2 Battle Circular Walks Look Inside

David Clarke has asserted his right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1998 to be identified as the author of this work. Text, maps and photographs are Copyright ©David Clarke 26 September 2014. All rights reserved. No reproduction th permitted without the prior consent of the author. 1066 Harold's Way, History Walks or David Clarke do not accept any responsibility for any injuries or losses which may occur on 1066 Battle Circular Walks. Walkers are advised to ensure that their personal insurance cover is adequate and to carry their own basic first aid kit. Even though this is a comparatively short walk, it is advisable to take regular stops for refreshment if only to admire the views. At the time of writing, all routes follow public rights of way or permitted paths. However, diversions can be made at any time and permissions withdrawn – for which I cannot be held responsible – and care should be taken to abide by any local restrictions subsequent to the writing of this walk. As regards public transport, changes to timetables can be made at any time and it is important to check that the services and schedules are still current before your walk. Ensure that you and your group are properly prepared for the walk, be aware of hazards and walk safe along the roads and lanes encountered on this walk. In view of the hilly terrain boots are recommended in all but dry weather and sun protection and a hat for hot days and waterproofs for that hint of rain. This walk allows walkers to explore the area around Battle taking in King Harold’s camp on Caldbec Hill and Duke William’s camp on Telham Hill and the Countryside Code will help preserve the walk for others. • Guard against all risk of fire • Keep dogs under control • Use gates and stiles to cross walls and fences and fasten all gates • Protect wildlife, plants and trees • Take litter home or dispose of it appropriately • Take special care when walking on and crossing roads • Do not play music loudly or create excessive noise • Do not stray from the designated path Some helpful websites before you start: ▪ Stagecoach www.stagecoachbus.com/plan-a-journey ▪ Traveline www.travelinesoutheast.org.uk ▪ Weather www.news.bbc.co.uk/weather ▪ WhatPub www.whatpub.com Information about the pubs, beers, contact details and opening hours are shown on the CAMRA WhatPub web site at: www.whatpub.com Front Cover: Battle Abbey

1066 Battle Circular Walks around Caldbec Hill and Telham Hill Incorporating ‘Pub Walks in 1066 Country’ The Kings Head, The Bull, The Senlac, The Chequers and The Abbey The Saxon Times CALDBEC HILL 13TH OCTOBER 1066 Match Preview Although the Normans have not By our Sports Reporter travelled well, they have travelled Think of Harold tomorrow, with hope and have the advantage Saturday, 14th October 1066. of being able to call upon their An early kick-off is anticipated and Cavalry in attack. extra time to be played, Saxons The Saxon team, nicknamed ‘The against the Normans and their two Warriors’, believe that the strength captains, Harold II and William. of the crowd will be a telling point These are the top two teams in this and in a press release issued season’s league with the Danes, earlier today, urged all Saxons to Norwegians and Northumbrians come and support them in battle. A already relegated. close contest is expected for this The Saxon defence has been in final premier league game of the good form and their proven power season and the Crown will be attack has seen them to two awarded to the victor. previous victories. The result will soon be known and it will give us some idea as to what will happen next season.

