blasts of tropical colour. Pinxtos from £8; gatxupa.com WHAT TO DO VILLA MAGDALENA Cy Schnabel, son of Julian, has created a contemporary gallery in the artfully weather-beaten space (formerly his father’s studio) below the family house in Igeldo. By appointment only. villamagdalena33.com ISLA DE SANTA CLARA Cristina Iglesias’s monumental, lava-like bronze sculpture inside the lighthouse on Santa Clara, an islet in La Concha bay, is a major talking point in San Sebastián. Ferries to the island leave from the old harbour. MIMO BITE THE EXPERIENCE This bijou gastro-tourism outfit, run by chefs Patricio Fuentes and Eneko Irizar, offers Basque cookery classes and foodie tours from within the Hotel Maria Cristina. mimo.eus



WHERE TO STAY The Food Special THE WEEKENDER Bincoletto is more like Keythorpe’s spiritual guide than a mere gardener. Once a forager for KEYTHORPE HALL, LEICESTERSHIRE a guerrilla unit of the Italian army, he came to England in the 1990s for a woman, but also for In the gardens of Keythorpe Hall the resident house, dotted with auction-bought Chesterfields British mushrooms and nettles, which he sold ethnobotanist and wild-food academic Claudio and chandeliers, with textural modern art for at London’s Borough Market to esoteric chefs. Bincoletto is picking wheat-scented St George’s sale alongside portraits of the various lords His broad learning – ethnobotany is essentially mushrooms as a cuckoo calls in the forest. who have presided over the place. But food is how plants relate to people and culture – means Nearby are the furry remains of a hare’s leg, the main calling card, whether for weekend he can go off on tangents almost as wild as the possibly hunted by the red kite that lives in an guests or locals coming for its twice-monthly gardens during happily unpredictable tours. ancient beech tree and often hovers on the seven-course dining club. Chefs Peter Johansen airwaves, looking through the high sash windows and Bent Varming have worked in some of the Bincoletto’s philosophy revolves around of the grand house.The hall, completed in 1843 great temples of provenance – Johansen at observing and working holistically with the land, rather than imposing rigid human order (he refers to Capability Brown as “Calamity Brown”). In the old walled garden, which was overrun with towering nettles five years ago, there are lines of punchy garlic mustard, soft purple orach, tender asparagus and much more, which supply local vegetable boxes and leading London chefs, including Ollie Dabbous. Van Teeffelen also sells hand-cut flowers, some of which are left to dry outside the wine cellar. Many of Bincoletto’s interventions in the wider grounds are gentler. Brashes of fallen trees have been left to provide havens for small mammals. On a slope down from the house, a patch of roughly cut grass provides an easy hunting ground for the local kestrel, while barn owls can find prey in the wilder section next to it. Scores of creatures have returned to this nurtured Arcadia: song thrushes and newts; peacock,Adonis Blue and orange-tip butterflies. Of course, so much of this leads back to the long dining table at Keythorpe Hall, where my view is of rolling fields in an area Bincoletto compares to Chianti. I eat asparagus with brill- roe emulsion; a Cornish bass ceviche with fennel, kumquat and citrus-y rhubarb; a decep- tively simple salad of lovage and fennel tops. Those St George’s mushrooms are served with a red scarlet potato gnocchi, dressed with hogweed and cime di rapa brassicas. It is sublime yet unforced, with so much flavour straight from the earth. Godfrey points out that none of what’s hap- pening at Keythorpe is actually trendy – more THE CHEFS WORK WITH WHAT THE RESIDENT ETHNOBOTANIST GIVES THEM – FROM OYSTER PHOTOGRAPHS: SIM CANETTY-CLARKE LEAF TO HOP SHOOTS PICKED ON THE EXACT THREE DAYS OF THE YEAR THEY TASTE BEST by the 11th Lord Berners, has been returned Copenhagen’s Relae; Varming at St John in a return to the days when aristocrats had walled to its former glory by owners Giles Godfrey and London – but were drawn by the purity of the gardens to entertain guests; when pickling and Barbara Van Teeffelen and recently reopened seasonality at Keythorpe, where all but a few flower-drying were simply shortcuts to good as a full-service rental for up to 20 guests. ingredients are local. Johansen and Varming living.This is a hedonistic locavorism that feels generally work with what Bincoletto, himself a like Bincoletto’s view of nature: sensual, crea- Godfrey, who grew up in the area, and Dutch trained chef, gives them – from aptly named tive and as seductive as borage to a bee.TS Van Teeffelen renovated Keythorpe Hall over oyster leaf to hop shoots picked on the exact From £6,000 a night; seven-course supper clubs a decade, doing the interiors themselves. three days of the year they taste best. cost £80 (keythorpehall.co.uk) There’s an elegant undone-ness to the spacious 56 Condé Nast Traveller September 2022



CULTURE-HOPPING WITH OLIVIA DEAN THE LONDON-BORN SINGER REVEALS HER MOST MEMORABLE DESTINATIONS MATCHSTICK BARAFUNDLE BAY FEIRA DA LADRA SABRINA’S TREEHOUSE THE RECORD COLLECTOR PHOTOGRAPH: THEO BATTERHAM PIEHOUSE LONDON PEMBROKESHIRE LISBON CONCERTS GRENADA LOS ANGELES “London is the best city “I was one of those “One of my favourite “I went to Grenada at “I recently went to LA for in the world, honestly, people who thought things to do in a new city Christmas, and it was the the first time, and on my and this is my local spot. British beaches were all holiday of a lifetime – it first day I found this tiny It’s a tiny, community- just cobbles and horrible, is just to walk around was like, wow, paradise record store. I don’t want built archway down a then I came here after aimlessly, with absolutely to cuss out LA because random car park, and a playing The Jazz Café – no direction or plan. You exists. A local artist, I haven’t seen enough of couple of my mates work and it was like Barbados. Sabrina Francis, had seen it to make a judgment, behind the bar, so we I had no idea there was either find something my yellow truck lockdown always know we’re going anything like this in the interesting or a stranger tour and ran a similar thing, but I missed London’s to have fun. They do UK. We camped, made will point you towards the Treehouse Concert. weirdness and this felt cabaret, theatre, you a fire, cooked fish, went something cool. In Lisbon She invited me and I sang real. It showed there were surfing. It was the perfect I found the biggest flea with her band. London can actual humans here who name it – and every 360 to the intensity of market I’ve ever seen. It be melancholy, which is weren’t only obsessed Wednesday there’s an the shows. You go from took us two-and-a-half beautiful, but there’s such with being influencers. amazing jazz night by this that weird thing – loads of hours to walk around, There were two little old band, Steam Down, and humans looking at you looking at other people’s jubilation in Grenada’s guys who just wanted to you can get up and sing singing about your most music. It was also special talk about music and with them. It’s where I’ve personal thoughts – to tat, which I love, and had the most inspiring the calm of the waves. It I bought a super-lovely because my family is show me cool stuff, conversations with total was dreamy, the perfect Guyanese and Jamaican. and we hung out for ages. strangers.” matchstick memory of summer.” peach shirt for three I’d always felt connected euros, which is now my to the Caribbean, but I’d I walked away with a theatre.com favourite. I feel I have a really cool bossa nova piece of that market with never been.” sabrinas record by Charlie Byrd.” treehouse.com me all the time.” For Olivia’s upcoming music and tour dates, see oliviadeano.com. She was speaking to Francesca Babb 58 Condé Nast Traveller September 2022



Clockwise from top left: Palazzo Fiuggi pool; brown rice with mushrooms, and entrance to MasQi; tiles, and chocolate roll with berries at Palazzo Fiuggi. Opposite, clockwise from top left: clean eating; farmhouse, and restaurant, MasQi

