RMF-NZToday RV Lifestyle Vol 15

Vol. BE IN TO WIN AN E-BIKE FROM WICKEDWHEELS Valued at $2,250 15 Heartland Journeys Walk & Cycle Trails Road Trips Reviews NZTODAY RV Lifestyle | MAR-APR 2022 VOL. 15 MAR-APR 2022 Kerikeri • Matauri Bay • Doubtless Bay • Vintage Collection • Waiotahe CT • 4 Peaks HC Track • Mackenzie country • Southern Odyssey • Rakiura Track • Cub Camper • TrailLite Elddis • Home-build Bus • Caspar Coast-Coast Mackenzie country Stars, hot pools & Icebergs Walk & cycle trails Ōpōtiki Waiotahe cycle trail opens Doubtless Bay 4 pā sites-reserves-beach tracks Historical Kerikeri walks Four Peaks High-Country track Rakiura Track Great Walk Travel & Lifestyle Matauri Bay’s French connection Southern Odyssey road trip, Matthews Vintage Collection WIN WITH CASP OUCHERTERISLANDER V UK Elddis Cub Frontier Home- AR joins TrailLite Camper trailer build bus $500 IN conversion

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Road Trips, Lifestyles and Destinations CONTENTS 7 Mailbag – letters and emails to the editor VOLUME 15 March-April 2022 12 NI Northland Kerikeri – exploring Puketi Kauri Forest, art trails and local walks 23 NI Northland Matauri Bay – exploring a link to spies, espionage and a nuclear incident 28 NI Northland Museum – Matthews Vintage Collection, a mini wonderland and treasure trove of gems 46 SI Mackenze – Tekapo to Mt Cook – Pristine night skies, breathtaking mountains and icebergs in luscious blue lakes 60 SI Otago to Southland – Allan Dick goes on a Southern Odyssey Walk and Cycle Trails 18 NI Far North Doubtless Bay – a walk that combines two reserves, four pā sites and a beautiful beach 32 NI EBOP Ōpōtiki – Waiotahe cycle trail, a ride that opened recently as part of the Motu Trails 40 SI Canterbury – Four Peaks High-Country Track – Gary heads to the oldest surviving hut in the country 52 SI Rakiura Great Walk – three-day Great Walk that offers a sample of Stewart Island’s national park paradise Reviews – Profiles 82 Profile – Australian Cub Frontier Camper Trailer checked out BOOKS 89 Reader – Meet Richard, and the start of a 2012 bus conversion journey TO BE WON 96 Profile – TrailLite acquires UK Elddis RVs FROM p73 Advertorials 80 RV Mega 87 Vantage RV 92 Van Lab 93 Select caravans 95 Levin RV 101 B2B services 102 DroneTech Regular – Competitions – Marketplace 71 Road Kai – road recipes and a new cookbook to be won RV PETS 73 RV Books – latest release books to be won WIN $500 INTERISLANDER FERRY VOUCHER 76 Subscribe – save $s, plus win with Wicked Wheels SEE p112 Caspar’s Caper s 103 Marketplace and RV Trade Directories 110 Caspar Capers – win with Hale Animal Health and Interislander

4 Vol 12 SEPT-OCT 2021

EDITOR’S Letter to Readers ISSN 2703-2477 (Print) ISSN 2703-2485 (Online) Cooler autumn nights RV-NZTODAY Lifestyle Vol 15 March-April 2022 A utumn weather is coming, though the clock selling for more today than they sold for www.rvlifestyle.co.nz long-range forecast indicates more warm, as brand spanking new – but not a great time humid weather through March is possible. to be trying to buy one that is for sure. EDITOR It is probably bad luck to wish for some Robyn Mountain, [email protected] We have packed this issue as full as can ADVERTISING MANAGER cooler weather, but the occasional cooler night be with great places to explore, places to get Bruce Mountain, [email protected] this week has been so welcome. excited about and put on your must-do list. 021 657 090, Auckland Office 09 296 2926 We are certainly in a state of flux right now Allan Dick holidayed in Southland and shares SUB-EDITING & PROOFING here in New Zealand – our alert levels for his Southern Odyssey trip with readers. Gary Thiers Halliwell, Allan Walton Covid-19 have changed from February  24, Patterson heads across the Strait to Stew- DESIGN Cameron Leggett and today as we go to print we saw 6137 cases art Island and a three-day adventure on the CONTRIBUTORS Contributors Sheryl Bainbridge, announced. I think the next few months will Rakiura Great Walk. Further up the coun- Kathy Catton, Robyn Dallimore, Allan Dick, Jane be the toughest yet as a huge percentage of the try in Canterbury Gary does the Four Peaks Dove Juneau, Richard Longley, Gary Patterson, population will be affected by sickness, and High-Country Track and visits the oldest hut Skye Wishart, Helen Yuretich staying at home to work and learn will be prev- in the country. In Northland Sheryl takes COVER PHOTO BY: Glacier Explorers and Tekapo alent. It is a tough, tough time to be in business. us up and down the trails of Doubtless Bay, Star Gazing For any business right now the uncertainty giving a history lesson along the way. Down in OBC PHOTO BY: Bruce Mountain - Ashburton levels are out of control and so many are tee- the Eastern Bay of Plenty the Motu Trail has SUBSCRIPTIONS & ADMINISTRATION tering on the edge of survival. As publishers a new extension opened, the Waiotahe cycle Subscriptions Manager Laura Atkinson we have had huge price increases (over 40 per trail near Ōpōtiki, an exciting addition that [email protected] cent) for postal mail-outs for subscriptions. will help keep visitors in the area longer. Kathy Phone enquiries: 06 306 6041 Paper stock has been on the move price-wise Catton headed to Mackenzie country for a star Mon to Fri – Office hours 10am to 3pm for the last year, shipments are months late, gazing and hot pool adventure before heading SUBSCRIPTION RATES and now a new 6 per cent Energy Tax has been to Aoraki/Mt Cook to take a boat trip out on One year $49.95 (6 issues) put on publishers. The cover price on the mag- a lake that is simply unbelievable. Bruce and I Australia/Pacific $90 (6 issues) azine will be increasing in the near future as a have done this trip – the fact that we have ice- Rest of World $150 (6 issues) consequence. bergs, and big ones, here in New Zealand that Full online website access $25 1 year For us the advertising pays the print bill, so we can be around is brilliant, and therefore a RV-NZTODAY LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE the quality of the paper stock, number of pages must-do activity for the South Island. IS PUBLISHED BY and quality of editorial is dependent on this I wish us all well for the next few months RnR Publishing Limited symbiotic relationship with advertisers. The readers. I trust you will get some enjoyment PO Box 220 tourism industry is in dire straits and needs all and relaxation from these pages. We will take Martinborough, the support it can get from travellers. Magazine you out of the present reality and help you plan Wairarapa 5711 editorials like ours that stimulate and inspire a new one for down the track a bit. Main office Ph: 06 306 6030 readers to plan trips are important to them, but Take care of yourselves first, and then those Auckland Sales office: 09 296 2926 their ability to support us in return has become around you, be safe. Mail: PO Box 220, Martinborough very challenging. 28 Oxford Street, Martinborough, 5711 The RV industry has difficulties of its own, Robyn, Bruce and Caspar Mountain PUBLISHERS even though sales may be through the strato- Editor – Publisher – Sidekick RV Lifestyle dog Bruce Mountain, [email protected] sphere for both new and used motorhomes and Robyn Mountain, [email protected] caravan sales. There are problems with PRINTING cab chassis manufacturing overseas; for OVATO example, one manufacturer cancelled DISTRIBUTION over 17,000 chassis from the line, due Gordon and Gotch to supply chain issues with components like computer chips, parts for fridges NOTICE TO ADVERTISERS or heating units and at one point fabric RnR Publishing Ltd uses due care and diligence in the from India., Factors such as these are preparation of this magazine, but is not responsible affecting production across so many or liable for any mistakes, misprints, omissions layers of supply it is mind boggling. or typographical errors. RnR Publishing Ltd prints Then there are the shipping delays, and advertisements provided to the publisher, but gives no the fact that online shopping has grown warranty and makes no representation to the truth, exponentially worldwide, which has accuracy or sufficiency of any description, photograph seen an explosion of courier companies or statement. RnR Publishing Ltd accepts no liability for buying up delivery vehicles – again part any loss that may be suffered by any person who relies of the cab chassis supply chain. either wholly or in part upon any description, photograph We camped at Lake Maraetai Reserve, in Mangakino. These or statement contained herein. Advertisers are advised that all advertising must conform to the ASA Codes of It’s a great time to sell your RV if young fellas were having a great time reading a fabulous magazine New Zealand Advertising; full details and codes book you are no longer using it – I see 2019 at the Bus Stop Café next to us. Great bacon & egg buttie for available from asa.co.nz. RnR Publishing Ltd reserves models with a few kilometres on the breakfast with our coffee. Story in Vol 16. the right to refuse any advertisement for any reason. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher or editor. All material gathered in creating NZTODAY RV Lifestyle magazine is copyright 2021 RnR Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved in all media. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without the express written permission of the publisher. Please check our website www.RnRPublishing.co.nz for a full Terms and Conditions of advertising schedule. MAR-APR 2022 Vol 15 5



