Winestate Magazine November December 2013

travelbriefsand wine. Also check out the Rutherglen FAMILY AFFAIR features dishes like croque-monsieur usingWinery Walkabout, held over the Queen’s local ham, Murray cod en papillote andBirthday weekend each June. While names AT All Saints, owned by a branch of one of confit duck crepe. Phone (02) 6032 8496.like Campbells, Morris, Chambers, Stanton Australia’s most famous wine families - the www.joneswinery.com.and Killeen and Pfeiffer are familiar ones, Browns - visitors taste and enjoy lunch in anthere are also several smaller producers in imposing chateau. All Saints is a heritage- CELEBRATING PROSECCOthe Rutherglen region. Newcomers Valhalla listed estate run by the fourth-generation ofand Scion offer something different, while the Brown family. Tastings are conducted in HEAD for the King Valley on the thirda visit to the new John Gehrig cellar door an atmospheric old chateau and winemaker weekend of November for the annualis a step back in time. Anton Thirkildsen is Dan Crane produces outstanding rieslings, Primavera del Prosecco festivities. Dal Zottoa relative newcomer to Rutherglen. He and marsannes and durifs. Visitors can enjoy Wines patriarch Otto Dal Zotto was born inhis family run the Valhalla facility, which lunch either at the Terrace restaurant or Valdobbiadene in the Veneto region, theboasts a winery made from straw bales and more casually at the adjacent Indigo Cheese home of Italy’s favourite sparkling wine - facility. The Terrace, where English-born prosecco - and Dal Zotto helped pioneervineyard run using sustainable agriculture. the prosecco grape in Australia. In fact, theThe wood-fired pizzas here are extremely chef Simon Arkless (formerly of Chester Dal Zotto family was the first to producepopular at weekends and the wine focus White in Melbourne) is a recent arrival, prosecco in Australia and in celebrationis on Rhone Valley varieties, including serves inventive seasonal dishes like of the release of the new vintage 2013marsanne, viognier, shiraz and grenache. seared yellow fin tuna with smoked tomato L’Immigrante Prosecco, and the arrival of and caper saffron dressing, or local rabbit warmer weather, the family will host three Scion is a new boutique operation run by wrapped in prosciutto with tomato, black days of fun, food and wine. The fun startsRowly Milhinch, son of a well-known Barossa olives, basil and polenta. The room has on Friday, November 15, with Pizza, PastaValley winemaker and a distant relative of the recently been revamped and the service and Vino, a celebration of fresh pizza andMorris family, who creates new-wave wines is top-notch. Lunches are served Sunday- pasta served with carafes of Dal Zotto wine.from muscat and durif. There’s a modern, Wednesday and dinner on Saturdays with Events the following day include a three-appealing cellar door, a tiny winery and a a free pick-up/drop off service. All Saints is course degustation lunch in the Dal Zottogarden area for enjoying wines al fresco. at All Saints Rd, Wahgunyah; phone 1800 Trattoria matched to new-release Dal Zotto 021 621. www.allsaintswine.com.au. wines ($75 per person, bookings essential), John Gehrig is the newest cellar door in along with tastings and live entertainment inthe region, a rustic and typically Australian Another great spot for lunch and tasting the evening along with a Prosecco Cocktailcountry shed at Gooramadda, where you is Jones Winery and Vineyard at 61 Jones Bar, home-made pizza, pork rolls andmight find the vineyard tractor blocking Rd, Rutherglen. Mandy Jones is not only a seasonal food selections, coffee by St Aliyour way to the tasting bench. Winemaker winemaker; she is a Cordon Bleu-trained and desserts. There will also be children’sRoss Gehrig makes wines of surprising cook - making the food at her Jones Cafe activities and entertainment by Loopy theelegance, including a stunning riesling well worth a detour. Jones spent 15 years Clown along with jumping castles. Onand a sparkling gamay. A visit here is a working in Bordeaux and just as her wines the Sunday, a “Prosecco Brunch” will bereal country experience. have a European sensibility, the menu followed by another degustation lunch and similar evening activities, with pizzas available until 8pm. New-release wines will include the Dal Zotto 2013 L’Immigrante Prosecco, Dal Zotto Pucino NV Prosecco and Dal Zotto 2013 Pinot Grigio and Arneis. The events are being held as part of the La Dolce Vita weekend when King Valley wineries traditionally open their doors to celebrate spring. For bookings; phone (03) 5729 8321 or visit www.dalzotto.com.au. Left: All Saints Winery. Right: Jones Winery. Opposite page Riding High cycling tours. November/December 2013 W I N E S TAT E 101

89 TASTED58 AWARDEDNORTH EAST VICTORIAA high strike rate here where it was pleasing to see quality Brown Brothers Limited St Leonards Vineyardtable wines from the cooler regions of King and Alpine Release Single Vineyard Lumiere Wahgungyahvalleys. These regions have made alternative varietals King Valley Pinot Grigio Rutherglen White Blendtheir own as one of the first to embrace non-mainstream 2012 HHHH 2012 HHHwines. And then there are the world-class fortifieds from Spicy pear aromas that are Inviting lifted tropical/grassyRutherglen. We should all be very proud of these wines developing nicely and good aromas and lovely fresh, juicy,and a bottle or two should be on every mantel! flavour intensity on the crisp fruit flavours. $20 and spicy palate. $31.40 CDSPARKLING OTHER WHITE Rutherglen Estate Reserve St Leonards Vineyard VARIETALS Single Vineyard Rutherglen Rutherglen Chardonnay5 TASTED & BLENDS Fiano 2012 HHHH 2012 HHH3 AWARDED Interesting wine – has a A shy nose, with subtle citrus 21 TASTED subtlety of honeysuckle on the notes and light, crisp, delicateSome stand-out wines here, 15 AWARDED toasty oak nose. Spicy buttery palate. Good oak. $22with good freshness, line and palate. Good food wine. $23length. “This shows what the “This shows the diversity of Rutherglen Estate Reserve Warner Vineyardregion can do with sparkling the region and the importance Single Vineyard Rutherglen The Rest Beechworthwines,” said one judge. of having the right varietals in Savagnin 2013 HHH1/2 Chardonnay 2012 HHH the right area,” commented Clean, fresh apple/pear aromas, Restrained fruit nose andBrown Brothers King one judge. “The Rhone Valley with tight delicate flavours on attractive fruit on the long,Valley Sparkling Pinot varieties performed well in the the nicely textured palate. $17 textured palate. $33Noir Chardonnay Pinot Rutherglen region. As did the All Saints EstateMeunier NV HHHH1/2 chardonnays from Beechworth Rutherglen Marsanne All Saints Estate FamilyNose has toasty brioche notes and the sav blancs and grigios 2012 HHH1/2 Cellar Rutherglenwith hints of citrus and good from the hills and valleys.” Intense, perfumed bouquet, Marsanne 2010 HHHsavoury pinot-lift. Creamy rich with spicy/floral touches. Nicely aged, complex, withpalate, lovely fine bead with Indigo Beechworth Flavoursome palate, with great toasty spicy characters andlingering complexity of crisp Chardonnay 2012 HHHH1/2 acid line. $22 good acid line. $30flavours. $25 A leaner style, with some citrus Jones Winery & Vineyard aromas and a delicate touch Rutherglen Marsanne OTHER REDBrown Brothers King Valley of oak. Refreshingly elegant, 2012 HHH1/2 VARIETALSProsecco 2012 HHHH minerally palate that has length Citrus, nettles and spice on & BLENDSDelicate aromatic floral bouquet and balance. A nice drink. $27 the nose, and a lighter bodiedand elegant palate, with fine palate, with a delicate flavour 7 TASTEDflavours and upfront sweetness Gapsted Ballerina Canopy profile. $25 4 AWARDEDintegrated with crisp apple King Valley Sauvignon Indigo Alpine Valleyacidity. $18 Blanc 2013 HHHH Beechworth Pinot Grigio The judges found this Floral, fresh and tropical on 2013 HHH a consistent group ofMorris of Rutherglen the nose and a long, lingering, A delicate lift of floral/pear interesting red varietalsRutherglen Sparkling pungent palate, with good aromas and youthful palate. showing some potential.Shiraz Durif NV HHH varietal definition. Easy Good weight and texture. $20Aged, savoury, leathery nose drinking. $20 Quarisa 30 Mile Australia James + Co Beechworthand dark, ripe, berry flavours Sauvignon Blanc 2013 HHH Sangiovese Cabernetlaced with fine tannins. $20 Tropical nose with grassy Franc 2012 HHH notes. Flavoursome varietal Good intensity of oak, cherry characters. Tight acidity. $9.99 and berry aromas. Interesting, Auldstone Estate warm, balanced palate. $40 Grown Glenrowan Chardonnay 2012 HHH St Leonards Rutherglen Aromatic, peachy bouquet and Cabernet Franc 2012 HHH simple tropical fruit palate with Nice vibrancy to the spicy good oak. $22 fruit nose and light, bright and simple leafy fruit palate. $28102 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013

regional tasting CABERNET Auldstone Estate Grown Ciavarella Oxley Estate & BLENDS Rutherglen Cabernet Reserve King Valley Sauvignon 2011 HHH Shiraz 2010 HHHH1/2 9 TASTED A simple, medium-bodied Subdued chocolaty nose, with varietal; heaps of spicy dark just a touch porty characters. 3 AWARDED berry/chocolate characters. $26 Generous, soft, ripe fruit palate, with a lovely velvety “Some difficult vintages show SHIRAZ & BLENDS mouthfeel and some very on the scores here,” said the drying tannins. $22 judges. But a few showed 15 TASTED Baileys of Glenrowan through with varietal intensity 7 AWARDED Glenrowan Shiraz and ripe fruit characters. 2012 HHHH “A mixture of good and average Attractive dark spicy fragrancesEaglerange Estate Baileys of Glenrowan years,” said one judge. “It does on the nose and a nice balance3 Daughters Glenrowan Cabernet show that good winemakers of berry fruit and tannins on theLimited Release Sauvignon 2012 HHHH can do well even in difficult mid-palate. $27Tempranillo 2012 HHH Subtle, aromatic, dark berry years.” “The better wines had Warner VineyardDark chocolaty nose and tight, bouquet and nice depth of concentration and the right The Rest Beechworthsimple, jubey, fruit palate, with varietal fruit flavours, with balance of oak and fruit,” said Shiraz 2012 HHH1/2fine tannins. $25 some richness and firm, another. “Interestingly a few Peppery, cool-climate shirazMorris of Rutherglen lengthy tannins. $27 showed the use of added stalks aromas and a fresh balanceCinsault 2010 HHH Ciavarella Oxley Estate creating Rhonish styles.” of spicy green varietal fruitLovely integration of dense King Valley Cabernet flavours. $36varietal fruit, well-handled oak Sauvignon 2012 HHHand spicy elements. $20 Obvious oak on the nose and Baileys of Glenrowan Battely Beechworth attractive, leafy, fruit palate, 1920s Block Glenrowan Syrah 2011 HHH1/2 with long, grainy tannins. $22 Shiraz 2012 HHHH1/2 A fine, velvety, cool-climate Bright, deep, aromatic nose shiraz, with concentrated inky – smells of cedar, mocha, fruit, some spice and fine chocolate and blackberries. Ripe, tannins. $50 flavoursome palate, with intense oak and grainy tannins. $27 “Hi to all you Shiraz drinkers! Rilka's As one of the owners of Heathcote Shiraz REAL FOOD “Tatiarra” www.rilkasrealfood.com (from Robert Parker 98+) I know a good Shiraz when I drink one.”Recently, I produced a range of food products that are available online, TASTES GREAT!and from an increasing range of stockists. They are ideal for those of uswho want to keep a healthy lifestyle, or for people with special needs, A range of food products that are:such as diabetes and coeliac disease. Wheat free Gluten freeThe local ingredients are sourced for flavour and taste, and just like wine, No added sugar Yeast freethey are best when temperature controlled. and compliments a great SHIRAZSo we ship them to your fridge – both commercially and at home, so thatwe don’t have to load them up with preservatives and other chemicals. Congratulations to the World’s Greatest Shiraz ‘‘Winners”Have a look and try some for yourself, and complement them with a goodShiraz from the Winestate World’s Greatest Shiraz “Winners”. 2013PRODUCT RANGE:BREAD – PLAIN, OLIVE, WALNUT, RAISIN, BANANAPASTRY – PASTIES – MEAT & VEGETABLE, VEGETABLEPIES – CHICKEN, BEEF, APPLEFAVOURITES! – FISH BITES & POTATO CAKES (LIGHT TEMPURA BATTER) November/December 2013 W I N E S TAT E 103

NORTH EAST VICTORIAAll Saints Estate Baileys of Glenrowan SWEET WHITES Morris of RutherglenRutherglen Shiraz Glenrowan Petite Sirah & FORTIFIEDS Cellar Reserve2010 HHH1/2 2012 HHHH Grand Liqueur TokaySoft and approachable. Intense colour, with youthful 26 TASTED NV (500ml) HHHHHAttractive spicy aromas. blackberry/prune aromas and 23 AWARDED Wonderful bright greenSome generosity to the palate. good balance of fruit flavours hues,with raisined toffee-likeWell handled oak. $28 and velvety tannins. $27 World class wines here! “A world bouquet and a palate with a of their own,” said one judge. lingering complexity of sweetIndigo Reminiscence All Saints Estate Family “An absolute treat to drink.” luscious malt, coffee, caramelBeechworth Shiraz Pinot Cellar Rutherglen Durif Everyone should have a bottle of flavours. $50Noir 2012 HHH 2009 HHHH liqueur muscat or tokay/topaque Baileys of GlenrowanRipe fruit nose; a touch earthy. Aromatic fruit sweetness on in their cellar. The ultimate! Rare Old Topaque NVConcentrated confectionery the nose, with a generosity of (500ml) HHHH1/2fruit flavours. $30 rich fruit flavours supported by Brown Brothers Patricia Big intense hit of chocolate good line of tannins. $60 Rutherglen Noble Riesling toffee aromas leap out the glass.DURIF & BLENDS Rutherglen Estates 2008 (250ml) HHHHH The palate is slightly drying and Renaissance Rutherglen Beautiful colour, with gorgeous very complex, with great depth12 TASTED Durif 2009 HHHH complexity of marmalade/ of lovely flavours. $759 AWARDED Smells of cigar boxes and orange peel fragrances. Morris of Rutherglen chocolate, and has a full- Intense, complex and luscious Old PremiumExcellent class of full-bodied flavoured, prune/licorice/ in the mouth and wrapped up Rare Liqueur Tokayreds. The north-east is the chocolate palate. “Needs a with good tight acid. $36.70 NV (500ml) HHHH1/2iconic region for this variety. steak!” $42 A great example of the style.“Fantastic power and Anderson Verrier Basket Morris of Rutherglen Cellar Amazing colour, with lovelystructure,” said one judge. Press Rutherglen Durif Reserve Grand Muscat NV rancio notes to the nose and aGreat consistency here! Shiraz 2007 HHHH (500ml) HHHHH luscious, treacly palate layered Ageing chocolaty/licorice Alluring nose – still has some with malt and toffee. $75Battely Beechworth aromas and similar characters semblance of freshness, Morris of RutherglenDurif 2011 HHHH1/2 on the palate. Very firm, with burnt orange-like rancio. Cellar Reserve RutherglenRed berries on the nose, with a drying tannins. Years to go Complexity and intensity of Grand Tawny NV HHHH1/2spicy lift. Great depth of varietal yet. 5+ $32.50 lingering rancio/raisined flavours Lovely dark brown colourfruit flavours, well-integrated Battely Beechworth on a luscious palate. $50 with golden hues. Intenseoak and mouthfilling tannins. Durif 2010 HHH1/2 chocolate/walnut aromas,“Great effort for a 2011,” Dark spicy berry bouquet and a Morris of Rutherglen with soft rancio touch. Moresaid one judge. $40 lovely integration of plum, prune Old Premium of the same on the palate. and chocolaty flavours. $44 Rare Liqueur Muscat Great example of style. $50Morris of Rutherglen Ciavarella Oxley Estate NV (500ml) HHHHH Baileys of GlenrowanDurif 2009 HHHH1/2 Reserve King Valley Complex aged chocolaty Rutherglen ClassicA rich, brooding wine, with Durif 2010 HHH aromas, with raisined touches Liqueur Muscat NV HHHHcedary oak and dark spicy Slight resinous notes to the and a wonderfully luscious Beautiful green hues.berries lifting out the glass. spicy berry nose and supple palate, with long, intense, Nose is a mix of lifted toffee/Massive astringent dark fruit on a drying palate. $30 chocolate, toffee, nutty flavours muscat aromas and a luscious,chocolate/licorice palate. – incredibly complex. $75 complex, licorice palate. $30Some well handled oak. $20 Morris of Rutherglen Old Morris of Rutherglen Premium Rutherglen RareMorris of Rutherglen Classic Tokay Tawny NV (500ml) HHHHCHM Rutherglen Durif NV (500ml) HHHHH Complex nutty rancio bouquet2007 HHHH1/2 A lovely, bright, complex tokay, and seamlessly-balanced,Resinous oak and a melange of with everything seamlessly sweet palate, with attractivedark berries on the nose, with integrated creating malty flavours and tight acid end. $75a huge, powerfully rich palate, toffee-like characters on thewith lingering concentration of nose which follows through todark brooding flavours. $60 the oily palate. $21.25JUDGES Warren Proft Marc Scalzo Geoff Alexander Winemaker at Chrismont Senior winemaker at Winemaker at Brown Wines, has worked three Rutherglen Estates. Brothers Wines. Formerly vintages in Spain and 14 in Previously winemaker at vintaged at Brokenwood the King Valley producing Brown Brothers Wines. in the Hunter Valley. predominately Italian and Has vintaged at Seresin Associate judge at Spanish varietals. Has Estate (NZ) and Delegats Rutherglen, Swan Hill & judged at the Mediterranean (NZ). Judge at Cool the Cool Climate Show. Wine Show and as an Climate & Toowoomba associate judge at the Wine Shows. Rutherglen Wine Show.104 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013

regional tastingMorris of Rutherglen Chambers RosewoodCellar Reserve Grand Vineyards RutherglenRutherglen Amontillado Muscadelle NV HHH1/2NV (500ml) HHHH Young and pretty, fresh tea/Intense nutty characters to the toffee aromas, with good oilybright nose and excellent palate, palate of pose petals and coldwith lovely nutty, rich flavours tea. $17and tight acid spine. $50 Chambers RosewoodMorris of Rutherglen Vineyards RutherglenClassic Rutherglen Muscat NV HHHLiqueur Muscat Bright nose and a fresh, clean,NV (500ml) HHHH balanced palate with a silkyA classic muscat style – great smooth texture. $16colour, with bright lifted nutty/ Chambers Rosewoodtoffee aromas and complex Vineyards Sweet Ambertoffee/aniseed flavours. $21.25 Rutherglen Apera NV HHHMorris of Rutherglen A golden wine, with simpleMia Flor Rutherglen nutty nose and quite a sweet,Apera NV HHHH fresh and simple palate. $17A great example of style Morris of Rutherglen– a real classic! Lovely flor Black Label Rutherglencharacters on the nose and Liqueur Muscat NV HHHa tight, sweet, bruised apple Nice toffee notes on the nose,palate. $15 with more toffee and raisinedMorris of Rutherglen notes on the palate. $16.50Vintage 2005 HHHH Scion After DarkDark chocolaty nose, with rich Rutherglen Fortifiedlifted spirit. Licoricey/leathery Durif NV HHHpalate, with soft tannins and Simple, young and sweet, withspirit poking through. $25 plenty of power. Needs time toAll Saints Estate integrate. $29Rutherglen Muscat NV Morris of Rutherglen(375ml) HHH1/2 Cellar Reserve RutherglenSimple sweet muscat. Bright Late Harvest Semillonlively nose and luscious honey/ 2012 HHHcaramel palate, with lifted Simple grassy/spicy bouquetspirits. $22 and youthful, grassy/citrusAuldstone Silver Jubilee flavours. $17.50Rutherglen Grand Muscat Scion Rutherglen RoseNV (500ml) HHH1/2 Muscat 2012 HHHA slightly drier style, with Floral/rose petal fragrances anddense toffee bouquet, burnt sweet grapey flavours on atoffee flavours and nice rancio fresh, balanced palate. $29notes. $40 STAR RATINGS Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs ofexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill.All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industryprofessionals and are compared in peerclasses by three judges.CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters,a major mail-order business.CD Cellar door price.CDO Cellar door only.SO Sold out.$N/A Price not available at time of printing. Contact information pg 144. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).For a complete list of what we tastedplease refer to www.winestate.com.au November/December 2013 W I N E S TAT E 105

