Wanderlust_UK_-_December_2019

Naresh Jariwala*BIGGEST ISSUE EVER! Travel Well WIN! Three huge travel competitions, with prizes WORTH £27,500 The 2020 T avel HOT LIST Inside: Canada + Japan + Portugal + Kenya + Croatia + Albania + Zimbabwe + Chernobyl + Namibia + Kyrgyzstan + Lebanon + Patagonia + Nicaragua + And much more... TREKKING WITH TIGERS POLAR BEAR ISLAND GEORGIA ON OUR MIND Earn your stripes in India’s lost forest Wildlife wonders at the world’s end Raising a glass to Europe’s gem

Naresh Jariwala*

Explore Asia for under £699. Naresh Jariwala* From now until 30 November, you can save 15% on over 170 different ways of experiencing Asia on a G Adventures small group tour. Gaze upon ancient temples, dive into organized urban chaos, or spend a night on a floating ra house, your next great travel story is waiting to be written. Book by 30 November, 2019 at gadventures.co.uk. Some of the Amazing Tours On Offer: Golden Triangle Maldives Island Hopping Bangkok to Chiang Mai Express 8 Days | Delhi to Delhi 8 Days | Malé to Malé 7 Days | Bangkok to Chiang Mai Was £549. Now £467. Was £649. Now £552. Was £459. Now £390. • Wander around modern and • Hop between the islands of • Explore magnificent temples ancient Delhi the Maldives and palaces • Revel in the magnificence of the • Discover diverse marine • Sleep in a floating ra house • See the multi-tiered Erawan Falls Taj Mahal life underwater • Visit rural villages and historic forts • Catch your dinner fishing off the coast Classic Bali 8 Days | Sanur to Candidasa Classic Vietnam Hanoi to Sri Lanka Express Was £579. Now £492. Ho Chi Minh City 8 Days | Negombo to Unawatuna • Uncover the unique culture 10 Days | Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City Was £819. Now £696. Was £799. Now £679. • Explore stunning beaches of Ubud • Experience bustling Hanoi • Search for wildlife on a safari • Explore Hindu temples • Sail on a junk boat through Halong Bay • Indulge in the world-class flavours of • Marvel at the power of • Squeeze through the Cu Chi tunnels Sri Lanka active volcanoes 0207 313 6947 gadventures.co.uk/wanderlust Terms and Conditions Eligible passengers shall receive 15% off per person on guaranteed departures of select small-group Asia tours and departures as indicated on our website. Tour must be booked by 30 November 2019 at 23 59 GMT, for travel by 30 September 2020. Valid for new bookings only and must quote G20GAR015ASI01 at time of booking. Cannot be combined with any other offers, promotions or discounts and is subject to availability. Does not apply to Private Groups, Independent trips, pre- or post-tour accommodation, insurance, airfare not specified in the itinerary, upgrades, Gear Shop, extras, “My Own Room” or “My Own Tent,” transfers, theme packs, or other in-country or on-board services. G Adventures reserves the right to withdraw this offer from sale at any time without prior notice. All G Adventures’ tours are subject to G Adventures’ full booking conditions, found here: gadventures.co.uk/terms

A spike in interest THIS ISSUE UPFRONT Patagonia – and the jagged peaks of Mount Fitz Roy – gears Behind the scenes up for an anniversary (p64) this month... iEWndte-hilnle,-sNchhaeigesafanLidoynsrehligeeiswodnao’sswhfonarroedsnattsth.weojorkb… Cover image: Ice Mt Fuji, Japan/Michele Falzone/AWL images This page: Seamus Ryan; AWL images; Victoria MiddletonWelcome…SPECIAL Made any travel plans for 2020 yet? We’ve INTEREST Naresh Jariwala*been talking to you, other experts, and MAGAZINE Toahut etrhltaeetaRemostygWaelaGtnwedoieldgrlrauabspothRuicetaasladSfeaorrcEisiveaettyn.t researching various trends to predict where OF THE YEAR TFAeistnzsegisretifraean.ltd(Tcthoaemketmasroemnrcatichaelwetodanritm.o) raRcoinsie on earth you may be inspired to visit next year. WINNER 2019 I hope our annual Travel Hot List (p64) will give you plenty of ideas to really start dreaming. We also feature three of the destinations from last year’s list: I got to visit beautiful Georgia, taking a bunch of lovely readers with me (p96); Simon Broughton went to Colombia to explore incredible San Agustín (p136); while Mark Stratton saw if he could break his tiger curse in India (p46). And knowing that the Arctic features on so many of your Hot Lists we hear from Juliet Rix on remarkable Wrangel Island (p116). If you want to visit Georgia yourself, or join me in discovering Uzbekistan, then do take a look at our exclusive Wanderlust Journeys on page 110. Add them to your Christmas list! And talking of that time of year, we have some great gift ideas on page 172, not forgetting the perfect solution for any travel-mad friend or colleague – a Wanderlust subscription (p94). Seasons greetings, Lyn Hughes CtfhrhoeamWntSahinamdMoenrelauCssatclWdoelolreracldntsdGtuLoyipdnpeHrAiuzwgeaharetdss. Editor-In-Chief/Co-founder wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020 3 The Original Travel Magazine, Est. 1993

HOT OFFERS SAVE UP TO HOT GET HOT OFFER OFFER £475pp 25% o ALL CEWE PERSONALISED PHOTO PRODUCTS ON A TRIP TO ROYAL RAJASTHAN Experience the very best of Rajasthan as you travel in style from Delhi, via Agra’s With over 50 years of experience, CEWE are renowned for their dedication to Taj Mahal, to the royal cities of Jaipur, Jodhpur and Udaipur, staying throughout outstanding print quality. To celebrate the joy of capturing life through a lens and in luxurious Taj hotels. Prices start from £3,430 per person, including flights, UK the adventures we embark on, enjoy 25% o all CEWE personalised photo airport lounge access, private transfers, 9 nights B&B accommodation & private products. From the award-winning CEWE PHOTOBOOK to Wall Art and photo touring throughout. gifts, preserve your favourite travel memories and make the most of the Book with Wexas Travel by 20 December 2019 to save up to £475pp. photographs that you love. For more information, visit wexas.com/wanderlust To redeem, use code WANDERLUST cewe-photoworld.com/wanderlust FREE PACKAGE WORTH HOT SAVE UP TO HOT OFFER OFFER £159pp £300pp ON ALL AFRICA HOLIDAYS ON COX & KINGS’ GROUP TOURS Naresh Jariwala* To celebrate the launch of Llama Travel Africa, for bookings made in 2019, a Save up to £300 per person when you book a Cox & Kings’ small group tour package of optional excursions is included for free for African destinations. Plus, to some of the world’s most captivating destinations. This o er is subject to there’s a £600 discount per couple if you book before the end of the month. Visit availability and is on selected tours only. Tours must be booked by some of South Africa’s most iconic destinations on this 11-day holiday, from Cape 31 December 2019. Town to the Kruger National Park. Choose from a variety of beautiful lodges and For more information, call 020 3504 4130 and quote WLOFFER. See go on safari in search of the Big Five. 11 Days from £2,249pp, including flights. www.coxandkings.co.uk for full T&Cs. Discounts based on Ethiopian Odyssey For more information, visit www.llamatravelafrica.com, call 0207 2633000 or & China: The Grand Tour (Superior). email [email protected] GET HOT GET A HOT OFFER OFFER 10% o FREE CANARY ISLANDS UNHOTEL GIFT BOX VALUED AT £120 The caminoways.com team is delighted to present canariaways.com: Go glamping in one of the richest ecosystems in the world – the forests of the spectacular walking holidays in the Canary Islands. Our hiking tours in Tenerife, Jungle Book in Madhya Pradesh, India! A curated trip to our campsite Call of the La Gomera and Gran Canaria will take your breath away. 24-hour customer care, Wild at Kanha National Park. 14-acres of lush foliage, modern tents, bonfires, transfers and luggage transfers included. and bird-calls! Enjoy a safari to spot the tigers, or interact with the locals! And get Book now using code WANDERLUST20 for 10% o . Terms & conditions apply. a FREE Unhotel Gift Box (valued at £120) of handmade Indian products, and a For more details, visit canariaways.com/special-discount-wanderlust coupon for an Ayurvedic spa experience! For more info visit, https://www.unhotel.in/tours/call-wild-kanha/ SAVE £750pp HOT GET OHFFOETR OFFER £75 o DANUBE WALTZ F8RDOAYMS |£52CO,1U1N9TpRIpESin| 6clGuUdIDinEDgTROEUTRUS RN FLIGHTS YOUR FIRST ORDER WITH NAKED WINES PRICES FROM £1,645PP, INCLUDING RETURN FLIGHTS | MARCH TO NOVEMBER 2020 Since 2008, Naked Wines have been helping people enjoy delicious wines from exceptional vintners. And now, Wanderlust readers can save £75 o the cost of This fantastic 8-day Viking River cruise takes in the very best of enchanting any order of £114.99 or more. The £75 voucher is for new customers only, with destinations such as Budapest, Vienna, the Wachau Valley, Bratislava and Passau no obligation to make another purchase – or you can opt to become a ‘Naked - all while cruising leisurely through spectacular scenery. Saving o er ends Angel’ and continue to enjoy discounts (25% to 50%) on great global wines. 31 December 2019. For more details on this great Naked Wines deal, visit www.wanderlust.co.uk/ For a FANTASTIC ADDITIONAL SAVING call 01670 829922; quote Wanderlust. hot-o ers/o er-75-to-spend-on-wine-naked-wine/ Visit www.northumbriatravel.com or email [email protected] 4 wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020