G ood afternoon, and Happy New Year! MAIL BAG I was amazed when I collected my mail yesterday to find I had won the book A MAIL BAG Painted Journey. What a lovely book it is, and I thank you very much, it made my day. The Please send your little Ophir PO on the cover we visited several feedback, letters and years ago and sent a postcard to our daughter in the UK. I even got to hand frank the stamp suggestions to myself! Very special. [email protected] Always look forward to my NZTODAY arriving in the mail. Warm regards Paddy Robinson ED: We love being able to promote Kiwi writ- ers, and give away their books to our readers. Thank you for your email. A Favourite Road Trip Dear Editor pig farms along the road. Just off the road at The top of the pass is not signposted and it In response to Allan Dick in NZTO- Cave is the very pretty stone church which is easy to be over it without realising it until DAY-RV Lifestyle Vol 14 request for is signposted from the road. It is well worth suddenly starting to descend. After a short readers’ favourite road trips, ours below. the effort to see inside it but permission must time the vast Mackenzie Basin comes into be obtained together with a key. At Albury view and on a sharp corner stands the Mack- Since settling in Geraldine some six years there is the old pub which is currently being enzie Memorial. This is reputed to be where ago we have explored many places in the restored. Just after Albury is the turn off for that famous ‘cattle rustler’ James Mackenzie South Island but one of our favourite trips the Mackenzie Pass. The road gradually winds was apprehended and later escaped. Whether has been the ‘three passes’. and climbs through rolling farmland and then he was a rustler or not is somewhat open to starts to climb further into tussock country. conjecture so the real truth is a bit elusive. From Geraldine or Timaru it is an easy drive to Pleasant Point with its railway res- toration including the model-T railcar and steam engine. From there towards Fairlie it is pleasant farmland and the traces of the old railway formation can readily be seen from time to time. There is the odd embankment and a few old bridges, but the farmers have gradually hidden much of the line under pas- tures. If you like pigs, there are several large Model T Ford railcar at Pleasant Point The Mackenzie Cairn MAR-APR 2022 Vol 15 7

Top of Hakataramea Pass View from the top of the Hakataramea Pass Heading down from the Hakataramea Pass Heading down from the Hakataramea Pass From here it is mostly straight to a junc- thereby exposing one side of the pass to the several options to return home and we usually tion with the road from Dog Kennel Corner southerly weather. The wind at the top can choose to go to Alexandra for a night before (between Fairlie and Tekapo) to the Haldon be quite extreme. Over the pass and the 1862 continuing our journey. Arm on Lake Benmore. Turning left here Dansey’s Pass Hotel comes into view. It has This is a great trip mostly on gravel roads takes us to the turnoff to the Hakataramea been very well restored and maintained and with little traffic but usually on good surfaces. Pass. This is a much longer road with a is quite a popular ‘get away from it all’ place. After winter the Dansey’s Pass Road can get a number of fords which are usually dry but Nearby are the Kyeburn diggings which show little rough because of the traffic but generally some of the approaches and departures need the destruction of the landscape caused by the it is no trouble for a car. This trip is different, a little care. They are easily negotiated by a car. search for gold. Then it is into Naseby which is has a great variety of scenery, and is an alter- The road climbs up to the pass through scrub such a cute village and sports two hotels and native to the ‘touristy’ roads. and matagouri to a gate and signpost indi- feels like a European mountain village. But cating the elevation. It is worth a stop here to it has a hidden feature, the National Curling Allan and Averil Gough look out over the Mackenzie Basin as the view is magnificent with the snow-capped moun- Centre. It is well worth a visit to try curling Ed: Thanks so much for sharing your journey tains in the background. From here the road indoors. Beside it is a lake which freezes over with readers. winds down out of the high country to pass in winter and curling sometimes through farm properties in the somewhat takes place here in the ‘natural’ remote Hakataramea Valley. The countryside environment. We were lucky is quite scenic with river and stream valleys one year to watch the Bonspiel interspersing with the farms. The road comes which is the big national tour- out at Kurow in the Waitaki Valley which is nament, and was held there that a good lunch stop before continuing. This is year because the usual site at Richie McCaw country. the Idaburn Dam did not have enough ice. It was fascinating Then it is down the valley towards Dun- watching and listening to the troon past the Māori rock carvings to the skills and the banter. Despite the turnoff for Dansey’s Pass. This is probably intense competition it was a real the highest of the three passes and is better social occasion. Naseby is sur- known so has more traffic, not that there rounded by forests with many is much. This is a more obvious climb and trails for mountain bikers and descent and in winter it is often closed with walkers. From here there are Bonspiel at Naseby snow for long periods. The people at the rather attractive motor camp on the way in say that there can be up to a metre of snow on the road. Geography has a bit to do with this as the ridge line runs mainly east to west 8 Vol 15 MAR-APR 2022

PLB (personal locator beacon) prevented a potential disaster W hat should have been a two-day, safe waves and a gust of wind capsized the dinghy. boat they were in and how many were in the and well-planned adventure quickly Paul and Andy managed to scramble onto the boat. She was able to confirm they were in a turned into a potential disaster which overturned dinghy and tried unsuccessfully 11.5-foot inflatable dinghy, there were just two was averted thanks to the hired PLB, Maritime to paddle to shore. After trying to reach the men on board, and RCCNZ were relieved to NZ Rescue Coordination Centre (RCCNZ), shoreline without success, and battling the hear both men were wearing wetsuits and life- the Canterbury Westpac Rescue Helicopter, increasing gusts of wind, they decided to try jackets. A second call from RCCNZ informed and the local fishing vessel who responded and turn the dinghy back over. After a few her that the nearest vessel to their location to the mayday. attempts, with the help of wind gusts they was over an hour away, but was responding managed to flip the dingy upright. to the mayday. They advised that they would On Wednesday February 2, 2022 Paul and be sending the Westpac Rescue Helicopter to Andy launched their 11.5-foot inflatable Their two cell phones had no signal and assess the situation for immediate risk given dinghy at Birdlings Flat to make a close-to- Andy’s hand-held VHF radio on channel 16 that the nearest vessel, a commercial fishing shore trip around Banks Peninsula, with an received no response to many Pan Pan Pan boat, was so far away. When the helicopter overnight stop at Hickory Bay, before con- calls. was close by, Andy was able to talk to pilot tinuing to their final destination at Charteris using his VHF radio to advise they were unin- Bay. They were wearing full wetsuits, lifejack- They continued to row but the combina- jured, but they had capsized and lost use of ets, had a short-range VHF radio, two cell tion of the sea currents and the increasing the outboard. After a nail-biting 30-or-so phones, had tied their equipment to the boat wind gusts worked against them and slowly minutes Paul’s wife received a third call from and took the all-important PLB. The launch pulled them further out to sea. They tried to RCCNZ advising Paul and Andy were safe went well, weather was favourable and the trip restart the engine but it was waterlogged and but unable to get to shore by themselves. A was relatively smooth until they were heading showed no signs of life. It was getting close to fourth call from RCCNZ advised Paul’s wife around Pompeys Pillar. dusk and they knew a small dinghy would be the helicopter was remaining close by until even harder to find in the dark. They made the fishing vessel arrived – which would be in The outboard motor prop became tangled the decision to activate the PLB. approximately 30 minutes. The fishing vessel with a piece of rope debris and stopped. They had difficulty seeing them in the waves but were approximately 30 metres away from Paul’s wife received a phone call from cliffs. While trying to clear the prop, larger RCCNZ advising the PLB had been activated. Oh shit! They required further details of the

Andy was able to use the short-range VHF the alarm would have been raised by Paul’s Hi Robyn radio to guide the fishing vessel to them. The wife. Searching for a 11.5-foot dinghy adrift Yes my NZ mag arrived this week and fifth call from RCCNZ advised Paul’s wife for 24 hours in the ocean would have been a would you believe it I sat and read it but both men and the dinghy had been success- very difficult task. had to put it down to get my meals and I fin- fully transferred to the fishing vessel and they Because they were staying close to shore on ished it last night late. It is a super read and were heading to Akaroa main wharf with an this boating adventure, they had discussed I enjoyed the Catlins story. I have only been ETA of 90 minutes. whether it was even necessary to hire a PLB through there once years ago and that story Paul’s wife hooked up their trailer, threw – thank goodness they did! They cannot was so interesting and some of those motor- some extra strops in the truck and headed to stress enough the importance of taking a PLB homes are stunning. I enjoyed Allan Dick’s Akaroa to pick them up. Andy was able to whenever you are venturing into remote areas story but he was lucky he didn’t freeze to phone her when they finally had cell phone – $15/day is a very small price to pay when it death in that snow, again all very interesting. coverage, and she was able to tell him she was can save your life. Be prepared for the unex- Thank you for putting together such a lovely already en route to Akaroa with the trailer pected. Cell phones and radios are not always glossy mag, well done, it is a lot of work. to get them. Paul’s wife arrived in Akaroa enough to raise the alarm. 10 minutes before the fishing vessel arrived, All the best for Christmas and for 2022. and soon after received her sixth call from John Munro Many thanks Kind regards RCCNZ saying the fishing vessel had arrived ED: Thanks John a great item to carry on the Shirley Charlett in Akaroa – she was able to respond that she water, and for those hikers, bikers and off-road was already there. ED: Thanks so much for your email Shir- The hired PLB and all the associated rescue adventurers. ley, all our writers will appreciate your words. Allan has stepped up to a campervan in the last services all played a part in preventing what month, hopefully it has a heater! could have been a fatal adventure. Andy, Paul and their families cannot express how grateful they are to everyone who played a part in the successful rescue. Without the PLB none of these services would have been triggered into action and it could STAY SAFE INhave been a full 24 hours later – when they THE OUTDOORSwere due to arrive in Charteris Bay – before Take a locator beacon with you when you are hunting, hiking or working anywhere remote and make sure you will be rescued quickly STSATAYYSSAAFFEEININ THE OUTDOORSSSPPEECCIIAALLAACCRR RReessQQLLiinnkkPPLLBB- -440000 Take a locator beacon with THE OUTDOORSTake a locator beacon with you when you are hunting, hiking or you when you are hunting, hiking or working anywhere working anywhere remote and make sure you will be rescued quickly ONLYSPECIAL ACR ResQLink PLB - 400 remote and make sure you O4N8L5Y$485$ will be rescued quickly. Including P&P WHEN BUYING USE THE PROMO Comes with a heavy duty pouch Including P&P CODE: RVMAG Comes with a heavy duty pouch AVAILABLE FOR SALE OR HIRE $15 - 1 dayAVAILABLE FOR SALE OR HIRE TO RECEIVE A 5% DISCOUNT! $15 - 1 day $30 - 3 days $30 - 3 days on the purchase price of the Locator Beacon. FREFEREE $40 - 7 days $40 - 7 daysDELIVERYWe theDlEaLtIeVsEtRmY odTr9eu0lssOtaeudvtalbeiyltasKbtiThwlerr9iousa0unstgaOtNhteioZouud’nsttwlcNbeihdZyte.es.aKptiehws$rt3iosp0urfnoigcrfaieerhstsvtioeaowrvuyenaewtiwkelNaoeibkfdZhlaei.efrteoe.rnyloinure$. 30 for every week after your We have the latest models first week of hire available at NZ’s cheapest have prices available online. Check out our website to see our great deals! We have the latest models available at NZ’s cheapest prices available online. 03 226 6341 or 027 412 2925Check out our website to see our great deals! Check out our website to see our great deals! www.locatorbeacons.co.nz03 226 6341 or 027 412 2925 | www.locatorbeacons.co.nz 10 Vol 15 MAR-APR 2022

