CosBeauty Magazine May 2022

significant published studies proving throughout the night. This means its efficacy; in particular, it is proven retinaldehyde is just as gentle on the to be 11 times faster acting than skin as retinol, but has effects similar traditional retinol.’ to prescription-strength retinoic acid. However, retinal is notoriously ‘The clever encapsulation system difficult to stabilise. That’s why you avoids any of the well-documented won’t find it in many other brands. Vitamin A side effects that can come But Medik8 has developed a delicate with stronger formulations, such as crystal-shaped encapsulation system flaking and redness,’ Isaacs explains. which breaks down on contact with ‘Customers who try this Crystal the skin to slowly feed it over time, Retinal seem to universally adore it; overcoming any stability struggle. This is it’s one of our bestsellers for a reason.’ the closest thing to prescription-strength retinoic acid – the biologically active Another advantage is that, unlike form on the skin – but you don’t need a many other forms of Vitamin A, prescription to get your hands on it. retinaldehyde has the added benefit of having direct antibacterial properties, The crystal encapsulation system making it an ideal anti-ageing enables the product to be time-released ingredient for blemish-prone skin. www.cosbeauty.com.au 49

SKIN BEFORE TO AFTER 11x FASTER Clinical-grade Vitamin A, otherwise known as retinoic acid, is a powerful skincare ingredient that triggers skin rejuvenation in order to effectively fight visible signs of ageing. But unlike retinol, which must first be converted to retinaldehyde and then to retinoic acid within the skin, Crystal Retinal only requires one conversion to retinoic acid. This means it can deliver results comparable to clinical-grade Vitamin A, up to 11x faster than classic forms of retinol. In a recent independent clinical study of 33 people using Crystal Retinal 6 over 12 weeks, the findings were: 20% clinically proven reduction in the appearance of wrinkles 11% clinically proven increase in skin’s firmness 20% clinically proven reduction in visible hyperpigmentation 100% of participants felt their skin looked brighter 97% felt their skin had a more youthful appearance LADDER UP: ALWAYS PEAK, NEVER PLATEAU Crystal Retinal is available in five different strengths, ranging from 0.01% up to 0.2%, with the latter only available after professional consultation. ‘We call it the ‘Everyone Vitamin A’, as it’s just that,’ says Isaacs. ‘If you’re in the market for a Vitamin A, Crystal Retinal is for you. We recommend starting at strength 3 and working upwards if you want to boost results. (We only recommend strength 1 to those who are very sensitive).

The next-gen Vitamin A SUPERIOR ABSORPTION Crystal Retinal has a patented time-release delivery system that encapsulates retinaldehyde in a crystal molecular vehicle that is broken down by the skin’s natural enzymes upon contact. This unique action controls the release of the active to ensure that the formula remains stable, absorption is optimised and the highly-potent formula is distributed evenly and constantly throughout the night. OPTIMUM HYDRATION Featuring multi-weight hyaluronic acid and Vitamin E, Crystal Retinal hydrates skin at every level while helping to strengthen the skin’s barrier to keep moisture locked in. VEGAN-FRIENDLY In addition to being kind to the skin, Crystal Retinal is also vegan friendly and cruelty-free. Dermatologically tested, it is free from parabens, phthalates, sulphates and alcohol. VIRTUALLY WEIGHTLESS Lightweight and luxurious, Crystal Retinal’s silk-like texture sinks effortlessly into skin to nurture and help restore the complexion. ANTIBACTERIAL PROPERTIES Unlike many other forms of vitamin A, retinaldehyde boasts direct, powerful antibacterial properties, making it the perfect anti-ageing product for blemish-prone skin. When used over time, it helps diminish P. acnes, the bacteria responsible for breakouts, promoting a healthy- looking, balanced complexion. ‘Go low, and go slow. Start on TWOHEGREET IT an entry-level strength – 0.03% encapsulated retinaldehyde is perfect Available at for those new to Vitamin A. Use twice www.medik8.com.au and a week for the first 2 weeks, then once Medik8 clinics throughout every other night for a further 2 weeks Australia and then nightly application. Once your skin has accepted the molecule without experiencing any irritation you can then move up to a higher strength to maximise your results.’ With the Crystal Retinal range, the future of anti-ageing skincare has never looked so bright. CBM www.cosbeauty.com.au 51

SKIN iS Clinical launches SPF innovation FORGET EVERYTHING YOU KNOW ABOUT SPF/MAKEUP HYBRIDS. THE NEW PERFECTINT POWDER BY iS CLINICAL PROVIDES UNPRECEDENTED MULTILEVEL PROTECTION WITH A HYDRATING MATTE FINISH. By now, you’re probably well aware of iS Clinical, a skincare line that has quietly taken the beauty industry by storm and become one of the most coveted brands in the market. Used by dermatologists and skin professionals and adored by many an A-lister, this brand is backed by hard science, delivering highly effective, clinically validated skincare products that offer dramatic improvements to specific skin concerns. iS Clinical’s skincare ethos involves four steps: cleanse, treat, hydrate and protect, and the range offers products in each of these categories for a variety of specific skin types. Every option in the iS Clinical collection offers pure, pharmaceutical- grade botanicals combined into powerful formulas, designed to promote healthy skin function at a cellular level.

So, it’s little wonder that their new product PerfecTint Powder SPF 40 has us excited. Available in five tints to match every skin tone, PerfecTint Powder provides silky, broad spectrum coverage and free radical protection to help protect skin against the visible signs of photoageing . PERFECTINT POWDER: THE NEW SKIN PROTECTANT PerfecTint Powder’s unique fomulation provides superior hydration while minimising the appearance of pores and absorbing surface oil to create a flawless matte finish. It features iS Clinical’s botanical antioxidant Extremozyme® technology, which is clinically proven to help protect DNA from environmental stressors while providing penetrating hydration even in powder form. It’s ideal to use as the last step in your skincare or makeup regimen as well as on the go – excellent for sports, face, neck, decollete, scalp, you name it! One of the brand’s fundamental points of difference is its independent clinical studies on the final formulations of its products, and PerfecTint Powder is no different. In a 2020 study*, the ability of PerfecTint Powder SPF 40 to protect the skin from the harmful effects of environmental exposure and pollution was evaluated using diesel particulate matter with a particle size below 0.18 um. This small pollution particle damages even the smallest subunits of skin at both cellular and subcellular levels and increases skin ageing. The authors note particle sizes of below 2.5 um are small enough to penetrate even into pores and between cells and cause far-reaching skin damage. The study found that application of PerfecTint Powder SPF 40 protects against damage caused by pollution. Specifically, the authors stated the following benefits: • Very strong antioxidant effects/oxidative stress protection/free radical protection www.cosbeauty.com.au 53