THIS ISSUE UPFRONT Contributors Wanderlust is brought to life by people from all over the planet. Here are just some of the individuals who helped to create this issue – and their hot trips for 2020… Juliet Rix Naresh Jariwala* Leon McCarron Kris Tompkins Wrangel Island Dispatches Interview Journalist Juliet knows Adventurer Leon McCarron For conservationist Kris, how lucky she is to have is a walker – the serious travel needs to serve made several trips to kind, too. Having once a purpose – or be a way the polar regions. But on spent seven months into understanding an p116, she takes us with trekking around 4,800km issue. Our chat with her her – on an expedition to from north to south China, (p34) sheds a little light the remote Wrangel he’s well placed to rave on her work restoring island, in hard-to-access about the country’s hidden national parks and Russian territory… valleys and trails (p42). rewilding species in What’s hot in 2020? What’s hot in 2020? South America. “I’m planning to get some “I’ll be returning to the What’s hot in 2020? sun! Perhaps I’ll explore Kurdistan region, in “I plan to travel the the ‘stans, but I want to northern Iraq, which I ind Northeast Passage return to Malta, too, to see beautiful and welcoming.” from Norway to Alaska, its unique temple culture FCO is currently advising a ive-week trip, on and the buildings that are against all but essential an icebreaker. Call it older than Stonehenge.” travel to the region. climate crisis research!” Scott Bennett Simon Broughton Rosie Fitzgerald Georgia San Agustín Short Break Although photographer Songlines editor-in-chief Wanderlust assistant Scott has travelled across and travel writer Simon commercial editor Rosie the world, he was looking usually goes where the it a week’s worth of for a destination di erent music leads him; in this adventure into her ‘short’ than anywhere he had case, Colombia, where he break to Tenerife. On been before – Georgia satis ies his passion for p179, she whizzes certainly delivered then, archaeology with some of through the island’s as we can see in his top the best music in Latin rugged peaks, showing shots on p96. America (p136). us its unseen side. What’s hot in 2020? What’s hot in 2020? What’s hot in 2020? “First up is a photo tour “My plan is to explore the “Albania’s southern coast to Iceland in February. Ayyanar temples in Tamil is a patchwork of Usually I travel to escape Nadu, South India. They charming hamlets, the Canadian winter, so have huge painted picturesque bays and this will be something terracotta horses made as topaz waters. It has all the di erent. The landscapes o erings to the god who beauty of nearby Greece, are a dream.” protects the village.” without the crowds.” wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020 5

Naresh Jariwala*

THE WANDERLUST TEAM UPFRONT The Wanderlust Website Get In Touch Philosophy Discover more London o ice Wanderlust aims to inform and inspire all great content at Capital House, 25 Chapel St, Marylebone, your travel adventures. We strive to www.wanderlust.co.uk bring you the most trusted and reliable London NW1 5DH information in the world. That’s why we Twitter Subscriptions 01371 853641, are always upfront about whether our writers have travelled independently Catch up on the [email protected] or with a tour company. When a tour latest travel gossip Advertising 020 3771 7203, operator has been used, we always try @wanderlustmag to use those who’ve scored a minimum [email protected] satisfaction rating of 85% from readers Instagram General enquiries 01753 620426, in our annual awards and we never guarantee positive coverage. See behind the scenes [email protected] @wanderlustmag Responsible, conscious and sustainable In memory of Co-founder & Publisher Paul Morrison Facebook travel is at the heart of everything we do. EDITORIAL CONTENT Naresh Jariwala* Join the chat at Editor-in-Chief & Co-founder Lyn Hughes CUSTOMER PUBLISHING & CREATIVE SOLUTIONS www.facebook.com/ Looking for high-impact travel content? Wanderlust Studio Technology Director Simon Chubb produces customer magazines, supplements and digital wanderlusttravel Managing Editor Tom Hawker content for travel companies and organisations. magazine Assistant Editor Zara Gaspar For details, see www.wanderlusttravelmedia.com. Newsletter Commercial Editor Adam Potter © Wanderlust Publications Ltd, 2019, ISSN 1351 4733 Digital Editor Elizabeth Atkin Sign up to our Published by Wanderlust Publications Ltd, Capital House, 25 Chapel St, newsletter for o ers, Editorial Assistant Kirtey Verma inspiration and all the Associate Web Editor Peter Moore Marylebone, London NW1 5DH. All rights are reserved. Reproduction in any latest travel news at Assistant Commercial Editor Rosie Fitzgerald www.wanderlust.co.uk Digital Executive Nora Wallaya (goodbye; good luck!) manner, in whole or in part, is strictly forbidden without the prior written Contributing Editors Phoebe Smith, Subscribe Mark Carwardine, Paul Goldstein & William Gray consent of the publishers. No responsibility for incorrect information can Take advantage of our DESIGN be accepted. Views expressed in articles are those of the authors, and not latest online o er Art Director Graham Berridge on page 94. necessarily the publishers. Wanderlust is a registered trademark. Missed last Art Editor Mike Wright month’s issue? US distribution PRODUCTION shop.wanderlust.co.uk Production Director Justin Masters Wanderlust, ISSN 1351 4733, is published monthly except Dec/Jan and Production Manager Paul Lincoln Production Controller Joe Fordham Jul/Aug combined issues and is distributed in the USA by Pitney Bowes ADVERTISING International Mailing Services Inc as mailing agent. Periodicals postage Commercial Manager Adam Lloyds paid at Kearny, NJ and additional mailing o ices. ([email protected]) Senior Account Manager Simon Bryson Contributions & work experience Senior Sales Executive Lucy Bairstow For details, please go to www.wanderlust.co.uk/about-us Senior Sales Executive Dominique Toms South East Europe Representative Genc Rodiqi Licensing & syndication enquiries ([email protected]) Bruce Sawford, Bruce Sawford Licensing ([email protected]) PUBLISHING Printing Managing Director Tilly McAuli e Commercial Director Ian McAuli e Walstead Roche, Victoria Business Park Roche, St Austell, Cornwall PL26 8LX Director Wanderlust Studio John Innes Senior Brand Marketing Executive Fanny Moros Newstrade distribution NOW 100% Marketforce (UK) Ltd: 0203 787 9001 ACCOUNTS & ADMIN Circulation marketing Compostable Finance Director Nicola Solomon Intermedia Brand Marketing Ltd: 01293 312001 Assistant Financial Controller Lisa Healy O ice binoculars Wanderlust is now mailed in a fully Accounts Assistant Kym Williams Swarovski EL 8x32s compostable potato-starch wrap O ice Manager Janine Plunkett (maternity) courtesy of G Adventures. This ASSISTED THIS ISSUE will save 550kg of plastic waste Lorna Cowan, Nick Funnell, Eliot McFarlane, Hazel Plush, a year – the equivalent of about Pooch-at-large Zöe four loggerhead turtles. wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020 7 Please recycle this magazine O icialpartner of the FCO’s Know Before You Go Campaign Shutterstock WE ONLY WENT AND WON! Wanderlust has received the bronze award for Special Interest Magazine Brand of the Year 2019 Special o er

MANCHESTER EVENTCITY 16-19 JAN 2020 | OLYMPIA LONDON 30 JAN-2 FEB 2020 THE ESSENTIAL EVENT FOR Naresh Jariwala*TRA VEL INSPIRATION Unlimited travel ideas Book now and experiences ENJOY TWO COMPLIMENTARY Experts on hand to TICKETS WORTH £30* tailor-make your next trip Claim tickets at Exclusive show-only offers, discounts and upgrades DestinationsShow.com - quote DES1

See full schedule and exhibitor list at destinationsshow.com CSLAPIPNETEAI-VKUAEPTRING TRAVEL NEW LO20FN2OD0RO! N SMARTER STAGE Live at the London Show, hear inspiring stories from ...hacks, tips and inspiration the very best travel authors at Stanfords Travel Writers Festival, plus purchase signed and personalised copies. Gain the inside track on maximising your travel experiences in ways you may never have thought possible. From points, miles and flight hacks with The Points Guy to going solo, safety, travelling more sustainably and inspirational stories from leading travel influencers, your travel dreams will become reality. Award-winning comedian Naresh Jariwala*Cookery legend and writer Dom Joly Ainsley Harriott Best-selling Wild Swans author Journalist, broadcaster, former Jung Chang member of parliament and cabinet minister Michael Portillo The shortlisted images from this prestigious photography competition will be on display at both shows in a stunning gallery. The winners will be announced at the London show on Friday 31 January. LOVE PHOTOGRAPHY? Learn more from the professionals in the Travel Photography Masterclasses. BOOK Two Complimentary Tickets For Every NOW Wanderlust Reader* & SAVE DestinationsShow.com – quote DES1 *Booking fee of £1.50 per ticket applies. Maximum two tickets per order bookable in advance only. Advance box office closes: Manchester – 15 January 2020 and London – 29 January 2020. Stanfords Travel Writers Festival takes place in London only. A selection of travel authors will be appearing at Manchester via Stanfords. Travel Photo of the Year photo courtesy of Thomas Ure, finalist in the Wanderlust Travel Photo of the Year competition.

