Jan-Feb2020 Mag

MADRIDMETROPOLITANJanuary–February,2020 Madrid in English www.madridmetropolitan.com @metropolimadrid /MadridMetropolitan 14 FREE Hidden Madrid Magazine El Rastro History 11 Sports Cricket in Madrid 13 Wine Report Upcoming Spanish regional wines 16 Dani Garcia Goes International C. Ganímedes, 7 · C. Auriga, 3 · Aravaca EVENTS • FOOD • ART • CULTURE T. 91 357 26 67 · tems.es thinkers BRITISH EDUCATION WITH MONTESSORI PEDAGOGY FROM 3 TO 18 YEARS OLD

Welcome to our new edition A new year and a new edition of the Madrid Metropolitan. We are tremendously delighted that super chef Dani Garcia has had the time to talk to us and his interview with Abi Clark is insightful into the kitchen maestro´s journey and his hopes for the future. Roger Pike returns with his cristal ball for the what we can expect in Spain on the economic front for 2020. Elliot Pigott throws a few balls to find out about the Madrid Cricket Club and Peter Besas gives us some background into the history of Madrid´s famous flea market – El Rastro. That and a whole lot more awaits. We hope you enjoy reading. The Madrid Metropolitan Team Olaf Clayton Olaf Clayton Publisher The iconic Deco-style Capitol Building on Gran Via. Photo by Alberto Restifo on Unsplash.com 2 January /February 2020 The Madrid Metropolitan

Who’s writing January - February 2020 Contentsthis month? MADRIDRoger Pike 14 2 Welcome from the Publisher UK born and bred, with 13 4 The Way Ahead a Catalan mother, Roger was sent to Madrid by 20 6 Whats On his company on a one- year assignment in 1990, 24 8 New Books for a New Year but managed to stay on for 29 years. Writing about READ ONLINE: 10 HM Hospitales Delivers More business and the economy www.madridmetropolitan.com from his long experience of Find us on: 11 Cricket in Madrid working in Corporate Banking, he now helps For the opportunity to publicise companies enter new international markets. He your business or your event, contact 12 Food: Gastro Experiences is currently living in New York, but his home is Olaf Clayton in Madrid. [email protected] 13 Wine Report: Upcoming PUBLISHED BY: PENINSULAR HOLDING CO. Spanish regional wines Luke Darracott CIF:B85761344 Calle Isabel Colbrand 10, Planta 5 – Oficina 151, 28050 Madrid Tomo: 14 Hidden Madrid: The Rastro- Originally from the 27.630 Folio: 1 Sección: 8 Hoja: M497912. La A Flea Market for All Tastes UK, Luke is a qualified edición, redacción, impresión, publicación, alcoholic who studied distribución, venta y explotación publicitaria 16 Cover Story: Dani Garcia languages at University. de periódicos y revistas con el CNAE 5814 Goes International Apart from a year out in Moscow he has lived 18 Education: Why bilinguals in Madrid giving wine are smarter! tastings and gastronomic food tours and writing about 20 Songs About Madrid Spain since 2009. In 2018 he opened an inde- pendent wine shop called Madrid & Darracott 22 French Connection: with his friend and business partner Roque Our Diplomatic World Madrid. His passion is food, travel and wine; in particular the communication of wine without 24 Going Out: How to the pretentiousness. Eat and Drink in Madrid Abi Clark 26 Classified Directory Since moving to Madrid EDICIÓN DE REVISTAS. Views expressed in 1997 Abi has been in Madrid Metropolitan are the opinions working in the Televi- of the writers and are not necessarily sion & Radio world as endorsed by the publishers. Although we a Freelance Journalist, make every effort to quote the correct Voice Actress/Radio prices and opening hours for establishments Presenter and Execu- mentioned in the magazine, it is possible tive Producer. She has some may have changed since we went to worked extensively with Radio press. All advertisements are published in Nacional 5 with her programme ‘Un Paseo Por good faith. Madrid Metropolitan cannot El Mundo’ and has written articles for El País accept responsibility for errors or omissions and various English language magazines for the in individual ads or accept responsibility for Asian market. Apart from a 3 year gap in 2005 work, services or goods. working in Television in China and plenty of fo- Madrid Metropolitan is published by reign travel for both work and pleasure, Madrid Peninsular Holding Co. has been her much loved home for more than 2 decades. METROPOLITAN PUBLISHER: Olaf Clayton SALES: Jenny Osborne Photo credits: Andres Alagon, Alex Vasey, Inigo de la Maza, Tania Fernandez design: Dinesh Kumar Pandey website: https://www.asiaad.info email: [email protected] Illustrator: Rastro. A Ovejero and D Muñoz CONTRIBUTORS: Kimberley Bailey, Jenny Osborne, Michael Duncan, Kris Sinclair Christian, Luke Darracot, Peter Besas, Katherine Cannings, Abi Lindsay Clark, Elliot Pigott & Peter Besas, Roger Pike, Stephen Jenkins The Madrid Metropolitan January /February 2020 3

Business Roger Pike takes a look at the outlook for the the new Spanish Government & Economy for the coming year. THE WAY AHEAD it’s probably not a good idea to load down companies with more regulations W hen in September Spain’s then to stick to necessary spending. Many of and costs, and to hand back power to caretaker Prime Minister Pedro the initiatives will cost money. The plan Trade Unions. Sánchez has never been Sánchez said that he wouldn’t to pay for them is, unsurprisingly, to raise particularly sympathetic to business, and sleep at night at the thought of Ministers taxes and the favourite banker of all new Podemos is openly hostile. But they’ll from far-left Podemos in charge of any Governments, the fight against fraud. need to create private sector jobs to key Ministry, his options for forming Governments always underestimate the finance their plans. a Government seemed limited. But costs of their plans and are always overly The coalition wants science to be the Sánchez is nothing if not persistent, and optimistic about expected tax revenues. driver of economic growth. Spain’s overcoming his worries of insomnia, Part of the funding will come from the universities are far behind their peers in he not only signed up to a coalition very same self-employed they have Europe when it comes to partnering with government with Pablo Iglesias, the man pledged to help, as National Insurance business, and to change that business has he had called ‘’untrustworthy’, but also contributions will be linked to income. to be embraced as a positive force, not as made him one of four deputy PM’s. That might seem fair, but increasing tax the enemy. The last couple of years have been fairly on them is an odd way of supporting The plans to regulate rent increases are tumultuous politically, with the failed them. Raising income tax on the rich may unlikely to have an overall positive effect, independence attempt in Catalonia, the be popular, but won’t be enough – the top while having a dig at the Utilities for unseating of Rajoy by a no-confidence 3.75% of earners already contribute 31% of abusive profits is simply demagoguery. vote, two successive elections and a long income tax. Sanchez will almost certainly If it really cared for consumers, the period of caretaker Government. The at some stage need to widen the net to Government could easily lower electricity economy has shown resilience, however, middle earners. prices by reducing the more than 50% of and continued to post relatively robust With pensioners, Sánchez wants to protect taxes that make up an average bill. growth, although is now showing signs of their spending power and to scrap the The agreement is full of special slowing. ‘sustainability factor’ introduced by his commissions and five year plans, many Now Sánchez has a functioning executive, own party under Zapatero, which adjusts, with dubious benefits, but unlimited scope he needs to get to grips with a variety of (i.e. reduces) pensions as life expectancy for appointing friends. The National structural problems. Unemployment is at increases. Interestingly, the new Social Fund for Social Entrepreneurship sounds 14% and youth unemployment a dismal Security Minister, Jose Luis Escrivá, more like a way of channeling funds to 31%. Low wages and limited job and advocated raising the retirement age in like-minded organisations than a way career prospects have led to an exodus his former role as head of the Independent of stimulating business. Encouraging of young people, mostly highly qualified. Authority for Fiscal Responsibility. He people to buy local food is on message, And then there’s the issue of pensions. might have to keep that one under his belt. but might need some explaining to the The Coalition agreement signed with Spain’s pensions are generous in European producers from Murcia or Almería who Podemos sheds some light on the new terms, especially for those who have export throughout Europe, in big diesel- administration’s economic thinking. It contributed throughout their working fueled lorries. And the up-front pledge to wants to support small and medium life. But that has to be paid for, and its use public money to stop de-localization businesses, and the self-employed; fight pension spending as a percentage of GDP seems like an invitation for Multinationals against the precariousness of the labour is higher than both Germany and the UK, to get the begging bowl out. market, especially for the young; and swallowing up 41% of the budget. The So the next couple of years will see friction promote well-paid, stable employment. total cost has tripled in two decades. between the new government’s intentions Rural depopulation, high rents and That would suggest the need for a serious and its ability to deliver. Bear in mind homelessness are other targets for action. debate about how to finance the system, that the coalition doesn’t have a majority In a nod to Brussels, it even speaks of the but somehow the pension argument brings – it will rely on a mixed bag of nationalist need to keep the budget deficit under out the worst demagoguery among the and regionalist parties to get any law control. parties. With a rapidly ageing population, through. With debt at nearly 100% of Much of this is worthy stuff; what isn’t so maintaining the current benefits will be GDP and a vigilant EU policing the deficit, clear is whether the measures they have drag on the economy and on the prospects there’s little wriggle room should hard announced will actually work. of future generations. times arrive. And given that the global Let’s start with budgetary restraint. In The coalition agreement contains some political and trade outlook can sometimes a highly de-centralised state like Spain, worthy intentions; the problem is that depend on a tweet from @POTUS, that can expanding the Central government to 20 the actions outlined may not have the never be discounted. ministries and naming four deputy PMs intended effect. For example, if you doesn’t exactly signal a genuine vocation want to promote stable employment, Roger Pike www.whadvisers.com Follow us on Twitter @Whadvisers for Spain-related business news 4 January /February 2020 The Madrid Metropolitan

