San Juan Skyway Visitor Guide summer/fall 2020

S ykywaSaJn uan Summer/Fall 2020

H A heartfelt thank you to all of our customers and friends H DELI H ICE CREAM H GROCERIES HUNTING & FISHING LICENSES H WINE & SPIRITS H Family owned and operated H Celebrating 100 years of service to the San Juan Miguel River Valley community and outdoor enthusiasts. 240 Front Street H Placerville, Colorado H 970.728.3216

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Towns Along the Skyway Contents 8 12 18 26 32 38 42 44 46Ridgway Ouray Silverton Durango Mancos Cortez Dolores Rico Telluride 24-25 San Juan Skyway map and routes Features 10 Grab and Go Paddleboards and kayaks for rent at Ridgway Reservoir 14 Get a Grip Ouray opens new Via Ferrata route 14 20 Taking the High Road Hardrockers help with trail repair 22 Hidden Gems Secret spots on the San Juan Skyway 28 A New Era Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad to switch from coal to oil 28 30 Back to the Future Electric vehicle charging stations proliferate the skyway 34 Unique Unknowns Heritage orchards identify and propagate rare apple trees 40 Cream of the Crop Non-GMO Ute Mountain corn celebrates tribe’s heritage, today’s farm-to-table movement 40 48 A Century of Service 4 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2020 M&M Mercantile celebrates a hundred years in business 50 Upshot Headed for the Hills

REDEFINING EXPECTATIONS OF MOUNTAIN DINING From the intimacy of Allred’s and exotic cuisine of Siam’s Talay Grille, to the healthy choices of Altezza at The Peaks, Telluride Ski Resort offers the finest range of dining experiences. This season, we invite you to unwind and enjoy the stunning views and exclusivity of mountain dining that you’ve been craving. TellurideSkiResort.com/Dining

HIGH T IM ES AT S ykywaSaJn uan VISITOR GUIDE HIGH ALTITUDE SkywaySaJn uanTELLURIDE PUBLISHING, LLC ~ Support BOU TIQUE CANNABIS AT 8,750’ ELE V. TGRS. FIR SAN JUAN AVE. VAIDSIVTEORRTGISUINIDGE LOCALLY 250 S. FIR Jenny Page BOuWsinNesEseDs! 970 -728 -7 9 9 9 ~ ONE BLOCK EAST OF THE TELLURIDE GONDOLA STATION EDITORIAL Deb Dion Kees GARY RATCLIFF ~ CREATIVE DIRECTOR Kristal Franklin ~ DISTRIBUTION Telluride Delivers ~ WEB GURU Susan Hayse ~ PHOTOGRAPHERS Steve Fassbinder Gary Ratcliff ~ WRITERS Elizabeth Guest Sarah Lavender Smith Maple Andrew Taylor Lorraine Weissman ~ The San Juan Skyway Visitor Guide is produced by Telluride Publishing. Telluride Publishing also produces Telluride Magazine For more information, visit telluridemagazine.com For advertising inquiries: [email protected] 970-729-0913 For editorial inquiries: [email protected] 970-708-0060 ©2020 Telluride Publishing, LLC. Cover and contents are fully protected and must not be reproduced in any manner without written permission from the publisher. ~ ON THE COVER The Milky Way glimmers above Bridal Veil Falls in Telluride. Photo by Gary Ratcliff 6 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2020

REBIRTH The world before COVID-19 and the world after For the first time in decades, people in New Delhi donating to GoFundMe pages, and wearing masks in (“A New Era,” p.28). And of course, there is the story could see the Himalaya; the skies above Los An- public. We appreciated our essential workers: the delivery about the rise of electric vehicles in Colorado (“Back geles were also clear, as traffic paused and smog drivers, grocery and liquor store employees, and medical to the Future,” pp. 44–46). Did you know that the first lifted. In New York City, you could hear birdsong, and providers who manned the front lines during the crisis. electric vehicle in the United States was developed in coyotes roamed the streets in San Francisco. 1891? It seems impossible to imagine that the com- The world before COVID-19 and the world after will bustion engine somehow overtook the entire automo- The effects of the pandemic were more visible look a little different, or at the very least be viewed from bile industry for more than a century. But now, as the in urban areas than they were in rural places like the different lenses. It will be a renewal, a rebirth of sorts. skies clear and the stargazing improves, perhaps there towns along the San Juan Skyway. We’re used to see- is a paradigm shift in the making. Gigantic changes like ing wildlife, and clear skies and clean air are part of So much of this issue is about regeneration. The these typically take tiny steps, generation by generation, the reason we choose to live here. The changes that way the Ute Mountain tribe is producing non-GMO corn but maybe—just maybe—something like this pandem- COVID-19 laid bare in southwest Colorado were much (“Cream of the Crop,” p. 38) the same way their ances- ic will shake the foundation and make space for a whole more subtle—when the train stopped running, ski tors grew maize. The heritage orchards being cultivated new way of looking at things and a brand new world. resorts closed early, and hotels and businesses shut in Montezuma County (“Unique Unknowns,” pp.32–34) down, we came to realize just how important tourism from the few remaining apple hybrids in the region. All the best, is to our local economies. The rebuilding of the course for the Hardrock 100 race (“Taking the High Road,” p. 20). Durango & Sil- Deb Dion Kees We also realized how vital we all are to each other. verton Narrow Gauge Railroad is revitalizing its fleet of We supported our local businesses by ordering takeout, coal-burning locomotives to include oil-burning trains Editor, San Juan Skyway Visitor Guide SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2020 7

Ridgway GARY RATCLIFF EVEN HOLLYWOOD TOOK NOTE OF RIDGWAY’S SPECTACULAR WESTERN SCENERY AND CHARACTER, SETTING THE ORIGINAL FILM TRUE GRIT HERE DECADES AGO. Ridgway is the northernmost entry to the San Juan Skyway and is known as the Gateway to the San Juans. Its beautifully manicured town park hosts music concerts, arts festivals, and a farmers market and its county fairgrounds is home to a great professional rodeo that caps off the summer. Ridgway has a sprawling reservoir with camping and its tributary the Uncompahgre River, with all sorts of watersports opportunities, including boating, SUP, tubing, fishing, and waterskiing. The community is a hub for artists and artisans, with lots of galleries and outdoor sculpture, and the Ridgway Railroad Museum pays tribute to the town’s advent as a transportation hub, headquarters of the Rio Grande Southern narrow gauge railroad serving miners, ranchers and farmers in the 1800s. 8 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2020

