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RED CENTRE HOT Central Australia lies at the crossroads of the continent for West Australians heading east. Once in the heart of Australia there’s plenty of opportunity to get a bit of dirt under the wheels and visit a few less frequented spots that dot this vast area; Ron and Viv take you off the beaten track. On the Owen Spring Reserve track.

SPOTS Western 4W Driver #106 151

ver the course of the Water-side Camp at the Finke 2 Mile. last couple of decades we’ve poked our noses Waterhole and Hugh Gorge.There are a couple of tricky spots along these tracks Odown most of the tracks especially if you are towing a camper trailer or similar, but the rewards are open to the public in Central well worthwhile with some excellent Australia and one thing we’ve bush camps along the upper reaches of learnt is there is so much to the Hugh River. see and experience you’ll Back on the blacktop and again heading never see it all in just one west, if you head beyond the Glen or two trips. Or maybe in a Helen Resort you’ll lose the bitumen lifetime! and most of the tourists and you can find an excellent bush camp on the Far Western Macs The Western MacDonnell Ranges are one of the great tourist attractions of Central Australia and are easily reached from Alice Springs on a bitumen road. Still, while the western Macs are well and truly on the tourist agenda, there are a few spots only visited by those willing to use their 4WD as they were designed to be used and to scramble a wheel or two. The first gem can be found about 55km west of Alice where a signposted track leads off the blacktop to Birthday Mt Sonder from the Finke River Camp. 152 Western 4W Driver #106

Roma Gorge is a great spot for birdlife and Aboriginal art. Finke River at what is known as the that make this spot such a Finke 2-Mile. pleasant interlude to your The sandy access track leaves the exploration of the area. From bitumen just east of the crossing over a nearby lookout you’ll get the Finke River and wanders along great views of Mt Sonder the bank of the wide stream for some (catch it at sunrise) and it’s kilometres. Sandier tracks head down just a short drive to Redbank to some small pleasant sites tucked Gorge.There’s camping out on just above the long waterhole and the access road to Redbank some are even shaded by tall gums Gorge, but they are pretty ho- hum while the narrow cleft of the gorge is best explored on a hot day with a li-lo – the water can be extremely cold though! A little further west, some 160km out of Alice, is the track to Roma Gorge, probably the least known and visited site in the West MacDonnells.The access route to the gorge follows a creek for a few kilometres but is generally pretty easy (once you lower Western 4W Driver #106 153

your tyre pressures), the 13km from along Larapinta Drive. the main road to the small carpark The main 4WD track through the taking 40 minutes or so. From the reserve closely follows the original parking spot it is a short walk to the route of John McDouall Stuart’s gorge where with a bit of exploring explorations through this region in you can find some ancient Aboriginal 1860-1862, which opened the area up to rock art. It’s also a great spot for a bit of European pastoral settlement. His route birdwatching as the water in the gorge and today’s 4WD track skirts along the always attracts wildlife. edge of the Hugh River, one of the More info: http://traveloutbackaustralia. major but still ephemeral streams of com/outback-destinations/west- Central Australia. macdonnell-national-park.html From the southern access point the Hugh is met just 4km from the blacktop Owen Springs Reserve while Redbank Waterhole, probably the most popular camping spot in The 1570sqkm Owen Springs Reserve the reserve, is found just 2km south. is located south and west of Alice The main track crosses the Hugh and Springs and is a favourite with four wanders north via 8-MileYard before wheel drivers wanting to get away passing through Lawrence Gorge, a from the crowds. Rather surprisingly, convoluted gap in the Waterhouse considering how easy it is to access, Range. Camping is allowed along the we’ve always found it pretty quiet with river through Lawrence Gorge but don’t few other travellers around. expect any facilities. The southern access is off the Stuart On the northern edge of the Highway about 65km from Alice, while Waterhouse Range are the ruins of the the western access is 50km from Alice, 154 Western 4W Driver #106

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Ancient Aboriginal art can be found in the Owen Spring Reserve. old Owen Springs HS. Originally built in 1907, sold it in 1930 and in 1873 the building here was the first re-purchased it again in 1936. homestead built in Central Australia. The property was taken over Some of the great pastoral pioneers by the NT parks service who owned this property include Sir in 2002. Thomas Elder (late 1880s), Sir Sidney The track continues north Kidman (1896-1901) and the Hayes crossing the Hugh River family, who first bought the property once again and then wanders across the plain before recrossing the dry river and soon reaching the bitumen of Larapinta Drive. Along the way you’ll see ‘roos and the occasional dingo, while birdlife of all sorts is common around the waterholes. Bushwalking near Haunted Tree Bore and amongst the Waterhouse Ranges is particularly enjoyable but remember this is a hot dry region so be - Tailor made to suit your vehicle @solarscreenaustralia - 3 year warranty - Highest quality 9-layer thermal fabric - 100% Australian made & owned - Over 20,000 Satisfied customers ‘Cool in Summer, and Warm in Winter’ learn more at: www.solarscreen.com.au 156 Western 4W Driver #106

