NZToday-Special Edition South Island Road Trips

Special Edition NZTODAY RV LIFESTYLE COLLECTION South Island Road Trips collection PETCTROOHIFSMEEELYXCSPAOPOTANULUTNDORRTIORAHENVEL Queenstown TRSoRuOthIAIsPlaDnSd to the Catlins Karamea CentgroalldOttraagilos to the glaciers & Jackson Bay TakGaokldaeHnilBl atoy CLtoehwMriisosttPcuhaeusksrachvia Allan Dick’s $9.95 inc. TRADING AS MAGAZINE SOLUTIONS Top 10-day roadie GST ex- Queenstown Mckenzie Country - SH8 TimTeakruapToo





5/2020 Nelson to Wharariki Beach - GoogSlepMecapisal Edition Gre1y8m/0o5u/2t0h2t0o Okarito - Google Maps Picton to Greymouth - Google Maps South Island ROAD TRIPSararikiBeach Greymouth DtorivOek1a6r1itkom, 2 h 53Pmicinton to Greymouth Drive 227 km, 3 h 9 min Drive 583 km, 8 h 2 collection 8 14 19 18/05/2020 Gillespie Beach Campsite to Haast Pass-Makarora Road, Haast 7886 - Google Maps 18/05/2020 Gillespie Beach Campsite to Haast Pass- ODamriavreu t2o4M5oktumek,a3-hGo2o2glme Minaps Okarito, 7886 to Gillespie Beach, West Coast - GooMgle Maakpsarora Road, Haast 7886 Drive 694 km, 9 886 to Gillespie Beach, West Coast Drive 79.9 km, 1 h 35 mOinamaru to Motueka 26 33 38 Map data ©2020 50 km Map data ©2020 20 km Map data ©2020 20 km 8 h 21 min 2 vhia53Smtainte Highway 6 3 h 9 min via State Highway 63 and State 583 km Hwy 3 h1691mkmin without tra c 227 km 8 h 21 min without tra c Explore Okarito Explore Greymouth 18/05/2020 Oamaru to Oamaru - Google Maps Oamaru to Christchurch - Google Maps Oamaru to Oamaru Drive 806 km, 11 h 16 min king Lots More Drive 440 km, 5 h 42 min Hotels Gas stations Parking Lots More 50StateGroceriesHotels Gas statiMoanpsdatPa a©r2k02in0 g L5 okmts 58MoreGroceries Map data ©2020 20 km 1 h 35 min 79.9 km via State Highway 6 3 h 22 min Manapouri, 9679 to Q3uehen2st2owmn i-nGwooigtlheoMuatptsra c 245 km to Queenstown Drive 1,361 km, 17 h 35 min Explore Haast Pass-Makarora Road Parking Lots More 18/05/2020 Queenstown to Invercargill - Google Maps Queenstown to Invercargill Drive 541 km, 8 h 16 min a/Collingwood,+7073/Pakawau,+7073/Puponga+hilltop+walk+-+Farewell+Spit+%26+Puponga+… 1/1 68 84Map data ©2020 50 km Groceries Hotels Gas stations Parking Lots More Map data ©2020 100 km Map data ©2020 20 km 5 h 42 min via SH 1via SH 1 11 h 16 min 9 h 4 min Google and the Google logo are registered trademarks of Google LLC, used with permission. 440 km 806 km 11 h 16 min without tra c 9 h 4 min without tra c 694 kmhttps://www.google.co.nz/maps/dir/Picton/Westport/Granity/Karamea/Seddonville,+7891/Greymouth/@-41.8436108,171.4847765,8z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m3 ://www.google.co.nz/maps/dir/GErexypmloourteh/OHoakmitiakar/uHokitika+Gorge,+Kokatahi+7881/Ross,+7812/Okarito/@-42.8668915,170.1259298,9z/data=!3m1!4b1… 1/1 Explore Motueka ns Parking Lots More Groceries Hotels Gas stations Parking Lots More +Josef+Glacier,+West+Coast/Fox+Glacier/Lake+Matheson,+West+Coast/Gillespie+Beach,+West+Coas… 1/1 Live tra c Fast Slow Map data ©2020 20 km via Crown Range Rd and Cardrona 8 h 16 min

CONTENTS 8 Golden Bay From caves and golden-sand beaches to the Heaphy Track and Cape Farewell, Golden Bay lives up to the promise of its name. Jane Dove Juneau takes a roadie over the Takaka hill to Golden Bay’s Farewell Spit, exploring Takaka, Collingwood and Cape Farewell, as well as birdwatching and collecting cockles. Accessible from Nelson, Picton and Christchurch. NZT70 14 West Coast Karamea to Jackson Bay Maps: 14-19-26-33 A drive like no other in the country – Picton to Westport and north to the end of the road at Karamea, then south through Westport along the stunning coastal drive to Punakaiki Rocks and on to Greymouth. Explore the Grey District before continuing south down through Ross, Hokitika, Franz Josef, through history-laden gold-and-glacier countryside right to the end of the road at Jackson Bay, by editor Robyn Dallimore. Accessible from Picton, Christchurch or Queenstown via Wanaka. Extracted from four editorials in NZT issues 67, 68, 69 and 70 38 Canterbury to Tasman A road less travelled – Christchurch to Motueka via Lewis Pass and the Shenandoah. Allan Dick heads north exploring well-known villages along the way, while following SH7 into the Southern Alp mountains and heading north to Motueka via Murchison. Accessible from Nelson, Picton or Christchurch. RV-NZTL Vol 3 50 Canterbury to Mackenzie A quick round-trip from Ōamaru to Fairlie and Lake Tekapo, Allan Dick heads off for a couple of days, taking in the history, villages and people along the way. Accessible from Christchurch on extended road trip, or from Dunedin. NZT80 58 Central Otago Allan Dick leaves Ōamaru in his 4WD Nissan to traverse the roads – both tarmac and off-road – through Central Otago on a round-trip from Ōamaru heading south to Dunedin, weaving across Central Otago, through Clyde and on to Cromwell, then returning via southern Mackenzie country to Ōmarama and down the Waitaki Valley back to Ōamaru. On the way regaling readers with golden tales from the past while remote DOC camping, exploring and meeting characters along the way. This route can be accessed from Queenstown, Dunedin and Invercargill. NZT 67 68 Central Otago-Southland-Fiordland Allan Dick shares his top 10-day South Island roadie, a round-trip starting from Queenstown and encompassing Central Otago, Waitaki, Dunedin as well as a Southland side trip to Te Anau and Milford Sound. The quintessential southern road trip experience. Accessible from Queenstown, Dunedin and Invercargill. RV-NZTL Vol 1 84 Queenstown to Catlins Coast Lake Wakatipu to the Catlins – Justine Tyerman explores Southland, driving, camping, cycling, tramping and taking in the villages and historic trails along the way, starting in Queenstown ending at the Waipapa Point lighthouse on the Catlins coast. Accessible from Queenstown, Dunedin and Invercargill. RV-NZTL Vol 3

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SSCTUENNINCESRORUOTAHDEIRENS W hen the going gets tough, the tough get going, in these pages. Then the Blenheim to Kaikōura drive – we on the road that is. have driven that hundreds of times, and recently took the Exploring our own country is on everyone’s train trip as well. This coastline is spectacular. I would love minds as we move through winter, dreaming to have shared this trip with readers, but alas there weren’t of our next holiday away from home. Many enough pages in this issue to cover them all. Kiwis are starting ‘must-do’ lists around their local regions and master lists of destinations further afield that should be On a more general note, we look forward to bringing our visited in the future. readers more inspiring road trips to enjoy in the North Island in spring time. We have compiled a collection of popular road trip stories from previous issues of the magazines. We know our readers The entire world has been through and is going through use our travel stories as a reference point and a ‘guide’ for such a dramatic and anxious time with COVID-19, a time looking to get the best and most from the magazine to plan such as we’ve seen in entertaining fictional movies and TV their own personal adventures around the country – deciding shows, not a time we imagined we would actually live through. which places in New Zealand they would like to explore first, out of all the places they have read about or seen pictures of, Now we need to move forward to a different future, with and then planning to make it happen. many businesses disappearing, or morphing and changing to meet the new normal. Our ability to travel and to spend The Rock and I have travelled New Zealand extensively, as a few dollars as we go is going to be the vital blood in the has our most loved writer Allan Dick – I would say between veins of numerous businesses around the whole country, so us we would have covered 2–300,000km up and down dale we hope this magazine goes some way to inspire you all to over the years. Allan shares his ‘best 10-day road trip’ out of do just that – get out and explore your local area and your Queenstown here. For Bruce and me personally, driving from neighbouring regions, spread out and do what must be done, Picton to the West Coast then down to Haast is up in the top have a thorough look around and explore your own country; three trips, along with the drive from Haast to Wanaka – it’s the best and most beautiful country in the world – millions only about 170km, so can be driven in less than two hours, of overseas visitors can’t be wrong – right? Think of a place but is so stunning it can easily take a whole day, especially if like the Tongariro Crossing – just hours away from millions you stop at all the DOC and pull-over spots and take in the of you readers. Tongariro usually boasts 3000 walkers per walks. The Blue Pools and Thunder Falls at the least should day but now there’s only a handful of people on the track. be explored. I love this drive so much, dramatic landscape, Abel Tasman is the same. Queenstown has dropped back into sparkling clear water, and ferns, moss and greenery abound the 1970s and I can’t wait to visit down there again – which as you drive through to the lakes’ region. is funny as the last time we went there we decided we were done with the touristy very busy vibe there, but now we are Another drive that battles for top place really is the drive champing at the bit to get south. from Te Anau to Milford Sound – that really can’t be beaten, and I now put that to number one as I think about it. Stopping Safe travels, happy dreaming and planning, but most of at all the DOC pull-over spots and view spots can take hours, all take care out there. seeing and going through the Homer Tunnel is another incredible highlight. If you’re lucky it will rain either during Robyn Dallimore the inward or outward leg of your drive here as the waterfalls are almost magical, in a soft mist, no actual hard rain just the Editor Publisher stunning after-effects. Allan writes of that drive in his story Bruce Mountain Publisher TRADING AS MAGAZINE SOLUTIONS ISSN 1176-3051 Editor Robyn Dallimore E: [email protected] Sub edit + proofing team Thiers Halliwell, Allan Walton NZTODAY RV Lifestyle Collection is published by RnR Publishing Ltd Advertising Enquiries Bruce Mountain E: [email protected] M: 021 657 090 Ph: + 64 6 306 6030 Office / Subscriptions Laura Atkinson E: [email protected] PO Box 220, 28 Oxford Street, Design + Production Cameron Leggett - camleggettphoto.com Martinborough, 5711, New Zealand Contributors Robyn Dallimore, Allan Dick, Jane Dove Juneau, Justine Tyerman Cover Photo Bruce Mountain – Shotover Bridge Queenstown Image + Printing Ovato Disclaimer RnR Publishing Ltd uses due care and diligence in the preparation of this magazine, but is not responsible or liable for any mistakes, misprints, omissions or typographical errors. RnR Publishing Ltd prints advertisements provided to the publisher, but gives no warranty and makes no representation to the truth, accuracy or sufficiency of any description, photograph or statement. RnR Publishing Ltd accepts no liability for any loss that may be suffered by any person who relies either wholly or in part upon any description, photograph or statement contained herein. Advertisers are advised that all advertising must conform to the ASA Codes of New Zealand Advertising; full details and codes book available from asa.co.nz. RnR Publishing Ltd reserves the right to refuse any advertisement for any reason. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher or editor. All material gathered in creating NZTODAY RV Lifestyle Collection magazine is copyright 2020 RnR Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved in all media. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without the express written permission of the publisher. NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Special Edition 5