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GRAB AND GO Paddleboards and kayaks for rent at Ridgway Reservoir Probably the hardest part of sports like kayaking blowing up an inflatable paddleboard or ducky, no It’s an affordable, fun, and easy way for families or any- and stand up paddleboarding (SUP) is trans- more fumbling to strap a boat or a paddle to the top of one to get out on the water.” porting the gear. Unless you have a rack system your car. “People love it,” says Tim Patterson of RIGS. or a huge vehicle, getting a board or a boat to “We’ve found that it’s been transformative, not just for Rentals are discounted if someone wants to take the place where you want to take it out is a challenge. visitors but also locals. They literally just come into them out for multiple hours, and Patterson says that the park and pull up right there, get a quick paddle in, there is plenty to explore on the reservoir. “The lake Until now. and don’t have to worry about transport.” shore on the west has a lot of great beach areas and Now there are two concessionaires at the Ridgway pull-off spots.” Reservoir renting water crafts. At the Dallas Creek en- Patterson says that RIGS only rents hardboard gear trance, RIGS has a stand where visitors and locals can made in the U.S.—they have more rigidity and perform For anyone wanting a little more adventure, there pay to take out paddleboards or sit-on-top kayaks and better than soft boards and boats, and are more acces- is also an inlet area where the Uncompahgre River tandem kayaks by the hour. At the Dutch Charlie en- sible to beginners. And the sit-in-top style of kayak is flows into the reservoir and paddlers can get the feel trance, Montrose Kayak and Surf also rents equipment. particularly safe and easy to use: if they capsize, they of navigating a craft in moving water. “You can pad- So now, if you want to get in a two-hour SUP ses- don’t swamp or fill with water. Boaters can just climb dle upstream into the moving current and get more of sion, or maybe give kayaking a try, it’s all the fun with- back on. And the paddleboards come with ankle leashes an idea about controlling the craft,” says Patterson. out the fuss. You can book online, roll into the state so paddlers don’t get separated from their craft. “Both “There’s a no-wake zone on part of the reservoir so park, pick up your gear and hit the water. No more are designed to be suitable for first timers or beginners. paddlers don’t have to compete with motor boats. It’s just fun and scenic.” 10 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2020

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Ouray GARY RATCLIFF GARY RATCLIFF 12 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2020 WHEN YOU DRIVE INTO OURAY YOU MAY WONDER WHERE YOU TOOK A WRONG TURN AND HOW YOU ENDED UP IN THE EUROPEAN ALPS. From Ouray’s incredible Uncompahgre Gorge (which is famous for its manmade ice climbing park in winter) to the pristine and beautiful mountains in which it is encircled, as well as its quaint Victorian architecture, old-fashioned shops, and historic main drag and museum, the town has a distinctly alpine feel. Ouray has all kinds of recreational opportunities, such as hiking, running, camping, jeeping, river sports, and mountaineering; whatever you do, don’t miss the Perimeter Trail, which offers a stunning view of the Cascade Falls and the gorge. After you recreate, relax by visiting one of Ouray’s geothermal treats: hot springs, a pool, or vapor caves.

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GGERTIAP OURAY OPENS NEW VIA FERRATA ROUTE Europe has about 2,000 of them, but there are fewer than a dozen here in the United States. And the latest and greatest Via Ferrata is right here in Ouray, open for its inaugural season this summer. For the unfamiliar: a Via Ferrata is a climbing route made accessible to non-climbers by means of heavy iron rungs and cables. Essentially they allow a casual outdoors person to experience the thrill of scaling mountains or sheer walls without the risk of injury or need for technical mountaineer- ing skills. Via Ferratas, Italian/Latin for “iron way,” have ex- isted in some form in the Alps and Pyrenees for more than a century, and were used by troops in the Dolomites during the First World War. The routes are popular in Europe, and the trend has ar- rived in the United States. A decade ago in Ouray, climber Clint Cook first proposed the idea of building a Via Ferrata. “It didn’t get off the ground at the time,” says Mark luppen- latz. “Nate Disser and I picked up the idea three years ago and this time around, people were much more receptive.” Disser and luppenlatz formed the nonprofit Friends of the Ouray Via Ferrata to raise money and get permits from city and county officials to build the route. Disser, luppen- latz, and Cook designed the route and Chris Haaland and Matt Hepp engineered it to meet international safety stan- dards. A team of climbers, guides, and “ice farmers”—peo- ple who build and maintain ice climbing routes in Ouray’s Ice Park—installed the Via Ferrata. The Via Ferrata is about a kilometer long, with 4,000 feet of cable and 800-plus rungs, with a hundred-rung vertical section called “Stairway to Heaven.” The route is located in the ice park, and features wire cable bridges that cross the gorge with the roaring creek below. “It’s fairly technical,” says luppenlatz. “Experienced climbers or Via Ferrata-ers could do it themselves. But for people who don’t have a lot of climbing experience or families, we recommend guides—to not only insure the proper equipment is used, but also the proper tech- nique, and to make sure safety is always a priority.” > 14 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2020

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THE ROUTE HAS A VARIETY OF BOTH VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL CLIMBING SECTIONS, INCLUDING AN ISOLATED ROCK SPIRE IN THE MIDDLE OF THE GORGE REACHED BY CABLE SUSPENSION BRIDGES. Access is free, and equipment is included with guide service. The recommended gear includes hel- mets, harnesses, Via Ferrata-specific lanyards that absorb energy, leather gloves, and approach or hik- ing shoes. “We’ve got a small shop on Main Street in Ouray that will be the info center where people can book guides or rent equipment. We’ll have all of that stuff, both for rent and for sale.” Ouray Mountain Sports will also carry Via Ferrata gear, says luppenlatz. The Ouray Via Ferrata starts at the south end of the New Funteer access trail and crosses the Uncompahgre River, continuing north across the east side of the gorge and ending past the Ice Park’s Upper Bridge. The route has a variety of both vertical and horizontal climbing sections, including an isolated rock spire in the middle of the gorge reached by cable suspension bridges. “It will be an exciting start,” says luppenlatz. “You climb down and get to the first cable bridge and step out into the abyss on a cable to cross the creek. It’s thrilling.” As intimidating as it sounds, it’s perfectly safe, says luppenlatz. People are clipped into a safety cable for the entire route, and even though the climb is men- tally challenging it doesn’t require extreme physical fitness. “If you can climb a two-story ladder and hike a mile in the mountains, you’re capable of doing it.” The Ouray Via Ferrata can be open whenever the Ice Park is not; and the route, on the sunny wall of the gorge, has been carefully integrated into other rock climbing routes rather than cutting through them. “Even experi- enced climbers find the Via a thrilling experience,” says luppenlatz. “And it’s what we hope is the first of several in the City of Ouray. If there’s one thing we have, it is cliffs. There is no shortage of cliffs to climb around town.” 16 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2020

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Silverton STEVE FASSBINDER STEVE FASSBINDER 18 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2020 SILVERTON IS THE BEST-KEPT SECRET IN THE SAN JUANS. The tiny, historic town only has about 700 residents, and they like it that way— they have miles and miles of ruggedly beautiful mountains as their private playground, with great jeeping, hiking, biking, trail running, mountaineering and river running in their own backyard. There are classic Victorian buildings to explore, including the notorious Blair Street establishments, mining tours and gold-panning, music, and theatre. Silverton is also home to the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, where visitors arriving on the first train each summer are treated to locals dressed in Victorian-era costumes and the old-time sounds of a brass band.