prepared. More info: https://nt.gov.au/ in the 1860s. It wasn’t until 30 years leisure/parks-reserves/find-a-park-to- later that any pioneers tried to settle visit/owen-springs-reserve the region but resistance from the Davenport Ranges local Aboriginal clans drove them out. Miners came to this area in the early The Davenports Ranges and the 1900s and by 1914 the Hatches Creek national park of the same name are wolfram mining area was the most located east of the Stuart Highway important with a short lived police some 380km north of Alice Springs.The post being established there in 1919. main access road just north of the small The miners left as the price of wolfram plummeted after the end hamlet of Wauchope is of WW1, only to be pretty good gravel for revived by WW2. the first 120km or “The ranges form the By then, pastoral so but as it swings transitional zone between development had south and begins the wet Top End and the seen a number to pass through of cattle stations established in the the Davenport drier region of Central region.Today the Ranges themselves Australia...” it degenerates to four Aboriginal a rocky sometimes groups that have long eroded route which is called this region home help manage part of the more adventurous the park as well as operate some of the Binns 4WDTrack. cattle stations surrounding the reserve. The ranges form the transitional zone About 70km from the Stuart a track between the wetTop End and the drier heads south from the access road into region of Central Australia and are an important refuge for animals, especially the northern edge of the mountains at Whistelduck Creek.There’s a camping waterbirds and the seven species of area close to the creek, while a short fish that inhabit the numerous distance away Irrmweng Rockhole is waterholes found here. Aboriginals have long lived here and depended on the region for water and A wide stretch of water at the old food. Europeans first came to the area Police Station Waterhole. Western 4W Driver #106 157

There are plenty of shady camps at Whistle Duck Creek. a pleasant day-use area before reaching the Stuart highway, that often abounds with south of Wycliffe Well. waterbirds. Wandering the More info: https://nt.gov.au/leisure/ creek around here you are parks-reserves/find-a-park-to-visit/ bound to see red kangaroos iytwelepenty-davenport-ranges- and euros as well as wild national-park donkeys and horses. The most popular camping Old Andado Homestead area in the park though can be found further on at Old If you are heading to Central Australia Police Station Waterhole on from the south west (or heading the Frew River.To get away that way home), you can head to the from the crowds along this remote Old Andado homestead from delightful stretch of water you can take the Frew River 4WD loop track and “There’s a lot of history here while rough this leads to a number of dating back to the 1920s...” small but pleasant bush camps along the water-hole dotted stream. Further south on the main track (part of the BinnsTrack) you approach Wolfram Hill and the original settlement of Hatches Creek. A little later the Pioneer Wolfram Mine - the biggest mining concern in the area - with its big obvious steel headframe complete with cables and cages, winch winding gear, ore dumps, settling pits along with debris from the crushers and refining process, litter the area. The BinnsTrack then skirts alongside the headwaters of the Frew River and before leaving the ranges passes close to a small waterhole which makes for a good camp, missed by most travellers. From here the track swings west, skirting the southern ramparts of the ranges and passing Murray Downs homestead 158 Western 4W Driver #106

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JOIN US IN THE CENTRE July is definitely the best time to be exploring the centre of Australia and we’ll be doing it in fine style for 17 days between 29th June and 15th July this year: If the Centre is on your bucket list, pack your camera and join our happy bunch of travellers as we explore along the Great Central Road to take in the iconic Olgas, Uluru and Kings Canyon. We’ll do remote tracks through Finke River NP, take in Palm Valley, Hermannsburg, Owen Springs and The Alice before heading out into the West MacDonnell Ranges to explore gaps and gorges. On the way home we’ll stop in at the Terraces out Pic by Amanda Burton. Pic by Ron Moon. of Leonora and Lake Ballard for the Gormley Art experience. This is 17 days of pure adventure and a bucket list item not to be missed. To find out more give Nick a bell on 08 9291 8303 or Andrew on 08 9317 2344. This trip is camper trailer friendly. www.campfireescapes.com.au

Coober Pedy via Oodnadatta and the Simpson Desert, as the big dunes friendly Mt Dare Hotel, which is quite just to the west and east of the an adventure in itself. Or, if you are homestead testify. already in Alice Springs you can do a There’s a lot of history here dating great loop drive of a few days taking in back to the 1920s when the homestead the delights of the desert to the south- was first built. But it is the story of east of the ‘big smoke’. the legendary and late ‘Molly’ Clark At Mt Dare and nearby delightful that the homestead is best known for. Dalhousie Springs (you’ll need a permit Once you’ve been there you will be to visit the latter) you start on the Binns enthralled by the story and the heritage of this unique place. Old cars dot the homestead yard at Old Andado. Track as you head north. From the old homestead From Mt Dare the 105km route is easy you head north paralleling enough to follow but sections can be a great dune of the desert deep in bulldust and this is remote for quite some way; it’s a country so you need to be prepared. memorable drive. It’s over Once at Old Andado throw down the 300km to Alice Springs swag or set up the camper. It’s a great from here passing the spot right on the very edge of the Aboriginal settlement of SantaTeresa, a community renown for its dynamic artwork. More info: www.mtdare.com.au; www.oldandado.com.au Arltunga Located 110km east of Alice Springs the Arltunga Historical Reserve preserves the substantial ruins and memorabilia The old Police Post at Arltunga - a testimony to the building skills of Cornish miners. Western 4W Driver #106 161

Plenty of history to occupy your time at Arltunga. of the 1887 gold rush which brought the old mining areas in the White Range 300 people to this remote area and itself. Camping is not permitted on the established what was the first town in Reserve and pets are not allowed.The Central Australia. Arltunga Bush Hotel is closed, although North of the well set-up and informative some people camp in the adjoining Visitor Centre you’ll find the old police camping area; there are no facilities. post and gaol and another road leading We’ve never had an issue finding a to the Government Works area where camping spot. NearbyTrephina Gorge a gold battery had been established. and the N’Dhala Gorge both offer basic Here are the most significant ruins of bush camps while the Old Ambalindum the gold fields along with an old boiler HS on the Hale River offers pleasant and assorted machinery. Many of the camping and accommodation as does first miners here were Cornishmen the Ross River Resort. fresh from the famous mines in South More info: www.haleriverhomestead. Australia.Today, many of the buildings com.au; Arltunga Historical Reserve they built in this remote and dry region Visitor Centre: (08) 8956 9770. of Australia have been restored as a testimony and a monument to their skill Tower Rock and pioneering endeavour. Just a short distance east at ‘the Cross Located north of the Plenty Highway Roads’, where there was once a store and about 95km east of the pleasant and hotel, you can continue east to the camping area of the Gemtree Bush White Range Cemetery or take a walk to Dark clouds gather over our camp at Tower Rock. 162 Western 4W Driver #106

