Seafood

The freshwater Freshwater bream bream has a generous covering of scales and is Abramis brama silver-bronze in color. Also known as carp bream, this fish is native to Europe and the Balkans. It is also found in the Caspian, Black, and Aral seas. It is usually landed at around 12in (30cm) long, but is known to grow to nearly three times this size. It produces white fillets that lack the earthiness of carp. Broil or bake with herbs, such as thyme or rosemary. The common carp has scales firmly attached to the body. Wash it to remove the slime, before scaling, otherwise it will be too slippery to handle. Common carp Cyprinus carpio Also known as mirror carp, spiegel, or leather carp, this fish has a brown back fading to a golden belly; sometimes it is a more silvery color. It has high flanks and, as with other coarse fish, a very thick slime that needs to be washed away prior to handling. This fish was traditionally soaked in acidulated water to help remove the slime and balance its slightly earthy flavor. It grows to 4ft (1.2m). Siberian sturgeon Acipenser baerii Farmed in France for its roe, this species is native to China and Russia. It has a brownish-gray back and a pale belly, and can grow up to 61⁄2ft (2m) long. The flesh is firm, meaty, and well-flavored. It is good for broiling, pan-frying, and grilling. (See fish roes on pages 390–391.) Carp | Sturgeon 349

Pike Esocidae A member of the Esocidae family, recipe makes the best of the flesh, FLAVOR PAIRINGS Unsalted butter, the pike is a predator that feeds on sage, lemon, cream, bay leaf, white other pike, smaller fish, birds, snakes, as the bones are dealt with prior and mammals (including mice and wine. rats). It is a freshwater fish, caught to serving. CLASSIC RECIPES Quenelles de commercially and by recreational CUTS Whole; fillets. brochet (pike quenelles); traditional fishermen. The pike is also known as EAT Cooked: Pan-fry, broil, steam, roast pike. the pickerel (usually used to describe poach, roast. Preserved: Smoked, smaller species), snoek, and jackfish. salted, dried, roe. Pike are found in the rivers of North America, Western Europe, Siberia, and Eurasia. There are several species, including the muskellunge pike (E. masquinongy), grass pickerel pike (E. americanus vermiculatus), and the northern pike (E. lucius). It is famously used in France for quenelles de brochet, a mousseline of sieved pike flesh with cream and egg white. Pike has a fine flavor, but contains many small bones. This Zander, Walleye, Perch, and American yellow perch Percidae The Percidae family of freshwater has been used to replenish stocks Walleye fish is found globally. Once eaten in some river systems. by those with no access to the CUTS Usually whole fish. Sander vitreus coast, many species are now less EAT Cooked: Pan-fry, broil, bake. Chefs often say that the walleye has frequently used for the table. They FLAVOR PAIRINGS Butter, herbs the best flavor of any freshwater fish. remain popular with recreational including chives, sage, rosemary, It grows to about 3ft (92cm) long and fishermen; commercial fishing and thyme, and bay leaf, lemon and its color depends on its habitat. The aquaculture are still viable in some white wine vinegar, cream, eggs. meat has few bones and is light and cases. Percids share the same fin CLASSIC RECIPES Perch: water flaky, with a mild taste. pattern: the first dorsal fin is spiny souchy (fish soup); Zander: matelote (the number of spines varies), the (fish stew from the Loire). All these second is soft. The family includes fish could be used for quenelles the zander, perch, ruffe, American and gefilte fish. yellow perch, silver perch, sauger, and walleye. The largest is the Remove the generous layer zander, a predatory fish found in of scales prior to fresh water; some are caught in brackish water. Native to Eastern gutting and cooking. Europe, it has also been introduced to Western Europe and the US. The perch (also known as the European perch or English perch), native to Europe and Asia, has been introduced to South Africa, New Zealand, and Australia. It is deep green with some stripes, scaly, and has red fins. In cool European waters, it rarely reaches more than 16in (40cm); it can reach a greater size in Australia. Another sought- after species, the walleye, is closely related to zander. It is native to Canada and the northern US. The walleye is not farmed, but for decades 350 Fish gallery—Round fish

The pike’s deep olive skin Northern pike with gold speckling provides camouflage Esox lucius among river weeds. This species is also known as jackfish. It has an elongated body and is thought to grow to up to 61⁄2ft (2m). It has a mild-tasting, white, and bony flesh. American yellow perch ▼ Perca flavescens Often thought to be a subspecies or hybrid of the European perch, the yellow perch is found in the US and Canada. It is paler in color than its European relative, and has a yellow tinge to its scales. It is known to have a fine flavor and its small size (it rarely reaches more than a couple of inches) makes it ideal for pan-frying. In restaurants, “perch” is a name widely used to describe both this and other species of fish, which can be confusing. The zander is a fierce and elusive game fish, with a long, elegant body. Zander Stizostedion lucioperca This fish can reach a weight of 44lb (20kg) and grow to 3ft (92cm). Its flesh has a fine flavor, with a herbaceous earthiness, which is particularly admired by the French—zander features in several dishes from the Loire Valley. Good broiled. Pike | Zander, Walleye, Perch, and American yellow perch 351



SUSTAINABILITY CHOICE Buy farmed mussels The development of some shellfish farming, particularly mussels, has been very positive. Set a small distance from the shore, the mussels grow like bunches of grapes on ropes or wooden stakes placed in the water. After around three years the mussels are harvested—a process that causes minimal harm to the environment. Fish meal is not used, because the mussels feed on naturally occurring nutrients in the water to develop a wonderful sweet flavor. As a species that are at the bottom of the food chain, they are one of the world’s most sustainable seafoods.

Trout, Char, and Grayling Salmonidae This group of fish is extensive and returning to their natal river to in size and appearance to trout. Lake FLAVOR PAIRINGS Classical French: an important food globally. The spawn. Trout can have an earthy char (Salvelinus namaycush) reach white wine vinegar, butter, lemon, species are all rich in oil. The pink taste, because they feed over muddy around 9lb (4kg) in weight; the Arctic chives, almonds, hazelnuts. color of the flesh is the result of a riverbeds. Farmed fish may be reared char can reach over 13lb (6kg). The CLASSIC RECIPES Trout in diet of crustaceans that have a with a gravel bed and then purged in grayling (Thymallus thymallus) is breadcrumbs; trout with Serrano naturally occurring caryatid pigment. clean water prior to harvest, in order a popular game fish in Europe and ham; trout with almonds; truite Farmed fish are sometimes given a to prevent this. Indigenous North North America. It has a distinct au bleu (poached immediately on chemical substitute to replicate this. American trout include the rainbow, aroma of fresh thyme when landed. capture in an acidulated bouillon, Some species of trout are used for Dolly Varden, and brook trout. Other It is not harvested commercially. and turns blue); potted char. aquaculture or to stock trout lakes. popular species include lake trout CUTS Whole, gutted, fillets, roe. Most trout spend their lives in fresh (Salmo trutta lacustris), golden trout EAT Cooked: Pan-fry, bake, broil, waters around the world; others are (S. aguabonita), and the cut-throat roast. Preserved: Hot- and cold- anadromous and migrate to the sea, trout (S. clarki). The char is similar smoked, salted roe. Rainbow trout ▲ The rainbow trout has a bright, silvery skin with Oncorhynchus mykiss rainbow-hued speckles. The North American rainbow trout was introduced into Europe at the end of the 19th century. It grows quickly and is farmed extensively. In European waters, wild fish rarely grow bigger than 22lb (10kg); in the US they can be twice this size. It can be cooked whole and then gutted, or as fillets. Its very fine bones can be difficult to locate. Once cooked, rainbow trout fillet breaks into neat flakes and has a herbaceous flavor. The brown trout has a pale skin with chocolate-brown and orange speckles across its flanks. Brown trout ▲ Salmo trutta Indigenous to the rivers of Europe, the brown trout is not fished from the wild commercially; it is farmed in small quantities, particularly organically, and can grow to up to 33lb (15kg). Wild fish are usually much smaller and are often extremely earthy in flavor. Farmed fish tend to be more delicate and sweet. Make the most of the flavor of this fish by wrapping it with bunches of mixed herbs and grilling it. 354 Fish gallery—Round fish

The Arctic char has light Arctic char spots on a dark background; its color varies according to Salvelinus alpinus habitat and time of the year. These fish are also known as mountain trout and salmon trout. Some are landlocked in deep glacial lakes, specifically the Lake District in the north of England, where they were trapped at the end of the last ice age. Farmed fish are harvested at about 61⁄2lb (3kg) in weight. The flesh is less earthy than that of trout, with an aroma of thyme and cut grass. Excellent poached and potted with butter, mace, and citrus; serve on Melba toast. Robust herbs, such as sage, rosemary, and parsley marry well with the sweet, flaky texture of Arctic char. Brook trout Salvelinus fontinalis Also known as brook char, speckled trout, red trout, and squaretail. Its color is green to brown with a distinctive marbling. It grows up to 251⁄2in (65cm), and its white-to-yellow meat is very tasty. The shiny silver skin of sea Sea trout trout is interspersed with black and green dots Salmo trutta toward the fish’s back. Sea trout, also commonly known as salmon trout, is the migratory form of the brown trout. It has a particularly sweet and fine flavor that is not as intense as that of salmon. Poach it whole or in fillets, and serve with hollandaise sauce and lemon. Trout, Char, and Grayling 355

Atlantic salmon Salmonidae Salmon are found in both Atlantic Alternatives to Atlantic salmon Atlantic salmon ▲ and Pacific waters. The salmon is include organically farmed or anadromous, spending part of its life responsibly sourced trout or a Pacific Salmo salar cycle in fresh water, and part in the salmon species, such as sockeye. Salmon may be described as fry, smelt, sea. Only one species is found in the CUTS Whole, fillets, steaks, head, roe. parr, grilse, or kelt, depending on the Atlantic. Most Atlantic salmon is EAT Cooked: Pan-fry, poach, broil, stage of its life cycle and whether it’s now farmed in Scotland and Norway. bake. Head often used as a base in fresh water or the sea. Farmed fish Japan consumes one-third of the for soup. Raw: Frozen and sold for are sold at 8–10lb (3.5–4.5kg). The flesh world’s salmon, but it is also enjoyed sushi and sashimi. Preserved: is firm, moist, and oily with a delicate in many European countries and Hot- (kiln-roasted salmon) and flavor. To cook a whole salmon, worldwide. Wild salmon and farmed cold-smoked. Salted roe used as measure the thickest part of its girth species are quite different. Farmed keta, a caviar substitute. with a piece of string. For each 1in fish can be of excellent quality and FLAVOR PAIRINGS Lemon, butter, dill, (2.5cm), calculate 4 minutes cooking flavor, with a good balance of oil. samphire, tarragon, ginger, sorrel, time at 450°F (230°C). It will be sweet SUSTAINABILITY The high demand kecap manis. and succulent. for the “king of fish”, the wild CLASSIC RECIPES Poached salmon Atlantic salmon, has led to with hollandaise sauce; gravadlax; In the sea, the overexploitation and many fishing salmon coulibiac (Russia); traditional chinook salmon has a bans are now in place. Once prolific, poached and dressed whole salmon. greeny blue back with a wild specimen of Atlantic salmon lots of small, dark spots. has become a rare sight and it subsequently fetches a very high price. The aquaculture of the Atlantic salmon became a big commercial enterprise during the 1980s and it caused much controversy at its inception, as there were many environmental issues to overcome. Atlantic salmon fillets are particularly good roasted, grilled, or pan-fried. Pacific salmon Salmonidae There are several species of Pacific Pacific from the Anadyr River in Chinook salmon salmon, including the chinook (king), Russia, south toward Hokkaido in sockeye, chum, coho, pink, and Japan; from Alaska to Baja California Oncorhynchus tshawytscha Japanese cherry salmon. They are and Mexico. It has a fine-textured Also called the king, Pacific, spring, prolific species and although there flesh and full flavor. The Japanese black, quinnat, and chub salmon. is some farming, they are caught cherry salmon (O. masou) is also It can grow to 5ft (1.5m); the usual commercially by many countries of known as masu. It is caught in the size is 27in (70cm). It is caught in the Pacific Rim, particularly Alaska northwest Pacific, the Sea of Okhotsk, the Arctic, and Northwest to and Canada. Unlike the Atlantic and the Sea of Japan. Northeast Pacific from Alaska down salmon, which can return to the river CUTS Whole, fillets, steaks. to California and Japan. This fish after spawning, Pacific species die. EAT Cooked: Poach, pan-fry, has a similar oil-rich texture and The chum salmon (Oncorhynchus microwave, broil, bake, steam. flesh to Atlantic salmon and suits keta) (MSC certified) is also known Preserved: Smoked, roe, dried, salted, the same methods of cooking. as dog salmon, keta salmon, qualla, frozen, canned. calico salmon, hum, and fall salmon. FLAVOR PAIRINGS Asian flavors: It is abundant in the North Pacific, in cilantro, soy sauce, sesame, chile, the waters of Korea and Japan, and lime. Excellent for plank cooking. the Bering Sea. It is also found in CLASSIC RECIPES Salmon Arctic Alaska and south to San Diego coulibiac (Russia); salmon in California. The flesh is canned, sashimi; poached and dried, and salted; the roe is also used. dressed salmon; Pink salmon (O. gorbuscha) is also squaw candy. known as humpback salmon and gorbuscha. This is the smallest Pacific salmon (it averages 5lb/2.25kg) and is found in the Arctic and Northwest to Eastern Central Pacific Ocean. Coho (O. kisutch) (MSC certified) is also known as silver salmon, blueback, medium red salmon, jack salmon, and silverside. Growing to around 43in (110cm), it is found in the North 356 Fish gallery—Round fish

A wild Atlantic salmon has iron-gray skin along the back with black specks and well-developed fins. Farmed fish are likely to be more speckled and often have malformed fins. Sockeye ▶ Oncorhynchus nerka Also known as red and blueback salmon. Caught in the North Pacific, this is one of the most commercially important species and can grow up to 33in (84cm). It can take a little longer to cook than an Atlantic fish; the lack of fat also means that it can dry out: baste or use a marinade to keep it moist. The chinook salmon is a little leaner than the Atlantic salmon. It is succulent and sweet, and good for broiling, pan-frying, and baking. The sockeye’s closely knit, lean, meaty, dense flesh is a deep orange from the crustaceans in its diet. A chinook resembles the Atlantic salmon more closely than any of the other Pacific species. Atlantic salmon | Pacific salmon 357

Needlefish and Flying fish The billfish family of needlefish (also Atlantic, Pacific, and Indian oceans. CUTS Whole, fillets, roe (tobiko). Atlantic needlefish ▼ known as garfish) is related to that It uses its long pectoral fins, which EAT Cooked: Pan-fry. Preserved: of the flying fish. The needlefish (from are similar to a bird’s wing, to Dried. Raw: Sushi. Strongylura marina the Belonidae family) are slender, escape predators by leaping out of FLAVOR PAIRINGS Okra, corn meal, Caught in the Western Atlantic elongated fish found in fresh water, the water up to 164ft (50m). It can chile, onion, garlic, peppers. from Maine to the Gulf of brackish, and marine environments, leap much further if there is updraft Mexico and Brazil. It grows with around 45 species in all. It on a wave and the fish vibrates its CLASSIC RECIPES Cou cou (national to 4ft (1.2m) and has a sweet, has a long beak containing many tail. An ingenious way of fishing for dish of flying fish from Barbados). succulent, white flesh. sharp teeth for a jaw, and is found it is by holding nets in the air. These in temperate and tropical waters fish have long, slim fillets that are worldwide. It makes small jumps generally pale gray with a sweet out of the water to escape predators. taste and delicate texture. It is often caught at night, when it is attracted to the surface by lanterns and flashlights. The flying fish, a member of the Exocoetidae family, is a marine fish with around 64 species. It is found mainly in tropical and subtropical waters of the In fresh water, eels are Eel Anguillidae stocks, but this has done little to a deep emerald green; in brackish water they There are 22 known members of halt the decline. There is no close revert to dark brown the eel group. They have a long, and silver. slithering, snake-like body. The eel alternative, but you could use an is a catadromous fish: it is spawned European eel in the sea and moves to fresh water oil-rich species such as mackerel. to mature, then returns to the sea CUTS Live, whole; smoked whole Anguilla anguilla to spawn, after which it dies. Eels and in fillets. This species usually grows to about live in temperate, tropical, and EAT Cooked: Broil, pan-fry, bake, 311⁄2in (80cm). Eels are popular for subtropical waters worldwide. They poach (for jellied eels). eating at various stages in their life. have a distinct spawning ground, Preserved: Smoked, dried. Bootlace eels or elvers are usually depending on the species. Eels have FLAVOR PAIRINGS Bay leaf, vinegar, deep-fried—a delicacy in parts of firm and rich-tasting flesh, and an apples, red and white wine, allspice Europe. Smoked eel is also a delicacy oily texture. and the eel’s very oily flesh is especially SUSTAINABILITY There has been berries, cloves, mint, parsley, cream. suitable for hot-smoking. For cooking a massive decline in eels over recent CLASSIC RECIPES Jellied eels; fresh, eels are usually skinned as soon years, which is attributed not only matelote d’anguille (France); as they have been killed, then gutted to overfishing but also to pollution. deep-fried elvers; anguilla allo and cut into steaks or fillets. For They are listed as critically spiedo (Italy); eel and bay leaf smoking, they are often left whole. endangered. Some species are kebabs; bisato sull’ara; fried eel; They have a very distinctive firm, extensively farmed in Northern capitone marinato (Italy). slightly rubbery, and oil-rich texture. Europe and Asia, to try to take the pressure off the wild 358 Fish gallery

Garfish ▲ Belone belone The garfish is also known as the garpike, hornpike, or greenbone. It is famous for its luminous green bone structure. It is widely distributed in the Northeast Atlantic and the Mediterranean. (There is another group of fish found in North American waters that are considered to be “true gars”—Lepisosteidae.) Garfish grows to about 18in (46cm) long. It is used both fresh and frozen. Try it fried, broiled, and baked. It has a delicate taste and a fine, flaky texture. The Atlantic needlefish Japanese flying fish ▲ has a silvery skin; its needle-shaped body does Cheilopogon agoo not contain an extensive Flying fish are a popular commercial fish for Japan, Vietnam, Indonesia, amount of meat. India, and Barbados (where it is the national fish although it has been overfished in this area). Japanese flying fish grow to 14in (35cm) long and have a subtle flavor; the flesh is quite meaty and firm. Best seasoned and then grilled or fried. Their golden roe is used to garnish sushi. Moray eel and Conger eel Conger eels have a There are over 190 known species in particularly noted for their eating smooth, scaleless the conger group of eels and 200 quality: most are caught as a by-catch skin. The body tapers species of moray eels (from the or for sport. Some conger eels are toward the tail. Muraenidae and Congridae groups over 10ft (3m) long and weigh well respectively), caught in many over 220lb (100kg). They are ferocious The tail end of a conger eel oceans worldwide. They are not predators, with sharp, snappy teeth is notoriously bony so it is —so handle live fish with extreme best used for stock. Conger eel caution. The largest and most prolific conger is the American conger Conger conger (Conger oceanicus). The Japanese Found in the Eastern Atlantic from Norway to Senegal; serve a delicacy of raw baby conger also in the Mediterranean and Black Sea. It can reach over eels, called noresore, often with 9ft 10in (3m) long. This fish has a sweet, almost pork-like ponzu sauce. Moray eels are found flavor and is best simply broiled with a flavored butter. in tropical and subtropical waters. It has an extremely dense texture and is also perfect for As adults they are usually vividly pan-frying or casseroling. It takes strong flavors, such marked and have the long, slender as smoked paprika and spices, well. body of other eels. They are well known for their sharp teeth, poor eyesight, and excellent sense of smell. As a fierce predator, they are known to attack humans if disturbed. All eels are popular in South American, Japanese, and Chinese cookery; smoked eel is a European delicacy. SUSTAINABILITY Conger eels have been overfished. There are no close alternatives, but monkfish has a similar firm texture. CUTS Whole, gutted, or cut into steaks. EAT Cooked: Pan-fry, bake. Preserved: Smoked, dried, sometimes jellied. FLAVOR PAIRINGS Onions, paprika, smoked paprika, chile, peppers, olive oil, red wine, parsley. CLASSIC RECIPES Caldeirada (Portugese fish stew); fried eel. Moray eel and Conger eel 359