Contents Fpeoactkuertegsu&ides 64COVER STORY Hot list 2020 46 India The list is in! From classic African As tigers stalk the shadowy forests safaris to Pakistan’s new promise, of Dudhwa NP, we follow the wildlife whistleblowers to stay hot on their trail here’s our round-up of the top destinations to visit next year – and 96 Georgia why they’re hot to touch Why ancient cave cities, rolling PAGE green hills and endless wine make TRAVEL for an intoxicating blend in Georgia PHOTO OF Naresh Jariwala* PAGE THE YEAR 116 Wrangel Island 2019 Uncover an invisible land and one of the best places to see polar bears on 154 a journey to the top of the world LAST CHANCE! 136 San Agustín, Colombia Submit your best travel Experience a bygone civilisation, shots to our annual lost tombs and a watery world Travel Photo of the Year steeped in secrets along Colombia’s competition and be in Magdalena river with a shot of winning a trip to Texas 177 Travel icon: Cape Town Beyond the buzz of South Africa’s vibrant capital are mountain treks and moving museums aplenty 179 Short break: Tenerife Windsur ing, wildlife and walks galore – why everyone’s favourite Canary island is an adventurer’s dream 46 Points of view 96 136 12 View inder Top photogr phs, from the northern lights to gre t whites 18 Your letters & photos Exploring Kyrgyzstan and rainforest wonders – what you’ve been up to 186 The real wonders of the world Why Australia’s Ningaloo reef is the marine hotspot you need to see 10 wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020

88 WIN WanderSleeps: Snow & ice Three trips from Exodus Travels– worth up to Winter is here! Brave the chill and £20,000! p44 hunker down in mountain-top towers, treetop boltholes and moving cabins in A trip to Kuala Lumpur and the coolest climes Penang, worth £5,500, with PAGE This issue Malaysian Airlines p86 mapped Naresh Jariwala* A walking holiday for two in Explore 172 Portugal, worth £2,000 p148 Albania p79, 165 Antarctica p33 23 Grapevine Discover conservation isn’t Aqaba p28 a popularity contest. Argentina p34 The latest news and trips in travel 162 Your travel tips Australia For more from Kris Tompkins, Belarus p31, p186 28 Go now: Aqaba How to get the most out of see our interview on page 34 Belize p85 Central America, as told by you Canada As lights double up, we revisit this 34 Cape Town p164, 165 city’s ancient and aquatic treasures 165 Just back from Chile p75 China p177 30 The trip Your tales from Albania Colombia Costa Rica p32, p34 Slow down and take your time on 167 The Knowledge Croatia p42, 171 one of these extra-long journeys Czech Republic Tales from the road with Nitin Denmark p136 36 Eat this Dhami, silver winner of this year’s El Salvador p165 World Guide Awards Falkland Islands p83 Why a Mont Blanc tart is the tiny France p88 treat to reckon with this season 168 Ask the experts Finland p33 Georgia p164, p165 38 Head to head: Central From Indian bus journeys to Greenland American countries Peruvian hikes, our experts have Guatemala p31 the tips to it your trips Honduras p36 Costa Rica’s packed with oceanic India p89, p91 beaches, but will it be Belize’s misty 170 Instant Expert Ireland p96 Mayan ruins that tempt you? Italy p91 Spin yourself into a frenzy with Japan p165 41 Dream sleep Turkey’s Whirling Dervishes Kazakhstan p164 Kenya p46, 167 Epic views over Peru’s Sacred 171 Health Kyrgyzstan p77 Valley await those who dare a stay Laos p36, p92 at Skylodge Adventure Suites Dr Jane shares the lowdown on Lebanon p70 avoiding disease on your travels Mongolia p32 42 Dispatches Namibia p65 172 Gear Nicaragua p32, p81 Encounter scarf-wearing chickens Norway p30 and storytellers alike in rural China Our go-to gear guru/stand-in Sant Pakistan p83 wows with her Xmas gift round-up Panama p31 30 (warning: wrapping not included) Papua New Guinea p66 Patagonia p68, p164 175 Travel books Portugal p33, p91, p92 Saudi Arabia p75 Hisham Matar inds hope in art in South Georgia p165 Siena; plus all the latest travel read Sweden p167 Switzerland p72 Tajikistan p81 Tenerife p85 Thailand p31 Turkmenistan p33, p89 Uzbekistan p92 Vietnam p32 Wrangel Island p179 Zimbabwe p30 p32 p32 p30 p116 p79 Georgia, p96 Wrangel Island, p116 This issue’s highlights China, p42 Tenerife, p179 India, p46 Colombia, p136 Cape Town, p177 wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020 11

Naresh Jariwala* Watching the aurora Lofoten, Norway Photographer: Nicolai Brügger If you want to see the northern lights at their best, you’ll need to be patient – something photographer Nicolai Brügger learnt on his trip to Norway. He hiked to the top of O ersøykammen mountain in the snow and had to wait many hours until after midnight to capture the breathtaking giant aurora over the Lofotens. The award-winning image can be seen at the Insight Investment Astronomy Photographer of the Year exhibition at the National Maritime Museum, London until 26 April 2020 (rmg.co.uk). © The Watcher by Nicolai Brügger (Germany) – AURORAE WINNER

VIEWFINDER UPFRONT “As if from Heaven itself, great green curtains of delicate light hung and trembled.” Philip Pullman, His Dark Materials author Naresh Jariwala*

Giants of the sea Naresh Jariwala* Photographer: York Hovest The largest predatory ish in the ocean, the great white shark has a fearsome reputation, but it’s not deserved. In fact, sharks like this one – photographed in Guadalupe Island’s waters, o Mexico’s Paci ic coastline – play a vital role in the ecosystem and are an indicator of the ocean’s health. In this book, photographer York Hovest sets out to highlight the heroes of the ocean – wildlife and conservationists alike – and what we stand to lose if we don’t take action to protect our planet. © Heroes of the Sea by York Hovest (£45; teNeues) is out now; www.teneues.com, www.heroesofthesea.com

VIEWFINDER UPFRONT Naresh Jariwala*

Smoking hot Java, Indonesia Photographer: Moritz Wolf At 2,329m, the seemingly ever-smoking Mount Bromo is not Indonesia’s highest peak, but it does boast some of the country’s most dramatic views. It’s one of ive volcanoes in the Tennger massif in East Java’s Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park (pictured fuming to the left, with Mount Batok at the forefront and Mount Semeru looming at the back), and visitors can hike to the top for the chance to (carefully) stare down into its crater – smoke permitting. © imageBROKER/Moritz Wolf/AWL Images Naresh Jariwala*

VIEWFINDER UPFRONT Naresh Jariwala*

UPFRONT POSTE RESTANTE Your letters Your mail and missives: being inspired to explore Kyrgyzstan, falling in love with Hoi An, remembering a remarkable wildlife highlight of a Costa Rica holiday and much more... Star letter Naresh Jariwala* SOCIAL Rain on ants’ parade TALK Up for it in Kyrgyzstan Wanderlust reserves the right to edit letters/Dreamstime, Shutterstock The photo of a leaf cutter ant on Remembering page 129 [issue 200, October 2019] I saw your article on the little-known a trip to South brought back memories of a trip to and quirky country of Kyrgyzstan which Africa: “At irst I was Costa Rica in 2012. My daughter and mentioned a tour with Regent [issue 194, not keen for a whole I were trans ixed in the rainforest March 2019], and decided to book week in one of the watching thousands of leaf cutter the trip with a friend. Wow, it was fantastic. The holiday is not for the hottest and deadest ants in a long procession. When ive-star hotel brigade, but for more intrepid travellers, with accommodation lands I had ever there was a sudden downpour, in homestays, guest houses and yurts. The scenery was glorious, food seen before. But as those thousands of ants stopped, delicious and we had a great guide and driver with a Toyota Land Cruiser. we ventured further as one, and turned the leaves over By the way I am 80 and still up for it! I love your magazine. into the Karoo, the their heads like umbrellas. I’ve been Anne Vaughan, via email landscapes became lucky enough to sit with mountain breathtaking.” gorillas, see brown bears in Alaska, Hoi An adventure @aquilastadtherr polar bears in the Arctic and Antarctic penguins, but nothing After reading about Vietnam Recalling came close to the sheer wonder of in a number of issues of Serbia: “Loved that encounter in the pouring rain. Wanderlust, I inally travelled Belgrade when I Brenda Boulton, via email there. We had visited eleven was there. Such years ago and decided to return a cool, relaxed city.” Northern sights but to di erent places. We @stu_mac1970 started our adventure in Hoi An, Well done for encouraging people which was absolutely amazing, Sharing to visit Sri Lanka again [issue 201, spent a couple of nights in Hue memories of November 2019]. But please do not and one night in Hanoi before Bran Castle near forget the Tamil north. If Sri Lanka visiting Halong Bay and Luang Brasov: “Great is in need of its tourists, this applies Prabang. Great places featured memories of our double for the north. Jaffna is in the magazine. Halloween trip to a fascinating city with welcoming Neil Duff, via email Romania. Well people, and you get easily get worth a visit.” there by train from Colombo or Linda Brooks on a cultural triangle tour. Laura Middleton, via email Remembering Ed: Great idea Laura! We’ll de initely his favourite look at featuring it in the magazine thing about a visit to some time in the future. Thank you! Dubrovnik: “Lopud. Middle island of the Win Ela ites. I’d go back in a heartbeat, given BUFF® HEADWEAR the chance.” Keith Roberts Each month, the recipient of our ‘Star letter’ award will win a versatile High UV with Insect Shield Bu ® – the ultimate travel accessory (£22.50 RRP) – so be sure to get in touch… [email protected] @wanderlustmag wanderlusttravelmagazine @wanderlustmag Drop us a line with your pics, thoughts, tips and travel suggestions, and help other travellers ind their way 18 wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020

YOUR PHOTOS UPFRONT #wanderlustmag Been somewhere beautiful? Done something amazing? Tag us at #wanderlustmag on Instagram or email your pictures to [email protected] and make us jealous. Naresh Jariwala*”Machu Picchu did not disappoint.”In the Kyzylkum Desert, Uzbekistan, ”Hiking to admire ancient and enigmatic Breathtaking views. Llama and alpaca visiting the 4th-century Ayaz Kala fortress.” rock art at Nanguluwur in Kakadu National central. ” Mandy Jarvis & Kate O’Farrell Christine Conway Park, Australia.” Louise Markus ”At Horseshoe Bend on a trip around ”Hagia So ia, Istanbul – a cathedral for over ”My trip to the Uluwatu Temple in Bali, various canyons and national parks in 900 years, a mosque for 400. A must visit.” Indonesia. I loved seeing wild monkeys and Arizona and Utah.” Jack Todd @katyteaandtravel Photo by @yexuannn_ exploring the area.” @diana_ ield “In front of the Vulcano crater just ”Visiting White Island, New Zealand. ”It’a a 2.5 hour hike up to the Monastery o the north coast of Italy.” Liz Batley Great to see geology in action.” inside the ancient city of Petra, but it’s Photo by Rob Batley Matthew Morpugo & Jennifer Owen absolutely worth it.” @mortenvstheworld wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020 19