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINHAWKES BAYFIVE-STAR HIDEAWAY The Garden View suite has a king bed and ensuite with tiled shower, with monsoon andLOOKING to get away from it all? The bath, underfloor heating and heated towel rail.Manse, a country retreat at Maraekakaho, Both suites feature complimentary wifi, Skybills itself as New Zealand’s first five-star TV and in-room climate control for automaticboutique lodge and caters to a maximum heating or cooling, free cakes, fresh fruit andof two couples at any time. This peaceful bottled water, and bed and breakfast ratesand gracious old home is a 15-minute drive range from $275-$475 per night depending onfrom Havelock North and Hastings, and room choice and season. Dinner is on requestborders the renowned Gimblett Gravels and can range from two to five courses. Theand Ngatarawa wine regions. Originally built menu is put together in consultation withfor the local vicar in 1910, the homestead guests and cooking courses and winerywas subsequently moved to its present site recommendations are available on request,which enjoys dramatic views across the as is afternoon tea. Phone +64 6 874 9625.Heretaunga Plains. The facilities have been www.themanse.co.nz.fully modernised and guests are invited todo as little or much as they wish, or perhaps FEASTIVAL FEVERjust enjoy the library and sitting room. Theswimming pool is popular in summer, HAWKE’S Bay now has two annual Foodwhile the spacious lodge sits in beautiful and Wine Classic (FAWC) festivals; onegardens. The suites are decorated with in summer and a new festival over winter.antique furnishings that match the period Tourism Hawke’s Bay general managerfeel of the building. Fine wining and dining Annie Dundas launched the new events,is available by request in the evenings, which feature a range of food and winewhile breakfast can be enjoyed in room, in activities. “FAWC came from the desire tothe garden, on the veranda or by the pool. showcase the best of Hawke’s Bay’s foodThe River View suite has a super king bed and wine experiences,”shesaid. “Inthepast, 1000 people attended winter FAWC eventswith fine Italian linen and superb regional we didn't have a single event that did this but over four days and the majority went to at leastviews. It has a spacious walk-in wardrobe now FAWC allows all our very best food and two events.” A second Winter FAWC event isand tiled bathroom featuring a double shower wine producers to be on show. In winter, it’s on the calendar for June 2014, while the nextwith monsoon, and underfloor heating and hard to get people out and about but FAWC summer FAWC will be held from Novemberheated towel rail. Plunger coffee and tea- allows people to eat out and spend money at 1-10. Events include the second Locavore’smaking facilities, towels for the pool, hair a time of year when they otherwise might not Lunch in Hastings - using ingredients fromdryer, luxury amenities, an iron and board, have done so. Winter FAWC gave people a the Hastings Farmers’ Market. Each table isbath slippers and bathrobes are all provided. reason to travel to Hawke’s Bay. Just under allocated an award-winning chef, a mystery box of local ingredients and Hawke’s Bay wine. See www.fawc.co.nz/programme/ events/. If you are not in Hawke’s Bay for either of the FAWC events, do not miss out on the Farmers’ Market held at the Hawke’s Bay Showgrounds, Kenilworth Rd, Hastings, every Sunday from 8.30am-12.30pm. A diverse range of products grown and produced in Hawke’s Bay are on offer - from hand-made cheeses, breads, ice cream, chocolates and meat products to seasonal fresh fruits, vegetables and seafood. www.foodhawkesbay.co.nz/.106 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013

travelbriefsLUXURY RETREAT suites have ensuites with shower and bath, dishes like cider-braised beef cheek pie airconditioning and have Sky television, with spinach and roast Jamaican marinatedWITH just 12 suites, Mangapapa Petit mini bar, tea- and coffee-making facilities, pork loin with apple and cashew salsa orHotel has built a reputation as one of New free broadband and luxury robe and venison “sausage rolls” with harissa sauce,Zealand’s best luxury getaways - and the slippers. Accommodation is offered in all matched to estate wines. Organic, localtastefully renovated homestead offers a four categories; the Mangapapa suite, and free-range ingredients are used whereboutique luxury experience surrounded executive suites, deluxe suites and possible and a new tent canopy has beenby landscaped gardens and orchards. executive rooms. Room rates range created to cover the restaurant courtyard,Mangapapa Petit Hotel is a great base from $450-$1500 a night, with the shielding diners from the searing heat and thefrom which to explore the Hawke’s high period from December 1-May 1. odd showers during summer. The Red ShedBay vineyards and boasts a top-notch Mangapapa Petit Hotel is at 466 Napier Rd, is open five days during winter: Monday,restaurant, swimming pool, spa retreat, Havelock North; phone +64 6 878 3234. Thursday, Friday 11am-4pm and Saturdaytennis court and three-hole golf course. www.mangapapa.co.nz. and Sunday 10am-5pm. In summer it is open daily from 10am-5pm, with Friendly Friday from 4pm-10pm. Clearview Estate is at 194 Clifton Rd, Te Awanga, Hastings; phone +64 6 875 0150. www.clearviewestate.com.au.Built in 1885, the hotel maintains its SPECTACULAR VIEWS AWARD WINNERcharm, but has rooms with contemporarystyle. Mangapapa Restaurant is open to FOUNDED in 1989, Clearview Estate at Te HAWTHORNE House in Hastings hasthe public and in-house guests serving Awanga, a “seaside winery eatery” is home been a regular award winner since beingbreakfast, lunch and dinner seven days to one of the most popular restaurants in taken over by Mike and Mel Lewis in 2010.a week. For dinner, guests can choose the Hawke’s Bay region. The Red Shed Located on Railway Rd just five minutesfrom six-, nine- or 12-course degustation, restaurant offers guests the chance to from Hastings and Havelock North,with or without matching wines. The menu take in views of Cape Kidnappers sitting Hawthorne House is a luxurious Edwardianchanges daily to utilise the stunning fresh underneath umbrellas or among the vines villa in lovely grounds that is rated asproduce from the kitchen garden and while enjoying local produce and estate Hawke’s Bay's top B&B. With four ensuitelocal suppliers. Gary Armstrong, who wines. Besides grapes, the estate also grows bedrooms, Hawthorne House, which datesshares the roles of restaurant manager avocados, olives and citrus fruits, along from 1905, offers a blend of period featuresand sommelier, was formerly at Dine with with a culinary herb garden to supply the and modern comforts with a maximum ofPeter Gordon in Auckland and at Auckland restaurant’s kitchen. Chefs create seasonal eight guests at any time. The new ownersboutique establishment Mollies. Think of dishes using local seafood, meat, poultry, have overseen extensive renovations of thecourses like Southern Glory oysters with dairy and artisanal produce. Breads and property, including the installation of newchilli, ginger and seaweed; smoked eel, desserts are baked daily on the premises bathrooms with floating glass showers andtempura mussels, celery, morels and and the coffee is locally roasted. On Friday energy-efficient underfloor heating. Guestsbrandade, or hare with bone marrow, evenings throughout summer Friendly Friday are invited to enjoy afternoon tea on arrival,smoked beet emulsion and golden beets sessions feature thin crust pizzas; live music; pre-dinner drinks and canapes in thematched to wines from the likes of Te a “wine of the week” and local Roosters’ Brew evening, home-cooked breakfast and freeMata, Trinity Hill and Craggy Range. All House beer on tap. The lunch menu features wifi, while a three-course dinner is available for $65 per person and several wine tours can be arranged. Weekend cooking classes with chef Cathie Hamilton are also popular. Rates range from $225-$325 per couple per night. Hawthorne House is at 1420 Railway Rd, South Hastings; phone +64 6 878 0035. www.hawthorne.co.nz. Above: Hawthorne House exterior. Opposite page. One of the bedrooms at Hawthorne House, lounge and breakfast in the gardens. November/December 2013 W I N E S TAT E 107

154 TASTED95 AWARDEDH AW K E S B AYAfter a string of favourable vintages leading up to and Vidal Legacy Series Elephant Hill Hawke’s Bayincluding 2010, Hawke’s Bay winegrowers had to grapple Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay Chardonnay 2011 HHHHwith unusually wet growing seasons in 2011 and - especially 2011 HHHHH Elegant wine, fresh and crisp,- 2012, before Mother Nature smiled again in 2013. Highly fragrant, smoky with strong, citrusy flavours,Among the white wines, the panel unearthed excellent bouquet. Tightly structured, subtle biscuity oak, a slightlyexamples of chardonnay, oak-aged sauvignon blanc, pinot powerful and yet elegant wine, creamy texture, and excellentgris, viognier, gewurztraminer, sauvignon gris and verdelho. weighty, citrusy and peachy, balance and depth. $29Among the reds, the results of the tasting convey a clear with mealy, nutty notes adding Selaks Reservemessage - grab the often outstanding 2010s while you can. complexity, youthful vigour Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay and a finely poised, lasting 2012 HHHHPrices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. finish. “Makes a statement,” Fragrant and vibrantly fruity,Wines available in export markets are shown as enthused one judge. $50 with subtle, creamy MLF(A) Australia, (UK) and (US). Church Road Grand influences, mealy, biscuity Reserve Hawke’s Bay notes adding complexity andSPARKLING CHARDONNAY Chardonnay 2012 HHHH1/2 good length. Skilfully crafted Tightly structured, elegant wine, already drinking well. $221 TASTED 32 TASTED wine with mouthfilling body, Soljans Barrique Reserve rich, peachy, citrusy flavours, Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay1 AWARDED 20 AWARDED biscuity oak and balanced 2010 HHHH acidity. Fragrant, complex and Drinking well now, this full-Mission Fete NV HHH1/2 A triumph for Vidal’s top finely textured. One judge bodied, creamy-textured wineFresh, lively blend of pinot chardonnay, Legacy, which scored it five stars. $49 offers rich grapefruit and nutgris and chardonnay, hand- scooped three of the four highest Vidal Legacy Series flavours, developing good,harvested, partly barrel- ratings with its 2010, 2011 and Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay bottle-aged complexity. $30fermented and made by the 2012 vintages.The cold, wet 2012 HHHH1/2 Villa Maria SingleCharmat process. Slightly growing season in 2012 yielded Smoky, flinty bouquet. Fresh Vineyard Kelternbready, yeasty aromas lead several excellent chardonnays, and crisp, with generous, Chardonnay 2012 HHHHinto a finely balanced, fruit- suggesting the coolness favoured citrusy, mealy, biscuity flavours Fragrant wine with strong,driven style, showing moderate early-ripening varieties, but that linger well. Youthful wine citrusy, slightly biscuitycomplexity. $25 (A, UK) some of the lesser wines were with power and finesse, well flavours, showing excellent honeyed, revealing a clear botrytis worth cellaring. $50 balance of fruit and oak, good influence that no doubt reflected Church Road McDonald complexity, lively acidity and the high rainfall in 2011 and 2012. Series Hawke’s Bay a tight, lingering finish. Well Chardonnay 2012 HHHH worth cellaring. $37 Vidal Legacy Series Mouthfilling, with strong, Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay peachy, citrusy, toasty flavours, 2010 HHHHH showing good complexity. This powerful, notably Creamy-textured, with a generous and complex wine lingering finish. $34 has a smoky, flinty bouquet, Crossroads Milestone sweet-fruit delights, a lovely Series Hawke’s Bay marriage of concentrated, Chardonnay 2012 HHHH grapefruit-like flavours and Full-bodied, with very good subtle, biscuity, nutty oak, depth of fresh, citrusy flavours, and a very sustained finish. It deft oak handling and balanced romped straight to a five-star acidity. Elegant wine with rating on all scoresheets. $50 some complexity and cellaring potential. $22 (A, UK)108 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013

regional tastingPask Declaration Mission Reserve Church Road Grand Reserve Greyrock Hawke’s BayHawke’s Bay Chardonnay Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay Hawke’s Bay Sauvignon Pinot Gris 2013 HHH1/22011 HHH1/2 2012 HHH Blanc 2012 HHHH Medium-bodied style, withStylish, medium-bodied wine Fully barrel-fermented, with Attractive, oak-aged style, pear, lychee and spicewith fresh, grapefruit-like a slightly mealy boquet. powerful and weighty, with flavours showing good varietalflavours, showing some mealy Mouthfilling body, with fresh strong, ripe, peachy fruit flavours, character, and a crisp andcomplexity, finely-integrated acidity and peachy, slightly showing a nutty, barrel-aged refreshing, slightly sweetoak and a crisp, fairly lengthy biscuity and toasty flavours, complexity. Tightly structured finish. (From Sileni.) $20 (A, UK)finish. $40 (A, UK) showing good depth. $29 and ageworthy. “Bordeaux-like”, Sileni Cellar SelectionPask Gimblett Road noted one judge. $49 Hawke’s Bay Pinot GrisHawke’s Bay Chardonnay Osawa Prestige 2013 HHH1/22010 HHH1/2 Collection Hawke’s Bay Babich Hawke’s Bay Fresh, crisp and finelyLemon-scented, partly Chardonnay 2012 HHH Sauvignon Blanc balanced. Dryish style withbarrel-fermented wine, with Light and lively, with crisp, 2013 HHH1/2 citrus fruit, pear and lycheemouthfilling body and good depth citrusy, slightly biscuity flavours Very good example of the flavours, showing good depth.of fresh, citrusy, lightly oaked and firm acid spine. Lean, regional style, with a ripe, $20 (A, UK, US)flavours. A “fruit-driven style”, it’s tightly structured style with aromatic bouquet. Fresh and Flying Sheep Hawke’s Baymaturing gracefully. $25 (A, UK) some cellaring potential. $39 dry, with satisfying body and Pinot Gris 2012 HHHVidal Reserve Series generous, tropical fruit flavours, Fresh, grigio style, medium-Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay Soljans Barrique crisp and lively. $20 bodied and vibrantly fruity, with2012 HHH1/2 Reserve Hawke’s Bay lively acidity and a dry finish. $24Crisp and tightly structured, Chardonnay 2011 HHH PINOT GRISwith good mouthfeel and Full-bodied, with generous, VIOGNIERcitrusy, slightly biscuity ripe, peachy, nutty flavours 11 TASTEDflavours, showing considerable and a slightly creamy texture. 6 AWARDED 5 TASTEDcomplexity. $23 Drinking well now. $30 4 AWARDEDBabich Irongate A solid class with several leanHawke’s Bay Chardonnay The People’s and plain wines, but the judges A small but strong class, in2012 HHH Chardonnay 2012 HHH also found some excellent which the three top-rated winesMouthfilling, with strong, Fresh and crisp, with grapefruit- examples of both the sturdy, proved the region’s ability tocitrusy flavours, hints of like flavours, a hint of oak, rich Alsace style and the lighter, produce rich, softly texturedmarmalade and honey, and a and good balance and depth. crisper grigio style. viogniers of wide appeal.subtle seasoning of oak. Quite (From Constellation NZ.) $22 Villa Maria Singleforward. $37 (A, UK) Church Road Hawke’s Bay Vineyard Omahu GravelsCrossroads Winemakers SAUVIGNON Pinot Gris 2013 HHHH1/2 Viognier 2010 HHHH1/2Collection Hawke’s Bay BLANC Attractively perfumed and Complex, slightly smokyChardonnay 2011 HHH fleshy, medium style with a bouquet. Sturdy, fleshy palateGenerous, full-bodied wine 7 TASTED slightly oily texture and fresh, with concentrated, ripewith citrusy, toasty flavours, 2 AWARDED rich, peachy, slightly spicy stonefruit and nut flavours, ashowing some complexity and flavours. Highly scented, with slightly creamy texture and adepth. Ready. $37 (UK) A small class of typically solid good mouthfeel and length. $30 long finish. Delicious now. $32Esk Valley Hawke’s Bay but unexciting wines, but Church Road GrandChardonnay 2012 HHH the very good quality of the Crossroads Milestone Reserve Hawke’s BayMedium-bodied, fruit-driven Babich wine bodes well for the Series Hawke’s Bay Pinot Viognier 2010 HHHHstyle with crisp, citrusy flavours Hawke’s Bay sauvignon blancs Gris 2012 HHHH Light yellow, rich wine withto the fore, some creamy notes coming up from the much- Light, lemony, crisp and dry, lush, ripe stonefruit flavours,and decent depth. Enjoyable touted 2013 vintage. in a very attractive grigio style slightly buttery notes and ayoung. $24 showing excellent delicacy, well-rounded finish. Weighty, balance and purity. $22 (A, UK) peachy and creamy, with integrated oak and good Church Road McDonald complexity. $49 Series Hawke’s Bay Pinot Gris 2012 HHH1/2 JUDGES Fleshy, distinctly medium style, with strong, slightly honeyed flavours, drinking well now. Slightly oily texture, with hints of botrytis, quince and apricots. $34Michael Cooper Michael Ivicevich Nick PiconeWinestate’s New Zealand Chief winemaker for Oyster Senior Aucklandeditor is the author of the Bay Wines and Delegat’s winemaker for Villainternationally acclaimed Wine Wine Estate, Michael is Maria, Nick grew up inAtlas of New Zealand and a senior judge and panel Hawke’s Bay, where hethe annual Michael Cooper’s leader in New Zealand studied for his BachelorBuyer’s Guide to New Zealand competitions. His parents of Wine Science degree.Wines. In the 2004 New own West Brook Winery, In 2012 he was awardedYear Honours, Michael was based in Auckland. The Wine Society’sappointed an Officer of the “Young Winemaker ofNew Zealand Order of Merit the Year” title.for services to wine writing. November/December 2013 W I N E S TAT E 109