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Whats OnA roundup of the best of what on in the capital in the cold winter months. History What: Tutankhamon & his buried treasures Where: IFEMA - Feria de Madrid When: Until 19th April Why: The valley of the kings comes to Madrid. How: http:// tutankhamon laexposicion.es/ Exhibition Exhibition ART What:Auschwitz – Birkenau – a What: Maestros del Vintage – What: Al Andalus – through art in photo exhibition photographs of old Spain metal Where: Centro Sefarad – Israel, Calle Where: Blanca Berlín Galería, Calle Mayor, 69 del Limón, 28 Where: Museo Arqueológico Nacional When: Until 27th March When: Until 29th February When: Until 26th April Why: 36 photographs taken in the Why: Vintage photos of some of the Why: Islamic art in metal form giving camp by Juan Pedro Revuelta – on best photographs depciting Spanish us a glimpse of Moorish Spain which this 75th anniversary of the liberation life in the twentieth century. was to have a lasting if not always of its few surviving prisoners. How: https://www. appreciated legacy in the country. How: http://www.sefarad-israel.es/ blancaberlingaleria.com/portfolios/ AuschwitzBirkenau_Fotografias_de_ todo-cuanto-sueno-o-pierdo-maestros- How: http://www.man.es/man/ Juan_Pedro_Revuelta del-vintage/ exposicion/exposiciones-temporales/ artes-metal.html Exhibition What: Around The World Where: Biblioteca Nacional, Paseo de Recoletos, 20 When: 16th April Why: An exhibition celebrating the early European explorers epic journeys circumnavigating our world How: http:// www.bne.es/ es/Actividades/ Exposiciones/ Exposiciones/ Exposiciones2019/ magallanes-y-elcano. html 6 January /February 2020 The Madrid Metropolitan

Entertainment What: The Keys Of The Kingdom - Hassan Khan Where: Palacio de Cristal , Retiro Park When: Until 1st March Why: The extradordinary art of Hassan Khan is brough together in this exhibition of music, performance, images, sculptures and abstract concepts. How: https://www. museoreinasofia.es/ exposiciones/hassan-khan History Entertainment Fashion What: “ Queenmania” Queen – A What: Gastrofestival 2020 What: Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week tribute Where: Throughout Madrid ( see Madrid Where: Teatro Calderón, Atocha, 18 website) Where: IFEMA - Feria de Madrid When: 1st March When: 7th – 2rd February When: 28th January – 2nd February Why: A family show geared to those Why: Some of the best dishes, Why: The best of Spanish design & parents that need to show their kids culinary delights and gastro fashion – a glimmer of things to come what it was all about experiences you can have. for next season. How: http://www.butacaoro.com/es/ ER000874/QUEENMANIA How: https://www. How: http://mbfwmadrid.ifema.es/ gastrofestivalmadrid.com Entertainment Entertainment What: Game of Thrones Where: Espacio 5.1 - IFEMA What: Perez – AKA Ratoncito Where: Teatro Infanta When: Until 15th March Isabel, Barquillo, 24 When: Until 23rd February Why: The biggest exhibition of it´s genre in Spain. See the Why: A treat for the kids to see Ratoncito perez himself sets, costumes and meet some of the actors. How: https://www.teatroinfantaisabel.es/obra/perez-el- ratoncito-no-nace-se-hace/ How: http://juegodetronoslaexposicion.es/ History What: “Clicks” – Playmobil Where: Palacio de Gaviria When: Until 1st March Why: Come lose yourself in a journey through history each with its own mini world´s recreated. How: https://palaciodegaviriamadrid. com/ The Madrid Metropolitan January /February 2020 7

New Books for a New Year Ten brand new books for children, teens and adults to put on your reading list for 2020 Greta and the Giants Cornelia and the Jungle Shadowsea by Peter The Mirror and the Light by Zoe Tucker and Zoe Machine by Nora Brech Bunzl by Hilary Mantel Persico Cornelia has moved into a The fourth book in the The final book in the Booker Greta lives in a beautiful new house with her parents Cogheart adventure series, Prize winning trilogy is due to forest which is being - it’s enormous and weird featuring Lily, the girl with be released in March 2020 destroyed by Giants. Luckily and she’s not happy about it. the clockwork heart. A well and will chronicle the final she has a plan to help the That is, until she goes outside written and action-packed years of Oliver Cromwell. animals whose home is being to explore and meets a boy story which can stand alone This eagerly awaited novel is threatened. This picture book in a treehouse who has an or be read as part of the set to be one of the biggest is inspired by Nobel Peace invention which can transport series. Recommended for bestsellers of the year. Prize nominee and climate them to amazing adventures readers aged 9 years and change protester Greta - The Jungle Machine. This upwards. Thunberg, and explains book has stunning artwork environmental issues in an and is a celebration of the accessible way for young power of imagination. children. Argh! There’s a skeleton The Missing by Michael A Sprinkle of Sorcery by The Lying Life of Adults inside you! By Idan Rosen Michelle Harrison by Elena Ferrante Ben-Barak and Julian Frost A personal and heart By the author of A This novel was published breaking story about the Pinch of Magic, this is in Italy last year and will Quog and Oort are two alien author’s search for his another adventure for be released in English in friends on their way to a missing great uncles and the Widdershins sisters: June 2020. Elena Ferrante birthday party when their aunts. The impact of the Betty, Fliss and Charlie. is the author of the hugely spaceship breaks down. Holocaust on one family is When one of the sisters successful Neapolitan novels, Unfortunately Oort is a gas described thoughtfully and goes missing, they need to and this is her first new cloud, and Quog is a jelly sensitively, and the book journey to a secret island work since 2014. This book blob, so they need your also contains poetry by the that doesn’t exist on any promises to have all the help to fix the spaceship by author and a selection of map. A captivating story ingredients of her previous using your bones, muscles further reading on World recommended for ages 8+ novels, set in Naples with a and nervous system to push War Two, the Holocaust and focus on class, friendship and pages, lift the book and the theme of refugees and the passions and conflicts of even turn a page with your displacement. For readers adolescence. eyes closed. A very funny aged 10+. introduction to anatomy for young readers. 8 January /February 2020 The Madrid Metropolitan

Under the Great Plum Books Tree by Sufiya Ahmed and Reza Dalvand Unbelievable Football by Matt Oldfield A beautiful and vibrantly illustrated book based on the The most bizarre, Panchatantra, an ancient entertaining and of course collection of Indian animal unbelievable (but true!) fables. This touching tale of stories ever told about friendship between a monkey football. If you have a and a crocodile is ideal for reluctant reader who is readers aged 6-9. passionate about football, this book might just get them hooked. Katharine has spent the last 15 years developing teaching projects and programmes for encouraging reading in English in schools and libraries all over Spain. She is the founder of La Hora del Cuento, a storytelling and theatre company specialised in English activities in schools. She is also the director of Glow Learning, a book distributor which provides a consultancy service to the education sector for English language books and resources. She is passionate about children’s literature, travel and tapas, and is the mum of two bilingual children. • English Speaking Tours • Transfer & Travel in Madrid +34 619 858 399 | [email protected] www.iberianchauffeur.com With Care, You Prosper Speak to Chris on +34 639 118185 | [email protected] | www.spectrum-ifa.com “The Spectrum IFA Group” is a registered trademark, exclusive rights to use in Spain granted to: Baskerville Advisers S.L. | CIF B-63/137.020 | Correduría de Seguros; No de registro RDGS J2306; Paseo de Gracia 63, principal, 2a, 08008, Barcelona | Seguro responsabilidad civil AIG Europe No0131900503.1330 | Registro Mercantil de Barcelona,Tomo 35489, Folio 170, Seccion 8, Hoja B-269534 The Madrid Metropolitan January /February 2020 9

