Driving Three Castles 2023 Look Inside

Designs and Patents Act 1998 to be identified as the author of these works: Three Castles and an Ironmaster’s House Text, maps and photographs are Copyright David Clarke 2022 All rights reserved. No reproduction permitted without the prior consent of the author. At the time of writing, all routes are fully open but diversions can be made at any time for which I cannot be held responsible, and care should be taken to abide by any local restrictions subsequent to the writing of Driving the High Weald: Three Castles and an Ironmaster’s House. When following the route of Driving the High Weald, please respect the Highway Code. This leisurely drive is mostly on B roads and country lines and although the speed limit may be unrestricted it is with safety in mind that you should consider that any speed limit is advisory and caution suggests that slower is safer. History Walks or David Clarke do not accept any responsibility for any injuries or losses which may occur on ‘Driving the High Weald’. While every care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the route directions, History Walks Talks and Books cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions or for changes in the information provided. It is possible for road numbers to change, roads closed and diversions, however temporary, to be put in place. If readers become aware of changes which have taken place since publication, I would like to hear about them. When driving, weather conditions can change, roads and driving may become more difficult. When walking, paths may become slippery, muddy and difficult and the publishers can take no responsibility for incidents arising from following Driving the High Weald: Three Castles and an Ironmaster’s House. Copyright © David Clarke 2022 Front Cover: Goudhurst Back Cover: Biddenden 2

CHECK LIST FOR KIDS or even Adults Just a bit of fun to add interest to a drive in the car. The four great National Trust properties offer adventures for younger people such as climbing the towers at Bodiam Castle and Sissinghurst Castle, admiring the old Rolls Royce at Bateman’s and at Battle Abbey, English Heritage, walking the battlefield. Entry is free for NT members and EH members but can be expensive if you are not a member. Go Ape at Bedgebury Pinetum is superb as are the forest trails. Bewl Water offers similar opportunities to let off steam but again there is an entry charge at both. he Pub Signs are a bit of an ‘I Spy’ game, you don’t have to go inside if you don’t want to and there is always that proviso of ‘Don’t Drink and Drive’ but some of the pubs and inns are historic and well worth a visit for a coffee, a soft drink or a meal. A downloadable Check List can be found at www.1066haroldsway.co.uk using the QR code. It will save all the squabbling! O Stand on Benenden Green and read the Riot Act. O Find the bust of Sir Foulweather Jack Norris. O Check out the Chulkhurst Twins on Biddenden village sign. O Find the ship’s figurehead marooned on Biddenden High Street. O I Spy Elizabeth I’s plaque in Cranbrook. O Marvel at St Paul’s railings in Lamberhurst. O What year is written on the grave slab of David Barham? O Imagine firing the Mayfield cannon. O Read about Pelham Hall in Burwash. O Look for the smuggler’s grave in Burwash churchyard. O Admire Mad Jack’s pyramid in Brightling churchyard. O Look for the squint window in St Mary’s, Battle. O Find the Old Pharmacy on Battle High Street. 3

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Driving the High Weald of Kent and East Sussex The Driving Guide to Three Castles and an Ironmaster’s House And Battle Abbey Devised and Written by David Clarke To drive Three Castles and an Ironmaster’s House is to discover the hidden valleys, hills, villages and ancient lanes that make up the landscape of the beautiful and historic High Weald of Outstanding Natural Beauty. 6

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CONTENTS 3 9 Check List for Kids 11 Forewood 13 Introduction 16 18 Travel 21 Tour Synopsis 22 1066 24 Peace 25 The High Weald 27 Charcoal 30 Iron 31 Smuggling 32 Driving Three Castles and an Ironmaster’s House 34 Preserving the H W Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty 54 Accommodation 74 Tour 1: Bodiam Castle to Sissinghurst Castle 96 Tour 2: Sissinghurst Castle to Scotney Castle 109 Tour 3: Scotney Castle to Bateman’s 121 Tour 4: Bateman’s to Battle Abbey Tour 5: Battle Abbey to Bodiam Castle Bibliography The following links will help you plan your journey ahead of your drive. BBC Weather Forecast Tourist Information 8

