History Walks Pub Guide 1066HW - Look Inside

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The long-distance walk inspired by King Harold's epic journey to the Battle of Hastings 1066 that changed England forever. There can be no more emotive walk Now includes Battle Abbey to Hastings Castle For a true ‘Capital to Coast Walk’. Devised and Written by David Clarke 2

Beer Notes to Capital to Coast The Walking Guide to 1066 Harold’s Way By David Clarke 3

David Clarke has asserted his right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1998 to be identified as the author of this work. Text, maps and photographs are Copyright © David Clarke 7th October 2016. All rights reserved. No reproduction permitted without the prior consent of the author. At the time of writing, all routes follow public rights of way or permitted paths. However, diversions can be made at any time and permissions withdrawn – for which I cannot be held responsible – and care should be taken to abide by any local restrictions after the writing of this walk. About public transport, changes to timetables can be made at any time and it is important to check that the service and schedules before your walk. Similarly, landlords leave, pubs close and reopen and their character can change for better or worse for which I cannot take any responsibility. When walking 1066 Harold’s Way you will need good walking shoes suitable for uneven, possibly muddy paths and sun protection and a hat for hot days and waterproofs for that hint of rain. 1066 Harold’s Way Capital to Coast allows walkers to explore the South-East of England, and to help preserve the walk for others, remember to: • Keep dogs under control • Protect wildlife, plants and trees • Take litter home or dispose of it appropriately • Take special care when walking by and crossing roads • Do not play music loudly or create excessive noise History Walks or David Clarke do not accept any responsibility for any injuries or losses which may occur on 1066 Harold’s Way Capital to Coast. Walkers are advised to ensure that their personal insurance cover is adequate and are advised to carry their own basic first aid kit. The guidebook for Walking 1066 Harold’s Way Capital to Coast contains all the walking notes required to complete the walk from Westminster Abbey to Battle Abbey and on to Hastings Castle, together with history notes and background information. It should always be walked using the appropriate ordnance survey maps. Some helpful websites before you start: ▪ Stagecoach www.stagecoachbus.com/plan-a-journey ▪ Traveline www.travelinesoutheast.org.uk ▪ Weather Forecast www.news.bbc.co.uk/weather ▪ WhatPub www.whatpub.com Cover: The Castle Inn, Bodiam, East Sussex 4

Page Index 11 23 Westminster Abbey to Greenwich 31 Greenwich 35 Greenwich to Lesnes Abbey 39 Lesnes Abbey to Dartford 44 Dartford to Istead Rise 47 Istead Rise to Rochester 51 Rochester 56 Rochester to Maidstone 60 Maidstone to Staplehurst 63 Staplehurst to Sissinghurst 70 Sissinghurst to Bodiam Castle 72 Bodiam Castle to Battle Abbey 80 Battle Battle Abbey to Hastings Castle 5

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This guide is what walkers have been waiting for since 1066 Harold’s Way was first published in 2013 - the definitive guide to all those watering holes along the 100 miles from Westminster Abbey to Battle Abbey East Sussex that now includes the final ten miles to Hastings Castle. Old pubs, new pubs, some that would close and others that would rise from the ashes of the previous landlord. Pubs hidden away down country lanes that would provide just the spot to stop for a little rest and recuperation as any soldier would want on a long march to battle. Of course, if these inns and pubs had been open 950 years ago who knows what might have happened. Certainly, the march may have taken a little longer and those battle-hardened reinforcements would have been in position to defeat Duke William and the Normans. Fired up on ‘Spitfire’, ‘Bombardier’ or ‘Harvey’s Best’ they could have taken on the world – or fallen asleep on Caldbec Hill. There are many Shepherds Neame pubs along 1066 Harold’s Way, for which I make no excuse, as I enjoy their beer and after all, they are Britain’s oldest brewer. Similarly, Harvey’s is an old Sussex Brewery and their best is light, bitter and hoppy and just the right kind of pint at the end of a long day’s walk. In the Low Weald, you can treat yourself to a pint of local cider, the strength of which is not that obvious – until you stand up, definitely better at the end of the walk rather than in the middle with a few miles left to walk. There is always the proviso that pubs change with a new landlord, a pub refurbished or even becoming an ‘upmarket eatery’. A few have closed since this walk was first walked but by walking 1066 Harold’s Way you can help to keep these pubs and inns open for walkers in the future. These Beer Notes offer inviting glimpses into some wonderful pubs, often with open fires, beams, settles, beer spotted tables and a friendly welcome - especially with your muddy boots off. All the pubs are accessible by bus or train, if you can bear to leave the car at home and there lies the nub of this 1066 Harold’s Way Capital to Coast – you do have to walk to get to the pubs! For me, it is the walk that takes pride of place and that welcome pub and that even more welcome pint are the rewards for all the effort and there have been some fine rewards on all my walks. The opportunity for a pint in The Mayflower at Rotherhithe, The Ship at Southfleet, The Lord Raglan at Staplehurst, The Bull at Sissinghurst (now the Milkhouse and 7

