Winestate Magazine November December 2013

melbournegrapevine HILARY McNEVINThere’s an interesting juxtaposition going The calibre of staff is solid here and this is up of materials from the group’s previouson in Melbourne. Casual burgers, tacos and also evident in the drinks list with a selection restaurants, with wooden beams from The“dude food” are still going strong; there are of drops, both local and international, that Press Club (now Gazi) and white stools andnew places opening all the time dedicated are from small, boutique producers. The Oregon pine from their Kew restaurant Stto “quality fast food”, but at the same time choice of beers follows the ethos of quality Katherine’s. The artwork, depicting travelthere’s a lovely movement dedicated to skill and craft. The bar is a lovely spot for a quiet and arrival by boat and plane is by streetand technique, places that are being well- glass of wine. The contemporary style of artist Dan Wenn. You can eat in (there are nosupported showing that while we do love dishes fly in the face of much of the casual bookings) or take away (not just souvlakis buta burger or souvlakis we also love carefully food that’s popular at the moment. A pullet meats and salads) and while the drinks list isconsidered produce, treated by qualified egg with mushrooms, parmesan, goats very short, it fits the bill here perfectly - casual,chefs who’ve studied their craft. Chef Scott curd and black rice is ripe with soft velvety approachable and affordable. 113 St David St,Pickett, who owns The Estelle in Northcote texture and savoury flavours, or a veal cheek Fitzroy; phone (03) 9416 0060.with fellow chef Ryan Flaherty, has gone with hand-rolled macaroni, miso eggplantinto business with another chef, Joe Grbac, and almonds is decidedly comforting and The beautiful Como gardens haveto open Saint Crispin’s in Collingwood, in has quickly become a signature dish. reopened at Como House in South YarraMelbourne’s inner-north. Grbac was head A dessert of poached rhubarb, burnt and in conjunction with this is the openingchef at George Calombaris’s The Press custard and blood orange is a seasonal of the cafe The Stables at Como. It’sClub for six years and both he and Pickett mix of sweet acid and slight bitterness; operated by the team at Ickey and Igbyare former colleagues, working together at it’s a pleasure, as is the Saint Crispin’s which also owns the cafes Friends of Minethe highly regarded London restaurant, The experience as a whole. 300 Smith St, in Richmond, Balwyn’s Snow Pony andSquare, with acclaimed chef Philip Howard. Collingwood; phone (03) 9419 2202. Porgie and Mr Jones in Hawthorn.The room at Saint Crispin’s is smart, with barebrick, dark leather banquettes and moody George Calombaris has done it again. This is a pretty setting for a delightfullighting sitting against lots of white, with some With his restaurant group in Melbourne, the cafe, open every day of the year (exceptmuted tones for warmth and depth. Made Establishment Group, which own Gazi Christmas day) for breakfast and lunch in the city, Brunswick’s Hellenic Republic and but don’t expect traditional four-pointed The menu is straightforward in that there Mama Baba in South Yarra, he has opened sandwiches. Their version of a ham,is a lovely list of snacks - eel croquettes, cheese and tomato toastie is a San Danielesalted cod or the decadent treat called Jimmy Grant’s, a fast, furious and very urbanSnack, Crackle, Pop which is fried pig fat, souvlaki bar. Jimmy Grant was the nickname proscuitto, smoked tomato and mozzarellathat gets its name from when you bite into given to immigrants in the 1950s (immi-grant “stracciatella” piadini and salads mayit, it’s dangerously moreish. became Jimmy Grant) and Calombaris has include spiced chickpea, cauliflower and taken the old-school idea of the classic Persian feta salad with organic quinoa Then the menu moves into set-menu souvlaki and embraced it but also turned it and toasted nuts. But they also make aterritory, with a choice of four entrees, mains on its head. The Bonegilla souvlaki, named delicious Devonshire tea and high tea, andand desserts. Customers may choose two after a camp where immigrants first arrived can organise a picnic to take and enjoyor three courses for a set price. If you want in Australia, is filled with lamb, chicken, fries, in the house’s peaceful, impeccably keptto go all out, there’s a chef’s menu that is a mustard, onion and parsley or there’s the grounds. Corner Williams Rd and Lechladevaried degustation chosen from the menu Patris souva, filled with prawns, attiki honey, Ave, South Yarra; phone (03) 9827 6886.by the chef. The food is thoughtful, textured, cucumber, mint and coriander; it’s a deliciousseasonal and beautifully presented. mix of sweet and savoury. The room is made Left: St Crispin interior. Centre: Wagyu bresaola, shallot rings, purple cauliflower and hay ash. Right: Scott Pickett and Joe Grbac. November/December 2013 W I N E S TAT E 51

