S ykywaSaJn uan Summer/Fall 2023
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Towns Along the Skyway Contents 8 12 16 20 26 36 40 44 46Ridgway Ouray Silverton Durango Mancos Cortez Dolores Rico Telluride 24-25 San Juan Skyway map and routes Features 10 Go With the Flow Water is good for the body and soul 14 Sky Dancers Eagles soar all around the San Juan Skyway 10 18 Sasquatch Sighting Expedition campers make a footprint in the industry 22 Treat Yourself Right Unique spa experiences around the San Juan Skyway 14 28 Farm Fresh Support local agriculture at regional markets 32 The Quest Searching for the Pipe People Theatre of Road P 38 The Sky Village Visiting the ancients 38 42 The River of Sorrows 4 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2023 Support swells to protect the Dolores River 50 Upshot “I Love Ewe” by Gary Ratcliff
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GARY RATCLIFF S ykywaSaJn uan VISITOR GUIDE TELLURIDE PUBLISHING, LLC SkywaySaJn~ uan ADVERTISING Jenny Page VISITOR GUIDE ~ EDITORIAL Deb Dion Kees ~ CREATIVE DIRECTOR Kristal Franklin ~ DISTRIBUTION Telluride Delivers ~ WEB GURU Susan Hayse ~ PHOTOGRAPHERS Garry Adams, Benjamin Brewer, Alex Krebs, Melissa Plantz, Gary Ratcliff ~ WRITERS Benjamin Brewer, Deanna Drew, John Humphries, Steve Middendorp, Rob Schultheis ~ The San Juan Skyway Visitor Guide is produced by Telluride Publishing. Telluride Publishing also produces Telluride Magazine For more information, visit telluridemagazine.com For advertising inquiries: [email protected] 970-729-0913 For editorial inquiries: [email protected] 970-708-0060 ©2023 Telluride Publishing, LLC. Cover and contents are fully protected and must not be reproduced in any manner without written permission from the publisher. ~ ON THE COVER A gorgeous clump of Columbine sits in a meadow below Wilson Peak, with a rainbow above. Photo by Gary Ratcliff 6 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2023
Stewardship Taking care of what matters most It’s a big, beautiful world we live in, but like every- vigilant to reduce the threats to their survival (“Sky spend a little more time outdoors? You can extend thing valuable, it requires maintenance. Caring for Dancers,” p. 14). your stay and get farther off the beaten path in an the environment is everyone’s job—but hopefully, expedition camper (“Sasquatch Sighting,” p. 18). Or it’s a labor of love. We also have a duty to take care of our cultural maybe you just need a little “me time,” some pam- heritage. Garry and Ming Adams, owners of the Can- pering and self-care. There are some very special Consider the efforts made by the Turtle Lake yon of the Ancients Guest Ranch, honored the Pueb- spa experiences along the San Juan Skyway to help Refuge, a nonprofit group that created the Bee Hap- loan people who first inhabited McElmo Canyon by you relax and rejuvenate that are worth a visit (“Treat py Lands stewardship program to preserve the nat- creating a traditional setting where visitors can stay, Yourself Right,” p. 22). ural vegetation around the San Juan Skyway (“Na- explore the ruins, and appreciate the culture and his- tive Plants,” p. 48). Or the various conservationists, tory of the region (“Sky Village,” p. 38). And in this We are so fortunate to be here, all of us. To be politicians, and recreational groups who are joining issue, writer Benjamin Brewer went beyond the call able to enjoy these beautiful places, people, and the forces to protect the Dolores River (“The River of of duty to ferret out the mysterious “muffler art,” an things we’ve created. We all leave an imprint on this Sorrows,” p. 42). We should also celebrate the work obscure and eccentric installation that exceeded all world, so let ours be one of stewardship, of caring for of the regional farmers and ranchers who care for expectations (“The Quest,” p. 32). each other and our surroundings as we welcome the the land in order to provide the food that sustains us next generation. (“Farm Fresh,” p. 28). And despite the fact that eagle I would be remiss if I didn’t remind you that it’s populations have rebounded—in fact, you’re likely also important to take care of yourself. Sometimes Thanks for reading, to see one of these majestic birds soaring above that means taking a break from work and stress and or nesting along the Skyway—we need to remain life to immerse yourself in nature (“Go With the Flow,” Deb Dion Kees p. 10). Perhaps you need to go a little deeper and Editor, San Juan Skyway SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2023 7
RIDGWAY GARY RATCLIFF Even Hollywood took note of Ridgway’s spectacular Western scenery and character, setting the original film True Grit here decades ago. Ridgway is the northernmost entry to the San Juan Skyway and is known as the Gateway to the San Juans. Its beautifully manicured town park hosts music concerts, arts festivals, and a farmers market and its county fairgrounds is home to a great professional rodeo that caps off the summer. Ridgway has a sprawling reservoir and sits along the Uncompahgre River, allowing for all sorts of water sports opportunities—boating, SUP, tubing, fishing, and waterskiing. The community is a hub for artists and artisans, with lots of galleries and outdoor sculpture, and the Ridgway Railroad Museum pays tribute to the town’s advent as a transportation hub, headquarters of the Rio Grande Southern narrow gauge railroad serving miners, ranchers and farmers in the 1800s. 8 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2023
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GOFWITlHowTHE Water is good for the body and soul
Unlike rivers in the northern Rockies, the annual monsoons that sweep up from Mexico recharge southwestern Colorado watersheds each year. At higher elevations, these wet conditions create an abundance of lush, wet meadows of wildflowers and pristine, high alpine lakes for peaceful meditation. T By Deanna Drew he healing power of nature has long been snow. Known as the “Pineapple Express,” this weather known. After finding that people had less phenomenon dumped huge amounts of heavy, wet stress walking outdoors versus indoors, in snow on southwest Colorado. By mid-spring the San the 1980s Japanese doctors began advising Juan snowpack was 200 percent of average. Thanks people to take walks in the woods for better health. to generous winter snowfall, 2023 promises to be a Since then, researchers have proven that spending plentiful year for adventure on local waterways. time in the woods positively affects a variety of health The Dolores, Animas, Uncompahgre, and San Mi- issues, including heart disease and cancer. They say guel Rivers all wind through the San Juan Skyway. These the practice of “forest bathing”—walking through or rivers are fed by snow in winter, snowmelt in spring, and spending the night in nature—can measurably de- monsoonal rains in summer and fall. Unlike rivers in the crease anxiety, increase white blood cells, and help northern Rockies, the annual monsoons that sweep up regulate blood pressure. from Mexico recharge southwestern Colorado water- Now, we are learning that adding water to our out- sheds each year. At higher elevations, these wet con- door experiences can be even more therapeutic. Not ditions create an abundance of lush, wet meadows of only does water nourish our bodies, wildflowers and pristine, high alpine evidence suggests that it also im- lakes for peaceful meditation. proves our mental well-being. Sci- And, the sights and sounds of entists say being near blue space wildlife can further boost the pos- like rivers and lakes provides a wide “If there itive impact of your waterscape. range of psychological benefits, like Although they occupy only a small less worry and more mindfulness. is magic on this part of the land, these rivers along Using our senses, we can become with lakes, reservoirs, and creeks hypnotized by the changing sound planet, support the greatest amount of and constant movement of water. plant and animal life. Along streams Submerging ourselves in water it is contained and rivers, lush corridors of trees takes away noise, calms our mind, and shrubs provide valuable hab- and allows us to relax. in water.” itat for songbirds, insects, and an- Considering all of the health imals like river otters, beaver, and benefits, it’s no wonder that wa- —Loren Eiseley moose. Marshes and wetlands ter activities are so popular in the serve as nesting and resting areas San Juan Mountains. Each spring for the thousands of waterfowl that and summer, people flock to the pass through during spring and fall region’s rivers and lakes for vaca- migrations. Wildlife can alway be tions. Whether whitewater rafting, found near water. paddle boarding, fishing, or simply This spring my family and I picnicking alongside a stream, the San Juans offer an hiked ten miles deep into the heart of the Grand Can- abundance of opportunities to experience the restor- yon. By the bottom of the rocky, dusty trail, we were ative benefits of water. hot, exhausted, and sore from the weight of our back- Lately, however, water