contemporary art + design
prefaceThis issue of Sanaa rounds up some of 2017’s mosttalented and ground-breaking artists and designers fromall over Africa. Each of these creatives has mastered theirrespective discipline and created innovative concepts.They are currently at the forefront of contemporaryAfrican art, and their work has been viewed all over theworld. These ten artists and designers are undoubtedlyinspirational and influential. This limited edition, annualprint of Sanaa includes everything you need to know aboutthese artists. This issue details their creative processes,concepts and their future plans and exhibitions. You willcome to understand how they have earned their place inSanaa’s Top Ten.- Zanele Muhloli
introductionProducing this limited edition version of Sanaa hasbeen extremely enjoyable and educational. There is somuch unsung artistic talent within the African conti-nent. That is why I created Sanaa. I aim to celebrate andamplifying the work of contemporary African artists. Using elaborate and expensive materials and tech-niques does not always equate to creative talent. Thereare so many designers and artists from third worldcountries in Africa who are creating unique works fromwhatever materials they have access to. This issue ofSanaa features one such artist, Cyrus Kabiru, who makeseye wear out of recycled cans and metals. African artistsare not only creative but also innovative and resourceful.I hope that you enjoy reading this limited edition issueas much as I enjoyed creating it.- Kayla Van der Byl (editor and designer)
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FASHIONthebe maguguneal davids
geoloss17 Text by ALEXANDRA MACON Photographer: AART VERRIPS 1 Fashion
ogy Thebe Magugu 2
Thebe Magugu is a former Emerging Cre- girls in my street back home in Kimberley, ative and rising fashion designer based in the Northern Cape,” says the designer, “It in Johannesburg, South Africa. His new- points not only to the idea of innocence, butest collection of garments recently debuted at to a time where there wasn’t corruption, ugli-South Africa Fashion Week. Dubbed “Geology ness and stress as we know it now.” ThebeSS17”, this collection is inspired by a rejection Magugu look book from his debut collectionof the anxieties that are coupled with urban life titled ‘Geology’. “I was just fed up with all theand a return to the open fields of remote South pressures of day to day urban life and imaginedAfrican landscapes. a woman having to take refuge into the great outdoors and surviving.”Inspired to escape the It is an awareness of the socio-political noise and pressures of urban life and takingclimate of South Africa that moved Magugu to to the great outdoors. Whilst the concept isimagine a contemporary woman who choos- broadly inspired by a modern urban womanes to escape its pressures for a simpler life in who looks to travel to the great outdoors forthe wild. She breaks away from the buzz of solace and refuge, away from the daily pres-city living to recenter and reinvigorate her- sures of city life to think, breathe and regroupself. “We are in a state of socio-political flux. , the look book shoot features young womanAmong all the beauty in this country, there playing uniquely African games, in wide openare some very stressful and damaging events fields. The type many people played in theircoming into light almost every day,” says childhoods. It points to moments of stillness,Magugu, “I started to imagine a woman tak- self-determination, simplicity. It connectsing to the great outdoors, to escape the bur- to feelings of freedom and sanctity. There isdens and noise of urban living. She takes time enough to evoke wishful thinking and desireto recover by hiking, fishing, camping and, in a world of turmoil whilst appreciating andby pure virtue of those three acts, thinking, admiring the product and design.breathing and regrouping.” The collection is a mixture of deep bur- While Magugu’s designs are not derivative gundy reds, warm oranges, khaki’s andof outdoor camping gear, they bear signs of browns in looks described as boxy safariit re-imagined in a stylish way. Geology SS17 shirt with plisse hem mini, hiking dressfeatures details such as mountain climbing with escaping plisse pleats and ‘hiking’rope re-purposed as a fastened collar, perfo- rope around the neck and striped tent shirtrated fabrics for breathability, a deconstruc- dress. Other features are the ‘Koi fish’tion of cargo pants with many pockets and print wrap dress and a cargo pants typevibrant Koi fish patterns as a nod to fishing. multi-pocketed denim piece. It carries aThe collection reflects the rich colors of the modernity of the times, with definitiveGauteng province with warm shades of red, elegant shapes and forms carrying. It is anbrown and orange foremost. “The photo awareness of the socio-political climate ofshoot features 6 girls playing uniquely Afri- South Africa that moved Magugu to imag-can games – the games many people living ine a contemporary woman who chooseshere played during their childhoods. It’s par- to escape its pressures for a simpler life inticularly personal to me because I have fond the wild, socio-political flux.memories of playing these games with the3 Fashion
