THREAD MAGAZINE
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TABLE OF 12. Walking The Wild Side Places To Go in Lower Manhattan 20. Three Great Coffee Table Books Images 2, Things People Wear In Kenya, and Women Street Photographers 31. Looking Back: Requiem For A Dream A Film Review by Chloe Cheshire STYLE & SOUND 38. PART 1: 70’s Rock How to Dress For The 1970’s With Your Modern Closet 57. PART 2: Marina Yee The Forgotten Member of the Antwerp Six 60. PART 3: Patti Smith and Ann Demeulemeester The Underrated Fashion Alliance 65. Slowing Down Fashion An Essay By Matthew Boyd 71. Feminine Fruits 78. bottled content A Poem by Sahil Babar 82. Interview with Amy Neunsinger and Kate Martindale On the Art Industry and Finding Your Creative Path 92. The Gap Through The Early Years threadmagazine.com
CONTENTS
10 This magazine reflects everything I love. Fashion, music, interi- ors, books, photography, and learning. Incorporating all these dif- ferent aspects to give you a fashion magazine that has substance and life. Time is an important aspect of developing a perspective for art and fashion pieces. How does time change your opinion of the art you are viewing? Hope you enjoy. xx
11 CONTRIBUTORS Photographers Fashion Editor Bella Felicci Bella Felicci Izzy Brown Matthew Boyd Head of Advertising Bella Felicci Models Bella Felicci Art Director Izzy Brown Bella Felicci Kate Jones Josie White Other Contributions Emma Gonzalezpini Kate Martindale Umi Diouck Amy Neunsinger Jared Lam Matthew Boyd Annelise Adel Sahil Babar Chloe Cheshire Chloe Cheshire Lia Kondeti Lily Zimmerman Miller Phillips
Walking The Wild Side Places to go in Lower Manhattan Modeled by Izzy Brown
THE NYC AIDS MEMORIAL AT S T. V I N C E N T TRIANGLE I have spent a lot of time at this unassuming park in the West Village. Being so close to my work, school, and home, the Aids Memorial Park is where I go if I’m in need of a park fix. City pigeons are normally frolicking around the block while an elerdly man indulges in his book. The atmosphere is not as secluded as Central Park, it’s more embedded in the real statues of New York City which I think makes it that much more exciting. This park is a quaint one, but the surround- ing elements and history of New York City make it worthwhile.
Emily Bode, once a student at Parsons B15 School of Design, has created a little world for O herself in Chinatown, New York. The Bode D retail store resides on Hester and Ludlow and E was designed by her husband’s company, Green River Project. With heavy influence from Emily Bode and Aaron Aujla preserve American modernism, antiques, and nature, historic elements in every aspect of their Green River Project also designed Bode Tailor respective artforms while implementing new Shop, which is next to the Bode retail store, and reformed ways of reimagining the space where you can get a cup of cardamom-infused or garment. The Bode stores are inviting you coffee while your garment is being mended. into the brand. The space and the clothing resemble each other and make you imagine the garments as a store. Seeing the stores in person not only makes you want to buy everything in sight, but it also makes you value Bode and Aujla as artists and a conceptual team. Bode Tailoring Shop
16 Catbird, founded in 2004 by Rony Vardi, sells delicate and ultra-feminine jewelry pieces that although started as a small company, are now in-demand. The Catbird Forever Bracelet is ‘zapped’ on the wrist after a custom fit and cannot be taken off, as it does not have a clasp. The bracelets can be a heartwarming act for you and your best friend, significant other, or just for yourself. Catbird is all about the memories that come to be associated with your jewelry. Whether it’s the pieces you wear everyday without fail, or it’s the special necklace you are saving for a rare occasion, Catbird has it all. My mom introduced me to this woman- run business, and that makes it so much more quintessentially lovely. Jewelry is about personalization and altering another aspect of your style. Catbird also partnered with The Adventure Project through the Catbird Giving Fund in 2017, which supports the training of young female healthcare agents in Kenya and Uganda. The storefronts, one in Soho, Manhattan and the other in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, feel homey and intimate. You experience the brand at its fullest and most rewarding when shopping in person because the brand’s vision is carried out through the entire store in a completely concise and eloquent way. CATBIRD
17 PRINTED M AT T E R I N C . Printed Matter Inc. was founded in the 1970’s, originally in Tribeca, New York and now a location in Chelsea, New York, as a response to many artists being interested in the book as an artistic medium. The store and the world’s leading non-profit “dedicated to the dissemination, understanding, and appreciation of artists’ books and related publications.” (printedmatter.org). Every time you go into Printed Matter you will learn about a new interesting and exciting artist and become fascinated with their work. One could spend numerous hours in the store without getting bored and always find something new to look at.
