Scheria, Koryfo, Corfu. Three names, three different aspects of the single, incessant course of Corfu over the centuries. Corfu of the myths, the Venetian Renaissance, the British greatness, the emerald olive groves, the blue seas. Corfu of the tourist tide, Corfu of modern Greece and modern Europe, benevolent fate, always in the forefront of history. This album “Corfu Panorama” (Corfu, Paxoi, Antipaxos, Mathraki, Othoni, Ereikoussa) a collective effort and diligence of Chris Antipas aims at highlighting the profile of the island of Corfu, as it was shaped over the centuries. The incomparable beauty of the landscape of Corfu, its glorious past and its diverse present of the island compose the uniqueness of Corfu. Our ambition is that the reading of this album will motivate you to visit the island and experience all these excitements that it can so generously offer you.
Antiniotis CorfuApraos Kassiopi Peroulades Sidari Roda Acharavi Palia Perithia Kassiopi Karousades Fortress Avliotes Agios Stefanos Nymphes Strinilas Arillas Kyprianades Ano Mount Pantocrator Korakiana Nisaki Pagi Agios Markos Barbati Doukades Pyrgi Skripero Ipsos Aggelokastro Lakones Fortress Old Fortress New Fortress Paleokastritsa Liapades Agios Spyridon Gouvia Ropas ValleyKontokali Catholic Cathedral Giannades Potamos Corfu Ermones Alepou Ereikousa Kanali Halikiopoulos Lakka Paxi Pelekas Loggos Varypatades Ereikousa Sinarades Kynopiastes Gaios Gastouri - Achilleio Othoni Ano Garouna Kato Garouna Benitses Othoni Kato Pavliana Episkopiana Antipaxos Ano Pavliana Moraitika Mathraki Alykes Agios Mathaios Mesoggi Mathraki Lefkimi Gardiki Fortress Map: Kostas Papageorgiou - Nikos Gazetas Chlomos Korission Argyrades Neochori Kavos
22 Corfu 52 Page Paxoi Page QUEEN OF Antipaxos HISTORICAL OVERVIEW THE IONIAN SEA Mathraki Although Corfu was a “Bone Lagoons, lakes, waterfalls, Othoni of contention”, barbarians or rivers, forests, mountains, Ereikoussa civilized conquerors could not islets. And whatever nature alter the Greek identity of the “didn’t have time to do” is 76 Corfiots. complemented by human architecture. Page 98 106 MONUMENTS and FORTS Page Ancient temples, castles, Page towers, moat, Roman baths, BLAZONS cave with Paleolithic finings, The great spiritual, artistic, OLD PHOTOS Byzantine buildings and business and other celebrities History is not only written by churches adorn the island seal with their blazons their historians. It is also written of Phaeakes. passage from Corfu. by photographers. And photographers have a lot 246 148 186 to “tell” us about the island. Page Page Page CULTURAL EVENTS MUSEUMS CHURCHES and The happy and extroverted Painters, sculptors, craftsmen MONASTERIES character of the Corfiots has of ceramics, engravers and all The Corfiots built at their own shaped the way they celebrate. kinds of artists have been expense and personal work Solemn at the religious events, working for centuries and churches with excellent and open to the feast. nowadays their work is decoration and artistic bell exhibited. towers. 264 Page PAINTING - SCULPTURE - ENGRAVING Cultures and artists made an “appointment in Corfu” and created new trends influenced by the Western way of thinking. 284 300 420 Page Page Page STATUES OLD TOWN ACHILLEIO Many worthy sons, and many Here the past meets the The palace that concealed foreigners who loved and present. The story “speaks” the pain of Sissy, created works of art on the in every corner, every square, the empress of Austria and was island. every street. later “sealed” and by Kaiser Today we can get to know them And reminds you the soul Wilhelm II. by their statues. of the Corfiots.
464 514 Page Page NORTH-EAST CORFU NORTH-WEST CORFU The Kapodistrias Museum, The “Canal of love”, the sunset of Ai-Giorgi, the “Fortress of the Venetian shipyards, Angels”, Paleokastritsa, the the Gallery, the Roman castle, place where Nausicaa found the old mansions: Odysseus. are only a small part of what you can see here. 620 582 Page Page SOUTH-EAST CORFU The river resembling Central SOUTH-WEST CORFU Europe, the passage of the The throne of Kaiser, the bell Emperor, the olive aged over tower made of chipped stone, 2,500 years, the birthplace of the “pasaentza” joining the at- Kapodistrias, the Sea Museum. tached houses, the embrasures, the ruined monastery. 666 712 726 Page Page Page PAXOI and ANTIPAXOS DIAPONTIAN ISLANDS BUILDINGS - “LANDMARKS” Small islands of great beauty. The “guards of Greece”, the The houses not only satisfy the Love nest of Poseidon and western edge of Corfu with need for housing, but they also Amphitrite, the hidden beaches the beauty, the greenery and satisfy the need of the architect of the Ionian Sea expanded in tranquility proving that... for creation. a few square meters. paradise still exists. That’s why masterpieces were made. 740 760 Page Page COLORS and FRAGRANCES AMUSEMENT and SPORTS Flowers “speak” in Corfu. Sports at the sea, the seabed, With their colors, smells, the mountain and... in the air. combinations of shades and In Corfu you will find sports they are everywhere. that are unknown to the rest of Greece. 772 792 Page Page TASTES... of CORFU SUNSETS The sun not only gives life. Painters and sculptors are It also gives beauty. not the only artists. And the sunset in Corfu Cooks are too. is beautiful because it is And their “works of art” go different every single day. down in history and become traditional recipes.
