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GH 5 To stitch cushion two edges together using a ¼\" IJ (diagonal strips): seam, stitching through the 6 Refer to steps 1 & 2 for wadding and calico. Flip this Easy to remove vertical strips cushion. second strip away from the for washing! 7 Place the first strip on first so that the right side of top of the wadding/calico the strip is facing upwards, rectangle so that the right finger press and pin in place. side of the strip is facing (See Pic H.) upwards on top of the 9 Continue in this way, wadding and the strip is adding the strips, working centred on the diagonal from the centre diagonal from corner to corner. Pin strip in both directions until in place. Trim away the the wadding is covered. overhanging excess fabric Eleven strips will be needed strip in line with the outer in total. (See pics I & J.) edge. (See Pic G.)  Follow steps 6-10 for 8 Place the second strip on vertical stripes cushion top of the first, RST, pin in to finish. place and stitch the raw 51

Nestled in the Staffordshire Moorlands you’ll find our studio is the perfect place to find all your sewing needs. We offer expert sewing tuition, with workshops for beginners and the more experienced, including couture dressmaking and machine embroidery classes. As authorised dealer for Brother and Baby Lock we sell, repair and service sewing machines and overlockers. We know how important it is to get the right machine and we take the time to help you to choose. Find us on: thelornaknightsewingacademy www.lornaknight.com Bradnop, nr Leek, ST13 7NX Tel:07970 345628 Email:[email protected] BRISTOL'S PREMIER INDEPENDENT FABRIC SHOPAND SEWING SCHOOL SPECIALISING IN HIGH QUALITYDRESSMAKING FABRICS VISITUSAT16WHITEHOUSE STREET, BEDMINSTER, BRISTOL, BS3 4AY OR SHOPONLINEATLIKESEWAMAZING.COM CREATEYOUR DREAM HANDMADEWARDROBEWITH US! A wide range of quality dressmaking An independent, family-run sewing store fabrics, patterns and haberdashery for in Sheffield. your handmade wardrobe. We stock a wide range of fabrics, including Craft Cotton Company, Kaffe Providing a friendly personal service at Fassett and Tula Pink, as well as a good affordable prices, with fully recyclable range of reasonable priced budget cottons. packing. We also offer classes in a variety of crafts, jennystitchesfabrics from patchwork to dressmaking, ceramics to needle felting. Shop online at www.jennystitches.co.uk 1a Arundel Road, Sheffield, S35 2RB or visit in the shop in Cumbria. 0114 245 5996 [email protected] 82 Dalton Road, Barrow-in-Furness, Cumbria, LA14 1JH www.handmadehappyhare.com 52

ASK THE ABOUT ALISON SMITH EXPERTS Awarded an MBE for her services to Marvellous dressmaking, Alison is an industry expert Mandarin in classic couture and a published author. Alison has her own shop and line of patterns, Alison Smith MBE shares how to sew the and you can also learn with her at one of her perfect mandarin collar for this month’s exclusive workshops. Find out more on her beautiful Butterick dress website www.schoolofsewing.co.uk 53

ABCD E FGH T his month’s beautiful longer curved edge and B6551 dress pattern is press. (See pics A & B.) a great, easy fit that’s perfect for summer. However, CONSTRUCTION it features a mandarin collar, which can prove tricky to Place the two collar sections attach to avoid any lumpy RST to RST and pin at the bits at the front! The collar CF to ensure the two pieces is attached after the front line up. Put the two collar and back have been attached ends together and check the at the yoke. A shirt collar ends match. If you are unsure should be attached entirely of sewing a curve, mark the on the sewing machine, so stitching line with chalk. let me give you a few tips. (See Pic C.) When you stitch As I am using a heavily the CF, the first few stitches patterned fabric with a black should be at 90˚ to the folded background, I have used a edge of the under collar – this pink thread so you can see my will make sure the collar stitching easily. looks perfect when attached. (See Pic D.) PREPARATION Trim the non-interfaced Cut out the collar sections side of the seam. (See Pic and apply fusible E.) The front curves interfacing to the need notching wrong side of Top tip! to reduce the the collar bulk. (See piece, which Pic F.) Snip will be on all along the outside Notch the front the back of of the curves to the collar dress (the reduce bulk to take the outer collar). tension off There is no the seam edge. interfacing required on the other Turn the collar to the collar piece (the under collar), right side and press it so that which will be touching your the seam rolls slightly to the A mandarin collar and pin tucks give neck. On the under collar, non-interfaced side. (See Pic B6801 its sophisticated look turn in seam allowance on G.) The issue with all collars, 54

IJ V1704 features KL a mandarin collar with overcast edge M or collar stands, is the CF edge. One side tends to stretch as it’s attached and then you end up with a lumpy bit at the CF. To try and avoid this, make sure the CF is pressed so that the raw edge of the neck seam and the collar seam allowances sit at right angles to each other. Pin the collar to the neck N edge. At the CF, ensure the seam allowances line up pressed under, the pressed exactly, so the collar and edge should now sit on top the front opening form a of the stitching you have just continuous line. Pin. (See Pic done. Pin and top stitch. H.) Stitch approximately just (See Pic M.) 5cm of the seam just at each Now top stitch the rest of the CF edge. (See Pic I.) Is this collar, aligning the stitching sitting neatly and flat? (See with the stitching around the Pic J.) If not, just unpick and front opening. (See Pic N.) re-stitch. If it is sitting flat, Enjoy making your dress – it’s check both front edges match a really quick, easy make! and then pin the remaining Until next month, collar in place. (See Pic K.) The neck edge on this pattern lison does need stretching to get the collar to fit, but this is what makes the collar stand. Stitch. Trim the shirt side of the seam. (See Pic L.) Notch and clip as required. Press the seam allowance into the collar, using a tailor’s ham if you have one. With the collar facing, where the seam allowance has already been 55