upmarket) and The Swan at Sandhurst would not have happened without 1066 Harold’s Way and the services of the train or Country Bus. Those mentioned above are just a few of the pubs that have gallons of charm that enhance the spirit as well as the body. These Notes are a personal insight into the pubs and inns along 1066 Harold’s Way Capital to Coast and may help you to plan your walk to take advantage of some of the historic and atmospheric pubs and inns during or at the end of your day’s walk. There are many other pubs within easy reach of 1066 Harold’s Way Capital to Coast so this, inevitably, is only a selection and very much a personal choice, dictated by location and warmth of welcome, with no payment taken or requested for inclusion in this guide. The pubs are listed in order from the start at Westminster Abbey to the finish at Battle, or Hastings Castle if you want to walk to the sea, and every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of this guide. Pubs do change and there will be times when you must make your own judgement. If there are material changes, please let me know at History Walks – [email protected]. These pubs are all part of the economy of the area, community pubs that deserve and need your custom to ensure that they survive for the walkers of the future, as do the buses and local businesses. Your help will be greatly appreciated to maintain all these services although sadly, it is too late for the Railway Tavern at Staplehurst. In some of the London pubs and bars, you may stand out a little from all the men and women in ‘suits’ but you will have a different story to talk about. Some may be a short walk from 1066 Harold’s Way and for others we may arrive a little too early in the day but they can still be a line in your little black, beer stained notebook with a note to return. There are, of course, some special favourites for 1066 Harold’s Way walkers which you should be able to spot from the remarks but all will add a little extra something to 1066 Harold’s Way Capital to Coast. I have noted where food and accommodation are available, correct at the time of writing, although as always, it is advisable to check beforehand as pubs can change. 8

If the walk is not muddy and full walking gear not necessary, entry should not be a problem, if it is, boots off and just check with the landlord or landlady first. As the walk progresses into Kent and East Sussex the pubs become further apart but they make it up with some real gems. Ironically, the further south you walk, the closer you get to ‘hop country’ and around Bodiam were the Guinness hopfields that supplied Park Royal. Sadly, Guinness had sold them all off by the 1970’s. However, hops are being re- introduced and near Sandhurst, are the hops that go into the making of Sandhurst beer that can be bought in bottles from Johnson’s Supermarket in the village. There is always a pub at the end of the walk to celebrate quietly, or with lots of chat amongst friends, about the day’s highlights and achievements, after all, we do not have a battle to fight. Some walks have a good lunchtime pub although any thoughts of more than a pint are tempered by the fact that more miles must be walked to the end of the section. All sections are public transport friendly although south of Staplehurst you will need to catch a bus back to the station. 1066 Harold’s Way This is no ordinary Pub Walk that you can ‘do’ in a day. This pub walk is 100 miles long with a little bit added at the end to get you to Hastings Castle and the seaside. But you do not have to do ‘it’ all in one go. 1066 Harold’s Way is broken down into ten easy chunks, almost all with a pub at the end to discuss your awesome adventure over a pint. The little bit added on at the end is ‘1066 William’s Way’, from Battle to Hastings that completes a 1066 ‘Coast to Coast’ and links to ‘Pub Walks in Hastings and St Leonards’. For each walking section in this guide, there are maps and a summary of the route for an overview of the walk but it is important that this Pub Guide should be read in conjunction with the guidebook for 1066 Harold’s Way and to use the appropriate Ordnance Survey Maps. Each section is roughly ten miles long and, as with any walk, you will need to be aware of weather conditions and dress appropriately for the time of year. It is always handy to download, or have printed off, timetables for bus and train connections, especially as some rural services do not run to the same regular intervals as your city bus or train. 9