H AW K E S B AYTrinity Hill Gimblett Gravels OTHER WHITES Farmgate Hawke’s Bay OTHER REDSViognier 2012 HHHH Chenin Blanc 2008 HHHFleshy, with strong, ripe, 4 TASTED Medium-bodied, with crisp, 7 TASTEDpeachy, slightly spicy flavours, 4 AWARDED lemony flavours, lively and 5 AWARDEDnutty, leesy notes adding lingering, and some toasty,complexity and a finely textured, Hawke’s Bay winegrowers bottle-aged notes. Enjoyable Bordeaux varieties and syrahlengthy finish. $35 (A, UK) promote the region’s ability to now. (From Ngatarawa.) $22 dominate Hawke’s Bay’s red- succeed with a wide range of wine plantings, but the region’sBabich Family Estates grape varieties and styles. The ROSÉ diversity of meso-climates andFernhill Viognier 2011 HHH convincing quality of the Church soils enables many other grapesFloral, vibrantly fruity wine, Road sauvignon gris, from a 6 TASTED to flourish such as grenache,slightly lean but with good challenging season, suggests 3 AWARDED from the Rhone Valley, anddepth of dry, peachy, slightly this old Bordeaux variety may marzemino, from northern Italy.spicy flavours and fresh have a good future in Hawke’s “The younger the better” isacidity. $25 (A, UK) Bay (and not just Marlborough, the golden rule with rosé, and Villa Maria Cellar where Pernod Ricard NZ has that certainly applied to this Selection Gimblett GravelsGEWÜRZTRAMINER most of its plantings). small class, in which the pink, Grenache 2010 HHHHH vivacious wines from 2013 Rich and silky-textured, with5 TASTED Esk Valley Hawke’s Bay clearly outshone the 2012s. deep, youthful colour and2 AWARDED Verdelho 2012 HHHH concentrated, berryish, plummy, Mouthfilling and vibrantly Esk Valley Merlot spicy flavours. Sweet-fruited,A solid rather than exciting class, fruity, with ripe, sweet- Malbec Rosé 2013 HHHH with real drive through thein which the youngest wines fruit flavours showing good Bright, light red hue. Floral, full- palate and lovely texture andperformed best and the single richness and a peachy, spicy, bodied and dryish, with vibrant length. “Very sweet, fine andentry from 2013 served as a fragrant bouquet. $24 berry, plum and spice flavours, textural,” noted one judge. $32classy harbinger of the vintage. showing excellent freshness Church Road McDonald and depth. $24 Church Road McDonaldMission Hawke’s Bay Series Hawke’s Bay Series Hawke’s BayGewurztraminer Sauvignon Gris 2012 HHHH Sileni Cellar Selection Marzemino 2010 HHHH2013 HHHH Full-bodied style, with lovely, Cabernet Franc Rosé From a variety cultivated inExotically perfumed. very fresh and lifted aromatics 2013 HHH northern Italy, this is a gutsyMouthfilling, with very youthful, and crisp, punchy, ripely Pale pink, with vibrant strawberry red, boldly coloured and sweet-slightly sweet pear and lychee herbaceous flavours, vibrant and spice flavours, and a slightly fruited, with deep, plummy, spicyflavours, balanced acidity and and youthful. Enjoyed by sweet finish. Refreshing, easy flavours and firm tannins. “Veryexcellent varietal character, all judges, this would be a drinking. $20 (A, UK, US) Italian”, noted one judge. $34depth and charm. $18 stimulating “food” wine. $34 Villa Maria Private BinBabich Family Estates Mission Hawke’s Bay Rosé 2013 HHHGimblett Gravels Riesling 2012 HHH1/2 Pink, lively and vibrantly fruityGewurztraminer Crisp, light and lively, with in a freshly scented, medium-2012 HHH1/2 vibrant lemon/apple flavours bodied style with a smooth,Light yellow, with gingery and a gentle splash of dryish finish. $22aromas and flavours. sweetness (24g/litre of residualMouthfilling, with good depth of sugar). “Mosel-style”, noted PINOT NOIRflavour, a touch of barrel-ferment one judge. $18complexity and a dryish finish. 5 TASTEDReady. $25 (A, UK) 2 AWARDED STAR RATINGS  A small class with typically light, Elephant Hill green-edged wines from 2012, Hieronymus 2011 HHHH Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of but the instant appeal of the Inky hued, Hawke’s Bay blend of excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. Sileni pinot noir in its infancy malbec (75 per cent) and merlot All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry promises well for the 2013s. (25 per cent). Generous, with the professionals and are compared in peer slightly “medicinal” notes typical classes by three judges. Osawa Prestige of malbec, ripe blackcurrant, CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, Collection Hawke’s Bay spice and plum flavours, rich a major mail-order business. Pinot Noir 2012 HHH tannins and good length. $34 CD Cellar door price. Flavoursome, plummy, spicy Crossroads CDO Cellar door only. red with a hint of “forest floor”, Winemakers Collection SO Sold out. plenty of toasty oak and some Hawke’s Bay Cabernet $N/A Price not available at time of printing. savoury complexity. $43 Franc 2010 HHH1/2  Contact information pg 144. Deeply coloured, with rich Sileni Cellar Selection blackcurrant, herb and plum RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). Hawke’s Bay Pinot Noir flavours, and supple tannins. For a complete list of what we tasted 2013 HHH Drinking well now. $40 (A, UK) please refer to www.winestate.com.au Bright ruby, buoyantly fruity red with soft, ripe, plummy110 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013 flavours and a hint of toasty oak. “Beaujolais-like”, wrote one judge, with plenty of drink- young charm. $20 (A, UK, US)

regional tastingVilla Maria Cellar Esk Valley Winemakers Mission Reserve Hawke’s Mills Reef Elspeth CabernetSelection Gimblett Gravels Reserve Merlot Bay Merlot 2012 HHH Merlot 2010 HHHHHGrenache 2011 HHH1/2 Malbec Cabernet Fresh, full-coloured red, brambly, Powerful, sweet-fruited,Youthful, full-coloured red with Sauvignon 2010 HHHH plummy and slightly peppery, smooth Gimblett Gravels redstrong, vibrant plum/pepper Still unfolding, this weighty, in a medium-bodied style with with deep, purple-flushedflavours, a slightly chewy dark, rich Gimblett Gravels good flavour depth. $29 colour. Highly concentrated,mid-palate and some savoury red was blended from merlot notably ripe blackcurrant, driedcomplexity. $32 (73 per cent), malbec (14 per Ngatarawa Alwyn Merlot herb and plum flavours in a cent) and cabernet sauvignon Cabernet 2009 HHH generous style with a long lifeMERLOT & BLENDS (13 per cent). Fleshy, plummy Fleshy blend from the Bridge ahead. $45 (A, UK) and spicy, with a ripe herbal Pa Triangle, with deep, slightly Villa Maria Reserve25 TASTED note, it is concentrated, very developed colour and strong, Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s14 AWARDED harmonious and smooth, with a leathery, herbal, nutty flavours. Bay Cabernet SauvignonMany of the merlots from lengthy finish. $60 One judge found it concentrated, Merlot 2010 HHHHH2011, a warm but wet growing Villa Maria Cellar firm and complex; another a bit Dense, youthful red, blendedseason, were green-edged, but Selection Hawke’s “dry and tough”. $75 from cabernet sauvignon (70the proven performers - such as Bay Merlot Cabernet per cent) and merlot (30% perVilla Maria/Vidal/Esk Valley and Sauvignon 2011 HHHH Te Awa Left Field Merlot cent), with deep, firm, bramblyChurch Road - showed what can Sturdy, generous blend (73 Malbec 2011 HHH flavours, finely poised andbe achieved. From the drier 2010 per cent merlot) with excellent Gutsy Gimblett Gravels red, full of potential. Best drinkingand 2009 vintages, the judges depth of ripe blackcurrant, plum densely coloured, with peppery, 2015+. Praised by one judgefound several wines that are still and spice flavours, savoury and slightly medicinal aromas and as “classic Bordeaux comeyouthful and maturing gracefully. supple. Fresh and sweet-fruited, plenty of plummy, spicy flavour, Hawke’s Bay”. $50 with good complexity. $24 fresh and firm. $20 Mills Reef Elspeth CabernetVilla Maria Reserve Villa Maria Reserve Sauvignon 2010 HHHH1/2Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s Merlot Cabernet The People’s Hawke’s Bay Bold, bright colour. Fragrant,Bay Merlot 2010 HHHHH Sauvignon 2007 HHHH Merlot 2011 HHH fresh, vibrantly fruity GimblettBursting with very ripe fruit, Surprisingly youthful, densely Medium-bodied, with Gravels red with strongthis densely coloured red is coloured Gimblett Gravels blend blackcurrant, plum and spice blackcurrant, olive, plumfleshy, finely textured and still (50/50) with mouthfilling body flavours, and hints of tomato and mint flavours, and fine-very youthful. Notably rich and deep, ripe blackcurrant, and herbs. Fresh and fruity, grained tannins. Good cellaringand refined, crammed with spice and plum flavours. Very in an easy-drinking style. potential. $45 (A, UK)blackcurrant and plum flavour, powerful and concentrated, (From Constellation NZ.) $22 Vidal Legacy Seriesit’s delicious now but should be but held back by slightly tough, Hawke’s Baylong-lived. $50 drying tannins. $50 Thornbury Hawke’s Bay Cabernet SauvignonChurch Road McDonald Esk Valley Merlot Merlot 2012 HHH Merlot 2010 HHHH1/2Series Hawke’s Bay Cabernet Sauvignon Purple-flushed, buoyantly Deeply coloured, with denseMerlot 2011 HHHH1/2 Malbec 2012 HHH1/2 fruity red, medium-bodied, blackcurrant, herb and plumRich, refined red, boldly Full-coloured Gimblett Gravels with satisfying depth of fresh flavours, and a firm, long finish.coloured, with sweet-fruit blend, merlot-based (54 per blackcurrant, plum and spice Slightly more herbal than thecharacters, deep, vibrant plum, cent), with fresh, strong plum flavours, and a smooth finish. Villa Maria (above), but currentlyprune and spice flavours, firm, and spice flavours and ripe, (From Villa Maria.) $21 more approachable. $60ripe tannins and a long finish. fairly firm tannins. “Good effort Church RoadWorth cellaring. $34 for the vintage,” noted one CABERNET McDonald SeriesMills Reef Elspeth judge. $24 SAUVIGNON Hawke’s Bay CabernetGimblett Gravels Pask Declaration & BLENDS Sauvignon 2011 HHHHMerlot 2009 HHHH Merlot 2009 HHH1/2 Boldly coloured, with strong,Drinking well now, this is a fleshy, Full, moderately youthful 12 TASTED vibrant blackcurrant, herbgenerous, supple red with full, colour. Very good depth of 9 AWARDED and plum flavours, still verybright colour and fresh, strong, plummy, slightly herbal and youthful, and a fragrant, spicyplummy, slightly spicy and nutty spicy flavours, with a strong Some pundits have argued bouquet. Excellent density,flavours. “Soft and cosy”, wrote cedary oak influence (all new). that the favourably dry 2010 structure and finesse. $34one judge. $45 (A, UK) Described by one judge as growing season, slightly cooler Pask Declaration Cabernet “weighty and rich, but slightly than 2009, favoured syrah Merlot Malbec 2009 HHHH over-made”. $50 (A, UK) more than cabernet sauvignon, Full, fairly youthful colour. Vidal Reserve Series but the judges found several Mouthfilling, with strong Merlot Cabernet distinguished 2010 cabernet- blackcurrant, herb, spice and Sauvignon 2011 HHH1/2 based reds, from Mills Reef plum flavours, and a strong Youthful, merlot-based blend and Villa Maria/Vidal. oak influence (18 months in (70 per cent) from the Gimblett new French oak barriques). Gravels. Mouthfilling, with Still unfolding. Best 2015+. very good depth of plum/spice $50 (A, UK) flavours. Savoury and slightly oaky (from a year in French barriques, 40 per cent new), with good complexity and a fairly firm finish. $23 November/December 2013 W I N E S TAT E 111

H AW K E S B AYTe Awa Hawke’s Bay Vidal Legacy Series Church Road Villa Maria ReserveCabernet Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon McDonald Series Hawke’s Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s2010 HHHH Merlot 2009 HHHH Bay Syrah 2010 HHHHH Bay Syrah 2010 HHHHHFull-coloured, youthful Deeply coloured, warm and Maturing well, with a long Supercharged style, withGimblett Gravels red with classy red with concentrated future ahead, this very dark, dense, youthful colour, a richlyvibrant blackcurrant, plum and blackcurrant, plum, spice and highly concentrated red is richly perfumed bouquet and lovelyspice flavours, showing good nut flavours. Structured, long fragrant, with black fruit, spice, depth of ripe blackcurrant,backbone and concentration. $40 and still developing. $60 cocoa and licorice aromas. plum and spice flavours. Very Dense and complex, with full-bodied but finely textured Babich The Patriarch fine-grained tannins and a long red, approachable now but 2011 HHH1/2 finish, it was praised by one built for the long haul. Cellaring Deeply coloured, mouthfilling judge as a “great wine”. $34 recommended. $60 and supple blend of cabernet Esk Valley Winemakers Vidal Legacy Series sauvignon (64 per cent), merlot Reserve Gimblett Gravels Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s and malbec. Blackcurrant, plum, Syrah 2010 HHHHH Bay Syrah 2010 HHHHH spice, herb and nut flavours, Very elegant and concentrated, Benchmark stuff. Notably rich showing good complexity. Still with purple/black colour and and ripe, it is boldly coloured, very youthful. $70 (A, UK) fresh, vibrant, ripe flavours of with dense plum, spice and dark fruits and spices. Sweet- nut flavours, showing excellent SYRAH fruit entry, with lovely harmony concentration and complexity, and length. $60 and a lasting finish. Top-rated by 33 TASTED all judges. $70 22 AWARDED Villa Maria Cellar Selection Hawke’s Bay The difficult 2012 vintage Syrah 2011 HHHH1/2 yielded a solid crop of fresh, Classy, supple red, deeply strongly varietal syrahs, and top coloured, with fresh, producers such as Villa Maria/ concentrated plum and black Vidal and Mills Reef succeeded pepper flavours, and ripe, fine- in 2011, but the most powerful grained tannins. Still youthful, and dense, potentially longest- with excellent depth and lived syrahs all flowed from 2010. drinkability. $32 Villa Maria Reserve Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2009 HHHH1/2 Still youthful. Boldly coloured, with a fragrant, ripe bouquet of spices, cocoa, prunes, herbs and chocolate, and impressively concentrated, plummy, slightly nutty flavours, silky-textured and long. $60 Villa Maria Reserve Coopers Creek Hawke’s Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2012 HHHH Bay Syrah 2011 HHHHH Deeply coloured, generous and Powerful, notably concentrated supple, with concentrated, ripe Gimblett Gravels red with inky, plum and spice flavours, fresh almost black colour. Fragrant, acidity and excellent texture with an array of ripe berry, cocoa, and harmony. Attractive wine, blackcurrant and spice aromas, priced sharply. $22 leading into a weighty, densely Crossroads Winemakers packed palate, tightly structured, Collection Hawke’s Bay layered and long. Still very Syrah 2010 HHHH youthful, it’s an obvious candidate Rich, dark and weighty, with a for long-term cellaring. $60 hint of herbs running through its very generous plum and spice flavours. Good tannin structure and ageability. $44 (A, UK) © Tourism New Zealand.112 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013

regional tastingMills Reef Elspeth Cypress Terraces Hawke’s Schott Zwiesel glassware importedSyrah 2011 HHHH Bay Syrah 2010 HHH1/2 exclusively by Australian Fine China.Lush, softly structured Gimblett Dark and supple, with For further information please contactGravels red with deep colour and blackcurrant, plum, herb and 1800 800 058.fragrant, ripe aromas of plum, spice flavours, showing veryspice, pepper and licorice. Sweet- good depth. Enjoyable now.fruited, with fresh, concentrated $42 (UK)flavours and a smooth, lingeringfinish. $45 (A, UK) Esk Valley Hawke’s BayVidal Legacy Series Syrah 2011 HHH1/2Gimblett Gravels Syrah Floral, middle-weight style,2009 HHHH with fresh, strong plum andPowerful, still youthful red with spice flavours, and ripe, supplebold, bright colour, a fragrant tannins. Moderately complexbouquet and fresh, concentrated red, drinking well now. $24blackcurrant, plum, herb andspice flavours. One judge scored Ngatarawa Stablesit five stars. $70 Reserve Hawke’s BayVidal Reserve Series Syrah 2012 HHH1/2Hawke’s Bay Medium-bodied style, fresh,Syrah 2011 HHHH spicy and savoury, with someGenerous, youthful red, deeply meaty notes and fairly firmcoloured. Medium to full- tannins. One judge found it abodied style, with excellent bit “rustic”, but another praiseddepth of ripe blackcurrant, plum its “interest and appeal”. $22and pepper flavours, and aspicy, fragrant bouquet. $30 Pask Declaration Hawke’sVidal Reserve Series Bay Syrah 2010 HHH1/2Hawke’s Bay Savoury, herby bouquet,Syrah 2010 HHHH leading into a full-coloured,Youthful, supple, Gimblett Gravels supple red with very goodred with deep, youthful colour depth of plum, herb and spiceand strong blackcurrant, herb flavours, showing some nuttyand plum flavours. Fragrant, with complexity. $50 (A, UK)good weight and length. $30Villa Maria Cellar Trinity Hill GimblettSelection Hawke’s Bay Gravels Hawke’s BaySyrah 2010 HHHH Syrah 2012 HHH1/2Still very youthful, fresh and Deeply coloured, with vibrantsupple, with bold colour and plum and black pepper flavours.vibrant blackcurrant and plum Floral and attractive, in a medium-flavours, showing excellent bodied style, with clear-cutdepth. Powerful, rich red, with varietal characters and moderategood complexity. $32 concentration. $35 (A, UK)Coopers Creek SV ChalkRidge Hawke’s Bay Syrah Trinity Hill Hawke’s Bay2012 HHH1/2 Syrah 2012 HHH1/2Elegant, full-coloured red with Fresh, medium-bodied, stronglyfresh, supple plum and black varietal red with plummy, spicy,pepper flavours, youthful vigour peppery flavours, showing goodand supple tannins. Strongly depth, and a well-rounded finish.varietal wine with great “Very good commercial wine,”drinkability. $30 noted one judge. $22 (A, UK) SWEET WHITES 1 TASTED 1 AWARDEDCypress Hawke’s Bay Vidal Legacy SeriesSyrah 2012 HHH1/2 Noble Semillon 2011Floral, with deep, purple- (375ml) HHHHHflushed colour and a fleshy,soft palate. Fruit-driven style HanTodhnedeyrieegddlabfrosuusitqoaurefotm,twhaseit.hWparepoirgicfheottys,sional.with good depth of plummy,distinctly peppery flavours and rich, complex palate in ana smooth finish. Enjoyable opulent, barrel-fermented style,young. $26 (UK) powerful, soft, luscious and lingering. “Sauternes-style”, noted one judge. $40 November/December 2013 W I N E S TAT E 113 WINESTATE FEB 2013.indd 1 30/1/13 11:53:13 AM