TWO BATTLE CIRCULAR WALKS Not too far and not too long. An opportunity to walk the countryside that surrounds Battle with some magnificent views along the way and a share in the history of 1066. These two walks form a figure of eight walk designed to allow a little recovery time from the sometimes steep terrain around Battle. They also form the ideal basis for two Pub Walks in 1066 Country with Walk 1 finishing at either The Kings Head or The Bull and Walk 2 completed with a pint at either The Senlac (handy for the station), The Chequers or The Abbey. Catch the train or bus home and it would be the perfect end for a couple of perfect walks. Turning its back on Battle, King Harold’s camp at Caldbec Hill now offers peaceful views looking north east but William’s camp at Telham Hill offers distant, perhaps wistful views of the Senlac ridge and the battle ground. The morning walk is longer but should still only take a couple of hours. For the most part the walk is easy going with a few stiles although it can be muddy in places and there is one short sharp climb. It is an opportunity to visit the site of the Legend of Malfosse before the climb to Caldbec Hill and back to Battle for lunch. The second, slightly shorter afternoon walk is undulating and in places it is a vigorous walk that climbs up along through Fore Wood, an RSPB nature reserve, to Telham Hill, the site of William’s Camp, and down towards the start of the battle field at Lower Lake where there was once just a narrow track between marsh and the land fell away towards the Red Lake (Senlac). The final climb is up the hill towards the ridge that William’s army attacked and past the now ubiquitous ‘Channel 4’ mini-roundabout although it is quite possible that The Chequers will prove to be the end of this section. The idea of the figure of eight route is to break up the day, allow lunch and, bearing in mind it is October, to consider the weather. You can still feel satisfied to have finished Malfosse and Caldbec Hill, in front of a warm fire, listening to the pouring rain, snow or hail outside. You do not have to walk them in one go, in one day or even in order - you can please yourself.

Useful Information Maps OS Explorer: 124 Rail Battle Station Bus Stagecoach Service 304/5, Renown 95 Parking Battle Pay and Display Battle Abbey (EH) Pay (time limited) Accommodation Battle, Hastings and St Leonards on Sea Refreshments Battle Abbey (EH) Battle – pubs, inns, restaurants and cafes Connecting Paths 1066 Harold’s Way, 1066 Bodiam to Battle, 1066 Country Walk & 1066 William’s Way-Hasting to Battle This guide contains all the step by step instructions necessary to complete the walk successfully although you should always take the correct OS Maps with you in case of difficulty. Additionally, this walk has also been added to the Ordnance Survey Walking Routes and for a complete mapping experience, download the OS Map App and follow the route on your phone. Let Battle Commence. On 28 September 1066, with a favourable wind, William landed unopposed at Pevensey and within a few days had made camp at Hastings, a few miles along the coast. Hastings was already partly under the control of the Abbey of Fécamp in Normandy and welcomed William with open arms. After William’s victory, Hastings was saved the fate of neighbouring Bexhill and most of the surrounding countryside that had remained staunchly Saxon. William now needed to move away from Hastings if he was to take the Crown of England but there were difficulties. Sussex was always an inaccessible place. It was heavily wooded (the vast Forest of Anderida), the terrain was difficult with high ridges running east to west and the great tidal estuaries isolating Hastings. The ridges had always been seen as safer tracks, even before the Romans, and they supplemented the key Roman roads that ran north to south. The area around Telham, Senlac and Caldbec Hills was an important and strategic crossroads in 1066. It was vital that William gained control of this key position if he was to break out of his beachhead at Hastings and march on London.

Harold, however, needed to contain William in Hastings behind the barrier of the Ridge, the Appledore Estuary, the Andreasweald and the Sea, natural defences he could use to his advantage. The call went out for ‘all Saxon fighting men to meet at the ‘Hoar Apple Tree’ on Caldbec Hill’, a local landmark that marked the crossroads on the Ridge and was well known to Saxons throughout Wessex. Caldbec Hill would be a natural rendezvous for the Saxon Army, close to Senlac Hill if that was to be chosen as the battle site. Harold’s father, Earl Godwin, owned much of Sussex and it passed to Harold on his death. His land would help provide the extra but untrained men that Harold needed to boost his Army with the added motivation that they would be fighting for their homes. The devastation and retribution that the Saxons would suffer, if they lost, was almost forgotten. These two circular walks take a look at the important events of the Battle of Hastings. The Battle of Hastings, 14th October, 1066. The details are well known. Harold's army was already in formation on the ridge at Senlac Hill. They stood 10 or 12 ranks deep. They had the high ground protected by a steep slope to the north and by streams and hollows on the flank. William’s army had camped around Telham Hill. Early in the morning, they moved north towards Senlac but the bottom of the ridge was marshy and there was only a narrow strip of firm land in the centre through which William could send his troops to line up at the foot of the hill. The battle began. First, the Norman archers moved forward and fired but the English shield wall held firm and the Normans suffered losses when fire was returned. The Norman infantry were next but they were cut down in hand to hand fighting by the fearsome two-handed battle axes of the Saxons. The cavalry, attacking uphill, were ineffective. Keep the line. Keep the line. Keep the line. Continued at Walk 1 Page 10