has been hard to come by packs. Wearily searching for a campsite, my daughter in the parched Southwest. Plagued by record heat, wandered through a veil of young cottonwoods into drought, and wildfires, for many years the region’s a small hidden grotto. Seeps and springs emerged watersheds have been withering away. Rivers have from ferns and mosses on the cliff wall to form a shal- reduced to trickles, reservoirs to dangerous lows, low stream that meandered along the edge of a small and forests burned to the ground. Tourism slumped, clearing. Here we camped, lulled by trickling water while opportunities to reap the restorative benefits and colorful pebbles in the narrow, glistening chan- of water diminished. From fish to farmers, ranchers nel. After days of immersing ourselves in the canyon’s to rafters, everyone has suffered from the region’s ancient waterfalls, it was time to embark on the ardu- twenty-year megadrought. ous hike out. But by then, we were eager for the chal- But 2023 is different. In late winter, a series of lenge: the long walk out actually felt good. Our time strong atmospheric rivers brought record snowfall to with water had restored us, physically and mentally. the San Juans. Long plumes of tropical water vapor It’s a fact that getting outside will make you hap- were carried by powerful winds to the western United pier and healthier, and that water has the power to MELISSA PLANTZ States from the Pacific Ocean. When the warm moisture replenish and heal us. Nature is the best medicine… met the cold mountain air, it cooled and fell as rain and and it’s free. SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2023 11
OURAY GARY RATCLIFF When you drive into Ouray you may wonder where you took a wrong turn and how you ended up in the European Alps. From Ouray’s incredible Uncompahgre Gorge (which is famous for its manmade ice climbing park in winter and its Via Ferrata in the summer) to the pristine and beautiful mountains in which it is encircled, as well as its quaint Victorian architecture, old-fashioned shops, and historic main drag and museum, the town has a distinctly alpine feel. Ouray has all kinds of recreational opportunities, such as hiking, running, camping, jeeping, river sports, and mountaineering; whatever you do, don’t miss the Perimeter Trail, which offers a stunning view of the Cascade Falls and the gorge. After you recreate, relax by visiting one of Ouray’s geothermal treats, hot springs, a pool, or vapor caves. 12 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2023
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SKY DANCERS Eagles soar all around the San Juan Skyway By Deanna Drew T o Colorado’s native Ute tribes, eagles are sacred symbols of strength and honor. Often associated with warriors and battle, in historic times wearing eagle feathers—mostly in feather headdresses—was a privilege that one earned by performing brave deeds or feats of endurance. 14 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2023
Today, eagles are still recognized as a symbol of Golden eagles are known they were born, then lay and fertilize eggs in the low- freedom and bravery. They are intelligent and ferocious for the V shape of their wings er river’s sand and gravel beds. Within one to two predators, ranked at the top of their food chain in nearly weeks of reproduction, the adult salmon die. all parts of the world. Of the sixty-eight eagle species when soaring and gliding, worldwide, two call Colorado home: the bald eagle and and for their aerial skills of steep About the same time kokanee salmon are taking the golden eagle. Luckily, both of these large birds of their last breaths through their gills, bald eagle mi- prey can be found in the San Juan Mountains, with op- diving and swooping in a gration is taking place high above the river. It is no portunities to view eagles in their native habitat in many display of territory mistake that the animals’ paths cross: Each fall the state parks or simply from the side of the road. bald eagles return here to feed on the spawning and or courtship known as the dying salmon. A timely food source before the cold The bald eagle is found only in North America. “sky dance.” winter months, the birds stay in the area feeding on With a wingspan of up to eight feet, it is the second kokanee until the fish are all dead and gone. largest bird of prey in the United States behind the endangered California condor. Widespread through- The state’s bald eagle population has increased out the Rocky Mountains, the bald eagle’s diet is greatly since Rachel Carson’s 1962 book Silent about 90 percent fish, so the bird is seldom seen far Spring first revealed how bald eagle and other bird from water. In Colorado, bald eagles can be found in populations across the country were suffering as a much of the state near rivers, lakes, and reservoirs, result of the widespread use of chemical pesticides. especially when fish are plentiful. Nearly driven extinct from poaching, habitat loss, and overuse of pesticides, by the late 1970s Colo- Though the grand bird once graced the entire rado had only two documented bald eagle nests. country, its numbers declined nationally due to habi- But now, fifty years later, thanks to a federal ban on tat destruction, illegal killings, and pesticide poison- the pesticide DDT and other conservation efforts, ing. Thanks to conservation efforts, the bald eagle— there are more than 117 active nests in the state. once listed as an endangered species—has made a comeback. Nearly gone in the 1970s, today their Unlike its cousin the bald eagle, the golden eagle population is stable. lives in Colorado year-round. Well known and widely distributed, this expert hunter is found all over the North- Like many birds, this raptor migrates north in the ern Hemisphere. In the Lower 48 states, more than 80 springtime to nest, and south in the winter to find food. percent of their population lives in the West. Golden ea- Every fall, the magnificent bald eagle comes down gles need a wide variety of habitats to survive, including from Alaska, Canada, and the northern Rockies to the mountains, canyon lands, and riverside cliffs and bluffs. warmer climate of southwestern Colorado for food. Adults have dark brown and golden feathers, with heav- They come to take advantage of a bounty present with- ily feathered legs. Golden eagles are known for the V in the banks of many state rivers: the kokanee salmon. shape of their wings when soaring and gliding, and for their aerial skills of steep diving and swooping in a dis- The kokanee salmon is a landlocked freshwa- play of territory or courtship known as the “sky dance.” ter relative of the Pacific sockeye salmon, native to Washington State and the Pacific Northwest. This me- Golden eagles are smaller than the massive bald dium-sized fish was introduced by wildlife officials to eagle, but still have an impressive wingspan of about state reservoirs in the 1990s for recreational fishing. On seven feet. Instead of fish, this top-level carnivore eats the Skyway, McPhee reservoir and the Ridgway reser- small to medium-sized land mammals like rabbits, prai- voir are two state reservoirs that stock the tasty fish. rie dogs, marmot, and roadkill when available. Along with hunting from the air, a golden eagle will some- Like the sockeye, kokanee salmon will end their times hunt on the ground, where it is capable of kill- lives in the same stream where their life began. From ing large prey such as young deer and antelope. This September to December, mature kokanee head out opportunistic bird can live up to thirty years in the wild. of the reservoirs into the peaceful autumn waters of river tributaries to reproduce. Using their acute sense Because the golden eagle’s primary prey is mam- of smell, the fish swim upstream to the place where mals, they don’t take in the chemicals that can harm populations of fish- and bird-eating raptors like the bald eagle. Biologists who monitor the state’s birds say golden eagle populations are stable, with about eighty-seven active nests in Colorado this year. But even though their numbers remain steady, some scientists believe the country’s golden eagle population is on the verge of decline. Because their territory includes a lot of land, golden eagles are be- coming more vulnerable to conflicts with humans. Shooting, lead poisoning from scavenging animals shot with lead bullets, being hit by vehicles, electro- cution by power lines, and colliding with wind turbines are the leading human threats to golden eagles. Ap- proximately 70 percent of documented golden eagle deaths are caused by humans, and because the birds only produce about one chick every two years, these deaths are outpacing their life cycles. Energy companies and conservationists are work- ing with scientists to develop more ways to minimize bird losses, and to ensure the eagles’ place in the wild, both species are protected by federal and state laws that forbid the killing of eagles and the possession of eagle parts. There is one exception to these laws: Wildlife officials still accommodate the Native American use of ceremonial feathers, ensuring that eagles will continue to be celebrated for their strength, bravery, and the way they represent freedom. SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2023 15