HEALTH FIX The Food Special ALL WELL AND GOOD DAISY FINER SURVEYS THE SPA SCENE TO DISCOVER THE LATEST IN THE WORLD OF SUPER-OPTIMISED NUTRITION “Let food be thy medicine and medicine be thy food.” So said Hippocrates – and since ancient times, humans have drawn on nature’s bounty not just for sustenance but also for healing. Ayurveda, India’s millennia-old wellness system, is based on the belief that everything in nature has a medicinal value. As I learnt at Ananda in the Himalayas, even humble ingredients such as nutmeg can be stirred into warm milk to aid sleep, or mixed with saffron to lift the spirits. Destination spas have long put nutrition at the heart of their ethos. When Edmond and Deborah Szekely opened the world’s very first such retreat, Mexico’s Rancho La Puerta in 1940, it offered vegetarian PHOTOGRAPHS: BRITNEY GILL; NATHALIE KRAG meals under starry skies, homemade germinated wheat crackers and juicing – and others have followed suit ever since. After all, what’s the point of a lymphatic massage if it’s followed by a can of Pringles? What we are witnessing now is a collective awakening around what good food really means today: local, seasonal and sustainable; good for us, but more importantly good for the planet. As Satish Kumar, founder of Devon’s pioneering ecology-focused Schumacher College, says, “an eco-ecology rather than an ego-ecology”. This year, Deborah Szekely celebrated her hundredth birthday. Maybe this has something to do with The Ranch’s ever-evolving slow-food manifesto – now with organic gardens, a cookery school, a new four-week Soil-to-Table residential programme – and the most divine ricotta cheesecake, velvety with berries and lavender.  September 2022 Condé Nast Traveller 61

HEALTH FIX The Food Special eating,” she says. “Food that has been sitting in a fridge for too long or is overly processed is energetically dead.” MasQi’s brownies are made from sweet potatoes and its pomegranates are harvested biodynami- cally; the farmer optimises their energy by placing crystals among the crop and drumming, shaman-style, before picking them in alignment with the moon’s phases. Meanwhile, at Long Island’s Shou Sugi Ban House, Noma co-founder Mads Refslund serves up super-powered biodynamic produce such as fermented chickpeas, courgette flatbreads and house-made silken tofu – the ideal accompaniment to tea medita- tions and personalised consultations on the best foods for skin health. Savvy hotels, not just dedicated wellbeing destinations, are also increasingly looking to leading meat-free pioneers. The So Wild res- taurant at Soneva Jani in the Maldives is the brainchild of raw-food game changer Diana von Cranach, author of Rawfully Good, and for years the queen of Bali’s clean-eating food scene. Ninety per cent of its food is picked from the resort gardens. Also in the Maldives, the plant-based Botanica restaurant at One&Only Reethi Rah is curated by American chef Matthew Kenney, who sees himself as “crafting the future of food”. Even in the world of wellbeing some star spas stand out. In Thailand, Absolute Sanctuary in Koh Samui is as legendary for its superfood-rich juices as it is for its daily rota of yoga and reflexology (and at a more accessible price than the country’s beloved grandes dames such as Kamalaya and Chiva-Som). It’s not just in Asia that good things are brewing. The puri- fication temples of Europe are raising their game too. When I MY TROUT WITH BEETROOT AND HORSERADISH DIP REMINDED ME OF THE WOLSELEY – EXCEPT IT WAS PRECEDED BY EPSOM SALTS From top: pool at Ananda in recently visited Austria’s The Original FX Mayr, my breakfast of PHOTOGRAPHS: PATRICIA PARINEJAD; SEDIREA the Himalayas; hummus toasts at fresh trout with beetroot and horseradish dip reminded me of The Wolseley – except it was preceded an hour before by Epsom MasQi; watermelon pulp salts. Long gone are the endless days of spelt bread rolls. Science is increasingly part of the equation. At Italy’s Palazzo Fiuggi,  I believe adopting a more plant-based, planet-friendly diet is not chef Heinz Beck (of three-Michelin-starred La Pergola in Rome) has just a flash-in-the-pan trend, but something that will continually gain masterminded the creation of more than a thousand dishes, every single ground. Look to the example of holistic hideaway Preidlhof in Italy’s one approved by top medics to ensure balanced perfection. No wonder South Tyrol province, where kitchen and restaurant leftovers are given The Ranch Malibu – where nutrient-dense meals power guests through to local farms to be fed to their pigs. Or The Alpina Gstaad, home to a its hardcore fitness weeks – has chosen Fiuggi as the base for its first Six Senses spa, 350,000 biodiversity-supporting bees and a plastic-free European outpost. Meanwhile, at Switzerland’s stellar new flagship kitchen, where chef Martin Göschel uses leftover bread to make pizza Chenot Palace Weggis, a fast-working programme of exquisite and pasta. “I now have many young employees in my team and am three-course lunches and dinners still leads to astonishingly reduced caught up in the next-generation idea of taking care of our environ- waistlines, and can also include the add-on Chenot Molecular Lab blood ment,” he explains. He’s also revised the vegetarian menu and ensures test, which assesses gene activity. Results are honed into precisely all ingredients are sourced within 25 miles of the hotel. recommended lifestyle changes centred on food choices. Personalised “diagnostic” eating is on the rise, from 3GL metabolic Provenance is key not just to an ingredient’s carbon footprint, but testing at Euphoria Retreat in the Peloponnese to Daios Cove in Crete, to how it can make us feel. That’s why Sonia Ferrer is so particular where PNOE biometrics tests will assess your breath for 12 different about where she sources ingredients for her boutique macrobiotic hotel, biomarkers before recommending optimum foods. The future tastes MasQi The Energy House in Sierra de Mariola (expect a more intimate, bespoke. Out with punishing regimes and fad diets, in with modernised earthier experience than at Spain’s other macrobiotic player, SHA foodie cleansing escapes that marry science with nature. It’s no wonder Wellness Clinic). “We have to understand that when someone is centred the current spa scene tastes so satisfying. and living in peace, it depends an enormous amount on what they’re Healing Holidays offers trips to leading spas worldwide, including Chiva-Som, Palazzo Fiuggi and Euphoria Retreat; healingholidays.com 62 Condé Nast Traveller September 2022

This project is part-funded by the UK Government as part of the UK Community Renewal Fund Image credit: Daniel Alford OUT OF OFFICE sussexmodern.org.uk

ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE WELCOME TO RIOJA Raise a glass to Spain’s oenophilic heartland, where the ancient landscape is home to a thriving modern wine industry R olling hills dotted with stone bell and Rioja Oriental – and stopping along the Getting around Rioja is easy, with plenty towers, medieval monasteries way to explore a vast array of wines. of guided tours available if you’d rather leave and chic riverside towns, striking the driving to someone else, but there are also architecture nudging up against If your preference is for a classic style, a number of more immersive ways in which to snow-capped mountains and rich with spices and berry notes, head to enjoy all that this region has to o er. Switch vineyards stretching as far as the eye can see Marqués de Murrieta, which dates back to two wheels and meander along cycle trails – the region of Rioja in northern Spain is as to 1852. Here, traditional techniques meet that take you through mountains and villages, much a feast for the eyes as it is for the palate. the latest technologies, resulting in world- or gallop through the vineyards on horseback. class wines that frequently win awards For a completely di erent perspective, try Of course, you’ll know Rioja for its red – the Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial hot-air ballooning – nothing can beat the wine, but what you might not know is that feeling of awe and serenity as you glide silently this area also produces outstanding white, is a particular standout. Or visit Bodegas over the landscape, the vines stretching out rosé and even sparkling wines, with more Montecillo, one of the oldest wineries in Rioja, beneath you in all directions, vivid green than 560 bodegas spanning some 65,000 which makes a delicious buttery white wine lines stark against the red soil. hectares of vineyards – and all within an hour made from 100 per cent Viura grapes. At or so’s drive from Bilbao. Bodegas Ysios, meanwhile, you can sip wines Start your visit to this extraordinary region with knockout views of the majestic Sierra de before you even leave the UK by joining As Spain’s oldest wine region, Rioja ticks Cantabria mountains, whose undulating form Condé Nast Traveller for a celebration of Rioja all the boxes for a holiday rich in culture and inspired the winery’s dramatic architecture. at Sucre in Soho, London on 13 September. history while also throwing in some distinctly contemporary attractions, from the arresting Further Information Frank Gehry-designed Hotel Marqués de Visit riojacnt.eventbrite.co.uk to book the Riscal to Michelin-starred restaurants reader event. To discover Rioja’s diverse showcasing innovative Spanish cuisine. Such wine offering, from whites, rosados and diversity means you can spend a blissful week sparklings to Crianzas, Reservas, Gran or two winding your way along one of the Reservas and single-vineyard wines, visit scenic and cultural routes that lead through buyrioja.com for stockists the three zones – Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa

Clockwise from opposite page: beautiful landscapes; Bodegas Ysios; a selection of the region’s rosés; Hotel Marqués de Riscal; wine tasting; a scenic stroll through the vines

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PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF CHANEL; GETTY IMAGES STYLE FILE FASHION-FORWARD NOTES FOR ALL SEASONS. EDITED BY FLORRIE THOMAS A STOMP AROUND THE HIGHLANDS The trend for all things “gorpcore” – functional fashion, derived from the American slang for trail mix (“good ol’ raisin and peanuts”) – hasn’t passed designers by this season. While plenty embraced escapism on the autumn/ winter catwalks – body-positive silhouettes in barely there fabrics worthy of wafting through a post-pandemic world – there was a veritable stomp of outdoorsy boots, with brands putting their own spin on the classic hiking and combat styles. Witness Dior’s sci-fi-infused moto boots (with matching elbow-length leather gloves), Chloé’s woven sneaker-hiking hybrids and Roksanda’s collaboration with Fila, which teamed oversized moon boots with exuberant gowns. But it was Chanel’s homage to the humble wellie that stole the show. In classic moss green and black, emblazoned with that crisp double C, they demonstrate the maison’s enduring ability to make us covet even the simplest sartorial staple. Paired with thick-knit tights and a tweed suit, it’s a look of which Her Majesty would surely approve. FT Rubber boots, £850, Chanel (chanel.com) September 2022 Condé Nast Traveller 67

STYLE FILE PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF CHANEL; CRAIG FORDHAM; INEZ AND VINOODH HOW SCOTTISH TWEED IS STILL STITCHED INTO THE STORY OF CHANEL Aesthetically, the rugged Highlands couldn’t seem further from Paris’s 19th arrondissement, but when the models at Chanel’s autumn/ winter 2022 ready-to-wear show glided down the catwalk in a range of tweeds, they were reaffirming the brand’s long-standing connection with Scotland and its famous fabric. “Devoting the entire collection to tweed is a tribute,” says Virginie Viard, Chanel’s current creative director. Gabrielle Chanel’s love affair with the fabric began in the 1920s during her romance with the Duke of Westminster. While strolling in her paramour’s two Highlands estates – around Stack Lodge and Lochmore in the far reaches of Sutherland – the designer enjoyed borrowing the duke’s carded-wool jackets. She became the first to adapt the textile – traditionally for men only – to womenswear. The term tweed derives from the Scots word tweel (meaning “twilled cloth”) and probably refers to the River Tweed that runs between England and Scotland. Inspired by the leaves, moss and earth seen on walks in the Scottish countryside, Chanel wove red and violet threads into her fabric to awaken its earthy tones, then took the bulk out of it: “It was me who taught the Scottish how to make lighter tweeds,” she once boasted. The Scots manufactured the textile for her until the 1930s, before production switched to France (now at Maison Lesage), where, two decades later, the classic tweed suit was born, combining elegance with a rusticity that still shines in the recent collection. “We walked in the footsteps of Gabrielle Chanel along the River Tweed to imagine tweeds in the colours of this landscape,” says Viard – confirmation that the brand will be forever interwoven with Scotland. NOO SARO-WIWA Clockwise from far left: looks from Chanel A/W 2022; making a Chanel tweed at Lesage; River Tweed; Gabrielle Chanel in Scotland; Chanel A/W 2022; Scottish landscape

RENAULT CAPTUR E-TECH HYBRID the official combined fuel consumption figures in mpg (l/100km) for Captur E-Tech hybrid techno 145 are: 57.7 (4.9) and CO2 emissions are 109g/km wltp figures shown are for comparability purposes. actual real world driving results may vary depending on factors including the starting charge of the battery, accessories fitted after registration, weather conditions, driving styles and vehicle load. visit renault.co.uk. uk spec may vary. Renault recommends renault.co.uk

STYLE FILE Clockwise from this picture: gin tower at Atlas Bar; Crane Living display; distilling materials at Brass Lion; Singapore shopfronts; vinyls at Appetite; Design Orchard; bags at Le Salon by Ling

SHOPPING IN SINGAPORE THE CITY MAY BE KNOWN FOR SHINY SHOPPING MALLS, BUT HIDDEN AMONG THEM ARE QUIRKY HOMEGROWN FINDS, FROM BOOKBINDERS TO GIN DISTILLERS, THAT ADD LOCAL FLAIR. BY SHAMILEE VELLU PHOTOGRAPHS BY CHRIS SCHALKX

Clockwise from left: Dearborn granola store; Culina Market; gold at Le Salon by Ling; Brass Lion; ferments at Appetite; Sojao display; Brass Lion; homeware at Crane Living; Marko Yeo and Tawan Conchonnet of furniture store Noden

