Roam Magazine: Singapore

November 2020 Magazine for the free-spirited travelers BCuAlwhzazyisninagt,oAlwwanys The Glam hasn’t lost it’s shine Big Trails and Thrills Little India The Modern Past

RoAlawmaysing Huwinth ga ry HeartAlfred Tennyson 22

CONTENTS 10 26 The Glam Hasn’t lost The Modern Past its Shine 04 16 Big Trails and Thrills: Always Buzzing, Little India! Always Chinatown 3

TrBaigils Thanrdills: Little India! The distinctive Little India precinct melds the old with the new, hosting trades from the past beside modern businesses, old conserved shophouses next to high rise buildings. In this precinct, you can find flower garland vendors next to restaurants serving both traditional and fusion meals, small traditional businesses alongside multi-storey departmental stores. And these are just some ways in which the precinct retains aspects of its history within today’s modern context. Source: NHB Little India Trail Booklet 2018 Photos: Lim Sindy Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple in the centre of Little India. 4 Big Trails and Thrills: Little India!

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It is interesting to note that Little India was never designated by Sir Stamford Raffles as an area for the Indian community. This is unlike Chinatown or Kampong Gelam, which were designated for the Chinese and the Malays respectively in the Raffles Town Plan of 1823. Before Little India got its current name in the 1970s-80s, it was just known as Serangoon, after one of the earliest roads in Singapore and indicated as the “road leading across the island” on an 1828 map. Through the Little India Heritage Trail, discover how this once swampy, rural area transformed itself into the colourful and culturally diverse precinct of today. This self-guided trail consists of a Trail Booklet, a Trail Map and onsite Trail Markers. The Trail Booklet provides a history of the area, as well as information about the places of heritage, social and cultural interest. The accompanying Trail Map offers three thematic sub-trails with translations in Mandarin, Malay and Tamil while the Trail Markers showcase old photographs of the site along with further information. We hope you enjoy your journey! Buzy street near the Indian Heritage Centre. Colourful Former House of Tan Teng Niah. TRAIL 1: SERANGOON IN THE 1900s 40 Minutes The early 20th century was a defining period that shaped today’s Little India as migrants from India, China and Britain settled in the area and established a diversity of trades and institutions. Follow this trail and explore the rich history of the Little India precinct. Begin your journey at the Indian Heritage Centre and obtain an overview of the history of the Indian community in Singapore. Then walk down Serangoon Road and cross over to Kerbau Road, whose name refers to the buffaloes that were kept here in the 1900s. Walking along this road, you will come across the colourful Former House of Tan Teng Niah. The only remaining Chinese villa in Little India, this is a legacy of the time when small Chinese cottage industries thrived alongside the Indian-dominated cattle trade in this area. 6 Big Trails and Thrills: Little India!

Turn around and walk towards Belilios Continuing along Race Course Road, keep If you are hungry or wish to rest your feet, Lane where you will spot the large a lookout on the left for a small unnamed walk straight down to Tekka Centre, which mural Traditional Trades of Little street where you will encounter the origins is the new incarnation of the Tekka Market India by Psyfool. Continue towards of this road name in the form of a mural that was once located across the road Belilios Road and turn right to the Sri entitled A Ride Through Race Course Road and considered the “people’s market”. Veeramakaliamman Temple which was by Jaxton Su. The Former Racecourse was Here you can enjoy local hawker fare, built as a shrine by Tamil workers from at the location of the current Farrer Park or purchase fresh meat to cook at home. the lime pits in this area. From here, turn Field just opposite. Then it’s a short walk to Little India MRT left onto Serangoon Road and left again station for a ride home. onto Race Course Lane. Along Hampshire Road beside the field, you will see the Former Kandang Kerbau At Race Course Lane, you will encounter Hospital (now the Land Transport a number of Chinese Clan Associations Authority building) which served as which were established to provide social general hospital in the 1900s. In the and economic support for Chinese background, you can also spot the immigrants from the same clans. Turn left distinctive shape of the new KK Women’s onto Race Course Road and you will come and Children’s Hospital building. across the Foochow Methodist Church at the corner of Rotan Lane. The church was The church was established in established in 1897 as a Christian mission 1897 as a Christian mission for working class immigrants from for working class immigrants Foochow, China, such as rickshaw pullers from Foochow, China, such as and coolies. rickshaw pullers and coolies. Traditional Trade of Little India mural by psyfool. 7

Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple lit up. Red and white indian Temple. Anglican Church of The True Light. TRAIL 2: WALK OF FAITHS 1 Hour The Little India precinct contains a Here you will see the architecturally Along the same road, you will encounter great number and diversity of religious different Kampong Kapor Methodist yet another National Monument, the Sri spaces. These institutions span across all Church which started around the same Srinivasa Perumal Temple, with its intri- the major ethnic and religious groups in time but catered to the Straits Chinese cately carved gopuram (entrance tower) Singapore. This trail provides insights into or Peranakans. depicting a story from Hindu mythology. different religious spaces, architecture and Further down the road is the Sri Vadapa- practices found in Singapore.(Note: Most Walk up Veerasamy Road and thira Kaliamman Temple with its stepped of these institutions are open to the public across Serangoon Road to the Sri vimana (pyramid-shape tower over the but be sure to follow any instructions on Veeramakaliamman Temple which was main shrine) adorned with Hindu deities. appropriate behaviour and clothing.) originally built as a shrine by Tamil workers from the lime pits in this area. Next head up Beatty Road on to Race Start off at the beautiful Abdul Gafoor Another Hindu temple and the only North Course Road to view two Buddhist temples Mosque at Dunlop Street which is one Indian temple in Singapore, the Shree built in a completely different style. The of Singapore’s oldest mosques and a Lakshminarayan Temple is located down Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya Temple, National Monument. You may wish to the next street at Chander Road. popularly known as the “Temple of a enter the mosque for a visit and if so, do Thousand Lights”, houses a monumental remember to dress respectfully and take 15-metre tall Buddha statue while the off your shoes. Leong San See Temple, meaning “Dragon Mountain Temple”, is dedicated to Guan From here, head down Perak Road to the Then venture up Rotan Lane to view the Yin, the Goddess of Mercy. Anglican Church of the True Light which Foochow Methodist Church which devel- catered mainly to Chinese trishaw riders oped from a mission started in 1897 for during its beginnings. At the end of Perak working class immigrants from Foochow, Road, turn left onto Upper Weld Road and China. After this, walk back down to then right to Kampong Kapor Road. Serangoon Road and head towards the Angullia Mosque to take a look at its con- served 19th century entrance gatehouse. 8 Big Trails and Thrills: Little India!

The architecturally different Kampong Kapor Methodist Church which started around the same time but catered to the Straits Chinese or Peranakans. Indian traditional sweets store in Little India Arcade. Rack of earrings sold in Little India Arcade. TRAIL 3: SHOP TILL YOU DROP! 30 Minutes (not inclusive of shopping time) Little India is home to many traditional After your break, walk down the five-foot businesses that offer experiences way (or covered pedestrian walkway) that cannot be found elsewhere in along Serangoon Road and enjoy a variety Singapore. This trail offers a chance of traditional and modern shops selling to try authentic Indian food, purchase everything from clothes to knick-knacks. traditional clothing and hunt for Feel free to stop and pick up a bargain or bargains at various shops in this area. just window-shop along this stretch. Start along Campbell Lane and experience Ahead you will see the expansive Mustafa the kaleidoscope of sights, sounds and Centre, Singapore’s first 24-hour depart- smells along this street. You can visit the ment store which offers everything from Little India Arcade and enjoy some Indian diamonds, watches, electronics, clothing, sweets or have a henna design drawn on confectionery and fresh foods. Shop to your hands. Or you can head to the Jothi your heart’s content here, and when you Store & Flower Shop where locals shop start to feel tired, head across the road to for everyday Indian goods ranging from Ananda Bhavan, Singapore’s oldest Indian incense sticks to copper utensils. vegetarian restaurant, for a snack or meal. One street down at Dunlop Street is Rolls of textile frabics in many colours and designs. Haniffa Textiles which is famous for its saris and Indian clothing, and further down Serangoon Road is where you will find Komala Vilas, an Indian vegetarian fast-food restaurant established in 1947. Try their refreshing lassi or have a meal here if you’re hungry! 9