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Resort is the Mac & Rose Chalmers water run-off from infrequent rains Conservation Reserve, named after the small patches of sandy flat plain in the pioneering couple who in the early between the rocky hills carry a bigger 1920s took up the MacDonald Downs variety of plants than elsewhere, station lease and are now buried on while bird and animal life is much the reserve. more common.The whole area was a The impressive hills of rounded favoured picnic spot for the Chalmers boulders that dominate the small and their descendants and it’s easy to reserve hasTower Rock, which is the understand why. tallest and most imposing. With the It’s also a top spot to camp with the small bush camping ground having just a couple of long drop dunnies for amenities but no water, so you have ARE YOUR LANDCRUISER SEATS A PAIN IN THE BUTT? Landcruiser 75/79 and 100 Series owners rejoice. Now you can drive in to Trimcare and drive out on exchange seats with the ultimate, extra high density foam base guaranteed not to be a pain in the butt. Heavy duty 12oz canvas Our seat base foams seat covers for VDJ 79 are far superior to O.E. Series 2009 Velcro fastenings ensure As supplied to mining covers stay in position. companies and Toyota dealerships Australia wide. Call Perth’s Phone 94703381 premier trim shop EM: [email protected] Unit 1/183 Bank Street, East Victoria Park WA 6101 164 Western 4W Driver #106

to be pretty well independent to stay conditions with numerous vehicles there. Luckily the Mt Swan homestead, being bogged and some mammoth just 25km or so south from the camping recovery operations. It pays to find out area has a well stocked store where the latest info. water is available.The homestead also Before you head down the Finke to has a very good art gallery that exhibits Boggy Hole check out Palm Valley which (and sells) some of the local and is one of the natural highlights of this spectacular Aboriginal art. region.To access the Valley and the A couple of walking trails help you camping area you’ll need 4WD.Then explore the area while just clambering you’ll have to backtrack to the bitumen up the rocky hills will reward and to pick up the Finke River 4WD route, inspire you with great views. Viewing which first follows Ellery Creek before the sunrise from one of the rock-strewn meeting the Finke atThe Junction. From crests with the flat-topped ridges of here the route crosses the normally the Dulcie Range far to the east is sandy bed of the Finke a number of unforgettable. times before coming to Boggy Hole. More Info: https://nt.gov.au/leisure/ Nearby and close to the camping parks-reserves/find-a-park-to-visit/mac- area are some low ruins of the 1889 rose-chalmers-conservation-reserve; police camp that was established www.gemtree.com.au here.This is the scene of one of the most shameful episodes in the Finke River settlement of Central Australia when a mounted constable, W. Willshire, & Boggy Hole and his four native constables were based here to help control cattle This can be the most challenging trip killing by the local Aboriginal people. detailed here and after rain with the Willshire was implicated in a number Finke flowing, the route can be tricky. of killings and was later charged with I remember our first trip here when murder – the first policeman to be so we were plagued by near quicksand Finke River cuts through the James Range at Boggy Hole. Western 4W Driver #106 165

GRoerdgbeank RaDnagveenNpPort RoTcokwer Old Andado YOUR NEW BUSH Excerpt from Hema’s NT State map. MICROWAVE charged in Australian history; he was Safe. controversially acquitted! Convenient. The great waterhole found at Compact & Boggy Hole is a beauty and always collapsible. hosts a number of pelicans, ducks, water hens and a host of other birds. Cook on it with Other animals wander into here to take BBQ plate, Grill advantage of the long stretch of water Basket or Spit Kit then sit back and relax and the green feed that often blankets around the Bush Microwave. the fringing banks. Comes complete with: The route south from Boggy Hole again Fire box, ash tray, BBQ plate, grill basket, skirts along the edge of the Finke and spit kit, grill support bars, carry handle, crosses it a few times. It passes through and canvas bag. the James Range before exiting the national park and reaching Running To see more of this great Waters and then a series of stock yards. innovation go to: From here the route swings west and www.topendcampgear.com.au then south before striking west or PH. 0476 175 124 towards Watarrka NP or east to the Stuart Highway. 166 Western 4W Driver #106 More info: https://nt.gov.au/leisure/ parks-reserves/find-a-park-to-visit/finke- gorge-national-park