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TIA WELCOME A s we begin to emerge from a crisis that saw important to be written off and forgotten about. By Chris Roberts, Chief Executive the tourism industry forced into a deep We need to protect those passionate tourism Tourism Industry Aotearoa slumber, I’ve started posing a question workers, support the survival of their businesses, to those closest to me. How much of our and promote the recovery of New Zealand’s own backyard have you seen? Have you tourism so that it can emerge as an even more done your own great Kiwi road trip yet — the one sustainable, world-class industry. Every New our friends from overseas spent years planning Zealand region, home and family will be worse and saving for? off if we fail. When we tell others about our nation’s Those international visitors are no longer here breathtaking natural landscapes, are we doing so to take tales of majestic Fiordland or adventures from second-hand news or from lived experience? in Queenstown home with them. We may be able to soon welcome our Aussie cousins again, If you can, now is the time to carve out your but we cannot expect to see international visitors own great Kiwi adventure. This is an opportunity from other countries for quite some time. If other like no other. countries do well in controlling the virus, there may be a gradual opening of other borders. Tourism has been hit harder than any other industry by the COVID-19 crisis, but New But our businesses can’t survive on that hope. Zealand’s offering remains as sound as ever. So, from the breathtaking beauty of Aotearoa’s We have the natural assets. We have the quality highest peak to our very own Dunedin castle, businesses, offering experiences both safe and this is the time to see it all. While it’s quiet, and exciting, with something to suit all ages and tastes. when your neighbours really need you. We have extremely passionate tourism people waiting to show us just what it is that attracts so If you can, get out and travel your own backyard. many people to New Zealand from all corners You don’t have to spend big to make a huge of the world. difference. But do use the local tourism businesses, knowing that you are helping to save jobs. Choose Doubtful Sound is still there; a new and vibrant a destination, find out what’s on offer and enjoy Christchurch is open and ready to explore. From the ride. the wineries of Marlborough, Central Otago and Waipara, to the turquoise waters of the West Coast’s A few years ago, our family spent four weeks Hokitika Gorge, and the kiwi-filled forests of touring the South Island. Our boys, now young Stewart Island, the South Island is alive and well. adults, still talk about that trip as one of their life’s highlights. I’m looking forward to seeing some What we don’t have is the international visitors, of you in the South Island on my own next great whose decisions to spend in New Zealand helps Kiwi road trip. all of these places to thrive. So, to make sure our tourism industry remains one of the world’s Ngā mihi, greatest, we need as many Kiwis as possible to Chris Roberts get out there and support it. Chief Executive Tourism Industry Aotearoa Before the COVID-19 crisis, tourism accounted for over 20% of New Zealand’s exports, supporting almost 400,000 jobs across the country. It is too NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Specail Edition 7

TASMAN Golden Bay REMGOOTLEDEFNARBEAWYELL At the northwestern corner of the South Island, an unusual looking finger of land reaches far out into the ocean - if the arc continued from the end of Farewell Spit it would encircle Golden Bay. From caves and golden sand beaches to the Heaphy Track and Cape Farewell, Golden Bay lives up to the promise of its name. Words + Photos Jane Dove Juneau 1 2 3 8 NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Speciaail Edition

4 out in the park in contrast to the healthy, tanned alternative-lifestyle folks from the 1960s and 1970s I see running errands. T he road over the Takaka Hill winds up out of the Motueka valley to the saddle at 791 metres. The views back down to Tasman The Arts Bank Building catches my eye. I wander into the old bank Bay are impressive, and looking north we can see Golden Bay and enjoy the amazing art exhibition with a wide range of local art. with the mountains of Kahurangi National Park to the south. A number of caves and sinkholes have been discovered here near At the desk there’s a bearded man with long dreadlocks in animated the top of Takaka Hill in the marble karst rock formations, including conversation with another dreadlocked man from East Africa. I Harwood’s Hole the deepest vertical shaft in New Zealand. interrupt their conversation, which happens to be an interview for the local radio station. Grant Knowles, chairman of the Golden Bay Arts Nearby, guided tours operate into the Ngarua Caves, where there Council-come-breakfast show host/wood sculptor, is enthusiastic about are examples of stalagmites and a skeletal display of an extinct moa. the local arts scene. We wind down the hill past the Cobb Valley into the bustling town “I love the way Golden Bay has such a high percentage of artists and of Takaka. A group of young, slightly scruffy wannabe hippies hang creative people,” says Grant. The gallery supports over 50 artists, professional artists alongside emerging artists. There are 11 galleries in the area and a brochure on the Golden Bay Arts Trail will lead you to some fine artwork that includes painting, sculpture and jewellery. Grant continues with his interview with Muiggi Kimani (aka ‘Kim The Crazy.’) 1. Farewell Spit stretches as far as the eye can see 2. Wharariki Beach is a 15-minute walk from the road end 3. Cape Farewell was named by Captain Cook in 1770, as it was the last bit of New Zealand seen by his crew as they sailed home 4. After walking up from the farm car park, this is the view from the cliff edge out to the tip of Cape Farewell latitude 40° 30′, longitude 172° 41′ 5. Muiggi Kimani, a performance poet, with Grant 5 Knowles at the Takaka Arts Bank Building NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Special Edition 9

TASMAN Golden Bay 6 SUBSCRIPTION ONLY $49.95 for 6 issues (RRP $59.70 – 6 issues, 1 year) Orderyour copies online or P: 06 306 6041 to order direct AosnmViayrorttuuparhltoamnbealegotar,zlianpetop! Digital subscription option now available, read the magazine online & on the road for just $20 – 6 issues Scan to sign up & receive our regular RV Express Newsletter by email for FREE! www.rvlifestyle.co.nz rvlifestyle 10 NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Special Edition

Kim, a performance poet was visiting Takaka off up the Aorere River, ending at Brown Hut, the and had performed in the village market. start of the Heaphy Track. The 82-kilometre track through Kahurangi National Park, combines alpine In summer the population of Takaka/Golden environment with a nikau palm coastline on the Bay triples in size. The colourful town has a good West Coast. The hike takes five to six days and supply of healthy restaurants, cafés and bakeries. travels though ancient beech forest, alpine tussock, I’m attracted to the Wholemeal Café in the Takaka across rivers and by limestone caves. theatre building. The Wholemeal Trading Company was started in 1977 by a group of young settlers At Pakawau we find a grassy campsite overlooking lured to Golden Bay by cheap land and the dream the beach to use as a base to explore Cape Farewell of a simple lifestyle. They started as a bulk food and the wild Wharariki Beach. There’s also camping co-op, transforming into a wholefoods shop and at Puponga and at Wharariki about 15 minutes’ walk café in the theatre. I love the old movie star posters from the beach. The water is warm so we both have and the atmosphere created by the colourful décor a swim while the tide is in and wash off the day’s in the café. travel. After dinner the clouds showed potential for a good sunset. The tide is out as we wander along The Golden Bay/Takaka area has many interesting the wide expanse of sand, on the lookout for cockles. places to visit like Te Waikoropupū Springs (often The bay lights up with colour as the sun goes down. just called Pupu Springs), Rawhiti cave or Anatoki In the distance the blue hills behind Takaka are the salmon farm, or you can walk the Heaphy Track, 7 only interruption of the wide expansive landscape. visit Kahurangi National Park, Abel Tasman National As the road meanders along the shoreline towards Farewell Spit, past Park, or enjoy the golden sand beach of Totaranui at the northern end the cockle factory, the sea disappears further into the distance. At low of the park. As we have limited time on our trip we move on towards tide a thin blue line shimmers like a mirage across hundreds of hectares our final destination of Farewell Spit. of sand and mudflats. The inner side of the spit is very shallow and the tidal flats provide a haven for New Zealand and migratory birds. Collingwood is an interesting little town on the banks of the Aorere Hundreds of black and pied oystercatchers dot the sand flats far into the River. Gold rush fever erupted here in 1856 when gold was discovered distance feeding on cockles and other small creatures living in the sand. in the Aorere River. It was one of New Zealand’s first major gold fields, but after three years the diggers left. At Collingwood, a road branches 6. Windswept trees on the track to Pillar Point 7. The Takaka Theatre building is now home to the Wholemeal Café 8. Looking east from Cape Farewell towards Farewell Spit 8 11NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Special Edition

TASMAN Golden Bay 9 Curious to see what the cockle beds are like we walk down across the information about bird migration at Farewell Spit. The New Zealand sand towards the ocean. Thousands of cockle shells are on the beach. Ornithological Society has studied shorebirds here for 40 years and a Every now and then a trailer with sacks of cockles goes by, collected from total of 37 different species has been recorded. Farewell Spit is on the a spot away in the distance along the beach. The harvesting operation is East Asian–Australasian flyway. Each year over four million shorebirds run by Westhaven Shellfish, which holds a quota to collect the littleneck migrate between their breeding grounds in northern Asia, Siberia clams from the sustainable fishery at Pakawau. The clams or cockles and Alaska to non-breeding grounds in New Zealand and Australia. are placed in a wet-store pool to purge sand and grit before processing. Farewell Spit is an important staging area for both migratory and After digging many holes, we have a bag of cockles for dinner. resident shorebirds called waders. The phenomenon of Farewell Spit is remarkable. It’s like a long We drive into a farm paddock to access the track to the cape. After a white finger that points towards the east. From the viewpoint above short uphill walk we reach Cape Farewell. The view from the cliff top is the information centre, the spit almost appears to reach the distant dramatic, with a scary drop down to the ocean. The rock faces below hills of French Pass – it’s as if two outstretched arms wrap towards have been carved by centuries of pounding waves. I decide to take the each other to make a circle. And curiously the spit faces east–west, not scenic route along the cliff top at Puponga Farm Park to Wharariki north–south as I imagined. Beach. Rick follows under protest. The walk along the cliffs has some steep sections — ideal if you’re part mountain goat — but the reward In the lunch line at the Farewell Spit Café I meet a very excited is the view over a series of dazzling white sand dunes down to a line older lady who describes the lighthouse trip as “the opportunity of of hollow windswept waves at Wharariki Beach. We follow the lagoon a lifetime.” When I was young our family took the four-wheel drive down to the beach and discover the rocky Archway Islands. There’s tour out to the lighthouse at the end of Farewell Spit, but as there are something about Wharariki Beach that makes you feel as if you’re near a number of interesting walk options I want to explore, we pass on the a cape. There’s a remote sense of place here. Farewell Spit tour. It’s late afternoon by the time we get back to our car and we’re hot The café doubles as a visitor information centre and has detailed 12 NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Special Edition

9. Archway Islands, Wharariki Beach 10. People are dwarfed on the dazzling white sand dunes at Wharariki Beach and tired. Rick cooks up the cockles. Revived, I make a late afternoon charge up to Pillar Point lighthouse, looking for a view of Farewell Spit. Unless you have a helicopter or drone, it’s difficult to capture a sense of the spit. Rick thinks I am slightly possessed. He could be right. The late afternoon light softens as I stop to photograph a cluster of manuka trees, growing sideways, blown by the prevailing wind. It’s a magic time of day, just me and a few disinterested cattle. I race up the hill by the lighthouse and am finally rewarded with an elevated view of Farewell Spit. The Old Man Range presents a craggy face looking down towards Puponga. I don’t linger, as the sun will soon be down. I meet Rick partway down the track, and we race over to the cliff top in time to see the pastel sunset colours over the ocean at Cape Farewell. From the sheltered bays of the Marlborough Sounds across the varied landscape to the West Coast, we’re now at the northernmost point of the South Island: latitude 40° 30′, longitude 172° 41′. The remoteness and wild beauty of Cape Farewell stirs a primal sense of place. Our land is amazing. 10 13NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Special Edition

WESTCOAST Karamea to Greymouth GKARREYAMMOEAUTTOH Black gold, pancake rocks and a Great Walk, Robyn Dallimore traverses the rugged and beautiful coast Words Robyn Dallimore Photos Bruce Mountain 1 14 NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Special Edition