Source: NHB Kampong Glam Trail 3 Brochure Photos: Lim Sindy Sultan Mosque on a bright day. 10 The Glam that hasn’t lost its shine

The GSlahminehtahsant’t lost its The story of Kampong Glam began in 1819 when Sir Stamford Raffles (1781–1826) established a treaty between the British East India Company, Temenggong Abdul Rahman (d. 1825) and Sultan Hussein (1776–1835) to set up a trading post in Singapore. 11

Alley filled with colorful in kampong Glam with a view of Sultan Mosque. 12 The Glam that hasn’t lost its shine

Did you know that the stretch of Bussorah Street near These are just some of the stories behind Kampong Glam’s streets Masjid Sultan was once known as Kampong Kaji (Pilgrim and lanes. Steeped in history, culture and memories, Kampong Village) and the stretch nearer Beach Road was Kampong Glam is one of Singapore’s most colourful districts. It was where Tembaga (Copper Village)? Or that Arab Street was called Jawa the Malay royalty once resided, and where one of the most Koi (Java Street) by the Chinese and Pookadai sadakku (flower significant and important mosques in the country, Masjid Sultan, street) by the Tamils? Sultan Gate was lined with blacksmiths is located. It was where many diverse communities, such as the and Baghdad Street with diamond craftsmen and traders. Where Javanese, Sumatrans, Baweanese, Banjarese, Arabs, Chinese and a car park now stands along Kandahar Street, there was the Indians once called home. Though Kampong Glam is no longer Pondok Java which housed Javanese migrants and was famed a residential area today, these communities have left their mark for the Javanese theatre and arts performances it used to host. in different ways, from the buildings in the area and long-time businesses to vernacular place names. MALAY HERITAGE CENTRE 85 Sultan Gate The building housing the centre was once the residence of Alam (d. 1891), was not recognised by the British as Sultan. Malay royalty in Singapore and also referred to as “Istana However, the Malay community organised a ceremony in 1879 Kampong Gelam” (Kampong Gelam Palace). It was preceded proclaiming him as “Sultan Ala’u’din Alam Shah al Mulak by at least two istana buildings which were part of a larger (Ruler of) Johore and Muar”. walled compound that has been referred to as the kota raja (royal citadel). In 1897, the court decided in a dispute between members of the royal family that The first istana in the compound, a large the Kampong Glam property belonged timber palace with attap roofs, was to the Crown. An ordinance was then completed in 1819. Sultan Hussein stayed enacted by the British government in 1904 there for some years before moving to to provide an incomefor Sultan Hussein’s Melaka, where he passed away in 1835. descendants. The building continued to His son, Tunku Ali (1825–1877) returned serve as a residence for the family. For a to Singapore in 1840 and commissioned period of time during the 20th century, the current building, which combines it even housed a club, Kota Raja Club, traditional Malay motifs with the Palladian which regularly organised leisure activities style – a style derived from the architecture for the community in Kampong Glam. of Italian architect Andrea Palladio (1508- 1580) which was popular in England in In 1999, the government announced the 18th and 19th centuries. plans to develop a Malay Heritage Centre, which would involve conserving For years, the British refused to and redeveloping Istana Kampong acknowledge Tunku Ali as sultan. In 1855, Glam and the adjacent Gedung the Governor of the Straits Settlements Kuning. This required the residents to William Butterworth (1801– 1856) Front of the Malay Heritage Centre. relocate and a new scheme of payment negotiated a treaty between Tunku Ali to the beneficiaries was introduced. and Ibrahim (d. 1865), son of the late Restoration works were undertaken and Temenggong. Ali acquired the title of Sultan and received a the Malay Heritage Centre opened in June 2005. Further fixed allowance from the government, while acknowledging renovations were carried out between 2011 and 2012 and Ibrahim as the ruler of Johor with the exception of Muar. the redeveloped centre was launched in September 2012 by When Sultan Ali passed away in 1877, his eldest son, Tungku the Prime Minister of Singapore, Mr Lee Hsien Loong. 13