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GEAR TO GO CAMPING Find yourself in the southern hemisphere to have electric street lighting after Philadelphia – and Kimberley the one at the top end of our island is THE Kimberley is an amazing place – a region, spanning 423,517 three times the size of square kilometres, which for England, twice the size folks who don’t understand of Victoria – and well the metric system, worth seeing. translates to 163,521 square But it’s so vast, and has miles. Russel Coight would so many attractions, say it’s ‘roolly, roolly big.’ that you’d better get The diamond link in the Hema’s 6th edition South African Kimberley Kimberley Atlas & dates back to 1879, and Guide to save yourself though some tiny ones the agony of where to were found in the Oz one go, which way to turn, around the same time by what to do and the lads looking for gold, the rest of it. kimberlite pipe wasn’t Also, without it you located until almost 100 could well end up in years later. It’s now the most prolific Kimberley, South Africa, producer in the world, but the quality’s or Ellendale, Tasmania. more for the industrial than the The new atlas and guide has all fashion market. the data you need to stay on track Ellendale was another diamond mine to discover everywhere from the found in the WA Kimberley, in 1979 – sandstone of Keep River and Purnululu but if you don’t pack a Hema map, you to the blue waters of the Dampier might perchance arrive at Ellendale, Peninsula on the west coast. Tasmania, now quite famous for its Within the spiral-bound covers are adorable mini goats. Top 10 4WD trek guides revised by Still afraid to venture out on your the legendary Ron and Viv Moon, the own? If so, you might want to invest maps have all been updated in an in Hema’s HX-1 Navigator which will easy-to-read new cartographic style guide you through every street, track, and there’s even more atlas mapping gully, nook and cranny via its 7-inch and trip planning than in the multi-touch screen. And keep you on earlier edition. the Australian mainland. Interestingly, both of the world’s Get them from your favourite 4wd Kimberleys are diamondiferous, shop or camping store or go to but one is a city – the second in the hemamaps.com Western 4W Driver #106 169

Cool Roadie lid opens from either side, his drink holders are insulated and he’s super- DID you know that fridges come in versatile too in that he can play the male and female genders? roles of fridge or freezer in 12 or 24 We’d never given it a thought until volt – and he comes with yet another Bushman came along with one called cool feature: a three-year compressor the Roadie. On second thoughts, warranty. How’s that sound, Miss Bushman is male. If that was not Nomer? Check the Roadie out at: the case it would be Bushwoman, www.bushman.com.au wouldn’t it? Or maybe ‘Bushperson’ in this age of political bullness. The Roadie is a nicely packaged chap, measuring 380mm high and 220mm wide and perfect as a centre console fridge, truck fridge or armrest for back seat, assuming your vehicle does actually have a back seat. ‘He’ll never let you down, working away day and night to keep your things cool while you’re out on the road,’ the makers say. As with all Bushman fridges, the Roadie is made of powder-coated steel for strength and durability, it, sorry, he, will accommodate 1.25litre bottles, his A Trio of Clever Ideas without popping a disc in your back. No probs – provided you have one of SO you want to take the bulldog out Clearview’s power boards fitted to for a drive in the SUV – but it’s a heavy your conveyance. beastie with short legs, so it can’t get in. And it’s too heavy for you to lift They’re something like running boards, but they fold 170 Western 4W Driver #106 out of sight until you open the door. They then drop down automatically and let you and dog climb in without any difficulty. They work fine with wife, girlfriend, partner, mother-in- law, livestock . . . any kind of living creature that can do with a step in the right direction. Also from Clearview is a magnetic thingo that looks like an aerial, but it’s called a cable saver in that you

simply hook cooker, beer, camera, or any of the your vehicle’s zillion things you carry about and don’t fridge cable to know where to put. Check ‘em out at it so the cable clearviewaccessories.com.au is alongside the fridge, rather than under it, where it is easily snagged and mutilated by the runners. And then there’s the clip-on tray, which neatly slips onto the edge of the Easy Slide that your fridge sits on to provide a handy and secure tray for your Cook, Eat, Drink Shakespeare said. Eating means china – not the country, but the crockery SILENCE, Art Garfunkel and Paul which usually is made in China anyway Simon wrote, is golden, and when – or tin or aluminium or cast iron, and you’re out camping or hiking, the last items made of those components are thing you want is the dreadful rattle of often heavy to cart along, difficult to china to shatter the ambience. pack and make a hell of a din in use, The call of a bird or animal is fine, often attracting hungry dingoes from because that’s part of Cloud Nine, several kilometres distant. or whatever you call your But there is a saviour: Ranger moment of solace, your Nirvana, Outdoors has a range of saucepans, maybe Tranquillia. bowls, graters and suchlike that will But you still have to eat, for fear let you prepare spaghetti bolognaise of a food-depleted body failing to or your choice of exotic fodder without enjoy the glory of a sunrise the next waking and annoying the rest of day, and there’s the rub, as ol’ Willy the population. The compact, lightweight products are made of food grade silicone that pop up for use and collapse flat after Western 4W Driver #106 171

you’ve finished. wineglass. Fear not, although it looks They’re tough and easy to clean and and feels like one of those magnificent pack and those needed for heating Riedel glasses, it’s actually made of have a stainless steel base so you can shatterproof polycarbonate. use them on low heat to get the baked So there you have it: a silent supper at beans piping hot. sundown, a glass of claret and you can The products include a saucepan with finally savour your golden moment. a stainless steel base, a 2litre multi- You’ll find these great products at functional bowl (don’t ask) that comes Ranger Outdoors - U1/1163 Albany with two grater plates. Highway Bentley or go to Also, since you’re either a person of www.rangeroutdoors.com.au impeccable taste, or a rough-around- the-edges roustabout trying to impress Margot Robbie, you can serve your De Bortoli in a speccy long-stemmed GET SOMDEONTR’TAIGNEINTGSIUDNEDWERAYYSOUR BELT Download Our >New App NOW! smartphone “Eureka 4WD Training App”CourRseecsrefartoiomnajlu&stCo$m22m0erpceiarl day 172 Western 4W Driver #106