SKIN THE STUDY FOUND THAT PERFECTINT POWDER LESSENS PIGMENTATION INDUCED BY OXIDATIVE DAMAGE AND POLLUTION. • Very strong anti-inflammatory protection • Cytoprotective effects, especially when skin is exposed to environmental stressors • Strengthens the epidermal barrier • Regenerative and cellular renewal effects • Inhibits melanogenesis and lessens pigmentation induced by oxidative damage and pollution (in addition to SPF effects which are also active here) • Wound-healing effects • Strong hydration effects • Anti-ageing effects • Additional benefits resulting from solar protection (SPF effects) KEY INGREDIENTS Key ingredients of iS CLINICAL PerfecTint Powder SPF 40 include: • Zinc Oxide 25%, a safe, physical boad spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen ingredient which provides a physical barrier to reflect and absorb UV radiation; • Calcium Sodium Borosilicate 5%, which provides light-diffusing properties that enhance skin protection against High-Energy Visible (HEV) light damage, such as blue light pollution; • Hydroxyapatite 5%, which enhances UVA/UVB protection while providing defence against wrinkles and photoageing; • Lycopodium Clavatum 1%, which helps improve skin hydration levels from the epidermis to the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ); and • Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract (Extremozyme) 1%, which optimises and reinforces collagen synthesis and moisture absorption in the skin. CBM * Study performed at Genemarkers, LLC. Study summarised by Charlene DeHaven MD, Clinical Director, Innovative Skincare.

protect skin: POPWERDFEERCSTPINFT40 Provides unprecedented multilevel broad spectrum UVA/UVB protection Strong free radical protection with specially formulated antioxidants DNA protective with Extremozyme® technology Environmental protection Unique formulation providing superior hydration Supports skin barrier function Improved skin response to stress Botanically based, non-irritating, non-allergenic 5 tints to match every skin tone Great for all skin types, all ages Paraben-free Easy to use powder brush – just twist and sweep over skin WHERE TO BUY PerfecTint Powder SPF 40, RRP $110. Head to www. isclinical.com.au for a list of authorised clinics and retailers in Australia and New Zealand. www.cosbeauty.com.au 55

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WHY MOVE OVER POLLUTION HORMONES, COULD BE GENETICS, DIET AND STRESS – AIR CAUSING POLLUTION IS ONE OF YOUR ACNE THE MOST COMMON CAUSES OF ADULT – AND ACNE. HERE’S HOW TO HOW TO HELP PROTECT SKIN PREVENT IT FROM POLLUTION DAMAGE. WORDS BY NATASHA BOUGARD ON BEHALF OF TANOLOGIST. We know that keeping our skin cleansed and moisturised is key to keeping our complexion clear. But it’s not just about what we do – loads of outside factors can affect our skin and cause acne. The weather can mess with our complexions. We often end up with red, irritated skin in the winter. UV rays from the sun are the biggest cause of skin ageing and can make our skin oilier in the summer. But did you know pollution can affect your skin, too? Here, we’ll cover how air pollution can cause that dreaded acne and how you can stop it in its tracks. www.cosbeauty.com.au 57

F E AT U R E HOW DOES POLLUTION AFFECT ACNE? Air pollution releases small particles of gases, including carbon monoxide, sulphur dioxide and nitrogen, in the air. We know these gases are dangerous to breathe in, but they can also wreak havoc when they land on our faces. Pollution manifests itself as debris and dust, and this physical dirt is bad news for clear complexions. When this muck lands on your face, it can clog your pores, which leads to acne. If that wasn’t bad enough, pollution causes free radical damage, and this can make your skin age faster. It’s bad news all around if your goal is to keep your skin smooth and youthful. HOW CAN YOU COMBAT POLLUTION ACNE? Air pollution is worse in city and town centres because traffic congestion contributes to it. But if you’re not a countryside girl or boy, fear not – you don’t have to commit to a new rural life to keep your skin crystal clear! LOOK AFTER YOUR SKIN BARRIER When it comes to fighting acne, we’re often guilty of waging war on our skin with harsh ingredients instead of playing nice with it. And while using proven acne-fighting ingredients like salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide can definitely ease and prevent acne, we shouldn’t be going too hard with them. If you use them too much, these acne-fighters can damage your skin

barrier. This is the first line of getting into your pores to clean out defence for your skin, and keeping some of the nasties that have made it happy means your skin will stay their way in. clear, soft and smooth. Pollution also damages your skin barrier, so DITCH THE the last thing you need is to weaken PORE-CLOGGERS it even further. Because pollution particles can Adding ingredients that make up make their way into your pores, the your skin’s barrier is a sure-fire way last thing you need is more pore- to keep it healthy. Ceramides and clogging – AKA comedogenic – lipids make up most of it, so look for ingredients. If you’re loading your cleansers, serums and moisturisers skin with comedogenic products, with these ingredients – they’ll help even double cleansing might not be build up that essential defence. able to fully clean out your pores. Niacinamide can help to soothe your skin barrier (and, as a bonus, can These ingredients can be found make your pores look smaller!), while in a lot of the products we put on antioxidants will help fight off that our face, from makeup to self-tan, free radical damage. and even our skincare! But making some clever swaps will help you keep If you don’t look after your skin your skin as clear as possible, which barrier, you’ll never get that glowing, will make fighting pollution pimples clear complexion of your dreams. much easier. CLEANSE… AND When it comes to skincare, steer CLEANSE AGAIN clear of products that contain ingredients like coconut oil, cocoa If you live, study or work in a city, it’s butter and cetyl alcohol. Instead, hard to avoid pollution. We know stick to lighter hydrating ingredients you’ll be working that cleanser in like hyaluronic acid. extra hard, but did you know that just one cleanse doesn’t do the job? A lot of makeup products like primers and foundation are now More than just a TikTok trend, formulated with skincare ingredients, double cleansing is a guaranteed meaning they’ll enrich your skin way to get every last bit of makeup while you glam up. And if you love and grime off your skin. If you aren’t a year-round bronzed glow, switch cleansing your skin properly, muck from pigmented facial tan to clear and makeup build up – that’s a tan drops, such as Tanologist’s Face recipe for acne. + Body Tanning Drops – the pigment in traditional self-tanners can clog First, you want to use a cleansing pores, so eliminating that will help oil or balm. Micellar water is also you to keep your skin clear. good for getting makeup off, and it is an easy replacement if you use When it comes to keeping acne at makeup wipes at the minute. This bay, it can be hard to stay on top of step will clean the surface of your all the things that can cause it. Many skin and get rid of most of what’s on of us might not have known that it. The second cleanse, which is your pollution can cause or worsen it. But usual water-based cleanser, will wash now that you do, you’ll be able to away anything left over, as well as confidently help prevent it! CBM www.cosbeauty.com.au 59

