Nail care II

NAIL CARE II Cosmetic Science for Hair and Nail Care (1701317) Sarita Sangthong, Ph.D.

OVERVIEW #1 #2 #3

OVERVIEW

NAIL STRENGTHENERS NAIL HYDRATOR NAIL HARDENER CROSS-LINKING REINFORCING



Affects?

NAIL HYDRATOR Hydrators work with ingredients that moisturize the nail to keep it flexible so it bends rather than breaks. These products are oily and waxy materials mixed with water. So it’s available in emulsion form Long term use for a maximum effect

NAIL PERMEABILITY ENHANCERS 1. Keratolytic enhancers; the agent that hydrates and swelling nail plate leads to the loosing keratin cells then forms the bigger pores of penetration ex. Urea, Salicylic acid, Thioglycolic acid 2. Keratinolytic enzymes; protease enzyme, especially keratinase hydrolyses keratin filaments then weaken the cell integrity and increase the permeability 3. Sulfahydry-containing compound; the (-SH) can cleave the disulfide bonds (S-S) make the bond weaker ex. Acetylcystein, cysteine, mercaptoethanol

https://patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/c0/cf/fe/c981276272ef67/US4530828.pdf

•As set forth above, the composition of the invention comprises an aqueous emulsion containing the ingredients tabulated below. •Said ingredients are essential for accomplishing the desired results and are present in percent by weight, based on the weight of the total composition, within the following ranges: https://patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/c0/cf/fe/c981276272ef67/US4530828.pdf

NAIL MOISTURIZING INGREDIENTS Protein (Extra-rich), Keratin (Hydrolized), Calcium, and Vitamins Highly effective conditioning and therapeutic nail treatments Panthenol works in symbiosis with Keratin, a major component of skin and nails. Ability to penetrate through the nail to provide moisture, soften and protect, which is ideal for dry, damaged and fragile nails. https://www.nancykbrown.com/subcat/29/Nail-Protein-Therapy



NOURISHING TREATMENT FOR HEALTHIER HANDS. https://www.lookfantastic.com.sg/svr-xerial-40-nail-nourishing-protecting-treatment-for- thickened-damaged-nails-10ml/11643724.html The lightweight gel creates a protective barrier over each nail to defend against damaging free radicals and other environmental stressors, helping to prevent breakage and splitting. Nails are strengthened, smoothed and made visibly healthier. Aqua (Purified Water), Urea, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Triethanolamine, Polyacrylate-13, Salicylic Acid, Polyisobutene, Piroctone Olamine, Serine, Bacillus Ferment, Histidine, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Isostearate, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate

https://www.essence.eu/th/trend-editions/blossom-dreams/e/product/blossom-dreams-nail-oil-2/



Ingredients



NAIL HARDENER The overusing of nail hardener can cause  __________

NAIL HARDENER Cross-linking hardener: •Reacting with the protein in nails, create chemical bonds that link the protein chains together to make the nails more rigid. • Contain ingredients such as formaldehyde resin, epoxy resin, calcium, hydrolyzed keratin. Work inside the nail

NAIL HARDENER: CROSS-LINKING HARDENER • Formaldehyde or by different names, such as “formalin” and methylene glycol.” formaldehyde bonds with the keratin • 5% as the maximum safe level for formalin in nail hardening products. (US. FDA) • Most manufacturers use from 0.5 to 2% formalin in their nail hardeners. •Avoid skin contact due to the potential for irritation and sensitization (allergies). •Non-formaldehyde nail hardener is more popular recently http://www.probeauty.org/docs/nmc/NailHardenersandFormaldehyde.pdf https://thingstoconsider.info/nail-hardener/

https://patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/c9/ba/3f/4865486a98f2ef/US20120014892A1.pdf

0016. Indeed, it has been observed, surprisingly and contrary to the indications from the prior art (in particular from patent GB 1 183513) that monoaldehydes having alkyl or alkenyl radicals comprising from 5 to 12 carbon atoms exhibit nail-hardening properties. 0017. Moreover, these aldehydes do not exhibit yellowing over time and do not have an odor that is unpleasant for the user, at concentrations less than or equal to 1% by Weight. Thus, the aldehyde of formula (I) can be used in a cosmetic composition for nails. 0019. It has also been observed that the nail-hardening properties are present even at concentrations of less than or equal to 0.01% by weight of aldehyde of formula (I).