Capture the moment and relive it forever Whether you’ve been across Naresh Jariwala* Europe or around the world, CEWE are photo printing specialists with 25% o visited one country or ten, over 50 years of experience and provide your photographs will be some of the best high quality personalised photo products all personalised photo mementos of your travels. Create a including photo books, wall art, calendars products CEWE PHOTOBOOK like no other with all and more. Visit our website to start creating your favourite photos as reminders of your something beautiful right away for yourself T’s and C’s apply. Visit the website for more details. time spent exploring our world. or as a gift for a loved one. cewe-photoworld.com/wanderlust

Naresh Jariwala* Kris Tompkins explains how she helped start Natura Vive the world’s biggest conservation scheme Exploonp34 Food | Culture | Adventure Travel news p23 | Try this in Tokyo p27 | Treasures of Aqaba p28 | Long trips p30 A yuletide treat p36 | Costa Rica vs Belize p38 | Into remote central China p42 DREAM SLEEPS Life on the edge Reach new heights at Skylodge Adventure Suites in Peru p41 wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020 21

Naresh Jariwala*

EXPLORE pThe What’s getting us talking at Wanderlust Towers HIDDEN TREASURES Naresh Jariwala* CHECK OFF YOUR TREKS Cross continents With a vast network of hiking – and time – with trails, Dominica’s diverse legendary travel landscapes are primed for bookshop experienced hikers and Stanfords’ beginners alike. And now you brand-new exhibition, featuring never- can check o your treks through before-seen maps, classic globes and rainforests and el in woodland lost letters from famous names such as with the O icial Trail Hiker’s Log Captain Scott and Florence Nightingale. Book and Passport, which Hidden in the Stanfords’ vaults for compares di erent hikes on their decades, these antique artefacts have di iculty and rewards hikers for only recently been uncovered during a the number of completed trails. recent move for the store. But now, they’re Get your free log book from getting their moment in the sun, with an Discover Dominica Authority’s entire section dedicated to Arctic and main o ice (Great Marlborough Antarctic exploration. Take inspiration from Street, Roseau) or tourist intrepid explorers and examine their epic information o ices on the island. accounts of extreme journeys to reach the For more information, visit polar regions and shape the world. Best of discoverdominica.com. all, it’s free. Open until 3 January 2020; 10 Langley Street, Covent Garden, London. DATES From 16 January Visit the Wanderlust Travel Photo of the Year exhibition at Destinations in Manchester (16 19 January) FOR THE and London (30 January-2 February). destinationshow.com DIARY 18 19 January Sign up for one of our media seminars at the Adventure Travel Show at London Olympia (p146). Take a hike Buy this! Napping on While it’s been widely reported that Mont Blanc’s the go is Planpincieux Glacier is in danger of collapse, many hiking routes are still available to adventurers never easy, willing to brave the Alpine terrain. Climate change may be altering the landscape, but trekkers but the currently face no danger on the Tour du Mont Blanc, the Walker’s Haute route, the Tour de Monte Simba Travel Rosa or any of the trails in France’s irst national park, Vanoise, over into Italy’s Gran Paradiso NP. Kit (£118; You’ll ind river valleys, rocky buttresses and breathtaking views over iconic peaks. simbasleep. com) has taken on the challenge. Crafted with innovative materials and essential oils, the compact kit features a roll-up pillow, warming eye Alamy mask and soothing sleep spray, so you can now slumber in peace. wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020 23

EXPLORE THE GRAPEVINE TRIPLE WHAMMY! Make sure to come and say hi to us at the Adventure Travel Show (London, 18 19 Jan) and Destinations (Manchester, 16 19 Jan; London, 30 Jan-2 Feb). At ATS we’ll be running travel writing, photography and ilm-making seminars, which sold out at last year’s show, while at our Destinations exhibition, you can see the winners of our Travel Photo of the Year competition. We’ll also be running a session on the new “Travel Smarter” stage, giving advice on everything from travel health to beating jet lag and travelling solo. Wanderlust subscribers get a free ticket to Destinations (destinationsshow.com) with the next issue, but do look out for the special reader o er for ATS (adventureshow.com) on p146, too! Naresh Jariwala* When East meets West HIT THE RAILS Joe B N Leung’s shot was Highly Commended Joe B N Leung; Shutterstock; Steve McCurry in last year’s Travel Photo of the Year competition Nepal could soon become a land-linked country instead of New year, a landlocked one after it signed new trips an agreement with China to look into building a trans-Himalayan We’ve got two exciting new Wanderlust railway network. The new Journeys reader trips coming up in service would give access from 2020. Experience the Pearl of the China into Nepal through the Caucasus on an exclusive tour of Himalayas, opening up new Georgia with former bronze Wanderlust routes through Asia. World Guide Award winner Dario Ghirlanda – or you can join Wanderlust ON YOUR BIKE editor Lyn in Uzbekistan and discover Storing your bike on trains is about to get a whole lot easier. The irst dedicated bike carriages in the UK are being launched in 2020. ScotRail will be transforming ive Class 153 trains on the West Highland line to include space for up to 20 bikes, as well as larger luggage and sports equipment. ad I gotten behind the WILD ABOUT MALAWI eeling came over me eing caressed by Once a hidden gem, Malawi is a cosmic wind, reminding me of what fast growing its reputation as travel at its best can do: I was set free. a safari destination following successful conservation work in Paul Theroux hits Mexican roads in his new book On its national parks. And it’s now easier to visit, too, with the the Plain of Snakes (Hamish Hamilton; £20); out now launch of a new online e-visa service (immigration.gov.mw). 24 wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE PERU’S wildest corner Naresh Jariwala* Wild adventures (clockwise from this) Trek through Iquitos; meet Loreto’s Bora community; cruise along the Amazon river; spot the elusive Otorongo Little-visited Loreto is rich in Amazonian adventures – here’s why you need to see it for yourself F rom the Inca majesty of várzea (floodplain) forest – 2For the adventure Machu Picchu roughly the same size as There’s a wealth of ways to lofty Lake Wales. Untamed jungle, rivers to explore Pacaya Samiria and the wider Loreto region. It’s one and lagoons play home Titicaca, to over a third of all of the best places in the Amazon Peru doesn’t short- the registered for a river cruise, on which you change visitors with species across the glide through waters teeming fine sights. It also Amazon. Here you with pink river dolphins, harbours one of the can see prowling endangered charapa turtles, most superb slices of jaguars, Peruvian Amazonian manatees, and bases from which to explore the the Amazon rainforest: spider monkeys paiches – one of the world’s rainforest, as well as meeting the wild Loreto region – chattering in the largest freshwater fish. On indigenous people in spots such a jungle-clad northern corner treetops, giant otters (known land, jungle walks give you the as Santo Tomás – a village with where tribes live as they have as ‘river wolves’) gliding through chance to spy more elusive a rich pottery-making heritage. done for centuries, verdant muddy waters, or glimpse the species such as sloths, poison This proximity to local life gives wildlife patrols the lush endangered giant South dart frogs, giant hummingbirds you the chance to sample undergrowth, and the cuisine is American turtle. Look up, too: and blue morpho butterflies. authentic Amazonian cuisine: uniquely exotic. Here are three the reserve is home to around Explore the rainforest at night try dishes like the breakfast reasons to visit Loreto… 450 species of bird, including to spot frogs, spiders and even favourite of tacacho (grilled 1For the wildlife the rare scarlet macaw. the glint of a caiman’s eye plantain balls with dried pork If the rainforest is Loreto’s peeking above the river surface. known as cecina) and inchicapi Alex Bryce; Janine Costa; Jungle Experience; Promperu emerald crown, then the huge (spiced chicken soup). Pacaya Samiria National 3For the culture The jungle city of Iquitos Loreto encompasses a pinch of everything that makes Peru Reserve is its most dazzling – the gateway to the Peruvian so captivating to visit: culture, jewel. Huge is the optimum Amazon – puts you in touch adventure and wildlife. It’s word here, as its 20,800 sq km with communities who a country rich in experiences, expanse makes it the world’s practise age-old traditions. which makes Loreto one of its largest protected area of The locally run lodges are ideal wealthiest corners. To ind out more, visit perutherichestcountry.com wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020 25

Naresh Jariwala* ABOUT THE EASTERN & ORIENTAL HOTEL Established by the famed Sarkies brothers in 1885 whose architectural landmarks include the Raffles Hotel in Singapore, the E&O is the only seafront hotel in the George Town UNESCO World Heritage Site. Over its 134-year history, the E&O Hotel has played host to the world’s most celebrated artists, writers and heads of state. Back in 2013, the E&O unveiled its 15-storey Victory Annexe with 132 quintessentially appointed sea-fronting suites, complemented by restaurants, meeting rooms, an infinity swimming pool and spa. Niche retail outlets were also introduced to further enhance the experience of guests. And with the recently relaunched Heritage Wing, the E&O is poised to reprise its role as a leading destination for timeless hospitality. Guests of the newly refurbished suites can enjoy the luxury of travelling back through time with round-the-clock butler service and modern comforts in keeping with the classic style of the Penang icon. The Hotel’s food and beverage outlets – Palm Court, Java Tree, Sarkies and Planters Lounge have a celebrated reputation for serving an extensive menu ranging from Penang’s heritage dishes to a traditional English afternoon tea and Sunday roast, whilst Farquhar’s Bar is the place to be for time-honoured bar staples. For larger formal celebrations, the E&O’s stately Grand Ballroom honour the era of debutante’s balls and black-tie dinner dances. Documenting the many stories of guests is the E&O Gallery, within the Victory Annexe retail arcade. This specially curated museum relates the story of Penang’s social and cultural milestones as seen through the eyes of the E&O and its patrons. Today, the luxurious all-suite E&O stands as the grande dame of heritage hotels, its arches and facades form natural frames for the longest and most splendid seafront sweep of lawn ever to greet the Andaman Sea. With cannons from the original Fort Cornwallis, Penang’s historical icon has stayed picture perfect since 1885. 10 Lebuh Farquhar, 10200 Penang, Malaysia +604 222 2000 (GL) +604 261 6333 (F) [email protected]