PATTERN PICKS Take it to the max ranSguepe4r-s3i0ze! We think this stunning summer maxi dress oozes sophistication. The halterneck with a gathered front creates effortless elegance whilst giving us the chance to feel the sunshine on our shoulders. Wear it without the waist tie for a contemporary trapeze silhouette, or add the tie to cinch in the waist. Free PDF templates available now in sizes 4-30 from www.craftworld.com Summer DOWNLOADS Extend your summer wardrobe with our pick of free downloadable Love Sewing patterns, perfect for sunny days Float on by Elegant and floaty, we think this sundress is perfect for summer days or as eye-catching eveningwear. Style it with a t-shirt when the weather cools, or wear it alone on warmer days. Choose how high to take the side-split and swish your way through summer and beyond. Download your free templates in sizes 6-18 from www.craftworld.com Beautifully swishy and floaty Use the instructions in Love Sewing 108 to sew this sunny dress Download your free copy of The Complete Sewing Handbook at craftworld.com/cms/cshb 56

The Lucille Easy breezy! dress from Simple Sew Keep cool this summer in the lightweight Fabulous Island Breeze dress. flare This relaxed style maxi dress would work as We love the flattering a poolside coverup cross-over bodice on as well as an this popular Simple Sew everyday dress. pattern. Whether you The waist-tie choose the fit and flare aids an easy fit, half-circle skirt or the and the grown-on fitted pencil skirt, sleeves help to make you’ll have a stylish this a quick and easy and comfortable sew. Minimal seam jersey dress to wear lines mean you can for any occasion. use your biggest and Free PDF templates boldest print! available now Free PDF templates in sizes 8-20 available now in from www. sizes 6-20 from craftworld.com, www.craftworld.com Printed pattern in sizes 8-20, £12.49 A quick and from www.craftstash.co.uk easy dress with impact In bloom Summer strides Be prepared for when Into the blue the day cools with this drapey cover-up. With its Make a statement with neat shawl collar, flutter bright and bold trousers sleeves and soft gathers this summer. These classic at the back neck, its fun fitted trousers can also be and feminine, as well as a year-round staple piece practical. Sew it up in in your wardrobe. Sew your favourite drapey up a pair in cotton sateen print fabric for a statement for added comfort, or go piece, or use your most- loved plain drapey fabric for brocade or jacquard for a versatile garment for head-turning evening trousers. We think this is a that you can wear pattern you can reach for again and again. again and again to suit PDF templates available any occasion. now in sizes 1-8 from www.craftworld.com Free PDF templates available now in sizes 8-16 Perfect for from www.craftworld.com summer evenings 57 Cover up in style It’s jam-packed with sewing tips, inspiration and patterns to inspire you.

We love HOME Scrap-busting PEG BAG This handy peg bag is a great way to use up scraps and old coat hangers to hang your washing out in style! Project RUTH BROWN www.grinlowsews.com Shopping list Spring Garden Fat Quarter bundle, £19.99 from www.lovecrafts.com 58

ABCD E F GH MATERIALS & TOOLS: upper front outer WST and the hanger, fold the strip RST ABOUT baste together around the top and sew along the long edge RUTH BROWN • 0.25m woven fabric such as and bottom edges within the and one short edge. Use a quilting cotton seam allowance. loop turner to turn right side Ruth designs easy-to-sew 3 Place back lining and back out. Press. Turn unfinished end patterns for accessories and • 0.25m cotton for lining (optional) outer WST and baste edges. 1cm inside the loop and press homewares. Read more about • 0.25m interfacing (optional) 4 On the upper front, bind again. Slip stitch or top stitch • co-ordinating thread the curved opening and to close and finish. (See Pic H.) her sewing journey • small coat hanger – we used an the top edge as shown. at www.grinlowstudio.com (See pics A & B.) old kids’ hanger 5 On the back, pin bias • 30cm of 1” bias binding binding to the small flat • Templates downloaded from edge at the top of the back, encasing the raw edge. Stitch www.craftworld.com/cms/ in place. (See Pic C.) love-sewing 6 Sandwich the upper front between the lower front outer NOTES: and lower front lining so that the upper front outer and Use 1cm seam allowance (included) lower front outer are facing unless otherwise stated RST, and the lower front lining Finished size approximately and upper front lining are 29.5x32cm at widest points facing RST. Pin all the way Instructions are for lined and across and stitch. (See Pic D.) interfaced version 7 Press both sides and, outer uppermost, top stitch near CUTTING seam and again 1⁄4” out. (See pics E & F.) From outer fabric cut: 8 With outers facing RST, • 1 lower front (piece 1) aligning edges of bias binding • 1 upper front (piece 2) at the top, sew assembled • 1 back (piece 3) front to back. • 1 strip for the tie, 30x7cm 9 Trim corners and overlock • raw edges, or finish on From lining fabric cut: machine in preferred way. • 1 lower front (piece 1) (See Pic G.) • 1 upper front (piece 2)  Turn the right way out, push • 1 back (piece 3) out corners and press. Insert • coat hanger into bag, inserting From interfacing (optional) cut: metal hanger through the hole • 1 lower front (piece 1) at the top. • 1 upper front (piece 2)  To make the tie for around • 1 back (piece 3) HOW TO MAKE 1 Interface (if using) WS of each lining piece. 2 Place upper front lining and 59

With Elisalex Dressmaking DILEMMAS ABOUT ELISALEX Elisalex de Castro Peake has Elisalex is the Head of Design and the answers to your co-founder of By Hand London, an dressmaking dilemmas independent pattern company. It produces gorgeously designed, high-quality patterns that are available as PDF downloads through the site www.byhandlondon.com 60