0020. The aldehyde of formula (I) may advantageously be chosen from hexanal, heptanal, octanal, nonanal, dodecanal, trans- 4-decenal, undecanal and undecylenic aldehyde, or a mixture thereof. 0021. These aldehydes have the advantage of not presenting any health risk (sensitization, allergy, toxicity, nor carcinogenic effect, unlike certain active agents from the prior art).

NAIL HARDENER Reinforcing hardener: Coat the nail, enhance a layer on top of nail plate to reinforce their smooth and natural structure. 1. Bond hardener 2. Protein web hardener 3. Fiber web hardener Work 4. Mineral shield hardener outside https://discover.hubpages.com/style/nail_hardeners_for_brittle_nails the nail https://cc2sallyhansen-res.cloudinary.com/image/upload/

REINFORCING SURFACE BOND HARDENER Although the nail plate is made mostly of keratin proteins, there are deposits of the mineral calcium that attach to the keratin. Fluoride is a chemical substance that bonds to calcium molecules. Applying a nail hardener that contains fluoride results in chemical bonds being formed between the fluoride in the product and the calcium found naturally occurring in the nail plate. CaF (calcium-fluoride) bonds take place on the surface of the nail.

REINFORCING PROTEIN WEB HARDENERS Protein hardeners such as keratin form a web-like network of interlacing protein filaments (fibers) on the surface of the nail. Hydrolyzed grain and vegetable proteins, such as soy, wheat, and corn, are also formulated into nail hardeners. Upon application of the product, the amino acids re-bond to form new protein filaments (fibers) and create a web-like network on the surface of the nail. These filaments (fibers) are microscopic but do harden the nail. Protein hardeners do not penetrate the nail because their molecules are too large to do so.

REINFORCING FIBER WEB HARDENERS Some nail hardeners contain micro-fibers made of nylon, silk, or fiberglass. They form a web-like network of interlacing fibers on the surface of the nail. The micro-fibers are chosen for their strength. Nylon is a tough, elastic, synthetic polymer that has a chemical structure similar to proteins. Silk is a naturally occurring material that is produced by insects and is known to be strong and resistant to breakage. Fiberglass is made of glass fibers and is strong and non-brittle.

REINFORCING MINERAL SHIELD HARDENERS Mineral hardeners form a hard, protective shield on the surface of the nail and are made of minerals such as diamond powder or calcium. Diamonds are considered the hardest known substance. Calcium is what makes bones strong and hard. Both minerals form a hard, thick shield on the surface of the nail for reinforcement.



DECORATIVE NAIL CARE VS NAIL HARDENER Product class Nail lacquer Basecoat Topcoat Nail hardener Coating created by Solvent Solvent evaporation Solvent evaporation Mainly solvent evaporation, evaporation polymerization of formalin Resin type or mix may occur Pigment Balanced Biased toward adhesion Biased toward glossiness and Yes hardness Balanced or biased toward adhesion Little or none Little or none Usually none Benefits Attractive color Helps color coat last Helps color coat last longer, Strengthens natural nail by longer, protects natural some contain optical cross-linking proteins; may be used as basecoat nail from staining brighteners or UV protectant

DECORATIVE NAIL CARE

NAIL DISCOLORATION  Nail plate discoloration and allergic contact dermatitis are the major dermatological concerns with the use of nail polish. The nail staining is seen more with dissolved rather than suspended pigments The use of nail polish has been linked to yellow-orange discoloration of the superficial nail.  D&C Red No 6, 7, and 34 and FD&C Yellow No. 5 Lake in the vanish may stain the keratin in the surface of the nail.  This discoloration usually resolves within two weeks of removal of nail polish.  Longer use may lead to deeper penetration of the dye and discoloration that will only resolve with growing out of the nail

NAIL DISCOLORATION  Another yellow-orange discoloration can be from the smoking habits.  The tar and nicotine in cigarettes stain the fingernails as the smoker holds the cigarette

NAIL BLEACH  Using the oxidation reaction by hydrogen peroxide, hypo chlorites, or zinc peroxide (less water soluble)  Using the reduction reaction by sulfite and weak acid  Basic pH (greater than 7), most preferably about pH 8.0-8.5.