Shark, Skate, and Ray Several thousand species of shark, FLAVOR PAIRINGS Shark: Beer batter, Smoothhound from many families, are found globally, tartar sauce, soy, sesame oil, ginger, from the Great White to the dogfish. and chile. Skate: Vinegar, capers, Mustelus mustelus They often find their way to fish and parsley, lemon juice, butter. Also known as flake and rock salmon, smoothhound, from the chip shop menus in the UK, where CLASSIC RECIPES Skate with beurre Triakidae family, is very similar to dogfish and huss. This small they are sold as rock salmon, flake, noisette; skate with beurre noir shark variety usually grows to around 20in (50cm) and lives and in the EU, huss. They are and capers. in coastal waters worldwide. Once the shark is fully mature, available whole, skinned, and boned. it ventures out into deeper water. The variety has been heavily Skates and rays belong to the Rajidae overfished and there is a strict catch quota in place. The flesh family and are related to the sharks. is firm and meaty with a very distinctive, almost pork-like taste. They are found in all oceans from the It is great deep-fried, pan-fried, or used in stir fries. Arctic to the Antarctic. They are flat and their large pectoral fins or Ray, like sharks, are “wings” give them a rhomboid shape. cartilaginous with only The mouth and gills are on the a central cartilage and underside of the body and the eggs no bone. are laid in a leathery capsule known as a mermaid’s purse. Their skin can be challenging to remove without pliers and gloves. Such species expel their urea through the gills and if incorrectly stored, smell strongly of ammonia. If a fish smells of ammonia, do not buy it. The wings of skates and rays take longer to cook than most thin white fillets. They have an unusual fibrous texture and taste herbaceous. A thick piece of cartilage at the shoulder end of the fillet comes loose when the fish is cooked. SUSTAINABILITY There has been a decline in the stocks of some shark species, which like the Great White, are now protected. They have been overfished for their use in Chinese medicine, and the Chinese classic, shark fin soup. Skates have also been overexploited in many areas. They are subject to a fishing quota and the landing of some species in designated areas is banned. Alternatives include responsibly sourced monkfish. CUTS Shark: Fresh and frozen, fillets, whole. Skate: Wings, “knobs” (muscles taken from the back of the fish). EAT Cooked: Shark: Pan-fry, broil, roast, deep-fry. Skate: Pan-fry, deep-fry, poach, roast. Preserved: Shark: Smoked and dried. Thornback ray Raja clavata Also known as roker, thorny, and maiden ray, the thornback ray is caught in the Eastern Atlantic, from Iceland, Norway, the North Sea and the Baltic, south to Morocco and Namibia, including the Mediterranean and the Black Sea. Most thornback rays grow to 331⁄2in (85cm). The back of the fish is different shades of brown with variegated dark spots. There are some responsibly sourced rays available. It has a strong taste and is best poached, baked, or dusted with seasoned flour and pan-fried. The dense flesh of a ray wing takes 10–12 minutes to poach. 360 Fish gallery—Round fish/flat fish

Plaice and Sole Pleuronectidae The Pleuronectidae group (the name a legal-minimum landing size. There Lemon sole means “side swimmers”—these are are some MSC-certified sources. flat fish) includes plaice, some CUTS Usually gutted on landing. Sold Microstomus kitt flounders, halibut, and some types of whole (head on or off), cross-cut and Also known as smear dab and Scottish sole, such as lemon sole (Microstomus quarter-cross fillets, skin on or off. sole, lemon sole is caught in shallow kitt), petrale sole (Eopsetta jordani), EAT Cooked: Pan-fry, poach, seas in Northern Europe. Its usual size rex sole (Glyptocephalus zachirus), deep-fry, bake. is 10–12in (25–30cm). A very fresh fish and North Pacific sole (Eopsetta FLAVOR PAIRINGS Seasoned flour, has a heavy coating of creamy slime, grigorjewi). True sole belong to the butter, lemon, parsley, breadcrumbs, unlike other fresh, flat fish, which have Soleidae group. All are demersal sage, chestnut mushrooms, a clear slime. It has a sweet, mild taste fish and have white flesh; the main lingonberry, potato. and delicate texture. concentration of oil is in the liver. CLASSIC RECIPES Plaice/lemon sole They are fished in Europe, North meunière; sole Véronique. Lemon sole is good simply rolled in flour America, and in the northern Pacific. and pan-fried, broiled, or poached. When a flat fish hatches, it is a tiny, round fish; as it grows, it turns on to Lemon sole can be its left or right side and the eyes move identified by lemon to one side of the head. Most flat fish piping (a strip of are dextral, with eyes on the right yellow flesh) around side. The fish use the seabed to hide the gill flap. and have highly camouflaged skin on the upper body to enable Plaice them to blend into their habitat. The underside of a wild fish is Pleuronectes platessa pearlescent white, helping it to This plaice is common in European waters, and is the blend in with its environment if most popular flat fish in Europe, with a mild taste and fine viewed from underneath. These fish texture. It has a distinct “wrist” at the tail and a bony ridge have a delicate taste and texture. from the head to the gills. The underside is white with They are usually gutted on landing, enabling the fish to retain quality. chevron markings that indicate the pattern of muscle Most flat fish have a heavy coating bands. It can grow to 24in (60cm), but this is rare. of slime that is usually clear. As the It is best from May to December/January. fish loses condition, the slime becomes sticky and discolored and this indicates that it is past its best. SUSTAINABILITY All of these species are heavily targeted in many countries and are subject to Some species have a Plaice have a greenish- weak electrical organ in brown skin and orange their long, slender tail. or rusty-green spots. Plaice and Sole 361

Plaice and Sole Continued Petrale sole ▶ The upper surface of the petrale sole is a uniform Eopsetta jordani The petrale sole is also known as Pacific coast sole and light to dark brown. regarded as one of the finest sole in that region. It is usually caught at around 12in (30cm). It is found in the Eastern Pacific, from the coast of Alaska to northern Baja California and Mexico. It is usually skinned and filleted for sale. It has a sweet flesh that is best pan-fried. Petrale sole’s head is deep with large eyes on the right side. The fish is white in color on the blind side. White, flaky fillets of petrale sole can be deep-fried, pan-fried, or broiled. The witch produces very slim The skin of the Atlantic fillets. It’s best to trim the head halibut is a uniform dark brown to black; young fish and fins when cooking whole. are often marbled. Dab ▶ ▲ Witch Limanda limanda Dabs are found in abundance in the Northeast Glyptocephalus cynoglossus Atlantic. It is one of the smaller flat fish and can Also known as gray flounder and occasionally grow to around 16in (40cm), but 12in (30cm) is marketed as Torbay sole. The witch is found more common. The white flesh of a dab is best in the Eastern Atlantic, from Northern Spain to eaten fresh, but has very little flavor. It is small, Northern Norway, and in the Western Atlantic so is usually trimmed and cooked whole on the from Canada to North Carolina in the US. It bone. Also sold dried, salted, and smoked. grows up to 2ft (60cm) long and has a subtle flavor. Best baked whole; or filleted, rolled in 362 Fish gallery—Flat fish seasoned flour, pan-fried in butter and then finished with a splash of lemon. Dabs are usually pale brown with darker colored blotches.

Halibut Pleuronectidae Sometimes called the “Cow of the specimens have been recorded to overfishing. Wild Atlantic halibut poach, bake. Preserved: Dried, salted, Sea”, this fish is the largest of all the as weighing over 700lb (330kg). has been overexploited and there cold-smoked. flat fish. A handful of halibut species However, most landed today would is a minimum landing size and strict FLAVOR PAIRINGS Butter, seasoned are caught in Atlantic and Pacific not exceed 24–30lb (11–13.5kg). This regulations for catch quota in flour, nutmeg, pickles, capers, lemon. waters, and are highly regarded. As fish has a dense, white, firm-textured many areas. It is better to choose CLASSIC RECIPES Poached halibut with all flat fish, halibut vary in color flesh and has become so sought after the farmed or Pacific species as with hollandaise sauce; broiled depending on the seabed that they that it is now extensively farmed to an alternative. inhabit; the top side provides meet high demand. CUTS Large fish: steaks/cutlets; Small halibut with beurre blanc. camouflage. A wild fish can reach SUSTAINABILITY Halibut mature fish: whole, fillets, also called fletches. mammoth proportions: some slowly, making them very susceptible EAT Cooked: Steam, pan-fry, broil, Atlantic halibut ▼ The wild halibut has an even covering of clear Hippoglossus hippoglossus slime and farmed fish may This fish can reach up to 15ft (4.5m) in length. be covered in an inky slime. It is found in the Eastern and Western Atlantic, and is extensively farmed. The fish is moist and very lean with a sweet, mild taste; the lack of fat makes it easy to over-cook, as it dries easily. A halibut’s cheeks can be harvested, as they are sweet and succulent. The fins are a deep red-purple color and the skin can be olive green, brown, or almost black, with a white underside. ◀ Pacific halibut Hippoglossus stenolepis The Pacific halibut is no less impressive than the Atlantic species, but with a maximum size of 8ft 2in (2.5m) long. Found in the North Pacific: the North Pacific fishery of halibut is one of the largest and most valuable fisheries for that area. Pacific halibut is noted for its dense, firm, and low-fat white fillets, which have a milder taste than Atlantic halibut. It is best served broiled or pan-fried with a flavored butter. Pacific halibut produces thick, white, flaky fillets with a light flavor. Halibut 363

Sole Soleidae Found in waters worldwide, the “true” responsibly sourced turbot, lemon sole includes around 165 species. sole, or plaice as alternatives. They have a long, slipper-shaped CUTS Usually gutted and sold whole, body with small eyes, mouth, and trimmed and skinned, and in fillets. tail. Some members have attractive EAT Cooked: Broil, pan-fry. markings and patterns; most have a FLAVOR PAIRINGS Lemon, butter, unique coarse skin texture—similar seasoned flour, cucumber, mint, to a cat’s tongue—if stroked from shiitake mushrooms, mushrooms, tail to head. The maximum length is truffle oil, capers, parsley. around 271⁄2in (70cm). These species CLASSIC RECIPES Sole colbert; lemon of fish are dextral, with eyes on the sole Doria; broiled Dover sole with right side of the head. The white flesh anchovy butter; sole Véronique. has a subtle and distinctive flavor. SUSTAINABILITY Dover sole is Dover sole popular in Europe, in the restaurant trade. This has lead to overfishing. Solea vulgaris A strict size for landed fish is in place, Also known as common sole, tongue, or slip sole (a small specimen), as is a catch quota. Look for MSC- Dover sole can be expensive. It grows up to 271⁄2in (70cm) and is certified fishery Dover sole or try caught in the Eastern Atlantic and farmed on a small scale. It has very firm and slightly rubbery white flesh; full-flavored. It is best when well past rigor mortis, as flavor and texture develop properly. Turbot, Brill, and Megrim Scophthalimidae The family includes turbot, brill, Turbot megrim, and a species called topknots. They are found in many temperate Psetta maxima seas of the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. Also known as britt, butt, breet, it’s one of the most Turbot and brill are a valuable species expensive of all flat fish and highly sought after. It is found and highly commercial. They are in the northeast Atlantic, throughout the Mediterranean sinistral fish, with their eyes on the and along the European coasts to the Arctic Circle. It left side of the head. They can have grows up to 3ft (1m) long. The flesh is meaty and, unlike a similar colored skin, but there are other white fish, holds together well enough for stir-frying. differences. Turbot is almost circular It’s also good for poaching, pan-frying, and broiling. in shape and the dark eye-side has It’s often sold cut into thick steaks with the backbone no scales but large, sharp tubercles. running through the steak. It has a rounded and It is farmed extensively. Although the recognizable, very fine and sweet flavor. flesh has a flaky texture, it holds its shape well and so is versatile. Brill is Turbot is firm, white, dense and suitable Wild turbot varies from oval in shape and has scales, but no for various cooking methods. dark mottled brown to tubercles. Like many other species, it adapts its color to its habitat. The gray; farmed fish are megrim is noted for its large mouth light gray-green to that extends into a tube. It is a dark gray-black. popular food in southern Europe, particularly Spain. Megrim is best The megrim has a glassy, eaten very fresh; it needs seasoning, light brown skin and and butter or olive oil to prevent it a white underside. from drying out. SUSTAINABILITY Turbot and brill have Megrim a maximum catch quota in place, and landed fish must be of a minimum size. Lepidorhombus whiffiagonis Alternatives can be responsibly Also known as meg, sale fluke, sourced lemon sole, plaice, and Scarborough sole, or whiff, megrim is a responsibly farmed or sourced halibut. deep-water fish living in the Northeast CUTS Whole and head on; trimmed; Atlantic. It is commonly found at 10in fillets (depending on species). Large (25cm) long. Best trimmed and cooked turbots may be cut into steaks. whole on the bone; it has a similar EAT Cooked: Steam, pan-fry, crust, flavor to plaice and is flaky, delicate, bake, roast, broil. and low in fat. Suits subtle flavors such FLAVOR PAIRINGS Wild mushrooms, as butter and mild herbs. champagne, cream, butter, shellfish stock, lemon, Gruyère cheese, Parmesan. CLASSIC RECIPE Poached turbot with oysters and champagne. 364 Fish gallery—Flat fish

The sand sole has Sand sole yellow-brown skin with pale blotches and looks Pegusa lascaris similar to the Dover sole. Also known as snouted sole, lascar, and Atlantic sole, sand sole is found in the North and Southeastern Atlantic, the Mediterranean, and the Black Sea. It lacks the superior flavor of the Dover sole. It is of minor commercial importance, but is available. Skin the fish whole and cook on the bone. The fish has an oval body Brill ▼ Brill has a superb fine, white, flaky texture. up to 16in (40cm) in length It is best pan-fried, broiled, or roasted. Scophthalmus rhombus with smoothly curving Also known as kite and pearl. Brill reaches dorsal and anal fins. a maximum length of 30in (75cm). It lives in the Eastern Atlantic, from Iceland to Morocco, A turbot has a lot throughout the Black Sea and the Mediterranean. of sharp nodules At one time it was underrated, now it’s well on its skin, known regarded. It has an equally fine, sweet flavor as turbercles. to turbot, but is more flaky. Brill is a sandy, greenish-brown. The young fish are dark brown. It is often flecked with white. Sole | Turbot, Brill, and Megrim 365

Abalone Haliotidae Abalone is considered a rare delicacy it toughens easily. Add dried abalone and gourmet food. It is harvested to soup and simmer for a long period from the wild and from aquaculture of time to add flavor. in many coastal waters in oceans FLAVOR PAIRINGS Asian: Chinese worldwide. There are about 100 ear mushrooms, sesame, soy sauce, species of this sea snail, which vary ginger, garlic, butter. greatly in size. The well-flavored CLASSIC RECIPE Abalone with meat is found in an ear-shaped shell. oyster sauce. Abalone is also known as ormer, sea-ear, ear-shell, Venus’s ears, Red abalone perlemoen (South Africa), muttonfish (Australia), and paua (New Zealand). Haliotis rufescens Abalone attach to rocky surfaces This species is the most readily using a very strong suction action, available, and the largest of the and live off green algae. abalone group. Found in the Pacific SUSTAINABILITY Some abalone from Oregon to Baja California, and grow slowly; overharvesting has Mexico; harvested with restrictions. reduced some stocks and increased Sear briefly: if overcooked, it prices. Although abalone’s texture becomes tough. It has a sweet, is somewhat unique, whelks and meaty, and strong seafood flavor. limpets are similarly chewy. AVAILABILITY Fresh: Sold in the The foot or muscle is the main shell. Preserved: Frozen meat/steaks part eaten. Remove the meat (ready tenderized), canned, dried from the shell and pound it (used for flavoring soups), salted. before searing briefly. EAT Tenderize by pounding before cooking. Sauté or fry very briefly, as Conch Strombidae The queen conch (Strombus gigas) EAT Wild conch needs to be sliced is one of many species of saltwater thinly, then tenderized with a mallet. gastropods. It is also known as the Cooked: Roast, broil, pan- and stir-fry, pink or Caribbean conch (pronounced sauté, steam. Raw: Marinate in lime conk). The main suppliers and juice and chile as ceviche. consumers are Jamaica, Honduras, FLAVOR PAIRINGS Onion, garlic, and the Dominican Republic. Conch peppers, tomato, jalapeño, hot sauce, has an intense flavor. cilantro, cayenne. SUSTAINABILITY Although this CLASSIC RECIPES Conch fritters; species was once abundant, conch chowder. commercial harvesting is now banned in the US. Alternatives The meat, which has a dark include responsibly sourced abalone membrane, is prized from or whelks and limpets, which are the shell as a whole piece much cheaper alternatives. AVAILABILITY Wild: Frozen, chopped, and can be up to 12in (30cm) ground. Farmed: Fresh, prepared, long. Good-quality conch is frozen. Farmed conch are generally creamy white with hints of more tender. pink and orange; if it is discolored, gray, and smells strongly, do not buy it. Queen conch Once extracted from the decorative shell, Eustrombus gigas conch meat can be This conch is farmed in the Calicos marinated and eaten Islands making it more available year round. In the Caribbean, dried raw, or cooked by or ground conch is used in fritters, various methods. pan-fried for salads, and as a base for chowder. The taste is sweet with a rubbery, jellied texture. 366 Fish gallery—Shellfish

Periwinkle, Whelk, and Murex Sea snails in the form of periwinkles, shucked; pickled in vinegar and To enhance the color whelks, and murex are found in canned. In the US, they are sold of the greenish-black waters worldwide. They are cooked, shucked, and trimmed. shell, roll periwinkles considered to be a delicacy by a small EAT Rinse in salt water before in a little oil before number of consumers, but the limited boiling. Cook periwinkles for 3–5 serving to give sales have led some to decline in minutes in the shell, whelks for the shell a gloss. availability. Periwinkles, or winkles 12–15 minutes, murex for 10–12 (from the Littorinidae group), and minutes (see page 281). The Angulate periwinkle whelks are enjoyed in northern operculum (the horny “foot”) is Europe and form a part of a traditional not eaten: trim this off. If desired, Littorina angulifera Sunday dinner in London’s East End. coat in crumbs and pan-fry. These tiny snails are popular in Europe and often There are around 180 species, but FLAVOR PAIRINGS Chili vinegar, harvested by hand, ensuring that little damage is done to only a few of these are eaten. In the malt vinegar, salt, lemon juice. their habitat. It is traditionally served as part of a seafood UK, whelk refers to species from the CLASSIC RECIPES Periwinkles in platter and its intense flavor combines sweet and salty Buccinidae family. Whelks are also the shell with malt vinegar and tastes. It’s prone to be gritty, so rinse well. popular in North America, where salt; periwinkle and watercress species from the Melongenidae group sandwiches. are harvested. Whelks have a distinct salty, seafood taste and are often likened to clam meat. They are tough and very meaty. Murex are another family of small sea snails from the Muricidae group. They are only found in the coastal areas and specialist fish markets of Mediterranean countries. Murex taste similar to whelks but the meat is reputedly tougher. AVAILABILITY In the shell, both raw and cooked. Winkles: fresh, frozen, Murex shells are Murex ◀▶ often collected Murex brandaris because of their The Mediterranean murex has been beauty: they are fat a popular delicacy for many centuries; and spiny, tapering it was also collected to harvest a rare to a tail-like point. purple dye. The flavor is similar to that of a whelk; it needs gentle cooking, as Many gastropods it can be tough. In the South of France, have a horny foot that murex make a classic addition to a fruits de mer platter. needs to be trimmed away or removed Common northern whelk after cooking. Buccinum undatum The whelk group of shellfish has hundreds of members in waters worldwide. They are carnivores and scavengers. In Europe, the common northern whelk, found in the North Atlantic, is eaten. It is 2–4in (5–10cm) long and caught year-round in baited pots. This species is best during the summer. Periwinkle, Whelk, and Murex 367