SKIN SkwiinnsMTX® NoicfhtehePYroeadruct SKINMTX® CONTINUES TO BREAK NEW GROUND WITH ITS AWARD-WINNING SKINCARE PRODUCTS AND KEY ACTIVE INGREDIENT TECHNOLOGY. Award-winning SkinMTX® is skin recuperate, the complex of continuing its reign as one of the ceramide and Bisabolol provides a most cutting-edge skincare brands protective “second skin”, shielding on the market. Its latest accolade the underlying skin from external is winning the “Niche Product of aggressors while it helps the the Year” at the Beauty World skin rebuild its moisture barrier. Middle East 2021 Awards. Concurrently, a synergistic blend of skin-restoring actives promotes The winning product, Advanced a healthy-looking complexion, Reconditioning Cream, is a bringing forth optimal skin recovery protective cream that is specially that results in a renewed, pristine- formulated to help aid in the looking appearance. recovery of the skin barrier after harsh aesthetic procedures. SkinMTX® Advanced It helps protect the skin from Reconditioning Cream is part of excessive dryness, visible the Dermat Series, recommended redness and irritations with its for post-laser and post-surgical potent calming and reparative procedures to help accelerate ingredients. the skin’s natural healing process and help maximise outcomes of Designed to create an aesthetic procedures. optimum environment to help

BREAKING BARRIERS SkinMTX® is experienced on the awards circuit. In 2021, one of its hero products and signature technologies, TeloZyme™ Youth Activator, was awarded the 2021 Beauty Insider Award – Best in Anti-Aging title. The product is a revolutionary multifaceted serum based on the Nobel-prize winning discovery of telomeres and how the deterioration of this part of the DNA structure accelerates cell ageing. This ground- breaking innovation is specially formulated to target the integrity of telomeres for younger-looking skin. Other signature technologies include Intense RejuvorA™ Cream, a Vitamin A complex with a unique encapsulation system to effectively deliver retinol into the skin without causing sensitivity or irritation, and Peptide Serum+, a skin-rejuvenating booster that offers visible age-reversal benefits by helping to reboot in 3 ways: physical barrier, chemical barrier and the hydra memory function. SKINMTX® ADVANCED RECONDITIONING CREAM KEY INGREDIENTS: Rebarrier™ Colla-Protect™ Phytocalm-7™ • Helps with reconstitution of • Helps plump the complexion • A synergy of 7 the skin barrier and increase skin firmness natural plant extracts for a maximum • Provides proper hydration • Helps protect skin from anti-irritation effect and optimal skin comfort UVA-induced damage, thus aiding in the • Has a skin-soothing effect • Combines Bisabolol and prevention of visible signs and helps reinforce skin ceramides to produce a of photoageing barrier function synergistic effect www.cosbeauty.com.au 61

SKIN THE SKINMTX® STORY Developed in Switzerland, SkinMTX® has been innovating skincare for more than two decades, and now it’s Australia’s turn to enjoy this remarkable skincare range. SkinMTX® is a dermatological- grade skincare brand trusted by dermatologists, aesthetic doctors and medi-spas around the world. SkinMTX® formulations are built around research-proven actives that deliver optimal efficacy to help ensure the benefits reach the depth of the skin and deliver visible improvements to common skin concerns. The range includes in-clinic and home-care for Aesthetic Dermatology (Dermat), Anti- Ageing, Anti-Acne, Skin Brightening (Pigmentation) and Special Care lines. DERMATOLOGICAL-GRADE AT-HOME SKIN SOLUTIONS SkinMTX Anti-Ageing SkinMTX® Anti-Ageing activates the skin’s restorative ability to help preserve a youthful-looking, vibrant appearance. The range features the signature active, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, which is clinically proven to minimise the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles caused by repeated facial contractions. It also features the revolutionary TeloZyme ComplexTM, based on the Nobel Prize-winning discovery that the ageing process is linked to telomeres. The Anti-Ageing range includes: Telozyme™ Youth Activator, TeloLift™ Neck Cream, Fine Line Eraser Serum, Ultimate Fine Line Eraser.

SkinMTX Brightening SkinMTX® Brightening helps minimise the appearance of pigmentation, dark spots and scars for visibly luminous skin. The range features key active Alpha- Arbutin, which has been proven to have high efficacy and stability, and a similar brightening effect as hydroquinone (considered the gold standard for hyperpigmentation treatment) without the toxicity and irritation. The Brightening range includes: Alpha Optimal Brightener, Alpha Illuminator, Radiance Cleansing Wash, Lumi Cleansing Milk. SkinMTX Anti-Acne SkinMTX® Anti-Acne purifies skin for refined clarity and long-lasting matteness. The range is formulated to help clear congested complexions, and to help treat and minimise the appearance of blemishes. The high- potency products are designed to help unclog pores and blackheads, gently cleanse and resurface skin and promote a radiant, shine-free complexion. The Anti-Acne range includes: Comedone Acti-Clear Lotion, Acti-Pure Cleansing Gel, Acti-Matte Concentrate. www.cosbeauty.com.au 63

SKIN SkinMTX Special Care SkinMTX® Special Care is a special repertoire of products to achieve a rigorous regimen for youthful-looking skin. It features patented key actives such as BioRenew Peptide™, PhytoActive+™ and ActiMarine Hydrator™ in the Peptide Serum+, an intense rejuvenating booster that is inspired by biomimetic-technology. The range also includes signature product, Intense RejuvorA™ Cream, a unique and vastly improved form of retinol complex that is powered by a revolutionary triple encapsulation technology. The Special Care range includes: Peptide Serum+, Intense RejuvorA™ Cream, Potent Eye Concentrate, Potent C, Supreme Eye Brightening Gel, Mineral-Rich Body Moisturizer, 3 in 1 Matt Tinted Protector, Skin Brightening Day Protector, Smart Shield Protector.