Battle Town The village of Battle did not exist before the battle. The Battle of Senlac or the Battle of Red Lake later became known as the Battle of Hastings. Today Caldbec Hill, Harold’s rendezvous point is crowned by a windmill, east of the A2100, on the road to Whatlington. The town is still dominated by the massive Abbey gatehouse and there are many old buildings, dating back from the 13th century. St Mary’s was restored in 1869 but dates in part from the 14th and 15th centuries. Battle Historical Society’s Museum, in High Street is also worth a visit. Battle Circular Walk 1: To Malfosse and Caldbec Hill After the Battle of Hastings was won by William there was one more infamous incident to the day. Harold’s second army finally arrived a little late for Battle and, reinforced by those fleeing the carnage, set up a defensive line behind a ditch, on the edge of the Forest of the Andreasweald that still covered much of Sussex, Surrey and Kent. That ditch proved to be the Norman’s undoing and as they charged they fell into the ditch and suffered a rare defeat. The walk, with a little imagination, follows those fleeing soldiers to Malfosse, that evil ditch, before returning along the line of the ancient trackway that was Harold’s army’s route from the north towards Caldbec Hill and the site of Harold’s camp before the Battle of Hastings 1066. Path profile This first walk of the two follows a route to the west and north of Battle. It is a rural walk across fields and meadows, woods and green lanes. There

are a few short sections on quiet lanes and tracks and a little on Battle roads leaving and returning to town. Care should be taken on the short walk along the A2100 although there is a reasonable verge to use. There is one steepish descent and of course a steepish ascent to climb making the walk a little more vigorous then a gentle stroll and there are stiles to negotiate. The Walk Distance: 5.85 miles Time: 2½ hours OS Map: 124 OS App Map: History Walks Book 2: 1066 Battle Circulars Caldbec Hill Face the magnificent Battle Abbey Gatehouse, built in the late 14th century as a defence against the threat of an anticipated French invasion, and turn right by the Pilgrims Rest Tearooms, rebuilt in 1420 as a guesthouse for pilgrims. Pass the red telephone box and head downhill, past the Battle Abbey Car Park on the left, towards the metal gate in front where this walk turns right to follow what I would call Back Lane, past the cricket

ground and at the end, where the path bears left, turn right along the wishfully named Western Avenue that is just wide enough in places to allow two people to pass. Exit onto High Street by Battle Museum of Local History, well worth a visit, and turn left and at the traffic island by the Fire Station, turn right along the A2100. Cross the road and turn first left up Chain Lane, signposted Amicus Horizon, and follow the road around, over the traffic humps until the road becomes a muddy track and turn right (be warned, there are no waymarks). Follow the drive down and when the drive reaches Kelklands bear left down to the stile and a marvellous vista opens out in front towards Beech Farm. Continues at Page 15