Lagoons Apart from the ecological interest, the Korission Lagoon has an a The Eurasian otter is a small animal which lives on the banks of rivers and lakes, in clear water. It is one of the rarest and most endangered mammals. It is an indication that the water is clear and it is protected in all countries where it lives. Fishes, amphibians, reptiles, invertebrates, birds and small mammals are its food. In Corfu you can find the famous flamingos, too. There are more than 500 of them with white, black and pink colours on their feathers, known as flamingos, and they make every lagoon special. They love tranquility, so if someone wants to see them, they have to be absolutely quiet. Flamingos stay in the shallow waters of lagoons for about four months. Korission Lagoon The Korission Lagoon is the largest lagoon and the most important wetland of the island. It is located in the southern part of the island, near Argyrades. A narrow strip of earth separates it from the Ionian Sea and creates two separate sand beaches, Halikounas and Issos. This place is protected by the Natura Treaty and it covers an area of 6.000 acres and, apart from the Lake of Korission, it also includes the coast, the forest of Cedars and a large number of dunes. This place attracts 126 kinds of birds, such us cormorant, widgeons, egrets, flamingos, ducks and thousands of butterflies, too. The lagoon is a very important place not only ecologically, but also archeologically. A mandible of a hippopotamus and small pieces of bones were found here, as well as a stone artifact in Paliavlakos where the lagoon and the sea meet. Alykes Lagoon The Alykes Lagoon has been known since the 16th century and it was named after the Alykes (salines) which existed there until 1988. It is a peninsula of about 200 acres. Thousands of flamingos come to the ecosystem of Alykes twice a year, every spring and autumn, to rest before their 24
archaeological interest too. CORFU PANORAMA 25
The name of the Island Drepanon, Makris, Scheria, Kassopaia, Argos or Keravna are just some of the names of Corfu in the distant past. Drepanon, named after its long, sickle-like shape or after «drepani», the weapon with which Saturn killed his father, Ouranos. The name Scheria, according to mythology, comes from the goddess Demeter. The goddess begged Neptune to stop the inundations of the river which was located on the opposite shore and threatened to turn the island into mudflats. The name Kerkyra (Corfu) derives also from the Greek mythology. The beauty of the nymph kerkyra or Korkyras in Doric, the daughter of the river Asopos, dazzled Neptune, who kidnapped her and took her to the island. Phaeakas was the fruit of their union, founder of the Phaeakes. In the Odyssey, Homer mentions the island of Phaeakes -which was believed it was Corfu- as the last station of Odysseus before Ithaca. During the Byzantine period the island was called Koryfo (peak), named after its two-peaked acropolis, that’s how the Latin name Corfu was born, by which Kerkyra is internation- ally known. The mythology handed over to the modern Corfiots and the emblem of the city. The “Apidalos Naphs” (a ship without steering oars) is still the symbol of the maritime craftsman- ship of the Phaeakes. Roman period (229 BC - 337 AD) In 229 BC, Corfu is forced to seek the protection of the Roman Empire. Rome grants full autonomy and privileges to the locals, in exchange for the use of the Corfiots’ ships and the harbors of the island as a station between Italy and the Eastern Mediterranean Sea. The period of this peaceful coexistence with the Romans lasted for approximately five centuries. During this period, Corfu embraces Christianity. During the Roman occupation, several major personalities visit Corfu, such as including Cicero, Plinius, Suetonius, and several emperors, such as Vespasian, Antoninus Pius, Septimius Severus and Nero. 54
A gravure of the Old Fortress and the Acropolis - Honri Lemen (1699) CORFU PANORAMA 55
Old Fortress There are various buildings in the interior of the fort, including a jail constructed in 1786 The Old Fortress (Fortezza or Agios Nikolaos Fortress) is by the Venetians, the military chapel, two built on a rocky peninsula with two characteristic peaks on barracks constructed by the British around the eastern edge of the city, from which it is separated by an 1850 and a military hospital which is now a artificial moat (contra-fossa). This particular location is ideal music school. as a defensive option, since it allows easy access to maritime space and full control over the neighboring coasts. The church of Agios Georgios is a project of the British in 1840, which 20 years later was History converted into a Catholic Church and was decorated with icons from the church of St. The site was fortified for the first time after the 6th century Spyridon. when it obtained its first inhabitants, probably survivors of previous disasters. The fortification of the fortress lasted about fifteen centuries. During this period, three historical phases stand out: The Byzantine period, during which the eastern hill (Castello Vecchio) was fortified, the early Venetian period, when the peninsula was turned into an island and the western hill (Castello Nuovo) was fortified, and the Late Venetian period, when the fortifications were completed and received their present form. During the 16th century, the Venetians strengthened the fortifications and the subsequent construction of moats around the fort. They grinded the surface of the rocks to prevent possible attempts of climbing by enemies. During this phase, the buildings in front of the fort were demolished and the imposing square of “Spianada” was built. Till the 17th century, the gradual restoration of the city inside the fortress with the district (borgo) was completed, which evolved into the newer and encircled by the wall city of Corfu. Structural, Architectural, Fortification elements Over the centuries, the fortress underwent several trans- formations, so little remained in its original form. The statue in honor of Marshal Schulenburg (made by the Venetians because the Constable helped the Corfiots to repulse the Turks) has now been transferred in front of the arched entrance of the fortress. From there, through a gallery, a corridor leads to the center of the acropolis. Another corridor, on the left, leads to the northern rampart of the fort. 96
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OLD PHOTOS Corfu doesn’t enchant only the visitor. It also enchants the camera lens. Not only with its landscapes and monuments. The daily life of the Corfiots in earlier times is also one of the features captured by the fans of the island. Their professional activities, habits and customs were recorded in old black and white photos. 106
