RMF-NZToday RV Lifestyle Vol 5

Custom-built Platinum Jayco Silverline Tribute Compact 680 Classic BE IN TO Mobility RV caravans REVIEWS + WIN LION PORTABLE FRIDGE/FREEZER 40L PROFILES VALUED AT $1299 SEE PAGE 62 VOLUME INC GST Walk & Cycle 5 STEWART ISLAND JULY-AUG UNDER A GLOWING SKY 2020 Hiking The Rakiura Track $9.95 HAURAKI RAIL TRAIL LAKESIDE TAUPŌ TRAILS Lifestyle & Travel WEST COAST WHITE-BAITING WITH ALLAN DICK QUEENSTOWN FROM SKI SLOPES TO PLAYTIME ADVENTURES BANKS PENINSULA DIAMOND HARBOUR WIN AN INTERISLANDER VOUCHER Plus WITH CASPAR'S CAPERS MARKET PLACE FOR SALES 05 WIN RV READS TRADING AS MAGAZINE SOLUTIONS REVIEWS AND RV PROFILES $9.95 INC GST 9 771463 073597

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NZMCA PROMOTION A WIN/WIN FOR MEMBERS AND LOCAL ECONOMIES The NZMCA’s upcoming Spring promotion is going to be a win/win for This Spring the NZMCA begins its campaign to ‘drive’ its 95,000 members to the Association’s 95,000 members and the 56 Motorhome Friendly Motorhome Friendly towns like Oamaru, Te Kuiti, and Waihi. towns around New Zealand. For members – many of whom have been itching to get back on the road after we’ve led the charge to ensure that rural and provincial New Zealand got months in lockdown – the promotion not only guarantees a warm welcome its fair share of tourist dollars. but also offers great savings on hundreds of discounts, available exclusively to “So, come Spring, we’re ‘going hard’ to once again bring responsible members. Motorhome Tourists in Certified Self-Contained vehicles to the Plus, members are in to win more than $20,000 dollars’ worth of prizes in The Motorhome Friendly towns.” Great Kiwi Road trip competition which will focus exclusively on Motorhome To join the NZMCA or for more information on the multiple benefits Friendly destinations and can save good money when they stop and stay in the Association offers its members, check out www.nzmca.org.nz or CampSaver camp sites. call 09 298 5466 For the Motorhome Friendly towns - many of which are rural and provincial communities - the promotion is designed to send a stream of responsible motorhome tourists to their doors to help kickstart their local economies in the aftermath of the Covid-19 lockdown. The Association’s multi-pronged, campaign that it’s funding (at no cost to the participating towns) will be driven by a special Motorhome Friendly magazine which is to be distributed to members at the end of July. Other aspects of the NZMCA’s promotion will include : • Expanded promotion of Motorhome Friendly Motorhome Friendly towns through its member magazine, website and regular member eNewsletters; • Introduction of a new NZMCA App that links directly to Motorhome Friendly destinations; • A renewed focus on the organisation’s Events program in Motorhome Friendly towns – drawing a line in the sand to give Event organisers the confidence to commit to setting a date for their next event; and • Supporting the campgrounds in Motorhome Friendly areas with an expanded CampSaver program. NZMCA CEO Bruce Lochore says the Association is ideally placed to lead such an initiative; because ‘while much of the tourism industry is going to be playing catch-up with domestic tourism, it’s our area of expertise’. “When all the focus was on international tourists in the big-name destinations, New Zealand Motor Caravan Association | 09 298 5466 | mhftowns.com | nzmca.org.nz

Destinations – Lifestyle CONTENTS 6 Rock’n’Robyn Chronicles – Breaking out of ‘lockdown’ to Sandspit and on the road again VOLUME 5 July-August 2020 20 Queenstown – check out the world-renowned slopes of Cardrona, Coronet Peak and more 25 Queenstown – perfect winter playground for both young and old 33 West Coast – Allan Dick heads west for whitebait 41 Banks Peninsula – exploring the charms of Diamond Harbour 65 Classics at Ōhope – a classic caravan and car show report Walk and cycle trails 10 Stewart Island – hiking on the Rakiura Trail 46 Lake Taupō – enjoy lakeshore views on the Taupō Trail 54 Hauraki Rail Trail – explore the new southern extension of this cycle-trail network with Gary Patterson RV PETS RV Profiles 78 RV upgrade – how the Clarkes selected their second Auto-Trail Delaware motorhome 83 Profile – Custom-built disability IVECO motorhome aspar’s CaperC s 89 Winter RV storage – ideas and tips for storing the motorhome or caravan 91 Review – Jayco Silverline Touring high-tech caravan WIN $250 95 Review – Auto-Trail Tribute Compact campervan with rear lounge INTERISLANDER FERRY VOUCHER Competitions – Marketplace – Trades SEE p110 62 Subscriber Page – win with BURNSCO 98 Road Kai – enter to win Grow Younger with Great Food COOK BE IN TO 101 Books – latest release books to be won BOOK TO 104 Marketplace – and RV trade directories BE WON WIN 110 Caspar’s Capers – be in to win with Interislander SEE p98 LION PORTABLE FRIDGE/FREEZER 40L Regular VALUED AT $1299 5 Letter to Readers – Editor Robyn Dallimore SEE PAGE 62 70 Seasonal Work – catching up with Sharon and Wayne George 72 AD Today – Allan Dick shares his reflections and memories BOOKS TO BE WON SEE p101 Stewart Island Oban Harbour. ( Stewart Island Tourism)



Custom-built Platinum Jayco Silverline Auto-Trail Tribute Classic BE IN TO EDITOR’S LETTER TO READERS REVIEWS + Mobility RV caravans Vol. PROFILES WIN LION PORTABLE FRIDGE/FREEZER 40L 5 VALUED AT $1299 SEE PAGE 62 NZTODAY / RVLIFESTYLE JULY-AUG 2020 VOLUME STEWART ISLAND RAKIURA HIKE | QUEENSTOWN SKI-PLAY | DIAMOND HARBOUR | WEST COAST WHITEBAIT | LAKE TAUPŌ TRAILS | HAURAKI RT | PLATINUM DISABILITY MH | ŌHOPE CLASSIC CARAVAN | AUTO-TRAIL 5 INC GST Be calm, breathe and carry on TRIBUTE 680 | JAYCO SILVERLINE TOURER | COACHMAN LASER | AUTO-TRAIL DELAWARE Walk & Cycle JULY-AUG 2020 STEWART ISLAND UNDER A GLOWING SKY $9.95 Hiking The Rakiura Track Lifestyle & Travel HAURAKI RAIL TRAIL WEST COAST: WHITE-BAITING LAKESIDE TAUPŌ TRAILS WITH ALLAN DICK QUEENSTOWN: FROM SKI SLOPES T his is our first post-Covid-19-lockdown edition for this title. Thank you to TO PLAYTIME ADVENTURES our subscribers especially and our BANKS PENINSULA: readers generally for your patience and DIAMOND HARBOUR understanding during this period where we had to suspend printing the Vol 5 edition WIN AN INTERISLANDER VOUCHER Plus until this time. We acknowledge our advertisers breathe, had oxygen from the doctor, all sorts WITH CASPAR'S CAPERS MARKET PLACE FOR SALES in this issue, our sincere thanks and gratitude of carry on, so sick it was frightening. We have goes to them from us, and our readers, for had flu shots every year since as I don’t want 05 WIN RV READS supporting us and getting this issue to print. to experience that ever again. This Covid-19 REVIEWS AND RV PROFILES scares the hell out of us – sounds silly to write TRADING AS MAGAZINE SOLUTIONS I share some basic facts on this event in the it but that is how it feels. next pages, as a recap in print really, as this is $9.95 one of the biggest events in our lifetime that has Take care of each other, look for the signs of INC GST had such significant effects around the globe. anxiety and depression in yourself and those around you if their worlds are imploding. As we 9 771463 073597 Right here though I have to talk about anxiety saw from Mike King back on May 10, during and depression as it is important to me. This an interview with Duncan Garner on The AM ISSN 2703-2477 (Print) ISSN 2703-2485 (Online) magazine is a platform Show, depression can be exhibited in many ways RV-NZTODAY Lifestyle - Vol 5 July-August 2020 of inspiration to you as – anger and outbursts, a tidy person becoming readers for travelling and messy around the home, not opening mail or rvmagazine.co.nz exploring our country but talking with people as you normally might, are we do also reflect what is other signs to look out for. In the interview, EDITOR Robyn Dallimore, [email protected] happening in our lives, in ADVERTISING MANAGER Bruce Mountain New Zealand Today as our Mike said 80 per cent of Auckland Office 09 238 2261 title says. people in crisis don’t ask 021 657 090, [email protected] for help. Bruce Mountain uses Lumix photographic equipment I found the week before COVER SHOTS Sandra Wilde Aurora’s from Stewart Island lockdown and the next This was the most real Promotions. Back cover Robyn Dallimore three weeks to be full of and raw interview, one CONTRIBUTORS Tom Clarke, Kathy Catton, Robyn Dalli- anxiety, and my Fit-bit that really showed you the more, Allan Dick, Sharon & Wayne George, Don Jessen, watch confirmed that to face of what depression Jane Dove Juneau, Gary Patterson me. I have charts showing looks like. Every one of SUB-EDITING & PROOFING Thiers Halliwell, Allan Walton my heart rate over those weeks – before and you who reads this and DESIGN Steve Philp – [email protected] during news bulletin updates it was pounding watches Mike and his over 100 sitting down, with the resting rate message will recognise SUBSCRIPTIONS & ADMINISTRATION around 80 most of the time – not good, but at least one person in Subscriptions Manager Laura Atkinson this has been scary shite going down here. their life right now, and it [email protected] I had some big cries at the time as well, and might be a major revelation Phone enquiries: 06 306 6041 have had tears writing this and remembering to you that this is what is going on for that Mon to Fri – Office hours 10am to 3pm how frightening it was – we forget so easily person. Here is a QR code below to scan or SUBSCRIPTION RATES as it happens, we adapt and move on which enter this link https://www.facebook.com/ One year $49.95 (6 issues) is great. I’m now back to an under-60 resting watch/?v=2881780538558240 into your browser. Australia/Pacific $90 (6 issues) rate. I stopped watching every report here and Watch the full video. Thanks to Mike for this Rest of World $150 (6 issues) around the world at the three-week mark, and piece of reality to help us all understand what Digital subscriptions $25 (paperless 6 issues) I don’t care if I miss news updates, even now. is a really difficult but hidden sickness so many What I do religiously is wash, wash, and wash live with. I have put this video on our Facebook RV-NZTODAY LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED BY my hands; the grand kid has to wash hers page as well. before we touch when she comes over; I have We have a new RocknRobyn 5 motorhome RnR Publishing Limited masks in the car and don’t give a damn about coming, to be unveiled on Facebook in the next wearing one when we go out, if I want to. This few weeks. Keep tuned in for the post and find PO Box 220 Martinborough, is our new reality – we have to take personal out what’s happening and who’s going to be responsibility for our own individual health on the road around the North Island – we are Wairarapa 5711 TRADING AS MAGAZINE SOLUTIONS safety. The government can only do a small putting one of our most loved writers on the Main office Ph: 06 306 6030 amount to protect us and we have to do the road. The motorhome is being graphic wrapped rest – always, not just this minute. Especially right now, so you won’t miss us. Auckland Sales office: 09 238 2261 right now with the border fiasco business. The Enjoy the read in this first publication post- Rock and I would both be considered as having Covid-19, it is a pleasure to bring you some Mail: PO Box 220, Martinborough underlying health conditions, and back in 2012 entertainment and enjoyment to create some we suffered a bout of flu that lasted a month joy in your life. 28 Oxford Street, Martinborough, 5711 when breathing was a big problem for us. We Take care of each other. had to sit up for two weeks in lounge chairs to PUBLISHERS Robyn Dallimore Bruce Mountain Bruce Mountain, [email protected] (aka the Rock) Publishers Robyn Dallimore, [email protected] Watch Mike King interview PRINTING through QR code here OVATO DISTRIBUTION RV Lifestyle-NZTODAY Vol 5 July–August 2020 5 Gordon and Gotch NOTICE TO ADVERTISERS RnR Publishing Ltd uses due care and diligence in the preparation of this magazine, but is not responsible or liable for any mistakes, misprints, omissions or typographical errors. RnR Publishing Ltd prints advertisements provided to the publisher, but gives no warranty and makes no representation to the truth, accuracy or sufficiency of any description, photograph or statement. RnR Publishing Ltd accepts no liability for any loss that may be suffered by any person who relies either wholly or in part upon any description, photograph or statement contained herein. Advertisers are advised that all advertising must conform to the ASA Codes of New Zealand Advertising; full details and codes book available from asa.co.nz. RnR Publishing Ltd reserves the right to refuse any advertisement for any reason. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher or editor. All material gathered in creating RV-NZTODAY Lifestyle magazine is copyright 2020 RnR Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved in all media. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without the express written permission of the publisher. Please check our website RnRPublishing.co.nz for a full Terms and Conditions of advertising schedule.