SILVERTON GARY RATCLIFF Silverton is the best-kept secret in the San Juans. The tiny, historic town only has about 650 residents, and they like it that way—they have miles and miles of ruggedly beautiful mountains as their private playground, with great jeeping, hiking, biking, trail running, mountaineering, and river running in their own backyard. There are classic Victorian buildings to explore, including the notorious Blair Street establishments, mining tours and gold-panning, music, and theatre. Silverton is also home to the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, where visitors arriving on the first train each summer are treated to locals dressed in Victorian-era costumes and the old-time sounds of a brass band. 16 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2023
SILVERTON YOUR BASECAMP FOR adventure COLORADO #lifeat9318 | silvertoncolorado.com SHOPPING • DINING • ART & MUSIC • HIKING • 4 WHEELING MOUNTAIN BIKING • CAMPING • FISHING
SASQUATCH SIGHTING Expedition campers make a footprint in the industry By Benjamin Brewer Imagine this: As the sun sets over a rugged mountain landscape, a sleek, custom-designed backcoun- try camper trailer pulls up to a se- cluded, high-elevation campsite. The door swings open, revealing a cozy, expertly designed interior that’s warm and comfortable. It has enough space to accommodate all the creature comforts, weighs thousands of pounds less than conventional campers, and can easily be taken deep into the backcountry. Suffice it to say, it’s not your grandfa- ther’s camper. 18 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2023
That was the dream hatched by cation to San Juan County by providing MEET ME AT Kass & Beth Kremer and Daryl Mag- primary, year-round employment for ner on a balmy summer evening in locals,” Beth said. “Not only does this THE BLOCK 2020. These features might seem support the work force, but we are also mutually exclusive to an average committed to offering wages above Sil- Silverton, Colorado’s foremost brewery on the historic Golden Block camper enthusiast—the backcountry verton’s average income limit and want equivalent of having your cake and to become an employer of choice by Serving wholesome wood-firedpizzas, paninis & salads eating it, too. But these weren’t your offering career and skill development.” ordinary outdoors people; they were 970.387.5962 | goldenblockbrewery.com all seasoned mechanical and industri- Sasquatch Expedition Campers 1227 Greene St. - Silverton, CO 81433 al engineers. They all asked the same isn’t just creating jobs and producing question: How do you build the per- high-quality campers, it’s also attracting SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2023 19 fect backcountry camper? visitors to the community. As customers come to visit their site and pick up their Interestingly, the team found campers, they support local businesses inspiration in the river instead of on and spread the word about the town the mountain. “We wanted them to to other travelers. The company has be some of the lightest trailers on the also worked closely with Colorado’s market,” Beth said. “We took a lot of Office of Economic Development and inspiration from Kass and I’s white- International Trade, receiving the Rural water rafting days to do that. Rafting Jump-Start Grant—the first business in requires you to maximize each part of San Juan County to do so. the vessel’s design and space. We had that same philosophy in mind during With its awe-inspiring location, the concept phase of our campers.” positive economic impact, and beastly camper trailers, the company is quick- Excited by the prospect of building ly becoming a boutique leader in the something unique, the trio got to work outdoor recreation industry. Currently, on building a start-up company and the company offers two customizable quickly began the prototyping pro- models, the Highland 60 and Smuggler, cess. What resulted was a camper that which are built to withstand the worst resembled a lightweight tank, austere backcountry punishment but can also and imposing. The camper’s appear- serve as a comfortable retreat on a ance gave rise to the company name: quiet roadside. The Highland prioritizes Sasquatch Expedition Campers. comfort and has features more condu- cive for family outings. The Smuggler, The foundling company went on the other hand, is an elegant, light- through a thorough testing process to er-weight option with more storage ca- ensure the quality of their units. “We pacity. Both units showcase Sasquatch’s started posting on all these overlanding durable and sustainable design and forums, asking people to try our camp- are built by hand in the Den, using ers out,” Beth said. “Take them out for high-quality, sustainable materials and a week, explore, and send us pictures components. “Most campers are rivet- and feedback. People loved them, and ed together, and the interiors are made we confirmed excitement from those of heavy wood,” Beth said. “Our camp- testing them out. Their feedback gave ers are completely welded together, so us diverse perspectives to work from there’s no entry point for the weather. and helped us look at the design in a The interiors are either made out of alu- different way as well. From then on, we minum or what we call ACRE, which is knew we had started creating a valuable an alternative rice husk material. ACRE product that needed to be fine-tuned.” is not susceptible to rot or water dam- age and is lighter and more sustainable With aspirations as big as the than wood or plastics.” company name, the team relocated its headquarters to Silverton, a prime Sasquatch’s craftsmanship has location for testing campers in the drawn in customers nationwide, from backcountry. They repurposed an California to Virginia. Despite producing old mining building, retrofitting it with around ten units per year, Sasquatch all the trade tools while keeping the Expedition Campers is experiencing building’s frontier-like character. increasing demand that has outpaced their current manufacturing capacity. The Sasquatch Expedition Camp- While expansion is necessary, the team ers headquarters, dubbed “the Den,” is at Sasquatch wants to keep the same located at the base of 13,373-foot Sul- intimate customer experience at the tan Mountain, which provides the team same inspiring location—no matter how with a constant source of inspiration. big the company gets. “We know every customer by name, and part of our scal- Since then, Sasquatch Expedition ing process is ensuring we don’t lose Campers has grown tremendously, that. We want all of our customers to producing nine units in their first year. have that awesome experience of driv- The company is not only producing ing over Red Mountain Pass and feeling high-quality camper trailers but also awestruck as they come to pick up contributing to the economic growth their units. We want them to keep that of the area. So far, the business has experience, that image, throughout the created four jobs in the Silverton area trailer’s life.” and two internship opportunities for students from Fort Lewis College. “Sas- quatch is bringing economic diversifi-
DURANGO GARY RATCLIFF The authentic Western town of Durango is the San Juan Skyway’s version of a metropolis—there are even a few traffic lights on its main corridor—and the city is the main population center of Southwestern Colorado, so there are plenty of businesses and nightlife in the downtown area. But the town is also a hub for outdoor recreation, with the Animas River, local lakes, and lots of great hiking, biking, and mountaineering. There are all kinds of unique experiences you can have in Durango, from the interactive Durango Discovery Museum, to a trip on the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, a day of zip lining or a paintball fight, and even an old-fashioned shootout at the quick draw competition each year. Durango is the perfect mix of Old West and New West culture. 20 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2023
Use our spacious one and two bedroom suites as your home base for all of your activities in Southwest Colorado! Live like a local in downtown Durango with countless outdoor adventures right at your doorstep! Studios | One Bedroom Suites | Two Bedroom Suite Lola's Place is a community gathering spot for Durango locals, visitors to Durango, and guests of the Leland House Suites. Next door, Lola's is a coffee shop, bar, and healthy food truck collective with breakfast, lunch and dinner options. Lola's is the perfect place to relax on the patio, plan your adventure, or swap end of day trail stories over a beer and tacos. www.lelandhouse.com | (970) 385-1920 | [email protected] www.lolasplace.com | (970) 385-1920 | [email protected] Seasons of Durango, established in 1994, is firmly rooted to American-style cooking perfectly paired with exemplary service. Our casually elegant dining room buzzes with the excitement of an open exhibition kitchen, award winning wine list and the best views of Main Street. Seasons is a truly memorable dining experience. 764 Main Avenue • Durango, Colorado • 970.382.9790 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2023 21