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TAKING THE HIGH ROAD Hardrockers Help with Trail Repair By Sarah Lavender Smith Each July, the high-country trails around Silver- mild rock climbing (hands required), wade ice cold When this summer’s race starts at 6 a.m., runners ton, Ouray, and Telluride attract a different kind streams, struggle through snow … cross cliffs where will have a 48-hour limit, so some will run through of animal: the rugged, ultra-fit, often grizzled, a fall could send you 300 feet straight down, use fixed the darkness of two nights. A sub-36-hour finish is and predominantly male ultrarunner known as ropes as handrails, and be expected to negotiate the considered speedy at Hardrock, which has the nick- the Hardrocker. course with or without markers.” name “Hardwalk” because so much of the course is un-runnable that runners hike much of it. A select group of 145 of these runners, along with This year, the tight-knit community of Hardrock scores of support crew and hangers-on, make a pil- runners and volunteers feel extra enthusiasm for the Interested in running Hardrock? Gaining entry grimage to the San Juan Mountains each summer for event, because the 2019 race was cancelled due to is almost as difficult as finishing it. Many wanna-be the running of the Hardrock 100, one of North Amer- damaged course conditions resulting from the prior Hardrockers try for the better part of a decade to earn ica’s toughest ultramarathons. You may recognize winter’s extreme snowfall. “Unprecedented avalanche a spot. them by their telltale hydration packs, trekking poles, debris, unstable snow bridges and high-water levels tanned and muscular legs in shorts and trail-running all contributed to us reaching the tough final decision First, you have to qualify to enter by completing shoes, and several layers of clothing for the upper that we did,” race director Dale Garland said last June. a mountainous 100-mile ultra on the Hardrock 100’s body to cope with inclement weather. qualifier list. Then, you face a complex lottery that Disappointed but undeterred, many Hardrockers awards only 45 of the 145 available spots to those The 2020 Hardrock 100 is scheduled to take place nevertheless gathered in Silverton last summer for a who’ve never run it; the remaining are reserved for past July 17–19, but runners begin arriving in the region special “Camp Hardrock” during which they worked Hardrock 100 participants. Given that mostly men have several weeks earlier to acclimate. Starting and ending together on trail repair and enjoyed casual group runs. traditionally run the race, and that the lottery favors in Silverton, the route follows a giant loop over nine veteran participants, only a small fraction of Hardrock major mountain passes, any one of which would make competitors—typically, twenty or fewer—are female. a formidable day hike, passing through Telluride and Ouray along the way. Most runners who don’t get in one year persist in entering in subsequent years and accumulating more Over the hundred miles, the course gains 33,000 tickets. Given the thousands of runners with multiple feet (about 4,000 more than going from sea level to tickets in the lottery, a first-time applicant with a single the top of Everest) and descends an equal amount. Its ticket has only a 0.3 percent chance of getting picked. high point is 14,048 feet on Handies Peak. Anyone who’s fortunate and tough enough to en- With terrain that traverses scree, snow, and ter the Hardrock 100 must “kiss the rock” to finish— storm-swollen streams, and weather that can range that is, plant a kiss on the boulder painted with the from pounding hail and ominous lightning to intense Hardrock logo at the finish line. high-altitude sun, the Hardrock 100 lives up to its motto, “Wild & Tough.” Show up outside the Silverton High School Gym on 12th Street before 6 a.m. on Sunday, July 19, to “This is a dangerous course!” warns the runner’s join the crowd cheering for the final runners who are manual. “In addition to trail running, you will do some striving to meet the 48-hour cutoff. 20 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2020

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HIDDEN GEMS T ourists and even residents in SECRET SPOTS ON THE when Beau and Jenna Black took the towns along the San Juan SAN JUAN SKYWAY over and transformed the space. Skyway tend to get herded The speakeasy is as much an to the popular places—the homage to the bookstore as it is most prominent restaurants, bars, to the Prohibition Era. The menus and attractions. They flock to the hot are beautiful leather-bound jour- spots, the signature businesses. nals containing a list of the favorite But there are still some hidden By Deb Dion, Maple Andrew Taylor cocktails of 20th century authors gems, places that thrive because and Lorraine Weissman like Ernest Hemingway and Jack of a whisper campaign, a reliance Kerouac and stories about the on word-of-mouth referrals. We are writers. “We built the whole theme going to let you in on a few of the best-kept secrets so back in time. The bar and furnishings are reminiscent around it being a bookstore. We wanted to honor that you can experience these unique places for yourself. of the 1920s: red leather and velvet, and rich, dark tradition,” says Jenna Black. BOOKCASE AND BARBER wood, with old police gazettes and sporting journals I had the opportunity to stumble upon the bar last decorating the walls. The bartenders are dressed spring, and it instantly became my all-time favorite The storefront at 601 East Second Avenue is an actual in long, old-fashioned aprons and bowties. They saloon. As a bookworm and a former bartender, the high-end barbershop, with vintage barber chairs and serve artisanal drinks—infusing their own liquor us- place struck all the right notes for me. Advice to the customers filing in to get a trim or a shave. ing a sous vide technique, making their own bitters, uninitiated: The Bookcase and Barber does not serve But if you know the password, one of the friendly hand-muddling ingredients, or shaking each craft food, so you will want to eat before or after you visit. barbers will push open the bookcase, which is a secret cocktail to perfection. The ambiance is palpable. And unless you’re a seasoned drinker, beware of the door into the speakeasy hidden behind the barbershop. The Bookcase and Barber was a bookstore for absinthe. Or maybe you’ve read The Sun Also Rises, Walking into the speakeasy is like taking a step three decades, and the owner was planning to retire and you already understand absinthe’s potency. 22 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2020