Dubbed “Geology SS17”, this collection is against women. Lisa Bonet turned 50 thisinspired by a rejection of the anxieties that week (yes, really), which is even harder toare coupled with urban life and a return to fathom given how relevant her bohemianthe open fields of remote South African land- personal style still is. Naturally it’s a lookscapes instead. that her free-spirited daughter Zoë Kravitz knows how to pull off with aplomb. She fre- It is an awareness of the socio-political quently channels Bonet’s perennially coolclimate of South Africa that moved Magugu to fashions in her own wardrobe, both off-dutyimagine a contemporary woman who choos- and on the red carpet. When Bonet celebratedes to escape its pressures for a simpler life her birthday, Kravitz marked the milestonein the wild. She breaks away from the buzz by posting an adorable never-before-seenof city living to recenter and reinvigorate #TBT last night that proved they masteredherself. “We are in a state of socio-political great mommy-and-me style long before itflux. Among all the beauty in this country, became a thing.there are some very stressful and damagingevents coming into light almost every day,” Bonet looked ever the relaxed earth moth-says Magugu, “I started to imagine a woman er in ultra-wide denim trousers that are as ontaking to the great outdoors, to escape the trend now as they were back then. She tuckedburdens and noise of urban living. She takes a ringer tee into the waistband of her jeans“I was just fed up with all the pressures of day -to-day urban life and imagined a woman having to take refuge into the great outdoors and surviving.”time to recover by hiking, fishing, camping for an upgrade on the simple white tank,and, by pure virtue of those three acts, think- then added a floppy knit hat that looked as ifing, breathing and regrouping.” it could have been borrowed from then-hus- band Lenny Kravitz, who was likely behind While Magugu’s designs are not derivative the camera. With a “frog crossing” signof outdoor camping gear, they bear signs of under one arm and a hammer swinging fromit re-imagined in a stylish way. Geology SS17 the same hand, Bonet proved that practic-features details such as mountain climbing ing safety came first in this household—alsorope re-purposed as a fastened collar, per- see the pint-size padded gear worn by a weeforated fabrics for breathability, a decon- Kravitz. Her elbow, hand, and kneepads werestruction of cargo pants with many pock- matched to a pair of fresh-from-the-box,ets and vibrant Koi fish patterns as a nod pink and white roller skates that, much liketo fishing. The collection reflects the rich her mother’s ensemble, had a ’70s mood—colors of the Gauteng province with warm ditto for the floral printed shorts and cuteshades of red, brown and orange foremost. white button down with prim Peter Pan collar.I’m a 35-year-old woman who cares deeplyabout my husband and two small children, The pants type multi-pocketed denimour families, our community, and the country piece. It carries a modernity of the times,at large. As a journalist, I often write about with definitive elegant shapes and forms.politics and social issues like discrimination It is an awareness of the of South Africa. Thebe Magugu 4
While Magugu’s designs are not derivative who’s attracted to the sculptural nature ofof outdoor camping gear, they bear signs of accessories. In lieu of a notepad, Wandler’sit reimagined in a stylish way. Geology SS17 process began at her sewing machine (specif-features details such as mountain climbing ically made for handling leather), where sherope repurposed as a fastened collar, perfo- crafted the bags’ starting frames. The first torated fabrics for breathability, a deconstruc- take shape was the rounded, trapeze-edgedtion of cargo pants with many pockets and Hortensia that’s already a favorite of stylistvibrant Koi fish patterns as a nod to fishing. Georgia Tal. “Once I had that, it was easy toThe collection reflects the rich colours of build off of it,” Wandler explains. Next camethe Gauteng province with warm shades of a roomy tote, a half-moon sac, and a minired, brown and orange foremost. “The photo bag, the last of which can be worn cross-shoot features 6 girls playing uniquely Afri- body, slung around the waist, or, sans straps,can games–the games many people living as a wallet.here played during their childhoods. It’s par-ticularly personal to me because I have fond Though Wandler kept the lines clean andmemories of playing these games with the architectural, her colors, which she devel-girls. in my street back home in Kimberley, oped herself, err on the “feminine” side. “Iin the Northern Cape,” says the designer, took a risk with the first collection not to have“It points not only to the idea of innocence, [much] black in it,” she says, adding that shebut to a time where there wasn’t corruption, was inspired by the German artist Imi Knoeb-ugliness and stress as we know it now.” The- el’s layering of like-minded tones. Think abe Magugu look book from his debut collec- white palette that combines pearl, cream,tion titled ‘Geology’. and sandy beige, or a green one of mint, sage, and olive. Meanwhile, other styles like the “I was just fed up with all the pressures Miles, which comes striped with lime and fla-of day to day urban life and imagined a wom- mingo pink, riff off of Knoebel’s explorationan having to take refuge into the great out- of vibrant, saturated hues. “It’s really nice,doors and surviving.” When Net-a-Porter’s actually,” Wandler says of the eye-catchingbuying team rang the doorbell at the London combination. “If you have a more tonal out-Airbnb where Elza Wandler was presenting fit, it’s very chic.”her brand-new namesake collection, shecouldn’t find the key to let them in. “It was a As for what to expect from coming collec-big wooden door that you had to lock on the tions (which have already been snapped upinside,” she says. “When I finally opened by MatchesFashion.com, The Webster, andthe door, my hands were shaking!” Appar- others)? More wacky color combinations,ently, though, her bold and bright Italian surely, as well as a host of new materials.calf-leather bags were worth the wait: The “Next season,” Wandler says with a smile,high-end retail giant quickly secured the “You’ll be surprised by the textures.” Soundsexclusive to the debut range, which launch- like a street style staple in the making. Whenes online today. fictional journalist Andie Anderson set out on a mission to lose a guy in 10 days for an “I’m not a person who draws on a white article in the 2003 rom-com, she did every-piece of paper,” says the Dutch designer, thing in her power to drive Ben away. From5 Fashion