Top tip! Get a custom croquis made at www.mybodymodel.com Sketch your sewing designs directly onto your croquis hard to take a systematic approach to secretly snap pictures of interesting my sewing – only buying fabric with design details I see when I’m out and a specific project in mind, seeing said about. From there, I love making lists and project through to the end before using the croquis’ in our Sewing Planner thinking about the next. On any given day (available at www.byhandlondon.com) my mind is constantly whirring with ideas to draw mini seasonal sewing collections, for all the things I want to make. If only complete with little fabric swatches. I’m it were as quick and easy as 30-second aware that I may not actually get around TikTok videos would have you believe! I to making all the garments in my lists buy fabric as and when I see something and drawings, but even just the process I love, even if I have no idea what I will of getting it all down on paper feels like make from it, and as a result, I also have a relief! Plus, it helps me hone my plans an overwhelmingly overgrown stash. and visualise my ideas, which in turn Combine a large selection of fabrics, helps me to feel calmer, more inspired endless ideas of what to make and a (in a less frantic way!), and not quite so notoriously indecisive brain, and you’re overwhelmed by all the ideas floating getting a glimpse into the inspiration around my head! paralysis I often experience! I’ll usually end up making only one or For those of us who two things from can’t sew as fast as my lists and sketches, we dream, the first but I know that I can For those of us whostep is acceptance! always come back to them for We’re not going to be E lisalex here, back with another able to change our inspiration in the helping of your dressmaking approach to sewing, can’t sew as fast as future, like an ideas dilemmas! I’ve been loving reading at least not overnight, we dream, the first savings account! all the things you’re struggling with, so understanding and step is acceptance! mostly because it’s so reassuring to know accepting how our “How do I work that we all struggle, no matter where we are in our sewing journey. Keep ‘em brains work at least out if a pattern coming! You can email your dressmaking dilemmas directly to me elisalex@ takes the edge off the will suit me?”  byhandlondon.com, or watch out for our prompts on Instagram byhandlondon!  frustration we can “I can’t sew as fast as I think often feel. Knowing When I asked what up ideas & now I have stash overwhelm!” – sewslowsarah  that I’m constantly thinking up ideas and your dressmaking dilemmas were on I’m right there with you, Sarah! I find it finding inspiration all around me, I keep Instagram, this was the most asked my notebook and pen with me so that I question. Figuring out whether or not a can quickly and easily sketch any designs pattern will suit us is something we all that come to me in the moment, so I battle with, especially when we’re starting don’t forget them later. If I don’t have out. It can be so easy to get swept up my notebook with me, I can still make in the frenzy of a new pattern release, a rudimentary sketch on my phone or or a cult design that everyone seems to 61

be loving, and end up with something underwhelming at best, disappointing, unfinished and unworn at worst. The key to solving this dilemma is to cultivate a really strong sense of personal style, and the good news is that there are loads of really great and fun resources out there to help us do this! Tried and tested, and sewing-specific is The Wardrobe Architect by Seamwork. Available for free on their blog, the process is broken down into manageable modules, with loads of fun exercises, downloads and activities to help you nail down your style and colour palette and plan your makes around that. Other options include the books The Curated Closet by Anuschka Rees and Project 333 by Courtney Carver. And finally, I strongly recommend making Get sewing plans out of yourself a croquis – that’s an outline of your head and onto paper your body, or a figurine template that is close to your body shape, that you can sketch your sewing ideas directly on. It really helps to get a visual as to how a particular style might look on your shape, as opposed to the standardised, generic drawings on most sewing patterns. You can get a custom croquis made when you input all your measurements at www.mybodymodel.com, or you can choose from six different body shapes in the BHL PDF Sewing Planner. “I don’t really “get” interfacing – do I Have a little stash really need it? How do I choose the of basic interfacings right one?” Jess, London main fabric. You can get woven or lightweight simply won’t be strong The short answer here is, if the pattern non-woven interfacing, but I would enough to make a difference. recommends it, then yes you probably always go for woven if you can, as it need it! When you’re working with better mimics the weave and handle of It’s a really good idea to have a little interfacing for the first time, or even if woven fabric. Non-woven interfacing stash of basic interfacings, so you’re you’re just a bit unsure, the best plan of can end up feeling really papery, stiff and not caught short when starting a action is to go ahead and use it anyway, crispy to me, which I really don’t like! new project! Interfacing is usually just as per the pattern’s instructions and see available in white or black, so even just how the results feel. Like most things, As a general rule of thumb, choose having two metres of each colour of a the more you work with interfacing, the interfacing of a similar weight to the lightweight woven fusible interfacing more you’ll get an understanding as to fabric you’re working with. If you’re and a medium weight woven fusible how it works, when it’s really necessary making a floaty dress and the interfacing will mean that you’ll have and when you can cut corners and skip neckline facing calls for interfacing, plenty to choose from for most it altogether!  look for interfacing that is as lightweight occasions. Also, you’ll be able to and floaty as your main fabric. Anything match up which weight interfacing In a nutshell, interfacing is a layer of heavier would feel too stiff and look feels best for the fabric you’re specialist fabric that reinforces or weird. Similarly, if you’re making a coat, working with. For the more specialist supports areas that need a little more opt for a heavier, sturdier interfacing interfacings like coating, always go to structure, such as collars, facings and that will support your heavier coating a reputable haberdashery and don’t be waistbands. ‘Fusible’ interfacing means fabric. An interfacing that is too afraid to get in touch to ask advice! that it can stick it into place with a heat- activated adhesive on one side – all you have to do is iron it directly onto your 62

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We love STYLE Wrapped with LOVE DRESS Sew a sophisticated wrap dress for special occasions this summer Project JULIA CLARIDGE www.bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk 64