2 Westport is the second-largest town on the Coast, a service town for around 10,000 residents in the Buller district. It has trendy cafés serving It’s always a question when we drive off the Interislander ferry: “Shall yummy food as good as anywhere in New Zealand, historic and art-deco we go right to the West Coast, or left to the East Coast?” buildings, and for those interested in looking through the area’s history, I always hold my breath just a little because I love going west myself, the Coaltown Museum is well worth a few hours. love the grandeur of the mountains, the green lush ferns and the sparkling clear water tumbling over itself to get to the larger rivers and out to sea. There’s a variety of accommodation around the town to suit all budgets, A recent trip saw me cheering as the West Coast won. Now, which way from the Westport Holiday Park for campers and RVs, to motels, should we go? Through stunning Queen Charlotte Sound via Nelson, hotels, lodges and B&Bs. Glamping or canopy-camping is becoming then down to Westport? This drive has a fair few hills to climb and our popular, and there are various options available in this genre as well as wheels are not light and fleet underfoot – we travel in a 7m Mitsubishi backpackers and hostels. Canter motorhome called the RocknRobyn. We head to the supermarket to stock up, then head up to Granity to An easy decision – in this case, we take our favoured route through visit a friend who lives right on the beach in an old cottage. The next Renwick, then through to St Arnaud stopping at the most beautiful day we plan to head to Karamea. Lake Rotoiti for a break, then through to Murchison and onward to the picturesque Buller Gorge. A lovely drive following the Wairau River, Granity is a small village of predominantly older miners’ houses lined up with glorious vineyard, and mountain vistas along the way. on both sides of the road for a couple of kilometres. The distance between the beach and the mountain is only a few hundred metres in places. We stopped for a break at the Buller Gorge Swing Bridge Adventure The community has a small museum and a couple of café-restaurants. and Heritage Park. One of them you’ll find behind the more obvious pub/bar out the Our mission on the day is to reach Westport, so it’s back on the road, front. There are a few accommodation options and a craft shop and – resisting the temptation to stop at one of the many historic sites at Lyell, depending on the day – the local ‘upcycling’ shop could be open as well. the site of a gold rush ghost town – now a campground and the start/ It’s always great to stop over here at friend Jodene’s old cottage – standing finish of the Old Ghost Trail cycleway – and Inangahua Junction which on the back step looking at the ocean, you’d swear it’s higher than the shows the land scars of the large earthquake in 1968. house and is practically in her backyard. In fact, in winter and with a big stormy sea, it is in the backyard, wild and wonderful but worrisome! We did pull over just before the infamous ‘Hawks Crag’, which to me is symbolic as the entrance to the West Coast-Buller region. Here the The Rock isn’t happy though because I have this penchant for road narrows to a single lane and passes under a rock bluff with a hard collecting rocks, and the pink and yellow ones from this area are rock wall on one side, and the mighty Buller/Kawatiri River on the other. particularly enchanting, especially as they aren’t common in many parts of New Zealand. You can experience the river by jet boat or rafting – a couple of operators have licences to operate on the river. 1. Hawks Grag, Buller Gorge, looking eastward 2. Cape Foulwind - Westport. Great walking tracks and views 3. Westport 4. Westport’s main street. A variety of cafés, restaurants, pubs and accommodation are available in this bustling town, and for us, a supermarket 3 4 stop to stock up the cupboards 15NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Special Edition

WESTCOAST Karamea to Greymouth 56 The rocks and stones I collect from these beaches go into my garden snails (Powelliphanta). Many trekkers coming off the Heaphy Track at home for decoration, and so I can share our South Island travel stories have ticked these off their list of ‘most amazing sightings’ from this with friends. The beaches in this small area have polished gemstones – area. Adventure-wise, you can explore mountains, rivers and canyons, you just need to sharpen your eyes and they’ll come to you. raft through glow-worm grottos, explore underworld tunnels, jet boat a mighty river, fish freshwater tributaries or take on the Tasman for It’s just over an hour from Granity to Karamea, and there’s a bit to see gathering your kai moana, or even see dolphins from the beach. Or on the way. From Granity, you can go to the historic Millerton mining just kick back on a beautiful white sand beach, build a shelter from the site, or take one of the Stockton Mine tours. There are a few cafés as driftwood – maybe a fire even – and enjoy a piece of paradise. you travel up the coast as well. We head now to the end of the road, 16km into the Kahurangi We stop at the Cowshed Café at Gentle Annie, at the mouth of the National Park, to the Kohaihai River mouth, the official start/end of Mokihinui River. the Heaphy Track. The drive to Karamea goes inland at this point and we climb the What is surprising to a lot of visitors to the coast is the abundance Karamea Bluff, stopping at Lake Hanlon on the way down for a bit of gorgeous white sandy beaches, and this is no different – it’s such a of a walk-around to stretch the legs, then down to the village of Little stunning area to stop and stay if you get the chance. Wanganui where we stop at the pub for lunch and a chat with locals. Then back on the road to our ultimate destination, the village of Karamea. We explore the tracks and do the loop walk across the suspension bridge and around the Nikau Palm Grove area. Even up here the I’ve heard this area is a microclimate, and this shows with the profuse riverbank offers up a white sandy beach for a picnic. If you have time number of beautiful nikau palms and ferns growing through the bush and the energy, you can do the first hour or so of the famous track. – very lush and sub-tropical looking. Scott’s Beach, Fenian Goldfield and Adams Flat areas are achievable, and historical gold mining tailings and workings can be seen on the way. The number of permanent residents in Karamea fluctuates between 300 and 600 depending on what website you look at. The surrounding Staying a couple of days here is a must, just to absorb the peace and rural area supports a dairy industry, as well as horticultural activities serenity – it’s so beautiful – then it’s back to Westport we go. This time, growing feijoas, tamarillos, limes, cranberries, capsicums and lettuces we stop at the places we missed on the way up – Seddonville has a lot to name a few, both in the backyard and commercially. of history, and the pub is a must-stop of course. We also explored the start of the Old Ghost Trail walk and cycleway, and the old school Of course, tourism is big as well and it’s not surprising with so much that has been converted to a lovely campground for travelers. There’s to do, like a variety of walks from 15 minutes to five days, that’ll work accommodation available here as well. The Old Ghost Trail starts here for all age groups. and finishes over 80km away in Lyell. The Oparara Basin features magnificent arched rock formations and Moving on, we stop at the Charming Creek walkway for a look around limestone cave structures – you can undertake your own trek to these, the 5.5km old tramway track walkway, but the Denniston Plateau is in or a local business offers guided tours. You tend to see and learn so our sights, so we keep going. much more on a tour, especially in a rainforest area like this which is famous for sightings of giant spotted kiwi and giant carnivorous land 7 8 16 NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Special Edition

This is one spot on the West Coast that’s unlike any other, with 9 history, views, a hairy drive up, unpredictable weather conditions, and a unique historic attraction, the Denniston Mine area and the 150-year- 10 old Banbury mine. Located about half an hour north of Westport, the walks along the cliff tops and through bush are great as well. Denniston Incline is classed as the eighth wonder of the world by locals, and when you stand at the top of the precipice where the coal buckets Pancake Rocks or Punakaiki is part of the Paparoa National Park and is dropped over to make the quick trip to the bottom, you see why. the most popular stopover for the majority of tourists. There are excellent accommodation and café options here that’ll meet all budgets; the walk The road is about 9km up from the Waimangaroa turnoff, 15km out over the rocks is amazingly buffered with the bush and flax plantings. north of Westport and is narrow, steep and windy for the motorhome. It can be quite windy at this spot, but amongst the walkways, it can Alternatively, you can walk or cycle up, with a track ascending from become peaceful and quiet with excellent pathways that allow access Conns Creek (yeah right – the incline is really steep!) for most people, including those in wheelchairs. Denniston has been a historic site destination for many years, but 5. Three girlfriends, a sunset on Granity beach – great times recent times have seen a complete upgrade and renovation of the 6. Karamea has a village at its heart, and is the last stop for supplies as you head historical Incline area. An interactive guided mine experience has been to the start of the Heaphy Track developed out of the original Banbury coal shaft. The Department of 7. The verification of your achievement – yep all walkers who complete the Conservation, with the aid of many volunteers and workers, has done Heaphy Track Great Walk get one of these to mark the moment an amazing job on this site. Top-class restorations of the railway lines, 8. Cyclists at the start of the West Coast Wilderness Trail in Greymouth brake head, mine, Q-class hopper wagon, Banbury Arches, and the 9. The most accessible short walk at the start of the Heaphy Track, the 40-minute entire site, are a fantastic tribute to the men and women who eked out Loop track through the beautiful nikau palm grove. You cross the Kohaihai River a living and survived the harshest mine site in the country. over a suspension bridge, the official starting or ending point of the Heaphy Track 10. Denniston Mine, a worthwhile drive up to the plateau displays No wonder they won the 2008 Railway Heritage Trust Award for the restoration work. The Denniston Mine Experience is not currently operating with a change in mining regulations, but on our trip in 2011 we did the experience with a media famil, it was an incredible experience. As I looked into our past coal heritage, I learned about the new products which use this resource today. The peaks and flows of worldwide demand for coal, mirror developments in engineering and the industrial evolution. Today the dirty black 30-million-year-old compressed carbon is used in a wide range of products, from soap and washing powder to perfume, printing ink, sheep dip, antiseptic, weed killer, adhesives, timber preservative – the list goes on. Mining methods have changed as well, with opencast mines being cheaper and safer to operate. Coal from the Denniston Plateau has been classed as some of the best bituminous coal in the world – shiny black gold. After a night in the motorhome on the top of the plateau, we headed back south to Westport to top up the food, with a stop-over at Cape Foulwind, an excellent walk around the cliff top, a visit to the lighthouse, and over to Tauranga Bay to see the seals. True to the name, the wind was pretty good on the day, brisk and refreshing. Next objective – down to Greymouth for the night. The 100km trip from Westport to Greymouth along the coast road, takes in the historical Charleston village, still home to a couple of gold mining historical sites, or you can take a rainforest train up the Nile Valley, and explore caves in one of New Zealand’s largest unmodified cave systems. That comes complete with abseils, climbs, crawls and squeezes – basically that leaves the Rock and me out. Me wriggling through a crack in the ground? That’s just not happening! For a slightly more sedate adventure, try underground rafting and check out the glow-worm caves. There is a lovely café here and a variety of accommodation options can be found on this piece of coast. The Breakers Boutique Accommodation is a beach front bed & breakfast on the Great Coast Road Photos by: Shakey Finger Photography 14kms north of Greymouth. Set on 2 acres of native bush and landscaped gardens Breakers overlooks the Tasman Sea with private access to remote West Coast beach right in front. 17NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Special Edition Four guest rooms all with en-suite bathroom, balcony access and fantastic sea views. Lie in bed and watch the rolling surf and be lulled to sleep by the sound of the breaking waves. Come share our little slice of paradise… For bookings email: [email protected] Ph 03 762 7743 | www.breakers.co.nz

WESTCOAST Karamea to Greymouth 11 11. The flat rock effect is Keeping going, we stop next at Runanga, 6km north of Greymouth, from resistant bands of limestone, separated by where we visit the Dunollie Hotel, a business we very nearly bought softer, thin, mud layers. back in 2004 when we were looking for a new life. Thankfully that The wind, water and salt deal fell through at the time, and we ended up in Martinborough spray strip off the exterior with a vineyard café, but we do enjoy stopping by and seeing how the of the rocks exposing the hotel is doing. The historical miners’ union building still stands a few edges, and eventually streets around the corner. resulting in a collapse on the outside. This area Greymouth is the end of the first part of our trip. This is the epicentre offers a nice walkway, of the West Coast; the main highways from Christchurch, Nelson and blow-holes and wicked Blenheim end here, as does the TranzAlpine train from Christchurch. ocean views. Nearby beaches offer a different view again, looking up at the grandeur of the rock- scape. Photo TWC. And it’s the start of the rest of the West Coast highway heading south to reach Haast and the road through to Wanaka. The accommodation options again are numerous from backpackers, campgrounds and budget motels to luxury apartments and houses. Adventure activities are varied and definitively West Coast style. You can do a 4WD tour into the Southern Alps, then white-water raft back down the mountains, or kit up in wet weather gear and take a quad bike ATV or off-road buggies on a guided tour through bush and streams. IMMERSE YOURSELF IN OVER 100 YEARS OF HISTORY AT ONE OF THE MOST ICONIC HOTELS ON THE WEST COAST ☛ Enjoy friendly atmosphere at our renowned restaurant and bar where you can meet the locals. ☛ Cosy accommodation with room for groups. ☛ Powered motorhome sites available. ☛ Free WIFI. 26 Hart St, Blackball · 04 3732 4705 · [email protected] · blackballhilton.co.nz 18 NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Special Edition

Greymouth to Franz Josef WESTCOAST TOGFRREAYNMZOJUOTSHEF Prospectors rejoice there’s gold to be found in those mountains. In the second part of our extensive West Coast adventure, we explore the history-rich area of Greymouth, where gold and jade still tumble down the mountains, carried by the waters of their crystal-clear streams. Words Robyn Dallimore Photos Bruce Mountain 1 T his region is so rich with history – there are remains of coal or gold townships all over the place, and there are multiple opportunities to walk tramp and cycle to explore them all. Greymouth is the perfect spot to stay a few days to explore the Grey District fully. Locals travel to places like Lake Brunner for their weekends or head up to the infamous Blackball village for lunch at ‘Formerly the Blackball Hilton’ hotel, and to stock up the fridge with their specialty Blackball salamis. This trip saw us relaxing around Greymouth itself for a day, walking part of the river flood wall which now forms part of the new West Coast Wilderness Trail, the four-day, 139km trail that goes from Greymouth to Ross. The Grey River has a long history of flooding, not surprisingly as the mountains behind it get metres of rainfall every year, and the river is the main arterial route for probably hundreds of streams. The town has found itself under water more than 20 times in European history. 2 Blackball This tiny village has a wonderful history, beginning life as a small gold settlement in 1. Lake Mahinapua, the views of the mountains on this lake 1865, but it was the coalfield development in 1893 that really kicked it off. By 1928 the will blow your mind, so perfectly mirrored it’s hard to believe population peaked at 1200 people, today around 320 people live there. Famously in 2. Greymouth or Māwhera, the railway lines cross the main 1908 the miners and their union achieved a half-hour lunch break for workers around street. The Grey River on the right with the flood wall, which the country after a long three-month strike. The status quo had been 15 minutes for is now a very popular walk and cycle trail the miners, which meant they had to eat inside the mine. Their bosses also wanted to increase work to a 10-hour day – the union said ‘Yeah Yeah Nah’ and demanded an eight- hour workday and half-hour lunch. After much drama, hardship and the three-month long strike, the miners won. This led to the formation of the Miners’ Federation, which in 1909 became the Federation of Labour and which in 1987 merged with the Combined State Unions to become the NZ Council of Trade Unions. 19NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Special Edition