18 SPRING STREET STATION 6 Train 6 Express Train 4 Train The subway stations connecting the many different parts of New York City are, to some people, what the city is known for. The busy and crowded stations create experiences for people unlike anything else they’ve experienced. Being from outside of New York, this Spring Street Station is where I first grasped the reality of the city and how unique it is from other places in the world. I am often making my way through the Spring Street Subway Station taking the 6 to and from lower Manhattan, venturing to Nolita, Little Italy, or the other surrounding areas.
THREE GREAT COFFEE TABLE BOOKS threadmagazine.com
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24 IMAGES 2 by Simon Porte Jacquemus Many of the pictures in Images II were taken with Simon Jacquemus’ IPhone dating back to 2010, making this coffee table book inherently special. Out of the 85,041 photos on his phone, the designer chose 321 to include in this book. The book exudes feelings of serenity and pleasure with its French inspired minimalist shots. It gives the viewer the desire to travel, to experience life with taste and elegance. Simon Porte Jacquemus is allowing the audience to be transported into the brand’s world, to see where the inspiration for the collection is derived from. This book further sets the Jacquemus brand aesthetic in stone. Although the book’s focus is not necessarily clothing, it highlights the aesthetic of the brand as it invites you into the creative process and mind of the French fashion designer. Jacquemus has discussed many times the influence his environment and his mother had on him while growing up. The fun and free- spirited energy we think of when we see a Jacquemus piece is thoughtfully translated into this book. Its gorgeous pages compile into a thick canvas-covered 8 by 12 inch coffee table book. The initial release in 2020 sold out but it is still available for purchase on the Jacquemus official website. threadmagazine.com
25 THINGS PEOPLE WEAR IN KENYA An Exploration of Modern Clothing and the Fashion Industry in the Country
Things People 26 Wear In Kenya by Philippine Chaumont and Agathe There are also many garments Zaerpour is a book that come from the east dedicated to exploring the that are mass produced and fashion industry within the shipped into Kenya. All eastern African country. three types of garments are Through the mass of pictured on men and women. images, the economics The garment industry is of the garment making damaging many countries and production industry just like Kenya where many of explain that fashion is not the jobs consist of production only affecting the people of fashion products. The who consciously digest companies that these people fashion related information, work for do not treat them it affects everybody. The with dignity or respect, contemporary clothing in expect them to work overtime these vibrant images are on a daily basis, and do not worn, lived in, consumed, pay them properly. or produced by Kenyan Things People Wear population. In Kenya appears simply Many garments as a coffee table book with worn by people in the gorgeous vibrant pages full of country are second-hand men and women in simple garments that are shipped attire, but the source of the from western countries as images actually tells the a ‘donation’. There are also story of how these people’s local fashion labels however, daily lives are affected by they are very expensive and overconsumption practices unattainable for the majority of the fashion industry as of the population. a whole through stunning images.