ABC D EFGH LAYPLAN: MATERIALS & TOOLS: edges. (See Pic C.) around the neck edge starting 4 With RST, pin the front and from the waist edge. The • (sizes 8-14) 2.20x1.45m-wide back together at the side tie belt will be sandwiched light- to medium-weight seams. On the right-hand side between the dress and woven fabric (as worn), stitch to 5cm above binding. Match the raw edges, the waist seam, on the other pin in the first crease line • (sizes 16-20) 2.50x1.45m- side stitch the whole seam. of the binding. Stitch in this wide light- to medium-weight Neaten raw edges individually. crease line. (See Pic H.) woven fabric Press the seams open. Top 9 Turn the binding to the stitch around the opening inside along the seam line. If • 2m bias binding on the right-hand side. your binding is quite wide, you (See Pic D.) may need to double turn it so NOTES: 5 With RST, stitch each belt tie the finished width is around piece along the long edge and 1cm. Stitch the binding close Use a 1.5cm seam allowance one short edge. Trim to the inside edge. throughout unless stated otherwise the seam, clip corners and  With RST, pin a piece turn to the right side. Press. of binding to the edge of CUTTING: (See Pic E.) each sleeve with raw edges 6 With RST, stitch the front matched. Stitch in the first • 1 pair of front bodice pieces skirt to the back skirt at the crease of the binding. Stitch • 1 back on fold side seams. Neaten raw edges. two rows of long ease • 1 pair of front skirts Neaten the raw edges at the stitches over the sleeve • 1 back skirt on fold centre fronts. (See Pic F.) head. (See Pic I.) • 1 pair of sleeves 7 With RST, pin the shorter tie  With RST, stitch the sleeve belt piece to the right-hand underarm on each sleeve and HOW TO MAKE side (as worn) lower angled neaten raw edges. (See Pic J.) edge of the front bodice. Pin  With RST, pin the sleeve into 1 Following the markings on the longer belt in the same the armhole, gently easing the the pattern, make the darts in position on the left-hand side ease stitches so that the sleeve the front bodice pieces. (as worn). Machine tack in fits. Stitch and neaten raw (See Pic A.) place. (See Pic G.) edges. (See Pic K.) 2 Following the markings on 8 With RST, pin the binding  With RST and side seams the pattern, make the darts in the back bodice piece. (See Pic B.) 3 With RST, stitch the front and back together at the shoulder seams. Neaten raw GARMENT MEASUREMENTS (IN CM) 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 Bust 91 96 101 10 111 116 121 Waist 65 70 75 80 85 90 95 Length from under waistband to hem 76 76 76 76 76 76 76 65

matched, stitch the skirt to the I J K bodice waist edge. The front skirt will extend beyond the edge of the bodice. (See Pic L.)  Turn the extended front facing back, sandwiching the bodice between this and the skirt. Stitch from the edge of the facing to the edge of the bodice, taking care not to catch the ties in this line L M N of stitching. (See Pic M.) Turn through to the right side, press the facing in line with the edge of the front bodice.  Turn and press the binding at the sleeve edge. Stitch close to the inner edge. (See Pic N.)  Fold the facing back on itself again at the lower edge of the skirt, stitch 1.5cm above the hem edge. Trim and turn to the right side. Neaten the raw hem edge. Press a single turned hem and stitch to complete. ABOUT BOBBINS & BUTTONS Bobbins & Buttons is a hub of sewing based in the East Midlands, offering own-brand patterns, fabric and workshops. Julia designs a range of sewing patterns for all the family. Styles are versatile, adaptable and easy to make. A collection of fabric that suits the sewing patterns is available. Julia offers sewing classes that are flexible to your skill level and geared towards what you would like to learn. For more information visit Julia’s website www.bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk 66

GIVEAWAYS WIN A SEW-IT-YOURSELF KIT FROM ACHOOPACHOO One lucky Love Sewing reader will receive this fabulous Sew-It-Yourself kit, containing everything you need to make these stylish Merchant and Mills dungarees AchooPachoo Sew-it-yourself kits dungarees kit giveaway (UK sizes 6-18 walks in the park or relaxing afternoons are designed for you to start your and 18-28), you will find beautiful cotton with friends. See the full range of journey to creating your own unique denim fabric, lining, thread, contrasting Achoopachoo sewing kits at capsule wardrobe. If you are a sewist thread for topstitching, pattern with www.achoopachoofabrics.com wanting to develop your own style in a instructions, brass buckles and sliders, sustainable way, but often find it hard to buttons, pins, chalk and label. You will Enter this fabulous giveaway now know where to start, these kits are for have everything you need to create for the chance to win this exciting you. Within this traditional easy-fitting this gorgeous outfit, perfect for long sewing kit. HOW TO ENTER For a chance to win this prize, enter your details at www.craftworld.com/cms/love-sewing We promise we’ll always keep your data safe and will never share it with or sell it to other companies for marketing purposes. Our full privacy policy is available at www.practicalpublishing.co.uk/privacy Closing date 15th September 2022. The competition is operated by Practical Publishing International Ltd. For full terms and conditions, see www.practicalpublishing.co.uk/competitions 67

ABOUT THRIFTY CLAIRE-LOUISE STITCHER Claire-Louise is an author, pattern designer, teacher and costumier. Claire-Louise Hardie reveals how to alter We recommend her online course lined sleeves in a coat or jacket www.learntosewwithapro.com/ ultimate-beginners Claire-Louise’s book, The Great British Sewing Bee: Fashion With Fabric, accompanied the third series of the show and is priced at £20 from www.quadrille.co.uk Join Claire-Louise’s monthly sewing club and learn how to take your sewing to the next level with expert tips, tricks and techniques to try. Visit www.thethriftystitcher.co.uk to find out more 68