Clams and Cockles There are hundreds of types of clam include steamer clam, soft-shell clam, edge. The amande comes from the raw with lemon juice, also for and cockles found in waters and Ipswich clam. The geoduck Glycimeridae group. chowder. Razor clams: In the shell, worldwide. They are a well-utilized (pronounced gooeyduck) clam is also AVAILABILITY Fresh: Live in the shell, broiled, or steamed. Removed from food source and create an important known as the piss clam (due to its shucked as prepared meat. Preserved: shell, raw in ceviche, or pan-fried. income for many countries. Clams are long siphon) or horse clam. It is the Frozen, brined, canned. FLAVOR PAIRINGS Cream, onion, particularly popular in parts of Europe, largest clam in the world, and is also EAT Large clams: Chopped or minced herbs, white wine, tomatoes, garlic, the US, and Asia. The Veneridae group thought to be the longest-living in chowder; Smaller specimens: parsley, bacon, chiles. has hard, tough shells, and names for animal in the world. Surf clams come shucked and enjoyed raw. Hard-shell: CLASSIC RECIPES Manhattan clam the species include Venus clam, from the Mactridae group, and there Raw or steamed open to add to soups. chowder (tomato-based); carpetshell clam, hard-shell clam, are several related species. The Soft-shell: Siphon sliced or minced for New England clam chowder and quahog. The Myidae group have Solenidae group includes razor or chowder, or thinly sliced for sushi. (cream-based); linguine alle a soft, thin, and brittle shell structure. jackknife clams that are harvested Body meat sliced, tenderized, and vongole; stuffed clams. Species are found in both the Pacific worldwide. They resemble a cut- pan-fried or sautéd. In the shell: and Atlantic oceans. The species throat razor and have a razor-sharp Steamed. Removed from shell: Served The shell of a cockle is Cockle corrugated. Use them as soon as possible, as they Cerastoderma edule can’t be stored for long. Cockles are usually sold at around 11⁄4in (3cm). Wash, and then steam open over simmering stock or wine. Extract from the shell to serve. Excellent in salads or as a starter with a simple dressing. They have a sweet taste of the sea and can be a little gritty, but are a real treat when freshly cooked. The glossy brown shell of Check that the shells the razor clam is brittle and are tightly closed, as needs careful handling, as it this indicates that they are still alive. has a razor-sharp edge. Geoduck clam ▼ Panopea abrupta Also known as Pacific geoduck or king clam, this clam is usually sold at 4–6in (10–15cm) in diameter. The siphon can be up to 271⁄2in (70cm) long, when fully extended. The geoduck can live to over a 100 years old. It can grow much bigger and weigh as much as 151⁄2–171⁄2lb (7–8kg). The meat can be tough, but the flavor is intense. They are particularly popular in Japan. Razor clam Ensis ensis These are usually harvested at 5in (12cm) or larger. Check that the clam is alive immediately prior to cooking: the shell should close tightly if tapped. Best steamed, or broiled (but toughens easily). Extract the sweet and tender muscle from the shell and discard the stomach contents (see page 279). Slice thinly for a marinated dish such as ceviche. The taste is not dissimilar to that of a scallop. 368 Fish gallery—Shellfish

Surf clam ▼ Hard-shell clam ▶ Spisula solidissima Mercenaria mercenaria These are also known as trough, bar, or These are also known as quahog, round, or Venus clam. hen clam, and are found on the eastern Small, young clams may be called littleneck clams, while coast of the US, where they are highly a half-grown clam is called a cherrystone and considered valued and used for clam chowder. Small a delicacy (eaten raw or cooked). Small hard-shell clams related species are found in Europe. Surf can be enjoyed raw, but the larger ones are often used in clams are good for steamed clam dishes. clam chowder. The shells are quite heavy, but open to Check that they are alive prior to cooking, reveal a sweet, tender, and pleasantly salty clam meat. rinse, then steam open over stock and white wine. They have a delicate, sweet Surf clams have a smooth flavor with a salty aftertaste. beige shell. They usually grow to 11⁄2–2in (4–5cm) in diameter, but can reach 6in (16cm). Hard-shell clams are 3–5in (8–12cm) wide. The amande is round, with Amande ▼ a chocolate zigzag pattern Glycymeris glycymeris on a cream shell. It is Also known as the dog cockle, the amande is caught harvested at about 11⁄2in around European coasts. Its shell can grow up to 3in (7cm) across. It has a firmer texture than most clams, so (4cm) in diameter. is good for chowders and stuffing although it is enjoyed raw in Europe. Sweet, meaty, and a little chewy. The siphon of the geoduck clam is edible, but the thick skin needs to be removed first and the meat cooked slowly until tender. Clams and Cockles 369

Scallops Pectinidae Escallops are commonly known as SUSTAINABILITY There is a Bay scallop scallops and are a popular shellfish. minimum landing size for the king They are harvested in oceans scallop caught off the coast of the Argopecten irradians worldwide and found deeper than UK and many other areas. Try to buy This scallop is found in the most shellfish. There are over 500 responsibly sourced specimens. western North Atlantic, and species, coming from three groups; Razor clams have a similar texture. is harvested along the coast some are an important commercial AVAILABILITY Fresh: Live in the of the US. Sear in hot butter food source, harvested from the wild, shell, prepared on the half-shell, for a few seconds on both or farmed. Scallops are harvested prepared and trimmed (processed). sides to make the most of by dredging or gathered by hand. Preserved: Frozen with roe both on the tender, sweet meat. (The latter is considered a more and off, canned, smoked, some responsible method. The scallops species are dried. Do not overcook bay are often larger than dredged ones EAT Cooked: Pan-fry, steam, poach, scallops, as they will and fetch a high price.) They are broil, grill; pan-fry smoked meat. hermaphrodites and comprise a Raw: Ceviche and sushi (white shrink and dry out. powerful adductor muscle (the meat only). white section), coral or roe FLAVOR PAIRINGS Bacon, chorizo, The shell can reach over 8in containing the eggs (the orange red bell peppers, red onions, olive (20cm) in diameter. It is section), and milt (the cream oil, sesame oil, black beans, section). This swells and bursts in scallions, ginger, chile. cream with brown markings; the water, mixing with the eggs for CLASSIC RECIPES Scallops in bacon; it has a flat bottom shell and fertilization. This is the only bivalve scallops with black bean sauce or that is sold raw in a prepared state. soy and ginger; scallop gratin; a concave top shell. The main part of the scallop that’s Coquilles St. Jacques. eaten is the sweet, succulent The mantle and adductor muscle. The coral is also Sea scallop ▶ dark stomach sac are eaten in Europe, but is discarded in removed when a scallop the US. The coral may be dried in a Pecten maximus low oven and pulverized to add to This scallop is caught in the deep is sold on the shell. shellfish sauces, to provide a greater waters of northern Europe, and enjoyed depth of flavor. Scallops have a in many European countries. The shell sweet seafood taste and tender, is corrugated, which prevents it from succulent texture. The roe has a closing very tightly, unlike other richer and more intense flavor. bivalves. Sea scallops are at their very best pan-seared, although Queen scallops do not intense heat makes the roe pop. usually grow to more than Care needs to be taken not to overcook them—cook for about a 21⁄2in (6cm) across. minute on either side in a hot pan. The adductor muscle allows the shell to open and close, giving the scallop mobility. ◀ Queen scallop Aequipecten opercularis “Queenies” are rarely sold live in the shell. They are either extracted or trimmed, and sold on the half-shell. They have a sweet, delicate taste. They are best used in a stir-fry or in a fish stew—they overcook very easily and shrink. If served on the shell, they are good with a little flavored butter and a few seconds under the broiler. 370 Fish gallery—Shellfish

Mussels Mytilidae Mussels live in cool waters all over EAT Cooked: Steam, roast, broil. The shell of the world. They are abundant and Green-lipped mussel: Topped and this variety are harvested from the wild by réchauffé as baked and broiled. is smooth and dredging and hand-gathering. They Remove the shell if adding to a glossy and it has are also farmed in large quantities sauce or stew. uniform angles. (see page 300–301). Mussels are one FLAVOR PAIRINGS White wine, of the most sustainable seafoods butter, garlic, cream, ginger, available. There are various species. lemongrass, spices, parsley, cilantro, AVAILABILITY Fresh: Live in the dill, rosemary, fennel, Pernod. shell, cook fresh. Preserved: Frozen CLASSIC RECIPES Moules marinières, meat, canned in brine or vinegar, moules frites, paella, moules à la smoked. Often included in frozen crème, moules farcies, mouclade. seafood mix. Green-lipped mussel: usually cooked on the half-shell and frozen. Green-lipped mussel This variety is identified by its Perna canaliculus distinctive green Also known as the New Zealand mussel, or green mussel, lip inside its shell. this may grow to 91⁄2in (24cm) long. It is of economic importance around the New Zealand coastline, where it is harvested abundantly. It has a dark brown shell with a vivid green lip. It is very meaty—almost chewy—and intensely flavored. You can work out Rope-grown a mussel’s age by mussels are smooth, counting the number of blue/black, and glossy in circles on its shell. appearance. They require minimal preparation. Common mussel Mussels 371 Mytilus edulis Also known as the blue mussel, the common muscle is found in temperate and polar waters worldwide. The shell varies from brown to a bluish-purple. The mussels attach themselves to rocks, or when farmed, to rope, by a strong thread called the byssus thread (or beard), a protein they secrete. They taste slightly salty, with an intense flavor of the sea.

Oyster Ostreidae Eating oysters is a global pastime, cultivated in beds all along the east AVAILABILITY In the shell, smoked, Native oyster and a well-documented gourmet coast of the US. Oysters harvested in canned. delight. Like other bivalve (two-shell) different waters differ subtly in flavor EAT Cooked: Deep-fry, pan-fry, poach, Ostrea edulis molluscs, an oyster lives inside its and shell color. Oyster-tasting is an broil, bake. Raw: In the half shell. Also called the European flat oyster, it shell, which it opens and closes with art, much like wine-tasting, with FLAVOR PAIRINGS Cooked: Anchovy is often served raw on a bed of crushed a strong muscle. The shell is oval, many gourmet terms for the varied paste, butter, spinach. Raw: Red wine ice, dressed with lemon juice, Tabasco, either cupped or flat, and covered in flavors, including tangy, metallic, vinegar, Tabasco, lemon juice. and shallot vinegar. Graded by size, frilly, rock-like crevices. Fresh oysters nutty, grassy, ozone, sweet, cucumber, CLASSIC RECIPES Oysters in the half from 1 to 4, the largest “royals” can are tightly closed, and hard to open fruity, iodine, earthy, and coppery. One shell with shallot vinegar; oysters reach 4in (10cm). without a shucking knife. Mostly topic still hotly debated is whether to found in temperate coastal waters, eat oysters cooked or raw, au naturel, Rockefeller; oyster po-boys. oysters are harvested from both wild or dressed. Eat wild oysters during and farmed beds worldwide. Two late spring or early summer, when main genera are gathered: Ostrea, they are not spawning. Farmed native to Europe, and the west coast oysters can be eaten all year round. of the US; Crassostrea, native to Asia, Japan, the east coast of the US, and Native oysters have an Australia. Once harvested, the fish are oval scaly shell, intense purified and graded by size. An all-time favorite is the creamy Pacific taste, and firm texture. oyster (Crassostrea gigas), originally from the coast of Japan, but farmed in northern Europe, the Northwest Pacific, where it is famously cultivated along the coastal waters of British Columbia, and the states of Washington, Oregon, and California in the US. Equally popular is the small, buttery Kumamoto oyster (from Japan), widely regarded as one of the world’s finest oysters. A more salty Atlantic choice is the Blue Point oyster (C. virginica), native to the East Atlantic coast, and Gulf states, but Pacific oyster The meat of the Pacific oyster is a delicate Crassostrea gigas beige color, with a The taste of this widely cultured oyster smooth, creamy texture. varies enormously, depending on where it is grown. Flavors range from smoky to grassy and acidic, through to milky and creamy. Usually graded by weight, a fair size would be 4oz (115g), or 41⁄2in (11cm). Store the oysters cup-side down to prevent their natural juices from escaping. 372 Fish gallery—Shellfish

The head is wide, but it is the The large, robust, meaty tail that is eaten, either smooth claws are pulled off the cooked fish, or orange on the preserved in brine. underside. Freshwater crawfish Astacidae Also called crayfish (in the UK), wild are hand-gathered by turning Once immersed in écrevisse (France), and camarón over rocks in streams and farm dams. boiling water, the (Spain), the crawfish is a freshwater SUSTAINABILITY Some Australian heat-sensitive pigment in crustacean related to the lobsterette cousins, including the West the brownish green shell (see below). Caught mainly in fresh Australian marron (Cherax turns a bright cardinal red. waters, many species are harvested tenuimanus) and the yabby (C. in the US, where they feature in the destructor), have been farmed for an Signal crawfish Cajun cuisine of Louisiana. They overstretched market. The crawfish also thrive in the lakes and rivers of found in the UK faced sustainability Pacifastacus leniusculus New Zealand, East Asia, and Europe issues because of a virus. The This crawfish is native to North America, and are popular in France and American signal crawfish was where it thrives in freshwater ponds, lakes, Scandinavia. Most crawfish have introduced but it’s a very invasive rivers, and streams. It is a robust creature a segmented body, varying in color species. Alternatives include and easy to farm. As the crawfish are not from chocolate-brown to sandy- responsibly sourced langoustine. huge, just 4–6in (10–15cm), serve around yellow. Equally variable in size, AVAILABILITY Whole, most often 12 to 15 per person, with lots of melted crawfish range from 3–12in (7.5– live; frozen tails; cooked. butter and bread. 30cm), depending on the species. EAT Cooked: Boil and sauté. They are quite feisty, but it is FLAVOR PAIRINGS Butter, garlic, impractical to band their claws. lemon, cream, tomatoes, parsley. Handle carefully to avoid a sharp CLASSIC RECIPES Crawfish nip. Many crawfish caught in the jambalaya; crawfish étouffée. Lobsterette Nephropidae Lobsterettes are mini-lobsters, much SUSTAINABILITY There is a Dublin Bay prawn like prawns, but with minuscule minimum landing size in place to claws. Many species live on the Nephrops norvegicus muddy or sandy sea floor of the prevent overuse. Look for responsibly Also known as nephrop, Norway lobster, and langoustine, world’s oceans. Commonly known this prawn has recently become prized for its sweet, as Italian scampi, popular varieties sourced Dublin Bay prawns. tender meat, and now fetches a high price. Whole include the Dublin Bay prawn AVAILABILITY Fresh: Whole live, raw, langoustine can pose a challenge on the dinner plate. (Nephrops norvegicus), and Florida cooked. Frozen: Whole, raw, cooked; Traditionally, the claws are cracked and opened, then lobsterette (Nephropsis aculeata). also tails, breaded for scampi. the meat prized out with a lobster pick. As the tail They are caught commonly along EAT Cooked: Boil, roast, pan-fry or can be sharp, it is best pinched until the the West Atlantic and East Atlantic as scampi, deep-fry, poach. underside cracks, exposing the meat. coasts, from Iceland in the north to FLAVOR PAIRINGS Lemon, basil, Morocco in the south. For the sage, butter, garlic. The sharp, spiny claws European market, especially France CLASSIC RECIPES Scampi Provençale; contain little meat. Scoop it and the Mediterranean, where they deep-fried scampi and chips. out with a toothpick, and are a popular seafood, lobsterettes break up the claws for stock. are harvested around the British Isles, and then exported. Much like prawns in appearance, most live lobsterettes are amber-rose, or coral-colored. Unusually, they do not change color much when cooked, which can be confusing. Look instead at the tail, which curls under the body; and at the flesh on the underside, which turns from translucent to opaque. Freshwater crawfish | Lobsterette 373

Rock lobster Palinuridae Unlike “true” clawed lobsters, below the tidal zone, hiding in delicacy in their own right. EAT Cooked: Whole tails: Boil, steam, rock lobsters (also known as spiny crevices and caverns. Typically Although some taste less sweet deep-fry, broil. Tail meat: Dice and lobster) lack claws. Instead they found in the Western Atlantic, than true lobster, many have have a rocky carapace (head), and from North Carolina to Brazil, particularly succulent and dense tail stir-fry, add to soups and stews. short, sharp spines running the and in the Gulf of Mexico and meat. If overcooked, however, they FLAVOR PAIRINGS Chile, garlic, length of their body. Some species the Caribbean Sea, most are can become tough and fibrous. lemon, olive oil, butter. also have a distinctive orange- caught in the tropical and AVAILABILITY Fresh and frozen, CLASSIC RECIPES Boiled with lemon brown shell, flecked with green, subtropical waters of the whole and tails. and garlic; grilled rock lobster. yellow, and blue spots, which northern hemisphere and in intensify in color when cooked. Also some cold waters of the southern Rock lobster known as crawfish or crayfish, hemisphere. They are harvested especially in Australasia, rock and sold to around 90 countries Palinurus elephas lobsters thrive along rocky coasts worldwide, and valued as a Although fairly large, about 16in (40cm), these shellfish lack the fleshy claws of true lobsters. Instead, the dense, sweet meat typical of the species is concentrated in the tail shell, although some meat can be extracted from the legs. The legs of a lobster contain sweet juice that can be sucked from the shell. The claws do not contain as much white meat as those of clawed lobsters. A lobster uses its long antennae to navigate its way around the murky ocean floor. The carapace is American lobster ▶ slightly compressed in this variety. Homarus americanus Also known as the Atlantic or Maine lobster, this 374 Fish gallery—Shellfish traditionally large and meaty shellfish can grow to at least 2ft (60cm), and take seven years to reach 1lb (450g). An ideal weight for a main dish is 1lb 10oz (750g) or 21⁄4lb (1kg), before the shell grows too thick and heavy.