The Pub Guide – Walk 1 The Olde King’s Head, Battle 37 Mount Street, Battle, East Sussex. TN330EG Tel: 07936 466003/01424 772317 Lunchtime, on the 1066 Harold’s Way, Battle Anniversary Circular Walk and what a find for half-time, between the morning and afternoon walks. Walker and dog friendly, it is a characterful, old fashioned, unpretentious and authentic pub said to be the oldest in Battle with an outside seating area in a small courtyard at the rear. When we first visited in 2015, the pub had just changed hands, they were still finding their feet but made the 1066 Battle Circular Walkers very welcome although I had been in to The King’s Head earlier in the week to make sure that they did lunchtime food and that they would have space for a party of 10 walkers. Although the walk was running a little late, I was able to send a fast group on ahead to reassure the staff that we would all be there for lunch sooner rather than later. The King’s Head is away from the ‘madding crowds’ of re-enactment visitors, a quiet and cosy pub just right for a little rest and recuperation. An open fire, a couple of easy chairs and rooms divided by the almost circular bar and a dining area to one side. Groups use the King’s Head for its beer and atmosphere. Battle 41 Club finish walks there and a group of runners left as I entered undoing all the good from their run. Harvey’s Best always on offer with Longman American Pale Ale. Other visits have seen Deuchar’s on hand pump and a well-conditioned and well-stood ‘Black Sheep’ from a barrel on the bar. Cider was Stowford Press. The smiling and welcoming staff had set a table for 10 for the group and the excellent ‘walkers food’ was good value. All in all, the opinion of the History Walk group was that The King’s Head was a perfect lunchtime stop for a walk – one to return to for any Battle Walk. The Bull, Battle 27 High Street, Battle, East Sussex TN33 0EA Tel: 01424 775171 www.thebullinnbattle.co.uk My first impressions of this 17th century coaching inn, some ten years ago were not good. Standing proud on Battle High Street with a couple of steps up to the front door, the bar gave me the wrong impression with fluorescent stickers pinned to the shelves offering cheap this and that to drink and eat.

Those first impressions do last and I never returned until the 950 Anniversary celebrations th of the Battle of Hastings in 2016 and the triumphant finish of Peter Wheeler’s Yomp 1066 all the way from Stamford Bridge. The High Sheriff of East Sussex, Mr Michael Foster DL was there to hand out specially brewed pints of Norman and Saxon beer brewed by the FILO Brewing Company, Hastings and what a transformation for The Bull. Friendly, a cosy bar and a magnificent inglenook hearth, home to a wood burner, full of light from big windows during the day and at night the stone walls create atmospheric shadows. That hearth has iron firebacks dating from 1692 but I feel that the inglenook is a more modern reincarnation but still effective. On the other side of the same wall, in the back room, is another inglenook which may be more authentic but with no fire. Old Dairy Top Bull, Morland’s Original and Harvey’s Best were on offer and sitting there in the front bar, nursing my pint, the shelves behind the bar sparkled with reflected light from all the bottles and glasses, crammed on mismatched shelves. For those colder nights, there is mulled cider. A curious sign announced ‘Dog Beer £3.00’ but not for human consumption – it’s more of a light stew and I’m assured that dogs love it. The Bull is a good pub to finish a walk. Battle Circular Walk 2: To Duke William’s Camp, Telham Hill This walk travels to William’s camp before the Battle of Hastings, on Telham Hill, and then follows a route towards the battle site, climbing up to Senlac Hill and the centre of the fiercest fighting. Telham Hill dominates the area south of Battle and the campfires and noise would have been seen and heard by Harold’s men on Caldbec Hill. It would have taken a little time for William’s soldiers and cavalry to march the one mile down to their battle stations below the ridge, one mile to get themselves ready for battle. Harold’s army, by comparison, were already camped on the ridge, ready and waiting. There are views of the battle ground but only from a distance as any Battle Anniversary celebrations requires entry to English Heritage’s Battle Abbey.

Walk 2 Path profile This second walk skirts the grounds of Battle Abbey to the west and turns south towards Telham Hill and returns to Battle Abbey by way of Senlac Hill. It is mainly a rural walk across fields and meadows, woods and green lanes. The climb up to Telham Hill is one of moderate effort and there are two short sections to walk on Forewood Lane where care is needed. The return to Battle Abbey, is more a gentle stroll with a few stiles to negotiate.