MICHAEL COOPER’SRECENT RELEASESLooking for an exceptional NZ sparkling? Deutz Bannock Brae Goldfields Esk Valley Hawke’s BayMarlborough Prestige Cuvee 2010 is hard to beat. The Central Otago Pinot Noir Pinot Gris 2013 HHHH1/2latest releases also include top-flight examples of pinot 2011 HHHH1/2 Finely scented, complexnoir from Martinborough, Waipara and Central Otago. Full-coloured Bannockburn bouquet, leading into a fleshy, red, scented and supple, mouthfilling wine with pear,Prices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. with generous cherry, plum lychee and spice flavours,Wines available in export markets are shown as and dried herb flavours, showing impressive delicacy(A) Australia, (UK) and (US). oak complexity and a solid and depth, and a finely foundation of tannin. Classic textured, sustained finish. regional style, with fresh acidity Hand-picked, partly barrel- and excellent density. Bottled fermented style, showing unfined and unfiltered. $32 (A) excellent potential. $24 Voss Reserve Deutz Marlborough Cuvee Greystone Waipara Valley Martinborough Pinot Noir Rosé 2008 HHHH1/2 Chardonnay 2012 HHHH1/2Deutz Marlborough 2011 HHHHH Pale pink, gently sweet wine, Powerful, lush style, estate-Prestige Cuvee Finely perfumed, “feminine” with strong strawberry/spice grown and barrel-fermented2010 HHHHH style, very fragrant, sweet-fruited flavours, a hint of oranges and with indigenous yeasts, withClassy stuff - very refined, and supple, from vines up to 24 good yeast autolysis. Crisp, 75 per cent of the blend alsoelegant and tight-knit. Lovely, years old on the Martinborough with excellent complexity and a given a softening malolacticvibrant, citrusy and slightly nutty Terraces. Youthful, warm and smooth, distinctly yeasty finish. fermentation. Pale yellow, withflavours, strong, fresh and yeasty, savoury, with ripe plum, cherry, Delicious now. $45 highly concentrated, peachythat float smoothly to a very spice and nut flavours that build Fairbourne Marlborough flavours, a hint of butterscotch,harmonious, lasting finish. $45 well across the palate, and good Sauvignon Blanc fresh acidity and loads ofPegasus Bay Prima Donna tannin support. Highly refined 2012 HHHH1/2 personality. Already drinkingPinot Noir 2010 HHHHH red, ageworthy but already Mouthfilling wine, showing real well. $34 (A)Set for a 10-year evolution, this delicious. $39 finesse. Hand-picked, with some Muddy Water Hare’sclassy, youthful Waipara red maturation in aged French oak, Breath Waipara Pinot Noiris based on the oldest vines ½ it is weighty and sweet-fruited, 2011 HHHH1/2and barrel-aged for 18 months. with deep, ripely herbaceous Still unfolding, this deeplyDeep and bright in colour, it Deutz Marlborough flavours, good complexity and a coloured, youthful red is ais very rich and supple, with Cuvee Blanc de Blancs lengthy finish. $35 (A, UK, US) single-vineyard wine, hand-dense, ripe cherry, plum and 2009 HHHH1/2 picked and matured for over aslight licorice flavours, fine- Powerful, citrusy, yeasty year in French oak barrels (40grained tannins, and a real aromas and flavours, in a bigger per cent new). Mouthfilling,sense of poise and power. Best style than past vintages. Bold, with concentrated, ripe cherry,drinking 2015+. $84 (A, UK, US) complex and concentrated on plum and spice flavours, it isRockburn Central Otago the palate, with some toasty savoury, nutty and complex,Pinot Noir 2012 HHHHH notes, lively acidity and a with excellent harmony. BestFinely scented, deeply coloured lingering, dryish finish. $45 drinking mid-2014+. $56regional blend, grown mostly Ostler Lakeside Vinesin the Cromwell Basin. Dense Waitaki Valley Pinot Grisyet supple, with concentrated 2012 HHHH1/2cherry, plum and spice flavours, Invitingly scented, medium styleintegrated oak and lovely from North Otago, with strongrichness and harmony. Should personality. Bright light lemon/be long-lived. $45 (A, UK, US) green, with vibrant, concentrated stonefruit flavours, hints of ginger and honey, appetising acidity and a fresh, finely poised finish. Drink now or cellar for several years. $29.90 (A, UK, US)114 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013

recent releasesPegasus Bay Merlot Tiki Single Vineyard Villa Maria Single Vineyard Black CottageCabernet 2010 HHHH1/2 Marlborough Sauvignon Ihumatao Chardonnay Marlborough SauvignonClassy, cool-climate Waipara Blanc 2013 HHHH1/2 2012 HHHH1/2 Blanc 2013 HHHHred, blended from merlot (50 Powerful, very youthful Highly complex, slightly smoky Good value wine, sourced fromper cent), cabernet sauvignon wine, weighty and dry, with bouquet. Tightly structured and the Wairau and Awatere valleys.(30 per cent) and lesser penetrating, ripe, sweet- very youthful, with fresh, intense, Vibrant and incisive, withamounts of cabernet franc and fruit flavours, finely poised peachy, citrusy, mealy flavours, fresh melon, lime and slightmalbec. Deep and youthful in and slightly minerally, and a nutty, savoury and long. Best passionfruit flavours, showingcolour, fleshy, rich and smooth, sustained finish. Likely to open drinking mid-2014+. (Estate- excellent ripeness, delicacy andwith concentrated blackcurrant, out really well during 2014. grown in south Auckland.) $37 depth. (From Two Rivers ofplum and herb flavours, silky- From The Terraces Vineyard, in Marlborough.) $18 (A, UK)textured and generous. A top the upper Wairau Valley. $25 (A)  Greenhough Hopeyear. Drink now or cellar. $29 Tohu Mugwi Reserve Vineyard Nelson PinotSeifried Winemakers Marlborough Sauvignon Aurum Mathilde Noir 2010 HHHHCollection Nelson Blanc 2012 HHHH1/2 Reserve Central Otago Savoury and sweet-fruited,Sauvignon Blanc Weighty, well-rounded wine, Pinot Noir 2011 HHHH single-vineyard red, showing2013 HHHH1/2 estate-grown in the upper Ruby hued, savoury and silky- some colour development.Fleshy, very ripe and rounded Awatere Valley and fermented textured red, estate-grown Finely textured, with cherry,style, with concentrated with indigenous yeasts in old at Lowburn and matured for plum, spice and nut flavours,tropical fruit flavours. barrels. Mouthfilling and creamy- 18 months in French oak (25 showing good complexity, freshMouthfilling body, with hints textured, it is sweet-fruited, with per cent new). Moderately acidity and balanced tannins.of peaches, pineapple and deep citrus fruit, passionfruit and concentrated cherry, spice and Drink now-2014. $43 (A, UK, US)passionfruit, fresh acidity and a lime flavours, finely integrated nut flavours, showing excellent Greenhough Hopesoftly textured finish. $30 (UK) oak, and excellent complexity complexity. Well worth Vineyard Nelson RieslingSeifried Winemakers and harmony. Drink now-2014. cellaring. $55 (A) 2012 HHHHCollection Sweet Agnes $30 (A, UK, US) Aurum (Lot 2) Extremely youthful wine,Nelson Riesling 2013 Two Rivers Convergence Central Otago certified organic, from mature(375ml) HHHH1/2 Marlborough Sauvignon Pinot Gris 2012 HHHH vines. Lifted, appley aromas,Light yellow, with rich citrus Blanc 2013 HHHH1/2 Drinking well now, this single- with good weight on the palatefruit and peach flavours, Finely crafted, very youthful vineyard Lowburn wine was and very delicate flavourssweet and faintly honeyed, blend of Awatere Valley and hand-picked, tank-fermented -lemony, appley and slightlyand good acid drive. Already Wairau Valley fruit. Good weight and lees-stirred. Mouthfilling, spicy. Poised and minerally, it’sdelicious, with lovely poise and vibrancy, with ripe, sweet- it is off-dry, with good crying out for more time; openand harmony. $30 (A, UK, US) fruit characters, rich grapefruit/ concentration of pear, lychee 2015+. $23 (A, UK, US) lime flavours, showing a touch and spice flavours, leesy notesStoneleigh Rapaura Series of complexity, and a long, adding richness, fresh acidity Martinborough VineyardMarlborough Chardonnay minerally finish. $25 (UK) and excellent harmony. (The Te Tera Sauvignon Blanc2012 HHHH1/2 Villa Maria Cellar designation “Lot 2” is in small 2013 HHHHElegant, single-vineyard wine. Selection Marlborough print on the back label.) $26 (A) Priced sharply, this hand-Cool-climate style, with deep, Pinot Gris 2013 HHHH1/2 Ballasalla Central Otago harvested wine is mouthfilling,grapefruit-like flavours, slightly Richly scented, with pure, Pinot Noir 2011 HHHH very fresh, crisp andpeachy and toasty, fresh acidity concentrated flavours of Floral bouquet, with savoury, lively. Sweet-fruited, withand very finely integrated oak. stonefruit and pears, hints spicy notes. Attractive, sweet- passionfruit and lime flavours,It’s already delicious; drink now of ginger and spice, gentle fruited and supple Bendigo dry and lingering, it’s a topor cellar. $31 sweetness and finely red, barrel-aged for 10 months buy. $18 (A, UK, US)The Elder Martinborough balanced acidity. Alsace-style, (25 per cent new), with cherry, Maude Mt Maude VineyardPinot Gris 2012 HHHH1/2 delicious from the start. plum and spice flavours, a hint East Block WanakaPowerful, tightly structured Best mid-2014+. $24 of herbs, good complexity and Riesling 2013 HHHHwine, hand-harvested at Te Villa Maria Reserve gentle tannins. Drink now- More expressive in its infancyMuna, tank-fermented and Barrique Fermented 2015. (The second label of than its dry stablemate (below),matured in a 50/50 split of Gisborne Chardonnay Folding Hill Vineyard.) $29.95 this is a vibrant, tangy Centraltanks and old French barriques. 2012 HHHH1/2 Bird Marlborough Otago wine, in a distinctlyStill a baby, with excellent Full-bodied, peachy, toasty Sauvignon Blanc medium style, with strongconcentration of vibrant citrus and concentrated, with ripe, 2012 HHHH lemon/lime flavours, showingfruit and pear flavours, subtle sweet-fruit flavours seasoned Fresh, lively, ripely herbaceous good delicacy and harmony.mealy and nutty notes adding with nutty oak (French, 37 per aromas lead into a full-bodied, Open mid-2014+. $25complexity, and a dry (3.5g/litre cent new), and excellent depth single-vineyard wine, grown atof residual sugar), minerally and complexity. Deliciously Rapaura and fermented in tanksfinish. Open mid-2014+. $45 harmonious wine, for drinking (mostly) and barrels. Attractive now or cellaring. $37 passionfruit, lime and green capsicum flavours, with a slightly leesy complexity and a smooth, lingering finish. $19.95 (A, US) November/December 2013 W I N E S TAT E 115

MICHAEL COOPERMuddy Water Waipara Obsidian Waiheke Island Spy Valley Marlborough Terrace Edge ClassicPinot Noir 2012 HHHH Chardonnay 2012 HHHH Pinot Noir 2012 HHHH Waipara Valley RieslingAlready enjoyable, this ruby- Mouthfilling and sweet-fruited, Deeply coloured red from 2012 HHHHhued red was hand-picked, with vibrant grapefruit, peach sites in the Southern Valleys, Priced sharply, this is a highlymatured in French oak barrels and lime flavours, buttery with a slightly “funky” attractive, medium-dry style(30 per cent new) and bottled and biscuity notes adding bouquet. Still a baby, with (12g/litre of residual sugar),unfined. Sweet-fruited and complexity, and good texture mouthfilling body, deep with strong, ripe, citrusy,finely textured, it is ripe and and harmony. Already drinking cherry, plum and slight herb slightly spicy flavours, goodsavoury, with integrated oak, well. (Formerly sold under the flavours, fresh acidity and freshness and vigour, and aand very good depth and Weeping Sands brand.) $29 good complexity. Open finely balanced, lengthy finish.harmony. Certified organic. $32 Obsidian Waiheke Island 2015+. $34 (A, UK, US) Drink now or cellar. $19.50Muddy Water Waipara Syrah 2012 HHHH Spy Valley Marlborough Terrace Edge WaiparaValley Sauvignon Blanc Floral, distinctly peppery bouquet. Sauvignon Blanc Valley Syrah 2012 HHHH2012 HHHH A wine of substance, with deep, 2013 HHHH Fragrant, rich and suppleStarting to show some vibrant plum and black pepper Tight, crisp, very youthful wine, Waipara red, grown on amature, bottle-aged notes, flavours, good tannin support, grown in the Wairau Valley and “45-degree north facingthis single-vineyard wine was fresh acidity and a long, distinctly made with “a portion” of barrel ‘roasted slope’.” Full-coloured,90 per cent fermented with spicy finish. Drink now or fermentation. Light lemon/green, with concentrated plum, blackindigenous yeasts in old French cellar. (Formerly sold under the with ripe, sweet-fruit characters pepper and slight tamarillooak barriques. Tight, dry, Weeping Sands brand.) $32 and vibrant passionfruit/lime flavours, oak complexity (Frenchminerally and nutty, with melon flavours, showing good intensity. barriques, 25 per cent new,and green capsicum flavours Stoneleigh Rapaura Series Best 2014+. $20 (A, UK, US) for over a year), and a long,showing good complexity, Marlborough Pinot Gris Seifried Nelson harmonious, spicy finish. Stillit’s a finely textured wine, for 2012 HHHH Riesling 2013 HHHH youthful; open mid-2014+. $27drinking now-2014. $21 Mouthfilling, vibrantly fruity, Delicious from the start. Tohu Rore ReserveMaude Central Otago single-vineyard wine, still Pale yellow, full-bodied and Marlborough Pinot NoirPinot Gris 2013 HHHH youthful, with strong, citrusy, generous wine, with a gentle 2012 HHHHComplex, youthful wine, grown slightly spicy and gingery splash of sweetness, hints of Based on “the very bestat four sites - including Mount flavours, gentle sweetness and ginger and spice, and strong, twelve barrels”, this youthful,Maude Vineyard at Wanaka - lively acidity. Best drinking mid- ripe, citrusy, peachy flavours, bright ruby Awatere Valleyand fermented in tanks (60 per 2014 onwards. $31 very finely balanced for wide red is mouthfilling, warm andcent) and seasoned oak barrels appeal. $20 (UK, US) supple, with an array of cherry,(40 per cent). Fresh and crisp, Stoneleigh Marlborough Seifried Winemakers plum, spice, dried herb and nutwith strong, peachy, spicy Pinot Gris 2013 HHHH Collection Barrique flavours. Savoury and complex,flavours, a gentle twist of oak Fresh and full-bodied, with Fermented Nelson with good tannin support, it’sand a dry finish. Shows good strong citrus fruit, lychee and Chardonnay 2012 HHHH well worth cellaring to 2015+.potential; best drinking mid pear flavours, hints of ginger “Full-on” style, with substantial $39 (A, UK, US)2014+. $24 (A, UK, US) and spice, good delicacy body, rich, peachy, toasty andNevis Bluff Reserve and an off-dry, crisp finish. nutty flavours, and a creamy Two Tails MarlboroughCentral Otago Pinot Noir Instantly appealing wine, still texture. Deliciously weighty Sauvignon Blanc2008 HHHH unfolding. $26 and concentrated, with 2012 HHHHGenerous, mellow red with full, Spy Valley Marlborough exuberant use of oak. Drink Racy, intensely varietal wine,developed colour. Mouthfilling Chardonnay 2012 HHHH now-2014. $30 (UK) grown in the Southern Valleysand savoury, with strong Elegant, youthful wine, hand- Seifried Winemakers and partly hand-picked.cherry, plum, spice and dried picked and barrel-fermented. Collection Nelson The bouquet is freshlyherb flavours, seasoned with Fresh, peachy, citrusy flavours, Gewurztraminer herbaceous; the palatenutty oak (French, 33 per cent slightly buttery and toasty, with 2013 HHHH mouthfilling, vibrant and tangy,new, for 18 months), and good lively acidity and very good Exotically perfumed, with melon/lime flavours,tannin support. Drinking very depth and drive through the mouthfilling wine, with a strong showing good intensity, and awell now, it’s probably at its palate. Best mid-2014+. $23 (A) surge of spicy, gingery flavours fully dry finish. (From Fairbournepeak. $85 (A) and a medium-dry finish. Rich, Estate.) $22 (A, UK, US)Obsidian Waiheke Island intensely varietal and already Tiki Estate MarlboroughCabernet Merlot very expressive, inviting early Sauvignon Blanc2009 HHHH consumption. $30 (UK) 2013 HHHHAttractively mature blend Thornbury Marlborough Fresh, very vibrant andof cabernet sauvignon (45 Sauvignon Blanc punchy, with ripe, tropicalper cent) and merlot (42 per 2013 HHHH fruit flavours to the fore andcent), with splashes of petit Distinctly “tropical fruit” style, a herbal undercurrent. Finelyverdot, cabernet franc and fleshy and sweet-fruited, with balanced wine, with goodmalbec. Full-coloured, with vibrant, ripe passionfruit/lime vigour and richness, alreadysome development showing, flavours, showing very good drinking well. $20 (A, UK)mouthfilling body, generous delicacy and depth, lively acidityblackcurrant, spice, herb and and a well-rounded finish.nut flavours, and good tannin Already drinking well. $21backbone. Drink now-2015.(Formerly sold under theWeeping Sands brand.) $27116 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013

recent releasesVilla Maria Cellar Black Cottage Hawkshead Central Otago Soljans MarlboroughSelection Marlborough Marlborough Pinot Gris Pinot Noir 2011 HHH1/2 Riesling 2013 HHH1/2Chardonnay 2012 HHHH 2013 HHH1/2 Full-coloured, regional blend, Fresh, light, medium style withFruit-driven style, mouthfilling and Full-bodied, with fresh pear and with very good depth of citrusy, slightly peachy and spicyvibrant, with fresh, concentrated, spice aromas. Clearly varietal cherryish, slightly herbal flavours flavours. Lively and juicy, withcitrusy, slightly mealy flavours. wine, with hints of lychees, and a hint of olives. Savoury good sugar/acid balance and lotsTightly structured, elegant wine, peaches and apricots, plenty and supple, with oak complexity of drink-young charm. $19still youthful; best opened mid- of flavour and a crisp, dry (French, 40 per cent new) and Spy Valley2014+. $24 finish. (From Two Rivers of gentle tannins. $36 (A, UK, US) Marlborough Pinot NoirVilla Maria Private Marlborough.) $18 (A, UK) Hawkshead First Vines Rosé 2013 HHH1/2Bin Early Release Black Cottage Marlborough Central Otago Pinot Noir Pale pink, full-bodied wine,Marlborough Sauvignon Rosé 2013 HHH1/2 2011 HHH1/2 made with “subtle oakBlanc 2013 HHHH Pale pink, very easy-drinking Estate-grown at Gibbston, influences”. Fresh strawberry,Opening out well, this “early blend of pinot gris (principally) hand-harvested from the oldest peach and spice flavours,release” bottling accounts for and pinot noir. Mouthfilling and vines and matured in French showing a touch of complexity,20 per cent of the total output smooth, with peachy, slightly oak casks (40 per cent new), and a dry finish. A good “food”under the Private Bin label. strawberryish flavours, fresh this is a full-coloured, generous, wine. $23 (UK, US)Mouthfilling, it has incisive acidity, and very good delicacy vibrantly fruity red, with plum Stoneleigh Latitudemelon, passionfruit and lime and depth. (From Two Rivers of and cherry flavours, hints of Marlborough Chardonnayflavours, cut with fresh acidity, Marlborough.) $18 (A, UK) tamarillo and herbs, and a silky- 2012 HHH1/2and a lingering finish. Lots of Brancott Estate smooth finish. $46 (A, UK, US) Full-bodied, moderatelyyouthful impact. $22 Marlborough Maude Mt Maude complex style with ripe, citrusy, Gewurztraminer Vineyard Wanaka Dry peachy flavours, a gentle½ 2012 HHH1/2 Riesling 2013 HHH1/2 seasoning of toasty oak and Gently perfumed, full-bodied Crying out for more time, this very good depth. $28Aronui Single Vineyard wine with fresh pear and medium-bodied wine was Stoneleigh LatitudeNelson Chardonnay lychee flavours, hints of spices hand-picked from vines planted Marlborough Pinot Gris2012 HHH1/2 and ginger, and a slightly in 1994. Fresh and dryish, with 2012 HHH1/2Pale gold, barrel-fermented sweet, rounded finish. Easy- crisp, citrusy, appley, limey Full-bodied, ripe wine withwine with strong, buttery, drinking style, unfolding well flavours, slightly spicy and strong, peachy, slightly gingerybiscuity aromas and flavours. and still youthful. $27 leesy, it’s still a baby; open and honeyed flavours, a sliverVery upfront style, peachy and Burnt Spur Martinborough 2015+. $25 (A) of sweetness and fresh acidity.slightly gingery, with drink- Pinot Gris 2013 HHH1/2 Muddy Water Waipara Ready; no rush. $28young appeal - especially if you Freshly scented, full-bodied, Pinotage 2012 HHH1/2 Stoneleigh Marlboroughlike big, oaky chardonnay. (From single-vineyard wine. Cool- Deeply coloured, sturdy red with Chardonnay 2012 HHH1/2Kono, owner of Tohu.) $25 climate style, with very good strong berry and plum flavours, Vibrant, finely balanced wine,Aurum Central Otago depth of pear, lychee, apple and a hint of herbs, and fresh acidity. with grapefruit-like flavours, aPinot Noir 2011 HHH1/2 spice flavours, slightly sweet Barrel-aged for 14 months, it subtle oak seasoning and veryRuby hued, full-bodied red and crisp. (From Martinborough is moderately complex, in a good depth and drinkability.(14.5 per cent alc/vol), fresh, Vineyard.) $22 (A, UK, US) vibrantly fruity style with easy Best drinking mid-2014+. $26youthful and supple, with dried Eradus Awatere Valley tannins. Certified organic. $27 Stoneleigh Marlboroughherb notes and good depth of Pinot Gris 2013 HHH1/2 Ohau Gravels Merlot 2012 HHH1/2moderately complex, slightly Mouthfilling, single-vineyard Pinot Gris 2012 HHH1/2 Full-coloured, fruity andnutty flavours. $35 (A) wine with plenty of fresh, Grown on the west coast, north smooth, with some densityBird Big Barrel peachy, slightly spicy and of Wellington, this is a pale of blackcurrant, plum andMarlborough Pinot Noir gingery flavour, and a dryish, gold wine, weighty, fleshy and herb flavours, seasoned with2012 HHH1/2 crisp finish. Best drinking mid- slightly honeyed, with fresh nutty oak. Vibrant, supple red,Floral, supple red, fermented 2014+. $18 (A, UK, US) acidity and strong, peachy, approachable now but welland matured in 900-litre barrels. Esk Valley Marlborough slightly buttery and toasty worth cellaring. $27Bright ruby, with fresh, ripe berry Pinot Noir 2012 HHH1/2 flavours. Drink now-2014. $24 Stoneleighand plum flavours, subtle savoury Full ruby, with some savoury Seifried Nelson Marlborough Pinot Noirnotes adding complexity, gentle notes and very good depth of Chardonnay 2012 HHH1/2 Rosé 2013 HHH1/2tannins and lots of drink-young cherry, plum and spice flavours. Drinking well now, this Vivacious, pink/pale red rosé,appeal. $29.95 (A, US) Generous and sweet-fruited, mouthfilling, citrusy wine shows medium-bodied, with veryBird Marlborough with moderate complexity very good balance of fruit good depth of red berry, plumPinot Gris 2012 HHH1/2 and gentle tannins. Delicious and oak. Slightly buttery, with and spice flavours, woven withAttractively scented wine, young. $32 fresh acidity and considerable fresh acidity. Well balanced forgrown at Rapaura. Still Greenhough Nelson complexity, it’s a full-flavoured easy drinking, with a smooth,youthful, with vibrant, peachy, Pinot Noir 2011 HHH1/2 wine, priced right. $20 (UK) off-dry finish. $26slightly citrusy and spicy Ruby hued, mouthfilling and Soljans Kumeuflavours, fresh acidity and savoury blend of grapes grown Pinot Gris 2013 HHH1/2a smooth, slightly off-dry, at Hope and Upper Moutere. Vibrantly fruity, easy-drinkinglingering finish. $19.95 (A, US) Strongly varietal red, with West Auckland wine, fragrant, satisfying depth of cherry, spice fresh and smooth. Medium and dried herb flavours, showing to full-bodied, with a sliver of good complexity. $27 (A, UK, US) sweetness, gentle acidity and very good depth of ripe peach, pear and spice flavours. $19 November/December 2013 W I N E S TAT E 117