SkinMTX Dermat SkinMTX® Dermat is designed to meet the continued increase in demand for aesthetic procedures by providing essential and effective post-procedure care. It is formulated to help maximise the treatment outcome, optimise the recovery process, minimise risks of infection and scarring while providing comfort from tenderness and signs of irritation. The Dermat range includes: Delicate Cleansing Mousse, Hydrating Mist, Advanced Restorative Serum, Advanced Reconditioning Cream. WHERE TO GET IT Available at SkinMTX® clinics nationwide and at skinmtx.com.au @skinmtx.australia www.cosbeauty.com.au 65

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HpaMnaYtrthUiDt-enRaRuegAArletDsFiimnAwfgoCairIfttaAehcLial HYDRAFACIAL AND MURAD HAVE TEAMED UP TO CREATE THE MURAD RETINOL BOOSTER FOR HYDRAFACIAL. WITHOUT FURTHER ADO, MEET THE DREAM TEAM. HydraFacial, the next-gen immediate increase in hydration and skin rejuvenation treat that to help skin hold more water for a has taken the beauty world firmer, more dewy appearance. by storm, just got personal. Made especially for HydraFacial, the Murad RETINOL: THE GOLD Retinol Booster can be added to STANDARD ANTI- HydraFacial treatments for targeted AGEING INGREDIENT treatment of wrinkles and age-related skin concerns, accelerating the skin’s Vitamin A is arguably the single- surface renewal and promoting a more most important ingredient to radiant complexion. prevent, restore, normalise and help repair damaged skin. It helps The Retinol Booster boasts Retinol smooth wrinkles and fine lines, while Tri-Active Technology (a fast-acting increasing skin hydration and collagen retinoid, time-released retinol and production. It evens out skin texture a retinol booster all in one) to help at the same time as increasing skin combat fine lines and wrinkles, thickness and improving its elasticity. uneven skin tone and loss of radiance. The serum also includes micronised Since our bodies do not make collagen peptides to promote an Vitamin A, our skin becomes deficient www.cosbeauty.com.au 67

SKIN over time. In particular, the sun depletes gratifying glow in just three steps and the skin of Vitamin A and this is one of 30 minutes, with no downtime the reasons those who super-expose their or discomfort. skin to sun damage age faster than those who do not (and another reason to always Each HydraFacial treatment (fast use broad-spectrum SPF every single day, fact: there’s a HydraFacial treatment rain, hail or shine). performed every 10 seconds somewhere around the world) uses the same Retinol, a Vitamin A derivative, acts multi-step treatment process to as an antioxidant and neutralises the guarantee consistent, noticeable skin free radicals that result from exposure revitalisation. The three steps involved to ultraviolet light. In addition, regular work together to elevate good results to application of retinol increases cellular exceptional results. turnover, stimulating a thickening of the epidermis and promoting the removal of The first step is the Cleanse + Peel, excess pigment. which involves a deep cleanse and gentle exfoliation and resurfacing to uncover Medical research has also documented a new layer of skin. The second step that the use of retinol on the skin can is Extract + Hydrate, which includes create new collagen deposition, and a painless vortex extraction device greater proliferation of new blood vessels that removes debris from your pores and capillary formation. Dramatic while delivering intense moisturisers improvements have also been observed that nourish skin. The last step is with regard to skin smoothness, evening Fuse + Protect, which is an infusion of skin tone and overall skin rejuvenation. of hyaluronic acid, antioxidants and vitamins that work to restore, plump and HYDRAFACIAL: THE hydrate the complexion. NEXT-LEVEL SKIN TREATMENT Suitable for all skin types, HydraFacial improves the appearance of fine lines, Creating a brand-new category in wrinkles, congested and enlarged skin health and beauty, HydraFacial pores, oily or acne prone skin, is an in-clinic treatment that uses a hyperpigmentation and brown spots. unique delivery system to cleanse, extract and hydrate. And now with the added personalisation of the exclusive Murad The system uses the brand’s patented Retinol Booster, the youth-boosting hydradermabrasion technology and super results of HydraFacial set a new standard serums that are made with nourishing for high-performance skin treatments. ingredients, providing an immediate Take your HydraFacial results to the next outcome and creating an instantly level and get set for the best skin of your life! CBM HYDRAFACIAL IMPROVES THE APPEARANCE OF FINE LINES, WRINKLES, CONGESTED AND ENLARGED PORES, OILY OR ACNE PRONE SKIN, HYPERPIGMENTATION AND BROWN SPOTS.

BoMRoUesttRienAroDflor HYDRAFACIAL MADE FOR HYDRAFACIAL BENEFITS First retinol-based booster developed for HydraFacial devices Accelerates skin’s surface renewal and instantly plumps to minimise the look of wrinkles, evens out skin tone and boosts radiance Rapid renewal while being gentle on skin Plumps skin’s surface Exfoliates and smooths WHERE TO GET IT To find a HydraFacial practitioner in your area, visit www.likeyourlook.com.au www.cosbeauty.com.au 69

F E AT U R E ETVhOeELUPITCION EYEBROW PLUCK ME! AFTER A GOOD 10-YEAR RUN, BUSHY BROWS ARE BOWING OUT WHILE THIN BROWS ARE MAKING THEIR CYCLICAL COMEBACK. IN HONOUR OF THE SKINNY BROW REVIVAL, WE LOOK AT EYEBROW TRENDS THROUGH THE DECADES.

