TrangPhucTruyenThongCuaCacDanTocVietNam

["keo t\u01a1 secirine tan ra m\u1ed9t ph\u1ea7n, k\u00e9n m\u1ec1m v\u00e0 d\u1ec5 d\u00e0ng r\u00fat th\u00e0nh s\u1ee3i. K\u00e9n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c th\u1ea3 v\u00e0o n\u1ed3i n\u01b0\u1edbc s\u00f4i hay ch\u1ea3o mi\u1ec7ng r\u1ed9ng. Ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta \u0111\u1ea3o k\u00e9n th\u00e0nh t\u1eebng nh\u00f3m n\u1ed5i tr\u00ean m\u1eb7t n\u01b0\u1edbc, t\u00ecm m\u1ed1i t\u01a1 g\u1ed1c r\u00fat ra, qu\u1ea5n v\u00e0o nh\u1eefng con su\u1ed1t, h\u00ecnh gi\u1ed1ng nh\u01b0 l\u00f5i \u1ed1ng ch\u1ec9, x\u1ebfp th\u1eb3ng \u0111\u1ee9ng th\u00e0nh h\u00e0ng ngang, r\u1ed3i cho ch\u1ea1y v\u00e0o nh\u1eefng gu\u1ed3ng t\u01a1 tr\u00f2n b\u1eb1ng g\u1ed7, n\u1eb1m b\u1eafc ngang tr\u00ean n\u1ed3i n\u01b0\u1edbc s\u00f4i v\u00e0 k\u00e9o h\u1ebft t\u01a1 \u1edf m\u1ed7i c\u00e1i k\u00e9n l\u00e0m th\u00e0nh con t\u01a1. Ph\u1ea7n c\u00f2n l\u1ea1i, l\u1edbp trong c\u1ee7a k\u00e9n c\u0169ng cho v\u00e0o gu\u1ed3ng \u01b0\u01a1m t\u01a1 quay v\u00e0o \u1ed1ng l\u1ea5y t\u01a1 n\u00f5n m\u00e0u v\u00e0ng nh\u1ea1t, s\u1ee3i nh\u1ecf ph\u00eda trong c\u1ee7a k\u00e9n. S\u1ee3i t\u01a1 n\u00e0y g\u1ed3m hai s\u1ee3i nh\u1ecf, ti\u1ebft ra t\u1eeb c\u1eb7p tuy\u1ebfn t\u01a1 \u1edf t\u1eb1m ch\u00edn v\u00e0 d\u00e1n ch\u1eb7t v\u00e0o nhau, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c bao ph\u1ee7 b\u1edfi m\u1ed9t l\u1edbp keo (sericin), ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta ph\u1ea3i t\u1ea9y s\u1ea1ch l\u1edbp keo n\u00e0y khi k\u00e9o t\u01a1. N\u1ebfu k\u00e9n c\u1eafn t\u1ed5, kh\u00f4ng th\u1ec3 \u01b0\u01a1m t\u01a1 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c th\u00ec ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta k\u00e9o th\u00e0nh s\u1ee3i \u0111\u0169i. C\u00e1ch k\u00e9o s\u1ee3i \u0111\u0169i nh\u01b0 sau: K\u00e9n \u0111em ng\u00e2m n\u01b0\u1edbc 3 gi\u1edd, v\u1eaft s\u1ea1ch n\u01b0\u1edbc (n\u01b0\u1edbc ng\u00e2m v\u00e0 v\u1eaft t\u1eeb n\u01b0\u1edbc k\u00e9n ra g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 n\u01b0\u1edbc c\u1ed1t, n\u01b0\u1edbc n\u00e0y ph\u1ea3i gi\u1eef l\u1ea1i \u0111\u1ec3 sau ng\u00e2m k\u00e9n l\u1ea7n n\u1eefa]. B\u1ecf k\u00e9n v\u00e0o n\u1ed3i \u0111un s\u00f4i v\u00e0i ph\u00fat, th\u1ea5y k\u00e9n th\u00e2m \u0111\u1ec1u l\u00e0 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c. K\u00e9n lu\u1ed9c xong, v\u1eaft ki\u1ec7t n\u01b0\u1edbc th\u1ea3 v\u00e0o n\u1ed3i n\u01b0\u1edbc c\u1ed1t, ng\u00e2m m\u1ed9t \u0111\u00eam th\u00ec k\u00e9n ch\u00edn, k\u00e9n ch\u00edn v\u1eeba k\u00e9o tr\u01a1n v\u00e0 nh\u1eb9 tay. Ng\u01b0\u1eddi k\u00e9o s\u1ee3i ng\u1ed3i tr\u00ean gh\u1ebf th\u1ea5p, tr\u01b0\u1edbc m\u1ed9t c\u00e1i ch\u1eadu s\u00e0nh \u0111\u1ea7y n\u01b0\u1edbc v\u00e0 k\u00e9n, hai tay ng\u00e2m trong n\u01b0\u1edbc \u0111\u1ec3 k\u00e9o s\u1ee3i. K\u00e9o xong m\u1ed9t m\u1ebb, ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta d\u00f9ng gi\u1eb1ng s\u1ee3i cu\u1ed9n l\u1ea1i th\u00e0nh t\u1eebng con, cho l\u00ean s\u00e0o ph\u01a1i. Th\u00e0nh ph\u1ea9m n\u00e0y \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c d\u1ec7t th\u00e0nh l\u1ee5a \u0111\u0169i. L\u1ee5a \u0111\u0169i to, x\u1ed1p, m\u1ec1m, nh\u1eb9. Ri\u00eang t\u01a1 n\u00f5n s\u1ebd \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c se v\u1edbi nhau, t\u00f9y theo t\u00ednh ch\u1ea5t, s\u1ed1 l\u01b0\u1ee3ng s\u1ee3i v\u00e0 v\u00f2ng xo\u1eafn \u0111\u1ec3 m\u1eafc c\u1eedi r\u1ed3i d\u1ec7t th\u00e0nh c\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i h\u00e0ng v\u1ea3i kh\u00e1c nhau. 10 l \u00ec","T\u01a1 t\u1eb1m \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c cu\u1ed9n l\u1ea1i th\u00e0nh nh\u1eefng n\u00e9n t\u01a1 ho\u1eb7c \u1ed1ng t\u01a1. T\u00f9y theo ch\u1ea5t l\u01b0\u1ee3ng t\u01a1, c\u00e1ch x\u1eed l\u00fd s\u1ee3i t\u01a1 v\u00e0 c\u00e1ch xo\u1eafn s\u1ee3i t\u01a1, s\u1ebd cho ra nh\u1eefng lo\u1ea1i t\u01a1 v\u1edbi t\u00ean g\u1ecdi v\u00e0 ch\u1ea5t l\u01b0\u1ee3ng kh\u00e1c nhau. S\u1ee3i m\u1ed1t: L\u00e0 s\u1ee3i t\u01a1 to, d\u00f9ng \u0111\u1ec3 d\u1ec7t d\u1ecdc, d\u1ec7t kh\u00f4ng b\u1ecb \u0111\u1ee9t. S\u1ee3i m\u00e0nh: L\u00e0 s\u1ee3i t\u01a1 nh\u1ecf, d\u00f9ng \u0111\u1ec3 d\u1ec7t ngang, l\u1ee5a \u0111\u00eau, kh\u00f4ng b\u1ecb ch\u1ed7 d\u00e0y ch\u1ed7 m\u1ecfng. S\u1ee3i \u0111\u0169i: L\u00e0 s\u1ee3i c\u1ee7a k\u00e9n c\u1eafn t\u1ed5, kh\u00f4ng \u01b0\u01a1m t\u01a1 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c, x\u00f9 x\u00ec, th\u00f4 h\u01a1n. T\u1eeb c\u00e1c s\u1ee3i t\u01a1 tr\u00ean, t\u00f9y theo c\u00e1ch d\u1ec7t, ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta c\u00f3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c nh\u1eefng lo\u1ea1i t\u01a1 l\u1ee5a kh\u00e1c nhau. Ki\u1ec3u d\u1ec7t c\u1ed5 truy\u1ec1n c\u1ee7a Vi\u1ec7t Nam l\u00e0 ph\u1ed1i h\u1ee3p, pha tr\u1ed9n c\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i s\u1ee3i d\u1ecdc v\u00e0 ngang \u0111\u1ec3 t\u1ea1o ra nh\u1eefng m\u1eb7t h\u00e0ng kh\u00e1c nhau. Ng\u01b0\u1eddi th\u1ee3 khi d\u1ec7t ph\u1ea3i d\u00f9ng tay \u0111\u01b0a, ch\u00e2n d\u1eadn c\u00f9ng l\u00fac. D\u1ee5ng c\u1ee5 d\u1ec7t l\u00e0 khung c\u1eedi g\u1ed7 \\\"con c\u00f2\\\", d\u1ec7t ra lo\u1ea1i h\u00e0ng vu\u00f4ng, th\u00f4, m\u1ecfng, ch\u1eebng 40 hay 60cm. Con c\u00f2 \u0111\u1eb7t \u1edf tr\u00ean v\u00e0 ch\u00ednh gi\u1eefa khung d\u1ec7t \u0111\u1ebf th\u1eb3ng s\u1ee3i, l\u00e0m chu\u1ea9n cho c\u00e1i go kh\u1ecfi l\u1ec7ch. Nh\u1eefng vu\u00f4ng l\u1ee5a m\u1edbi d\u1ec7t xong g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 l\u1ee5a m\u1ed9c, ch\u1ec9 c\u00f3 m\u00e0u tr\u1eafng ng\u00e0 hay v\u00e0ng m\u1ee1 g\u00e0 c\u1ee7a t\u01a1. Theo ph\u01b0\u01a1ng ph\u00e1p th\u1ee7 c\u00f4ng, l\u1ee5a m\u1ed9c \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ng\u00e2m trong n\u01b0\u1edbc tr\u00e0, n\u01b0\u1edbc tr\u1ea7u kh\u00f4ng, nh\u1ef1a c\u00e2y... r\u1ed3i x\u1ea3, nhu\u1ed9m m\u00e0u, ph\u01a1i kh\u00f4, nhu\u1ed9m l\u1ea1i l\u1ea7n th\u1ee9 hai \u0111\u1ec3 ra \u0111\u00fang m\u00e0u s\u1eafc nh\u01b0 \u00fd mu\u1ed1n. M\u00e0u nhu\u1ed9m \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c pha ch\u1ebf v\u1edbi nguy\u00ean li\u1ec7u ho\u00e0n to\u00e0n t\u1ef1 nhi\u00ean nh\u01b0 h\u1ed9t d\u00e0nh d\u00e0nh (Gardenia augusta, ti\u1ebfng H\u00e1n l\u00e0 Chi t\u1eed], l\u00e1 b\u00e0ng [Terminalia catappa, ti\u1ebfng H\u00e1n l\u00e0 L\u00e3m nh\u00e2n th\u1ee5) than, g\u1ea1ch... M\u00e0u th\u00f4ng d\u1ee5ng l\u00e0 m\u00e0u \u0111en (th\u00e2m) ri02","v\u00e0 m\u00e0u n\u00e2u. Ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta nhu\u1ed9m n\u00e2u b\u1eb1ng c\u1ee7 n\u00e2u (Dioscorea cirrhosa - Evergreen yam). C\u1ee7 n\u00e2u \u0111em v\u1ec1, g\u1ecdt v\u1ecf, th\u00e1i m\u1ecfng, gi\u00e3 cho ch\u1ea3y nh\u1ef1a, \u0111\u1ed5 th\u00eam n\u01b0\u1edbc m\u00e0 nhu\u1ed9m. Nhu\u1ed9m v\u00e0i n\u01b0\u1edbc th\u00ec \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u00e0u n\u00e2u non, nhi\u1ec1u n\u01b0\u1edbc th\u00ec c\u00f3 m\u00e0u n\u00e2u gi\u00e0 (n\u00e2u \u0111\u1eadm). Nhu\u1ed9m b\u1eb1ng c\u1ee7 n\u00e2u v\u1eeba b\u1ec1n m\u00e0u l\u1ea1i v\u1eeba ch\u1eafc s\u1ee3i. Ng\u00e2m t\u01a1 v\u00e0o n\u01b0\u1edbc b\u00f9n s\u1ebd cho ra m\u00e0u th\u00e2m - m\u00e0u tam giang - g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 m\u00e0u n\u00e2u t\u00edm. Ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta c\u00f2n d\u00f9ng c\u00e1nh ki\u1ebfn (m\u1ed9t lo\u1ea1i s\u00e2u \u1edf m\u1ea1n S\u01a1n La, Lai Ch\u00e2u) \u0111\u1ec3 nhu\u1ed9m m\u00e0u n\u00e2u \u0111\u1ecf. N\u1ebfu \u0111\u1ec3 l\u1ee5a m\u1ed9c m\u00e0u tr\u1eafng, ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta ch\u1ec9 c\u1ea7n chu\u00f4i (tr\u1ee5ng n\u01b0\u1edbc s\u00f4i). C\u00f3 n\u01a1i ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta c\u00f2n d\u00f9ng qu\u1ea3 m\u1eb7c n\u01b0a - gi\u1ed1ng nh\u01b0 qu\u1ea3 olive, khi ch\u01b0a ch\u00edn m\u00e0u xanh, khi ch\u00edn chuy\u1ec3n m\u00e0u \u0111en \u0111\u1ec3 nhu\u1ed9m l\u1ee5a \u0111en, ch\u1eb3ng h\u1ea1n l\u1ee5a \u0111en T\u00e2n Ch\u00e2u (l\u00e3nh M\u1ef9 A). Ng\u00e0y nay, k\u1ef9 thu\u1eadt nhu\u1ed9m hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i \u0111em l\u1ea1i cho l\u1ee5a t\u01a1 t\u1eb1m nh\u1eefng m\u00e0u s\u1eafc \u0111a d\u1ea1ng v\u00e0 r\u1ef1c r\u1ee1 h\u01a1n, nh\u01b0ng nh\u1eefng m\u00e0u s\u1eafc m\u1ed9c m\u1ea1c thi\u00ean nhi\u00ean v\u1eabn \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ng\u01b0\u1eddi Vi\u1ec7t \u01b0a th\u00edch. V\u1edbi s\u1ef1 tinh t\u1ebf v\u00e0 s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o kh\u00f4ng ng\u1eebng, c\u00e1c s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m d\u1ec7t t\u1eeb t\u01a1 t\u1eb1m c\u1ee7a ng\u01b0\u1eddi Vi\u1ec7t r\u1ea5t phong ph\u00fa, \u0111a d\u1ea1ng g\u1ed3m l\u1ee5a, l\u00e0, g\u1ea5m, v\u00f3c, v\u00e2n, the, l\u0129nh, b\u0103ng, sa, xuy\u1ebfn, \u0111o\u1ea1n, nhi\u1ec5u, \u0111\u0169i, c\u1ea5p, k\u1ef3 c\u1ea7u... G\u1ea5m: N\u1ec1n d\u00e0y, b\u00f3ng. N\u1ec1n g\u1ea5m th\u01b0\u1eddng c\u00f3 hoa v\u0103n ch\u1eef tri\u1ec7n hay ch\u1eef th\u1ecd v\u1edbi s\u1eafc m\u00e0u t\u01b0\u01a1i, s\u1eb7c s\u1ee1 b\u1eb1ng kim tuy\u1ebfn, ng\u00e2n tuy\u1ebfn \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c d\u1ec7t nh\u01b0 th\u00eau. M\u1ed9t t\u1ea5m g\u1ea5m th\u01b0\u1eddng c\u00f3 nhi\u1ec1u m\u00e0u, ph\u1ed5 bi\u1ebfn l\u00e0 n\u0103m m\u00e0u: xanh, \u0111\u1ecf, t\u00edm, v\u00e0ng, tr\u1eafng hay b\u1ea3y m\u00e0u, g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 g\u1ea5m ng\u0169 th\u1ec3 hay th\u1ea5t th\u1ec3. Do s\u1ee3i ngang (t\u1ea1o hoa n\u1ed5i l\u00ean tr\u00ean) v\u00e0 s\u1ee3i d\u1ecdc (t\u1ea1o n\u1ec1n ch\u00ecm \u1edf d\u01b0\u1edbi) \u0111\u1ec1u \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c nhu\u1ed9m m\u00e0u n\u00ean khi c\u00f3 \u00e1nh s\u00e1ng, \u0111\u1ee9ng \u1edf m\u1ed7i g\u00f3c c\u1ea1nh kh\u00e1c nhau, s\u1ebd th\u1ea5y g\u1ea5m c\u00f3 c\u00e1c m\u00e0u s\u1eafc kh\u00e1c nhau. G\u1ea5m c\u00f3 v\u1ebb \u0111\u1eb9p l\u1ed9ng l\u1eaby, r\u1ef1c r\u1ee1 n\u00ean ng\u00e0y x\u01b0a d\u00e2n 103)","th\u01b0\u1eddng kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c d\u00f9ng, ch\u1ec9 c\u00f3 vua, quan \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c d\u00f9ng m\u00e0 th\u00f4i. Vua m\u1eb7c g\u1ea5m v\u00e0ng c\u00f3 hai r\u1ed3ng ch\u1ea7u m\u1eb7t nguy\u1ec7t hay h\u1ed5 ph\u00f9. C\u00f2n g\u1ea5m may l\u1ec5 ph\u1ee5c cho c\u00e1c quan th\u01b0\u1eddng l\u00e0 g\u1ea5m hoa tr\u00f2n hay g\u1ea5m hoa b\u1ea1c. V\u00e2n: L\u00e0 m\u1eb7t h\u00e0ng x\u1ebfp th\u1ee9 nh\u00ec sau g\u1ea5m. H\u00e0ng v\u00e2n c\u00f3 n\u1ec1n l\u1ee5a, m\u1ecfng, bao gi\u1edd c\u0169ng c\u00f3 hai ki\u00eau hoa d\u1ec7t tr\u00ean m\u1ed9t t\u1ea5m v\u00e2n: hoa n\u1ed5i v\u00e0 hoa ch\u00ecm. Hoa n\u1ed5i b\u00f3ng m\u1ecbn, c\u00f2n hoa ch\u00ecm ph\u1ea3i \u0111\u01b0a l\u00ean \u00e1nh s\u00e1ng m\u1edbi th\u1ea5y \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c. \u0110\u00f3 l\u00e0 n\u00e9t \u0111\u1ed9c \u0111\u00e1o c\u1ee7a h\u00e0ng v\u00e2n, nh\u1edd c\u00f3 hoa th\u1ee7ng nh\u01b0 v\u1eady, n\u00ean c\u00e1c \u00e1o l\u00f3t b\u00ean trong s\u1ebd n\u1ed5i m\u00e0u l\u00ean r\u1ea5t \u0111\u1eb9p khi m\u1eb7c \u00e1o ngo\u00e0i may b\u1eb1ng v\u00e2n. V\u00e2n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c d\u00f9ng \u0111\u1ec3 may \u00e1o d\u00e0i m\u1eb7c v\u00e0o d\u1ecbp h\u1ed9i h\u00e8, \u0111\u00ecnh \u0111\u00e1m. L\u0129nh (l\u00e3nh): S\u1ee3i m\u1ecbn, m\u1ed9t m\u1eb7t b\u00f3ng, m\u1ed9t m\u1eb7t m\u1edd do khi d\u1ec7t \u0111\u01b0a s\u1ee3i d\u1ecdc l\u00ean nhi\u1ec1u t\u1ea1o n\u00ean s\u1ef1 b\u00f3ng l\u00e1ng. L\u0129nh th\u00e2m (\u0111en) tr\u01a1n r\u1ea5t th\u00f4ng d\u1ee5ng, d\u00f9ng may v\u00e1y, qu\u1ea7n cho ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef, ngo\u00e0i l\u0129nh tr\u01a1n c\u00f2n c\u00f3 l\u0129nh hoa d\u1ea7y d\u1eb7n, \u0111i\u1ec3m l\u1ea5m t\u1ea5m hoa m\u1ecbn m\u00e0ng, k\u00edn \u0111\u00e1o, c\u00f3 t\u00ean ri\u00eang l\u00e0 l\u0129nh hoa chanh, n\u1ed5i ti\u1ebfng nh\u1ea5t l\u00e0 l\u0129nh B\u01b0\u1edfi \u0111en nh\u00e1nh, \u00f3ng m\u01b0\u1ee3t. \u0110o\u1ea1n: \u0110o\u1ea1n c\u0169ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c d\u1ec7t theo c\u00e1ch th\u1ee9c c\u1ee7a l\u0129nh, nh\u01b0ng d\u00e0y h\u01a1n, s\u1ee3i d\u1ecdc nhi\u1ec1u h\u01a1n c\u1ea3 g\u1ea5m. \u0110\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t, s\u1ee3i d\u1ecdc, s\u1ee3i ngang n\u1ed5i \u0111\u1ec1u nhau, m\u1ecbn m\u00e0ng, \u00f3ng \u1ea3. \u0110o\u1ea1n d\u00f9ng \u0111\u1ec3 may \u00e1o d\u00e0i cho nam gi\u1edbi m\u1eb7c v\u00e0o nh\u1eefng d\u1ecbp long tr\u1ecdng. Do h\u00e0ng \u0111o\u1ea1n d\u00e0y n\u00ean ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta th\u01b0\u1eddng may \u00e1o \u0111o\u1ea1n b\u1ecdc l\u1ee5a b\u00ean trong m\u1eb7c v\u00e0o m\u00f9a l\u1ea1nh. V\u00f3c; L\u00e0 m\u1ed9t th\u1ee9 \u0111o\u1ea1n m\u1ecfng, c\u00f3 hoa, d\u1ec7t b\u1eb1ng s\u1ee3i \u0111\u1ed3ng m\u00e0u, d\u00f9ng l\u00e0m t\u00e1n th\u1edd th\u1ea7n hay may y ph\u1ee5c cho vua ch\u00faa, quan l\u1ea1i. V\u00f3c th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111i chung v\u1edbi g\u1ea5m: g\u1ea5m v\u00f3c. The: S\u1ee3i d\u1ec7t b\u00f3ng v\u00e0 m\u1ea3nh, s\u1ee3i d\u1ecdc r\u1ea5t \u00edt n\u00ean the th\u01b0a. D\u1ec7t the l\u00e0 b\u1ed1 tr\u00ed c\u00e1c s\u1ee3i d\u1ecdc v\u00e0 ngang kh\u00f4ng kh\u00edt nhau, t\u1ea1o","n\u00ean h\u00ecnh th\u1ee7ng theo h\u00e0ng ngang. The c\u00f3 nhi\u1ec1u lo\u1ea1i: the \u0111\u01a1n (m\u1ecfng], the k\u00e9p (d\u1ea7y] v\u00e0 the hoa. The \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c nhu\u1ed9m th\u00e2m \u0111\u1ec3 may \u00e1o m\u1eb7c b\u00ean ngo\u00e0i, hay chu\u00f4i cho tr\u1eafng \u0111\u1ec3 m\u1eb7c m\u00f9a n\u00f3ng, n\u1ed5i ti\u1ebfng nh\u1ea5t l\u00e0 the La C\u1ea3. \u0110\u1ed1i v\u1edbi d\u00e2n th\u01b0\u1eddng, \u00e1o the \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c coi l\u00e0 sang v\u00e0 r\u1ea5t ph\u1ed5 bi\u1ebfn. Nh\u1eefng h\u00e0ng the d\u00f9ng may y ph\u1ee5c t\u1ebf l\u1ec5 g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 h\u00e0ng \u0111\u1ecba, th\u01b0\u1eddng c\u00f3 hoa v\u0103n \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t nh\u01b0 song h\u1ea1c, h\u1ed5 ph\u00f9, th\u1ee7y ba g\u1ee3n s\u00f3ng. Sa, xuy\u1ebfn, b\u0103ng c\u0169ng t\u1ef1a nh\u01b0 the, l\u00e0 c\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i h\u00e0ng m\u1ecfng, b\u00f3ng v\u00e0 b\u1ec1n v\u00ec khi gi\u1eb7t kh\u00f4ng b\u1ecb x\u00f4 d\u1ea1t s\u1ee3i, d\u00f9 m\u1ed7i m\u1eb7t h\u00e0ng m\u1ed7i v\u1ebb kh\u00e1c nhau; Sa: Sa \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c d\u1ec7t r\u1ea5t m\u1ecfng n\u00ean trong su\u1ed1t, t\u1ea1o n\u00ean nh\u1eefng \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng v\u00e2n \u00f3ng \u00e1nh r\u1ea5t \u0111\u1eb9p n\u1ebfu m\u1eb7c \u00e1o trong m\u00e0u tr\u1eafng. Sa m\u1ecfng v\u00e0 m\u00e1t n\u00ean th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1eb7c v\u00e0o m\u00f9a h\u00e8. C\u00f3 sa \u0111\u01a1n v\u00e0 sa hoa. Sa hoa c\u00f3 nhi\u1ec1u lo\u1ea1i: \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t l\u00e0 sa th\u1ea5t th\u1ec3 v\u00e0 sa cung \u0111inh (d\u00f9ng may \u00e1o long b\u00e0o cho vua m\u1eb7c v\u00e0o m\u00f9a n\u00f3ng]. Xuy\u1ebfn (quy\u1ebfn]: Xuy\u1ebfn nh\u01b0 sa, c\u00f3 c\u00e1t n\u1ed5i ngang, m\u1ecfng h\u01a1n the tr\u01a1n v\u00e0 tho\u00e1ng tr\u00f4ng t\u1ef1a m\u00e0nh m\u00e0nh do s\u1ee3i d\u1ea7y xen l\u1eabn s\u1ee3i th\u01b0a. B\u0103ng: C\u0169ng l\u00e0 m\u1eb7t h\u00e0ng th\u1ee7ng, trong su\u1ed1t, c\u00f3 hoa l\u00e1c \u0111\u00e1c, nh\u1eb9 h\u01a1n the. C\u1ea5p: M\u1ecfng g\u1ea7n gi\u1ed1ng nh\u01b0 the, l\u01b0\u1ee3t v\u00e0 th\u01b0\u1eddng c\u00f3 hoa. L\u01b0\u1ee3t: M\u1eb7t h\u00e0ng d\u1ec7t th\u01b0a, m\u1ecfng, m\u1ecbn, r\u1ea5t m\u1ec1m, d\u00f9ng may kh\u0103n, \u00e1o. L\u01b0\u01a1ng: C\u00f3 l\u01b0\u01a1ng \u0111\u01a1n v\u00e0 k\u00e9p, d\u00f9ng \u0111\u1ec3 may \u00e1o d\u00e0i, l\u00e0m kh\u0103n. L\u1ee5a: C\u00f3 hai lo\u1ea1i: l\u1ee5a tr\u01a1n v\u00e0 l\u1ee5a hoa, d\u1ec7t b\u1eb1ng t\u01a1 n\u00f5n sao cho s\u1ee3i d\u1ecdc v\u00e0 s\u1ee3i ngang kh\u00edt v\u1edbi nhau, t\u1ea1o n\u00ean v\u1ebb m\u1ecbn m\u00e0ng, \u00f3ng \u1ea3 v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed9 d\u00e0y v\u1eeba ph\u1ea3i. 1051","L\u00e0: C\u00f9ng h\u1ecd v\u1edbi l\u1ee5a, d\u1ec7t b\u1eb1ng t\u01a1 n\u00f5n, c\u00f3 nh\u1eefng \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng d\u1ecdc nh\u1ecf \u0111\u1ec1u, th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c d\u00f9ng l\u00e0m kh\u0103n hay nhu\u1ed9m m\u00e0u \u0111\u1ec3 l\u00e0m c\u00e1c ph\u1ea7n \u0111\u1ed5i m\u00e0u trong y ph\u1ee5c. Nhi\u1ec5u: L\u00e0 th\u1ee9 l\u1ee5a d\u1ec7t b\u1eb1ng s\u1ee3i \u0111\u00e3 se n\u00ean m\u1eb7t n\u1ed3i c\u00e1t nh\u01b0 h\u00e0ng cr\u00eape ng\u00e0y nay, d\u00f9ng l\u00e0m kh\u0103n. K\u1ef3 c\u1ea7u: L\u00e0 th\u1ee9 l\u1ee5a b\u00f3ng c\u00f3 hoa nh\u1ecf, n\u1ec1n m\u1ecbn v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ec1u. \u0110\u0169i: \u0110\u01b0\u1ee3c d\u1ec7t t\u1eeb t\u01a1 trong c\u00f9ng c\u1ee7a k\u00e9n t\u1eb1m, h\u01a1i th\u00f4, c\u0169ng d\u00e0y v\u00e0 b\u1ec1n nh\u01b0 n\u00e1i, nh\u01b0ng m\u1ec1m v\u00e0 m\u1ecbn h\u01a1n. \u0110\u0169i nguy\u00ean th\u1ee7y \u00f3ng m\u00e0u v\u00e0ng ch\u00edn c\u1ee7a k\u00e9n t\u1eb1m. \u0110\u0169i c\u00f3 lo\u1ea1i tr\u01a1n, lo\u1ea1i hoa v\u00e0 \u0111\u0169i th\u1ecd h\u1ec9. \u0110\u0169i m\u1ed9c m\u1ea1c, tho\u00e1ng, m\u00e1t m\u00f9a h\u00e8, \u1ea5m m\u00f9a \u0111\u00f4ng, th\u01b0\u1eddng d\u00f9ng may qu\u1ea7n, \u00e1o v\u00e0 th\u1eaft l\u01b0ng. S\u1ed3i (ch\u1ed3i]: D\u1ec7t b\u1eb1ng t\u01a1 g\u1ed1c, th\u01b0\u1eddng d\u00f9ng may y\u1ebfm, kh\u1ed1, bao... N\u00e1i: \u0110\u01b0\u1ee3c d\u1ec7t b\u1eb1ng s\u1ee3i k\u00e9o t\u1eeb v\u1ecf k\u00e9n b\u00ean ngo\u00e0i n\u00ean th\u1edb to, c\u00f3 nhi\u1ec1u l\u00f4ng v\u00e0 s\u1ea7n, th\u01b0\u1eddng c\u00f3 m\u00e0u v\u00e0ng \u0111\u1eadm, c\u1ee9ng nh\u01b0ng r\u1ea5t b\u1ec1n. N\u00e1i d\u00f9ng may qu\u1ea7n, kh\u0103n, th\u1eaft l\u01b0ng... Ng\u00e0y nay, v\u1edbi k\u1ef9 thu\u1eadt d\u1ec7t ti\u00ean ti\u1ebfn, kh\u1eafc ph\u1ee5c \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c khuy\u1ebft \u0111i\u1ec3m d\u1ec5 nh\u0103n, nh\u00e0u c\u1ee7a t\u01a1 t\u1eb1m, ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta \u0111\u00e3 s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t nhi\u1ec1u lo\u1ea1i v\u1ea3i l\u1ee5a t\u01a1 t\u1eb1m kh\u00e1c nhau, ph\u1ee5c v\u1ee5 cho \u0111\u1ee7 m\u1ecdi y\u00eau c\u1ea7u trang ph\u1ee5c: Chiffon: L\u1ee5a chi\u00ed\u00edon t\u01a1 t\u1eb1m m\u1ecfng tang, trong m\u1edd, m\u1ec1m m\u01b0\u1ee3t, \u1ea5m \u00e1p, tinh t\u1ebf, d\u00f9ng \u0111\u1ec3 may v\u00e1y, \u00e1o r\u1ea5t \u0111\u1eb9p. Ngo\u00e0i s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m th\u00f4ng d\u1ee5ng l\u00e0 h\u00e0ng