WESTCOAST Greymouth to Franz Josef 3 In 1988 Barry Dallas, the mayor at the time, started the momentous We loved the photography gallery, Nimmo’s, and took in the History project of building a flood protection wall around the town, that was House Museum. That evening we spent relaxing on the beach, watching completed in 1990. This gave the confidence to build and develop more the waves roll in, until I spotted a beautiful round white rock which of the town centre, and it has worked a treat. seemed to call out “I want go home with you”, and ran to get it for my collection before it was swept back out to sea. The cycle trail goes from town to the coast, which you then follow for 7km before starting to head inland to Kumara. We walked part of the The next day we headed south and stopped in at Shantytown Heritage coastal path, then headed back to Greymouth and Monteith’s Brewery Park, an 1880s replica gold town. There’s a lot to do here with the ‘living Co – we heard from many people this is a ‘must-visit’, so thought it history’ museum with over 10,000 items, or the latest holographic was time to tick it off the list with a nice lunch in what was a lovely technology in the theatre and a steam train ride. If you’re travelling building and set-up. with kids, they’ll love this place. We practiced our gold panning skills, loved the steam train ride through the bush, and had a cuppa at the café That afternoon we explored the shops, of which there are plenty. WEST COAST ROAD TRIP ITINERARIES – GREYMOUTH/MĀWHERA Central to the West Coast is the largest town in the region Greymouth – Mawhera. A perfect Greymouth i-SITE Visitor Centre place to base yourself when visiting the region with its access to many of the attractions West Coast Travel Centre that bring our visitors to explore our district and the wider West Coast. 164 Mackay Street, Greymouth On our door step you enter into one of the World’s TOP 10 Coastal Scenic drives! Along with +64 3 7687080 – 0800GREYMOUTH one of our national parks offering tramping, day walks and mountain biking. You can access the Glaciers within one day and visit the many historical sites that are throughout our district. [email protected] www.westcoasttravel.co.nz Sit back and relax with the world famous TranzAlpine train bringing you over to the West www.explorewestcoast.co.nz Coast. We can arrange a rental car or campervan for you to continue on your road trip holiday. The Grey District offers a range of freedom camping sites, DOC campsites and seaside holidays parks, the perfect place for that beach bonfire as you watch the sun setting with our famous West Coast sunsets! The Greymouth i-SITE Visitor Centre can offer you itineraries for your road trips. Contact us with what you are interested in seeing and how many days you have to spend exploring our area. The team will put together your Must Do! Must See! Best Deals! Road Trip! ✔ Hidden Gems ✔ Local Experts ✔ Shop Local ✔ See the Best Deals through good i-SITE! ✔ Trusted National Visitor Information & Booking Centre 20 NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Special Edition

before we headed off, next stop Goldsborough DOC camp. I have one favourite shop here, which is ‘The Possum People’ on the As we drove, we could see the cycle trail heading to Kumara on SH73. main street. From all my travels around our land, I’ve found possum products to be cheapest here on the Coast, excellent quality and We kept going down the main road and turned inland at Awatuna everything you might want – just saying … following signs to the DOC camp. A gold rush kicked off here late in 1864, and the population spiked at 1000, then dropped back to zero as We looked into one of the pounamu shops where you can pick your the gold ran out. Nowadays, DOC has a great campsite and lots of walks own piece of raw greenstone, and then spend the day learning to design to be explored but stay on the paths because the bush still hides mine and carve your own piece of jewellery. Or you can purchase something shafts for the unwary. We wanted to stay here because it’s a public gold from the lovely pieces on sale. fossicking area in the creek, and if you believe a word here and there, gold is still to be found. We met a couple of other campers crouched The history of the area is well represented in the Hokitika Museum over the creek, as we went in to have a go. telling the stories of gold, mining, tree felling and even whitebait (unfortunately closed for earthquake work at present). There is also the Turns out my knees aren’t good at squatting, kneeling was a no-goer Sock World and Sock Knitting Machine Museum in town, I kid you not. for me as well, and I wasn’t very good at digging down with my pan to get the stuff under the bigger stones. In other words, this gold panning 4 wasn’t, er, panning out for me right then. I’ll need a little stool to enjoy 3. Greymouth, view over the Grey River. Photo TWC. this activity. 4. The buildings in Shantytown are themed inside, staff dress in theme as well 5. The river flood wall now forms the start of the new West Coast Wilderness To me, gold panning is a bit like fishing – if I don’t get a bite in the Trail, for walking or cycling first half hour, we have to move, so no gold and my attention is soon gone. The thought of gold panning and finding gold is a little more romantic than the reality methinks. Off we went for a walk instead, followed by lunch and then the decision was made to get back in the motorhome and head to Hokitika for the night. It’s typical of us at times – can’t sit still, and we have friends in Hoki, so we just had to drop in. The entrance to Hokitika’s main town area is dominated by a very grand-looking clock tower, officially called the ‘The Westland South African War and Coronation Memorial Clock Tower’. It was unveiled in 1903 by Mrs Seddon, the wife of Premier Richard John Seddon (King Dick), a well-known West Coast politician and identity. Today, there isn’t a row of pubs lining the main street—Revell Street—as there was in 1864 when there were 84 – now the shops are dominated with art studios and pounamu carvers, painters, glassblowers, sculptors, and gold and silversmiths, and there are cool cafés, pubs and restaurants with lots of yummy food options. 5 21NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Special Edition

WESTCOAST Greymouth to Franz Josef The shop I loved most was the Gold Room, where gold prospecting history is represented with miniature displays, but more importantly 6 I got to play with a large gold nugget, which was amazing. Hokitika is a lovely little town of around 3300 people that really has come a long way since my first visit back in 1980. It’s another town The Hokitika area has a lot to offer, with Lake Kaniere and the Hokitika born out of a gold rush in the nearby Taramakau Valley in 1864. It’s sited Gorge not far away, so it’s an area well worth taking time to stay and beside the Hokitika River mouth, the closest anchorage to the discovery. explore, this is one of the most stunning ‘gorges’ in the country to see. Unfortunately, the sandbars here are on the move constantly, so the The cycle trail comes down the Lake Kaniere road to Hokitika, and waterway really wasn’t suitable as a port and harbour. Between 1865 and from there it continues the 36km section to Ross, taking in the historic 1867, there were 108 vessels stranded on the bar, with 32 totally lost. It’s tramline to the West Coast Treetops Walk said that more than 37,000 people landed at Hokitika in that period, and of that 44 per cent of New Zealand immigrants at the time arrived here, many A favourite place to camp when we have the motorhome is Lake of them from Ireland. At its peak, the main street boasted 102 hotels within Mahinapua, just south of Hokitika. There’s a long windblown bush/ an 800-metre radius, and 6000 people were based here. Hokitika means tree line running parallel to the road, then on the left, a brown tourism ‘direct return’. sign to the lake. You see a hole in the bush where the road access is, and 6. The Westland South African War and Coronation Memorial Clock the road disappears. It’s a beautiful drive into the DOC camping area, Tower. What a majestic piece to grace the entrance to the town and another stunningly clear lake, today reflecting the Southern Alps 7. All Kiwis know about whitebait, and West Coast whitebait behind it in the most spectacular way. There are some great short and is highly prized. Inset Bruce is having a go with the net at longer walk options here and historical remains to check out. the entrance to the Hokitika River. Main picture, view of the hardstands up the river With bush all around, this is a sheltered spot to stay, and so beautiful. Not far from the lake is the Treetop Walkway, where you can climb up 20 metres to get a bird’s-eye view of the tops of the ancient rimu and kāmahi trees – if that’s not high enough, they have 40-metre tower to really get the heart going. But, if that’s not for you, you can just sit down and have a cup of tea and enjoy the environment. Ross is just down the road—about 27km—another gold town settled in 1865. Its population peaked at 2500, but today averages around 300. In 1909 the biggest gold nugget ever found in New Zealand was discovered near here. It weighed in at 3.1kg and being so large was christened ‘the Honourable Roddy Nugget’, after the then-Minister of Mines Roderick McKenzie. The Ross Goldfields Information and Heritage centre is worthy of a stop, with gold panning available to learn and try in the creek. A great walk around the water race takes you past mining relics to a mine tunnel entrance. It runs alongside a lake, which has been created by gold mining over the year. The current owners are the Birchfield gold mining operation. An aerial view of the open cast mine is a little disturbing, but the resulting lake is picturesque. The main street boasts a couple of cafés and petrol as well, Ross is the last stop before Franz Josef, so you’re heading into the more remote South Westland region. We stocked up with bits and bobs and fueled-up the motorhome. Time to hit the road again – destination for the night, Ōkārito, on the coast about 100km south, just before Franz Josef. Moving south we pass Lake Ianthe, Hari Hari, a small village mainly famous for the replica bi-plane displayed on the side of the road – a memorial to Australian, Guy Menzies, who by all accounts took off from Sydney in 1931 to attempt the first solo Trans-Tasman flight, without telling mum and dad. They couldn’t believe the news when they were contacted to say Guy had crashed upside down in the La Fontaine swamp, on the West Coast of New Zealand. Menzies survived but was killed when his RAF seaplane was shot down over the Mediterranean in 1940. Another spot here that we haven’t been to as yet, is the Amethyst hot springs – yes, natural hot springs on the side of the Wanganui River. Box of Delights is an Old Fashioned Lolly and Giftware Shop in the Heart of Hokitika. We stock Candy from all over the world, Souvenirs, T-Shirts and Gifts. 86 Revell Street, Hokitika yoPhuoncea: 0n3 7a55ls7o14O5 rodr e02r7 o25n6l5i6n9e2 Eamtaiwl: [email protected] 22 NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Special Edition

7 Ross Beach TOP 10 Holiday Park is a boutique holiday park, unlike any other Top 10 you have seen… All our accommodation and amenities are in repurposed and upcycled shipping containers. It’s amazing how much comfort you can fit into a small space. We sit right next to the Tasman sea and most nights you can drift off to sleep listening to the sound of the ocean breaking on the shoreline. Blissfully relaxed amongst our natural landscape of NZ Flax. Promo Code NZtoday for a 20% discount on 2 nights stay in any Pod or site. Valid to 1st June 2021. rossbeachtop10.co.nz 145 Ross Beach Rd Ross Westcoast New Zealand 03 4298 277 021 428 566 [email protected] 23NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Special Edition