STYLE FILE FOODIE HAUNTS FURNITURE AND FASHION Two’s small-batch essential oils, natural unisex fragrances from Scent Journer and Housed in a former colonial barracks in Pushing past the nondescript black door of single-estate blends from The Tea Story. leafy Dempsey, Culina Market is a cool white- Le Salon by Ling, in laidback Chip Bee supermamastore.com; crane-living.com washed temple to single-variety Provençale Gardens, feels like stumbling into a hyper- olive oils, sea-urchin caviar and Icelandic curated apartment. Founder Goh Ling Ling’s A WORLD OF BOOKS salt-fermented fish sauce. The market, vintage-loving aesthetic is seen in pieces such owned by COMO Group, also includes an as a Fifties Danish sofa and starburst clock she Located in Tiong Bahru, one of Singapore’s in-house butchery, a deli, bakery, florist and snagged for a few dollars at Melbourne’s oldest housing estates and now an enclave formidable selection of fine French wine, Camberwell Market. Equally timeless are the with an alternative edge, Woods in the Books along with kitchen accessories such as accessory designer’s butter-soft Bubble clutches is a defiantly independent shop which special- Aritsugu knives and serving-ware by Ann and handwoven rattan Oscar bags, a limited ises in picture books and other illustrated Demeulemeester-Serax. The bistro is a great collaboration with social enterprise Handep. titles. Enter through its whimsically charming place to sample the produce. storefront (decorated by co-founder and illus- Founded by former drama lecturer Oniatta trator Mike Foo) to a hushed storybook-filled Food, music and art intersect at Appetite, Effendi, clothing line Baju by Oniatta is Narnia filled with neat stacks of classic and a multi-concept dining space on Amoy Street. housed in Galeri Tokokita, a cosy, wood- modern tales, along with a superb curation of Founded by The Fat Duck alum Ivan Brehm floored unit filled with modern and homegrown stories to clue little ones into all (who helms Michelin-starred Nouri down- collectible batik fabrics from Indonesia. Over things Singaporean. woodsinthebooks.sg stairs), it serves cross-cultural dishes in an cups of chai, the knowledgeable Effendi apartment-like venue, which encourages guests guides visitors through the significance of ONE-OF-A-KIND GIFTS to move between an intimate dining area, various motifs. Highlights include very a listening lounge with 3,000-plus vinyls and wearable pre-tied sarongs and Japanese A modern incarnation of an 80-year-old an art gallery that recently hosted the city’s haori-inspired batik cycling shirts. family bookbinding business, Bynd Artisan is first Robert Mapplethorpe solo show. known for its highly covetable leather and More than 100 local brands – from fashion paper gifts, most of which can be personalised Barely a year old, Dearborn was a pandemic and accessories to beauty and home decor – on the spot at its industrial-chic flagship in pivot by San Francisco-born, Singapore-based are represented in Design Orchard on Holland Village. The spacious store also stocks fine-dining chef Christopher Kong. His granola Singapore’s most famous shopping street. accessories including phone slings and hand- store, which is located in quiet Everton Park This artful mix of established and emerging sanitiser holders, alongside collaborations (also home to the famous glutinous rice talent spans genres and styles – from swirly with local makers such as a set of white-glazed snack purveyor Ji Xiang Ang Ku Kueh), stocks eco-friendly jesmonite trays by Chokmah to ceramic and leather homeware by the Dwell more than 25 versions of the cereal, with best- modular silver jewellery from Carrie K and collection. byndartisan.com sellers including Dark Chocolate, Hazelnut loungewear by Nost. and Sea Salt and Strawberry Macadamia. BED AND BEAUTY culina.com.sg; appetitesg.com; dearborn.sg In an unremarkable industrial estate, Noden is a secret treasure trove of vintage FOR A HIT OF WELLNESS DIY DRINKS Scandinavian furniture, with restored pieces from designers such as Hans J Wegner and Kai Hidden on Cluny Court’s rooftop is Kew Singapore’s first fully fledged micro-distillery, Kristiansen. lesalonbyling.com; galeritokokita. Organics, a paraben- and preservative- Brass Lion, pays homage to the city’s reputa- com; designorchard.sg; nodenhome.com tion as a 19th-century trading hub with its free skincare line created by founder Singapore Dry Gin, which includes 22 Asian DESIGN SMARTS Lily Kew to combat her persistent skin botanicals such as chrysanthemum, torch ginger flower and pomelo. The zesty, floral With its flagship in the airy, historic environs issues. Framed by views of swaying spirit is best enjoyed in the black-and-white of the National Museum, Supermama is bamboo, it’s a tranquil space in which tasting room; it also serves cocktails with a lifestyle brand offering items made by master to enjoy an express facial or a gentle spiced Pahit Pink Gin and Butterfly Pea Gin, craftsmen that are infused with a uniquely exfoliation at the Sugar K Organic Peel which is blended with local butterfly pea Singaporean sensibility. Its bestseller is Bar, which uses glycolic acid derived flowers and morphs from a deep blue to indigo the Singapore Blue range – blue-and-white when tonic or citrus is added. In the R&D lab porcelain that alludes to the city’s trading from sugar cane. keworganics.com visitors can distill their own gin and take it history but updated with modern, occasion- home in personalised bottles. ally tongue-in-cheek imagery. Known for its super-soft, non-GMO, organic-cotton sheets, Sojao Mother’s ruin is also central to Atlas Bar, The retail arm of sustainably minded social a cathedral-like Art Deco space in the community Crane, Crane Living’s brand of offers major chill-out vibes at its Bugis neighbourhood, with a three-storey gin affordable luxury delights card-carrying calming sanctuary in Joo Chiat. tower holding more than 1,300 labels. There millennials who aspire to recreate elements of Luxurious bedding, sleek loungewear, are serious collections of wine, Champagne the club at home, from colourful hand-twisted Home Goods Store candles and and whisky, too. brassliondistillery.com; candles to on-trend enamel spatterware colourful tiled planters enhance the atlasbar.sg and chubby-handled ceramic cups. It also spotlights local brands such as Sonder and feelgood factor. sojao.shop September 2022 Condé Nast Traveller 73

STYLE FILE GREECEP O S T C A R D F R O M FOR LORENZO SERAFINI, THE CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF ITALIAN BRAND PHILOSOPHY, THE FRESH SEAFOOD, WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST WHICH ARE YOUR FAVOURITE AND A STANDOUT RESTAURANT? IMPRESSION? ISLANDS? “I adore Greek food, especially grilled octopus, “I first travelled here when I was 19 and had “For a spring weekend, it’s hard to beat courgette balls and the classic pita bread. In just finished high school. Island-hopping in Mykonos. If I can rouse myself from the Sifnos, Omega 3 on Platis Gialos beach serves Greece is a rite of passage for Italian kids hammocks and pools at the clean-lined the freshest fish in wooden cabanas right Nomad Mykonos, I’ll be at the Kalo Livadi on the beach. I also love dining under the when they graduate. On my first visit, I beach club, with its turquoise water and a lemon tree at The Secret Garden in Symi, and remember taking a night ferry from Athens to restaurant where the seafood comes fresh Il Casta in Hydra for the atmosphere in a Mykonos and being greeted by a pink sunrise secluded courtyard.” over the dark blue sea, and the bright white from the Aegean. If I want diving, it’s houses of the village. We took pictures by the hard to beat the wrecks around Amorgos; for CAN YOU SHARE YOUR FAVOURITE FOOD MEMORY? mills, drove scooters in the breeze, walked peace and relaxation, I adore chic barefoot among the tiny streets and spent Folegandros and wilder Alonissos.” “I’ll always remember dinner at the Etrusco long nights drinking ouzo, lost in seemingly restaurant in Corfu, which is owned by boundless discussions about our future.” DO YOU HAVE A GO-TO HOTEL? Greek-Italian chef Ettore Botrini, who is also a HOW HAS YOUR RELATIONSHIP WITH “My most recent discovery is Mèlisses in TV star in Greece. I can still picture eating the GREECE EVOLVED? Andros. It’s a small, effortlessly chic Corfu bourdeto, a spicy fish dish, right on “After that trip, I came back to Greece guesthouse run by Allegra Pomilio, an Italian the water. It’s also hard to beat traditional several times. As I got older I opted for who graduated from the Alain Ducasse tavernas, where the food is rustic and tasty.” different islands, including Patmos, Sifnos and Academy and worked with French food Amorgos, but also tiny unknown gems such WHERE DO YOU GO FOR DRINKS? as Fourni. Now, I’m more attracted to blogger Mimi Thorisson. She’s heavily into secluded and untouched islands where Hellenic culture and tradition, and mixes “In Hydra, I enjoy the Hydronetta beach bar, those influences with her impeccable Italian while in Sifnos the Kamarotí Suites Hotel life is slow.” taste. You can see the island of Ghiaros from serves the most delicious gin and tonic with the salt-water pools.” 74 Condé Nast Traveller September 2022

HIDDEN BEACHES AND LOCALLY MADE TEXTILES KEEP DRAWING HIM BACK TO ISLAND-HOP THE AEGEAN PHOTOGRAPHS: CHRISTOS DRAZOS; LUCY LAUCHT; LUCA ORSI rosemary. I also like to sit in one of the bars THE BEST PLACE FOR A HIT OF main street of the village. I’ll also stop by along the picturesque port in Symi drinking a CULTURE? jeweller Elena Votsi’s boutique – it was traditional iced coffee. My favourite place for opened nearly 30 years ago on the waterfront nightlife is Antiparos. After dinner at Captain “I always recommend the Monastery of in Hydra – to see her bold pieces using Pipinos, everybody dances at the stylish-but- Panagia Hozoviotissa in Amorgos, the second minimalist Tabula Rasa or heads for La Luna, local gemstones.” oldest monastery in Greece. Built into the an old club with a bohemian vibe.” face of a cliff, it has breathtaking views of WHICH IS THE MOST BEAUTIFUL BEACH IN THE REGION? WHICH ACTIVITIES ARE A MUST-TRY? the sparkling blue Aegean Sea.” “It has to be Erimitis in Paxos. You have to walk “If you are in Sifnos with friends, I highly YOUR FAVOURITE HANGOUT FOR down a steep path to a white pebbled beach recommend renting a caicco with a captain for SUNDOWNERS? surrounded by cliffs, but it’s worth the effort. a day-long boat trip to discover the caves and It’s just stunning – I love bringing drinks down “Maybe not in August, when the island is and enjoying the sunset here.” volcanic rocks on the uninhabited island of really crowded, but the Scorpios beach club Poliegos. Greece has great spots for diving and HOW HAVE THE GREEK ISLANDS in Mykonos is one of the best places for INSPIRED YOUR WORK? I never tire of snorkelling with sea turtles sunset in Greece. At golden hour it is magic.” and octopuses off Zakynthos.” “The brand’s light-hearted aesthetic resonates ANY PRODUCTS YOU RECOMMEND with the island vibe. And every season the NAME A TOP BEAUTY SPOT TAKING HOME? memories of chilled, free-spirited summers have helped to boost my mood during the “I’m particularly drawn to Sarakiniko beach in “In Sifnos, I am a big fan of the white cotton preparation for the September shows.” Milos for its lunar landscape and unique beach towels with green and yellow stripes, philosophyofficial.com combination of whitewashed rock formations while in Antiparos you can find great and vibrant turquoise waters.” embroidered tablecloths made by local women and sold in little shops along the From far left: Sarakiniko beach, Milos; Lorenzo Serafini; seafood at Omega 3 restaurant, Sifnos; bedroom at Nomad Mykonos