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ACROSS THE SIMPSON Three years ago, two adventurous - ON SOLAR types got together and decided that two electric powered and by Denis Dwyer solar charged Suzukis should cross the Simpson Desert! lithium batteries and again with an extensive array of flexible solar panels. Usual reasons , we can and it’s there The first attempt in 2015 was and no one has done it so far. abandoned after poor weather So Alan Johnson and Mark French got conditions settled in and did not look busy and each built themselves an like moving on, no sun, no power! electric Suzuki. Before they knew it 2016 came around Alan went down a more traditional and you guessed it, the Simpson path using an electric fork lift motor desert was flooded, first time in years! hooked via very special switching So in 2017 the time was set again modules to three banks of four X AGM with a perfect weather prediction. Optima batteries. With an extensive By this time many updates had array of flexible solar panels to been completed, testing carried out recharge the Optima batteries. and purpose-built transport trailers Meanwhile Mark developed his electric fabricated. The event was logged with Suzuki around a very modern three Guinness World Records (GRW) for phase electric motor and a bank of a potential record and both teams

rounded up a support Alan Johnson and Mark French pause crew to assist. The for posterity at the start line. location of the start line was decided by to maximise the driving sections to GRW to be Alka Seltzer cover the distance while managing to Bore and the finish line get maximum charging hours. There was to be Birdsville. were windstorms to be tolerated and Each team, the Yellow even at this time of year, some very Team Optima and the White team now had to complete the challenge in under eight days to be eligible. Both teams set off and the conditions were perfect, plenty of sun, so optimum times were to be expected. Now, sunlight is restricted to the daylight hours so many daylight hours were dedicated to actual charging before making forward progress, so a late charge often led to night driving and then a long wait the next morning to recharge. A pattern was established FTuNColiSlysrueroAsaiatavsnaatnegiCLrPleaaoaanbvotnderfldeors.l Western 4W Driver #106 175

hot conditions. Mark’s WhiteTeam soon Desert charging station. Panels carried surged ahead with longer travel time on the vehicle’s roof are arrayed to re- per charge cycle, as both teams had to charge batteries. abide by the Desert Parks speed limit of 40 km per hour.This had Mark hitting recorded as the record holder for the Birdsville four days, 21 hours and 23 first electric powered, solar charged car minutes from the start, followed by to cross the Simpson, with Alan’sYellow Alan’s YellowTeam Optima crossing Team Optima still being the first lead- the line seven days, five hours and acid battery powered solar charged car five minutes from the start. Both were to make the attempt. Both attempts amazing attempts at doing something currently now stand unchallenged but different.The WhiteTeam will be watch this space for further challenges, possibly from overseas. Even drivers need recharging from time to time. 176 Western 4W Driver #106



FOURBIES & GREENIES Words by Phil Bianchi Images by Scott Montgomery and Connor Slight Chastity and a prostitute was how the workshop between the Conservation Council WA, Recreational 4W Drivers and Trackcare WA was described in a text to an ABC Radio drive show interview on 12th January. Who would have thought these shared many common goals and two groups, who for years maybe they weren’t the enemy after have suspiciously viewed each all. A decision was made to have a other as the ‘enemy’, with workshop with both groups present; each thinking the other were red neck it was held over the weekend of 13-14 4W Drivers or lock-everything-up-chain January 2018 and well attended. On yourself-to-a-tree greenies, would get the Saturday, participants were split into bed with each and further the into manageable groups, and each cause of environmental conservation? attended sites to learn more about the environment at that location and about The catalyst for the joint workshop the specific issues each site faced. was a presentation by TCWA’s Graham Weber to a South West Catchments Council conference held in November 2017 at Collie. After his presentation he was approached by conservationists including; Conservation Council WA, Friends of Moore River Estuary and Ledge Point Coast Care Group; all had realised the two groups A good turn-out for Nic Dunlop’s talk on beach erosion. 178 Western 4W Driver #106

I attended the Wedge Island Fairy Tern tracks going through the same area and beach erosion session run by Dr and how sand compaction by tyres Nic Dunlop. He explained Fairy Tern damages areas in which microscopic habits and how their populations were and larger burrowing creatures lived. at risk, because they nested on the Mic explained the Hill River Estuary ground on beaches. He also explained was a pristine estuary because of little how Wedge Island’s positioning and impact on it caused by inland land use the resultant changes to wave action and run off. He also outlined problems and erosion were important to the with weed infestation and damage local ecology. We also viewed a 1,000 to the Hill River ecological cycle plus year old Aboriginal camping and caused deliberately and unwittingly by midden area. We enjoyed learning recreational 4W Drivers and others. more about the local environment We were delighted to learn about the but were saddened and surprised to local environments, erosion, animals, learn of damage caused by 4w Drivers plants, marshes and estuary. Likewise and motor bike riders unwittingly Nic and Mic were I’m sure, surprised running over bird nesting sites, at the level of interest we showed, Aboriginal archaeological sites and the questions we asked and the offers of the stress caused by dogs chasing to assist. The idea that each was the birds that had yet to recover from a enemy was quickly fading. long northern hemisphere migration. The next day had us at a workshop At the Hill River estuary session, run discussing the impacts of recreational by Dr Mic Payne from the Northern activities and conservation issues Agricultural Catchment Council, we learnt of damage and erosion caused Hill River Estuary is a pristine by having numerous unnecessary environment due to minimal upstream impacts like agricultural runoff. Western 4W Driver #106 179