The Blacks also wanted to stay traditional Creole corn side which in- true to the origins of the speakeasy, THE LITTLE ALE HOUSE IS NOT AGGRESSIVELY cidentally was served with one of our illicit establishments also known as six delicious courses. The unmarked “blind pigs” or “blind tigers” that ADVERTISED, MAYBE NOT EVEN AT ALL, door features an old-school knocker operated in secret behind legitimate and trap door (think Billy Crystal in businesses. The formula here is the MAKING SIMPLY FINDING IT PART OF THE FUN The Princess Bride). Upon arrival, same: The barbershop is flourishing diners knock and reveal the pass- and even runs a concierge service for WHILE YOU ARE DRIVING ONE OF THE MOST word to be escorted in to the mod- groomsmen before a wedding. And ern-day speakeasy. The restaurant is the bar behind the bookcase is still a SPECTACULAR HIGHWAYS IN THE COUNTRY. small—just twelve seats in the main clandestine operation. dining room and six at a table in the The Bookcase and Barber does bar. Seating is family style, so it’s not not advertise; the bar is completely the private, romantic experience you hidden from view and there is no sign to direct curious haps tired of frequenting breweries that are overly friendly might expect for Valentine’s Day, but our fellow diners people inside. You can obtain the password (which and embarrassingly cordial when it comes to service. were young and fun, enhancing rather than detracting changes daily) online at bookcaseandbarber.com, Maybe you’ve been feeling a little too welcome when you from the experience. Our last-minute reservation meant but like the speakeasies of the 1920s, the only way stop someplace for a beer, when all you want is, well, a we were relegated to the front room, but it had the same you can find out about the bar is to hear about it from beer, and not a high level of interpersonal communica- charm as the back. The decor evokes a bygone-era: someone in the know. Despite its covert nature, word tion. If so, this might, on the right day, just be your place. heavy velvet drapes, dark wood finishes, dim Edison does get around, at least in the press. “We’ve been Speaking of the right day, there’s a Grumpy Meter behind bulb lighting. In the main dining room, light fixtures featured in stories all over, even in Canada and the the bar to warn patrons as they approach as to the current are fashioned from old mining equipment and there are L.A. Times. We typically get a few new people in every “Grumpy Factor Indicator” or GFI. even caged canaries on the wall to remind us of the day,” says Jenna Black. “I think the secret’s out. But Mr. Grumpy Pants has a sign posted first thing mining era. Attention to detail is apparent throughout. we still have locals here who’ve never found it.” right before you walk through the door that says, “This The bar is not fancy, but in the spirit of a Prohibition —Deb Dion Is Not Maggie’s.” Since he and Maggie’s share an out- Era speakeasy, cocktails are poured with a punch—no OURAYLE HOUSE BREWERY side seating area and their doors are only a few feet one at our table had more than one! The six-course apart, he gets asked a lot if it is. This, according to prix-fixe menu ($95/person) changes monthly. Pre- Hiding in plain sight on Highway 550 in the spectacular local scuttlebutt and numerous blog postings, tends sumably to celebrate Mardi Gras, ours featured Creole little mountain town of Ouray, the Ourayle House Brew- to increase his GFI. delicacies, beginning with a single-bite open-face ery (also known as Mr. Grumpy Pants Brewing Co.) is Covering almost an entire wall, you’ll notice, po’ boy, followed by crawfish and shrimp etouffee owned, staffed, and entirely run by James Hutchinson, are framed photographs of ladies doing the splits on with bacon powder, andouille and chicken jambalaya, also known as Mr. Grumpy Pants. The little ale house is the bar. This started a long time ago when a search fried catfish, stuffed pork, and finally a lovely pecan not aggressively advertised, maybe not even at all, mak- and rescue team was in town for training and they all tart with sorghum ice cream. Chef-owner Mark Krasic ing simply finding it part of the fun while you are driving lined up behind the bar for a picture. One of the gals introduces each course, touching on his inspiration one of the most spectacular highways in the country. there, seeing that the photograph was all men and no for the dish and adding to the intimacy of the overall A hint: Mr. Grumpy Pants’ Ourayle House is next women, jumped up on the bar and did the splits. The experience. Courses build upon the last, leaving din- door to Maggie’s Kitchen, a rather ubiquitous ham- photo ended up on the wall. Sometime later, seeing ers satisfied but not over-full. Wine drinkers can enjoy burger joint (on steroids, and with more graffiti on the the photo, a woman jumped up there and repeated the curated pairings for each course for an additional $45. walls than paint) that does not sell alcoholic beverag- feat, was photographed, and received a free beer. This, Like the cocktails, pairings are poured with a heavi- es but gladly directs their customers next door. as you will see as you look along the wall, began a er hand than you might expect, so don’t plan to drive There are two good reasons to stop at Mr. Grumpy tradition that continues to this very day. home after. Be forewarned, there is no seating outside Pants Brewing Co. when you are traveling the mag- By the way, although my beer, the Pale, was very the restaurant, so if you arrive early (we did) or the nificent San Juan Skyway. The first and most obvious good, in fact delicious, I was a victim of false advertis- prior seating goes long (it did), you basically have to would be if you are a beer aficionado and would enjoy ing. Mr. Hutchinson, aka Mr. Grumpy Pants, was very stand in the hallway to wait. The hostess did come out a microbrew. Hutchinson brews several—the menu engaging and quite cordial, despite the Grumpy Meter to apologize and offered everyone a complimentary board reads: IPA, Pale, Stout, Smoked Brown, Red, reading “Probably High.” glass of prosecco, even though it was only a matter and Golden Ale. He uses local whole-cone hops, —Maple Andrew Taylor of minutes. The bathroom situation is its own little ad- grinds the grain by hand, and the rest, he says, is basi- venture: restrooms are located down the hall and out- side with a code required for entry, but no one seemed THE TUNNELcally medieval. “I don’t use a glycol-temperature-con- trolled system to keep the fermentation temperature Part scavenger hunt, part fine dining, dinner at The Tun- to mind that too much. Overall, dinner at The Tunnel at the exact level through the exothermic cycle of the nel was a perfect Valentine’s Day date night experience. makes for a very memorable and enjoyable evening, brewing process—I just open the door when it’s too Located in a “secret” spot inside the Telluride Lodge, and the frequent menu changes mean you will never hot and close the door when it’s too cold.” diners receive a text the day before with an address and tire of Chef Mark’s cuisine. Reservations required and The second and less obvious reason you might want instructions to search for an entry password in the Daily available online through OpenTable. to visit Mr. Grumpy Pants Brewing Co. is that you are per- Planet newspaper. Our password was “maque choux,” a —Lorraine Weissman SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2020 23