TOOLS B YOU’LL NEED: A 3 Tailors chalk or wax tailors C D chalk that can be brushed or F ironed off. I sometimes use a sewing however, so if that’s something you dislike then this method isn’t for you. light HB pencil to mark over the Outer sleeve Unpick the stitching that is holding the interfacing on the inside lining to the sleeve hem. Make a note of 3 A measuring tape or seam the distance from the bottom of the sleeve to the edge of the lining e.g. 2cm. measuring guide Tuck the lining up inside the sleeve to 3 A sleeve board. Whilst it is start work on the hem of the sleeve itself. (See Pic B.) possible to get a decent Unpick the stitching that holds the sleeve hem itself in place and fold the hem flat. result pressing a sleeve cuff Make a note of the depth of the original hem (e.g. 4.5cm). without one, it’s very fiddly You may need to add more interfacing to the hem allowance when shortening. and will slow you down. The The interfacing should be the depth of the hem allowance x2, this gives the hem sleeve board makes the whole some weight and adds longevity to the edges of outerwear. In my example photo, process more efficient too I will be cutting off half the interfacing, so 3 Hand sewing needle and good therefore need to add it back above the existing top edge. (See Pic C.) quality all sew polyester thread Measure and mark a line above the 3 Pins and scissors existing cut edge that is the amount to be 3 An iron shortened, (e.g. 3cm in my example) this E Have you ever bought or sewn a out the required length, placing a pin on fabulous coat or jacket only to find the new folded edge so you can measure that the sleeves are annoyingly the amount to be shortened. (See Pic A.) long, but you felt too daunted by the lining to have a go at altering them? Rarely would I shorten a lined sleeve Fear not, you’re not alone! The prospect by turning the existing hem up into of opening up a fully lined sleeve to make the wrong side of the sleeve and then adjustments is something many of my hand-sewing in place to the lining. This students fear and avoid. If I’m honest, as a method is speedy, and I have done this for bespoke tailor, the fully bagged out sleeve costumes when they wouldn’t be seen lining method had me scratching my close up. However, it creates a very bulky head for a long time too. In this tutorial, hem as you’re doubling up all the I’m going to focus on a simple lined coat seam allowances. sleeve, i.e. not one with a vented cuff. I usually use one of two methods – The A sleeve board will make the process hand sewn or 'Bespoke' Method, where quicker and easier. Prym Sleeve Ironing I unpick the lining from the hem at the Board, £16.40 www.empressmills.co.uk cuff, or the 'production/factory' method, where I adjust the hem from inside the WORKING OUT HOW MUCH OF lining in the same way as the original AN ADJUSTMENT IS REQUIRED factory 'Bagging Out' method. For this Try the coat/jacket on and mark where tutorial I’m sharing the easier bespoke you’d like the sleeve to sit. You need to or hand set option. ensure this is done with a slightly bent arm, otherwise the sleeve will be too The hand sewn or bespoke method short when you’re out and about and This method is fairly self-explanatory moving. Coats and jackets are outerwear, and easy to master. It does involve hand so they are meant to keep you warm and be worn over other layers, and therefore need to be a little longer. You might like to fold the existing hem inside to work 69

is your new cutting line. Trim off. (See G H Pic D.) J Press the bottom of the sleeve flat I to remove the original hemline. It’s WIN! sometimes useful to use a damp press Step out in style in M8013 cloth to remove stubborn fold-lines. available in sizes XS- XXL We have Prym mini-iron & sleeve Resecure the seamlines you have cut over. for £11.50 www.sewdirect.com board sets from the lovely team at This means your sleeve won’t start to Empress Mills for 2 lucky readers. unravel as you’re altering them. If your Visit www.craftworld.com to enter. sleeve is tapered, then don’t resecure the seams, as you will want to open them up a little to allow the new hem to sit flat. Add some new interfacing if required, matching the weight of the original interfacing. If you don’t have anything similar, then a couple of layers of a lightweight interfacing is better than a crispy “papery” feeling medium/ heavyweight version. (See Pic E.) Fold the new hem up into the wrong side of the sleeve. This will be the same depth as the original hem e.g. 4.5cm. Press into place, then pin and repeat on the opposite sleeve. (See Pic F.) Using a loose herringbone stitch hand sew the hem in place, ensuring stitches are not visible from the outside. (See Pic G.) Lining Tuck the sleeve out of the way and trim off the amount to be shortened from the bottom edge of the sleeve lining. In my photo example I used the piece I had trimmed from the sleeve as a guide, rather than measuring and drawing on a cutting line. This is because lining can be slippery to mark. (See Pic H.) Trimming lining Fold up the same hem allowance as was originally used, in my example this was a half inch. Don’t press in place yet. Slide the lining over the sleeve, ensuring seams match up and you haven’t twisted the lining. Place the new folded edge at the same distance from at the sleeve originally, e.g. 2cm. Use a slip stitch or whip stitch to anchor the lining to the sleeve hem allowance. Make sure to use small stitches that don’t go through to the outside of the jacket. (See Pic I). Once the lining is stitched in place, you can roll it down a little to cover the stitching and then press the lining. This is possible because the lining is cut longer than the sleeve, to allow ease in the lining. It also creates a really clean finish inside. (See Pic J.) 70

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We love STYLE Sew-any-size JERSEY SKIRT Sew a stylish skirt that’s super quick & easy – you don’t even need a paper pattern! Project JULIA CLARIDGE www.bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk Shopping list Mini leopard spots jersey in teal, £12 per metre www.bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk 72