Lobster Lobster is prized worldwide as a Canada. Most are caught by one-way behavior when captive. However, EAT Live: Freeze briefly or stun luxury food. Many lobster families baited traps and pots. Many American if banded for too long, the claw meat before boiling. Cooked: Boiled – populate the oceans of the world. lobsters are exported to Japan where will start to atrophy. 10 minutes per 1lb (450g); broiled, Classified as invertebrates, with a they are also prized as a delicacy. The SUSTAINABILITY Most American baked, both extracted from the shell hard, protective shell, lobsters live European lobster, rather less abundant lobster from Nova Scotia and and in bisque. in burrows, or crevices in rocks, mud, than its American cousin, is usually Newfoundland has to be a minimum FLAVOR PAIRINGS Cream, butter, and sand, feeding on molluscs and more expensive. It is often wondered size when landed. The size is Parmesan, tarragon, parsley, chervil, other crustaceans. A lobster’s body is which of the two provides the best measured along the carapace. paprika, white wine. made of several sections: a carapace flavor. When served in a classic dish, AVAILABILITY Whole: Live and CLASSIC RECIPES Lobster Thermidor; (head), and tail shell with legs, such as lobster Thermidor, it is hard cooked. Frozen: Cooked whole lobster Newburg; lobster bisque; swimlets, and, in some species, claws. to tell the difference. Typically, the and frozen, extracted from the dressed lobster. Like crabs and other arthropods, tail meat of most lobsters is sweet, shell. Canned. lobsters molt their shells in order succulent, dense, and highly valued. to grow. For the chef, lobsters come On harvesting, lobsters usually have in two main types: clawed (see their claws “banded”, which makes below) and clawless (see facing them easier to handle and curbs their page). Among the Nephropidae naturally aggressive and cannibalistic family several members are clawed, including the European, American, and Canadian lobsters, and the Dublin Bay prawn (or langoustine). Both the European and American varieties are extensively farmed and harvested from the wild to feed the appetites of Europe, the US, and The large and heavy crusher claw is filled with dense, sweet meat that can be extracted whole to garnish a dish. Once caught, strong rubber bands secure the claws so the lobster cannot attack. Lobster 375

Slipper lobster Scyllaridae Colorfully named the shovel-nosed commercially important cousins EAT Cooked: Boil, steam, poach, Balmain bug ▼ lobster, Spanish lobster, sand lobster, include the Moreton Bay bug (found deep-fry, grill. or locust lobster, slipper lobsters in northern Australian waters), and FLAVOR PAIRINGS Butter, herbs such Ibacus peronii lack the meaty claws of “true” the Balmain bug (found off the south as tarragon, chives, and dill, garlic, Sometimes called a flapjack, or lobsters (much like the spiny coasts of Australia). Most slipper mud bug, this tasty Australian lobster). Various species thrive lobsters have a sweet, delicate, citrus, lemongrass, soy sauce, chile. shellfish is especially popular in on the sea floor in warm waters mellow taste and medium texture, CLASSIC RECIPES Seafood platter; Sydney. Its meat, found only in worldwide, mostly around Thailand, firm to the bite. grilled bug tails with garlic butter. the tail, tastes strong and sweet. Singapore, and Australia. Close and AVAILABILITY Whole and tails. A fair-sized bug, 10in (25cm) long, with a hard, rosy shell, and feels heavy for its size. The eyes of the Moreton Bay bug, unlike the Balmain bug, are located toward the edge of the head. Moreton Bay bug ◀ Thenus orientalis Named after Moreton Bay in Queensland, where it is enjoyed as a local delicacy, it looks like the Balmain bug (above), roughly 10in (25cm), but fatter, with wide-set eyes, and more of an amber hue. It is a versatile fish, with a sweet flavor, ideal for poaching and steaming, deep-frying, pan-frying, and stir-frying. Slipper lobster Once the hard, pebbly, reddish shell is removed, Scyllarus arctus the tail meat is sweet and Nicknamed the flat lobster, langosta, or firm to the bite. cigale, various species of this clawless lobster are found worldwide and are popular in the Mediterranean. Smallish, at 6in (15cm), it traditionally forms part of a shellfish platter. Only the tail is eaten. 376 Fish gallery—Shellfish

Prawn and Shrimp Prawns and shrimps thrive in all smaller species, such as the brown for farming. Toxic chemicals ward and frozen; peeled and soaked. waters, cold and warm, fresh and shrimp (Crangon crangon). The off disease and, after a few years, the EAT Cold-water: Serve defrosted marine. Widely popular, especially in largest prawns are the warm-water, farm becomes too polluted to sustain as part of a salad; or serve as potted Australia, the US, Europe, and Japan, or tropical, variety, at least 14in more farming. Some farms, however, shrimps. Use the shells for stock and prawns are extensively harvested (35cm), compared to cold-water have adopted responsible practices; flavored butters. and farmed. Varied use of the terms shrimps, about 2in (5cm). check the label. The smaller, Warm-water: Pan-fry, stir-fry, “prawn” and “shrimp” can be SUSTAINABILITY Tropical shrimp slower-growing, cold-water shrimp, deep-fry, broil, grill, bake. For a confusing. In the US, “shrimp” often provide more than three-quarters of found mainly in the Atlantic, Arctic, sweet, roasted flavor, pan-fry in oil means the same as “prawn.” In the the world’s supply. Found mainly in and Pacific oceans, are caught by the with vegetables. For a subtler flavor, UK and Australia, “prawn” mostly the Pacific and Indian oceans, they US, UK, Canada, Greenland, Denmark, simmer in water. refers to warm-water species, such are harvested or farmed by Latin and Iceland. Many fisheries have a FLAVOR PAIRINGS Mayonnaise, as the giant black tiger prawn America, Australia, China, Vietnam, minimum mesh size, as trawling for capers, paprika, pepper, lemon juice. (Penaeus monodon), as well as some Sri Lanka, and Thailand. Tropical shrimp creates a huge bycatch. CLASSIC RECIPES Cold-water: fair-sized cold-water species, such as shrimp farms can cause damage to AVAILABILITY Cold-water: Fresh Shrimp cocktail; avocado, pear, and the deep-water prawn (Pandalus the environment. Mangrove swamps and frozen; cooked as crevettes prawns. Warm-water: Gambas pil borealis), while “shrimp” refers to are flooded to make a site suitable (poached). Warm-water: Cooked pil (garlic prawn); shrimp tempura. Crevette rose When poached, the white Central American shrimp (right) is often called a crevette (French for “shrimp”). It is wonderfully sweet and dense and makes an attractive rosy garnish to paella. Confusingly, crevette rose is also the name of a prawn from the Palaemonidae family. Giant black tiger prawn ◀ Pacific white shrimp Penaeus monodon Litopenaeus vannamei A meaty tropical prawn, which can reach 14in (35cm), A popular shrimp species farmed in both Latin and it is harvested globally, and farmed extensively. When South American countries, these white prawns buying, check how responsibly the fish have been are harvested, graded, and frozen for sale. Often sourced and choose organically farmed. To grill, snip off large, up to 10in (25cm), they are meaty and sweet. the legs and antennae; then twist and pull out the tail The shells provide a tasty addition to shellfish stock. section. The taste is mellow, honeyed, and succulent. Brown shrimp Deep-water prawn Crangon crangon Pandalus borealis Although measuring no more than 2in (5cm), this common Valued for its sweet, mild taste, and succulent texture, shrimp is regarded as quite a delicacy, fetching a higher it is also called the Greenland prawn in the UK, and price than larger, warm-water species. Caught in the East the northern red shrimp or Alaskan pink shrimp in the Atlantic, it looks transparent when live, but turns amber- US. A fair size for a cold-water prawn, at 21⁄2in (6cm), it brown on cooking. Brown shrimps are traditionally served is always cooked on landing, and frozen for sale. The as potted shrimps. Although fiddly to peel, they are sweet, shells make a tasty stock, ideal for pilaf, risotto, and succulent, and absolutely delicious. soup. They can also be processed together with butter, and sieved to make prawn butter. Prawn and Shrimp 377

Crab Crabs come in all sizes and are a SUSTAINABILITY Many crabs are Blue crab popular crustacean on many sustainably sourced, although continents. The wide availability depending on the species and Callinectes sapidus of crab (they are found in oceans the area of capture, it can be illegal Native to the West Atlantic, this crab is seen in both worldwide) and the variety of to land crabs carrying eggs (berries). Japanese and European waters. Known as “busters” or species makes them a favorite in In some cases, it is illegal to land “peelers”, blue crabs nearing a molting stage are held in many countries. Crabs come from hen crabs. There is a minimum tanks, so that once the carapace lifts away revealing the a selection of groups including the landing size in place globally for soft, delicate body underneath, they are harvested. The Cancridae, Grapsidae, Portunidae, some species, measured width gills, mouth, and stomach sac are removed and the crab Lithodoidae, and Majidae families. ways across the carapace. For is frozen or sold fresh ready for the “soft shell crab” A crab has a carapace or cart as a the white meat, alternatives would season. Alternatively, meat from these crabs is used for main shell, legs, and in most cases be responsibly sourced prawns crab cakes, soups, and dips. The fresh season is usually claws, though the size of claws and and scallops. late spring to early summer. legs varies from species to species. AVAILABILITY Cooked: Whole and They periodically molt their shell claws. Prepared: Dressed/hand- as they grow—frequently in the first picked; processed and pasteurized two years of life, and every 1–2 years white and brown meat (usually thereafter. Crab provides two frozen separately). distinct meats: the white meat, EAT Live: Boiling for 15 mins per 1lb found in the claws, legs, and main 2oz (500g) is usual. Cooked: Toss into body, and the brown meat found in salads, rechauffé in pasta, rice the carapace of the crab. As a dishes, and sauté. Raw: Sushi. general rule, the white is often the FLAVOR PAIRINGS Mayonnaise, chile, favored of the two and is more lemon, parsley, dill, potato, butter, expensive. Brown meat from the Worcestershire sauce, anchovy paste. carapace is well flavored. Some CLASSIC RECIPES Thai crab cakes; species are renowned for their white chile crab; dressed crab (usually claw meat, specifically the Brown brown edible crab); potted crab edible crab, Jonah, and Dungeness (crab paste); pan-fried soft shell crab of the Cancridae group. Snow crab; Maryland crab cakes. crabs and King crabs have valuable sweet succulent meat in their legs. It is known as the Male crabs have larger claws and are “swimmer” crab because therefore more valuable, hens are considered to have more intensely of the paddles it has in flavored brown meat and less white place of its back legs. meat and are usually less expensive. The blue crab can be identified by its beautiful blue claws and an olive brown carapace.. Once cooked, the shell becomes a vivid red. The best meat is found in the legs and claws. Dungeness crab Metacarcinus magister A member of the Cancridae group, the Dungeness crab is found in the Pacific Ocean from Alaska to California, and is the most popular crab in the Pacific Northwest and western Canada. It can measure up to 10in (25cm). It’s recognized for its delicate and sweet flavor, and is popular for a seafood platter, served simply with melted butter. 378 Fish gallery—Shellfish

The meat in the legs is highly prized while the brown meat is negligible, so the legs are usually removed and sold separately, as “clusters”. Take care when extracting Red king crab the white meat, as the legs Paralithodes camtschaticus are very prickly. King crabs from the Lithodoidae group are also called stone crabs. This is the largest crab group and most popular, with particularly succulent and well-flavored leg meat. Red king crab is one of the largest of the group and it can have a leg span of 6ft (1.8m). Its color ranges from The elongated, hard shell beige to light brown is periodically molted to with blue trim and is allow the crab to grow. often light orange on the underside. Succulent, white meat is found in the claw; make sure you remove the bone. Brown edible crab Cancer pagurus This species is caught in baited pots around the coasts of Northern Europe. Male crabs are famed for their big claws containing sweet, succulent meat. This crab can take around seven years to grow to 1lb 2oz (500g). It is traditionally served dressed and returned to the clean carapace, with mayonnaise, brown bread, and butter. Crab 379

Squid Cephalapod Although many species of squid usually with a tube that is no Common squid have thrived for centuries in the more than 3–4in (7.5–10cm) world’s oceans, it is only in recent long. Prepare it, and cut it into Loligo vulgaris years that this shellfish has become rectangles or rings; or leave The “ink fish” has gained a reputation globally popular. Squid is now whole, if grilling. Raw: In sushi. for being tough and chewy, but is only quite possibly the most widely FLAVOR PAIRINGS Chile, olive oil, ever so if it is overcooked. In a hot pan, consumed seafood, partly due breadcrumbs, lemon juice, garlic, the meat takes no time at all. At its to its availability. The common scallions, mayonnaise. best, it tastes tender and mellow, with squid (Loligo vulgaris), popularly CLASSIC RECIPES Fried calamari; a subtle, distinctive flavor. nicknamed “ink fish”, is probably squid cooked in ink; squid stuffed the best known. It ranges widely with rice; Sichuan-fried squid. The tough, wing-like fins in size from a baby squid, are best either finely sliced measuring 3⁄4in (2cm), to much or stir-fried, or reserved to larger specimens, some growing flavor stock. as long as 31–35in (80–90cm). The size of a squid is what determines The long, fleshy mantle the cooking method—whether fast is often cut into rings. or slow. The smaller the squid, the It’s tasty and succulent quicker the cooking; the larger the if not overcooked. squid, the longer it will need in the pot. Squid is made up of a long The mottled skin is best tubular body (mantle), which, once peeled off and reserved prepared, is called a “tube”. The for stock, as it toughens body is flanked at one end by a pair and shrinks around the of wing-like fins, which sometimes flesh when cooked. look like arrows, most famously on the arrow squid (Nototodarus Eight arms are gouldi). The live squid is covered relatively short, while in a reddish, purple or coffee- two are longer, and brown membrane, sometimes used to catch prey. with intricate brown “veins” or markings, providing camouflage. The membrane is thin and easily pulled away, especially after the squid has been packed in ice and jostled around in its box. Attached to the head are 10 tentacles, two long and eight smaller ones. In the center of the tentacles is the hard beak (mouth-piece). The ink, after which the “ink-fish” is named, is contained in a small, silver ink sac in the tube. Running up the middle of the squid is an internal shell (or “pen”), which resembles plastic, and should be pulled away before cooking (see page 282). The flesh of a good-quality squid is white, turning pink as it decomposes. AVAILABILITY Whole: Fresh, dried, smoked, and canned. Parts: Frozen tubes or rings; sometimes part of a mixed seafood cocktail. EAT Cooked: Pan-fry, stir-fry, deep-fry, braise, or sauté. For rings or small pieces, broil or poach. Whole tubes, flattened out into a sheet and scored, these taste excellent when grilled. The tube can also be stuffed with a savory breadcrumb mix, couscous, quinoa, or rice. Choose a fair-sized squid, 380 Fish gallery—Shellfish

Octopus Celphalapod Various species of octopus inhabit SUSTAINABILITY There are some tropical, subtropical, and temperate concerns over sustainability, as waters worldwide. Commonly octopus has been overfished in regarded as one of the most areas where it’s considered a intelligent invertebrates, the octopus delicacy. Alternatives include has keen eyesight and an acute responsibly sourced cuttlefish sense of touch. Using its sensitive (in season) and squid. skin camouflage to change color, AVAILABILITY Fresh and frozen, or even texture, it has an uncanny whole and prepared; also tumbled. capacity to evade capture and Prepared: In marinade and brine, confuse its predators. If all else canned, smoked, and dried. fails, it squirts ink at the enemy, EAT Cooked: Braise or stew; unlike escaping under cover of an “ink- squid and small cuttlefish, which can screen.” Despite their intelligence, be cooked briefly, octopus benefits most octopuses live for no more than from a slow, gentle stew. Smaller 12–18 months. Unlike the squid and specimens or baby octopus can be cuttlefish, the octopus lacks any briefly blanched, and marinated to internal shell, allowing it to hide in serve. Blanch and refresh prepared and squeeze through slim cracks. octopus by dipping very briefly in The only hard part of an octopus boiling, then cold, water. is its beak (mouth-piece). Its soft, FLAVOR PAIRINGS Red wine, onions, tubular body (mantle) is armed balsamic vinegar, parsley, sage, with eight long tentacles. Octopus rosemary, paprika, chile, soy, sesame is prepared and cooked in various oil, Japanese rice wine vinegar. ways by different cultures. Used CLASSIC RECIPES Polvo a modo extensively in Japanese cuisine, ze de lino (octopus stew); pickled octopus, or tako, is often served as octopus; ceviche de pulpo sushi and takoyaki (fried or grilled (marinated octopus); octopus octopus); some smaller species are in red wine. eaten alive. Octopus is equally popular in Asian cuisine, and forms a major part of the Hawaiian diet. In Europe, Spain is the biggest consumer, followed by Portugal. Rinse the tentacles well to flush out any grit in the suction pads. The thin, amber skin is best left on, to add color to the dish being prepared. Common octopus Octopus vulgaris Also known as pulpo (in Spain and Italy), the common octopus, which is mostly found in the East Atlantic, is usually harvested in large hauls, often by bottom trawls, which plough up other marine life. A fair-sized catch, up to 3ft (lm) long, and 41⁄2lb (2kg) in weight, would be good for a family of four. Although seemingly huge, it shrinks when cooked slowly. 381

Cuttlefish Cephalopod Popularly nicknamed “ink fish” CLASSIC RECIPES Risotto nero; chile Common cuttlefish for its ability to squirt ink at its cuttlefish; soupies krasates (cuttlefish enemies, the cuttlefish is often in wine); Tuscan cuttlefish salad. Sepia officinalis the tastiest but quite possibly the FLAVOR PAIRINGS Red wine, Native to the East Atlantic and Mediterranean, it least appreciated member of the garlic, red onions, balsamic vinegar, is one of the largest cuttlefish, at about 16in (40cm). cephalopod group. Various species chile, lime. The tough tentacles need to be tenderized in a thrive in the depths of the world’s slow stew or braised. oceans, except for North American waters. Cuttlefish are caught for The frilly fins of the their internal shell (cuttlebone) and cuttlefish peel away the copious ink they produce to with the flesh. They confuse their predators. The ink give shellfish stock a is harvested and pasteurized for commercial use, for dying pasta wonderful flavor. black, and for cooking: typically, risotto nero. Cuttlefish are mostly caught by trawl, and as bait for recreational fishing. With a wonderfully sweet, seafood taste, and firm, meaty texture, cuttlefish is enjoyed as a delicacy in many countries. If pan-fried for more than a minute, though, it will toughen and lose its translucency. The fish is particularly prized in the cuisines of China, Japan, Korea, Spain, and Italy. AVAILABILITY Whole: Unprepared. Frozen: Ink and shell sold separately. Preserved: Dried. EAT Cooked: Slice the body thinly and pan-fry, deep-fry, or bake. The legs and tentacles are best stewed slowly and extensively. Sea urchin Echinoidae To avoid the spines, either split the urchin in half, or Prickly and uninviting, sea urchins AVAILABILITY Whole and, in some Sea urchin cut out the central beak thrive on the ocean floor. More than countries, extracted from the shell. and scoop out the middle 500 species exist, most are edible. EAT Usually raw, although they do Echinus esculentus with a teaspoon. Sea urchins feature in Japanese, add flavor to a creamy fish sauce. Globular, pink, and spiky, the common Italian, Spanish, and classic French FLAVOR PAIRINGS Lemon. sea urchin found in shallow waters cuisine. The edible part of the CLASSIC RECIPES Linguine con ricci off the British Isles can grow up to urchin is its roe, which needs to be di mare; sea urchin omelet. 6in (15cm) in size. Sea urchins are carefully extracted. The entrance a challenge to prepare, but the into a sea urchin is on its underside, seaweed flavor is strong and through its mouth, which can be creamy—never pungent opened with a knife. First the or fishy. viscera should be removed; then the creamy orange roe (attached to the Sea urchin roe Sea urchin roe (or top of the shell) can be scooped out “tongues”) have a with a spoon (see page 281). The Pried out of its prickly shell, sea umami (essence of resultant treat is small and relatively urchin roe is often enjoyed raw, loveliness in Japanese) expensive, but offers an intense, but is equally delicious cooked. that is delicately salty creamy taste, much like seaweed. In Add it to a cream, white wine, and and rich. Japan, the urchins, or uni, are eaten fish stock for the perfect addition fresh with sushi, and fermented to to pan-fried fish, such as turbot. form sea urchin paste. SUSTAINABILITY In some cultures, especially Japan and the Mediterranean, sea urchins are popular as a delicacy, which has led to overfishing. There is no real alternative to sea urchin. 382 Fish gallery—Shellfish