in the coastal zone of the Northern Dr Mic Payne described how creating Agricultural Area and a model unnecessary new tracks destroys for community based fragile environments. environmental protection. What has come clearer to me is The governments at a higher level that governments are spending less are busy with exotic advertisements and more is left to volunteers to seeking to attract tourists to Australia. progress environmental protection They haven’t realised that the biggest and conservation, recreational group of travellers and spenders of infrastructure upgrades or if unable or tourist dollars is under their noses. unwilling to upgrade facilities, close Every marketing person knows that off access to areas. The government by all means seek new customers however just can’t see the elephant in but don’t forget to look after the the room. Just like we saw each other ones you already have. Governments as enemies or groups with different should be ploughing more money agendas so does the government. In into environmental tourism and my opinion what is needed is being conservation projects. Most people able to determine the total value of want a purpose for a trip; ecology, recreational activities to Federal, history, scenery, photography or State and Local governments. What whatever. Governments should be is the annual spend on recreational enablers and encouragers and vehicles, accessories, caravans, not compliance and campers, boats and so on for us to revenue driven. pursue our interests? What is the value I see a very bright future for the of the recreational manufacturing marriage of these passionate groups, industries in Australia? How much their success will without doubt spread is injected in local and regional across the state to economies by recreational tourism? other areas. 180 Western 4W Driver #106

PIK-UP . What a wonderful name for a, well, pick-up truck, aka ute, bakkie or lori, depending on where in the world you are. However, most of the western years, but the brand remains world calls a ute a pick-up truck, relatively obscure. so Mahindra applied simple logic That might change with its just- to its workhorse, dropped the ‘c’ launched 2018 Pik-Ups, all-new and and called it a Pik-Up. tailored to Australian conditions after six months and 80,000km of testing. The huge Indian company, which is The latest models, S6 and S10, have also the world’s biggest maker of been given a new look, more muscle in tractors, has sold its Pik-Ups and other the ‘mHawk’ turbo-diesel motor, a new models in Australia for the past 10 “toThtheheePrreik’us-tuenpsofoomnrisathtnaeykrionofgatdh.e” Western 4W Driver #106 181

six-speed transmission and Reasonable leg room plus air-con to the classy and spacious rear seats. new interior. The two have similar looks and locking differential as standard. mechanical bits, but while the The system reacts to the wheel speed S6 is a workhorse, the S10 has differences and automatically locks the more SUV-like specification. rear axle. The result: you keep going The uprated 2.2litre four-pot non-stop over sand, snow, muck, ice, diesel has a variable geometry rocks or whatever. turbocharger with output of Or so Mahindra says. 103kW and 330Nm, the latter But the Indian terrain is tougher than from a very low 1600rpm, that of Australia, and Mahindra Pik- which translates to impressive Ups have built a reputation there for performance and great function and reliability. towing power. Prices start from $26,990 drive-away Transmission is by a six-speed for S6 single cab chassis and the dual manual gearbox that drives the rear cab version is $29,490. Add $550 for a wheels under normal conditions, factory fitted well-side tub. but you can select 4X4 with low range Safety features include next if you end up in a mud hole or on generation electronic stability control, the beach. a hill-holder, ABS, EBD, dual airbags, The four-model range also comes with crash protection crumple zones and Eaton’s state-of-the-art mechanical collapsible steering column and Dual Cab models get Isofix child anchors in TRUST YOUR 4WD the rear seat. TO THE SPECIALISTS The flagship S10 Double Cab, priced at $31,990 drive-away, has remote Est. 1986 central locking, cruise control, satellite navigation, reversing camera and a ARMADALE 4WD SERVICE CENTRE multifunction steering wheel. Plus auto wipers and ‘intelligent’ headlights, 7 KEATS RD, ARMADALE automatic climate control and a futuristic 3D-effect instrument cluster. PH: 9497 3066 Arriving early next years will be a 4x2 S6 single cab chassis at $21,990. www.armadale4wd.com.au 182 Western 4W Driver #106

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Braked towing capacity for Cockpit looks purposeful but comfy the 4X4s is 2.5tonnes, the fuel - like the armrests. tank will hold 80litres, so you should get a decent run since equipment, logistics, real estate, steel, average fuel consumption is aerospace, defence and motorcycles. 8.8litres/100km. There’s even a Mahindra competing There’s no mistaking the Pik- in Formula E. Up for any of the other utes You think Peugeot two-wheelers on the road. are French? Its new face, which Mahindra Think again. describes as ‘aggressive’ has You can get your Pik-Up in Arctic a built-in bonnet airscoop, White, De-Sat Silver, Napoli Black a grille with six chrome or Red Rage. fangs and a set of mean- Stay tuned for a full test. looking headlights. And its tailgate makes it pretty clear that you’re behind a Mahindra. Peace of mind? It comes with a five- year/100,000km warranty with five- year roadside assistance. The Mahindra Group is a US$19 billion federation of companies that employs more than 200,000 people in 100 countries. We had a look at its vehicle building plant at Pune a little while ago and the scale of operation left us stunned. More than tractors, utes and SUVs, it’s a global player in energy, industrial 184 Western 4W Driver #106

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PTURE TCAHE Proudly sponsored by M We Love Photography MENT With Graham Cahill Passion Under the Stars a rocket and one of those puffy white suits before you even consider lunch on There is a lot to be said for pure, the moon). I’ve been really fortunate unadulterated passion. Passion in my travels around this big island is a bit like the flu but without to rub shoulders with dozens of truly the negativity; it’s downright passionate folk. People who simply contagious and anyone who comes in contact with someone overflowing with can’t sleep in because they just have passion just can’t help to be doing, pursuing and following but catch a solid dose of their passion. From fishermen to bow it. Combine passion with hunters, travellers and four wheel talent and you have one drivers, photographers and even a mad very potent combination. keen kite flyer; all may not have been This was exactly the at the top of their game but each was recipe that came about as passionate as a person can be. bounding up to shake my Like I said, it’s downright infectious. hand, grinning like a lotto Now take this ridiculously cool star trail winner and talking faster from Dave. Straight up we can see it’s a than a race caller after an upsized Redbull. Western 4W Driver #106 187 Dave Walters was the young chap’s name and his passion and enthusiasm for the art of photography and four wheel driving was utterly obvious from the get go.Ten seconds into a long weekend with Campfire Escapes’ annual Shutterbuggers trip and Dave was already 100 photos down and not even warmed up. I actually pitied his poor camera! I’ve long maintained that in any walk of life, passion will get you so much further than equipment (unless you are an astronaut; then you really will need