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LIFESTYLE Northland › Kerikeri Inthe Company ofGiants We walk humbled beneath ancient kauris, hear haunting birdcalls, smell exotic tropical flowers and swim beneath a thundering waterfall. Story + Photos Jane Dove Juneau 1 12 Vol 15 MAR-APR 2022

2 3 I t is near sunset when we pull into the Artist and bushman Rei Hamon talks about is a mix of hardwoods such as tawa, towai empty parking area at Puketi Kauri Forest the conflict he felt cutting down the majestic and pūriri, podocarps like tōtara and rimu near Kerikeri. Golden light bathes the kauri, rimu, tōtara and mataī trees in his book and the subtropical kauri. The forest is full of unmistakable tall ragged tops of the kauri Rei Hamon: Artist of the New Zealand Bush: bird activity – around 41 different bird species trees on the skyline. As I walk over to the “Then with an ear-rending cracking and split- have been recorded in Puketi. boardwalk I hear a haunting, unfamiliar bird ting of timber, the noble giant would fall to call and I peer into the treetops trying to see the ground where it would lie in everlasting We drive on to Puketi Recreation Area the bird. It is the rare kōkako singing a duet silence. We felled in a few hours trees that had off Waiare Road, where sheltered campsites with other kōkako, calling from across the stood against the elements for thousands of are tucked in among the trees along with a forest like a forest choir. years.” One day he decided, “I would take my 24-bunk trampers’ hut and cabins – booked axe to these monarchs no more …” through Department of Conservation website The Manginangina boardwalk wanders or the Kerikeri office. At dusk we find a level down through nīkau and tree ferns then Around the beginning of the century huge site among the trees, park our van and settle suddenly I catch a glimpse of tall white tree tracts of kauri forest were milled and now in for the night. In the morning the birds are trunks, like ghosts of an ancient forest. I have sadly only three per cent of these forests very active and one small tomtit (miromiro) walked back into an ancient time when kauris remain. Thankfully these stunning trees spent some time fluttering around our van ruled the forest. Among these majestic trees were spared and we now appreciate our forest looking at itself in the windows. I feel insignificant. I reach out and press my giants, like the Māori tangata whenua. The hand against the cold hard trunk – it is firm Omahuta and Puketi Forest covers 15,000 Some of the walks are closed at Puketi beneath my hand. Does the tree feel my warm hectares, including steep cliffs, plateau, because of kauri dieback and there is a boot hand? I like to think it does. swamps, streams and gorges and the boulder cleaning station to use before entering the Waipapa River. The Puketi Forest survived forest. We take a loop walk around the Nature How sad our colonial ancestors saw it neces- early logging and farm development because Trail, which wanders down to an impressive sary to cut down these beautiful kauri trees in of its steep terrain and poor soil. The forest stand of kauri trees and to a sweeping view New Zealand’s ancient subtropical rainforests. down over the treetops across the valley. The 5 1. Rick is communicating with an ancient kauri 2. Near sunset a haunting bird call echoes through the forest 3. A tiny miromiro, or tomtit, at Puketi Forest 4. A grove of kauri trees on the Nature Trail at Puketi Forest 4 5. Wharepuke Subtropical Garden MAR-APR 2022 Vol 15 13

67 New Zealand kauri is a conifer with great cream cheese, red onion, capers, dill and In the early 1990s Tania’s father Robin began antiquity. Its ancestors lived during the Jurassic lemon – I was in heaven – first a kauri forest developing the garden while running a plant period 150 million years ago, when dinosaurs then a delicious crusty bagel straight from the nursery on the property, which sits in a valley roamed the earth. Few trees in the world match oven. Kerikeri is not the sleepy little village I above the historic Stone Store. Tucked in the the size of kauri. Young trees take the form of visited as a kid; it has grown into a cosmopol- tropical forest is Māha a global fusion restau- a neat tapering pyramid and in adolescence itan town. rant run by Hong Kong born chef Ming Poon. the trunk develops into a remarkably straight The repurposed army barracks with exposed column. We decide to walk off our feast with a visit timber beams frame the exotic views outside. to Wharepuke Subtropical Garden, a one- A palm-fringed deck provides diners with the We thoroughly clean our boots after our stop destination with accommodation, a complete jungle experience minus the snakes hike and drive down to the metropolis of sculpture garden, printmaking studio/gallery and monkeys. Using fresh local and seasonal Kerikeri. Near the supermarket I discover a and restaurant. The garden has featured in a products Poons’ dishes reveal stories of his shop that makes fresh bagels – they were my number of magazines including New Zealand culinary journey from Hong Kong via Euro- favourite, when I lived in the United States but House & Garden and is now rated as a ‘Garden pean and Asian cuisines to New Zealand. I have yet to find a really good bagel shop in of National Significance.’ Nearby, also tucked unobtrusively in the trop- New Zealand. The freshly baked bagels look ical planting are six cottages with beautiful delicious as do the range of pies at Northland Tania Booth and her partner Mark Graver, views out over the garden. Bagels. I choose the original smoked salmon, an artist and printmaker, now run the garden on land that has been in the family since 1938. 8 9 14 Vol 15 MAR-APR 2022

10 11 On the artistic side, Mark has set up a non- Gallery. Both national and international 6. Mark Graver, artist and printmaker at toxic fine art printmaking studio, the only exhibitions of printmaking and other medi- Wharepuke one in New Zealand. Mark holds a Masters ums are shown in the gallery. 7. The Mission Station at Kerikeri in Printmaking and and is a Full Fellow of 8. The Old Stone Store, built in 1835 and the Royal Society of Painters-Printmakers Following on the art theme is a series of 40 still trading today RE (one of only 100 in the world at any one sculptures by various artists, placed around 10. The Georgian Mission House is the time) in London. His work is held in many the garden on a one-kilometre sculpture oldest building in New Zealand international public collections including trail. Artwork includes three sculptures by 11. Diners at the Plough & Feather enjoy the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, Chris Booth, Robin’s brother who has created the historic setting museums in China, Australia, South Africa large stone sculptures in a number of inter- and Mexico to name a few. Mark holds print- national locations – Germany, France, Italy, making workshops and at Art at Wharepuke UK and New Zealand; one example is the Rainbow Warrior memorial at Matauri Bay. ANY SHAPE, SIZE OR COLOUR WE REPAIR & PAINT THEM ALL 09onehungapanelpaint.co.nz MAR-APR 2022 Vol 15 15

12 13 The sculpture trail is sponsored by The The land originally had an orchard and was with a walk down by the Old Stone Store and Dalton Trust artist-in-residency programme, one of the first to grow tangelo and kiwifruit, Kemp House, at the Kerikeri Mission Sta- which allows artists four weeks to come to Robin explained, before the property was sub- tion, one of the first areas in New Zealand Wharepuke to make a work for the garden. divided between the 4 family brothers and where Māori invited visitors to live among the tropical garden developed. Wharepuke is them. Local chiefs were keen to harness the Robin still helps out in the garden and we open daily to visitors from 10am to 5pm with trade and technology of Europe and offered discover him tidying up after some overnight a koha/donation. Check the Māha website for the missionaries protection amidst a back- wind damage. He points out 120-year-old their opening hours and menu. ground of tribal warfare. The lavishly built redwoods, a number of kauris and a white stone building (1835) must have looked out mulberry tree, native to China and India. Now it’s time to add history to our day MANUFACTURED SPECIFICALLY FOR NEW ZEALAND CONDITIONS AND REGULATIONS Signature 8324SB, 11.2 Meters, From $131,000 Ultra Lite 2608BS, 9.2 Meters, From $114,000 Ultra Lite 2516S, 7.9 Meters, From $109,000 CONTACT US TODAY 021 940 801 Dairy Flat, Auckland [email protected] www.sunmarketing.co.nz 16 Vol 15 MAR-APR 2022