FOREWORD In 2014, when I began to research, walk and write Three Castles and an Ironmaster’s House, I did not foresee how popular the walk guidebook would become and indeed the walk has become my most in demand talk. Quite often, those enthralled by scenery have bought the book with the intent to drive rather than walk, muttering that ‘the knees have gone’ and ‘I can’t do more than three miles now’ or ‘it would have been a breeze when I was younger’. As a result, this Driving Guide seemed a natural extension to Walking the High Weald to follow a road route between those four great National Trust Houses that are the cornerstones of this corner of Kent and East Sussex. And free from the restrictions that the walking route imposed and the inaccessibility of public transport, I have been able to add to the route. It would have been unforgivable not to visit Battle Abbey and the site of the Battle of Hastings 1066. that changed the course of English history. There are other historic towns and villages that deserve a mention and help to define the High Weald Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Finally, and as I found when walking Three Castles and an Ironmaster’s House, I became constantly aware of the changing nature of the landscape, its industry and history. The opportunity to visit pubs such as; The Woodcock, The Milkhouse, The Old Vine and the George enhanced the rural charm as well as the spirit, notwithstanding the need for the driver to enjoy his or her soft drink. I do hope that this Guide to Driving the High Weald (Three Castles and an Ironmaster’s House) will give you the inspiration to enjoy the High Weald and its cultural heritage, through the turn-by-turn driving notes, the history and the anecdotes that I have found so interesting in my research. In the original book, I had hoped to use the subtitle Three Castles and a Knight and in fact, this was the working title for much of the writing of the book and the walk. Bodiam, Sissinghurst and Scotney were quickly identified as the three castles, with Bateman’s in the south-west corner forming the fourth corner of a rough square on the map. Rudyard Kipling lived at Bateman’s and was one of the most popular writers in England in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. He wrote in both prose and verse with Henry James describing him as ‘the most complete man of 9

genius that I have ever known’. In 1907 Kipling was awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature, the first English-language writer to receive the prize and ‘Kim’ is a book that I have read over and over again since my GCE ‘O’ level years. He must have been knighted if only to create a title that would have been right on a couple of levels for Three Castles but, sounded out on several occasions for a knighthood, he declined hence ‘Three Castles and an Ironmaster’s House’, Bateman’s being a former Ironmaster’s House. My main object in writing Driving the High Weald is to draw attention to some of the features of interest, history and beauty in the HWOB and inspire readers to further explore and discover all that is on offer, either on foot, by car or by bike. St Leonards on Sea, February 2023. Pelham House Burwash 10

INTRODUCTION The High Weald is no bleak moor guarded by grey granite hillsides that rise from the dark peat, a landscape with no trees to soften the horizon. Occasionally, I do think about those dark peaks and remember the heat rising from the purple heather on a hot summer’s day or the crunch of a crisp frost and sharp blue skies over Mam Tor on the way to Edale. I choose to forget those days of driving rain over Bleaklow, sinking knee deep in wet peat at every step. The High Weald is an altogether softer countryside of rolling hills, rivers, woods and hedgerows; of ridges and valleys and a patchwork of smaller fields. Farms and oasthouses scatter the view from almost every vantage point and all are connected by ancient roads, Roman roads and sunken lanes. There is a natural beauty to the High Weald, that has been enhanced though conservation and history, and by ‘Driving the High Weald’ on Three Castles and an Ironmaster’s House, you can experience this Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) at first hand. The ‘Weald’ means wilderness or forest, and the hills were once covered by the Forest of the Andreasweald, the most densely wooded area of England at the time of the Domesday Book in 1086. Today the High Weald AONB covers 1460 acres and stretches over parts of East and West Sussex, Kent and Surrey: it is the third largest of all the AONBs exceeded only by the Cotswolds and the North Wessex Downs. There is a long history to the High Weald and the route of ‘Three Castles and an Ironmaster’s House’ offers the chance to explore the Weald, south of Tunbridge Wells, in a 75 mile circular drive. It connects four of the most outstanding National Trust properties in Kent and East Sussex with Battle Abbey (English Heritage), the site of the Battle of Hastings, and provides an opportunity to discover the history of this Southern Weald. The National Trust owns and acts as guardians for Bodiam Castle, Sissinghurst Castle, Scotney Castle and Bateman’s which are the cornerstones of Three Castles and an Ironmaster’s House and the history of all four properties is interwoven into the fabric of the High Weald. All have had their part to play in the industry and prosperity of Kent and Sussex. 11