EXPERIENCES EXPLORE teamLab, Floating in the Falling Universe of Flowers, 2016-2018, Interactive DigitalInstallation, Endless, Sound:TRY THIS... Alternatively… Hideaki Takahashi © teamLab. teamLab is represented by Pace Gallery; Shutterstock Eat local in an izakaya Tokyo changing, floating – until the next, Naresh Jariwala* when you plunge into complete We’re all about izakayas (pictured Bright neon lights and soaring darkness, waiting for the next above) – humble hideaways that skyscrapers are most travellers’ first spectacle to occur. offer a range of dishes to share impression of Tokyo. But if you head deep tapas-style. Unlike traditional into the heart of the city, you’ll see another We suggest that you don’t Japanese restaurants, you can side to Japan’s urban jungle with our pick research it too much in advance, hunker down alongside hungry of mind-blowing insider experiences though, so it stays a surprise. locals winding down from a day at Allow at least an hour to get work and sample the sake before Immerse yourself in art around the spaces comfortably, selecting what you want to eat – the and we also recommend choice is endless and a world away It may call itself a ‘museum’ – but downloading the app while you’re from the traditional etiquette that it’s not a museum as you know it. there to enhance your digital surrounds expensive kaiseki fine Prepare to have your mind blown adventure. No two visits are ever dining. The best are not always easy at teamLab Planets, where sight, the same, so you never know what to find and don’t often have English sound and touch all collide for one you’ll find – just get there before menus so go with an expert. bewitching ‘body immersive’ autumn 2020, when it closes. blockbuster experience designed (From 3,200JPY/around £23; Visit a sumo stable by art collective teamLab. planets.teamlab.art/tokyo) Sumo wrestlers are the real stars in First, take off your shoes (lockers Sumo stars Japan, cheered on by avid fans as they are provided), then roll your Step inside a sumo take to the ring. But with Inside Japan, trousers up to your knees and find stable for a unique you can get some exclusive behind- your inner child as you navigate insight into an the-scenes action of this ancient your way through a labyrinth of ancient tradition tradition and visit a heya, instead – installations. Step into mirrored and their way of life a stable where the wrestlers eat, sleep halls where light bends around and train for their entire career, the you at one moment – pulsing, way they’ve done for centuries. There are a few rules to consider first, but if you can tuck your feet away and sit in complete silence for 90 minutes to respect the sumos while they train, you’ll be in for a unique experience. (Book both the above experiences via InsideJapan Tours as part of one of their trips; insidejapantours.com) Go-kart down city streets Have you ever wanted to feel like a superhero? Well, in Tokyo, you can! Dress up as your favourite hero with a group of like-minded avengers and race down the city streets for your own chance to protect them on this one-of-a-kind go-karting trip. Just make sure to arm yourself with an international driving permit before you go! (From 10,000 JPY/ around £71; kart.st) wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020 27

Peaceful retreat NGoow The calm and serene for a trip full of treasures Sharif Hussein bin Ali Mosque THE DESTINATION: AQABA, JORDAN Naresh Jariwala* Dreamstime, Shutterstock, Alamy With ancient sites to explore on land and diving opportunities in the Red Sea, Jordan’s port city of EAqaba is much more than just the gateway to Petra. Is now the time to embark on an epic trip? very corner of Aqaba bustling bazaars and delving into part of this city’s appeal – take wonders: the lunar-like Wadi Rum leads to a story. With souks crammed with lively market advantage of the warm waters and and the ‘rose city’ of Petra. Take ancient treasures stalls and traditional cafés. Follow bathe aside rainbows of fish or a two-hour drive north through on its doorstep and the snake-like stretch of spices and examine deep sea wrecks at Aqaba the desert and try to leave a full day glittering waters the smoky aroma of sayadieh (seared Marine Park’s 19 dive sites. to admire Petra’s canyons and pink leading out to the Red Sea, this fish, onions and rice) to your seat, Snorkelling, swimming and glass sandstone-sculpted temples. Time Jordanian city has long held a place where you can dine with hookah- boat trips are all on offer here, as your visit right and you’ll see the in our imagination, partly stemming smoking locals. Although the the pristine park aims to give Treasury in all its nocturnal glory from its scene-stealing cameo in Ottoman-era Aqaba Fort is closed, visitors an insight into life under – three times a week, 1,500 candles 1962’s Hollywood epic Lawrence of stroll instead to the shining Sharif the sea while preserving the marine illuminate the facade and its Arabia. But now, nearly 60 years on, Hussein bin Ali Mosque (named for biosphere. You can even spy crowning urn, rumoured to hide it’s easier than ever to visit, with the initiator of the Arab Revolt), snapper, lionfish and barracuda a pharaoh’s treasure. the launch of direct twice-weekly which lights up at night, before hiding at the Cedar Pride wreck, Return to Aqaba to rest and relax flights now booking until spring. heading to the beach. a sunken ship bridging two reefs. on one of its many beaches, and Start your trip by soaking up the Then hit the water. The Gulf of Aqaba’s also the gateway for two find a city waiting to write its next warm ambience of the Old Town’s Aqaba’s bright coral reefs are a key of Jordan’s UNESCO-listed world chapter – unless you do it first. 28 wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020

JORDAN EXPLORE DESERT DELIGHT THE NUMBERS WADI RUM 3 Camels, goats and nomadic tribes are among the few The number of that call the dry desert dunes of Wadi Rum home. With its countries from where dramatic sandstone and windswept rock formations, the you can spot Aqaba’s ‘Valley of the Moon’ is far removed from Aqaba’s seaside Arab Revolt Flagpole city looks – and yet, it’s only an hour’s drive south away. (Israel, Saudi Arabia Explore this rugged Martian wilderness, then stay on to and Egypt). At 137m, it’s the sixth tallest take shelter under the stars for a night at a traditional unsupported lagpole Bedouin desert camp. Here, you can sample their in the world. nomadic way of life and sample the cuisine, before falling asleep to the gentle lullaby of the lute-like oud. Naresh Jariwala* 50 The approximate number of local artisans you’ll ind logging handmade crafts at Souk by the Sea, a weekly street market (Fridays; Oct to May) that works to boost the livelihoods of vendors. Get there 1962 Easyjet lies direct TheyearBritish ilmstar from London Gatwick to Peter O’Toole yelled Aqaba from £106 return ‘To Aqaba!’ in scenes (easyjet.com); the from the huge movie journey takes around Lawrence of Arabia. ive hours and 40 min. He doesn’t need to say it twice – we’re there! IF YOU ONLY DO THREE THINGS Get out and about around Aqaba… PARTY LIKE A PHARAOH HI HI BIRDIE TAKE ME TO CHURCH Book a tour and head on over to Birders rejoice! Eagle-eyed Ayla’s ancient church is Pharaoh’s Island, where you can spotters can spy a whole host of something of an archaeological walk among the island’s castle migratory birds at Aqaba Bird wonder. What’s left of the towers and passageways to Observatory. And if you’re keen centuries-old mud-brick complex imagine its long history, before is now lauded as the oldest church diving in the water and waving to to tick white-eyed gulls from in the world – so make sure you get Egypt, located only 250m away. your to-see list, you’re in luck – your prayers in order before you go. they’re endemic to the Red Sea. wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020 29

Naresh Jariwala*The top nine LONG JOURNEYS By extending the length of your adventure you can live the places you visit instead of just seeing them. Here are some of the best long trips… WILD WORLD TREK AN UNEXPLORED WILDERNESS, SOUTH EAST ASIA Venture away from the tourist trails on All Points East’s Unexplored: The Far North, Thailand, Laos and Vietnam trip. Explore the border markets, ancient cities and opium museum of Thailand’s Golden Triangle, before crossing the Mekong to trek through the mountains and forests of Northern Laos. Journey past limestone caves, rice terraces and traditional hilltop tribes, then see how ancient history and modern culture collide to create a beguiling new world in the timeless UNESCO-listed cities of Luang Prabang and Hanoi. Who? All Points East (allpointseast.com) When? Monthly departures How long? 22 days How much? From £2,100pp sharing (excluding int’l lights)

Wipaporn Ord; Jon Chater, Nomadic Welcomes; Nigel McCall CULTURAL ESCAPE THE TRIP EXPLORE Naresh Jariwala* HAVE AN OVERLAND ADVENTURE, MONGOLIA ISLAND GETAWAY Take on Mongolia: The Grand Tour with Goyo Travel and HOP THROUGH THE SOUTH ATLANTIC experience all of the highlights of the country’s changing landscapes – from the Flaming Cli s in the vast Gobi Desert Journey to Remote Atlantic Islands (Hebridean Sky) with the to steppe, hot springs and alpine lakes. Meet local nomads Small Cruise Ship Collection. Begin your voyage in the and stay in traditional ger camps, before heading to Falkland Islands, then cross over to South Georgia to admire a Naadam festival, where you can expect horse-racing, its snow-covered peaks and hang out with fur seals and king wrestling matches and taste-bud-tickling cuisine. An penguins. Pass through the world’s most remote authentic encounter with rural culture at its best. archipelago, Tristan da Cunha; see where Napoleon was Who? Goyo Travel (goyotravel.com; 01869 866520) exiled in St Helena; and take a dip in Senegal’s warm waters. When? 27 June 2020; 8 August 2020 Who? Small Cruise Ship Collection (small-cruise-ships.com; How long? 23 days 01432 507 280) How much? From £3,500* (excluding int’l lights) When? 11 March 2021 *For 10% o , quote GTWander10 (valid until 31 December) How long? 35 days How much? From £11,995 (including int’l lights) SMOOTH SAILING wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020 31 GO ON AN AQUATIC EPIC, AUSTRALIA Jump aboard the Starling for Rubicon 3’s ambitious 27-day adventure, Sailing in the Whitsunday and Great Barrier Reef. Join sailors on the ifth leg of a round-the-world rally, hopping on-and-o the yacht as you please to snorkel through the clear waters o the Whitsunday Islands, admire Lizard Island’s giant clams and manta rays, before navigating the Arafura Sea towards Darwin, with stop-o s to explore Aboriginal outback settlements on your way. Who? Rubicon 3 (rubicon3.co.uk; 020 3086 7245) When? 5 August 2020 How long? 27 days How much? £4,750 (excluding int’l lights) ⊳