ARAB STREET Arab Street is one of the few streets in Kampong Glam that has retained its original name from the early 1800s. It was probably named as such as the area was designated for the Arab community in the 1822 town plan of Singapore. The community here, however, has always been diverse. A busy commercial area, Arab Street has been attracting traders and entrepreneurs from places such as present-day Indonesia, India, China and the Middle East since its early days. They started businesses ranging from eating houses, rattan shops and goldsmiths to textile shops, money changers, bookshops and printing presses. Today, a number of shops on this street, such as H. Hashim bin H. Abdullah, a bookstore opened in the early 1900s, are still run by the descendants of pioneers who came here decades ago. Ceramic bowls and flower shape tiles sold along Arab Street. To locals, this road was more commonly referred to as Kampong Java by the Malays or Jawa koi (Java Street) by the Chinese. For a long time, Arab Street was largely populated by the Javanese. They were engaged in various occupations such as running eating houses and food stalls, and selling goods such as fruit and Javanese leaf cigarettes. Javanese women also set up stalls to sell flowers along the five foot way, giving rise to the Tamil nickname, pookadei sadakku (flower street). Over time, however, the Javanese presence gradually diminished in this area due to factors such as the redevelopment of Kampong Glam, leading to resettlement of the original residents. Arab Street is one of the few Bundles of frabic with gold embriodery detail. streets in Kampong Glam that has retained its original name from the early 1800s. 14 The Glam that hasn’t lost its shine

Colourful batik-like pattern frabic from one of the many textile shops. 15

Source: URA Chinatown Trail Brochure 2017 Photos: Lim Sindy View of busy street in Chinatown. 16 Always Buzzing, Always Chinatown

BCAuhlwzaizysninagt,oAlwwaysn The Historic District of Chinatown comprises four distinct sub-districts: Telok Ayer, Kreta Ayer, Bukit Pasoh and Tanjong Pagar. Together with the other precincts south of the Singapore River, they made up what was known colloquially as the Greater Town (or Da Po) of Singapore. Because of its architectural, historical and social importance, the area was given conservation status on 7 July 1989. Take a walk and learn why this area is cherished by so many Singaporeans! 17

The Majestic view from a bridge. The Majestic sign. Former SIT building in the evening. Heart shape cutouts below windows. The origin of Chinatown is linked to Sir Stamford Raffles. In 1822, he formed a Town Planning Committee to plan Singapore Town according to ethnic groups. The area south of the Singapore River was allocated by sectors to Chinese and Indian immigrants of the same provincial origin and language groups. The Chinese immigrants came mostly from the south- eastern coastal provinces of China. Hokkiens formed the majority, followed by the Teochews, Cantonese, Hainanese, Hakkas and Foochows. The South Indians also found their niche in this area, though subsequently the centre of Indian commer- cial and cultural life moved to Serangoon Road. Each group has left its mark on street names and places of worship. Hokkiens formed the majority, followed by the Teochews, Cantonese, Hainanese, Hakkas and Foochows. Former great southern hotel now known as Yue Hwa building. 18 Always Buzzing, Always Chinatown