1903 - Georgios Theotokis Square (“Sarocco”). CORFU PANORAMA 107
Archaeological Museum We can also observe copper laminas of the 6th and 5th century BC, as well as bronze statuettes of women and The Archaeological Museum of Corfu hosts the findings the goddess Venus. from various periods excavated occasionally on the island, some of which are of great archeological and artistic value. The interesting collection of the Museum includes valuable jewels. The building of the Archaeological Museum was built in the 1960s. It is spread over two floors with a courtyard on the One can also observe some of the terracotta statuettes ground floor and a balcony on the south and east side of the of Artemis, which were found in large quantities in the first floor. small temple of Artemis at Kanoni in Corfu city. The most representative and impressive exhibit of the There is also a coin exhibit and several busts and museum is the Gorgon Pediment. It is estimated that it was funerary steles. built in 585 BC and adorned the western side of the great Doric temple of Artemis and it is considered to be the oldest preserved stone pediment. The pediment extends in an entire room of the museum and depicts the Gorgon, which according to mythology, anyone who looked at her turned into stone. Her face is frightening with monstrous features, while snakes are tied on the locks of her hair and her waist. On her left and right stand her two children, Chrysaor and Pegasus. The representation is accompanied by two mythical animals, the lion-panthers, symbols of the forces of nature, with a lion’s head and a panther’s body. On the two corners of the pediment, scenes from the War of Titans complement the composition. According to reports, the pediment was brightly colored. In another room of the museum is exhibited the left part of a limestone pediment from the area of Figaretto. of Dionysus and a teenager lying in bed. There is a table in front of them and a resting lion under it. The Lion of Menecrates is another impressive exhibit created in the 7th century BC. It is believed that the lion was placed on the top of the monument of Menecrates. Many important burial artifacts are from the ancient cemetery of Garitsa and the area of Mon Repo, where the temples of Hera and Apollo are located. The ruins of ancient Corfu, Chersoupoli, might have been there. As a confirmation of the economic prosperity of the island, we can admire the silver currency of Corfu, with the illustration of a cow suckling her baby. 154
Limestone pediment with a representation of a Dionysian symposium. God Dionysos and a teenager. CORFU PANORAMA 155
The Architecture of Temples A church’s window of Byzantine style. Discovering Corfu, we are impressed by the many churches, about 800, which are found both in the city and in the countryside of Corfu. A possible explanation of the large number of churches is, on the one hand, the freedom of religious beliefs established by the Venetians and, on the other hand, the fact that most of them belonged to guilds of professionals or wealthy families able to afford the expenses of their construction and maintenance. Τhe first temples of Corfu were not parish, as we know them today, but corporate. In other words, people of the same occupation undertook the construction and maintenance of a temple. The vast majority of the churches on the island were built during the mid-16th century until the early 18th century. The oldest church of the city, the Byzantine church of Saints Jason and Sosipatros, was built in the 11th century. The architectural style that prevails in the churches of the city is the Basilica with the wooden roof and one or, more rarely, three aisles (narthexes). Their belfries are usually towering with Venetian elements. There are also simpler constructions with perforated walls closing up and with bells hanging from their openings. The interior of the temples consists of three areas. The sanctuary, separated from the nave with a wooden iconostasis, the main temple with the flat roof, the “Ourania”, adorned with hagiographies in embossed golden Baroque frames, and the balcony. The impressive compositions in most “Ouranies” in the temples of Corfu are inspired by the Venetian art and are characteristic specimens of the Ionian iconography. The interior of the church is often covered with purple or blue upholstery and adorned with portable hanging icons. The icons in the churches of Corfu belong to the post- Byzantine period and are mainly works of Cretan painters, Michael Damaskinos, Emmanuel Tzane, Konstantinos Kontarinis and of local artists using the same style. 190
The “Ourania” with the famous oil paintings in Saint Spyridon. CORFU PANORAMA 191
Easter The pitchers are thrown on Holy Saturday to scare the Good Friday One of the most picturesque Epitaphs on the island is the Epitaph of Saint George, the church inside the Old Fortress. When all the Epitaphs have come out from the temples, little girls hand out flowers to the people. The official procession is done by the Epitaph of the Metropolis, where all the Philharmonic bands of the island take part in. The procession of the Epitaph of Saint Spyridon with the sacred relics of the Saint takes place in the morning of the Holy Saturday. This peculiar custom derives from the period of the Venetian occupation, when the procession of the Epitaph was forbidden in the evening of Good Friday. Holy Saturday The breaking of pitchers is one of the most characteristic Corfiot customs. In the morning of Holy Saturday, the time of the first Resurrection and when the phrase “Anasta o Theos” (The Christ has risen) is heard in the churches, the Corfiots throw from their balconies pitchers full of water. It is believed that the evil spirits are scared of the din of the pitchers and won’t come close to the houses of the island. The bands are playing the cheery anthem “Don’t be afraid Grecians” in the streets and the cheerleaders are following them dancing. From this sound composition derives the phrase “Egine Anasta o Kyrios” (A mess of chaos and celebrations). The custom of “Mastelos” revives on Holy Saturday. In the old days, the porters of Corfu, the “Piniadori” placed a mastelo (long barrel) in a central part of the city adorned with myrtles and filled with water. Afterwards, they were asking passers-by to throw coins in the barrel making a wish and when they had gathered enough coins, they chased someone and threw him into the barrel, who had the privilege to collect the money. On the same night, at the Resurrection in Ano Platia, the Metropolitan of Corfu and the other official persons stand on the podium of the musical pavilion and chant Easter Hymns and the Philharmonic bands are playing marches. On every house’s window lit candles are placed and along with the candles of the worshippers the whole city is enlight- ened causing awe and solemnity. 250