EXPLORE THE TR ⊳ EASTERN ENCOUNTER SEE IT ALL, EASTERN EUROPE Write your own odyssey on Tucan Travel’s Eastern Europe Discovery trip, which takes you on a two-month journey from Moscow to Istanbul through the continent’s most iconic vistas and rarely visited gems. You’ll see a little bit of everything: learn more about Europe’s bloody history, artistic culture and friendly people on guided tours through storybook castles, cathedrals and citadels, with sunny Mediterranean islands, mosques, museums and mountain ranges also illing up your agenda, and see how this continent has risen from the ashes. Who? Tucan Travel (tucantravel.com; 0800 804 8435) When? April-September 2020 How long? 66 days How much? From £8,179 (prices vary; excluding int’l lights) ROAD TRIP Naresh Jariwala* TAKE TO THE HIGHWAY, CHILE Kai-Uwe Och; Robert McGillivvay; iStock Wonder at Chile’s vast wilderness on Pura Aventura’s lengthy Route of Parks Uncovered self-drive trip. Coasting down the Southern Highway, you’ll come across a dozen national parks, where you can walk by some of the oldest trees on Earth, before white-water rafting and sailing along the Fú and Cochrane Rivers. If that’s not enough, you can also hike through Valdivian rainforests, watch the sun set over the Patagonian steppe, spot Magellanic penguins and set foot on Cape Horn – and that’s just scratching the surface. Who? Pura Aventura (pura-aventura.com; 01273 676 712) When? October-April 2020 How long? 45 days How much? From £14,430pp sharing (excluding int’l lights) STAN’D OUT HIT THE SILK ROAD, CENTRAL ASIA Saddle up for a long trip on Wild Frontiers’s Silk Road: The Five ‘Stans of Central Asia. Lose yourself in Ashgabat, Turkmenistan’s white-marble capital, then cross the great Oxus River into Uzbekistan where you’ll spend time haggling in Bukhara’s bazaars, exploring mosques in Khiva and hitting Samarkand’s Registan Square. After exploring Tajikstan and Kyrgyzstan’s alpine scenery, end your trip in Kazakhstan. Who? Wild Frontiers (wildfrontierstravel.com; 020 3504 9073) When? 17 May, 20 and 27 September 2020 How long? 29 days How much? From £5,895 (excluding int’l lights) 32 wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020

EPIC EXPEDITION Naresh Jariwala*TRAVEL IN LUXURY THIS WINTER CRUISE THE END OF THE WORLD, ANTARCTICA WITH VIETNAM AIRLINES Soak up Antarctica’s scenic coastline on Discover the Non-stop daily flights to Vietnam operated by World’s Antarctic Semi-Circumnavigation expedition. Float 787-9 Dreamliners. through the famous Drake Passage and Lemaire Channel to land on Pléneau Island, conquered by fur seals and gentoo Convenient onward connections to over penguins. Take a helicopter ride over Taylor Valley, where 50 destinations within Vietnam, Indochina, conditions are closer to Mars than Earth – and wrap up your Asia & Australia. trip by inspecting Campbell Island’s diverse wildlife. Who? Discover the World (discover-the-world.com; Offering new routes to Bali, Phuket & Macau. 01737 887143) When? 13 Jan 2020; 16 Feb 2020 Winter Schedule 2019 27 October 2019 - 28 March 2020 How long? 32 34 nights How much? From £22,273 (excluding int’l lights) Origin London Hanoi Ho Chi Minh London Heathrow City Heathrow GO LOCO MOTIVE Destination Hanoi London London Ho Chi Minh TAKE TO THE RAILS, SCANDINAVIA Heathrow Heathrow City Looking to go long-haul without taking to the skies? Ride the Flight No VN54 Vn55 Vn50 Vn51 rails from London into northern Europe on Planet Rail’s tailor-made Grand Arctic Circle and Scandinavia Overland Departure 1100 0135 1100 1220 Adventure. Board Europe’s only boat train and discover the Scandi-chic delights of Copenhagen and Stockholm. Pass by Arrival 0515 0715 0615 0715 museums, markets and mountains as you travel down Norway’s coastline reaching Oslo and its 40 jord islands. (Next Day) (Next Day) Who? Planet Rail (planetrail.co.uk; 01347 825292) When? June-August 2020 recommended Frequency Tue, Thu Tue, Thu Mon, Wed Mon, Wed How long? 21 nights Fri, Sun Fri, Sun Sat Sat How much? From £3,495pp sharing (including rail journeys) www.vietnamairlines.com +44 (0) 203 263 2062 mytrip inder.co.uk vietnamairlines Know when you want to travel but don’t know where? Got an activity you long to try but not sure how? Try visiting Wanderlust’s Trip Finder at www.mytrip inder.co.uk

Naresh Jariwala* “Route of the Parks is some of the most extraordinary land found anywhere”

INTERVIEW EXPLORE Park ife with… KRIS TOMPKINS Following on from the launch of Chile’s Route of the Parks project, the ex-CEO of Patagonia clothing tells us how she and her late husband Doug helped create the world’s biggest conservation scheme Tell us a little bit about your Naresh Jariwala*him. He wanted to start makingDynamic duo Doug shared it all with you. Route of the Parks initiative clothes for us all. The upshot Doug and Kris His accident must have been Altogether the route is 2,800km of that is we started Patagonia devastating. What is his most long and consists of 17 national clothing and it just went from process that carries you along, important legacy? parks, and around 60 or so there. After 24 years I resigned like Alice falling down the rabbit That’s an understatement. We communities from parts of and went down with Doug to hole. You have no idea where were inseparable, so it almost Puerto Montt [in the Lake Chile and started working on you’re going to end up when killed me, but it inspires me to District] down to Cape Horn. It’s these parks. you take on things in life and carry on the work. His legacy is some of the most extraordinary that to us was very exciting. looking at the root causes of types of land found anywhere. Was Latin America what’s really taking place, a particular draw? Do you see rewilding as the speaking your mind regardless The Tompkins Foundation Well, Doug had a relationship best way forward? of the consequences, created conservation areas, with Chile and Argentina Absolutely. It’s one of the key understanding that donated national parks and because he trained down there ways to try to kick back as much conservation isn’t a popularity made sure others were well during his ski-racing era and fell of the extinction crisis as we contest, so don’t worry if people taken care of. This has been the in love. He started thinking what can. Iberá [Argentina] is where don’t like you. So many things. high note of the last 25 years. he would do next, went down all of our big time rewilding is. there and found what From tapirs to jaguars and How optimistic are you about Have you always wanted to eventually would become green-shouldered macaws – the future of our planet? work in conservation? Pumalín National Park. there’s a long list of species I think it’s really tough to be No, not in the least. I grew up in we’ve been working to bring optimistic in the short term. a small agricultural town called Pumalín NP was the irst area back for the last 15 years. Unless things really begin to Santa Paula in California on our you focused on. What was shift around we’re going to see great-grandfather’s ranch so we your plan at the beginning? It must be very satisfying. tremendous havoc. That’s what had an outdoor sense of being. For 25 years it was just the Very. I love it. It’s de lating when motivates us to work faster. Then later I became a ski racer, Tompkins Conservation area, it doesn’t work, but when it Individuals and institutions climber and so on. But it hadn’t but we always knew we would does, it’s pretty extraordinary. need to protest and work hard occurred to either Doug [Kris’ late donate it to create a national and we’re just a part of that. husband and founder of North park. Pumalín was probably Face] or me until we retired from the easiest one to start with. What‘s next for you? our business lives to get directly It’s a million acres of absolutely We’re looking at territories involved in things like this. pristine temperate rainforest so that combine sea and land all we had to do was protect it. conservation. I’m very How did you become a CEO All the other parks were in need enthusiastic about the future. in your twenties? of work and that’s how we James Q Martin I started working for Yvon started rewilding species that Read the full interview online [Chouinard] when I was 19. should be there but weren’t. Then when I inished my Like anything, it’s an organic Go to www.wanderlust.co.uk/202 studies, I returned to work for wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020 35