STYLE FILE BEST FOR SENSITIVE STOMACHS Formulated by an inimitable board of experts, from gut-health specialists to molecular biologists, Seed contains an impressive 24 strains of clinically researched probiotic. The outer capsule is a gut-strengthening prebiotic (made from the antioxidants in Indian pomegranate) and the packaging is refillable, recyclable and biodegradable. There’s even a free mini travel bottle. £39 a month (seed.com) BEST FOR JET LAG A double Americano might be tempting to ward off tiredness, but there could be an even better fix. Four Sigmatic’s formula has half the caffeine of a regular coffee and is infused with antioxidant-rich mega mushrooms such as lion’s mane to help lower anxiety, plus chaga to help regulate blood sugar and boost immunity. The instant Coffee Latte Mix sachets are made from coconut-milk powder, so they’re suitable for travel, and give an energy kick minus the jitters. £19.99 (planetorganic.com) EXTRA EXTRA THE SUPPLEMENTS TO KNOW ABOUT. BY ANITA BHAGWANDAS BEST FOR A BOOST BEST FOR FOCUS A sweet treat that’s good for you is Is brain fog your daily nemesis? always a win: each Beauty Bite Heights could be a new saviour. BEST FOR A RESET contains 3800mg of (non-vegan) Crafted with neuroscientists and PHOTOGRAPH: MARGUERITE BORNHAUSER The goal of this super pill is to slow down the collagen peptides that could dieticians, it delivers 20 key overall aging process to prevent future illness. Formulated by clinical pharmacologist Dr Paul help to improve the quality of skin, nutrients proven to aid cognitive Clayton, an expert in degenerative diseases, Lyma uses evidence-based ingredients such as hair and nails. They also contain function and brain health in one bone-strengthening vitamin K at the highest less than 3g of sugar, so you’ll pill (Stephen Fry is reportedly a grade to target sleep, performance, focus, beauty, mood and stress levels. For an all-round avoid the rush, and include gut- fan). Fat-soluble vitamins in the body reset, the 30-day starter kit is the friendly probiotics, plus vitamins Smart Supplement make for refillable, chic choice. £199 (lyma.life) C and E. The science jury is still faster absorption and the blend 76 Condé Nast Traveller September 2022 out on the efficacy of collagen, but contains memory-boosting B12 this is a tasty way to give it a try. and omega 3s to optimise the £14.99 for pack of seven communication between brain cells. (krumbledfoods.co.uk) £40 a month (yourheights.com)

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From above: Dior From top: Eclosion de Grand Bal Chaumet watch in Supernatural white gold, diamonds, No 20 in pink gold, lacquer, sapphire and diamonds and mother-of-pearl, opal, POA, Dior £45,300, Chaumet Watches (dior.com). Lady Arpels Heures (chaumet.com). Florales in diamonds, Milgauss 40mm in mother-of-pearl and Oystersteel, £7,350, miniature painting, Rolex (rolex.com). POA, Van Cleef & Coussin de Cartier in Arpels (vancleef yellow gold, diamonds, arpels.com) tsavorites and tourmalines, £50,500, TO BOLDLY GO… Cartier (cartier.co.uk) NATURE’S COLOUR CLASH IS NOW ON WATCHES. BY JESSICA DIAMOND PHOTOGRAPHS: FUJIO EMURA; TOM PUTT When it comes to watches, green and blue have been the colours of choice for the past couple of years. Braver than brown, less severe than black, these two shades have served those looking for something a bit different. Now a new trend has emerged with a mix of the two, splashed and decorated across dials. In jewellery, it’s long been a common palette – sapphires, emeralds and a slick of onyx or black enamel is one of the trademarks of Art Deco. Of course, they’re a reflection of nature’s two most prominent hues and sit comfortably together – mirroring water, sky and vegetation. Van Cleef and Arpels uses the shades in its new Lady Arpels Heures Florales timepiece, with the number of hours indicated by the number of open flowers on the dial in a highly complex mechanism that nods more to automatons than watches. Chaumet goes graphic with a stylised depiction of a ranunculus bloom in iridescent tones of hand-painted green and blue. Dior borrows from nature with a black opal that shimmers both turquoise and petrol blue. Meanwhile, Cartier debuts a new case shape, the Coussin, in which tourmalines and emeralds are inversely set in a swirl across the bezel. As all the big maisons are embracing this combination, the mix of colours is no flash in the pan. It might even be the beginning of a new classic. 78 Condé Nast Traveller September 2022

STYLE FILE From above: Lemon BREW HA HA Myrtle earrings in demantoid garnets, HIGH JEWELLERY TAKES A LEAF FROM HERBAL TEA diamonds, aluminium, bronze and white Received wisdom says that the most elevated jewels come from the workshops of Paris. gold. Ginger Flower And while this is true in the main, there are hotspots around the world where extraordi- earrings in diamonds, nary crafts unfurl. One such hub is the workshop of Munich-based jeweller Hemmerle, a aluminium, bronze and 129-year-old outfit that started life as a medal-maker. Here, the pace of production is white gold. All pieces, slow; there are no deadlines or rushed orders. Pieces simply emerge from the well-hidden POA, Hemmerle atelier when they’re perfect, and the results are often spellbinding. Infused Jewels is the (hemmerle.com) latest offering – more than four years in the making and as considered and unhurried as its source of inspiration: herbal tea. From this surprising muse a collection of three From top: brooches and 10 pairs of earrings is rendered in gemstones, precious metals, coloured Verbena earrings in diamonds, alumini- aluminium and, for the first time, porcelain. The latter is used in a delicate orange- um and white gold. blossom brooch; ginger flowers form a cascading pair of earrings in bronze, white gold, Rose brooch in diamonds and aluminium, with the ends of each flower coloured blush pink. The tips diamonds, alumini- of a lemon-balm plant are fashioned to be painstakingly lifelike, while more um and white gold graphic lavender earrings open at the back so they can be filled with dried petals, like miniature pomanders. This collection doesn’t stop at jewels. Hemmerle has commissioned an accompanying set of immersive illustrations, with a fairy-tale-esque short story, a porcelain tea caddy and a herbal blend. It’s a testament that good things come to those who wait. JD From below left: From above: Cinnamon brooch Rosemary earrings in diamond, natural cinnamon sticks, in tanzanites, bronze and white bronze and white gold. Lemon gold. Orange Blossom brooch in Balm earrings in tsavorites, natural pearls, demantoid garnets, aluminium and bisque porcelain, white gold bronze and white gold