THWEAVTICDHEO CLICK IN DIGITAL EDITION Youtube channel: NZTODAY RV Lifestyle of place “where raupō whare were the norm 14 12. A footbridge crosses the and where even missionaries made do with trees were given names and revered as chiefs Waipekakoura River at Kerikeri timber.”– NZ History online. The store is the of the forest. Trees are the largest biological 13. A pool above Rainbow Falls longest operating commercial building in forms in nature and we pale in comparison, near our campsite New Zealand. yet they are vulnerable, and we must do all 14. A family sits beneath we can to protect these amazing chiefs for the Rainbow Falls or Waianiwaniwa Next door is New Zealand’s oldest surviv- future. ing building, the Kerikeri Mission House or MAR-APR 2022 Vol 15 17 Kemp House built in 1822. The two-storey Georgian designed house wrapped with a verandah is built mainly of kauri. The Mis- sion House is now a museum and open to the public, as is the Stone Store. We enjoy the gardens surrounding the Mis- sion Station and Rick eyes up the river for a swim. We discover two options for staying nearby, either at Kerikeri Holiday Park or the NZMCA campground, a grass field above Rainbow Falls. We choose the latter. Not far from our campsite a bush-lined path follows the river above Rainbow Falls to a lookout point where the water plunges off a 27-metre drop to the pool below. It is a hot day and the pool looks inviting as the last rays of sun light up the rocks below. We hurry down the path to the base of the waterfall. I dive off the rocks into the dark cool water. The day washes away as I swim over to the cascading water beneath the waterfall. It is intensely loud as I battle to swim under the pounding water. I shout out to Rick as he swims over to join me. Exhila- rated by our water massage we swim back to sit in the last rays of sun on a warm afternoon. Later we go into town for dinner and find a cluster of small restaurants down an alley- way off the main street. A glass of wine over dinner is the perfect way to end a busy day. Kerikeri has plenty more to explore – his- tory, culture, art and gardens. But I must say, top of my list to visit was the Puketi Kauri Forest. The majesty of the tall kauri trees towering over the forest is humbling. Kauri is known to Māori as Te Whakaruruhau – the great protector of the forest. Many large kauri

WALK & CYCLE TRAILS FAR NORTH › Doubtless Bay WALKING BACK IN TIME A walk that combines two reserves, four pā sites and a beautiful beach Words + Photos Sheryl Bainbridge 1 2 3 18 Vol 15 MAR-APR 2022 4

5 6 Andrew’s walkway that emerges opposite Information Centre. the police station (see NZTODAY/RV Life- I f Granny Rosieur’s cottage could talk, what style issue 10) before heading to Mill Bay fascinating tales it would have to tell. Built Mill Bay’s also a good starting point for a and then up Mill Bay Road to Rangikapiti on the waterfront at Mill Bay, Mangōnui in walk that takes in the Rangikapiti Pā site, the Reserve. DOC signage, about 400 metres or the 1860s, over the years it’s seen waka and highest point locally, and includes a kilome- roughly halfway up Mill Bay Road, points to whaleboats superseded by fishing fleets and tre or so of walking along stunning Coopers a track through the bush, although walkers pleasure craft. The cottage, now called Mabel’s Beach, around Taumarumaru Reserve, where can continue up the roadside to Rangikapiti Cottage after Granny Rosieur’s granddaughter, there are three more pā sites, and back to your Road and access the reserve that way. For is part of the Mill Bay heritage trail, a small starting point via the state highway. Walkers anyone wanting a shorter walk there is a self-guided tour that leads visitors around the aiming to go the whole distance would be carpark just below the pā site on the reserve. Mill Bay waterfront to Silver Egg Road. wise to allow 3–4 hours but there are several shorter options that can be picked off one at From the pā site at the top of the reserve, Silver Egg Road is named for an egg-shaped a time. the outstanding 360° views overlook the stone, painted silver, that an old-time resident inner harbour, around to Doubtless Bay, relied on to help him find his way home at Ian Swindells, Vice-chairman of the Coopers Beach and further inland. On a night. Having been stolen on one occasion, Friends of Rangikapiti Trust hopes that in blue-dome day it really does feel like being it’s now firmly cemented in place on the road- future the walk will become more formalised in paradise, and it’s easy to see why early side. Nearby is a memorial to James Berghan, in terms of identification and recognition Māori chose this location to build a signifi- Mangōnui’s first European settler, who died as one of the Far North’s iconic walks. “It’s cant pā. A circular trail leads around the pā, in 1869 and is buried on the adjacent hill- got everything,” he says, “a combination of mostly through regenerating bush. Friends side. There’s history in abundance here, and bush, scenery, beach and both European and of Rangikapiti Trust members have put in a anyone wanting to find out more about Mill Māori history.” The active community trust lot of work to make this an interesting walk Bay’s history can pick up a pamphlet that has been responsible for an extensive plant- using a wide variety of native plants, all of identifies sites of interest from the Mangōnui ing programme as well as weeding, trapping, which have their seasonal attractions, such as the pure white flowers of the native whau. constructing tracks and educating There are also some self-sown plants includ- and involving local school groups. ing the starfish-like stinkhorn fungus which, while looking fascinating, has a rather repel- Ian would like to see the walk lent odour. eventually begin in Mangōnui vil- lage. It would take in part of the Mangōnui heritage trail that leads up a set of steps, 94 in all, to St 78 1. The footbridge leads from the carpark to the reserve 2. A small secret beach 3. View of Doubtless Bay from Rangikapiti Pā site 4. Pure white flowers of the native whau bush on the Rangikapiti Loop track 5. Silver Egg Road 6. The silver egg which gave the road its name 7. A memorial to early settler James Berghan whose bones lie buried on the hillside nearby 8. Granny Rosieur’s cottage at Mill Bay was built very close to the water MAR-APR 2022 Vol 15 19

9 10 11 Once walkers have completed the cir- the centenary of WW1, forms a promontory track is perfectly navigable, it’s not somewhere cuit around the pā, emerging at the end of between Mangōnui Harbour and Coopers you’d take Gran in a wheelchair, and the trust Rangikapiti Road, options include returning Beach. Here, one of three seats constructed plans to install steps as a future project. to the carpark or Mill Bay, depending on by local Lions Club member John Matthews where you started off, or heading down the provides a welcome respite for a while and Like many of our east coast beaches, Coo- short track to Kohekohe Point. The point, a chance to look at the view before heading pers Beach is a scenic golden sand spot. At which was part of the Matariki Tu Rākau proj- to the left along a track to Kotare Street and about 1km long, it’s lined with mature pōhutu- ect where trees were planted to commemorate down some stairs to Coopers Beach. While the kawa that not only provide shade and screen the beach from the adjoining residential area Masters Of The FoldiE Bike VAST IMPROVERS: 25+ EBO UPGRADES • ASSESSPnvuuuhluetpppimsin-eeehvarrrtiiiilbhnoooueorrrrxa,, bcgtfhhiohaeoeeataanaatmiervvnesryyeirgiesgddtessouuul nttpsyyoegt3marra5taidc0(ntesWhhdmeamnibsdoes-itsgootrn)rips“DNF$IMOSTSU1ECHUS0RNOIHP0TSTU-EOH1AIRNOWE5DRT0NS!S”! COLOURS OPTIONAL • (INDICATIVE) CRUISE + THROTTLE • CONTROL OR NEW • LIME THROTTLE DOMINANT • • CELESTE INTUITIVE (TDI) • SYSTEM CHOOSE FROM 4 SPECIFICATIONS ORANGE $1550 EuroSpec Villager 250W TowniE 50+km PAS $1650 EuroSpec Villager+ 250W Softnose 50+km PAS $1795 Ebo UpRatedEzi 350W 50+km PAS PEARLISED $1995 EuroProven SuperTourer* 350W 100+km PAS ALLOY All distances tested and confirmed by EBO Bikes PEARLISED CREME *Yes, I toured Europe with my SuperTourer. Nation-Wide technical support network. WE CONFIDENTLY BACK OUR WARRANTY Ebo integrity: No ‘BS’ gimmicks or claims. Ask us about ‘self charging’ bikes (LOL). ebobikes.co.nz COANuTcAkClaTnSd: NaAnTdIONNaAtiLon- AalLARNeg0i2o1ns98C0al5l1A1lAaUnC0K2L1A9N8D0+N5O11RTHHaNwEkVeIsLLBEay02c7a4ll 9T5e1rr6y1012H7A4W3K2E7S 2B0A6Y T(NERevRiYlle0’2s7g4o3n2e7s2a0il6ing) 20 Vol 15 MAR-APR 2022