www.cosbeauty.com.au 71 credit: Ga Fullner / Shutterstock.com

F E AT U R E 1920s PENCIL-THIN & DOWNTURNED CLARA BOW

1930s PENCIL-THIN & ROUND MARLENE DIETRICH www.cosbeauty.com.au 73

F E AT U R E 1940s 1950s FULL & NATURAL FULL & GROOMED ELIZABETH TAYLOR MARILYN MONROE

1960s THICK & STRAIGHT AUDREY HEPBURN www.cosbeauty.com.au 75

F E AT U R E 1970s 1980s THIN & ARCHED BUSHY & NATURAL DIANA ROSS BROOKE SHIELDS

1990s THIN & ARCHED KATE MOSS www.cosbeauty.com.au 77 Credit: Featureflash Photo Agency / Shutterstock.com

F E AT U R E 2010s Credit: Featureflash Photo Agency / Shutterstock.com THICK & BOLD 2000s CARA DELEVINGNE PENCIL-THIN & ARCHED CHRISTINA AGUILERA

Credit: Shutterstock.com Credit: Shutterstock.com NOW SKINNY EYEBROWS – RETURN OF THE 90S BELLA HADID www.cosbeauty.com.au 79

F E AT U R E THE SECRET’S OUT: HOW JENNIFER ANISTON GETS HER GLOW JENNIFER ANISTON IS TEAMING UP WITH LEADING WELLNESS BRAND, VITAL PROTEINS, TO INSPIRE US ALL TO LEAD HEALTHY AND VIBRANT LIVES (WITH INCREDIBLE SKIN).

Jennifer Aniston is the OG of simple, wholesome wellness, oozing vitality and health with that famous glowing skin and shiny hair. Yes, she meditates, journals and never misses a workout, but there’s another lesser-known step to her beauty regimen that’s finally out of the bag: collagen. Aniston, a long-time user of Vital Proteins collagen supplements, is now the brand’s Chief Creative Officer – and she’s ready to share her secrets to looking and feeling great. ‘Collagen is the glue that holds everything together. I’ve always been an advocate for nourishing your wellness from within, which is why I started using Vital Proteins so many years ago,’ Aniston says. ‘Now to have the opportunity to be a part of the brand in a bigger way, as Chief Creative Officer, is very exciting to me.’ Aniston has been using Vital Proteins for around six years now — well before the brand became a fixture on social feeds. She incorporates Vital Proteins products to stay on track with her wellness goals, and has also noticed a glow from within and an improvement in how she looks and feels since adding collagen to her daily routine. Collagen is the body’s most abundant protein and helps to support hair, skin, nail, bone and joint health. As we grow older, however, our body’s natural collagen production begins to decline. That’s where collagen supplements come in. ‘Our strength starts from within, so I choose good nutrition and the right supplements to start off my day,’ says Aniston. ‘My go-to collagen routine is adding Vital Proteins Collagen Peptides in my morning cup of coffee or smoothie – it’s so easy to use.’ www.cosbeauty.com.au 81

F E AT U R E DO COLLAGEN POWDERS REALLY WORK? Collagen is the vital building block hydrated, which is key to helping of our bodies. It represents almost prevent wrinkle formation. They are 30 percent of all human protein also known to promote hair and nail content. It is one of the most health, and support healthy bones, abundant substances, second tendons, ligaments and joints, only to water. enabling us to lead healthy, more active lives for longer. Collagen plays an essential role in the health of your skin, bones and Though we may not all have connective tissues, keeping joints won Jennifer Aniston’s genetic strong, making skin elastic and lottery, collagen peptides can helping protect your organs, as well help our body replace lost collagen as many other functions. and in turn help to combat some of the internal and external signs Collagen is composed of three of ageing. chains, wound together in a tight triple helix (like a hair braid). Each While more research is needed chain is composed of amino acids — for a complete scientific consensus predominantly, glycine, proline and on the benefits of collagen hydroxyproline. This very specific supplements, if it’s good enough composition of amino acids makes for age-defying Jen, who are we to collagen a unique type of protein. disagree?! CBM The body becomes less efficient at producing collagen as we age. According to an article for the Cleveland Clinic, a world-leading hospital, we start losing collagen in our 20s. By the age of 40, we’re likely to lose about 1% of bodily collagen per year, and menopause speeds up that loss, which contributes to wrinkles and lackluster skin, stiff joints, worn-down cartilage and decreased muscle mass. This is where collagen nutrition supplements can be beneficial. Collagen nutrition products can boost a youthful appearance – in fact, studies show that collagen peptides may actually slow signs of ageing by keeping the skin

VITAL PROTEINS COLLAGEN NUTRITION LAUNCHES IN PRODUCTS CAN BOOST A AUSTRALIA YOUTHFUL APPEARANCE VITAL PROTEINS was founded in 2013 by Kurt Seidensticker – IN FACT, STUDIES on the belief that collagen nutrition is an important part SHOW THAT COLLAGEN of maintaining overall health. In just eight years, VITAL PEPTIDES MAY ACTUALLY PROTEINS has become the leading collagen brand in SLOW SIGNS OF AGEING America, creating a movement that excites consumers to take control of their wellness journey. VITAL PROTEINS products BY KEEPING THE SKIN contain high-quality bovine or marine collagen sources, HYDRATED. offering collagen-based nutrition that promotes overall wellness from the inside out. Launching in Australia with five collagen products, the VITAL PROTEINS range includes its best-selling Collagen Peptides Powder ($39.95), Marine Collagen Peptide Powder ($52.95) and Collagen Creamer, in Vanilla or Coconut ($39.95) VITAL PROTEINS is available in Australia exclusively instore in Priceline Pharmacy. www.cosbeauty.com.au 83

F E AT U R E VIKTOR&ROLF LAUNCHES FLOWERBOMB RUBY ORCHID VIKTOR&ROLF HAVE DROPPED THEIR MOST EXTRAVAGANT SCENT YET – FLOWERBOMB RUBY ORCHID, THE NEWEST AND BOLDEST ADDITION TO THE ICONIC FLOWERBOMB FRAGRANCE RANGE. Inspired by the theatre, flamboyance and sensuality of burlesque, avant-garde luxury fashion house Viktor&Rolf have unleashed Flowerbomb Ruby Orchid. This fruity floral gourmand fragrance blends ruby orchid flower, juicy peach and red vanilla bean to create a magnetic floral fantasia. Made for those who take centre stage, Flowerbomb Ruby Orchid is a bold yet extremely wearable fragrance – confident, glamorous and just slightly provocative. This is destined to be a show-stopper. Viktor&Rolf approach olfactory development in the same way as their fashion: with meticulous technical refinement, continuously evolving their scents and bringing them to new, unparalleled heights. Launched in 2005, Flowerbomb is the iconic, transformative fragrance that, with its