From that most romantic Castle in all of England, rising from its moat, Three Castles sets out to admire the splendid but chequered history of Sissinghurst Castle, the fairy tale moated 14th century Scotney Castle, with its tales of intrigue, to the homely, sturdy Bateman’s built for the prosperous iron-master John Brittan but which later became the home of Rudyard Kipling. Discover the battlefield that shaped England’s history after 1066 and enjoy the visitor experience of Battle Abbey and the historic town. They are all special and unique and all provide links to the changing fortunes of the Weald and of the South-East of England, from the time of the Norman Conquest in 1066 to the present day. They gave me the inspiration to discover and write Three Castles and an Ironmaster’s House. Three Castles and an Ironmaster’s House is an opportunity to take the time to explore, if you wish, the houses and towns and villages along the route. It follows man’s ingenuity and progress and the changing industry from agriculture to iron, to sheep, to the woollen trade, smuggling, hopfields and back to agriculture. There are smugglers’ tales, mechanical riots, furnace ponds and old iron workings, a vengeful dragon, hop-pickers and Napoleon’s horse. Leisurely journeys and the occasional stop in some hideaway pub, makes this route all the more rewarding – ‘so much of England is just around the corner’ said JB Priestley. There are chalk hills, rivers and meadows and the still dark woods of what was once the Forest of the Andreasweald. This part of Kent and East Sussex still has an ‘olden’ feel to it, a rolling countryside with few houses and its agriculture, which for the most is now the only industry. No season of the year is closed, enjoyment can be gained on a bright crisp winter's morning, or on an 'Indian summer's day' in the autumn. Equally rewarding is springtime when the countryside is full of new life and growth. The Weald takes it all in, whatever the weather, although that infamous Wealden clay is not far away after a period of heavy rain if you are tempted out of the car for a walk. There is a soul to this drive; one that reflects the passions and industry of man and also the tensions of war and rebellion. It is now a very pastoral route with only occasional reminders of the noise, smoke and fire of the iron industry. The ironmasters and the rich woollen trade are survived by their architecture at Sissinghurst, Cranbrook, Burwash and Brightling. 12

The derelict hop-pickers cottages, next to the River Teise in Lamberhurst, provide a startling contrast to the rich and landed. Perhaps the ‘big houses’ are more frequent than in other parts of the country, often one every two miles or so, but they serve as a reminder of the long established roots of the landed gentry stretching back to the Normans. Three Castles and an Ironmaster’s House is a journey around the Weald with convenient access points at Tunbridge Wells and Hastings. In this age of speeding cars, I find that for once I can take my time to plan my journey and there is always another day if time runs out. GETTING THERE The South-East of England is one of the great playgrounds of London, extending from the North Downs to the sea and within that is the beautiful High Weald. The major route from London or from Hastings is the A21 and all of the driving route is accessible from this central spine. There has been no attempt to give a complete list of hotels, pubs, restaurants and cafes but rather a selection which I believe may be of interest along the route. However, landlords do leave, pubs close and reopen and their character can change for better or worse for which I cannot take any responsibility and the omission of a name does not imply a condemnation. Tunbridge Wells is a useful base as are Battle, Hastings, Rye and Tenterden as all are within easy reach of this circular route. Regrettably, it has proven impossible to cover the route by public transport. ENJOY YOUR TOUR Before you set off, please read though the tour to get an idea of the route. If the visibility is poor, it might be better to leave the drive for another day. The weather can be fickle but pick a good day, and you will enjoy the views and the walking opportunities outlined in the routes to their full. Driving the High Weald: Three Castles and an Ironmaster’s House is a circular tour and can be started at any point. To make the routes easier to follow, all navigational instructions have been printed in red. 13