28 WOMEN STREET PHOTOGRAPHERS Women Street Photographers started out previously featured, but there is still a cohesive as an Instagram account dedicated to highlight- message throughout the entire book. In a male ing the work of women within the photography dominated field, there needs to be more represen- industry, because, as much in many other indus- tation and appreciation for women of all back- tries, women are not recognized as thoughtfully as grounds. Although the book was edited by the men. The project, started by Gulnara Samoilova, project’s founder, the book was written by Melissa expanded it to a website, annual traveling exhibi- Breyer, who through all of her pictures uses shad- tion, and as of last year, a book. ow and structure enormously well. The one hundred women featured in Samoilova, originally from Russia, made this book collaboratively exude both a candid and her mark in the photography industry first by cinematic feel to the viewer. It is important to taking award-winning pictures of the events of note that the book does not project white femi- 9/11 and the fall of the World Trade Center. As nism, and instead highlights women of all races, her work continued she became more interested in ethnicities, ages, classes, abilities, and sexual and street photography which progressed into Women gender identities. Street Photographers as we know it today. This Each photographer works and expresses project subtly demonstrated the inequalities of the their view of the world different than the one art industry by highlighting the work of women photographers from all different backgrounds.
31 LOOKING BACK: REQUIEM FOR A DREAM A Film Review by Chloe Cheshire
Requiem for a Dream is an emetic and disturbing watch. The incredibly stylized film is a cinematic objective of addiction, driven by gruesome sanguinary visuals and intense scoring to allow the viewer to embody the character’s delusion and unease. Director Darren Aronofsky’s take on four people’s relentlessly flawed pursuit of happiness left me feeling unusually nauseous, as his warped realities, body horror, and depiction of paranoia was almost too real. The film follows the story of a stout and ambitious Sara Goldfarb (Ellen Burstyn), her Brooklyn junkie son Harry (Jared Leto), his lover Marion Silver (Jennifer Connelly), and their friend Tyrone C. Love (Marlon Wayans) on their quest to perfection and downward spiral into addiction. The sound design, cinematography, and editing all work hand in hand to thread each interconnected character’s storyline together, until they ultimately end up alone. Each character is trying to substitute hopes and dreams with death-dealing drugs, allowing the film to serve as a bleak and cautionary tale against chasing empty promises. Cinematographer Matthew Libatique shot the movie entirely on film, creating an out of control feeling with his extreme close up, repeated, sped up, and distorted shots. I felt his practically faultless use of a fisheye lens and body mounted camera (a Snorricoam) placed me in the mind of the character as I simultaneously experienced their anxiety, a feeling intensified by the score. Composed by Clint Mansell, this psychedelic, frightening fantasia is Arronofsky’s most notable composition. The overwhelming score permeates most of the film, as there is rarely a moment without the panic-inducing music in the background, even in scenes that appear innocent and joyful. threadmagazine.com
L emphasize Sara’s paranoia from distinctly colder. Blue hues progressively ibatique’s ability to establish equally her diet pills (speed) and create a taunt these characters until their addictions hallucinogenic visuals is what makes the film such distorted sense of reality for the heroin defeat them. Their sprint into despair, the a horrifying yet enthralling watch. His tremulous addicted Harry, Marion, and Tyrone. harrowing treatment of their bodies, and application of the Snorricam creates incessant Sickly hues of blue and green the hazy cinematic color complexion is subjectivity and unites each of the characters when pervade the majority of the film and create an assault on our senses. The cinematic they all use it during high intensity situations. a distinguished color palette, one that narrative ends with parallel shots of each Wide angle shots in the film emphasize movement makes us feel unsafe and the characters feel character curled up in a fetal position, and capture their internal states, making the threatened. Warmer colors poke through conquered by drugs in the fight for happiness. characters as inescapable on the screen as only in scenes where the characters feel safe they are from themselves. There are two main and loved, which seems to solely be in their purposes Libatique used the fisheye lens for; to fantasies. Happy memories are bathed in a warm glow, but as the character’s and their relationships deteriorate, the colors become