MAKING WAVES Healthy, delicious and sustainable, wild Alaska seafood is as good to the planet as it is on the plate Alaska is a place of almost waters. An all-natural diet, low levels of vessel represents a small, often family-run unbelievable beauty. pollution, and the speed at which the catch business, taking to the waters to continue Beneath the otherworldly is frozen (within hours of being pulled from a trade practised here for generations. glimmer of the aurora the depths, often before the boat even arrives borealis, vast glaciers drift back at shore) give the fish its incredible But as much as sustainability matters, the in waters that seem to freshness and flavour. proof of the pudding (or the pollock) is in the glow with a blue light and dizzying mountain tasting. Firm and flavourful Alaska seafood peaks rise high above temperate forests. But For many of us, the environmental impact is a versatile addition that can make any you don’t have to journey to the far north of our diet is one of the deciding factors when mealtime just that little bit better, whether to experience the state’s incredible natural choosing what to put on our plates, and wild it’s a quick curry made with cod or a lavish wonders for yourself – all you have to do is Alaska seafood makes eco-friendly eating supper party where king crab and smoked head to the supermarket, where wild Alaska simple. Sustainability is far from a buzzword wild salmon take centre stage. Plus, as a seafood hauled straight from the chill North in the Alaskan fishing industry – it’s been nutritious lean protein bursting with omega-3 Pacific water is there to be discovered. a guiding principle from the very beginning. and with no artificial colouring, preservatives The idea of sustainable yield (preventing or pesticides, wild Alaska seafood isn’t just Along 34,000 miles of pristine coastline, overfishing to allow the seas to replenish) has a delicious dish – it’s a healthy one, too. fishing boats set sail to discover the treasure been written into the constitution since Alaska Alaska has many delights, but this may just beneath the waves. Five di erent types of became a state in 1959, and today’s abundant be the best – and certainly the easiest to enjoy salmon from sockeye to coho, numerous waters are testament to its success. And it’s without setting out on a voyage of your own. whitefish including pollock, black cod and not just the ecosystem that benefits, it’s the halibut as well as crustaceans such as king local communities as well – the industry is Further Information crabs all roam wild in these clean, clear the state’s main employer and each fishing Visit wildalaskaseafood.co.uk

ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE ALONG THE PRISTINE COASTLINE, FISHING BOATS SET SAIL TO DISCOVER THE TREASURE BENEATH THE OCEAN

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PHOTOGRAPH: MATTIA AQUILA TRENDWATCH INTREPID DIRECTIONS IN WORLDWIDE CULTURE The Food Special ROLL UP, ROLL UP ELEVATED TRAIN DINING IS GATHERING PACE “Real cooking. Fun. Cool. Magic.” Not words you would normally associate with the food served on trains. The speaker was mega-chef Jean Imbert. The setting a velvet-upholstered dining car of the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express. The occasion a journey from Reims to Venice, hosted by Veuve Clicquot to mark the maison’s 250th birthday. Imbert, the legendary train’s new head chef, took care of the food; Veuve Clicquot the Champagne. The connection was a meaningful one – Veuve Clicquot exported its first consignment from Reims to a Venetian palazzo in 1772. Indirectly, the trip also highlighted another journey, that of train food generally. From bento boxes with salted cherry blossoms on Japanese bullet trains to beet pancakes on the Czech national railway, so much of it is evolving beyond sandwiches and crisps. In Australia, two of the world’s greatest long-distance rail journeys, the Indian-Pacific and The Ghan, are admired as much for their cuisine as their epic routes. Nearly three decades since the first Eurostar rolled out of London Waterloo, the company’s partnership with Raymond Blanc continues to collect prizes for its locally sourced ingredients. But the Orient-Express remains in a class of its own, and Imbert is a respectful custodian of the old ways. His eyes lit up as he described a 19th-century recipe he had tinkered with for the volaille albuféra. It was exceptional – “real cooking”. The fact it was washed down with vintage Veuve Clicquot – well, let’s just say “fun”, “cool” and “magic” all apply. STEVE KING September 2022 Condé Nast Traveller 83



FOR THE LONG HAUL A REVOLUTION IS UNDERWAY IN DEVON, WHERE ITS VISIONARY FOOD AND FISHING COMMUNITIES ARE POWERING TOWARDS A SUSTAINABLE FUTURE BY TOM PARKER BOWLES. PHOTOGRAPHS BY TOM PARKER

It’s a beauty, no doubt about that – a whole John Dory, six and a find in Spain and Portugal) and the Rockfish online fishmonger. “With half pounds of pure piscine perfection, borne triumphantly to the table, all this post-Covid, global unrest, this looming food crisis, there’s an and received with an awed reverence that is only fitting for such a opportunity to change how people think,” he says, as we settle into a magnificent beast. Obscenely, incandescently fresh – having been glass of Somerset Cider Brandy. “There’s no such thing as a cheap fish. bought from Brixham market just a few hours before – the skin, blis- Retailers want cheap salmon and chicken. You just can’t do that. We tered and blackened by the heat of the Josper oven, is split to show a must value food more. This is not about making money. It’s about pristine white below. Our forks tremble with greedy anticipation. making a difference.” Deftly filleted and anointed with olive oil and lemon, the flesh is Just before eight the next morning, we’re sitting on Mitch’s RIB. Our winsomely sweet, as subtle and delicate as a mermaid’s sigh. It’s as fine hangovers are quickly blown away on this most glorious of May days; a fish as you will eat anywhere on Earth; English seafood at its very the sky a deep azure, the sun flickering off the waves. There’s a clarity best, where sublime local produce meets the most talented of cooks. of light down here, a purity that dazzles. As we pass soft green fields Here at The Seahorse in Dartmouth, that’s Ben Tonks, the head chef and rocky inlets, deserted beaches and contented cows, he explains that and son of the restaurant’s co-owner Mitch Tonks, the chef, food while the nearby towns of Paignton and Torquay were once very grand writer and all-round fish guru. Here, among the lush, softly rolling hills and well-to-do, Brixham was rather less exalted. Yet it’s here, where of the South Hams of Devon, a quiet revolution is taking place. “I want multicoloured houses seem to tumble down the hills towards the to change the way Britain buys fish,” Mitch explains between mouth- harbour, that you’ll find England’s biggest commercial fish market. fuls. “Fresh, sustainable and totally traceable. And from boat to table in a matter of hours.” As we approach, he spots a small boat with what seems like a trail of baskets dangling behind it. “Ah,” says Mitch, drawing close and I’ve known Mitch for years – travelled across the globe with him, turning off the engine. “It’s Sarah and Darren. We buy our lobsters spent many a late night eating, drinking and carousing. We’ve cooked from them. They make their pots from willow, in the old-fashioned dinner for 300 in Ibiza (its success entirely down to him), traipsed across way.” Sarah and Darren Ready have been together for 32 years, and the Arctic Circle in search of cod and shared more early-morning Darren, now 54, has been fishing since he was 14. They both have that brandy-laced coffees than my liver cares to remember. But friendship well-weathered look and no-nonsense air that characterises fisherfolk has never blurred my respect for his passion, knowledge and dedica- the world over. Sarah’s also a lawyer, providing pro bono help and tion. Along with his partner, the equally talented Mat Prowse, he’s the advice for the under-10-metre fleet, through the New Under Ten seafood pioneer behind The Seahorse, as well as nine Rockfish coastal Fishermen’s Association. The Brixham fishing community is a close restaurants, a tinned fish company (every bit as good as anything you’ll one, and the future of fishing obviously affects them all. 86

Clockwise from left: welcome to The Crab Shell; cows in Dartmouth; staff, and dish of ray at The Seahorse. Opposite, from left: Royal Castle hotel; order board at Anchorstone Café. Previous pages, clockwise from top left: South Milton Sands; Salcombe house; feast at Crab Shed; inside The Seahorse; lobster fishing in Brixham; Beachhouse, South Milton Sands; Salcombe Lifeboat Museum

THE SKY IS A DEEP AZURE, THE SUN FLICKERING OFF THE WAVES.