evil spirits. The “Anasta o Kyrios” has a double meaning here. CORFU PANORAMA 251
Painting - Sculpture -Engraving The litany of Saint Spyridon in Esplanade (Spianada) in Corfu. The Heptanese School is the first Greek artistic movement Gravure (1821) with clear Western European influences, which appeared in the Ionian Islands in the mid-17th century. The Ionian Islands from the 17th to the 19th century were under the Venetian, French and English occupation. The relative freedom the residents enjoyed, their economic well-being and their cultural relations with the nearby Italy resulted in the creation of the Ionian Islands as the place where the Greek painting left the Byzantine tradition and turned towards the West. The creation of the Heptanese School contributed in the relocation of many Cretan painters in the Ionian Islands when Crete passed from the Venetian rule to the Ottoman. Among the major painters of the so called Cretan-Zante Academy of the 16th and 17th century are Michael Damaskinos, Dimitris and George Moschos, Manolis and Konstantinos Tzanes and Stefanos Tsagkarolos. The shift toward the Western art was manifested in the end of the 17th century, with the abandonment of traditional Byzantine forms. The paintings, influenced mainly by the Italian Baroque and the Flemish painting, began to acquire depth, i.e. giving the sense of the third dimension of space, to become more natural and acquire increasingly more cosmic themes. In addition, the Ionians painters, instead of egg, they began using oil as a color binder, and instead of a plank they began using a canvas. The first samples of the Western-style Heptanese School appeared on the decorations of the ceilings of churches, known as “Ouranies” or “sofita”. The pioneer of this change was Panagiotis Doxaras (1662-1723). He encouraged a naturalistic representation of figures, and introduced bold innovations marking the departure from the forms and values of Byzantine art. The main painters Emmanuel Tzanes “Mpounialis” (1610-1690) was a Greek painter of the Renaissance. His works are displayed at the church of St Jason and Sosipatros, in Panagia of Xenon, the Byzantine Museum, etc. 266
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The Union on the 21st of May 1864 CORFU: The “Apidalos Nafs” (a ship without paddles) is still the symbol of the naval virtuosity of the Phaeakes. With such capable sailors, the ship did not need a paddle. PAXI: The Trident of Poseidon is the symbol of Paxi, LEFKADA: Pegasus, the horse of Greek mythology, which were formed when Poseidon threw it at Corfu with the warrior, a remnant of the Corinthian disembark and a part of the island was detached. on the island, is its symbol.
KEFALLINIA: Cephalous, who arrived at the island ITHACA: The first resident of the island was Ithacos, as a refugee from Athens or from the Greek tribe a descendant of Zeus, who came from Corfu of Kefallinon or Kefallanon, is its symbol. and gave his name to the island and became its emblem. ZAKYNTHOS: According to mythology, Zakynthos KYTHIRA: Aphrodite was born here and she travelled was born in Phrygia and was the first resident of the island, to Cyprus on a shell, where she emerged from the sea. saved it from the snakes and became its emblem. This picture is the emblem of Tsirigo.
Old Town Esplanade (Spianada), the Moat and the Old Fort. Nature has been generous to Corfu and gave her her infinite beauty. But people also respected these gifts and their creations were adapted to a perfect degree with these beauties. A simple stroll in the area persuades even the most demanding visitor that Nature and tradition are “blended” perfectly here. Campiello Campiello is the oldest settlement in Corfu. It was created during the Anjou rule in about 1267-1386, when the overpopulation of the city and the pressures of the Catholics forced many residents to spread out and around the city. And, therefore, Xopoli was created - today’s Old Town. The first Sephardim Jews arrived during that period, who were expelled from Spain and settled in Corfu, in Ovriovouni. The typical image of the square is composed by the church, the mansions, upscale residences and sometimes the well, which is actually the mouth of a cistern. In the background it can be discerned the famous “Arch of Kokkinis”, a picturesque arched passage, the “Kantouni of Bizis” (alley) etc. Campiello is of global interest and is enlisted in the World Heritage Sites of Unesco. The narrow alleys, kantounia, usually end up in unanticipated small squares after which the region is named. (Campiello in Italian means small square). Clotheslines with spread out laundries are hanging from facing balconies, which are separated by such short distance that the neighbors could easily exchange hand- shakes from their... porch! The mansions (and not only them) are famous for their architecture. Μetzalounes (arches) create very beautiful shapes above the doors. Batidoura (the knockers on the door for the visitor) on the front doors have special, strange shapes. “Piteria” (pots) add colors. Tsantsaminia (Jasmines) in kantounia are flooding the area with their scent. The narrow and shadowy kanizeles (the alleys) and the rambling, also narrow streets complement the breathtaking image of the Old Town. 304