13 14 but also look sensational in summer when 35-minute workout. This is where dogs come good access to kaimoana. they’re in flower. Reaching Taumarumaru to play, as unlike Rangikapiti Reserve where Most fine days the carpark is put to good use Reserve at the other end of the beach involves kiwi have been seen, Taumarumaru has lots crossing a shallow stream and, a bit later, of open spaces, magnificent old pōhutukawa while dogs on leads and their humans exer- climbing over a stile, but being tide-depen- trees and is intersected by several mown cise each other in the reserve. Other visitors dent there’s an alternative to wet feet which is tracks. Away from the road, there’s a small leave their mark – on a DOC marker post we to walk through Coopers Beach playground, secret beach as well as a number of rocky encountered a small painted stone left by ‘the go about 100m west to the shopping centre outcrops that are proven fishing spots, and Viking Wanderer’. As long-term residents, our and then down more wooden stairs to rejoin a small stream that runs beside regenerating daily routine involves a walk, and like other the beach. native bush. Remnants of defence ditches can locals, we’re lucky to have choices that involve still be seen at the Otanenui (the place of the two historic reserves separated by a beach with For anyone wanting a shorter walk, there’s huge old man tāmure/snapper) pā site, and different moods and activities – such as the access to Taumarumaru Reserve from a good interpretive signage describes the rich seething mass of bait fish being pursued by a carpark opposite the bowling club on the pre-European history of the reserve, which screaming mob of gulls that we saw this morn- highway, and a circuit of this reserve with its was ideal for growing crops and provided ing. We hope that visitors will come here and amazing views and three pā sites is a good take the time to enjoy them too. 9. Rangikapiti Pā site (left) had an ideal defence position 10. Taumarumaru Reserve and Coopers Beach 11. Massive old pōhutukawa at Taumarumaru Reserve 13. The Viking Wanderer was here 14. Dogs come to play – Jasper and Louie with their humans 15. The outer part of Mangōnui Harbour viewed from 15 Rangikapiti Pā site TAKE TIME OUT AND VISIT Open for: • Breakfast • Lunch • Delicious Cakes • Paintings • Glass Works • Carvings • Jewellery • Sculptures • Ceramics• Gift Vouchers Gift Vouchers Open 7 days available for from 10am the Café & Gallery galleryhelenabay 1392 Old Russell Rd, Hikurangi | Ph: 09 433 9616 or Café 09 433 9934 | www.galleryhelenabay.co.nz MAR-APR 2022 Vol 15 21

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Matauri Bay › Northland TRAVEL 1 The French Connection How does Ngāti Kura, the tangata whenua of Matauri Bay in Northland, have a link to spies, espionage and a nuclear incident? Story + Photos Jane Dove Juneau 2 MAR-APR 2022 Vol 15 23

O n a hilltop towering over Matauri Bay is 3 message to my son living in Steamboat, Col- a large memorial sculpture with a heavy on a road that loops around to the Whanga- orado – the miracles of modern life. When I rounded stone arch, silhouetted in the roa harbour. was adventuring around the world, to hear sky, as if defying gravity. Attached to from me my parents had to wait for a collect the central column is a ship’s propeller – a This was our first visit to Matauri Bay, and call from a post office in some obscure city. very significant propeller, as it belonged to as we hadn’t booked in advance we moved the Rainbow Warrior, an anti-nuclear protest around to a couple of different sites during The clear blue sea looked inviting as I ship that was bombed by French secret-service our stay, which is easy with a campervan. On watched people catching waves off our agents in 1985 while docked in Auckland our last night we had the option of a beach- campsite, and as I walked down the beach Harbour. The incident caused a huge scandal front site for $5 extra, a bargain, under the with my body board I heard, “Hi Jane”. It was at the time; the fact that New Zealand was the shade of a Norfolk pine that seem to thrive in our neighbour Chris from Ōakura, who was centre of an act of international espionage was the shelly soil by the beach and create some camped nearby. He and his family were pre- unthinkable. The incident galvanised the anti- welcome shade in the hot midday sun. After paring to head off to Motukawanui Island nuclear movement in opposition to both the we got set up overlooking the glassy waves, for a week’s stay in the DOC hut. They had French nuclear tests at Mururoa and visits of which took all of 10 minutes, Rick cooked to ferry all their food, water, dive gear and American warships to New Zealand. pancakes and scrambled eggs while I sent a kids across to the island in a small inflatable dive boat. The memorial looks out to where the Rain- bow Warrior was scuttled just off the Cavalli “It’s going to take a lot of trips as there are Islands in Northland. Created by sculp- 14 of us,” Chris said. “It sounds like a great tor Chris Booth, it is a fitting tribute to the adventure,” I replied. He was looking at the dreams of the young protesters who fought waves as they crashed to shore – with set faces the battle against nuclear testing. The unlikely up to a metre it could be interesting. A day ear- resting place for the ship was at the gener- lier I watched a large runabout launch in the ous invitation of Ngāti Kura kaumātua, and swell and it was tricky. The boat was launched Dover Samuels a former Māori Affairs Min- into the sea with a tractor, and spun around ister. The ship was scuttled in 1987 to form a to face the waves, but it took a long time to living memorial and it is now a popular dive drop the motor down as four guys hanging on spot and fish sanctuary. to the sides battled to keep it straight in the whitewater. They scrambled on board and as South of the memorial lies the long white the boat motored out it hit a large unbroken sandy beach of Matauri Bay, a popular fish- wave sending the boat vertical – it just about ing, dive and surf destination. The Matauri flipped the boat. It was entertaining to watch Bay Holiday Park runs along the beachfront but stressful for the participants. at the northern end of the beach and there are a range of shady sites nestled under a line of Luckily the next day the swell had dropped tall Norfolk pines. Matauri Bay is 30 minutes and Chris, Amanda and family successfully north of Kerikeri and is one of several beaches ferried their gear, and 14 people across to Motukawanui Island. Chris and his brother 4 5 24 Vol 15 MAR-APR 2022

1. One of Northland’s gems, Matauri Bay 2. The Rainbow Warrior memorial is on a headland above Matauri Bay 3. The dented propeller of the Rainbow Warrior, on Chris Booth’s sculpture 4. Capturing a ‘Kodak’ moment on the family vacation 5. Behind these boys is the underwater resting place of the Rainbow Warrior 6. The family board for the trip across the channel to Motukawanui Island 6 went diving each day and caught good feeds the sheltered Putataua Bay which faces north. I near the beach known as Te Tou O Taki, of fish and shellfish, and were lucky enough to had a couple of walks up to the peaceful clifftop is the Samuel Marsden Memorial Church, see kiwi in the vicinity of the hut. It was a great to the Rainbow Warrior memorial. built in 1896 to commemorate Reverend family experience. Marsden’s arrival at Matauri Bay. The pow- The warm climate, sheltered coves and beau- erful chief Ruatara provided the preacher a The swell seemed to be consistent during our tiful beaches were attractive to early Māori safe anchorage in the bay where Marsden four-day visit to Matauri Bay, so we surfed each settlers and it was one of the first places set- spent his first night sleeping under the stars. day, walked along the beach and snorkelled in tled in New Zealand. A small wooden church REWARDING YOU FOR SUPPORTING LOCAL FEATURES SCAN ME Earn rewards Huge savings Accommodaaon discounts Bluebridge Ferry discounts Accvity discounts Absolutetly FREE! www.staykiwi.com MAR-APR 2022 Vol 15 25

7 8 The church is still active and can seat 60 people on a Sunday morning. The beautiful carvings 9 in the church depict whale tails – representing dependence on the sea for food – a number of Māori legends, as well as the arrival of Pākehā. Down the coast a little way, the beautiful scenery of the area has inspired the devel- opment of the luxury Kauri Cliffs Resort, accessed off the road into Matauri Bay. A night’s stay at the resort which includes a day spa, award-winning restaurant and bar, starts at $2100 per night – so may be a little out of range for most, but a round of golf could be an option. Kauri Cliffs course was designed/built by David Harman of Florida and has views of the ocean, with cliffs plunging to the sea. The course has recently been renovated by golf course architect Rees Jones, and is ranked #39 in the world by Golf Digest. Bookings are essential and off-peak season rates start at $200. Another option for adventure in the area, for certified divers, is to explore the wreck of the Rainbow Warrior. Paihia Dive offers trips out to the Rainbow Warrior, and snorkelling at various dive sites around the Cavalli Islands. Rick and I are content living the simple life, overlooking the blue ocean and watching the beach activities unfold on our camper- van doorstep. The novelty for us in our new camper is having ice for cocktails and cham- pagne chilled in the fridge. How very civilised. I think I’ll skip the clifftop luxury accommo- dation this time and settle for the campground scene by the beach. As the golden afternoon sun slinks down towards the horizon and the night sky takes over with a speckling of stars, I think of the Rainbow Warrior sculpture on the nearby hill – where arcs of white stones reach skywards as if to send a message of peace/hope to the world. I hope the world is listening. 10 7. Divers run to help steady the boat during launching 8. Members of the local iwi run the campground at Matauri Bay 9. Lazy afternoons in the winterless north 10. The small swell makes boat launching tricky 11. An offshore wind creates hollow waves at Matauri Bay, Northland 26 Vol 15 MAR-APR 2022

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MUSEUM Northland › Taipa 12 3 One Man’s Hobby and His 4 Marvellous Shed 5 Win Matthews is the ultimate Mr Fixit. He’s clearly a mechanical wizard. With a small smile and a lot of enthusiasm he sits within the museum he has created and chats to visitors about his passion. It’s a mini wonderland, a treasure trove with gems wherever you look. Story + Photos Helen Yuretich 6 7 28 Vol 15 MAR-APR 2022