THE SaJn uan SKYWAY The San Juan Skyway is the ultimate road trip. Along its breathtaking 236-mile loop are vibrant alpine communities, historic landmarks, Mesa Verde National Park, the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, wild rivers, pristine waterfalls and lakes, high-elevation passes and the gorgeous, jagged San Juan Mountain Range for which it is named. U.S. HIGHWAY 160 byway follows the San Miguel River down to the little crosses over Bear Creek Falls on a bridge at the loca- SMALL PHOTOS: GLEB TARASSENKO©-ADOBESTOCK.COM, NICK FOX©-ADOBESTOCK.COM, KRZYSZTOF WIKTOR©-ADOBESTOCK.COM Starting in Durango, Colorado, the largest city on San town of Placerville. tion of an impassable toll booth on the original road. Juan Skyway, the byway follows U.S. Highway 160 The Alpine Loop National Back Country Byway, a four- (US 160) west through the town of Mancos to Cortez STATE HIGHWAY 62 wheel-drive jeep road takes off in the gorge south of passing the entrance to Mesa Verde National Park. The byway turns east at Placerville onto SH 62 and Bear Creek Falls. Before leaving the gorge, the byway follows it over Dallas Divide. There are many excel- passes through a snow shed under the Riverside Slide STATE HIGHWAY 145 lent views of the San Juan Mountains, especially of avalanche zone. A monument stands near here honor- At Cortez, the byway turns north following State High- the mountains around the 14,150-foot (4,310 m) ing those who have lost their lives in the avalanche, in- way 145 (SH 145) through the town of Dolores and Mount Sneffels. From top of the divide the byway de- cluding several snowplow operators. At this point the follows the Dolores River into the San Juan National scends into the town of Ridgway. The entire route of byway enters Ironton Park, a nice flat valley in contrast Forest. The byway passes through the small town of the byway from Durango to Ridgway roughly follows to the gorge. The road ascends several switchbacks, Rico, county seat of Dolores County prior to 1941; the route of the Rio Grande Southern Railroad. or S-curves, past the Idarado mining operation to the the old courthouse still remains. From Rico, the by- 11,018-foot (3,358 m) summit of Red Mountain Pass, way crosses 10,222 ft (3116 m) Lizard Head Pass and U.S. HIGHWAY 550 providing views of Red Mountain (Colorado) and sev- enters the Uncompahgre National Forest. Lizard Head From Ridgway, the byway turns south onto US 550 eral ghost towns. Back into the San Juan National For- Pass provides views of the 14,159-foot (4,316 m) El following the Uncompahgre River into the Victori- est, the highway descends through the Chattanooga Diente Peak, the 14,246-foot (4,342 m) Mount Wil- an mining town of Ouray. From Ouray south back to Valley to Silverton. son, the 14,017-foot (4,272 m) Wilson Peak and the Durango, the highway is referred to as the Million pass’s namesake, the 13,113-foot (3,997 m) Lizard Dollar Highway, not for its priceless beauty but for From Silverton, the byway passes over the Head Peak. The byway descends near the little town of the extreme costs of its initial construction. The first 10,910-foot (3,330 m) Molas Pass and the 10,640- Ophir past the location of the famous Ophir Loop of the 7.0 miles (11.3 km) south of Ouray, the byway fol- foot (3,240 m) Coal Bank Pass descending past the Rio Grande Southern Railroad. A spur road heads off to lows through the Uncompahgre Gorge. Just past the ski resort of Durango Mountain. From Hermosa, the the old mining town turned ski resort of Telluride. The only tunnel on the route, just south of Ouray, the road road parallels the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad before returning to Durango. 24 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2020

San Miguel River Uncompahgre Ridgway JMOWENS1©-ADOBESTOCK.COM National Forest 145 Dallas Divide Placerville 8,970 ft. Unaweep/Tabeguache UncomRpivaehrgre 62 Scenic and Historic Byway 141 Uncompahgre National Forest Ouray Ouray Hot Sawpit 145 Springs Telluride CO Uncompahgre Telluride Ski Area Alpine National Forest Mountain Village Loop Mount Wilson Red Christ of 14,246 ft. Mountain the Mines Shrine Groundhog Rico Pass Reservoir 10,899 ft. Silverton 08 16 W. Dolores River Lizard Miles Head Molas Pass Pass 10,899 ft. San Juan 10,222 ft. National San Juan Forest National Dolores River Forest Durango Coal Bank Sunlight Peak Dolores River Mountain Pass 14,059 ft. 10,640 ft. Resort Animas River Electra McPhee 145 Lake Reservoir Dolores Hesperus San Juan Skyway Durango & Mountain Silverton Anasazi 13,232 ft. Hot Springs 550 Narrow Heritage Mancos Gauge S.P. Railroad Trail Center 184 La Plata R. Vallecito of the Mancos Reservoir 491 Lemon Reservoir Ancients Cortez Colorado 160 Florida River Welcome Center Dominguez and Durango Escalante 160 Ruins Rd. Mesa Verde Expedition National Park Monument Ute Mountain Mancos River 160 Indian Reservation 550 LosRPiivneors Southern Ute Indian Reservation SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2020 25

Durango STEVE FASSBINDER STEVE FASSBINDER 26 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2020 THE AUTHENTIC WESTERN TOWN OF DURANGO IS THE SAN JUAN SKYWAY’S VERSION OF A METROPOLIS. There are even a few traffic lights on its main corridor—and town is the main population center of Southwestern Colorado, so there are plenty of businesses and nightlife in the downtown area. But the town is also a hub for outdoor recreation, with the Animas River, local lakes, and lots of great hiking, biking, and mountaineering. There are all kinds of unique experiences you can have in Durango, from the interactive Durango Discovery Museum, to a trip on the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, a day of zip lining or a paintball fight, to an old-fashioned shootout at the quick draw competition each year. Durango is the perfect mix of Old West and New West culture.



A NEW ERA Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad to switch from coal to oil This spring, before the season was derailed by the COIVD-19 pandemic, the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad rolled out its first oil-burning locomotive. No. 493 is a coal-burning locomotive built in 1902 that was taken out of service in the mid-1900s, and in recent times had been on exhibit in a Silverton museum. Over the past couple of years, the engine was painstakingly converted to burn oil. The reason for the change? Send- THE EXPERIENCE FOR PASSENGERS WILL LOOK SP-18, a 46-ton oil-burning engine ing coal-burning trains through a for- AND FEEL THE SAME. IT’S STILL A STEAM ENGINE, on loan from a museum in Califor- est in drought conditions and extreme nia. For a coal-burning train, it takes fire danger became increasingly risky, NO MATTER THE FUEL SOURCE, six tons of coal and 10,000 gallons and the Durango 416 fire in 2018, SO THE REQUISITE STEAM WILL CONTINUE TO of water to complete its roundtrip which burned more than 54,000 acres, journey between Durango and Sil- caused the railroad to shut down for BILLOW THROUGH THE STACK. verton; the railroad still needs to more than a month. Engines that burn determine how much oil it will take coal emit cinders from their smoke- to make the excursion. stacks that can start fires; oil-burning Al Harper, owner of the Durango engines are more environmentally & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, friendly, and because the liquid is vaporized when it’s through the stack. The route through the beautiful San told the Durango Herald that the railroad intends ignited, they pose less of a fire risk. Juan Mountains also remains unchanged, and riders to invest some $7 million in both converting engines Oil-burning locomotives will also cut down on can expect to hear the quintessential train whistle and acquiring two custom-built diesel locomotives. emissions because they can be shut down overnight, along the way. The railroad has reportedly already started to convert whereas coal engines have to be kept burning. For the engineers, however, operating the loco- a second coal engine. When the season finally gets The experience for passengers will look and feel motive will be slightly different—for one, they won’t back on track after the pandemic, Durango & Silverton the same. It’s still a steam engine, no matter the fuel need someone to shovel coal. Crews had a chance Narrow Gauge Railroad will be ushering in a cleaner, source, so the requisite steam will continue to billow to get some experience over the winter, manning the safer new era. 28 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2020