classic clinginess to poor table manners, she Quick Facts about Thebe:pulled out all the stops to prove that shedding - Born and raised in Kimberley,someone close to you is as simple as display-ing a few etiquette faux pas. But in truth, as South Africawe all know, breakups are more complicated - Studied Fashion & Apparelthan that—and it gets even worse when youhave to break up with a friend. Few unwritten Design at Lisof Fashion Schoolrule books even exist, let alone written ones. in Johannesburg - He has contributed his views When it comes to letting go of a friend, regarding modern fashion andwe hesitate—not knowing how to break the South African youth culturenews. This further prolongs the discom- to publications including “Thefort, explains Miriam Kirmayer, therapist Times” and “Flux Trends”and friendship researcher. It signals the - He is interested in exploringloss not just of your friendship, but in many the disparity between mascu-cases, your shared social circle. The terms linity & femininityof a friendship breakup itself are nebulous:Should you delete them from your life entire-ly, or cordially reach out on their birthday? While you may have had childhood plansto buy property next to each other and hostdinner parties together well into retirement,major life transitions like moving abroad,starting a new job, or beginning a family canplace you both in entirely different life stag-es. Suddenly, you find yourselves with littleto talk about and a waning interest in eachother’s day-to-day. It’s not that all good things necessarilymust come to an end, but it’s crucial to berealistic about when the end might free youfrom the shackles of an expired friendship.Here, how to navigate breaking up with afriend. Once you’ve determined that thefriendship is not to broach the subject. It is of is the same as the other eats off of,but it’s that process that has happened with-in the man that changes the banana leaf. Andas we attack these problems — and I hopeand I expect that the total amount of energyused in this world is going to go from high tomedium to a little bit lower. Thebe Magugu 6
Magugu to imagine a contemporary wom- Upcoming shows:an who chooses to escape its pressures for - Zeitz Mocaa, Cape Town,a simpler life in the wild,socio-political flux.Among all the beauty in this country. While Janurary 27Magugu’s designs are not derivative of out- - Modern Art Musesum,door camping gear, they bear signs of itreimagined in a stylish way. Geology SS17 Johannesberg, February 6features details such as mountain climbing - Barbican, London, March 4rope repurposed as a fastened collar, perfo-rated fabrics for breathability, a deconstruc-tion of cargo pants with many pockets andvibrant Koi fish patterns as a nod to fishing.The collection reflects the rich colours ofthe Gauteng province with warm shades ofred, brown and orange foremost. “The pho-to shoot features 6 girls playing uniquelyAfrican games–the games many people liv-ing here played during their childhoods. It’sparticularly personal to me because I not havefond memories of playing these games withthe girls in my street back home in Kimber-ley, in the Northern Cape,” says the designer,“It points not only to the idea of innocence,but to a time where there wasn’t corruption,ugliness and stress as we know it now.” Thebe Magugu look book from his debutcollection titled ‘Geology’.“I was just fed upwith all the pressures of day to day urban lifeand imagined a woman having to take ref-uge into the great outdoors and surviving.”But you can go beyond that and the guys thathave not only means, but a certain amount ofmore knowledge and understanding, go thenext step and they eat off of a banana leaf.And I think that in these times when we fallback and regroup, that somehow or other, thebanana leaf parable sort of got to get workingthere, because I’m not prepared to say thatthe banana leaf that one eats off relationship.You can always rebuild trust.7 Fashion
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Androgynous CapesInspired By Ghana’s CoastYoung designer Neal Founded in 2014 by young designer NealDavids creates clothes Davids, DoNeal creates clothes and accesso-and accessories ries inspired by Ghanaian craft and real-lifeinspired by the people scenarios, and which respond to the demandsand landscape of of the local consumers. The Araba Belle range,Ghana’s Cape Coast. which launched this week, is a collection of 10 androgynous capes. Born: Durban, South Africa. Influences: “The LGBTI The inspiration for the collection comes community” from the fante inhabitants of Ghana, who Past shows: Cape Town lived on the coastal Cape shores amongst Modern Art Museum the crabs and batholith rocks. The townships Top tip: “Experiment and be along the coast were heavily influenced by playful. But also do your re- western styles, colonised several times and search.” Always know what adjusted each time to change. They inhabi- you’re talking about.” tants were resilient souls. A native of Ghana’s Cape Coast is flexible by nature, beautifully17 Fashion weird and stylish, says the designer of the characters in his lookbook. “There is togetherness, shyness and bliss,” says Davids. “They consider them- selves minimal and earthly with a subtle twist of style.” In the new Araba Belle col- lection explores the aftermath of colonial infiltration on the Cape Coast, also known as the Cabo Corso. The colours are interpreta- tions of the sea crabs and white rock and the feel is tribal. The earthy tones of orange, dull green, brown and dark purple also reflect the landscape the coastal Cape shores amongst the crabs and batholith rocks. The townships along the coast were heavily influenced by western styles, colonized several times and adjusted each time to change. They inhabi- tants were resilient souls.