HEALTH & WELLBEING “We are clear that only by providing the best medical and healthcare quality to the Over 30,000 international community can we win their international trust” Betting on the best professionals, the patients have latest technology and an excellent care, are for many of them, the key to select us. In solved their this process, we also focus on the medical health problems team, both the patient’s local and the HM Hospital’s own, making it easier for them thanks to the to follow up on any medical assistance International (appointments, transfers, repatriations, scheduled surgeries, etc.), management Patient with their international insurers or Department at processing any type of payment. This cohesive service allows the patient to leave HM Hospitals. the hospital not only with excellent medical care but also with the satisfaction of having HM Hospitales received personalized, comprehensive and Delivers More efficient assistance, “adds Casquero. In the last year, an international program M any of the foreigners who visit our de Compostela since its incorporation to has been launched to improve and expand country do not know how to do HM Hospitals. medical tourism and to meet the increasing well in a hospital, either because As well as that, there are two prestigious demand of patients who, attracted by our they do not know the functioning of the hospitals in Barcelona. HM Delfos and HM hospitals’ excellent medical quality, wish Spanish healthcare system or because they Nens, this latter paediatric. to come to Spain to be treated. “This has do not speak the language. Javier Casquero, Director of the meant a substantial increase in the number To help the international community, HM International Patient Department, explains of medical applications and therapies Hospitales has the International Patient that more than 30,000 foreign patients, conducted on foreign patients by oncology Department located in the hospitals of the from more than 30 nationalities, have been programs, traumatology, cardiology, and Community of Madrid: HM Madrid, HM treated since it was launched in 2012, being neurology as well as by the central services Sanchinarro, HM Monteprincipe, and HM the most frequent patients from the United of obesity and unique medical prevention Vallés, which aims to meet the healthcare States and the Arab countries. Through an programs,” says Javier Casquero. needs of foreign patients in the Community integrated, multilingual and personalized In HM Hospitals all our centres operate as of Madrid whether tourists, expatriates service, we help manage any health an interconnected health care network, (students, workers or diplomats), or those problem in an easy, fast, efficient and, most which guarantees that our patients, that fall into the category of medical importantly, without any language barrier. wherever they are, they experience the tourism. same quality in their care and the same In particular, it has specific staff to meet treatment procedures. This network the needs of the diplomatic corps, who structure is particularly important for wish to access Hm Hospitals and their Oncology, Cardiology, Neurosciences and prestigious medical teams. Fertility, skilled therapeutic areas for the This department is also present in the Group. Galician Community with HM Modelo and 17 Hospitals and 4 Major Prestige Centres. HM Belén in A Coruña and also with HM HM CIOCC, HM CIEC, HM CINAC, and Rosaleda and HM La Esperanza in Santiago FERTILITY CENTER. The HM Sanchinarro University Hospital continues for another year as a third-best private hospital in Spain, in the MERKO 2019 ranking. By 2020 we will have been in service to the patient for more than 30 years. Every International patient or community applicant interested in learning about these free services should come to our Department whether through international policies, travel insurance or privately. The contact e-mail is international@ hmhospitales.com and telephone numbers (+ 34) 914 452 126 / (+34) 629 823 493 10 NOVember / DECEMber 2019 The Madrid Metropolitan

Sports We talk to Madrid Cricket Club President John Woodward about the highs and lows of playing cricket in Spain Cricket in Madrid How did Madrid CC first start? Lewis where we deliver cricket equipment Photos: Elliot Pigott I moved to Majorca when I was 22 and to camps and run 2 days of cricket then to Madrid in 2001, where halfway sessions, nets and mini tournaments. meaning no diving to stop a ball if you through my first year I saw an ad from a want to leave a match uninjured! It can guy called Tom looking for someone for a What are the main differences hit over 40 degrees during summer games knock around. Only 2 of us answered so at between playing a game in England so it is important to take lots of umbrellas first it was just 3 of us knocking a tennis and in Spain? and some members have to pile on the ball about on a basketball court near If you play a home fixture in England you suncream more than others. Estrella. However every month a couple would normally leave your house and more people joined and within a year travel down the road to your home ground. What are your hopes for the future of we had enough people to start training In Spain it takes 2 weeks to organise the club? properly. We made an agreement with the everything and we drive 4½ hours to our The clubs biggest dream is to have our British Council school in Pozuelo to use home ground in La Manga. We stay in a own ground as so far we have survived their astro turf pitch where we stayed for a hotel for the weekend costing about 150 19 years without one. If we managed to few years. We actually refounded the club euros per player and play a game on the secure a permanent ground cricket would as it started in the 60s but had disbanded Saturday and Sunday meaning a 900 km take off in Madrid- we have the money a few times. We kept the club name but round trip. There is one ground closer to saved to put a pitch down but we need started from scratch, designing a new logo Madrid but it has no fences, bad facilities to find a piece of land. If this happened and buying all new kit. and weeds and screws on the outfield in the first year we could have a Madrid league and Kids cricket would expand as What reaction does cricket get from we could offer schools trips to the ground. Spanish people? Madrid is the key to open cricket in Spain When we first started people would just and so it is also important to get the sport stop and stare and think what the hell are Federated. they doing and just walk off. Some would This year also sees the second year of the come up and ask what we were doing but European Cricket League which is great in the start Spanish people didn’t really publicity for Spanish cricket, having been want to get involved. However we now watched by 140 million people last year. have Spanish members in the club and Madrid CC membership is 100 euros a players from 14 other Nationalities. If you year which includes all training sessions say you play cricket Spanish people think and use of equipment, public liability you mean croquet or they start asking insurance, membership to Cricket Espana about horses thinking it´s Polo. I tell them and all socials that the most similar sport, although www.cricketinmadrid/mcc nothing like it, is baseball and usually show them pictures for clarification. When we started it took us 5 years to get cricket official recognised as a sport as it was classified as a hobby, even though it is the second largest sport in the world. What type of things does the club do throughout the year? We play in 3 leagues- the Madrid league that in mainly about getting people to play, the ECCL Division 1, where we play against teams on the coast and the ECCL T20 League.We offer many social activities throughout the year including bowling and darts nights and run weekly training sessions in fixed nets. We also run a Kids club and are currently setting up a womans team. For 12 years we have organised charity tournaments supporting UNICEF, The Theodora Foundation and for the last 3 years refugees in Serbia. I travel to Serbia annually with club vice president The Madrid Metropolitan January /February 2020 11

FOOD ExperGieanscteros with Catalina Brennan Hello all!! together for a couple more minutes until your vegetables, well cooked, lamb chops, lentejas, For this issue, we kitchen smells like you are in Spanish heaven… liver, red mullets, perfectly fried and a variety Fry an egg, add some grapes for freshness, pour of traditional Spanish cooking, including callos are going very some tinto and share with someone who you and the famous migas, which I already told you traditional. To love. about. one of Madrid´s Here you will find “quintos or botellines” of A ***** Mahou Clásica (Madrid´s best beer!) in 20cl, historical s a Chef and foodie, I like to discover new chilled, and you can always ask Angel for a restaurants and restaurants, talk to Chefs and try out new Vermú (with seltz and a dash of gin). dishes and ingredients, which I will share gladly the recipe of with you every month! N ***** Migas machegas, ow, let me tell you about our traveling Spanish authentic Casa de comidas El Comunista foodies club. We are a group of like-minded Calle de Augusto Figueroa, 35, 28004 Madrid people, who try out new places, meet Chefs, in cooking. This restaurant is part of the history of Madrid. Madrid and abroad, cook with them, shop in Established in 1890, as a wine shop, it is in the their markets and indulge in great wines and T his dish is highly caloric and extremely 50´s when it becomes a Casa de Comidas. food. Our last trip was to Rías Baixas, in Galicia, cheap (and simple!), perfectly designed Entering el Comunista is like walking into the land of Albariño wine and the best seafood. for winter and “la cuesta de enero” (no another dimension, a different age where our This picture is from our special tasting menu money left after Xmas!). It should always be writers (Azorín, Machado, Benavente, Alberti) in Maruja Limón, in Vigo. Michelin star, top accompanied with a glass (or 2…) of vino tinto, held literary evenings over wines (lots…) and service, beautiful food with wine pairing, and which will help digest the fat. Water, coke is played cards, the popular “Mus”. lots of laughs! heresy…please Legend says it´s called “El Comunista” because of the members of the Casa del Pueblo, in nearby Our next trips, 15th to 23rd February: Migas manchegas calle Piamonte, who made it their second home Tokyo!!!!(fully booked) 13th to 15th March: Ingredients: and also communist militants in the 70´s who Dénia (Alicante) THE gastronomical city in 500 grs of old bread (the better the bread, the met secretly inside its´ walls. Alicante, paella workshop, wineries, tapas, and better the dish…) 2 fresh chorizos It´s located in Chueca, between gastrobars an amazing tasting menu, exclusive for the 100 grs of panceta 1 choricero pepper (long and such, which makes it even more appealing. Club (and lots of laughs…) More info:https:// dry red pepper) ask in the shop! Here you will find home cooking with seasonal chefinhousecatalina.com/club-de-foodies- products, at the best price and good customer viajeros/For cookery workshops, corporate 5 cloves of garlic (mashed with skin) service. events, showcookings, or personal Chef Extra virgin olive oil The place is now run by Carmen & Angel, experiences:www.chefinhousecatalina.com White grapes mother and son, and fourth generation, Optional: a beautiful fried egg will give it the descendants from the original owners. Carmen [email protected] + 34 606 99 1073 perfect touch runs the kitchen; her menu includes lots of Follow me in ig & fb @chefinhousecatalina @clubdefoodiesviajeros Firstly, we have to “mince” the bread with our fingers, into crumbs, and add some salty water for it to hydrate (not soak…) It´s best if you do it on top of a clean kitchen cloth; add the water to the bread, then fold the cloth and turn it over a couple of times, so it will distribute the humidity thoroughly. This has to rest for 2 hours. Meanwhile, cut the chorizo and panceta in small pieces, and fry, first panceta, 5 mins later, the chorizo. Chop the choricero pepper, no stem and no seeds, and mix inside the pan. Set aside the result in a bowl and add some clean oil to the pan. Fry the garlic cloves, mashed and with skin until golden. Add the bread and stir with a wooden spoon, so it will get all the flavours. We´re nearly there! Just missing the mixture of chorizo and panceta. Let it cook 12 January /February 2020 The Madrid Metropolitan