MICHAEL COOPERThistle Ridge Waipara Villa Maria Mount Brown Soljans GisbornePinot Noir 2012 HHH1/2 Private Bin Gisborne Waipara Valley Rosé 2013 HHHAttractive, fruit-driven style, Viognier 2013 HHH1/2 Pinot Gris 2012 HHH Bright pink, gently sweet blendpartly barrel-aged. Ruby hued, Fleshy, dry and smooth, Citrusy, slightly sweet style of merlot, gewurztraminer andsubstantial red, with satisfying with mouthfilling body and with fresh acidity, hints of muscat. Buoyantly fruity wine,depth of plum, spice and generous, ripe, peachy, slightly peaches and ginger, and plenty medium-bodied, with lively,dried herb flavours, braced by buttery flavours. Sweet-fruited, of flavour. Full-bodied wine, berryish flavours, fresh aciditymoderately firm tannins. Drink with a slightly oily texture and probably at its best now to and an easy-drinking balance. $17now-2015. (From Greystone.) $22 lots of drink-young charm. $22 2014. Priced sharply. $14 (UK) Soljans MarlboroughTohu Awatere Valley Villa Maria Private Bin Ohau Gravels Sauvignon Sauvignon Blanc 2013 HHHMarlborough Pinot Gris Marlborough Pinot Noir Blanc 2012 HHH Mouthfilling, fresh and crisp,2013 HHH1/2 2012 HHH1/2 From the west coast of the ripely herbaceous style withStill extremely youthful, this Fruit-driven style, ruby hued, lower North Island, this is a melon, capsicum and limeis a pale, full-bodied wine, with mouthfilling body and mouthfilling, ripely herbaceous flavours, showing good depth.with vibrant, citrusy, slightly strong cherry and plum wine, with a touch of Drink this summer. $19spicy flavour, showing very flavours. Sweet-fruited, with a complexity from 5 per cent Stoneleigh Marlboroughgood delicacy and freshness, very subtle oak influence, fresh barrel fermentation, some Pinot Noir 2012 HHHand a dryish (6g/litre of acidity, hints of spices and nuts developed, “green pea” notes Ruby hued, full-bodied andresidual sugar) finish. Open and a finely textured finish. $26 emerging, good depth and a smooth, in a moderatelymid-2014+. $22 (A, US) smooth finish. Ready. $23 complex style, with freshTohu Single Vineyard  Old Coach Road Nelson cherry, plum, herb and spiceMarlborough Pinot Noir Chardonnay 2012 HHH flavours. Best drinking mid-2012 HHH1/2 Brancott Estate Flight High impact style, full-bodied, 2014 onwards. $27Finely textured, ruby hued Waipara Riesling 2013 HHH with generous, peachy, toasty, Te Awa Left Field Hawke’sAwatere Valley red with strong Attractive, low alcohol style (9 slightly buttery and honeyed Bay Syrah 2012 HHHcherry/plum flavours. Vibrantly per cent) with greater depth and flavours. Enjoyable now. (From Medium-bodied, with fresh,fruity, with gentle tannins and interest than most. Scented, Seifried.) $17 (UK, US) strong, peppery aromas and asome savoury complexity. with plenty of fresh, lemony, Old Coach Road Nelson vibrantly fruity palate, wovenDrink-young appeal, but also appley, limey flavour and gentle Riesling 2013 HHH with lively acidity. Smooth,ageworthy. $28 sweetness. Clearly varietal, with Easy-drinking style, medium- easy drinking, with a pinot noir-Tohu Gisborne drink-young charm. $27 bodied, with fresh, citrusy, ish appeal. $20Chardonnay 2012 HHH1/2 Brancott Estate Living slightly peachy flavours, Te Awa Left FieldA fruit-driven style, with a gentle Land Series Marlborough gentle sweetness and lively Marlborough Sauvignonseasoning of oak, this wine was Pinot Noir 2012 HHH acidity. Enjoyable young. (From Blanc 2013 HHHpartly barrel-fermented. It has Certified organic, this is a ruby Seifried.) $17 (A, UK) Balanced for easy drinking,fresh, lemony, slightly appley hued, mouthfilling red with Rockburn Central Otago this is a full-bodied, fresh andflavours to the fore, with biscuity, moderately concentrated cherry, Pinot Gris 2013 HHH smooth wine, with ripe, citrusy,leesy notes adding a touch of plum, spice and herb flavours, Pale, full-bodied wine, with appley, gently herbaceouscomplexity and excellent balance showing some savoury, nutty lemony, appley, slightly flavours. $17for early drinking. $22 (UK, US) complexity, and a firm finish. gingery flavours, woven with Thornbury WaiparaVidal White Series Best drinking mid-2014+. $29 fresh, crisp acidity, a splash of Pinot Gris 2013 HHHEarly Release Coopers Creek sweetness and good depth. Mouthfilling, with good depthMarlborough Sauvignon Marlborough Pinot Noir It’s still very youthful; open of vibrant pear, lychee andBlanc 2013 HHH1/2 2011 HHH 2014+. $26 (A, UK, US) spice flavours, hints of applesRipely scented blend of Wairau Ruby hued, light and smooth Seifried Nelson and ginger, and a crisp, slightlyValley and Awatere Valley style with fresh cherry, spice Pinot Noir 2012 HHH sweet finish. $21grapes. Smooth and balanced and dried herb flavours and Bright ruby, with mouthfilling Toi Toi Marlboroughfor easy drinking, with vibrant gentle tannins. Very easy to body. Sweet-fruited and Sauvignon Blanc 2013 HHHmelon, passionfruit and lime enjoy and priced right. $19 supple, with cherry/plum Full-bodied, ripely herbaceousflavours, fresh acidity and very Martinborough flavours, showing some regional blend, fresh and lively,good depth. $21 Vineyard Te Tera savoury, nutty complexity. Still with tropical fruit flavours and aVilla Maria Private Bin Pinot Noir 2012 HHH youthful. $20 (UK, US) dryish, crisp finish. $17 (A, UK)East Coast Pinot Gris Bright ruby, buoyantly fruity Seifried Nelson Woven Stone Ohau2013 HHH1/2 red. Not complex but enjoyable Syrah 2012 HHH Pinot Gris 2012 HHHRipely scented, mouthfilling in its youth, with berry, plum, Distinctly cool-climate style, Pale yellow, slightly honeyedand smooth, with fresh peach, herb and tamarillo flavours, deep ruby, mouthfilling, wine, grown on the west coastpear and lychee flavours, gentle woven with fresh acidity, a very vibrantly fruity and smooth. of the lower North Island.sweetness and lively acidity. restrained oak influence and Satisfying depth of plum/spice Mouthfilling, peachy andVibrantly fruity wine, with very gentle tannins. $32 (A, UK, US) flavours, with hints of black slightly sweet, with a hint ofgood depth, balanced for easy Mount Brown Waipara pepper, tamarillo and herbs, and botrytis and plenty of flavour.drinking. $22 Valley Riesling 2012 HHH a gentle seasoning of toasty Drink now-2014. $19 Full-bodied, medium-dry style, oak. Best mid-2014+. $20 citrusy and slightly honeyed, with plenty of flavour and toasty notes showing early development. Drink now-2014. Fine value. $14 (UK)118 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013

insiderthe wine & spiritAUSTRALIAN & NEW ZEALANDNovember/December 2013 Issue 132 COMPLIMENTARY COPYin this issueNew ReleasesandTOP 40best wine buysu n d e r $20THE WINE & SPIRIT INSIDER IS APROMOTIONAL GUIDE FROM THELIQUOR TRADE TO THE CONSUMER.Winestate PublishingABN 56 088 226 411

323 TASTED177 AWARDEDNEW RELEASESStrange to see the alternative varieties excel in this new release Berton Vineyards Jericho Adelaideline-up. As expected, the shiraz class stood up to scrutiny (except Pewter Label Hills Fume Blancthe 2011s which is another topic in itself), but the pleasing fact is South Eastern 2013 HHHthat the Mediterranean varieties of tempranillo, fiano, sangiovese Australia Vermentino Light simple nose,and montepulciano also performed well, along with the lesser 2013 HHH1/2 with subtle smokinessFrench varieties of marsanne and durif. Remember how the much Fresh and grassy nose and precise, high acid,maligned Japanese Datsuns evolved from the early years into the and nicely textured citrussy palate. $25super slick Nissans? That’s the path we are now on with these palate with fruit saladinteresting “alternative varietals!”. flavours. Good food Trentham La Famiglia wine. $12.99 Australia VermentinoSPARKLING Deviation Road Tahbilk 1927 Vines Three Ponds 2013 HHH Loftia Adelaide Hills Australia Marsanne Hunter Valley Fiano Florals on the nose -10 TASTED Vintage Brut 2004 HHHHH 2013 HHH1/2 lemon and talc.6 AWARDED 2011 HHH “An amazing wine,” Fruit salad-like aromas A fresh, clean, flinty wine. Lovely complex, leesy, declared one judge. with dairy notes and Texture and length with aLots of quality quaffers yeasty nose and tight Beautifully complex, gentle pear/citrus flavours. touch of minerality. $15here that are more fresh fresh palate. Aperitif toasty, tropical fruit Good acidity. $22.95and lively than complex. style. $34 aromas and very SAUVIGNON pleasant palate still has Jericho Adelaide Hills BLANCHand Crafted by Sidewood Estate lovely freshness, with Fiano 2013 HHH1/2Geoff Hardy South Isabella Rose high level of acid. Years Restrained tropical fruit 26 TASTEDAustralia Sparkling Adelaide Hills to go yet! $40.45 nose and full-bodied 10 AWARDEDRed NV HHH1/2 Sparkling Pinot Hand Crafted palate showing “someA complexity of oak, Chardonnay by Geoff Hardy clever winemaking”. $25 A tough class eitheryeast and age on the 2011 HHH Adelaide Hills Fiano Spring Vale showing little varietalnose and stylish, plush, Lifted pinot characters 2013 HHHH1/2 Freycinet Coast character or unbalancedfruit palate; hint of on the nose and fruity Exotic aromas – excellent Gewurztraminer acidity. The bettersweetness. $25 style of palate. Nice varietal expression of 2013 HHH1/2 wines, however, quaffer. $35 cumquat/tropical fruit Lifted rose petal offered nice quaffingDeviation Road characters and big stylish aromatics with musky opportunities.Altair Adelaide Hills OTHER WHITE citrus and guava flavours notes. Balanced TurkishSparkling Rosé VARIETALS on a complex, textured Delight palate. Good Nepenthe AltitudeNV HHH & BLENDS palate. $25 acid spine. $28 Adelaide SauvignonSmells of summer fruits, Tahbilk Nagambie Blanc 2013 HHHHwith nice floral touches 13 TASTED Lakes Marsanne Restrained nose –and a precise, elegant 10 AWARDED 2013 HHHH some capsicum, peaspalate. $28 Shy nose – and grassiness. Good “A terrific line-up of some honeysuckle palate, with delicatePeter Lehmann alternative varieties,” fragrances. Soft and spicy fruit drive and acidPrincess Barossa said one judge. flavoursome in the spine. $19.99Valley Sparkling “You can see the mouth. Excellent exampleMoscato 2013 HHH quality jumping up as of the variety. $14.35 Brygon ReserveIntense musky bouquet winemakers understand Hand Crafted Regional Seriesand pleasant Turkish the varietals involved.” by Geoff Hardy Adelaide HillsDelight-like palate. True Why go overseas when Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blancto style. $18 you can get the foreign Gruner Veltliner 2013 HHH1/2 experience at home! 2013 HHHH A clean, fresh styleRosenvale Estate Lifted spicy/herbal summed up as “elegant”Barossa Valley bouquet and light by one judge. HerbaceousSparkling Semillon peach/guava palate, notes with mouth-2012 HHH with some pleasant watering acidity. $22.50Lifted musky perfumed phenolics in keepingaromas and citrus-driven with the style. $25palate, with clean acidline. $24120 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingBerton Vineyards Brygon ReservePewter Label South The Big EasyEastern Australia Margaret RiverSauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc2013 HHH1/2 2012 HHHGood citrus aromas, A delicate example withwith a perfumed lift and hints of lemongrass,elegant, angular palate, grapefruit and citrus.with mouth watering Well balanced and goodacidity. $12.99 length. $17.99McGuigan SAUVIGNONExpressions BLANCAdelaide Sauvignon BLENDSBlanc 2013 HHHA lean, austere, citrus- 6 TASTEDdriven style, with slightlygrassy/capsicum-like 4 AWARDEDcharacters. $15.99Ross Hill Jessica A better option here& Lily Orange with the semillonSauvignon Blanc adding complexity and2013 HHH character.Light citrus bouquetand slight astringent Swings &'Bickfords' lime cordial- Roundaboutslike flavours. $20 Margaret RiverLake Chalice Sauvignon BlancMarlborough SemillonSauvignon Blanc 2013 HHH1/22013 HHH A light, elegant andLight lifted herbaceous/ very more-ish wine.pungent aromas and Interesting rubydelicate but distinctive grapefruit and hibiscus-varietal flavours. $21 like characters. $22Sileni Cellar Greedy SheepSelection Margaret RiverMarlborough Sauvignon BlancSauvignon Blanc Semillon 2013 HHH2013 HHH An elegant, citrus-Aged herbaceous nose driven wine, with aand powerful varietal hint of oak and niceflavours, with gentle perfumed/floral lift. $20acidity. $20 Yarran AustraliaWilloughby Park Sauvignon BlancGreat Southern Semillon 2013 HHHSauvignon Blanc Good quaffer. Light2012 HHH herbaceous fruit saladFruity tropical fragrances characters and flinty/and an almost leesy spicy notes. $12palate that’s complex Clairault Margaretand balanced. $22 River SauvignonButler Crest Blanc SemillonMargaret River 2013 HHHSauvignon Blanc Sweet, grassy and floral,2012 HHH with good fruit drive,Good “fume” style excellent texture andloaded with toasty plenty of length. $22oak and citrus fruitcharacters. $26.99 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 121