ROCK’N’ROBYN Chronicles Reflecting on Lockdown, baking, bears and first trips away Story Robyn Dallimore Photos Bruce Mountain (aka The Rock) 1 New Zealand had to self-isolate for 14 days. into lockdown – from midnight that night A halt to public gatherings over 500 was also we entered into Level 2. Two days later on M id-March saw the RV industry announced that day, and the limit dropped to the March 23 we went up to Level 3 and were hustling and bustling getting ready 100 soon after. On March 17, overseas tourists given notice that we would be at full lock- for the Covi Motorhome Caravan flouting the law were put into quarantine for down Level 4 on March 25. Parliament was and Outdoor Show in Auckland 14 days and ordered to leave the country at the suspended on March 24, and from then on March 13–15, just as the Covid-19 end. The government used hired motorhomes for weeks the whole population was at home pandemic was building pace around the world. to quarantine arriving people at Whangaparāoa in ‘bubbles’, some alone, others with friends It was touch and go if the show would go ahead, Peninsula. Anzac commemorations were or family, and life changed in ways we could and I believe it was the last large public event cancelled for the first time, and the next day never have imagined. Things began relaxing in Auckland before we all became educated to Foreign Affairs Minister Winston Peters urged on April 27 when we moved from Level 4 to a new way of living, day to day through alert all Kiwis travelling overseas to get home asap. Level 3, then to Level 2 on May 13 and Level levels 1 to 4 and back to to 1. Let’s reflect on 1 on June 8 where we remain today. As of a few dates. In a special media briefing on March 21, the June 23, the country has had 1515 cases, and Prime Minister Jacinda Ardern announced 22 people have died as a consequence. The first confirmed case here was recorded on the introduction of a country-wide alert-level February 28 and changes began soon after, start- system to deal with the coronavirus outbreak, We’re now working our way through the ing with the cancellation of a commemoration with Level 1 being the lowest risk of infection debacle over recently uncovered border weak- event for the mosque shootings on March 15. and Level 4 the highest, and the country went nesses – with thousands of people arriving Festivals in Auckland were cancelled and from home without being tested, and some arrivals 1am on March 16 any travellers arriving in mixing with others before moving on. Billions are being pumped into the economy with wage subsidies, loans, and so much more – thank goodness for that. I don’t care what you say, for those of us suspended in business limbo this support has been invaluable. Wikipedia has a good timeline on it – quite sobering to 2 1. Interior 2003 Leisure Line caravan 6 RV Lifestyle-NZTODAY Vol 5 July–August 2020 for sale for $29,990 Country RV. Fully self-contained, full gas oven with separate grill, hobs on top. Gas/240v/12v, sink unit, fitted grey and fresh water tanks, 90L Dometic Fridge with ice box. Loving this little cutie 2. Rob Axton, Robyn and Caspar enjoying the Expo day

3 5 3. Lots of cooking, videos of it on who knows where this freefall is going to end Facebook lol, meals on the deck - our own 4 or when. For most people, life is going to be home restaurant see it all laid out. challenging, confronting and confusing for 4. Parking up Rosie and RnR4, a fence some time I reckon. across the driveway to keep Caspar in and So how well did we all deal with it? A break- visitors out. fast show Youthline interview revealed a huge What can we do to help others, we all ask 5. A typical daily report on TV increase in demand from young people in ourselves. In our case, we’re doing our best to 6. Lovely beachfront camp sites for RVs at crisis, in violent home situations. Many families inspire you, our readers, to explore your own Sandspit Holiday Park loved the time being together, with work not backyard, travel to your nearby regions and taking parents away. Baking became the new further afield if you can. Visit the villages and Abel Tasman, Stewart Island, Cape Rēinga or norm in so many households that flour was towns around the country – especially those of anywhere in between. New Zealand is on the in short supply all over the country. Making you who have travelled the world extensively top of the list for the majority of travellers videos and having Zoom meetings became but perhaps not been to Wellington, Nelson, around the world – they want to come here to popular really quickly, as did working from walk our Great Walks, explore our gorgeous home. A team of five million was the catch beaches, have adventures in the most stunning cry, ‘unprecedented’ the most used word geographic region in the world – and now we for weeks, walking-eating-playing together have it all to ourselves. became the norm, some pretty good times for lots of people out there. We all saved money For readers who don’t have an RV to take on on petrol, meals and coffees out, shopping the road, think short weekends away, even day and generally wasting money. But for many, trips from your house to somewhere within jobs are gone or on the line right now, and 150km, and explore everywhere in between – petrol is the cheapest it has been for years. You don’t need a motorhome, caravan or RV, or even any accommodation to start exploring our country. Start with your backyard, your local DOC parks, your local reserve walkways, your local producers. Book flights months ahead and go somewhere in another island. That usually means the South Island but lots of southerners have never been to the North Island. If you live in a big city, when was the last time you went to a gallery, the museum, walked the main streets, done the sightseeing stuff down the road. Walking every day became a favoured occupation for many of us – has the return to day-to-day life taken that away again, or has it become the new normal? For us, work has interfered, and with deadlines on What can we do to help 6 others moving forward, we all ask ourselves. In our case we continue to inspire you – our readers – to explore you own backyard, travel to your nearby regions and further afield if you can. RV Lifestyle-NZTODAY Vol 5 July–August 2020 7

ROCK’N’ROBYN Chronicles 7 8 7.Visitors Tim and Jamie loved the horses get a copy free. That would have been great, on the beach at Sandspit us Caspar is not happy this week. but would have meant printing thousands 8.Incredible West Coast Pouanamu The lockdown was devastating for all pub- more copies, and even the cheap print price carving - at the Puawai Jade shop in Mt we could afford would have exploded by nearly Maunganui, I love greenstone so much, lishers. From our perspective the RV and $20,000 extra. Then we would have had to this shop is inspiring and offers authentic tourism industries were shut down, no one get those magazines wrapped, addressed and NZ jade had any income, and the future was uncertain. posted out – another huge cost. Subscriber’s Bauer Media closed all its titles here and some won’t realise, but the cost to post a magazine the water’s edge right by the channel coming in Australia, and soon after, they purchased out from the office has gone from $2.50 for a into the inner harbour where the boats are at another publishing group in Aussie and closed pre-paid envelope to $4.79. We do get bulk the marina. You can get a water taxi to Kawau more titles there. This affected retail magazine prices for the main print mailout but those costs Island from there. Three fish were caught and shelf space, with no regular weekly magazines have almost doubled too, so it just couldn’t be returned, the sun was shining, wind dropped being printed here – and those coming in from done – for strong economic reasons, especially away and the sunset was lovely. So good to be overseas were stopped dead. There wasn’t a print with the financial world up in the air. You can out of home and sitting by the beach again. publisher in the country who could go out to order a copy online for $15 posted to you, or Great to sleep in the motorhome, crank up the businesses and ask for money. Literally no one check the list of retail outlets where you can BBQ at the campground and sit around having knew where their next dollar was coming from, buy a copy, and support your local magazine meals together – friends and their kids came except the food producers and supermarkets. outlet. They need the help, buy local if you up too so it felt like a family party. We suspended printing the May-June Vol 5 can. I trust readers understand this. issue, and you are reading that volume now as Over the long Queen’s Birthday weekend we the July-August issue, and on we go. We acknowledge our advertisers in this issue, popped down to Tauranga in the motorhome our sincere thanks and gratitude goes to them that will join the RocknRobyn fleet for the The RV industry reported good sales at the from us, and our readers, for supporting us summer at least. All will be revealed when Covi SuperShow. Many sold units while in and getting this issue to print. it is sign-written and delivered to us – watch lockdown, and interest is certainly strong out Facebook for updates. This visit we popped there for new and used RVs of every descrip- Our local travelling saw us load up the in to see Rob Axton at Country RV who was tion. Why not? Having your own containment motorhome and head to Sandspit, just north having an Expo weekend with Leisure Line facility to travel around in, or to park in the of Auckland. Family had booked a cabin at the caravans. We checked out the latest models, backyard for extra accommodation, is a pretty campground for the first weekend out of Level and caught up – carefully – at that point it was good investment in these times. 2 when we could travel around the region, so still Level 2 check-in rules and records, etc. we loaded up the RocknRobyn, packed Cas- What will happen by the end of the year par in and headed north with them. What a We had birthdays over lockdown with a with the RV stock in the country, we don’t wonderful couple of days we had. The Sandspit certain little girl turning four, and a poppa know. Are the European, UK and Australian Holiday Park campground is located on the turning 69 (no not Bruce). The presents nana factories pumping out units at their usual waterfront, on a sandspit as you might have ordered before lockdown arrived two weeks capacity, or have the closures in world-wide guessed. We took the electric bikes up so we into Level 2 – typical. manufacturing impacted the supply chain for could load up the grand kid and the fishing months or years. Rental companies here are gear and zip out over the sandy mud flats to Last Sunday we headed down to the Pōkeno another unknown – will a flood of used vehicles Sunday market – nice to get back to usual in that come on the market to free up funds, or will regard. We are planning a trip to Martinborough they stop importing and run their vehicles next month, taking the new RnR5 south for for longer till the tide turns and drives up the our writer to pick up, commencing a series of value of used product available. The next few long and short road-trip explorations of the months will clarify the waters, I guess. stunning North Island – yes that’s right readers, the North Island has gorgeous vistas aplenty, We produced a Special Edition NZTODAY long golden beaches, cycle and walking trails, South Island Road Trips collection magazine historic journeys aplenty, so much to be seen for retail stores, and it is on sale now – a and done, and we are going to share all those retail-only publication to help retail outlets get travels with you, our readers. You may even magazines onto their shelves. We scraped up see a convoy now and then with RocknRobyn a few advertisers to help pay the special price Rosie (1998 Ford Transit), RocknRobyn 4 (2005 the printer gave us to get a magazine into print. Mitsubish Canter), and RocknRobyn 5 (identity I have been asked why the subscribers didn’t to come) all travelling together – look out for 8 RV Lifestyle-NZTODAY Vol 5 July–August 2020 us in the upcoming months. PENCIL IN THESE DATES September NZMCA Motorhome Caravan & Leisure Show Mystery Creek 18-20 September New time for Christchurch NZMCA Motorhome Caravan & Leisure Show 10-11 October, new venue Canterbury Agricultural Park