Entrance of Jamae (Chulia) Mosque. Former Lai Chun Yuen in the evening. KRETA AYER 3. Former S.I.T. Government Quarters 5. Sri Mariamman Temple 42 to 50 Mosque Street, 175 to 189 242 South Bridge Road The Malay name Kreta Ayer (or Niu Che New Bridge Road and 38 to 64 Upper Established in 1827, this is Singapore’s Shui) comes from the ox-drawn water Cross Street oldest Hindu temple. It was founded carts that used to deliver water to the area. The predecessor to the Housing and by Narayana Pillay, the Tamil pioneer In the 19th century, this predominantly Development Board was the Singapore who accompanied Raffles to Singapore. Cantonese area was known for round-the- Improvement Trust (SIT), set up in 1927 The temple is dedicated to the goddess clock entertainment with a concentration by the colonial government to solve Mariamman and the original statue of the of teahouses, opera theatres and brothels. Singapore’s chronic housing problems. deity installed by Pillay still stands in its Today it is best known for its Chinese These four-storey reinforced concrete principal shrine. This temple gave name to New Year and Mid-Autumn celebrations, buildings were built in the 1930s to house Temple Street and Pagoda Street, and was street market and bustling atmosphere. Customs workers. Take a close look at gazetted as a National Monument in 1973. the timber parapet behind each window; 1. Former Great Southern Hotel on each are two heart-shaped cut outs. 6. Former Coolie Quarters 70 Eu Tong Sen Street 37 Pagoda Street This former hotel was designed by 4. Jamae (Chulia) Mosque Most coolies came from southern China in architectural firm Swan & Maclaren and 218 South Bridge Road search of better job prospects but upon was once regarded as the Raffles Hotel One of the oldest mosques in Singapore, arrival were sold off as indentured of Chinatown. Popular with high society Jamae Mosque was completed in 1835 labourers. Those who were not including celebrities from Hong Kong and by the Chulias who hailed from southern immediately auctioned off were kept China, it was once the tallest building in India’s Coromandel Coast. It boasts an in cramped and sordid quarters. This the area and was the first Chinese hotel eclectic mix of Chinese, Anglo-Indian and shophouse is believed to be the former in Singapore to boast a lift service. Malay architecture, of which the most premises of Kwong Hup Yuen, one of the significant feature is its South Indian style most infamous coolie firms. 2. Former Majestic Theater front entrance comprising of two minarets 80 Eu Tong Sen Street flanking a miniature palace façade. It was 7. Former Lai Chun Yuen This was originally a Cantonese opera gazetted in 1974 as a National Monument. 25 Trengganu Street house built by philanthropist Eu Tong Built in 1887, this three-storey former Sen in 1927 for his wife after she was theatre building with unique cantilevering reportedly refused admittance to an opera wooden balconies was the centre of performance elsewhere. A highlight of entertainment in Kreta Ayer until it was this Art Deco building is its decorated badly damaged during World War II. Its façade of hand-painted tiles depicting popularity was such that surrounding opera characters and flying dragons. streets were colloquially named afterthe theatre itself; Smith Street was Theater Street, Temple Street was Theater Rear Street, and Trengganu Street was Theater Side Street. 19

Eu Yang Sang on a vey hot day. Siang Cho Keong during the day. TELOK AYER Telok Ayer, Malay for Water Bay, is the oldest sub-district. It started to develop in the 1820s and remained as the key Chinese commercial district until the late 19th century. The population in this area was predominantly Hokkien. The area is often associated with the laid-back atmosphere of Ann Siang Hill, and the religious buildings along Telok Ayer Street. 8. EU YAN SANG Stretch of Clan and Trade Associatons. 267 to 271 South Bridge Road Built in 1910, this is the first Eu Yan Sang outlet in Singapore set up by Eu Tong Sen. Besides dealing in the retail of traditional Chinese medicine, it used to offer money remittance services to China. The building was designed by Alfred Bidwell from the firm Swan & Maclaren. He was also responsible for the design of the Raffles Hotel and Victoria Memorial Hall. 9. Clan and Trade Associations 10. Siang Cho Keong 11. Nagore Dargah Indian Muslim Ann Siang Road and Club Street 66 Amoy Street Heritage Centre Clan and trade associations were This temple was completed in 1869 and 140 Telok Ayer Street important institutions for mutual built in the Hokkien style, where the ends Originally known as Shahul Hamid assistance in 19th and early 20th century of the curved roof ridge sweeps outwards Durgha and dedicated to the memory of Singapore as they helped new immigrants like swallow tails and the clay roof tiles are a holy man, Shahul Hamid of Nagore, from China settle down and looked after not glazed. Its foundation plaque records the former shrine was built by Chulias their welfare. Along Ann Siang Road that it was located on this site because of from southern India between 1828 and and Club Street are numerous clan and its good feng shui (geomancy) properties 1830. On the upper part of the façade trade associations where stepping into as it used to front the sea and behind it are niches, where oil lamps can be one, time seems to stand still. Some still stands Ann Siang Hill. placed within them to illuminate the retain their meeting halls filled with building on festive days. It was gazetted portraits of members from the past and as a National Monument in 1974. centuryold furniture. Some of these associations can be found at 17 (Ching Yoon Wooi Kwoon) and 25 Ann Siang Road (Kwong Wai Siew Li Si She Shut), and 84 Club Street (Nam Sun Wui Kun). 20 Always Buzzing, Always Chinatown