NEW RELEASESPINOT GRIS/ Eldredge Clare Valley VIOGNIER/ Ballandean Estate Brygon Reserve BinGRIGIO Riesling 2013 HHHHH VERDELHO Wines Granite Belt 828 Margaret River Excellent green colour, & BLENDS Semillon Sauvignon Semillon Sauvignon7 TASTED with lovely bath salt, Blanc 2013 HHHH Blanc 2012 HHH1/23 AWARDED citrus and fruit tingles 10 TASTED Pure grassy varietal Pale straw colour with aroma. Lovely fresh, 3 AWARDED nose, with a richer, hints of lemon andA diverse range, with crisp, citrus flavours on tropical fruit palate that honeysuckle on thethe best handled wines the tight, lively palate, “All over the shop,” has great mouthfeel and nose. A tight, lean stylecoming up trumps. with its delicate fragrant commented one judge. plenty of length. $18 on the palate, with crisp, elements. $18 “A complete diverse Cock + Bull South clean acidity. $17.99Rolling Central Taylors Clare Valley range.” A few worthies. Australia Semillon The AlchemistsRanges Pinot Grigio Riesling 2013 HHHH Sauvignon Blanc Reserve Margaret2013 HHH A very light, elegant and Berton Vineyards 2012 HHHH River SemillonRipe pear nectar nose spicy riesling, with an Pewter Label South Grassy semillon fruit- Sauvignon Blancand light and stylish aromatic bouquet and a Eastern Australia dominated nose, with 2013 HHHpalate, with a floral/olive- soft, gentle, apple-like Viognier 2013 HHHH excellent spicy flavours, Fresh, elegant, spicylike complexity. $18.99 fruit palate. $19 Great honeysuckle and great acidity and some bouquet and light, Kalgan River pear bouquet, and a alcohol warmth. $6.90 simple, grassy/broadJohnston Wines Ironrock Great lovely mouthful of apricot bean-like flavours. $25Adelaide Hills Pinot Southern Riesling flavours with a toffee Peter LehmannGris 2013 HHH 2012 HHHH apple touch. $12.99 Classic Barossa Oakover WinesSmells of musky pears, Glowing green colour, Valley Semillon White Label Swanwith lively acidity on the subtle varietal aromas Shingleback John 2011 HHH1/2 Valley Semillonripe pear/apple palate. $18 and a fresh, lively palate, Foolery McLaren Reserved, toasty, Sauvignon Blanc with lime-like flavours Vale Viognier honeyed aromas and 2012 HHHBrygon Reserve shining through. $35 2013 HHH1/2 well-structured palate. Developing toasty,Regional Series Crabtree Watervale Exotic fruit intensity to Will develop well over honeyed, agedYarra Valley Pinot Riesling 2013 HHH1/2 the nose and big, hot, the next five-seven characters mix with theGris 2012 HHH Reserved citrus nose guava-like palate that years! $15 tropical fruit. $11.99Good expression of with a touch of apricot, has nice texture andthe variety - “textural, but it has big, fleshy, balance. $18.95vibrant and intriguing,” lime/citrus flavours. $26said one judge. Decent Kalgan River Great Heritage Estatepalate weight, with Southern Riesling Granite Beltgentle acidity. $22.50 2012 HHH1/2 Verdelho 2013 HHH Developing some kero Big oaky nose andRIESLING age characters on the lovely balanced oak- nose. Nice palate; good driven palate, with good9 TASTED citrus fruit presence. $25 savoury length. $257 AWARDED Crabtree Hilltop Vineyard Watervale SEMILLONA strong class of Riesling 2013 HHH & BLENDStrue varietal rieslings Lovely citrus eleganceshowing purity of fruit here. Some lime on the 15 TASTEDand balance. “Complete nose and a touch of 10 AWARDEDwines,” said one judge. tropics on the palate. $22 Mr Rigg's Watervale The judges thought this Riesling 2013 HHH a consistent class of A tightly wound wine, fresh drinking quaffers. with a stylish nose and an elegant, flavoursome palate. $22JUDGES Stephen John Adam Jarvis Ulrich Grey-Smith DAY 1 & 2) Editor & Writer and Coonawarra based freelance Owner/winemaker of on Dan Murphy’s Fine winemaker consultant. Stephen John Wines. Wine Panel. Decades Formerly winemaker for More than 30 years’ of Hospitality & Liquor Padthaway Estate. Four winemaking experience. Retail Experience. years at BRL Hardy and De Has judged at Adelaide, Bortoli respectively, with National, and Barossa wine time also spent in Germany shows. Regular Winestate and Canada. Associate panellist and chairman of judge at various regional judges at the Winestate wine shows. Wine of the Year Awards.122 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingChurchview Night Harvest Bird in Hand Two in Shingleback Kiss Me Robert Stein ReserveSilverleaf Margaret Margaret River the Bush Adelaide Kate McLaren Vale Mudgee ChardonnayRiver Semillon Semillon Sauvignon Hills Chardonnay Chardonnay 2012 HHHSauvignon Blanc Blanc 2012 HHH 2012 HHHH 2013 HHH Smoky “oyster shell”-2013 HHH Soft, tropical fruit pastille Varietal fruit aromas, Nice quaffer, with lovely like aromas and classyPungent tropical nose aromas and flavoursome with toasty barrel soft ripe varietal fruit and palate, with great flavourand a light, elegant palate showing great ferment elements some fresh oak. $18.95 persistence. $40palate, with punchy fruit life. $15.99 adding complexity. Soft Sandalford Rangeflavours. $13 citrus/melon palate, with Margaret River The Puppeteer South CHARDONNAY creamy length. $25 Chardonnay Australia ChardonnayHowling Wolves Penfolds Bin 311 2013 HHH 2011 HHHMargaret River 34 TASTED Tumbarumba All complex and yeasty A complex combinationSemillon Sauvignon 19 AWARDED Chardonnay on the nose, and of seasoned oak withBlanc 2012 HHH 2012 HHH1/2 tasting of melons and fleshy tropical fruitSubtle toasty fruit A solid class, with no Attractive savoury/ cashews. $18.99 underneath. $14.90aromas. Nicely great faults but too smoky bouquet, with a Blue Pyreneesstructured, oily palate; many simple wines. pleasant, interesting and Australia Chardonnay Mt Moriac Estatetastes of quinces and The best wines showed delicate savoury palate. 2012 HHH Geelong Chardonnayapples. $14.99 complexity, structure Lots of acid. $39.99 Nice quaffer, with 2011 HHHBrygon Reserve and focus. Night Harvest attractive delicate tropical “A Dolly Parton wine!”Epitome Margaret Reserve Margaret fruit aromas and fresh, Rich, buttery aromasRiver Semillon Bird in Hand Adelaide River Chardonnay flavoursome palate. $18 and big mouthful ofSauvignon Blanc Hills Chardonnay 2012 HHH1/2 Johnston Wines tropical flavours. $202012 HHH 2012 HHHHH Rich and buttery on Adelaide HillsClean, lifted varietal A rich, buttery, malo the nose and tight Chardonnay ROSÉaromas, with flavours style of chardonnay, palate, with savoury 2012 HHHof grapefruit, lemon and with beautifully complex components and fresh Light and fruity bouquet, 13 TASTEDmelon. Fresh, crisp and aromas and excellent oak. Needs time. $20.99 with a bright, alert, nicely 5 AWARDEDwell balanced. $29.99 depth of ripe melon Warner Glen Estate structured and textured fruit, with great use of Margaret River palate. $18 One excellent example quality oak on the long, Chardonnay Greenbanks Geelong of how a rose should textured palate. $42 2012 HHH1/2 Chardonnay be and a handful Fresh and uncomplicated, 2012 HHH of quality siblings! Bird in Hand with fruity aromas, Big and ripe, with fleshy Unfortunately the judges Nest Egg Adelaide subtle complexity and fruit, some spiciness, found the rest more like Hills Chardonnay great flavour focus and some sweetness and “after thoughts”. 2010 HHHHH persistence. $25 warming alcohol. $25 A great rounded, fleshy Warner Glen Estate K1 by Geoff Hardy wine, with a lovely The Pick Reserve Adelaide Hills complexity of biscuity/ Margaret River Chardonnay cashew characters Chardonnay 2012 HHH and fleshy varietal 2011 HHH1/2 Plenty of vibrant ripe fruit. Excellent palate Excellent bright green varietal fruit nicely texture, with a velvety colour and great integrated with the mouthfeel. $85 toastiness to the nose, toasty/savoury oak. $35 with a long, tasty, toasty Sidewood Estate Sidewood Estate palate. $45 Mappinga Reserve Adelaide Hills Nannup Ridge Adelaide Hills Chardonnay Western Australia Chardonnay 2012 HHHH1/2 Chardonnay 2012 HHH Fragrances of honeydew 2012 HHH1/2 Simple and savoury, melon and toasty oak. Complex tropical fruit and nicely layered with Sweet-edged palate aromas, with a well- varietal fruit and oak. $35 with nutty savoury balanced, tropical complexity. “Very palate. Nice cool-climate stylish,” commented one style. $18.50 judge. $30Jane Paull Steve Warrick Greedy SheepFreelance wine consultant, Direct marketer and wine Margaret River Roséwinemaker and wine consultant. Formerly sales 2013 HHHH1/2educator. She is a lecturer and marketing manager Nose is a lovely mix ofin sensory evaluation and for the Hamilton Wine fresh cherries and meaty/fermentation technology Group. 10 years’ experience smallgoods. Palate hasat Adelaide University and working in McLaren Vale, a fresh, estery fruita course trainer for the Coonawarra and the structure, with more ofAdvanced Wine Assessment Adelaide Hills. Has judged at the savoury/smallgoodsCourse. Regular national and the Adelaide, McLaren Vale characters. Good sugar/regional show judge. and Hobart wine shows. acid balance. $20 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 123

NEW RELEASESAnvers South OTHER RED Kirrihill Wines Clare TEMPRANILLOAustralia Rosé VARIETALS Valley Sangiovese & BLENDS2013 HHH & BLENDS 2012 HHH1/2Floral perfumed, cherry/ Some sarsaparilla 7 TASTEDcola nose and nice juicy, 15 TASTED touches on the nose. 5 AWARDEDcitrussy palate. $14 10 AWARDED Clean, intense, spicy fruit An interesting and diverse palate; savoury tannins. A strong class! ThisGralyn Estate line-up. “Fascinating A food wine. $28 variety is starting to getRosé 2013 HHH to see the different a foothold in the marketA big style, with floral/ interpretation of these Kirrihill Wines Mount place both in the vineyardKirsch-like fruit on both new/old varieties,” said Lofty Montepulciano and on the table!the nose and palate. $30 one judge. “Some of 2012 HHH1/2 these varieties were Pungent aromas with CiramiK1 by Geoff Hardy planted in the wrong areas barnyardy notes and South AustraliaAdelaide Hills Rosé and time is now sorting very big, intense, dark Tempranillo2013 HHH out the best plots.” plum fruit, with gentle 2012 HHHH1/2Raspberry cough syrupy tannins. $28 An inky, crimson wine,nose and sweet/sour Shingleback with lovely dark cherrycherry palate. It’s stylish Kitchen Garden Eldredge The nose showing a hint of Hemera Estateand elegant. $20 McLaren Vale Reserve Clare Valley oak. Attractive dark juicy Caudillo Barossa Mataro 2012 HHHHH Malbec 2012 HHH1/2 fruit palate, with meaty TempranilloBlue Pyrenees Red/purple wine, Nose has the essence complexity and lively 2012 HHHHAustralia Pinot Noir with a pure dark fruit of ripe blackberry fruit acidity. $20 Lifted ripe cherry fruitRosé 2012 HHH nose showing a hint with intense licorice-like fragrances and goodRose petal pink hue of chocolate. Savoury/ flavours on a big, soft varietal expressionwith a fragrant floral chocolaty palate, palate. $30 of sweet/sour cherrynose. Strawberry and with fruit seamlessly flavours. Nice high acidsour cherry palate balanced by the Kalleske Fordson finish. $22flavours with a long, wood/tannin elements. Barossa Valleydry finish. $20 Zinfandel 2012 HHH Epsilon 3-5 $22.95 Dark raisiny/plum Barossa ValleyPINOT NOIR Kalleske Buckboard fragrances and Tempranillo Graciano Barossa Valley Durif interesting piquancy to 2012 HHH1/28 TASTED 2012 HHHH the fruity palate. $24 Intense, fruit-driven2 AWARDED Lots of everything wine. Deep, dark and here! Huge, dark, Hand Crafted complex on the nose,Generally disappointing, intense, jammy fruit by Geoff Hardy with a squid ink/cherrywith just a couple of fair characters, with good Langhorne Creek fruit palate. $22examples of quaffing integration of powerful Malbec 2012 HHHstyles. “Just because oak. 5+ $24 Stylish dark fruit nose, Heritage Estatesome of these are with a savoury touch Granite Beltnaturally made doesn’t and tight, ripe plum Tempranillomean they have to taste palate. 5+ $30 2012 HHHlike shit,” said one judge. Very oaky nose, with Hand Crafted Peter Lehmann Hill a Ribena edge andSpring Vale Melrose by Geoff Hardy & Valley Barossa similar characters on theFreycinet Coast Adelaide Hills savoury palate. $25Pinot Noir 2013 HHH Barbera 2012 HHHA dark and brooding Fresh, light, red berry GRENACHEstyle, with sarsaparilla- bouquet and tight, raw, & BLENDSlike fruit characters and primary fruit palate.well-integrated oak. $25 Good example. $30 12 TASTED 9 AWARDEDAustins Geelong Eccolo Adelaide Valley TempranilloPinot Noir 2012 HHH Hills Sangiovese 2012 HHHH1/2 “Great to see theseIntriguing savoury dark 2011 HHH Deep purple wine, with coming back,”fruit, with a spicy lift Great nose – complex, stylish dark fruit aromas commented one judge.and some gamey/meaty herbal and savoury, with and hints of vanilla, cedar “These are lovelyelements. $32.50 a long, tannic palate. and cola. Intense, well- drinks with juicy fruit, Needs food. $25 balanced, savoury/cherry vibrancy and user- fruit palate, with drying friendly flavours.” tannins. 3-5 $24 G.A. Hannett Western Australia Malbec 2010 HHH A very big tannic wine that needs more time to settle. Intense dark fruit and cedary oak. 5+ $50124 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER



NEW RELEASES Rolling Central Blue Pyrenees CABERNET Brown Hill Trafalgar Ranges Grenache Australia Merlot & BLENDS Margaret River Shiraz Mourvedre 2012 HHH1/2 2013 - 2012 Cabernet Merlot 2012 HHH Dark purple wine; nice 2012 HHH1/2 Nice quaffer. Attractive ripe blackberry fruit 13 TASTED A good blend – refined peppery/herbal nose and intensity on both nose and well-balanced, with a great cool-climate, five and well-structured 6 AWARDED mix of roast vegetable and spice palate. $18.99 palate. $20 dark fruit characters. $18Schild Estate Hemera Estate Mollydooker A mixed bag! Some Brown Hill HannansOld Bush Vine Single Vineyard The Scooter early achievers here, Margaret RiverBarossa Valley Old Vine Barossa McLaren Vale but some were also Cabernet SauvignonGrenache Mourvedre Grenache 2012 HHH Merlot 2012 HHH1/2 picked early, thereby 2012 HHH1/2Shiraz 2012 HHHHH A soft, attractive quaffer, A pleasant wine, lacking depth of fruit. Stylish cabernet nose,A Rhone-like style, with with fleshy raspberry fruit with attractive smoky with hints of burnt butterquite an exotic, lifted, and light toasty oak. $30 characters on the nose. Noble Red Heathcote and a flavoursome,raspberry/cranberry Soft and plummy in the Cabernet Sauvignon chocolaty, dark fruitnose and a lovely long, McLaren Vale III mouth. $25 2012 HHHH palate. $18generous, mouthfilling, Associates Four Shingleback Good varietal lift tospicy palate. Has great Score McLaren Vale Triumvirate McLaren the nose with hints of Banks Thargoconcentration and Grenache 2012 HHH Vale Merlot Cabernet menthol. Juicy red fruit Coonawarracomplexity. $15 Brambly fruit fragrances Sauvignon Cabernet palate, long gentle tannins Cabernet SauvignonKirrihilll Wines with a menthol touch. Franc 2012 HHH and spicy oak. $40 2012 HHH1/2Clare Valley Austere, well-structured Big, ripe, plum jam Anvers Brabo Violets, berries andGrenache Sangiovese palate. $35 of a nose and well- South Australia eucalypt on the nose,Tempranillo structured, fleshy, Cabernet Sauvignon and beautiful blueberry2012 HHHH Schild Estate Edgar sweet palate. $22.95 2012 HHHH flavours with long, fineDark, ripe, Christmas Schild Reserve Hemera Estate Single A serious wine. tannins. $23cake-like aromas and big, Barossa Valley Vineyard Barossa Powerful blackberryintense, inky, fruit palate, Grenache 2012 HHH Merlot 2012 HHH fruit, floral/violet lift CABERNETwith drying, mouthcoating Good varietal expression Ripe, rich, fruit cake nose and excellent palate & BLENDStannins. $28 on nose and palate of and slightly porty, plum structure, with good 2011Elderton Greenock fresh, sweet, brambly palate, with balanced tannin support. $14Two Barossa Valley fruit. $50 sweetness. $30 Taylors Promised 10 TASTEDGrenache Shiraz Bird in Hand Land South Australia 5 AWARDEDMourvedre McLaren Vale Adelaide Hills Cabernet Sauvignon2012 HHHH III Associates Merlot 2012 HHH 2012 HHH1/2 In this year there areA great classic GSM. Backbone McLaren Savoury biscuity aromas Dark berries and fresh the good, the badIntense deep aromas Vale G.S.M. and fleshy palate, oak on the nose, and and the ugly. “Goodand supple palate, with 2010 HHH with upfront fruit juicy dark fruit palate, winemakers make goodexcellent flavour profile A big, old-fashioned, concentration. $42 with soft and gentle wine in a difficult year,”and a minty touch. $30 earthy/oaky style, with Schild Estate tannins. $13 said one judge.Blackbilly McLaren nice peppery/spicy Barossa ValleyVale Grenache complexity. $35 Merlot 2011 HHH Sanguine EstateShiraz Mourvedre Perfumed and pretty Heathcote Cabernet2011 HHHH MERLOT nose - blueberry fruit Sauvignon CabernetDescribed as “deep, & BLENDS aromas and a soft, Franc Petit Verdotdark violet” in colour by sweet, rich palate. $20 2011 HHHHone judge, with “intense 14 TASTED Pertaringa Lovely Christmas cakefruit cake, nutmeg and 8 AWARDED Stage Left Adelaide nose. Long, well-cloves.” Good length Merlot 2011 HHH structured palate, withand fine tannins. $22 The judges thought Coconut oak on the intense flavours. Needs that a number of wines nose and a rich and food or time – or both! lacked extra dimension flavoursome, ripe plum of fruit, offering a better palate. $22 5+ $24.95 blend rather than a McLaren Vale stand alone varietal. III Associates Fox Creek Reserve The best showed true Renaissance McLaren Vale black cherry varietal McLaren Vale Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon characters with extra Cabernet Petit 2011 HHHH generosity, rather than Verdot 2011 HHH Refined fruit aromas, austere green fruit. Soft herbaceous aromas with excellent oak and supple raspberry integration. Elegant palate, with nutty oak palate; delicate fruit, complexity. $25 hint of oak and subtle tannins. $48126 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingRobert Stein CABERNET Wynns Coonawarra Olivia Coonawarra Souter's VineyardReserve Mudgee & BLENDS Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet SauvignonCabernet Shiraz 2010 & OLDER Limited Release 2008 HHHH 2009 HHH1/22011 HHHH Cabernet Sauvignon Brick red tinges and a Lively varietal lift to theElegant blend, with dark 15 TASTED 2010 HHHH1/2 leafy, cassis cabernet nose; some licorice. Acabernet fruit standing 7 AWARDED Dark fruit, mocha and nose with dusty oak. youthful, tannic, licoriceout and showing a lovely leather characters on the Intense and developed, and red fruit palate. $30violet lift. Gentle acid. Some excellent wines nose. Palate still quite with dark fruits and fineFine tannins. $60 here that showed the tannic and oaky. Excellent tannins. A tight, well- Tahbilk NagambieDe Beauepaire highlights of cabernet. structure and lots of spicy balanced style. $19.50 Lakes CabernetCaptain Starlight “These show everything complexity. Just needs Thompson Estate Sauvignon 2010 HHHAustralia Cabernet we look for in cabernet, more time. $149.99 Andrea Margaret Dark red fruit aromas;Sauvignon 2011 HHH including primary fruit Wynns Coonawarra River Cabernet just a hint of oak andA classy, refined and the finesse of tannin Estate Black Label Sauvignon dark fruit flavours on thecabernet, with cherry structure,” said one judge. Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Franc drying palate. $17.95fruit characters edged 2010 HHHH Merlot 2010 HHHHwith savoury notes. Wynns Coonawarra A lovely rich cabernet, Chocolaty Ribena SHIRAZ Estate Messenger with pure, lively, varietal aromas and elegant, BLENDS 5+ $19 Cabernet Sauvignon fruit expression, nice refined but intense darkHand Crafted 2010 HHHHH spicy oak and subtle fruit flavours, with a 6 TASTEDby Geoff Hardy Excellent deep purple/ tannins. $44.99 savoury edge and fine 5 AWARDEDMcLaren Vale crimson colours and tannins. $40Cabernet Sauvignon gorgeous dark ripe red A small but excellent class2011 HHH varietal fruit, with a hint of nicely balanced wines,A good “drink now” of mocha and sweet oak. with both cabernet andstyle, with pure ripe Elegant but with good grenache performing wellvarietal fruit definition cellaring potential. $79.99 in the partnership.and some mintiness. $30STORE TASTE DISCOVERMAnAgED STORAgE | wInE TASTIng lOungE & EVEnTS | wInE MAnAgEMEnT pORTAl | METhuSElAh’S CEllARBOOK A wInE TASTIng EVEnT An industry leading facility and service provider dedicated to the proper care and storageAnD QuOTE ‘wS’ TO RECEIVE of wine. Whether you are Private Collector or in the Wine Trade, we pride ourselves on being A 10% DISCOunT On EnTRY able to offer the finest facilities in the country. At a constant 12°C and 55-75% relative humidity, we believe Artisan Wine Storage is the best in the business for your wine. Lane Cove West, Sydney | T: 1300 350 456 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 127