WESTCOAST Greymouth to Franz Josef 8 Being that this area sits on the Alpine Fault where the Australian and arrive in spring each year to breed and leave around January. There’s Pacific tectonic plates meet, pushing up the Southern Alps by 7 to10mm a local business that has the concession to run tours out to see them a year, there are hot water spots to be found. Campermate has the exact during the season. location, apparently a 15-minute walk from a car park, but do take a shovel to dig a pool, and lots of waterproof sand fly repellent! Out from Whataroa we take the Forks Ōkārito Road turnoff and drive on sealed road the 13km to Ōkārito on a lagoon on the coast. This Continuing south, we come through Whataroa, this small area is was a pop-up gold town in 1865-66, but now it’s a small settlement with home to the only breeding colony of white herons in the country. They a few houses and around 30 residents. The population got up to 1250 9 10 • Ideally situated for cyclists experiencing the West Coast Wilderness Trail • Centrally located for visiting attractions including Lake Kaniere, Treetop Walkway, Hokitika Gorge, Goldsborough • Situated close to town centre & beach • Registered bike hub. Plenty of space for Hokitika’s Kiwi Holiday Park and Motels guests to leave their van’s while cycling the trail – overnight if necessary Accommodation for all groups & budgets. Undercover BBQ area, free Wifi and free showers. Large communal area including two kitchen spaces 160 Davie Street, Hokitika | Free Phone: 0800 115 322 | Email: [email protected] | hokitikakiwiholidaypark.co.nz 24 NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Special Edition

in May 1866 – some reports say 1500. It’s hard to believe now, but this lagoon was once one of the busiest ports on the Coast for a short time, and was supported by 33 stores, a lot more pubs, and apparently, they started talking about building a university. But, by 1867 it was all over 8. Ross is the end of the road for the Trail and the area was virtually deserted. 9. Bruce in the stocks at the Ross Information & Heritage What remains on view now is Donovan’s Store, the oldest known Centre. There are a number of interesting historic relics here building on the Coast, and one of the last remaining buildings of the including a restored miner’s cottage and a pioneer’s cemetery. original old town. Built in the first months of the gold rush, it started 10. Ōkārito, Donovan’s Store building managed by DOC, is the life as the Club Hotel, and in 1890 was converted to a general store that oldest known building on the coast was run for 60 years by James and Eva Donovan. In the 1950s, a family 11. Ōkārito Lagoon is fringed by trees and the mountain vista called Robertson took over ownership until 1987 when they bequeathed behind is stunning. From sea to snow - wow! Photo: Tourism West Coast the property to the Crown; DOC now manages the building and site. We’ve stayed here a couple of times at the campground. There’s quite a range of accommodation options out here, and the lagoon, which is the major geographical feature of the area, is beautiful. The birds think so as well, possibly to do with the raupō (bulrushes) around the lagoon – Okārito means young raupō shoots, hence the name. There’s more than 2000 hectares of shallow open water and tidal flats here, which makes for the largest unmodified wetland in New Zealand. It’s a bird-watchers’ paradise with over 70 native species on record in the area. The shoreline has stands of huge kahikatea and rimu, with other conifers and tree species as well – a perfect bird paradise. Also unique to this area are the Rowi kiwi species, the rarest of the world’s five species of kiwi. You can take a local guided tour to see these little guys at night. 11 25NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Special Edition

WESTCOAST Glacier coast VOAFLLIECYES The next part of our journey 1 takes us through the amazing glacial mountain area, checking out Franz Josef village and surrounds, and Fox Glacier, and the adventures to be had there. Words Robyn Dallimore Photos Bruce Mountain 2 26 NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Special Edition

Franz Josef was originally named Kā Roimata o Hine Hukatere or ‘The tears of Hine Hukatere’ by local Māori. The Māori name for the Fox Glacier is Te Moeka o Tuawe. The ancestor Tuawe fell to his death while exploring the area, and the bed of the glacier became his final resting place (moeka) 3 4 black swans as they glide by and if you know your sounds perhaps W aking early in the morning and heading out for a walk you will pick out tūī, bellbird (korimako), grey warbler (riroriro) and, around the Ōkārito lagoon started our day off nicely – the in the right season, the rare white-faced heron (matuku), which have crisp cold air even got us going into a little jog before we been known to land on the lake at migration time. Around the lake are headed back for a good breakfast in the motorhome, enjoying 900-year-old kahikatea trees, and its shores are home to the Ōkārito the stunning back drop of Aoraki/Mount Cook as we ate. Kiwi Sanctuary, home to the rarest of our kiwi species – the rowi. Then it was time to head back to the main road and turn right – we were going south into glacier country. Our first stop was Lake Mapourika, We press on to Franz Josef village and find a park in the main street. 8km north of Franz Josef on the main road. Known for its salmon and We head to the West Coast Wildlife Centre, a big green building you brown trout fishing, the lake’s tranquil waters are perfect for kayaking, can’t miss just off the main road. There’s quite a bit going on here with or you can take a scenic cruise with one of the local companies who a busy café and a movie area where watchers can learn history, local operate there. stories and legends of the coast. This is the largest of the West Coast lakes and was formed as the Franz Josef Glacier retreated over 14,000 years ago; such lakes are called kettle holes. The intense dark water is common to lakes in this region. When rainwater – the lifeblood of the rain forests – seeps through the forest floor, it collects tannins as it flows into the waterways. The dark colour intensifies the reflective qualities, and on a clear day the reflective views of the snow-capped and bush-clad mountains in the still waters are breathtaking. There’s an easily accessible parking area, toilet and boat ramp here, so we pull in for a sit down and cup of tea, one of those nice things we can do with a motorhome. Sitting in silence, you’ll most likely hear the birds around you; there is quite a variety in this area, even the rare Australasian crested grebe (kāmana). At the least, you’ll enjoy the grey and mallard ducks and 1. Franz Joseph Glacier face back in 2012 2. This is one of the first parts of the walk where you get to view Franz Josef Glacier. The water is sparkling clean coming off the mountains, the opposite of the grey, glacial flour-filled water that comes from the glacier mouth to form the river 3. Easy to find off the Main Street, take the backstage tour and see kiwi eggs being incubated, or watch movies on the history and characters of the area 4. The rocks and boulders that come down through the glacier are one hazard, but the sides of the mountains where the glacier has disappeared from, pose another hazard with slips and slides happening at any time 5. Lake Mapourika is a classic example of a kettle lake; rainwater filters down through the forest and becomes dark, stained by 5 natural tannins 27NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Special Edition

WESTCOAST Glacier coast We move through to the glacier attraction, where you can learn about the local glaciers, how they’re made and their history of growth The river that flows and recession – this is a really informative display and great for kids from the Franz and adults alike. Josef Glacier face is the Waiho River, the Next we go through to the DOC Kiwi attraction. The local rowi and Fox River comes Haast tokoeka (Southern Brown Kiwi) are the most endangered kiwi in out of the larger the world and live in very restricted areas here on the Coast. The rowi Fox Glacier. River live in the Ōkārito Forest where we’d just come from, and the Haast water is coloured tokoeka live in a forest near Haast. A plan was hatched between DOC to a muddy grey and the BNZ called Save the Kiwi ‘BNZ Operation Nest Egg Trust’ – that by the fine rock involves taking eggs from their natural environment, bringing them flour dust that is back to this centre, which has a purpose-built hatchery environment, typical of glacial and hatching them into safe captivity. waters. The water is at a constant 2°C Once hatched, the chicks are introduced into a predator-free temperature year environment until they’re big enough to feed and fend for themselves, round, and because at which stage they’re returned to the wild. What makes this centre so the rivers often special is that you can see the rowi in a nocturnal walk-through area have chunks of ice or go behind the scenes and learn all about the hatching programme in them, they need and see a kiwi egg or baby kiwi up close. to always be treated with caution. It’s hard to believe at times, but this little village is home to only around 441 permanent residents, but it can bed-down up to 3000 tourists a 6 night in the summer high season if required. Franz Josef is a service town for locals and tourists alike, where you can stock up on food at the Four Square, fill the petrol tank, and drink and eat at a variety of good restaurants and cafés around the main and side streets. Accommodation is well catered for on every level; backpackers, campgrounds, hotels and B&Bs are available. Hiring a motorhome or campervan is always another alternative, naturally one I’d recommend although I acknowledge that this isn’t everyone’s cup of tea. Lots of our friends dream of lovely hotels, gorgeous meals out cooked by someone else, spa treatments and hot pools after their glacier walks and explorations – fair enough too, it is holiday time after all. All of these luxuries can be enjoyed in these alpine villages. The weather changes quickly here, as it does in all rainforests, and with rain coming down, the Glacier Hot Pools beckoned. This is a very classy place with a gorgeous main pool and hidden private pools in the bush, and which offers luxury spa and massage treatments, all surrounded by lush ferns and a rainforest bush environment. (unfortunately closed as part of Ngai Tahu Tourism whose tourism businesses are mothballed waiting on tourism recovery May 2020). As we had been on the road for a wee while, we elected to hire a private pool, but alas no extra massage treats for us! We had a lovely long soak sheltered under the roof, then luxuriated in the large bathroom-cum- dressing area. At night-time you can get candles and aromatherapy oils to stimulate the senses even more – but for us it was time to get ourselves fueled up both with diesel and food, and head down the road. 7 8 28 NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Special Edition

Next stop Fox Glacier, with our destination for that evening being Tourism to these glaciers began way back in 1897 when William Batson Gillespies Beach on the coast. opened the first tourist hotel at Franz Josef to meet growing demand. Miners, farmers and a logging industry supported the small village The best views and safest exploring opportunities of both glaciers are settlement; many of these people had stayed and settled after the gold to take one of the guided trips up the mountain by helicopter, enabling rush between 1866 and 1868. Getting to this area was challenging and you to land and explore with professional guides.! Or try a fly-over tour initially took weeks along the coastal trails from Greymouth. Initially a without ever touching down. track was created, and eventually a road of sorts opened up around 1911, enabling the first car to come to town. The road from Wanaka to Haast Bruce and I did the latter back in 2010 – we joined another couple in opened in 1960 and finally connected to the glacier towns in 1966, which the operator’s van in Fox Glacier village and were whisked to the local then made it possible to do a circuit around the east and west coasts of airport where our small aluminum ball awaited us. We shoehorned the South Island. ourselves into the small space and with belts tightened, headsets on and cameras at hand, headed off for the ride of a lifetime. Fox Glacier is another very picturesque alpine village with lush green rainforest, with bush and trees in the foreground and background, and Words can’t truly describe the views that unfolded below us. Snow snow-capped mountains lined up behind. It’s no wonder more than a covered sides of mountains that had looked smooth from a distance, million overseas tourists visit this area each year and to cap it off Fox soon took on a dangerous and treacherous reality as we skimmed low is an even bigger glacier than Franz Josef, by around 2km and varying. over the surface and were able to see into otherwise hidden sheer chasms This glacier has a bit of a bend in its flow between the mountain valleys, and crevices. We saw climbers on one mountain and on another, a which gives it a slightly slower melting rate. helicopter set down on one of the glaciers. We turned right onto the Lake Matheson road, and pulled in at the This trip took us from Fox up the coast to Franz Josef Glacier, DOC car park at Lake Matheson. This lake has a reputation as one skimmed up over the mountains and then back down the Fox Glacier of the most photographed in the country; the deep tannin-stained Valley. Words like awesome, incredible and mind blowing didn’t really waters are so silky smooth on a clear day you can hardly discern the cover it. To me the views and the total experience were well worth line between reality and reflection, with mountains, bush and Aoraki/ every cent, so I’d suggest putting some $175 or $200 in the budget per Mt Cook in the background. person and making it happen. DOC has created a boardwalk around the lake for an easy hour’s If our warm summers, low rainfall and therefore low snow fall winters walk, through rimu, kahikatea, koromiko and lancewoods, with ferns continue, who knows how long these glaciers will be accessible in the growing prolifically all around. The miniscule umbrella fern grows next future? to the whekī, the slimmest of the tree ferns, and moss carpets trees and rocks alike. The flying-buttress roots of kāmahi create tiny caverns from The drive to Fox Glacier is only about 23km, but the drive is up which tiny light blue fungi grow. I found myself taking photographs through steep mountains, often with native bush and trees on one side of tiny flowers and ferns as we walked around the lake. Sitting back at and steeply dropping ravines on the other. I would advise always driving the café when you’ve finished the walk is a must – the views looking in daylight and feeling fresh. The views are stunning for one, but it pays east to the mountains and Aoraki/Mt Cook are unbeatable on a clear to be sharp on these roads and very aware of overseas tourist drivers around you. It’s surprising how many visitors can be really challenged by windy steep roads when they’re more used to straight motorways and the modified hill roads of larger countries. 6. On a wet day the waterfalls stream down many of the sheer rock faces to drain into the Fox River below 7. These huge rock cliff faces show the scars of the glacier grinding over its surface over the centuries. Interesting that this area of rock originated from the north Queensland Australian coast over 350 million years ago (Gondwana land). Bruce went quite contemplative when I shared this little gem of information with him, connecting with his Aussie roots 8. Okarito is a small settlement on the coast 9. Guided tours by helicopter are the only way to hike on the glaciers nowadays, and explore their snow caves and chasms – but not recommended for the faint 9 hearted 29NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Special Edition