THERE’S A CLARITY OF LIGHT DOWN HERE, A PURITY THAT DAZZLES



Clockwise from far left: Mitch Tonks at Rockfish, Brixham; a Dartmouth visitor, and view of the town from the River Dart; Brixham catch; tapas at The Wine Loft; a windowsill in Brixham. Previous pages, an elevated view of Salcombe “I make my own pots from withy (willow) bought from Musgrove Willow in Somerset,” she tells me. Unlike their plastic brethren, these are natural and biodegradable; they look like inverted wicker bowls, with a hole at the top for the lobster to enter, with little chance of escape. “The many, many small-scale artisan fishermen that I know all fish sustainably. Throwing back juvenile fish, like lemon sole, even when there is no size limit. We very much look after our patch of sea, with many fishermen fishing the same grounds year after year. It is important to ensure that there is a fishery into the future.” With that, both boats start up again, and we putter slowly into Brixham’s natural harbour, past the World War II coastal defence battery, the children fishing for crab from the harbour walls and a few dayboats, sat safely in dock after returning the night before. Brixham Fish Market, situated in low, long buildings a sardine’s toss from the harbour, is all but deserted. The auction, which takes place every Monday to Friday, starts at 6am. It’s now well past nine. The auction is a descending one, rather than the usual format that starts low and goes high. “The online clock means that it opens up the auction, “I BELIEVE IN FEWER BOATS, AND MORE PASSION. THE FISHERY WORKS HERE AS IT’S ALL ABOUT HIGH VALUE, NOT VOLUME” and Brixham market, to a much broader international audience,” says Josh Perks, scion of an illustrious local fishing dynasty, who now runs the buying for Rockfish. “Our advantage is that we can still see exactly what we buy, as we’re next door to the auction.” The dayboats usually start around 4 or 5am, and are back in port by 7am. The fish is then graded overnight, ready for the auction’s start. “Eighty per cent of the fish here is sold to Europe,” says Mitch as we wander around the Rockfish processing site at the market. It’s spank- ingly clean, with boxes filled with live lobster, scallops and crabs, as well as neatly filleted Dover and lemon sole, T-bones of plaice, bass, brill, coley, monkfish, turbot and ling. As we move from the filleting area to the odourless packing section next door, Mitch explains that more than 45 species are landed here a day, worth around £40 million per annum. “I believe in fewer boats, and more passion,” he says. “I hate the way British fishermen become demonised. The fishery works here as it’s all about high value, not volume.” Mike Sharp is another Brixham fisherman, who’s been in the game for 42 years. He has three multipurpose beam trawl vessels, which target cuttlefish from October to April, and mixed fisheries during the summer months, mainly Dover sole, plaice and monkfish, although he catches more than 30 other species. He tells me how things have changed over the years, as 54 beam trawlers have reduced to 15 to match quotas. “Sustainability lies at the feet of the fisherman,” he explains, “and we’re very well policed, with Navy checks at sea and projects like 50/50, to develop better nets to reduce discards.” The biggest problems lie less with the Brixham fishing fleet than EU boats that often fish in the same waters; and UK-registered boats that might be Dutch- or Spanish-owned, which land their catches abroad. 91

Clockwise from this picture: on the terrace, and lunch at Rockfish; artisan tinned fish at The Wine Loft; view of the River Dart from Anchorstone Café

Vast international supertrawlers can be environmentally ruinous, with TOM’S PICKS FOR DEVON SEAFOOD their scorched-earth approach to catching everything in their path, while burning huge amounts of fuel, with rising fuel costs meaning less ROCKFISH, BRIXHAM profits for fishermen. Part of the issue is “Brexit, bloody Brexit,” as The flagship of this mini group, Rockfish is The Seahorse’s younger Sharp growls. “We were promised everything, and fishing was right at sibling, and all about well-priced, sustainable fish. Expect proper fish the front. But they didn’t deliver. Hopefully, after the transition period and chips, fish of the day and grilled lobster. From the huge terrace, someone will grow a pair and kick the EU out of the six-12 mile limit you can watch the Rockfish dayboat motor in and out of the harbour. and put a stop to industrial fishing. Put the same rules in for them and police it properly instead of landing back into the EU unchecked.” About £60 for two; therockfish.co.uk When it comes to the perception of commercial fishing, another THE WINE LOFT, BRIXHAM problem is that it’s a deeply complex business. There are no blacks and Ok, so there’s no fresh fish here. But you can find around 40 varieties whites, merely endless shades of grey. Take scallops. I always believed that hand-caught was the only option, and dredging the seabed was a of beautiful Spanish, Portuguese and British tinned fish, along with marine catastrophe. But as Mitch points out: “A hand-dived scallop is more than 300 wines, to drink in or take away. Don’t miss the sardines a great product. But if we relied only on those, there simply wouldn’t be enough to satisfy demand. And because diving is more efficient, you Gueyumar, along with the smoked mackerel and anchovies from can harvest the big ones, the more valuable brood stock, doing more Nardin. About £40 for two; wineloftbrixham.co.uk damage than a trawler. It can be very tempting just to grab them all, and leave nothing behind for next year.” SHOALS BRIXHAM Overlooking the Lido and Brixham Bay, Shoals was set up in 2014 The Rockfish philosophy is all about thinking ahead.“We’re the only fishmongers in the country that not only has its own dayboats, but pro- by Sean and Sarah Perkes; his family are fifth-generation fish cessing site too. Buying direct is the future. I don’t want to do down merchants. Once again, this is about spanking fresh fish bought off local boats, simply cooked and served alongside wines from Brixham’s THAT JOHN DORY? PERKS TAPS Wine Loft. Take your swimmers and you can bathe straight off the INTO HIS COMPUTER. “CAUGHT rocks. About £60 for two; shoalsbrixham.co.uk ON THE MALLAGAR, ON THE RISING TIDE, OFF START BAY” THE SEAHORSE, DARTMOUTH For me, not just Britain’s best restaurant, but one of my favourite other fishmongers at all, and there are many great ones, but there is restaurants in the world. A hugely talented if miniscule kitchen, waste involved when fish is bought and not sold. Here you buy direct. headed up by Ben Tonks, this is all about the best Devon seafood, And anything that’s not sold on the day is flash frozen.” There’s a QR treated with skill and respect. Whole, Josper-cooked fish and lobsters code on each fish, which tells the buyer the boat it was caught on, as along with stews, pasta, soups and all manner of piscine brilliance. well as giving specific cooking tips. I ask about that marvellous John Dory we ate the night before. Perks taps into his computer. Caught on There’s a cracking wine list, too. About £50 for two; The Mallagar. On the rising tide, just off Start Bay. “Not far from The seahorserestaurant.co.uk Seahorse, really.” By working with people such as the Readys, they’re supporting the pilot of an electric fishing boat.Any offcuts from Rockfish THE CRAB SHELL, DARTMOUTH are reused as bait for the pots. Judith Ewings has been making crab and seafood sandwiches at the small, but perfectly formed Crab Shell for 20 years. Just soft white “Buying local and considering where fish comes from is important bread, lots of fresh white crabmeat, pepper and a little vinegar. Simple, as a consumer,” says Sarah Ready, “together with how it has been caught and with what methods. The traceability of fish is vital for the industry and simply perfect. About £10 for two to ensure the product is not cheapened.” Sharp agrees. “Fish lovers will try anything but I can assure them there is no better fish and shellfish BEACHHOUSE, SOUTH MILTON SANDS in the world that those caught off the Devon coast, a place where you Smack bang in the middle of South Milton Sands beach, this elegant can walk on the moors then swim in the sea on the same day.” shack serves Salcombe crab sandwiches, local scallops and mussels, as well as steamed lobster and crab. Try to bag a table on the beach, “It’s all about community,” says Mitch, on the terrace at Rockfish in Brixham, as we devour a couple of the Readys’ lobsters, steamed with from where it’s the shortest of sandy strolls to the sea. garlic butter, alongside cuttlefish “calamari”. He’s talking about sup- About £40 for two; beachhousedevon.com plying fresh fish to the Chefs in Schools scheme, and teaching kids about “the beauty of fresh British fish”. The sun is high in the sky now, and ANCHORSTONE CAFE, DITTISHAM we’re well into a third bottle of rosé. Life feels very good indeed. Overlooking the River Dart, this place sells fresh, whole local crab and “People think fishing is just unthinking dragging of huge nets. But not here. These guys are skilled hunters, out for five days at a time.” He lobster, as well as fried and grilled fish, ice-cold rosé and great ice looks out, over the sea, now the deepest of blues. “God I love it here. cream. About £15 for two; anchorstonecafe.co.uk The fish, the boats, the people, the landscape, the climate. Best place on earth. There’s nowhere I’d rather be.” CRAB SHED, SALCOMBE Sitting right on the quay, where the fishermen land their crustaceans, this is a great little spot for a whole or cracked crab. It also does excellent grilled fish. About £70 for two; crabshed.com BRITANNIA AT THE BEACH, KINGSBRIDGE A mere mussel’s hurl from the sea, this restaurant is owned by crab fisherman Nick Hutchings and his wife Anita, who serve up his daily catch in sandwiches, salads and linguine. There’s also fish pie, local mussels and lobster, along with a decent wine list. About £50 for two; britanniaatthebeach.co.uk 93