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The proposal was a dream, says Mar- festive celebration, and only their familiesgherita. Over Easter, Gerardo drove me to served as witnesses. “My aunt Margherita, whoParco Virgiliano. He talked about the love I am named after, has actually been a nun therewe were experiencing and the miracle that all of her life,” says the bride. For this event, theour encounter had been. Then he asked me bride slipped into a dress designed by her friend[if I wanted to marry him], and I immedi- Caterina Nelli, the owner of a Roman boutiqueately said. We’ve always known that we are called Bomba. “The look is typical of the latethe loves of each other’s lives ever since we 800s—a sort of dirndl—in Abruzzo, the regionstarted dating. It has been magical! of Italy where I am from,” she explains. “We chose an off-white canvas and used two layers What inspired this collection? Before of the finest gauze of linen for the veil and thethey made a public announcement of their apron over the skirt.” For jewelry, she only woreengagement, Gerardo drove his motorcycle a pair of diamond studs—a gift from Gerardo’sMargherita’s father’s home, where he offi- mother—and Margherita’s dear friend Giovan-cially asked for her hand.Once the planning ni Pirri did her makeup, ensuring she looked asprocess started, Margherita was certain about natural as possible.where she wanted to get married. I droveGerardo to my special place—an immense Edun, the socially minded label founded byand magical lowland under the Gran Sasso Ali Hewson in 2005, was born as an organics-fo-“Our aesthetic is all about respecting the place and its inhabitants. We want to remain authentic.”mountain, where I grew up. It’s filled with cused collection and both Sharon Wauchob andcows, horses, and nature,” she says. “We Danielle Sherman have sat in the creative direc-drove there at sunset with a bottle of wine tor chair. Throughout its several incarnations,and two glasses. Edun has remained committed to ethically pro- ducing its collections in Africa and encouraging When they arrived, the sun was going sustainable trade there, but it’s only in the lastdown, and countless cows and sheep were year or so that the brand has made its relation-grazing in the fields. Then and there, they ship with the continent so explicit. “We weredecided this bucolic setting would be the too subtle about our inspiration in the past,”spot for their wedding. “Our aesthetic was Hewson says.all about respecting this place and its inhab-itants,” says Margherita, who planned the To redress that, the design team that tookwedding herself after years honing her skills over after Sherman’s exit in early 2016 makesthrough the event and production work she regular trips to Africa from its home base in Newdoes with her agency. We always believed York—it’s currently in Burkina Faso, for exam-that our love and the love of our family and ple. On its July trip to Kenya this year, the teamfriends were the only necessary ingredients invited South African director Adriaan Louw tofor a perfect wedding, and they were.”The tag along as they visited the metalsmith whoreligious ceremony took place in a monas- creates the handles of the label’s whipstitchedtery on Thursday, two days before their more mini tote, and many other artisans besides19 Fashion
fantasies of women with superpowers, from What happens next is familiar, as the oldWonder Woman to Buffy, have long been order—also known as the men of the world—regarded and critiqued through the prism of tries to get a grasp on the sudden distur-feminist politics. bance of the usual way of things. Alderman reminds us of how power tries to consolidate The Power takes this typical model, in itself during an insurrection: in families, inwhich the extraordinary abilities of one or schools, in government, in the media. Likea few women are generally anomalous, and the hanged women of Salem, those discov-pushes it to its darkest imaginative limits. ered with “the power” are called witches,When Neil Armon’s novel begins, in our con- rounded up, brought to jail, and consideredtemporary times but thousands of years in for extermination. Terrifyingly lifelike men’shis past, a surprising new physical ability in rights groups pop up on Internet forums,young women (typically teenagers) spreads as peddling conspiracy theories.quickly as a viral video, simultaneously awak-ened in girls around the world. This power, an That’s where Margot Cleary comes in,electricity gathered in a physical organ con- through whom Alderman offers up an imag-nected to the collarbone called a “skein,” is ined female rule of law. A Massachusettscoursing through their bodies. With the touch mayor, cool-headed but fierce, she concealsof a fingertip, or through water, they can shock her skein (once it is discovered that young.another person. As is soon discovered, they women can awaken it in their elders), andcan torture and kill, too. rises through the political first in public. office to defend the girls. Alderman knows exactly how seductivethis idea is for those of us on the