9 8 motor, brakes, perhaps not the windscreen. 10 The windscreen looks OK in the photo. Now, the Chevvy.” The first thing you see at the door of fully restored and roadworthy, the Roadster the Matthews Vintage Collection is a stands at the entrance and welcomes visitors, He leads me through the collection to gleaming red Singer Roadster. It looks the first thing you see when you walk in and a beautiful blue Chevrolet Tourer dating as though it should be starring alongside it’s a beauty. from 1927. It looks like a prized possession Chitty Chitty Bang Bang in a big-budget from Downton Abbey and he admits it’s his movie. It’s a magnificent introduction to the I imagine it would have taken years of res- favourite. collection, wowing visitors with its sleek lines toration but it’s just one of the many vehicles and shining paintwork. Win has restored and which he keeps in top “I’ve had it for 57 years. It’s the most reli- condition, ready to take on the road when- able vehicle in the shed. It always starts up On the table next to it is a photo of the car ever there’s a rally. first time.” when Win bought it in 1992. It’s unrecognis- able as the showpiece sitting at the door – a Win Matthews is a modest man sitting Win drove it to Bluff and back in 1996 for wreck of rusty metal and loose wires which quietly amongst this collection. When I ask a 50th anniversary rally in Christchurch. had to be towed home. You imagine irate about its history, he replies “Well, it’s just me Cruising at about 45mph (72kph) he drove chickens flying out of it squawking, feath- really.” from Cape Rēinga to Bluff in a week, and ers flying, and families of mice comfortably then took another week to get home. ensconced there for generations. The infor- It’s a collection which just happened, the mation card next to the old photo says the work of one man. It came about because he He did have one small issue on the way car was “in quite a dilapidated state requir- likes fixing things and he’s been doing that down – a loose thingummy in the motor (he ing full restoration.” for nearly 60 years. lost me with the technical details, something about a rattle), but it was no problem for this That means Win rebuilt it completely “When I’ve finished one thing I look handyman. He pulled out his tool box, found – chassis, body, woodwork, mudguards, around for the next,” he says. “It started with a spare bolt under the seat, fixed the rattle and was back humming along in no time. 1. Not enough room on the floor and walls 2. The 1927 Chevrolet Tourer which started it all 11 12 3. Red Farmalls packed tight 4. Win and his collection 5. Old bowsers had real class 6. Tractors everywhere 7. The dental chair looks fully functioning 8. Just north of Taipa, SH10 9. The Roadster in 1992 10. The Roadster today, restored to full wow status 11. A beautiful work of art 12. A really large Anchor butter stamp 13. Look, no hands 13 14 14. Toy collection MAR-APR 2022 Vol 15 29

There are dozens of vehicles here, each one 15 16 repaired and restored by Win. How one man doubt it was a first class chilly bin back in can acquire and restore so many vehicles in a its day. an exquisitely crocheted child’s dress. single lifetime is astonishing, and all the time “Have you heard the pianola?” he was farming too. As I am inspecting the bag a fierce bleat Win takes me to an old upright piano. Its rings through the shed and makes me jump. “Well,” I say, “it’s a good thing farmers have A mean looking sheep is eyeing me coldly insides are exposed to show a piece of paper so much free time.” through an open roller door. It seems to have with holes punched in it. He pumps the taken exception to me and is making its feel- pedals, the paper turns and music fills the He laughs and says “You make time and I’ve ings very clear. There is a good solid fence shed. What a marvellous invention. Anyone been at it for a long while.” between us but I move away just in case. I can sit down and be an instant pianist. later read in the brochure that this is Matt the It’s no surprise that there are a lot of trac- Sheep who loves to be fed so perhaps it was a Beside it is the mechanism from another tors. He looks vague when I ask him how friendly bleat and I misinterpreted it. pianola so the technically minded can study many. There are dozens inside the shed and it and figure out how it all works. There is more outside. I didn’t know you could get Wandering round looking at everything is also a case containing hundreds more pieces tractors in so many colours – lots of red Far- an educational feast. I stop at a table which of music, enough for every day of the year. malls, but also orange, yellow, green, several has an apparently random selection of items shades of blue and grey, a rainbow and a – a notebook, an old tape recorder, a lamp, I thank Win sincerely. I loved the music and whole timeline of tractors. a radio, a photo album, a camera, a video the cars and the crocheted dress and the mad recorder and a phone, all antiques or at least ice-cream bag. I loved it all. Originally he had a five-bay shed for his pretty old. The sign explains that all these, vehicles and workshop but he kept getting and more, are embedded in a smart phone. “Is it still growing?” I ask him. more and more stuff. It’s a touch of brilliance, a visual lesson in how “No,” he says. “There’s no more room.” technology has advanced. Never mind, there’s enough here already to “The collection just grew,” he says. satisfy anyone. He doubled the shed to 10 bays to house his The variety of objects is remarkable with If you’re taking the scenic route round vehicles, added an extension for all his other something of interest for everyone. Bits and the East Coast to the Far North look out for articles and artefacts and opened to the public pieces from people’s lives and work from the Matthews Vintage Collection just north of 20 years ago. Since then thousands of visitors last century are squeezed in, apparently at Taipa on SH10. It’s well worth a visit. Win is have enjoyed the collection. random. There’s a dental chair next to a horse a modest host but get him talking and he has I asked if people ever want to buy his vehi- and cart, moa bones next to a dolls’ house, plenty of stories. cles, or hire them perhaps. an old switchboard, a cash register which is Open every afternoon except Saturday. “It’s more likely they want to give me some- a work of art, bed pans, petrol bowsers. I see thing,” he answers, “but I don’t often take farming equipment, household items, musi- 15. Cars, cars, cars anything. I haven’t got room.” cal instruments, pioneering appliances, toys. I 16. Sewing Tractor! At one point I want to walk between two admire some large Anchor butter stamps and 17. This is not a toy tractors to inspect a strange looking bag on 18. Smart phone equivalent the wall behind them. The tractors are parked so close together the back wheel of one is almost touching the back wheel of its neigh- bour. I certainly can’t squeeze through. The logistics of manoeuvring all those machines into place is bewildering but I suppose it’s a cinch compared to rebuilding them. I walk round the tractors and manage to get to the bag on the wall. It turns out to be a heavy canvas ice-cream bag used at school fairs or A&P Shows. It is far from salubrious and looks ill-suited to hold ice cream but no 17 18 30 Vol 15 MAR-APR 2022

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WALK & CYCLE TRAILS Waiotahe, Ōpōtiki › East Bay of Plenty Pedalling under Pohutukawa There’s nothing better than a trail where you can inhale the salty ocean air and hear the breakers crash on sand, while cycling through coastal pōhutukawa forest and gentle dunes – that’s what the Waiotahe cycle trail west of Ōpōtiki delivers. Story + Photos Skye Wishart 1 2 32 Vol 15 MAR-APR 2022

3 4 outside the river mouth. picture-perfect, blue-sky morning. The The trail begins here and travels beachside T his flat to undulating trail is brand new reserve is seven kilometres west of Ōpōtiki and, just like the Dunes Trail (to which it and sandwiched between State Highway 2 of those iconic giant pōhutukawa that envelop will soon connect), it is about as close to and the Waiotahe River estuary, very close to the highway. Leaving the reserve, we soon hit the beach as a cycle trail can get. Waiotahe Beach. This is a popular spot for a smooth concrete section of path between The Motu Trails are already a special attrac- picnicking, swimming and gathering kai- the highway and the boulder bank. It was just tion for cyclists visiting Ōpōtiki, and a brand moana, and the reserve has a signposted area a stone’s throw from the breakers – a narrow new set of walk/cycle trails will soon widen for short term parkover at the eastern end. The section that I imagined would be exciting on the trail network well on the way towards public toilets are painted with bright murals, a king tide. But once we entered the dunes Ōhiwa. One of the first sections is now up and there is a picnic table and a shelter with bench and for most of the remainder, we were cruis- running, and it connects the beachside com- seats, and because it was peak holiday period ing along a gravel path, passing runners and munity of Waiotahe Drifts with the Te Ahiaua when we visited there were a number of walkers who were enjoying the coastal walk Reserve. This spectacular trail is an easy ride campervans parked up, their owners enjoy- before the heat of the day hit. Native spin- (grade 1) stretching all the way along the ing morning coffee in deckchairs outside. A ifex grass stretched in all directions, holding beautiful white-sand Waiotahe Beach with man and his young son were fishing from the the dunes together, and drifts of fluffy hare’s uninterrupted views of the sea, Whakaari/ shore, and a group of kayakers were teaching tails were catching the morning light. This White Island and Moutuhora/Whale Island. each other how to roll in the glassy full tide. piece of coast, which stretches along to the It was a peaceful spot, but you could hear the eastern side of the Ōhiwa Harbour mouth, is With the bikes on the back of the truck, crash of the breakers of Waiotahe Beach just important because it’s an excellent example of my dad and I arrived at Te Ahiaua Reserve an intact dune system – dotterels nest here, (the ‘Pipi Beds’ to locals) at 8am on a and there has been lots of planting by Bay of Plenty Regional Council and the community. Because the dunes here were low we had views of the waves the whole way – it was a joy to watch a surfer carving with the help of a jet skier, who was pulling him in and out of the glassy barrels. 1. The section of the trail near Waiotahe Drifts is gently undulating and fun to ride – watch out for crossing beachgoers! 2. The native spinifex grass covers the dunes, protecting the dunes from erosion 3. A shelter with bench seats at the Pipi Beds would offer welcome respite from rain or hot sun 4. Te Ahiaua Reserve is next to the highway but has a peaceful feeling – and is very popular with freedom campers 5. The only concrete section of the path is near the Te Ahiaua Reserve end and 5 gets you very close to the water MAR-APR 2022 Vol 15 33