UMPHERSTON SINKHOLE, LIMESTONE COAST HEY, NEW ZEALAND WHEN YOU’RE READY, WE’VE SAVED YOU A SEAT. SOUTHAUSTRALIA.COM | REWARDS WONDER

TRAVEL Stewart Island SOUTHLAND LAND OF GLOWING SKIES There is a certain quietness on Stewart Island – something you feel in your bones. It is as if you’ve dropped back in time to a land covered in virgin rainforest, a habitat for rare birds, and a small fishing village and a lively pub. Words – Jane Dove Juneau Photographs –Jane Dove Juneau or Stewart Island Tourism 10 RV Lifestyle-NZTODAY Vol 5 July–August 2020

1 RV Lifestyle-NZTODAY Vol 5 July–August 2020 11

TRAVEL Stewart Island SOUTHLAND 2 Soon after leaving Bluff, swells were looming around the hills and a few dozen fishing boats up in the front window and the captain was bobbed on the dark, glassy water. The South Crossing Foveaux Strait for the first time all concentration at the wheel. One or two Sea Hotel sits prominently, if not appropriately, can be intimidating. The stretch of passengers were looking pale. I clutched the at the centre of the beach with the Four Square water between Bluff (at the bottom of handrail in between pitches and made my way nearby. Scattered over the bushy hills in the the South Island) and Stewart Island/ to the stern where a row of men were holding bay are the cribs and houses for the 400 or so Rakiura has a reputation of providing on tightly to the side rail, looking ahead for the people who live on Stewart Island, plus visitors. one of the wildest ferry rides in New Zealand. next big wave and riding the waves like surfers As the ocean depth is shallow – only 30-metres as showers of spray rained overhead. The wind Most of the island is wilderness – forest – it chops up quickly with wind and swell. On whipped away the diesel fumes, calming my or shrubland running from the hills down a rough day mountains of spray are about all nervous stomach. to bays hiding secluded golden beaches. In you can see of the ferry crossing the strait. 2002 Rakiura National Park was opened, The hour-long crossing passed quickly and as encompassing a network of former reserves With this in mind my partner Rick and I we motored in to Halfmoon Bay, mist swirled and state forest areas – around 85 per cent of each took a Sea-Leg tablet before we boarded the smaller of the two catamarans in the fleet. MĀORI HERITAGE Land of Glowing Skies Rakiura is the Māori name for Stewart Island and means the ‘Land of the Glowing Skies’. While this is a reference to the blushes of Te Rakitamau, it also describes the island’s spectacular sunsets and its night-time displays of Aurora Australis, the Southern Lights. Te Puka – the anchor stone 3 Māori creation stories tell how Māui, a legendary Polynesian voyager, pulled up from the sea floor the anchor stone Te Puka a Māui (Stewart Island/ Rakiura) to act as an anchor for the great ancestral canoe Te Waka o Aoraki (South Island of New Zealand). 12 RV Lifestyle-NZTODAY Vol 5 July–August 2020

45 67 the island. With only 20km of roads near the a very steep staircase leading up into the heart of 1. A peaceful morning at Halfmoon Bay, Stewart settlement of Oban, the main way to access the house. To the right was a small kitchen with Island. Photo: Stewart Island Tourism the island is to hike some of the 300-or-so a wooden bench and a rack overflowing with 2. Early-morning light at Port William kilometres of tracks. It was the lure of hiking drying dishes. Two old wobbly pane windows 3. View from the ferry crossing the Foveaux Strait. in the wilderness that had drawn us to visit opened out onto a slightly overgrown yard. 4. A rimu tree hangs over a pristine stream Stewart Island. The trees were flourishing, vastly different to 5. A kākā feeds on scavenged food at Oban the windblown straggly trees we saw at Colic 6. The hut at Port William sleeps 24 people Once docked at the wharf everyone scram- Bay near Riverton. 7. Chalky (left) and Adrian enjoy one of their many bled in the luggage bins to find their packs chess challenges at Port William amid the pile of bags. Finally, with our packs The kitchen opened into a living room with on we walked up the road past the i-SITE, a farmhouse style dining table, and a ‘perfectly eggs cooking ready to fill long crusty bread past several shops and the Department of tuned’ guitar hung on the wall. Rows of yellow rolls with hot dogs and egg for a picnic lunch. Conservation (DOC) Visitors Centre up to National Geographic magazines lined the far Our lunch for the next few days might not be Bunkers Backpackers. wall along with another bookshelf stacked with quite as hearty as we were heading off to walk large books. This was a place where people the Rakiura Track, a three-day hike – one of A kākā appeared on the deck railing outside took time to read. our backpackers looking around as if quite at home. The feeling was mutual. The old villa had A Spanish couple in the kitchen had scrambled RV Lifestyle-NZTODAY Vol 5 July–August 2020 13

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8 New Zealand’s Great Walks. carry a pack with food, sleeping bags, clothes 8. Jane Mitchell and Rick stroll The inspiration for the walk had come from and stove for three days. along Māori Beach a friend Jane Mitchell who was spending the Hiking is about keeping the weight down in – and adding a camera to mine – we were ready. season working for DOC as a hut warden at your pack, so with a lightweight gas stove, pot By now hunger had set in. The choices for Port William, one of the huts on the Rakiura and dehydrated meals we were off to a good Track. “This is a leisurely hike suitable for start. Then it’s matter of keeping clothes to a dining out in Oban are simple, the pub, Kai anyone with a moderate level of fitness,” says minimum but having a set of dry clothes and Kart and Church Hill Restaurant. We wandered the DOC brochure. With the promise of star- warm layers. Rick thought I was strange as I around the street to discover a line of people gazing in the world’s fifth International Dark fanatically weighed all my clothes on an old waiting at the Kai Kart. Deciding this must be Sky Sanctuary and the chance to see a kiwi I set of cooking scales, but it helped refine my a positive indicator we ordered – the blue cod was hooked. As there wasn’t a huge elevation pack. We put all our clothes into plastic bags and chips was a winner. Luckily I brought my to climb it looked like one of the easier of the to protect against rain and improvised a rain camera with me in case I saw an elusive kiwi, Great Walks, but although I have done plenty cover for our packs out of rubbish bags. After but instead the antics of a mischievous kākā of day walks, my challenge with this one was to packing and repacking our packs several times kept me entertained while we waited for our RV Lifestyle-NZTODAY Vol 5 July–August 2020 15

TRAVEL Stewart Island SOUTHLAND 9 10 order. I guessed that the locals were the ones Rakiura Hike. It was money well spent as we of Japan and her adventures in Stewart Island. wearing T-shirts and shorts as the evening had an 8km hike for the first day. There’s also the (Part of the hut warden’s work is to keep the cooled to a balmy 10°C. The temperatures were option of catching a water taxi to Port William/ track clear of debris.) I swear Rick slipped a cool for summer and in the week leading up to Potirepo hut for those averse or unable to hike. brick into my pack, as I adjusted to the fact our visit maxed out at 12°C. This caused some this was going to be my reality for the next few stress for a certain member of our party who Jane had just arrived back in New Zealand days. Rick and Jane bounced along the track was missing the hot weather, but at latitude 47 from a ski trip to Japan and was having a quick as if they were carrying feathers. degrees south it is to be expected. cultural adjustment to track clearing on Rak- iura. The walk follows the shoreline through A long white sand beach stretched to the Next morning, with our warm clothes packed forest from Lee Bay, past Little River along to bush-covered hills in the distance. Māori and Jane on board we bounced along in a taxi Māori Beach. Stopping now and then to pull a Bay was a good place to stop for lunch as the past Horseshoe Bay, up and over a few hills supplejack vine off the track or remove a fallen cloud burned away and the sun came out. At in the short 5km ($30) ride to the start of the branch, Jane kept us entertained with stories the far end of the beach a tannin-coloured Just a 20 minute scenic flight from Scheduled daily flights, Invercargill to this tranquil place where time day trip specials or try the almost stands still…where silence is broken exciting ‘Coast to Coast’ adventure only by the native birds calling in the trees… Contact us now to arrange your visit 16 RV Lifestyle-NZTODAY Vol 5 July–August 2020 to natural New Zealand at its best… PO Box 860, Invercargill Ph 03 218 9129, Fax 03 214 4681 Email [email protected] www.stewartislandflights.com

9. North Arm was an important food 11 and guided sea kayaking. Furhana’s tours include gathering area for early Māori close encounters with rare/endangered birds such as 10. The remains of the Māori Beach sawmill THINGS TO DO: kiwi, and visits to primeval rain forests. 11. DOC map of the Rakiura Track, which Visit ruggedyrange.com for more information. can be walked in either direction Rakiura Track – this three-day walk must be booked in advance through the DOC website as the hut Cruises and fishing – a range of operators offer stream drained into the blue ocean. Upstream spaces sell out. North West Circuit is a 10–12-day cruises and excursions around Stewart Island. a swing-bridge crossed the river and the track hike or the Southern Circuit a 6–9-day hike; both are Visit Stewartisland.co.nz for more information, see disappeared up into the bush. Strange, I had for experienced/well-equipped hikers only. also hunting and diving. forgotten about my pack. There are a range of short day hikes from Oban – Rakiura Museum – the Bunkhouse Theatre, A Local’s Port William is marked by a wharf and the for different fitness levels and abilities – where one Tail and Rakiura Jade will each add to your Stewart Port William hut is set in a clearing overlook- can enjoy bush, birds and scenery. Island experience. ing the bay. Incongruously several large gum trees tower over the foreshore, looking out of Ulva Island – is predator-free island sanctuary just a Accommodation – For place in this scene and likely planted by early 10-minute boat ride from Golden Bay and is open to all the accommodation, inhabitants of the area. Surprisingly this remote the public for viewing rare native birds. The island can including Budget, Hosted, section of New Zealand is rich with history. be accessed by a ferry, private tours or water taxi. self-catering, Hotel, motel Māori were the first to inhabit the Rakiura and lodge visit https:// Track area over 600 years ago, using seasonal Ruggedy Range – one of the wilderness tour www.stewartisland.co.nz/ camps for their food gathering expeditions. operators offers bird watching, flora, ecology and accommodation/ After Europeans arrived the coast was busy conservation tours, photography tours, boat cruises with whaling, sealing, mining and the milling boots, evidence of what was to come. Mud, of timber. In obscure places in the forest you my head into the ceiling. Damn. About 5am and lots of it. The 6-hour 13km walk across can still see the well-preserved mechanical Rick saw the long beak shape and head of a this section of the island to North Arm passed skeletons of timber mills, as at Māori Beach. kiwi silhouetted in the moonlight along the through regenerating podocarp forest, along path to the loo. with sections of dense virgin forest. The track As we arrived at Port William late afternoon was not as well formed as the first day, and we ended up with two mattresses on the top “It was unmistakable,” he said as he rustled although it gained only 200m elevation, the bunk platform accessed by a wooden ladder back into his sleeping bag. that appeared tricky to negotiate in the mid- dle of the night. The hut had two bunkrooms Outside on the deck was a row of muddy accommodating 24, and there was a campsite nearby for 16 people. Jane had her own small quarters at the end of the hut. People were making dinner in kitchen – some had already eaten. Rick precariously balanced a pot of water on top of our small gas stove to heat our gourmet teriyaki chicken dinner. This is the way to cook – add water and voilà, it’s ready, tasting surprisingly good after the day’s walk. Wrapped up for the cold, two men sat outside on a bench staring intently at a chessboard. With dusk approaching, one of the play- ers gazed out into the bay where the dark bush-covered hills were outlined by the silver ocean. Kiwi spotting and looking at the stars is the usual evening pastime at Port William, that’s if you can keep awake long enough as it doesn’t get dark until around 10pm in summer. I had my adventures in the night finding my way outside in the dark then climbing back up the ladder to the bunk and sticking WELCOME TO OBSERVATION ROCK LODGE Treat yourself and explore Stewart Island from your luxury gourmet Lodge. Enjoy stunning seaviews, sunsets, Aurora and star gazing p: 032191444 m: 0274441802 www.observationrocklodge.co.nz RV Lifestyle-NZTODAY Vol 5 July–August 2020 17