NAIL BLEACH

NAIL BLEACH AB Ingredient 9.71 9.71 Hydrogen peroxide (35%) Deionized water qs.100 qs.100 Sodium hydroxide (25% active) Steareth-10 alkyl ether/ acrylate copolymer 0.77 0.77 Sodium lauryl sulfate Sodium chloride 2.00 2.00 Polyoxypropylene/polyoxyethylene block copolymer 1.9 - 0.1 - - 5.00

NAIL WHITE  Using for the even “white” of the free edge nail.  Enhances natural white nail tips, giving them a clean, well-cared for look.  Mostly contains white pigment of zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, kaolin, talcum or colloidal silica as 20-30% (w/w).  Prepared as a form of paste with the fatty base or pencil.  Thickening agent could be added, such as, casein, gum arabic for pigment dispersion.

NAIL WHITE A B 55.0 - Ingredient 9.0 - Beeswax 9.0 - Hydrogenated cotton seed oil 8.0 - Cocoa butter 9.0 - Castor oil 62.0 Lanolin base - 38.0 Petrolatum jelly 10.0 Titanium dioxide

https://www.savers.ie/cuccio-nail-whitening-paste-p-5077.html https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-1950s-Revlon-Nail-White- Paste-Glass-Jar-w-Contents-Vanity-Collectible-/123739597485



NAIL DRYER How long you have to wait for nail vanish drying? •Depends partly on the type of nail polish and nail polish dryer you use. • Generally, it takes 20 min to an hour before nail polish is completely dry, especially if you've used a base coat, two coats of nail polish and a topcoat. •Formaldehyde-free polishes take more time to dry. •Many nail polish dryers allow you to use your hands 5 to 10 minutes after polish is applied. https://www.sallybeauty.com/FAQ_NAILS_084.html

NAIL DRYER Quick Dry Nail  How does it works? • quick-dry agents contain solvents that evaporate quickly  volatile silicones; cyclomethicone or dimethicone and/or natural or quick evaporated oils • When applied, the product doesn’t dissolve the nail polish. • instead they absorb the solvents in the polish to speed up drying by pulling the liquid in the polish along with them • if the spray contains a propellant, it will evaporate quickly, acting like a quick-dry product https://www.nailsmag.com/383615/chemists-corner-quick-dry-drops-and-sprays

NAIL DRYER https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/88707376-c779-4729-8ef0-71647291d021.2da11cc24411e379d291693367211eab.jpeg https://www.nailsmag.com/383615/chemists-corner-quick-dry-drops-and-sprays https://imabeautygeek.com/.image/t_share/MTM4NzY2MjU1NjY5NjUxMjA2/nail-polish-drying-drops_squarejpg.jpg https://m.media-amazon.com/images/S/aplus-media/sc/6aebc98f-f595- https://images.ulta.com/is/image/Ulta/2523232?op_sharpen 47a0-82f9-5c2f6804f700.__CR0,0,300,300_PT0_SX300_V1___.png

NAIL DRYER Sally Hansen Salon Manicure Dry & Go Drops Size 0.34 oz| Price$6.49 •A fast nail polish dryer that helps prevent smudges and dings. With just a few drops, nails are dry to the touch in 60 seconds and completely dry in less than 2 minutes. •How to Use: Remove cap and replace with dropper. Apply nail color and top coat. Wait 60 seconds, then apply 1 to 2 drops per nail. •Ingredients: Disiloxane, Dimethicone, Simmondsia chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Tocopherol, D&C Green No. 6 (CI 61565). https://www.ulta.com/salon-manicure-dry-go-drops?productId=xlsImpprod17821209

NAIL DRYER SEPHORA COLLECTION Express Drying Oil 2 in 1 express drying oil that dries nail polish in 1 minute. Magnifies shine, instantly smoothens nails and nourishes cuticles. INGREDIENTS: C10-12 ISOPARAFFIN, PARAFFINUM LIQUIDUM (MINERAL OIL), DISILOXANE. https://www.sephora.ae/en/p/express-drying-oil-P941013.html#product-info

NAIL DRYER Onyx Professional No More Smearing Nail Drying Spray 7.5 oz, $2.48 https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/88707376-c779-4729-8ef0-71647291d021.2da11cc24411e379d291693367211eab.jpeg

NAIL DRYER Quick Dry Nail  How does it works? Drying = Ingredient =

NAIL VANISH REMOVER Commonly available in many types including; Type I Solvent type Type 2 Non smearing enamel type Type 3 Cream type Type 4 Gel type varnish remover Type 5 Conditioning nail polish remover

NAIL VANISH REMOVER ACETONE FREE WHY?

NAIL VANISH REMOVER https://inglotusa.com/remover/76-nail-enamel-remover-25-ml