WEARING FLOWERBOMB RUBY ORCHID, YOU’LL FEEL LIKE ANYTHING’S POSSIBLE. profusion of flowers, has the power to make everything seem more positive. With Flowerbomb, Viktor&Rolf aspired to create an innovative olfactory experience; a modern-day flower power exuding an air of opulence, with rich yet meticulously layered notes, leaving a remarkable trail. ‘This is really a new chapter in the Flowerbomb story. Ruby Orchid is a very feminine, erotic version of Flowerbomb,’ says the Dutch fashion house. A MORE CAPTIVATING, CARNAL ITERATION OF FLOWERBOMB Created in chorus by Viktor&Rolf and three esteemed perfumers, Flowerbomb Ruby Orchid pairs orchid and vanilla accords — a voluptuous, rich Ruby Orchid Flower accord and an intensely sensual and opulent Red Foxy Vanilla Bean accord. The Ruby Flower Orchid accord — the femme fatale of orchids, with its intensely dark red flowers — is known for its ambery, creamy scent, leading away from Flowerbomb’s original luminous and fresh character to something more suave and carnal. The Red Foxy Vanilla Bean accord brings additional intensity. This is the first time both orchid and vanilla accords have been used in a single Viktor&Rolf perfume. Vine Peach accord and several other red fruit notes contribute to the lingering sense of pleasure and accentuate the fragrance’s crimson memo. Be the star of the show with this captivating, rich and incredibly alluring combination of sweet fruit-floral notes. Wearing Flowerbomb Ruby Orchid, you’ll feel like anything’s possible. CBM www.cosbeauty.com.au 85

COSMETIC ENHANCEMENT Your guide to BREAST AUGMENTATION BREAST IMPLANT SURGERY IS NOT A CASE OF ONE SIZE FITS ALL. WE LOOK AT THE ESSENTIAL COMPONENTS OF CHOOSING THE RIGHT BREAST IMPLANT FOR YOU. reasts are beautiful in all shapes and sizes, but if your breasts are sagging, flat, asymmetrical or lacking the volume and shape you desire, you’re not alone. It’s estimated some 20,000 Australians undergo breast implant surgery every year. Some women seek implant surgery to correct congenital or developmental anatomical abnormalities, while others are striving to repair the toll of age or breastfeeding by restoring their breasts to a more youthful and upright position. Other women simply want to have a larger size bust, which is more proportionate to their overall body size. Implants may also be required to reconstruct a damaged or missing breast, from injury, illness or mastectomy. There are countless reasons women undergo breast augmentation and

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COSMETIC ENHANCEMENT each one has unique importance to the individual. If you’re considering breast implants, it’s important to know these are not lifetime devices and need to be replaced after around 10-15 years in many cases. Careful discussion of your expectations and concerns with your chosen surgeon, along with planning and assessment, can help to achieve a successful outcome and natural-looking results. You should thoroughly discuss your goals and motivations with a surgeon you trust and with whom you feel comfortable. Listening to your surgeon’s feedback and advice, and seeking a second professional opinion, will go a long way in ensuring expectations and motivations are realistic. Satisfaction with breast augmentation results ultimately depends on your understanding of the capabilities and limitations of the procedure. ISMHPALPAENT choice for those patients with well- not to be as full as round implants but shaped natural breasts who desire a because they are fuller in the lower Choosing the right implant is straightforward breast enhancement. half they can also provide greater dependent on your existing breast projection in proportion to the size size, shape, symmetry and projection, TEARDROP IMPLANTS of the base, making them particularly body type, and your personal suitable for women with little natural preferences. There is no one breast Teardrop, or anatomical, implants breast tissue. Mild elevation of the implant shape that is best for more closely resemble the natural breast and the nipple can also be everyone. Your surgeon is the best shape of a breast, gradually sloping achieved, making them particularly resource for determining what downwards to produce an attractive suitable for women who have mild breast implant is best for you and straight line from the collarbone to droopy or tuberous breasts. your body type. the nipple. Teardrop implants tend ROUND IMPLANTS Round implants are circular with an even projection of volume. They are a good choice for those who want more fullness in the upper part of the breast and tend to give greater cleavage. Many surgeons agree that round implants are typically the best

CAREFUL DISCUSSION OF YOUR EXPECTATIONS AND CONCERNS WITH YOUR CHOSEN SURGEON, ALONG WITH PLANNING AND ASSESSMENT, CAN HELP TO ACHIEVE A SUCCESSFUL OUTCOME AND NATURAL-LOOKING RESULTS. IMPLANT SIZE Breast implant sizes are designated by their volume, typically ranging from 90 to 900 cubic centimetres (cc), or by their weight. One gram of silicone is equivalent to slightly less than 1ml (1cc). The higher the number, the larger the implant. They are also made with different diameter bases to suit different widths of chest wall and with low to high profiles (amount of forward projection). For this reason, each manufacturer produces a number of ‘styles’. It’s important to take your natural breast width into consideration. Your surgeon will measure the base diameter of your chest to determine the ideal width of implant. If the implant is too wide for your chest, you may get ‘webbing’ between your breasts (symmastia) or too much ‘side boob’. If the implant is too narrow, it will not fill the chest appropriately and be difficult to create a shapely cleavage. The choice of implant projection is to a large extent a personal one. A woman with adequate breast tissue and a shape she is happy with may opt for a low-profile implant that will simply increase the size of her breasts. Another patient seeking to create cleavage, or a patient with some degree of sag, may prefer a high-profile implant that can help achieve these results. Your surgeon will take into consideration the width of your chest and breast tissue and advise you on the most suitable implant size and style for your individual anatomy. www.cosbeauty.com.au 89

COSMETIC ENHANCEMENT SvsILSAICLOINNEE Saline and silicone breast implants both have an outer silicone shell; however they differ in material, consistency and techniques used for placement. Both types of implants have their own advantages and risks. Silicone gel-filled implants are by far the most common in Australia. Silicone implants contain a cohesive gel, designed to mimic real breast tissue. It has a slightly firm, non-runny consistency, which can give a more natural feel. As the gel is not liquid, the risk of dispersal if the implant ruptures is minimised. It also typically maintains its shape better than a saline implant, especially in the upper part of the implant. Saline-filled implants use a medical- grade saltwater solution, which makes the implant feel like a water-bed. This can be controlled to an extent by the volume of fill in the implant. If implant rupture occurs, the saline is absorbed by the body. However, saline implants feel firmer than silicone implants and have a higher risk of visible folds and ripples.