TRAVEL Stewart Island SOUTHLAND 12 13 track went up and down frequently. We hiked one-and-a-half hours she found the track but 12. Rick is working his way through the mud puzzle past tall rimus stretching skywards with gardens it was almost dark. The last couple of hours 13. Bunkers Backpackers in Oban of crown ferns dotted beneath. The forest is she walked with her headlamp. Traumatised reasonably open with lush sections of what by her experience she was up at 6.30am getting Rick and I wandered down to the old wooden I call ‘nature’s garden’, scenes so perfect that ready for the walk out. pub to meet a crew from the walk for dinner. only nature could recreate. Historical photos covered the walls in the The last day I bounced down the track ready lobby, and in the bar, worn brown leather Rick became interested in ‘mud puzzles’ – for the final 13km to Oban, around the Pat- sofas bulged with people. After a yeasty IPA figuring out how to navigate around sections erson Inlet. The undulating trail meandered and a dish of mouth-watering baked blue cod, of the track that were wet, boggy and among through kāmahi and thick-barked rimu trees I listened to the gravel voice of Friday banging tangled tree roots, without getting wet feet. With under a luxurious carpet of crown ferns, with out a Johnny Cash song on guitar accompanied up to 70 people a day walking the Rakiura, in glimpses into secluded bays. On a grassy knoll by Kath on piano – Folsom Prison Blues, Walk some places long sections of track became a at Kaipipi Bay Rick heated the billy for noodle the Line, Ring of Fire – the packed bar clapped quagmire. Our progress was slowed but it was soup, after which we plunged into the cold, loudly edging the group to new levels. Rick worth taking time as neither of us wanted to salty ocean. The last section of track was along had a guitar thrust into his hand and joined take a dive in the mud. We passed a muddy the remains of an old stone road connecting the band. Our taxi-come-boat driver was tired lady who looked like I felt, so when I Halfmoon Bay to Kaipipi Bay. It was once the playing the clarinet. A well-lubricated male spotted North Arm hut I let out a big ‘yahoo’ busiest road on the island and used by more dancer emerged from the crowd inspired by knowing she’d hear me. than 100 people during the peak of milling at Sweet Caroline and entertained the patrons Kaipipi Bay, between 1861 and 1926. with arms/hips rocking in time to the beat. The newer North Arm hut is nestled in the low bush overlooking the bay and comfortably Back at our backpackers in Oban, our small Stewart Island is a part of New Zealand that accommodates 18 hikers for the night. Almost attic room had crisp white sheets, an arch has seen little influence of change, with the asleep about 10pm I remembered one girl, Mel, shaped push-up window – old-world charm majority of the island still in virgin rainforest. who hadn’t arrived from Port William. Maybe in a comfortable homely way. Canadian Liz, Evidence of past logging and milling operations, she had changed her plans I muttered to Rick. the lodge manager, was listening to a podcast now overgrown, appear in the forest occasion- with an earphone hanging out one ear while ally like old steel steampunk creatures of an In the morning I was pleased to see that rolling out pasta dough. alien world. The hardy people that inhabit this she had arrived, but not until 10.30pm. I gave island are down to earth and full of character. her a big welcome hug. Mel lost her way after “I love the very slow pace of life,” said Liz. The locals are no doubt happy when all the skirting one of the mud sections. Terrified of “Nothing is going anywhere fast. The small seasonal tourists disappear off their island and being lost Mel stopped and decided to try and community rely on themselves to get things all that remains is peace and quiet. retrace her steps, tying pieces of material to done. If it happens it happens. If not they’ll trees so she could see where she had been. After figure out how to do things differently.” 18 RV Lifestyle-NZTODAY Vol 5 July–August 2020

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LIFESTYLE Ski adventures SOUTHERN ALPS 1 20 RV Lifestyle-NZTODAY Vol 5 July–August 2020

TICKET TO RIDE Excuse me – but the Southern Alps are calling. Time to pack up my ski bag and go south to Queenstown for a winter adventure among the snow-capped mountains and southern lakes. Story Jane Dove Juneau words and photographs unless otherwise credited RV Lifestyle-NZTODAY Vol 5 July–August 2020 21

LIFESTYLE Ski adventures SOUTHERN ALPS 2 3 After a quick change into ski clothes in the anticipating some great days skiing. carpark we walk up to the award-winning base I peer out the plane’s oval window, across station at The Remarkables. The large café area snow-covered mountains to the shimmer- With my bag and skis balanced on a trolley I on the second floor has stunning mountain ing Tasman Sea in the west and down into wander out of the airport to find Jane Mitchell, views from all sides and a heated wraparound remote valleys looking for good lines to a ski buddy who has kindly offered to pick me deck with open fires, along with a tasty array ski. We fly over Lake Wakatipu and circle up. The mountains are dusted in fresh snow of food and drinks. I browse the selection of around the craggy cliffs of The Remarkables – and the two Jane’s are amping. As we wind bakery items, gourmet rolls, salads, sushi – what far below houses line the lake shore. As we lose our way up the steep road to The Remarkables a choice – or if you’re really hungry, a gourmet altitude ready to land at Queenstown airport, for an afternoon skiing I immerse myself in steak sandwich, burger from the char-grill or the hills rise up beside us until the aircraft jerks the view down over Queenstown and Lake soups and curries. lightly onto the runway, engaging the brakes as Hayes. I wasn’t expecting to be whisked up we slow to an idle as we cross to the terminal. I the mountain so quickly, but what can you Excitement is peaking as we pull on our ski inhale that first blast of chilly mountain air and say when powder runs are on offer. boots and go for a warm-up run on Curvey look around to admire the mountain scenery “Let’s go,” of course. WE CAN'T WAIT TO SEE YOU Phone 03 441 0288 | www.parkresidence.co.nz Phone 03 441 0288 | www.thcnuggetpoint.co.nz 154 Arthurs Point Rd, Arthurs Point, Queenstown 9371 146 Arthurs Point Rd, Arthurs Point, Queenstown 9371 22 RV Lifestyle-NZTODAY Vol 5 July–August 2020

1. The view of Queenstown, from the 5 top of The Remarkables 2. That’s me, volunteering as a Winter Games gate judge, Coronet Peak 3. The view from Otago Ski Club’s Joel Lodge is hard to beat 4. The Curvey Basin lift at The Remarkables 5. Tai Juneau racing slalom at the Winter Games, Coronet Peak 6. Family time at Cardrona. Photo: Cardrona Alpine Resort Basin chair before riding up Shadow Basin lift 46 to check out Homeward run. There has been fresh snow overnight and the sketchy traverse “The sketchy traverse around to Homeward around to Homeward provides a little more provides a little more excitement than I’d planned excitement than I’d planned for my second run for my second run as I focus on the bumpy ski as I focus on the bumpy ski tracks – not looking tracks – not looking down the steep slope below.” down the steep slope below. Once we reach the ridge the trail opens out to a large basin with Wakatipu and Lake Hayes. The terrain parks said Jen Houltham, Communications Executive very few tracks. Flying down through the soft at The Remarkables and big mountain riding for Cardrona Alpine Resort Treble Cone. “It snow, what a perfect way to start three weeks have adventure for all ages, along with begin- is an incredible place to ski and snowboard.” in Queenstown. ner and intermediate runs. For a breathtaking view over Queenstown take Shadow Basin lift Along with the steeps, Treble Cone has Visits to Queenstown started six years ago and hike to the top of the ridge. It is not for 700m of vertical intermediate trail and boasts when my youngest son Tai was racing at Cor- the fainthearted, and if you are sightseeing the longest lift-serviced vertical drop in the onet Peak and now I return each year for my take a hat, gloves, and jacket and wear boots Southern Lakes District. I have spent a few South Island winter fix. Not only is the scenery with good grip. fun days exploring the Treble Cone and found in the Southern Alps amazing but the consistent some excellent steep runs. The mountain has a weather in Otago with lots of sunshine results Cardrona is accessed off the Crown Road loyal fan base of supporters who will not ski/ in very few closed mountain days. I have a that snakes up out of the valley just north of ride anywhere else in New Zealand. NZ Ski Season pass which works at Coronet Arrow Junction. It is 40 years since Cardrona Peak, The Remarkables and Mt Hutt. The other first opened in 1980 and the ski area has grown Queenstown is easily accessed by air from resorts near Queenstown are Cardrona and into a world-class resort known as a ‘stomping around New Zealand with some great prices Treble Cone at Wanaka; now owned jointly ground for Olympic and X-Games athletes’ from the main centres. The different ski areas all their passes are interchangeable. So with four who train on the extensive terrain parks and offer a range of pass deals – the best are usually great ski areas, each offering great on-piste runs, pipes. The wide open terrain in the big basin a multiday pass for three days or more which parks and free-ride terrain, what’s not to love? offers lots of space and progressive terrain reduces the daily lift price. To find out the best for all levels. There are beginner ‘green’ runs deals visit the websites of the various ski areas I stay at the Otago Ski Club’s Joel Lodge, just from the top of the mountain and an extensive or phone for information. Seniors’ discounts below the base building at Coronet Peak. From trail network of intermediate ‘blue’ runs. It is apply to all the ski areas for the 65-plus, and the lodge I can see across to The Remarkables a great ski area for beginners and families – if you are 75-plus skiing is free. glowing in the evening light and down to with a special ski learning area for children Queenstown on the shore of Lake Wakatipu. under five and a fully licensed early-child-care This is an excellent season to support the The open fire is blazing in the living room centre. Cardrona offers the only on-mountain Southern Lakes District ski areas as the slopes and the welcoming lodge is busy with people resort accommodation with 15 fully serviced will be uncrowded with limited international hungry after a day on the mountain. apartments, which I am told sell out fast. visitors, and there are plenty of accommodation deals on offer in Queenstown, Arrowtown Coronet Peak and The Remarkables are the In contrast, Treble Cone, accessed around or Wanaka. It is a perfect time to experience closest ski areas to Queenstown, each offer- Lake Wanaka and up a steep mountain road, southern hospitality, from world-class hotels ing a different on-snow experience and both is known as a free-ride mountain with steeps, and luxury lodges, to apartments, mid-range excellent for families. Coronet has rolling hills chutes, cliffs and “the best views in the world guesthouses, motels, backpackers and holiday with lots of accessible terrain, with great back over the Matukituki Valley and Lake Wanaka,” parks. Pack up your skis or snowboard and head bowls along with night skiing on Friday and south for an adventure in the Southern Alps. Saturday night. International ski race teams come to Coronet Peak to train, enjoying the RV Lifestyle-NZTODAY Vol 5 July–August 2020 23 consistent snow and easy access (20 minutes) to Queenstown. Sightseers can ride the Cor- onet Express in the new eight-seater gondola cabins to the top of the mountain to see the stunning view down over Queenstown, Lake