WESTCOAST Glacier coast These two glaciers are quite rare on the world glacial stage, as they descend low into temperate rainforest only 300m above sea level, giving an ease of access not usually attributable to these high mountain frozen river features. Both glaciers are located in the Westland Tai Poutini National Park, originally formed in 1960. This region was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage area in 1990. 10 day. You can obtain a locally produced pamphlet for the walk that will fellow motorhomer found out on their way in recently. Fortunately, a take you on a self-guided tour of the trees, birds and ferns so you can 4WD vehicle came through to pull them out. This road is not suitable learn and see specific examples. These are very worthwhile to have – or recommended for caravans or towing vehicles. you can get them from the Top 10 Holiday Park on the way down, or from the shop at the lake. The beach curves around the coast between two points, Otorokua and Kōhaihai (Gillespies) – there are old goldmine tailings here and the reedy Time to get to Gillespies Beach, another 20km or so down the road. trenches left by the gold dredges are lined with a swampy wilderness It’s partially gravel for the last half of it, and we are careful not to get of flax and manuka, with kahikatea and silver pine (manoao) towering too close to the road’s edge as we go through the last few kilometres. over the native scrub – it’s a fantastic environment for the birdlife. The edges are often running with water and can be a tyre trap, as a We got to the parking area in good time and set up for the evening, 11 sorting dinner plans, then going for a walk 30 NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Special Edition to the old miners’ cemetery we spotted on the way in. There were quite a few cars and smaller campervans pulling into the car park for the night, the air was settled, there were a few clouds in the sky, and over the next half hour most of us gathered on the beach to enjoy the sun going down on this remote West Coast beach – how much better could life be? Well, sometimes on the West Coast it could be better if you had one of those crazy bee hats with mesh all over your head – you need them for the sandflies and midges that can drive you nuts in these areas. We went back to the motorhome, really glad that we have fly screens on the windows, doors and air-vents! We were up early next morning, and out walking the beach, skimming stones over the waves – well trying to. Lots of the stones on the beach are smooth and flat with gleaming

schist flakes, and the beach itself has lots of coarse Other walks, both short and long, can be found along this foreshore. white pebbles with black sand streaking through An old miners’ road is cut into the hillside – in its day some 650 miners the white sand. Depending on recent storms and walked its length, but now only woolly sheep appear between scrub rains, there can be a lot of driftwood on the beach. and gorse bushes to scare you a little as you walk along. Further on, a tunnel along the track takes you from the silent wind-protected bush We saw some very woolly, perhaps wild sheep walkway through to the pounding Tasman Sea. running along the beach before heading into the gorse and scrub along the shoreline. Back to the RV for coffee and breakfast, then we headed up the Miners Tunnel track to seek out the remains of the gold dredge that ran in the area in the 1930 and 40s. As with many areas along this part of the coast, there was a gold rush here in the 1860s till the 1890s. A second run was taken at gold extraction in the 1930s with a fancy new dredge designed for the site. It wasn’t successful initially because the dredge wouldn’t work in the environment, so it was rebuilt with some Kiwi ingenuity into a more traditional 12 bucket dredge, and the remains of the dredge and some other equipment can be seen along the walkway. If we had kept going, we could have gone to the headland to see the seals there, whose ancestors were hunted by Australian sealing gangs who were dumped on the beach to work on the colony, sending back tens of thousands of pelts to their owners, though many of them starved to death in the tough environment. The local seal population is still recovering from that period today. 10. Fox Glacier is longer and bigger than Franz Josef, partially I’m told because of this bend in its flow down the mountain. You can clearly see the rocky moraine on the top of the glacier to the right, and the deep cuts in the rock face above it. To the top left of this photo you’ll see lines showing the height of the glacier at other times. This image was taken in 2010 11. A café and retail therapy sit by the car park at the entrance to the Lake Matheson boardwalk 12. The last 10kms into Gillespies Beach is a flat gravel road, lined with ferns and trees 13. Visitors gather along the waterfront to watch the sunset on Gillespie Beach 13 Mahitahi Lodge is your ideal Westland boutique bed and breakfast accommodation within easy reach of Fox Glacier. Wake up in the morning to the sound of birdsong before experiencing one of John’s delicious breakfasts. At the end of your busy day exploring relax in our upstairs lounge then enjoy the local produce and fine NZ wines at dinner. You are also welcome to join John on a walk or short tour when time permits where you will learn about the interesting history and local environment and maybe even view Mt Cook, New Zealand’s highest mountain. 4667 State Highway 6, Bruce Bay 7836, South Westland | Ph: +64 3 751 0095 | Freephone within NZ: 0800 751 009 | Email: [email protected] | www.mahitahilodge.co.nz 31NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Special Edition



Fox Glacier to Jackson Bay WESTCOAST TE-WPAOĀPSHRSIIPECSOESULIENOSANSMU From Gillespies Beach, through Haast and to the end of the sealed road at Jackson Bay - the final leg of our RV road trip from Karamea to Jackson Bay, on the West Coast of the South Island. Words Robyn Dallimore Photos Bruce Mountain W e’ve enjoyed a great trip so far, and after our morning walk We drive the 15km back to Fox Glacier village, turn right back onto on the ever-changing Gillespies Beach and exploration SH6 and head south, soon passing the starting point of the Copland of the remains of the gold dredge on the Miners Tunnel Pass Track. Track walk, it was time to pack up the RocknRobyn (our motorhome) and get going – destination Jackson Bay, the end This is where Charles Edward Douglas (1840-1916) is acknowledged of the road for the coastal traveler and for our road trip for these pages. in the region’s history. Douglas, who came to be known as Mr Explorer Douglas, was a solitary, fascinating man who dedicated around 40 It’s only about 180km to our destination, so for those on a tight time years of his life to exploring and surveying this challenging area of schedule it’s possible to do a quick blast down for a look around before the South Island, often with his companion dog with him. He wasn’t heading back to Haast then eastwards through the Gates of Haast and well acknowledged at the time for his work exploring and charting over into beautiful Central Otago. Not for us though – we plan on the majority of this south Westland region, but now the start of the taking all day and enjoying this Westland area. Copeland Track has a memorial to him, and there’s a mountain peak, a river, a pass and a glacier named after him. The Copeland Track is good for those more serious trampers who like a nice five to six-hour walk into a hut situation, and I hear there are hot water pools to be dug near the hut as well, but that’s not for us, so we keep going. Next is the Karangarua River Bridge, a tremendous example of a Public Works Department suspension bridge from the 1940s. With a span of 130 metres and big tall braced steel towers, it is allegedly the longest single-span suspension bridge still in use in New Zealand and is the statement bridge on our West Coast road trip for sure. 1. Copland Track, some challenging terrain, but 1 fantastic fresh environment 33NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Special Edition

WESTCOAST Fox Glacier to Jackson Bay 23 The roadside is lined with native bush, ferns, rimu and kahikatea trees, There are many local Māori legends in this area – one tells of Maui with mountains views to the left of us – it’s a truly beautiful drive. Our first landing in New Zealand from Hawaiki right here at Bruce Bay, next stop – Sandy Beach at Bruce Bay – is just 20km further on and is it’s said that he traversed up the South Island from here to then fish a very popular stop-and-refresh pullover spot for tourists driving this up the North Island. road. Beachcombing for polished white rocks and worn driftwood for sculptures are great attractions, and there’s a collection of rocks with So the saying that the South Island is the mainland could be true! messages and names written on them at the northern end of the beach Other interesting history in this area was the set-up of the first car park. Often over the years when we’ve come through here, there’s successful mail delivery service by airplane. It was started by Air been a multitude of stone and wood sculptures balancing along the Travel (NZ) Ltd in December 1934 between Hokitika and Haast, with road foreshore – they can last for months at times, until a big stormy stopovers along the way including landing on Bruce Bay beach. This sea rocks in and washes right over the road. air service revolutionised not only the post but also travel around the Westland area. Usually it would take up to four days for the journey from Bruce Bay has a short-lived gold history similar to many spots along Hokitika down to Haast, but with the plane service, this was reduced the coast and today only a handful of people live permanently around to two hours. Up to two passengers could be taken initially as well as the bay, enjoying the abundant bird life, hunting in the hills or fishing the mail, and the scenic flight business that is a backbone of Franz and the waters for big fish, and seeking out the tiny and highly prized Fox Glacier tourism started from this small company as well. The last whitebait in the rivers along the coastline. Antarctic penguins nest to flight for Air Travel (NZ) Ltd was in 1947. the south of the bay in the native bush, while the endangered Hector We get back on the road as it leaves the coast to head through mountain Dolphins live in the waters off this coast. valleys and windy hills towards our next stop just over 20km south, 2. Charles Douglas, 19th century explorer and 4 surveyor, with his dog Betsey Jane, photographed at Karangarua around the turn of the century. Photo: Alexander Turnbull Library Wellington 3. Bruce Bay is a must-stop spot, I have collected some mighty white rocks for my garden from here - just one or two at a time... 4. Karangarua River bridge, just one of the many one-way bridge spans on this amazing drive south 5. The Rock (aka my Brucie) loves this bay’s name, this sign is a recent addition in the last year or so. The pile of stones behind him and shown on top of the sign are covered in messages from tourists who have stopped here 6. View from Knight Point lookout, wild and wonderful west coast with the hills rising up out of the ocean 7. Ship Creek boardwalk goes from the sand dunes to the coastal forests 8. Tauperikaka or Ship Creek, well worth stopping for a break, take in the history from the information boards, stretch your legs on one of the short walks 34 NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Special Edition

56 the Salmon Farm café near the Paringa River. Paringa was the end of gets back to the Tasman Sea, where we stop at the top of Knight Point the road south until the 1950s, when it was extended to connect Haast lookout. It’s a toilet stop with a large car park (no overnight camping), with the rest of the West Coast. information boards and great views up and down the coast and is always worth a stop and walk around regardless of the weather. Down the road we go, passing Lake Paringa on the right – another birdwatcher’s paradise with Australasian crested grebes, scaups 7 and shovelers joining the other ducks and swans on the lake. In the Tauperikaka - Ship Creek surrounding forest you can spot mātātā (fern birds), kākā, kākāriki, Yes, there is a shipwreck history behind the kārearea (bush falcon) and kererū. There are also mouse-sized bats that name. Back in 1871 a large piece of an unusual nest in hollow tree trunks, something to look out for at night if you camp wood-constructed ship was found at the mouth or stay nearby. Salmon fishing has a six-month season from October of the Tauperikaka Creek. No ship of its sort was 1 to March 31, but you can fish for brown trout all year around. These known to have been in New Zealand waters. A lakes are magic for a bit of kayaking or swimming as well. few years later more pieces were found, then again in 1920 more were found. It wasn’t until This area is the start of what is known as the ‘beech gap’, a botanical 1973 that the remaining wreckage was located anomaly where beech tree podocarp rainforest has regenerated more by divers, off the southwestern coast of Victoria, than 18,000 years after the glaciers of this area disappeared. It’s interesting Australia. It transpires the 1855 Scottish-built how many varietals of beech tree there are, and how each one can live clipper Schomberg was the finest and fastest in a different ecological environment – one of the reasons why there ship in the world, with a daredevil captain, James are bush and trees around all the waterways, and the vegetation and ‘Bully’ Forbes, who boasted he would set a record trees change species as the mountains rise higher and higher. sailing from England to Australia. That was until he hit a part of Australia named Shipwreck Coast, Further on, we pass Lake Moeraki on the left – another dark but clear and the ship was lost. Luckily the 300 passengers water lake —then on the next corner to the right we pass the entrance to got ashore safely. The mighty tides delivered the walkway to Monro Beach, home to the Fiordland crested penguin pieces of the ship to our shores for decades after. (tawaki) in spring, and seals year-round. The 4.7km return walk takes 35NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Special Edition about an hour-and-a-half at an easy pace through the coastal forest. Not for us this time though, so we keep going up the windy road till it 8