WINE REPORT Upcoming Spanish regional wines Four regions you need to to be drinking in 2020! New year, new you, right? Wrong. red, not just the skins) flourish here. The - usually Mencia-based - reds burst Dry January is an abomination and They can produce some of the most with red fruits, spices, and flowers. In the obsession with getting fit at concentrated and high alcohol wines in summertime if you slightly chill them the start of the new year is wonderfully the country. They are about as subtle as a they’re even more refreshing! The whites unhealthy. You’ll join a gym, cut carbs, brick through a window, but my goodness centre around the Galician classics forgo drinking too much, learn to hate if they aren’t tasty. These are winter wines. Albariño, Godello, and Treixadura and salad and watch as other people have a Having said that there are some easy others. great time. drinking styles too, especially the less Ribeira Sacra is a multi-faceted world for Of course we all need to live a little more common whites and rosés. winemakers. The steep, snaking riverbanks healthily, but moderation is the key, not We would like to highlight a couple of offer up a multitude of different aspects, cutting out entirely. So, perhaps ditch cracking producers. Alaya Tierra (24.50€) altitudes and soils. It’s a difficult place the Rioja binges and endless strings of is a 16 percent alcohol beast and wins to cultivate grapes, but the results are indiscriminate Verdejo and instead focus boldest-in-shop award, but the little sister fabulous. on finding some new things. Not only Atalaya del Camino (11.50€) is a belter Our favourites in the shop are A Fuga will these force you to respect what’s in too. The project by Rodriguez de Vera is blanco (11.80€) y tinto (11.50€), Pekado your glass more - instead of just casually also great with Jumenta (7.50€) and 100% Mortal Mencía (12€), and Massimo glugging it back without a second thought Petit Verdot Sorrasca (20.50€) being the (10.50€). - but it will also show you a few more of two we’ve selected. And a shout out the the amazing regions that are slowly but the very good value 1707 Chardonnay (7€) Arribes del Duero surely starting to become more widely from Hacienda el Espino! available. Though there are far more famous regions Ribeira Sacra on the legendary wine-river the Duero, Alicante Arribes is a real rising star, offering both Leaving the hot Spanish plains and heavy fascinating low-intervention wines by tiny Alicante (and also neighbouring Valencia) wines behind, it’s time for something more micro-producers as well as some unknown is fast becoming one of our favourite DOs. breezy and elegant, but no less yummy. local varieties. If you mention it to most foreigners they’ll Galicia, my favourite part of Spain, is Not dissimilar visually to Ribeira Sacra, probably think of beaches, sunburned home to arguably the country’s most this is a steep river valley wedged in a tourists, and paella. Not wine. What may successful white wines. But they have Natural Park. A place of remote villages surprise people is that it one of Spain’s some lovely reds too. Perfect for summer near the border with Portugal, DO Arribes oldest wine regions. It has been a DO since - the wines are lighter thanks to the is home to a couple of indigenous grape 1932! region’s cooler climate - the reds of Ribeira that make for fascinating wines: Bruñal There are quite a few permitted varieties Sacra are those we find to be the most and Juan Garcia for the reds and Doña allowed in the DO, but for our money, interesting and reliable. Blanca for the whites. The wines are often and yours, the best reds are made from mineral and bold, but not as heavy as Monastrell and Merlot and the whites other Duero zones. that really interest us are the Moscatel, Also something that’s always interesting Chardonnay and local Mersegueras. to us is the presence of winemakers Alicante is one of the country’s best value essentially toiling difficult and ancient regions. You get a lot of bang for you parts of the country and trying to make buck: big aromas, big body, big booze, big the purest wines possible in what is not character, small prices. What’s not to like? unlike what normal parlance would call a There’s also one of the country’s legendary shed. wines hiding away: Fondillón - an aged If you’re keen we have Sin Blanca (15.50€), semi-sweet sherry style wine. Pirita (16.50€) and Vaélico (14.30€) in the Some examples at ours include: Salzé reds and a lovely white called Otro Cuento (10.80€), Caterina (11.80€), for the reds (14.50€). and Marisquero (6.50€) for the whites. Also we have the Laudum Fondillón from So leave those classics behind for a while 1988 (35€). and start 2020 with something completely new! Remember new year, new you. Almansa Not too far from Mediterranean Alicante you can find Almansa - a hot and arid DO wedged between some scruffy hills in the depths of southeast La Mancha. This is another region that is going to give you some big wines. And when I say big I mean very big. Monastrell and Garnacha Tintotera (a teinturier grape, which means the liquid and flesh inside the grape is also The Madrid Metropolitan January /February 2020 13

hidden madrid Every Sunday morning until midday, the center of Madrid closes some of its streets to vehicular traffic. Among these is the Ribera de Curtidores (Strand of the Leather Tanners) where a huge flea market springs up which spills out into all the side streets around it. Here you can buy anything and everything choosing from a bewildering jumble ranging from authentic junk to expensive Theantiques. Rastro: A Flea Market for All Tastes The array includes handicrafts, sunglasses, T-shirts, clothing and conceivable type of olives, pickles, old clothes, sunglasses, army leather goods. Here too you will come gherkins, tiny onions and pickled surplus, leather goods, furniture, to the time-honored Casa Amadeo eggplants (aubergines), which are sold hardware, vinyl records, sporting (Plaza de Cascorro 18) famous for its by weight. Most of the customers buy goods, Blu-rays, DVDs, and CDs, pets, caracoles (snail stew), for the crowds olives served in a plastic cup and eat rocks, back-issue magazines, and a of people pushing in for a tidbit and them as they walk around the market. huge spectrum of seemingly useless for its owner, Amadeo, who is apt to scold you for not sopping up the sauce Continuing down the Calle de las household debris. from the snail stew on your plate with Amazones, you come to the Plaza del a piece of bread. General Vara de Rey, the site of one of This flea market is known as “El the most popular outdoor emporiums Rastro” which literally means “the trail” Further down on the left side, the in the market, where a large selection and refers to a trail in blood. Long ago, street is lined with modern furniture of minerals, fossils, shoes, paintings, the Plaza General Vara de Rey, off the shops, while on the right there are coins and clothing, as well as a few Ribera de Curtidores, was the site of a rows of sporting goods outlets. Turning records and books are on sale. Several slaughterhouse. It was from here, once into a side street on the right, the Calle of the stands are run by gitanos the animals were killed, that the offal de las Amazonas, will bring you to (gypsies) that sell “antiquities” such as was dragged off to loading wagons, other “classic” eateries in the market. old irons, heavy old-style keys, grilles leaving a visible trail of blood on the Following the whiff of frying fish, and tools. ground. This eventually gave rise to you’ll come to the Bar Santurce, an the name “El Rastro”, or The Trail. old stand-by which has been serving Returning to the Ribera, on the left- fresh grilled sardines for more than hand side, you’ll come to the Calle The Rastro can be divided into 40 years. On Sundays the place is de San Cayetano which specializes in different areas, each of which jam-packed, but what sardines! Next original paintings, art reproductions specializes –more or less– in a certain door is Aceitunas Jiménez, which we and etchings. Then, a few steps further kind of merchandise. In the upper might call the “Mecca of the Pickles”. down the Ribera, on the left, beckons reaches of the Ribera de Curtidores, Here you will find an array of jars, the Calle de Fray Ceferino González, around the Plaza de Cascorro, cans and receptacles containing every known popularly as the “Calle de los you’ll tend to find a riot of outdoor Pajaritos” (Street of the Birdies). Not so stands mostly selling arts and crafts, 14 January /February 2020 The Madrid Metropolitan