NEW RELEASES Shingleback Local Sidewood Estate Sidewood Estate Heroes McLaren Adelaide Hills Shiraz Stable Hill Adelaide Vale Shiraz 2012 HHHH1/2 Hills Shiraz Grenache 2012 HHH Big, ripe, fleshy shiraz 2012 HHHH Balanced, inky and fruit nose, with a A huge, classic, Aussie luscious, with very dark lovely savoury edge. style, with very obvious fruit characters and some Beautifully layered rich, spicy, fruit cake- vanillin oak. $22.95 palate, with licorice, like fruit and powerful menthol and raspberry- toasty oak. $20 Rosenvale Estate like flavours. $32 Barossa Valley Sidewood Estate Noble Red Ellena Shiraz Grenache Mappinga Reserve Special Release 2012 HHH Adelaide Hills Shiraz Heathcote Shiraz Aromatic leafy/herbal 2012 HHHH1/2 2012 HHH1/2 lift to the simple fruit Stylish wine – tight and Big, rich, ripe and nose and full, fruity/floral a little closed for now warming Aussie shiraz, palate. $24 but should develop with lovely intense dark very well. Ripe minty/ fruit characters andHither & Yon Fox Creek JSM Jericho raspberry bouquet and cedary oak. $45McLaren Vale McLaren Vale Shiraz McLaren Vale some sarsaparilla-like Greedy SheepShiraz Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2012 HHHHH flavours. $50 Margaret River2012 HHHHH Cabernet Franc Dark, ripe, shiraz fruit Tim Smith Wines Shiraz 2012 HHHAn intense, brooding 2011 HHH focus to the nose Barossa Valley Lovely medium-bodiedand serious wine, with Plush oak-driven style with savoury meaty Shiraz 2012 HHHH quaffer, with succulenta huge concentration – elegant and refined, complexity. Beautifully A huge, ripe, fleshy, spicy plum/raspberryof mulberry-like varietal with minty, leafy, herbal crafted palate; good oak/ blackberry jam nose and fruit. $25fruits on both the nose elements. $22.50 fruit/tannin balance and lovely concentration of Water Wheel Memsieand the palate, with a length. Has sweetness rich alcoholic flavours. Homestead Bendigolight touch of oak. Needs SHIRAZ and high alcohol. $35 Needs time. $36 Shiraz 2012 HHHtime. 5+ $25 2012 Mollydooker Anvers Brabo South Big, uncomplicated The Boxer Australia Shiraz quaffer, with sweet ripeMollydooker 32 TASTED McLaren Vale Shiraz 2012 HHHH cherry fruit and creamyTwo Left Feet 24 AWARDED 2012 HHHHH Classy cool-climate mouthfeel. $10 CDMcLaren Vale Shiraz A tight and elegant shiraz, with high toned Oakover WinesCabernet Merlot Excellent class! A great shiraz, with dark creamy menthol aromas layered White Label2012 HHHH1/2 line-up of vibrant, well- raspberry fruit bouquet with raspberry fruit and Western AustraliaRich, ripe, dark and balanced wines. The only and lovely rounded similar flavours. $14 Shiraz 2012 HHHtannic style of wine, ones knocked out here palate with mouthfilling Water Wheel Bendigo Tightly bound nose,with a huge oaky nose were herbaceous and flavours showing Shiraz 2012 HHHH supple and fleshy in theand more oak power green as opposed to the excellent varietal Reserved chocolaty/ripe mouth, with red berrieson the ripe, jammy fruit ripe and alcoholic failures expression. $25 berry fruit bouquet and and vanilla oak. $11.99palate. Good cellaring of the past. “The market Harcourt Valley excellent Cherry Ripe-potential. 5+ $25 is moving to elegance, Vineyards Barbara's like flavour profile on a rather than weight,” Bendigo Shiraz long, soft palate. $16 CD noted one judge. 2012 HHHH1/2 Fox Creek Red A big, rich, spicy style, Baron McLaren Vale STAR RATINGS  with intense menthol Shiraz 2012 HHHH lift to the nose and nice Upfront oak charactersThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of depth to the palate, with on nose and palateexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. great flavour focus of underscored by lovelyAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry berries, menthol and rich fruit. Excellentprofessionals and are compared in peer cloves. $25 palate structure.classes by three judges. Mr Rigg's “Classy.” $17.50CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, Piebald Gully Epsilon Barossaa major mail-order business. McLaren Vale Syrah Valley ShirazCD Cellar door price. 2012 HHHH1/2 2012 HHHHCDO Cellar door only. Tight, focussed, oaky Dark impenetrableSO Sold out. and alcoholic, with great colour, intense brooding$N/A Price not available at time of printing. colour intensity. Huge blackcurrant pastille Contact information pg 144. concentration of dark aromas and huge jammy fruit and charry oak lifts black fruit palate. $20 RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). off the nose and fills theFor a complete list of what we tasted mouth. Needs time. $27please refer to www.winestate.com.au128 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tasting The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 129

NEW RELEASESBlue Pyrenees SHIRAZ Peter Lehmann Robert Stein Rosenvale EstateAustralia Shiraz 2011 Futures Barossa Reserve Mudgee Barossa Valley2012 HHH Valley Shiraz Shiraz 2011 HHH Shiraz 2010 HHHA lightweight, cool- 21 TASTED 2011 HHH1/2 Lean, reserved style of Plum nose is dark, intenseclimate style, with some 9 AWARDED Rich, concentrated, shiraz, with good fruit and lifted, with restrained,lovely spicy, estery, A tough call here, Cherry Ripe-like fruit expression on nose and well-structured, cherryearly picked fruit. $20 however it shows that characters balanced with palate. $50 palate. $24Sightings good winemakers can sweet vanillin oak. $28Heathcote Bendigo still make good wines Whistler Albert SHIRAZ Clarnette &Shiraz 2012 HHH in difficult conditions. Heinrich Barossa 2010 & OLDER Ludvigsen GrampiansLight but intense spicy/ “These were well-crafted Valley Shiraz Shiraz 2010 HHHclove aromatics and very wines for earlier drinking 2011 HHH 18 TASTED Chocolate/mochaattractive palate with in a mid-weight style!” Ripe tarry nose and 7 AWARDED complexity to thesimilar characters. $20 Fox Creek Reserve slightly porty palate, raspberry nose. NiceBird in Hand McLaren Vale Shiraz with sweet edges and Too many wines were range of savoury fruitTwo in the Bush 2011 HHHH1/2 some warmth. $19.95 fading rapidly or were flavours. $25Mt Lofty Ranges A “smouldering”, Warner Glen Estate already gone. “For theShiraz 2012 HHH complex and layered Margaret River 2010 vintage there were Hemera EstateA clean and tidy style, with rich cherry Shiraz 2011 HHH some great wines before JDR Barossa Shirazmedium-weight wine, berry fruit and lovely Lifted, fresh, ripe cherry the heat wave and some 2010 HHHwith rich spicy oak and fresh new oak, fruit and spicy oak disasters after the heat Old-school style, withsweet berry fruit. $22 with meaty savoury elements on nose and wave,” said one judge. all the trimmings!Hemera Estate complexity and dark palate. $25 “But, as always, the best Intense fruit, with coffeeLights Out Barossa chocolaty characters. $75 TeAro Estate are obvious and a cut chocolate complexity. $75Shiraz 2012 HHH Charred Door above the rest.”An herbaceous nose and Howling Wolves Barossa Valley SWEETsweet, mouthfilling, fruit/ Margaret River Shiraz 2011 HHH Tahbilk WHITES &new oak flavours. $22 Shiraz 2011 HHHH Intense oaky nose Nagambie Lakes FORTIFIEDSBlue Pyrenees Intense and chocolaty and concentrated oak Shiraz 2010 HHHHRichardson Australia on the nose, with a soft, flavours, with coconut- Oaky, nutty complexity to 7 TASTEDShiraz 2012 HHH flavoursome, medium- like characters. $28 the red berry nose. Palate 4 AWARDEDA nice integration and bodied palate, with tarry Brygon Reserve War is layered and spicy withintensity of jammy fruit flavours. $14.99 Horse Barossa Valley soft savoury fruit and Some solid, easy drinkingblackberry fruit and McLaren Vale III Shiraz 2011 HHH gentle tannins. $17.95 performers and a nicetoasty oak. $25 Associates Squid Brilliant deep purple hue. vintage port to put away.Harcourt Valley Ink McLaren Vale Ripe flavours of dark Wynns CoonawarraVineyards Heathcote Shiraz 2011 HHHH fruits with nuances of Estate Michael Kalleske JMKShiraz 2012 HHH Dark ripe fruit aromas, chocolate and five spice. Limited Release VP Barossa ValleySome lovely lifted, with some cloves. Soft Good weight on the palate Coonawarra Shiraz Vintage Portperfumed, plummy fruit generous palate, with combined with length and 2010 HHHH 2011 HHHHand well-structured good blackcurrant/light balance. $49.99 Intense ripe blackberry Intense andjammy palate. $25 chocolate flavours. $55 fruits on the warm concentrated plummyElderton Greenock nose. Stylish palate – fruit, with raisinedOne Barossa Valley big but controlled with ripeness, good licoriceShiraz 2012 HHH powerful fruit. $149.99 characters and darkDark ripe fruit aromas chocolaty elements. $23and flavours; quite Possinghamclosed for now but & Summers Cirami Riverlandshould develop well. $30 McLaren Vale Shiraz Moscato 2013 HHHBird in Hand 2010 HHH1/2 Long and luscious,Mt Lofty Ranges Attractive greenish, with nice balance ofShiraz 2012 HHH shaded, canopy fruit muscat fruit and spicyAttractive cedary/herbal here on nose and elements. $20bouquet and nicely palate mixed with somelayered, herbal/dark fruit raspberry notes. $18 Heritage Estatepalate. $42 Granite Belt Sa' Nice Sedure Frontignac Barossa Valley 2013 HHH Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 Pretty perfumed Lovely medium-bodied aromatics – smells of rose style, with ripe, sweet, petals and spice. Palate is plum/raspberry fruit elegant and balanced. $16 and nice chocolaty elements. $25 Reillys Cane Cut Clare Valley Riesling 2013 HHH Yellow green wine, with simple, reserved, citrus- like fruit on the nose and palate. $19130 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

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TOP 40Claire Creek Sparkling South Point Estate Elemes Australia Veuve OlivierMoscato Rosa NV Sparkling Chardonnay Sparkling Chardonnay Sparkling Brut NVAn intense, sweet, muscaty Pinot Noir NV Pinot Noir NV Toasty honeyed notes evolvingstyle of rosé with some nicely on the nose. Good palatebold mouthfilling berry fruit Appley nose with strawberry Some complexity to the nose length; flavoursome, with aflavours. $4.99 notes and soft palate with a hot with floral notes. Developing, solid line of crisp acid. $7.99 finish. $5.99 slightly sweeter, palate. $9.99Aldi Stores Aldi Stores Aldi Stores Aldi StoresPh: (02) 9675 9000 Ph: (02) 9675 9000 Ph: (02) 9675 9000 Ph: (02) 9675 9000Web: www.aldi.com.au Web: www.aldi.com.au Web: www.aldi.com.au Web: www.aldi.com.auBEST VALUE WINES OF AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND$U2N0DE&R Is updated in each issue of The Wine & Spirit Insider. TO QUALIFY Some wines may - if they are still available - remain in the next issue’s Best Value Wines listing. Others 1 Wines must have first been recommended will sell out, or be replaced by higher-rated wines. in Winestate Magazine style or new release The Wine & Spirit Insider’s Best Value Wines listing tastings. Style tastings are defined as varietal comprises the best wines currently available, from big- tastings - eg, shiraz, chardonnay, etc. - or name brands and the higher volume ‘second labels’ blended styles such as shiraz/cabernet wines. from the smaller producers, as tasted by Winestate 2 Wines from designated regional tastings Magazine panels. The Best Value Wines listing gives are eligible provided they are widely available. credit to the value wines in the marketplace - wines 3 All wines must be currently available from that would otherwise be overshadowed by their much the winery, or be readily available in the more expensive cousins. marketplace. Cellar door wine is ineligable. $25 NZD & UNDER132 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Capel Vale Debut Eight Carat Sparkling Scarpantoni Tempest Ross HillSparkling Brut NV Chardonnay Pinot Noir NV McLaren Vale Sparkling Jessica & Lily OrangeA nicely layered and complex Delicate sherbety bouquet Sauvignon Blanc NV Sauvignon Blanc 2013fruit-driven style, with some and tart apple palate with Pretty pink wine offering Light citrus bouquet and slightlovely traditional yeasty strawberry notes. $16 pleasant drinking, with nice astringent 'Bickfords' limeautolysis characters. $19.99 persistence of peach and cordial-like flavours. $20 Pirramimma/ strawberry aromas andCapel Vale Geoff Johnston Wines Pty Ltd flavours. $20 Ross Hill WinesPh: 0428 991 980 Ph: (08) 8323 8205 Ph: (02) 6365 3223E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Scarpantoni Estate Wines E-mail: [email protected]: www.capelvale.com Web: www.pirramimma.com.au Ph: (08) 8383 0186 Web: www.rosshillwines.com.au E-mail: scarpantoni.wines@ bigpond.com.au Web: www.scarpantoni-wines.com.au The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 133

TOP 40Toi Toi Marlborough Oakover Wines White Nepenthe Altitude McGuigan ExpressionsSauvignon Blanc 2013 Label Swan Valley Semillon Adelaide Hills Adelaide HillsFull-bodied, ripely herbaceous Sauvignon Blanc 2012 Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Sauvignon Blanc 2013regional blend, fresh and lively,with tropical fruit flavours and a Developing toasty, honeyed, Restrained nose – some A lean, austere, citrus-drivendryish, crisp finish. $17 (A, UK) aged characters mix with the capsicum, peas and grassiness. style, with slightly grassy/ tropical fruit. $11.99 Good palate, with delicate spicy capsicum-like characters. $15.99ToiToi Wines fruit drive and acid spine. $19.99E-mail: [email protected] Australian Vintage Limited/Web: www.toitoiwines.co.nz Oakover Wines Australian Vintage Limited/ McGuigan Ph: (08) 9374 8000 McGuigan Ph: (08) 8524 0200 E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8524 0200 E-mail: atrescowthick@ Web: www.oakoverwines.com.au E-mail: atrescowthick@ australianvintage.com.au australianvintage.com.au Web: www.avl.com.au Web: www.avl.com.au134 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Bird Marlborough Bird Marlborough Mojo Fizz Adelaide Hills Mojo by Rockbare Pinot Gris 2012 Sauvignon Blanc 2012 Sparkling Chardonnay Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Pinot Noir Brut Cuvée NV A lovely combination of earthy, Attractively scented wine, Fresh, lively, ripely herbaceous Floral citrus bouquet, with light briary characters on nose and grown at Rapaura. Still aromas lead into a full-bodied, yeasty notes and soft peaches palate. Olive-like savoury notes youthful, with vibrant, peachy, single-vineyard wine, grown at and cream flavours. $20 and persistent tannins. $18 slightly citrusy and spicy Rapaura and fermented in tanks flavours, fresh acidity and (mostly) and barrels. Attractive RockBare RockBare a smooth, slightly off-dry, passionfruit, lime and green Ph: (08) 8388 7155 Ph: (08) 8388 7155 lingering finish. $19.95 (A, US) capsicum flavours, with a slightly E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] leesy complexity and a smooth, Web: www.rockbare.com.au Web: www.rockbare.com.au Steve Bird Winery & Vineyards Ltd lingering finish. $19.95 (A, US) Ph: +64 7 927 2377 E-mail: [email protected] Steve Bird Winery & Vineyards Ltd Web: www.bMiOrdJOw-iAnDe2s..cpodmf 1 5/09/13EPh-m: +a5i6l::43s97teP9vMe2@7 b2i3rd7w7 ines.com Web: www.birdwines.com C M Y CM MY CYCMY K The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 135

TOP 40Eldredge Clare Valley Greyrock Hawke’s Bay Spy Valley Marlborough Spy Valley MarlboroughRiesling 2013 Pinot Gris 2013 Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Pinot Noir Rosé 2013Excellent green colour, withlovely bath salt, citrus and Medium-bodied style, with Tight, crisp, very youthful wine, Pale pink, full-bodied wine,fruit tingles aromas. Lovely pear, lychee and spice grown in the Wairau Valley and made with “subtle oakfresh, crisp, citrus flavours on flavours showing good varietal made with “a portion” of barrel influences”. Fresh strawberry,the tight, lively palate, with its character, and a crisp and fermentation. Light lemon/green, peach and spice flavours,delicate fragrant elements. $18 refreshing, slightly sweet with ripe, sweet-fruit characters showing a touch of complexity, finish. (From Sileni.) $20 (A, UK) and vibrant passionfruit/lime and a dry finish. A good “food”Eldredge Vineyards flavours, showing good intensity. wine. $23 (UK, US)Ph: (08) 8842 3086 Greyrock Wine of New Zealand Best 2014+. $20 (A, UK, US)E-mail: [email protected] Ph: +64 6 879 8768 Spy Valley WinesWeb: www.eldredge.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Spy Valley Wines Ph: +64 3 572 9840 Web: www.greyrock.co.nz Ph: +64 3 572 9840 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.spyvalleywine.co.nz Web: www.spyvalleywine.co.nz136 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Sileni Cellar Sileni Cellar Sileni Cellar Selection Sileni CellarSelection Marlborough Selection Hawke’s Bay Hawke’s Bay Selection Hawke’s BaySauvignon Blanc 2012 Pinot Gris 2013 Cabernet Franc Rosé 2013 Pinot Noir 2013Aged herbaceous nose and Fresh, crisp and finely balanced. Pale pink, with vibrant strawberry Bright ruby, buoyantly fruitypowerful varietal flavours, with Dryish style with citrus fruit, pear and spice flavours, and a slightly red with soft, ripe, plummygentle acidity. $20 and lychee flavours, showing sweet finish. Refreshing, easy flavours and a hint of toasty good depth. $20 (A, UK, US) drinking. $20 (A, UK, US) oak. “Beaujolais-like”, wroteSileni Estate one judge, with plenty of drink-Ph: +64 6 879 8768 Sileni Estate Sileni Estate young charm. $20 (A, UK, US)E-mail: [email protected] Ph: +64 6 879 8768 Ph: +64 6 879 8768Web: www.sileni.co.nz E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Sileni Estate Web: www.sileni.co.nz Web: www.sileni.co.nz Ph: +64 6 879 8768 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.sileni.co.nz The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 137

TOP 40Norfolk Rise Vineyard Norfolk Rise Vineyard Norfolk Rise Norfolk Rise VineyardMount Benson Pinot Mount Benson Sauvignon Vineyard Limestone Coast Mount Benson Shiraz 2010Grigio 2013 Blanc 2013 Pinot Noir 2012Typical pinot gris nose - spicy Light, ripe, tropical aromas and Spicy, stalky aromas and full- Nose of licorice and spice,and fresh followed by a classic some powerful tropical fruit flavoured cherry berry palate with a menthol edge.varietal palate - some apples flavours nicely balanced by the with good level of tannins. $16 Interesting, slightly astringent,and hints of herbs. $16 crisp acidity. $16 spicy green palate. Powerful tannic finish. 5+ $16Norfolk Rise Vineyard Norfolk Rise VineyardPh: (08) 8768 5080 Ph: (08) 8768 5080 Norfolk Rise Vineyard Norfolk Rise VineyardE-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8768 5080 Ph: (08) 8768 5080Web: www.norfolkrise.com.au Web: www.norfolkrise.com.au E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.norfolkrise.com.au Web: www.norfolkrise.com.au138 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