losing sideof the world’s prevailing gender hierarchy,and spends the first hundred pages or so ofNeil Armon’s novel masterfully indulging herreader. Through alternating dispatches fromthe perspective of several characters aroundthe globe, we can see ourselves in a multi-tude of familiar situations, with dangers andthreats that, instead of submitting to, we’reable to repel. They range from everydayharassment—in a convenience store in Nige-ria, a man asks a woman to smile before shezaps him—to mortal combat: Allie, a biracialfoster kid in a sexually abusive home in theSouth, is terrorized by her white foster par-ents before she is able to kill her rapist as heis assaulting her; Roxy, the estranged daugh-ter of a London mob boss, kills her mother’smurderers, and then some. It is revenge porn,turned inside out. Neal Davids 20
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PHOTOGRAPHYmario macilaukristen-lee moolmanjim chuchu
Mario MacilauThe Street Child WhoBecame a Top PhotographerMario Macilau was 14 andliving on the streets of Maputo,the capital of Mozambique, whenhe got his hands on a camera.He taught himself to use it - and12 years later he was holding asolo exhibition in Lisbon. Here heexplains how he snapped hisway out of poverty.25 Photography
As a boy, I dreamed of becoming a journalist. But then Igot caught up with day-to-day troubles. When your lifeis full of worry it is like the future does not exist. When Iwas about seven, my father left our home in a townshipnear Maputo and traveled to South Africa to look for work.I was older than my sisters and had to help bring in somemoney. So I started to take my mother's biscuits into townto sell in the market. I got into doing “When I was about 14, I borrowed a friend’s camera. Iodd jobs in the market - washing peo- started to take photographs of my surroundings, docu-ple's cars and helping to carry their menting people from the townships as they travelled tobags. Instead of going home, I often the city to sell their things.”slept overnight in the market withmy friends. It wasn’t very safe. We had nowhere to keepanything, so we stole from one another. I got into somebad habits - minor criminality, but it was a question ofsurvival. Dog eat dog. My mother tried several times tosend me to school but she just couldn’t afford the fees.But all this time I was learning - I read books, and throughvolunteering with NGOs I learned English.When I was about 14, I borrowed a friend’s camera. Istarted to take photographs of my surroundings, docu-menting people from the townships as they travelled tothe city to sell their things. They were black-and-whitephotos, which I developed in a darkroom I made in mymother’s house. I was teaching myself how to do things,practising whenever I could, but it was difficult for me topay for the film and the chemicals.My favourite photo-graph was taken near the township where I grew up earlyone morning. It was of a woman walking into town to sellcassava. She had her back to the camera and it was raining.That photo is long gone - I didn’t keep any of my earlywork. That’s because it wasn’t really “work”, just some-thing I did for my own pleasure. I had no thought of mak-ing a career in photography. Then one day in 2007, whenI was about 23, a guy I knew brought a camera to me. Itwas a Nikon FM2, a film camera. He had been given it bythe Portuguese family he worked for, but he had no ideahow to use it so he thought he would sell it to me. I had nomoney, but my mother had recently got her first mobilephone, which she had given me because I was the bread-winner. So I gave him that and he gave me the camera. Mario Macilau 26
It was very difficult for me to tell my mother what I’d Text by MARIO MACILAUdone. I said that I had been assaulted. Around this time, my Photographer: MARIO MACILAUfriends told me about a way to communicate with peopleoutside the country - it was the fastest communication pos-sible, and it was free. It was the internet. So we used to go tothe library and log on to different chat rooms and networks.And I learned how to create a blog, and I posted my photosonline. I started to get positive feedback, and eventually Iwas invited to take part in exhibition. I managed to get on anexchange programme for young people to Vancouver in Can-ada. While I was there, I went to lots of photo exhibitions,and I taught photography in an elementary school. It was inCanada that I had my first solo exhibition - the standard wasnot very high, but it was a useful. It was after I returned to Mozambique that I started toreally think about turning pro. I picked up some work as afixer for foreign photographers who were coming to docu-ment the changes in my country. For those who did hear her speech to the World Assem-bly for Women, Trump said that sexual harassment in theworkplace “can never be tolerated,” and that “all too often,our workplace culture fails to treat women with appropriaterespect.” That statement provoked some outrage, consider-ing that her father, President Donald Trump, was recordedsaying about women: “Grab ’em by the pussy. [When you’rea