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Town Hall The once “Arcade of the Nobles” which served as a theater, and A typical example of the Venetian architecture in Corfu, the Town Hall located at the Town Hall square, the social center during the Venetian era. The building, the formerly famous Arcade of the Nobles was built in stages between 1661 and 1693, to be used as a club of the Venetian fleet officers and a lounge arcade (Loggia) of the city’s nobility. In 1717, the building was converted into a theater and was named “San Giacomo Theatre” after the name of the Catholic Church at the same square. The church of St. James was built in 1632 and operated as the Catholic metropolis. The “San Giacomo Theatre” was one of the first European theaters where opera performances were staged, it was closely linked with the principles of the Ionian and Greek theater and created the theatrical reputation of Corfu. Since 1733 several melodrama performances were staged. The Corfiots loved the theater so much that, according to tradition, they did not only watch sole performances but also the rehearsals of the theatrical companies. When in 1903 a new theater was built in Corfu, the building was converted into the Town Hall, by adding a floor. The building, of Renaissance style, is made of carved stone Sinion by an unknown architect. Its exterior was decorated with arches and baroque sculptures. At its east side is the bust of Francesco Morosini with four children (who symbolize his virtues). The curtain of the theater which was an excellent artwork was crafted by Giovanni Bouzato, director of the Academy of Fine Arts of Venice or, according to others, by Napoleon Gkenovezi. It was adorned by representations from the Odyssey and Ulysses on the island of the Phaeakes, namely Corfu. The curtain was saved from the destruction of the theater in 1943 and today has been transferred at the new Municipal Theatre of Corfu, like Portantina, a gilded carriage with velvet seat, which was the transportation mean of the prima donna of each performance from the hotel to the theater. 354
today is the Town Hall. CORFU PANORAMA 355
Old Fortress One of the most impressive fortifications of the European area, the Old Fortress, is the most striking feature of the city that dominates as a towering rocky two-peaked end. The geographical position of Corfu frequently made it a target for raiders, which enforced its fortification. Around 550 AD the Corfiots, abandoning Chersoupolis, later known as Paleopolis, fled in a small, safe peninsula in front of the present city and built the Fortress. Due to the two peaks of the rocks, the city was named “Korifo”, a name which has been preserved nowadays in many foreign languages (Corfu, Corfou). The fortification of the Fortress was completed consecutively by the Byzantines, the Despots of Epirus and the Anjou, the Venetians, however, were those who formed it focusing on the separation of the small peninsula of the Old Fortress from the rest of the island with the opening of the trench. Moreover, they expanded the free space in front of the fort, the Esplanade. The works were completed in 1568, giving the fortress its final shape and the equipment that made it impregnable. After the fall of the Most Serene Republic of Venice in 1717, the Old Fort served as a military center of the existing administration. The English conquerors made several modifications by building the stone building of the Infantry Barracks, the military hospital in the Acropolis and the Church of Saint George, which operated at first as an Anglican church. When the Union of Corfu with the rest of Greece was decided, the major European powers demanded the demolition of the fortifications on the islet Vido, the city walls and parts of the New Fortress. The dynamic intervention of the Corfiots saved the Old Fortress, which in 1943 protected Corfu from the German bombings. The structure of the Old Fortress The walls of the Fortress have three different levels: the highest level includes the two rocks and the space between them. The middle encloses the largest part of the fortress. The lower, which was built later, surrounds only the Kaposidero Cape. 366
Utilitarian spaces for the needs of life in the Old Fortress. CORFU PANORAMA 367
New Fortress The “Fortress of Saint Mark” enlightened. The New Fortress, the «Fort of Saint Markus» is located in the northwest edge of the city and was built by the Venetians in 1576, shortly after the second Turkish siege. The growing population and the continuous expansion of Corfu combined with the territorial claims of the enemies enforced the new fortifications. In the defense strategy there should be counted and the surroundings, as the city expanded to the west. The second siege in 1537 by the Turks left no room for postponements. In 1576, the Venetians sent to Corfu the architect Francis Viteli in order to oversee the fortifications. They started the construction of the new fortress on the hill of Agios Markos which expanded to the south with walls and bastions reaching till the sea at Garitsa. Corfu is now surrounded all by walls, and, therefore, was named by the locals Kastropoli. For the construction of the New Fortress, completed in 1645, and the extension of the city walls it was necessary to demolish about 2,500 houses and several old churches. Viteli ordered the fortification of the hill of Agios Markus with another fortress to protect the surrounding area. The New Fortress was smaller than the Old and extended on two levels. The walls of the New Fortress were surrounded by dry moat and ramparts were built to strengthen the defense of the city. On the east side of the low level that protected the port, there was a small bastion which connected the fortress with the city walls from where the part of the fortress called Punta Perpetua. Inside the bastion there is a maze of arched chambers, galleries, ventilation shafts, stairs and ramps. Just above that is the bastion “Kalogeros” and the fortifications of «Korakofolia». The bastion of “Skarponas” strengthen the defense of the second level and is the point at which the most ferocious battles with the Turks took place during the siege of 1716. Between Skarponas and Sarantaris bastion was Porta Stopa al Tenedos at which ended the burrow of the People’s Market which was used by the commander of the Fortress, in case of emergency, to communicate with the external defense. 380
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Old Palaces of The Old Palaces of Saints Michael and George, Saints Michael and George which were built by Thomas Maitland, are the most important monument of the British rule. It is located on the north side of the Esplanade square and one of the most impressive sights of Corfu. The building was designed by the English Engineer Colonel George Whitemore and built during 1819-1823, during the administration of the English Commissioner, Thomas Maitland. The palace originally housed the Ionian Senate, while it was used as a residence by the Maitland himself. Then it hosted the Order of Saint Michael and Saint George, founded in 1818 and was named after the saints. For nearly fifty years (1864-1913) it was used by the Greek royal family as ceremonies and banquet halls, and is nowadays housing the Asian Art Museum and the Municipal Gallery with numerous exhibits. The main gate was named St. George’s gate and the other Saint Michael’s Gate. Both are located on the square. The names of