long ago, all sorts of domestic animals, birds, specializing in Spanish singing leads into a sprawling square, the Plaza especially birds, could be bought canaries, and has won several prizes de Campillo del Mundo Nuevo, a good from street vendors there, who hung for its specimens. place to browse for magazines, books, cages at their entrances containing comics and movies on Blu-ray or DVD. birds, hamsters and guinea pigs. But Those seeking high quality artifacts the practice has now been outlawed. and authentic antiques should head If you’re put off by modern computers Presently, the animals can only be sold to the two indoor “galleries” halfway and electronics and have a soft spot by licensed outlets. Hence the shops down the Ribera de Curtidores, one for vintage office equipment such as now sell cages, fishing equipment, on the left, called the Galerías Piquer, typewriters, adding machines and animal food, dog collars and other at Number 29, and another on the roll top desks, head up to the Calle items you might find in a pet shop. right, the Nuevas Galerías, at Number de la Arganzuela that leads out of 12. Each features two floors of shops the Campillo del Mundo Nuevo, and On the same street, at Number 10, you arranged around a large courtyard and at Number 39 you’ll come to the come to Naturaves Mundo Azul, which are crammed with a wide variety of Antigüedades de Oficina. But this is is well worth a stop. It sells all sorts collectibles. Other antique shops are only the first of the three shops worth of birds that range from parakeets to located on the Plaza Vara de Rey and looking at in this street. Walking a few partridges and even huge macaws. the surrounding side streets. steps further up that street is another Naturaves also breeds their own shop for the nostalgia-minded called It is in the Rastro that you’ll sometimes El Museo del Teléfono Antiguo which still see people chewing on what specializes in antique telephones, appears to be a stick from a tree. What gramophones and radios. Inside is in fact they have in their mouths is an amazing range of old phones, all popularly called palulú, the root of the crammed into the small shop. shrub from which licorice is extracted. As you chew and suck on it, the root The last stop a bit further up the street, gives off its licorice taste. At the time is Coleccionismo Militar Arganzuela. of writing, there is a tiny shop selling Upon entering this store you feel the palulú on the Calle de Mira el you’ve been transported back in time Sol, off to the right from Ribera de to an old museum of the past century. Curtidores, on which street you’ll also You are engulfed by old wooden and come to a number of stands hawking glass display cabinets filled with hardware equipment. The street then military items and paraphernalia, all carefully and tastefully arranged. Discover more of the capital's secret gems If you’ve succumbed to the fashion Hidden Madrid is on sale among collectors and decorators for at all major bookshops furniture from the 1950’s and 1960’s, in Madrid, including El a few shops specializing in this genre Corte Inglés, FNAC and the have sprung up in la Rastro. Such, for Casa de Libro. These and example, as the huge IKB 191 on Calle hundreds of other books de la Arganzuela 18 (across from the about Madrid are also Callejón del Mellizo) and El 8 on the available at the publisher´s Calle de Mira el Rio Alta 8. bookshop, Ediciones La Libreria, located on the Finally, in case you haven’t been Calle Mayor 80. forewarned elsewhere, be on the q.t. for pickpockets, who infest the area. Our personal recommendation is to leave your wallet and valuables in your hotel safe the morning you visit the Rastro. The best time to go is around 11 a.m., or earlier, on a Sunday morning, before the crowds get really thick. The Madrid Metropolitan January /February 2020 15

Cover Story Abi Lindsay Clark Dani Garcia Goes had the pleasure International of asking the highly acclaimed You achieved your first Michelin star bringing my cuisine to further afield. That, when you were just 25 years old! Tell us I feel, is the biggest achievement… for International chef about that period of your life. people to enjoy my gastronomy. Dani Garcia Well, at that time things really were quite You lived in the USA for a while. How a selection of different to today. It is true that within the did you find that experience and was it world of gastronomy it had its importance an important learning period for you? questions which and on a personal level it was something Everything we do has a learning curve everybody would unique. behind it. Including the mistakes. I love that area and I was very happy during the like to know the With an impressive 3 Michelin stars to time I was there. answers to. date and countless other awards, how I have read that you have huge plans do these make you feel? to open more restaurants both in Spain Happy. Just over two months ago we closed the Dani García Restaurant in order to continue making dreams come true and 16 January /February 2020 The Madrid Metropolitan

and abroad. Can you elaborate on and continue to collaborate in other working on any aspects regarding this? this? programmes such as Masterchef, for Due to work and other commitments, we Yes, just a few weeks ago we opened example. It has been a unique experience, do things to help like the campaign with BIBO in Doha (Qatar). It was the first which, due to agenda issues we have had Mapfre that I mentioned before. I wish we international opening of BIBO. We are very to stop for a while. But I will be happy to could contribute much more to solving happy and excited. We are also working return in the future. these kinds of problems. hard on Leña, a grill restaurant that will be located right where Dani García The programme has a friendly natural Many studies have demonstrated the Restaurant was in Marbella. In addition to feel to it and I especially enjoyed the benefits of the Mediterranean diet. all this, there are other projects such as one when your Mother appeared How would you say this influences your the arrival of BIBO at Malaga airport and by surprise on the show! Would you gastronomic creations? more international projects in Europe and say that she was responsible for your The products of our region are always America. passion for cooking? present in my cuisine. Everything has Yes, totally. I drew inspiration from her an influence, but we always take things Your successful programme on passion and what she taught me along further. Televisión Española 1 ‘Hacer de comer’ with my grandmother. Her cuisine is the started in March last year. How did this basis of mine. Many parents are concerned about project come about? the eating habits of their children. For We receive a lot of proposals every day. You currently have a few restaurants example, what kind of breakfast do Unfortunately, and because of work, in Spain. Do you find it a challenge you give your daughters? projects and the rest, we cannot say yes overseeing each of them? Especially Well, they are grown up and practically to all of them. The TVE proposal arrived given the distance between Madrid have breakfast on their own. I always try just at the exact moment in which I and Marbella. to have healthy products available so they always wanted to make a TV programme Yes, but for this reason I have a team of can eat healthily and have a good diet. of this type, since I have collaborated people who support me and I have total confidence in them. Unfortunately, I can’t As an Andalusian, which dish would you be in all of them every day simply due to love to see as the dish which represents the distance involved. But I try to keep up Spain? with what happens at all times and be able Any gazpacho or gazpachuelo. When to help the team that is in the restaurants I started in the world of haute cuisine, every day in everything they need. nobody dared to incorporate cold soups in their menus. I imagine you spend most of your time in Madrid with your restaurants and Does the Andalusian culture always filming, do you miss your home town a influence your creations? lot? Always. I’m from here and it shows in all No, actually most of the time I am in my dishes. I always try to use products Marbella. It is where my house, my family from my region. and the central part of Grupo Dani García are. At Atelier, I work with my team on When you eat out, which is your changes to the menu and we test new favourite type of food and restaurant? dishes. We all move around the world but And when you cook for yourself, do you the headquarters are in Marbella. Even have a favourite dish? so, while recording the programme I have When I eat it depends on where I am and spent long periods in Madrid. the moment. I really like Japanese cuisine, for example. But I also don’t rule out a Your foundation, Dani Garcia, is good tapas bar. When I am at home, it conducting some impressive and vitally also depends on whether I am cooking for important work. For example, its work myself or for my family. If my daughters regarding healthy eating habits to are at home, I like to make mac & cheese, prevent childhood health issues. Can for example, because they love it. you tell us more about these projects? With the Foundation we mainly want to Dani you have come so very far with help improve the eating habits of very your passion and talent not only as small children. We have campaigned with a brilliant chef but also a business Mapfre in order to help create easy and man. How have you achieved such healthy habits. international status? With work, a lot of work. With many hours Do you feel that it is possible for of effort and dedication. In those hours, healthy, tasty fast food to exist? you sacrifice a lot but little by little you Yes, it is possible. You just have to use end up fulfilling your dreams. your imagination and work hard. Do you find it hard to balance your life Is this something that you feel you as a chef and business man with family have achieved with your MacDonald’s life? Signature hamburger? Yes, it’s hard. But you always try to keep I am fascinated by McDonald’s ability the balance between one thing and the to make a burger that is much lower in other. calories than if you go to the supermarket What advice would you give to a young and make it at home. The meat we use and passionate Chef just starting out? for McDonald’s hamburger is free of To never lose hope and work hard to preservatives and colourings. achieve his or her dreams. The road may not be easy. But there will always be light Here in Spain, over the last few years, at the end of the tunnel. we have seen an increase in child obesity and a distancing from the What is your next goal in life? Mediterranean diet. Is your foundation To take my cuisine to all corners of the world. The Madrid Metropolitan January /February 2020 17