The times given for each tour cover the motoring element only and are based on a relaxed pace. In most cases, you will find that each section of the tour takes a full day if you stop off at the places and attractions described or follow any of the walks mentioned. Please note that opening times for the various attractions may vary and it is always advisable to check before visiting. There are no major problems attached to driving in the High Weald. You will find that many of the country lanes are not busy, apart from peak summer weekends and Bank Holidays. It must be emphasized that the routes were driven in fine conditions, quite often with the sun shining but in poorer or wet weather the roads and lanes may become hazardous. Drivers should drive as the conditions allow and be aware of and within the speed limits at all times. Some minor roads are lined with high hedges which severely restrict visibility, the narrower lanes may have passing places and much of the route can be shared with cyclists, walkers and horse riders and care and caution should always be exercised. WHEN AND WHERE TO GO The following is a brief description of each of the five driving tours that straddle Kent and East Sussex in the Southeast of England. There really is far too much to see and do to envisage completing all five tours in one day. Better to take your time and revel in the history and the beauty of the High Weald. Four of the properties are National Trust and Battle Abbey is English Heritage and whilst membership is not essential, it can save you money, allows free parking and the opportunity to visit again if you run out of time. All five properties attract a multitude of visitors and Bodiam Castle, Sissinghurst Castle and Battle Abbey have an international reputation where visitors can be bussed in by the coachload. Spring and Autumn are less busy than the summer months and school holidays but even in peak season there is still room to manoeuvre and enjoy the history and the character of all the properties. Each have tearooms and parking and space to picnic. 14

South-East England tends to be drier, warmer, sunnier and less windy than the west and north of England and it is also furthest from the path of most Atlantic depressions that bring can cloud, wind and rain. The climate is relatively calm with the most favourable weather conditions more often occurring in the spring and summer rather than in autumn and winter but as with all weather, forecasts, can change for the better or worse. Certainly, Kent and East Sussex are amongst the sunniest, warmest and driest parts of England and that will allow you to enjoy the High Weald for most of the year. But just to be on the safe side: www.bbc.co.uk/weather Bedgebury Pinetum 15

TOUR 1: BODIAM CASTLE TO SISSINGHURST CASTLE Possibly the most beautiful castle in all of England, rising up from its moat, to guard what was once the Appledore Estuary against a French Invasion. The route leaves the flood plain of the River Rother and crosses the historic Kent Ditch. Meadow and pasture join with mature trees and woods. Isolated houses and farms are the only habitation until Sandhurst with its school, bus links, tea shop, shop and pub and then it is a drive along what was once the major Roman road north towards Maidstone. The wealth of Sandhurst was not built on iron, but on farming, sheep and wool and later, no doubt, smuggling played its part too. The same can be said of Benenden, with its beautiful green, one of the biggest and best in Kent that resounds to cricket in the lazy days of summer. TOUR 2: SISSINGHURST CASTLE TO SCOTNEY CASTLE Sissinghurst Castle is the second of our castles but this ‘castle’ is attributed to whim and whimsey as it never saw a battle or defend anything more than its ‘far from pleasant situation, low in a wet clayey soil, without prospect, and enveloped with large tracts of surrounding woodland.’ (Edward Hasted 1798). Today it is one of the most visited gardens in England and the National Trust tearooms provide a welcome respite. Cranbrook, at the centre of the woollen trade, heralds the start of climbs up to ridges, descents to the valleys and the streams and rivers that once provided the power for the Wealden iron furnaces. There’s a vengeful dragon lurking in Angley Wood on the way to Goudhurst but you’re safe in the car unless you decide to stretch your legs (I’ve seen the evidence of burnt out trees scorched by the dragon’s breath) but the stories are more likely attributed to the infamous Hawkhurst smuggling gang. TOUR 3: SCOTNEY CASTLE TO BATEMAN’S The intrigue, secrecy and spies of Scotney Castle are just a diversion from the job of making money. By the 17th century, the iron furnaces between Lamberhurst and Burwash were being stoked for the production of cannon, grave slabs and the railings for St Paul’s, London. Wadhurst, long identified as standing on a prehistoric ridgeway, once had 36 ironworks within six miles and 24 local families were owners and operators of the furnaces and forges. Imagine the thrall of smoke and noise. 16