Chinese Methodist Church amongst office towers. Thian Hock Keng Temple in the late afternoon. Sign at the main entrence of Thian Hock Keng Temple read as ‘tian fu gong’. Nagore Dargah Indian Muslim Heritage Centre next to Thian Hock Keng temple. 12. Thian Hock Keng 13. Al-Abrar Mosque 14. Telok Ayer Chinese 158 Telok Ayer Street 192 Telok Ayer Street Methodist Church This is one of Singapore’s oldest and most Also known as Kuchu Palli, Tamil for 235 Telok Ayer Street important temple for immigrants from Mosque Hut, it was originally a thatched Designed by Swan & Maclaren and built southern China’s Fujian province. Com- hut believed to have been erected not long by a French firm, Bross & Mogin in 1924, pleted in 1842 and standing on what used after 1827. The present building was built this was the first Chinese Methodist to be the shoreline, it is dedicated to the between 1850 and 1855 and declared a Church in Singapore. It features upturned worship of Ma Zu Po, the Goddess of the National Monument in 1974. Unlike the roof eaves; a reference to traditional Sea. While most of the building materials Jamae Mosque along South Bridge Road, Chinese architecture and the community came from China, the temple incorporates this mosque is able to conform to the street that it serves. In 1989, the church was cast-iron railings from Scotland and tiles grid while facing Mecca. gazetted as a National Monument. from England and Holland. In 1973, it was gazetted as a National Monument. Its restoration in 2001 gained an honorable mention from UNESCO. 21

BUKIT PASOH 18. Cundhi Gong 13 Keong Saik Road Bukit Pasoh was developed at the turn of the 20th century as This was founded in 1928 for the worship of the 18-arm an extension of the already densely populated Telok Ayer and Cundhi Bodhisattva. It is a purpose-built temple built in the Kreta Ayer areas. Its name means Pot Hill in Malay, referring to Nanyang style which is a hybrid between Chinese and shophouse its origins as a place where earthen pots were made. Its charm lies architecture. On the roof ridge, cut porcelain pieces are used to in its gently sloping and curving streets fronted by shophouses form dragons, phoenixes, birds and flowers. The timber trusses that house a mixture of institutional and commercial activities. over the five-foot way feature traditional paintings and its exterior walls are adorned with hand-painted tiles. 15. Poon Yue Association 281 New Bridge Road 19. Ee Hoe Hean Club The association was founded in 1879 at Upper Cross Street with 43 Bukit Pasoh Road financial assistance from Hoo Ah Kay, a well known community The club was founded in 1895 by a group of Hokkien community leader from Whampoa district in Guangdong province. The leaders for the wealthy Chinese elite. More than a social and association relocated to New Bridge Road in 1917. The building is business club, its members were actively involved in the political a hybrid of Neo-Classical and Art Deco styles which were popular development of China in the early 20th century. It supported with Chinese developers in the past who wanted to project a the 1911 Xinhai Revolution which overthrew the Qing Dynasty, modern image. To the Chinese, New Bridge Road was colloquially leading to the establishment of the Republic of China. During referred to as Da Po Er Ma Lu, Mandarin for Greater Town’s World War II, it was the headquarters of the anti-Japanese China Second Road. The first road referred to in this instance was South Salvation Movement in Southeast Asia. The ground floor Pioneers’ Bridge Road. Gallery is open for visit and entry is free. 16. Sri Layan Sithi Vinayagar Temple 20. Chin Kang Huay Kuan 73 Keong Saik Road 29 Bukit Pasoh Road This Hindu temple was built in 1925 by Nattukkottai Chettiars, a This association was established in 1918 by immigrants from noted money lending community from Tamil Nadu and dedicated Jinjiang County in southern Fujian, China. The current building to Ganesha, the elephantheaded god. It is an important stop for contrasts with its ornately decorated neighbours. The use of the annual Silver Chariot Procession where the deity Murugan is straight lines, concrete ledges and mild steel framed windows is taken on a procession from the Sri Thendayuthapani Temple in typical of the Modern style that was popular from the 1950s to Tank Road. The temple was given the name Layan Sithi as it was the early 1970s. During World War II, the building was used by originally located at the old Sepoy Lines where Indian soldiers, the Overseas Chinese General Mobilisation Council which known as Sepoys, used to be housed. helped the British in supplying labourers and volunteers for the defence of Singapore. 17. Kong Chow Wui Koon 321 New Bridge Road It is a purpose-built temple built This Cantonese clan association was established in 1839 at in the Nanyang style which is Upper Chin Chew Street and moved in 1924 to the present a hybrid between Chinese and building, designed by Westerhout & Oman. During the Japanese shophouse architecture. Occupation, the custodians volunteered the building as a clinic and hence its antique interiors remained intact. The association is well known for its lion dance troupe and martial arts. This is one of Chinatown’s first community museums and entry is free. Cundhi Gong on a hot day. 22 Always Buzzing, Always Chinatown