Education Why that mean for our children in terms of giving them bilinguals the “edge” I mentioned earlier. Listening skills are are smarter! profoundly important in today’s world; this group were able to filter out the unnecessary and focus on “One T he practical advantages of being able to what was important a real advantage in a busy or language converse in a language other than our noisy working environment. sets you in own are well documented; the world is Being fluent in two languages may also help to keep a corridor becoming smaller daily and in order to prepare the brain sharper for longer. Researchers from York for life. Two our children for the ever changing job market, University in Canada carried out tests on people languages we must give them every skill possible. The between the ages of 30 and 88.They tested their open every ability to understand another’s culture and vocabulary skills, their non-verbal reasoning ability door along knowing a foreign language apart from your and their reaction time. Half of the volunteers the way.” mother tongue represents a huge advantage came from Canada and spoke only English. The that can distinguish you from “the crowd”. other half came from India and were fluent in both Frank Smith English and Tamil. The researchers discovered that That being said, this article seeks to discuss the people who were fluent in English and Tamil the positive impacts on the brain which can be responded faster than those who were fluent in achieved from learning a second foreign language. just English. They also found that those who were The group in which these benefits are most obvious fluent in two languages rather than just one were is one whose members can be said to be truly sharper mentally. bilingual. From considering this group, we might The researchers went on to suggest that the begin to extrapolate the benefits for the wider bilingual volunteers were much less likely to suffer population. from the mental decline associated with old age; A recent study in the US at Northwestern stating that the bilinguals were more efficient at all University monitored the responses to sounds ages tested and showed a slower rate of decline for of 48 volunteers, half of whom were bilingual. some processes with aging. Researchers concluded that speaking two So in this 2nd study we have identified benefits languages profoundly affects the brain and can accruing to this bilingual group, which included even alter the nervous system’s responses to better vocabulary skills, increased reasoning sound .The study found that against backgrounds abilities, improved reaction times and a slower of noisy chatter, the bilingual group could tune aging process in some faculties which when added in better to the speaker’s voice and block out the to the improved listening ability and improved background noise. The differences in response brain stem responses from the first study make an were also reflected in the brainstem responses of impressive list indeed. To me, they begin to sound the bilingual volunteers. Interesting but what does like just the sort of benefits we would want for our children to set them above the competition in the current difficult job market. Of course, the link between bilingualism and the acquisition of a second foreign language is a not proven as yet; but it is certainly food for thought. So let’s pursue that line a little further; what scientific evidence can be found for the benefits of acquiring a second and third language in adolescence as our pupils currently do? A study published in 2010 reveals that knowledge of a second language whenever it is learned can and does affect how people read in their native tongue. The findings suggest that after learning a second language, people never look at words the same way again. Psychologists in Belgium, studied 45 native Dutch- speaking students who had learned English at age 14 or 15. They asked the participants to read a number of Dutch sentences, some of which included cognates—such as “sport,” which means exactly the same in both Dutch and English. Volunteers read other sen¬tences containing only noncognate words in Dutch. They recorded the participants’ eye move¬ments as they read. They noted that the subjects spent, on average, less time reading cognate words than control words, which suggests that their brains processed the dual-language words more quickly; concluding that becoming a bilingual changes one of people’s most automatic skills. From our perspective, this study adds another skill to those previously detailed; the study of another language seems to have a positive effect on a young person’s ability to “decode” an essential indication of reading ability. Finally, and perhaps equally importantly, in the words of Tim Hands, Head of Magdalen College School Oxford, “the very best way to learn about one’s own language is to learn another”. In conclusion, the benefits of bilingualism are well documented and we can see how some of them might impact on the more general population. It seems folly to ignore such potential advantages for our children; we should develop their grasp of another language as early as possible so that as many of the advantages accessed by bilinguals as possible can be accessed by them too. Sarah Ebery, Headmistress at TEMS 18 January /February 2020 The Madrid Metropolitan

WHERE CRAFT BEER MEETS ORGANIC URBAN AMERICAN FOOD I WENT TO THE VILLAGE TAP ROOM & ALL I GOT WAS A 19 CHOICE OF 24 ON-TAP CRAFT BEERS & GOOD LOCAL FOOD thevillagetaproom.com Calle de Martín de los Heros 28, 28008 Madrid, 915 595 785 The Madrid Metropolitan January /February 2020

MADRID SONGS 18 songs you need to know! Songs About Madrid T ony Bennett left his heart in San ‘Calles de Madrid’ by protests in the 60s, and la movida. Francisco, New York was so good Quique González and A nice 1980s beat makes this work they named it twice, and if you Rebeca Jiménez surprisingly well, and certainly more say the sun doesn’t shine, Ralph McTell than a song about London’s Marble will walk you through the streets of ‘Streets of Madrid, Saturday night, you Arch ever could or will. London to show you something that have enough not to sleep’ begins this will make you change your mind. Songs lament, and it’s a sentiment anyone ‘Los Nardos’ by Sara and cities seemed inextricably linked, who has visited the city will no doubt Montiel yet no immediate hit comes to mind share. González is a prolific singer/ for Spain’s capital city. However, songs songwriter, who has often shunned Also known as Por la calle de Alcalá, about Madrid exist. Plenty of them. big recording labels for independence. this pasodoble comes from the musical We know. We researched them and we This track comes from his album Las leandras, and has been recorded by listened. Some of the of the listening Kamikazes Enamorados, and his many artists, with this selected version was pleasant; some of it wasn’t very style here sounds very much like the from the 1961 movie Pecado de amor. pleasant at all. You can draw your morning after the night before. Nardos are flowers – tuberoses or own conclusions by checking out this spikenards in English – and the lyrics month’s selection. All lyrics are in ‘El cielo de Madrid’ by start, ‘In calle Alcalá, with a starched Spanish unless stated otherwise. Deluxe skirt, and tuberoses supported on the hip…’. They don’t make them like this ‘Aqui no hay playa’ by The Deluxe is actually Xoel López, an anymore. Refrescos alternative rock/folk rock musician, and his 2008 track ‘The Sky of Madrid’ has ‘Km.0’ by Ismael Serrano Released in 1989, this is a Ska-style an admirable poetic style. ‘Across the track, ‘There’s no beach here’, which city, in an even darker place, spiders This song was nominated for a Goya promotes all the positives about wait in their web for a lost butterfly award (Best Original Song) in 2000, and Madrid in comparison with the one to fall into their trap’ runs one verse comes from the movie of the same title. big negative of the title. This clearly – and it sounds even more poignant The film interconnects the love lives of pre-dates the Manzanares development in Spanish. Perhaps a similarity with 14 different people during one August – albeit some will argue the song title Streets of London from its content, this afternoon around Sol, with km.0 being still rings true. The first verse sums up builds and sounds well. the famous point in the plaza from the sentiment, saying you can have the which distances are measured from Retiro, Casa de Campo, thousands of ‘La puerta de Alcalá’ by the city. In a folk/flamenco style, the cinemas, and so on, but come August… Ana Belén and Victor song touches on lost love and the trials cue the title. It’s very catchy, fun, and Manuel of Madrid, starting with the wonderful hearing it once will put the tune in your line, “Madrid, uninhabited like my head all day. This was the number one best-seller mattress…”, which, trust us, sounds for six weeks in the summer of 1986, much more lyrical in Spanish. ‘Bailando por ahí’ by Juan and focuses on the history of Madrid’s Magan famous gate, referring amongst other ‘Madrid’ by Pereza things to Carlos III, the battle for This 2011 ‘Electro/Latino’ track, by Madrid during the civil war, student At last a little light rock about the city, multi-talented DJ, record producer, from Pereza, whose members - Rubén rapper, and singer Juan Magan hit the Pozo Prats and José Miguel Conejo number one spot in Spain. The title translates, more or less, as ‘Dancing Around’, but even though the Madrid connection is limited by the lines, ‘Yesterday I saw her, dancing around, with her friends on a street in Madrid’, its beat pretty much makes it a winner. Juan Magan has worked with Paulina Rubio, Pitbull and Nelly Furtado amongst a host of others. 20 January /February 2020 The Madrid Metropolitan