The Walk Distance: 5 miles Time: 2½ hours OS Map: 124 OS App Map: History Walks Book 2: 1066 Battle Circulars Telham Hill Start facing Battle Gatehouse and turn right by the Pilgrims Rest Tearooms, rebuilt in 1420 as a guesthouse for pilgrims. Pass the red telephone box and head downhill past the Battle Abbey Car Park on the left and towards the metal gate in front to follow the waymark for 1066 Country Walk towards Pevensey. We will follow the 1066 Country Walk for the first half of this short circular. Through the side gate on the left and into George Meadow and Upper Stumblets. These fields were once part of the Battle Abbey Estate (‘Stumblets’ may relate to the large forest, south of Ashdown Forest, called ‘Stumbegh’ that would have extended south towards Battle – Wealden Iron Research Group). Continued at page 25

A few final words This Battle Abbey Circular could be seen as Walk 10c of 1066 Harold’s Way, published in 2013 and was always promised as such. 1066 Harold’s Way traces the probable route of King Harold II and his army on their march from London to Caldbec Hill – 100 miles Westminster Abbey to Battle Abbey. There is still dispute as to the fate of King Harold’s body after the Battle of Hastings. One of the legends is that his body was taken by his mother, Lady Gytha to the family home at Bosham, a journey of some 85 miles across all of Sussex from East to West. As for Duke William it will be that start of his march to the crown of England. And those legends that surround the events of the Battle of Hastings will continue to provide the opportunity for argument – ‘Are they legend, history, story or fact, for we can only speculate about what happened on that battlefield and there is debate even about the site of the battle. What happened after the Battle of Hastings is explored in more detail in The Saxon Times and traces the events of 1066 as taken from Norman accounts written at the time and from later 12th century histories that were written from stories handed down over the generations. It is a complex web of money and power but just to throw something else into the battle, there is also a legend that King Harold escaped……..!

About the Author David lives in St Leonards on Sea, East Sussex, and walks, talks and writes about walking, local history and all things 1066. He is a member of the Outdoor Writers and Photographers Guild and considers that his membership of CAMRA, The Inn Sign Society, The Ramblers and the Long Distance Walkers Association to be a perfect match for walking. He is the author and creator of 1066 Harold’s Way, a 100mile long distance walk inspired by King Harold’s epic march to the Battle of Hastings, 1066. Long Distance Walks 1. 1066 Harold’s Way 2. Three Castles and an Ironmaster’s House Books 1. The Saxon Times History Walks around 1066 Country 1. A Green St Leonards on Sea Walk 2. 1066 Battle Circular Walks 3. 1066 Bodiam Castle to Battle Abbey via Vinehall 4. Hastings to Rye and Rye to Hastings 5. Secret St Leonards Walking Trail 6. Pub Walks in Hastings and St Leonards 7. 1066 William’s Way, Hastings to Battle 8. Rock a Nore to De La Warr 9. Pub Walks in 1066 Country 10. Walks around Rye 11. A Walk around Winchelsea 12. More Walks around Rye

History Walks No.2 This Battle Circular Anniversary Walk is the final walk of 1066 Harold’s Way, a 100mile long distance walk from Westminster Abbey to Battle Abbey. The walk links with 1066 Harold’s Way, 1066 Country Walk, 1066 William’s Way Hastings to Battle and with 1066 Harold’s Way, The Final Journey which is to be published in 2018. This booklet provides a little of the background to the Battle of Hastings 1066 and the route covers some of the major sites and events surrounding the battle. 1066 Battle Circular Walks incorporates ‘Pub Walks in 1066 Country’ & ‘Bus and Train Walks’ ‘1066 Battle Circular Walks’ is published by History Walks, Marine Court, St Leonards on Sea www.1066haroldsway.co.uk and printed by Instant Print www.instantprint.co.uk £3.00 March 2015, Revised February 2018

For more information about this book and other walks in the series of ‘Short Walks in 1066 Country’, visit History Walks Books and Talks: www.1066haroldsway.co.uk History Walks books are available by mail order from History Walks and from the following stockists: Hastings • Hastings Tourist Information, Muriel Matters House • Old Hastings Preservation Society, History House, Courthouse Street • Hastings Fishermen's Museum, Rock-a-Nore, St Leonards on Sea • The Bookkeeper, 1A Kings Road • Studio 4 Frames, Marine Court Rye • Rye Heritage Centre • Adams of Rye, 8 High Street Battle • British Design British Made, High Street • AHA Stationers, Mount Street Bexhill • De La Warr Pavillion • Bexhill Museum