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38 70s ROCK
39 PA R T 1 OF STYLE AND SOUND
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Vest: Vintage Accessories: RagCuffs and Model’s own necklace Jeans: Vintage Wrangler Bra: Model’s own threadmagazine.com
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43 ornamented the streets of busy cities and small towns alike. Andy Warhol was ruling the New York art world, The year is 1975 and the ‘Me Decade’ is in full swing. and he was popularizing an entirely different aesthetic. Contrary to his colorful pop-art style, Warhol’s factory was Iggy pop is puking on his fans down at CBGBs on Bowery street, full of models, musicians, and actors draped head to toe the world is cursing Yoko Ono for the separation of The Beatles, in black. They wore slept-in wool turtleneck sweaters, slim and the burnouts are still tripping off their final tabs of acid from pants, and leather jackets. Most notably were The Velvet the previous decade. The war is over, and America is celebrat- Underground who consistently presented themselves in ing. Men and women in fringe jackets, printed shirts, and flared colorless slim silhouettes. jeans can be seen stepping into yellow taxi cabs everywhere from the Sunset Strip in Los Angeles to Electric Ladyland studios in The Velvets were approaching androgyny with Manhattan. Disco is alive and well, and the clubs are raging 24 the way they were dressing, but they weren’t the only hours a day. The first traces of punk rock are being pioneered by musicians at the time challenging gender norms in The Ramones, and a trip over the Atlantic reveals the same angst fashion. The Rolling Stones and David Bowie all dressed being displayed by the Sex Pistols. Ripped sweaters, as women on two of their respective album covers, and their onstage wardrobe was far from average. Mick Jagger danced around shirtless in pants with no room for air, and Bowie’s elaborate costumes often included dresses. Even Robert Plant of Led Zeppelin frequently wore women’s blouses on stage. Some of the later 70s Musicians like Patti Smith wore the same attire and popularized monochrome slim-fitting clothing for the alternative punk scene. These subcultures have distinctive uniforms, but gender was not one of them. In modern-day fashion, designers constantly incorporate these attitudes with allusions to the rock icons of the past. Alessandro Michelle’s Gucci has featured iconic 70s looks time and time again. His collections are full of color, loud prints, extravagant details, making clear The rock stars of the hippie movement were giving peace a chance, and with it came an onslaught of new style. Chuck Taylors, and rebellious Levi’s 501 are their uniforms. reference to the popular fashion of the decade. Michelle Fast forward to 2022, and the world loves to look back on the even featured Iggy Pop in a 2020 Gucci Tailoring cam- decade and its fashion through their Elton John style rose-col- paign wearing cheetah print and emerald green suits, ac- ored frames. companied by Tyler the Creator and A$AP Rocky wearing equally eccentric suits. At other fashion houses, the grun- The 1970s carried on their momentum from the last gier side of the 70s is often displayed. Hedi Slimane’s slim years of the decade prior. Vietnam sparked outrage among cuts brought the Los Angeles Rock N Roll style of the 70s America’s youth and a psychedelic renaissance began. The rock back to the likes of the mainstream, an aesthetic that they stars of the hippie movement were giving peace a chance, and have continued to utilize year after year. In Slimane’s per- with it came an onslaught of new style. Jimi Hendrix and The sonal work he has photographed Lou Reed and Joan Jett. Rolling Stones popularized floral printed polyester shirts that Some luxury-oriented labels have featured rock stars in had starchy pointed collars, and their pants were skin-tight their campaigns as well, with Keith Richards of The Roll- with drastic flares at the bottom; they had to make room for ing Stones appearing in a 2008 Louis Vuitton campaign. their high heeled leather boots. Fringed suede jackets Avant-Garde fashion features the same inspirations with Comme Des Garcons having John Cale walk a runway in 1991. Everyday fashion has also seen a resurgence of the 70s, especially with the recent boom of vintage selling.