67 There is highway access to the beach at and Pākehā and their interaction. Atop one of kayakers, fishers and dog walkers. The trail multiple points along the trail, so there are them is a carved kōtuku (white heron) which then leads up onto a grassy stopbank that squeeze bars to prevent motorbikes from was a symbol for the 150th anniversary of the protects the new development from coastal entering the trail. They were easy enough to Treaty of Waitangi in 1990. Having driven storms – and its height gives you a great view navigate – you can also simply dismount and past them so many times on the highway, it across the Waiotahe Drifts and out to the hills walk through them. was lovely, being on a bike, to be able to easily behind. At the end of the trail we rode back stop and examine them more closely. through the development for a look before At one point the trail passes the pou rejoining the trail and returning to the Pipi whenua, pillars carved by Ōpōtiki master Soon after the pou, we dropped onto the Beds along the same route. Any later and it carver Heke Collier. Named ‘Pathway to the winding path that navigates the dunes adja- would have been a good idea to pack the togs Sunrise, Te Ara Ki Te Tairāwhiti’, the pillars cent to the Island View Holiday Park and – the day was heating up and with the beach stand side by side just off the highway and the Waiotahe Drifts development. The beach being so near and accessible the whole way, tell the stories of local iwi Te Whakatōhea was busy with holiday makers: swimmers, 34 Vol 15 MAR-APR 2022

89 10 6. One of the two carved pou whenua that stand side by side on the trail 7. A brand new bridge, installed in December 2021, takes you safely over a creek 8. The squeeze bars pop up at a few points along the trail but are simple to navigate if you slow down or dismount 9. While the trail runs between State Highway 2 and the ocean the entire way to Waiotahe Drifts, there was only one point that we were up at road level exposed to traffic – and there was still a grass strip between us and the traffic 10. The highway is hidden up behind the towering pōhutukawa, and all you hear from the trail is the crash of the surf 11. The trail is never too far from the surf and is popular with 11 runners, walkers and cyclists alike EXPERIENCE ADVENTURE & EXCITEMENT JET BOATING THE MOTU RIVER Ecological & Historical Commentary Summer Daily Departs: 10am, 12 noon, 2pm, 4pm, 6pm Suitable for all ages. Bookings Essential Ph or text 027 470 7315 Email: [email protected] www.moturiverjet.com MAR-APR 2022 Vol 15 35

a swim or two would have been the perfect addition to the morning’s activity. Although at just 3.5 kilometres one way the trail is short and sweet, there are no shops, so taking water and a snack is advisable. The new trail provides a way to experience this world-class section of beach, a section that, because of the busy highway, was essentially closed off to bike traffic before. The Dunes Trail has already done this for Hukuwai Beach for those in Ōpōtiki, with the installation of the trail’s Pakowhai ki Otutaopuku suspension bridge creating beach access for bikers and walkers. The Waiotahe trail is a fantastic new activity for locals and holiday makers alike, a connectivity beyond roads, and an opportunity for active transport in the area. Bring on the full trail network! Opotiki Holiday Park is the ideal location for your stay in the Easten Bay of Plenty. Powered & non – powered sites, self-contained units, cabins. Pet friendly, 3km to beach, bars & cafes. Next to walking & cycle trail. Swimming pool. Book online by visiting opotikiholidaypark.co.nz or phone your friendly host Raje Sharma on 07 3156 050 36 Vol 15 MAR-APR 2022

2022 brings the ALL ROAD We have a good arrival of the highly range of late anticipated Swift model pre-owned Challenger All Road, caravans available with 100mm raised in a range of sizes alko chassis, Dometic and prices. Carad door, pull out step & large fridge/ Check our website f reezer. for updates and Also arriving soon are contact us to pre- Coachman Acadia 8 order or to see ft wide models, Swift what is arriving Sprite 4SB & 4EB, and soon. Coachman Acadia & Laser models. MAR-APR 2022 Vol 15 37

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WALK & CYCLE TRAILS FOUR PEAKS HIGH-COUNTRY WALK › South Canterbury RaAisiGngreatthWeaDlk -evil Gary maps the Four Peaks High-Country Track, a mountainous partial loop walk where trampers spend their second night in the oldest surviving hut in the country. Story Gary Patterson Photos Gary Patterson or as credited 40 Vol 15 MAR-APR 2022

I love a good summit. The opportunity to get up high and view the world from above, like a bird, fascinates me. So, when I look at the list of private walks to add to Great Hikes App the name ‘Four Peaks High-Country Track’ stands out. My trip starts by arriving in the evening at a South Canterbury high-country station near Fairlie. I am met by the owners of Four Peaks Station. Jo and Steve live in the homestead beside the station’s huts – typically the first night’s accommodation before starting the walk. Unlike most visitors, I elect to walk their three-day track in two days to capture GPS data and photos before the weather clags in around the four peaks; this means an early start on a crisp spring morning. To reach the start of the track Jo shuttles me by 4WD to the end of the road at the back of the station. It already feels remote, and as we start the track that feeling grows. Here, Jo offers me a special guided introduction to the walk as we follow along the river edge past attentive cattle, sheep, and deer to the first point of interest – Sutherland’s Hut. This historic stone hut perched on the river ter- race is a one of a kind and kinda old, built in 1866. In fact, it is the oldest surviving hut in the country. Even more remarkable, it is the second night’s stay for walkers who get to enjoy a genuine shepherds’ quarters and an outside bath set under the Milky Way. As we reach the hut it seems like the shepherd from a century ago has just stepped out for a few moments to round up his sheepdogs ready for a day of mustering. The detailing of the stone masonry, the grand chimney, and the rustic cottage charm appears unchanged from its working days over 150 years ago. I spend a bit of time here snapping photos, capturing mapping data and scoping out the heritage elements that make this stay such a permanent back-country memory. I also appreciate the need to duck my average frame under the doorway, as obviously the height of the average 1860s workman’s height was 10cm lower than today’s standard walker. Even so, 1.5 metres is pretty low. Inside, I relish all the original aspects of the hut, from the large round stones heaved up from the riverbed to raise the walls, to the small details hanging on them such as the rustically framed hut pictures taken through the generations. Overnighting here is a singular experience. Bunking down at Sutherland’s is more akin to living a night like an old-time southern shep- herd, than the standard affair of many other back-country huts. Coming around Devil’s Peak MAR-APR 2022 Vol 15 41

3 12 4 Just as the sun’s morning rays begin to name of Devil’s Peak (1587m). The top is the more relief … well actually less as I reach the melt the ice in the outdoor bathtub I head off highest point of the track, achieved via a side main ridgeline and the gradient eases. As I alone on the high-country walk making my route, and that’s where I am heading. It is as walk along the tops, I realise I am not the only way along the old pack track that follows the hot as ‘hell’ today! Noon’s heat has arrived one up here … up ahead I spy a flock of vege- river’s course. I am loving the solitude, the as I reach Jumpover Saddle (1145m). Here, table sheep. These are low-growing sheep-like open country, and the raw upper catchment I collapse rather than jump. After a snack at plants, blobby, whitish and in groups. There is landscape with its unhindered forest. Soon the saddle and posing my camera to capture a tale told that on early high-country stations, pasture turns into yellow-ochre coloured myself unsuccessfully trying to jump over the English sheepdogs initially tried mustering tussock country as I turn a corner and gain Jumpover Saddle sign, I begin to ascend to the up these plants. Beyond the sheep sits the some height. Now as I puff along, I can spot heavens for a date with the devil. summit. The day is relatively cloudless, and all four peaks of the range that surround and the views are stunning and full of colour – tower over me. One of the four giant figures The climb up the spur is unrelenting; the white snow-capped ranges, the blue hue of looming directly overhead has the ominous only relief is that for every metre gained, the Lake Opuha and the green pasture patchwork air temperature lowers a smidge. But there is Living the Dream! MembeNrZDMisCcoAunts Infinity Caravans, one of the UK’s largest touring caravan retailers, is now represented in the South Island. NEW CARAVANS ARRIVING EARLY 2022! We’re one of the most trusted caravan dealers in New Zealand with a reputation as one of Canterbury’s leading Order now to secure yours suppliers. We offer a range of new touring caravans and accessories, including Swift Celebration and Elddis Chatsworth Special Edition brands, at some of the most affordable prices in NZ. We pride ourselves on offering our clients confidence in their purchase, along with personal service and advice. Explore New Zealand with the assurance and comfort of a reliable caravan, enjoying holiday experiences and creating memories. SERVICES • Mobile WiFi installation • Satellite & TV systems for • Dual or single reverse every situation cameras fitted • Electrical work & certification • Motorhomes and caravans • Water tightness testing off-grid solar system • Annual caravan service • Caravan & Motorhome • Self containment work & certification Insurance repairs • European caravans & RVs converted to NZ Regs Call in soon, or visit our website at www.infinitycaravans.co.nz, to claim the key to a brand new life. 0800 115120 [email protected] Unit 2/10 Musgrove Close, Wigram, Christchurch 8042 www.infinitycaravans.co.nz 42 Vol 15 MAR-APR 2022