EXPLORE WORLD FOOD Naresh Jariwala* EAT THIS... From the look of it, you insists that this decadent dessert is Christmas pud could hardly tell that a ‘feat of engineering’. Rather than The Mont Blanc tart Mont Blanc the tiny Mont Blanc choose one side of the border over is stacked with tart tart is named after the the other, she tactfully suggests that yuletide joy, but also tallest peak in the Alps. it’s best enjoyed in ‘the local bakeries – mainly – meringue Best experienced in an Good things do come in small of the Grandes Jorasses mountain… and cream Alpine wonderlands packages, though, and with its between Haute-Savoie and Aosta,’ ’twixt Italy and France, delicate mix of white meringue and on the French-Italian border. Alpine Cooking: Recipes a Mont Blanc tart is chestnut cream piped into a perfect and Stories from Europe’s a tiny festive treat with pastry shell and sprinkled with The benefits to such a grand wintry Grand Mountaintops by sky-high ambition snow-white sugar, it’s also a yuletide setting are indeed obvious. Let it melt Meredith Erickson treat to be reckoned with. in your mouth as you settle down in (Ten Speed Press, £30) a cosy chalet, after hitting the slopes is out now But the airy Alpine dessert is more of its namesake. Or you can ride the than a tribute to the snow-capped Skyway cable-car system from summit. Some records date it to Courmayeur (Italy) up to Pointe 15th-century Italy, where it allegedly Helbronner (3,466m), which in the graced the table of the infamous summer also takes you across to Borgia family, yet it’s more often Chamonix (France). The mystery of appreciated as the jewel of Parisian the massif may dissipate at this point, pâtisserie, refined over centuries. but the wonder only increases, as you Versions of it span the world, with spy its crevasses and glaciers. Japanese kitchens often replicating the old-school recipe, while staying With a tall reputation like that to open to twists – don’t be surprised if live up to, maybe Mont Blanc is the cream gets a matcha-green tint. a fitting name for this tart, after all. Meredith Erickson, author of Get the full recipe online Alpine Cooking: Recipes and Stories from Europe’s Grand Mountaintops, Visit www.wanderlust.co.uk/202 36 wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020

Naresh Jariwala*

EXPLORE CENTRAL AMERICA Head to Head Costa Rica VERSUS Belize AT A Both teem with wildlife, but are you more drawn to Costa Rica’s rainforest- GLANCE swathed volcanoes and oceanic beaches, or Caribbean Belize, with its dive-friendly coral cayes and misty mountains littered with Mayan ruins? Costa Rica COSTA RICA BELIZE Population 4.9 million Spider monkeys swinging through lush Manatees grazing on meadows of eel Total area forests, half-ton leatherbacks pulling grass (pictured), sharks and rays 51,100 sq km their way up black-sand beaches, rivers swimming along reef alleys, turtles Famous for wriggling with caiman and more than 850 drifting over coral gardens, crocodiles species of bird… for terrestrial wildlife, crawling though mangroves… nowhere in Wildlife, Costa Rica wins hands down. The country Central America beats Belize for water- volcanoes, two also has jungle lodges galore, though at based wildlife watching. Accommodation the higher end of a travel budget. is also excellent for all budgets. oceans of CULTURE OUTDOORS WILDLIFE beaches and A ridge of smoking volcanoes drop in Thousands of coral islands and turquoise having no army Naresh Jariwala*corrugated folds of mossy cloudforest atolls (pictured) run through shallows to and jungle to Atlantic and Paci ic coasts. clover honey-white beaches. Lowlands Belize The latter pounds rocky bays backed by pocked with rainforest-ringed lakes rise to towering tropical trees. The Atlantic is highlands of dense jaguar-hunted forest. Population gentler, lapping slivers of black and silver Getting around is easy. You can drive across 374,681 sand. But you’ll need to ly: the country compact Belize in less than a day, and looks small on paper, but roads are long. boats and light planes access the islands. Total area 22,965 sq km Football, salsa, a carnival (pictured), black The Maya are everywhere – their ancient Famous for beans and rice, American condos… Costa cities tower over the forest at Caracol and Caribbean, Mayan Rica feels like a cocktail of North and Lamanai, and modern villages cluster and Garifuna Central America with a splash of the around San Ignacio and Toledo towns. culture, romantic Caribbean. Indigenous culture is thin on the Garifuna communities – descended from ruins and the ground – with no pre-Columbian remains Africans who escaped slavery – throw lively best reefs in beyond the vast, mysterious petrospheres festivals in Dangriga, and there’s a buzzing the Western at the Diquís Delta to the south. Afro-Caribbean vibe on the islands. hemisphere ACTIVITIES Wandering canopy walkways (pictured), If diving and snorkelling Central America’s Alamy;Dreamstime; Shutterstock; 4Corners Images TOP TIP birding through binoculars, scanning the inest reefs are not enough, then you can jungle for jaguar prints and manakin leks. clamber over crumbling Mayan temples Thinking of learning Or, when not wildlife watching, there are in steaming rainforest, wade underground Spanish? Learn at hot river swims and whitewater rides, streams to relic- illed caves or listen to a language school gentle kayak drifts through mangrove Garifuna musicians on the beach. The sky swamps and soothing soaks in plunge is clear enough for stargazing, and there’s within an hour pools in back-to-nature hotels. great horseback riding and hiking, too. of Belize’s reefs and rainforests VERDICT: Head to head? You’d be better o head to tail – with a visit to both of these (oneworld365.org), justi iably famous wildlife watching countries. Think of them as more complementary in Costa Rica’s than competitive, and you can tick o all the best must-sees in three weeks. buzzing capital city San José or on the beach in Guanacaste (theculturetrip.com). 38 wanderlust.co.uk December2019/January 2020

Naresh Jariwala* COSTA RICA Country life (clockwise from top left) Arenal is Costa Rica’s most active volcano; a turtle makes its way back to the sea at Tortuguero National Park; the High Temple at the archaeological site of Lamanai; warm clear waters o Belize’s coastline are ideal for those new to diving, as well as experts BELIZE

Explore the fauna and flora of the cloud forest 99% of Llama Travel Customers would recommend us to their friends Naresh Jariwala* Costa Rica 11 days from £1699 inc. flights from UK, accommodation, tours & transfers LATIN 020 7263 3000 5082 AMERICA www.LlamaTravel.com www.mytripfinder.co.uk FIND YOUR PERFECT TRIP Wherever you plan to visit next, Trip Finder helps you discover the perfect journey from a selection of Wanderlust approved tour operators www.mytrip inder.co.uk Powered by

ACCOMMODATION EXPLORE Room with a view Eat, sleep and relax from a height at Skylodge Adventure Suites Naresh Jariwala* DREAM SLEEP Skylodge Adventure Suites, Peru Wake up at the wing-level of soaring Andean condors, 400 metres above the Sacred Valley Words Simon Parker Image Natura Vive This might be the only By day, you can ponder inquisitive wonders for feeling mindful and Get there ‘hotel’ on the planet condors, twisting and soaring in the living in the moment. that asks guests to don thermals beside your pillow – and in KLM o ers lights a harness and hard hat the middle distance you may catch Hearty, organic soups and stews from London for check-in. But as you a glimpse of the Hiram Bingham are served in a nearby dining pod Heathrow to Lima climb a staircase of 170 steel rungs, train as it rolls towards Cusco. that’s reached by another short (via Amsterdam) while attached to a strand of high climb. There’s coca tea to alleviate from £485; lights tensile aluminium wire, you quickly By night, however, the sky the effects of soroche (altitude take around 14 realise this won’t be like anything transforms from electric blue to sickness) or a tipple of Peruvian hours. From there, you’ve ever experienced before. a deep, matte black, dappled in pisco – just don’t overdo it, you’ve you’ll need to ly billions of flickering stars. A head got to descend back to your bed. or drive to Cusco, After a 75-minute climb to 400 for heights is a must, but once before a inal metres above Peru’s Sacred Valley, you’re settled and de-harnessed, it As for check-out, well, that’s via a 90-minute minibus guests ascend into ‘rooms’ that are doesn’t take long for the adrenaline series of high-speed zip lines strung ride to the start of more like space capsules than rush to subside. The tourist scrum across deep ravines. Of course. the climb. suites. The three polycarbonate of nearby Machu Picchu will soon A night at Skylodge Adventure Suites sleeping pods can accommodate be forgotten. Clinging to a mossy costs PEN 1,475 (£343) per person, and up to four guests, with one double mountainside, in a luxury includes climbing, zip lining, all meals bed and two singles. greenhouse with no Wi-Fi, does and transfers to and from Cusco. naturavive.com wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020 41

CORRESPONDENT REPORT Naresh Jariwala* Leon McCarron Dreamstime, Leon McCarron Old oad and hid en val ey On a journey into remote central China, the adventurer and travel writer encounters enthusiastic villagers, an unusual rice wine drinking ritual and a long tale about a scarf-wearing chicken “No,” said Mr Hou. “You’ve misunderstood.” I tried It’s the climb National Forest Park, the in the area and didn’t own a car, it again. “So the scarf stays mountains of which inspired the could take as long as three days. on the chicken for three (top) Leon McCarron film Avatar, there’s not a great deal hiking in the Xuefueng known about the region to most In 2010 work began on a train line Mountains in China between Changsha and the city of days?” He shook his head. It was outsiders. I found myself there this Huaihua in the west of the province. di cult, I protested – I wasn’t used year with an odd but exciting The route opened in 2014 with to stories about engagement rituals mission: to design and implement a bullet train service that regularly involving chickens wearing scarves. a world-class hiking trail in the hits 354kmph. It now takes just over “Never mind,” he said. “Let me tell Xuefeng Mountains. an hour to reach the stop for the you about the cucumbers instead.” The Xuefeng area is one of many Xuefeng Mountains, and the journey I met Mr Hou in a village called across the country being opened up is open to anyone with a spare Huxing, deep in the mountains of by modern infrastructure. It was 100RMB (£11) in their pocket. Hunan province in central China. only in recent decades that there was “It changed everything,” admits Aside from the capital Changsha, reliable road access to Xuefeng, and Mr Li, who lives on the banks of the where Mao Zedong spent many of even then it would take five hours to Xushui river near the station. “We his formative years, and Zhangjiajie reach Changsha. For those who lived can go to Changsha so easily now 42 wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020