star] you can do anything.” Wouldn’t zero tolerance meanthat a man who has espoused a gross misunderstanding ofconsent, and against whom some 12 women have allegedsexual harassment, should be barred from the highest officeof the United States? Ivanka’s exploitative, hollow toutingof feminism continues to wear thin, even on the other sideof the world. A survey last month found that less than 25percent of the Japanese population believes that PresidentTrump will “do the right thing in world affairs.” Why wouldIvanka be any different? Perhaps the attendance was low due to another area ofdisconnect between Ivanka’s messaging and her actions.Trump, whose clothing brand has factories in Indonesiaaddressed her father’s proposed tax changes, which sheclaimed would “put more money back in their pockets.27 Photography
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TakingSoweto Styleto the Streetsof QueensPhotographer, Kristin-Lee Moolman, is depicting Africa ina positive light, away from the tired and colonial Westernclichés. Her work represents what Africa is now, there’sno filter to it, no Photoshop. She heads to the New Yorkborough for a new photo series.Text by GABRIELLA PINTOPhotographer: KRISTIN-LEE MOOLMANStylist: IB KAMARA31 Photography
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Kristin-Lee Moolman is at the forefront of season she went to Soweto, the townshipcapturing New Africa – that is to say, depict- of her native Johannesburg, this time sheing the continent in a positive light, away headed to the New York borough of Queensfrom the tired and colonial Western clichés. to “solidify (the brand’s) connection between“Kristin’s work represents what Africa is New York and Africa.”now, there’s no filter to it, no Photoshop,”said one of her collaborators, London-based Dubbed “Geology SS17”, this collec-stylist Ib Kamara in a recent interview with tion is inspired by a rejection of the anx-Dazed. “She’s an African woman telling an ieties that are coupled with urban lifeAfrican story.” and a return to the open fields of remote South African landscapes instead. It is an Continuing with their collaborating with awareness of the socio-political climate ofthe photographer, Edun (the brand co-found- South Africa that moved Magugu to imag-ed by Bono which promotes trade in Africa) ine a contemporary woman who choosesenlisted Moolman to create a photo series to escape its pressures for a simpler life infor their SS17 campaign to. While last sea- the wild. She breaks away from the buzzson she went to Soweto, the township of her of city living to recenter and reinvigoratenative Johannesburg, this time she headed to herself. “We are in a state of socio-po-the New York borough of Queens to “solidify litical flux. Among all the beauty in this(the brand’s) connection between New York country, there are some very stressfuland Africa.”Here, she and Dazed contributing and damaging events coming into lightfashion editor Haley Wollens shot three girls almost every day,” says Magugu, “I start-– Amelia, Imade and Somalia – modelling ed to imagine a woman taking to the greatEdun’s 70s-style collection in different loca- outdoors, to escape the burdens and noisetions around the neighbourhood. The visu- of urban living. She takes time to recov-als were, according to Moolman, inspired by er by hiking, fishing, camping and, byblack screen sirens from the 70s–“The core pure virtue of those three acts, thinking,idea of this Edun campaign worked around breathing and regrouping.” While Magu-finding and celebrating Edun muses–while gu’s designs are not derivative of outdoorsubtly paying homage to iconic American camping gear.signs of it reimagined in aactresses like Pam Grier, Teresa Graves, stylish way. Geology SS17 features detailsJeanne Bell and the great Tamara Dobson,” such as mountain climbing rope repur-she explains. posed as a fastened collar, perforated fabrics for breathability, a deconstruction of cargo Moolman also created a film – a lo-fi, pants with many pockets and vibrant Koione-minute short which sees Amelia, Imade fish patterns as a nod to fishing. The collec-and Somalia pose in a hair salon and out- tion reflects the rich colours of the Gautengside on the street, and drive around in a 70s province with warm shades of red, brownsportscar. Continuing with their collaborat- and orange foremost. Serena Williams is aing with the photographer, Edun (the brand powerful woman. The tennis superstar hasco-founded by Bono which promotes trade in been dominating the court for more thanAfrica) enlisted Moolman to create a photo two decades (and currently holds the recordseries for their SS17 campaign to. While last33 Photography