56 789 of the rural heartland far below. Standing on followed by roast lamb and vegetables with 10 Devil’s Peak I linger and rest. Minutes then a desert of chocolate brownie. Back-country hours pass as I watch the afternoon clouds bliss coupled with the comforts of caravan- 1. Feeding the lambs before heading off on the walk gather around my devil of a peak, the vegeta- ning – unbelievable! 2. Sutherland’s Hut – Jo standing outside ble sheep, and my tired feet. Sutherland’s Hut I sleep well and watch the sun fill the 3. Celebrating reaching Devil’s Peak summit(1587m) In time the ranges below me begin to cast valley before heading out. The final day of 4. The Staircase, an epic zig-zag descent from the long shadows, and it is clear I need to return this semi-circular track is a climb out of the alpine environment to the saddle and reach Devil’s Creek Hut catchment over the lower Kirke’s Saddle before 5. Looking down over the high-country station before nightfall. I descend swiftly and return dropping into Gooseberry Valley, closer to the towards the Sherwood Range to the main track at Jumpover Saddle. From homestead. At the base of the saddle the track 6. The last few steps to the top here it is an easy, wide path down switch- now runs alongside Gooseberry Stream and 7. A welcome break on reaching the summit backs called ‘The Staircase’ to reach the deep as the day heats up each pool looks ever more 8. Kārearea (NZ falcon) being a bit disturbed on my bowels of Devil’s Stream. Moments later I appealing. The waterway has both waterfalls passing reach a second historic hut which oddly sits and waterholes which I GPS and photograph 9. High-country sheep and lambs beside a retro caravan. While a stay in the hut for the Great Hikes App. The stream is true to 10. Devil’s Creek Hut and the overnighting caravan is appealing, a night in a caravan just seems its name because as I cross it for the last time unmissable  … how many opportunities do a gooseberry plant is in fruit with the berries you get to overnight in a caravan in the road- nearly ready – these barbed shrubs were intro- less back country? Like a scene out of Into the duced to the station by shepherds long long Wild I drop my pack into the caravan. Alone ago. The last major climb sends me onto a roll- in the wilderness, with trees offering privacy ing ridgeline above the green pastures which over a cascading stream with fluted pools, I points me homeward. The view up here over pick a water-hole and strip off; although it’s the long Sherwood Range horizon is magic as cold as you would expect from any alpine while far below I see a cluster of white dots headwaters this is as refreshing and cleansing of sheep being mustered into yards. Actual as it gets. The night is topped off by tucking mammals this time. As I pass the sheep yards into my first ever freeze-dried ‘Back Coun- I wave to the workers before heading over the try Cuisine’ meal – a raspberry smoothie, hill and returning to the homestead. Three Creeks Store in Burkes Pass Outdoor furniture, garden art, shepherds huts, garagenalia, vintage tin signs, art, crafts, collectables, A MUST SEE coffee and real fruit ice creams…all of this and more in one place! 2119 Fairlie/Tekapo Rd, Burkes Pass • Open 7 days • 03 685 8544 • www.threecreeks.co.nz MAR-APR 2022 Vol 15 43

Stats 27km (+5km for the optional walk-up Devil’s Peak), 3 days This has been my first experience under- small group sizes, daily hut gear shuttles If off the beaten track sounds appealing with taking a private walk on private land. and on some tracks a home cooked meal on a little comfort along the way, then it’s well Surprisingly, given how much scenic private arrival. The variety of landscapes is vast, com- worth taking a peek at Four Peaks. land there is in our country, there are only a bining leisure with luxury, cooking in comfort handful of multi-day private walks. How do and a chance to meet the place’s personalities. 11. Mustering up on heading out they compare to a Great Walk? Well, this is This was my experience at Four Peaks, where I 12. The last few kilometres is a rural treat something completely different and equally met the station owners, enjoyed their stories, great. A journey on a private walk means and took a journey like no other public track. 11 Stay in A 3day/2night upgraded walk in the shepherd’s hills between huts with Geraldine & flush loos and Steve & Jo McAtamney Fairlie. hot showers, Four Peaks High Country Track and a ton of Email: [email protected] charm. Magic! www.walkfourpeaks.co.nz 12 44 Vol 15 MAR-APR 2022

TIMARU | MACKENZIE | WAITAKI | WAIMATE TIMARU | MACKENZIE | WAITAKI | WAIMATE Aoraki/Mt Cook, Mackenzie Aoraki/Mt Cook, Mackenzie The Central South Island is an area of stunning and diverse landscapes from the TPhaeciCfiecnCtroaalsStotuotthhIeslmanoduinstaaninaoruesahoifgshtucnonuinntgrya.nd diverse landscapes from the OPaneciofifcthCeobaesstt wtoatyhs etomexopulonrteaitinisotuosdhrivigehthceoluoonptrayr.ound the beautiful hydro lakes, starting Oannde ofinf tishheinbgesint wseaayssidtoeecxitpyloTriemiat irsut.oItd’sriavefatvhoeuloriotepraoraoduntrdipthfoerbloecaaultsif.ul hydro lakes, starting aThned RfiOniAshMinDgriivninsgeaLosiodpe AcpitypTtiomhaerlup. yIto’suanfaavvioguartietethroisasdtutrnipnifnogr ldocriavels.and uncover all the TmhuesRtO-vAisMitDsrpivoitnsgloLocoaplsAkpnopwtoahnedlployvoeu. navigate this stunning drive and uncover all the must-visit spots locals know and love. Tuhawaiki Point, Timaru Silo Art, Waimate Clay Cliffs, Waitaki Tuhawaiki Point, Timaru Silo Art, Waimate Clay Cliffs, Waitaki The ROAM Driving Loop App will have you: DOWNLOAD HERE The ROAM Driving Loop App will have you: DOWNLOAD HERE • Visiting stunning South Island locations like Aoraki/Mt Cook, Caroline • VBiasyitianngdsttuhnenCinlagySCouliftfhsIsland locations like Aoraki/Mt Cook, Caroline Bay and the Clay Cliffs • Wining, dining and coastal walking in seaside city Timaru • Wining, dining and coastal walking in seaside city Timaru • Checking out the geology and wineries of the Waitaki Valley • Checking out the geology and wineries of the Waitaki Valley • Discovering silo art and Edwardian heritage in Waimate • Discovering silo art and Edwardian heritage in Waimate Download for free from the App Store and Google Play Download for free from the App Store and Google Play

TRAVEL Tekapo to Mt Cook › Mackenzie Fragilebut beautiful Famous for its pristine night skies, breath-taking mountains and luscious blue lakes, the Mackenzie region offers visitors an awe-inspiring experience. Kathy Catton shares her highlights. Story Kathy Catton Photos Kathy Catton, Glacier Explorers and Tekapo Star Gazing 46 Vol 15 MAR-APR 2022

Y ou know that feeling you get when you 1 3 are completely in awe of the world around you? When the size of it bewilders you, 2 Astro-tourism emerging across the world. the beauty almost makes you cry with constellations and the planets surrounding us. At Tekapo Star Gazing, we are conscious of gratitude, and the tranquillity makes you combining our night sky with our amazing wonder just how lucky you are? That’s the feeling “It’s an ever-changing sky,” says Sam. “This facilities and also providing that broader I experienced again and again when travelling job never gets old. The stars are always in sense of ecotourism, where visitors can expe- a few days through the Mackenzie region. different places, and even in poor weather rience the natural world around them,” says we offer an amazing virtual reality tour with Sam. It’s the expanse of this place, the sense of Oculus headsets.” space and openness, combined with the little This sense of ecotourism is undoubtedly moments of joy or the vignettes of colour For old and young, it’s a tour that blends evident at Tekapo Springs. Owned by an orig- amongst a dry, parched summer, that touch science and storytelling. The second half inally Belgian family, the company focuses on me. Covering over 7000 square kilometres of the evening involves being cocooned in creating as little environmental damage as of some of the most outstanding landscapes the warmth of the 37.5 degrees of the hot possible and is aiming to be carbon neutral. in Aotearoa New Zealand, there’s something pool (exclusively available for the use of the quite distinct about this place. stargazing customers), lying on a floating 1. Explore the retreating glacier from Lake Tasman hammock, where you start to feel completely 2. Boat tours take visitors around Lake Tasman to First up, the region boasts the world’s larg- held by the expanse of this earth. Close, is, of explore the icebergs and retreating glacier est gold-tier status dark-sky reserve, meaning course, a relative term when describing the 3. Tekapo Hot Springs is a day and night venue it has some of the purest night skies in the proximity of the stars and galaxies above us. for visitors world. Street lighting is regulated not only Still, in some way, there is a feeling of close- 4. Guides from the Glacier Explorers Tour tell the with the amount of light that is allowed ness to the stars. This was certainly aided by story of the ice but also the direction of the light, focusing Sam, who tells us stories of star lore, which it downwards. The region is proud of its bring the constellations to life. At the same MAR-APR 2022 Vol 15 47 Astro-tourism experiences, helping to con- time, he answers our questions and gives us nect and inspire visitors to the dark sky above. tips on how to use the stars for navigation or how to recognise the nationality of satellites. One of several operators in and around Lake Tekapo is Tekapo Star Gazing. Part of Tekapo “There is definitely a trend of a Springs, it offers a one-of-a-kind experience in stellar relaxation. The one-and-a-half-hour experience is the only guided hot pools and stargazing experience in New Zealand, allow- ing visitors to combine an introduction to the Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve with a relaxing soak in the hot pools. And it’s quite a divine experience. Imme- diately from arrival you are greeted with an ambient atmosphere, in part created by the red lights leading your way. Sam Blair, our guide for the night, explains that the red light has the least effect on our night vision and minimal impact on others. We are then wel- comed with an astronomy-themed quiz – did you know there are around 250 billion stars in our Milky Way galaxy? – and then taken out to the viewing platform where three 9¼ inch-aperture mirrored telescopes await us. With the help of Sam’s expert knowledge and snazzy laser pointer, we are guided to see the brightest stars, the familiar and unfamiliar 4

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