1066 The 14th October 1066 is one of the most emotive dates in English history and Harold’s march to the Battle of Hastings is part of our heritage. Imagine 1066, the Battle of Hastings and King Harold’s epic journey to his date with destiny. Imagine being part of King Harold’s army, did it rain, was it dry? Three days of marching, the nights were drawing in, the noise, the fear and a battle to face – a camp at Rochester, a camp at Bodiam and a final climb to Caldbec Hill. 1066 Harold’s Way is a 100mile long distance walk, accessible by public transport that traces the probable route of King Harold’s march from Westminster Abbey to Battle. It is based on the Roman road network still being used in 1066, from London to Rochester on Watling Street and then south through Maidstone, Staplehurst and Bodiam. A clear route through the daunting Forest of the Andreasweald past castles and battle sites with rivers, streams and valleys to cross, forests to forge and hills to climb and Roman roads, green lanes and ancient footpaths to walk. 1066 Harold’s Way would become for me, a walk of discovery and exploration, visiting parts of the South-East that I had never seen before. 10

Westminster Abbey to Greenwich (9 miles) 1066 Harold’s Way Capital to Coast starts at Westminster Abbey and follows the Thames Path past Queenhithe, London’s dock even before William built the Tower. After Tower Bridge, the once great London Docks stretched for miles along both sides of the river, St Katherine’s Dock, Limehouse Basin, Russia Dock, Greenland Dock and now, dominating the skyline is Canary Wharf. Across the river is Execution Dock where pirates, thieves and mutineers were hanged, Limehouse and the opium dens of the old Chinatown. We pass wharves that launched the ships of Captain Cook, the Pilgrim Fathers, Nelson and Drake and there are famous pubs to while away the hours. 11

Westminster Arms (1) Too close to the start 9 & 10 Storey Gate, Westminster, SW1P 3AT Tel: 020 7222 8520 Being so close to the Houses of Parliament it has a division bell to call MPs to vote. Admittedly it has character but it suffers from being on the tourist trail and with nine miles to walk to Greenwich it is a bit early for a pint of Shepherd Neame’s fine ales Distance from Path ¼ mile (close to the West Entrance of the Abbey) Food Yes Accommodation: No www.westminsterarms.co.uk Davy’s Champagne Charlies (2) Not just Champagne 17 The Arches, Villiers Street, London. WC2N 6NG Tel: 020 7930 7737 Champagne Charlies lies in the arches below Charing Cross and it conjures up a 1920’s decadence, top hat and tails and the car outside. Monocles and flappers and just off to dance the night away. Before Charing Cross Station was built it was the site of Hungerford Market and below the market were Hungerford Stairs and Warren’s Blacking Factory, where a 12 year old Charles Dickens was sent to work, was a “crazy, tumbledown house with rotten floors and a staircase.” Now below the station are the Arches, dark bricked railway arches, a series of arches running parallel with The Strand all the way down to the river. Walking up from the river, turn left at the last Arch and Champagne Charlie’s is just on the left. What lies downstairs, what kind of den is this, where am I taking you and why CC? The pubs outside are heaving but down the stairs it is a little oasis of calm, a noisy calm but not pushy and you can grab a table and talk about the walk. I like this place, I always have. There have been changes over the years but the changes have been subtle. There are ‘suits’, both men and women, alcoves and wooden benches for discreet discussions. Food and after work ‘do’s’, quiz nights and party nights and private dining rooms. 12