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6.Downtown Queenstown has a range of 9 Lake Hayes, Arrowtown and Gibbston. You can galleries, cafés, bars and shops even combine a ride with a tour of Gibbston’s 7. AJ Hickling fills the streets with soulful Frankton Arm walkway that follows the lake wineries – and score a lift back to town on a sounds out to Frankton, or the Sunshine Bay Track in shuttle at the end of the day. Guided tours are 8.Late-afternoon sun lights up the hills the other direction around the lake to Sunshine available and give you access to some of the best above Lake Wakatipu Bay. For a shorter walk, wander around the trails and views in town ranging from short 9.The drive to Glenorchy is one of the peaceful Queenstown Gardens where you gentle trails to multi-day biking adventures. most scenic in New Zealand – from the can relax and enjoy the ponds, rose garden For more information and maps online visit: Papahua footbridge and wide variety of trees or have a game of queenstownnz.co.nz the official tourism website. 18-hole Frisbee golf. for great views of Lake Wanaka – even a hike WINERIES up the track for up to an hour is worthwhile. BIKING Cyclists, visit lakewanaka.co.nz to discover 10 Some of the world’s best Pinot Noir comes from great bike rides around Wanaka. Queenstown offers a wide range of biking tracks wineries in the nearby Gibbston ‘Valley of Vines’, and trails for all styles of biking and all levels of one of six sub-regions producing world-class Other ideas for activities on a fine day include fitness, from easy scenic tracks to spectacular wine in the area. Within 40-minutes’ drive of a drive up to The Remarkables ski area for lakeside or backcountry trails, road rides and the town centre there are 200 vineyards, so it’s lunch, then ride Shadow Basin chair to the top even heli-biking trips. The Queenstown Trail easy to enjoy a day wine tasting while exploring and walk up to the ridge-top to see the spec- starts downtown with 130km of off-road trails a variety of cellars and restaurants. A list of wine tacular view of Lake Wakatipu/Queenstown. that cover many of Queenstown’s most pic- Or drive up to Coronet Peak and take a scenic turesque locations, including Lake Wakatipu, gondola ride to the top for a spectacular view. On both of these trips be sure to wear grippy footwear, boots preferably and a hat, gloves and warm jacket. Or cruise across the lake on the century-old coal-fired steamship the TSS Earnslaw and combine the trip with a horse trek or independent cycling tour, or a visit to the Walter Peak High Country Farm. DOWNTOWN QUEENSTOWN Take a late-afternoon scenic Skyline Gondola up to Bob’s Peak and watch the sunset colours over Lake Wakatipu and the Remarkables. Drink a glass of champagne as the lights come on over the city and enjoy dinner or join a stargazing tour. Walking tracks around town include the Queenstown Hill loop track (three hours, and requires a reasonable level of fitness), the Tiki Trail which winds its way up the Skyline Gondola path to the lookout point at the top, RV Lifestyle-NZTODAY Vol 5 July–August 2020 29

SOUTHLAND Queenstown TRAVEL QUEENSTOWN A WINTER PLAYGROUND A dash of culture sprinkled in Queenstown mountain air, along with a plethora of outdoor activities, can enrich the spirit and revive the soul after weeks sheltering at home. Story + Photos Jane Dove Juneau 1 RV Lifestyle-NZTODAY Vol 5 July–August 2020 25

TRAVEL SOUTHLAND Queenstown 2 T he brown Otago landscape is a welcome to make such large prints. Down the road an A J Hickling Dusk on YouTube.) sight after the drenched green fields of elaborate pounamu tiki in the window of Waka Winter is a great time to escape to Queenstown Taranaki. The deep blue water of Lake draws me into the jewellery store as I admire the to experience the mountains covered in snow and Wakatipu is surrounded by mountains carved whales floating on the ceiling, exquisite explore the many activities on offer in addition sweeping skyward, their rugged peaks opals, Tahitian pearls and the most amazing to skiing or snowboarding. The experience in the draped with snow. The mountain air is brisk pounamu sculptures. After visiting several more Southern Lakes is so different from the North – my senses seem to sharpen with its chill. galleries I reach the large stone entranceway of Island – it is like being transported to another Downtown-Queenstown visitors are busy with the Ivan Clark Gallery. A wooden door leads country. In addition to the wonderful cultural their cameras capturing the sense of place and into the gallery filled with Ivan’s whimsical experiences of galleries, music and restaurants smiling perfectly for group selfies. Lines of people paintings, with his Lonely Dog series and large in downtown Queenstown, there are many crowd the pavement three or four deep outside impressionist landscapes reminiscent of the old- interesting day trips, hikes, bike and boat rides, Fergburgers – the roaring trade for burgers is world drama in early New Zealand paintings. wineries, golf and shopping to keep you busy. a licence to print money. Tourists are wearing Down by the waterfront a man is busking, with puffer jackets while the locals are lightly clad, his dog howling in tune to his music. Nearby a DAY TRIPS AND SHORT HIKES some even in shorts. man with a head of dreadlocks is creating soulful The drive up Lake Wakatipu to Glenorchy HIGH COUNTRY JOURNEYSmusic from an old beaten-up piano with the “Are they making a point?” I ask myself as I pull my beanie tighter over my ears. front removed. “The evolving rhythms are a actually goes to Paradise, a river valley where Large landscape photographs fill the window scenes from The Lord of the Rings were filmed. of the Romer Gallery. Fascinated I go inside, means of reflecting the art of living in harmony DrivTehferodmrisvteatiisonontoesotafttiohne abnedstexinpeNrienwceZtehaeland, visually inhaling scenes of wild remote places with ourselves, each other and the environment andmwaijtehsttihceSosuutnhoIusltaannddHfirgehshCosunnotwrydusting the and admiring the boldness of photographers Fully Catered 7 days- 8 nightswhich is the key to rhythm, music and life.” – A peaks I am in my element. There are numerous J Hickling. I was riveted. (Listen to Piano Busker• Self drsivuedyoduer onwns4toWpDsfrotmoBcleanhpetimurineclupdhinogtMooglerswaoprhthsStoatfionthe to Cardrona in Central Otago through a network of high country tracks. HIGH COUNTRYFULLY CATERED 7 DAYS, 8 NIGHTS JOURNEYS tDhreivme afrjoemstisc•• STt(tr3aSaa-yv6etoinvlieacuohtoiamctnlqehfousr)ite.taIotebsrleplsafaactrenmaw-dtisttihaoysHsmn. ialglearhfnuldlCy goueiudxendpttoeurrrygireounpsce • Self drive your ownN4WEWD f!ro6mdaByle-n7hneiimghtto“CCeanrdtrraolnOatiangCoe&ntMraal cOKtaengoziein”cclouduinntgry explorer Mfaromle-sswtaoyrsthaSntdatlioodngtehsr.o•ugTtohrauavrenslteaattwrtaoinrqkguoiienftehOrimgphaacrcaoemuwnaittrwhy itlsrlamaclakslosle.br•efuSaltlvayaygiliuanibdcleoedmfotfoorur2tra0gb1rl7oe/u1p8s. www.highcountryjourneys.co.nz NEW! t6oduarysta-rBF7toiannrrgignfihuentryO“tshCmLeeaanrrtnairnmaefl,aoORrwtmDaigl1alo,at&RilsoAoMnNbacFecoUKaneRvtnaaLzicYliaetb:”lJecoofhuonnr t2Mr0y2ue0lxh/p2ol0ol2rl1earnd c1705kdHigh Phone 03 444 9703 Mobile 027 228 8152 For further informationIcnofnot@acht:igJohhcnouMnutlhroyljloanudrnBeayrns.ecyos.nLazne, RD1, Ranfurly Ph: 03 444 9703 or 02w7 2w2w8.8h1i5g2hceomuanilt:[email protected] 26 RV Lifestyle-NZTODAY Vol 5 July–August 2020

moody mountain landscape, and one particular 4 3 ‘rest area’, on a bluff where the view opens up 5 1. An exciting jet-boat ride the lake, is magic. At the head of the lake is the on the Shotover River small settlement of Glenorchy – be sure to stop 2. Either walk or take at the General Store for an ice cream. A few miles the Skyline Gondola for further across the Rees River the road forks to a spectacular view of Paradise on the right and to the left a narrow Queenstown winding road through beech forest takes you 3. Beyond Paradise is to the Routeburn Track trailhead. where scenes from The Lord of the Rings were A shorter drive (20 minutes) from Queen- filmed stown is to the secluded Moke Lake, surrounded 4. The TSS Earnslaw casts by towering mountains. Take the road around off at Queenstown Lake Wakatipu towards Glenorchy, and the turn 5. The road to Moke Lake off to Moke Lake is about 10-minutes’ drive, after which the road climbs up into the hills. At RV Lifestyle-NZTODAY Vol 5 July–August 2020 27 Moke Lake there is a two-hour loop walking or biking track around the lake, departing from the campground at the far end of the lake. Leave mid-morning to visit the charming gold-rush village of Arrowtown for lunch, via Arthurs Point where you can stop for a jet-boat ride on the Shotover River. We took a walk up the Shotover River on a trail we discovered on the road that branches off just before you cross the Shotover River bridge. Moving on to Arrowtown, it has the best bakery with a selection of gourmet pies such as venison and chicken apricot along with pastries and an all-day breakfast menu. There are a number of lovely cafés and restaurants to choose from as well, or treats from the Remarkable Sweet Store or delectable chocolates and ice creams from

TRAVEL SOUTHLAND Queenstown 67 Patagonia Chocolates. A number of interesting Arrowtown River Trail, the Millennium Walk, Near the summit are sweeping vistas across galleries and quirky shops are housed in the Bush Creek Trail and Lake Hayes Walkway, a the Arrowtown Valley to The Remarkables. historic buildings in the main street. scenic two-hour loop around the picturesque On the Wanaka side, the road crosses a plateau lake, are among the options. of farmland down into the Cardrona Valley, The Lakes District Museum contains a wealth past the historic Cardrona Hotel, one of New of information about the early gold-mining A trip to Wanaka via the Crown Range is a Zealand’s oldest. Wander around the village at days in Arrowtown, while the historic Chinese full-day activity. Drive out of Queenstown past Wanaka and enjoy the many cafés, restaurants Village tells another side of the mining story. Lake Hayes and take the Crown Range Road, and galleries. If you’re feeling bold like the ski From Arrowtown there are 15 listed walking a steep winding road up into the hill country. racers I was with in Wanaka, jump off the wharf trails past mountains, rivers, forest and lakes Check the road conditions before you travel into the chilly lake for an eye-popping dip. If you – pick up a map from the Museum or go to and carry chains – if conditions are not suit- are energetic, hike Roys Peak (4–5 hours return) www.arrowtown.com for a list of the trails. The able, take the main route through Cromwell. 8 DOES YOUR CARAVAN OR MOTORHOME LEAK? YOU NEED OUR LIQUID RUBBER WATERPROOF SEALANT SIMPLY PAINT OR ROLL IT ON AND WALK AWAY 1Alit,vrae4ilpa&abil1les0in From selected Mitre 10 outlets or for further information visit our website www.liquidrubber.co.nz Email [email protected] 28 RV Lifestyle-NZTODAY Vol 5 July–August 2020