the saints were engraved above these gates. On the pediment of the palace are carved the coats of arms of the seven islands. In the middle is the English coat of arms. It is undoubtedly the most important monument of the British rule and one of the first neoclassical buildings in Greece. It is grand and elegant, despite its size. It is the second largest palace in Greece after the palace of King Otto in Athens (that is today’s Parliament). They are made of Maltese stone and its facade is adorned by a Doric peristyle. The upper part of the Palace is decorated with allegorical representations of the Ionian Islands, works of the Corfiot sculptor Paul Prosalentis. There we can see Corfu represented by an ancient ship symbol, “Apidalon Nafn” (a ship without paddles). Even more impressive is the interior of the Palace with luxurious ballrooms, banquet and catering rooms, decorated with marble fireplaces, chandeliers and illustrations of the honorary decorations of Saint Michael and Saint George. In June 1994, the renovated Palace hosted some of the events of the Summit Meeting of the European Union. 388
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Liston Light... and color give the lanterns at Liston. The impressive complex of buildings on the west side of Esplanade, Liston, was built between 1807 and 1814 by the French Imperials and its buildings were townhouses. It covers approximately two city blocks and is the work of the French engineer Mathieu de Lesseps (father of the famous Ferdinand Lesseps, leader of the Suez Canal), who built the buildings on Rivoli Street in Paris, in the same architectural style that prevailed during the Napoleonic period. In the design and the construction of the building also participated the Greek engineer Ioannis Parmezan. The original aim of the French were buildings like Liston, with arches (volta, as they are called in Corfu) and characteristic Venetian lanterns, to get to the point where the Ionian Academy is nowadays. But they did not manage to fulfil their plans, since the island was occupied by the British. Originally the building had a ground floor and one floor was used as a barracks by the French. Downstairs were the residences of soldiers and on the first floor the officers’. Later, the remaining floors and its largest part was turned into luxury hotels, such as “Bella Venezia”. In their rooms there were hosted illustrious figures such as Constantine Cavafy and Dionysus Solomos. According to an old misconception, the name “Liston” came from the word “list”, since in the gallery of the buildings and the front walkway could only walk those who were written in the “Golden Bible lists of the Nobles”. And, therefore, “Liston (plural of “list” in Greek)” was considered correct orthographically. We now know that the Venetians called “Liston” the paved pedestrian street destined for urban promenade (named after Listoni which are oblong stone or marble slabs). In Liston everyone could then, as now, go for a walk. Today, under the arches, we find cafes, restaurants and outstretched tables up to the shadow of the trees in the square. 400
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Paleopolis Basilica of Paleopolis In the area of Paleopolis we come across the Basilica of Paleopolis, an important early Christian monument. Situated opposite Mon Repo, where the ancient city center was located. It was built in the 5th AD century and it was one of the largest basilicas of that period, five-aisled, with two narthexes, adorned with many sculptures and mosaics. The church was dedicated to Santa Kerkyra. The Basilica of Paleopolis was destroyed during the raids of the 6th century and in its place was built a smaller three-aisled, which was also destroyed in the 11th century. In 1537, the church was rebuilt and destroyed by the bombings of WW II. Today the church is ruined, without its roof. The estate of Mon Repo (Mon Repo means “my rest”), in Paleopolis, is the largest green lung of the city with a total extent of 240,000 m2. Within the limits of the estate were discovered the ruins of the ancient temples of Hera and Apollo. Mon Repo Mon Repo was built in 1828-31 as a holiday house of the commissioner Lord Fred Adam. It is also a work of Whitemore. It is a building with simple forms, large windows and a typical application of the morphological characteristics of the English classical tradition with the addition of Greek elements. After the Union, it was granted by the City to King George I, who named it Mon Repo. It was granted back to the property of the Municipality of Corfu, that granted for fifty years the building of the villa to the Ministry of Culture to house the museum of Paleopolis. Panagia Vlacherna - Pontikonisi The monastery of Panagia Vlacherna housed nuns until 1980. It is located on the islet of Vlacherna linked to Corfu with a narrow corridor. Pontikonisi is called the “ship of Ulysses”. The legend says that when the king of Ithaca arrived here, Neptune turned the ship in a green rock. 408
The British Commissioner Fred Adam built Mon Repo as a holiday house. CORFU PANORAMA 409
Achilleio Perfectly integrated in the surroundings, Achilleio is situated just outside Gastouri, one of the most picturesque villages of the island. Built on a hill, in neoclassical style, surrounded by beautiful gardens full of cypresses, olives, geraniums, bougainvillea. The view from its balconies is magnificent. The palace A strange sense of awe overwhelms anyone that gazes over the imposing form of the Palace. The stunning appearance of this stately palace takes the visitor back in history. The main entrance, the facade of the palace, is located to the east and formed by a prominent Doric pillar. Two marble Centaurs are adorning the balcony on the first floor. The patios left and right from the balcony are supported by Corinthian columns. On the terrace on the second floor are four bronze nymphs-lampposts. On the left side of the building is Hermes ready to fly, wearing his sandals and holding the caduceus. The heavy entrance door is adorned with brass representations. On the left Zeus is depicted hitting by lighting the Titans, and on the right Achilles with his charioteer on a quadriga chariot. From the entrance the visitor enters the lobby in a Roman Type patio, of internal courtyard. The palace is a complex of Orders with strong Renaissance and Pompey elements. The first room on the right had been turned by Elizabeth into a chapel, the subsequent halls were dormitories, while on the left was the smokehouse, the dining room, a games room and the galley. From the reception begins the great staircase, imitation of the stairs of the Opera in Paris, leading to the upper floors. The divine couple, Zeus and Hera, in body size, are based on the railing of the fence. On the first floor were the apartments of the Emperor Franz Joseph and Maria Valeria, the youngest daughter of the Imperial couple. On the second floor were the apartments of Elisabeth. The first artwork we encounter is the fresco “The Four Seasons and the Hours”, on the roof of the reception hall. A work of the Italian Gallopi, represents in an allegorical way the changing of the seasons of the year. 422