ABC D EFGH CUTTING DIAGRAM CUTTING: 8cm added. If you wanted the HOW TO MAKE skirt to finish 90cm in length, MATERIALS & TOOLS: • 1 pair of front bodice pieces your rectangle would measure  With RST, pin and stitch the • 1 back on fold 51.5x92.5cm. front and back together at the • Cotton jersey – quantity will • 1 pair of front skirts 6 Cut two rectangles this size. side seams. Stop at the point depend on skirt size. • 1 back skirt on fold To shape the waist, mark a you have marked for the side • 1 pair of sleeves point 1.5cm in from the edge split on one of the side seams. • 25mm elastic for the waistband of the rectangle and draw a (See Pic A.) PREPARATION curve tapering to nothing at  With RST, pin and stitch the NOTES: approximately 15cm down short ends of the waistband 1 Measure your hips the side. Fold the rectangle together. (See Pic B.) All seam allowances are 1.5cm unless and waist. in half so you can cut both  Fold the waistband, with stated otherwise 2 Measure how long from the edges off equally. (See cutting wrong sides together and waist down you would like the diagram). Do the same with raw edges matched. Press. skirt to finish. the other rectangle. On one (See Pic C.) 3 Add 8cm to whichever is of the rectangles, mark a point  With RST and raw edges the wider measurement of at the centre 2cm down from matched, pin the folded your waist or hips. the edge. Keep the rectangle waistband to the waist edge. 4 Add 2.5cm to the length you folded down the centre. Draw The seam can be positioned at would like the skirt to finish. a gentle curve from this 2cm the centre back or in line with 5 Draw a rectangle onto your point at the centre to the a side seam. Stitch, leaving an fabric (or a piece of paper if top of the side seam. This will opening for the elastic to be you want to create a paper be the front skirt piece. inserted. (See Pic D.) pattern first). The rectangle 7 Measure where you would  Allowing a few centimetres should measure half the hip/ like the side split to finish and extra for overlapping, cut waist measurement (with the mark this point on one of the a piece of elastic that feels additional 8cm added) by side seams. comfortable around your the length (with the added 8 Measure the upper front waist. Attach a safety pin to 2.5cm). For example, for a and back waist edges and one end of the elastic and hip measuring 95cm and a reduce by 3cm. Cut a insert it in the waistband gap. waist measuring 70cm, the rectangle this length by 9cm Thread the elastic around total measurement would be for the waistband. the waistband. Stitch elastic 103cm, which is the hip (the together. Let the elastic widest measurement) with the GARMENT MEASUREMENTS (IN CM) 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 Bust 91 96 101 10 111 116 121 Waist 65 70 75 80 85 90 95 Length from under waistband to hem 76 76 76 76 76 76 76 73

Top tip! Check the elastic is not twisted in the channel before lapping one end of the elastic over the other recede into the channel and stitch the gap in the waistband closed. (See pics E & F.)  Press the side split in line with the seam allowance. Turn and press a 1.5cm single turned hem at the lower edge. Turn the split seam RST at the lower edge, stitch 1.5cm above the bottom edge to form a neat corner when turned to the right side. Stitch around the hem and around the split to complete. (See pics G & H.) ABOUT BOBBINS & BUTTONS Bobbins & Buttons is a hub of sewing based in the East Midlands, offering own- brand patterns, fabric and workshops. Julia designs a range of sewing patterns for all the family. Styles are versatile, adaptable and easy to make. A collection of fabric that suits the sewing patterns is available. Julia offers sewing classes that are flexible to your skill level and geared towards what you would like to learn. For more information visit Julia’s website www.bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk 74

SHOP LOCAL DIRECTORY ABERDEENSHIRE BRADFORD BRISTOL BRISTOL Facebook and Instagram: 16 WHITEHOUSE STREET, BEDMINSTER, bombaystores_fabrics BRISTOL, BS3 4AY Youtube: Bombay Stores Fabrics We are a 53 year old brand specialising in batiks, silks, cotton and other wide ranges of fabrics and haberdashery! Bombay Buildings, Shearbridge Road, Bradford, West Yorkshire, BD7 1NX Tel: 01274 729993 www.bombaystoresfabrics.co.uk BURTON UPON TRENT CAMBRIDGE CHESHIRE CUMBRIA Debby's Patch Haberdashery Sew Knit Craft is a friendly, family run We stock lots of wonderful fabrics for COLOURS OF craft shop in the centre of Cambridge. crafting, dressmaking, soft furnishings, THE RAINBOW With Online shop A must visit for all sewing enthusiasts, new Sewing Machines upholstry FABRIC Fabric, Threads, Yarn Also a fabulous selection of buttons, HABERDASHERYGIFTS starters and professionals Knitting & Crochet Tools Stockists of Simplicity, Prym, Clover, trims, and haberdashery Quilting, Dressmaking, Hemline, Trimits, Mettler, Quilt as you go, Haberdashery Why not pay us a visit? We're at Craft Fabrics, all new to Carlisle! Tilda, Bonfanti, Mouline, Mrs H, a wide Craft Room Furniture 3-7 Tatton Road, Sale, M33 7EB The crafting hub for Cambridge Tel 01228 597351 range of fabrics. 58 King Street, Cambridge, CB1 1LN T: 07540 634351 129 Denton Street, open Tuesday ‚Äì Saturday 10 - 4 E: [email protected] Carlisle CA2 5EN Plenty of parking, Cafe and other shops in 01223 350 691 Facebook: @BlueButtonDesigns www.sewknitcraftltd.com DERBYSHIRE the courtyard CUMBRIA Unit 5, Craythorne farm, Craythorne road, Stretton, Burton upon Trent, DE13 0AZ 07917728701 www.debbyspatch.co.uk CUMBRIA CUMBRIA JUST SEW Stockists of dressmaking, quilting and bag Dollys Fabric Poets Walk, Penrith, Cumbria, making fabrics, a wide range haberdashery 34 malthouse Lane, Nether CA11 7HJ and independent sewing patterns Heage, Derbyshire, DE56 2AS Tel: 01768 866791 07807019839 2 Market Street, Ulverston, • A real aladdin’s cave of fabric just Cumbria, LA12 7AY Welcome to Dollys Fabric based in Nether waiting to be made into something Heage. Small but bursting with gorgeous 07496 506421 fabrics from Rose & Hubble, John Louden, gorgeous! Craft Cotton Company, Cotton Poplins, We stock a wide range of patchwork https://thelakesfabricstore.co.uk/ Jersey, Viscose, Cuddle Fleece. I stock a large range of Style Arc Patterns, and dress fabrics as well as along with buttons, charms, and all your haberdashery, patterns and threads. sewing needs. www.justsewpenrith.co.uk Come and browse or order online with free delivery on orders over £35.00 DORSET DORSET DUMFRIES EAST SUSSEX Large selection of Haberdashery and Sewing School haberdashery 180 Irish Street, Dumfries, DG1 2NJ Fabrics, yarns, 01387250867 07881361978 embroidery & [email protected] tapestry threads, www.romys-sewing.co.uk Sewing, knitting & crochet patterns. Shop selling Fabrics, Patterns, Friendly & sound advice Haberdashery 32A Southbourne Grove, Southbourne, Sewing classes/workshops starting soon. Bournemouth, Dorset, BH6 3RA 01202 428612 www.haberdasherdo.co.uk 75