TRAVEL SOUTHLAND Queenstown 10 QUEENSTOWN NOTEBOOK 11 12 Flights: Book early and look out for Grabaseat specials on Air 10. The tranquil Queenstown Gardens golf course is open to the public all year round. NZ or Jetstar if they fly from your city. are a short walk from town The Hills Golf Club, initially designed as Sir 11. Visitors capture images for Car rentals: their social media posts Michael Hill’s private golf course in Arrowtown, Shop around for car rentals, as there is a good range 12. Ivan Clark’s Lonely Dog gallery opened in 2007 to host the New Zealand Open. of options, most with offices near the Queenstown 13. Ryan and Tai are in heaven with Set on 500 acres in a rugged glacial valley Airport. Hiring chains is a good idea. the large pizza at Fat Badgers. among native grasses and mountain tussock, it features more than a dozen sculptures crafted Chains: tours, tasting and self-guided options can be by New Zealand international artists. It is a Most of the mountain roads require chains to be found online at: queenstownnz.co.nz private members’ club but may take bookings carried so if you’re driving your own car bring chains, on request. or if you rent a car make sure chains are included. GOLFING Jack’s Point, Queenstown Golf Club at Kelvin Groceries: With six golf courses within 25 minutes of the Heights, and the Frankton Driving Range and Now with a good range of supermarkets the prices town centre, Queenstown is becoming known Golf Course round out the choices for golf, for supplies are competitive. There is a New World as a golfing destination. offering a wide variety of golfing from fun to by the airport and a Countdown at Frankton along technically challenging. with a large Pak’nSave (great prices). In the centre Arrowtown Golf Club attracts players from of town there are a number of small markets and around the world and is set among established JUST DO IT Raeward Fresh. trees with historic stone-cottage ruins and holes named to remember its gold-mining past. There are many more activities around the Accomodation: Southern Lakes area to discover and the best Shop online for accommodation deals at sites The 27-hole Millbrook golf course is set resource is the official Queenstownnz.co.nz like Trivago or Booking.com for world-class hotels in a natural alpine amphitheatre, with The website. This is a perfect time to visit the area and luxury lodges, to apartments, mid range Remarkables as a backdrop. Designed by Sir to enjoy the surrounds without the bustle of guesthouses, motels, back packers and holiday Bob Charles and renovated by Greg Turner in international visitors, as right now there is more parks. Visit the official website at Queenstownnz. 2010, Millbrook Resort has won a number of space for us Kiwis. It is a winter playground co.nz for accommodation information and a list of top golf awards. Millbrook Resort offers luxury offering a large selection of fun adventures, Holiday Parks. accommodation, a spa, health-and-fitness fine dining, cafés, galleries and wineries set in centre, restaurant and conference centre. The a stunning mountain environment. Shopping: Downtown are galleries, outdoor shops, restaurants 30 RV Lifestyle-NZTODAY Vol 5 July–August 2020 a couple of great vintage and second hand stores. In Frankton the Queenstown Central Shopping Centre has over 40 stores — home ware, fashion, adventure and eateries. Within walking distance of the airport is picturesque Remarkables Park Town Centre, with a range of eateries, home ware, fashion, outdoor and department stores. Eating out: There are numerous great places to eat in Queenstown. For pizza try Fat Badgers Pizza or the Cow Restaurant (rustic), gourmet burgers at Fergburger if you don’t mind waiting in line, Pub on Wharf good food/great prices, Winnies is a cosy bar for a drink or dinner, Hikari Sushi Bar on Beach Street and wicked chocolate treats at Patagonia Chocolates. 13

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Whitebaiting WEST COAST LIFESTYLE WHERE MGANU’MSBBOESOTTSFRAIREEND Allan Dick learns about the art and mystique of whitebaiting on a dark and secret river. Words + Photos Allan Dick 1 RV Lifestyle-NZTODAY Vol 5 July–August 2020 33

LIFESTYLE Whitebaiting WEST COAST 2 3 has become, ah, unfashionable in some quar- ters. And I can understand why. Apart from Ihave been to some wondrous places in the season, size of net, and a few other things, my years on this planet – safari in South there are few restrictions. There is no limit to Africa, the best hotel on the Grand Canal the size of catches, it is the only ‘fish’ you can in Venice, camping in the Aussie outback sell without risking going to jail (thus there is dining on camel, croc’ and emu, a month a real grey market), and there is, apparently, last year tearing around Europe, Tangiers, a real shortage of research into whitebait. Patagonia and most nooks and crannies of this great country – but I reckon the three The opposition to whitebaiting comes, days I spent on a dark and secret river in the mainly, on two fronts: a modern generation depths of south Westland are among the best who find it detestable to kill baby fish and I have ever had. those who fear the extinction of the species. But before I get going on this yarn I am I have no answer for the former, but for the going to – as the old proverb goes – face up latter, whitebaiting has been a national pastime to the elephant in the room. and an industry for more than a hundred years I am aware that in recent times whitebaiting 34 RV Lifestyle-NZTODAY Vol 5 July–August 2020

4 56 without real restriction and if they were going Whitebait have always been a luxury item. 1. Essential whitebaiting equipment - be extinguished, they would have joined the Years later, when we lived in Dunedin and gumboots Moa and the Haast Eagle a long, long time did have real whitebait, I was fascinated by 2. View downstream from the writer’s ago. Probably before Europeans knew the these tiny, skinny creatures that looked like ‘pozzy’ place existed. they were made of glass, but with eyes and a 3. The catch! thin black strip through the middle that Dad 4. Steve and the tinny in the harbour As a kid growing up in Auckland, my mother told me was their working parts heart, lungs, 5. Powering up the river in the tinny used to treat the Dicks and Dickettes to some- kidneys, stomach, bowels, bottom, etc. I wasn’t 6. The writer, with silly hat, inspects his thing called “mock” whitebait fritters mostly in the least bit revolted. first catch on Sunday nights. I had no idea what whitebait So, I feel no real guilt as the Navigator and were, so she could have saved the energy of I head for our secret river on the West Coast RV Lifestyle-NZTODAY Vol 5 July–August 2020 35 saying “mock”. I don’t think my mother was a couple of weeks before season end. a save-the-whitebait person and, looking Ōamaru friends, Steve and Pauline are back, I understand the only reason she used co-owners of a very basic hut/shed/crib/bach grated potato to emulate whitebait was that (call it what you will) buried deep in rainforest we were poor.

LIFESTYLE Whitebaiting WEST COAST in the south of the West Coast shortly before 7 it runs out of people. In other words, it’s down at the bottom. river. There were half-a-dozen other tinnies there, all jammed They don’t have a permanent stand, although in like Brisling Sardines in a can. there are more than a dozen of these in the But it was extraordinarily pictur- relatively short length of this secret river. esque. It was all under the forest Steve and Pauline are, however, allowed the canopy, still darkish from the use of one of these stands on their annual rain clouds, with rain dropping two-week sojourn. off the dark foliage. 8 I am amazed to find that almost every one It took my breath away. the decaying vegetation I believe. of these stands is owned by Ōamaru people! Bags and provisions on board, I was hoisted With dense rainforest coming right down to in and then the Navigator and Steve followed. But, I am getting ahead of myself. There were several hundred litres of water the river’s edge, the feeling of being in Arthur Leaving Ōamaru I was in more than two in the bottom of the tinny, from the rain, Conan Doyle’s The Lost World was exacerbated. minds about the expedition and I had no real which Steve bailed out with remarkable effi- Dead, black, tree branches protruding from idea of what I was going to find. ciency, his arm a blur – which had the effect the water looked like Loch Ness monsters and This was the trip that started badly for me of raising the level of the dark and secret river added even more to the sense of primeval. when my beloved Nissan Pathfinder – faithful a metre or two! friend over 15 or 16 years – finally decided to Soon the motor was fired up and we were After a 10-minute ride upstream, Steve die. I did ask myself if this was some sort of reversing out of the backwater into the main nosed the tinny slowly into another backwater punishment from God, or Eugenie Sage, for channel. in the forest, tied the painter (nautical term for going whitebaiting. This was sensational – and because it had the rope at the front) to a tree and from here Anyway, once we had got the Pathfinder stopped raining, I could enjoy it fully. it was a very short walk to a grassed clearing tragedy sorted out and the Navigator and I We entered the main body of the river just with our accommodation. arrived at our destination in the diminutive 250 metres or so from where it ran into the Mitsubishi Mirage, our backup car, I was Tasman Sea where we could see surf of con- There is actually a collection of four buildings feeling even more in two minds. siderable size and height trying to beat rocks – the main block which is an entry room with It was raining. Heavily. West Coast-at-its- the size of young mountains to pieces. The shower off it, kitchen and a bedroom. There’s best heavy. alarming part was that we seemed to actually a one-bedroom sleep-out and a storage shed, From the end of the track that we turned be below the level of the beach and the surf! plus an outhouse which I expected to be a onto from the main highway, for most people The river was broad and dark – that dark long drop, but found a flush dunny instead! it’s a 20-minute walk to the hut through dark, water you get on the West Coast, stained by primeval rainforest of the sort best known Water is collected off the roof and out of to dinosaurs. But because of my knee issue, the river. special ‘arrangements’ had been made. Steve was to meet us in his Jeep and we’d crash our Electricity is supplied by a generator, but way through a small river and along a bush trail to the mouth of the secret river where he’d have his tinny (small aluminium boat with outboard) waiting to take us up the river to the hut. From the moment we arrived and started making mad dashes back and forth from our Mirage to his Jeep with our bags and provisions, I knew that we were in for something special. Firstly we struggled into the plastic ponchos that we’d bought from a Two Dollar shop so that we didn’t drown in the rain – and that achieved, it stopped raining! I thought of Alan Sherman’s song Hello Mudder, Hello Fadder. Steve’s tinny was parked in a small boat harbour on a small backwater of the secret 36 RV Lifestyle-NZTODAY Vol 5 July–August 2020

9 11 12 10 7. A place of refuge from the outside world. But there is still grass to be cut 8. The simple cooking facilities – but getting the ‘new’ range in was a mission! 9. The Navigator and Pauline pause while knocking up some ultra-fresh whitebait sammies in the hut on the stand they were operating 10. Pauline and the Navigator sorting the writer’s catch 11.The Navigator measuring out the writer’s catch 12. A modest whitebait sandwich cooked fresh on the spot strip lighting is by solar, and cooking (and the all-enveloping silence of the wilderness. So saying he put the white ‘sight strips’ in water heating) is taken care of by a coal range Next day we were going to be on the river, the water and then put the scoop net in the that burns wood. water just behind them, balancing the long so it was early to bed and early(ish) to rise handle on a couple of rocks. Recently, Steve replaced the original range with a stunning dawn chorus acting as an which had simply burned out with age, and alarm clock. Steve was up before us and off I knew enough to keep a watch on the getting the ‘new’ enamelled one in was no manning the stand he and Pauline operate a sighting strips to see when (“or if ” I thought, easy matter. couple of hundred metres down river. as I have never been a successful fisherman) there were fish passing by. “At first I contemplated having it lowered One of the few rules governing whitebait- in by helicopter,” says Steve. “But eventually ing is that ‘thou shalt never leave your net Distraction: Several years ago (with my fish- I partly dismantled it and used a sack barrow unattended, otherwise the bogey man wilt ing history being one fish caught off the Picton with a lot of muscle power.” get thou’. So after breakfast Pauline went off wharf when I was eight years of age) I was in to relieve Steve who came back to set me up. Taupō on a car launch, and we had a fishing Steve is a tough bloke. expedition lined up on a charter boat. Because Taken all round, this would have been luxury My ‘pozzy’ was just 50 metres from the it was my birthday I was given the ‘honour’ of accommodation a hundred years ago, but for hut through a forest of flax and a bog – my having first cast. It was explained to me that my today’s softies like us this is very much back gumboots became my best friends over the line was taken by weight to the bottom and that to basics – particularly when you step off the next two days. Steve had identified a narrow a length of line with hook trailed along behind grass patch and into the dark bush. strip of bank where there was a camp chair in order to increase the chances of catching Because we had been expected the night already in place and the choice of two nets. something to the ‘certainty’ level. before, Pauline had cooked a magnificent roast of lamb which was simply re-heated “River’s a bit low for the set net,” Steve “Yippee! Got a bite!” I shouted about five and we sat down to a wonderful repast in opined. “So we’ll get you cracking with the seconds after casting. I wound it in and there scoop net.” RV Lifestyle-NZTODAY Vol 5 July–August 2020 37