Torres – come from Alameda de Osuna. ‘Madrid’ by Burning ‘Madrid’ by Ariel Rot & The This track is from their 2005 album, Cabriolets Animales, and the chorus mentions A 1978 song from Madrid rock group drinking, chatting, laughing, and then Burning’s first album. Burning were Argentine singer Ariel Rot joined with just to emphasize Madrid’s priorities, most prolific in the 80s, and this track The Cabriolets, led by designer and it refers to dancing three times. Small has distinct similarities to the sound model Bimba Bosé, to reinterpret terraces in Antón Martín and a bar in of the Rolling Stones. ‘Oh no, without this famous chotis, which works Tirso de Molina also get a nod, along living in Madrid, you won’t understand remarkably well. A chotis is a form of with Gran Vía and Atocha. ‘You are my it’ starts the chorus, with the most traditional folk music and dance, and favourite corner of Madrid’ declares the poetic line being ‘You’ll have to feel the original version of this song was final chorus line. Madrid’s caresses on your skin, and written by Mexican composer Agustín write with your blood, Madrid you are Lara, who worked prolifically from the ‘Madrid’ by Thalía my woman’. We’ve all been there. 1930s to the 1960s. The reworking was in conjunction with the Ayuntamiento If you haven’t heard of Thalía, where ‘Madrid, Madrid’ by de Madrid, to help promote the city have you been? Not only is she a Hombres G as a tourist destination in 2010. The highly successful and influential video is fun to watch, and was shot Mexican singer, having sold more than One of Spain’s foremost groups, in Gran Vía, which was celebrating its 40 million records worldwide, but she’s particularly in the 1980s, Hombres G’s 100th anniversary at the time. The also won Latin Grammy and Billboard Madrid, Madrid track comes from their second link below shows the original Latin music awards. She released her 1989 album, Voy a pasármelo bien. It’s version, by Agustín Lara himself and first album in 1990, and her Madrid a big band number, which clearly doffs Lola Flores. We love both. number dates from her second, Mundo its hat to ‘New York, New York’, but the de cristal, in 1991. It’s the story of words are strangely more realistic than ‘Musica notturna delle a broken heart, and the selected lyrical, as if several negatives make a strade di Madrid’ by Luigi video has the early 1990s stamped positive. How can you not love a city Boccherini wonderfully on it, from her tight purple tribute song that starts ‘I’m always lycra to her singing into a bunch of asked why people stay here but maybe For classical music lovers, we have flowers. there’s no city that’s better to live in…’, ‘Night music for the streets of Madrid’, not least because of the word ‘maybe’. a string quintet for two violins, ‘Madrid’ by Amaral Later, the lyrics continue, ‘it’s true the two violas and a cello, by Italian stars come out on very rare occasions, composer Luigi Boccherini. If this ‘Madrid wakes up slowly..’ starts this the cars expel fumes like all cities, but sounds strangely familiar yet you pop/folk song from Amaral, one of nobody gives up on taking a stroll…’. have little classical knowledge, it Spain’s best-selling groups, and it then Mind you, there have been some could be because it was used for the continues to poetically describe the improvements since 1989. soundtrack of the 2003 movie, Master atmosphere on a Sunday morning in and Commander. Boccherini spent the Rastro and the diversity of products most of his life in Spain, and died in available, from dolls and shotguns Madrid in 1805. Skip your way home to Bohemian crystal chandeliers. It to this after a long night out, even captures the mood well, but strangely more so if you’re dressed as an 18th the track can’t be found on any of the century dandy. band’s albums – it was part of a 2009 project but never made the cut. ‘Quédate en Madrid’ by Mecano ‘Madrid’ by Dover A beautiful song by Mecano, one of Despite being headed by two Spanish the most successful Spanish bands to sisters – Christina and Amparo Llanos - date, from their 1988 album Descanso Dover record almost entirely in English. Dominical. Mecano sold more than The Madrid track comes from their 25 million albums from 1981 until Follow the city lights album that saw a 1992, and it’s vocalist Ana Torroja’s change of direction from their normal distinctive voice that makes this track grunge/alternative rock to electro pop. special. However, the meaning of the With its catchy rhythm and repetition lyrics is open to question – it’s a love of the chorus, ‘going round and round, song, but what type of love song has follow the city lights’, it’ll certainly stay provoked much discussion amongst with you. fans. See what you think. ‘Madrid’ by El Canto del ‘Te dejo Madrid’ by Shakira Loco Perhaps the most famous song with ‘I’m going to play in your city, which is ‘Madrid’ in its title, and with more than my city if you are there’ says this pop five million youtube hits, you probably rock track by El Canto del Loco. The know it well. If not, this 2002 track by band name translates as The Song of Shakira comes from her fifth album, the Madman, but the group were smart Laundry Service. It’s a love song, enough to sell more than a million although its exact definition and also albums before separating in 2010. that of the accompanying bullfighter- Walking the city streets is mentioned linked video raise more questions than here, and inevitably so is stopping for answers. One thing’s for sure – with a wine in Antón Martín, which based the size of the scissors she has in the on our research must have been full of video, she knows someone with a huge strolling songwriters at some points in toenail problem. the past. The Madrid Metropolitan January /February 2020 21

French Connection Javier Cercas Our Diplomatic World The Institut Francais’ Luz Casal language in schools, during which time action-packed his teacher declared that ‘Languages are cultural agenda 1992 when the film ‘High heels’ premiered the key to wisdom’. In his speech he in France she felt incredibly loved by the also revealed how France has been very 2020 has begun! public who thought she was something generous to him with his many awards extraordinary and with a comical smile on received from them. He also stated that By Abi Lindsay Clark her face, Luz conveyed how during that ‘an enclosed culture is a dead culture’. period she would look in the mirror and The 2019 cultural season ‘Nosotros On the 16th of January the see no defects! Luz has performed many Europa’ (We are Europe) was highly Institute Francais opened their successful songs in French. She also stated successful with 160 events in 11 different new cultural year in Spain, that in music the voice is probably the cities with a huge number of spectators. titled, ‘Entre Lenguas Entre Culturas’ most expressive instrument of all. The year 2020 will be dedicated to the with a spectacular event held at the Javier Cercas’ expressed his love for double diversity of cultures and languages. French embassy in Madrid, hosted France and how his generation was The French Ambassador expressed that by the French Ambassador in Spain, the last to study French as the second the mastering of several languages and Jean-Michel Casa. 2020’s patrons knowledge of other cultures represent are Luz Casal y Javier Cercas. TIFE, the fundamental conditions in a peaceful (Temporada cultural Institut Francais globalization, which is one of the most España) presents a programme replete important objectives of the French and with diverse cultural events, offering the European diplomacy. He also stated the perfect start to the new decade and how Spain is a very diverse and linguistic the year 2020. land; open to the world. He mentioned how Francophonie, the united group of The famous and highly acclaimed singer nations in which French is a first, official, Luz Casal was the ideal person to be or culturally significant language, uniting chosen for this role, especially given her 84 countries, is also vital for the protection success with the Pedro Almodóvar film of the diversity of both cultures and ‘High Heels’ (Tacones Lejanos) back in languages. 1991 which was hugely popular in France This cultural year promises events and and very much put her on the French concepts such as ‘Night of ideas’ which map. The renowned Spanish author Javier involves a fascinating exchange of ideas Cercas also a perfect chose, given his huge between countries and cultures. ‘A series success not only worldwide but especially of debates without frontiers. ‘literary in France. He recently received the award events. ‘The year of the comic’. ‘Diversity, ‘Premio Planeta’ for his psychological the engine of innovation’. ‘Linguistic novel ‘tierra alta’. and cultural diversity to access both During the presentation speeches, Luz knowledge and the labour market’ and Casal expressed her honour at having been ‘The art of diversity,’ including performing chosen to be one of this year’s patrons. In arts, visual arts, cinema & music. This year as France will host ‘Africa 2020’ there will also be many cultural events related to this. All the information can be found at www. insitutfrancais.es/madrid/eventos 22 January /February 2020 The Madrid Metropolitan

14 Jan Happy Hour at BOCANEGRA 19:00-21:00 23 Jan ACM Business Lunch @ Green House Madrid. Speaker: Jim Mercereau - US Primary Elections/registration 23 Jan LEADS Group info at [email protected] 30 Jan Corporate Member Cocktail @ Ramses By Invitation Only 11 Feb Happy Hour with speed dating :-) venue TBA 19 Feb Need to Know Seminar @ CEU University : Implications of new US/Spain treaty to avoid double taxation. 19 Feb LEADS Group info at [email protected] 20 Feb ACM Business Lunch @ Green House Madrid - BREXIT 27 Feb “How to speak in public” CEU Alumni communication series The Madrid Metropolitan January /February 2020 23