YTRoRIuGErHAsTTelf Unique spa experiences around the San Juan Skyway Spas used to be considered a luxury, an indulgence for a special occasion. Nowadays, people understand how vital it is to take care of their physical and mental health, and spas have become a necessity. The spa industry in the United States was a $22 billion market last year, with nearly 22,000 businesses across the country. The good news is there are a lot of great wellness options out there to choose from; but if you’re look- ing for something extra special, there are three unique places to visit on the San Juan Skyway. 22 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2023
Durango Hot Springs Pure Beauty & Wellness Historic Wiesbaden Resort & Spa Spa Salt Cave Vapor Cave There are hot springs all over the West, of varying Salt therapy has been popular in Europe for decades Vapor caves are nature’s version of a sauna: An temperatures and mineral contents, but perhaps and its health benefits are well documented, and yet underground cavern where geothermal springs none are as therapeutic as the Durango Hot Springs. it’s still a relatively novel concept in the United States. flow through, and the heated air is trapped, keep- The geothermal waters, which were first used in But if you’re traveling on the San Juan Skyway, you’re ing the room humid and warm. There are a just a 1882, range between 99 and 112 degrees and contain in luck: Telluride’s Pure Beauty & Wellness Spa has its handful of these geological wonders around the thirty-two different minerals—but no sulfur, which pro- own salt cave and various ways to enjoy it. West, but the Wiesbaden, in Ouray, is home to one duces the foul smell present in many hot springs. of the best. The salt cave is a 120-square-foot manmade These natural waters are infused with tiny, nano- space, with Himalayan salt rocks placed inside a The Historic Wiesbaden Hot Springs Spa & meter and micrometer-sized oxygen bubbles, and the graduation tower (a special type of waterfall). The Lodgings has a colorful history—from the native oxygenated water is magnetized. This amplifies the water breaks down the salt, creating a sort of micro- Ute tribes that first settled here, calling the springs healing effects of the minerals and helps to raise ox- climate in the cave, turning it into tiny particles that “Miracle Waters” and considering them sacred, to ygen levels in the body, which is good not just for the can be breathed in and absorbed through the skin. Mother Buchanan’s Bathhouse that built a structure brain and heart but also the skin. The oxygen bubbles in 1879, to the Bates Hospital and Sanitarium, that are naturally antimicrobial, keeping the water clean The Himalayan salt sparks an anti-inflammatory enlarged the space and treated patients with arthri- as it continuously recirculates back through the aqui- response. When it’s breathed in, it helps break up any tis in the 1920s. fer in the ground and throughout the resort, without buildup in the mucosal lining, increasing lung capaci- introducing chlorine or other harmful chemicals. Ev- ty and helping to heal respiratory issues like asthma, Now, the Wiesbaden is a quaint, Victorian-style ery pool is replenished with new water within two allergies, COPD, bronchitis or other infections, and inn and spa, with a mineral hot springs pool, a pri- hours. Durango Hot Springs is the only facility in the even the effects of high altitude. vate soaking pool called the Lorelei, and its main at- world that uses this AquaGen system. traction, the Vapor Cave. The entryway into the first That same anti-inflammatory response is also chamber is fed by an underground spring, a pleasant The current owners bought the property, which was triggered when the Himalayan salt is absorbed 78 degrees in temperature, that cascades over hard- called Trimble Hot Springs and mostly used by locals, through the skin, and along with the salt’s antimicro- ened mineral formations. The cave’s main chamber, three years ago. They spent $10 million to enhance the bial properties, can aid in healing eczema, psoriasis, accessed through a tiny door, and a deeper soaking facility; in addition to the AquaGen system, the resort rosacea, acne, or rashes. Additionally, the salt helps pool that ranges from 107–109 degrees. The cave now has forty soaking pools, a swimming pool, spa treat- keep the skin hydrated and youthful. feels otherworldly, almost mystical. The air is thick ments, a Zen garden, a clubhouse, an amphitheater for and heavy; it is an all-natural steam bath, and the occasional live music, concessions, a bar, and firepits. In Once the salt reaches the cellular level, its detox- heat and minerals are detoxifying and restorative. order to ensure a relaxing, uncrowded experience, the ifying properties are even more profound. A natural You don’t have to be a guest at the Wiesbaden to resort now requires reservations and limits the number antifungal, antibacterial, and antiviral agent, it can experience the Vapor Cave, as they allow visitors to of people using the facilities at the same time. help flush the immune, nervous, and lymphatic sys- pay for a two-hour soak. tems, which can be especially beneficial during flu or Although the upgrades to the resort are spectac- allergy season. Salt is also known to increase your No matter which of these three distinctive spa ex- ular, the real magic is in the water. The combination mineral levels and boost negative ions, which can periences you choose, you will leave feeling healthi- of such a mineral-rich geothermal resource, and the help combat stress. er and more refreshed than when you walked in. So oxygenation that helps the body absorb the benefits treat yourself right…you’re worth it. and keeps the water clean naturally, is what sets Pure offers a variety of spa treatments, from mas- Durango Hot Springs Resort & Spa apart from other sages to facials, in addition to wellness therapies like places. The water feels soft and is very healing; and cryotherapy, colon hydrotherapy, an oxygen lounge, there is no better place to soak it in. and an infrared sauna. But a session in the salt cave is a rejuvenating experience you can’t find elsewhere; and as Pure puts it, “self-care is not selfish.” SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2023 23
THE SaJn uan SKYWAY The San Juan Skyway is the ultimate road trip. Along its breathtaking 236-mile loop are vibrant alpine communities, historic landmarks, Mesa Verde National Park, the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, wild rivers, pristine waterfalls and lakes, high-elevation passes and the gorgeous, jagged San Juan Mountain Range for which it is named. U.S. HIGHWAY 160 ride. The byway follows the San Miguel River down to crosses over Bear Creek Falls on a bridge at the loca- SMALL PHOTOS: GLEB TARASSENKO©-ADOBESTOCK.COM, NICK FOX©-ADOBESTOCK.COM, KRZYSZTOF WIKTOR©-ADOBESTOCK.COM Starting in Durango, Colorado, the largest city on San the little town of Placerville. tion of an impassable toll booth on the original road. Juan Skyway, the byway follows U.S. Highway 160 (US The Alpine Loop National Back Country Byway, a four- 160) west through the town of Mancos to Cortez pass- STATE HIGHWAY 62 wheel-drive jeep road takes off in the gorge south of ing the entrance to Mesa Verde National Park. The byway turns east at Placerville onto SH 62 and Bear Creek Falls. Before leaving the gorge, the by- follows it over Dallas Divide. There are many excel- way passes through a snow shed under the Riverside STATE HIGHWAY 145 lent views of the San Juan Mountains, especially Slide avalanche zone. A monument stands near here At Cortez, the byway turns north following State of the mountains around the 14,150-foot (4,310 m) honoring those who have lost their lives in the ava- Highway 145 (SH 145) through the town of Dolores Mount Sneffels. From top of the divide the byway lanche, including several snowplow operators. At this and follows the Dolores River into the San Juan Na- descends into the town of Ridgway. The entire route point the byway enters Ironton Park, a nice flat valley tional Forest. The byway passes through the small of the byway from Durango to Ridgway roughly fol- in contrast to the gorge. The road ascends several town of Rico, county seat of Dolores County prior to lows the route of the Rio Grande Southern Railroad. switchbacks, or S-curves, past the Idarado mining 1941; the old courthouse still remains. From Rico, the operation to the 11,018-foot (3,358 m) summit of Red byway crosses 10,222 ft (3116 m) Lizard Head Pass U.S. HIGHWAY 550 Mountain Pass, providing views of Red Mountain (Col- and enters the Uncompahgre National Forest. Lizard From Ridgway, the byway turns south onto US 550 orado) and several ghost towns. Back into the San Head Pass provides views of the 14,159-foot (4,316 following the Uncompahgre River into the Victorian Juan National Forest, the highway descends through m) El Diente Peak, the 14,246-foot (4,342 m) Mount mining town of Ouray. From Ouray south back to the Chattanooga Valley to Silverton. Wilson, the 14,017-foot (4,272 m) Wilson Peak and Durango, the highway is referred to as the Million the pass’s namesake, the 13,113-foot (3,997 m) Lizard Dollar Highway, not for its priceless beauty but for From Silverton, the byway passes over the 10,910- Head Peak. The byway descends near the little town the extreme costs of its initial construction. The first foot (3,330 m) Molas Pass and the 10,640-foot (3,240 of Ophir past the location of the famous Ophir Loop of 7.0 miles (11.3 km) south of Ouray, the byway follows m) Coal Bank Pass descending past the ski resort of the Rio Grande Southern Railroad. A spur road heads through the Uncompahgre Gorge. Just past the only Durango Mountain. From Hermosa, the road parallels off to the old mining town turned ski resort of Tellu- tunnel on the route, just south of Ouray, the road the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad be- fore returning to Durango. 24 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2023