LAYER UPON LAYER IN THE HIMALAYAN-EDGED REGION OF LADAKH, THE CUISINE IS INFUSED WITH MANY CULTURES. BY DIPPING INTO THIS DIVERSE MIX, A NEW GENERATION OF TASTEMAKERS IS PUTTING A FRESH SPIN ON TRADITION BY SMITHA MENON. PHOTOGRAPHS BY TOM PARKER



Everything revolves around the kitchen hearth, or “thap”, in Ladakh – even time. Many older Ladakhi homes have an opening through which the first rays of sunlight fall directly onto these earthen stoves, not only warming them before the cooking begins, but turning them into sundials. As day becomes night, the shafts of light shift, cinematically capturing the dance of smoke in the air, while the thap casts shadows that tell the time. In Nilza Wangmo’s kitchen, in the monastic mountain village of Alchi, it’s just past one o’clock and the light has moved off the centre of the thap. From between her flour-coated palms, long, silken strands of noodles fall softly into a bowl. “When I cook, I feel as if my mother is with me,” says the soft-spoken, bespectacled 43-year-old, as she watches over her all-women kitchen crew. It was her late mother who taught her to cook timsthuk, an earthy noodle soup brightened by Ladakhi peas, dried cheese and wild chives. Now, it is one of the star dishes at Alchi Kitchen, a rustic, wood-engraved restaurant – lined with traditional copper pots, filigreed plates and bright-red tables – that she set up above her home. Guests sit around the thap as Wangmo and her team turn out steamed momo dumplings and chutagi, a thick soup with local pasta and mountain vegetables. Wangmo is part of a humble modern movement to reclaim and shine a light on Ladakhi food – a cuisine as rich and complex as this northern corner of India. Until recently, Ladakh’s fragrant pulao dishes, stinging nettle soups and hearty stews rarely made it beyond the region’s ever- complicated mountainous borders – the Kashmir Valley to the west, Pakistan-administered Gilgit-Baltistan to the north and Chinese- controlled Tibet and Xinjiang to the east. Now, a new group of foodies is spreading the word. Wangmo has hosted pop-ups in New Delhi and Mumbai to showcase her beloved regional food; local brands such as Ladakh Basket and Nima Goos Goos are making indigenous ingredients including sea buckthorn and buckwheat accessible; while well-respected chefs such as Prateek Sadhu and Vanika Choudhary in Mumbai have started paying homage to the area through dining experiences and cookbooks. Ladakh’s proud yet patchwork culture includes the legacy of Buddhist pilgrims, Tibetan refugees, Islamic rulers, Sikh dynasts and Central Asian Silk Road traders.While much of the region feels Tibetan – its epic mountainscapes dotted with whitewashed chorten shrines and hilltop monasteries – Muslims make up a sizeable part of the population, in areas such as Hunder and Kargil. Today’s borders – often arbitrary lines that have brutally divided families and cultures – are disputed by the looming powers of India, Pakistan and China. As I find out during an eye-opening week here, food is a way to make sense of it all; a tangible symbol of identity, peaceful defiance and hope. In the regional capital of Leh, a place of prayer flags and bustling markets framed by ominous mountains, I meet many people using Ladakhi dishes as a tool for a cultural reckoning. These include Padma Yangchen and Jigmet Diskit, who run a revivalist fashion label that has shown at London Fashion Week; they started Namza Dining to celebrate local dishes such as Yarkandi pulao, a buttery rice dish of slow-cooked mutton, made with cumin brought over by From top right: Prince Stanzin Namgyal; bright interiors at Stok Palace. Opposite, clockwise from top left: the fortress-like palace; thukpa, suite and local feast by Artisanal Alchemy at Stok. Previous pages, Leh Palace, set on a hill overlooking the regional capital

Silk Road traders. And Pankaj Sharma, who left The Lodhi hotel in New Delhi and partnered with Ladakh hotelier Rigzin Namgyal to open Syah, an innovative farm-to-table restaurant where Scandi-style menus celebrate humble local ingredients such as apricot and barley. There is a particularly memorable meal beneath the elaborately painted wooden carvings in the dining room of the 200-year-old Stok Palace – a fortress-like castle on its own hill overlooking the city and now a heavily frescoed heritage hotel. Bending to enter through the low door (another sign of respect to the thap), I take in the gleaming, intricately carved ladles and pots that line the walls. Kunzes Angmo emerges from between billows of steam rising from bubbling cauldrons. The 37-year-old runs Artisanal Alchemy, a company that curates three- hour-long feasts she passionately describes as “my history on your plate”. Accompanying us is her cousin, Prince Stanzin Namgyal, whose Namgyal forebears ruled Ladakh between 1460 and 1842, building Stok Palace as their summer home in 1820 before their dynasty fell to the Sikh Empire. The table is laden with local specialities: zathuk, a version of Tibetan thukpa soup made with umami stinging nettles; khambir, a smoky sourdough that’s baked on an open fire; and drapu, o-shaped dumplings that sit in a pool of velvety apricot-kernel sauce. “Hunger is secular here,” says Angmo, who has spent years researching Ladakhi dishes EACH INGREDIENT IS THE SEED OF A STORY: YAK MEAT FROM THE CHINESE BORDER; APRICOTS FROM MUSLIM BALTISTAN and cooking techniques. “So much of our food history is passed down orally, so it’s been lost through the generations.” Each ingredient is the seed of a story about harsh landscapes and colliding cultures. We taste yak meat that’s been sun-dried by the nomads of Changthang to get them through merciless six-month winters on the Chinese border in the high east; stewed apricots from the sparkling green valleys of Sham, near Kashmir, but also from Baltistan, where Muslim farmers grow these juicy delights along with mulberries and peaches. There’s a tangible sense of all this food culture being co- opted into something fresh and new: by Angmo, but also the prince, who has returned from studying at the Cordon Bleu Institute to open Willow Café at the palace – a European bistro inspired by Ladakhi cooking practices. The mood at the table is optimistic, but also cautious. When Ladakh’s status shifted from a region in Jammu and Kashmir to a Union Territory directly under India’s central government in 2019, it opened up both the opportunities and the threats of tourism. “We don’t want this to become another Manali,” says Kunzes’ sister Tsezin Angmo, referring to the crowded hilltown in Himachal Pradesh, the region to the south of Ladakh, where backpackers and honeymooners jostle for a slice of Himalayan paradise. In the narrow streets of old Leh town, there is still a prevailing peacefulness, which I feel most From top left: Padma Yangchen and Jigmet Diskit of Namza Dining, and a Ladakhi dish from their menu. Opposite, clockwise from top: the sands of Nubra Valley; Kashmiri bakery in Leh; chutagi and stewed meat at Namza Dining 98