Mayfield was another centre for iron production in the once industrial High Weald. It was also the home of the Mayfield Gang of smugglers with the infamous Gabriel Tomkins their leader until he was caught, turned informant and became a Customs Officer! There is little evidence left of such industry or smuggling on the way to Burwash and Batemans but in the churchyard at Burwash look for the ‘Skull and Crossbones’ marked on the graves that legend suggests were smugglers, hanged as their penalty for falling foul of the Revenue Men. TOUR 4: BATEMAN’S TO BATTLE ABBEY Bateman’s is Kipling. Enticed by its warmth and seclusion, nestling below Burwash by the River Dudwell, he lived there until 1936. Bateman’s is also the start of the climb up to Brightling Needle and just one of Mad Jack Fuller’s Follies. There is a Pyramid in the churchyard and a Tower on the path to Darwell Reservoir. The Observatory can just be seen but Mad Jack was not all just fun, for it was he that saved Bodiam Castle from demolition. Thank you Jack. TOUR 5: BATTLE ABBEY TO BODIAM CASTLE The Battle of Hastings changed the course of our history and ended the Anglo-Saxon dynasty that had lasted for 600 years. Duke William promised that if God gave him victory he would build a church on the site of the battle. The high altar is said to mark the spot where Harold fell. At the same time as the church was built, the site was renamed 'Battle'. The Benedictines later built an abbey, dissolved by Henry VIII in 1538 but of William’s church there is nothing left and the Abbey has had a chequered history. Much of Battle Abbey was pulled down after The Dissolution and converted into a private house. The refectory still stands, roofless, but well preserved and the impressive 14th century gateway has survived largely in its original state. The house is now a school, and the remaining grounds and buildings are English Heritage. There is a Visitor Centre on site and an excellent café/restaurant and on opportunity to walk the battle site and, if you desire, two shortish circular walks that take in both King Harold and Duke William’s camps before the Battle of Hastings (History Walks Book 2: Battle Circular Walks). At Robertsbridge, Three Castles returns to a lowland river valley where once ‘Hoppicker’s Specials’ ran from Robertsbridge Station towards Bodiam Castle and beyond. The trains may return once the line is restored. 17

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TOUR 1: BODIAM CASTLE TO SISSINGHURST CASTLE Miles A must to explore. Start Bodiam Castle NT 14th C Castle & Tea Rooms 1.50 Sandhurst Cross 13th C St Nicholas Church & views 2.40 Sandhurst Refreshments The New Swan & Sandhurst Tea Rooms 4.75 Iden Green The Woodcock 6.00 Benenden Worth a stroll & Refreshments The Bull & Benenden Community Cafe 7.25 Hemsted Forest Parking & forest walks 9.60 Gribble Bridge Biddenden Vineyard Lane Taste the wine & the cider 11.00 Biddenden Worth an explore 16th C weaver’s cottages & pavement 12.50 Three Chimneys 13th C church, The Red Lion & Biddenden Cafe 15.00 Sissinghurst Castle Three Chimneys pub & Gardens NT A must to explore 16.00 Sissinghurst 16th C Castle & Tea Rooms The Milk House Bodiam Castle PARKING Sandhurst Benenden NT Car Park (pay, free NT Members) Hemsted Forest On street, Pub car park, Tearoom Car park Biddenden Vineyard On street Biddenden Car park Sissinghurst Castle Car park Car park NT Car Park (pay, free NT Members) ROUTE 19

Winding and twisting country lanes that are sometimes narrow, rise and fall on the drive to Sandhurst to follow the line of the old Roman road towards Iden Green and Benenden, through a low undulating landscape. Yet another minor Roman road at Goddard’s Green, skirts Hemsted Forest and leads to Biddenden, Three Chimneys and Sissinghurst Castle. It is a drive through mainly agricultural lowland devoted to sheep and cattle, orchards and hops. Hemsted Forest is a large mixed but mostly coniferous wood that covers some 981 acres and links tenuously with the Sissinghurst Castle Estate. East are the remains of an iron furnace and to the west of Benenden there is evidence of Roman occupation close to the Roman road. History Walks 13: More Pub Walks gives details of a short circular walk from Sandhurst to Sandhurst Cross and back that in part follows the line of the old Roman road and offers a chance to embrace walking in the Weald. To get the most from this guide, it is suggested that you read through the history before the drive to fully appreciate what the Tour has to offer. 20