SHOP LOCAL DIRECTORY EAST YORKSHIRE GLASGOW GLOUCESTERSHIRE GLOUCESTERSHIRE Sewing supplies & fabrics all under HALIFAX Fabric, Wools and Haberdashery WWeesstt EEnndd SSeewwiinngg CCeennttrreeLLttdd one roof! North Bar Fabrics in Cherry Buttons, Ribbons and Patterns Weekly Make Space Group mssOaeSOJeSJtlaelflaceflifinwnmfhwnneeogogriraionimnimntqnrqggcgegueuehM,Ma,vaaaJoJlelaaiiuuuturtnccyyknknehhbiiiivFF,i,qiqnneeBaaBuueeanmmeeeesstrrboopnnFFfferruueaearooaissmttmcmmttteMMeepiilsl..£y£yaraAAio1n1ncrr00lnluueuull00nsfonfotaa..huouBcBBcBernrtuteueuPuPisrtsnrrrrnhirenineitniciereicnerneessersasasnoss,os,efft. Burton is one of the leading fabric 39 Parsonage Street Demonstratiionntesr,naeftte. r sales help, stockists in the area. Visit our store Dursley, Glos, GL11 5RG today and you will find exactly what www.inchesfabrics.co.uk disdmcwwiosaDoucokornerekkutmsssonh,hoftposonD,lppsupotsssrlm,,uaStttsrereiaaosSriitnvnneisciriicnn,veSaggicef,,aetwppenaaradinnrrstgtdRaeeleMeRxxpscecaahphhciareahasnilnirpngtsg,oeeetsoa. ny any make o1f1DHoemnreiesttitcaSSetwreientg Machines. you are looking for. HAMPSHIRE 11iwiwnHnfwfewoonw@w@ri..wewww00teeetCe11GaGs2ss2shttt4t4LLSeeeee5522tnlnnntr00deedd22den4s4ss44setehee44AA,wwwaw00CAAmii2i2ihnnnn55eggggl.t...cccceoooon....huuuuakkkkm The Courtyard, Burton Mount, Off Malton Road, Cherry Burton, HERTFORDSHIRE Beverley, HU17 7RA [email protected] Call: 01964 551 955 GREATER MANCHESTER The Fabbadashery BUTTONS AND BOWS PLUS FABRIC Fabulous Fabrics, Beautiful Buttons and Truly Scrumptious You will find a great range of fabrics and an extensive selection Trimmings. Craft Workshops Every Week! of haberdashery and trim, you won’t be disappointed.  [email protected] Sewing and craft classes available www.thefabbadashery.com too in our ‘Making It - Not Wasting It!’ 01422 647574 workshop. Stevenage Indoor Market, Hertfordshire, 10-12 Clare Road, Halifax, HX1 2HX SG1 1EP IPSWICH 07396 499 085 Facebook: Buttons and Bows plus Fabric HERTFORDSHIRE KENT KENT KENT LINCOLNSHIRE MID WALES A little haven for crafters, friendly family run craft shop by the sea. Come to us for all your fabric, and yarn supplies Shop 2, 49 The Strand Walmer, Deal, CT14 7DX Tel: 01304 274740 Email: [email protected] Mon to Sat 9am - 5.30pm www.beecraftybeehappy.co.uk NORFOLK 76

SHOP LOCAL DIRECTORY NORFOLK NORTHUMBERLAND NOTTINGHAMSHIRE SCARBOROUGH Studio Shop, London Road, Learn how to make clothes Newark, NG24 1TN with Carol at Material Moves. inWthoerkfsuhlolypesqaunidppCeodu1rssetsfltoaokresptluadcieo. Sewing & craft lessons, art textile courses, fabric, handmade gifts Online classes available. www.craftybetty.org Gorgeous selection of good quality dress fabrics many Oeko-Tex and Organic Sewing Machines and Overlockers in stock Authorised Husquvarna Viking Dealer. Haberdashery - Indie Patterns - Sewing Books Craft lights - Sewing Baskets and more All available in the Scarborough shop See Online at www.materialmoves.co.uk SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SHEFFIELD Pembertons A friendly fabric shop, An independent, family-run sewing store in Sheffield. based in Inverness and OF STIRLING online, our aim is to help We stock a wide range of fabrics, including Craft Cotton you match beautiful fabrics Company, Kaffe Fassett and Tula Pink, as well as a good We sell and service a wide range of with independent dress- sewing machines plus accessories making patterns, find the range of reasonable priced budget cottons. and parts. We also have a fantastic right haberdashery for your range of dress and craft fabrics and project and increase your We also offer classes in a variety of crafts, from patchwork sell Simplicity & New Look patterns. sewing confidence with our to dressmaking, ceramics to needle felting. kits and classes. Our Haberdashery department has 1a Arundel Road, everything from buttons to bows. The Wee Sheffield, Please ask if you are looking for Fabric Shop S35 2RB something special. www.psmc.co.uk 21 Tomatin Road, 0114 245 5996 01786 462993 Inverness handmadehappyhare@ 21-25 Friars Street, Stirling, FK8 1HA IV2 4UA yahoo.co.uk (01463) 263 007 www.handmadehappyhare.com www.thewee fabricshop.co.uk SOUTH WALES ST AUSTELL STOKE-ON-TRENT J & B Sewing Machine Co Ltd * Workshops & Classes * Coffee mornings * Brother, Bernina, Janome, Baby Lock, Elna, 1 Biddicks Court, Bernette sewing machines * Training Courses * Fabrics * Grace Quilting Machines & Frames * St Austell, PL25 5EW Curlew Close Gripoly Mills Tel: 01726 75385 Queensway Meadows Sloper Road Email: sewandfabric@yahoo. Cardiff CF11 8AA www.jbsewing.comNewport NP19 4SY 02922 402418 co.uk 01633 284646 Find us on Facebook SWANSEA TEWKESBURY Silks & Velvet To advertise please Natural, printed & dyed contact Noune on (over 80 colours) noune.sarkissian Small quantities at wholesale @practicalpublishing.co.uk prices (min. 1/2m) www.beckfordsilk.co.uk 01386 881 507 Nr. Tewkesbury, Glos. GL20 7AU 77