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BACK TO THE FUTURE Electric vehicle charging stations proliferate the skyway One of the lesser known spots along the San Juan Energy Office. The idea is to get more people in elec- our air quality, climate, and renewable energy goals. Skyway is the tiny corner of southwest Colorado tric vehicles by making it more accessible and con- Adequate charging infrastructure will be required to where Nikola Tesla’s patented alternating cur- venient, says Addison Phillips of the Colorado Energy meet this goal,” says Phillips. rent (AC) system was first used industrially. Office. “The State has set a goal of having 940,000 The Ames Hydroelectric Generating Plant, built in EVs on Colorado roads by 2030 in order to achieve There are two types of chargers: Level 2, or “des- 1890 and still in operation, powered the tination” chargers, and Level 3 or “fast charging” sta- Gold King Mine and was used to show- case the technology. tions. The Level 2 stations like those installed through the Charge Ahead One hundred and thirty years lat- program cost approximately $11,250 er, vehicles powered by electricity— to install and provide an average of many of which are Tesla, the brand 25 miles of driving range per hour of named after the inventor—zoom past charging. Some are free to users, and the plant as they travel the skyway. some come with a modest fee such as $1 per hour. Level 2 charging is brand There are approximately 27,000 agnostic with the exception of Tesla electric vehicles (EV) on the road vehicles, which need an adapter that is in Colorado, but in order to keep issued with the car. them moving, there have to be plac- es for them to plug in. The State has Level 3 stations can cost ap- launched an ambitious initiative to cre- proximately $60,000 and provide an ate a network of EV charging stations, average of 100 miles of driving range the “Charge Ahead Colorado” grant in a half hour, although some can be program administered by the Colorado much faster. Level 3 charging is rarely free and a common fee structure is 25 30 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2020

Stay & PlayThere’s never a dull moment when you at our Durango, Colorado hotel! With an abundance of fun things to do in our charming historic city, there’s sure to be an attraction or event to catch your interests. 726 EAST 2ND AVENUE • DURANGO, CO 800.664.1920 • RochesterHotel.com ONE HUNDRED AND THIRTY YEARS LATER, VEHICLES POWERED BY ELECTRICITY—MANY OF WHICH ARE TESLA, THE BRAND NAMED AFTER THE INVENTOR—ZOOM PAST THE PLANT AS THEY TRAVEL THE SKYWAY. cents per minute. These direct cur- respect and want to protect Colorado’s How The West rent (DC) fast charging stations have natural beauty. Was Won... three different kind of plugs—CCS, which is compatible with most vehi- Some of the state’s beauty exists in The Magic of the Strater Hotel cles, CHAdeMO, which is only found places that are remote, and while that is on Nissan vehicles, and Tesla plugs part of what makes these sites special, Travel the San Juan Skyway and stay, eat, which are proprietary and only support it also creates a challenge. To that end, drink and experience the old west in Tesla vehicles. Colorado Energy Office and Colorado Durango’s iconic historic hotel. Favorite Transportation Office have partnered to restaurants, bars and an old west saloon. Creating this network of charging target these areas—scenic byways in- Live entertainment from local singer/ stations is not just about making it easy cluding the San Juan Skyway—in their songwriters and famous ragtime pianists. for Colorado drivers, it’s also about efforts. Making sure that everyone can Fun…that’s how everyone wins! making traveling here more accessible visit the most spectacular and iconic for visitors. In addition to the state’s locations is a powerful statement that BREAKFAST • BRUNCH • LUNCH • HAPPY HOUR • DINNER climate goals, the objective is to en- all are welcome here. So if you’re courage more widespread adoption of interested in seeing the Ames Hydro- People in the know, BOOK DIRECT electric vehicles and to make tourism electric Generating Plant that inspired more attractive. Stations located at ho- your Tesla, and you’re concerned about Strater.com | 800.247.4431 tels, restaurants, and shops will facilitate the charging opportunities along the more business while travelers recharge. quiet 238-mile stretch of road through SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2020 31 And having the infrastructure will bring mountains and mesas and farmland, no environmentally conscious tourists who need to worry—you’re covered.

Mancos STEVE FASSBINDER STEVE FASSBINDER IT IS EASY TO SEE WHY THE PROLIFIC WESTERN AUTHOR LOUIS L’AMOUR CHOSE THE MANCOS 32 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2020 AREA AS HIS HOME AND AS THE SETTING FOR HIS BOOKS. The Mancos Valley continues a 140-year tradition as the center of ranching at the edge of the San Juan Mountains and Mesa Verde National Park. Mancos is the bridge between the culture of the Old West and the New West, with cattle drives down Main Street and modern art galleries along Grand Avenue, an old- fashioned distillery and a coffee house, as well as easy access to all the hiking, biking, fishing, and hunting that makes people fall in love with the West.

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UNIQUE UNKNOWNS Heritage orchards identify and propagate rare apple trees The Colorado Orange isn’t an orange at all…it’s a remarkable type of apple, a late-ripening golden yellow fruit with a reddish blush and a hint of citrus flavor. And if it weren’t for the efforts of orchardists like Jude and Addie Schuenemeyer, the Colorado Orange and other rare apple varieties might have been lost forever. > 34 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2019

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The Colorado Orange tree originated in the historic and its historic ties to the region. “The goal is that this They were also able to lease and nurture a nearby Fremont County orchard planted in the 1860s by Jesse orchard works as an economic development tool, a Historic Gold Medal orchard that with MORP’s help Frazier, the first successful apple grower in the Colo- classroom for the people in the county,” said Schuen- was listed as a Colorado endangered place in 2018, rado Territory. The Colorado Orange, nearly forgotten emeyer. “There’s a lot of fruit in Dolores that hits the the first cultural landscape to receive that listing. “That today, was popular and well known in its heyday. It was ground. We’d like to see the orchard be a community was our first genetic bank.” featured in catalogs and even sent along in boxes of resource demonstrating harvest and market opportuni- The couple learned grafting, pruning, planting, the state’s finest apples to President Teddy Roosevelt ties to solve the waste problem and the bear problem.” harvesting, and how to care for the land and the trees. in 1905. And in 2018, there was only They realized that it wasn’t just the one known Colorado Orange tree left. THEY REALIZED THAT IT WASN’T JUST THE rare trees that needed to be preserved Jude Schuenemeyer says that the but also the disappearing craft of how Colorado Orange is not the only endan- RARE TREES THAT NEEDED TO BE to cultivate them. They embarked on gered strain of apple in the state with an ambitious initiative, collaborating an interesting story. He and his wife PRESERVED BUT ALSO THE DISAPPEARING with the Montezuma School to Farm have found many “unique unknowns,” Project, planting eight small orchards varieties with just one or two trees left CRAFT OF HOW TO CULTIVATE THEM. at local schools and teaching stu- that they send to a lab for DNA test- dents and other groups to nurture the ing. The Schuenemeyers co-direct the trees. They used USDA specialty crop Montezuma Orchard Restoration Proj- funding to graft and grow the trees, ect (MORP), and they are rescuing these rare trees in a He said he hopes the orchard will not just teach people and the programs have been a success. “The trees are cluster of heritage orchards in their care in Montezuma about the history of the apple trees, but also invigorate the big enough to teach kids to prune. We also show them County. “Our mission is to work to preserve Colorado’s fruit industry, helping make people aware of the local “you- grafting. The kids love it; they just light up with it, and fruit growing heritage,” said Jude Schuenemeyer. pick” orchards, cider tastings, and farm stands. “We’re so they learn so much.” FRUITS OF THEIR LABOR psyched…we’ve tried to do this for years.” The educational piece means that MORP is har- vesting a whole new crop of people who have the The Dolores Community Heritage Orchard is the latest CULTIVATING SKILLS expertise to grow and care for trees. “We’re going to MORP project. The Town of Dolores dedicated an acre The Schuenemeyers bought their own orchard in have a generation of kids growing up knowing how of land in its Joe Rowell park to MORP to develop the beautiful McElmo Canyon seventeen years ago. Pre- orchards work and how to work in them,” said Schuen- orchard, and last fall MORP planted a mix of various viously, the couple worked on wildfire hotshot crews. emeyer. “We teach classes all around the region, try- rare and endangered trees including varieties with no They were always in the business of rescuing trees, ing to re-instill these skills so that people have the DNA match. This year, thanks to a Colorado Garden but instead of saving them from burning, now they are skills to do it. Colorado is close to losing its apple Foundation grant, there will be interpretive signs and preserving them in a different way. “Now it’s grafting economy…we need to hold on to this industry or we an app so that visitors can learn about each variety instead of a drip torch,” laughs Schuenemeyer. will lose it.” 36 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2019