44 Vest: Ann Demeuleester Jeans: Vintage Levi’s Tie: Prada
46 The modern-day vintage look is distinctive and highly coveted. One look at the Instagram explore page will reveal the popularity of distressed col- lege sweatshirts, patinated leather vests, straight-legged jeans, and well-faded Levi’s orange tabs. The look is far more timeless than past trends and even comes at a relatively affordable price point compared to high-end designers. Thrift stores are a great place to find vintage clothing for incredibly cheap, but sometimes the gems are deeply hid- den. If you have a larger budget, curated vintage stores, and flea markets are great places to go for the 70s style. You can find rows and rows of leather jackets, denim, and vintage t-shirts for around $10. If those aren’t an option, online vintage stores are plentiful, and popular shopping apps like Grailed, Depop, and eBay often have great deals on beautiful vintage pieces. Basically, anything you see on a 70s rock star can be purchased second-hand, but if you’re looking for something new, the previously men- tioned designers present meticulously designed rock-inspired clothing. Shirt: Nili Lotan Jeans: Vintage Levi’s Boots: Vintage Accessories: Ray Ban’s Sunglasses
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rebellion, culture shifts, psychedelic, the Beatles, Jim Morrison, Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix, hippie, Deadheads, decontruction of social roles, Woodstock, progressive rock, punk, David Bowie, Patti Smith, Joni Mitchell, Lou Reed and The Velvet Underground, gender and sex, “take a walk on the wild side”, Warhol, war, Ziggy Stardust, Chelsea Hotel, New York, Bob Dylan, The Rolling Stones, fantasy, guitar riffs, working women, British invasion, Mick Jagger, counterculture, protests, rebellion, culture shifts, psychedelic, the Beatles, Jim Morrison, Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix, hippie, Deadheads, decontruction of social roles, Woodstock, progressive rock, punk, David Bowie, Patti Smith, Joni Mitchell, Lou Reed and The Velvet Underground, gender and sex, “take a walk on the wild side”, Warhol, war, Ziggy Stardust, Chelsea Hotel, New York, Bob Dylan, The Rolling Stones, fantasy, guitar riffs, working women, British invasion, Mick Jagger, counterculture, protests, rebellion, culture shifts, psychedelic, the Beatles, Jim Morrison, Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix, hippie, Deadheads, decontruction of social roles, Woodstock, progressive rock, punk, David Bowie, Patti Smith, Joni Mitchell, Lou Reed and The Velvet Underground, gender and sex, “take a walk on the wild side”, Warhol, war, Ziggy Stardust, Chelsea Hotel, New York, Bob Dylan, The Rolling Stones, fantasy, guitar riffs, working women, British invasion, Mick Jagger, counterculture, protests, rebellion, culture shifts, psychedelic, the Beatles, Jim Morrison, Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix, hippie, Deadheads, decontruction of social roles, Woodstock, progressive rock, punk, David Bowie, Patti Smith, Joni Mitchell, Lou Reed and The Velvet Underground, gender and sex, “take a walk on the wild side”, Warhol, war, Ziggy Stardust, Chelsea Hotel, New York, Bob Dylan, The Rolling Stones, fantasy, guitar riffs, working women, British invasion, Mick Jagger, counterculture, protests, rebellion, culture shifts, psychedelic, the Beatles, Jim Morrison, Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix, hippie, Deadheads, decontruction of social roles, Woodstock, progressive rock, punk, David Bowie, Patti Smith, Joni Mitchell, Lou Reed and The Velvet Underground, gender and sex, “take a walk on the wild side”, Warhol, war, Ziggy Stardust, Chelsea Hotel, New York, Bob Dylan, The Rolling Stones, fantasy, guitar riffs, working women, British invasion, Mick Jagger, counterculture, protests, rebellion, culture shifts, psychedelic, the Beatles, Jim Morrison, Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix, hippie, Deadheads, decontruction of social roles, Woodstock, progressive rock, punk, David Bowie, Patti Smith, Joni Mitchell, Lou Reed and The Velvet Underground, gender and sex, “take a walk on the wild side”, Warhol, war, Ziggy Stardust, Chelsea Hotel, New York, Bob Dylan, The Rolling Stones, fantasy, guitar riffs, working women, British invasion, Mick Jagger, counterculture, protests, rebellion, culture shifts, psychedelic, the Beatles, Jim