San Miguel River Uncompahgre Ridgway National Forest 145 Dallas Divide Placerville 8,970 ft. Unaweep/Tabeguache UncomRpivaehrgre 62 Scenic and Historic Byway 141 Uncompahgre National Forest Ouray Ouray Hot Sawpit 145 Springs Telluride CO Uncompahgre Telluride Ski Area Alpine National Forest Mountain Village Loop Mount Wilson Red Christ of 14,246 ft. Mountain the Mines Shrine Groundhog Rico Pass Reservoir 10,899 ft. Silverton 08 16 W. Dolores River Lizard Miles Head Molas Pass Pass 10,899 ft. San Juan 10,222 ft. National San Juan Forest National Dolores River Forest Durango Coal Bank Sunlight Peak Dolores River Mountain Pass 14,059 ft. 10,640 ft. Resort Animas River Electra McPhee 145 Lake Reservoir Dolores Hesperus San Juan Skyway Durango & Mountain Silverton Anasazi 13,232 ft. Hot Springs 550 Narrow Heritage Mancos Gauge S.P. Railroad Trail Center 184 La Plata R. Vallecito of the Mancos Reservoir 491 Lemon Reservoir Ancients Cortez Colorado 160 Florida River Welcome Center Dominguez and Durango Escalante 160 Ruins Rd. Mesa Verde Expedition National Park Monument Ute Mountain Mancos River 160 Indian Reservation 550 LosRPiivneors Southern Ute Indian Reservation SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2023 25
MANCOS ALEX KREBS It is easy to see why the prolific Western author Louis L’Amour chose the Mancos area as his home and as the setting for his books. The Mancos Valley continues a 140-year tradition as the center of ranching at the edge of the San Juan Mountains and Mesa Verde National Park. Mancos is the bridge between the culture of the Old West and the New West, with cattle drives down Main Street and modern art galleries along Grand Avenue, an old-fashioned distillery and a coffee house, as well as easy access to all the hiking, biking, fishing, and hunting that makes people fall in love with the West. 26 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2023
Discover Mancos! In our Brewpub or out in the backcountry, Mancos Brewing Company #meetmeinmancos COME TO MANCOS AND ENJOY EVERYTHING FROM delivers hand crafted quality beer. ART TO ADVENTURES We are home to a myriad of Handmade food menu, including wood-fired pizzas, cowboys, craftsmen, artists, with fresh, local ingredients. musicians, brewers & makers while being minutes Wines, Ciders & Spirits • Packaged Beer to Go from adventures like Mesa Enjoy our summer patio and year-round music! Verde, Phil’s World, Chicken Creek Trails, and Mancos 970-533-9761 State Park. 484 E Frontage Rd VISIT OUR HISTORIC mancosbrewingcompany.com DOWNTOWN featuring occasional cattle drives, Historic Opera House, Mancos Common Press, late 1800’s buildings, galleries, restaurants, and lodging. For visitor information Photo by Steve Fassbinder www.mancosvalley.com @republicofdoom (970) 533-7434 / [email protected] bacABkaSO&efLUTerE y 110 S. MAIN, MANCOS Downtown Mancos in the Historic Bauer Bank Building Eclectic Cuisine In-house Breads, Pastries, Salads, Soups, and Daily Specials Locally Sourced Foods Since 1997 Open for Breakfast & Lunch Menu and current hours available at absoultebakery.com SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2023 27
FARM FRESH Support local agriculture at regional markets By Steve Middendorp Between the massive, beautiful San Juan Mountains lie the valleys of fertile soil that drive the farming communities in southwest Colorado. Local farmers and ranchers rely on reservoirs that are filled with melted snow that runs down the mountains into the valleys below. The Colorado River Basin also supplies water to six other states, including California and Wyoming. With un- characteristically high snowfall this past winter, farmers and ranchers are hoping this is a sign of an end to a two-decades-long drought for the river basin. La Niña has been the prevailing weath- This resilience is crucial, because lo- Many people do not realize that nutrition er pattern for three years, which brings dri- cal, small-scale farming is the only way begins declining in vegetables from the mo- er and warmer conditions. We will likely see to produce regional food security. The ment they are harvested. Local farmers often neutral weather conditions until mid-sum- supply chain breakdowns that occurred harvest within a day or two of bringing their mer, when El Niño is expected to take over during the pandemic lockdowns were an fresh produce to the farmers market. Grocery with wetter and cooler conditions. Regard- important reminder that we can’t rely on produce, however, is sent to a packaging less of the changing weather conditions, large agricultural producers to ensure an facility and trucked thousands of miles to its regenerative agriculture principles can adequate supply of food. Connecting with destination. The lettuce on the grocery store be used to reduce the need for irrigation these small farms by purchasing produce, shelves will be a minimum of four days old water to help farmers and ranchers thrive eggs, and meat at local farmers markets when it becomes available for purchase, and even during difficult weather patterns like is vital for ecological health, sustainability, it may be a full ten days when the customer La Niña; they have learned to be resilient. and regional self-sufficiency. finally takes home that container of greens. 28 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2023
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The supply chain breakdowns that occurred during the pandemic lockdowns were an important reminder that we can’t rely on large agricultural producers to ensure an adequate supply of food. Connecting with these small farms by purchasing produce, eggs, and meat at local farmers markets is vital for ecological health, sustainability, and regional self-sufficiency. Meeting with a local farmer is the best way The choices for fresh, quality produce are to engage with the food that nourishes the body. abundant when you are traveling around This is the only chance you have to ask questions the San Juan Skyway. Take a look at the about the production of your food, including the listings below to find the best option to use of pesticides or genetically modified seeds. connect with regional farmers while expe- Connecting with local producers allows consum- riencing the local culture, art, and music. ers to take a direct role in their personal food choices, while boosting the small-business econ- DURANGO omy on a local and regional scale. Saturdays 8 a.m.–Noon There are farmers markets throughout the TBK Bank parking lot San Juan Skyway where you can purchase fresh 259 W 9th St. produce while supporting regional agriculture. Durango has a large farmers market every Satur- MANCOS day and it’s a great place to get southwest green chili less than a thirty-minute drive from the bor- Thursdays 4-7 pm, der of New Mexico. The market includes forty Boyle Park agricultural vendors as well as artisans, ready-to- eat food, service vendors, and live music. RIDGWAY About thirty miles west of Durango is the Fridays 10 a.m.– 3 p.m. Mancos farmers market that takes place Thurs- Hartwell Park day evenings; stop by to enjoy local produce, art, and live music. Head farther west to Cor- DOLORES tez for another Saturday morning farmers mar- ket with live music entertainment each week Wednesdays 4 p.m.–7 p.m. throughout the summer. The Dolores farmers Flanders Park market is just a little further west, where pa- trons can taste some fresh roasted green chilis CORTEZ or purchase some local honey. Dolores is only thirty minutes from Dove Creek, the “pinto bean Saturdays 7:30 a.m.–11:30 a.m. capital of the world.” Montezuma County Courthouse Parking The Telluride farmers market is a great Lot place to try some fresh, locally foraged mush- 20 S Elm St. rooms, local produce, and grass-fed beef; the market fills up two entire blocks of Oak Street. TELLURIDE The Ridgway farmers market takes place in Hartwell Park Friday mornings; be sure to utilize Fridays 10:30 a.m.–3:30 p.m. the composting station for any food scraps or South Oak Street near the Gondola plaza cardboard you need to dispose of. MOUNTAIN VILLAGE Wednesdays 11 a.m.–4 p.m. Heritage Plaza 30 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2023