for the most Grand Slam wins in the Open Obamas), she realized she needed to make aera). But time and time again, her emotional change. “I had been lucky enough to receivestrength has transcended her athletic prow- some critical acclaim and the recognitioness. Williams has frequently spoken frankly from my chef peers, and it all seemed to beabout how she and other black athletes are happening just as I had dreamed,” explainsperceived, including in a recent interview the chef, who helmed Chicago’s Spiaggiawith Vogue. And now, the new mother has before becoming executive chef at New York’sreleased a poignant and personal letter, famed A Voce restaurants. “But my hours hadaddressed to her own mom. Williams post- increased, my responsibility had increased,ed the letter to her mother on Reddit earlier and the 12- to 14-hour workdays had takentoday. (Williams’s fiancé and the father of a toll emotionally and physically. I was oftenher daughter, Alexis Ohanian, is a cofounder of absent at family occasions, it was difficultthe website.) She also shared part of the letter to keep up with friends and I realized that Ion Instagram, with a diptych image of herself almost always felt torn. I’d developed jointand her new daughter, Alexis Olympia. problems, shoulder issues, back issues, and suffered from a general lack of taking care of “Dear Mom,” Williams began, “You are myself.” So, at age 42, Robbins did somethingone of the strongest women I know. I was no one expected: She quit A Voce to take somelooking at my daughter, and she has my arms much-needed time off.and legs! My exact same strong, muscular,powerful, sensational arms and body.” Wil- This self-imposed hiatus—and the pro-liams goes on to discuss her own treatment cess of rediscovering herself, regaining herthroughout her career, writing, “It has been health, and finally building a balanced life—said I don’t belong in Women’s sports—that forms the basis for Robbins’s new book,I belong in Men’s—because I look stronger Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Life! Recipes andthan many other women do. (No, I just work Adventures from My Home Kitchen, outhard and I was born with this badass body today from Rizzoli. One-part cookbook andand proud of it.) But mom, I’m not sure how one-part memoir, the 220-page hardcoveryou did not go off on every single reporter, chronicles everything from Robbins’s child-person, announcer and quite frankly, hater, hood in Connecticut.who was too ignorant to understand the pow-er of a black woman.” “What does success Upcoming Exhibitions:mean if you don’t have the time to enjoy it? Gallery MOMO, Johannesberg, No-If you work 100 hours in six days? If you’re vember 20too tired to take advantage of your one day Goodman Gallery, Johannesberg,off a week?” These are some of the ques- December 14tions that Chef Missy Robbins found her- MAC Gallery, London, January 19self asking, when, after 22 years of workingat some of the country’s most prestigiousrestaurants and earning countless accolades(including two Michelin Stars, three Ris-ing Star Awards, and the admiration of the Kristen-Lee Moolman 34
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MysticalInvocationsArtist Jim Chuchu takes us on profound and dizzying journeys of psycho-spiritual time travel,spanning distant African pasts and potential African futuresText by: MARISSA MILLERPhotographer: JIM CHUCHUThe Smithsonian National Museum of Afri- suggesting the continuous struggle of eachcan Art is the first institution to acquire the new generation as they seek self-definitiondeeply personal and visually mesmerizing within the traditions and expectations intovideo projections Invocation: The Severance which they were born. The careful negoti-of Ties (2015) and Invocation: Release (2015) ation between self-definition and societalby versatile multimedia artist Jim. expectations propel this two-part video work from the Nairobi-based artist. Chuchu is the The careful negotiation between self-defi- central subject of both films. In Invocation:nition and societal expectations propel this The Severance of Ties, Chuchu’s body spinstwo-part video work from the Nairobi-based and splits as he struggles to define himselfartist. Chuchu is the central subject of both in relation to history, country, and otherfilms. In Invocation: The Severance of Ties, universal human.Chuchu’s body spins and splits as he strugglesto define himself in relation to history, coun- The phrases “This is not your name” andtry, and other universal human categories. “I am not your son” flash across the screenThe phrases “This is not your name” and “I and are intoned rhythmically to the accom-am not your son” flash across the screen and panying soundtrack composed by the artist.are intoned rhythmically to the accompanying In Invocation: Release, the artist unfolds,soundtrack composed by the artist. In Invo- exhales, and appears to accept the self he hascation: Release, the artist unfolds, exhales, become in the present and for the future.and appears to accept the self he has becomein the present and for the future. Both vid- Jim Chuchu is an exceptional multi-dis-eos draw upon imagery from global religions, cilplinary artist living and working in Nairo-like Hinduism, as well as the transforma- bi, Kenya. His range of work includes films,tional actions of initiation rites practiced by photography and music. Chuchu directed hisdiverse communities across the vast African first short film, Homecoming and premieredcontinent. The two films loop repeatedly, at 2013 Durban International Film followed by screening at Toronto Film Festival, Santa41 Photography