DRIVING This romantic castle surrounded by its moat, never saw war. The French threat during the 100 Years War was never forthcoming and the English Civil War passed it by. Now, on summer days, the invasion of Bodiam Castle is from legions of coaches on tours of castles and gardens, their passengers stretching after hours spent sitting, milling and jostling for tea, coffee and cake. It is an unruly army with a mind of its own fighting against the orders given by the tour guide, ignoring times and getting lost much to the driver’s impatience – it can be fun to watch. The Romans knew of Bodiam and they were also aware of its importance as a potential port. A strong case can be made for the existence of a Roman Imperial estate that controlled the Wealden iron industry locally and also the transport north to Rochester. Bodiam lay on that Roman road north, where it crossed the River Rother, but there is little sign now of their occupation except for the line of Roman road that can be seen on the hillside approaching the Castle. There was an extensive Romano-British settlement at Bodiam. ‘CLBR’ stamped tiles have been found which suggested that the site might have been the river port of the Classis Britannica (the Roman Imperial Navy of Britain, CLBR). Similar CLBR tiles have been discovered at Beauport Park, to the south of Bodiam where a substantial Roman bathhouse has been excavated and north, near Sissinghurst, along the Roman road. The valley that stretches out to the east and west was once under water and in medieval times was known as the Appledore Estuary. The great storms of the 14th century changed the coastline and the water began to drain away although the River Rother remained deep enough to be navigable for trade up to Bodiam until the start of the 20th century. Now the river is confined to pleasure cruises from Northiam from April to September. The River Rother sweeps down to Rye, joining the Kent Ditch, that runs north-west and the River Brede, to the south. The wind blows across the valley floor ruffling the grasses and there is an absence of noise – it is all so very quiet. It must have been the same when the Domesday Book recorded that Osbert de Bodeham lived in a timbered hall at Boda’s water meadow (oe ‘bodan hamm’). Locally in Sussex, Bodiam is pronounced ‘Bodgem’. 21

The Manor eventually passed to Sir Edward Dalyngrigge (1346-1393) through marriage to an heiress of the de Bodehams and he was granted the right in 1385 to build a castle at the head of the navigable River Rother: 1385, Jan. 18 - He, John Cobham, John Devereux and Simon de Burle, constable of Dover castle and warden of the Cinque Ports are ordered to levy from the fishermen of the eastern Sussex and western Kent coast 3d on every noble of fish landed in view of an imminent French invasion of the ports. On 21 Oct. he obtains a licence to fortify and crenellate his manor of Bodiam near the sea so as to convert it into a castle for defence of the surrounding land in war. Calendar of Patent Rolls (1232 - 1401) During the Hundred Years War, Free Companies operated as private mercenary armies to raid and pillage the French countryside, earning fearsome reputations and great fortunes. Sir Edward was a mercenary in one of the Free Companies, serving under Sir Robert Knollys, who was judged to be the ‘most able and skillful man- at-arms in all the companies’. Sir Robert had risen from the ranks in the Breton wars, gaining a knighthood along the way. The French recorded him as Sir Robert Canole (and Cannolles), who “grievously harmed France all the days of his life”. The object of Sir Robert Knolly’s savage raids through France was to do as much injury as possible, damage the French war effort and hold back French forces from Aquitaine. Sir Edward became very wealthy from his mercenary efforts and it enabled him to build Bodiam Castle – no doubt in fear of French reprisals. After the English Civil War, the castle was partly dismantled and eventually fell into disrepair but ‘Mad Jack’ Fuller was about to play his part and the county owes him a great debt. In 1829, when it was due to be demolished by a firm of Hastings Builders, Mad Jack bought the dilapidated Bodiam Castle preserving it until the restoration work began in the 19th century. In 1916, Lord Curzon purchased the castle continuing the huge task and on his death in 1925, he left Bodiam Castle to the National Trust. There is more about the legacy of Squire John ‘Mad Jack’ Fuller in Tour 4: Bateman’s to Battle Abbey. The landscape, which the ruins of the Castle protect, is one of the most remote and unspoiled in East Sussex. The wide valley allows big skies to create a sense of isolation and rivers and larger channels are hidden behind raised grassy flood banks. 22