Goose barnacle Lepadidae Peel away the outer These eight pairs of arms The goose barnacle takes its name from membrane to reveal and two longer tentacles its striking long, goose-like neck. Like the tough, pure white are used to capture prey other crustaceans, it lives attached to body beneath. exposed rocks in many coastal waters, and can be retracted except in the Arctic. Barnacle meat completely into the body. comes from the creature’s soft protruding body, covered in thick skin. Before cooking, the tough skin needs Before cooking, to be removed with the help of a nail; remove the chalky or it can be peeled away after cooking. (calcareous) plates The barnacle has a sweet seafood taste much like crab and crawfish. Cooked to and peel the perfection, it is succulent and tender; if skin away. overcooked, it is tough and rubbery. In Portugal and Spain, goose barnacle is prized as the iconic delicacy percebes. AVAILABILITY Usually whole. EAT Cooked: Steamed or poached; only 2–3 minutes in boiling salted water with a bay leaf and lemon. FLAVOR PAIRINGS Lemon, butter, garlic. Goose barnacle Lepas anatifera A sought-after delicacy in several Mediterranean countries, goose barnacles are often enjoyed simply steamed over stock, then served straight from the shell. Measuring about 10in (25cm), two or three provide a good helping. Sea cucumber Stichopodidae Although commonly found in the caught, the fish are gutted, boiled, parts of Europe, especially Barcelona. FLAVOR PAIRINGS Southern world’s oceans, sea cucumbers are salted, and dried, for long-term SUSTAINABILITY Sea cucumbers have European/Spanish flavors: something of an acquired taste, with storage. To prepare, rehydrate the fish been overfished in the Mediterranean Pil-pil chile, garlic, parsley. a rather salty, savory flavor and by soaking in water, and tenderize and other seas. Alternatives include CLASSIC RECIPES Braised sea chewy, gelatinous texture. Reflecting with extensive simmering. In China, whelks, which have a similar texture. cucumber with mushrooms; their nickname “sea-slug”, they the fish is a delicacy, slowly braised in AVAILABILITY Whole, usually dried. braised espardenyes. shuffle slowly across the sea floor, rice wine and ginger. Sea cucumbers EAT Cooked: Soak and simmer, scavenging for food. After being are also popular in the Philippines and or braise. Feather-like tentacles Rows of tubular feet Sea cucumber sweep up food from have tiny suction caps the sea floor. that help it move along Stichopus regalis the sea floor. Enjoyed for centuries by fishermen, it is prized as a delicacy, eaten fresh in Japan, and dried in China. Typically slug-like in shape and size, it grows up to 8in (20cm). Some sea cucumbers discharge sticky threads from their base when they are attacked. Goose barnacle| Sea cucumber 383

Hot-smoked fish Hot-smoking is a technique of but do not overheat, because it will Remove the sprat’s Smoked sprats ▲ preservation in which fish or seafood toughen and change the texture. head and peel away its is brined or salted for a short period, FLAVOR PAIRINGS Horseradish, skin to reveal a fillet with A popular treat and delicacy in Germany, allowed to dry briefly, then smoked cream and sour cream, honey, soy Sweden, Poland, Estonia, Finland, and Russia, and cooked in a temperature- sauce and sesame oil, dill, cilantro. an excellent flavor. smoked sprats are also known by their Swedish controlled kiln. An initial smoking CLASSIC RECIPES Beef and smoked name of brisling. They are smoked whole and, takes place at a low temperature. oyster pie; smoked mackerel pâté; because of their soft bones, usually eaten The duration of this phase is dictated smoked eel with beet and potato whole—diehard fans may eat the head, too. by the producer and the type of fish. salad; smoked mackerel fishcakes. The smoking process dries them somewhat Once the fish is impregnated with and gives them a robust flavor. smoke, it is smoked for a second time Arbroath smokie at a higher temperature, which cooks The salting process the fish. Fish often treated in this This is a speciality from Arbroath in Scotland. Gutted, small makes the texture of way include mackerel, trout, and haddock, heads removed, are tied into pairs at the tail using the herring quite dry. salmon, and shellfish include mussels locally sourced jute, dry-salted for an hour, and then densely and oysters. Hot-smoked fish has a smoked. Served as they are, or used in mousses and smoked lightly salted, densely smoked flavor, haddock pâté, Arbroath smokies have an intense flavor. an opaque appearance, and a moist texture. Although products will keep for a number of days, hot-smoked fish generally have a shorter shelf life than cold-smoked fish. BUY Choose fish that is moist, but not slimy, and has a strong, but pleasant aroma. STORE Keep refrigerated, but not directly over ice. The salt added during the smoking process automatically gives the fish a slightly extended shelf life. EAT Hot-smoked products can be eaten immediately or added to other dishes. Because they have already been cooked, care needs to be taken when reheating them or adding them to a hot dish. Serve them piping hot, Smoked mussels The mussels are cooked, brined, and hot-smoked. They are delicious as an addition to a seafood platter, or tossed into a salad. Smoked mussels are firm, sweet, and tasty. They are available freshly smoked or canned in oil. Smoked oysters ▶ Firm and verging on tough, brined and cooked oysters are kiln-smoked for this speciality, which is popular in Asian cooking. Most are canned in oil; also available freshly smoked or vacuum-packed. The smoking process masks a lot of their natural taste. Use in beef and smoked oyster pie, or blend with cream cheese for a dip. Smoked eel ▲ Firm and slightly rubbery, smoked eel is considered a delicacy, particularly in The Netherlands, so it is expensive. European and New Zealand eels are cleaned, dry-salted, and hot-smoked. The smoke cuts through the oily texture of the fish. 384 Fish gallery—Preserved fish

Kiln-roasted salmon The skin of smoked mackerel peels The advantage of hot-smoking is that the “greasiness” associated with some cold-smoked away very easily. fish is lost. Kiln-roasted salmon is excellent eaten cold, forked into salads, or substituted for Kiln-roasted salmon is cold-smoked salmon in recipes. It can also be usually smoked in steaks heated and tossed into pasta and rice dishes. (cold-smoked salmon is smoked as a side). The oil-rich flesh needs Smoked mackerel no further cooking and Mackerel’s oil-rich flesh lends itself to can be eaten straight hot-smoking. Whole gutted fish and fillets are after smoking. used. Smoked mackerel is available dyed and undyed, and as fillets encrusted in pepper or other toppings. Smoked mackerel works well with a spicy relish, or combined with creamed horseradish. Some of the best smoked mackerel comes from the UK, where Scottish-caught mackerel, which tends to have a high oil content, is used. Buckling Hot-smoked trout flesh has a robust flavor This is a herring, sometimes gutted and and flakes easily. with the head removed. It is dry-salted for a few hours, then hot-smoked in Smoked trout very dense smoke for a few hours. The result is dry, salty, and smoke-flavored, Hot-smoking is an effective way with an intensely fishy taste. of cooking many oil-rich species. It reduces some of the earthiness of the fish, particularly trout. You can buy it whole or as a fillet. The trout’s small size makes it ideal to smoke whole. Hot-smoked fish 385

Cold-smoked fish This method of smoking fish takes swordfish, grouper, and tuna) can Atlantic smoked salmon place over a period of days. The fish simply be sliced and served with is brined, and a relatively heavy salt a squeeze of lemon juice and bread, Both Scottish and Irish smoked salmon are solution is used in order to extract or added to more complex dishes. considered a delicacy, but the price of wild as much moisture from the fish as FLAVOR PAIRINGS Citrus, horseradish, salmon is prohibitively high, and most smoked possible. Temperature is crucial: the delicate herbs including dill and Atlantic salmon is now farmed. It may be smoked product should not reach more than flat-leaf parsley. over peat, applewood, or oak; whisky is also 84ºF (30ºC), so as not to cook the CLASSIC RECIPES Finnan haddock popular. Oak smoke can give an intense taste, flesh or encourage bacterial growth. with poached egg; smoked salmon peat smoke produces quite a sweet woodiness. The fish is smoked for between with capers; kedgeree; Cullen skink. 1 and 5 days, the flavor becoming richer and more intense as time Traditionally, kipper is goes on. Some cold-smoked fish split down the back and may then be cooked (such as smoked on the bone, but it smoked haddock, cod, and pollock). is also available as a fillet. As cold-smoked fish is essentially raw, fish that is not going to be Kipper cooked is frozen at 0ºF (-18ºC) for around 24 hours to destroy parasites A kipper is a cold-smoked herring. It is split down the that may be present in the fish (this back and cleaned, brined, sometimes dyed, then smoked is a legal requirement in some over sawdust fires. English herrings are often considered countries). The flavor of smoked fish the best species of herring for smoking. Many kippers are depends on how long a fish is left particularly fine. Kippers can be broiled or jugged (boiling salted, and how long it is in the water poured over the fish and left to stand). They have smokehouse. The taste of many a dense, intensely salty, sweet, and smoky taste—but it fish—such as oily fish—is enhanced varies according to producer. by smoking. BUY Pick fish that looks dry, glossy, and smells smoked but not too strong. STORE Smoked products have a slightly longer shelf life than fresh fish. They are never placed directly on ice, as with fresh fish, but must be chilled in the refrigerator. EAT Smoked salmon and more artisanal products (such as smoked Bloater Finnan haddock A bloater is a smoked herring. Whole Named after the fishing village of Finnan, this smoked fish are dry-salted in barrels for several hours, fish is popularly referred to as Finnan haddie, and was then cold-smoked over smoldering wood to once the most popular type of smoked fish. To make dry the fish, and give it a lightly smoked flavor. it, the haddock is cleaned, the head is removed, then the fish is opened out flat (left on the bone), brined (sometimes with dye), and smoked—traditionally over peat. The taste is similar to that of smoked, undyed haddock. Finnan haddock with poached egg is a breakfast classic in the UK. The bloater’s skin is easily pulled off to reveal the ready-to-eat flesh under the skin. 386 Fish gallery—Preserved fish

Dyed haddock fillets are excellent for kedgeree, as the color shows up well against the white rice. Undyed haddock is a pale straw Smoked haddock fillets color. Avoid fish that has pink flesh and looks wet, as this Dyed fillets (soaked in brine colored with is a sign of deterioration. tartrazine) and undyed fillets are available. A natural dye made with turmeric and annatto powder is now used by some producers. Dyed haddock can be slightly saltier than undyed, but this depends on the producer. Haddock is a sweet fish and smoking suits it well. Best poached in milk to draw out excess saltiness. During the process, an exterior crust is formed called the pellicle. This is strongly smoked and dry. It is sometimes trimmed away and sold as smoked salmon trimmings, which are perfect for pâté. Smoked haddock is traditionally smoked with the skin on, unlike other white fish. Smoked swordfish For this product, swordfish loin is cold-smoked. It is served raw, thinly sliced, and has a delicate, subtle flavor. Swordfish is quite challenging to smoke, because it can take on a bitter aftertaste and be overpowered by the flavor of the wood used to smoke it. Smoked halibut is best Smoked halibut sliced thinly, as the fish Halibut has a delicate taste and the process of has a slightly dry and smoking it can overpower the natural flavor of firm-textured flesh. the fish. Smoked halibut is available as a fillet or sliced. Serve the raw slices with a simple garnish of dill and a wedge of lemon. Cold-smoked fish 387

Salted fish and Dried fish The earliest form of preservation some shellfish, such as cuttlefish, Salted anchovies was to dry fish in the sun and wind. squid, oysters, shrimp, and scallops. Other fish were preserved in brine or Some salted and dried fish are One of the most popular salted fish, anchovies are also dry-salted. In the Mediterranean, rehydrated, by soaking in several brined. Intensely salty, they are often used to top pizzas eels, anchovies, sardines, herring, changes of water, to draw out as or to garnish Mediterranean dishes such as salade Niçoise. tuna, and roe were commonly much of the salt as possible, and They can be soaked briefly in milk before use to remove salted. One of the earliest dried and then cooked as a fresh fish (the some of the saltiness; this softens and rounds the flavor. salted fish, cod, was caught by boats flavor is more intense than that of that travelled long distances to fish a fresh fish and a gentle, lingering Maatjes herrings are it. The cod was cleaned, air-dried, saltiness is evident). Some fish, such usually eaten whole and and packed in brine or salt for the as Bombay duck and cuttlefish, are unadorned, or simply with voyage home. The process of salting served dried. bread. They have a sweet, fish is influenced by the weather, the CUTS Whole (gutted), split whole fish size and species of fish, and the on the bone, shredded fish strips. intense flavor. quality of the salt used. The fish EAT Poach, pan-fry, or broil. must be completely saturated with FLAVOR PAIRINGS Olive oil, garlic, salt, or “struck through”, to ensure orange, capers, onion, parsley, milk, that it will be safe to eat. There are coconut. two methods of salting—placing the CLASSIC RECIPES Salt fish and fish directly in a brine or packing it achee; salt fishcakes; bacalao; in salt, which in turn creates its own brandade de morue (salt cod purée). brine as moisture is drawn from the fish. The amount of salt used differs Dried tuna loin is from one fish and product to firm and dry, and another. Fish may also be dried to remove moisture content but left best shaved or unsalted. Stockfish is unsalted fish, grated. It tastes usually cod, which is dried by the very strong so only sun and wind on wooden racks, or a little is needed in specially adapted drying houses. to flavor a dish. Other species of white fish, including ling, tusk, gray mullet, bonito, and saithe are dried, as are Dried tuna loin Maatjes herring Mosciame del tonno is a delicacy Hailing from Amsterdam, in Italy and Spain (where it is also maatjes herring is also known called mojama). Strips of tuna loin as virgin herring, as it is made are salted and sun-dried, to make a from young fish that have not produced firm slab that resembles a dried meat. roe. The fish, caught around Norway and It has a rich, meaty flavor and may be Denmark, are soused (soaked in a mild grated to add to pasta and salads. brine). They are only partly gutted, as the offal is key to the success of the curing process. A similar product from Germany is made using more intense brine. Bombay duck Bombay duck is served in its dried state as an The small bummalo fish is native to appetizer. It has a Southeast Asia. It is eaten fresh in India, strong, hearty taste. where it is usually fried to serve as a side dish. It may also be dried in strips and called Bombay duck. It has a strong, aromatic, fishy flavor. 388 Fish gallery—Preserved fish

Dried shrimp These have a distinctive smell that is strongly seafood-like Unshelled shrimp, lightly salted and and also sweet. Soak prior to dried, are used extensively in China, use, or use dry as a seasoning. Southeast Asia, and parts of Africa. They are usually added to a dish to give it a depth of flavor. These scallops have a strong flavor and very dry texture. Use dry or soak in water to rehydrate. Dried scallops Dried scallops are used extensively in the cuisine of the Far East. One popular recipe is as part of a spicy chile salsa. They add a dynamic seafood flavor and a certain sweetness to a dish when used whole or grated. Salt pollock ▼ Salt pollock is usually sold as a fillet or in strips, often Alaskan pollock is abundant. Salted pollock is popular in the Far East and Caribbean. It ready pinboned. requires a long soak before use; is excellent poached or used in fishcakes. It has a milder flavor than salt cod. Good with spices and mashed potato. Salt mackerel is available Salt mackerel both as whole gutted and This product is popular in the salted fish, and as fillets. Far East, particularly in Korea. The fish must be soaked in cold water overnight before use. Poach for about 30 minutes and use for pâté or salad; it is also good pan-fried. After soaking, the fish still has a strong salty taste, and the flesh is a little fibrous. Salt cod is sold as whole split fish, fillets, loins, and in strips. Strips are quickest to use. Salt cod Dried unsalted cod is called stockfish and used in several countries in soup and as an additional ingredient. Salt cod is prepared in Scandinavia, and is also a speciality in Portugal, which is exported globally. It requires 36–48 hours of soaking, in several changes of water, prior to use. A salty taste is present once cooked, and the flavor is strong and almost meaty, with little comparison to fresh cod. Salted fish and Dried fish 389

Fish roe Although the roe of both male and months. Caviar substitutes treated Sevruga caviar Salted herring roe has a female fish is edible, it is the “hard” in a similar way include the roe of delicate fish taste with roe, or eggs, of the female fish that Pacific salmon (or keta), Atlantic After beluga and oscietra, a slight lemony tang, has gained extraordinary heights as salmon, salmon trout, trout, sevruga ranks third in the and a hint of salt. a delicacy, and often fetches a lumpfish, capelin, carp (or icre), and line-up of popular sturgeon premium price. The milt or “soft” roe flying fish (tobiko). There is even a caviars. Of the three, sevruga is the soft male roe or sperm of some seaweed caviar now available. eggs are the least expensive species, particularly herring, and it is Non-caviar roes are sold either fresh and most readily available, also sometimes valued as a delicacy, or preserved, whether salted and as the fish matures relatively especially in Europe. Several species dried, or smoked. Most eggs are soft early at 7 years old. Although of fish produce excellent “hard” and translucent, with a salty taste small, the eggs are a rich and “soft” roe, whether for use as and grainy texture. metallic gray, with an intense a garnish or stand-alone hors- SUSTAINABILITY The popularity flavor, often preferred to that d’oeuvre, and many countries of sturgeon roe has led to of beluga or oscietra. favor specific varieties. In Japan, overexploitation, with many kazunoko, the salted eggs of herring, species now almost extinct. Salted herring roe are most popular. In Southeast Asia, Sturgeon are now being farmed in a particular favorite is crab roe, France. Other alternatives include A popular alternative to harvested from female mud crabs. icre, herring roe, and keta. caviar, lightly salted herring In Europe, “caviare”, originally the AVAILABILITY Caviars: Fresh and roe is marketed under name for the eggs of sturgeon, has pasteurized. Other roes: Fresh, various names. It is better long been prized. Traditionally the salted, smoked. than lumpfish roe, as it does three most celebrated sturgeon EAT Usually raw, except for fresh not run color, making it ideal caviars—beluga, oscietra, and cod and haddock roes, and herring as a canapé topping. sevruga—were processed by the milt, which is served cooked. Russians and Iranians. Methods FLAVOR PAIRINGS Caviars: Melba of preparation vary. With most toast, chopped egg white, chopped “caviar”-type products, the female onion, parsley. Soft herring roes: roe is harvested, rinsed to remove Butter, capers, lemon. Smoked roe: the egg membrane, lightly salted, Olive oil, garlic, lemon. drained of excess liquid, then CLASSIC RECIPES Taramasalata; packed. Many are also pasteurized caviar with scrambled eggs; grated to extend their shelf life by a few bottarga with truffle oil and linguine. ◀ Beluga caviar Herring roe ▲▼ Illegal in some countries, beluga is considered Marketed under a variety of names, female herring the grandest of caviars. The beluga sturgeon (Huso roe is now readily available and sold as a low-cost huso) is the biggest of the family and known to live alternative to other caviars. It competes on the for up to 20 years. The eggs are large, soft, and market with lumpfish roe, but is unlikely to be smoky gray in color. It is one of the most expensive dyed, making it ideal as a garnish. Kazunoko, caviars and traditionally served with a round-edge, a salted variety, is a Japanese delicacy. mother-of-pearl spoon, to protect the eggs. Bottarga di muggine Huevas de mujol or poutargue The amber-colored eggs of gray mullet, sometimes called the “poor man’s caviar”, are a Mediterranean delicacy. Traditionally, the eggs are washed, salted, pressed, and sun-dried, then dipped in beeswax to hold their flavor. To serve, the roe can be thinly sliced, or freshly grated and tossed into pasta (but not cooked). 390 Fish gallery