Morrison, Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix, hippie, Deadheads, decontruction of social roles, Woodstock, progressive rock, punk, David Bowie, Patti Smith, Joni Mitchell, Lou Reed and The Velvet Underground, gender and sex, “take a walk on the wild side”, Warhol, war, Ziggy Stardust, Chelsea Hotel, New York, Bob Dylan, The Rolling Stones, fantasy, guitar riffs, working women, British invasion, Mick Jagger, counterculture, protests, rebellion, culture shifts, psychedelic, the Beatles, Jim Morrison, Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix, hippie, Deadheads, decontruction of social roles, Woodstock, progressive rock, punk, David Bowie, Patti Smith, Joni Mitchell, Lou Reed and The Velvet Underground, gender and sex, “take a walk on the wild side”, Warhol, war, Ziggy Stardust, Chelsea Hotel, New York, Bob Dylan, The Rolling Stones, fantasy, guitar riffs, working women, British invasion, Mick Jagger, counterculture, protests, rebellion, culture shifts, psychedelic, the Beatles, Jim Morrison, Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix, hippie, Deadheads, decontruction of social roles, Woodstock, progressive rock, punk, David Bowie, Patti Smith, Joni Mitchell, Lou Reed and The Velvet Underground, gender and sex, “take a walk on the wild side”, Warhol, war, Ziggy Stardust, Chelsea Hotel, New York, Bob Dylan, The Rolling Stones, fantasy, guitar riffs, working women, British invasion, Mick Jagger, counterculture, protests, rebellion, culture shifts, psychedelic, the Beatles, Jim Morrison, Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix, hippie, Deadheads, decontruction of social roles, Woodstock, progressive rock, punk, David Bowie, Patti Smith, Joni Mitchell, Lou Reed and The Velvet Underground, gender and sex, “take a walk on the wild side”, Warhol, war, Ziggy Stardust, Chelsea Hotel, New York, Bob Dylan, The Rolling Stones, fantasy, guitar riffs, working women, British invasion, Mick Jagger, counterculture, protests, rebellion, culture shifts, psychedelic, the Beatles, Jim Morrison, Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix, hippie, Deadheads, decontruction of social roles, Woodstock, progressive rock, punk, David Bowie, Patti Smith, Joni Mitchell, Lou Reed and The Velvet Underground, gender and sex, “take a walk on the wild side”, Warhol, war, Ziggy Stardust, Chelsea Hotel, New York, Bob Dylan, The Rolling Stones, fantasy, guitar riffs, working women, British invasion, Mick Jagger, counterculture, protests, rebellion, culture shifts, psychedelic, the Beatles, Jim Morrison, Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix, hippie, Deadheads, decontruction of social roles, Woodstock, progressive rock, punk, David Bowie, Patti Smith, Joni Mitchell, Lou Reed and The Velvet Underground, gender and sex, “take a walk on the wild side”, Warhol, war, Ziggy Stardust, Chelsea Hotel, New York, Bob Dylan, The Rolling Stones, fantasy, guitar riffs, working women, British invasion, Mick Jagger, counterculture, protests, rebellion, culture shifts, psychedelic, the Beatles, Jim Morrison, Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix, hippie, Deadheads, decontruction of social roles, Woodstock, progressive rock, punk, David Bowie, Patti Smith, Joni
50 Music is one of the most influential industries in IN ORDER TO LOOK SPECIAL WEARING the world and has been so for many many years. As THE CHANCY UNIQUE; IT MUST BE clothing is something that we put on ourselves ev- WORK WITH YOUR PERSONA, AND IF eryday, the two obviously integrate and harmonize THE TWO DON’T BLEND, THEN THE together. The fixation that many, like myself, have LOOK BECOMES PEAR-SHAPED. on the look of 1970’s fashion probably has some- -David Bowie thing to do with the desire to be a part of something monumental of the past. The 70’s were an incredibly iconic era and influenced a dramatic change in every part of modern society, including music and fashion, which is why vintage and thrift shopping has become so popular and why designer brands have invested designs and campaigns into the look of the 1970’s. I AM NOT ASHAMED TO DRESS ‘LIKE AFTER FOOD, AIR, WATER, AND A WOMAN’ BECAUSE I DON’T THINK WARMTH, MUSIC IS THE NEXT IT’S SHAMEFUL TO BE A WOMAN. NECESSITY OF LIFE. -Iggy Pop -Keith Richards YOU DO THIS BECAUSE YOU LIKE IT, YOU THINK WHAT YOU’RE MAKING IS BEAUTIFUL. AND IF YOU THINK IT’S BEAUTIFUL, MAYBE THEY THINK IT’S BEAUTIFUL. -Lou Reed
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