Smaller ditches are almost invisible from a distance and a brick pumping station to the east marks the joining of the Kent Ditch, the historic border between Kent and East Sussex. On either side of the valley floor the wooded slopes lead up to hidden villages on the ridges but ahead just lies space, heading towards the sea at Rye. After heavy rain, the Appledore Estuary is reclaimed with a shimmer over flooded fields and you can imagine a time hundreds of years before. Leave Bodiam Castle and turn right, up the winding Main Street to the junction at the top of the hill and turn right, signposted Sandhurst 2 miles. Surprisingly, this reasonably narrow road (Bodiam Road) is a bus route and, if you are unlucky, you can meet a bus taking up most of the road round the sharp bends at the bottom of the hills. Continue straight ahead at the crossroads at the edge of Sandhurst and drive ¾ mile to the village centre. These crossroads are shown on the OS map as at Sandhurst Cross and marks the site of Old Sandhurst. The old village overlooked the Appledore Estuary and the Kent Ditch and it is likely that there was a Saxon chapel on the site of the present church. It may have just been a rest stop for the Romans, on the way up the hill from Bodiam, but by the year 791, the Manor of Sandhurst was given to Canterbury Christ Church by Offa, King of Mercia. If you had stood there in October 1066, you would have been able to watch King Harold’s army pass by on the march to Caldbec Hill and the Battle of Hastings. There would have been a camp on the night of the 12th October all the way down from the ridge to the edge of the estuary as it would have taken most of the day and night for 5000 men to cross the long and narrow causeway over the water. It is believed, by some, that the villagers of Old Sandhurst moved to a new village on the Rye Road to flee the Black Death that had taken hold of the old village between 1348 and 1353. Others suggest the village moved to take advantage of the increased trade on the ridge road from Hawkhurst to a Rye that was gaining in importance during the Middle Ages. For whatever reason, the village moved a mile or so north to the site of the present day village. 23

There is a danger that Sandhurst can be too easily dismissed by the families in cars and the drivers of the vans and lorries travelling along the A268 on the way to Hawkhurst or Rye. The blur of the journey overtakes the history but Sandhurst is not just the main road with its ‘modern’ brick housing and re-built Swan. On the western edge of the village, those speeding motorists cross the old Roman road with barely a glance but travel by bus from Bodiam Castle and the road is lined with tile cottages, clapperboard houses, manors and farms all the way from Old Sandhurst to the Rye Road. The past importance of Sandhurst is reflected in the 97 Grade 1 and 2 Listed Buildings in the parish with just a population of 1328. Continued……………………. 24

Sandhurst and Sandhurst Cross are worth a walk - History Walks Book 13 More Pub Walks in 1066 Country. 25

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BIBLIOGRAPHY A Saunter though Kent with Pen and Pencil, Sir Charles Igglesden Anglo-Saxon England, Peter Hunter Blair England, HV Morton Exploring Woodlands in the South-east, The Forestry Trust Footpaths of Kent and Sussex Border , Joseph Braddock Fuller of Sussex, Geoff Hutchinson High Weald Walk, Mike Smith Imperial Gazetteer of England and Wales, John Marius Wilson Kent, Sussex and Surrey, ed L Russell Muirhead 1936 Parish of Benenden, Rev Haslewood Smuggling in Kent and Sussex 1700-1840, Mary Waugh The East Sussex Village Book, Rupert Taylor The Four Men, Hilaire Belloc The History and Topographical Survey of the County of Kent, Edward Hasted The King’s England Kent, Arthur Mee The Place Names of Kent, Judith Glover The Place Names of Sussex, Judith Glover The South East from AD 1000, Brandon & Short The Violent Captain Swing, Carl Griffin The Weald of Kent Surrey and Sussex, The Weald.org Wealden Iron, H Cleere Wealden Iron, Wealden Research Group British Listed Buildings High Weald Annual Report The Mills Archive 29

ABOUT THE AUTHOR David lives in St Leonards on Sea, East Sussex, and walks, talks and writes about walking, local history and all things 1066. He is a member of the Outdoor Writers and Photographers Guild and considers that his membership of CAMRA, The Inn Sign Society, The Ramblers and the Long Distance Walkers Association to be a perfect match for walking. He is the author and creator of 1066 Harold’s Way, a 100mile long distance walk inspired by King Harold’s epic march to the Battle of Hastings, 1066. Long Distance Walks 1. Capital to Coast: 1066 Harold’s Way (3rd Edition) 2. Three Castles and an Ironmaster’s House (2nd Edition) Books 1. The Saxon Times (2nd Edition) 2. Driving the High Weald 3. The Weald of Kent Canal 4. Rye in Pictures Short Walks in 1066 Country 1. A Green St Leonards on Sea Walk 2. Walks around Battle (Battle Circular Walks) 3. 1066 Bodiam Castle to Battle Abbey 4. Walking Hastings to Rye, Rye to Hastings 5. Secret St Leonards Walking Trail 6. Pub Walks in Hastings and St Leonards 7. 1066 William’s Way, Hastings to Battle 8. Rock a Nore to De La Warr 9. Pub Walks in 1066 Country 10. A Walk around Rye 11. A Walk around Winchelsea 12. More Walks around Rye 13. More Pub Walks www.1066haroldsway.co.uk 30

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