DISPATCHES EXPLORE to visit family and to buy things that Naresh Jariwala* ave their own we can’t get here.” It’s also brought th it, a number tourists the other way; so far, mostly nd a tradition those from Hunanese cities looking f oral storytelling for a quiet getaway. Local investors have seized upon the opportunity Fast track to rural life feeling, I knew what was coming. Our hiking trail is one of a number and created shaded forest resorts Four Huaiyao woman each took of new projects in this area and, in and tranquil riverside retreats. (clockwise from top left) a ceramic bowl, and a fifth a bottle of each village where we hope to pass Trains at the station Hooch. David was the first victim through, we asked villagers how Many of those who live in the Changsha; a Huaiyao and, as the woman crowded around they’d feel about tourists. Responses villages in the folds of the hills farmer with rice terraces him singing, the wine was poured, were unanimously positive. “It has identify as Huaiyao; a branch of the in the background; flowing down through each of the been hard for a long time,” said Mrs Yao ethnicity, who themselves are a villager in the Xuefeng bowls like a fountain. The last was Li in a place called Beidouxi. “Lots of one of over 50 recognised ethnic Mountain region; angled into David’s mouth and he young people have left. New projects groups in China. There are only Huaiyao card games had to keep drinking until the song will maybe bring some of them back around 10,000 Huaiyao, and their was finished. There was little work if they see there can be life here history has been a sad one; it is said done that day. again.” Mr Hou cautioned only that, they originally lived in the north, but “our culture is clearly unique, and it were driven out by war and ended It was here too that Mr Hou told must be preserved. If tourism is well up in Hunan 700 years ago. The me about the courtship ceremony organised, it can only be a benefit.” traditional Huaiyao dress, still worn where a suitor would send a chicken by many, is striking; in particular, the with a member of his family to the The train station is representative women have vibrant multi-coloured house of a prospective partner. If the of happenings all across China, headdresses and bright tunics. union was appealing, the chicken where the ultra-modern meets the Huaiyao have their own dialect and, would be returned wearing a small deeply ancient. In Xuefeng at least, with it, a number of folk songs and scarf, and the family member must the two are supporting one another a tradition of oral storytelling that be covered in mud. He also told me to create a brighter future. continues to this day. cucumber bushes were sacred because, many centuries ago, they More info on the trail on Instagram: When I first arrived in Huxing provided cover for Huaiyao women @xuefengmountain village with my colleagues David hiding from rampaging armies. @leonmccarron Landis and Dennis Hu, we were told that visitors must go through a welcome ceremony that involves drinking rice wine. With a sinking wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020 43

COMPETITION WIN! ALIFEOF ADVENTURE WITH EXODUS TRAVELS WORTH UP TO £20,000 K eeping up with Exodus Travels are currently in Jordan’s Petra ruins, Exodus soaking up all this incredible where, when and o ering you the opportunity to Travels is o ering you the country has to o er. what the world’s win not just one, but three chance to tick o the big adventures incredible holidays from a choice adventurous destinations you’ve Travel through ancient cities, are has one rather of 34 destinations – the chance always dreamed about visiting. past the fortress of Sigiriya and predictable result: when it comes to live a life of adventure. But how to choose? into the hill country towns of to picking one, you can be Kandy and Nuwara Aliya. A visit overwhelmed by choice. There’s Where in the world? Perhaps now’s the time to to Yala National Park to see a whole world of incredible head to a place that you’ve elephants and seek out leopards escapes out there, from desert That’s up to you to decide. always hoped to visit. The Cycle is a must before inishing up at treks to encounters with some of Whether you’re dreaming of the Backroads of Sri Lanka trip the beautiful south coast where the planet’s rarest creatures. So cobalt-blue glacial lagoons in takes you deep into hill country you can cool o in the clear sea. why stop at just one? Patagonia, or living out your and far away from the crowds wildest explorer fantasies as you pedal between towns, Or maybe you’d prefer colder Naresh Jariwala* temperatures, and the chance 44 wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020

to explore a frozen land in Naresh Jariwala* The operator employs local How to enter winter? The Finnish Wilderness leaders, meaning that its trips Week takes you deep into a course to the far- lung draw on the kind of knowledge Exodus Travels is o ering Finland’s snow-covered Oulanka south-eastern isles, walking that only comes from growing one lucky reader the National Park, which travellers shores lanked by barracking sea up in the destination. As well as chance to win three trips, can explore on star-lit hikes, lions on Santa Fe, spying rare this, Exodus Travels ensures that all of which include return snowshoeing their way into the blue-footed boobies on the when you head out on a trip, it’s lights from London. wilds in search of the northern beach, and snorkelling with with someone who understands To enter the competition, lights. You can even pick up new darting marine iguanas (dubbed what it takes to explore remote simply visit exodus.co.uk/ skills while you’re there, learning ‘imps of darkness’ by the and challenging parts of the adventurelife before to dogsled through the peaceful naturalist) on Española. world. It is also dedicated to 15 December and pick snow-caked forests and soak up responsible travel, having your top three trips the incredible scenery of one of From winter escapes to cultural launched the Exodus Travels from a choice of 34 the most sparsely populated expeditions, there are myriad Foundation in 2019 to support unique experiences areas in all of Europe. adventures to pick from. the communities it works with around the world. through various projects – from Alternatively, you can follow in About Exodus Travels taking children born in Kenya’s To enter this competition, and the footsteps of Charles Darwin, Naboisho Conservancy on their for full terms & conditions and on the Taste of Galápagos tour. Exodus Travels has been taking irst safari, to giving scholarships customer data policies, please You’ll board the four-person travellers on extraordinary to two female porters in Nepal to go to exodus.co.uk/adventurelife. Nemo II catamaran and chart small-group adventures for over help them develop their careers. The closing date for entries is 45 years, and has expanded its 15 December 2019. expertise to o er over 500 With its award-winning tours to Getty; Exodus Travels itineraries in 100 destinations. some of the world’s most incredible destinations, Exodus knows exactly how to create once-in-a-lifetime adventures, which is why its o er to tick o three in one go is one you shouldn’t miss. All you have to do is make a choice. Or three... To enter, visit: exodus.co.uk/adventurelife

Naresh Jariwala* The SPIRITS of Terai

Naresh Jariwala* Deep in the remote forests of northern India’s Dudhwa NP, the elusive tiger stalks in the shadows. But can our writer break his ‘big cat curse’? WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS MARK STRATTON

he tigers of Terai move like spirits South American jaguars proved and onto a gravelled forecourt of Well-spotted through the trees. Both revered and equally elusive. My three-day quest royal palms fronting Jaagir Lodge. (clockwise from this) feared as myths and man-eaters they to see a tiger quickly became A spotted deer; turquoise blue prowl unseen through the wind- all-consumingly obsessive. White-washed, art deco, with arm chairs in one of the rooms rattled stems of sugarcane fields and a terracotta-tiled veranda roof and at Jaagir Lodge; the outside of the deep sal forests. Yet for all their Animal Arc ornate Indian motifs this 1940s the art deco lodge; inside one stealth there are whistleblowers who colonial creation is eclectic eye of the opulent bedrooms; would give them away. Yet what a magnificent place to look candy. Once a private residence used (previous page) Half-lit for them. The Terai Arc is a 34,000sq by British governors as a jungle tunnels of greenness So it was when a guttural bark km alluvial lowland mosaic of forests lodge, it reopened, recently restored in Kishanpur Wildlife stopped us in our tracks. “Common and swamps incised by the south- to its former glories. My bedroom spotted deer,” said Amith Bangre, flowing Yamuna and Ganges rivers was certainly sizeable enough to hide Sanctuary’s forest hearing the call and hastily issuing from the Himalayas. Much of a tiger, perhaps behind the turquoise performing a U-turn in our safari it is located beneath southern Nepal’s blue fabric armchairs or under the vehicle. “It’s been spooked by a tiger.” lower foothills but I would enter it four-poster bed. from the Indian state of Uttar Sunset was due. We’d spent the Pradesh to Dudhwa National Park’s From my room it was a short walk afternoon in Kishanpur Wildlife seldom visited tiger sanctuaries. to the restaurant to dine with Sanctuary, part of Dudwah National Hosting rare biodiversity, the region, resident naturalist, Amith Bangre, Park in northern India, looking for according to the International Union over a vegetarian thali. Full-bearded tigers. With the deer’s distress call for the Conservation of Nature and stocky, the 32-year-old South the forest hushed meditatively (IUCN), has some 500 tigers plus Indian’s passion for wildlife is as quiet. No more woodpeckers elephants and greater one-horned fierce as a vindaloo. He began headbanging away like hyperactive rhinos yet its landscapes are under working in conservation aged glockenspielists as Kishanpur fell increasing pressure from human 16 when he first encountered under the thrall of Durga the warrior encroachment and climate change. tigers in Karnataka. He dislikes goddess’ fearsome striped steed. crowded cities. “I’ve spent 330 Naresh Jariwala* Yet when a roar came it was from ‘The forests of Dudhwa National a less-anticipated source. Human not Park are remote so tiger feline. “It was behind us,” Amith sightings are very special’ stammered. “I saw the tiger’s tail disappear into the jungle.” I reached the Terai from Lucknow days in the jungle over the last year,” via a 6-hour taxi ride south with he said as we planned forays into I saw nothing and so my big cat a driver who dribbled mouthfuls of three of Dudhwa National Park’s curse prevailed. I’d previously failed bright-red pan (an after-food mouth tiger sanctuaries. to see Indian tigers, had a poor track freshener made from betel). Lunch record with African leopards, and was sugary masala chai at a roadside The reserves are part of a nationwide stall with battered vegetable pakora network of some 50 sanctuaries that straight from a pan of sizzling ghee. have helped reverse the decline of Indian tigers since the government’s Just south of Dudhwa, initiative, Project Tiger back in 1973. monocultural sugarcane fields have Amith said the ‘o cial’ estimate encroached deep into the Terai. around Dudhwa is roughly 100 tigers. Amid them is a driveway of lychee “I’d be surprised and happy if there trees that leads past a grandiose was half that number,” he declared. entranceway of Corinthian columns But despite the successes of tiger ⊲ 48 wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020

Naresh Jariwala* INDIA wanderlust.co.uk December 2019/January 2020 49