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THE QUEST Searching for the Pipe People Theatre of Road P By Benjamin Brewer Armed with a map on my phone, Miles later, I hit what seemed to be the Undeterred, I kept searching, driving curiosity, and a next-day dead- dead end of County Road P at an intersection with up the road until I saw bleach-white ap- line, I was determined to find a County Road 31. The sun was sinking lower, along paritions poke through the woodwork hidden treasure near Cortez, on the left-hand side. It might as well Colorado. I was searching for an elu- with my hopes of finding the pipe people. have been the lost City of Atlantis. sive art installation known only to long- time locals: the “Pipe People Theatre I parked the car on the right-hand of Road P.” It was rumored to be an side of the road and crossed the road outdoor sculpture garden unlike any to take the sights in. It surpassed my other, with crude figures constructed of expectations in a couple of ways. First, scrap metal, pipes, and mufflers. From the plot was much larger than the pic- the photos I had seen, it seemed like tures made it out to be. It was a size- a small, simple space, no bigger than able, eccentric, two-acre community of a quarter acre. Still, it’s not every day pipe people, creatures, and structures, that you get to search for a work of art with evidence of controlled burns all that’s as intriguing as this one, and I over the area. Second, there were a lot was determined to find it. of these whimsical sculptures—at least one hundred different pieces. There At the time, I had only known were pipe gravestones, churches, ge- about the installation through an article netically modified cows, inmates await- titled “Creations from Mufflers,” writ- ing bail, sea monsters, cattle drivers, ten by Mike Walker in Atlas Obscura. and peeping Toms. It was an odd sight Searches on Google produced little, if but also wildly entertaining. anything, on the “Creations from Muf- flers” installation or its creator. This It was apparent that this was misnomer, it turned out, would cost me someone’s decades-long passion. But valuable daylight later on. one question lingered: Who created it? While there was plenty of evidence I arrived in Montezuma County in the of visitors and their etched-in graffiti, early evening, hoping to catch someone nothing indicated who was the creator before sundown. According to Walker, the of this masterpiece. “Creations from Mufflers” could be found at the intersection of County Road P and At this point, the sun had set. Hav- County Road 25.6 in Cortez. Initially, I set ing grown up in the country, I knew bet- out for Road P from a turnoff on Highway ter than to knock on people’s doors af- 160. I followed the grid with my phone, ter dark. I did the only thing I could think starting at County Road P and County of: I left notes on the nearby mailboxes Road 32, hoping to follow the path down asking for the artist’s name and if I could until I hit County Road 25.6. Miles later, I speak with them. It was a long shot but hit what seemed to be the dead end of the best one I had. Shortly after that, I County Road P at an intersection with returned home to Durango, Colorado. County Road 31. The sun was sinking lower, along with my hopes of finding the pipe people. “Shoot,” I thought. “I’ll never find them in time.” Though navigationally challenged, I wasn’t about to give up the search. I plugged County Road 25 into my phone and noticed a separate section of County Road P that intersected with it. This portion of County Road P was completely different from the segment I was on. I would save my questions for the County Planner later; I set out for that intersection. Twenty minutes later, dusk loom- ing, I found myself at the intersection of County Road P and County Road 25 in Cortez, with no pipe people to be seen. 32 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2023
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A day later, I received a call from one of the mailbox owners, Ricky Corbitt. Corbitt gave me the artist’s name: Floyd Johnson. He also told me, unfortunately, that Johnson had passed some time ago. Wanting to know more, I asked Corbitt if he knew anyone willing to speak on Johnson’s incredible work. He said there weren’t many people left in the area who knew Floyd, but he had a daughter-in-law, Renee Johnson, in Dolores. He gave me her number, and I called minutes later. Johnson gingerly answered the phone, and to her amusement, heard all about my assignment and my trip to see the Pipe People Theatre. She identi- fied Floyd’s son, Jay, as the best person to talk to and gave me his number. It was the longest game of telephone in my fledgling career as a journalist, but I gave Jay a ring, too. He promptly picked up, and I asked him about his father’s work, legacy, and life. “It all started in 1960 when he attend- ed school to get his teaching certificate,” Jay said. “He took a bunch of art classes and finished in 1962. He was very creative at that time and built a lot of sculptures. That started his journey, and he used ev- erything as materials.” Floyd was a constant dreamer and had worked on the Pipe People Theatre for decades. But more importantly, he was an unassuming man who enjoyed making people laugh and smile, evidenced by his oddball sense of humor displayed at the installation. “He dreamed in pictures,” Jay said. “He would have a graphic picture of what he needed to put together; it was something that came from his creative mind that he responded to.” Jay fondly remembers placing Floyd’s first sculpture in the theatre, the “Neptune,” in the pond of cold artesian water. He also recalled the seven brown goats which used to provide regular lawn maintenance ser- vices for Floyd; the last one, “Pedro,” died just last year. Jay had moved to Bellingham, Washington, in 1989. He now works as a re- pair person for Walton Beverage Pepsi Cola, with skills given to him by his father. More than anything, he’s happy the Pipe People Theatre is still standing. “If you get close to the pipe people, they’re rough. But it wasn’t that refined look; it was how he placed them in posi- tions of humor, and people got it,” Jay ob- served. “I hope when people visit it, they get a sense of joy. I hope they know it was made by a man that could laugh with them as easily as he could laugh at himself. He could put himself out there and not worry about what people said. It was his vision, and it made him and others happy.” Floyd Johnson did what he loved with his hands, or, in his own words, “God gives us all talents and beautiful land in which to use them. Enjoy your time, watch the kids, and shut the gate on your way out.” The Pipe People Theatre can be found at 37.41304° N, 108.57711° W, for those who are horrible with directions. 34 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2023
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CORTEZ ALEX KREBS Cortez is the most ancient stop you’ll make on the San Juan Skyway tour—Montezuma County has been settled since approximately A.D. 600 when about 100,000 Pueblo Indians made this area their home. Today you can explore the archaeology of the first settlers as well as the arts and culture that still bears their imprint. Cortez also has great networks of mountain biking trails, hiking trails, and terrific fishing. The cowboy culture from more recent eras is still alive and well, and you can experience it firsthand at the Ute Mountain Roundup Rodeo, a professionally sanctioned rodeo established in 1930. The region also offers agritourism opportunities, where you can see dryland beans such as the unique old cultivar Anasazi bean or visit some of the lovely modern wineries in the McElmo Canyon and Montezuma Valley. 36 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2023
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THE SKY Village Visiting the ancients By Rob Schultheis T here is a getaway beyond all getaways, as distant from your everyday world as the far side of the Pleiades, and miracle of miracles, it is just outside of Cortez, Colorado: the Canyon of the Ancients Guest Ranch. The ranch sits on a sprawling 1,500 acres in McElmo Canyon, in the shadow of Sleeping Ute Mountain. Garry and Ming Adams, the visionary ranch owners, have added a new vacation haven on the property called Sky Village. It is even more isolated, hidden away at the base of Cannonball Mesa, three miles from the ranch house. You drive up a dirt road, climbing between giant boulders, round a last curve, and there it is, as unexpected as a mirage: the gorgeous Sky Kiva and Star Tower buildings. 38 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2023