SMOOTH vs TEXTURED Implant shells can be smooth or textured. Smooth-shelled implants are easy to insert and may make the breast move and feel more natural than a textured shell in certain patients. However, they have increased risk of capsular contracture (hardening of the breast), which is a common reason for re-operation. Textured implants have a thicker shell and the very nature of their surface means they can grab onto and adhere to the surrounding tissue, causing less friction between the implant and breast pocket and therefore helping to reduce the risk of capsular contracture. Many surgeons also believe it offers them greater control over the ultimate shape of the breast. INCISION SITE The three main incision options are the the surgeon to work close to the breast. inframammary crease (under the breast It is possible for the surgeon to easily where it meets the chest), periareolar and precisely place the breast implants (around the nipple) and transaxillary in various positions in relation to the (inside the armpit). chest muscle. However, this is the only incision that involves cutting through INFRAMAMMARY breast tissue and ducts, and sensitivity in the nipple may be reduced. The inframammary incision is by far the most common breast augmentation TRANSAXILLARY incision used today, made in the crease under the breast close to the The transaxillary incision is made inframammary fold. The surgeon in the natural crease of the armpit creates a pocket for the breast implant, and a channel is created down to the which is slid up through the incision, breast. This may be performed with an then positioned behind the nipple. endoscope (a small tube with a surgical This incision offers the best exposure light and camera in the end) to provide for visualisation and allows the implant visibility. The implant is inserted and to be placed over, partially under or moved through the channel into a completely under the chest wall muscle. prepared pocket. The scar is hidden in the crease under the breast. The greatest advantage of an underarm breast augmentation incision PERIAREOLAR is that no scar is left on the breasts. The scar is virtually invisible in the armpit For the periareolar incision, an incision fold and lack of tension generally makes is made just beyond the areola, which is for straightforward healing. the darker area of skin surrounding the nipple. The incision should be made The transaxillary site is relatively far at the very edge of the areola where from the breast, where the surgeon the dark tissue meets the lighter breast needs to create a pocket for the implant, tissue, which makes the scar least visible. so visibility is limited. There is also a higher incidence of the implant being Similar to the inframammary positioned too high and a greater risk of incision, the periareolar incision allows breast asymmetry after surgery. www.cosbeauty.com.au 91

COSMETIC ENHANCEMENT IMPLANT PLACEMENT The placement of breast implants has a significant impact on the final outcome of breast augmentation and therefore it requires individual consideration. Experienced surgeons base their implant placement decisions on factors such as the patient’s quantity of breast tissue, natural breast size and symmetry, dimension and shape of the chest wall, amount of subcutaneous fat and quality of breast skin. Generally, there are three placement options: subglandular (in front of the muscle), submuscular (behind the muscle) and dual plane (partially under the muscle). SUBGLANDULAR The subglandular pocket is created between the breast tissue and the pectoral muscle. This position resembles the plane of normal breast tissue and the implant is placed in front of the muscle. Sometimes the implant is covered by a thin membrane, the fascia, which lies on top of the muscle. This is called s ubfascial placement. This position is suited to patients who have sufficient breast tissue to cover the top of the implant. This procedure is typically faster and may be more comfortable for the patient than submuscular placement. There is generally less post-operative pain and a shorter recovery period because the chest muscles have not been disturbed during surgery. The implant also tends to move more naturally in this position. However, subglandular breast implants may be more visible, especially if the patient has little breast tissue, little body fat and thin skin. With subglandular implants, there tends to be more of a pronounced ‘roundness’ to the breasts, which may look less natural than those placed under the muscle, but this is a matter of personal preference.

SUBMUSCULAR SBCUORMREGAPSELTIRCYIAM: TRPIILOSANKNSST& The implant is placed under the While breast augmentation is typically complication, including seroma (the pectoralis major muscle after some a predictable procedure, all surgery development of extra fluid around release of the inferior muscular carries some level of risk. As well, the implant), haematoma, infection attachments. Most of the implant is breast implants should not be viewed and smoking. positioned under the muscle. This as one-and-done devices – they position can create a natural-looking will likely need to be removed or To treat capsular contracture, there contour at the top of the breast in replaced after approximately 10-15 are both surgical and non-surgical thin patients and those with very years. Complications arising from options, although generally most cases little breast tissue. The implant is fully breast augmentation can include the of capsular contracture will require covered, which helps to camouflage following. secondary surgery to remove the the edges of the implant, as well as implant. If the implants are replaced, rippling. With this placement, data has CAPSULAR to prevent reoccurrence a new pocket shown there is less chance of capsular CONTRACTURE should be made as fresh tissue needs contracture occurring. There may be to be in contact with the implant. more post-operative discomfort and a Capsular contracture, or hardening longer recovery period. The implants of the breast, is thought to be the INFECTION may appear high at first and take most common complication of breast longer to ‘drop’. implant surgery. It can occur at any Infection is a serious risk of any time but more commonly in the surgery and occurs when wounds DUAL PLANE months immediately after surgery. become contaminated with microorganisms, such as bacteria This is where the implant is placed During surgery, a pocket is made or fungi. When infection occurs, it partially beneath the pectoral muscle for the implant in the breast tissue. generally appears within six weeks of in the upper pole, where the implant After the implant has been inserted, the procedure. Most infections can edges tend to be most visible, while the body naturally forms a capsule of be treated with antibiotics, but in the the lower half of the implant is in the fibrous tissue around the implant. This worst cases the implant may need to be subglandular plane. This placement lining, or capsule, is formed by the removed and the infection eliminated is best suited to patients who have body’s living tissue, and is the body’s before the implant is replaced. insufficient tissue to cover the implant natural response. The capsule allows at the top of the breast but who need the implant to look and feel quite It’s important to keep an eye out the bottom of the implant to fully natural. In some cases, however, the for signs of infection, which may expand the lower half of the breast capsule begins to tighten, causing a include redness at the site, fatigue due to sag or a tight crease under shrink-wrap effect and squeezing the and fever. Increased pain and swelling the breast. implant that it surrounds. are also typical signs of infection but, because these symptoms are typical This position minimises the rippling Depending on the severity, the of all breast surgeries, they can be and edge effect in thin patients while breast can feel firm or hard, become difficult to detect. avoiding abnormal contours in the distorted and cause pain. It is not lower half of the breast. Generally, this actually the implant that has hardened RIPPLING placement is able to achieve a more – the shrinking of the capsule natural shape to the upper portion compresses the implant and causes Rippling occurs when the filling inside of the breast instead of the ‘upper it to feel hard, but if the implant is the breast implant moves, creating a roundness’ that can be more common removed it is still in its original winkle or fold on the outer shell of with subglandular implants. However, soft state. the implant which then can be felt it involves more complex surgery, by the patient, or which becomes which if not performed correctly may Though the exact causes of capsular outwardly visible. Rippling can also result in visible deformities when the contracture are unknown, there occur when adhesion to the envelope pectoral muscles are contracted. are factors that may lead to this restricts its movement. www.cosbeauty.com.au 93