Plates of little hot sausages and platters of cheese and meat, all to savour at the table, bring the conversation alive or is it the bottles of Davey’s claret that litter the top – how long have they been talking? Business discussed over flutes of champagne, the ice bucket stands on the table, assignations and missed trains – there’s no mobile signal here, who is to know. “Must rush, the 6.10 is due”- it’s only upstairs and there’s an escalator too. But there amongst the suits is a jumper, walking trousers and shoes, day sacks on the floor – just one or two pints before the train home – good walk wasn’t it. 1066 can breathe again, walkers are welcome in this subterranean den. Served in tankards, the pints of hand pumped Old Wallop (née Courage Directors) slip down a treat, you don’t need a sparkler to bring this beer to life. Something new are the Meantime Brewery pumps, London Pale Ale and Lager served under pressure but I’ll leave the Meantime for Greenwich at the end of the walk. They do breakfast too, served from 8am. Start the walk with Davy’s English breakfast for £10.00 – there are other options too before the short walk to the start at Westminster Abbey. They are closed on Sundays though and only open from 5 pm on Saturdays so be warned, best during the week when they are open all day. Oh, and a final note, the house champagne is £49.95 a bottle! Distance from Path 2 minutes Food Yes Accommodation: No Web: www.davy.co.uk/champagnecharlies Gordon’s Wine Bar (3) It’s all in the name 47 Villiers Street, London, WC2N 6NE Tel: 0207 930 1408 On the corner of Villiers Street and The Watergate, down the steps and it feels like a subterranean cave, nooks and crannies abound, small tables hidden away and a queue for cheese and the ‘jamón’. ‘No beer, no spirits’ said the sign - ‘We are a wine bar’. It’s busy with tourists or workers, probably both. Jam packed is closer to the truth, inside and out, and it’s 5 o’clock on a Friday night in the middle of November. It is worth a look in if only for the atmosphere but perhaps not after a walk and you’re thirsty and you want somewhere to sit down. Best to try it at lunch time when the sun is shining and the walk has just begun – just for a taste of an older London and it is worth the experience. Walk a little way past those outside tables and chairs to find The Watergate itself, now marooned inside the Embankment Gardens. 13

Distance from path: On 1066 Harold’s Way Food: Yes Accommodation: No Web: www.gordonswinebar.com The Pepys Riverside Bar & Dining (4) Gastro! Stew Lane, off Upper Thames Street, EC4V 3PT Tel: 020 7489 1871 Once called the Samuel Pepys, this Stew Lane contemporary ‘gastro’ bar has eclectic views over the Thames, is just a minute away from Harold’s Way and serves Sharp's Doom Bar and a guest. I only mention the Pepys because of the views as there are far more authentic hostelries further downstream. The website suggests that it is the ‘perfect location for corporate entertaining and office events’. Distance from path: 1 minute Food: Yes Accommodation: No Web: www.thepepys.co.uk Into Southwark, long the place to start or end a journey, a place for pilgrims, traders and travellers and the writers, Chaucer and Dickens. The George Inn is now Southwark’s only surviving coaching inn rebuilt in 1676 and worth a visit, either now or later. It is just a short walk down Borough High Street, past Southwark Cathedral and Borough Market (open Thursday to Saturday, a delight for ‘foodies’ and with a couple of good pubs itself) – so much to keep you from 1066 Harold’s Way. Have we time for visit? 6½ miles to Greenwich - perhaps another day. The George Inn (5) It suffers from being unique 75-77 Borough High Street, Southwark SE1 1NH Tel: 020 407 2056. A cold evening and the courtyard outside the galleried George is beginning to fill up with Friday drinkers let loose from the office. Inside it is busy and soon to get busier. Once, there were similar medieval inns in the alleyways that lined the road from London Bridge and a haven for travellers, thieves and gambling. First recorded around 1543, this ‘new’ building dates from 1667 after being destroyed by fire and rebuilt exactly to the same plan as before allowing 21st century drinkers to experience that touch of history as Dickens did before. The first room is the best of all the small rooms and bars that lie end on end stretching long and thin from the main road. Set underneath the galleried first floor is a room that was most likely two rooms at one time, each with its own fireplace. 14