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Cortez STEVE FASSBINDER STEVE FASSBINDER CORTEZ IS THE MOST ANCIENT STOP YOU’LL MAKE ON THE SAN JUAN SKYWAY TOUR— 38 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2020 MONTEZUMA COUNTY HAS BEEN SETTLED SINCE APPROXIMATELY A.D. 600 WHEN ABOUT 100,000 PUEBLO INDIANS MADE THIS AREA THEIR HOME. Today you can explore the archaeology of the first settlers as well as the arts and culture that still bears their imprint. Cortez also has great networks of mountain biking trails, hiking trails and terrific fishing. The cowboy culture from more recent eras is still alive and well, and you can experience it firsthand at the Ute Mountain Roundup Rodeo, the 90th annual event and a professionally sanctioned rodeo. The region also offers agritourism opportunities, where you can see dryland beans such as the unique old cultivar Anasazi bean or visit some of the lovely modern wineries in the McElmo Canyon and Montezuma Valley.



ELDURO TUCO©-SHUTTERSTOCK.COM CREAM OF THE CROP Non-GMO Ute Mountain corn celebrates tribe’s heritage, today’s farm-to-table movement By Elizabeth Guest Descending from the San Juan Mountains, the with genetically modified plants to ensure non-GMO The facility is also gluten-free. The biggest seller is landscape rapidly levels to high desert plains. In purity. The other, especially in the arid four corners re- non-GMO corn meal, available in white, yellow, blue, Towaoc, Colorado, the distinct ridge of the Sleep- gion of the Ute Farm, is water availability. In southwest and mixed—but grits, polenta, and corn animal feed ing Ute Mountain outlines the sky with the iconic Colorado, seasonal droughts can be catastrophic. are also in high demand, all at reasonable prices. profile of a Native American chief in slumber, stretched However, a Water Rights Settlement Act that passed out from head to foot, arms crossed on his chest. in 1986 allowed the Ute Mountain Farm & Ranch En- Bow & Arrow Brand’s non-GMO products cater to both mass and individual consumers. The size of orders Less obvious are the fertile fields nes- terprise to irrigate from McPhee Reservoir, Colorado’s tled behind the sprawling mountain. These second largest reservoir. This guarantee of good grow- ranges from personal to industrial, from belong to the tribal-owned company Ute ing conditions allowed the farm to broaden its efforts. home chefs cooking corn muffins to compa- Mountain Farm & Ranch Enterprise. The nies manufacturing non-GMO tortilla chips. 7,700-acre property is an oasis of fresh In 2014, the farm established Bow & Arrow Brand, Customers include retailers and wholesalers, food with 2,000 acres devoted to non-ge- their very own corn growing operation and corn milling commercial food manufacturers and distill- netically modified, non-GMO, corn. Estab- facility. Bow and Arrow’s state-of-the-art mill process- eries, and food service and restaurants. In lished in 1962, the farm strives to cultivate es the farm’s fifteen different non-GMO corn varieties. downtown Cortez, twenty minutes from the local, farm-to-table ingredients. property, The Farm Bistro showcases Ute Corn on their seasonal lunch and dinner From cobs of sweet corn that you eat menus. “The corn is available in its raw, to the field corn that nourishes livestock, up intact kernel form as well as a milled form to 92 percent of the corn in the U.S. is ge- where it is ground into various granulations netically modified. Ute Mountain Farm takes of meals, grits, polentas, and flours,” says extra steps to establish their corn as non- Martinez. “Our 24-ounce bags of wholegrain GMO Project Verified, Kosher and Gluten corn meals are available for purchase on our Free. Keeping their crops all natural is a nod website: www.bowandarrowbrand.com.” to the Ute Tribe’s traditional food heritage. “We test every lot of corn to ensure that it The website also offers a long list of is at least 99 percent GMO-free and that we recipes that suit their products. From glu- can meet consumer expectations,” explains ten-free banana cornmeal waffles to Indi- Simon Martinez, Operations Manager for Farm & Ranch an-flavored cauliflower poppers, there is Enterprise and its LLC, Bow & Arrow Brand. “Because much that can be made from corn. Having a non-GMO of our unique location, we are able to keep our corn source for corn offers a healthier choice for both indi- segregated from conventional corn crop and keep the vidual well-being and the overall health of our plan- integrity of our non-GMO corn crop intact.” et. “We are in many grocery and restaurant locations across the state of Colorado,” says Martinez. “For a There are two challenges with cultivating non- location near you, contact us directly and we can point GMO crops. One is preventing cross contamination you in the right direction.” 40 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2020

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Dolores STEVE FASSBINDER DOLORES HAS A LITTLE BIT OF EVERYTHING THAT MAKES A WESTERN TOWN GREAT: HISTORY, CULTURE, AND OUTDOOR RECREATION. There is incredible fishing, boating, and waterskiing on McPhee Reservoir (the second largest body of water in the state), and other water sports on the local lakes and rivers. Hiking, camping, and mountain biking abound in the surrounding San Juan National Forest. The Anasazi Heritage Center is a fun, interactive museum devoted to the history of the ancient cultures of Pueblo, Ute, and Navajo Native Americans, and has two 12th century pueblo ruins on site. Dolores has an exact replica of an original train depot and a Rio Grande Southern Railroad Museum and a restored Galloping Goose car. Escalante Days is the region’s celebration of its historic Dolores River Valleys, where the Dominguez-Escalante expedition camped in 1776 and mapped and logged the first record of the lands and people in what would become Colorado and Utah. STEVE FASSBINDER 42 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2020