WESTCOAST Fox Glacier to Jackson Bay Then it’s back in the motorhome and down the coastal road to Ship 9 Creek (Tauperikaka), a DOC-managed area with information boards, Onto our destination for the evening – the small Jackson Bay by toilets and two easy walk options for travelers to explore. The 800m Jackson Head. We’ve stopped and enjoyed so many different spots on return Kahikatea Swamp Forest walk has an easy track that loops this leg of the journey that what should’ve been a two-hour trip, has through a dense swamp forest, and has great examples of our tallest taken us over six hours, so finding our camp site for the evening and tree, the kahikatea or white pine. The second walk – Dune Lake walk getting set up is the priority now. – starts out on a well-constructed boardwalk along the sand dunes, We’re in time for sunset and sitting outside on our chairs it feels like then changes to a short-graded path that winds up and down through we’re alone in the world – not another person in sight, no vehicles can dense coastal forest, taking in a platform that looks over the lake and be seen or heard. It’s peaceful and serene on this visit – good for the down the coast to Jackson Head. soul to sit back and absorb its energy. In the morning we take to the walkway through to Ocean Beach We’re only about 18km from Haast now, so with one last stop in mind, along the Wharekai – Te Kou walk. It’s a short, easy walk through the we hit the road again until we get to what must be the most popular bush, and I felt like we’re at the end of the world sitting on the rocks shop in Westland – Curly Tree Whitebait – which is 10km north of looking out to the Tasman Sea. Haast. Bruce just has to stop here if the season is right. There are a couple of different walks around the area, short and long options, and if you have your fishing rod on-board, as we do in the RV, Tony or Moana Kerr will greet you and in season will whip up a then a bit of time surfcasting can get some great results with blue cod, fresh whitebait fritter and send you away with a package of the tiny groper and terakihi plentiful in these waters. If you have a boat, then delicacies to take home. They say it’s the best whitebait in the country, tuna could be on the menu as well. and we wouldn’t argue with that. On the foreshore of the harbour is the renowned Craypot Café, Tony is great fun – his great-grandparents established one of the originally the Timaru pie cart that was later moved early huts here back in the ‘60s and five generations have enjoyed the to Cromwell before being relocated to Jackson Bay family tradition since. many years ago. If you can be there for lunch, I hear the seafood is amazing – crayfish, whitebait and fresh Back on the road, and very soon we find ourselves crossing the very fish served in a delightfully casual environment, with long one-lane Haast road bridge. At 737 metres long, Wikipedia states it’s a view that can’t be beaten, unsure of winter hours the longest single lane bridge in New Zealand, and our seventh longest though. But yeah, those sand-fly midgies can be really overall. I bet it has the best view from a bridge in New Zealand – the vexing – bug-spray is as vital as drinking water down river and mountain on one side, the sparkling white sands and Tasman here. We didn’t manage to be there during open hours, Sea pounding into the beach on the other, and on the riverbanks, white but we did have our morning tea on their outdoor seats baiters in every guise imaginable. and can recommend the views. We stop in at Haast and stock the diesel tank, then head straight This is the end of our journey down the West Coast. down the road for Jackson Bay. Haast is the hub for State Highway From this point on, the narrow strips of flat land give Six – from here you can go north or south, or head inland up and over way to vertical mountains jutting out of the sea, and the the Gates of Haast, traversing one of the best drives in New Zealand Fiordland area with its well-known fiords and glacier- to Wanaka and civilization. cut valleys take over. We stop briefly at the small settlement of Hannah’s Clearing 20km The Coast needs to be absorbed in detail. It’s only by south of Haast. A few years back, we had the most amazing experience stopping at all the DOC parks and memorials that you doing the jet boat tour up the Waiatoto River, highly recommended get even the smallest clue about its history. trip. (Not opening until Alert Level 1, then they will operate the 11am tour time. Will return to Summer tour hours from 26 December.) We keep going south, past the Haast Beach holiday park on the beach, and the Hapuka Estuary Walk in Jackson Bay, another DOC project with a great boardwalk around the estuary. The boardwalk goes about 1km around a short loop, it’s easily achievable, and bird watchers will love the tūī, korimako (bellbird) and kererū that can be seen and heard here. 10 36 NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Special Edition

It’s very easy to just drive by, taking in only the views through your 11 window as you accelerate away, concentrating on your end destination and not your current environment. It’s easy to miss what you actually and recorded 38 plant families with 315 varietals of those plants. He came to be part of – the amazing rainforest and beaches that wait for judged Westland’s forest to be “a unique production of nature, found your footsteps of exploration. in no other land – a priceless possession”. I love reading and tend to get caught up in books and Internet sites 9. Our jet boat ride up the Waiototo was fantastic fun while seeking out nuggets of information and history. I’m constantly 10. Whitebaiters line the banks of every available river and stream in amazed at the tremendous challenges and achievements of the settlers season, trying to capture the elusive ‘wriggilus evadus’ or whitebait of the 1800s, and the conditions they endured. The South Westland 11. Monro Beach: a great walk to get to the beach, and if you’re region is very challenging with up to 7m of rainfall each year, which lucky, seals and penguins to be seen makes for a very wet landscape. Setting up farms by clearing bush land would have been awful. (I wonder what bug-spray they used back then?) What amazes me also is how tourism has been a priority for West Coasters all this time. We have it easy now with roads and planes to take us in and out of anywhere we want quickly, without a two or three- week bullock or horse trip. I’ll finish with some slightly paraphrased quotes from the previously mentioned explorer, Charles Douglas, taken from my favourite reference book (not everything of interest is on the internet), the Readers Digest Guide to New Zealand. Douglas had these comments about this Westland region that stuck with me: “It isn’t by trotting out of a hotel and back again the same day that nature’s true wonders can be seen – they don’t disclose themselves to day-trippers. It’s a place to linger.” Douglas also recognised that Westland’s future depended on its preservation from exploitation: “The mines they need to develop are the silver and gold in the pockets of tourists – no more roads for diggers but tracks to waterfalls and glaciers.” I was also fascinated with the thoughts of Leonard Cockayne, one of New Zealand’s greatest botanists and a founder of modern science in this country. 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CANTERBURY TO TASMAN Christchurch to Motueka A–TALBRRWUAOTAVAYIETSDLWTLLHEEAADSSTNSW’TAY From Christchurch to Motueka via Lewis Pass and the Shenandoah Story + Photos Allan Dick 1 38 NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Special Edition

T he Kaikōura earthquake struck at two minutes past midnight 2 on November 14, 2016. The damage was immense but there was no loss of life, because this region – apart from Kaikōura itself 1. Much of the Lewis Pass and Shenandoah highways are like this – is very sparsely populated. However, New Zealand’s transport – through heavy native forest infrastructure was thrown into chaos with both the railway line 2. Frog Rock in the Weka Pass — if you look you can see a similarity and SH1 damaged to such an extent that wise people scratched their 3. Historic pub at Hurunui suffered earthquake damage but has heads and wondered if we needed to look at alternative routes or methods since been restored of transport – alternatives such as coastal shipping. The first priority was to see if there was any way that road traffic, at least, could flow again via ‘the inland route’ – Lewis Pass, Springs Junction, the Shenandoah, through Murchison, turning off at Kawatiri, through St Arnaud and down the Wairau Valley. Apart from the greatly increased distance, this route – while extraordinarily scenic passing through the heart of the Southern Alps – is narrow, narrower again in places, twisting, tortuous and much more suitable for a leisurely drive than for fast trips to catch ferries or deliver perishable goods. But where there is a will there is a way, and for the best part of the next two years this route played a vital role in keeping the entire South Island operating. It wasn’t easy. Traffic volumes went through the roof. The road hadn’t been built for 50-tonne juggernauts rumbling over it day and night, and an army of roadworkers was kept busy patching broken tarseal, easing corners and widening bridges. Life changed dramatically for the people living in the small towns and villages along the way. Some never understood that trucks were that big, nor that there were so many people living on the planet. Pop-up cafés and coffee shops appeared in Springs Junction as well as in paddocks and rest areas along the way – providing sustenance for the travelling hordes. It’s unlikely that anyone who used this route during those two years really took much notice of the countryside they were travelling through. It was a drive that required maximum concentration and lower average speeds. 3 39NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Special Edition

CANTERBURY TO TASMAN Christchurch to Motueka 4 and pearls are still favoured by mature farmers’ However, it ended as quickly as it began and with the reopening of wives. This is a region steeped in Canterbury the Kaikōura Coast route, life returned to more or less normal for the traditions – and the creation of a medium-sized people along the way. wine industry seems to have further ingrained Travelling from Christchurch to Motueka, using the Lewis Pass route, those traditions. the Shenandoah, Murchison and the Motueka Valley has always been one of my favourite drives, and with traffic flows back to sanity level again, The weather couldn’t make up its mind if it was I decided on a leisurely drive and an opportunity to soak up the sights. raining or not as we stopped in Amberley to load Our unsettled spring weather continued on the eve of departure from up with food and beverages for the three nights home base in Ōamaru, but I never bothered to check road conditions; ahead. We were hoping for good weather as we had I done so, I might have delayed the start as, later that day, I learnt planned on using DOC camps along the way – of that the Lewis Pass had been closed by snow between Maruia Springs which there are plenty. and Springs Junction! My route leaves SH1 at Waipara north of Christchurch and heads After paying homage to Captain Charles Upham inland through a continuation of pretty-typical North Canterbury VC and bar, whose bronze statue graces the lawn farming country where farmers wear their shirt collars up, and twinsets in front of the local council offices in Amberley, we ambled on up SH1 to turn left onto SH7 in Waipara – once the home to a mysterious sect who were well-armed for some reason. On SH7, traffic was surprisingly heavy. So many large truck and trailer units were coming against us from west to east, I wondered briefly if the Kaikōura Coast had closed again. But this rush of traffic, while heavy, was brief and was probably the backlog of traffic that had been held up at Springs Junction while road crews cleared the snow. Driving conditions weren’t all that pleasant with intermittent rain and skies that threatened more. From Waipara the road pretty much follows the Weka Pass railway line which is the remnant of a main line that once ran to Culverden and on to Waiau. The original plan had been to extend this line north through the mountains to link up Blenheim and Nelson, but it was decided that was too difficult and the Kaikōura Coast line was constructed instead. Enthusiasts saved the bit of line from Waipara to Waikari and run trains frequently on this, passing famous ‘Frog Rock’ on the way. 4. Weather-worn clay cliffs near Hanmer turn-off 5. Heavy snow had closed the road a day before 6. An old railway carriage serves as a sleep-out in the Boyle settlement 7. Spectacular alpine scenery — road, mountains and snow 5 40 NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Special Edition

Waikari is an odd little village, built on a slope, that doubtless is busy 6 when the trains are running, but it’s also the turn-off to places you may 7 never have heard of – Hawarden, (pronounced Harden), Pyramid Valley and Medbury. If you have the time, it’s an interesting enough side trip. We didn’t, so pressed on past the gorgeous old Hurunui pub that has reopened after suffering earthquake damage, past the Balmoral Forest with its camping ground, and into Culverden – a rural service town and convenient stopping place for travellers, with a clutch of cafés and bakeries. There’s a feel of the fifties about Culverden. Shortly follows the turn-off to Rotherham and Waiau with its famous Red Post marker – this is ‘Rutherford Country’. The Rutherfords were early settlers and had a significant impact on the region as well as business interests in Christchurch. Duncan Rutherford, who died about a decade ago, was an eccentric who divided his time between his massive car collections in Nelson and his farm, flying back and forth in his light aircraft. From here there is a gradual change of scenery as SH7 dives into the mountains. I don’t use satnav much, if at all, but a perusal of an old-fashioned map of the upper half of the South Island gives you a very clear indication of where you are heading. Strike a line from Christchurch across to Greymouth and north of that are virtually only three roads – SH1 up the east coast, SH6 up the West Coast and ‘our road’ (SH7 and ‘SH65’ Springs Junction. Shenandoah road) up through the middle. This is vast, difficult and remote country by any standards. And when you consider that the entire South Island has a population of about one million people, and that most of them live south of that line from Christchurch to Greymouth, you begin to understand just how sparse the population is where you are heading. SPECIAL COLLECTORS’ EDITIONS ONLY $7.50 AVAILIBLE TO ORDER ONLINE TODAY Scan the QR or go to the website below Order your copies online www.RnRpublishing.co.nz or P: 06 306 6041 to order direct 41NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Special Edition

CANTERBURY TO TASMAN Christchurch to Motueka 8 Māori used this route to get to the greenstone on the West Coast, mountains proper. but Pākehā didn’t use it – even in the height of the various gold rushes This is a sensational drive. The road is crowded in by heavy native – and it wasn’t until 1937 that the Lewis Pass became a proper road. forest and ferns. It’s narrow, twisting and mountainous. Of course we had to make the detour into Hanmer (not Hamner) We turn off at ‘the Boyle’ – the start of the St James Walkway where where the weather had decided it was going to snow if it could – the result was that messy stuff called sleet. there is an outdoor education centre and a small collection of holiday cribs. The Navigator’s mother and stepfather once owned one of these It was school holidays, and although it was now getting late in the houses and we take a nostalgic look in. afternoon, you couldn’t find a park outside the famous thermal pools. We pass the lodge at Maruia Springs and the forest continues. In the Hanmer has got a touch of ‘the Queenstowns’ but a little more grounded. middle of a long clearing you find ‘Engineers Camp’, once operated by The Navigator applied pressure to shop for half an hour then take the Ministry of Works to keep the roads open, but now it’s Downers. a restorative plunge in the pools, but I objected saying we needed to Workers were putting away snow ploughs after a day spent clearing press on and find one of the DOC camps before it got too dark. Truth the road further on. is, there is nothing I like about sitting in a hot pool for 30 minutes or more. I get bored, tired and end up pink and wrinkled. It was getting towards evening, and surprisingly the weather had Back onto the main road and we pressed on westwards into the improved inasmuch as it was no longer raining, but the skies were patchy so we started looking for a campsite. We’d already passed three 9 10 42 NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Special Edition