Going out How to eat and drink in Madrid There can be First of all let’s deal with the annoying straightforward, and many bars have a few places in the word “tapas”. Visitors from London chalk board with the different options world where it is seeking to recreate their overpriced bowl available. However, once you are in the easier to eat and of olives in Shoreditch experience may world of beer, then things suddenly get drink than Madrid. be alarmed to discover that there is no complex. Not because Madrid bars serve a After all there’s a such thing as a tapas bar. In fact if you huge variety of beers, because they don’t. bar or restaurant are in a bar in Madrid advertising itself Although craft beer bars are starting to every few metres, as a tapas bar, then you have just been spring up, 90 % of Madrid bars serve one catering to the caught in a tourist trap. Tapas have a long basic type of beer, which is refreshingly madrileños endless and complex history in Spain. Essentially cold lager made in Spain. Mahou is and compulsive the word simply means “lid” or “cover”, the classic Madrid brand, but Estrella desire to socialise. and refers to the centuries old tradition Galicia surprisingly from Galicia, is also of serving alcoholic drinks with a small very common, and arguably nicer, as is However, how to actually order bite to eat which was traditionally placed Cruzcampo from the south, Estrella Dam what you want, and how to over the glass. But the protocol for tapas from Catalonia, or the ubiquitous Amstel know what you are ordering has evolved and diverged into all kinds and San Miguel. The key issue is how big a can be confusing. This isn’t usually a of regional variations. In large parts of beer do you want? linguistic problem. Most bar workers Spain there is no tradition of tapas at If you’re going for bottled beer then a can grasp a little bit of English these all. In Barcelona, and along much off the small 25 cl bottle is called a “botellín” days, and there’s always google northern Atlantic coast the concept does which goes down nicely with a tapa. translator. The real challenge is not exist (outside purpose built tourist More popular with the thirsty Brits is the learning how to navigate your way traps) and you get nothing with your beer, “tercio” a larger 33 cl bottle, but it’s only around the many different ways to or wine. In Granada you get half a meal. called a tercio in Madrid. Travel outside consume. In Almeria and Cadiz you are expected to the capital and they are likely to call it pay a little extra for the tapas. In Madrid a “mediana.” For draft beer the smallest however, tapas are gloriously free, and unit is a “caña.”, From there then you in any half decent bar when you order a can go upwards to a “doble”, or in some drink, at the waiter’s discretion you will bars further still to a “jarra” . If you find be given some food with it which may yourself in one of the city’s many “Irish” vary from a small plate of olives, a morsel pubs then you can relax and ask for a of ham, or cheese, or anchovies, and in “pinta.” The exact relative size of the the worst places some crisps or nuts. “caña” or “doble” varies from bar to bar. Searching out the most generous tapas If you are in a concert or street party you bars is an art and an adventure in itself. might also find the option of a massive But of course to get your free tapas, first vat of beer designed to be consumed you have to order a drink. Here it can communally, confusingly called a “mini.” If get confusing. If you are drinking wine you’re on a tight budget you can wander then as long as you know the Spanish into any number of shops and buy a for red, white, and rosé, then it’s pretty “litrona” which is a litre of beer, usually 24 January /February 2020 The Madrid Metropolitan

mahou, but be warned, it is illegal to between some of these establishments, If you’re looking for a full meal then again consume your own alcohol in the street, and a restaurant are blurred, and seem you have options. Many, usually cheaper and the Spanish police enthusiastically to depend mainly on what the business bars offer “platos combinados” often with impose fines as an alternative means of owner fancied calling the establishment. photos of the choices available. These financing the state. Anything calling itself a “pub” is likely tend to be things like ham, egg, and chips, If you are bravely going to hit the to be more focused on nightlife, and less fish, salad and chips etc. Mid-week, and in spirits, then be warned that there are on food. Pubs will usually have music, some places also at weekends at a higher no foul optics here. Waiters will usually and will have given a certain amount of price your best bet is to go for the “menu pour direct from the bottle, and can be thought to the decor. Many Spaniards del día”, a fixed price menu consisting alarmingly generous. Spirits, like rum, Strat the evening in bars and then move of a choice of first course, often salad, whisky, and gin are usually referred to on to the pubs, often in the early hours. soup, but many other things too, and as “copas” although you can also ask for There are of course also dozens of “Irish then a more substantial protein based a “chupito” in most bars, which is a tiny pubs”, not exactly the same thing, but second course, plus dessert, and wine. glass, usually consumed after a meal. a good place to watch televised sport. In cheaper bars the cheap and cheerful Asides from the standard international A “club” on the other hand is a brothel, wine is often served with lemonade called brands Spain also specialises in its own and likely to be expensive, and not very “casera.” You can still find plenty of great “licores” which are made from anything salubrious. If you want to dance the night value menu del dias for under 10 euros, from herbs, to coffee, various fruits, sloes, away then you are probably looking for but you can pay up to 40 euros if you’re or honey. a “discoteca” but many late night places after something a bit more sophisticated. Before getting into the complex question just call themselves by their name, with Like tapas, the quality varies enormously of ordering food, it can also be useful to entrance fees varying on the fashionability from bar to bar, and knowing which places learn the difference between different of the place at any given time. do the best menu del dia is part of the types of establishments. The word “bar” A “cafetería” surprisingly serves coffee, wonderful experience of living in Madrid. is ubiquitous, and refers to anywhere that and usually breakfasts, or sweets such If you insist on having a wider choice sells drink, and usually something to eat. as buns and cakes where you sit down to then you can just order from the “carta” Some bars have restaurants incorporated eat as opposed to a “pastelería” which is or menu, and eat whatever your heart into them, others don’t, but there will usually a take-away. Many cafeterias also desires, but for a higher price. always be something on offer. Also some serve beer and wine, and even spirits. Beyond that, Madrid is your gastronomic bars call themselves “cervercerías” which Onto the minefield of food: If you go to oyster. You can discover all of Spain’s literally means a beer place. Lots of the right bars, and finding the right bars immensely varied regional gastronomy bars have “terrazas” where you can sit is a great way to explore Madrid, you can in the city, as well as increasingly outside. The waiter usually comes to you, get just about get by on drinks and tapas international food from Japanese to eventually, and it’s generally considered alone. The more health conscious visitor, Ethiopian. There are also a growing bad form to buy your own drink at the bar however, may wish to focus on the food. number of excellent vegan restaurants. and take it outside. Next step up from tapas is a “pincho”, or The ins and outs of Spanish cuisine is a The words “taberna”, “mesón”, and a “pintxo.” In contrast to tapas you are whole other topic, but a few key words “posada” are more or less interchangeable, expected to pay for these. They are usually will help you. If a restaurant calls itself and are all places that sell drinks, and larger portions than tapas, and bars an “asador” it specialises in Castillian also a substantial choice of food. The lines serving pinchos will have a bar menu or a style roast meats, typical of central Spain. board. It’s a way of eating more generally A “sidrería” is an Asturian cider house, associated with northern Spain, especially selling cloudy pungent cider and usually the Basque Country, but Madrid being the a range of Asturian dishes such as the capital has it all. famous fabada bean stew. A “marisquería” From tapas and pinchos your next step up will be focused on Galician shell fish, and the culinary ladder is the “ración.”.Again sea food in general. A “ freiduría” serves most bars will have a list of “raciones.” A Andalusian style fried fish. An “arrocería” “ración” is a plate full of one type of food, will serve you Valencia style rice, dishes designed to be shared by various people. A and if you’re lucky even a proper paella. group of Spaniards will often order several And many places will serve you all of raciones which come with a fork per these things and everything in between. person, and thereby you end up sharing Whatever you fancy, if you go hungry it’s plates full of octopus, cheese, ham, squid, because you don’t really like eating, or you or whatever you feel like trying. It’s a have an urgent need to open your mind pleasant sociable way to eat, and allows to the endless possibilities of what this you to explore different aspects of Spanish gastronomic stronghold has to offer. Once cuisine. you’ve eaten and drank your way around Madrid you’ll never want to visit a London tapas bar again! The Madrid Metropolitan January /February 2020 25

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Teambuilding with a Castilian Twist. The Madrid Treasure Hunt is just one of many fun and challenging teambuilding activities that can be enjoyed with www.madridadventures. com – the No.1 Madrid DMC – Now in our 20th year of making the difference. The Madrid Metropolitan January /February 2020 31