COSMETIC ENHANCEMENT Various factors govern the likelihood of rippling, including the implant type, texture and position. It occurs less with silicone gel-filled implants, smooth-surfaced implants and those that are positioned under the chest muscle. If it occurs, the appearance of rippling is dependent on the patient – their physique and the thickness and quality of their skin. If there is little muscle or fatty tissue to cover the implant, any rippling that results will be more noticeable. Rippling generally appears on the outer and bottom sides of the breast and in the cleavage. IMPLANT DISPLACEMENT Displacement refers to the implants moving out of their desired position, and is more prone in women who have teardrop-shaped or very high- profile implants. Displacement may occur due to the implant being misplaced in the tissue pocket, or from excessively stretched tissue, or trauma. Displacement can occur at any time after the procedure, and will generally need to be surgically corrected. BREAST IMPLANT of breast implant-associated ALCL ASSOCIATED ALCL occur between 3 and 14 years after the implant (median: 8 years; range: 1-37 Breast implant-associated anaplastic years). According to the TGA website, large cell lymphoma (ALCL) is a rare over the past 10 years, three Australian and highly treatable cancer of the women have died from breast implant- immune system that can develop associated ALCL. around breast implants; it is not breast cancer. When diagnosed early and All reported cases of breast implant- treated properly, this disease is curable. associated cancer in Australia involve Most cases of breast implant-associated patients who have had a textured (vs ALCL are cured by removal of the smooth) implant at some point in their implant and the capsule surrounding life. Based on current evidence, experts the implant. do not think breast implant-associated ALCL is related to either the contents According to the Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA), current expert opinion puts the risk of breast implant- associated ALCL at between 1-in-1,000 and 1-in-10,000. Based on currently available data, most (95%) of cases

BREAST IMPLANTS SHOULDN’T BE VIEWED AS LIFETIME DEVICES. TYPICALLY, THEY ARE REMOVED AFTER 10-15 YEARS. (saline/silicone) or shape (round/ implant illness”, but scientific evidence WAISNHSDEADNIDOANLEL teardrop) of the implant. is lacking to support this. Symptoms are non-specific and include general The psychology behind the Breast implants with a higher risk of fatigue, joint aches, headaches and decision to have a breast BIA-ALCL have either been removed brain fog. augmentation is one of the or suspended from the Australian most important aspects of market. In addition, some suppliers To date, there is no distinction the procedure. Many women have also decided to remove particular between the types of breast implant view their breasts as a vital types of breast implants from the and the likelihood of a patient component of their gender market. For up-to-date information developing an autoimmune response identity, as the female breast on which breast implants and tissue to the medical devices being inserted, is one of the prime symbols of expanders are affected, see tga.gov.au/ and there is no known link between femininity, motherhood and hubs/breast-implants. these symptoms and BIA-ALCL. sensuality. However, women are notoriously critical of their If there are changes in your breasts LONG-TERM SAFETY bodies and some may be associated with breast implants, and & MONITORING OF especially so of their breasts. especially if there is general swelling IMPLANTS When contemplating breast or a lump, contact your specialist for augmentation, ensure it’s for further investigation. NSW Health has recently published the right reasons. CBM a ‘ToolKit for the Management of Because breast implant-associated Breast Implants’ for doctors, which ALCL is rare, experts do not focuses on patient safety. The Toolkit recommend removal of breast implants warns patients that by proceeding with for women who have no problems with implant surgery, you are also required the implant. The risk of undergoing to undergo regular follow-up with surgery to remove your implants could your treating doctor for clinical and be higher than the risk of developing radiological assessment of your breast BIA-ALCL. If you are concerned, implants for as long as you have you should discuss your options with breast implants. your doctor. In addition, the Toolkit advises all Breast implants shouldn’t be viewed implant patients to ensure their doctor as lifetime devices, regardless of breast registers their breast implants at the implant-associated ALCL. Typically, time of surgery with the Australian they are removed after 10-15 years. Breast Device Registry. This will allow tracking of outcomes and safety BREAST IMPLANT and will allow notification of any ILLNESS important information on the safety of your breast implants to you directly. There have been anecdotal accounts of breast implants causing a variety of general health issues, known as “breast www.cosbeauty.com.au 95

BEAUTY endsWAMUAITNKUTEMEURNP/ HIGH-IMPACT, LOW-MAINTENANCE LOOKS WITH A NOD TO THE 90S. HERE’S WHAT TO WEAR ON YOUR FACE THIS SEASON.

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BEAUTY Throwback lips 1. The 90s are calling, and they demand darker, matte lip colours in burgundies, rich berries, maroons and brick-browns. Choose a colour at least two shades darker than your natural skin tone to nail the look. 98 www.cosbeauty.com.au