11 or four, but came across Deer Flat and decided it looked like home 12 for the night. gangs had been busy clearing the snow off the road the previous day. A pretty standard small DOC camp – toilet and half-a-dozen gravelled Snow may be cold and wet as it turns into slush, but there is no car parks set in native forest and with access to a river. Charge was $8 per person per night which we are always happy enough to pay disputing it can double the scenic value. even though (because of the remoteness) we knew there’d be no early At Springs Junction there was no sign of the life there had been the morning visit from the local ranger to check if we had paid. last time I was through. The pop-up cafés have closed, or been moved, As we set up camp, one of the locals paid us a visit – a small and after the reopening of SH1 through Kaikōura. charming robin who showed absolutely no fear at all. 8. Spectacular Maruia Falls were created by the 1929 Murchison earthquake This was a beautiful location, with a towering snow-covered mountain 9. The Navigator ponders an early morning dip at Deer Flat DOC camp visible through the bush, but man it was cold with a capital ‘C’. Best 10. Friendly robin at Deer Creek DOC camp quality eiderdown sleeping bags and TWO blankets! It clouded over 11. Yorkshireman Lee has found his new home in Murchison — baking pies and during the night and while there was no frost there was a cold and bread and doing a roaring trade clinging dew. 12. French themed bakery in Murchison is also into the home-made pie business 13. Step into Hodgson’s Store in Murchison and you’re stepping back in time Camp coffee (Nestlés Coffee and Milk) was welcomed in the morning even if it was made with chattering teeth. On the road again early and soon it became obvious where the road 13 43NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Special Edition

CANTERBURY TO TASMAN Christchurch to Motueka 14 Springs Junction is a scattered town with a service station and a the bed of the Maruia River by several metres, creating a new waterfall. restaurant/motel and some houses. It’s also where SH7 turns left to We depart SH65 and join SH6 at a point where there’s a left hand turn continue the Lewis Pass route, while turning right becomes SH65 and heads through the Shenandoah to Murchison and beyond. to Westport. We are skirting around the eastern edge of the Kahurangi National Park and there are some no-exit roads that lead into the dark Here, the mountains take a bit of a rest and you are in farmland with mountains. If we had more time, we would have explored. dairy cows being the most common inhabitants. It’s attractive country with lush, vibrant green pastures bordered by dark and brooding Up until the change of highway we had been following the Maruia native forest. River, but the point where the road goes left to Westport is also where the Maruia joins the Buller which has been coming from an easterly But, it doesn’t last long before you are back into the mountains. direction. Soon we are in Murchison. We stop to have a look where the 1929 Murchison earthquake raised I like Murchison. 15 44 NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Special Edition

16 14. One of the two pubs in Murchison — traditional in every way 15. The old stables in Murchison — a wonderful historic building now with another use 16. Donna Thurlow from ‘Somebody’s Treasure’ in Murchison where the Navigator has bought many collectibles! 17. A bizarre sight at Kawatiri Junction — a railway platform! 17 WHERE YOUR DESTINATION IS OUR PLEASURE We offer… • Wine tours • Airport Transfers • Cycle transport to any of the mountain bike trails and along • Local Taxi shuttle service the “Great Taste trail” throughout the Tasman region • “Personalised group transport options • Small personalised tours to to anywhere you want to go” Golden Bay Phone Chrissy and Gary on 021 08767992 [email protected] | www.destinationtasman.co.nz 45NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Special Edition

CANTERBURY TO TASMAN Christchurch to Motueka 18 It’s an attractive little town set in the middle of this vast and remote And along the road a French-themed café also boasts ‘homemade pies’. bit of New Zealand. Like many New Zealanders, I admit to being a pie enthusiast. But the shop I want to see is Hodgson’s General Store. It’s not on quite It’s had its difficult times. In 1914 much of the town was destroyed the same level as the Bainham Store in Golden Bay, but it’s certainly a by fire. But the Big One came in 1929 when a large earthquake struck step or two back in time. at 10.17am. The epicentre was 65 kilometres north of Murchison and The Oxnam family bought the store in 1902 and it remains in family resulted in 17 deaths, two of them in a coalmine but the majority in ownership today. Barbara Oxnam ran the place until her death earlier landslides that followed the long shaking. this year at 88 years of age. The family now have two local staff running the place. There were more than 10,000 landslides and the damage was The façade tells you this is something special, and inside is a total great – roads and rivers were blocked and 38 new lakes were created. mix of goods enough to get you through life. Mixed among the goods One of the largest landslides occurred up the Mātakitaki Valley where 18 on the painted shelves that line the walls are tins from years ago, so million cubic metres of material was hurled off the face of a mountain. you get a picture of a shop that is part museum as well. I meet up with the Navigator, laden down with her purchases from In a previous life BA (Before Allan), the Navigator had owned the piece the second-hand shop. Last time we were here, two months earlier, of land where the slip landed – appropriately enough, the farm was called she bought half-a-dozen large Victorian breakfast plates and I bought ‘The Slip’ – so we took a short nostalgic drive to see it. some rare books. I spoke to several locals in the town about the two years the Kaikōura Today, there is no easily visible sign of this massive displacement of Coast road was closed and Murchison underwent huge changes. soil and rock. “It wasn’t all good,” one said. “The town was overwhelmed. We didn’t have the infrastructure, and while there was initial celebration at the In Murchison we had brunch at Rivers Café – the town is spoiled for increased level of business, it quickly became a huge strain. Not only choice with at least three excellent cafés and a quite traditional ‘tearooms’ on the business owners and staff, but also on ordinary locals who felt – and we both chose homemade lamb-and-mint pies. They are very, very they had ‘lost’ their town.” good and loaded with meat. Oil is to be found in several places on the West Coast, and around Murchison is one of them, but there was never enough for an ‘industry’. The bright green exterior of what appears to have been an old garage and Instead, Murchison found its place in mining, logging, farming and, service station gave no clue to what was inside – it’s funky and fascinating. for some years now, in tourism – first as a stop-over, but more recently adventure tourism. After eating, the Navigator goes shopping in ‘Somebody’s Treasure’, While the boom times of the Kaikōura Coast closure are over, a large second-hand shop, while I go walkabout. Murchison is still busier today than it was before. A large motel is under construction and that’s a clear vote for the future. One of the most fascinating old buildings in the town is the former We’re back on the road and our destination is Motueka – a place I ‘Commercial Stables’ and it was apparently empty and unused for many years. These days, it’s a second-hand shop of sorts, but there’s no further exploration as it’s closed. As good as our pies were, I wish we had waited; alongside the museum (in the former post office) I find Lee, a native of Yorkshire, selling homemade pies, bread and cake from a caravan that’s almost hidden. A line up of locals buying lunch seems to attest to the quality of his tucker – “it’s all hand made,” he explained. 46 NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Special Edition

could live as an alternative to Ōamaru. This was a romantic time for the region. Each year, at harvest time, There are subtle changes in the geography now. There are still Motueka and the surrounding area became a magnet for thousands of workers – many, students on holiday, and others, just looking for a mountains and heavy native bush and we are still following the Buller lifestyle change. River, but there’s also more farmland. 19 We p ass t he O wen R iver hotel and car r y on t hroug h Gowan Bridge where, until comparatively recently, there was a shop that specialised in fishing gear, or so I have been told. Soon we are at Kawatiri Junction – remarkable for its old railway platform. This was part of the line that was built in stages from Nelson, heading to Inangahua with the aim of connecting up with the West Coast lines. But Kawatiri was as close as Nelsonians ever got to the dream of being connected by rail to the main railway system. This is also where SH63 branches off to St Arnaud and Lake Rotoiti and on down the Wairau Valley to Blenheim – the route followed by traffic over those two years of the closure of the Kaikōura Coast. After Kawatiri the changes in the geography quicken pace – there are vast tracts of pine forest – and as we reach our turn-off down the Motueka Valley at the old Kohatu Hotel, we are pretty much into civilisation again. The Kohatu Hotel has survived over the years and has become a significant stopping spot in recent years after the addition of a café. After leaving SH6 at Kohatu (it goes on to Wakefield) we are on the last leg of our journey to Motueka. I love the Motueka Valley. It’s a slow drive, with the little town of Tapawera on the way and many lifestyle blocks and small farms. This was once ‘tobacco country’ and you can still see many of the tobacco sheds where the large tobacco leaves were hung up to dry. 18. There are several side roads with interesting bridges over the Motueka River off the Motueka Valley Road 19. Humorous carving of a bull has been at the roadside up the Motueka Valley for many years 20. Ngātīmoti church and war memorial are both worth the short side trip out of the Motueka Valley 20 47NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Special Edition

CANTERBURY TO TASMAN Christchurch to Motueka 21 When I was on Radio Pacific I made the Motueka tobacco-picking for DOC in the greater region. season a subject one Saturday morning, and it sparked huge interest We decide to head towards Picton and ask Stu’ for some guidance – many romances began over the season, ending in many marriages. about DOC camps along the way. Stu’ tells of three and, making mental Most of the workers lived in basic accommodation on the tobacco notes, off we go. farms and buses were arranged to get them into Motueka for Friday nights. This was the era of six o’clock closing and the few pubs in the The sun is out, it’s fine and warm. Our expectations are high. town did a roaring trade. We skirt Nelson and head into rain. It’s too wet to stop at our first suggested campsite just out of Rai Valley, ditto Pelorus Bridge where Tobacco plants are handsome things with big leaves, but picking the rain is even more solid. them was a very sticky and dirty job. Despite that, many of the callers We press on to Havelock in the hope of finding better weather once clear to the radio programme loved their time there. of the hills. And we do – we now only have the wipers on intermittent! We follow Queen Charlotte Drive feeling increasingly disheartened But tobacco shared the region with fruit (mainly apples) as well as because we are sure we are going to get wet. hops. After tobacco, apples became more important than ever and Then we see the sign we are looking for – Aussie Bay – another small in recent years an experiment with Jax apples has turned out badly – DOC campsite with toilet, running water and space for about five or nobody liked them – and the orchards have now been ripped out and six vehicles. replaced by more hops. We are in the place alone and have our choice of the best spot. By now the rain has begun a light drizzle, but I spy a secluded parking Hops are everywhere – and still spreading. spot under a canopy of trees where the ground is dry! By the time we Apparently, Motueka and Nelson hops are the best in the world park and get out, the rain has stopped completely. (challenged by Hawke’s Bay though, I understand) and the demand for We’re in heaven – the trees at the end of our parking spot have been them has been escalated by the boom in the craft beer market. cut back so we have a view across the Grove Arm to Anakiwa. There seems to be no end of the spread of hop farms. I go off and deposit my $16 fee and return to settle in and have a glass Overall, there’s a calm, ordered, almost colonial feel about the Motueka of wine and cook a meal. Tonight we are having pasta with carbonara Valley with well-established properties. sauce and a couple of cheeky little reds. We turned off briefly at Ngātīmoti just to visit the pretty church and Dinner over, dishes washed, we settle down in our chairs to finish impressive war memorial at the top of the hill before returning to the off the day with a ‘camp coffee’, listen to the sound of the water below main road, and soon we were in Motueka. us and watch the twinkle of the lights over at Anakiwa. The town has a population of under 8,000, compared to Ōamaru’s We both agree – a perfect spot at the end of a sensational drive. 11,000, but Motueka is much, much busier – the town centre is bigger and it’s thriving. 21. The start of the Talley’s food empire – the remains of Peter Talley’s father’s There is something about Motueka that keeps people there. The Talley fishing boat, the Janie Seddon. It’s been left to rust in peace off the Motueka family remain based here despite controlling a vast food empire, and waterfront as a tribute to the company the Goodman brothers (Goodman, Fielder Wattie) also maintained their own base in Motueka long after their business interests flourished and spread further afield. In Motueka we have a look around, but don’t have time to visit Riwaka or Kaiteriteri. Instead we catch up with brother-in-law Stu’ who works 48 NZTODAY RV Lifestyle South Island Road Trips Special Edition