Black walls, black beams, lacquered with years of paint, black fireplaces, window seats, inglenooks and a wood burner that provides that hint of wood smoke for that true medieval experience. The Parliament Clock remains from 1797 and there are still one or two dark wood tables and benches. In 1976, there were wooden floorboards, original and left bare, but these have disappeared and the room looks higher than I remember 40 years ago. This is the bar in which to sit and drink that timeless pint before venturing on to Greenwich although after a visit to The George, the walk may end early with a trip to Borough Market to round off the day. Greenwich can wait for another time. Beers are Greene King with a special George Ale on offer at 4% In the other bars, there are beams and pillars, stools and ledges and further along rooms with wood panelling, tables and chairs that have more a sense of Dickens than 1667. Sit outside and in the early evening, the lights of The Shard reflect some future City of Dreams. It is a tourist pub but one that is not a pastiche and one that should be visited at least once but is experienced at its best in the Parliament Bar. Distance from path ¼ mile Food: Yes Accommodation: No Web: www.nationaltrust.org.uk/george-inn The Horniman at Hays Wharf (6) Suits and tourists Unit 26 Hays Galleria, London SE1 2HD Tel: 020 7407 1991 The Horniman is a neo-Victorian celebration of the old warehouse, wrought iron balustrades, a mezzanine floor, pillars that are more of a salute to a 21st century London of tourists and suits, a gleaming bar and comfortable seating and a clamour of places to visit or deals to be done. On the Thames Path to Greenwich, there are more historic pubs to visit but if you have time to spare it is fine, for the saving grace of The Horniman is the cask beer and on offer on a Monday lunchtime were: Fuller’s Double Summer & London Pride, ERA Purity, Sharp’s Doom, Nicholson’s Pale Ale, Tim Taylor’s Landlord, on a range of nine handpumps. Distance from path: On 1066 Harold’s Way Food: Yes Accommodation: No Web: www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk/alelibrary 15

Walk along Bermondsey Wall East, past the site of Edward III’s manor house to Cherry Garden Pier and The Angel PH. There has been a pub on this site since the 15thcentury when it was established by the monks of Bermondsey Priory. The oldest part overlooks the Thames and Execution Dock. Judge Jeffries watched the condemned hang across the river and it is believed that Turner gained the inspiration for the ‘Fighting Temeraire’ from the balcony. It is said that the view from The Angel inspired Turner to paint the Fighting Temeraire as he watched the warship pass by on its final journey to the breaker’s yard – no doubt it was from the inside of the pub rather than the outside with a quart of ale to help the imagination. Wapping is on the opposite bank and Wapping New Stairs, with the water swirling around the beach, is the most likely site of Execution Dock. Pirates, thieves and mutineers were hanged and left for three tides to wash over them. You could drink and watch the hanging of the notorious pirate Captain Kidd on May 23rd, 1701, safe across the river. Such events were seen as public holidays but the fun ended with the last hanging in 1830. Look out for a warehouse with the letter E on one wall, it stands on the site of Execution Dock. It is ironic that the very first River Police Station for the Marine Police was built close to Wapping New Stairs, in 1798. The Angel (7) Immerse yourself in history – but no cask beer 101 Bermondsey Wall East, SE16 4NB Tel: 020 7394 3214 16

A Sam Smith's house, formerly Courage, of small richly painted and panelled rooms, nooks and crannies, cast iron fireplaces and historic photographs that decorate the walls. There is little of the ostentatious about this understated pub that has sought to preserve its heritage, it does not need it! There are three panelled rooms at the front; the Public Bar, Saloon Bar and a Private Bar that have a unique Victorian symmetry. That Private Bar allowed both men and women to drink together, for a small surcharge, and no doubt kept the clientele apart from the locals who worked on the quayside. The small room at the back, that was once the kitchen, now plays host to four tables and chairs with one window that overlooks the river and another that frames up stream looking towards Tower Bridge and St Pauls with the admonition 'WINDOW - KEEP CLOSED AT HIGH TIDE'. The photographs mostly relate to pre-second world war scenes of terraced houses streets and wharves and the impact of the black and white creates a sense of life in an older Rotherhithe, adding to the historical interest. Upstairs is a lounge, carpeted and wallpapered with comfy chairs and settees to look out over the Thames, towards Execution Dock and Wapping Old Steps. Behind are prints from Wylie and Whistler, who completed his own etching of Rotherhithe in 1860, from this balcony looking similarly toward the City. No doubt they and Turner drank downstairs in the Private Bar if they ever entered the doors of The Angel. There is a choice of a wide range of Sam's most popular offerings but not one on handpump! Food is pub food from sandwiches to pies, burgers and mains that include liver and onions which would be perhaps a little heavy for a summer’s walk. On my Monday, it had the feel of a good local's pub but I am assured, by one of those locals, that weekends are busy with walkers. My half (there was still some miles to walk before Greenwich) of Old Brewery bitter was fine and the service good on this empty lunchtime but tellingly, The Angel is not listed in CAMRA’s WhatPub although it is still worth a visit. Distance from path: On 1066 Harold’s Way Food: Yes Accommodation: No After The Angel, continue by the river until the path turns away into Rotherhithe Street and on the right is the Church of St Mary the Virgin, built in 1715, to replace an earlier 12th century medieval church. There is a great deal of history about this church with connections to the Mayflower and the Pilgrim Fathers plus it has an excellent website. Here, by the river in Rotherhithe, there is a sense of times past – there have been people living and working at the dock since Saxon times and I do feel that I am walking through history. 17