Both are ardent and inveterate explorers, guiding visitors to places only a very few know about: a centuries-old painting of an eagle on a remote crag, a subterranean kiva with a secret tunnel leading to a wood-floored aerie high on a cliff, a row of stone slabs arranged to measure the track of the moon. For years, cognoscenti from all nearby sites like Mesa Verde, Hoven- over the world have escaped to one weep, and Chaco with their architecture. of the ranch’s several rental houses, Like those prehistoric dwellings, the from the little log Cowboy Cabin to structures blend in with the high-desert the roomy Elden Stone House. Visitors sandstone and incorporate elements from as far away as Chile, Spain, and of nature. The Sky Tower, a residence, Hong Kong are drawn there by area’s has a wall that straddles a giant boulder, Anasazi petroglyphs, pictographs, and so that it is both inside and outside the village sites. building. Both the Sky Tower and the Sky Kiva, a ceremonial building, have cedar Garry and Ming, who bought the posts and exquisite details like petrified ranch nearly twenty years ago, seem wood sinks and metal light fixtures that to know every secret niche in the McEl- were engraved with shapes from actual mo valley through which Montezuma pictographs and petroglyphs found in Creek flows. Both are ardent and in- the region. Garry and Ming are deeply veterate explorers, guiding visitors to involved in the area and its people, and places only a very few know about: a their Diné (Navajo) friends and neigh- centuries-old painting of an eagle on bors contributed a lot to the Sky Village. a remote crag, a subterranean kiva Other artistic inspirations came from the with a secret tunnel leading to a wood- Pueblos, whose ancestors, the Anasazi, floored aerie high on a cliff, a row of lived all over the valley floor and the stone slabs arranged to measure the boulders and cliffs. The craftsmanship is track of the moon. There are still undis- stunning and the reverence for the ar- covered wonders out there—this coun- ea’s cultural heritage and environment try is rich with the art and architecture create a very sacred and special space. of the past. It is thrilling to search and Garry has great skill; he’s one of those scout around, hoping to find potsherds rare self-taught designers and builders or ancient artwork on a rock wall. who can transform a landscape into the truest expression of itself. “The terrain The ranch has an aura all its own. I dictates the building; it’s just a matter of took an informal poll of visitors, and all logic,” Garry says modestly. said the same thing: that entering the gate to the ranch was like driving through They are impeccable hosts and a portal into another dimension. There’s enjoy sharing their unique place with a sense there of peace, above and be- travelers, showing them around, swap- yond the green pastures, the towering ping stories. The guest ranch is a per- cottonwoods. The ranch is a working fect place to stay for people visiting the spread, with sheep and cattle, but the various cultural sites in the region; it is animals and humans are co-inhabitants. just seven minutes down the road from When one of the ewes gives birth to a the Canyon of the Ancients National deformed, seemingly doomed lamb, Monument, thirty minutes from Hoven- Garry and Ming nurse the baby back to weep, and Mesa Verde National Park is health in their house, adopt it and give it less than an hour’s drive away. a name. It immediately becomes one of the “Incredibles,” honored for its will, as My wife Nancy and I were guests opposed to the flock of “Edibles,” who at the Sky Village recently and reveled end up on someone’s dinner table. The in the experience of space and silence, Incredibles—their pet Navajo-Churro being among the ancient rocks and the sheep Quasimodo, Tuva, Chaco, Sasha boundless sky. Looking to the east at and the rest (there are lots), graze out sunset, the historic ranches in McElmo their days in peace, running to you when Canyon turn an almost phosphores- you call, hoping for treats. The dogs and cent green; above, the grey-bulk of cats on the ranch all have ultrasocial the Sleeping Ute range looms, where personalities, and visitors will find them- mountain lions and coyotes roam. Look- selves on a first-name basis with most of ing west, we could see the miles and them before they leave. miles of rugged mesas on the northwest edge of Dinetah, the Navajo Nation; it Sky Village is a sort of outpost for is like looking back through time. After the ranch—it is higher in elevation and dining on lamb, we stepped outside into sits among the ancient ruins and trea- a night of a million stars—absolutely un- sures in the hills above. The village’s Sky believable. We can’t wait to return. Kiva and Sky Tower pay homage to the SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2023 39
DOLORES ALEX KREBS Dolores has a little bit of everything that makes a Western town great: history, culture and outdoor recreation. There is incredible fishing, boating, and waterskiing on McPhee Reservoir (the second largest body of water in the state), and other water sports on the local lakes and rivers. Hiking, camping and mountain biking abound in the surrounding San Juan National Forest. The Anasazi Heritage Center is a fun, interactive museum devoted to the history of the ancient cultures of Pueblo, Ute, and Navajo Native Americans, and has two 12th century pueblo ruins on site. Dolores has an exact replica of an original train depot and a Rio Grande Southern Railroad Museum and a restored Galloping Goose car. Escalante Days is the region’s celebration of its historic Dolores River Valleys, where the Dominguez-Escalante expedition camped in 1776 and mapped and logged the first record of the lands and people in what would become Colorado and Utah. 40 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2023
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THSE RoIrVrEoRwOs F Support swells to protect the Dolores River LIZZIE FIKE
LIZZIE FIKE The Dolores River was named El Rio de Nuestra Señora de Dolores (the River of Our Lady of Sor- rows) in the 1700s, long before its name became apt; long before grazing, mining, and irrigation reduced its flows, and weeds choked its banks. In recent years, over-appropriation and drought resulted in fish dying off and made the lower stretches unnavigable by raft most seasons, leav- ing the river even more desolate. This season’s bountiful snowpack and Notably, the legislation does not in- lion acres, a broader and more sweeping runoff are giving the Dolores a reprieve; clude the more stringent Wild and Scenic effort to protect the Dolores River than the streamflow was more than 300 percent River designation; that designation would the Conservation Area. The Colorado above normal in late May, making commer- require a federal water right, which could Wildlands Project contracted a research cial rafting possible for the first time since cause turbulence with other water rights company to survey residents across a 2019. The river may also be getting a reprieve holders who rely on the Dolores for irri- five-county region (Dolores, Mesa, Monte- from conservationists and legislators, who gation. Ironically, the Dolores River was zuma, Montrose, and San Miguel Counties) are looking at ways to protect its health. the first in the state to be considered for as well as Colorado’s third district in March, the Wild and Scenic stewardship created with voters overwhelmingly supporting the In a rare bipartisan collaboration, Dem- in 1968; after the McPhee Dam was built idea of National Monument. ocratic U.S. Senators Michael Bennet and in the early 1980s, only its lower stretch- John Hickenlooper, along with Republican es would be eligible. The Bureau of Land Whatever course is taken, the efforts U.S. Representative Lauren Boebert, pro- Management has noted many times that to protect the beleaguered river seem to posed legislation in the Senate and the the Lower Dolores, because of its natural have united a diverse group of people. House to create a National Conservation beauty, archaeological importance, and From environmentalists to farmers, rec- Area that would protect more than 68,000 the species that rely on the river for surviv- reationists to politicians, everyone seems acres along the Dolores River, from McPhee al, is worthy of the designation. to agree that the River of Sorrows, the Dam to Big Gypsum Valley. Below that point Dolores River—a 241-mile long tributary is the Dolores River Canyon Wilderness There has also been some talk about of the Colorado River that traverses six Study Area, enacted decades ago by the creating a National Monument across the counties in two states—deserves to have Bureau of Land Management. entire river, which would protect a half mil- a happy ending. SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2023 43