LIFESTYLE Whitebaiting WEST COAST was a reasonably big trout on the end of my whitebait into my bucket! the river, managed to recover enough balance line not looking as though he was enjoying the I hadn’t seen these little creatures struggling to only get half wet! experience at all. away at the back of my net and I had really When Steve arrived an hour later I had Being honest, I thought we were doing a missed the whole point of the ‘scoop net’; I mostly dried out in the warm sun and had catch-and-release, so I was horrified when should have been remaining alert, peering scooped about 15 or 20 cupsful up and into our fishing guide whacked poor Mister Trout at the sight boards and when a shoal crossed my bucket! I felt I was now a confirmed ’baiter on the head with a short, heavy tube and five and headed into the net I should have scooped who could swap yarns with the best of them. minutes later he was sushi being tucked into them out immediately! I thought they would by my fellow travellers. I was so mortified by have stayed in the back of the net. I was a hunter-gatherer! what I had seen I had none. Instead I went to “How are you going?” Steve asked, perhaps a quiet corner of the deck and silently told the “That’s what happens with the longer set with the expectation that there’d be nothing rest of the trout still in the lake how very sorry net,” said Pauline. “They get trapped, but in after Pauline’s report back of my lack of under- I was. So, that’s what sort of fisherman I was. the scoop net, they will eventually find their standing of the art of ’baiting with a scoop Now back to the feature story. way out.” net. “Oh, you have done well, haven’t you?” I gleamed! My chest swelled and I gave a I sat in my chair, silly hat on my head, read- Probably about 20 cupsful of whitebait can couple of fist pumps, but only in my mind ing a book and keeping an occasional watch thank my stupidity for escaping and making it as I didn’t want to show too much emotion! on the sight strips and the back of the scoop up river to become whatever it is that whitebait “Right, the river’s high enough now for the net. I also had an empty bucket into which become. However, this incident triggered set net,” Steve said, and put in place this long ‘my catch’ was to be placed. About an hour the hunter-gatherer in me and after Pauline device that traps the little fry right in the back. passed and I have to say I was quite enjoying and the Navigator left, I put Mr Johnson to I could have returned to Boris’s father, the experience – and it was a good book (the one side and stood on the riverbank, peering but instead I now sat in my chair watching, autobiography of Stanley Johnson, father of intently at the sight strips, tensed and ready intrigued at every shoal that came up the British Prime Minister, Boris) – when Pauline to spring into action with the scoop net once river, across the sighting strips and into my and the Navigator came to bring me lunch I saw a shoal head into my trap. net. Not the net, my net! and to check on me. Yes, there was a touch of sympathy for I discovered my killer instinct. these little creatures who had made it from “How is it going? Caught anything?” I became so keen that after one especially so far away, through the surf, into the river I answered in the negative. large shoal swam across my sight strips I forgot and past the big stands and almost into the “Let’s have a look – oh yes you have,” said about my crook knee, put some weight on it, it safety of the lake a kilometre or two further Pauline as she pulled my scoop net out of gave way and I started to fall! I wobbled about, away. They had shown remarkable dedication the water and poured about five cupsful of waving my arms trying to regain balance, but realising it was a lost cause and I was going in 38 RV Lifestyle-NZTODAY Vol 5 July–August 2020

13 to the cause by travelling so far, and there 14 13. The Navigator finds a bog! seemed to be a method to their progress. Every also oiled and salted, to cook with the lamb. A 13. The hut is surrounded by primeval so often, the leaders would signal a rest and side dish of minted peas was on order. rainforest and the occasional deer is spotted they’d hover in the one spot, wriggling their bodies just enough to hold station against the I had rave reviews and took three bows! This season, it’s been selling at $60/kg, but current. Once they’d got their breath back, Same start next morning – Steve off early, instead of selling it, we brought the lot home, away they’d surged. woken by the spectacular dawn chorus singing put the almost 60 bags in the deep freeze and Morning has Broken, breakfast and down to the are surprising friends with a gift of them. Where I was fishing was right at the end river for five hours of blissful solitude under of the legally allowed fishing zone – so they my silly hat, peering at the white sight strips What made the time on this secret river were unlucky I was there. and watching the whitebait. so special? We took a break, with Steve taking us out At around 4.30pm the rest of the team joined in the tinny down to the river mouth and The experience of pure wilderness was a me, and I watched while Steve, the expert, lifted within 50 metres of the pounding surf. Then great part of it. So was the company of lovely the end of my net from the water, expressed back to finish off the day with another hour friends. But so too was the time spent in such surprise at the size of the catch, undid the ties or two at the net. a fantastic location, by myself, my silly hat, the and poured it into my bucket. This time, I didn’t wait for Steve; rather I sun, the peace, the solitude and the success lifted the net out, undid the strings and poured of the catch. I was a proud ’baiter and lugged the bucket the glistening torrent of ’bait into my bucket. back through the bog in the forest of flax – not Then lifted the net out of the river, stowed it It allowed me to get over the tragedy of quite Crumpy coming out of the hills with a on the bank and trudged back through the bog losing my beloved Nissan Pathfinder (which three-tonne boar on his back, but satisfying where I presented my catch ever so proudly. one minute had been valued at about $12,000, all the same. Back at base I poured it onto the In total over the two days? Fourteen kilo- the next $1000!) – with just the tiniest hint of sorting table where off-coloured ’bait and the grams. a guilty conscience about ending the lives of odd stray cockabully were filtered off. so many whitebait. Then it was a beer outside as the sun went RV Lifestyle-NZTODAY Vol 5 July–August 2020 39 down, with the only real sound being the ‘chopper’ noise of the passing kererū as they went over our clearing to land clumsily in some trees to watch us curiously. Then three ducks arrived – a female and two males – “they’ve been coming for at least the past five years,” said Pauline. “We think it’s a mother, father and son.” Inside, the Navigator was weighing up my catch and packing it into 250gm packs. I cooked that night – lamb shanks with a sprig of rosemary, rubbed in oil and placed in a covered roasting dish in the coal range. Also into the dish went thick slices of new potatoes,

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CANTERBURY Banks Peninsula TRAVEL THE ROUGH DIAMOND Diamond Harbour knows how to sparkle. But it’s not that ‘showy’ kind of sparkle that exists here; rather it’s an understated beauty that gently twinkles. Kathy Catton investigates the delights of this Banks Peninsula village and meets some of the gems in its midst. Story Kathy Catton Photos Kathy Catton, unless otherwise credited 1 RV Lifestyle-NZTODAY Vol 5 July–August 2020 41

TRAVEL CANTERBURY Banks Peninsula 2 ations, including the obvious favourites of to locals. the rugby club, Playcentre, a bridge club and “The place has got a real village feel, and T ake a look on Trip Advisor, and you will neighbourhood association, alongside more read that Diamond Harbour is described unusual offerings such as a photography club, that appeals to many. It doesn’t feel like a as “a gem awaiting a shake-up”. And I meditation group and Tai Chi. suburb of Christchurch, and because of the get what the critics are talking about. On geographic location [being 40-minutes’ drive arrival in this approximately 2000-inhab- I spoke to Ron Dubin, IT consultant and from Christchurch’s city centre] it’s got its own itant village on the other side of the Port Hills editor of the local Diamond Harbour Herald sense of community here,” he says. to Christchurch, your first impressions might – a monthly A4 hand-folded local newspaper, lead you to believe that you have arrived at a to discover what makes the area so appealing Ron’s been living here for 12 years, and rather understated seaside hangout. One that as well as editing the local rag and website, is just far enough away to be separate from 3 its big parent of Christchurch and yet close he also runs the weekly meditation enough to warrant the drive over the hills. But group, and he volunteers at the local closer inspection reveals a peaceful getaway library. He loves the community spirit location, oozing with characters who all seem of the place and marvels at the natural to love nature, love making a difference, and beauty of the location. love community spirit. “I was brought here by the harbour Nestled on Banks Peninsula’s northern coast, and the sea. I view Diamond Harbour on the southern shores of Te Whakaraupō as lots of interacting communities (Lyttelton Harbour), the area was named all interfacing with each other,” Ron by Mark Stoddart, who is reported to have states, using his techy language. “I bought 500 acres of land in the area in 1856. remember when I first arrived, I got Comprising peripheral settlements of Church talking to a friend, Colin McLeod, Bay, Charteris Bay and Purau, the centre of the village is almost quintessentially English 1. Ready to leap! Locals love in feel, with a village cricket pitch and rugby the quiet beaches and crystal-clean waters field being surrounded by amenities such as 2.Ripapa Island, currently actively a medical centre, library, community centre, managed by DOC in partnership with Ngāi hairdressing salon and eatery. Tahu (DOC) 3. Autumn driveway: A stunning entrance It’s this sense of community that stands this to Orton Bradley Park (Orton Bradley Park) place apart. Think of any club, and Diamond 4. Orton Bradley’s rhododendrons in all Harbour has probably got it. The local phone their glory directory lists a total of 49 clubs and associ- (Orton Bradley Park) 42 RV Lifestyle-NZTODAY Vol 5 July–August 2020

in the library. He mentioned they needed 4 at the Lyttelton Information Centre, and I often volunteer librarians with some IT skills, and “There is always something interesting to suggest to visitors to Lyttelton to take a trip before you knew it, I was involved.” look at, and the art space is booked up two across the harbour on the ferry and check out years in advance,” states Karen. She and the the sunny side of the harbour.” And there are plenty of residents who operate Stoddart Cottage Trust members were instru- the same way. A fundamental philosophy of mental in working with the city council and a Orton Bradley Park is another gem in the ‘ask the questions, get involved, invite others’ historic building company to bring about the sun-drenched basket of the harbour. The exists here. restoration of the cottage. Karen prides herself 650-hectare private country park offers fan- in being part of this very active community. tastic walking tracks that provide a variety of Stoddart Cottage is one such example of how “It’s a magical spot,” says Karen. “I also work terrain and vistas, including small waterfalls, the community have mucked in and embraced this little piece of history. The cottage was built in 1862 and is the oldest building still standing in the village – Godley House, built in 1880, was critically damaged in the 2011 earthquakes and subsequently demolished. In 1990, the quaint colonial cottage was registered by the New Zealand Historic Places Trust as a Category One historic building. The famous New Zealand impressionist artist Margaret Stoddart grew up in the cottage. “It’s a beautiful spot,” says Karen Colyer, who has lived in Diamond Harbour since 2001, and is Secretary on the Stoddart Cottage Trust. “A few of us formed a co-op for the cottage, had a few garage sales to raise some funds, and by 2017 we had it re-opened after the quake damage.” Open to the public Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, the cottage is home to monthly art exhibitions and a small shop displaying handmade crafts. B2B RV LTD NO JOB IS TOO BIG, OR SMALL Back 2 Basics FOR B2B RV! B2B RV was established five years unit was added to the initial 2kw started to increase. Cheryl left her Orders are placed regularly, so stock ago with Peter doing Pre Purchase Heater range. All heaters are held in job and came into the office to free is always current. Inspections and mobile repairs from stock in NZ, and we carry a full range up Peters time to finish jobs. Within home. This proved popular, and he of spare parts in our store. 2019 six months of the move we employed Remember, we also carry out all started taking in jobs that could bought the diesel-fired Combi unit our first worker who is now 2IC, and other types of work involved with be done in the back yard as well as into the range with a combined 6kw we have two more workers. RVs. We have considerable expertise also looking after his 6-month-old air heater and 10-litre water heater. in solar installations, water tanks, grandson full time. 2020 saw the manufacturers rebrand Our diesel heaters have really taken Self-containment work as well as to JP Heating. off with us installing at least two ev- having two qualified CSC inspectors Next came the Diesel Heaters. After ery week which means we now have in both NZMCA and APC (we cover a fairly long search, Belief branded He soon outgrew the yard so 18 a very experienced worker installing the full range of vehicles). We even heaters were selected as the best months ago Peter moved the busi- diesel heaters. We just don’t seem rebuild if needed. option available from China. These ness into our premises at 236D Main to be able to keep up with orders as heaters quickly proved to be very South Road, Hornby. This proved to they are snapped up and booked in No job is too big or small, and we try successful and reliable, and a 5kw be a prudent move, as the work soon for installation as soon as they land. every endeavour to help. Diesel Combi Air/ Water Unit Diesel Heater unit B2B RV Ltd 236D Main South Road, Hornby, Christchurch, Canterbury 8042 NZ Call us on 027 675 7101 Or go to: b2brv.co.nz RV Lifestyle-NZTODAY Vol 5 July–August 2020 43