The Puppeteer South Anvers South Australia Anvers Brabo Anvers BraboAustralia Chardonnay 2011 Rosé 2013 South Australia South Australia Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Shiraz 2012A complex combination of Floral perfumed, cherry/cola A serious wine. Powerful Classy cool-climate shiraz,seasoned oak with fleshy nose and nice juicy, citrussy blackberry fruit, floral/violet lift with high toned mentholtropical fruit underneath. $14.90 palate. $14 and excellent palate structure, aromas layered with raspberry with good tannin support. $14 fruit and similar flavours. $14Ramco Wine Group Anvers WinesPh: +61 8 8362 7008 Ph: (08) 8323 9603 Anvers Wines Anvers WinesE-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8323 9603 Ph: (08) 8323 9603Web: www.ramcowinegroup.com Web: www.anvers.com.au E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.anvers.com.au Web: www.anvers.com.au www.ramcowinegroup.comUntitled-2 1 The W ine & Spirit IN5/9S/2I01D3 E9:R29:48 PM139

TOP 40Patrick of Coonawarra Patrick of Coonawarra Patrick of Coonawarra Ngatarawa StablesMother of Pearl Mother of Pearl Mother of Pearl Reserve Hawke’s BayCoonawarra Sparkling Cabernet Merlot 2010 Shiraz 2010 Syrah 2012Chardonnay Pinot NV Developed leathery nose; Herbaceous characters to the Medium-bodied style, fresh,Leesy apple aromas and touch pruney. Full-bodied, full- nose with bright fruit flavours spicy and savoury, with somecrisp, citrus/apple palate, with flavoured palate. Good tannin showing green edges; good meaty notes and fairly firmgood length and interesting structure. $19 acid and drying tannins. $19 tannins. One judge found it acomplexity. $19 bit “rustic”, but another praised Patrick of Coonawarra Patrick of Coonawarra its “interest and appeal”. $22Patrick of Coonawarra Ph: (08) 8737 3687 Ph: (08) 8737 3687Ph: (08) 8737 3687 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Ngatarawa WinesE-mail: [email protected] Web: www.patrickofcoonawarra.com Web: www.patrickofcoonawarra.com Ph: +64 6 879 7603Web: www.patrickofcoonawarra.com E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.ngatarawawines.co.nzthe wine & spiritA U S T R A L I A N & N E W Z E A L A N D Issue 132 | November/December 2013Editor & Publisher Winestate Web Site This publication may not, in whole or in part, be copied, E-mail: [email protected] photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to anyPeter Simic E-mail: [email protected] electronic medium or machine-readable form withoutManaging Editor Printing DAI Rubicon the express permission of the publisher. Every care Website: www.distalliance.com is taken in compiling the contents of this publication,Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] but the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effectsAdministration The Wine & Spirit Insider is published six times a year by arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411Vicki Bozsoki E-mail: [email protected] WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, Winestate Publishing Pty Ltd.Art Director 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212 Copyright 2013 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. E-mail [email protected] Gerard E-mail: [email protected] The Wine & Spirit Insider is distributed across Australia, Website www.winestate.com.auMarketing Manager New Zealand, Singapore and Hong Kong.Peter Jackson E-mail: [email protected] CoordinatorCara Cassetta E-mail: [email protected] The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Possingham & Summers Sidewood Estate Brown Hill Trafalgar Brown Hill HannansMcLaren Vale Shiraz 2010 Stable Hill Adelaide Hills Margaret River Cabernet Margaret River CabernetAttractive greenish, shaded, Shiraz 2012 Merlot 2012 Sauvignon 2012canopy fruit here on nose Stylish cabernet nose,and palate mixed with some A huge, classic, Aussie style, A good blend – refined and with hints of burnt butterraspberry notes. $18 with very obvious rich, spicy, well-balanced, with a mix of and a flavoursome, chocolaty, fruit cake-like fruit and powerful roast vegetable and dark fruit dark fruit palate. $18 toasty oak. $20 characters. $18 Brown Hill EstatePossums McLaren Vale Vineyard Sidewood Estate Pty Ltd/ Brown Hill Estate Ph: (08) 9757 4003Ph: (08) 8272 3406 Ashwood Estate Ph: (08) 9757 4003 E-mail: cellardoor@E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8388 7084 E-mail: cellardoor@ brownhillestate.com.auWeb: www.possumswines.com.au E-mail: [email protected] brownhillestate.com.au Web: www.brownhillestate.com.au Web: www.sidewood.com.au Web: www.brownhillestate.com.auOPPORTUNITY TO PARTNER WITH WINESTATE Winestate will be conducting tasting AT THE WORLD’S LARGEST WINE SHOW! events at the world’s biggest wine expo - directly promoting a strictly limited 48th edition number of Australian and New Zealand 6-9 april 2014 wines direct to the buyers of the world Winestate VinItaly Trade Mission during the week of 10-14 April, 2014. www.vinitaly.com If you are interested in participation please contact Peter Jackson [email protected] +61 8 8357 9277. Complimentary advertising and on site marketing support included. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 141



November/December 2013 W I N E S TAT E 143

contact detailsCHAMPAGNE & SPARKLING LIMESTONE COAST Gibbston Valley Wines Oakover WinesAldi Stores Norfolk Rise Vineyard Ph: +64 27 2216 123 Ph: (08) 9374 8000Ph: (02) 9675 9000 Ph: (08) 8768 5080 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: www.aldi.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.gvwines.co.nz Web: www.oakoverwines.com.auBarokes Wines Web: www.norfolkrise.com.au Hickinbotham Of Dromana Patrick of CoonawarraPh: (03) 9675 4277 Orlando Wines Ph: (03) 5981 0355 Ph: (08) 8737 3687E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8521 3111 (Winery) E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: www.wineinacan.com E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.hickinbotham.biz Web: www.patrickofcoonawarra.comChampagne Charpentier Web: www.orlandowines.com.au Judge Rock Pinot Wines Pirramimma/Geoff Johnston Wines Pty LtdPh: +33 3 23 82 10 72 Patrick of Coonawarra Ph: +64 3 448 5059 Ph: (08) 8323 8205E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8737 3687 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: www.champagne-charpentier..com E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.judgerock.co.nz Web: www.pirramimma.com.auCourabyra Wines Web: www.patrickofcoonawarra.com Lochar Estate Possums McLaren Vale VineyardPh: 0429 482 462 Penley Estate Pty Ltd E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8272 3406E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8363 5500 Web: www.locharestate.com E-mail: [email protected]: www.courabyrawines.com E-mail: [email protected] Mt Difficulty Web: www.possumswines.com.auDomaine Wine Shippers Web: www.penley.com.au Ph: +64 3 445 3445 Ramco Wine GroupPh: (03) 9878 7848 / 1300397397 Wines by Geoff Hardy E-mail: [email protected] Ph: +61 8 8362 7008E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8388 3700 Web: www.mtdifficulty.co.nz E-mail: [email protected] Brands International E-mail: [email protected] Mud House Wines Web: www.ramcowinegroup.comPh: 0427 705 391 Web: www.handcraftedbygeoffhardy. Ph: +64 3 520 6011 RockBareE-mail: [email protected] com.au E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8388 7155Web: www.italiquore.com.au Web: www.mudhouse.co.nz E-mail: [email protected] Wines NEW RELEASES Saint Clair Family Vineyards Web: www.rockbare.com.auPh: 0437 633 575 Greedy Sheep Ph: +64 3 578 8695 Ross Hill WinesE-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 9755 7428 E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (02) 6365 3223Web: www.jamabro.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.saintclair.co.nz E-mail: [email protected] Park Estate Web: www.greedysheep.com.au Soho Wine Co. Web: www.rosshillwines.com.auPh: (03) 5253 3180 Hemera Estate Ph: +64 9 360 5443 Scarpantoni Estate WinesE-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8524 4033 E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8383 0186Web: www.leuraparkestate.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.sohowineco.com E-mail: [email protected] Wines Web: www.hemeraestate.com.au Steve Bird Winery & Vineyards Ltd Web: www.scarpantoni-wines.com.auPh: 0427 562 560 Hither & Yon Ph: +64 7 927 2377 Sidewood Estate Pty Lty/Ashwood EstateE-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8556 2082 E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8388 7084Web: www.micheliniwines.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.birdwines.com E-mail: [email protected] Creek Wines/ Web: www.hitherandyon.com.au Waipara Hills Wines/The MH Wine Group Web: www.sidewood.com.auJip Jip Rocks/Mt Monster Howling Wolves Ph: +64 3 520 6011 Sileni EstatePh: (08) 8723 1065 Ph: (08) 9303 4688 E-mail: [email protected] Ph: +64 6 879 8768E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.waiparahills.co.nz E-mail: [email protected]: www.morambrocreek.com.au/ Web: www.howlingwolveswines.com Yealands Estate Wines Ltd Web: www.sileni.co.nzWeb: www.mtmonster.com.au/ Jericho Wines Ph: +64 3 575 7618 Spy Valley WinesWeb: www.jipjiprocks.com.au Ph: (08) 8842 2601 E-mail: [email protected] Ph: +64 3 572 9840Negociants Australia E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.yealands.co.nz E-mail: [email protected]: (08) 8112 4200 Noble Red Web: www.spyvalleywine.co.nzWeb: www.negociantsaustralia.com/ Ph: 0400 594 440 TOP 40 Steve Bird Winery & Vineyards LtdWeb: www.redbankwines.com E-mail: [email protected] Aldi Stores Ph: +64 7 927 2377Padthaway Estate Oakover Wines Ph: (02) 9675 9000 E-mail: [email protected]: (08) 8765 5235 Ph: (08) 9374 8000 Web: www.aldi.com.au Web: www.birdwines.comE-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Anvers Wines Toi Toi WinesWeb: www.padthawayestate.com Web: www.oakoverwines.com.au Ph: (08) 8323 9603 E-mail: [email protected] Brook Vineyard Peter Lehmann Wines Limited E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.toitoiwines.co.nzPh: (03) 6332 4444 Ph: (08) 8565 9555 Web: www.anvers.com.auE-mail: [email protected] E-mail: malcolm.stopp@ Australian Vintage Limited/McGuigan HAWKE’S BAYWeb: www.pipersbrook.com peterlehmannwines.com Ph: (08) 8524 0200 Elephant HillPirramimma/Geoff Johnston Wines Pty Ltd Web: www.peterlehmannwines.com.au E-mail: atrescowthick@ Ph: +64 6 873 0400Ph: (08) 8323 8205 Schild Estate australianvintage.com.au E-mail: [email protected]: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8524 5560 Web: www.avl.com.au Web: www.elephanthill.co.nzWeb: www.pirramimma.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Brown Hill Estate Villa Maria Estate LtdQueens Pinch Vineyard Web: www.schildestate.com.au Ph: (08) 9757 4003 Ph: +64 9 255 1754Ph: (02) 6373 3504 Shingleback E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8323 7388 Web: www.brownhillestate.com.au Web: www.villamaria.co.nzWeb: www.queenspinch.com E-mail: [email protected] Capel ValeRamco Wine Group Web: www.shingleback.com.au Ph: 0428 991 980 MICHAEL COOPER’SPh: +61 8 8362 7008 E-mail: [email protected] RECENT RELEASESE-mail: [email protected] NORTH EAST VICTORIA Web: www.capelvale.com Elephant HillWeb: www.ramcowinegroup.com All Saints Estate & St Leonards Vineyard Eldredge Vineyards Ph: +64 6 873 0400Swings & Roundabouts Ph: (02) 6035 2217 Ph: (08) 8842 3086 E-mail: [email protected]: (08) 9756 6735 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.elephanthill.co.nzE-mail: [email protected] Web: www.allsaintswine.com.au Web: www.eldredge.com.au DeutzWeb: www.swings.com.au Eaglerange Estate Wines Greyrock Wine of New Zealand E-mail: [email protected] Vineyards Ph: (03) 5752 2518 Ph: +64 6 879 8768 Website: www.deutz.co.nzPh: (03) 5459 7915 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Fairbourne EstateE-mail: [email protected] Web: www.greyrock.co.nz Ph: +64 (0) 21 946 371Web: www.taltarni.com.au PINOT NOIR Nepenthe Wines E-mail: [email protected] Wine Estates Limited Awatere River Wine Company Ph: (08) 8398 8888 Web: www.fairbourne.co.nzPh: (08) 8568 7318 Ph: +64 3 575 7913 E-mail: [email protected] StoneleighE-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.nepenthe.com.au Ph: +64 9 336 8300Web: www.tweglobal.com Web: www.arwc.co.nz Ngatarawa Wines E-mail: [email protected] Edgemill Group Ph: +64 6 879 7603 Website: www.stoneleigh.co.nzHUNTER VALLEY Ph: (03) 9982 8700 E-mail: [email protected] Martinborough VineyardRobyn Drayton Wines E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.ngatarawawines.co.nz Ph: +64 6 306 9955Ph: (02) 4998 7523 Web: www.edgemill.com.au Norfolk Rise Vineyard E-mail: emma@E-mail: [email protected] Endeavor Vineyards/Catalina Sounds Ph: (08) 8768 5080 martinborough-vineyard.co.nzWeb: www.robyndrayton.com.au Ph: +64 3 579 6148 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.martinborough-vineyard.co.nzTwo Rivers (Hunter Valley NSW) E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.norfolkrise.com.au Villa Maria Estate LtdPh: (02) 6547 2556 Web: www.catalinasounds.co.nz Ph: +64 9 255 1754E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: www.tworiverswines.com.au Web: www.villamaria.co.nz144 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013

correction to the grant burge feature in WINESTATE winestate september/october 2013 issue.it was incorrectly stated that grant burge SeUvBSeCRnIBtERs with ian wilson won the jimmy watson in TRADE ONLY 2012, when in fact it was 1980 that this Friday 15 November 2013 award was received. www.grantburgewines.com.au Wine of the Year Industry AwardsWINESTATEINDEPENDENT Adelaide Convention Centre, AdelaideTRADE MISSIONS Friday 22 November, 2013Cost effective InternationalSales Missions - Suitable for Wine of the Year Awardsyour Annual EDG spend.Our independent trade missions Cotter House, Auckland, NZtarget the top tier of the wine 1pm - 3pmmarket at a very cost effective price.To discuss your participation contact 1 February 2014Peter Jackson +61 457 834 880or [email protected] The Wines of South Africa Terrace Ballroom, Hyatt Regency, Perth 6pm - 8.30pm 7 February 2014 Best of the West Terrace Ballroom, Hyatt Regency, Perth 6pm - 8.30pm Friday 4 April 2014 Cabernet & Bordeaux National Wine Centre, Adelaide 6pm - 8 pm Friday 30 May 2014 Worlds Greatest Shiraz/Syrah Challenge IX National Wine Centre, Adelaide 6pm - 8 pm Please register at www.winestate.com.au for invitations and updates! Subscribers are entitled to one free ticket for each subscriber event To order tickets please contact Peter Jackson [email protected] November/December 2013 W I N E S TAT E 145

aftertasteELISABETH KINGCELEBRITY SELLS IN THE WORLD OF WINECELEBRITY wines have a lot in common with up all the vineyards belonging to the original Celebrity wines aren’t a homogenoustheir fragrance counterparts beyond the fact property established by Gustav Niebaum, category for several reasons. Apart from thethat both are liquids. Some are hits while an Alaskan fur trader. Now a full-blown obviousappealoftaxbenefits,somecelebritiesothers vanish without trace. Low-key projects resort and spa, a day spent at Coppola’s are long-time wine lovers like Sam Neill, whosuch as Chateau Madge, a four varietal expansive property drinking a Diamond ownsTwoPaddocksvineyardinCentralOtago.collection linked to the album Confessions Series Black Label Claret overlooking the The Kiwi star’s main aim is to develop the beston a Dance Floor, are still humming along Alexander Valley is time well spent. pinot noir in the world. While celebs like Drewbut didn’t attract a lucratic licensing deal Barrymore, Antonio Banderas and Fergiefor Madonna. Yet Marilyn Merlot, adorned Wine purists may sniff but in many views wine as extensions of their establishedwith the blonde bombshell’s iconic visage, ways celebrity vinos are little different to lifestyle brands.has been a strong seller for nearly 30 years. marketing wines under novelty names such as Big Fat Toad or Low-Bellied Snake. Over the past 10 years, the quality of Other celebrity-linked wines date back A celebrity name on the label makes many celebrity wine has greatly improved.decades, too. Fred MacMurray, vintage star people, particularly younger drinkers, more There’s a good reason for this saysof The Absent-Minded Professor and the comfortable with wine. There can even be Nielsen. Interestingly, celebrity wines do1960’s sitcom, My Three Sons, was among unintended success. Hollywood agent, Marty not necessarily receive a lot more retailthe first actors to get into viticulture when he Erlichman, founded Celebrity Cellars in 1997 paparazzi support. Fifty per cent of celebritybought a ranch in Sonoma in 1941. A noted andthecompany’sfirstprojectwastobecalled wine volume is sold on promotion - about thegourmet cook and wine lover, MacMurray’s “Dead Red”, linked to rockers The Ungrateful same as the table wine category as a whole.607ha spread was bought by the Gallo wine Dead. Unfortunately, the lead singer Jerryfamily in 1996 and they open the doors to the Garcia died in a rehab clinic just before the Many celebrities, not just Sam Neill, arepublic only once a year during the Sonoma launch date. Undeterred, Erlichman released also getting more involved rather than justWine Country Weekend in August. In the a non-alcoholic wine with the late frontman’s slapping their name on a label. Chateaurefurbished barn, you can view a series of nameonitandrecordedsalesof35,000cases. Miraval is the product of a partnershiphistoric photos showing the amiable actor between Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt and thedirecting the evolution of the ranch from Erlichman followed through with labels Perrin family, fifth generation winemakers athops through livestock and vines. Plum in the bearing the likenesses of Frank Sinatra, Chateau de Beaucastel, one of Chateauneuf-middle, as MacMurray would have said, of Barbra Streisand, Neil Diamond, the Rolling du-Pape’s finest domaines. Then there’sSonoma’s coveted Russian River Valley, wine Stones and KISS. The feisty entrepreneur Andrea Boccelli. The scion of an Italian wine-club members gain access four times a year to believes that the contents of the bottles making family, the renowned tenor workedsip top-class reds such as Gallo’s MacMurray aren’t the point as only one in five buyers in the vineyards as a boy and helped hisRanch Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. of his celeb wines own up to drinking father and brother in the cellars. As a direct them. Yet Erlichman’s experience might result of his worldwide fame, Boccelli Family The Fess Parker Winery and Vineyard on be a minority one says Nielsen. The global Wines has gained a new lease of life andCalifornia’s Central Coast was founded by the market researcher says there are close to can now afford to employ professionals tolaconic star of Davy Crockett and the Daniel 100 celebrity wines currently on the market dramatically increase the quality of bottlingsBoone TV series. But for younger generations and the sector is growing. such as Boccelli Rosso Toscana. Priced atunfamiliar with Parker’s folksy style, the $20 - the average price for celebrity wines-upscale property was given a second shot According to Danny Brager, vice president it’s well worth singing about.at fame in 2004 when it “starred” as Frass for alcoholic beverages at Nielsen,Canyon in the wine road trip movie, Sideways, thousands and thousands of wines areas the place Paul Giammati’s character Miles available and having a recognisable namespat the dummy over the spit bucket. on the label like David Beckham, Sting and Mick Fleetwood can deliver a major boost. Francis Ford Coppola, director of The “Just breaking through the clutter can beGodfather and Apocalypse Now, planted hugely difficult,” says Brager “and I thinkroots, so to speak, in Inglenook, California, that’s where a recognised name just in andin 1975. He spent the next 30 years buying of itself can help achieve cut-through.”n e x t i s s u e : It’s that time of year again! Our Special Wine of the Year Awards feature showcasing the best wines from 2013. Plus, Queensland, dry riesling, sauvignon blanc & blends, and pinot gris/grigio.146 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013

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