great photo; the sort of photo you just talented photographer herself) out want to sit and look at for longer than of bed so that he could wave a torch usual. What it doesn’t show however is around inside the swag to finish off the how much work Dave put into making it image. I believe in total he spent hours come to life. making this shot through the night. If memory serves, it was night one Sure, he knew what he was doing and and we were all having the usual CFE had the talent to pull it off but the big evening water and dry biscuits as a difference here was that he had the group (some of us had a little more passion to be out all night making it water than others….); many laughs happen! Oh and I think a decent dose and good times being had by all as of bravery for kicking his girlfriend out is customary on these trips. Dave of the swag in the middle of the night kept disappearing and reappearing as well. moments later; so odd was his Passion is like tyre pressures; both will behaviour that I had to question if get you further for zero dollars than any he was ok.Totally, was his reply; just expensive equipment ever will….unless grabbing a star trail photo.To make it you want to go to the moon…. happen, Dave was taking short images, dozens of short images one after the Well done David, you’ve won other in order to get a well exposed scene that could be layered one on top A $200 GIFT VOUCHER of the other in Photoshop to make the stars appear to be moving. Of course from in order to do this, he had to go back to his camera dozens of times through THATS IT FOLKS! the course of the evening, even after having retired to his swag. Passion! Email us a pic for some TECTIPS & Not satisfied with just the star trail, he you could win a $200 Voucher! then kicked his girlfriend Leila (a very Email to: [email protected] 188 Western 4W Driver #106

THE NULLARBOR Words and NYMPHOLOGY Pics by Colin Kerr It all started back in December 1971 when a story hit the news about a girl (who had been spotted by roo shooters out in the bush) with long blonde hair living and running wild with kangaroos in the Jdesert near Eucla. them in place. They then let them all ournalists from all over the world go at the same time as the camera shot descended on the area to get in on blurred, shaky footage of the lady in this quite bizarre ‘scoop’, and to the rough roo skin bikini and her family photograph the naked young lady of roos. This film proved to be a real now being billed as the ‘Nullarbor Nymph’! Come back here you wascally woo. masterstroke – the legend was now The whole thing, of complete – pictures and all. course, was a hoax (an The story goes that at the time in the bar imaginative piece of when this yarn was being put together, Nullarbor mythology), there was a public relations bloke from conceived out of the beer Perth (Geoff Pearce) who was heading being consumed around east looking for work. He apparently was the bar at the Eucla Motor pretty broke and couldn’t afford to pay Hotel by a couple of roo his motel bill. Instead he promised the shooters, shark fishermen motel owner (Steve Patupis) he would and a few other locals – a get some tourism going out here and made-up yarn – ‘a story that would really put Eucla on the map’! … and that was the main purpose of this quite adventurous scheme! To give the story some further credibility, the resourceful locals even put together some shaky 8mm camera footage of a local lass in a rough roo skin bikini interacting with five or six captured bush roos which they had chased down in the bush until they were exhausted and put them in bags. The pretty 25 year old blonde lady who was working in the motel at the time went out into the bush with the boys and an 8mm camera. The men took the docile kangaroos out of the bags, hid behind bushes and held Western 4W Driver #106 189

would really ‘put Eucla on the map’ – he headlights in the dead of night! During would give the place the kind of publicity all of this time, the few businesses in money can’t buy in return for his Eucla were doing a roaring trade, the lodgings! From his experience he knew motel was booked out and bar sales that Christmas time was traditionally were going through the roof. Eucla was the ‘silly season’, a time when many now well and truly ‘on the map’ and people go on holidays and ‘news’ usually enjoying its instant world-wide fame! pretty much dries up and the smallest To most of the news crews the whole and sometimes silliest stories get a thing out here in the remote Aussie bush run. Well, like a true opportunist he put was quite possible, believable and even together, in quite graphic terms, the logical. All the media outlets in fact, Nullarbor Nymph story and sent it off to were going mad with the story. Like any a newspaper.The report of this beautiful good fishing tale, the journos had taken naked blonde woman living in the desert the bait and were slowly being reeled with kangaroos in the Aussie outback in – as they say, hook, line and sinker!! went ballistic, quickly spreading around One journalist however, wasn’t buying the world. Journalists and news crews this whole yarn and after a couple of came in by the plane load from Adelaide, days just wanted to go home. He took Perth, Sydney and the United States. one of the roo shooters into the motel The BBC in Britain even sent a fullTV bar and proceeded to get him drunk. documentary crew to Eucla. The locals “Of course it’s bullshit, mate – just a out here at the time loved the whole bloody yarn”, he finally slurred, “and you Behind you Colin! bastards are goin’ for it”. From Eucla’s only thing and continued to feed it to all who phone box at the time, came. To help promote the story, the roo the journalist (Murray shooters and locals trucked people out Nicoll) immediately into the scrub showing them imprints phoned out the report of a woman’s feet in the sand, a place and newspaper where the Nymph may have camped headlines carried the and out on the Eyre Highway tour buses ‘nymph hoax’ story were reporting seeing a mysterious around the globe. young woman flitting in front of their Not surprisingly out 190 Western 4W Driver #106 here at Eucla, things quickly became quiet once again!Today this intriguing piece of Aussie folk lore lives on.The Nullarbor Links Golf Course (the longest in the world stretching 1,365 from Ceduna to Kalgoorlie) featuring a hole at each of the Nullarbor’s towns and roadhouses, has a hole at Eucla lovingly named ‘Nullarbor Nymph’. There is also a life-size bronze Nullarbor Nymph statue outside the main entrance of the Flinders Medical Centre in Adelaide. Yes, it may be 47 years ago, but the legend lives on.