RICO PG HOLBROOK Rico was first settled as a mining town in 1879. At its peak, the silver-mining community had a population of nearly 5,000 and was a stop on the Rio Grande Southern railroad with almost two dozen saloons and a thriving red light district. The Rico Historical Museum, located in the historic firehouse building, documents the town’s storied past. Today, the town’s residents seek other types of treasure—vast miles of recreational trails. Routes range from short loops to multi-day backcountry adventures, and visitors can access the Colorado Trail from town. A haven for mountain biking, Rico also boasts a free public bike repair station and tire pump. 44 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2023
Connecting Pets, People, and Community While Saving Lives www.secondchancehumane.org NOW OPEN Sit...Stay... Shop! A Boutique, Gallery, & Gathering Space in Telluride All Proceeds Benefit Second Chance Humane Society 335 W Colorado Ave (970) 728-1100 Thursday-Sunday 11:00 am to 7:00 pm Ridgway Thrift Shop, Animal Resource Center Veterinary Services Donation Center, 177 County Rd 10, Ridgway by appointment Tuesday-Friday & Paws for Art Gallery (970) 626-2273 177 County Rd 10, Ridgway 309 Sherman St Adoption Hours: (970) 626-9713 (970) 626-3233 Wednesday-Sunday 11:00 am to 5:30 pm Serving Montrose, Ouray, & San Miguel Counties Since 1994
TELLURIDE GARY RATCLIFF Telluride is one of the most strikingly beautiful places you will ever see; it is also known as the “Festival Capital of the Rockies” because of its vast array of cultural events each summer. Like many of these Western towns, Telluride started out as a mining community but is now known for its skiing and mountaineering. Today visitors can climb the acclaimed Via Ferrata route high above town or to the top of Bridal Veil Falls (the state’s tallest waterfall), see a Grammy-award winning musician in Town Park, catch a free ride up on the gondola and hike around or zip back to town on one of the downhill mountain biking courses, eat at one of the top-rated restaurants in the country, or even watch a world premiere of a new movie at one of the film festivals. There are galleries to stroll, classes to take, and rivers and trails to explore, and don’t miss the Telluride Historical Museum, which hosts unique exhibits, indoors and outdoors. 46 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2023
CLIMB. HIKE. EXPLORE. Telluride’s most exclusively recommended backcountry guide service. An adventure company offering exclusive Experience mountain experiences. thLeAGNRDANSCDAEPSETSof Locally owned and operated. Exploring Telluride’s wilderness Book Now at 970-728-4101 is closer than you think. www.tellurideadventures.com Located in the heart of Mountain Village, the spacious residences at the Operating as a fully insured USDA Forest Service permitted outfitter that is an equal opportunity provider. Fairmont Heritage Place, Franz Klammer Lodge offer the perfect home base for all of your adventures. Discover NOW Fairmont.com/KlammerLodge SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2023 47
NATIVE MELIISSA PLANTZ PLANTS Protecting the natural vegetation in the San Juan Mountains By John M. Humphries The San Juan Skyway ranges in elevation from 6,500 feet to nearly 11,000 feet as it winds its way through the San Juan Mountains. The vegetation at these elevations consists of subalpine forest life zone, piñon-juniper forests, and various grasslands supporting an abundance of wildflower and mycelium communities. The importance of the flowering plants growing in the San Juans cannot be understated. The region’s native plants and the insects that co-evolved with them are the ecological basis upon which life here depends, offering local birds and mammals a sustainable habitat. The region’s showy wildflow- ers also draw visitors from around the world who exalt in their ephemeral beauty. Since the last Ice Age ended approximately 10,000 years ago, the native soils and flora of the San Juans have devel- oped symbiotically. Today exist ancestral plant communities that are an “old growth” remnant of North America’s once ex- pansive native plant ecosystems. The high-country meadows are home to rare and endangered wildflowers, grasses, and fungi that extend upward to the alpine zones. The flowering plants entice pollinators with vibrant colors and succulent nec- tar. Colorado is home to more than 900 native bee species, the most diverse bee population on the entire continent. This is an irreplaceable natural resource whose biodiversity must be sustained for future generations. The current pace of dis- turbances to native plant populations is remarkable, with only 20–30 percent of North America’s landscapes retaining en- demic plants. The communities along the Skyway are the stew- ards of this legacy, and are among the few towns within the lower forty-eight states that still have intact, wild, and healthy native plant populations growing adjacent to their towns. 48 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2023
MELIISSA PLANTZ Exotic and Invasive Weeds MELIISSA PLANTZ In the twenty-first century, the largest threat to native plant pop- ulations is the disturbance to the landscape through large-scale construction sites, mines, grazing, and especially road main- tenance activities. Due to these terrain changes, the pioneer species, also known as weeds, are growing where native plants used to thrive. Exotic and invasive weeds such as thistle, toad- flax, and oxeye daisy are opportunistic, thriving in roadside dis- turbances and establishing themselves in abundance wherever native vegetation is impacted. These pioneer species often outcompete the native wild- flowers and grasses because of their versatility and ability to adapt. They do not need as fertile of soils, can handle inconsis- tent moisture, and find their niche in the disturbed landscapes. The effects of the warming climate are accelerating this process. Due to these changing conditions, the high country’s wildflower meadows need our support to maintain their spectacular dis- plays of color. The removal of the Ute Indians from the San Juans in 1881 for mining precipitated numerous anthropic disturbances in the form of tailing piles, mine adits, roads, grazing, and forest re- moval. These legacy sites form a mosaic of disturbances that can be seen today across the high country. In the 1970s and 80s home building and road widening began again in earnest and by the new millennium, with modern earth moving machinery, the size and scope of projects and their associated impacts on native vegetation had increased exponentially. Hope and How to Help Efforts are underway to raise awareness of native plant commu- nities and to nourish the landscapes along the Skyway. First and foremost, it is important that roadside machine disturbances to native vegetation be limited and when they do occur, revegeta- tion must quickly follow. Each county along the Skyway—La Plata, Dolores, San Mi- guel, Montrose, and Ouray—have weed programs that work to remove the pioneer species. Although these county programs are often woefully understaffed and underfunded, their staff is dedicated. San Miguel and Ouray counties, for example, share one full-time individual who works twenty hours in each county per week. Katrina Blair is a local naturalist who in 1998 founded the nonprofit Turtle Lake Refuge of Durango. The Refuge runs a re- generative land stewardship program, Bee Happy Lands, which works to create healthy soils for a number of towns along the Skyway including Telluride, Ophir, Sawpit, Mancos, and Duran- go. Bee Happy Lands remediates disturbed land by manually harvesting the weeds, seeding the area with native grasses and beneficial wildflowers, amending the soil with organic compost tea, mulch, and compost, and inoculating the soil with mycelium and beneficial microorganisms. Turtle Lake Refuge is a great or- ganization for people looking to learn more about native plants or support organic land stewardship in the San Juan region. While visiting the San Juans this summer, frolic forth to savor the riotous blooms and verdant landscapes. In this place, there is a tangible connection to land experienced by the communi- ties and the plants and animals that reside here. Together, we can keep the harmony and balance of this sacred mountainous landscape by not impacting our surroundings and supporting volunteer efforts to protect and reseed native plants. John Humphries is the owner of Lizard Head Cycling, and his work affords him a unique, up-close perspective on the Sky- way’s vegetation while pedaling slowly through the mountains. Over the past twenty years, he has seen the changes firsthand, and is passionate about sustaining the wild plants of the San Juans for the wonder and enjoyment of future generations. SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2023 49
UPSHOT I LOVE EWE Rocky Mountain Bighorn Sheep—males and females, rams and ewes—have horns. They use them to eat and to fight, and the locking of horns can make a terrific noise. But they can also be used for courtship, when a female rubs them against a male, or a male uses them to establish dominance over his rivals. PHOTO BY GARY RATCLIFF 50 SaJn uan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2023
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