m\u00e0u tr\u01a1n, hi\u1ec7n nay c\u00f3 r\u1ea5t nhi\u1ec1u m\u1eb7t h\u00e0ng l\u1ee5a chiffon in hoa v\u0103n m\u1edbi l\u1ea1 v\u00e0 \u0111\u1eb9p m\u1eaft v\u1edbi nhi\u1ec1u k\u00edch th\u01b0\u1edbc, th\u00edch h\u1ee3p v\u1edbi nhi\u1ec1u lo\u1ea1i trang ph\u1ee5c. Habotai: \u0110\u1ee5c nh\u1eb9, m\u1ecfng, tr\u01a1n m\u01b0\u1ee3t, r\u1ea5t m\u1ec1m m\u1ea1i v\u00e0 m\u00e1t d\u1ecbu, t\u1ea1o s\u1ef1 tho\u1ea3i m\u00e1i d\u1ec5 ch\u1ecbu khi s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng, n\u00ean l\u1ee5a Habotai c\u0169ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c d\u00f9ng \u0111\u1ec3 may \u00e1o m\u00f9a h\u00e8 ho\u1eb7c \u00e1o d\u00e2y, \u00e1o ng\u1ee7. ri06","Satin: \u00f3ng \u1ea3, m\u1ec1m m\u1ea1i, b\u00f3ng \u0111\u1eb9p, th\u1ea5m m\u1ed3 h\u00f4i, m\u00e1t v\u00e0o m\u00f9a h\u00e8, l\u1ea1i kh\u00f4ng t\u00edch \u0111i\u1ec7n d\u00ednh s\u00e1t v\u00e0o ng\u01b0\u1eddi v\u00e0o m\u00f9a \u0111\u00f4ng.. B\u00ean c\u1ea1nh c\u00e1c m\u00e0u tr\u01a1n, l\u1ee5a satin c\u00f2n c\u00f3 nhi\u1ec1u hoa v\u0103n phong ph\u00fa d\u00f9ng \u0111\u1ec3 may \u00e1o c\u01b0\u1edbi, trang ph\u1ee5c th\u1eddi trang v\u00e0 trang tr\u00ed n\u1ed9i th\u1ea5t. Tvvill: C\u00f3 \u0111\u1ed9 b\u00f3ng v\u1eeba ph\u1ea3i, d\u00e0y d\u1eb7n v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed9 r\u1ee7 cao h\u01a1n l\u1ee5a habotai m\u00e0 v\u1eabn m\u1ec1m m\u1ea1i, m\u00e1t r\u01b0\u1ee3i, ph\u00f9 h\u1ee3p v\u1edbi m\u1ecdi l\u1ee9a tu\u1ed5i, t\u1ea1o c\u1ea3m gi\u00e1c nh\u1eb9 nh\u00e0ng tho\u1ea3i m\u00e1i khi m\u1eb7c, kh\u00f4ng g\u00e2y kh\u00f3 ch\u1ecbu, k\u00edch th\u00edch da n\u00ean th\u00edch h\u1ee3p v\u1edbi m\u1ecdi trang ph\u1ee5c th\u1eddi trang. Organza: H\u01a1i c\u1ee9ng h\u01a1n Taffeta nh\u01b0ng th\u01b0a v\u00e0 m\u1ecfng, th\u00edch h\u1ee3p \u0111\u1ec3 may \u00e1o c\u01b0\u1edbi, \u0111\u1ea7m d\u1ea1 h\u1ed9i sang tr\u1ecdng. Taffeta: C\u00f3 \u0111\u1ed9 b\u00f3ng, \u0111\u1ed9 c\u1ee9ng, \\\"\u0111\u1ee9ng m\u00ecnh\\\" nh\u01b0ng l\u1ea1i kh\u00f4ng b\u00e1m da v\u00e0o m\u00f9a \u0111\u00f4ng n\u00ean ph\u00f9 h\u1ee3p \u0111\u1ec3 may \u00e1o c\u01b0\u1edbi, \u00e1o vest, \u00e1o kho\u00e1c, v\u00e1y ng\u1eafn, qu\u1ea7n t\u00e2y hay k\u1ebft h\u1ee3p v\u1edbi c\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i ch\u1ea5t li\u1ec7u kh\u00e1c \u0111\u1ec3 may s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m th\u1eddi trang c\u00f4ng s\u1edf, d\u1ea1o ph\u1ed1. Tussah: C\u00f2n g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 \\\"\u0111\u0169i th\u00f4\\\", s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c d\u1ec7t t\u1eeb nh\u1eefng s\u1ee3i t\u01a1 th\u00f4 c\u1ee7a con t\u1eb1m. \u0110\u0169i c\u00f3 b\u1ec1 m\u1eb7t h\u01a1i kh\u00f4 nh\u01b0ng c\u00f3 \u0111\u1ed9 b\u00f3ng nh\u1eb9 n\u00ean th\u00edch h\u1ee3p cho s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m \u00e1o s\u01a1 mi nam, \u00e1o vest ho\u1eb7c qu\u1ea7n t\u00e2y. \u1ecaacquard: M\u1ec1m m\u1ea1i, nu\u1ed9t n\u00e0, \u00f3ng \u1ea3. B\u00ean c\u1ea1nh m\u00e0u s\u1eafc t\u01b0\u01a1i tr\u1ebb, \u0111a d\u1ea1ng, \u00f3ng \u00e1nh \u0111\u1eb7c tr\u01b0ng c\u1ee7a t\u01a1 t\u1eb1m, c\u00e1c hoa v\u0103n phong ph\u00fa trong k\u1ef9 thu\u1eadt d\u1ec7t hoa v\u0103n ch\u00ecm \u0111em l\u1ea1i s\u1ef1 l\u1ef1a ch\u1ecdn \u0111a d\u1ea1ng khi may \u00e1o d\u00e0i, trang ph\u1ee5c th\u1eddi trang, trang tr\u00ed n\u1ed9i th\u1ea5t. Damash: L\u00e0 lo\u1ea1i v\u1ea3i d\u00e0y d\u1eb7n, c\u00f3 \u0111\u1ed9 m\u1ec1m v\u1eeba ph\u1ea3i, m\u1ec1m m\u1ea1i h\u01a1n Taffeta, nh\u01b0ng c\u00f3 \u0111\u1ed9 b\u00f3ng v\u00e0 \u00e1nh m\u00e0u nh\u01b0 satin, v\u1edbi nhi\u1ec1u ki\u1ec3u hoa v\u0103n l\u1ea1, th\u00edch h\u1ee3p may \u00e1o vest, qu\u1ea7n t\u00e2y, \u00e1o d\u00e0i, cravat... rio","\u00f4 Trang ph\u1ee5c ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef ng\u01b0\u1eddi Kinh Trang ph\u1ee5c th\u01b0\u1eddng ng\u00e0y truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng c\u1ee7a ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef \u1edf mi\u1ec1n B\u1eafc v\u00e0 B\u1eafc Trung B\u1ed9 g\u1ed3m \u00e1o, y\u1ebfm, v\u00e1y, kh\u0103n, n\u00f3n. \u1ea2o ng\u1ed1n: Lo\u1ea1i \u00e1o c\u00e1nh b\u1eb1ng v\u1ea3i n\u00e2u, c\u1ed5 tr\u00f2n, vi\u1ec1n nh\u1ecf, t\u00e0 m\u1edf, \u0111a s\u1ed1 kh\u00f4ng c\u00e0i c\u00fac tr\u01b0\u1edbc ng\u1ef1c. B\u00ean trong l\u00e0 y\u1ebfm m\u00e0u v\u00e0ng t\u01a1 t\u1eb1m, m\u00e0u hoa hi\u00ean ho\u1eb7c n\u00e2u non. \u00c1o d\u00e0i (\u00e1o t\u1ee9 th\u00e2n): \u0110\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng nh\u01b0 trang ph\u1ee5c h\u00e0ng ng\u00e0y \u0111\u1ebfn \u0111\u1ea7u th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 XX, c\u00f2n ng\u00e0y nay, \u00e1o t\u1ee9 th\u00e2n ch\u1ec9 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1eb7c trong c\u00e1c d\u1ecbp l\u1ec5 h\u1ed9i. Tr\u00ean s\u00e2n kh\u1ea5u truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng, \u00e1o t\u1ee9 th\u00e2n d\u00f9ng cho c\u00e1c vai n\u1eef n\u00f4ng th\u00f4n, th\u01b0\u1eddng may b\u1eb1ng v\u1ea3i m\u00e0u s\u1eabm c\u00f3 khuy tr\u00f2n g\u00e0i b\u00ean n\u00e1ch ph\u1ea3i. \u00c1o t\u1ee9 th\u00e2n l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t ki\u1ec3u \u00e1o m\u00e0 ph\u1ea7n l\u01b0ng \u00e1o g\u1ed3m hai m\u1ea3nh v\u1ea3i gh\u00e9p l\u1ea1i, th\u01b0\u1eddng l\u00e0 m\u00e0u n\u00e2u ho\u1eb7c n\u00e2u non gh\u00e9p v\u1edbi m\u00e0u c\u00f9ng gam; ph\u00eda tr\u01b0\u1edbc l\u00e0 hai th\u00e2n t\u00e1ch r\u1eddi, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c bu\u1ed9c l\u1ea1i v\u1edbi nhau, th\u1ea3 tr\u01b0\u1edbc b\u1ee5ng \u0111\u1ec3 t\u1ea1o d\u00e1ng ng\u01b0\u1eddi thon th\u1ea3, ph\u00eda tr\u00ean kh\u00f4ng g\u00e0i kh\u00edt m\u00e0 \u0111\u1ebf l\u1ed9 y\u1ebfm m\u00e0u b\u00ean trong; c\u1ed5 \u00e1o vi\u1ec1n 1 - 2 cm. \u00c1o t\u1ee9 th\u00e2n d\u00e0i g\u1ea7n ch\u1ea5m g\u00f3t, tay \u00e1o b\u00f3 ch\u1eb7t. Lo\u1ea1i \u00e1o hai v\u1ea1t ph\u00eda tr\u01b0\u1edbc \u0111\u1ec1u nhau, bu\u00f4ng th\u1ea3 xu\u1ed1ng, kh\u00f4ng c\u00e0i khuy, bu\u1ed9c hai v\u1ea1t v\u00e0o nhau g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 \u00e1o bu\u1ed9c v\u1ea1t. Tr\u01b0\u1eddng h\u1ee3p m\u1eb7c \u00e1o bu\u00f4ng v\u1ea1t, ng\u01b0\u1eddi ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef bao gi\u1edd c\u0169ng m\u1eb7c y\u1ebfm c\u1ed5 x\u00e2y cho k\u00edn \u0111\u00e1o. Ngo\u00e0i ra c\u00f2n c\u00f3 lo\u1ea1i \u00e1o n\u0103m th\u00e2n (v\u1ea1t ngo\u00e0i, c\u00f2n g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 v\u1ea1t c\u1ea3, \u1edf b\u00ean tr\u00e1i ng\u01b0\u1eddi m\u1eb7c, r\u1ed9ng g\u1ea5p \u0111\u00f4i v\u1ea1t trong, c\u00f2n g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 v\u1ea1t con b\u00ean ph\u1ea3i) kh\u00f4ng c\u00e0i khuy c\u1ea1nh s\u01b0\u1eddn m\u00e0 d\u00f9ng th\u1eaft l\u01b0ng th\u1eaft ngang b\u1ee5ng gi\u1eef kh\u00f4ng cho v\u1ea1t \u00e1o tr\u1ec5 xu\u1ed1ng. T\u1ea5t c\u1ea3 m\u1ecdi tr\u01b0\u1eddng h\u1ee3p m\u1eb7c \u00e1o d\u00e0i \u0111\u1ec1u \u0111eo th\u1eaft l\u01b0ng m\u00e0u \u0111\u1eb9p bu\u00f4ng xu\u1ed1ng ph\u00eda tr\u01b0\u1edbc. Y\u1ebfm: L\u00e0 m\u1ed9t mi\u1ebfng v\u1ea3i vu\u00f4ng \u0111\u1eb7t ch\u00e9o tr\u00ean ng\u1ef1c ng\u01b0\u1eddi m\u1eb7c. \u1edf m\u1ed9t g\u00f3c (tr\u00ean) kho\u00e9t h\u00ecnh tr\u00f2n l\u00e0m c\u1ed5 y\u1ebfm ri08","k Trang ph\u1ee5c ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef Vi\u1ec7t Nam x\u01b0a [lo\u1ea1i y\u1ebfm n\u00e0y c\u00f3 t\u00ean l\u00e0 y\u1ebfm c\u1ed5 x\u00e2y) hay kho\u00e9t h\u00ecnh ch\u1eef V [g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 y\u1ebfm c\u1ed5 x\u1ebb hay y\u1ebfm con nh\u1ea1n), th\u01b0\u1eddng l\u00e0 x\u1ebb n\u00f4ng nh\u01b0ng c\u0169ng c\u00f3 lo\u1ea1i x\u1ebb s\u00e2u xu\u1ed1ng ph\u00eda d\u01b0\u1edbi, \u1edf g\u00f3c nh\u1ecdn 109)","y\u1ebfm c\u1ed5 x\u1ebb (\u0111\u00e1y ch\u1eef V) c\u00f3 ba \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng kh\u00e2u n\u1ed5i nh\u01b0 h\u00ecnh ch\u00e2n chim c\u00f3 t\u00e1c d\u1ee5ng trang tr\u00ed, \u0111\u1ed3ng th\u1eddi gi\u1eef cho c\u1ed5 y\u1ebfm l\u00e2u b\u1ecb r\u00e1ch. Hai \u0111\u1ea7u c\u1ed5 y\u1ebfm c\u00f3 hai d\u1ea3i nh\u1ecf \u0111\u1ec3 bu\u1ed9c ra sau g\u00e1y. Hai d\u1ea3i \u1edf hai g\u00f3c b\u00ean c\u1ea1nh s\u01b0\u1eddn bu\u1ed9c ra sau l\u01b0ng. C\u00f3 lo\u1ea1i y\u1ebfm, hai d\u1ea3i n\u00e0y l\u00e0 hai mi\u1ebfng v\u1ea3i h\u00ecnh tam gi\u00e1c d\u00e0i v\u1eaft ch\u00e9o ngang \u1edf sau l\u01b0ng r\u1ed3i l\u1ea1i bu\u1ed9c ra ph\u00eda tr\u01b0\u1edbc. H\u00ecnh th\u1ee9c lo\u1ea1i y\u1ebfm n\u00e0y k\u00edn c\u1ea3 ng\u1ef1c, b\u1ee5ng v\u00e0 m\u1ed9t ph\u1ea7n l\u01b0ng, do \u0111\u00f3 ng\u01b0\u1eddi ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 kh\u00f4ng m\u1eb7c \u00e1o ngo\u00e0i, tay \u0111\u1ec3 tr\u1ea7n. V\u00e1y (c\u00f3 n\u01a1i \u1edf B\u1eafc Trung B\u1ed9 g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 m\u1ea5n): Th\u01b0\u1eddng m\u1eb7c ng\u1eafn \u0111\u1ebfn \u1ed1ng ch\u00e2n. Khi l\u00e0m ru\u1ed9ng, ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta x\u1eafn v\u00e1y cao l\u00ean tr\u00ean \u0111\u1ea7u g\u1ed1i r\u1ed3i bu\u1ed9c t\u00fam g\u1ea5u v\u00e1y tr\u01b0\u1edbc v\u00e0 sau v\u00e0o nhau v\u00e0 th\u01b0\u1eddng qu\u1ea5n th\u1eaft l\u01b0ng b\u1eb1ng v\u1ea3i m\u00e0u m\u1ed9t ho\u1eb7c r\u1ea5t nhi\u1ec1u v\u00f2ng ngo\u00e0i c\u1ea1p v\u00e1y, ho\u1eb7c c\u00f9ng m\u1ed9t l\u00fac h\u1ecd d\u00f9ng hai th\u1eaft l\u01b0ng kh\u00e1c m\u00e0u nhau, \u0111\u00e0u th\u1eaft l\u01b0ng gi\u1eaft g\u1ecdn l\u00ean c\u1ea1p v\u00e1y cho \u0111\u1ee1 v\u01b0\u1edbng. M\u00f9a r\u00e9t, ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef n\u00f4ng th\u00f4n th\u01b0\u1eddng m\u1eb7c th\u00eam \u00e1o c\u00e1nh ho\u1eb7c m\u1eb7c m\u1ed9t ki\u1ec3u \u00e1o c\u1ed9c tay b\u1eb1ng v\u1ea3i th\u00f4, bu\u1ed9c m\u1ed9t s\u1ee3i d\u00e2y quanh b\u1ee5ng cho g\u1ecdn g\u00e0ng. Kh\u0103n: Kh\u0103n v\u1ea5n t\u00f3c l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t mi\u1ebfng v\u1ea3i d\u00e0i kho\u1ea3ng BOcm, r\u1ed9ng ch\u1eebng 15cm - 20cm, c\u00f3 m\u00e0u \u0111en, m\u00e0u n\u00e2u ho\u1eb7c m\u00e0u t\u00edm tam giang. \u0110\u1ec3 v\u1ea5n t\u00f3c \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c tr\u00f2n v\u00e0 ch\u1eb7t, ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta ph\u1ea3i \u0111\u1ed9n th\u00eam v\u00e0o t\u00f3c m\u1ed9t c\u00e1i \u0111\u1ed9n (b\u1eb1ng v\u1ea3i nh\u1ed3i b\u00f4ng), tr\u00f4ng nh\u01b0 h\u00ecnh con r\u1eafn (d\u00e0i kho\u1ea3ng 50cm). \u1edf ph\u00eda \u0111\u1ea7u \u0111\u1ed9n c\u00f2n c\u00f3 th\u00eam m\u1ed9t s\u1ee3i d\u00e2y nh\u1ecf, d\u00e0i b\u1eb1ng th\u00e2n \u0111\u1ed9n. Nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi t\u00f3c kh\u00f4ng d\u00e0i v\u00e0 th\u01b0a ph\u1ea3i d\u00f9ng m\u1ed9t b\u1ed9 t\u00f3c gi\u1ea3 \u0111\u1ec7m th\u00eam v\u00e0o cho v\u00e0nh kh\u0103n d\u00e0y \u0111\u1ec3 m\u1edb t\u00f3c \u0111u\u00f4i g\u00e0 \u0111ong \u0111\u01b0a duy\u00ean d\u00e1ng. C\u00e1c c\u1ee5 b\u00e0 b\u1ecb r\u1ee5ng t\u00f3c, d\u00f9ng m\u1ed9t d\u1ea3i v\u1ea3i xo\u1eafn l\u1ea1i v\u00e0 qu\u1ea5n quanh \u0111\u1ea7u l\u00e0m kh\u0103n. V\u1ec1 m\u00f9a r\u00e9t, ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef mi\u1ec1n B\u1eafc v\u00e0 B\u1eafc Trung B\u1ed9 c\u00f2n ch\u00edt kh\u0103n vu\u00f4ng m\u00e0u th\u00e2m (th\u01b0\u1eddng g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 kh\u0103n vu\u00f4ng ho\u1eb7c F3>","kh\u0103n th\u00e2m). \u0110\u00f3 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t mi\u1ebfng v\u1ea3i vu\u00f4ng m\u1ed7i c\u1ea1nh t\u1eeb 70cm \u0111\u1ebfn 80cm. Khi ch\u00edt, g\u1eadp ch\u00e9o kh\u0103n l\u1ea1i th\u00e0nh h\u00ecnh tam gi\u00e1c, \u0111\u1eb7t l\u00ean \u0111\u1ea7u, [c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 ch\u1ec9 \u0111\u1eb7t ngang tr\u00ean \u0111\u1ec9nh \u0111\u1ea7u), hai g\u00f3c kh\u0103n bu\u1ed9c v\u00e0o d\u01b0\u1edbi c\u1eb1m, tai \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c tr\u00f9m k\u00edn. C\u0169ng c\u00f3 ki\u1ec3u \u0111\u1eb7t m\u00e9p kh\u0103n xu\u1ed1ng g\u1ea7n tr\u00e1n, k\u00e9o hai b\u00ean kh\u0103n v\u1ec1 hai ph\u00eda th\u00e0nh m\u1ed9t h\u00ecnh m\u1ecf qu\u1ea1 \u1edf gi\u1eefa r\u1ed3i bu\u1ed9c hai \u0111\u1ea7u kh\u0103n xu\u1ed1ng d\u01b0\u1edbi c\u1eb1m ho\u1eb7c qu\u1eb7t \u0111\u1ea7u kh\u0103n bu\u1ed9c ra sau g\u00e1y, g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 ch\u00edt kh\u0103n m\u1ecf qu\u1ea1. N\u00f3n: C\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i n\u00f3n th\u01b0\u1eddng th\u1ea5y l\u00e0 n\u00f3n l\u00e1 g\u1ed3i, l\u00e1 c\u1ecd [lo\u1ea1i l\u00e1 gi\u00e0, b\u1ec1n ch\u1eafc, \u0111\u1ec3 d\u00e3i n\u1eafng d\u1ea7m m\u01b0a, l\u00e2u b\u1ecb h\u1edf), n\u00f3n ch\u1ecfm b\u1eb1ng, n\u00f3n l\u00f2ng ch\u1ea3o (n\u00f4ng m\u00e0 cho\u00e3i), n\u00f3n th\u00fang [s\u00e2u v\u00e0 h\u01a1i khum), n\u00f3n ch\u00e2n t\u01b0\u1ee3ng [r\u1ea5t s\u00e2u, h\u00ecnh ch\u00e2n voi) - n\u00f3n n\u00e0y c\u00f2n g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 n\u00f3n qu\u1ea3 b\u1ee9a (v\u00ec tr\u00f4ng gi\u1ed1ng qu\u1ea3 b\u1ee9a c\u1eaft ngang). Nh\u00ecn chung, ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef mi\u1ec1n B\u1eafc \u01b0a chu\u1ed9ng m\u00e0u n\u00e2u s\u1ed3ng. M\u00e0u s\u1eafc v\u00e0 ki\u1ec3u \u00e1o ph\u00f9 h\u1ee3p v\u1edbi \u0111i\u1ec1u ki\u1ec7n lao \u0111\u1ed9ng, th\u1eddi ti\u1ebft t\u1eebng mi\u1ec1n. D\u00f9 l\u00e0 trang ph\u1ee5c lao \u0111\u1ed9ng, c\u00e1c ki\u1ec3u qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o v\u1eabn \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1eeda \u0111\u1ed5i ng\u00e0y m\u1ed9t g\u1ecdn g\u00e0ng, \u01b0a nh\u00ecn h\u01a1n. \u1edf th\u00e0nh th\u1ecb mi\u1ec1n B\u1eafc, t\u1ea7ng l\u1edbp ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef \u00edt ph\u1ea3i lao \u0111\u1ed9ng v\u1ea5t v\u1ea3 th\u01b0\u1eddng m\u1eb7c v\u00e1y d\u00e0i m\u00e0u \u0111en ch\u1ea5m g\u00f3t, \u00e1o c\u00e1nh ng\u1eafn b\u1eb1ng v\u1ea3i tr\u1eafng hay l\u1ee5a t\u01a1 t\u1eb1m. Y\u1ebfm m\u00e0u tr\u1eafng, ho\u1eb7c m\u00e0u hoa hi\u00ean hay v\u00e0ng t\u01a1 t\u1eb1m. Th\u1eaft l\u01b0ng b\u1eb1ng l\u1ee5a m\u00e0u. Khi c\u00f3 kh\u00e1ch \u0111\u1ebfn nh\u00e0 ho\u1eb7c c\u00f3 c\u00f4ng vi\u1ec7c ra \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng, bao gi\u1edd h\u1ecd c\u0169ng m\u1eb7c th\u00eam \u00e1o d\u00e0i. M\u00f9a n\u00f3ng, h\u1ecd m\u1eb7c \u00e1o d\u00e0i t\u1ee9 th\u00e2n hai v\u1ea1t tr\u01b0\u1edbc nh\u01b0 nhau v\u00e0 bu\u00f4ng th\u1ea3 t\u1ef1 nhi\u00ean ho\u1eb7c bu\u1ed9c v\u1ea1t ph\u00eda tr\u01b0\u1edbc ho\u1eb7c ph\u00eda sau. M\u00f9a r\u00e9t, h\u1ecd m\u1eb7c hai ho\u1eb7c ba chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o d\u00e0i c\u00f9ng m\u1ed9t l\u00fac g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 \u00e1o m\u1edb. V\u1ea5n kh\u0103n nhi\u1ec5u, \u0111\u1ec3 t\u00f3c \u0111u\u00f4i g\u00e0. \u0110\u1ea7u \u0111\u1ed9i n\u00f3n ba t\u1ea7m. Ch\u00e2n \u0111i d\u00e9p cong. R\u0103ng \u0111en h\u1ea1t huy\u1ec1n, \u0103n tr\u1ea7u cho m\u00f4i \u0111\u1ecf c\u0169ng l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t ti\u00eau chu\u1ea9n v\u1ec1 c\u00e1i \u0111\u1eb9p c\u1ee7a ng\u01b0\u1eddi ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef. m\u00ec","Ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef lao \u0111\u1ed9ng \u1edf mi\u00ean N'an v\u00e0 Narn Trung B\u1ed9 U'a m\u1eb7': m\u00e0u \u0111en. \u00c1o c\u00e1nh [\u00e1o b\u00e0 ba) c\u00e0i c\u00fac gi\u1eefa, v\u1ea1t \u00e1o sau d\u00e0i tr\u00f9m m\u00f4ng. \u0110\u00e2y l\u00e0 lo\u1ea1i trang ph\u1ee5c ph\u1ed5 bi\u1ebfn \u1ecf- c\u00e1c mi\u1ec1n qu\u00ea Nam B\u1ed9. Cho \u0111\u1ebfn nay, ch\u01b0a c\u00f3 t\u00e0i li\u1ec7u n\u00e0o n\u00f3i r\u00f5 \u00e1o b\u00e0 ba xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n \u1edf th\u1eddi \u0111i\u1ec3m n\u00e0o. Do \u0111\u00f3, c\u00f3 m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 gi\u1ea3 thi\u1ebft. - \u00c1o b\u00e0 ba xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea7u ti\u00ean \u1edf Nam B\u1ed9 v\u00e0o th\u1eddi Nh\u00e0 H\u1eadu L\u00ea. - \u00c1o b\u00e0 ba xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n v\u00e0o n\u1eeda \u0111\u1ea7u th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 XIX, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c Tr\u01b0\u01a1ng V\u0129nh K\u00fd c\u00e1ch t\u00e2n t\u1eeb \u00e1o c\u1ee7a ng\u01b0\u1eddi d\u00e2n \u0111\u1ea3o P\u00e9nang, Malaysia (ng\u01b0\u1eddi Malaysia g\u1ed1c Hoa) cho ph\u00f9 h\u1ee3p v\u1edbi ng\u01b0\u1eddi Vi\u1ec7t. Ng\u01b0\u1eddi d\u00e2n \u1edf \u0111\u1ed3ng b\u1eb1ng s\u00f4ng C\u1eedu Long x\u01b0a th\u01b0\u1eddng v\u1eadn b\u1ed9 b\u00e0 ba \u0111en \u0111i l\u00e0m \u0111\u1ed3ng, b\u1edfi n\u00f3 v\u1eeba s\u1ea1ch, v\u1eeba d\u1ec5 gi\u1eb7t gi\u0169. V\u1ea3i may l\u00e0 lo\u1ea1i v\u1ea3i m\u1ed9t, v\u1ea3i \u00fa, v\u1ea3i s\u01a1n \u0111\u00e0m... r\u1ea5t mau kh\u00f4 sau khi gi\u1eb7t. B\u00ean c\u1ea1nh \u0111\u00f3, chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o b\u00e0 ba \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c x\u1ebb \u1edf hai ril2","b\u00ean h\u00f4ng l\u00e0m cho ng\u01b0\u1eddi m\u1eb7c c\u1ea3m th\u1ea5y tho\u1ea3i m\u00e1i... \u00c1o b\u00e0 ba \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef m\u1eb7c c\u1ea3 l\u00fac \u0111i l\u00e0m, \u0111i ch\u1ee3, \u0111i ch\u01a1i. Ri\u00eang l\u00fac \u0111i ch\u01a1i, h\u1ecd th\u01b0\u1eddng ch\u1ecdn m\u00e0u s\u1eafc nh\u1eb9 h\u01a1n nh\u01b0 m\u00e0u tr\u1eafng, m\u00e0u m\u1ea1 non, xanh l\u01a1 nh\u1ea1t... v\u1edbi ch\u1ea5t li\u1ec7u v\u1ea3i \u0111\u1eaft ti\u1ec1n h\u01a1n nh\u01b0 the, l\u1ee5a... Sau n\u00e0y, nh\u1ea5t l\u00e0 \u1edf th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1960-1970, \u00e1o b\u00e0 ba truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef th\u00e0nh th\u1ecb c\u1ea3i ti\u1ebfn, v\u1eeba d\u00e2n t\u1ed9c, v\u1eeba \u0111\u1eb9p v\u00e0 hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i h\u01a1n. \u00c1o d\u00e0i b\u00e0 ba hi\u1ec7n nay kh\u00f4ng th\u1eb3ng v\u00e0 r\u1ed9ng nh\u01b0 x\u01b0a, m\u00e0 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c may h\u1eb9p, nh\u1ea5n th\u00eam eo b\u1ee5ng, eo ng\u1ef1c cho \u00f4m s\u00e1t l\u1ea5y th\u00e2n h\u00ecnh. Ngo\u00e0i ra, ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta c\u00f2n s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o c\u00e1c ki\u1ec3u ch\u1eafp vai, c\u1ed5 tay, c\u1eeda tay, ri\u00eang c\u00e1c ki\u1ec3u b\u00e2u (c\u1ed5) l\u00e1 sen, c\u00e1nh \u00e9n, \u0111an t\u00f4n... l\u00e0 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ti\u1ebfp thu t\u1eeb ki\u1ec3u y ph\u1ee5c n\u01b0\u1edbc ngo\u00e0i. C\u00e1c ki\u1ec3u r\u00e1p tay c\u0169ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u1ea3i ti\u1ebfn. T\u1eeb ki\u1ec3u may \u00e1o c\u00e1nh x\u01b0a, li\u1ec1n th\u00e2n v\u1edbi tay, ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta ngh\u0129 t\u1edbi c\u00e1ch r\u00e1p tay r\u1eddi \u1edf b\u1edd tay \u00e1o. Trong nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1970, th\u00e0nh th\u1ecb mi\u1ec1n Nam ph\u1ed5 bi\u1ebfn ki\u1ec3u r\u00e1p tay raglan, \u0111\u00e3 t\u1ea1o n\u00ean v\u1ebb \u0111\u1eb9p hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i cho chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o b\u00e0 ba truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng. V\u1edbi ki\u1ec3u vai raglan n\u00e0y, hai th\u00e2n \u00e1o tr\u01b0\u1edbc v\u00e0 sau t\u00e1ch r\u1eddi kh\u1ecfi vai v\u00e0 tay \u00e1o, trong khi tay v\u00e0 \u00e1o l\u1ea1i li\u1ec1n t\u1eeb c\u1ed5 t\u1edbi n\u00e1ch. B\u00e0 ba vai raglan ch\u1ec9 c\u1ea7n may kh\u00edt, v\u1eeba v\u1eb7n v\u1edbi eo l\u01b0ng, kh\u00f4ng qu\u00e1 th\u1eaft nh\u01b0 ki\u1ec3u \u00e1o tr\u01b0\u1edbc \u0111\u00f3. Tay \u00e1o d\u00e0i h\u01a1n nh\u01b0ng h\u01a1i loe, c\u00f3 khi ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta b\u1ecf c\u1ea3 hai t\u00fai \u1edf v\u1ea1t tr\u01b0\u1edbc \u0111\u1ec3 t\u1ea1o cho th\u00e2n \u00e1o nh\u1eb9 nh\u00f5m, m\u1ec1m m\u1ea1i h\u01a1n. Ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef mi\u1ec1n Nam d\u00f9ng kh\u0103n v\u1ea3i m\u00e0u s\u00e1ng ho\u1eb7c k\u1ebb \u00f4 g\u1eadp l\u1ea1i, v\u1eaft tr\u00ean \u0111\u1ea7u \u0111\u1ec3 tr\u00e1nh n\u1eafng l\u00e0 ch\u1ee7 y\u1ebfu. M\u00f9a r\u00e9t, ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef Nam Trung B\u1ed9 qu\u00e0ng kh\u0103n vu\u00f4ng r\u1ed9ng. Ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef mi\u1ec1n Trung m\u1eb7c \u00e1o d\u00e0i n\u0103m th\u00e2n. Ng\u01b0\u1eddi nhi\u1ec1u tu\u1ed5i hay m\u1eb7c \u00e1o m\u00e0u \u0111\u1eadm, c\u00e1c c\u00f4 g\u00e1i m\u1eb7c m\u00e0u nh\u1eb9 ho\u1eb7c tr\u1eafng. M\u00e0u t\u00edm \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c d\u00f9ng nhi\u1ec1u \u1edf Hu\u1ebf. C\u00f3 tr\u01b0\u1eddng h\u1ee3p 113\u00cc","m\u1eb7c \u00e1o m\u1edb ba nh\u01b0ng kh\u00e1c mi\u1ec1n B\u1eafc l\u00e0 c\u00e0i c\u00fac k\u00edn, c\u1ed5 \u00e1o trong cao h\u01a1n c\u1ed5 \u00e1o ngo\u00e0i ch\u00fat \u00edt \u0111\u1ec3 l\u1ed9 ba m\u00e0u kh\u00e1c nhau. T\u00e0 \u00e1o kh\u00e9p k\u00edn nh\u01b0ng m\u00e9p t\u00e0 c\u0169ng v\u1eabn l\u1ed9 ba m\u00e0u. Qu\u1ea7n th\u01b0\u1eddng m\u1eb7c m\u00e0u tr\u1eafng, h\u00e3n h\u1eefu m\u1edbi m\u1eb7c qu\u1ea7n \u0111en. Ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef trung ni\u00ean \u0111\u1ec3 t\u00f3c d\u00e0i, ch\u1ea3i ng\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u00ean (g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 ch\u1ea3i l\u00e1ng) v\u00e0 b\u00fai g\u1ecdn sau g\u00e1y. Ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef tr\u1ebb \u0111\u1ec3 t\u00f3c d\u00e0i, c\u1eb7p l\u1ea1i ph\u00eda sau hay \u0111\u1ec3 t\u00f3c ngang vai. V\u00e0o nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1920-1930, trang ph\u1ee5c \u1edf n\u00f4ng th\u00f4n v\u1eabn theo l\u1ed1i c\u1ed5 truy\u1ec1n, nh\u01b0ng trang ph\u1ee5c c\u1ee7a ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef th\u00e0nh th\u1ecb B\u1eafc, Trung, Nam \u0111\u00e3 c\u00f3 nhi\u1ec1u thay \u0111\u1ed5i. H\u1ecd th\u01b0\u1eddng m\u1eb7c \u00e1o d\u00e0i, c\u1ed5 \u00e1o tr\u00f2n \u0111\u1ee9ng. T \u1eeb vai \u0111\u1ebfn c\u1ed5 tay \u00e1o nh\u1ecf d\u1ea7n, d\u1ecdc \u1ed1ng tay \u00e1o m\u1edf m\u1ed9t \u0111o\u1ea1n (d\u00e0i ch\u1eebng 3cm), sau khi m\u1eb7c c\u00e0i k\u00edn b\u1eb1ng c\u00fac b\u1ea5m cho tay \u00e1o kh\u00edt v\u00e0o c\u1ed5 tay. G\u1ea5u \u00e1o d\u00e0i c\u00e1ch \u0111\u1ea5t t\u1eeb 10cm-20cm). Khi m\u1eb7c \u00e1o, c\u00e0i c\u00fac c\u1ea1nh, chi\u1ebfc c\u00fac \u1edf c\u1ed5 nhi\u1ec1u khi kh\u00f4ng c\u00e0i, g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 \u00e1o c\u1ed5 h\u1edf (ri\u00eang ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef v\u00f9ng Qu\u1ea3ng Tr\u1ecb, Th\u1eeba Thi\u00ean v\u00e0 th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 Hu\u1ebf m\u1eb7c \u00e1o c\u00e0i k\u00edn c\u1ed5). Ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef mi\u1ec1n Nam th\u01b0\u1eddng m\u1eb7c \u00e1o d\u00e0i \u0111\u1ebfn \u0111\u1ea7u g\u1ed1i, ph\u1ee7 l\u00ean chi\u1ebfc qu\u1ea7n l\u0129nh \u0111en. T\u00f3c ch\u1ea3i ng\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u00ean r\u1ed3i b\u00fai g\u1ecdn sau \u0111\u00e0u, c\u00e0i tr\u00e2m v\u00e0ng hay c\u00e0i hai c\u00e1i l\u01b0\u1ee3c cong \u1edf hai b\u00ean \u0111\u1ec3 gi\u1eef b\u00fai t\u00f3c cho kh\u1ecfi tu\u1ed9t. Ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef H\u00e0 N\u1ed9i giai \u0111o\u1ea1n n\u00e0y d\u1ea7n d\u1ea7n b\u1ecf m\u1eb7c v\u00e1y. H\u1ecd m\u1eb7c qu\u1ea7n m\u00e0u \u0111en b\u1eb1ng v\u1ea3i l\u0129nh, n\u00e1i, sa tanh hay qu\u1ea7n m\u00e0u tr\u1eafng b\u1eb1ng l\u1ee5a, lanh, v\u1ea5n kh\u0103n nhung \u0111en, \u0111\u1ec3 t\u00f3c \u0111u\u00f4i g\u00e0. H\u00ecnh th\u1ee9c ch\u1ea3i t\u00f3c l\u00fac \u0111\u00e0u ng\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u00ean r\u1ed3i b\u1edbi g\u1ecdn ph\u00eda sau \u0111\u1ec9nh \u0111\u1ea7u, \u0111\u1ebfn giai \u0111o\u1ea1n b\u00fai \u1edf g\u00e1y, v\u1ec1 sau l\u1ea1i h\u1ea1 th\u1ea5p xu\u1ed1ng n\u1eefa. R\u1ebd ng\u00f4i gi\u1eefa, v\u1ea5n t\u00f3c tr\u1ea7n th\u01b0\u1eddng l\u00e0 ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef Qu\u1ea3ng Tr\u1ecb, Th\u1eeba Thi\u00ean, Hu\u1ebf. Ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef mi\u1ec1n Nam v\u1eabn b\u00fai t\u00f3c cao, c\u00e0i tr\u00e2m (l\u00f4ng nh\u00edm). H\u00e0ng ng\u00e0y t\u00f3c th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ch\u1ea3i, xoa b\u1eb1ng d\u1ea7u d\u1eeba \u0111\u1ec3 b\u1ea3o v\u1ec7 v\u00e0 nu\u00f4i t\u00f3c \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u00f3ng \u1ea3, m\u01b0\u1ee3t m\u00e0. ril4 \\\\","(o\u00e9iPh\u1ee5 n\u1eefiti\u1ec3u th\u01b0\u01a1ng th\u00e0nh th\u1ecb, ngo\u1ea1i th\u00e0nh mi\u1ec1n B\u1eafc th\u01b0\u1eddng'm\u1eb7c \u00e1o c\u00e1nh tr\u1eafng hay n\u00e2u, m\u1edf ho\u1eb7c k\u00edn t\u00e0. C\u1ed5 \u00e1o h\u00ecnh tr\u00f2n; h\u00ecnh qu\u1ea3 tim; c\u1ed5 vu\u00f4ng ho\u1eb7c c\u1ed5 th\u00eca.:.\\\"\u00c1o d\u00e0i't\u1ee9 th\u00e2n n\u00e2u, non bu\u1ed9c v\u1ea1t, th\u1ea3 m\u00fai ph\u00eda tr\u01b0\u1edbc. C\u00f3 ng\u01b0\u1eddi m\u1eb7c ki\u1ec3u hai v\u1ea1t qu\u1eb7t ch\u00e9o'bu\u1ed9c \u1edf sau l\u01b0ng. Ngo\u00e0i ra h\u1ecd c\u00f2n m\u1eb7c lo\u1ea1i \u00e1o g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 \u00e1o d\u00e0i \u0111\u1ed5i vai, g\u1ed3m nh\u1eefng mi\u1ebfng v\u1ea3i kh\u00e1c m\u00e0u n\u1ed1i \u1edf l\u01b0ng, vai v\u00e0 ph\u00eda tr\u00ean c\u00e1nh tay ho\u1eb7c \u1edf ph\u00edaid\u01b0\u1edbi hai v\u1ea1t tr\u01b0\u1edbc^ v\u00e0 sau. \u0110\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t nh\u1eefng mi\u1ebfng \u0111\u1ed5i 'm\u00e0u th\u01b0\u1eddng m ay'SO le nhau.' H\u1ecd v\u1ea5n kh\u0103n v\u1ea3i hay nhung \u0111en, ch\u00edt kh\u0103n m\u1ecf qu\u1ea1, m\u1eb7c qu\u1ea7n \u0111en b\u1eb1ng v\u1ea3i l\u00e1ng,' phi ho\u1eb7c l\u1ee5a, th\u1eaft bao l\u01b0ng (ru\u1ed9t t\u01b0\u1ee3ng) b\u00ean'trong \u00e1o d\u00e0i v\u00e0 \u00e1o c\u00e1nh. Ru\u1ed9t t\u01b0\u1ee3ng l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t \u1ed1ng v\u1ea3i d\u00e0i kho\u1ea3ng ISOcm, r\u1ed9ng 15cm, hai \u0111\u1ea7u h\u00ecnh'ch\u00e9o v\u00e1t, b\u00ean trong \u0111\u1ec3 ti\u1ec1niv\u00e0 gi\u1ea5y t\u1edd, th\u1eaft m\u00fai th\u1ea3'ph\u00eda tr\u01b0\u1edbc. Bao l\u01b0ng th\u01b0\u1eddng m\u00e0u xanh,i v\u00e0ng chanh hay hoa l\u00fd, h\u1ed3ng \u0111i\u00eau..i' ' b \\\" ' \\\" li \\\"d d V\u00e0o'ng\u00e0y h\u1ed9i,'ph\u1ee5 \u01b0\u1eef mi\u1ec1n^B\u1eafc m\u1eb7c c\u00e1c'ki\u1ec3u trang ph\u1ee5c C\u1ed5 truy\u1ec1n, \u0111\u1ed3ng th\u1eddi bi\u1ebft kh\u00e9o l\u00e9\u00f3 s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng nhi\u1ec1u m\u00e0\u00f9 s\u1eafc t\u1ef1 nhi\u00ean;^g\u1ea7n g\u0169i'V\u00d3'i cu\u1ed9c s\u1ed5ng l\u00e0m'cho b\u1ed9 trang ph\u1ee5c bi\u1ec3u l\u1ed9 r\u00f5 xu h\u01b0\u1edbng th\u1ea9m m\u1ef9. l\u00ed\/i\\\" .n\u00f3'J r\u1ec9n\u00edrl n\u00f2n ,(rncJ cd B\u1ed9 \u00e1o m\u1edb ba'trong nh\u1eefng ng\u00e0y xu\u00e2n'tr\u1ea9y h\u1ed9i n\u01a1i \u0111\u00ecnh l\u00e0ng l\u00e0 trang ph\u1ee5c \u0111i\u1ec3n h\u00ecnh c\u1ee7a nh\u1eefng c\u00f4 g\u00e1i Kinh B\u1eafc. \u0110\u00f3 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t b\u1ed9 \u00e1o d\u00e0i ba chi\u1ebfc: ngo\u00e0i'c\u00f9ng l\u00e0 \u1ea5o t\u1ee9 th\u00e2n b\u1eb1ng the m\u00e0u th\u00e2m hay m\u00e0u n\u00e2u ho\u1eb7c m\u00e0u tam'giang, hai chi\u1ebfc \u1ecf\u201d trong m\u00e0u m\u1ee1 g\u00e0 v\u00e0\u00edc\u00e1nhisen, v\u00e0ng chanh v\u00e0 h\u1ed3 thu\u1ef7,jC\u1ed5 \u00e1o tr\u00f2n, v\u1ea1t th\u1eb3ng, tay \u00e1o b\u00f3, c\u1ed5 tay x\u1ebb!m\u1ed9t \u0111o\u1ea1n \u0111\u1ec3 x\u1ecf tay \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c d\u1ec5 d\u00e0ng. : ;Bup \u00edi '\u25a0 ' og ob ob\u00ec nob Obd^ \u1ef5bb \u00c1o d\u00e0i th\u01b0\u1eddng c\u00e0i c\u00fac c\u1ea1nh s\u01b0\u1eddn, \u0111o\u1ea1n t\u1eeb\u1ecbn\u00e1ch i\u00ean c\u1ed5 l\u1eadt ch\u00e9o \u0111\u1ec3 l\u1ed9iba m\u00e0u \u00e1o ra ngo\u00e0ii B\u00ean'trong l\u00e0 \u00e1o\u1ec9c\u00e1nh tr\u1eafng kh\u00f4ng c\u00e0i c\u00fac c\u1ed1, t\u00f4n m\u00e0u y\u1ebfm hoa hi\u00ean hay \u0111\u1ecf th\u1eafm, rii","c\u1ed5 y\u1ebfm c\u00f3 hai d\u1ea3i b\u01a1i ch\u00e8o [v\u00ec tr\u00f4ng gi\u1ed1ng chi\u1ebfc b\u01a1i ch\u00e8o) bu\u1ed9c sau g\u00e1y \u0111\u1ec3 l\u1ed9 ra ph\u00eda ngo\u00e0i nh\u1eefng l\u1edbp \u00e1o. V\u1edbi vi\u1ec7c kh\u00e9o ch\u1ecdn m\u00e0u s\u1eafc, c\u00e1ch m\u1eb7c \u00e1o v\u1ea1t bu\u00f4ng, th\u1eaft t\u1ebf nh\u1ecb khi\u1ebfn trang ph\u1ee5c c\u1ee7a ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef ni\u1ec1n B\u1eafc tr\u00f4ng h\u1ea5p d\u1eabn m\u00e0 v\u1eabn gi\u1eef \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1ef1 n\u1ec1n n\u00e3, k\u00edn \u0111\u00e1o, h\u00e0i ho\u00e0. Ngo\u00e0i \u00e1o d\u00e0i, ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef mi\u1ec1n B\u1eafc c\u00f2n m\u1eb7c v\u00e1y l\u01b0\u1ee1i trai b\u1ea3y b\u1ee9c b\u1eb1ng l\u0129nh hay s\u1ed3i \u0111en d\u00e0i ch\u1ea5m g\u00f3t. C\u1ea1p v\u00e1y bao gi\u1edd c\u0169ng may r\u1ed9ng b\u1ea3n, kho\u1ea3ng t\u1eeb 8cm - lOcm, m\u00e0u s\u00e1ng nh\u01b0 xanh, v\u00e0ng chanh hay h\u1ed3ng \u0111i\u1ec1u. M\u00e0u \u0111en c\u1ee7a v\u00e1y l\u00e0m n\u1ec1n cho nh\u1eefng d\u1ea3i th\u1eaft l\u01b0ng b\u1eb1ng v\u1ea3i s\u1ed3i hay l\u1ee5a t\u01a1 t\u1eb1m m\u00e0u m\u1ee1 g\u00e0, m\u00e0u h\u1ed3ng \u0111\u00e0o, m\u00e0u hoa thi\u00ean l\u00fd. C\u0169ng c\u00f3 khi h\u1ecd m\u1eb7c chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o d\u00e0i m\u00e0u [xanh, h\u1ed3ng ho\u1eb7c hoa hi\u00ean...) b\u1eb1ng l\u1ee5a T\u00e2y H\u1ed3, c\u00e0i khuy c\u1ea1nh, ngo\u00e0i l\u00e0 \u00e1o d\u00e0i the th\u00e2m La C\u1ea3 l\u00e0m d\u1ecbu m\u00e0u \u00e1o b\u00ean trong, t\u1ea1o n\u00ean m\u1ed9t s\u1ef1 h\u00e0i ho\u00e0 th\u1eadt \u0111\u1ed9c \u0111\u00e1o. Ngo\u00e0i \u00e1o, h\u1ecd m\u1eb7c v\u00e1y hay qu\u1ea7n l\u0129nh B\u01b0\u1edfi, th\u1eaft l\u01b0ng m\u00e0u l\u1ee5c hay m\u00e0u t\u00edm tam giang, bu\u1ed9c m\u00fai ra ngo\u00e0i v\u1ea1t \u00e1o tr\u01b0\u1edbc. V\u00e0o ng\u00e0y h\u1ed9i, h\u1ecd \u0111\u1ed9i n\u00f3n quai thao (n\u00f3n th\u00fang hay n\u00f3n ba t\u1ea7m). N\u00f3n h\u00ecnh tr\u00f2n, m\u1eb7t tr\u00ean b\u1eb1ng, xung quanh c\u00f3 g\u1edd d\u00e0y kho\u1ea3ng lOcm - 12cm b\u1eb1ng l\u00e1 g\u1ed3i, kh\u00e2u d\u00e2y m\u00f3c. M\u1eb7t d\u01b0\u1edbi, \u1edf gi\u1eefa g\u1eafn m\u1ed9t \u1ed1ng h\u00ecnh tr\u00f2n b\u1eb1ng tre \u0111an \u0111\u1ec3 l\u00e0m ch\u1ed7 d\u1ef1a \u0111\u1ed9i l\u00ean \u0111\u1ea7u cho c\u00e2n g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 ch\u0169m n\u00f3n. Quanh ch\u0169m n\u00f3n l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng v\u00f2ng tre chu\u1ed1t nh\u1ecf, kh\u00e2u b\u1eb1ng ch\u1ec9 t\u01a1, \u0111an ch\u00e9o s\u1ee3i v\u1edbi nhau r\u1ea5t c\u00f4ng phu, trang tr\u00ed h\u00ecnh b\u01b0\u1edbm hay nh\u1eefng b\u00f4ng hoa b\u1eb1ng ch\u1ec9 nhi\u1ec1u m\u00e0u. Quai n\u00f3n l\u00e0m b\u1eb1ng d\u00e2y thao \u0111en [do \u0111\u00f3 g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 n\u00f3n quai thao), g\u1ed3m t\u1eeb m\u1ed9t \u0111\u1ebfn ba d\u00e2y ch\u1eadp l\u1ea1i bu\u00f4ng xu\u1ed1ng \u0111\u1ebfn th\u1eaft l\u01b0ng, (c\u00f3 khi quai n\u00f3n l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t d\u1ea3i v\u1ea3i d\u00e0i), Hai \u0111\u1ea7u quai n\u00f3n m\u1ed7i b\u00ean c\u00f3 n\u0103m, b\u1ea3y \u0111\u1ebfn m\u01b0\u1eddi nh\u00f3m tua nh\u1ecf, d\u00e0i kho\u1ea3ng 25cm - 30cm. \u1eca116","D\u01b0\u1edbi ch\u00e2n h\u1ecd \u0111i \u0111\u00f4i d\u00e9p cong [b\u1eb1ng da tr\u00e2u) hay \u0111\u00f4i gu\u1ed1c cong b\u1eb1ng g\u1ed7 s\u01a1n \u0111en, quai t\u1ebft b\u1eb1ng da hay m\u00e2y [m\u1ed9t quai ngang ho\u1eb7c hai quai ch\u00e9o). Ngo\u00e0i ra, h\u1ecd c\u00f2n \u0111eo b\u00ean m\u00ecnh m\u1ed9t b\u1ed9 x\u00e0 t\u00edch b\u1eb1ng b\u1ea1c, \u1ed1ng \u0111\u1ef1ng v\u00f4i b\u1eb1ng b\u1ea1c v\u00e0 con dao nh\u1ecf, chu\u00f4i b\u1eb1ng s\u1eebng, v\u1eeba l\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed3 trang s\u1ee9c \u0111\u1ed3ng th\u1eddi d\u00f9ng \u0111\u1ec3 b\u1ed5 cau, t\u00eam tr\u1ea7u. \u0110\u1ed3 trang s\u1ee9c c\u1ee7a ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef mi\u1ec1n B\u1eafc thu\u1ed9c t\u1ea7ng l\u1edbp tr\u00ean g\u1ed3m chu\u1ed7i h\u1ed9t v\u00e0ng \u0111eo c\u1ed5, c\u00e0ng gi\u00e0u c\u00f3 c\u00e0ng qu\u1ea5n nhi\u1ec1u v\u00f2ng, c\u1ed5 tay \u0111eo v\u00f2ng v\u00e0ng, v\u00f2ng ng\u1ecdc th\u1ea1ch ho\u1eb7c xuy\u1ebfn v\u00e0ng. Xuy\u1ebfn l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t lo\u1ea1i v\u00f2ng m\u00ecnh d\u1eb9t, hai \u0111\u1ea7u kho\u1eb1m \u00f4m v\u00e0o m\u00ecnh xuy\u1ebfn, c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 n\u1edbi r\u1ed9ng ra \u0111\u1ec3 l\u1ed3ng b\u00e0n tay v\u00e0o r\u1ed3i th\u00edt cho v\u1eeba c\u1ed5 tay. Xuy\u1ebfn m\u1eb7t nh\u1eb5n g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 xuy\u1ebfn tr\u01a1n. Xuy\u1ebfn ch\u1ea1m tr\u1ed5 g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 xuy\u1ebfn ch\u1ea1m. Nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi gi\u00e0u l\u00e0m xuy\u1ebfn to b\u1ea3n t\u1edbi 4cm c\u00f2n th\u00f4ng th\u01b0\u1eddng l\u00e0 7-8mm chi\u1ec1u ngang. Ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef Qu\u1ea3ng Tr\u1ecb, Th\u1eeba Thi\u00ean, Hu\u1ebf \u0111eo ki\u1ec1ng v\u00e0ng [ki\u1ec1ng v\u00e0ng l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t v\u00f2ng tr\u00f2n h\u00ecnh \u1ed1ng, \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng k\u00ednh ti\u1ebft di\u1ec7n kho\u1ea3ng d\u01b0\u1edbi Icm , ch\u1ea1m tr\u1ed5 xung quanh ho\u1eb7c \u0111\u1ec3 tr\u01a1n), c\u1ed5 tay \u0111eo xuy\u1ebfn. N\u1ebfu l\u00e0 xuy\u1ebfn ch\u1ea1m, th\u01b0\u1eddng l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t chi\u1ebfc to, xuy\u1ebfn tr\u01a1n g\u1ed3m nhi\u1ec1u chi\u1ebfc nh\u1ecf, \u0111eo ra ngo\u00e0i tay \u00e1o. Ng\u00f3n tay \u0111eo nh\u1eabn v\u00e0ng tr\u01a1n hay m\u1eb7t ng\u1ecdc. Ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef mi\u1ec1n Nam thu\u1ed9c t\u1ea7ng l\u1edbp kh\u00e1 gi\u1ea3 \u0111eo chu\u1ed7i h\u1ea1t v\u00e0ng qu\u1ea5n nhi\u1ec1u v\u00f2ng quanh c\u1ed5, th\u1ea3 tr\u1ec5 xu\u1ed1ng ng\u1ef1c. Ngo\u00e0i ra h\u1ecd c\u00f2n \u0111eo d\u00e2y chuy\u1ec1n n\u00e1ch, m\u1ed9t lo\u1ea1i d\u00e2y b\u1eb1ng v\u00e0ng v\u00f2ng qua c\u1ed5, \u0111eo ch\u00e9o xu\u1ed1ng n\u00e1ch. Ch\u00e2n \u0111i \u0111\u00f4i gu\u1ed1c \u0111\u1ebf g\u1ed7 ho\u1eb7c \u0111i v\u0103n h\u00e0i... V\u1edbi ch\u00ednh s\u00e1ch cai tr\u1ecb c\u1ee7a Ph\u00e1p, l\u00e0n s\u00f3ng v\u0103n ho\u00e1 T\u00e2y \u00c2u tr\u00e0n v\u00e0o Vi\u1ec7t Nam \u0111\u00e3 \u1ea3nh h\u01b0\u1edfng t\u1edbi th\u1ecb hi\u1ebfu c\u1ee7a t\u1ea7ng l\u1edbp t\u01b0 s\u1ea3n, ti\u1ec3u t\u01b0 s\u1ea3n, \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t l\u00e0 thanh ni\u00ean th\u00e0nh th\u1ecb","rp I>.. MHPIII I ' 1*:: \u1eeft*\u1eef ,0 3 \\\"|;tj\u1ecb\u00ed \u00ec\u00edn \u00f3v inrl riLv \u25a0 tr\u01a1ng c\u00e1ciphong tr\u00e0o \\\"S\u1ed1ng m\u1edbi\\\"> \\\"Vu\u1ecb kho\u1ebb\\\"iinTr\u1ebb tr\u1ee5ng\\\". N\u0103m 1935\u00bb,\u1edf H\u00e0 N\u1ed9i, \u1eb7o d\u00e0i \u201cL\u01a1 Muya\\\" x\u1ee5\u1ea1t hi\u1ec7n v\u1edbi c\u00e1c ki\u1ec3u \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c xem l\u00e0 \\\"m\u1ed1t t\u00e2n ti\u1ebfn\\\". \u00c1o vai b\u1ed3ng, tay m\u0103ng s\u00e9t","[nh\u01b0 tay \u00e1o s\u01a1 mi nam) hay tay chun. C\u1ed5 \u00e1o tr\u00f2n kho\u00e9t s\u00e2u xu\u1ed1ng ng\u1ef1c, vi\u1ec1n \u0111\u0103ng ten, ho\u1eb7c ki\u1ec3u l\u00e1 sen tr\u00f2n, l\u00e1 sen c\u00e0i v\u1eaft ch\u00e9o... G\u1ea5u \u00e1o c\u1eaft h\u00ecnh s\u00f3ng l\u01b0\u1ee3n, \u0111\u00e1p v\u1ea3i kh\u00e1c m\u00e0u hay \u0111\u00ednh nh\u1eefng \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u0103ng ten di\u00eam d\u00faa. Nhi\u1ec1u chi ti\u1ebft c\u1ee7a \u00e1o d\u00e0i \\\"L\u01a1 Muya\\\" gi\u1ed1ng \u00e1o, v\u00e1y c\u1ee7a ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef ch\u00e2u \u00c2u th\u1eddi gian \u0111\u00f3. N\u0103m 1939, \u00e1o d\u00e0i \\\"L\u01a1 Muya\\\" c\u00f3 \u00edt nhi\u1ec1u c\u1ea3i ti\u1ebfn: c\u1ed5 \u00e1o \u0111\u1ee9ng cao t\u1eeb 1 \u0111\u1ebfn 2 cm, tay th\u1eb3ng, may li\u1ec1n v\u1ea3i, c\u1ed5 tay h\u1eb9p, vi\u1ec1n nh\u1ecf. C\u00f3 ki\u1ec3u \u1edf c\u1eeda tay, g\u1ea5u, n\u1eb9p c\u00e0i c\u00fac \u0111\u1ec1u vi\u1ec1n v\u1ea3i kh\u00e1c m\u00e0u th\u00e0nh \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng n\u1eb9p r\u1ed9ng kho\u1ea3ng 0,5cm g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 \u00e1o l\u00e9 n\u1eb9p. C\u00f3 ki\u1ec3u g\u1ea5u \u00e1o v\u00ea tr\u00f2n l\u1eb3n, kh\u00f4ng g\u1eadp. Sau m\u1ed9t th\u1eddi gian, chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o d\u00e0i truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng l\u1ea1i \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ph\u1ee5c h\u1ed3i. Ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef th\u00e0nhith\u1ecb ti\u1ec3u t\u01b0 s\u1ea3n, ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef cao tu\u1ed5i th\u01b0\u1eddng m\u1eb7c \u00e1o d\u00e0i c\u1ed5 \u0111\u1ee9ng cao t\u1eeb 1\u0111\u1ebfn 2 cm, g\u00f3c th\u1eb3ng, qu\u1ea7n \u0111en. C\u00e1c c\u00f4 g\u00e1i th\u01b0\u1eddng m\u1eb7c \u00e1o c\u1ed5 cao t\u1eeb 4cm \u0111\u1ebfn 7cm d\u1ef1ng b\u1eb1ng v\u1ea3i h\u1ed3 c\u1ee9ng, g\u00f3c tr\u00f2n. V\u1ea1t,\u00e1o l\u01b0\u1ee3n, t\u00e0 kh\u00e9p, qu\u1ea7n)tr\u1eafng, .on\u00f2uv \u25a0 -uh \u25a0\u25a0\u25a0.i? \u00f3l u -:-1,1.07 t\u00ed \u2022 !:,0 Trong nh\u1eefng n\u0103m kh\u00e1ng chi\u1ebfn ch\u1ed1ng Ph\u00e1p, trang ph\u1ee5c c\u1ee7a ph\u1ee5\u1ecbn\u1eef n\u00f4ng th\u00f4n c\u00f3 nhi\u1ec1u thay \u0111\u1ed5i \u0111\u1ec3 ph\u00f9 h\u1ee3p v\u1edbi cu\u1ed9c s\u1ed1ng v\u1eeba lao \u0111\u1ed9ng s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t, v\u1eeba chi\u1ebfn \u0111\u1ea5u. H\u1ecd m\u1eb7c \u00e1o c\u00e1nh n\u00e2u, c\u1ed5 tr\u00f2n hay c\u1ed5 qu\u1ea3 tim, trong m\u1eb7c \u00e1oil\u00f3t kh\u00f4ng tay, qu\u1eb7n \u0111\u1eb9n b\u1eb1ng y\u1ead\u1ecb\u00ed phin hay ,\u1eca\u00e1ng. \u1ecbV\u1ea5n\u1ecb kh\u0103n v\u00e0 ch\u00edt kh\u0103n yq\u00f4ng m\u1ecf q\u1ee5\u1ea1, ,Nh\u1eefng,ng\u1ef1\u1ee3i tho\u00e1t \u1ecay l\u00e0m c\u00e1n b\u1ed9 m\u1eb7c \u00e1\u1ecd ki\u1ec3u s\u01a1 mi \u0111\u1ea1i.c\u00e1n\/ tay -th\u1eb3ng,fC0j h\u00ecph c\u00e1nh nh\u1ea1,hK \u00e1o th\u01b0\u1eddng mayib\u1eb1ng v i\u1ec9 m\u00e0u xanh ho\u00e0\u00edh\u00ecnh hay ka ki m\u00e0u xi m\u0103ng, m\u00e0u be h\u1ed3ng; t\u00f3e b\u00far ho\u1eb7c c\u1eb7p l\u1ea1i; \u0111i d\u00e9p cao su \u0111en. Th\u1eddi gi\u00e1n n\u00e0y,f \u1edf y V\u00d9ng t\u1ecaT do h\u00e0u mb\u1ef1 v\u1eafng b\u00f3ng nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o d\u00e0tm\u00e0u s\u1eafcc\u1ee7am \u1eefth\u00e1rih ni\u00ean nh\u01b0ng c\u00e2e b\u00e0, c\u00e1c c\u1ee5 v\u1eabn n\u1ec9\u1eb7c \u00e1o t\u1ee9 th\u00e2n \u0111i l\u1ec5, \u0111i h\u1ed9i, \u0111i h\u1ecdp.., grr\u00f3ud\u00ed q\u00f2>l o\u1ed3) !\u00a3\u00edi \u1edf mi\u1ebfn Trung V\u00e0 thi\u1ec1n N\u1ea7m^ ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef v\u1eabn gi\u1eef \u0111\u1eeb\u1ee3c ti\u1ec3n 1191","n\u1ebfp \u0103n m\u1eb7c truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng, \u1edf v\u00f9ng Ph\u00e1p t\u1ea1m chi\u1ebfm c\u0169ng kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 g\u00ec thay \u0111\u1ed5i \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t l\u1eafm trong t\u1ea7ng l\u1edbp ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef lao \u0111\u1ed9ng, ti\u1ec3u th\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u00e0 m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef ti\u1ec3u t\u01b0 s\u1ea3n. Sau khi ho\u00e0 b\u00ecnh \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u1eadp l\u1ea1i, \u1edf mi\u1ec1n B\u1eafc, ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef th\u00e0nh th\u1ecb, n\u00f4ng th\u00f4n \u0111\u1ec1u t\u00edch c\u1ef1c tham gia ho\u1ea1t \u0111\u1ed9ng x\u00e3 h\u00f4i. \u0110\u1ec3 ph\u00f9 h\u1ee3p v\u1edbi cu\u1ed9c s\u1ed1ng m\u1edbi, ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef th\u00e0nh th\u1ecb d\u1ea7n d\u1ea7n thay \u0111\u1ed5i c\u00e1ch \u0103n m\u1eb7c. Ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef cao tu\u1ed5i th\u01b0\u1eddng m\u1eb7c \u00e1o c\u00e1nh ng\u1eafn ho\u1eb7c \u00e1o b\u00e0 ba, may s\u00e1t eo, t\u00e0 r\u1ed9ng, th\u00e2n d\u00e0i, \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng g\u1ea5u cong h\u00ecnh v\u00e0nh l\u01b0\u1ee3c, c\u1eeda tay r\u1ed9ng; c\u1ed5 \u00e1o h\u00ecnh qu\u1ea3 tim ho\u1eb7c c\u1ed5 th\u00eca, c\u1ed5 vu\u00f4ng... may b\u1eb1ng c\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i v\u1ea3i m\u1ecfng nh\u01b0 phin n\u00f5n, l\u1ee5a, p\u00f4-p\u01a1-lin... C\u00e1n b\u1ed9, nh\u00e2n vi\u00ean c\u01a1 quan, x\u00ed nghi\u1ec7p th\u01b0\u1eddng m\u1eb7c \u00e1o s\u01a1 mi ki\u1ec3u H\u1ed3ng K\u00f4ng, c\u1ed5 b\u1ebb, tay th\u1ee5ng. H\u1ea7u h\u1ebft n\u1eef thanh ni\u00ean m\u1eb7c \u00e1o s\u01a1 mi chi\u1ebft eo hay ki\u1ec3u H\u1ed3ng K\u00f4ng b\u00f3. Tay \u00e1o d\u00e0i, c\u1eeda tay c\u00f3 m\u0103ng s\u00e9t to ho\u1eb7c nh\u1ecf, tay l\u1eedng hay \u00e1o c\u1ed9c tay, vai b\u1ed3ng. C\u00e1c ki\u1ec3u c\u1ed5 \u00e1o: hai ve, l\u00e1 sen n\u1eb1m, l\u00e1 sen \u0111\u1ee9ng, l\u00e1 sen vu\u00f4ng, m\u1ed9t ve nh\u1ecdn v.v... \u00c1o may b\u1eb1ng nhi\u1ec1u lo\u1ea1i v\u1ea3i v\u00e0 nhi\u1ec1u m\u00e0u s\u1eafc, \u0111i\u1ec3m hoa ho\u1eb7c k\u1ebb \u00f4, k\u1ebb s\u1ecdc. Qu\u1ea7n m\u00e0u \u0111en \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c d\u00f9ng ph\u1ed5 bi\u1ebfn trong m\u1ecdi t\u1ea7ng l\u1edbp, th\u01b0\u1eddng may b\u1eb1ng l\u1ee5a ch\u00e9o, l\u1ee5a tr\u01a1n, l\u1ee5a hoa hay sa tanh, lanh, ph\u00edp v.v... M\u00f9a r\u00e9t, ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef th\u01b0\u1eddng m\u1eb7c \u00e1o b\u00f4ng T\u00e0u: c\u1ed5 \u00e1o \u0111\u1ee9ng cao 5cm (nh\u01b0 c\u1ed5 \u00e1o d\u00e0i) vai tra, c\u1eeda tay r\u1ed9ng. \u00c1o th\u1eaft eo, t\u00e0 r\u1ed9ng, ch\u1ea7n m\u1ecfng, c\u00e0i khuy, khuy th\u01b0\u1eddng b\u1eb1ng v\u1ea3i t\u1ebft h\u00ecnh chi\u1ebfc l\u00e1 hay h\u00ecnh b\u01b0\u1edbm c\u00f9ng m\u00e0u v\u1edbi v\u1ea3i \u00e1o. Ki\u1ec3u \u00e1o b\u00f4ng n\u00e0y m\u1eb7c g\u1ecdn v\u00e0 \u0111\u1eb9p. C\u00f2n \u00e1o k\u00e9p l\u00e0 lo\u1ea1i \u00e1o may b\u1eb1ng hai l\u1ea7n v\u1ea3i d\u00e0y nh\u01b0 nhung, ho\u1eb7c sa tanh hoa hay tr\u01a1n... c\u0169ng may nh\u01b0 h\u00ecnh th\u1ee9c \u00e1o b\u00f4ng T\u00e0u nh\u01b0ng \u1edf gi\u1eefa kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 b\u00f4ng (\u00e1o k\u00e9p th\u01b0\u1eddng m\u1eb7c v\u00e0o m\u00f9a thu). C\u00e1c c\u00f4 g\u00e1i m\u1eb7c \u00e1o v\u00e9t H\u1ed3ng K\u00f4ng c\u00f3 ly hay may th\u1eb3ng, b\u1eb1ng v\u1ea3i ka ki d\u00e0y, c\u1ed1 hai (120","ve nh\u1ecdn, tr\u00f2n ho\u1eb7c l\u00e1 sen \u0111\u1ee9ng, c\u00fac c\u00e0i \u1edf gi\u1eefa hay c\u00e0i l\u1ec7ch b\u00ean ng\u1ef1c, hai t\u00fai th\u1eb3ng ho\u1eb7c ch\u00e9o, tay th\u1eb3ng, g\u1ea5u tay g\u1eadp v\u00e0o trong hay l\u1eadt ra ngo\u00e0i. Ngo\u00e0i \u00e1o v\u00e9t c\u00f2n c\u00f3 \u00e1o len c\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i: d\u00e0i tay ho\u1eb7c kh\u00f4ng tay, \u00e1o m\u1edf, c\u00e0i c\u00fac, hay chui \u0111\u1ea7u, th\u00e2n \u00e1o d\u00e0i \u0111\u1ebfn c\u1ea1p qu\u1ea7n, m\u1eb7c ra ngo\u00e0i \u00e1o s\u01a1 mi hay trong \u00e1o v\u00e9t, c\u1ed5 qu\u00e0ng kh\u0103n san, kh\u0103n nil\u00f4ng, kh\u0103n hoa ho\u1eb7c kh\u0103n len... Nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111\u1ee9ng tu\u1ed5i th\u01b0\u1eddng qu\u1ea5n t\u00f3c tr\u1ea7n, b\u00fai t\u00f3c ho\u1eb7c u\u1ed1n t\u00f3c, n\u1eef thanh ni\u00ean c\u1eb7p t\u00f3c, t\u1ebft \u0111u\u00f4i sam, c\u1eaft t\u00f3c ng\u1eafn \u0111\u1ebfn ngang vai ho\u1eb7c u\u1ed1n t\u00f3c; \u0111i gu\u1ed1c g\u1ed7, gu\u1ed1c nh\u1ef1a \u0111\u1ebf b\u1eb1ng, ho\u1eb7c cao g\u00f3t t\u1eeb 5cm - 7cm - 9cm, l\u00f2ng m\u00e1ng, c\u00f3 m\u1ed9t quai ngang hay hai quai ch\u00e9o ho\u1eb7c d\u00e9p l\u00ea b\u1eb1ng nh\u1ef1a nhi\u1ec1u ki\u1ec3u v\u00e0 nhi\u1ec1u m\u00e0u kh\u00e1c nhau. Th\u1eddi gian n\u00e0y, trang ph\u1ee5c lao \u0111\u1ed9ng c\u1ee7a ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef tr\u1edf n\u00ean \u0111a d\u1ea1ng do vi\u1ec7c h\u1ecd tham gia v\u00e0o c\u00e1c ng\u00e0nh ngh\u1ec1 kh\u00e1c nhau. N\u1eef c\u00f4ng nh\u00e2n m\u1eb7c qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o b\u1ea3o h\u1ed9 lao \u0111\u1ed9ng m\u00e0u t\u00edm than hay \u00e1o s\u01a1 mi tr\u1eafng, qu\u1ea7n t\u00edm than li\u1ec1n y\u1ebfm. T\u00f3c c\u1eb7p g\u1ecdn l\u00ean cao, c\u1eaft ng\u1eafn hay u\u1ed1n, \u0111\u1ed9i m\u0169 l\u01b0\u1ee1i trai hay tr\u00f9m bao t\u00f3c b\u1eb1ng v\u1ea3i ho\u1eb7c bu\u1ed9c ch\u00e9o tr\u00ean \u0111\u1ea7u chi\u1ebfc kh\u0103n nhi\u1ec1u m\u00e0u, ch\u00e2n \u0111i gi\u00e0y ba-ta, gi\u00e0y v\u1ea3i, d\u00e9p cao su \u0111en ho\u1eb7c \\\"bot .. Ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef ng\u00e0nh y t\u1ebf m\u1eb7c \u00e1o b\u1edd lu (blouse) d\u00e0i m\u00e0u tr\u1eafng, qu\u1ea7n v\u1ea3i tr\u1eafng, \u0111\u1ed9i m\u0169 tr\u00f2n tr\u1eafng khi l\u00e0m vi\u1ec7c. N\u1eef m\u1eadu d\u1ecbch vi\u00ean m\u1eb7c \u00e1o s\u01a1 mi c\u1ed5 hai ve, tay th\u1eb3ng r\u1ed9ng, m\u00e0u xanh h\u00f2a b\u00ecnh hay m\u00e0u tr\u1eafng. Phu n\u1eef lao \u0111\u1ed9ng \u1edf th\u00e0nh thi v<\u00e0 n\u1ed3ng th\u00f4n Trung B\u1ed9 th\u01b0\u00f2 ng m\u1eb7c \u00e1o c\u00e1nh ng\u1eafn hay \u00e1o b\u00e0 ba b\u1eb1ng nhi\u1ec1u lo\u1ea1i v\u1ea3i v\u00e0 nhi\u1ec1u m\u00e0u kh\u00e1c nhau, qu\u1ea7n m\u00e0u \u0111en, \u1ed1ng r\u1ed9ng, b\u1eb1ng sa tanh hay ni l\u00f4ng, t\u00f3c b\u00fai g\u1ecdn sau g\u00e1y, c\u00f3 ng\u01b0\u1eddi v\u1ea5n kh\u0103n nh\u01b0 ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef mi\u1ec1n B\u1eafc. Ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef \u0111\u1ee9ng tu\u1ed5i t\u1ea7ng l\u1edbp tr\u00ean \u1edf","th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1, th\u1ecb tr\u1ea5n m\u1eb7c \u00e1o d\u00e0i may s\u00e1tith\u00e2n.im\u00e0u s\u00e1ng nh\u01b0 m\u00e0u ho\u00e0ng y\u1ebfn, m\u00e0u xanh da tr\u1eddi..., c\u1ed5 \u0111\u1ee9ng, cao t\u1eeb 3 - 5cm\u2019 \u0110\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t, m\u00e0u t\u00edm Hu\u1ebf c\u1ee7a chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o d\u00e0i v\u1eabn \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef \u01b0a chu\u1ed9ng. T\u00f3cic\u1ee7a h\u1ecd v\u1eabn b\u00fai nh\u01b0 b\u00ecnh th\u01b0\u1eddng. Tuy nhi\u00ean, th\u1eddi gian n\u00e0y \u0111\u00e2 xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7ntm\u1ed9t ki\u1ec3u t\u00f3c kh\u00e1 c\u1ea7u k\u1ef3, b\u00fai t\u00f3c ca\u01a1 l\u00ean \u0111\u1ec9nh \u0111\u00e0u cu\u1ed9n l\u1ea1i th\u00e0nh h\u00ecnh'm\u1ecf ph\u01b0\u1ee3ng, nh\u1eefng d\u1ea3i t\u00f3c \u1edf b\u00ean v\u00e0 \u1edf g\u00e1y \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ch\u1ea3i, x\u1ebfp th\u00e0nh nhi\u1ec1u l\u1edbp nh\u01b0 c\u00e1nh ph\u01b0\u1ee3ng, g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 b\u00faiT\u00f3c ph\u01b0\u1ee3ng. Nhi\u1ec1u ng\u01b0\u1eddi v\u1ea5n t\u00f3c tr'\u00e2n,\u00edsau khi v\u1ea5n t\u00f3c sau g\u00e1y ch\u1ea3i m\u1ed9t l\u00f3p t\u00f3c v\u00f5ng xu\u1ed1ng h\u00ecnh l\u01b0\u1ee1i trai. N\u1eef sinh m\u1eb7c \u00e1o d\u00e0i tr\u1eafng, qu\u1ea7n tr\u1eafng, t\u00f3c c\u1eb7p tr\u1ec5 sau l\u01b0ng hay c\u1eaft ng\u1eafn ngang vai (t\u00f3c th\u1ec1)\/\u0111\u1ed9i n\u00f3n tr\u1eafng v\u00e0 m\u1ecfng, l\u1ed3ng gi\u1eefa ha\u1ec9 l\u00f3p l\u00e1 l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng h\u00e0ng ch\u1eef b\u1eb1ng gi\u1ea5y m\u00e0u, g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 n\u00f3n b\u00e0i th\u01a1. Quai n\u00f3n l\u00e0m'b\u1eb1ng d\u1ea3i l\u1ee5a m\u00e0u h\u1ed3ng,\u1ecaxanh da tr\u1eddi ho\u1eb7c ho\u00e0ng y\u1ebfn...( th\u1eaft;nh\u01b0 \u0111\u00f4i b\u01b0\u1edbmj\u1edf haii\u0111\u1ea7u trong v\u00e0nh n\u00f3n ho\u1eb7c bu\u1ed9cin\u00fat bu\u00f4ng hai \u0111\u1ea7U'm\u1ec1m m\u1ea1i r\u1ee7i xu\u1ed1ng\u00edC\u1ea1nh m\u00e1i t\u00f3e. Ph\u1ee5 n\u1eefiHu\u1ebf \u00edt d\u00f9ng dd trang s\u1ee9c, m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 v\u1eabn \u0111eo ki\u1ec1ng v\u00e0ng.irn XIH \u1ef5bri nB.di rri\u00fa i\u1edf mi\u1ec1n Nam, ch\u1ebf \u0111\u1ed9 ch\u00ednh tr\u1ecb kh\u00e1c v\u1edbi mi\u1ec1n B\u1eafc khi\u1ebfn trang ph\u1ee5c ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef c\u00f3inhi\u1ec1u \u0111i\u1ec3m kh\u00e1c^bi\u1ec7t, nh\u1ea5tll\u00e0 trang ph\u1ee5c c\u1ee7a ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef th\u00e0nh th\u1ecb. Ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef lao \u0111\u1ed9ng m\u1ecdi l\u1ee9a tu\u1ed5i \u1edf n\u00f4ng th\u00f4n th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u1ed9i: kh\u0103n r\u1eb1n, m\u1eb7c qu\u00e0n \u00e1o b\u00e0 ba m\u00e0u den,otr\u1eafng, xanh, >n\u00e2u; g\u1ee5,ihpa-.ib\u1eb1ng nhi\u1ec1u lo\u1ea1iLv\u1ea3i\u1ecb: ph\u1ed5 bmn l\u00e0 n i l\u00f4ng. \u00c1o d\u00e0\u1ecbv\u1eabn \u0111\u1ef1\u1ee3c s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng. Ng\u01b0\u1eddi nhi\u1ec1u t\u1ee5\u1ecdi th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u1ec3 t\u00f3c d\u00e0i, b\u00fai g\u1ecdn sau g\u00e1y. N\u1ef1\u1ecathanh ni\u00ean c\u1eb7p t\u00f3e ho\u1eb7c. x\u1ecd\u00e3 tpc\u201e \u1edf\u201eth\u1eadnh th\u1ecb,jph\u1ee5 n\u1eef nhi\u1ec1u tupi m\u1eb7c \u00e1o d\u00e0i niay^s\u00e1t th\u00e2nv,ya\u1eca d\u00e0i ^cju\u1ead \u0111\u1ea7u, g\u1ed1h m\u1eb7.P\u1ecb^q\u1ee5\u1ea7n tr\u1eafng ho\u1eb7c __ \u25a0A. ^ __ 1l T ~ *_ \u00cc 1\/ \u25a0 _' m","^ ,(V ; -\u25a0\u1ea0V^'\\\\-\u1eae \\\\(n \u00edf \u2018 if r \u00d5 \u2019J ,\u1ef4 mJ 'Jf!'M\u00cd>! ,V^ ) .^nnb '\u00faS '>\u25a0' .-tn\u00ed.rn\\\" \u1ef5urb) i\u00edV) 7bJ \u25a0 -: !^.l),l th\u1ecbnh h\u00e0nh nh\u1ea5t l\u00e0 ki\u1ec3u \u00e1o d\u00e0i m\u1ecfng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1eb7c ra ngo\u00e0i m\u1ed9t lo\u1ea1i \u00e1\u1ecd l\u00f3t, \u1ecd\u1ed5 kho\u00e9t r\u1ea5t s\u00e2u xu\u1ed1ng, kh\u00f4ng tay, may li\u1ec1n v\u1edbi qu\u1eabn sa tanh \u0111en. \u00edt n\u0103m saUj\u01b0fTir\u1ea7n\/L\u1ec7 Xu\u00e2n, v\u1ee3 Ng\u00f4 \u0110\u00ecnh Nh\u1ee5 tung r\u1ea1\u00edm\u1ed9tki\u1ec3u \u00e1o d\u00e0i kho\u00e9t c\u1ed5 ngang - b\u1ecb ph\u1ea3n \u0111\u1ed1i k\u1ecbch li\u1ec7t i nh\u01b0ng r\u1ed3i ng\u01b0\u1eddi Ita l\u1ea1i kho\u00e9t c\u1ed5 tr\u00f2n\/!c\u1ed5 vu\u00f4ng, c\u1ed5 nh\u1ecdn,i; tay \u00e1o ng\u1eafn h\u01a1n, t\u00e0 r\u1ed9ng, id\u00e0\u1ec9 ra> th\u00e2n \u00e1o b\u00f3 s\u00e1t, th\u1eafteo.iob r\u1ee5-\u1eca;\u2019: . {t.n ^1 : ,n .' 'i,\u0129\u1ecfd>\u1eca n\u00c9cp Nh\u1eefng n\u0103m sau 1968, trong phong tr\u00e0o \\\"mi n\u1ec9^^ch\u1ec9\u1ebfc \u00e1o d\u00e0i l\u1ea1i \u0111\u1ed5i d\u1ea1ng, t\u00e0 \u00e1oir\u1ea5t h\u1eb9p, v\u1ea1t ng\u1eafa \u0111\u1ebfn \u0111\u1ea7u g\u1ed1i, c\u1ed5 cao, vaiin\u1ed1i cb\u00e9o\u201e c\u00e1nh tayi\u00e1o ng\u1eafn, \u1ed1ng t\u00e1yrr\u1ed9ng. \u00c1o\u00edid\u00e0i may b\u1eb1ng c\u00e1c lo\u1ea1Lv\u1ea3i n\u1ed9i, v\u1ea3i ngo\u1ea1i v\u1edbi c\u00e1c m\u00e0u tr\u1eafng, m\u00e0u s\u00e1ng, m\u00e0u\u00ed b\u1ed3 q\u01b0\u00e2n\/im\u00e0u\u00edt\u00edm Hu\u1ebf,u Th\u00e2n v\u00e0Iv\u1ea1t \u00e1o c\u00f3 khi th\u00eau hoa, th\u00eau r\u1ed3ng, th\u00eau ph\u01b0\u1ee3ng.\u00edN\u1ebfu l\u00e0iV\u1ea3lhoa th\u00eciin \u0111\u1ee7 c\u00e1c c\u1ee1 hoa to, hpa nh\u1ecf nhi\u1ec1u m\u00e0u s\u1eb7e s\u1ee1 ho\u1eb7c h\u00ecnh k\u1ef7 h\u00e0. 1231","Phong tr\u00e0o m\u1eb7c \u00e1o v\u00e1y \u0111\u1ea7m c\u0169ng ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n. V\u00e1y t\u1eeb ki\u1ec3u d\u00e0i qu\u00e1 \u0111\u1ea7u g\u1ed1i, may ph\u1ed3ng v\u00e0 h\u01a1i khum ph\u1ea7n d\u01b0\u1edbi sau l\u1ea1i may th\u1eb3ng, x\u1ebb ch\u00fat \u00edt \u1edf gi\u1eefa th\u00e2n sau, may x\u1ebfp li ho\u1eb7c may b\u00f3, m\u1eb7c v\u1edbi \u00e1o ng\u1eafn tay ho\u1eb7c kh\u00f4ng tay, ngang l\u01b0ng c\u00f3 d\u1ea3i v\u1ea3i th\u1eaft ngo\u00e0i, ho\u1eb7c m\u1eb7c v\u1edbi \u00e1o th\u1eb3ng, c\u1ed5 vi\u1ec1n, t\u00fai vi\u1ec1n... m\u1ed9t m\u00e0u hay n\u1ed1i m\u00e0u. \u0110i\u1ebfm xuy\u1ebft v\u00e0o c\u00e1c b\u1ed9 trang ph\u1ee5c n\u00e0y l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng ren tr\u00ean ng\u1ef1c, b\u00ean vai, hay \u1edf th\u1eaft l\u01b0ng \u0111\u00ednh b\u00f4ng hoa b\u1eb1ng v\u1ea3i, \\\"n\u01a1\\\" to, ho\u1eb7c chi\u1ebfc k\u1eb9p trang s\u1ee9c \u0111\u00e1 qu\u00ed, d\u1ea3i v\u1ea3i m\u1ecfng, d\u00e0i... N\u1ebfu m\u1eb7c \u00e1o ng\u1eafn tay hay kh\u00f4ng tay, ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111eo g\u0103ng ng\u1eafn ho\u1eb7c d\u00e0i b\u1eb1ng ren hay xoa th\u00eau \u0111\u1eb9p. C\u00f3 ng\u01b0\u1eddi qu\u00e0ng kh\u0103n m\u1ecfng tr\u00ean vai, \u0111eo hoa tai. Sau n\u0103m 1968, chi\u1ebfc v\u00e1y mi ni ra \u0111\u1eddi, ng\u1eafn tr\u00ean \u0111\u1ea7u g\u1ed1i. \u00c1o th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 n\u00e0y, \u00e1o d\u1ec7t thun chui \u0111\u1ea7u v\u1edbi c\u00e1c ki\u1ec3u c\u1ed9c tay, kh\u00f4ng tay, c\u1ed5 b\u1ebb hay kh\u00f4ng c\u1ed5, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1eb7c ra ngo\u00e0i v\u00e1y. Lo\u1ea1i \u00e1o d\u00e0i tay c\u00e0i khuy \\\"m\u0103ng x\u00e9t\\\" c\u0169ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng. \u0110\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t, \u00e1o s\u01a1 mi may r\u1ea5t d\u00e0i, th\u00e2n tr\u01b0\u1edbc x\u1ebb l\u00e0m ba v\u1ea1t. Qu\u1ea7n th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 n\u00e0y l\u00e0 c\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i qu\u1ea7n thun b\u00f3 s\u00e1t, ho\u1eb7c r\u1ed9ng d\u00e0i. Qu\u1ea7n \u00c2u \u1ed1ng loe 30cm - 40cm xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n v\u1edbi nhi\u1ec1u lo\u1ea1i th\u1eaft l\u01b0ng da c\u00e1c m\u00e0u, to b\u1ea3n, c\u00f3 c\u1ea3 th\u1eaft l\u01b0ng b\u1eb1ng kim kh\u00ed. Nh\u1eefng n\u0103m v\u1ec1 sau n\u00e0y, \u1ed1ng loe ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n, \u1ed1ng r\u1ed9ng 50cm r\u1ed3i 60cm, hai b\u00ean \u1ed1ng qu\u1ea7n kh\u00f4ng nui, gau qu\u1ea7n kh\u00f4ng v\u00e9n, kh\u00f4ng m\u00e1y m\u00e0 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u1ed1t th\u00e0nh nh\u1eefng h\u00ecnh s\u00f3ng l\u01b0\u1ee3n. \u00c1o qu\u1ea7n ki\u1ec3u \\\"h\u00edp-pi\\\" m\u1ed9t th\u1eddi chi\u1ebfm l\u0129nh m\u1ed1t th\u1eddi trang S\u00e0i G\u00f2n. \u00c1o may b\u1eb1ng v\u1ea3i x\u00f4 m\u1ecfng, th\u00eau r\u1ed1i r\u1eafm, tay d\u00e0i ho\u1eb7c ng\u1eafn. C\u00f3 lo\u1ea1i \u00e1o may r\u1ea5t ng\u1eafn, \u0111\u1ec3 h\u1edf c\u1ea3 l\u01b0ng, o\u1ee5.ig ng\u01b0\u1eddi m\u1eb7c, \u1ed1ng tay \u00e1o d\u00e0i ho\u1eb7c ng\u1eafn nh\u01b0ng r\u1ed9ng, g\u1ea5u tay \u00e1o th\u00edt l\u1ea1i cho tay \u00e1o ph\u1ed3ng l\u00ean. Qu\u1ea7n b\u00f2 Zin b\u00f3 \u0111\u00f9i, b\u1ea1c ph\u1ebfch, c\u00f3 khi v\u00e1 mi\u1ebfng da \u1edf \u0111\u1ea7u g\u1ed1i, \u1edf m\u00f4ng... ri24","Gi\u00e0y d\u00e9p c\u0169ng thay \u0111\u1ed5i nhanh ch\u00f3ng. N\u0103m 1954 - 1959, ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef gi\u00e0u sang m\u1edbi c\u00f3 \u0111i\u1ec1u ki\u1ec7n \u0111i gi\u00e0y da \u0111\u1ebf m\u1ecfng, m\u0169i nh\u1ecdn, g\u00f3t cao. \u00edt n\u0103m sau, ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta \u0111i gi\u00e0y m\u0169i vu\u00f4ng, g\u00f3t vu\u00f4ng, th\u1ea5p. N\u1ebfu m\u1eb7c \u00e1o d\u00e0i th\u00ec \u0111i gu\u1ed1c g\u1ed7 g\u00f3t cao, nh\u1ecdn, s\u01a1n m\u00e0i hay s\u01a1n c\u00e1c m\u00e0u, v\u1ebd hoa l\u00e1. Ti\u1ebfp \u0111\u00f3 xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n nh\u1eefng \u0111\u00f4i gi\u00e0y r\u1ea5t cao, r\u1ea5t th\u00f4, nh\u1eefng \u0111\u00f4i gu\u1ed1c cao h\u01a1n lOcm. \u0110\u1ed3 trang s\u1ee9c ph\u1ed1 bi\u1ebfn g\u1ed3m v\u00f2ng tay b\u1eb1ng nh\u1ef1a nhi\u1ec1u m\u00e0u \u0111eo \u1edf c\u1ed5 tay hay c\u1ed5 ch\u00e2n. Nh\u1eabn ph\u1ea7n nhi\u1ec1u \u0111\u1ec1u g\u1eafn m\u1eb7t \u0111\u00e1 m\u00e0u c\u1ee1 l\u1edbn. Hoa tai v\u00f2ng to. Trang s\u1ee9c \u1edf c\u1ed5 l\u00e0 v\u00f2ng \u0111\u1ed3ng ho\u1eb7c chu\u1ed7i h\u1ea1t to. K\u00ednh \u0111eo m\u1eaft g\u1ecdng nh\u1ef1a, m\u1eaft k\u00ednh c\u00e0ng ng\u00e0y c\u00e0ng to v\u1edbi c\u00e1c h\u00ecnh tr\u00f2n, h\u00ecnh ch\u1eef nh\u1eadt, h\u00ecnh vu\u00f4ng m\u00e0u xanh, t\u00edm nh\u1ea1t, h\u1ed3ng n\u00e2u v.v... C\u00e1c m\u1ed1t trang \u0111i\u1ec3m ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n theo m\u1ed1t trang ph\u1ee5c. M\u00f4i son, m\u00e1 h\u1ed3ng, m\u1eaft k\u1ebb \u0111\u1eadm, mi t\u00f4 m\u00e0u xanh, n\u00e2u ho\u1eb7c t\u00edm, l\u00f4ng m\u00e0y nh\u1ed5, \u0111\u1ec3 l\u1ea1i m\u1ed9t h\u00e0ng ch\u1ec9 r\u1ed3i v\u1ebd cho \u0111\u1eadm. M\u00f3ng tay, m\u00f3ng ch\u00e2n \u0111\u00e1nh h\u1ed3ng, \u0111\u1ecf, n\u00e2u, t\u00edm, xanh, nh\u0169 b\u1ea1c... T \u1eeb ng\u00e0y th\u1ed1ng nh\u1ea5t \u0111\u1ea5t n\u01b0\u1edbc \u0111\u1ebfn nay, trang ph\u1ee5c c\u1ee7a ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef ba mi\u1ec1n kh\u00f4ng c\u00f2n s\u1ef1 kh\u00e1c bi\u1ec7t nhi\u1ec1u n\u1eefa. Ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef \u0111\u1ee9ng tu\u1ed5i \u1edf th\u00e0nh th\u1ecb ng\u00e0y th\u01b0\u1eddng m\u1eb7c \u00e1o c\u00e1nh, \u00e1o b\u00e0 ba, \u00e1o s\u01a1 mi, hai v\u1ea1t tr\u01b0\u1edbc hay \u1edf ng\u1ef1c th\u00eau hoa th\u01b0a ho\u1eb7c giua n\u1ed5i m\u1ed9t v\u00e0i h\u1ecda ti\u1ebft. G\u1ea5u \u00e1o, c\u1ed5 tay, mi\u1ec7ng t\u00fai, \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng vi\u1ec1n c\u1ed5 hai b\u00ean t\u00e0 \u00e1o \u0111\u1ec1u giua. C\u00f3 h\u00ecnh th\u1ee9c th\u00eau hoa \u1edf chung quanh g\u1ea5u \u00e1o ho\u1eb7c \u1edf b\u1ed1n g\u00f3c t\u00e0 \u00e1o tr\u01b0\u1edbc v\u00e0 sau, vai \u00e1o tr\u00f2n (c\u1eaft li\u1ec1n v\u1ea3i), ho\u1eb7c vai ch\u00e9o (raglan). Ng\u00e0y l\u1ec5, ng\u00e0y t\u1ebft h\u1ecd m\u1eb7c \u00e1o d\u00e0i m\u00e0u trang nh\u00e3. N\u1eef thanh ni\u00ean c\u00f3 nhi\u1ec1u ki\u1ec3u \u00e1o, \u00e1o b\u1ed9 \u0111\u00f2 m\u1eb7c \u1edf nh\u00e0, \u00e1o chui, \u00e1o m\u1edf, \u00e1o s\u01a1 mi chi\u1ebft ly, \u00e1o s\u01a1 mi H\u1ed3ng K\u00f4ng, vai \u00e1o 125)","b\u1ed3ng, vai li\u1ec1n, vai ch\u00e9o, \u00e1o'C\u00d3 ho\u1eb7c kh\u00f4ngiC\u00d3 c\u1ea7u,vai, \u00e1o c\u00f3 c\u1ea3 c\u1ea7u ng\u1ef1c ho\u1eb7c trang tr\u00ed \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng n\u1ed5i \u1edf ng\u1ef1c \u00e1o th\u00e0nh n\u1eeda h\u00ecnh tr\u00f2n, h\u00ecnh vu\u00f4ng, h\u00ecnh nh\u1ecdn, \u00e1o ng\u1eafn tayho\u1eb7c d\u00e0i tay, tay m\u0103ng x\u00e9t, tay l\u1eedng, tay chun, tay loe, tay th\u1ee5ng, tay chun xi-m\u1ed1c v.v... \u00c1o m\u1ecf- t\u00e0 ho\u1eb7c kh\u00f4ng m\u1edf t\u00e0, v\u1ea1t \u00e1o cong v\u00e0nh l\u01b0\u1ee3c, ho\u1eb7c l\u01b0\u1ee3n h\u00ecnh cung,' ho\u1eb7c tr\u00f2n...'C\u00f3 ki\u1ebfu \u00e1o hai ho\u1eb7c m\u1ed9t t\u00fai ng\u1ef1c n\u1ed5i, c\u00f3 ho\u1eb7c kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 n\u1eafp, mi\u1ec7ng t\u00fai th\u1eb3ng ho\u1eb7c ch\u00e9o, c\u00f3 ki\u1ec3u t\u00fai h\u00ecnh tr\u00e1i \u0111\u00e0o. Ve c\u1ed5 \u00e1o nhi\u1ec1u ki\u1ec3u phong ph\u00fa:fc\u1ed5 li\u1ec1n, c\u1ed5 th\u00eca, c\u1ed5 qu\u1ea3 tim, c\u1ed5 vu\u00f4ng, c\u1ed5 ch\u1eef \u01b0, c\u00f3 n\u1eb9p ho\u1eb7c l\u00e0m xi-m\u1ed1c, c\u1ed5 tr\u00f2n,'c\u1ed5 ch\u1eefi B, c\u1ed5 m\u1ed9t ve, c\u1ed5 hai ve tr\u00f2n, c\u1ed5 hai ve nh\u1ecdn, c\u1ed5 hailve li\u1ec1n, c\u1ed5 l\u00e1 sen tr\u00f2n, c\u1ed5 l\u00e1 sen nh\u1ecdn, l\u00e1' sen vu\u00f4ng, l\u00e1;sen n\u1eb1m, c\u1ed5 ve \u0111\u1ee9ng c\u00f3 ch\u00e2n, c\u1ed5 (\u0111\u1ee9ng (nh\u01b0 c\u1ed5 \u00e1O\u00edd\u00e0i), c\u1ed5 c\u00e1nh nh\u1ea1n, c\u1ed5 l\u1eadt nh\u1ecdn, c\u1ed5 l\u00ednh thu\u1ef7, c\u1ed5 Nh\u1eadt B\u1ea3n, c\u1ed5 san v.v... C\u00e1c ki\u1ec3u \u00e1o c\u1ea7u k\u1ef3 th\u1eddi gian n\u00e0y nh\u01b0 \u00e1o c\u00e1nh b\u01b0\u1edbm, \u00e1o c\u00e1nh d\u01a1i. \u0110\u1eb7c \u0111i\u1ec3m c\u1ee7a \u00e1o c\u00e1nh b\u01b0\u1edbm l\u00e0 c\u1ed5 \u00e1o tr\u00f2n, tay \u00e1o loe r\u1ed9ng, g\u1ea5u '\u00e1o l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng cong. Khi m\u1eb7c, giang th\u1eb3ng hai tay, to\u00e0n b\u1ed9ith\u00e2n \u00e1o nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t n\u1eeda h\u00ecnh, tr\u00f2n. \u0110\u1eb7c \u0111i\u1ec3m c\u1ee7a \u00e1o c\u00e1nh d\u01a1i l\u00e0 c\u1ed5 \u00e1o^h\u00ecnh nh\u1ecdn (ch\u1eef \u1ef4], tay \u00e1o loe r\u1ed9ng, g\u1ea5u,\u00e1o h\u00ecnh nh\u1ecdn (ch\u1eef V).| Khi m\u1eb7c, giang th\u1eb3ng hai tay th\u00ec tr\u00f4ng to\u00e0n, b\u1ed9 th\u00e2n, \u00e1o nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t h\u00ecnh\u1ecbtam gi\u00e1c c\u00e2n. Ki\u1ec3u \u00e1o n\u00e0y \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c may b\u1eb1ng ch\u1ea5t li\u1ec7u m\u1ec1m, t\u1ea1o nh\u1eefng n\u1ebfp r\u1ee7 l\u00e0m cho nh\u1eefng \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng cong'\u1edf c\u1eeda tay, g\u1ea5u \u00e1o m\u1ec1m m\u1ea1i, \u00e1o c\u00f3 c\u00e1c m\u00e0uis\u1eb7c s\u1ee1,\u1ecbc\u00e1c!h\u00ecnh trang tr\u00ed \u1edf c\u1ed5 \u00e1o, tay \u00e1o,\u1ec9g\u1ea5u \u00e1o. Nhi\u1ec1u ki\u1ec3u \u00e1o d\u1ec7t kim c\u1ed9c tay, \u00e1o. ph\u00f4ng \u0111\u01a1n gi\u1ea3n h\u1ee3piv\u1edbi tu\u1ed5i tr\u1ebb, t\u1ea1oid\u00e1ng kho\u1ebbim\u1ea1nh, \u00e1o s\u01a1 mi gh\u00e9p .nhi\u1ec1u m\u00e0u b\u1eb1ng v\u1ea3i hoa hay v\u1ea3i tr\u01a1n v\u00e0o c\u00e1c b\u1ed8! ph\u1eadn h\u1ee3p l\u00fd nh\u01b0 c\u1ed5 \u00e1o, tay, ng\u1ef1c, vai... l\u00e0m cho chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o th\u00eam h\u1ea5p d\u1eabn, Sau m\u1ed9t th\u1eddi gian d\u00e0i m\u1eb7c qu\u00e0n \u0111en \u1ed1ng h\u1eb9p, \u1ed1ng th\u1eb3ng, r\u1ed9ng,[h\u01a1i fl26","loe, g\u1ea7n \u0111\u00e2y \u0111a s\u1ed1 ph\u1ee5 n\u1eed m\u1eb7c qu\u1ea7n \u00c2u, qu\u1ea7n \u1ed1ng \u0111\u1ee9ng, \u1ed1ng v\u1ea9y, qu\u1ea7n b\u00f2, qu\u1ea7n l\u1eedng, v\u00e1y ng\u1eafn. \u00ed* C\u00e1c ki\u1ec3u \u00e1o m\u00f9a \u0111\u00f4ng ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n r\u1ea5t m\u1ea1nh, \u00e1o v\u00e9t; \u00e1o len d\u00e0i tay, ng\u1eafn tay, kh\u00f4ng tay; \u00e1o kho\u00e1c ki\u1ec3u m\u0103ng-t\u00f4 c\u00f3 \u0111ai th\u1eaft eo, \u00e1o chui \u0111\u1ea7u c\u1ed5 cao, g\u1ea5u chun ho\u1eb7c kh\u00f4ng g\u1ea5u... \u0111an ho\u1eb7c d\u1ec7t, nhi\u1ec1u h\u1ecda ti\u1ebft v\u00e0 m\u00e0u s\u1eafc, \u00e1o m\u0103ng t\u00f4, \u00e1o l\u00f4ng, \u00e1o vi-ni-l\u00f4ng, \u00e1o d\u1ec7t kim d\u00e0y ki\u1ec3u th\u1ec3 thao, \u00e1o li\u1ec1n m\u0169 th\u1eaft d\u00e2y l\u01b0ng nh\u01b0 \u00e1o tr\u01b0\u1ee3t tuy\u1ebft c\u1ee7a c\u00e1c n\u01b0\u1edbc ch\u00e2u \u00c2u, \u00e1o d\u1ea1, \u00e1o da v.v... \u1edf th\u00e0nh th\u1ecb mi\u1ec1n B\u1eafc, ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef v\u1ea5n kh\u0103n ch\u1ec9 c\u00f2n l\u1ea1i s\u1ed1 \u00edt. Ng\u01b0\u1eddi nhi\u1ec1u tu\u1ed5i th\u01b0\u1eddng b\u00fai t\u00f3c, u\u1ed5n ho\u1eb7c c\u1eaft t\u1ec9a ng\u1eafn, n\u1eef thanh ni\u00ean u\u1ed1n t\u00f3c c\u00e1c ki\u1ec3u hay c\u1eaft t\u1ec9a, u\u1ed1n \u0111i\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ec3 t\u00f3c \u1ed1p v\u00e0' o \u0111\u00e2u, ho\u1eb7c \u0111\u1ebd t\u00f3c ad'\u00e0-i, c\u0103^t ngang vai: vm.vn..i.i giun V\u00e0o m\u00f9a l\u1ea1nh, ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef n\u00f4ng th\u00f4n ch\u00edt kh\u0103n vu\u00f4ng v\u1ea3i \u0111en hay s\u1ee3i d\u1ec7t, kh\u0103n ni l\u00f4ng... N\u1eef thanh ni\u00ean \u0111\u1ed9i m\u0169 len \u0111an h\u00ecnh tr\u00f2n \u1ed1ng, c\u00f3 ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111\u1ed9i m\u0169 n\u1ed3i, m\u0169 l\u01b0\u1ee1i trai b\u1eb1ng nhung, ch\u00edt kh\u0103n vu\u00f4ng m\u1ecfng, qu\u1ea5n kh\u0103n d\u00e0i nhi\u1ec1u m\u00e0\u1ee7 ho\u1eb7c qu\u1ea5n kh\u0103n d\u00e0i b\u1eb1ng len m\u00f3c, hai \u0111\u1ea7u kh\u0103n c\u00f3 tua. Gi\u00e0y, gu\u1ed1c v\u1eabn c\u00f3 c\u00e1c ki\u1ec3u g\u00f3t nh\u1ecdn, g\u00f3t vu\u00f4ng, g\u00f3t b\u1eb1n'\u00a3 Ch\u1ea5t li\u1ec7u gi\u00e0y b\u1eb1ng da, gi\u1ea3 da, d\u00e9p, gu\u1ed1c nhi\u1ec1u m\u00e0u. Th\u1eddi gian sau n\u00e0y, c\u00f3 hi\u1ec7n t\u01b0\u1ee3ng giao ho\u00e0 trong trang ph\u1ee5c ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef n\u00f4ng th\u00f4n v\u00e0 th\u00e0nh th\u1ecb, \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t l\u00e0 trang ph\u1ee5c khi kh\u00f4ng lao \u0111\u1ed9ng. Trong ho\u00e0n c\u1ea3nh \u0111\u1ea5t n\u01b0\u1edbc th\u1ed1ng nh\u1ea5t, s\u1ef1 giao l\u01b0u thu\u1eadn ti\u1ec7n gi\u1eefa ba mi\u1ec1n \u0111\u00e3 t\u1ea1o \u0111i\u1ec1u ki\u1ec7n cho s\u1ef1 giao l\u01b0u trang ph\u1ee5c ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n. B\u1ed9 qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o b\u00e0 ba kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 ph\u1ed1 bi\u1ebfn \u1edf mi\u1ec1n Nam, m\u00e0u t\u00edm Hu\u1ebf \u0111\u00e3 th\u1ea5y th\u1ea5p tho\u00e1ng \u1edf H\u00e0 N\u1ed9i, chi\u1ebfc n\u00f3n l\u00e1 V\u0129nh Ph\u00fa, H\u00e0 T\u00e2y... \u0111\u00e3 \u0111i v\u00e0o Nam. \u0110\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t, chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o d\u00e0i truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng, d\u00f9 t\u00e0 d\u00e0i hay ng\u1eafn, r\u1ed9ng hay h\u1eb9p t\u00e0, m\u00e0u tr\u1eafng hay m\u00e0u v\u00e0ng, \u0111i\u1ec3m hoa 1271","to, nh\u1ecf hay in c\u00e1c h\u00ecnh ngang, d\u1ecdc nhi\u1ec1u m\u00e0u, b\u1eb1ng v\u1ea3i th\u01b0\u1eddng hay l\u1ee5a qu\u00ed... ng\u00e0y nay l\u00e0 chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o d\u00e0i c\u1ee7a c\u1ea3 ba mi\u1ec1n, b\u00ean c\u1ea1nh nh\u1eefng t\u1ea5m \u00e1o d\u00e0i n\u00e2u non \u0111\u1ed5i v\u1ea1t, bu\u00f4ng v\u1ea1t ho\u1eb7c th\u1eaft v\u1ea1t, b\u00ean c\u1ea1nh nh\u1eefng t\u00e0 \u00e1o m\u00e0u t\u00edm Hu\u1ebf, nh\u1eefng t\u1ea5m \u00e1o d\u00e0i c\u00e0i khuy c\u1ed5 truy\u1ec1n ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef \u1edf mi\u1ec1n Nam th\u01b0\u1eddng m\u1eb7c. C\u00f3 th\u1ec3 n\u00f3i, chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o d\u00e0i c\u1ee7a ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef Vi\u1ec7t Nam \u0111\u00e3 tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh m\u1ed9t bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng c\u1ee7a Vi\u1ec7t Nam \u0111\u1ed1i v\u1edbi th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi. \u0110\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t, g\u1ea7n \u0111\u00e2y, c\u00e1c cu\u1ed9c tr\u00ecnh di\u1ec5n th\u1eddi trang trong n\u01b0\u1edbc v\u00e0 qu\u1ed1c t\u1ebf ph\u00e1t tr\u00ean s\u00f3ng truy\u1ec1n h\u00ecnh khi\u1ebfn trang ph\u1ee5c c\u1ee7a ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef, \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef th\u00e0nh th\u1ecb ng\u00e0y c\u00e0ng n\u1ed5i b\u1eadt v\u1ec1 t\u00ednh th\u1eddi trang b\u00ean c\u1ea1nh t\u00ednh ti\u1ec7n d\u1ee5ng. o Trang ph\u1ee5c nam gi\u1edbi ng\u01b0\u1eddi Kinh Trang ph\u1ee5c \u0111\u00e0n \u00f4ng c\u00e1c v\u00f9ng mi\u1ec1n t\u01b0\u01a1ng t\u1ef1 nh\u01b0 nhau. \u0110\u00e0n \u00f4ng thu\u1ed9c t\u1ea7ng l\u1edbp lao \u0111\u1ed9ng mi\u1ec1n B\u1eafc, mi\u1ec1n Trung th\u01b0\u1eddng m\u1eb7c qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o b\u1eb1ng v\u1ea3i \u0110\u1ed3ng L\u1ea7m nhu\u1ed9m n\u00e2u. \u00c1o c\u00e1nh ng\u1eafn, b\u1ed1n th\u00e2n c\u00e0i c\u00fac gi\u1eefa hay n\u0103m th\u00e2n c\u00e0i c\u00fac b\u00ean, c\u1ed5 tr\u00f2n \u0111\u1ee9ng, vu\u00f4ng g\u00f3c. Quanh c\u1ed1 c\u00f3 l\u00f3t [\u1edf ph\u00eda trong \u00e1o) m\u1ed9t mi\u1ebfng v\u1ea3i tr\u00f9m m\u1ed9t ph\u1ea7n vai, l\u01b0ng, ng\u1ef1c g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 c\u1ed5 l\u00e1 sen, c\u00f3 t\u00e1c d\u1ee5ng l\u00e0m c\u1ee9ng vai \u00e1o v\u00e0 l\u00e2u r\u00e1ch do vai th\u01b0\u1eddng b\u1ecb c\u1ecd x\u00e1t nhi\u1ec1u [do g\u00e1nh, v\u00e1c). G\u1ea5u \u00e1o, g\u1ea5u tay vi\u1ec1n to h\u01a1n \u00e1o ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef. Hai v\u1ea1t tr\u01b0\u1edbc c\u00f3 hai t\u00fai. \u0110\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t, \u1edf mi\u1ec1n Trung c\u00f3 lo\u1ea1i \u00e1o l\u00e1c \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111an b\u1eb1ng s\u1ee3i c\u1ecf l\u00e1c ph\u01a1i kh\u00f4, m\u1eb7c khi gi\u00e1 r\u00e9t. \u00c1o l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t h\u00ecnh ch\u1eef nh\u1eadt g\u1eadp \u0111\u00f4i, gi\u1eefa kho\u00e9t mi\u1ebfng tr\u00f2n l\u00e0m c\u1ed5 \u00e1o. Khi m\u1eb7c, chui \u0111\u1ea7u qua c\u1ed5 \u00e1o, bu\u1ed9c m\u1ed9t s\u1ee3i d\u00e2y ngang b\u1ee5ng, gi\u1eef cho hai v\u1ea1t \u00e1o tr\u01b0\u1edbc v\u00e0 sau s\u00e1t v\u00e0o ng\u01b0\u1eddi. Qu\u1ea7n nam gi\u1edbi l\u00e0 lo\u1ea1i qu\u1ea7n l\u00e1 t\u1ecda - may r\u1ed9ng, \u0111\u0169ng th\u1ea5p, \u1ed1ng th\u1eb3ng. Khi m\u1eb7c, th\u1eaft d\u00e2y l\u01b0ng ra ngo\u00e0i c\u1ea1p r\u1ed3i k\u00e9o c\u1ea1p l\u00ean ho\u1eb7c xo\u1eafn c\u1ea1p l\u00e0m cho \u1ed1ng qu\u1ea7n cao l\u00ean. L\u00fac \u0129128","lao \u0111\u1ed9ng c\u00f3 th\u00ea v\u00e9n \u1ed1ng qu\u1ea7n l\u00ean qu\u00e1 b\u1eafp ch\u00e2n, xo\u1eafn g\u1ecdn l\u1ea1i [g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 qu\u1ea7n x\u1eafn m\u00f3ng l\u1ee3n]. C\u0169ng c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 m\u1eb7c qu\u1ea7n \u0111\u00f9i [qu\u1ea7n c\u1ee5t) cho thu\u1eadn ti\u1ec7n. \u2022 T\u00f3c \u0111\u00e0n \u00f4ng \u0111\u1ec3 d\u00e0i nh\u01b0 t\u00f3c \u0111\u00e0n b\u00e0, b\u00fai cao l\u00ean ph\u00eda sau \u0111\u1ec9nh \u0111\u1ea7u. Ng\u01b0\u1eddi lao \u0111\u1ed9ng ch\u00edt kh\u0103n \u0111\u1ea7u r\u00ecu. Kh\u0103n l\u00e0 mi\u1ebfng v\u1ea3i vu\u00f4ng, m\u1ed7i chi\u1ec1u 40cm - 50cm. G\u1eadp ch\u00e9o kh\u0103n l\u1ea1i th\u00e0nh h\u00ecnh tam gi\u00e1c, g\u00f3c gi\u1eefa \u0111\u1ec3 v\u1ec1 ph\u00eda sau g\u00e1y, hai g\u00f3c c\u1ea1nh bu\u1ed9c v\u1edbi nhau ph\u00eda tr\u00ean tr\u00e1n, c\u00f3 t\u00e1c d\u1ee5ng gi\u1eef b\u00fai t\u00f3c ph\u00eda sau v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ec3 t\u00f3c ph\u00eda tr\u01b0\u1edbc kh\u00f4ng xo\u00e3 xu\u1ed1ng m\u1eb7t. Nhi\u1ec1u ng\u01b0\u1eddi ch\u1ec9 qu\u1ea5n tr\u00ean \u0111\u1ea7u m\u1ed9t v\u00f2ng kh\u0103n s\u01a1 s\u00e0i b\u1eb1ng d\u1ea3i v\u1ea3i d\u00e0i cu\u1ed9n xo\u1eafn l\u1ea1i. \u0110\u00e0n \u00f4ng lao \u0111\u1ed9ng th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111i ch\u00e2n \u0111\u1ea5t. Khi c\u00f3 vi\u1ec7c \u0111i \u0111\u00e2u ho\u1eb7c bu\u1ed5i t\u1ed1i r\u1eeda ch\u00e2n m\u1edbi x\u1ecf \u0111\u00f4i gu\u1ed1c g\u1ed7 m\u1ed9t quai ngang hay hai quai ch\u00e9o. Ng\u01b0\u1eddi gia \u0111i gu\u1ed1c m\u0169i cong. \u1edf mi\u1ec1n Nam, qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o nam gi\u1edbi ph\u1ed1 bi\u1ebfn may b\u1eb1ng v\u1ea3i \u0111en r\u1ed9ng r\u00e3i theo ki\u1ec3u b\u00e0 ba. \u00c1o b\u1ed1n th\u00e2n, c\u1ed5 \u0111\u1ee9ng, c\u00e0i khuy gi\u1eefa, \u1ed1ng tay r\u1ed9ng, qu\u1ea7n m\u1eb7c nh\u01b0 qu\u1ea7n l\u00e1 t\u1ecda mi\u1ec1n B\u1eafc. \u1edf th\u00e0nh th\u1ecb, c\u00f3 th\u1eddi gian nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi k\u00e9o xe tay, trong m\u1eb7c \u00e1o c\u00e1nh tr\u1eafng ch\u00e1o l\u00f2ng, ngo\u00e0i m\u1eb7c \u00e1o c\u00e1nh b\u1ed1n th\u00e2n vi\u1ec1n n\u1eb9p m\u00e0u, r\u1ed9ng b\u1ea3n \u1edf c\u1ed5 \u00e1o, c\u1ed5 tay \u00e1o, g\u1ea5u \u00e1o, c\u1ea1nh t\u00e0 \u00e1o... th\u01b0\u1eddng kh\u00f4ng c\u00e0i c\u00fac. Ng\u01b0\u1eddi ngh\u00e8o m\u1eb7c \u00e1o b\u1eb1ng v\u1ea3i gai c\u1ed9c tay, h\u1edf n\u00e1ch, th\u00e2n \u00e1o ng\u1eafn h\u1edf c\u1ea3 l\u01b0ng... M\u00f9a r\u00e9t, \u0111a s\u1ed1 ph\u1ea3i qu\u00e0ng kh\u1ed1 t\u1ea3i. Nh\u00ecn chung, khi c\u00f3 vi\u1ec7c t\u1edbi nh\u1eefng ch\u1ed7 quan tr\u1ecdng [ch\u1ed1n \u0111\u00ecnh trung), nam gi\u1edbi m\u1edbi m\u1eb7c \u00e1o d\u00e0i the \u0111en, qu\u1ea7n \u1ed1ng s\u1edb [\u1ed1ng th\u1eb3ng, \u0111\u0169ng cao). Ri\u00eang c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 nho v\u00e0 nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi c\u00f3 \u0111\u1ecba v\u1ecb trong x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i ng\u00e0y th\u01b0\u1eddng c\u0169ng m\u1eb7c \u00e1o d\u00e0i, \u0111\u1ed9i kh\u0103n l\u01b0\u1ee3t. 1291","Trang ph\u1ee5c ng\u00e0y l\u1ec5, ng\u00e0y t\u1ebft c\u1ee7a \u0111\u00e0n \u00f4ng r\u1ea5t \u0111\u01a1n gi\u1ea3n. \u0110\u00e0n \u00f4ng mi\u1ec1n B\u1eafc, mi\u1ec1n Trung th\u01b0\u1eddng m\u1eb7c qu\u1ea7n l\u00e1 to\u1ea1, \u00e1o n\u0103m th\u00e2n ng\u1eafn b\u1eb1ng v\u1ea3i m\u00e0u tr\u1eafng, ng\u01b0\u1eddi gi\u00e0u m\u1eb7c \u00e1o l\u1ee5a t\u01a1 t\u1eb1m m\u00e0u v\u00e0ng ho\u1eb7c \u0111\u0169i m\u00e0u ng\u00e0, th\u1eaft l\u01b0ng nhi\u1ec5u t\u00edm tam giang, h\u1ed3ng \u0111i\u1ec1u, hay xanh l\u1ee5c... \u1edf trong \u00e1o, d\u1ea3i th\u1eaft l\u01b0ng bu\u00f4ng r\u1ee7 m\u1ed9t \u0111o\u1ea1n ng\u1eafn ph\u00eda tr\u01b0\u1edbc. N\u1ebfu m\u1eb7c \u00e1o d\u00e0i the th\u00e2m, h\u1ecd th\u01b0\u1eddng m\u1eb7c th\u00eam \u00e1o d\u00e0i tr\u1eafng b\u00ean trong, \u0111\u00f4i ri30","khi h\u1ecd m\u1eb7c \u00e1o the m\u00e0u n\u00e2u hay m\u00e0u xanh lam, c\u1ed1 \u00e1o cao, \u0111\u1ee9ng, vu\u00f4ng g\u00f3c. \u00c1o the may n\u0103m t\u00e0, khi c\u00e0i c\u00fac, v\u1ea1t tr\u01b0\u1edbc \u0111\u00e8 l\u00ean v\u1ea1t nh\u1ecf b\u00ean trong t\u1ea1o n\u00ean m\u00e0u s\u1eabm l\u00e0m th\u00e0nh hai m\u1ea3ng \u0111\u1eadm nh\u1ea1t kh\u00e1c nhau. \u0110i h\u1ed9i, h\u1ecd bu\u1ed9c th\u1eaft l\u01b0ng m\u00e0u ra ngo\u00e0i \u00e1o the, b\u1ecf b\u00ean c\u1ea1nh s\u01b0\u1eddn. Nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi c\u00f3 ch\u1ee9c t\u01b0\u1edbc ho\u1eb7c gi\u00e0u c\u00f3 trong x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i th\u01b0\u1eddng m\u1eb7c \u00e1o d\u00e0i may b\u1eb1ng g\u1ea5m (c\u00f3 hoa v\u0103n ch\u1eef th\u1ecd), v\u00f3c, \u0111o\u1ea1n, sa tanh, sa tr\u01a1n. T\u1eeb 1925 tr\u1edf v\u1ec1 sau, \u0111\u00e0n \u00f4ng th\u00e0nh th\u1ecb mi\u1ec1n B\u1eafc v\u00e0o m\u00f9a n\u1eafng ch\u1ec9 m\u1eb7c m\u1ed9t \u00e1o d\u00e0i tr\u1eafng, m\u00f9a r\u00e9t m\u1eb7c lo\u1ea1i \u00e1o d\u00e0i b\u1eb1ng d\u1ea1 kho\u00e1c ngo\u00e0i, theo ki\u1ec3u ph\u01b0\u01a1ng T\u00e2y g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 ba- \u0111\u01a1-xuy (pardessus), qu\u1ea5n kh\u0103n phu-la (loulard) quanh c\u1ed5. Nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi c\u00f3 ch\u1ee9c s\u1eafc \u1edf n\u00f4ng th\u00f4n nh\u01b0 ch\u00e1nh t\u1ed5ng, l\u00fd tr\u01b0\u1edfng... th\u01b0\u1eddng m\u1eb7c \u00e1o the \u0111en d\u00e0i, kho\u00e1c th\u00eam \u00e1o v\u00e9t- t\u00f4ng (veston) ra ngo\u00e0i. \u0110\u00e0n \u00f4ng th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111i v\u0103n h\u00e0i l\u00e0 lo\u1ea1i gi\u00e0y \u0111\u1ebf cao b\u1eb1ng gi\u1ea5y b\u1ed5i c\u1ee9ng, m\u0169i gi\u00e0y b\u1eb1ng v\u1ea3i nhung hay b\u1eb1ng v\u00f3c m\u00e0u \u0111en ho\u1eb7c m\u00e0u lam, khum k\u00edn c\u00e1c ng\u00f3n ch\u00e2n v\u00e0 hai c\u1ea1nh b\u00e0n ch\u00e2n, th\u00eau h\u00ecnh r\u1ed3ng ho\u1eb7c h\u00ecnh hoa l\u00e1 nhi\u1ec1u m\u00e0u. Ngo\u00e0i ra, c\u00f2n c\u00f3 lo\u1ea1i h\u00e0i b\u1eb1ng da d\u00ea n\u00fai, b\u1ecbt g\u00f3t, gi\u00e0y h\u1ea1 (gi\u00e0y b\u1eb1ng da, c\u00f3 m\u0169i che ph\u1ea7n tr\u00ean c\u00e1c ng\u00f3n ch\u00e2n), \u1ee7ng (gi\u00e0y c\u00f3 c\u1ed5 cao)... nh\u1eefng th\u1ee9 n\u00e0y ch\u1ee7 y\u1ebfu l\u00e0 c\u1ee7a t\u1ea7ng l\u1edbp tr\u00ean. \u0110\u00e0n \u00f4ng mi\u1ec1n Nam m\u1eb7c qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o b\u00e0 ba tr\u1eafng. Ng\u01b0\u1eddi nhi\u1ec1u tu\u1ed5i c\u0169ng m\u1eb7c \u00e1o d\u00e0i tr\u1eafng b\u00ean trong, \u00e1o d\u00e0i \u0111en b\u00ean ngo\u00e0i, c\u1ed5 \u0111\u1ee9ng, ch\u00e2n \u0111i gi\u00e0y da l\u00e1ng (m\u0169i gi\u00e0y b\u1eb1ng da s\u01a1n \u0111en b\u00f3ng), gi\u00e0y gu\u1ed1c (\u0111\u1ebf b\u1eb1ng g\u1ed7, m\u0169i tr\u00ean b\u1eb1ng da), gi\u00e0y c\u00f3c (tr\u00f4ng gi\u1ed1ng \u0111\u1ea7u con c\u00f3c) ho\u1eb7c \u0111i gu\u1ed1c g\u1ed7 m\u1ed9t quai v.v... Nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi c\u00f2n \u0111\u1ec3 t\u00f3c d\u00e0i th\u01b0\u1eddng qu\u1ea5n kh\u0103n l\u01b0\u1ee3t \u0111en. G\u1ecdi l\u00e0 kh\u0103n l\u01b0\u1ee3t v\u00ec ch\u1ea5t li\u1ec7u l\u00e0 lo\u1ea1i v\u1ea3i l\u01b0\u1ee3t (sau thay b\u1eb1ng lo\u1ea1i v\u1ea3i m\u1ec1m kh\u00e1c nh\u01b0 nhi\u1ec5u, l\u00e0 m\u00e0u t\u00edm tam giang), 1311","d\u00e0i tr\u00ean 2m, r\u1ed9ng 30cm, g\u1eadp \u0111\u00f4i (c\u00f3 khi g\u1eadp ba] theo chi\u1ec1u d\u00e0i, qu\u1ea5n nhi\u1ec1u v\u00f2ng tr\u00ean \u0111\u1ea7u. Khi ch\u00edt kh\u0103n, hai n\u1ebfp kh\u0103n \u0111\u1ea7u trong c\u00f9ng x\u1ebfp ch\u00e9o l\u00ean nhau, ch\u1eef nh\u00e2n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u00e1ch c\u00e1ch xa nh\u1eefng n\u1ebfp v\u00f2ng qu\u1ea9n l\u00ean cao, c\u0169ng c\u00f3 khi h\u1ecd qu\u1ea5n kh\u0103n th\u00e0nh nhi\u1ec1u v\u00f2ng, qu\u1ea5n b\u00e8 ra v\u00e0 cao l\u00ean l\u00e0m th\u00e0nh m\u1ed9t t\u1ea7ng kh\u00e1c. N\u00f3n c\u1ee7a \u0111\u00e0n \u00f4ng \u0111a ph\u1ea7n c\u00f3 h\u00ecnh ch\u00f3p, c\u00f3 ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111\u1ed9i n\u00f3n ch\u1ecfm b\u1eb1ng, khum c\u1ea1nh h\u00ecnh qu\u1ea3 b\u1ee9a c\u1eaft ngang g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 n\u00f3n qu\u1ea3 b\u1ee9a. N\u00f3n mi\u1ec1n B\u1eafc, mi\u1ec1n Trung l\u00e0m b\u1eb1ng l\u00e1 g\u1ed3i, mi\u1ec1n Nam l\u00e0m b\u1eb1ng l\u00e1 d\u1eeba... Quai n\u00f3n \u0111\u01a1n gi\u1ea3n l\u00e0m b\u1eb1ng v\u1ea3i s\u1ee3i d\u00e2y m\u00e2y, d\u00e2y v\u1ea3i, n\u1ebfu sang tr\u1ecdng l\u00e0m b\u1eb1ng l\u1ee5a b\u1ea1ch, thao \u0111en... Nh\u00ecn chung, trang ph\u1ee5c c\u1ee7a ng\u01b0\u1eddi d\u00e2n trong sinh ho\u1ea1t v\u00e0 lao \u0111\u1ed9ng h\u00e0ng ng\u00e0y c\u1ea3 m\u1ed9t giai \u0111o\u1ea1n d\u00e0i h\u1ea7u nh\u01b0 \u0111\u1ecbnh h\u00ecnh, \u00edt thay \u0111\u1ed5i. B\u01b0\u1edbc v\u00e0o th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 thu\u1ed9c Ph\u00e1p, trang ph\u1ee5c \u0111\u00e3 c\u00f3 s\u1ef1 c\u00e1ch t\u00e2n, bi\u1ebfn \u0111\u1ed5i. S\u1ef1 ti\u1ebfp x\u00fac v\u0103n ho\u00e1 gi\u1eefa ph\u01b0\u01a1ng \u0110\u00f4ng v\u00e0 ph\u01b0\u01a1ng T\u00e2y \u0111\u00e3 t\u00e1c \u0111\u1ed9ng nhi\u1ec1u m\u1eb7t t\u1edbi s\u1ef1 ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n v\u0103n ho\u00e1 n\u01b0\u1edbc ta, trong \u0111\u00f3 trang ph\u1ee5c l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t trong nh\u1eefng bi\u1ec3u hi\u1ec7n r\u1ea5t r\u00f5 n\u00e9t. Trang ph\u1ee5c c\u1ee7a ng\u01b0\u1eddi Kinh th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 n\u00e0y ti\u1ebfp nh\u1eadn nh\u1eefng nh\u00e2n t\u1ed1 m\u1edbi c\u1ee7a ph\u01b0\u01a1ng T\u00e2y v\u1ec1 c\u00e1ch \u0103n m\u1eb7c, nh\u1ea5t l\u00e0 \u1edf th\u00e0nh th\u1ecb - n\u01a1i giao l\u01b0u nhi\u1ec1u, c\u00f2n \u1edf n\u00f4ng th\u00f4n, trang ph\u1ee5c trong lao \u0111\u1ed9ng v\u1ec1 c\u01a1 b\u1ea3n kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 g\u00ec thay \u0111\u1ed5i. \u1edf th\u00e0nh th\u1ecb \u0111\u00e3 c\u00f3 nh\u1eefng thay \u0111\u1ed5i c\u0103n b\u1ea3n trong c\u00e1ch \u0103n m\u1eb7c, trang ph\u1ee5c c\u1ee7a nam gi\u1edbi ti\u1ebfp thu ki\u1ec3u m\u1eb7c ch\u00e2u \u00c2u: \u00e1o s\u01a1 mi, qu\u1ea7n \u00e2u, \u00e1o v\u00e9t t\u00f4ng, c\u00e0 v\u1ea1t, m\u0169 ph\u1edbt, gi\u00e0y da b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n. T\u1eeb n\u0103m 1910, nhi\u1ec1u \u0111\u00e0n \u00f4ng (nh\u1ea5t l\u00e0 thanh ni\u00ean th\u00e0nh th\u1ecb) \u0111\u00e3 c\u1eaft t\u00f3c ng\u1eafn nh\u01b0ng v\u1eabn qu\u1ea5n kh\u0103n l\u01b0\u1ee3t. Ra \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng ri32","h\u1ecd d\u00f9ng \u00f4 m\u00e0u tr\u1eafng hay \u0111en, th\u01b0\u1eddng g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 \u00f4 c\u00e1nh d\u01a1i [v\u00ec khi gi\u01b0\u01a1ng \u00f4 l\u00ean, h\u00ecnh b\u1ed9 g\u1ecdng v\u00e0 v\u1ea3i \u00f4 gi\u1ed1ng c\u00e1nh con d\u01a1i]. Nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1930, phong tr\u00e0o c\u1eaft t\u00f3c ng\u1eafn, r\u1ebd ng\u00f4i l\u1ec7ch ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n r\u1ea7m r\u1ed9. Nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111\u1ee9ng tu\u1ed1i m\u1eb7c \u00e1o d\u00e0i, \u0111\u1ed9i kh\u0103n x\u1ebfp, h\u00ecnh th\u1ee9c nh\u01b0 kh\u0103n qu\u1ea5n, nh\u01b0ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u00e0m s\u1eb5n, khi c\u1ea7n ch\u1ec9 ch\u1ee5p l\u00ean \u0111\u1ea7u nh\u01b0 \u0111\u1ed9i m\u0169, r\u1ea5t ti\u1ec7n l\u1ee3i, kh\u00f4ng m\u1ea5t th\u00ec gi\u1edd qu\u1ea5n nhi\u1ec1u v\u00f2ng nh\u01b0 tr\u01b0\u1edbc. Kh\u0103n x\u1ebfp \u1edf mi\u1ec1n B\u1eafc v\u1eabn c\u00f2n h\u00ecnh ch\u1eef nh\u00e2n \u1edf tr\u01b0\u1edbc tr\u00e1n, mi\u1ec1n Trung l\u00e0 h\u00ecnh l\u01b0\u1ee1i trai. Th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 n\u00e0y, c\u00f3 m\u1ed9t t\u1ea7ng l\u1edbp m\u1edbi xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n - \u0111\u00f3 l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111i l\u00e0m (vi\u00ean ch\u1ee9c). Ngo\u00e0i trang ph\u1ee5c d\u00e2n t\u1ed9c nh\u01b0 \u00e1o the kh\u0103n x\u1ebfp, h\u1ecd c\u00f2n m\u1eb7c \u00c2u ph\u1ee5c g\u1ed3m qu\u1ea7n t\u00e2y, \u00e1o s\u01a1 mi, \u00e1o gi-l\u00ea, \u00e1o v\u00e9t-t\u00f4ng, c\u00e0 v\u1ea1t. Ngo\u00e0i com-l\u00ea, h\u1ecd c\u00f2n m\u1eb7c c\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i \u00e1o kh\u00e1c nh\u01b0 va-r\u01a1i, blu-d\u00f4ng..., ch\u00e2n \u0111i gi\u00e0y T\u00e2y b\u1eb1ng da \u0111en, \u0111\u1ed9i m\u0169 ph\u1edbt, m\u0169 c\u00e1t k\u00e9t b\u1eb1ng d\u1ea1, b\u1eb1ng v\u1ea3i... M\u00f9a h\u00e8, t\u1ea7ng l\u1edbp vi\u00ean ch\u1ee9c \u0111i gi\u00e0y hai m\u00e0u \\\"\u0111\u01a1 cu-l\u01a1\\\" (deux couleurs), \u0111\u1ed9i m\u0169 c\u00e1t (casque) tr\u1eafng... M\u0169 c\u00e1t l\u00e0m b\u1eb1ng li-e hay b\u1eb1ng d\u00fat, ngo\u00e0i b\u1ecdc v\u1ea3i r\u1ed3i qu\u00e9t s\u01a1n tr\u1eafng. M\u0169 c\u00e1t tr\u1eafng c\u00f3 lo\u1ea1i r\u1ed9ng v\u00e0nh, c\u00f3 lo\u1ea1i h\u1eb9p v\u00e0nh, c\u00f3 lo\u1ea1i tr\u00f2n, c\u00f3 lo\u1ea1i h\u01a1i h\u00ecnh b\u1ea7u d\u1ee5c, ch\u1ecfm b\u1eb1ng. Sau c\u00e1ch m\u1ea1ng th\u00e1ng T\u00e1m 1945, trang ph\u1ee5c \u0111\u00e0n \u00f4ng \u1edf th\u00e0nh th\u1ecb \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u00c2u ho\u00e1 kh\u00e1 nhanh, \u1edf n\u00f4ng th\u00f4n c\u00f2n ph\u1ea3i tr\u1ea3i qua m\u1ed9t qu\u00e1 tr\u00ecnh l\u00e2u h\u01a1n m\u1edbi c\u00f3 s\u1ef1 thay \u0111\u1ed5i c\u0103n b\u1ea3n. Sau kh\u00e1ng chi\u1ebfn ch\u1ed1ng Ph\u00e1p, m\u1ed1i quan h\u1ec7 th\u00e0nh th\u1ecb, n\u00f4ng th\u00f4n tr\u1edf n\u00ean ho\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed3ng. Nhi\u1ec1u thanh ni\u00ean n\u00f4ng th\u00f4n b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u m\u1eb7c \u00e1o s\u01a1 mi, qu\u1ea7n \u00c2u, trong khi \u0111\u00f3 nhi\u1ec1u c\u00e1n b\u1ed9 xu\u1ea5t th\u00e2n \u1edf th\u00e0nh th\u1ecb c\u0169 \u0111\u00e3 th\u01b0\u1eddng xuy\u00ean m\u1eb7c qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o n\u00e2u \u0111\u1ec3 d\u1ec5 th\u00e2m nh\u1eadp v\u00e0o qu\u1ea7n ch\u00fang n\u00f4ng th\u00f4n. \u1edf mi\u1ec1n B\u1eafc, t\u1eeb n\u0103m 1954, \u0111\u00e0n \u00f4ng hay m\u1eb7c \u00e1o v\u1ea3i ka ki 1331","\u0111\u1ea1i c\u00e1n, b\u1ed1n t\u00fai. M\u00f9a h\u00e8 h\u1ecd m\u1eb7c s\u01a1 mi c\u1ed9c tay, may th\u1eb3ng, kh\u00f4ng b\u00f3, c\u1ed7 hai ve. Khi m\u1eb7c th\u01b0\u1eddng b\u1ecf ra ngo\u00e0i qu\u1ea7n cho \u0111\u1ee1 n\u00f3ng. C\u00f3 th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 \u1ed1ng tay v\u00e0 th\u00e2n \u00e1o r\u1ed9ng, sau \u0111\u00f3 \u1ed1ng tay v\u00e0 th\u00e2n \u00e1o \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c may h\u1eb9p l\u1ea1i, tr\u00f4ng g\u1ecdn v\u00e0 kh\u1ecfe. \u00c1o s\u01a1 mi d\u00e0i tay, m\u00f9a h\u00e8 khi m\u1eb7c h\u1ecd hay x\u1eafn l\u00ean tr\u00ean hay d\u01b0\u1edbi khu\u1ef7u tay. \u0110\u00e0n \u00f4ng cao tu\u00f4i v\u1eabn m\u1eb7c b\u1ed9 qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o c\u00e1nh ta m\u00e0u n\u00e2u, m\u00e0u xanh hay tr\u1eafng ho\u1eb7c ki\u1ec3u \u00e1o s\u01a1 mi ba t\u00fai, c\u1ed1 hai ve. M\u00f9a r\u00e9t, h\u1ecd m\u1eb7c \u00e1o ka ki c\u00f3 hai t\u00fai ch\u00e9o, m\u00e0u t\u00edm than, v\u1ecf \u00e1o tr\u00f9m ra ngo\u00e0i m\u1ed9t n\u1ec1n b\u00f4ng tr\u1ea7n \u00f4 vu\u00f4ng, ph\u00f9 h\u1ee3p v\u1edbi cu\u1ed9c s\u1ed1ng lao \u0111\u1ed9ng th\u1eddi chi\u1ebfn. Khi \u00e1o b\u1ea9n, ch\u1ec9 vi\u1ec7c th\u00e1o v\u1ecf ngo\u00e0i ra gi\u1eb7t. \u0110\u00e0n \u00f4ng th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111i d\u00e9p b\u1eb1ng l\u1ed1p \u00f4 t\u00f4 [d\u00e9p cao su \u0111en) v\u00ec ti\u1ec7n l\u1ee3i v\u00e0 r\u1ebb ti\u00ean. \u0110\u00e0n \u00f4ng nhi\u1ec1u tu\u1ed5i v\u00f9ng t\u1ea1m chi\u1ebfm m\u1eb7c \u00e1o d\u00e0i the, \u00e1o sa tanh \u0111en hay m\u00e0u lam, \u00e1o g\u1ea5m hoa hay ch\u1eef th\u1ecd v.v...; qu\u1ea7n tr\u1eafng \u1ed1ng s\u1edb; \u0111\u1ea7u \u0111\u1ed9i kh\u0103n x\u1ebfp, \u0111i gi\u00e0y da l\u00e1ng hay gi\u00e0y da \u0111en, m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 m\u1eb7c \u00c3u ph\u1ee5c. \u0110\u00e0n \u00f4ng trung ni\u00ean, thanh ni\u00ean m\u1eb7c s\u01a1 mi, \u00e1o v\u00e9t t\u00f4ng, th\u1eaft c\u00e0 v\u1ea1t, qu\u1ea7n \u00c2u (th\u01b0\u1eddng l\u00e0 m\u00e0u s\u00e1ng), \u0111i gi\u00e0y da ho\u1eb7c x\u0103ng \u0111an, c\u1eaft t\u00f3c ng\u1eafn, r\u1ebd ng\u00f4i c\u1ea1nh, ch\u1ea3i m\u01b0\u1ee3t, \u0111\u1ed9i m\u0169 c\u00e1t, m\u0169 l\u01b0\u1ee1i trai. Th\u1eddi gian n\u00e0y \u1edf n\u00f4ng th\u00f4n mi\u1ec1n Nam, ngo\u00e0i qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o b\u00e0 ba, nhi\u1ec1u ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111\u00e3 m\u1eb7c s\u01a1 mi. Trong c\u00e1c th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 b\u1ecb t\u1ea1m chi\u1ebfm, \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t l\u00e0 S\u00e0i G\u00f2n, h\u1ea7u h\u1ebft \u0111\u00e0n \u00f4ng \u0111\u1ec1u m\u1eb7c s\u01a1 mi, v\u00e9t-t\u00f4ng, qu\u1ea7n \u00c2u may b\u1eb1ng nhi\u1ec1u lo\u1ea1i v\u1ea3i, nhi\u1ec1u m\u00e0u s\u1eafc, ch\u00e2n \u0111i gi\u00e0y t\u00e2y, x\u0103ng \u0111an, s\u0103m-p\u00f4, d\u00e9p nh\u1ef1a c\u00e1c ki\u1ec3u, \u0111\u1ea7u \u0111\u1ed9i m\u0169 nh\u1ef1a tr\u1eafng, m\u0169 ph\u1edbt, m\u0169 l\u01b0\u1ee1i trai... b\u1eb1ng da hay v\u1ea3i. M\u1ed1t th\u1eddi trang ch\u00e2u \u00c2u tr\u00e0n ng\u1eadp mi\u1ec1n Nam, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c thanh ni\u00ean h\u01b0\u1edfng \u1ee9ng nhanh ch\u00f3ng, \u00e1o s\u01a1 mi chi\u1ebft ly c\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i, \u00e1o thun, \u00e1o ph\u00f4ng tr\u01b0\u1edbc ng\u1ef1c v\u00e0 sau l\u01b0ng in h\u00ecnh ng\u01b0\u1eddi, phong c\u1ea3nh hay in c\u00e1c d\u00f2ng ch\u1eef. Theo phong tr\u00e0o ri34","\\\"h\u00edp-py\\\", m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 nam thanh ni\u00ean m\u1eb7c \u00e1o b\u1eb1ng v\u1ea3i x\u00f4, may g\u1ea7n gi\u1ed1ng ki\u00eau \u00e1o c\u00e1nh r\u1ed9ng, c\u1ed1 tr\u00f2n tr\u1ec5 xu\u1ed1ng ng\u1ef1c, x\u1ebb t\u00e0, g\u1ea5u dc\u00e0i qu\u00e1 m\u00f4ng, th\u00eau o- ng\u1ef1c, c\u01b0a tay v\u00e0 g\u1ea5u \u00e1o, qu\u1ea7n b\u00f2 \\\"zin\\\" s\u1eddn, b\u1ea1c m\u00e0u, \u0111i gu\u1ed1c g\u1ed7 to, m\u0169i b\u1ecbt, g\u00f3t h\u1edf, \u0111\u1ebf cao t\u1eeb 5cm - 9cm, xung quanh \u0111\u00f3ng \u0111inh m\u0169 b\u1eb1ng kim lo\u1ea1i ho\u1eb7c s\u01a1n xanh, \u0111\u1ecf v\u1edbi h\u00ecnh vu\u00f4ng, tr\u00f2n ho\u1eb7c b\u1ea7u d\u1ee5c. Tai v\u00e0 c\u1ed5 c\u1ee7a h\u1ecd \u0111eo v\u00f2ng \u0111\u1ed3ng to, t\u00f3c ch\u1ea5m vai, \u0111\u1ec3 r\u00e2u c\u00e1c ki\u1ec3u. T\u1eeb n\u0103m 1975 \u0111\u1ebfn nay, \u0111a s\u1ed1 \u0111\u00e0n \u00f4ng m\u1ecdi l\u1ee9a tu\u1ed5i trong c\u1ea3 n\u01b0\u1edbc \u0111\u1ec1u m\u1eb7c qu\u1ea7n \u00c2u. C\u00f3 th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 thanh ni\u00ean m\u1eb7c qu\u1eabn \u1ed1ng b\u00f3 kho\u1ea3ng 15cm (\u1ed1ng tu\u00fdp). Nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1970-1980, m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 thanh ni\u00ean m\u1eb7c qu\u00e2n \u1ed1ng loe t\u1eeb 30cm \u0111\u1ebfn 70cm. N\u0103m 1982, m\u1ed1t qu\u1ea7n \u00c2u l\u1ea1i tr\u1edf v\u1ec1 d\u1ea1ng \u1ed1ng \\\"tu\u00fdp\\\", qu\u1ea7n b\u00f3 \u1ed1ng, b\u00f3 m\u00f4ng v\u00e0 b\u00f3 \u0111\u00f9i may b\u1eb1ng lo\u1ea1i v\u1ea3i b\u00f2, ka ki tr\u1eafng ho\u1eb7c nhung k\u1ebb, c\u00f3 t\u00fai n\u1ed5i sau m\u00f4ng, \u0111\u00ednh nhi\u1ec1u khuy b\u1eb1ng \u0111\u1ed3ng... M\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 chi ti\u1ebft c\u1ee7a qu\u1ea7n \u00c2u th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 n\u00e0y c\u00f3 s\u1ef1 thay \u0111\u1ed5i, nh\u01b0 ly l\u1eadt v\u00e0o trong ho\u1eb7c ra ngo\u00e0i, \u0111\u1ec9a to, nh\u1ecf \u1edf c\u1ea1p, t\u00fai th\u1eb3ng, t\u00fai ch\u00e9o. \u0110\u00e0n \u00f4ng khi m\u1eb7c qu\u1ea7n \u0111\u1ec1u d\u00f9ng th\u1eaft l\u01b0ng. Th\u1eaft l\u01b0ng b\u1eb1ng ni l\u00f4ng, b\u1eb1ng v\u1ea3i, b\u1eb1ng da r\u1ed9ng t\u1eeb 2cm - 8cm, kho\u00e1 b\u1eb1ng kim lo\u1ea1i v\u1edbi nhi\u1ec1u h\u00ecnh tr\u00f2n vu\u00f4ng, b\u1ea7u d\u1ee5c, ch\u1eef nh\u1eadt, c\u00f3 h\u1ecda ti\u1ebft ho\u1eb7c ch\u1eef... \u00c1o nam gi\u1edbi th\u01b0\u1eddng, l\u00e0 \u00e1o s\u01a1 mi, tay m\u0103ng-s\u00e9t to b\u1ea3n. C\u00f3 lo\u1ea1i \u00e1o chi\u1ebft ly, g\u1ea5u \u00e1o l\u01b0\u1ee3n, v\u1ea1t \u00f4m l\u1ea5y m\u00f4ng (\u00e1o \u0111u\u00f4i t\u00f4m), c\u00f3 lo\u1ea1i \u00e1o kh\u00f4ng may c\u1ea7u vai ho\u1eb7c c\u00f3 c\u00e0u vai, c\u00f3 hai n\u1ebfp ly ho\u1eb7c kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 ly. Ngo\u00e0i ra, c\u00f2n c\u00f3 \u00e1o ph\u00f4ng, \u00e1o d\u1ec7t kim v.v... phong ph\u00fa v\u1ec1 m\u00e0u s\u1eafc, \u0111a d\u1ea1ng v\u1ec1 ki\u1ec3u may, c\u00f3 khi nam gi\u1edbi c\u00f2n m\u1eb7c \u00e1o hoa, lo\u1ea1i v\u1ea3i m\u1ecfng... M\u00f9a \u0111\u00f4ng c\u0169ng nh\u01b0 nh\u1eefng ng\u00e0y l\u1ec5, ng\u00e0y h\u1ed9i, \u0111\u00e0n \u00f4ng th\u00e0nh th\u1ecb m\u1eb7c com-l\u00ea c\u00e1c m\u00e0u... \u0111eo c\u00e0 v\u1ea1t. C\u00e0 v\u1ea1t c\u00f3 th\u1eddi gian r\u1ea5t nh\u1ecf l\u00e0m b\u1eb1ng v\u1ea3i pha ni l\u00f4ng, nay l\u1ea1i r\u1ea5t to l\u00e0m 1351","b\u1eb1ng c\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i v\u1ea3i hoa. Ngo\u00e0i com-l\u00ea, h\u1ecd c\u00f2n m\u1eb7c \u00e1o v\u00e9t-t\u00f4ng ve to, nh\u1ecf, ve n\u1ed1i, ve li\u1ec1n, ve nh\u1ecdn, ve x\u1ebfch, ve \u0111\u0103n-t\u00f4ng, hai v\u1ea1t \u00e1o ph\u00eda tr\u01b0\u1edbc th\u1eb3ng ho\u1eb7c tr\u00f2n, c\u00f3 lo\u1ea1i v\u00e9t-t\u00f4ng x\u1ebb hai \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng nh\u1ecf \u1edf g\u1ea5u \u00e1o hai b\u00ean m\u00f4ng v\u00e0 nhi\u1ec1u ki\u00eau \u00e1o r\u00e9t kh\u00e1c nh\u01b0 m\u0103ng-t\u00f4 b\u1eb1ng d\u1ea1, \u00e1o m\u00fat, \u00e1o bay, \u00e1o blu-d\u00f4ng b\u1eb1ng da, \u00e1o len d\u1ec7t, \u0111an c\u00e1c ki\u1ec3u v.v... \u1edf n\u00f4ng th\u00f4n, m\u00f9a r\u00e9t m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 ng\u01b0\u1eddi v\u1eabn m\u1eb7c \u00e1o b\u00f4ng ho\u1eb7c \u00e1o va-r\u01a1i b\u1eb1ng d\u1ea1.., \u0111i d\u00e9p cao su \u0111en c\u00f3 hai quai ch\u00e9o ph\u00eda m\u0169i d\u00e9p v\u00e0 hai quai ngang \u0111\u1eb1ng sau, d\u00e9p cao su c\u1ea3i ti\u1ebfn \u0111\u1ebf cao t\u1eeb 3cm - 7cm, c\u00f3 hai quai ch\u00e9o nh\u01b0 x\u0103ng \u0111an, x\u0103ng \u0111an b\u1eb1ng da, \u0111\u1ebf da hay \u0111\u1ebf k\u1ebfp, d\u00e9p nh\u1ef1a ho\u1eb7c s\u0103m p\u00f4 c\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i, gi\u00e0y t\u00e2y, gi\u00e0y ba-ta, b\u00e1t-k\u1ebft th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng. Nh\u00ecn chung, trang ph\u1ee5c c\u1ee7a \u0111\u00e0n \u00f4ng trong c\u1ea3 n\u01b0\u1edbc kh\u00f4ng th\u1ea5y c\u00f2n s\u1ef1 c\u00e1ch bi\u1ec7t gi\u1eefa c\u00e1c t\u1ea7ng l\u1edbp nh\u01b0 trong x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i c\u0169 n\u1eefa. o Trang ph\u1ee5c tr\u1ebb em ng\u01b0\u1eddi Kinh Trang ph\u1ee5c tr\u1ebb em t\u1ed9c ng\u01b0\u1eddi Kinh x\u01b0a kia ch\u01b0a c\u00f3 s\u1ef1 ph\u00e2n bi\u1ec7t r\u00f5 r\u1ec7t v\u1edbi trang ph\u1ee5c c\u1ee7a ng\u01b0\u1eddi l\u1edbn. \u0110\u1ed1i v\u1edbi c\u00e1c em ba, b\u1ed1n tu\u1ed5i, b\u00e9 trai m\u1eb7c \u00e1o c\u00e1nh ng\u1eafn bu\u1ed9c d\u00e2y b\u00ean c\u1ea1nh (thay c\u00fac), qu\u1ea7n li\u1ec1n y\u1ebfm, c\u1ed5 y\u1ebfm c\u00f3 hai d\u1ea3i v\u1ea3i nh\u1ecf bu\u1ed9c ra sau g\u00e1y, hai d\u1ea3i b\u00ean c\u1ea1nh bu\u1ed9c ra sau l\u01b0ng, m\u1eb7c qu\u1ea7n kho\u00e9t \u0111\u0169ng. B\u00e9 g\u00e1i m\u1eb7c v\u00e1y li\u1ec1n y\u1ebfm c\u0169ng c\u00f3 d\u1ea3i v\u1ea3i d\u00e0i bu\u1ed9c nh\u01b0 qu\u1ea7n con trai. T\u00f3c b\u00e9 trai th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u1ec3 tr\u00e1i \u0111\u00e0o, m\u1ed9t m\u1ea3ng d\u00e0i h\u01a1n \u1edf gi\u1eefa \u0111\u1ec9nh \u0111\u1ea7u ch\u1ea3i ra sau (g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 ch\u1ecfm hoa roi). T\u00f3c b\u00e9 g\u00e1i \u0111\u1ec3 m\u1ed9t m\u1ea3ng \u1edf ch\u1ed7 th\u00f3p (g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 c\u00fat tr\u01b0\u1edbc), m\u1ed9t m\u1ea3ng \u1edf ph\u00eda sau \u0111\u1ea7u \u0111\u1ec3 d\u00e0i \u0111\u1ebfn g\u00e1y g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 c\u00fat sau. Tr\u1ebb em th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111eo v\u00f2ng tay, v\u00f2ng ch\u00e2n, v\u00f2ng c\u1ed5, kh\u00e1nh ri36","b\u1eb1ng b\u1ea1c, c\u00f3 g\u1eafn qu\u1ea3 nh\u1ea1c, v\u1eeba \u0111\u1ec3 trang s\u1ee9c v\u1eeba c\u00f3 \u00fd ngh\u0129a gi\u1eef \\\"v\u00eda\\\" cho tr\u1ebb. L\u00ean b\u1ea3y, l\u00ean t\u00e1m tu\u1ed5i, c\u00e1c b\u00e9 g\u00e1i \u0111\u00e3 m\u1eb7c y\u1ebfm, \u00e1o c\u00e1nh ng\u1eafn, ngo\u00e0i m\u1eb7c \u00e1o d\u00e0i b\u1ed1n th\u00e2n m\u00e0u n\u00e2u hay \u0111en. Th\u1eaft l\u01b0ng bu\u00f4ng d\u1ea3i ph\u00eda tr\u01b0\u1edbc, m\u1eb7c v\u00e1y ho\u1eb7c qu\u1ea7n th\u00e2m, \u0111\u1ea7u v\u1ea5n kh\u0103n, d\u00f9 t\u00f3c kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 bao nhi\u00eau v\u1eabn ch\u00edt kh\u0103n vu\u00f4ng. V\u00e0o m\u00f9a r\u00e9t, c\u00e1c em g\u00e1i m\u1eb7c th\u00eam chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o b\u1eb1ng lo\u1ea1i v\u1ea3i th\u00f4 m\u1edf ng\u1ef1c, kh\u00f4ng d\u00f9ng c\u00fac m\u00e0 c\u00f3 d\u00e2y nh\u1ecf bu\u1ed9c hai v\u1ea1t v\u00e0o v\u1edbi nhau, ch\u00e2n \u0111i d\u00e9p da hay gu\u1ed1c g\u1ed7, \u0111eo khuy\u00ean b\u1ea1c. C\u00e1c b\u00e9 trai th\u01b0\u1eddng m\u1eb7c \u00e1o c\u00e1nh v\u00e0 qu\u1ea7n tr\u1eafng. \u0110i \u0111\u00e2u c\u0169ng m\u1eb7c \u00e1o d\u00e0i the th\u00e2m