TRAVEL CANTERBURY Banks Peninsula massive exotic trees, farmland, native regen- 5 6 erating bush and harbour views. For families with children, it’s an excellent opportunity to 5. Mount Bradley sits high explore the streams, build dams, check for bugs above Orton Bradley Park and climb trees. And for extended families, it (Orton Bradley Park) provides a perfect place to have picnics. There 6.Summer wharf-jumping, are activities for all generations, from historic loved by young and old buildings and machinery to the extensive 7.Orton Bradley is home to rhododendron gardens, arboretum and café. many examples of machinery from yesteryear Ian Luxford, Park Manager, says he loves (Orton Bradley Park) the fact that this country park exists so close to Christchurch. “There is so much beauty 7 preserve this in partnership with Ngāi Tahu. here,” he smiles. “I love the walk up the valley Tahu until around 1832 when the chief of Te Our two biggest challenges for the island are following Te Wharau stream, with the sunlight Whakarukeruke left to help defend Kaiapoi how we can improve public access so that highlighting the boulders and the water. I also against Te Rauparaha. The island is therefore of more people enjoy the island and also how do constantly have to remind myself to look up particular significance to Ngāi Tahu as a place we obtain the resources to protect the island’s to appreciate the mature trees in the park. The of memories associated with these battles and fabric and tell the stories of the island and bring 50-metre high gums, and the massive redwoods the ancestors who died in them. It is also for the island to life and acknowledge its past.” and oaks, to name but a few. Other favourites for this reason that visitors are asked not to eat me include the gardens in the spring after rain, while on the island, as this denigrates the tapu Whether it’s a day trip or a longer séjour, with the smell of flowers and damp earth. And (sacred) status of the land. Today, the hapū it’s worth checking Diamond Harbour out. the kererū (New Zealand pigeon) doing their of Ngāti Wheke, based at Rāpaki across the Summer highlights include ‘Live at the Point’, display-flying is always mesmerising, as is the harbour, are the guardians of Ripapa. a series of Sunday afternoon free live music change in colours of the exotic trees in autumn.” events, accompanied by food vendors and Only accessible by boat or kayak, the island local children’s stalls of cup-cakes and hand- Many visitors come to Diamond Harbour was used as a quarantine station from 1873 to made bracelets. Winter highlights include from Christchurch for a day trip. They either 1885, and in 1880 the island was used tempo- the warmth of the sun on a still Canterbury drive or catch the Black Cat passenger ferry rarily as a prison. The quarantine buildings were morning. Weather experts tell me it’s a little like that runs a regular service to coincide with dismantled when the island was incorporated a climate microcosm here, with temperatures the Christchurch bus network. It’s an ideal into the coastal defence scheme around 1886 typically five degrees warmer than its big sister starting point for an active day. From the wharf, due to a ‘Russian scare’. A walled fort was built hub, Christchurch. If you can cope with the it’s a steady climb up to Mount Herbert, the and occupied by the army until the end of fact that it’s a little rugged around the edges, highest point on the peninsula, where you are World War I and re-occupied again during you might just see the beauty that settles here. rewarded with a stunning unbroken view up World War II as part of the harbour defences. the coast to Kaikōura. For the more sedate The island has been managed by the Depart- Like so much that Banks Peninsula has to visitor, there’s always the option to saunter to ment of Conservation (DOC) since 1990 and offer, Diamond Harbour is not widely known one of the local beaches, which are typically has an “actively managed” status. outside the region. It’s certainly off the tourist near-empty and rival any other in the country. track for now. Locals love the advantages of a Or for the thrill-seeking there is the semi-rit- “We ask people visiting not to climb the big city close by, but that it’s far enough away ualistic wharf-jumping, that takes place in the walls,” says Andy Thompson, Operations to have its own identity and sparkle. For them, summer months by most teenage locals. And Manager at DOC. “We recognise the histori- there’s nowhere else quite like it. all in good spirit and warm-heartedness. cal significance of the island, and we want to For visitors by sea, tucked close to the shore of the harbour, is Ripapa Island. Originally the site of a fortified pā for Ngāi Tahu, later a fortress was built on the island to defend against possible Russian attacks. According to the stories, the pā was constructed in the early nineteenth century by Taununu, a Ngāi Tahu chief who had moved south from Kaikōura. Several skirmishes were fought on the shores of the island. It remained occupied by Ngāi Beer & Coffee! We use local produce where possible with local wines and local craft beer on tap. Legendary service! 90 Commercial Street, Golden Bay Ph: 03 525 9636 | E: [email protected] 44 RV Lifestyle-NZTODAY Vol 5 July–August 2020

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CYCLE + WALK TRAILS Taupō CENTRAL PLATEAU Profile A GREAT RIDE Cartographer and trail designer Gary Patterson has mapped his way around the globe from subantarctic islands to back-country bike trails on every continent. He returned home for an epic adventure, riding all 22 NZ Cycle Trails Great Rides to make a mobile app. The Great Rides App is the only mobile app for the trails, and can be freely downloaded from the app stores. Follow his travels to inspire, plan and to help you on your own journey. J ust like Goldilocks testing beds to find pedal stroke closer to fulfilling this request. bike – a bit of comfort for the long day ahead. her preferred softness, my feet found their However, this was not going to be all work and Leaving the Hub I turn on the GPS units soothing ‘just right’ warm waters beside no play. I couldn’t wait to experience these cycle the Taupō Trails. Fortunately reaching trails for the first time, to pass beside the Huka and plot my way north, keen to reach one end this natural hot spring along the cycle Falls, Aratiatia Rapids and the great lake. What of the river loop at the dam before the day’s trail did not involve encountering three cyclist wouldn’t want to ride along our largest first release of water to the Aratiatia Rapids. bears but instead was rather an enjoyable jour- lake, longest river and biggest falls in one go? The trail start is far from rapid; my pace is ney through the woods on a big ride. Yes, it’s initially slow as the vegetated track is narrow, going to be a big day, as the 50km Taupō trails I start my ride at the Hub – appropriately tight and winding. Soon the trail straightens consist of riverside loops and a lakefront ride named as it’s the cycling centre for the river and heads along the top of the riverbank forming a network of potential track data for rides and the access point to the Craters Moun- nearing Wairakei, but the straight is only brief the Great Rides App. I need to capture this data tain Bike Park. In front of me is Four B At The as the trail then descends down into a creek on my bike-mounted GPSs, but doubling back Hub – this a well-equipped local bike shop that catchment that feels remote. Here steam wafts to map for the app will have me completing rents a range of bicycles for all kinds of riders through the forest as if in some enchanted an 80 kilometre, eight-hour ride. heading out to the bike park or other rides. The fairy tale. I stop and bend down to touch the riverside and lakeside rides I will visit today creek’s gentle flow. “Ouch, she’s hot!” I say out The idea of riding this trail had been in the are a mix of easy to intermediate cross-coun- loud – feeling a little silly that I am surprised making for a few years after some riders asked try trails. So Jonny, the owner of Four B At by this fact. I ride on, following the super-hot for the Taupō track network to be included as The Hub, meets me in the early morning and waters upstream through the scrub and onto a bonus ride on the app I built. Today I am one fits me out with a full-suspension mountain the main road. Crossing a bridge I am instantly 46 RV Lifestyle-NZTODAY Vol 5 July–August 2020

The Goldilocks Waters A big day out looping the falls and rapids of the Waikato River plus a peaceful ride along the shores of Lake Taupō Story Gary Patterson Photos Gary Patterson or as credited 1 taken aback by the massive pipes passing under release. What is more alarming is that I hav- 1. People dwarfed by the scale of the Huka Falls me. Like an outdoor industrial-scale artwork, en’t yet heard the pre-warning dam release I cross the dam. Now I am on the opposite they rise vertically upwards in unison before siren and have yet to see the river widen into plunging back down to convey hot steam to a lake! A few minutes pass as I push hard to bank of the Waikato River and start to head the Wairakei power station. I soon pass the make it on time, and with the river over my back upstream – destination Lake Taupō. historic power plant that just over 50 years ago right shoulder beginning to widen into a lake, The trail here is a little rough but enjoyable was only the second in the world to harness I reach the dam walls just in time for the 15 through the forest with the river beside me. the earth’s geothermal potential and the first to minute spectacle. While I am the only rider, The day is starting to warm up too, and at one use wet steam for electricity production. I leave I am not alone here. Beside me are family point I detour to access the river. I consider a the white wafting vapour clouds of Wairakei groups and other visitors leaning over the rail short dip to cool off. Nope … I test the water behind me as I am about to experience another watching the dam release enormous volumes and admit it’s just too cold for me. I pedal on. dramatic outpouring of renewable power just of water into the relatively dry river canyon. Soon after a couple of hill climbs, I reach an a few kilometres downstream. Mere moments later the pool below the dam elevated lookout over the river. Here there fills with water and overflows into the rocky are views across to the Wairakei power plant It seems time’s middle hand is turning faster gorge before swallowing the riddled honeycomb and the prawn park that uses geothermal heat than my pedalling. ‘Oh dear! Oh dear! I shall hollows. Watching the calm blue hue turn into to keep these critters warm. Unlike me, they be too late!’ runs through my head. Delays pounding white water is mesmerising and a real seem to have found the perfect waterhole. while taking photos and marking waypoints highlight at the far end of this trail network. After dropping down the terrace via a series of for the app have put me behind time to reach There is power in that water. switchbacks I pass under the highway bridge to the Aratiatia Dam before the scheduled water RV Lifestyle-NZTODAY Vol 5 July–August 2020 47

CYCLE + WALK TRAILS Taupō CENTRAL PLATEAU 23 the Huka Falls. They say you can hear the falls of water gushing out per second, (per second!) cross-country riding at its greatest; however, before you see them, and they are right. I find it is understandable why this is our country’s the best is yet to come! The trail forks just past myself alone at one of the downstream viewing most popular natural attraction. a climbing track and the one-way trail suddenly points, but just a 100 metres upstream of me drops, so I let Jonny’s bike loose and hang on people crowd the viewing platforms, straining Away from the crowds and cascading waters, tight to the reins. What an exhilarating narrow for a view of the gushing water. From where I continue to cycle along the Rotary Ride that is gulch. Plummeting down the trail eats me up I stand the people look the size of shrimps full of surprises. This bit of the trail excites me again, swoops me through a series of dramatic compared to the thundering mass of water that as I enter a creek canyon which becomes a lofty turns deep into the bowels of the earth before squeezes through the volcanic chute and into steep-sided ravine. In a moment it consumes rocketing me out onto the flats at the loveliest a pool below. With a quarter of a million litres me before spitting me back out onto the river of clear springs. Still panting from this wild, terrace like some discarded cherry pit. This is 48 RV Lifestyle-NZTODAY Vol 5 July–August 2020