Lumpfish roe The keta eggs have an exquisite, glossy The small eggs of this appearance. unextraordinary fish are often dyed black or orange. As the eggs taste salty and textured, they are best suited as a garnish for blinis (pancakes) or sour cream. When untreated, the roe can be any color of the rainbow. It is usually dyed black or orange. Flying fish roe ▶ Keta Tobiko Large, translucent, and bright orange, keta eggs come The Japanese delicacy tobiko is from the Pacific salmon keta (or chum). The roe makes fast gaining global recognition. an excellent garnish for canapés or sushi. Keta caviar is A fine-grained, crunchy textured often used in small quantities, as the eggs, once broken, roe, it is naturally golden. release a rich salmon-oil taste that is quite exceptional. Although flying fish roe can serve as a stand-alone dish, it is most often used as a garnish to sushi. It can be dyed black with cuttlefish ink, or turned delicate green from wasabi paste. The finest smoked cod’s roe comes from Icelandic cod. Its thick skin binds the roe well during smoking. Pan-fry the eggs of Smoked cod’s roe ▲ “hard” herring roe for a subtle flavor and A popular alternative to the fresh firm, crunchy texture. variety, the smoked roe of cod, ling, and gray mullet is mainly used for the “Soft” herring roe is at its very Turkish and Greek dish taramasalata. best dipped in seasoned flour, The intensive process of salting and pan-fried in butter, and served smoking gives this variety a particularly with a splash of lemon. It has dense texture and rich flavor. a rich, creamy taste. Fresh cod’s roe Both the “hard” roe from cod and the much smaller eggs of haddock are popular in the northern hemisphere. The roe is first blanched to set it hard, then sliced, panéed with flour, egg, and crumb, before being deep-fried. The smaller haddock eggs are simply rolled in seasoned flour and fried. Fish roe 391

Index Page numbers in bold indicate B Fish with tomatoes, potatoes, & Monkfish wrapped in prosciutto (a) 212 information on the uses, availability, onions147 Thai red curry with snapper (a) 152 and sustainability of the fish, and their baking techniques 255, 298 Vietnamese caramel monkfish (a) 142 descriptions in the Fish Gallery. en papillote 197, 198, 299 Garlic & rice wine steamed razor clams caviar 390 (a) 231 Poached turbot with Champagne & Page numbers in italics indicate Balmain bug 376 techniques and equipment used in barnacle, goose 383 Grilled sea bass with roast artichokes & oysters (a) 220 choosing, preparing, and cooking the barracuda 322–3 fennel (a) 245 salmon keta see keta caviar fish, including suggested Flavor cephalopods 256, 380–2 Pairings. Thai red curry with snapper (a) 152 Hungarian roast carp (a) 214 see also specific cephalopods (eg squid) barramundi 344–5 Italian seafood stew 138 ceviche, Seafood 60–1 The symbol (a) indicates an bass 329 Mango & snapper broth (a) 97 char 224, 354–5 alternative, i.e. the use of a fish other Prawn balti (a) 163 Poached salmon with cilantro & lime than the one named in the recipe title. for recipes see sea bass Salmon en papillote (a) 197 batters Sea bass with black bean sauce (a) 226 butter (a) 224 A Sea bass in a salt crust (a) 207 Poached salmon with dill butter (a) 224 Deep-fried haddock in beer batter Sea bream en papillote 198 Steamed trout filled with herbs (a) 229 abalone (fresh or canned) 366 190–1 Shallow-fried red mullet (a) 168 cheeks 259, 261 Abalone with oyster sauce 44 Steamed carp in beer sauce (a) 228 Pan-fried shrimp in garlic butter (a) 183 Fried calamari 65 Thai green fish curry with snow peas Scallops with bacon (a) 65 Alaskan pollock 9, 316 frying techniques & timings 308–9 cheese for recipes see pollock Tempura 191 152 Anchovy, olive, & basil tarts 35 Bavarian char, Steamed sea saibling Thai green fish curry with mixed Coquilles St. Jacques 124–5 amande 369 filled with herbs 229 Haddock mornay 126 amberjack 330 bay scallops 370 vegetables 152 Light smoked mackerel pâté 36 American lobster 375 beluga caviar 390 brill 248, 364–5 Lobster thermidor 250 American sharptooth catfish 346–7 bisques Mixed fish stew with croutons 133 American striped bass 329 Creamy scallop 92 Asian halibut en papillote (a) 197 Salmon, horseradish, & kale bake 126 American yellow perch 350–1 Lobster 90–1 Grilled halibut curry (a) 154 Salmon in puff pastry 119 anchovies 32, 309, 343, 388 bivalves 256, 279 Halibut in rosemary & garlic crust (a) Smoked trout, fennel, & mascarpone see also specific bivalves (eg mussels) Anchovies on toast 68 black pomfret 158, 333 204 crostini 31 Anchovy butter 248 for recipes see pomfret Lemon sole with herbs (a) 203 Smoked trout & pancetta salad 75 Anchovy dressing 81, 179 black sea bream 245, 320 Roasted salmon with Swiss chard & Tuna & pasta bake 127 Anchovy, olive, & basil tarts 35 Grilled sea bass with roast artichokes & chinook salmon 357 Anchovy & olive bruschetta 30 herb butter (a) 196 chips, Fish & pumpkin chips 186 Fish with tomatoes, potatoes, & onions fennel (a) 245 broiling techniques 306 Chirashi sushi 50–1 bloater 386 choosing fish 147 block filleting 269 lobster 290 diversify 10, 135 Fritto misto di pesce 188 bloodline, removing 266, 272 brook trout 355 farmed fish 9–11, 353 Herring salad with potatoes & beet blue cod 319 fishing & catching methods 8, 11, 46, blue crab 378 for recipes see trout (a) 78 bogue 321 broths see soups 239, 301 Layered marinated herring salad (a) 74 brown edible crab 378–9 fishmongers 11 Marinated anchovies 32–3 Italian seafood stew 138 brown shrimp 377 freshness & quality 256 Pan-fried scallops with chile, ginger, boiling brown trout 354 frozen fish 11 local catches 89 & an anchovy dressing 179 crab 289 Whole poached & dressed salmon (a) 224 seasonality 11, 181 Pasta with anchovies, chile, & lemon 113 lobster 291 for additional recipes see trout sustainability 8–11 Pissaladière 120 Bombay duck 388 bruschetta, Anchovy & olive 30 chowders Salade Niçoise 73 boning 267, 276 buckling 384–5 Brandied lobster 86 Salsa verde 194 pinboning 255, 271 butterflying shrimp 285 Cod & mussel 86 Seafood & fennel salad with anchovy bonito 338–9 butters Manhattan cod & mussel 85 Cured mackerel sashimi with salad (a) 52 Anchovy 248 New England clam 84–5 dressing 81 Penne with tuna & roasted onion (a) 111 Cilantro & lime 224 Salmon, with whiskey 87 Seared tuna with cucumber & fennel bottarga di muggine (salted gray Dill 224 chub mackerel 339 mullet roe) 390 Garlic 183 citrus curing, Seafood ceviche 60–1 170 Taramasalata (a) 40 Herb 196 clams 107, 256, 257, 279, 368–9 Smoked fish & anchovy gratin 123 Bourride 223 Herbed lemon 230 Brodetto abruzzese 85 Spaghetti puttanesca 108 braising techniques 303 Maître d’hôtel 188, 236 Caldereta asturiana 130 Tapenade 39 Brandade de morue 38–9 Mustard 248 Clams in white wine 44 Angulate periwinkle 367 bread & toast Cod & mussel chowder (a) 86 Arbroath smokie 384 Anchovies on toast 68 C Fideua 106–7 Arctic char 355 Broiled sardines on toast 68 Garlic & rice wine steamed razor clams Atlantic cod 314 bruschetta & crostini 30–1 calamari see squid Atlantic halibut 363 croustades 34 Caldereta asturiana 130 231 Atlantic herring 343 Pissaladière 120 canoeing 267 Ligurian fish stew 130–1 Atlantic mackerel 338 Sesame prawn toasts 35 carp 214, 309, 348–9 Linguine alle vongole 107 Atlantic needlefish 358–9 bream (freshwater/carp bream) 349 Mouclade (a) 90 Atlantic salmon 356–7 bream (sea bream) 200, 245, 309, 320–1 Gefilte fish 67 Moules marinières (a) 40 Atlantic whiting 318 Baked bream 204 Hungarian fish goulash 140–1 Mussels in fennel broth (a) 132 Atlantic wolf fish 326–7 Baked salmon with salsa verde & Hungarian roast carp 214 Mussels in ginger & chile broth (a) 132 Australian whiting 317 Pike with herb crust (a) 207 New England clam chowder 84–5 cucumber (a) 194 Steamed carp in beer sauce 228 Oysters with lemon & Tabasco (a) 42 Broiled sea bream with spice rub 237 Truite au bleu (a) 220 Chinese-style steamed bass (a) 228 carpaccio, Tuna 60 Coconut & turmeric curry of red catfish 346–7 Balinese spicy mackerel (a) 172–3 snapper (a) 150 Goan curry (a) 158 Grilled sea bass with roast artichokes & fennel (a) 245 392 Index

Oysters with shallot & vinegar dressing see also salt cod; smoked cod Pike with herb crust 206–7 deep-frying techniques & timings (a) 42 cod cheeks, Pan-fried shrimp in garlic Sea bass in a salt crust 207 308–9 Seared tuna with a black sesame seed Pan-fried clams with parsley & garlic 179 butter (a) 183 deep-water prawn 377 Pineapple curry of mussels (a) 150 cod’s roe 391 crust 170 dentex 321 Potato & clam soup 96 Cullen skink 97 deveining shrimp 285 Red mullet dieppoise (a) 177 Taramasalata 40 curing dip, Salt cod & red pepper 36 Spaghetti with clams 110 cold-smoked fish 386–7 dolphin fish see mahi mahi Spinach linguine with white clam sauce in citrus (Seafood ceviche) 60–1 Dory 324 see also specific fish (eg smoked fillets for sushi 294 110 haddock) in salt (Gravadlax) 296 for recipes see John Dory Steamed lobster with herbed lemon in vinegar (Rollmops) 297 Dover sole 194, 364 coley see saithe curries butter (a) 230 common carp 348–9 Chile crab 162 Sole with basil & pinenuts 194–5 Waterzooi (a) 98 common gray mullet 322 Coconut fish curry 157 Sole bonne femme 218 clams (canned), Canned clam linguine common mussel 371 Coconut & turmeric curry of red snapper Sole Colbert 188–9 107 common northern whelk 367 dressings classic filleting 268 common octopus 381 150 Anchovy 81, 179 cockles 368 common pandora 320 Crab & mango curry 163 Fish sauce, chile & cilantro 74 Chile crab with grapefruit & cilantro common squid 380 Crab stir-fried with curry powder 146 Fish sauce & lime 77 conch 366 Fish head curry 158 Harissa 250 (a) 76 conger eel 359 Goan curry 158–9 Honey, mirin, & rice wine 52 Classic shrimp cocktail (a) 55 cooking techniques 284, 289, 291, Green curry of shrimp with eggplant Mango & lime 76 Coquilles St. Jacques (a) 124–5 Mint yogurt 75 Crab salad with grapefruit & cilantro 298–311 & basil 161 Mustard & dill 62 Coquilles St. Jacques 124–5 Green shrimp curry with fresh dill Shallot & vinegar 42 (a) 76 coral trout 328 Vinaigrettes/French dressings 73, 76, 78, Paella 102–3 Cotriade 93 162 Shrimp cocktail, Mexican-style (a) 55 coulibiac, Salmon 118–19 Grilled halibut curry 154 93, 203, 231 Scallop & pesto crostini (a) 31 Court bouillon 231, 302 Kenyan fish curry 151 Yam pla fu 72–3 Spaghetti with clams (a) 110 crab 137, 255, 256, 257, 262–3, 286–9, Laksa lemak 156–7 Yogurt, parsley & capers 229 cod 58, 309, 314–15 Mahi mahi curry 155 see also mayonnaise Balinese spicy mackerel (a) 172–3 378–9 Pineapple curry of mussels 150 dried fish 388–9 Baked saithe in wine & herbs (a) 202 Brandied lobster chowder (a) 86 Prawn balti 163 drum 334 Bouillabaisse 137 Chile crab 162 Prawn dhansak 161 Dublin Bay prawns 103, 256, 257, 285, Bourride (a) 223 Chile crab with grapefruit & cilantro 76 Salmon jungle curry 154 Broiled cod steaks with maître d’hôtel Crab balls 57 Seafood curry 155 286, 373 Crab croustades 34 Shallow-fried masala sardines 166 Crab croustades (a) 34 butter 236 Crab & mango curry 163 Squid curry 160 Crab & mango salad (a) 76 Cod & mussel chowder (a) 86 Crab & mango salad 76 Steamed scallop curry 160 Dublin Bay prawns with lemon & garlic Cod in tomato sauce 175 Crab salad with grapefruit & cilantro Stir-fried yellow curried crabs 147 Creamy scallop bisque 92 Tamarind fish curry 151 mayo 28 Deep-fried haddock in beer batter (a) 76 Thai green fish curry with mixed Lobster salad with watercress (a) 80 Crab stir-fried with curry powder 146 Lobster Thermidor (a) 250 190–1 Dressed crab 70–1 vegetables 152 Paella 102–3 Fideua 106–7 Lobster salad with watercress (a) 80 Thai green fish curry with snow peas Simple Italian roast lobster (a) 214 Fish sticks with chunky tartar sauce 171 Maryland crab cakes 56 dumplings, Quenelles 305 Fish head curry (a) 158 Nori maki 48–9 152 Dungeness crab 378 Fish with tomatoes, potatoes, & onions Pasta with crab & lemon 111 Thai red curry with snapper 152–3 Piquant pasta with crab & lemon 111 cuskeel 334–5 E 147 Prawn, grapefruit, & avocado salad (a) 77 cutlass fish (scabbard fish) 340 Fisherman’s pie 117 Seafood & tomato cioppino 130 cuts eel 358 Gefilte fish 67 Shrimp gumbo 136–7 flat fish 260–1 smoked eel 384 Haddock, green bean, & artichoke Shrimp spring rolls (a) 56 round fish 258–9 Stir-fried yellow curried crabs 147 see also specific cuts & associated eggs paella (a) 104 Thai crab cakes 58–9 Egg fu yung 187 Halibut in rosemary & garlic crust (a) 204 crawfish see freshwater crawfish; rock techniques (eg steaks & steaking) Fisherman’s pie 117 Herbed fish goujons 68 lobster cuttlefish 256, 283, 309, 382–3 Japanese omelet 50 Individual fish crumbles 117 crevalle jack 330–1 Omelet Arnold Bennett 175 Lingurian fish stew 130 crevette rose 377 Calamari salad with mint & dill (a) 80 Pad Thai 144 Manhattan cod & mussel chowder 85 croaker 334 Fried calamari (a) 65 Quick fish pie with peas 116 Mixed fried fish 186 crostini Marinated squid salad (a) 81 Salade Niçoise 73 Monkfish in spicy tomato sauce (a) 138 Scallop & pesto 31 Squid curry (a) 160 Salmon coulibiac 118–19 Pollock with spinach & pine nuts (a) 174 Smoked salmon & pancetta 30 Squid in olive oil & paprika (a) 66 Potage poissonière (a) 94 Smoked trout, fennel, & mascarpone Stuffed squid, Naples-style (a) 200 Empanadas 124 Quick fish pie with peas 116 Thai green fish curry with mixed Empanaditas 124 Roast cod with garlic 210 31 emperor bream 168, 322 Shrimp gumbo (a) 137 croustades vegetables 152 Seafood curry 155 Thai green fish curry with snow peas Vietnamese crispy fish 168 Spiced haddock with coconut, chile, & Crab 34 en papillote baking 197, 198, 299 Rich smoked salmon 34 152 equipment & tools 254–5 lime (a) 171 Salmon & tarragon cream 34 cuttlefish ink, Risotto nero 103 Escabeche 54–5 Tarte au poissons 120–1 crumbles, Individual fish 117 escolar (snake mackerel) 340 Teriyaki fish with noodles 205 crustaceans 255, 256, 257, 373–9 D European anchovy 343 Thai fishcakes (a) 58 see also specific crustaceans (eg European eel 358 Thai green fish curry with mixed dab 188, 362 European hake 318 shrimp) Flounder with smoked bacon (a) 183 European sprat 342 vegetables 152 crusts Sole Colbert (a) 188 eyes, choosing fish 256 Thai green fish curry with snow peas Halibut in rosemary & garlic crust 204 dead man’s fingers 263, 286, 287, 288 152 debearding mussels 278 Index 393