ho\u1eb7c v\u1ea3i tr\u1eafng, c\u1eaft t\u00f3c ng\u1eafn, c\u0169ng c\u00f3 khi \u0111\u1ed9i kh\u0103n x\u1ebfp, \u0111i gu\u1ed1c g\u1ed7 ho\u1eb7c \u0111i ch\u00e2n \u0111\u1ea5t. \u1edf tu\u1ed5i n\u00e0y t\u00f3c nhi\u1ec1u em con nh\u00e0 ngh\u00e8o v\u1eabn \u0111\u1ec3 tr\u00e1i \u0111\u00e0o ho\u1eb7c \u0111\u1ec3 c\u00fat. Nh\u00ecn chung, th\u1eddi gian n\u00e0y tr\u1ebb em thu\u1ed9c t\u1ea7ng l\u1edbp gi\u00e0u hay ngh\u00e8o, qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o v\u00e0 c\u00e1ch \u0103n m\u1eb7c kh\u00f4ng ph\u00f9 h\u1ee3p v\u1edbi l\u1ee9a tu\u1ed5i, r\u1ea5t gi\u1ed1ng trang ph\u1ee5c ng\u01b0\u1eddi l\u1edbn n\u00ean tr\u00f4ng c\u1eb1n c\u1ed7i, gi\u00e0 tr\u01b0\u1edbc tu\u1ed5i r\u1ea5t nhi\u1ec1u. 1371","Sau n\u00e0y, \u1edf th\u1ea3nh th\u1ecb, c\u00e1c em g\u00e1i thu\u1ed9c gia \u0111\u00ecnh t\u1ea7ng l\u1edbp tr\u00ean th\u01b0\u1eddng m\u1eb7c c \u00e1 o d\u00e0i tr\u1eafng b\u1eb1ng l\u1ee5a hay g\u1ea5m, sa tanh c\u00e1c m\u00e0u, c\u00e0i c\u00fac c\u1ea1nh s\u01b0\u1eddn; m\u1eb7c qu\u1ea7n tr\u1eafng; \u0111i gu\u1ed1c g\u1ed7 quai ngang hay gi\u00e0y c\u01b0\u1eddm, t(')c \u0111\u00ea c\u00fat sau d\u00e0i, bu\u1ed9c l\u1ea1i cho g\u1ecdn ho\u1eb7c c\u1eaft theo ki\u1ec3u Nh\u1eadt B\u1ea3n (ph\u00eda tr\u01b0\u1edbc c\u1eaft ngang b\u1eb1ng, hai b\u00ean d\u00e0i h\u01a1n \u1edb gi\u0169-a nh\u01b0ng c\u0169ng c\u1eaft ngang b\u1eb1ng, khoanh ra ph\u00eda sau], ho\u1eb7c d\u00f9ng l\u01b0\u1ee3c b\u1eddm g\u00e0i ng\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u00f3c l\u00ean cho kh\u1edfi xo\u00e3 xu\u1ed1ng m\u1eaft. \u0110\u1ed3 trang s\u1ee9c c\u00f3 hoa tai, ki\u1ec1ng v\u00e0ng, v\u00f2ng tay ho\u1eb7c l\u1eadp l\u1eafc v\u00e0ng. C\u00e1c em trai m\u1eb7c trang ph\u1ee5c nh\u01b0 \u1edf th\u00f4n qu\u00ea nh\u01b0ng d\u00f9ng ch\u1ea5t li\u1ec7u v\u1ea3i m\u1ec1m m\u1ea1i h\u01a1n, thi tho\u1ea3ng m\u1edbi c\u00f3 em trai thu\u1ed9c gia \u0111\u00ecnh kh\u00e1 gi\u1ea3 m\u1eb7c theo ki\u1ec3u trang ph\u1ee5c tr\u1ebb em ch\u00e2u \u00c2u. T\u1eeb sau n\u0103m 1954, trang ph\u1ee5c tr\u1ebb em \u0111\u00e3 c\u00f3 nhi\u1ec1u ki\u1ec3u m\u1eabu ph\u00f9 h\u1ee3p v\u1edbi t\u1eebng l\u1ee9a tu\u1ed5i. Tr\u1ebb s\u01a1 sinh c\u00f3 nh\u1eefng ki\u1ec3u \u00e1o \u0111\u01a1n gi\u1ea3n: \u00c1o c\u00e0i c\u00fac gi\u1eefa, c\u00e0i c\u00fac b\u00ean, \u00e1o ch\u00e9o v\u1ea1t sau... Nh\u1eefng ki\u1ec3u \u00e1o n\u00e0y tr\u1ebb m\u1eb7c \u1ea5m b\u1ee5ng v\u00e0 ng\u1ef1c, may r\u1ed9ng b\u1eb1ng nh\u1eefng lo\u1ea1i v\u1ea3i m\u1ec1m, m\u1ecfng, tho\u00e1ng, h\u1ee3p v\u1ec7 sinh. Tr\u1ebb em t\u1eeb 5 th\u00e1ng \u0111\u1ebfn 3 tu\u1ed5i, \u1edf ngo\u00e0i \u00e1o m\u1eb7c th\u00eam y\u1ebfm d\u00e3i \u0111\u1ec3 '138","tr\u00e1nh \u01b0\u1edbt ng\u1ef1c, c\u00f3 t\u00e1c d\u1ee5ng \u1ea5m b\u1ee5ng, d\u1ec5 lh^^y gi\u1eb7t, \u0111\u1ee1 b\u00e2n \u00e1o b\u00ean trong. C\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i y\u1ebfm d\u00e3i g\u1ed3m y\u1ebfm b\u1ea7u d\u1ee5c [\u0111\u01b0\u1eddng c\u1ea1nh y\u1ebfm, t\u1eeb th\u00e2n \u0111\u1ebfn g\u1ea5u c\u1eaft l\u01b0\u1ee3n h\u00ecnh b\u1ea7u d\u1ee5c), y\u1ebfm h\u00ecnh l\u01b0\u1ee3n S (\u2019m g (t\u1eeb th\u00e2n y\u1ebfm \u0111\u1ebfn g\u1ea5u, c\u1eaft ch\u00e9o r\u1ed9ng ph\u00eda tr\u01b0\u1edbc b\u1ee5ng, g\u1ea5u c\u1eaft h\u00ecnh s\u00f3ng l\u01b0\u1ee3n, ki\u00eau y\u1ebfm n\u00e0y tr\u00f4ng gi\u1ed1ng chi\u1ebfc v\u00e1y nh\u1ecf, th\u01b0\u1eddng cho b\u00e9 g\u00e1i m\u1eb7c), y\u1ebfm h\u00ecnh c\u00e1nh s\u1ebb (h\u00ecnh th\u1ee9c nh\u01b0 chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o gi-l\u00ea, hai m\u1ea3nh sau t\u1eeb c\u1ed5 xu\u1ed1ng g\u1ea5u c\u1eaft l\u01b0\u1ee3n tr\u00f4ng nh\u01b0 c\u00e1nh chim). Ngo\u00e0i ra c\u00f2n nhi\u1ec1u lo\u1ea1i y\u1ebfm h\u00ecnh tr\u00f2n, h\u00ecnh vu\u00f4ng v.v... T\u1ea5t c\u1ea3 c\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i y\u1ebfm \u0111\u1ec1u c\u00e0i c\u00fac hay bu\u1ed9c d\u00e2y sau c\u1ed5. Ph\u00eda d\u01b0\u1edbi n\u00e1ch c\u00f3 hai d\u1ea3i v\u1ea3i nh\u1ecf \u0111\u00ednh \u1edf hai b\u00ean m\u00e9p y\u1ebfm, khi m\u1eb7c b\u1ee7\u1ed9c l\u1ea1i \u1edf sau l\u01b0ng. Xung quanh c\u1ed5, n\u00e1ch, c\u00e1c \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng m\u00e9p th\u01b0\u1eddng th\u00eau ch\u1ec9 kh\u00e1c m\u00e0u. V\u1ea1t y\u1ebfm tr\u01b0\u1edbc b\u1ee5ng, ng\u1ef1c th\u00eau hoa hay h\u00ecnh nh\u1eefng con v\u1eadt nh\u01b0 g\u00e0 th\u1ed5i k\u00e8n, th\u1ecf che \u00f4, chim bay v.v... \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u00e1ch \u0111i\u1ec7u ng\u1ed9 ngh\u0129nh l\u00e0m cho chi\u1ebfc y\u1ebfm th\u00eam \u0111\u1eb9p. \u1edf l\u1ee9a tu\u1ed5i n\u00e0y, c\u00e1c b\u00e9 th\u01b0\u1eddng m\u1eb7c qu\u1ea7n c\u1eaft theo ki\u1ec3u qu\u1ea7n ta, c\u1ea1p chun. \u1edf tu\u1ed5i nhi \u0111\u1ed3ng, b\u00e9 trai m\u1eb7c \u00e1o s\u01a1 mi ng\u1eafn tay ho\u1eb7c d\u00e0i tay. M\u00f9a h\u00e8, m\u1eb7c \u00e1o s\u01a1 mi ng\u1eafn tay may ki\u1ec3u blu-d\u00f4ng li\u1ec1n v\u1edbi qu\u1ea7n so\u00f3c, qu\u1ea7n \u00e2u d\u00e0i ho\u1eb7c qu\u1ea7n y\u1ebfm v\u1edbi t\u00fai ch\u00e9o, t\u00fai vu\u00f4ng, t\u00fai b\u00e1n nguy\u1ec7t; T\u00f3c c\u1eaft ng\u1eafn, \u0111\u1ed9i m\u0169 l\u01b0\u1ee1i trai b\u1eb1ng v\u1ea3i g\u1ed3m 8 m\u1ea3nh v\u1ea3i t\u1eeb hai \u0111\u1ebfn b\u1ed1n m\u00e0u, m\u1ed7i m\u1ea3nh l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t m\u00fai kh\u00e2u n\u1ed1i v\u1edbi nhau ho\u1eb7c \u0111\u1ed9i m\u0169 nan nh\u1ecf v\u00e0nh. B\u00e9 g\u00e1i c\u00f3 nhi\u1ec1u ki\u1ec3u s\u01a1 mi: s\u01a1 mi H\u1ed3ng K\u00f4ng c\u00e0i c\u00fac hay chui \u0111\u1ea7u. \u00c1o c\u1ed9c tay vai b\u1ed3ng, c\u1eeda tay l\u00e0m xi-m\u1ed1c, tay th\u1eb3ng d\u00e0i c\u00f3 m\u0103ng s\u00e9t hay tay l\u1eedng, c\u1ed5 chun, c\u1ed5 th\u1eaft n\u01a1, c\u1ed5 l\u00e1 sen n\u1eb1m, l\u00e1 sen \u0111\u1ee9ng. V\u1ea1t \u00e1o tr\u01b0\u1edbc c\u00f3 hai t\u00fai h\u00ecnh tr\u00e1i \u0111\u00e0o hay n\u1eeda h\u00ecnh tr\u00f2n v.v... C\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i \u00e1o v\u00e1y g\u1ed3m \u00e1o xo\u00e8 (\u00e1o li\u1ec1n v\u00e1y), ph\u1ea7n tr\u00ean 139)","kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 tay, t\u1eeb n\u00e1ch \u0111\u1ebfn g\u1ea5u xo\u00e8 r\u1ed9ng, g\u1ea5u l\u01b0\u1ee3n cong v\u00e0nh l\u01b0\u1ee3c, c\u1ea1nh s\u01b0\u1eddn cao h\u01a1n gi\u0169'a g\u1ea5u. Khi m\u1eb7c, ph\u00e2n d\u01b0\u1edbi v\u00e1y t\u1ea1o th\u00e0nh h\u00ecnh tr\u00f2n. V\u00e1y xo\u00e8 chun ng\u1ef1c, hai quai v\u00e1y to b\u1ea3n t\u1eeb 4cm - 5cm, hai vai \u0111\u00ednh v\u00e0o th\u00e2n v\u00e1y, ph\u1ea7n ng\u1ef1c kh\u00e2u chun v\u1ea3i hay l\u00e0m xi-m\u1ed1c b\u1eb1ng ch\u1ec9 m\u00e0u. T\u1eeb n\u00e1ch \u0111\u1ebfn g\u1ea5u x\u00f2e r\u1ed9ng. V\u00e1y x\u1ebfp ly, quai v\u00e1y to b\u1ea3n, hai \u0111\u1ea7u \u0111\u00ednh v\u00e0o th\u00e2n v\u00e1y, t\u1eeb n\u00e1ch \u0111\u1ebfn g\u1ea5u xo\u00e8 v\u1eeba ph\u1ea3i, \u1edf ng\u1ef1c v\u00e1y hay sau l\u01b0ng m\u1edf m\u1ed9t \u0111o\u1ea1n nh\u1ecf \u0111\u1ec3 m\u1eb7c d\u1ec5 d\u00e0ng. Khi m\u1eb7c xong th\u00ec c\u00e0i l\u1ea1i ho\u1eb7c bu\u1ed9c d\u00e2y th\u00e0nh h\u00ecnh n\u01a1 cho k\u00edn. V\u00e1y x\u1ebfp ly c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 may b\u1eb1ng hai ho\u1eb7c ba m\u00e0u v\u1ea3i. M\u1ea3nh v\u00e1y tr\u01b0\u1edbc c\u00f3 m\u1ecdt t\u00fai gi\u1eefa ho\u1eb7c hai t\u00fai hai b\u00ean h\u00ecnh b\u00e1n nguy\u1ec7t hay h\u00ecnh qu\u1ea3 tim, h\u00ecnh l\u1eb5ng hoa v.v... b\u1eb1ng v\u1ea3i \u0111\u1ed3ng m\u00e0u ho\u1eb7c kh\u00e1c v\u1edbi m\u00e0u v\u00e1y. M\u00f9a \u0111\u00f4ng c\u00e1c b\u00e9 trai v\u00e0 g\u00e1i m\u1eb7c \u00e1o kho\u00e1c li\u1ec1n m\u0169, \u00e1o len, \u00e1o m\u0103ng t\u00f4. Qu\u1ea7n li\u1ec1n \u00e1o chun g\u1ea5u ho\u1eb7c qu\u1ea7n \u00c2u b\u1eb1ng len hay v\u1ea3i d\u1ec7t kim, \u0111\u1ed9i c\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i m\u0169 len \u0111an ho\u1eb7c d\u1ec7t, m\u0169 d\u1ea1, m\u0169 m\u1ea3nh che tai, m\u0169 m\u1ea3nh che g\u00e1y b\u1eb1ng nhi\u1ec1u lo\u1ea1i v\u1ea3i hoa gh\u00e9p, m\u0169 ki\u1ec3u phi c\u00f4ng v.v... H\u1ecdc sinh n\u1eef t\u1eeb 7 \u0111\u1ebfn 15 tu\u1ed5i m\u1eb7c \u00e1o s\u01a1 mi ng\u1eafn tay ho\u1eb7c d\u00e0i tay, c\u00f3 m\u0103ng-s\u00e9t hay tay l\u1eedng, c\u1ed5 l\u00e1 sen, tr\u00f2n hay nh\u1ecdn ho\u1eb7c hai ve, qu\u1ea7n \u00c2u nhi\u1ec1u m\u00e0u c\u00e1c ki\u1ec3u, \u1ed1ng th\u1eb3ng hay h\u01a1i loe ho\u1eb7c qu\u1ea7n b\u00e0 ba \u1ed1ng g\u1ecdn. T\u00f3c c\u1eaft ng\u1eafn ngang vai ho\u1eb7c \u0111\u1ec3 d\u00e0i c\u1eb7p g\u1ecdn ph\u00eda sau, r\u1ebd hai b\u00ean, bu\u1ed9c n\u01a1, t\u1ebft \u0111u\u00f4i sam hai b\u00ean ho\u1eb7c c\u1eaft t\u1ec9a g\u1ecdn ng\u1eafn \u0111\u1ebfn tai. H\u1ecdc sinh nam m\u00f9a h\u00e8 th\u01b0\u1eddng m\u1eb7c s\u01a1 mi c\u1ed9c tay hay d\u00e0i tay, qu\u1ea7n \u00c2u, b\u1ecf \u00e1o ra ngo\u00e0i ho\u1eb7c cho g\u1ecdn v\u00e0o trong qu\u1ea7n. M\u00f9a r\u00e9t, nam n\u1eef \u0111\u1ec1u m\u1eb7c th\u00eam \u00e1o len c\u1ed9c tay, d\u00e0i tay, ho\u1eb7c \u00e1o kho\u00e1c ngo\u00e0i b\u1eb1ng c\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i v\u1ea3i d\u00e0y, \u1ea5m. Th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 ch\u1ed1ng M\u1ef9, c\u00e1c em th\u01b0\u1eddng m\u1eb7c qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o m\u00e0u s\u1eabm v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed9i ^140","m\u1ed9t lo\u1ea1i m\u0169 \u0111an b\u1eb1ng r\u01a1m, c\u00f3 t\u00e1c d\u1ee5ng ch\u1ed1ng m\u1ea3nh bom, m\u1ea3nh \u0111\u1ea1n - \u0111\u00f3 c\u0169ng l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t trang ph\u1ee5c \u0111\u00e1ng ghi nh\u1edb. \u00f4 Trang ph\u1ee5c c\u01b0\u1edbi Trong ng\u00e0y c\u01b0\u1edbi th\u1eddi x\u01b0a, trang ph\u1ee5c c\u1ee7a c\u00f4 d\u00e2u mi\u1ec1n B\u1eafc l\u00e0 b\u1ed9 \u00e1o m\u1edb ba, ngo\u00e0i c\u00f9ng l\u00e0 \u00e1o the th\u00e2m, b\u00ean trong \u1ea9n hi\u1ec7n hai chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o m\u00e0u h\u1ed3ng v\u00e0 m\u00e0u xanh, ho\u1eb7c m\u00e0u v\u00e0ng v\u00e0 m\u00e0u h\u1ed3 thu\u1ef7, b\u00ean trong c\u00f9ng l\u00e0 \u00e1o c\u00e1nh tr\u1eafng, chi\u1ebfc y\u1ebfm hoa \u0111\u00e0o c\u00f3 d\u1ea3i b\u1eb1ng l\u1ee5a b\u1ea1ch, v\u00e1y s\u1ed3i \u0111en ho\u1eb7c v\u00e1y l\u0129nh, th\u1eaft l\u01b0ng g\u1ed3m hai chi\u1ebfc b\u1eb1ng l\u1ee5a m\u00e0u hoa \u0111\u00e0o, hoa l\u00fd, ngo\u00e0i c\u00f9ng l\u00e0 th\u1eaft l\u01b0ng s\u1ed3i xe hay v\u1ea3i sa m\u00e0u \u0111en, c\u1ea3 ba th\u1eaft l\u01b0ng \u0111\u1ec1u c\u00f3 tua \u1edf hai \u0111\u1ea7u. C\u00f4 d\u00e2u v\u1ea5n kh\u0103n, \u0111\u1ea7u kh\u0103n g\u00e0i chi\u1ebfc \u0111anh ghim, \u0111\u00ednh con b\u01b0\u1edbm v\u00e0ng ch\u1ea1m b\u1ea1c, \u0111\u1ec3 t\u00f3c \u0111u\u00f4i g\u00e0. L\u00fac \u0111\u01b0a d\u00e2u, \u0111i \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng c\u00f4 d\u00e2u \u0111\u1ed9i n\u00f3n th\u00fang quai thao, ch\u00e2n \u0111i d\u00e9p cong. \u0110\u1ed3 trang s\u1ee9c g\u1ed3m khuy\u00ean tai b\u1eb1ng v\u00e0ng ho\u1eb7c b\u1ea1c, c\u1ea1nh s\u01b0\u1eddn \u0111eo b\u1ed9 x\u00e0 t\u00edch, con dao, \u1ed1ng v\u00f4i... b\u1eb1ng b\u1ea1c ch\u1ea1m tr\u1ed5 tinh vi. C\u00f4 d\u00e2u mi\u1ec1n Trung c\u0169ng m\u1eb7c \u00e1o m\u1edb ba, trong c\u00f9ng l\u00e0 \u00e1o m\u00e0u \u0111\u1ecf ho\u1eb7c h\u1ed3ng \u0111i\u1ec1u, \u00e1o gi\u1eefa b\u1eb1ng the hay v\u00e2n th\u01b0a m\u00e0u xanh ch\u00e0m, \u00e1o ngo\u00e0i c\u00f9ng b\u1eb1ng the hay v\u00e2n th\u01b0a m\u00e0u \u0111en. C\u00f3 ng\u01b0\u1eddi ch\u1ec9 m\u1eb7c l\u1ed3ng hai \u00e1o, trong l\u00e0 \u00e1o m\u00e0u \u0111\u1ecf ho\u1eb7c h\u1ed3ng \u0111i\u1ec1u, ngo\u00e0i l\u00e0 v\u00e2n th\u01b0a m\u00e0u xanh ch\u00e0m, qu\u1ea7n tr\u1eafng, \u0111i h\u00e0i th\u00eau, t\u00f3c ch\u1ea3i l\u1eadt, b\u00fai sau g\u00e1y, c\u1ed5 \u0111eo ki\u1ec1ng ho\u1eb7c qu\u1ea5n chu\u1ed7i h\u1ed9t v\u00e0ng cao l\u00ean quanh c\u1ed5, tay \u0111eo v\u00f2ng v\u00e0ng, xuy\u1ebfn v\u00e0ng... C\u00f4 d\u00e2u mi\u1ec1n Nam m\u1eb7c \u00e1o d\u00e0i g\u1ea5m, qu\u1ea7n l\u0129nh \u0111en, \u0111i h\u00e0i th\u00eau, t\u00f3c ch\u1ea3i l\u1eadt, b\u00fai l\u1ea1i v\u00e0 cu\u1ed1n ba v\u00f2ng ph\u00eda sau \u0111\u00e2u, g\u00e0i l^\u01b0\u1ee3c \\\"b\u00e1nh l\u00e1i\\\" b\u1eb1ng \u0111\u1ed3i m\u1ed3i ho\u1eb7c b\u1eb1ng v\u00e0ng, b\u1ea1c. C\u00f3 ng\u01b0\u1eddi c\u00e0i tr\u00e2m v\u00e0ng, \u0111\u1ea7u tr\u00e2m \u0111\u00ednh m\u1ed9t con b\u01b0\u1edbm b\u1eb1ng","v\u00e0ng hay b\u1ea1c, \u0111eo d\u00e2y chuy\u1ec1n n\u00e1ch (x\u00e0 n\u00e1ch) b\u1eb1ng v\u00e0ng, nhi\u1ec1u chu\u1ed7i h\u1ed9t v\u00e0ng \u1edf c\u00f4... Ch\u00fa r\u00ea ba mi\u1ec1n \u0111\u1ec1u m\u1eb7c \u00e1o th\u1ee5ng b\u1eb1ng g\u1ea5m hay the m\u00e0u lam, qu\u1ea7n tr\u1eafng \u1ed1ng s\u1edb, b\u00fai t\u00f3c, ch\u00edt kh\u0103n nhi\u1ec5u m\u00e0u lam, ch\u00e2n \u0111i v\u0103n h\u00e0i th\u00eau \u0111\u1eb9p. Nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1920-1930, \u1ecf\u2019 th\u00e0nh th\u1ecb mi\u1ec1n B\u1eafc, c\u00f4 d\u00e2u m\u1eb7c \u00e1o d\u00e0i c\u00e0i v\u1ea1t, ngo\u00e0i l\u00e0 chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o the th\u00e2m, trong l\u00e0 \u00e1o m\u00e0u h\u1ed3ng, xanh... ho\u1eb7c ngo\u00e0i l\u00e0 \u00e1o d\u00e0i sa tanh \u0111en, trong l\u00e0 \u00e1o d\u00e0i l\u1ee5a tr\u1eafng C\u1ed5 \u0110\u00f4, qu\u1ea7n l\u0129nh hay sa tanh \u0111en, ch\u00e2n \u0111i v\u0103n h\u00e0i th\u00eau h\u1ea1t c\u01b0\u1eddm hay gu\u1ed1c cong, v\u1ea5n kh\u0103n nhung \u0111en, \u0111eo hoa tai b\u00e8o, c\u1ed5 \u0111eo nhi\u1ec1u v\u00f2ng chu\u1ed7i h\u1ed9t b\u1eb1ng v\u00e0ng. Ch\u00fa r\u1ec3 m\u1eb7c \u00e1o d\u00e0i the th\u00e2m, \u00e1o d\u00e0i tr\u1eafng b\u00ean trong, qu\u1ea7n tr\u1eafng \u1ed1ng s\u1edb, \u0111i gi\u00e0y Gia \u0110\u1ecbnh, \u0111\u1ed9i kh\u0103n x\u1ebfp. Khi l\u1ec5 t\u01a1 h\u1ed3ng, l\u1ec5 \u1edf nh\u00e0 th\u1edd th\u00ec kho\u00e1c \u00e1o th\u1ee5ng lam. \u0110\u1ebfn giai \u0111o\u1ea1n sau, c\u00e1c c\u00f4 d\u00e2u con nh\u00e0 gi\u00e0u m\u1eb7c \u00e1o th\u1ee5ng b\u1eb1ng g\u1ea5m m\u00e0u \u0111\u1ecf ho\u1eb7c m\u00e0u v\u00e0ng c\u00f3 h\u1ecda ti\u1ebft r\u1ed3ng ph\u01b0\u1ee3ng, c\u00e1nh tay \u00e1o d\u00e0i v\u00e0 r\u1ed9ng, qu\u1ea7n tr\u1eafng, \u0111i gi\u00e0y v\u00e2n h\u00e0i b\u1eb1ng nhung m\u00e0u \u0111\u1ecf, m\u00e0u v\u00e0ng hay lam, th\u00eau r\u1ed3ng, ph\u01b0\u1ee3ng b\u1eb1ng h\u1ea1t c\u01b0\u1eddm hay ch\u1ec9 kim tuy\u1ebfn l\u00f3ng l\u00e1nh, \u0111\u1ea7u \u0111\u1ed9i kh\u0103n v\u00e0nh d\u00e2y b\u1eb1ng nhi\u1ec5u m\u00e0u lam hay v\u00e0ng, qu\u1ea5n nhi\u1ec1u v\u00f2ng quanh \u0111\u1ea7u. C\u00f3 c\u00f4 d\u00e2u m\u1eb7c \u00e1o d\u00e0i b\u1eb1ng v\u1ea3i n\u1ec1n kh\u00f4 hoa \u01b0\u1edbt ho\u1eb7c g\u1ea5m hoa, sa tanh hay nhung \u0111\u1ecf... m\u1eb7c qu\u1ea7n l\u1ee5a tr\u1eafng, v\u1ea5n kh\u0103n v\u00e0nh d\u00e2y, c\u1ed5 \u0111eo ki\u1ec1ng hay d\u00e2y chuy\u1ec1n, tay \u0111eo xuy\u1ebfn, v\u00f2ng. \u1edf th\u00e0nh th\u1ecb sau n\u00e0y, c\u00f4 d\u00e2u trang \u0111i\u1ec3m son ph\u1ea5n, c\u00e0i th\u00eam b\u00f4ng hoa h\u1ed3ng tr\u1eafng b\u1eb1ng voan \u1edf ng\u1ef1c tr\u00e1i, tay \u00f4m b\u00f3 hoa lay \u01a1n tr\u1eafng, t\u01b0\u1ee3ng tr\u01b0ng cho s\u1ef1 trong tr\u1eafng, \u0111\u1ed3ng th\u1eddi l\u00e0m \u0111\u1eb9p cho b\u1ed9 trang ph\u1ee5c ng\u00e0y c\u01b0\u1edbi. Ch\u00fa r\u1ec3 m\u1eb7c com-l\u00ea, th\u1eaft c\u00e0 v\u1ea1t hay c\u00e0i n\u01a1 \u1edf c\u1ed5, \u0111i gi\u00e0y da. \u1edf ngo\u1ea1i ri42","th\u00e0nh, c\u00f4 d\u00e2u m\u1eb7c theo l\u1ed1i c\u1ed5 truy\u1ec1n, \u00e1o d\u00e0i c\u00e0i c\u00fac, qu\u1ea7n l\u0129nh \u0111en. Ch\u00fa r\u1ec3 \u00e1o the, qu\u1ea7n tr\u1eafng, \u0111\u1ed9i kh\u0103n x\u1ebfp. Trong kh\u00e1ng chi\u1ebfn ch\u1ed1ng Ph\u00e1p, \u1edf v\u00f9ng t\u1ef1 do, \u0111\u00e1m c\u01b0\u1edbi \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u1ed5 ch\u1ee9c gi\u1ea3n d\u1ecb, ph\u00f9 h\u1ee3p v\u1edbi ho\u00e0n c\u1ea3nh t\u1eebng n\u01a1i. Trang ph\u1ee5c l\u1ec5 c\u01b0\u1edbi v\u00ec v\u1eady m\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 g\u00ec kh\u00e1c bi\u1ec7t trang ph\u1ee5c ngc\u00e0y th\u01b0\u1eddng, ch\u1ec9 l\u00e0 qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o m\u1edbi may. Sau n\u0103m 1954, \u1edf th\u00e0nh th\u1ecb mi\u1ec1n B\u1eafc, c\u00f4 d\u00e2u m\u1eb7c \u00e1o d\u00e0i m\u00e0u tr\u1eafng ho\u1eb7c c\u00e1c m\u00e0u s\u00e1ng, nh\u1ea1t, m\u1eb7c qu\u1ea7n tr\u1eafng, \u0111i gi\u00e0y cao g\u00f3t, tay \u00f4m hoa lay-\u01a1n, t\u00f3c u\u1ed1n ho\u1eb7c ch\u1ea3i b\u1ed3ng, trang \u0111i\u1ec3m m\u00e1 h\u1ed3ng, m\u00f4i son. Ch\u00fa r\u00ea m\u1eb7c com-l\u00ea, th\u1eaft c\u00e0 v\u1ea1t, \u0111i gi\u00e0y. C\u00f4 d\u00e2u \u1edf n\u00f4ng th\u00f4n th\u01b0\u1eddng m\u1eb7c \u00e1o s\u01a1 mi tr\u1eafng, \u00e1o c\u00e1nh tr\u1eafng hay \u00e1o b\u00e0 ba, qu\u1ea7n \u0111en, \u0111i d\u00e9p. Ch\u00fa r\u1ec3 m\u1eb7c \u00e1o s\u01a1 mi m\u1edbi, qu\u1ea7n \u00c2u, \u0111i gi\u00e0y, x\u0103ng \u0111an ho\u1eb7c d\u00e9p nh\u1ef1a. Ch\u00fa r\u1ec5 l\u00e0 b\u1ed9 \u0111\u1ed9i v\u1eabn c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 m\u1eb7c b\u1ed9 qu\u00e2n ph\u1ee5c, c\u00e1n b\u1ed9 th\u00ec m\u1eb7c qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o \u0111\u1ea1i c\u00e1n m\u1edbi, t\u00f3c ch\u1ea3i g\u1ecdn g\u00e0ng. Sau n\u0103m 1975, \u0111\u1ea5t n\u01b0\u1edbc th\u1ed1ng nh\u1ea5t, m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 c\u00f4 d\u00e2u \u1edf th\u00e0nh th\u1ecb mi\u1ec1n Nam, mi\u1ec1n B\u1eafc m\u1eb7c \u00e1o li\u1ec1n v\u00e1y m\u00e0u tr\u1eafng ho\u1eb7c m\u00e0u v\u00e0ng, m\u00e0u xanh nh\u1ea1t, g\u1ea5p n\u1ebfp \u1edf tay, \u1edf ng\u1ef1c, v\u00e1y xo\u00e8 r\u1ed9ng, d\u00e0i qu\u00e1 g\u00f3t ch\u00e2n, c\u00f3 nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc v\u00e1y t\u1eeb th\u1eaft l\u01b0ng \u0111\u1ebfn g\u1ea5u chia l\u00e0m nhi\u1ec1u \u0111o\u1ea1n v\u1edbi nh\u1eefng khoanh \u0111\u0103ng ten, g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 v\u00e1y ba t\u1ea7ng hay n\u0103m t\u1ea7ng, ho\u1eb7c v\u00e1y d\u00e0i, g\u1ea5p nhi\u1ec1u \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng, chi\u1ebft \u1edf ng\u1ef1c, th\u1eaft l\u01b0ng..., \u0111i gi\u00e0y cao g\u00f3t tr\u1eafng, tay \u0111eo g\u0103ng m\u1ecfng, c\u1ed5 \u0111eo chu\u1ed7i h\u1ea1t kim c\u01b0\u01a1ng ho\u1eb7c gi\u1ea3 kim c\u01b0\u01a1ng hay xa-phia l\u00f3ng l\u00e1nh, t\u00f3c u\u1ed1n qu\u0103n. M\u00e1i t\u00f3c ph\u00eda tr\u01b0\u1edbc c\u00e0i v\u00f2ng hoa tr\u1eafng b\u1eb1ng v\u1ea3i, ho\u1eb7c ch\u1ea3i b\u1ed3ng cao, c\u00e0i nh\u1eefng v\u00f2ng h\u1ea1t c\u00f3 tua r\u1ee7 xu\u1ed1ng hai b\u00ean th\u00e1i d\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u00e0 \u1edf gi\u1eefa tr\u00e1n, ch\u00f9m kh\u0103n voan tr\u1eafng tr\u00ean \u0111\u1ea7u. M\u1eb7t trang \u0111i\u1ec3m ph\u1ea5n son \u0111\u1eadm n\u00e9t, nhi\u1ec1u ng\u01b0\u1eddi k\u1ebb m\u1eaft \u0111\u1eadm, m\u00ed m\u1eaft tr\u00ean 1431","b\u00f4i xanh, \u0111eo l\u00f4ng mi gi\u1ea3 o.