Barbara international Film festival and a few a Hollywood leading man. Four years later, heother Film festivals. His photographic series is one. Indeed, his striking blend of live-wirePagans envision a reconstruction of future- physicality, down-home wholesomeness,past anonymous African Deities and attempts and wide-ranging gifts as an actor has peo-to reconstruct pre-colonial religious practices ple asking if Jordan is a new kind of star forin Africa.Chuchu takes us on other profound the millennial era.“Mike is very ambitious,”and dizzying journeys of psycho-spiritual time says MTV host Sterling “Steelo” Brim, whomtravel, spanning distant African pasts. Jordan calls his alter ego—they’ve been best friends since meeting at age twelve on the African futures. In so doing he remixes the set of a Keanu Reeves movie. “He wants topopular reli-gious experience of spirit posses- go from being an A-lister to a superstar to asion—the penetration of the hu-man body, at legend. A lot of people in the industry looktimes willful, at times unbidden, by the vast, at skin color and say, ‘He’s the next Denzelinvisible forces of the universe. Spiritual pres- Washington’ or ‘the next Will Smith.’ Mikeences are summoned into the body of the nov- thinks he could be the next Tom Hanks.”ice through dance, music, chanting, masking That is, the 30-year-old actor doesn’t aspireand other disciplines. The initial experience of to be a “crossover” black star but rather, likepossession, many devo-tees explain, is often Hanks, to be viewed as the very exemplar ofterrifying, experienced as a kind of dreadful, the things we love about American culture—incapacitating illness or sense of freefall. good humor, instinctive decency, and an inner grit. “I grew up in a tough neighborhood,”says Michael B. Jordan, the actor with the One of his great champions is Kevin Tsuji-preternaturally sweet smile. “There were hara, the chairman and CEO of Warner Bros.,lots of drugs, lots of gangs, lots of pitfalls who came to know and admire Jordan whenwherever you stepped. I love Newark, but it the actor starred in 2015’s Creed. “Michael’swas easy to get caught up in the wrong situ- got likability,” he says, referring to both hisation. You know, when you come from very persona and his range. Yet it’s the compel-humble beginnings, you always have that ling paradox of Jordan’s career that he isn’tfear that everything could go away at any taking the safe route to mainstream screen-moment.”As it turned out, this fear found icon status. He’s made his name doing workexpression in his breakthrough role in Ryan charged with racial and political significanceCoogler’s Oakland-set Fruitvale Station, the deeply rooted in a sense of place—includ-Sundance-winning 2013 art-house hit about ing the crime-riddled Baltimore of The Wire22-year-old Oscar Grant III, a real-life Afri- (where he played the beloved Wallace), thecan-American father who, though unarmed, small-town Texas of Friday Night Lightswas fatally shot in the back by a transit offi- (where he played troubled football star Vincecer. Not only did his performance prove that Howard), and the blue-collar PhiladelphiaJordan could carry a movie, it established him of Creed. In that 2015 hit, the story of theas an actor whose work is bound to our his- world’s best-loved white boxer, Sylves-torical moment. Black Lives Matter was born ter Stallone’s Rocky Balboa, was reorientedthe same year the film came out.At the time, toward Adonis Creed, an African-American.Jordan told me he was planning on becoming Jim Chuchu 42
Three years ago, model Marley Parker got ahold of her first pair of decks and began flex-ing her eclectic taste in music. Today, at just18 years old, the born-and-raised New Yorkertends to the ones and twos professionally asDJ She Marley Marl, riffing off the stage nameof Marlon Williams, the legendary hip-hopfigure who was famously name-checked inNotorious B.I.G.’s “Juicy.” Already known fordeftly blending different music genres, fromacid house to underground trap to Texas rap,Parker has also captured attention for herhead-swiveling beauty look. Most recently, inRihanna’s Fenty Beauty campaign, which isfitting considering that like Bad Gal RiRi, shecan pull off bold statements, like shockingneon eyeshadow or holographic highlighter,with aplomb. “I’m a visual person, so [I treat]my face and body like a canvas,” she explains.Her one rule when it comes to makeup? “Mylip gloss always has to be poppin’,” she says,adding that her go-to is a clear coconut for-mula she picks up from beauty supply stores. No matter what the vibe is, Parker’s lookorbits around her signature halo of fluffy spi-rals. “Afros are powerful and magical,” shesays. “I love my curls.” She tends to her hairmeticulously, only washing it two to threetimes a week to maintain its natural oils,while remaining strict about what productsshe uses to treat and style it. “I try to be super43 Photography
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