F G Salmon fishcakes (a) 56 I, J Seafood curry 155 farmed fish 9, 10–11, 353 garfish 357 Seafood risotto 105 Indian goatfish 323 feel, choosing fish 256 gastropods (univalves) 256 Spiced haddock with coconut, chile, & jack 330 Fideua 106–7 Japanese flying fish 358–9 fillets & filleting see also specific gastropods (eg whelks) lime 171 jewfish 328 Gefilte fish 67 Sweet & sour stir-fried fish with ginger John Dory 130, 309, 324 flat fish 260–1, 274–5, 276 geoduck clam 368–9 monkfish tail 270 giant black tiger prawns 240, 377 145 Brodetto abruzzese 85 pinboning & skinning 271 gills Tarte au poissons 120–1 Ligurian fish stew 130–1 refrigerating & freezing 257 see also smoked haddock round fish 258–9, 268–9, 271 choosing fish 256 hake 85, 309, 318 K skate wings 277 crabs 263, 286, 287, 288 Brodetto abruzzese 85 sole 276 gutting through the gills 266 Caldereta asturiana 130 kedgeree, Smoked fish 105 sushi & sashimi 292, 294 removing 264, 272 Fisherman’s pie 117 keta caviar 50, 391 tools 254 gilt-head bream 200, 320 Individual fish crumbles 117 see also specific cooking techniques Grilled sea bass with roast artichokes & Quick fish pie with peas 116 Salmon rillettes 37 Red mullet Dieppoise (a) 177 Tamaki sushi 50 (eg frying) fennel (a) 245 Roast hake with remoulade 198–9 Tobiko & cucumber nori maki 48 Finnan haddock 386 goatfish 323 Sea bass with tomato sauce (a) 200–1 kettles, fish 255, 302 golden threadfin bream 321 halibut 60, 309, 363 king prawns Cullen skink 97 goose barnacle 383 Asian halibut en papillote 197 see tiger prawns fish heads 259, 261 goujons, Herbed fish 68 Bouillabaisse 137 kingclip 334–5 goulash, Hungarian fish 140–1 Broiled halibut with anchovy butter (a) kingfish (king mackerel) 48, 338–9 Fish head curry 158 grass carp 348 Chirashi sushi 50 fish stock 310 Gravadlax 296 248 Kingfish nigiri 48 fish kettles 255, 302 grayling 354 Broiled halibut with beurre blanc Shrimp gumbo (a) 137 fish roe 390–1 gray gurnard 325 kippers 386 see also specific roes (eg tobiko) 244–5 Smoked fish kedgeree (a) 105 fish stock 310 for recipes see gurnard Grilled halibut curry 154 knives 254–5 fishcakes gray mullet 128, 322 Halibut with chunky romesco 208 knobs, skate 277 Crab balls 57 Halibut in rosemary & garlic crust 204 kob 334 Maryland crab cakes 56 Baked salmon with salsa verde & Leaf-wrapped Asian sole (a) 230 Salmon fishcakes 56 cucumber (a) 194 Poached turbot with Champagne & L Smoked haddock & herb fishcakes 57 Thai crab cakes 58–9 Brodetto abruzzese 85 oysters (a) 220 kore, Laotian 147 Thai fishcakes 58 Italian seafood stew 138 Pollock with spinach and pine nuts 174 Laksa lemak 156–7 fishmongers 47 Pike with herb crust (a) 207 Seafood ceviche 60–1 landing size 9 flaps 259 Samak maquli (a) 184 smoked halibut 387 lane snapper 332 flat fish Sea bass in a salt crust (a) 207 Sole veronique (a) 218 langoustines see Dublin Bay prawns choosing & storing 256, 257 Shallow-fried red mullet (a) 168 Spinach-wrapped sole (a) 230 Laotian kore 147 cuts 260–1 Spicy, saucy monkfish (a) 133 Steamed halibut with dill butter sauce lemon sole 184, 361 Flounder with smoked bacon (a) 183 Yam pla fu (a) 73 Lemon sole with herbs (a) 203 see also salted gray mullet roe & cucumber 226 Broiled halibut with anchovy butter (a) preparation 272–7 greater amberjack 330 hard roe 390–1 248 serving whole 311 green-lipped mussels 371 hard-shell clams 369 Skate with beurre noire & capers (a) grilling techniques 306 Flounder with smoked bacon (a) 183 grouper 328 Mussels in ginger & chile broth (a) 132 Herbed fish goujons 68 223 grunt 334 Oysters with lemon & Tabasco (a) 42 Leaf-wrapped Asian sole 230 Sole bonne femme (a) 218 gumbo, Shrimp 136–7 Oysters with shallot & vinegar dressing Lemon sole with herbs 203 Sole Colbert (a) 188–9 gurnard 210, 309, 325 Roast hake with remoulade (a) 198 tools 254 Roast gurnard with bacon 210–11 (a) 42 Sole with basil & pinenuts (a) 194–5 Waterzooi (a) 98 Steamed trout in lettuce (a) 229 heads, removing 265, 273 Sole Colbert (a) 188 see also specific cooking techniques gutting 266 herring 309, 342–3 Sole meunière 184 Sole veronique 218–19 (eg poaching); specific fish (eg plaice) H Bouillabaisse 137 Spinach-wrapped sole 230 Florida pompano 330–1 Broiled herring with mustard butter Steamed fish with warm sherry flounder 309 haddock 191, 309, 316 Baked saithe in wine & herbs (a) 202 248–9 vinaigrette 231 Bouillabaisse 137 Bourride (a) 223 Broiled sardines on toast (a) 68 Steamed fish with warm vinaigrette 231 Broiled halibut with anchovy butter Büsumer fish soup 96 Butterflied sardines stuffed with Tamaki sushi 50 Cod in tomato sauce (a) 175 Tamarind fish curry (a) 151 (a) 248 Cotriade 93 tomatoes & capers (a) 203 Tempura 191 Flounder with smoked bacon 183 Deep-fried haddock in beer batter 190–1 Grilled sardines in harissa (a) 250 Waterzooi 98 Poached turbot with champagne & Fish & leek pie 116 Grilled sardines with salsa verde 243 line-caught fish 8, 239 Fish sticks with chunky tartar sauce Herring salad with potatoes & beet ling 317 oysters (a) 220 171 Cotriade (a) 93 Sole with basil & pinenuts (a) 194–5 Fish with tomatoes, potatoes, & onions 78–9 Potage poissonière (a) 94 Sole Colbert (a) 188 147 Herrings in oatmeal with gooseberry Roast cod with garlic (a) 210 flying fish 358–9 Fisherman’s pie 117 see also salt ling flying fish roe see tobiko Haddock, green bean, & artichoke sauce 237 linguine see pasta freezing & refrigerating 257 paella 104 Layered marinated herring salad 74 little neck clams, Mussels in fennel freshness & quality 256 Haddock mornay 126 Maatjes herring 389 broth (a) 132 (a) 132 freshwater crawfish 70, 286, 373 Halibut in rosemary & garlic crust (a) 204 Mackerel with garlic & tomatoes (a) lobster 255, 256, 257, 290–1, 375 Chile crab (a) 162 Herbed fish goujons 68 Brandied lobster chowder 86 Crawfish sauté with spicy tomatoes Individual fish crumbles 117 209 Classic shrimp cocktail (a) 55 Kenyan fish curry 151 Mackerel roasted with harissa & lime (a) Crab croustades (a) 34 70 Mixed fish stew with croutons 133 Crab & mango salad (a) 76 freshwater fish Potage poissonière (a) 94 208 Lobster bisque 90–1 Quick fish pie with peas 116 Mediterranean-style broiled sardines (a) Lobster & papaya 28 Truite au bleu (a) 220 Roast cod with garlic (a) 210 see also specific fish (eg carp) 243 Fritto misto di pesce 188 Pan-fried mackerel in rolled oats (a) frozen fish 89 frying techniques & timings 308–9 166 fugu (puffer fish) 341 roe 390–1 Rollmops 297 Shallow-fried masala sardines (a) 166 smoked herring 384–5, 386 hot-smoked fish 307, 384–5 see also specific fish (eg smoked mackerel) 394 Index

Lobster salad with watercress 80 Marine Conservation Society (MCS) 9, moray eel 359 ocean sticks Lobster Thermidor 250 10 Moreton Bay bug 376 Nori maki 48 Monkfish Americaine (a) 127 morid cod 319 Tamaki sushi 50 Pasta with crab & lemon (a) 111 Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) 9 Mouclade 90 Prawn, grapefruit, & avocado salad (a) 77 marlin 341 moules see mussels octopus 142, 256, 284, 309, 381 Simple Italian roast lobster 214–15 mousse, Smoked trout 37 Marinated squid salad (a) 81 Steamed lobster with herbed lemon Black sesame tuna salad (a) 170 MSC (Marine Stewardship Council) 9 Spicy stir-fried squid (a) 142 Grilled swordfish (a) 234 mullet see gray mullet; red mullet; salted Squid curry (a) 160 butter 230 Grilled swordfish with fennel & Squid in olive oil & paprika (a) 66 lobsterette 373 gray mullet roe Stuffed squid, Naples-style (a) 200 sun-dried tomatoes (a) 236 mulloway 334 for recipes see Dublin Bay prawns Seared tuna with a black sesame seed murex 367 oil temperatures, frying 308 loins 259 Murray cod 344–5 oily fish 256 lugs 259 crust (a) 170 mussels 10, 90, 256, 257, 278, 279, 353, lumpfish roe 391 Seared tuna with cucumber & fennel (a) Bouillabaisse 137 371 see also specific fish (eg mackerel) Rich smoked salmon croustades 34 170 Bouillabaisse 137 omelets Skewered swordfish with caperberries Bourride 223 Japanese omelet 50 M Brodetto abruzzese 85 Omelet Arnold Bennett 175 (a) 205 Caldereta asturiana 130 orange roughy 8, 319 Maatjes herring 389 Swordfish baked with herbs (a) 202 Clams in white wine (a) 44 overfishing 8 mackerel 172, 309, 338–9 mayonnaise Cod & mussel chowder 86 oysters 42, 255, 256, 257, 278, 279, 372, Chervil & mustard 80 Fish soup with fennel 92 384 Balinese spicy mackerel 172–3 Horseradish 78 Laksa lemak 156–7 Oysters with lemon & Tabasco 42 Barbecued mackerel, or herring, with Lemon & garlic 28 Linguine alla vongole (a) 107 Oysters Rockefeller 42 meagre 334 Manhattan cod & mussel chowder 85 Oysters with salsa verde 243 salsa verde 243 Escabeche (a) 54–5 Mouclade 90 Oysters with shallot & vinegar dressing Broiled herring with mustard butter (a) Yam pla fu (a) 73 Moules marinières 40–1 megrim 364 Mussels in fennel broth 132 42–3 248 microwaving techniques 303 Mussels in ginger & chile broth 132 Poached turbot with Champagne & Broiled sardines on toast (a) 68 molluscs 256, 279 New England clam chowder (a) 85 Butterflied sardines stuffed with see also specific molluscs (eg mussels) Paella 102–3 oysters 220–1 monkfish 212, 270, 303, 335 Pan-fried clams with parsley & garlic (a) smoked oysters 384 tomatoes & capers (a) 203 Broiled scallops with prosciutto & lime Chirashi sushi 50 179 P Cured mackerel nigiri 48 (a) 45 Pasta with seafood & tomatoes 113 Cured mackerel sashimi with salad 52–3 Caldereta asturiana 130 Pineapple curry of mussels 150 Pacific cod 315 Grilled mackerel with salsa verde Dublin Bay prawns with lemon & garlic Poached turbot with Champagne & Pacific halibut 363 Pacific oysters 372 243 mayo (a) 28 oysters (a) 220 Pacific salmon 356–7 Grilled sardines in harissa (a) 250 Fideua 106–7 Potato & clam soup (a) 96 Herrings in oatmeal with gooseberry Fish soup with fennel 92 Red mullet dieppoise 177 for recipes see salmon Garlic & rice wine steamed razor clams Seafood & fennel salad with anchovy Pacific white shrimp 377 sauce (a) 237 Pad Thai 144 Mackerel with garlic & tomatoes 209 (a) 231 dressing 81 Paella 102–3 Mackerel roasted with harissa & lime Grilled monkfish with melon 28 Seafood & tomato cioppino 130 Halibut in rosemary & garlic crust (a) 204 smoked mussels 307, 384 Haddock, green bean, & artichoke 208 Linguine with scallops (a) 112 Spaghetti with clams (a) 110 paella 104 Mediterranean-style broiled sardines (a) Marinated skewered scallops (a) 45 Spaghetti frutti di mare 108–9 Mixed fish stew with croutons 133 Spinach linguine with white clam sauce pan-frying techniques & timings 308–9 243 Monkfish Americaine 127 pandora 320 Pan-fried mackerel in rolled oats 166 Monkfish in spicy tomato sauce 138–9 (a) 110 papillote baking 197, 198, 299 Pan-fried trout with almonds (a) 172 Monkfish wrapped in prosciutto 212 Steamed lobster with herbed lemon pasta Penne with tuna & roasted onion (a) 111 Pad Thai (a) 144 salt mackerel 389 Pan-fried shrimp in garlic butter (a) 183 butter (a) 230 Clam linguine 107 Samak maquli 184 Pan-fried shrimp, olives, & tomatoes (a) Waterzooi 98 Fideua 106–7 Sautéed trout with hazelnuts (a) 174 Linguine alle vongole 107 Shallow-fried masala sardines (a) 166 178 N Linguine with scallops 112 Steamed fish with warm sherry Pan-fried scallops with chile, ginger, & Pasta with anchovies, chile, & lemon 113 native oysters 372 Pasta with crab & lemon 111 vinaigrette 231 an anchovy dressing (a) 179 needlefish 358–9 Pasta with seafood & tomatoes 113 Steamed fish with warm vinaigrette 231 Prawn balti (a) 163 New Zealand blue cod 319 Penne with tuna & roasted onion 111 Steamed trout filled with herbs (a) Roast gurnard with bacon (a) 210–11 Nigiri 48 Piquant pasta with crab & lemon 111 Salmon jungle curry (a) 154 Nile perch 344–5 Spaghetti with clams 110 229 Saltimbocca of salmon (a) 167 noisettes 259 Spaghetti frutti di mare 108–9 see also bonito; kingfish; smoked Scallop & pesto crostini (a) 31 noodles Spaghetti mare e monti 112 Scallop & tobiko sashimi (a) 52 Spaghetti puttanesca 108 mackerel Scallops with bacon (a) 65 Laksa lemak 156–7 Spinach linguine with white clam sauce mackerel (canned) Scallops skewered with Parma ham (a) 45 Pad Thai 144 Scallops with sweet chili sauce (a) 66 Soba noodles with shrimp & avocado 110 Tuna & bean salad (a) 78 Seafood ceviche 60–1 Tuna & pasta bake 127 Tuna & pasta bake (a) 127 Shrimp diabolo (a) 146 145 Patagonian toothfish 198, 324–5 mahi mahi (dolphin fish) 246, 309, 330–1 Spicy, saucy monkfish 133 Teriyaki fish with noodles 205 Bourride (a) 223 Grilled sea bass with roast artichokes & Spicy shrimp with garlic (a) 178 Nori maki 48–9 Grilled snapper in banana leaves (a) Steamed carp in beer sauce (a) 228 northern pike 350–1 fennel (a) 245 Steamed trout in lettuce (a) 229 Norway haddock (redfish) 327 234 Grilled snapper in banana leaves (a) Sweet & sour shrimp (a) 144 Roast cod with garlic (a) 210 Thai fishcakes (a) 58 O Roast hake with remoulade (a) 198 234 Thai green fish curry with mixed pâté, Smoked mackerel 36 Grilled swordfish (a) 234 oats pearls see cheeks Grilled swordfish with fennel & vegetables 152 Herrings in oatmeal with gooseberry peeling shrimp 285 Thai green fish curry with snow peas sauce 237 perch 350–1 sun-dried tomatoes (a) 246 Pan-fried mackerel in rolled oats 166 Hungarian roast carp (a) 214 Grilled tuna steaks with salsa (a) 246 152 Pike with herb crust (a) 207 Halibut with chunky romesco (a) 208 Tuna & eggplant yakitori skewers with ocean perch (redfish) 327 Truite au bleu (a) 220 Jerk salmon (a) 246 periwinkles 255, 281, 367 Laksa lemak (a) 157 soy dipping sauce (a) 28 Mahi mahi curry 155 Vietnamese caramel monkfish 142 Skewered swordfish with caperberries Waterzooi 98 (a) 205 Teriyaki fish with noodles 205 Tuna & eggplant yakitori skewers with soy dipping sauce (a) 28 Index 395

Spaghetti with clams (a) 110 pompano 330–1 rice Gravadlax 296 Squid in olive oil & paprika (a) 66 poor cod 314 Haddock, green bean, & artichoke Halibut in rosemary & garlic crust (a) 204 Pesto 167, 209 pout whiting 318 paella 104 Jerk salmon 246 petrale sole 218, 362 prawns 256, 257, 285, 295, 309, 377 Paella 102–3 Marinated salmon 62 Sole veronique 218–19 Salmon coulibiac 118–19 Marinated sweet & hot tuna steaks (a) 242 picking shellfish 286, 288–9, 291 see also tiger prawns & shrimp Smoked fish kedgeree 105 Mixed fried fish 186 pies puff pastry see also risotto; sushi & sushi rice Monkfish wrapped in prosciutto (a) 212 Empanadas 124 Poached salmon with cilantro & lime Empanaditas 124 Anchovy, olive, & basil tarts 35 rillettes, Salmon 37 Fish & leek pie 116 Fish & leek pie 116 risotto butter 224 Fisherman’s pie 117 Salmon coulibiac 118–19 Poached salmon with dill butter 224 Quick fish pie with peas 116 Salmon in puff pastry 119 Risotto al tonno 103 Quick fish pie with peas 116 Salmon coulibiac 118–19 puffer fish (fugu) 341 Risotto nero 103 Roasted salmon with Swiss chard & Salmon & shrimp fish pie 117 Seafood risotto 105 Salmon in puff pastry 119 Q Shrimp risotto 104 herb butter 196 pike 207, 350–1 river cobbler 309, 346–7 Salmon chowder with whiskey 87 Gefilte fish 67 quality & freshness 256 rock lobster 374 Salmon coulibiac 118–19 Pike with herb crust 206–7 queen conch 366 Chile crab (a) 162 Salmon en papillote 197 Quenelles 305 queen scallops 370 roe 181, 390–1 Salmon fishcakes 56 pilchards see sardines see also specific roes (eg tobiko) Salmon, horseradish, & kale bake 126 pinboning 255, 271 for recipes see scallops Rollmops 297 Salmon jungle curry 154 Pissaladière 120 Quenelles 305 roughy 319 Salmon with mushrooms & bok choy 196 plaice 183, 309, 361 quotas 8–9 round fish Salmon nigiri 48 Flounder with smoked bacon (a) 183 choosing & storing 256, 257 Salmon in puff pastry 119 Herbed fish goujons (a) 68 R cuts 258–9 Salmon salad with mint yogurt dressing Lemon sole with herbs (a) 203 preparation 264–71 Mixed fish stew with croutons 133 rabbit fish 152, 326 serving whole 311 75 Roast hake with remoulade (a) 198 Thai red curry with snapper (a) 152 tools 254–5 Salmon & shrimp fish pie 117 Sole with basil & pinenuts (a) 194–5 see also specific cooking techniques (eg Saltimbocca of salmon 167 Sole Colbert (a) 188 rainbow trout 307, 354 Scallop & tobiko sashimi (a) 52 Sole meunière (a) 184 Broiled sea bream with spice rub (a) 237 poaching); specific fish (eg salmon) Seafood ceviche 60–1 Steamed fish with warm sherry Whole poached & dressed salmon (a) Seared tuna with a black sesame seed 224 S vinaigrette 231 for additional recipes see trout crust (a) 170 Steamed fish with warm vinaigrette 231 saithe (coley) 98, 309, 315 Smoked salmon with mustard & dill poaching techniques 255, 302 rascasse 327 Baked saithe in wine & herbs 202 pollock 55, 309, 316 Brodetto abruzzese 85 Cod & mussel chowder 86 dressing (a) 62 Baked saithe in wine & herbs (a) 202 Red mullet dieppoise (a) 177 Cod in tomato sauce (a) 175 Spiced haddock with coconut, chile, & Büsumer fish soup 96 Deep-fried haddock in beer batter (a) Cod & mussel chowder (a) 86 ray 277, 309, 360 190–1 lime (a) 171 Cod in tomato sauce (a) 175 razor clams 279, 368 Fish & pumpkin chips 186 Steamed fish with warm sherry Cotriade 93 Herbed fish goujons 68 Creamy scallop bisque (a) 92 Garlic & rice wine steamed razor clams Soupe de poissons 98–9 vinaigrette 231 Deep-fried haddock in beer batter (a) 231 Spiced haddock with coconut, chile, & Steamed fish with warm vinaigrette 231 lime (a) 171 Steamed halibut with dill butter sauce & 190–1 red abalone 366 Escabeche 54–5 red grouper 157, 328 salads cucumber (a) 226 Fish & leek pie 116 red gurnard 325 Asian cucumber, with smoked salmon Steamed trout filled with herbs (a) 229 Fish & pumpkin chips 186 74 Tamaki sushi 50 Fish sticks with chunky tartar sauce for recipes see gurnard Black sesame tuna 170 Tarte au poissons 120–1 red king crab 378–9 Calamari, with mint & dill 80 Tempura 191 171 red mullet 177, 323 Chile crab with grapefruit & cilantro 76 Teriyaki fish with noodles 205 Fish with tomatoes, potatoes, & onions Crab, with grapefruit & cilantro 76 Thai crab cakes (a) 58 Brodetto abruzzese 85 Crab & mango 76 Tuna carpaccio (a) 60 147 Caldereta asturiana 130 Cured mackerel sashimi with salad 52–3 Whole poached & dressed salmon 224–5 Fisherman’s pie 117 Fish with tomatoes, potatoes, & onions Herring, with potatoes & beet 78–9 see also smoked salmon Herbed fish goujons 68 Layered marinated herring 74 salmon (canned) Individual fish crumbles 117 147 Lobster, with watercress 80 Smoked haddock, leek, & grainy mustard Poached salmon with cilantro & lime Fritto misto di pesce 188 Mango 72–3 Leaf-wrapped Asian sole (a) 230 Marinated squid 81 tart (a) 122 butter (a) 224 Ligurian fish stew 130–1 Prawn, grapefruit, & avocado 77 Tuna & bean salad (a) 78 Poached salmon with dill butter (a) 224 Red mullet dieppoise 177 Salade Niçoise 73 salmon keta caviar see keta caviar Pollock with spinach & pine nuts 174 Salmon en papillote (a) 197 Salmon, with mint yogurt dressing 75 Salsa 246–7 Quick fish pie with peas 116 Samak maquli 184–5 Seafood & fennel, with anchovy dressing Salsa verde 194, 243 Red mullet dieppoise 177 Shallow-fried red mullet 168–9 81 salt cod 39, 389 Roast cod with garlic (a) 210 Spinach-wrapped sole (a) 230 Smoked trout & pancetta 75 Baked salt cod 212–13 Roast hake with remoulade (a) 198 Vietnamese crispy fish (a) 168 Tomato 237 Brandade de morue 38–9 Seafood risotto 105 red sea bream 321 Tuna & bean 78 Salt cod braised with vegetables 140 Soupe de poissons 98 red snapper 73, 332 Vietnamese, of shrimp with papaya 77 Salt cod & red pepper dip 36 Spiced haddock with coconut, chile, & Coconut & turmeric curry of red snapper Yam pla fu 72–3 salt crusts 207 salt curing, Gravadlax 296 lime (a) 171 150 salmon 119, 309, 356–7 salt ling, Baked salt cod (a) 212 Thai green fish curry with mixed Grilled snapper in banana leaves 234–5 Baked salmon with salsa verde & salt pollock 140, 389 Lingurian fish stew 130 cucumber 194 Baked salt cod (a) 212 vegetables 152 Mango & snapper broth 97 Balinese spicy mackerel (a) 172 Brandade de morue (a) 39 Thai green fish curry with snow peas Spicy, saucy monkfish (a) 133 Black sesame tuna salad (a) 170 Salt cod braised with vegetables (a) 140 Steamed fish with warm sherry Broiled halibut with beurre blanc (a) 24 Salt cod & red pepper dip (a) 36 152 Chirashi sushi 50–1 salted fish 388–9 see also salt pollock; smoked pollock vinaigrette 231 Crisp salmon with cilantro pesto 167 see also specific fish (eg salt cod) pomfret 158, 333 Steamed fish with warm vinaigrette Fish head curry 158 salted gray mullet roe (bottarga di Goan curry 158–9 muggine) 390 Samak maquli 184 231 Taramasalata (a) 40 Sea bass with black bean sauce (a) 226 red spot emperor bream 168, 322 salted herring roe 390 Saltimbocca of salmon 167 Vietnamese crispy fish 168 red tilapia 347 redfish 327 for recipes see rascasse refrigerating & freezing 257 Remoulade 198 396 Index