\u00e0i va cong. Tay \u00f4m b\u00f3 hoa iay- \u01a1n tr\u1eafng, th\u00eam m\u1ed9t d\u00e2y hoa h\u1ed3ng tr\u1eafng d\u00e0i g\u1eabn \u0111\u1ebfn ch\u00e2n. T\u1ea5t c\u1ea3 nh\u1eefng c\u00e1i \u0111\u00f3 l\u00e0m cho c\u00f4 d\u00e2u kh\u00e1c bi\u1ec7t v\u00e0 n\u1ed5i b\u1eadt l\u00ean gi\u1eefa c\u00e1c c\u00f4 ph\u00f9 d\u00e2u. Ch\u00fa r\u1ec3 m\u1eb7c com-l\u00ea, th\u1eaft c\u00e0 v\u1ea1t \u0111i\u1ec3m hoa nhi\u1ec1u m\u00e0u, \u0111i gi\u00e0y da \u0111en, c\u00e0i b\u00f4ng hoa h\u1ed3ng tr\u1eafng \u1edf t\u00fai \u00e1o ng\u1ef1c, \u1edf n\u00f4ng th\u00f4n, trang ph\u1ee5c c\u00f4 d\u00e2u, ch\u00fa r\u1ec3 ch\u1ec9 l\u00e0 qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o m\u1eb7c ng\u00e0y th\u01b0\u1eddng nh\u01b0ng m\u1edbi v\u00e0 \u0111\u1eb9p. Nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1981-1982, trang ph\u1ee5c c\u00f4 d\u00e2u \u0111\u00e3 quay v\u1ec1 chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o d\u00e0i c\u1ed5 truy\u1ec1n d\u00e2n t\u1ed9c v\u1edbi m\u1ea5y ki\u1ec3u sau: - Ki\u1ec3u \u00e1o d\u00e0i \\\"ho\u00e0ng h\u1eadu\\\", c\u1ed5 \u0111\u1ee9ng cao, tay th\u1ee5ng, d\u00e0i v\u1eeba t\u1ea7m, may s\u00e1t th\u00e2n, m\u00e0u \u0111\u1ecf hay nhi\u1ec1u m\u00e0u s\u1eafc kh\u00e1c, \u0111\u1ed9i kh\u0103n v\u00e0nh d\u00e2y m\u00e0u v\u00e0ng b\u1eb1ng v\u1ea3i kim tuy\u1ebfn, ng\u1ef1c c\u00e0i b\u00f4ng hoa h\u1ed3ng tr\u1eafng, m\u1eb7c qu\u1ea7n tr\u1eafng, \u0111i gi\u00e0y cao g\u00f3t, trang \u0111i\u1ec3m nh\u1eb9. - Ki\u1ec3u \u00e1o d\u00e0i b\u00ecnh th\u01b0\u1eddng m\u00e0u tr\u1eafng ho\u1eb7c c\u00e1c m\u00e0u s\u00e1ng, \u0111i\u1ec3m hoa nh\u1eb9, may s\u00e1t th\u00e2n, tay h\u01a1i loe, vai gi\u00e9c-l\u0103ng, ri44","v\u1ea1t d\u00e0i ngang \u1ed1ng ch\u00e2n, qu\u1ea7n tr\u1eafng, \u0111i gi\u00e0y tr\u1eafng cao g\u00f3t, t\u00f3c \u0111\u00ea t\u1ef1 nhi\u00ean, c\u00e0i th\u00eam b\u00f4ng hoa tr\u1eafng nh\u1ecf, tay \u00f4m hoa lay-\u01a1n tr\u1eafng. \u00f4 Trang ph\u1ee5c tang Tr\u01b0\u1edbc kia, nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111\u1ec3 tang \u0111\u1ec1u m\u1eb7c qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o tang b\u1eb1ng v\u1ea3i x\u00f4 tr\u1eafng. \u0110i \u0111\u01b0a ma th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111i ch\u00e2n \u0111\u1ea5t. Nh\u00e0 gi\u00e0u \u1edf th\u00e0nh th\u1ecb sau b\u1ecf l\u1ec7 \u1ea5y, \u0111i d\u00e9p t\u1ebft b\u1eb1ng c\u00f3i. Sau l\u1ec5 tang, nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi th\u00e2n v\u1eabn c\u00f2n ch\u00edt kh\u0103n ngang cho t\u1edbi 100 ng\u00e0y. \u00c1o qu\u1ea7n \u0111\u1ec3 x\u1ed5 g\u1ea5u. S\u1ed1ng \u00e1o d\u00e0i \u0111\u1ec3 hai n\u1eb9p m\u00e1y ra ngo\u00e0i (nh\u01b0 m\u1eb7c \u00e1o tr\u00e1i). N\u1ebfu \u0111\u1ed9i m\u0169 c\u00e1t hay m\u0169 ph\u1edbt, qu\u1ea5n kh\u0103n tr\u1eafng quanh m\u0169 ho\u1eb7c may m\u1ed9t khoanh b\u0103ng \u0111en (r\u1ed9ng kho\u1ea3ng 4cm) th\u1eeba ra hai \u0111u\u00f4i ng\u1eafn v\u1ec1 ph\u00eda sau, l\u1ed3ng v\u00e0o m\u0169. T\u1eeb C\u00e1ch m\u1ea1ng th\u00e1ng T\u00e1m \u0111\u1ebfn nay, trang ph\u1ee5c l\u1ec5 tang \u0111\u01a1n gi\u1ea3n nhi\u1ec1u. \u00c1o x\u00f4 nh\u01b0ng b\u1ecf hai tay \u00e1o, tr\u1eeb nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111\u1ec3 tr\u1edf \u0111\u1ea1i tang, c\u00f2n l\u1ea1i ch\u1ec9 qu\u1ea5n kh\u0103n v\u1ea3i tr\u1eafng, h\u00e0ng ch\u1eaft, kh\u0103n m\u00e0u v\u00e0ng, h\u00e0ng ch\u00fat ch\u00edt kh\u0103n m\u00e0u \u0111\u1ecf. \u0110\u01b0a \u0111\u00e1m \u0111i gi\u00e0y d\u00e9p b\u00ecnh th\u01b0\u1eddng. Nhi\u1ec1u ng\u01b0\u1eddi kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u1ed9i m\u0169 r\u01a1m, kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ed1ng g\u1eady n\u1eefa. Ng\u00e0y th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u1ec3 tr\u1edf b\u1eb1ng c\u00e1ch d\u00f9ng mi\u1ebfng v\u1ea3i \u0111en r\u1ed9ng ch\u1eebng 8cm m\u00e1y th\u00e0nh nhi\u1ec1u n\u1ebfp \u0111eo quanh c\u00e1nh tay ho\u1eb7c \u0111\u00ednh tr\u01b0\u1edbc ng\u1ef1c m\u1ed9t mi\u1ebfng v\u1ea3i \u0111en nh\u1ecf. 2. TRANG PH\u1ee4C C\u1ee6A NG\u01af\u1edcI CH\u1ee8T o V\u00e0i n\u00e9t v'\u00ea trang ph\u1ee5c T\u1eeb tr\u01b0\u1edbc t\u1edbi nay, ng\u01b0\u1eddi Ch\u1ee9t kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng 1451","tr\u1ed3ng b\u00f4ng d\u1ec7t v\u1ea3i, tr\u01b0\u1edbc \u0111\u00e2y h\u1ecd th\u01b0\u1eddng l\u1ea5y v\u1ecf c\u00e2y sui \u0111\u1eadp d\u1eadp l\u00e0m \u0111\u1ed3 che th\u00e2n. Sau n\u00e0y h\u1ecd th\u01b0\u1eddng mua b\u00e1n, trao \u0111\u1ed5i s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m l\u1ea5y v\u1ea3i v\u00f3c qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o c\u1ee7a ng\u01b0\u1eddi Kinh ho\u1eb7c ng\u01b0\u1eddi L\u00e0o trong v\u00f9ng \u0111\u00ea m\u1eb7c. Do v\u1eady, qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o c\u1ee7a h\u1ecd r\u1ea9t \u0111\u01a1n s\u01a1, ch\u1ee7 y\u1ebfu l\u00e0 y ph\u1ee5c h\u00e0ng ng\u00e0y. Hi\u1ec7n nay ng\u01b0\u1eddi Ch\u1ee9t \u0103n m\u1eb7c gi\u1ed1ng ng\u01b0\u1eddi Kinh. o Trang ph\u1ee5c ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef Ch\u1ee9t T\u00f9y t\u1eebng nh\u00f3m m\u00e0 ng\u01b0\u1eddi Ch\u1ee9t c\u00f3 phong c\u00e1ch trang ph\u1ee5c kh\u00e1c nhau. Ng\u01b0\u1eddi Ch\u1ee9t \u1edf Qu\u1ea3ng B\u00ecnh th\u01b0\u1eddng m\u1eb7c trang ph\u1ee5c g\u1ed3m kh\u0103n, \u00e1o, v\u00e1y. Kh\u0103n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c may b\u1eb1ng lo\u1ea1i v\u1ea3i tr\u1eafng, d\u00e0i. Khi d\u00f9ng h\u1ecd \u0111\u1ed9i kh\u0103n l\u00ean \u0111\u1ea7u, th\u1eaft n\u00fat sau g\u00e1y. \u00c1o \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c may theo ki\u1ec3u t\u1ee9 th\u00e2n, c\u1ed5 tr\u00f2n, tr\u00ean c\u00f3 m\u1ed9t mi\u1ebfng v\u1ea3i trang tr\u00ed \u0111\u00ednh v\u00e0o. N\u1eb9p ng\u1ef1c l\u00e0 mi\u1ebfng v\u1ea3i r\u1ed9ng kho\u1ea3ng 2,5cm X 25cm. Tr\u01b0\u1edbc kia \u1edf m\u00e9p n\u1eb9p ng\u1ef1c c\u00f3 7 h\u00e0ng c\u00fac b\u1ea1c, sau n\u00e0y h\u1ecd th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u00ednh d\u00e2y v\u1ea3i \u0111\u00ea bu\u1ed9c l\u1ea1i v\u1edbi nhau. V\u00e1y: Do kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 t\u1eadp qu\u00e1n th\u00eau th\u00f9a n\u00ean v\u00e1y c\u1ee7a ng\u01b0\u1eddi Ch\u00fat r\u1ea5t \u0111\u01a1n gi\u1ea3n, ki\u1ec3u v\u00e1y ph\u1ee5 thu\u1ed9c v\u00e0o t\u1ea5m v\u1ea3i khi h\u1ecd mua v\u1ec1. M\u1ed9t chi\u1ebfc v\u00e1y th\u01b0\u1eddng c\u00f3 chi\u1ec1u d\u00e0i kho\u1ea3ng 60cm, c\u1ea1p v\u00e1y r\u1ed9ng 15cm, g\u1ea5u v\u00e1y th\u01b0\u1eddng l\u00e0 m\u1ea3nh v\u1ea3i th\u1ed5 c\u1ea9m c\u1ee7a ng\u01b0\u1eddi L\u00e0o, r\u1ed9ng kho\u1ea3ng 15cm may \u0111\u00ednh v\u00e0o th\u00e2n v\u00e1y. o Trang ph\u1ee5c nam gi\u1edbi Ch\u1ee9t X\u01b0a kia m\u00f9a h\u00e8, \u0111\u00e0n \u00f4ng Ch\u00fat th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u00f3ng kh\u1ed1, c\u1edfi tr\u1ea7n, m\u00f9a \u0111\u00f4ng m\u1eb7c \u00e1o l\u00e0m b\u1eb1ng v\u1ecf c\u00e2y sui. Hi\u1ec7n nay \u0111\u00e0n \u00f4ng Ch\u1ee9t m\u1eb7c \u0111\u1ed3 gi\u1ed1ng ng\u01b0\u1eddi Kinh ri46","3. TRANG PH\u1ee4C C\u1ee6A NG\u01af \u1edcI M\u01af\u1edcNG o V\u00e0i n\u00e9t v\u1ec1 trang ph\u1ee5c Ng\u01b0\u1eddi M\u01b0\u1eddng c\u00f3 nh\u1eefng \u0111\u1eb7c tr\u01b0ng r\u1ea5t n\u1ed1i b\u1eadt v\u1ec1 c\u00e1ch t\u1ea1o h\u00ecnh v\u00e0 phong c\u00e1ch th\u1ea9m m\u1ef9 tr\u00ean trang ph\u1ee5c. Ch\u00ednh \u0111i\u1ec1u \u0111\u00f3 t\u1ea1o cho ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef M\u01b0\u1eddng n\u00e9t duy\u00ean d\u00e1ng khi kho\u00e1c tr\u00ean m\u00ecnh trang ph\u1ee5c truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng c\u1ee7a d\u00e2n t\u1ed9c h\u1ecd. Th\u1ed5 c\u1ea9m c\u1ee7a ng\u01b0\u1eddi M\u01b0\u1eddng mang \u0111\u1eadm m\u00e0u s\u1eafc hoa v\u0103n c\u1ee7a n\u00fai r\u1eebng v\u00e0 thi\u00ean nhi\u00ean. Hoa v\u0103n tr\u00ean th\u1ed3 c\u1ea9m l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng h\u00ecnh c\u00e1ch \u0111i\u1ec7u t\u1eeb hoa d\u1ebb, hoa h\u1ed3i, h\u1ea1t g\u1ea5c, qu\u1ea3 tr\u00e1m... tuy kh\u00f4ng c\u1ea7u k\u1ef3 nh\u01b0ng th\u1ec3 hi\u1ec7n nh\u00e2n sinh quan, th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi quan v\u1ec1 con ng\u01b0\u1eddi, v\u0169 tr\u1ee5 v\u00e0 t\u00ecnh y\u00eau thi\u00ean nhi\u00ean, s\u1ef1 g\u1eafn b\u00f3, h\u00e0i h\u00f2a v\u1edbi n\u00fai r\u1eebng c\u1ee7a h\u1ecd. Ng\u01b0\u1eddi M\u01b0\u1eddng c\u00f3 truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng tr\u1ed3ng b\u00f4ng, \u01b0\u01a1m t\u01a1, d\u1ec7t v\u1ea3i ph\u1ee5c v\u1ee5 nhu c\u1ea7u gia \u0111\u00ecnh. C\u00f4ng c\u1ee5 d\u1ec7t ch\u1ee7 y\u1ebfu c\u1ee7a h\u1ecd g\u1ed3m d\u1ee5ng c\u1ee5 c\u00e1n b\u00f4ng, xa quay s\u1ee3i, khung d\u1ec7t d\u00f9ng b\u00e0n \u0111\u1ea1p v\u00e0 go lu\u1ed3n s\u1ee3i. Khung d\u1ec7t c\u1ea1p v\u00e1y c\u1ea5u t\u1ea1o kh\u00e1c \u0111\u00f4i ch\u00fat, \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t c\u00f3 nhi\u1ec1u go, hoa v\u0103n c\u00e0ng ph\u1ee9c t\u1ea1p th\u00ec s\u00f4' go ph\u1ea3i d\u00f9ng c\u00e0ng l\u1edbn. T\u1eeb th\u00e1ng 5 \u00e2m l\u1ecbch, ng\u01b0\u1eddi M\u01b0\u1eddng b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u thu ho\u1ea1ch b\u00f4ng, sau khi ph\u00e2n lo\u1ea1i, ph\u01a1i kh\u00f4 h\u1ecd \u0111em v\u00e0o \u1ee9u [c\u00e1n b\u00f4ng) v\u00e0 k\u00e9o s\u1ee3i. M\u1ed7i con s\u1ee3i d\u00e0i ch\u1eebng 15-20cm. K\u00e9o s\u1ee3i b\u1eb1ng xa, tay quay ph\u1ea3i quay th\u1eadt \u0111\u1ec1u \u0111\u1ec3 s\u1ee3i ch\u1ec9 m\u1ec1m, \u0111\u1ec1u, m\u1ecbn, \u0111\u1eb9p. K\u00e9o xong s\u1ee3i, h\u1ecd b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u h\u1ed3 b\u1eb1ng n\u01b0\u1edbc c\u01a1m g\u1ea1o tr\u1eafng, h\u1ed3 xong, ph\u01a1i kh\u00f4 \u0111\u1ec3 xe th\u00e0nh \u1ed1ng. Sau khi ho\u00e0n t\u1ea5t c\u00e1c kh\u00e2u chu\u1ea9n b\u1ecb m\u1edbi \u0111\u1ebfn c\u00f4ng \u0111o\u1ea1n d\u1ec7t. N\u1ebfu d\u1ec7t v\u1ea3i tr\u1eafng \u0111\u01a1n gi\u1ea3n th\u00ec m\u1ed9t ng\u00e0y c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 d\u1ec7t \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u1eeb 7-lOm, n\u1ebfu d\u1ec7t c\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i hoa v\u0103n th\u00ec ch\u1ec9 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c 2-3m. Ng\u01b0\u1eddi M\u01b0\u1eddng c\u00f3 c\u00e1ch nhu\u1ed9m th\u00e2n v\u00e1y kh\u00e1 c\u00f4ng phu. 1471","t\u1ea1o n\u00ean m\u00e0u v\u1ea3i v\u1eeba b\u1ec1n v\u1eeba c\u00f3 \u0111\u1ed9 b\u00f3ng r\u1ea5t cao. C\u00e1c nguy\u00ean li\u1ec7u \u0111\u1ec3 nhu\u1ed9m v\u1ea3i \u0111\u1ec1u \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c khai th\u00e1c t\u1eeb thi\u00ean nhi\u00ean. M\u00e0u \u0111\u1ecf l\u1ea5y t\u1eeb c\u00e2y bang, m\u00e0u v\u00e0ng l\u1ea5y t\u1eeb c\u00e2y ngh\u1ec7, m\u00e0u \u0111en l\u1ea5y t\u1eeb c\u00e2y ch\u00e0m... H\u1ecd c\u00f3 r\u1ea5t nhi\u1ec1u c\u00e1ch nhu\u1ed9m kh\u00e1c nhau; - Mu\u1ed1n nhu\u1ed9m v\u1ea3i m\u00e0u \u0111en, h\u1ecd h\u00e1i l\u00e1 ch\u00e0m v\u1ec1 \u1ee7 kho\u1ea3ng ba ng\u00e0y, sau \u0111\u00f3 v\u1eaft l\u1ea5y n\u01b0\u1edbc, trao qua l\u1ea1i cho n\u01b0\u1edbc ch\u00e0m s\u00e1nh \u0111en, m\u00fac n\u01b0\u1edbc \u1ea5y (c\u00f3 th\u00eam nh\u1ef1a c\u00e2y v\u00f3n v\u00e9n v\u00e0 n\u01b0\u1edbc tro) \u0111\u1ed5 v\u00e0o \u1ed1ng \u0111\u1ec3 m\u1ed9t tu\u1ea7n, sau \u0111\u00f3 g\u1ea1n b\u1ecf b\u1ecdt r\u1ed3i cho s\u1ee3i v\u00e0o nhu\u1ed9m. - Mu\u1ed1n nhu\u1ed9m v\u1ea3i \u0111i\u1ec3m nh\u1eefng b\u00f4ng hoa tr\u00ean n\u1ec1n h\u1ed3ng, \u0111\u1ecf, xanh, ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta th\u1eaft n\u00fat v\u1ea3i l\u1ea1i, sao cho nh\u1eefng ch\u1ed7 \u0111\u00f3 thu\u1ed1c nhu\u1ed9m kh\u00f4ng th\u1ea5m v\u00e0o \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c, nhu\u1ed9m xong, n\u01a1i \u0111\u00f3 hi\u1ec7n l\u00ean nh\u1eefng b\u00f4ng hoa tr\u1eafng gi\u1eefa n\u1ec1n h\u1ed3ng, \u0111\u1ecf hay xanh, ch\u1ed7 th\u01b0a ch\u1ed7 mau. S\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m d\u1ec7t c\u1ee7a ng\u01b0\u1eddi M\u01b0\u1eddng g\u1ed3m nhi\u1ec1u lo\u1ea1i: v\u1ea3i 148!","may m\u1eb7c, m\u1eb7c ph\u00e0 l\u00e0m ch\u0103n v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ec7m, nh\u01b0ng \u0111\u1ed9c \u0111\u00e1o nh\u1ea5t l\u00e0 ph\u1ea7n c\u1ea1p v\u00e1y. C\u1ea1p v\u00e1y d\u1ec7t b\u1eb1ng s\u1ee3i t\u01a1 t\u1eb1m v\u1edbi nhi\u1ec1u lo\u1ea1i hoa v\u0103n trang tr\u00ed, hoa v\u0103n \u0111\u1ed9ng v\u1eadt, ph\u1ed5 bi\u1ebfn l\u00e0 c\u00e1c m\u00f4-t\u00edp r\u1ed3ng, ph\u01b0\u1ee3ng, h\u01b0\u01a1u, r\u00f9a, c\u00e1, nh\u1ec7n, hoa v\u0103n th\u1ef1c v\u1eadt nh\u01b0 hoa sen, hoa c\u00e0 v\u00e0 hoa v\u0103n h\u00ecnh h\u1ecdc. K\u1ef9 thu\u1eadt d\u1ec7t c\u0169ng nh\u01b0 c\u00e1ch trang tr\u00ed \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u01b0u truy\u1ec1n qua h\u00ecnh th\u1ee9c m\u1eb9 d\u1ea1y c\u00e1ch d\u1ec7t cho con g\u00e1i. X\u01b0a kia, c\u1ea1p v\u00e1y d\u1ec7t \u0111\u1eb9p l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t trong nh\u1eefng ti\u00eau chu\u1ea9n \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 ph\u1ea9m h\u1ea1nh c\u1ee7a ng\u01b0\u1eddi ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef. Ng\u01b0\u1eddi M\u01b0\u1eddng nhu\u1ed9m c\u1ea1p v\u00e1y t\u1eeb c\u00e1c c\u00e2y, qu\u1ea3 v\u00e0 l\u00e1 tr\u00ean r\u1eebng. Qu\u00e1 tr\u00ecnh t\u1ea1o m\u00e0u \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u00e0m ho\u00e0n to\u00e0n th\u1ee7 c\u00f4ng b\u1eb1ng \u0111\u00f4i tay kh\u00e9o l\u00e9o, c\u1ea7n m\u1eabn c\u1ee7a ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef M\u01b0\u1eddng. Hi\u1ec7n nay, c\u00e1c s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m m\u00e0u t\u1ef1 nhi\u00ean \u0111\u00e3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c thay th\u1ebf b\u1eb1ng c\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i ph\u1ea5m m\u00e0u ho\u00e1 h\u1ecdc v\u1edbi nhi\u1ec1u m\u00e0u s\u1eafc nh\u01b0ng m\u00e0u ho\u00e1 h\u1ecdc ch\u00f3ng phai h\u01a1n v\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng tinh t\u1ebf nh\u01b0 m\u00e0u c\u1ed5 truy\u1ec1n. Nh\u00ecn chung, trang ph\u1ee5c c\u1ee7a ng\u01b0\u1eddi M\u01b0\u1eddng th\u1ec3 hi\u1ec7n r\u00f5 n\u00e9t b\u1ea3n s\u1eafc v\u0103n ho\u00e1 d\u00e2n t\u1ed9c c\u1ee7a h\u1ecd. \u1eef Trang ph\u1ee5c ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef M\u01b0\u1eddng Trang ph\u1ee5c th\u01b0\u1eddng ng\u00e0y c\u1ee7a ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef M\u01b0\u1eddng g\u1ed3m \u00e1o, v\u00e1y v\u00e0 kh\u0103n \u0111\u1ed9i \u0111\u1ea7u. \u00c1o ng\u1eafn (p\u1ed5n) m\u1eb7c ngo\u00e0i. \u0110\u00e2y l\u00e0 lo\u1ea1i \u00e1o d\u00e0i ch\u1ea9m eo l\u01b0ng, ph\u00eda sau c\u00f3 \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng can v\u1ea3i d\u1ecdc s\u1ed1ng l\u01b0ng. Ph\u00eda tr\u01b0\u1edbc kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 c\u1ed5. Ng\u00e0y x\u01b0a \u00e1o ng\u1eafn c\u00f3 hai lo\u1ea1i n\u1eb9p \u00e1o. Ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef kh\u00e1 gi\u1ea3 n\u1eb9p \u00e1o \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c may (tr\u00e0ng) v\u1eaft qua c\u1ed5 sang hai b\u00ean. Tr\u00e0ng r\u1ed9ng b\u1eb1ng ng\u00f3n tay, may ch\u1ed3ng hai l\u1edbp v\u1ea3i. Ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef b\u00ecnh d\u00e2n m\u1eb7c lo\u1ea1i \u00e1o c\u1ed5 tr\u00f2n, hai v\u1ea1t may n\u1eb9p. Tay \u00e1o kh\u00f4ng may n\u1ed1i vai m\u00e0 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u1eaft may li\u1ec1n theo ki\u1ec3u \u00e1o b\u00e0 ba thon d\u1ea7n v\u1ec1 ph\u00eda c\u1ed5 tay. V\u00e1y (w\u1ed7l): G\u1ed3m hai ph\u1ea7n ch\u00ednh; ph\u1ea7n \u0111\u1ea7u v\u00e1y hay 1491","th\u01b0\u1eddng g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 c\u1ea1p v\u00e1y, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u00ednh t\u1eeb h\u00f4ng l\u00ean. Ph\u00e2n t\u1eeb h\u00f4ng tr\u1edf xu\u1ed1ng m\u1eaft c\u00e1 ch\u00e2n l\u00e0 ph\u1ea7n th\u00e2n v\u00e1y. V\u00e1y c\u1ee7a ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef M\u01b0\u1eddng th\u01b0\u1eddng nhu\u1ed9m th\u00e2m hay m\u00e0u ch\u00e0m. N\u1ed5i b\u1eadt tr\u00ean v\u00e1y ch\u00ednh l\u00e0 ph\u1eabn c\u1ea1p v\u00e1y. C\u1ea1p v\u00e1y do ba b\u1ed9 ph\u1eadn d\u1ec7t ri\u00eang r\u1ed3i can l\u1ea1i v\u1edbi nhau. \u0110i\u1ebfm n\u1ed5i b\u1eadt nh\u1ea5t c\u1ee7a c\u1ea1p v\u00e1y M\u01b0\u1eddng l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng h\u1ecda ti\u1ebft trang tr\u00ed hoa v\u0103n. V\u1edbi m\u1ed9t di\u1ec7n t\u00edch kh\u00f4ng l\u1edbn, c\u1ea1p v\u00e1y ch\u1ee9a \u0111\u1ef1ng m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 l\u01b0\u1ee3ng hoa v\u0103n kh\u00e1 phong ph\u00fa c\u1ea3 v\u1ec1 h\u00ecnh th\u1ee9c v\u00e0 ki\u1ec3u lo\u1ea1i. \u0110\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t, c\u1ea1p v\u00e1y c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 t\u00e1ch th\u00e0nh t\u1eebng b\u1ed9 ph\u1eadn ri\u00eang, n\u00ean khi kh\u00f4ng c\u1ea7n thi\u1ebft ho\u1eb7c ch\u01b0a d\u00f9ng \u0111\u1ebfn, c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u00e1ch ra c\u1ea5t ri\u00eang. M\u1ed9t c\u1ea1p v\u00e1y c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng cho nhi\u1ec1u v\u00e1y, th\u1eadm ch\u00ed c\u00f3 nhi\u1ec1u ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u1edf c\u00e1c th\u1ebf h\u1ec7 kh\u00e1c nhau. C\u1ea1p v\u00e1y g\u00f4m ba ph\u1ea7n g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 rang tr\u00ean, rang d\u01b0\u1edbi v\u00e0 cao. Ph\u1ea7n tr\u00ean c\u00f9ng g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 rang tr\u00ean, trang tr\u00ed hoa v\u0103n h\u00ecnh h\u1ecdc [h\u00ecnh thoi, h\u00ecnh vu\u00f4ng hay h\u00ecnh tam gi\u00e1c...), r\u1ed9ng g\u1ea7n 20cm. Rang tr\u00ean c\u00f3 nhi\u1ec1u m\u00e0u s\u1eafc, th\u01b0\u1eddng l\u00e0 m\u00e0u \u0111en v\u00e0 m\u00e0u tr\u1eafng. Ti\u1ebfp \u0111\u1ebfn l\u00e0 ph\u1ea7n rang d\u01b0\u1edbi - b\u1ed9 ph\u1eadn quan tr\u1ecdng nh\u1ea5t c\u1ee7a c\u1ea1p v\u00e1y, ch\u1ee7 y\u1ebfu l\u00e0 hoa v\u0103n \u0111\u1ed9ng v\u1eadt v\u1edbi r\u1ea5t nhi\u1ec1u m\u00f4 t\u00edp kh\u00e1c nhau. Hai m\u00e0u \u0111\u1ecf v\u00e0 v\u00e0ng n\u1ed5i b\u1eadt v\u1edbi nh\u1eefng h\u00ecnh r\u1ed3ng, h\u01b0\u01a1u, nh\u1ec7n, b\u01b0\u1edbm, \u1ebfch, r\u00f9a, c\u00f4ng, ph\u01b0\u1ee3ng... \u0111\u00f3 l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng con v\u1eadt g\u1eafn b\u00f3, g\u1ea7n g\u0169i v\u1edbi cu\u1ed9c s\u1ed1ng v\u00e0 c\u00e1c s\u1ef1 t\u00edch x\u01b0a c\u1ee7a ng\u01b0\u1eddi M\u01b0\u1eddng. Ph\u1ea7n cu\u1ed1i c\u00f9ng c\u1ee7a c\u1ea1p n\u1ed1i v\u1edbi th\u00e2n v\u00e1y g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 cao. Cao l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t chu\u1ed7i nh\u1eefng v\u1ec7t m\u00e0u \u0111\u1ee9ng th\u1eb3ng. Cao v\u00e1y r\u1ed9ng t\u1eeb 10-15cm, d\u1ec7t c\u00e1c s\u1ecdc m\u00e0u, m\u1ed7i s\u1ecdc to nh\u1ecf kh\u00e1c nhau. C\u00f3 s\u1ecdc mang hoa v\u0103n h\u00ecnh h\u1ecdc, c\u00f3 s\u1ecdc mang hoa v\u0103n h\u00ecnh c\u00e2y, l\u00e1 c\u00e1ch \u0111i\u1ec7u. ^150"]