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Rico STEVE FASSBINDER RICO WAS FIRST SETTLED AS A MINING TOWN IN 1879. At its peak, the silver-mining community had a population of nearly 5,000 and was a stop on the Rio Grande Southern railroad with almost two dozen saloons and a thriving red light district. The Rico Historical Museum, located in the historic firehouse building, documents the town’s storied past. Today, the town’s residents seek other types of treasure—vast miles of recreational trails. Routes range from short loops to multi-day backcountry adventures, and visitors can access the Colorado Trail from town. A haven for mountain biking, Rico also boasts a free public bike repair station and tire pump. STEVE FASSBINDER 44 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2020

The heart of Rico STAY & PLAY ON THE BEAUTIFUL HISTORIC BAR • LIVE MUSIC • ROOMS FOR RENT DOLORES RIVER AND ON OUTDOOR BEER GARDEN • SMOKER BBQ EVERY WEEKEND COLORADO BEEF • ORGANIC SALADS • NON-GMO CHICKEN THE SCENIC SAN JUAN SKYWAY. RV/Tent Sites • Cabins • Yurts • Vintage Trailers • Covered Wagons LOCAL BEER, WINE AND SODA Riverfront Camping • Dog Walk/Nature Trail/River Walk THERICOBAR.COM Laundry Room • Remodeled Bathhouse • Gift Shop Ice Cream Socials • Food Trucks • Fun for All! 3 N GLASGOW AVE RICO, CO • 970-967-5555 970.882.7761 Rico Mine Shaft Inn Rico Colorado DoloresRiverCampground.com An Affordable & Historic Gift Shop · Antique Store Bed & Breakfast Country Flair offers a unique www.ricomineshaftinn.com gathering of local vendors who 970-967-4996 offer one-of-a-kind home decor, gifts and furniture. 337 E Main Montrose 970.765.9322 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2020 45

Telluride GARY RATCLIFF TELLURIDE IS ONE OF THE MOST STRIKINGLY BEAUTIFUL PLACES YOU WILL EVER SEE; IT IS ALSO KNOWN AS THE “FESTIVAL CAPITAL OF THE ROCKIES” BECAUSE OF ITS VAST ARRAY OF CULTURAL EVENTS EACH SUMMER. Like many of these Western towns, Telluride started out as a mining community but earned renown for its skiing and mountaineering. Today visitors can climb the acclaimed Via Ferrata route high above town or to the top of Bridal Veil Falls (the state’s tallest waterfall), see a Grammy-award winning musician in Town Park, catch a free ride up on the gondola and hike around or zip back to town on one of the downhill mountain biking courses, eat at one of the top-rated restaurants in the country, or even watch a world premiere of a new movie at one of the film festivals. There are galleries to stroll, classes to take, and rivers and trails to explore, and don’t miss the Telluride Historical Museum, which hosts unique exhibits, indoors and outdoors. 46 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2020

ENCHAN ING visittelluride.com / 877.624.1704

A CENTURY OF SERVICE M&M Mercantile celebrates a hundred years in business When you pull up to the mercantile in Placer- shelves and walls. The old coffee counter where cus- ville, you might be a little confused about tomers used to congregate has been reimagined as a where to park—some cars line up neatly deli. To keep the business alive over the decades, the at the edge of the lot, and some just pull McCluers have had to be resilient and creative. In the up in front of the entrance and dash in for what they old days, they used to serve 3.2 beer to customers, but need. It’s all OK—the folks at the M&M are here for now they have, sectioned off from the food, a thriving, you, whether it’s a freshly made sandwich and some full-service liquor store. They had to add alarm systems friendly conversation, or you just need to grab a bottle for security. And during the pandemic, when flour was of wine for dinner. in short supply, Cindy went out and bought a huge sack M&M Mercantile is located in the historic Whit- and portioned it out by hand into bags for customers ley & Whitley Building, which was built in 1920 to so everyone would have some. “The store has been a serve the narrow gauge Rio Grande Southern Railroad staple, throughout the ebbs and flows of the economy. and miners of the San Juan Mountains. Mary McCluer We’ve adapted. I guess that’s just what we have to do.” bought it from the Whitleys in the 1950s, and it has Despite its modern conveniences, M&M is still been in the family ever since. It is affectionately known the same charming neighborhood store. Cindy’s by locals as “Mary’s store,” although it is now run by daughter-in-law Nikki and all the people who work in her granddaughter-in-law Cindy McCluer. Cindy has the store are integral to its operations—they greet al- been the face of the store since 1992—a beautiful, most everyone by name, and already know your sand- slender blonde who, despite her youthful appearance, wich order, preferred ice cream flavor, or what you are has grandkids of her own who sometimes help around looking for as you scan the shelves. Cindy says some the shop. “Now I’m like Grandma Mary, I’m the grand- of the vendors who deliver meat, milk, and bread are ma,” laughs Cindy. “But I think peo- the same ones who brought goods to ple like that homey feeling.” THESE KIND OF MOM-AND-POP STORES her grandmother decades ago. She These kind of mom-and-pop HAVE ALL BUT DISAPPEARED IN MODERN TIMES, says she loves the local families, watching kids mature over the years stores have all but disappeared in BUT THE M&M HAS PERSISTED. as they stop in for their favorite treat. modern times, but the M&M has per- “One year they can’t see over the sisted. The business formula is the counter, and the next thing you know, same as an urban bodega—a quick they’re all grown up. Our little com- stop for everything you need, from snacks to medicine to sundries—but munity is booming.” the mercantile has a decidedly rural Perhaps the reason the M&M feel. Fresh vegetables? Check. Homemade pastries? residents. It is an oasis, miles away from other stores Mercantile has stayed in business for a hundred years Yes, please. That one ingredient for dinner—yeast, or and services. isn’t so much what they keep in stock as it is how they steak, or cheese? Absolutely. It is the quintessential The aesthetic in the mercantile has not deviated take stock of their customers. “The best part of it all is country store; you can even buy a hunting or fishing li- much from its early days. It still has the rustic exteri- the people,” says McCluer. “Meeting new customers, cense (and bait) and camping gear. The M&M is one- or stone on the building, which came from Olathe, and seeing the regulars like the contractors and workers stop shopping for travelers, commuters, and regional vintage wood flooring that was reclaimed for the quaint who come in every day. I just really love the people.” 48 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2020

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UPSHOT HEADED FOR THE HILLS Adventure photographer Steve Fassbinder loaded up a llama with his bike and gear to explore the backcountry in the Weminuche Wilderness. Photo by Steve Fassbinder 50 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2020