Samak maquli 184–5 Marinated skewered scallops 45 Sea bass with tomato sauce (a) 200–1 Fisherman’s pie 117 sand sole 365 Pan-fried scallops with chile, ginger, & Steamed carp in beer sauce (a) 228 Fritto misto di pesce 188 sand whiting 317 Tempura 191 Green curry of shrimp with eggplant sardines 250, 342–3 an anchovy dressing 179 Trout with orange-mustard glaze (a) 236 Pan-fried shrimp in garlic butter (a) 183 sea bream see bream & basil 161 Broiled herring with mustard butter (a) Pan-fried shrimp, olives, & tomatoes (a) sea cucumber 383 Green shrimp curry with fresh dill 162 248 sea scallops 370 Griddled shrimp with hot pepper sauce 178 for recipes see scallops Broiled sardines on toast 68 Poached turbot with Champagne & sea trout 354–5 242 Butterflied sardines stuffed with Whole poached & dressed salmon (a) Haddock, green bean, and artichoke oysters (a) 220 tomatoes & capers 203 Prawn balti (a) 163 224 paella (a) 104 Fritto misto di pesce 188 Prawn, grapefruit, & avocado salad (a) 77 for additional recipes see salmon; trout Individual fish crumbles 117 Grilled Cornish sardines with salsa verde Roasted squid & potato with spiced sea urchin 281, 382 Kenyan fish curry 151 Seafood Choices Alliance 9 Linguine with scallops (a) 112 243 cilantro pesto (a) 209 seafood, mixed Lobster bisque (a) 90–1 Grilled sardines in harissa 250–1 Salt & pepper prawns (a) 69 Bouillabaisse 137 Lobster salad with watercress (a) 80 Mackerel with garlic & tomatoes (a) 209 Scallop & pesto crostini 31 Caldereta asturiana 130 Mixed fish stew with croutons 133 Marinated anchovies (a) 32 Scallop & shiitake yakitori skewers 28 Fideua 106–7 Monkfish Americaine (a) 127 Mediterranean-style broiled sardines 243 Scallop & tobiko sashimi 52 Fritto misto di pesce 188 Monkfish in spicy tomato sauce (a) 138 Samak maquli 184 Scallops with bacon 64–5 Laksa lemak 156–7 Pad Thai (a) 144 Shallow-fried masala sardines 166 Scallops skewered with Parma ham 45 Ligurian fish stew 130–1 Pan-fried shrimp in garlic butter 183 sardines (canned) Scallops with sweet chili sauce 66 Mixed fish stew with croutons 133 Pan-fried shrimp, olives, & tomatoes 178 Empanadas (a) 124 Seafood risotto 105 Paella 102–3 Pasta with crab & lemon (a) 111 Empanaditas (a) 124 Seafood & tomato cioppino 130 Pasta with seafood & tomatoes 113 Pasta with seafood & tomatoes 113 sashimi 52–3, 292–5 Sesame grilled prawns (a) 240 Quenelles 305 Salmon & shrimp fish pie 117 sauces Shrimp diabolo (a) 146 Seafood & fennel salad with anchovy Scallop and pesto crostini (a) 31 Almond beurre noisette 172 Shrimp gumbo (a) 137 Scallops skewered with Parma ham (a) 45 Americaine 127 Shrimp risotto (a) 104 dressing 81 Scallops with sweet chili sauce (a) 66 Beer sauce 228 Skewered shrimp with hot pepper sauce Seafood & tomato cioppino 130 Seafood & fennel salad with anchovy Beurre blanc 245 Soupe de poissons 98–9 Black bean sauce 226–7 (a) 242 Spaghetti frutti di mare 108–9 dressing 81 Chunky tartar 171 Soba noodles with shrimp & avocado (a) Tempura 191 Seafood curry 155 Cilantro pesto 167, 209 Tom yum talay 94 Seafood risotto 105 Dill butter 226 145 seasonality 10, 181 Shrimp cocktail, Mexican-style 55 Dipping 28, 191 Spicy shrimp with garlic (a) 178 serving techniques 311 Shrimp diabolo 146 Gooseberry 237 Steamed carp in beer sauce (a) 228 sevruga caviar 390 Shrimp gumbo 137 Hot pepper 242 Steamed scallop curry 160 shad 343 Shrimp nigiri 48 Mustard 62, 166 Sweet & sour shrimp (a) 144 shark 360 Shrimp risotto 104 Remoulade 198 Tempura 191 shellfish 366–83 Shrimp spring rolls 56 Romesco 208 Thai green fish curry with mixed choosing & storing 256, 257 Shrimp & zucchini balls with caper Salsa 246–7 mixed see seafood, mixed Salsa verde 194, 243 vegetables 152 pot-caught 301 cream 69 Satay 240 Thai green fish curry with snow peas preparation 278–91 Simple Italian roast lobster (a) 214 Soy dipping 28 tools 255 Skewered shrimp with hot pepper sauce Sweet chili 66 152 see also specific cooking techniques Tartare 171 Tom yum goong (a) 94–5 242 Thermidor 250 Vietnamese salad of prawns with (eg steaming); specific shellfish (eg Soba noodles with shrimp and avocado Tomato 22, 138, 175 scallops) Velouté 218 papaya (a) 77 shortcrust pastry 145 see also pasta school whiting 317 Empanadas 124 Spaghetti frutti di mare 108 scabbard fish (cutlass fish) 340 scissors 254 Empanaditas 124 Spaghetti mare e monti 112 scad 330–1 scorpion fish 327 Smoked haddock, leek, & grainy mustard Spicy shrimp with garlic 178 scales sea bass 226, 309, 329 tart 122 Spicy stir-fried squid (a) 142 choosing fish 256 Smoked mackerel & scallion tart Sweet and sour shrimp 144 scaling & trimming 254, 264, 273 Baked bream (a) 204 122 Tamarind fish curry 151 scallops 65, 256, 257, 279, 280, 306, 309, Baked salmon with salsa verde & Tarte au poissons 120–1 Tarte au poissons 120–1 370, 389 shrimp 377, 389 Tempura 191 Breaded fried prawns (a) 187 cucumber (a) 194 Bouillabaisse 137 Thai fishcakes 58 Broiled scallops with prosciutto & lime Brodetto abruzzese 85 Broiled scallops with prosciutto & lime Thai green fish curry with mixed Broiled sea bream with spice rub (a) (a) 45 45 Caldereta asturiana 130 vegetables 152 Chile shrimp with cilantro & lime (a) 237 Chile crab with grapefruit & cilantro Thai green fish curry with snow peas 152 Chinese-style steamed bass 228 (a) 76 Vietnamese caramel monkfish (a) 142 67 Coconut & turmeric curry of red snapper Chile shrimp with cilantro & lime (a) 67 Vietnamese salad of shrimp with Coquilles St. Jacques 124–5 Chirashi sushi 50 Crab stir-fried with curry powder (a) 146 (a) 150 Classic shrimp cocktail 55 papaya 77 Creamy scallop bisque 92 Crisp salmon with cilantro pesto (a) Crab and mango curry (a) 163 Whole poached & dressed salmon 224–5 Dublin Bay prawns with lemon & garlic Crab salad with grapefruit & cilantro Siberian sturgeon 348–9 167 (a) 76 signal crawfish 373 mayo (a) 28 Escabeche 54–5 Crab stir-fried with curry powder (a) 146 silver pomfret 333 Fideua 106–7 Fish & pumpkin chips 186 Crawfish sauté with spicy tomatoes silver scabbard 340 Garlic & rice wine steamed razor clams Fish with tomatoes, potatoes, & onions (a) 70 skate 277, 302, 309, 360 Creamy scallop bisque 92 Crisp salmon with cilantro pesto (a) (a) 231 147 Dublin Bay prawns with lemon and Green curry of shrimp with eggplant Garlic & rice wine steamed razor clams garlic mayo (a) 28 167 Egg fu yung 187 Monkfish in spicy tomato sauce (a) 138 & basil (a) 161 (a) 231 Fideua 106–7 Skate with beurre noire & capers 222–3 Green shrimp curry with fresh dill (a) 162 Green shrimp curry with fresh dill (a) 162 Swordfish baked with herbs (a) 202 Griddled scallop & avocado 28 Grilled sea bass with roast artichokes & skewers 306 Griddled shrimp with hot pepper sauce Dublin Bay prawns with lemon & garlic fennel 245 (a) 242 Grilled snapper in banana leaves (a) 234 mayo 28 Grilled prawn satay (a) 240 Hungarian roast carp (a) 214 Griddled scallop & avocado 28 Linguine with scallops 112 Italian seafood stew 138 Grilled monkfish with melon 28 Mango & snapper broth (a) 97 Lobster & papaya 28 Marinated salmon (a) 62 Prawn balti (a) 163 Salmon en papillote (a) 197 Sea bass with black bean sauce 226–7 Sea bass in a salt crust 207 Sea bream en papillote (a) 198 Index 397

Marinated skewered scallops 45 smoked salmon 385, 386–7 Thai red curry with snapper 152–3 Seafood & fennel salad with anchovy Scallop & shiitake yakitori skewers 28 Asian cucumber salad with smoked Trout with orange-mustard glaze (a) 236 dressing 81 Scallops skewered with Parma ham 45 salmon 74 Vietnamese crispy fish (a) 168 Skewered shrimp with hot pepper sauce Creamy smoked trout soup (a) 87 Yam pla fu 72–3 Seafood risotto (a) 105 Rich smoked salmon croustades 34 see also red snapper Shrimp diabolo (a) 146 242 Salmon rillettes 37 sockeye salmon 357 Skewered shrimp with hot pepper sauce Skewered swordfish with caperberries Salmon & tarragon cream croustades 34 soft roe 390–1 Saltimbocca of salmon 167 soft-shelled crabs 286 (a) 242 205 Smoked fish & anchovy gratin 123 sole 276, 309, 361–2, 364–5 Spaghetti frutti di mare 108–9 Tuna & eggplant yakitori skewers with Smoked mackerel & scallion tart (a) see also specific types (eg Dover sole) Spicy stir-fried squid 142–3 122 soups Squid curry 160 soy dipping sauce 28–9 Smoked salmon with mustard & dill Bouillabaisse 137 Squid nigiri 48 skin dressing 62 Brodetto abruzzese 85 Squid in olive oil & paprika 66 Smoked salmon nori maki 48 Büsumer fish 96 Stuffed squid, Naples-style 200 choosing fish 256 Smoked salmon & pancetta crostini 30 Cotriade 93 Sweet & sour shrimp (a) 144 tenderizing for sushi 294 Smoked trout, fennel, & mascarpone Creamy scallop bisque 92 Tamarind fish curry 151 skinning crostini (a) 31 Creamy smoked trout 87 Tempura 191 fillets 271 Smoked trout mousse (a) 37 Cullen skink 97 Thai green fish curry with mixed skate wings 277 Smoked trout & pancetta salad (a) 75 Fish, with fennel 92 sole 276 Smoked trout with pickled cucumber & Keralan prawn 93 vegetables 152 skipjack tuna 336–7 minted yogurt (a) 63 Lobster bisque 90–1 Thai green fish curry with snow peas 152 for recipes see tuna Mango & snapper broth 97 Tom yum talay 94 slipper lobster 286, 376 smoked sprats 384 Mouclade 90 Vietnamese salad of prawns with smell, choosing fish 256 smoked swordfish 387 Mussels in fennel broth 132 smoked cod smoked trout 307, 385 Mussels in ginger & chile broth 132 papaya (a) 77 Cullen skink (a) 97 Potage poissonière 94 squid ink, Risotto nero 103 Haddock mornay (a) 126 Asian cucumber salad with smoked Potato & clam 96 steaks & steaking Smoked haddock & herb fishcakes (a) 57 salmon (a) 74 Soupe de poissons 98–9 Smoked haddock, leek, & grainy mustard Tom yum goong 94–5 flat fish 260–1, 275 Creamy smoked trout soup 87 Tom yum talay 94 round fish 258–9, 270 tart (a) 122 Cullen skink (a) 97 Waterzooi 98 sushi & sashimi 293 smoked cod’s roe 40, 391 Light smoked mackerel pâté (a) 36 see also chowders tools 254 Rich smoked salmon croustades (a) 34 spaghetti see pasta see also specific cooking techniques Taramasalata 40 Salmon rillettes (a) 37 spiny lobster see rock lobster smoked eel 384 Salmon & tarragon cream croustades (a) sprats 78, 342 (eg frying) smoked fish 307, 384–7 Broiled herring with mustard butter (a) steaming techniques 304 34 steels 254 Smoked fish & anchovy gratin 123 Smoked haddock with spinach & 248 stir-fries Smoked fish kedgeree 105 Broiled sardines on toast (a) 68 Tarte au poissons 120–1 pancetta (a) 123 Fritto misto di pesce 188 Crab stir-fried with curry powder 146 see also specific fish (eg smoked Smoked mackerel pâté (a) 36 Grilled Cornish sardines with salsa verde Pad Thai 144 Smoked salmon with mustard & dill Shrimp diabolo 146 mackerel) (a) 243 Soba noodles with shrimp & avocado smoked haddock 384, 386–7 dressing (a) 62 Grilled sardines in harissa (a) 250 Smoked salmon & pancetta crostini (a) Herring salad with potatoes & beet 145 Cullen skink 97 Spicy stir-fried squid 142–3 Deep-fried haddock in beer batter (a) 30 (a) 78 Stir-fried yellow curried crabs 147 Smoked trout with beet, apple, & dill Mediterranean-style broiled sardines (a) Sweet & sour shrimp 144 190–1 Sweet & sour stir-fried fish with ginger Omelet Arnold Bennett 175 relish 63 243 Salmon, horseradish, & kale bake (a) 126 Smoked trout, fennel, & mascarpone Pan-fried mackerel in rolled oats (a) 166 145 Shrimp & zucchini balls with caper smoked sprats 384 stock-making 310 crostini 31 spring rolls, Shrimp 56 stockfish see salt cod cream (a) 69 Smoked trout mousse 37 squid 108, 256, 257, 282, 309, 380 storage 257 Smoked fish kedgeree 105 Smoked trout & pancetta salad 75 Breaded fried prawns (a) 187 sturgeon 348–9 Smoked haddock & herb fishcakes 57 Smoked trout with pickled cucumber & Calamari salad with mint & dill 80 Smoked haddock, leek, and grainy Caldereta asturiana 130 caviar 390 minted yogurt 63 Chirashi sushi 50 Salmon coulibiac (a) 118–19 mustard tart 122 Spicy smoked mackerel pâté (a) 36 Crawfish sauté with spicy tomatoes (a) surf clam 368–9 Smoked haddock with spinach & smoothhound 360 surgeon fish 326–7 snake mackerel (escolar) 340 70 surimi sticks pancetta 123 snapper 73, 309, 332 Fried calamari 65 Nori maki 48 smoked halibut 387 Baked bream (a) 204 Fritto misto di pesce 188 Tamaki sushi 50 smoked herring 384–5, 386 Broiled sea bream with spice rub (a) Griddled shrimp with hot pepper sauce sushi & sushi rice 292–5 smoked mackerel 307, 385 Chirashi sushi 50–1 237 (a) 242 Cured mackerel nigiri 48 Anchovy & olive bruschetta (a) 30 Chinese-style steamed bass (a) 228 Kenyan fish curry 151 Kingfish nigiri 48 Creamy smoked trout soup (a) 87 Escabeche 54–5 Laksa lemak 156–7 Nori maki 48–9 Herring salad with potatoes & beet Fish head curry 158 Marinated squid salad 81 Salmon nigiri 48 Goan curry 158–9 Mixed fried fish 186 sashimi 52–3 (a) 78 Grilled prawn satay (a) 240 Pad Thai (a) 144 Shrimp nigiri 48 Light smoked mackerel pâté 36 Jerk salmon (a) 246 Paella 102–3 Smoked salmon nori maki 48 Omelet Arnold Bennett (a) 175 Mixed fried fish 186 Pan-fried shrimp, olives, & tomatoes (a) Squid nigiri 48 Smoked fish & anchovy gratin 123 Roast cod with garlic (a) 210 Tamaki sushi 50 Smoked fish kedgeree (a) 105 Salmon en papillote (a) 197 178 Tobiko & cucumber nori maki 48 Smoked mackerel pâté 36 Salmon with mushrooms & bok choy (a) Pan-fried scallops with chile, ginger, & Tuna nori maki 48 Smoked mackerel & scallion tart 122 sustainability 8–11 Smoked trout with beet, apple, & dill 196 an anchovy dressing (a) 179 see also choosing fish Sea bass with black bean sauce (a) 226 Pasta with seafood & tomatoes 113 Sweet & sour shrimp 144 relish (a) 63 Sea bream en papillote (a) 198 Prawn, grapefruit, & avocado salad (a) 77 Sweet & sour snapper with pineapple Smoked trout, fennel, & mascarpone Sweet & sour snapper with pineapple Roasted squid & potato with spiced 176–7 Sweet & sour stir-fried fish with crostini (a) 31 176–7 cilantro pesto 209 ginger 145 Smoked trout mousse (a) 37 Tamaki sushi 50 Salt & pepper prawns (a) 69 swordfish 234, 309, 340–1 Smoked trout & pancetta salad (a) 75 Tempura 191 Black sesame tuna salad (a) 170 Smoked trout with pickled cucumber & Thai green fish curry with mixed minted yogurt (a) 63 vegetables 152 Spicy smoked mackerel pâté 36 Thai green fish curry with snow peas 152 smoked mussels 307, 384 smoked oysters 384 smoked pollock, Haddock mornay (a) 126 398 Index