The imposing Achilleio was built with expenses of Elizabeth. CORFU PANORAMA 423
Northeast Corfu Focusing on the coastal road, we encounter too many villages succeeding each other. Others are washed by the waves, others are a bit more inside the inland and others are mountainous. However, all have their own personality. Let’s start the “exploration”. First route Alepou is a suburb connected to the city of Corfu found in written sources as early as the 16th century, as borgo (suburb). In 1584 the Church of Agia Paraskevi was founded. About its name, others claim that it originates from the grape variety “aloupou” and others from a corruption of the name of landowners Alipoutza (Alpuzza). Of course, it can be named after the cunning quadruped. And Potamos is a suburb of the city of Corfu. It was named after the river that crosses it and is the most important in significance and amount of water as well as a wetland (p. 34). Its banks are joined by the Asirmatos Bridge, an architectural work of the Venetian period. In the village are preserved many mansions even from the 16th century. The Church of Zoodochou Pigis and Church Barbarian with its 35 meters’ belfry is a building of the early 16th century. On the beach there were salt pans during the Venetian Era. Evropouli is a small, picturesque village. In a place called Koukouritsa lies Kapodistrias Museum - Center of Kapodistrian Studies. It was founded in 1981 and is donated by Maria Desylla-Kapodistria, Mayor of Corfu (the first female Mayor in Greece) during the period 1956-1959. It is housed in the summer residence of the family of the first Governor of Greece and was part of the estate of his family. The exhibits are personal items, medals, decorations and seals with the crest and furniture of that era. In the church is kept a bagpipe from Russia donated by Kapodistrias himself to the church. There is also an old oil mill, built in 1777. Next stop, Kontokali. A coastal village with shady streets and a sandy beach. It was named after the noble Christopher Kontokalis who participated as a Sopracomito (the Commander of a naval ship) in the Βattle of Lepanto (1571). 466
The bells in the steeple of the Church of Saint James the Persian in Old Perithia. CORFU PANORAMA 467
Northwest Corfu “Bounteous beauties” throughout Corfu. Of course, the same applies and at its northwest side. Here are some of the most known worldwide beaches. But we will also encounter many villages that reveal us their Byzantine history. First route Let’s start with Roda, one of the major tourist resorts with the vast, white beach. Here was an ancient Doric temple of the 5th BC century and some of its parts are exhibited in the Archaeological Museum of Corfu. Next beach, Astrakeri, a small coastal settlement. During the Venetian rule, it was a den of the pirates. It was named after the flowers-shrubs, astrakes. According to legend, the flower got its name from the goddess Asterea who cried because she did not see any stars (astra) when she looked down to earth. Karousades were inhabited in 20 BC from the Karoucians, namely Pontian refugees. During the Byzantine period, it was an administrative center and developed economically. In 1453 Theotokis family, with a strong presence in the economic and cultural life of the island that showed many politicians, settled here. Their stately mansion, built in 1500, still exists. Antiperni is a picturesque village “embraced” by dense vegetation. It is said that its name has been preserved since Homer who mentioned it as Antipernaia. It means “cross over”, i.e. opposite the fortress of the city of Phaeakes. Sidari is a tourist resort known worldwide. Here lies one of the biggest attractions of the island: The “Canal of Love” (Canal d ‘Amour). It was created by rocks of soft stones rising from the sea. The legend says that there were two young lovers who were petrified in the sea. Tiflos River flows into the middle of the beach. You will enjoy the calm waters of the sea while swimming and relaxing on the sand of this beautiful beach. From here small boats leave for the Diapontian Islands, Othoni, Ereikousa and Mathraki. 516
A... Drastis who we admire and we are happy to see. CORFU PANORAMA 517
Southwest Corfu And here the greenery reaches the sea. And here the beaches are one better than the other. Manor houses, alleys, traditional houses, monuments, museums adorn and the southwest side of Corfu. Let’s take a look at all this in more detail. Kokkini was named after Kokkínis, to whom the area was given by the Venetians, for his participation, as governor of a galley in the battle of Lepanto. The mansion Kokkinis, built on a hill in the early 17th century, presents an outstanding architectural interest, is preserved in excellent condition and is inhabited. Vatos is built on the mountain of Ai-Giorgis, hidden from the sea because of the fear of pirates. Here are located two interesting churches: Agios Nikolaos with Byzantine frescoes of the 13th century and Agios Georgios, at the top of the hill with frescoes of the 14th and 15th century. Rocks covered with pine trees sloping almost vertically on a gorgeous limpid sea, when there are no waves, is the amazing landscape of Mirtiotissa. It was named after the monastery of Panagia Mirtidiotissa because her icon was found in the myrtles. The monastery is located on a green rock at the brink of a cliff and was founded in the 14th century. from a Christianized Turkish monk. Glyfada beach is also very nice, popular in youth. Tall hills with olive trees and pines are “embracing” the bay, located at the foot of the hill of Pelekas. Pelekas is a traditional village with its churches, narrow streets and the “hidden” courtyards. Built on top of an overgrown with olive trees, pine and cypress trees hill, is best known for the Kaiser’s Observatory, or else the “Kaiser’s Throne”, a site with panoramic views of the valley, but also the most famous sunset of the island. The Emperor William II used to gaze at the view from here. Here is located the traditional Museum of Greek Costumes and Corfiot Music. Local costumes, photographs and parts of costumes (buckles, sashes, etc.) of the 19th century are exhibited. Also there is file with recordings of traditional songs, hymns and chants related to the local tradition. 584