Rotherhithe, July 1620 Men women and children clamouring excitedly waiting to board ship, their usual demeanour forgotten in the face of persecution and the opportunity for a new beginning. What few possessions they owned were already loaded and as the tide rose, the ship creaked and rocked in the water and a few goodbyes were made as the last of the 65 passengers boarded. Rotherhithe was the Mayflower’s home port and she had been carrying wine from the continent but, curiously and unusual for a ship trading to London, there was no record of any voyages of Captain Jones’s Mayflower from 1616. Such a ship would not usually disappear from the records for such a long time and one wonders what cargo she had been running but, in any event, Captain Jones found time to take these Pilgrims to the New World. Other ships lined the wharves, loading and unloading cargo and the noise of men and carts and horses, oaths shouted, orders given and the smell of the Thames would almost be the last that these people would remember of their capital, although they would have a final stop at Plymouth before fleeing England. When the Mayflower set sail for America, the story of the Pilgrim Fathers began. The Mayflower and its crew returned to Rotherhithe in 1621 and the Captain, Christopher Jones, died in 1622 and is buried in St. Mary's Churchyard, a plaque records his journey. The Mayflower PH (8) Must visit historic pub 117 Rotherhithe Street, Rotherhithe, SE16 4NF Tel:020 7237 4088 Next to where the Mayflower lay was The Shippe, a beer house, ignored by the Brethren for they did not drink, but much enjoyed by sailors and traders. Deals were done in the small dark candlelit rooms, buying and selling who knows what in this remote wharf, downstream from London Bridge and the city. Beyond the few houses that made up Rotherhithe were streams and marshes that drained into the great river and it would not be until the end of the century that great man-made docks would begin to be built that would transform the riverside. Later, ‘The Shippe’ of the 1600’s, was rebuilt in the 18th century and renamed as the ‘Spread Eagle and Crown’. In 1957 it was restored and finally named The Mayflower in recognition of its historic connection with America. The pub was the post office for the river and it is licensed to sell both US and British postage stamps with its pints although the custom seems to have fallen by the wayside so don’t ask the staff for a 46 cents stamp. Continues to Page 90 18

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About the Author David lives in St Leonards on Sea, East Sussex, and walks, talks and writes about walking, local history and all things 1066. He is a member of the Outdoor Writers and Photographers Guild and considers that his membership of CAMRA, The Inn Sign Society, The Ramblers and the Long Distance Walkers Association to be a perfect match for walking. He is the author and creator of 1066 Harold’s Way, a 100mile long distance walk inspired by King Harold’s epic march to the Battle of Hastings, 1066. Long Distance Walks 1. Capital to Coast - 1066 Harold’s Way 2. Walking the High Weald - Three Castles and an Ironmaster’s House Books 1. 1066 The Saxon Times 2. Rye in Pictures 3. Pub Guide to Walking 1066 Harold’s Way (Beer Notes) Short Walks in 1066 Country 1. A Green St Leonards on Sea Walk 2. Walks around Battle (Battle Circular Walks) 3. 1066 Bodiam Castle to Battle Abbey 4. Walking Hastings to Rye, Rye to Hastings 5. Secret St Leonards Walking Trail 6. Pub Walks in Hastings and St Leonards 7. 1066 William’s Way, Hastings to Battle 8. Rock a Nore to De La Warr 9. Pub Walks in 1066 Country 10. A Walk around Rye 11. A Walk around Winchelsea 12. More Walks around Rye 20

The Saxon Times 21

MORE THAN JUST FOOTSTEPS ON A PATH The Pub Guide to Walking 1066 Harold’s Way and Capital to Coast 1066 Harold’s Way are published by History Walks www.1066haroldsway.co.uk £9.00 22