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GIVEAWAYS WINA WAFER 3 LIGHTBOX FROM THE DAYLIGHT COMPANY One lucky Love Sewing reader will receive this incredible lightbox! WORTH £142! We only work with brands we love Lightboxes. Ultra bright, and we’re delighted to be partnering ultra slim and ultra light, this A2 with The Daylight Company for a size lightbox is your must-have tool fantastic giveaway! By only using for tracing on paper or fabric. The the best materials and high-quality adjustable brightness enables you to daylight LEDs, the Daylight Company control the precise amount of light is renowned for its brilliantly crafted on your area of work, while the products and exceptional quality lightbox itself is wafer-thin and won’t of light. get in your way! We’re giving a lucky reader the chance Lightweight and easy to use, bright to win one of their fantastic Wafer 3 daylight LEDs ensure an even brightness from edge to edge, so you can hobby late into the night or early into the morning. Perfect for a variety of uses, including tracing patterns, paper piecing and appliqué, let the Daylight 3 Wafer Lightbox ease the strain on your eyes so you can view threads on dark fabrics and carry out detailed work in comfort. The Wafer 3 lightbox is truly a gamechanger for any sewing enthusiast! HOW TO ENTER For a chance to win this prize, enter your details at www.craftworld.com/cms/love-sewing We promise we’ll always keep your data safe and will never share it with or sell it to other companies for marketing purposes. Our full privacy policy is available at www.practicalpublishing.co.uk/privacy Closing date 15th September 2022. The competition is operated by Practical Publishing International Ltd. For full terms and conditions, see www.practicalpublishing.co.uk/competitions 79

Next month in Sizes T H E U K ’ S N O.1 S E W I N G M A G A Z I N E 6-26 2 TREATS FOR YOU worth over £20 4-IN-1 Jersey Girl Dress Shaped hemline dress McCall’s 8256 3-in-1 gathered top Inspiring articles, projects and guides: P Learn how to make full tummy adjustments P Master gathers in a binding P Explore weaving history with Sewing Bee Raph P Get the lowdown on pattern cutting & design P Win tickets to the Dressmakers Ball P Ideas for sewing garments on the bias P Quick-make bags & gifts to sew tonight Plus much more! 80

ISSUE 111 ON SALE 25TH AUGUST PUMP UP THE VOLUME! Sizes XS - XXL Gorgeous gathers! DRAFT YOUR OWN SERENA SKIRT Naenveirssmuei!ss INCREDIBLE M8256 PATTERN HACK! See page 30 for our subscriber offer! P Expert guidance from Amy Scarr P Dressmaking advice from Elisalex de Castro Peake P Couture masterclass with Alison Smith MBE P Top techniques from Claire-Louise Hardie Contents and on-sale date subject to change. Some treats not available in all territories 81

NThAiMs mEoDntCh,L1O'mTmHaIkNinGg TAIKA BLOUSE DRESS Sally shares her take on this lightly fitted blouse dress. See more of Sally’s makes at secretlifeofaseamstress on www.minerva.com Iloved this pattern as soon as it was released I also fell between three different sizes in by Named a few months ago and couldn’t the pattern too. Since there are different wait to sew it up. The Taika Blouse Dress pattern pieces for the bust and skirt, I decided is a romantic style, midi-length button-down to cut the bodice according to my bust dress with a v-neckline. The gathered sleeves measurements, and the skirt parts based on have an elastic casing, which gives them a my waist measurements. This actually worked pretty frill at the hem. fine and the dress fits me nicely. I would advise checking the finished garment measurements I thought this lovely floral viscose would work of the pattern before selecting your size, as this perfectly for this dress. I loved the ditsy floral always helps me to make a final decision. print and knew a viscose would work well for drape and swishy-ness. The fabric was a very I pre-washed my fabric as always and it washed pretty pale taupe colour. and pressed very nicely. This dress was a pleasure to sew up and the fabric was lovely I knew I needed to shorten this dress by a few to work with. It pressed nicely and isn’t inches, as the pattern was drafted for a height see-through when worn. I’m so pleased with of 5’ 8”, and I’m only 5’ 3”. The pattern itself how my dress turned out and I can’t wait to doesn’t include lengthen or shorten lines, so make another one – I’m also eyeing up the I decided the best way to make this alteration black colour-way in this fabric too! would be to take four inches off of the bottom of each dress panel pattern piece. This Find Sally on Instagram pattern is made up of four different skirt secret_life_of_a_seamstress panel pattern pieces, so there was a bit of re-drawing to do. THE MINERVA MAKERS Minerva’s online platform is dedicated to makers and sewists and allows you to share your latest projects in a new interactive way. Not only can you post photos and videos of your own makes, but you can also ‘like’ and ‘comment’ on other makers' posts, follow them and find out all about the fabric and pattern supplies they’ve used in their projects. So much inspiration! Discover more at www.minerva.com 82

Allstore Storeaway Watersmeet 2.0 The Allstore Watersmeet is a complete sewing station. Offering plenty of storage included; 33 boxes and 12 trays, for all of your sewing stash and accessories, and also two built in desks and lights to give you plenty of room to create. Furniture is supplied flat packed. Dimensions • Height: 189 cm (74.5”)  • Width:  94 cm (37”) closed / 188 cm (74”) open • Depth: 65 cm  (26”) closed / 160 cm (63”) open with desks down £2,124.15* SAVE with code 15% saving over £300. LS110 (Normally £2,499) *including free flat packed delivery Code expires 30/09/2022 @Storage4Crafts @Storage4Crafts storage4crafts Visit: Storage4Crafts.com Call: 0800 048 8606 www.lovesewingmag.co.uk 8

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