Fine sand that stretches in a wide extent in Glyfada beach. CORFU PANORAMA 585
Southeast Corfu Hot waters and a long beach in Moraitika. Sandy beaches, old salt marshes, historic villages, Byzantine and Venetian architecture and two unique natural phenomena: An olive tree with a history of 2.500 thousands of years and the plant Posidonia whose presence guarantees the absolute purity of the water. Let’s get to know and the southeastern Corfu. Kavos is the mainly busy and tourist destination of Corfu with intense nightlife. If you want peace and quiet, select the surrounding villages, which are amidst olive groves. From here depart boats for Paxi and Antipaxos. The beach of Kavos is long and sandy with a length of 3km with clear and shallow waters. Lefkimmi is in a picturesque town in lowland, amidst olive groves, vineyards and orchards. The river Chimaros flows through the town which empties in the beach of Boukas and in which “dοck” fishing boats. Here are the old salt marshes. The renovated Venetian buildings were warehouses of salt. Here are historical monasteries and churches, such as the monastery of “Kyra of Αngels” of 1698, built by the sons of Κapodistrias. The church of Agios Arsenios is housing the relics of the Saint, which was for centuries the patron saint of Corfu. The church of Agii Theodori stands out for its bell tower. In Rigglades you will see many old mansions. This settlement is dated back from the Byzantine period and was named after the Rigglis family, who used to live here. In Melikia you can visit the church of Agios Isavros with rare wall paintings of the 16th century. The beach of Boukas is located at the estuary of Chimaros, hence the name. It is a small, sandy beach, with characteristic vegetation at the background. Since the operation of the salt mines stopped in Alykes of Lefkimmi, in a beautiful natural environment, the beach of Alykes has been formed the last two decades. The sandy beach, clear waters and beautiful surroundings make it ideal for those seeking the tranquility of nature. Molos is a coastal village, built in a green olive grove. The beach of Molos has transparent, crystal-clear waters which deepen smoothly, fine sand and pebbles. 622
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“Green Jem” The port of Gaius “embraced” by land. Such charm of nature wouldn’t let mythology untouched. The myth says that the island is a work of the God of the sea, Poseidon. He flew his trident with all his strength and separated a part of Corfu to create his love nest with the Nereid Amphitrite and they had two children, Triton and Benthesikimi meaning deep wave. Etymologically the word Paxos -according to Stravonas- derived from the Phoenician word “Paks” which defines geometrically the shape of a trapezium. Paxi is like a perfume: tucked in a small bottle. But that does not diminish its value. On the contrary, it multiplies it. The same happens with this island. It is small, but its beauty is far greater than its extent. Once it was the “secret paradise” for deserted vacation. Today it attracts many visitors, but the “green jem of the Ionian Sea”, as it is called, has not lost anything of its magic and no idyllic scenery nor heritage has been altered. When talking about beautiful beaches, picturesque bays, rugged coastline, spectacular sea caves, age-old olives, pines, cypresses and bushes, we do not mean some of the landscapes of Paxi. We mean any place in Paxi. All these blend into a perfectly fitting set with the traditional settlements, churches, chapels and dry stacks. In the amazingly beautiful bays of Paxi numerous excursion boats dock enjoying the idyllic nature. Let’s get to know this tiny island better. Its capital is Gaius. It was named after the pupil of Apostle Paul, Gaius, one of the eighty wise men who were tasked with the translation of the Bible. According to tradition, he died here during a trip, after having taught to the island the word of God. The legend says that he is buried behind the altar of the church of Agii Apostoli. Small, but with a strong “personality” the capital of the island. Pastel and bold colors together, ochre in contrast with green and indigo next to the pelagic deep blue characterize Gaius. You will see the bust of George Anemogiannis, a captain who was killed by the Turks at Lepanto in 1821. 668
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“Beyond the Sea” Lot of sand but more serenity at the beach of Ereikoussa. The extremity of Greece to the west are the Diapontian Islands, three islands and several islets. Their name means that they are “beyond the Sea”, i.e. in the open sea. The first settlers arrived in the 16th century in Othoni. After the Battle of Lepanto, in 1571, some islanders left their residencies and settled here for safety. Later the settlers expanded and to the other two islands. Mathraki (Malthaki) Mathraki is a green dot surrounded by a white sandy beach, the smallest and southernmost of the Diapontian Islands with an extent of 3.1 km2. The two villages, Ano and Kato Mathraki are overlooking Corfu. There are two churches, St. Nikolaos and St. Spyridon. The port of the island is Plakes. A cement road leading to Benatika village with the breath- taking view. To the north, we head toward Ano Panta and the south to Kato Panta. Olive and cypress trees provide a dense shade. Karavi, Lipso and Plaka are three islets which, according to legend, are respectively a petrified pirate ship, its boat and its anchor. They were petrified by Saint Nikolaos when the pirates attempted to plunder his chapel on the island of Diapolos. On the northeast side, the beach Portelo is considered a paradise for divers and snorkeling. On the southern coasts you can swim in Fyki and Apidies with the beautiful sunset. Opposite Fyki is the island Trahia and further along we head to the old harbor, Kontraka. From the settlement Chorio, you will reach Cape Arvanitiko, a cove with white sand and calm waters. Othoni (Phanos) The largest island of the “gang” of Diapontian Islands are Othoni. Here the visitor can see dense vegetation, wild cypress trees and the beautiful, clean beaches that are ideal for those seeking a peaceful holiday. In only 10.8 km2, the visitor can understand what does “lost paradise” mean. 714
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