Bright and Colourful Sri Layan Sithi Vinayagar Temple. 23

Former Jing Hwa Cinema is now Fairfield Methodist Church. 24 Always Buzzing, Always Chinatown

Jinrikisha Station under construction. TANGJONG PAGAR 21. Jinrikisha Station 22. Former Jing Hwa Cinema 1 Neil Road 1 Tanjong Pagar Road The building was built in 1903 by the Municipal Together with the Majestic and the Oriental, Jing Council as the administration centre for rickshaws, Hwa Cinema, built in 1958, was one of Chinatown’s a form of transportation imported from Japan via three famous cinemas. It was designed by local Shanghai in the 1880s. It is of the Edwardian style, architect Wong Foo Nam in the Modern style and where the exposed brickwork is contrasted with was the first to have a basement carpark and white plaster mouldings. Look out for the crest extensive floor-to-ceiling windows. It is remembered of the Municipal Council at the front of fondly by many as the venue of romantic first dates the building, featuring a lion standing and holiday treats. on an island with a palm tree. It is of the Edwardian style, where the exposed brickwork is contrasted with white plaster mouldings. 25

MpoThaedsetrn Singapore is a melting pot of cultures. Despite her cosmopolitan status, many heritage trails reveal that traditional crafts and products of these cultures are aplenty in her midst. Visual influences from the diverse heritage co-exist bountifully and they give the place an unique blend which is hard to be expressed in words. See them for yourself! A part of Chinatown amongst many office towers in the evening. 26 The Modern Past

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Shop selling Porcelain tea cups. Colourful lucky knot tassels. Colourful owl lucky knot tassels. Shops along one of the Chinatown streets. 28 The Modern Past: Chinatown

Pretty coconut shell bows with designs inside. Traditonal engraved name stamps made of stone. Wooden abstract looking animals figures. Different types of lanterns sold at a small store along Temple Street. 29

Colourful mini elephants ornaments sold along Campbell lane. Festive decor filled along Campbell Lane. 30 The Modern Past: Little India & Kampong Glam

Bangles sold in a store in Little India Arcade. Turkish style lamps sold along Arab Street. Ceramic Figures, bowls and plates spotting colourful patterns. Alley way near the Sultan Mosque in Kampong Glam. 31

Lim Sindy 19***** DXCD/FT/1B/04