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Hooray for H and A Good on you Minister - you deserve a medal. In his article “The Jewel in The Crown” published in Western 4W Hopefully this will result in a new Driver’s Summer 2016 Edition, National Park. Steve Wilke predicted that a decision regarding a mining proposal in the Muster the Troops Helena & Aurora Range at Bungalbin and Jackson 5 would be deferred Dust off your boots and hat and until after the March 2017 State head for Rawlinna… election. He was right as the decision The Nullarbor Muster is a great was eventually announced just four weekend away, situated some 380 days before Christmas 2017 by the new Government. It was worth the wait; the Minister for the Environment (Stephen Dawson) announced that approval for Mineral Resources Ltd to mine at the two sites in the Helena & Aurora Range would not be granted. This decision cannot be appealed. It has been reported that the Minister made two visits to the Range in the lead-up to the final decision. Minister Dawson also announced that the State Government is committed to investigating options to create a class A reserve over the Helena- Aurora Range which will protect this unique area from mining in perpetuity. 192 Western 4W Driver #106

odd kilometres from Kalgoorlie on the 40 Goings On Trans-access Line in Rawlinna, this road pretty much follows the train line YEAR across the Nullarbor. The Nullarbor MILESTONE Muster is an annual event; it’s a Rodeo in the outback, with the event to be In 2017 The Toyota Land Cruiser held on the weekend of Fri 20-22 April. Club of WA (TLCCWA) celebrated 40 Entry fees for the weekend are:- years of existence. The milestone 18 and over - $50 was commemorated by a steady flow 16 - 18 - $20 of events, starting in January and Under 16 - Free culminating on Thursday December and diesel will be around $2 Ltr. 7th at City Toyota Northbridge, with The three day entry fee includes access the launch of a commemorative book to the camp grounds, toilet blocks, “40 Years in the Making.” Initially the rodeo, night time entertainment (band book was going to be little bigger than etc) and all the other events – arm wrestling, skeet shooting, children’s games, and the Iron Man / Woman competitions. There will be limited diesel for sale on the Sunday morning, and no EFTPOS, so remember to bring cash. There’s take away style food and alcohol available for purchase in the main area, which is up near the rodeo arena. If you are after a family friendly event, this is definitely for you. Check out their website or Facebook page for more details. http://www.nullarbormuster.org/ https://www.facebook.com/ Western 4W Driver #106 193

one of the club’s monthly magazines, The research and publishing but the more club low down club team celebrate completion historian Gordon Cole and book editor of the 332 page 40th Nesta Barr uncovered, the bigger it Anniversary book. became. The finished tome is over three hundred A4 sized pages, professionally bound and covered. A word to the wise – don’t drop it on your toes, it is heavy. TheToyota Land Cruiser Club of WA came into existence on the 7th November 1977. According to legend the seven founding members first met in their local pub, the Carlisle Hotel. The success of the club has been the result of hard work and dedicated commitment from its members. This commitment was evident at the book launch as the list of celebratory events was reeled off and it became apparent how much effort had gone into the serious task of celebrating this milestone. The book launch itself had all the razzmatazz one could wish for: good food, mint Nesta Barr, club chairman, Mark Davies and club historian, Gordon Cole with a history of fun and community involvement. 194 Western 4W Driver #106

The club gathered at City environmental ethos, and has adopted Toyota to celebrate the event. both the Dryandra Woodlands and the Holland Track. The adoptions are very condition 40 series cruisers, active, mostly involving maintenance dancing flash mobs and work and information coordination. raffle prizes. Most recently the Holland Track was There was representation diverted around a malleefowl nest that fromToyota WA,Toyota was too close for comfort, Australia and even and the club totally rebuilt the Toyota Japan. stockyards at Dryandra. A strong underpinning As part of the anniversary culture together with commemoration the club buried a flexibility has enabled the time capsule. In 40 years when it is club to adapt as four-wheel exhumed what will four wheel driving driving changed over the be like? One thing I can say – with years. Over the last 40 years, vehicle their commitment, adaptability and technology has progressed, as has the availability and commercialisation of camping gear. This has changed four wheel driving, from being undertaken by a small number of enthusiasts to being a popular recreational activity embraced by a broad spectrum of the community. This in turn has led to higher land use both of tracks and camp sites, a greater expectation of comfort with reduced propensity for accountability has driven greater regulation. Through all of this the TLCC of WA has thrived. The club runs between 50 and 70 trips a year. Trips vary from social nights out to multi week travel to remote drive the Land Cruiser Club is looking destinations, with even the odd good to be around then. Since the overseas four wheel drive trip thrown launch I hear that the first run of in for good measure. Membership is 150 books have gone, mostly to not restricted to Toyota owners, but club members who each received a those members who sit behind the complimentary copy. Unallocated wheel of vehicles from a different books were sold for $50.00 a pop and manufacture need to have a thick skin. were quickly snapped up, so with the The club has an entrenched continued support of City Toyota a new print run is now on the cards. Western 4W Driver #106 195

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