sydneygrapevineELISABETH KINGTHE Oaks in Neutral Bay has done more gourmet toppings such as mixed wild the flourless chocolate cake. Cipro Pizzathan online dating sites to ignite the flames mushrooms, garlic, mozzarella and truffle a taglio, 9/21 Fountain St, Alexandria;of love among Sydney couples since oil. I love pub classics done well and phone (02) 9698 4183.the 1970s. And following a $4 million the grilled Cumberland sausages withrenovation, it’s certain this most sociable creamy mash, caramelised onion and I’VE virtually stopped reading someof pubs will continue to hold sway as gravy hit the sweet spot. One of the most restaurant review sites because some ofone of the Lower North Shore’s most popular introductions is the Meatorium, the rants are suspect or many complain thatcherished institutions. The first stage of the an in-house butcher offering top quality they are not able to use multiple discountmakeover, the reinvigorated bistro and bar meats you can cook yourself or allow coupons to dine on the cheap. I say thisand grill, opened in July. Just in time for the chefs to do the honours. The David because several people have bagged anspring, the Garden Pavilion re-emerged in Thomas Selection of steaks veers from Indian restaurant I have enjoyed for years -late September - lush with artfully placed Wagyu rump grain-fed to Scotch fillet Holy Cow. No, it’s not the Rambagh Palacegreenery and spiffy new furnishings. grass-fed - both bargains at $28 and in Jaipur but the naan and tandoori areOn the cold and wet Thursday night we $25 for 300g. I could hardly squeeze in never less than excellent. And perennialdropped by, the bar and grill was packed. dessert so we shared the passionfruit favourites such as lamb vindaloo, malaiDiners of all ages were enjoying the buzzy creme brulee with passionfruit gelato. kofta and the Goan fish curry are goodatmosphere, fuelled by a carefully crafted But many others were happy to wait for enough for homesick Poms who moan thatmenu created by celebrity chef Danny the obligatory 15 minutes to plunge their Indian restaurants in Sydney can’t competeRusso. The Oaks has been in business spoons into the soft-centred chocolate with curry and balti houses back home.since 1885 but its iconic reputation has fondant served with hazelnut gelato. Holy Cow, 456 Cleveland St, Surry Hills;been built up by the Thomas family, The Oaks, 118 Military Rd, Neutral Bay; phone (02) 9698 9220.who bought the hotel 40 years ago. A phone (02) 9953 5515.wine wall fills a large wedge of space SYDNEY’S Inner West came up trumpsand owner Andrew Thomas offers wines DAYTIME diners should bookmark in the 2013 Time Out restaurant awardsfrom storied labels like Henschke for very Cipro Pizza al taglio which shuts its and culinary standards from Sydney’sreasonable mark-ups. The range of craft doors at 8pm. Pizza is front and centre best restaurant of the year - Sixpennybeers and ciders also make The Oaks a here, where slabs are displayed Italian at Stanmore - to corner cafes are high.magnet for listings such as James Squire Excelsior Jones, run by AnthonyOne Fifty Lashes, Stone and Wood Jasper style in a glass cabinet. The unlikely Svilicich and James Naylor (ex LeAle and White Rabbit White Ale. When the duo behind this laidback diner are two Monde in Surry Hills), has become all-upgrade of The Oaks was first announced, graduates of Neil Perry’s Rockpool - day breakfast central. But a cult taste hasentrenched fans feared that the tradition Khan Danis and Catherine Adams. developed for one of the best burgers inof patrons cooking their own steaks would You may have to pay at the counter but town - a patty of grass-fed Black Angusbite the dust as the pub tried to compete the high style of the warehouse space beef, topped with gruyere, tomato relishwith the nearby trendy wine bars. But, no. is punctuated with lacquer tables and and aioli, and dished up with a side ofPublic classics and DIY fry-ups exist nicely chairs, banquettes lining the walls and roast potatoes. Ditto the lime and coconutbeside such upmarket menu offerings as an open kitchen. There’s a tightly edited milkshake and Callebaut brownies.winter vegetable salad with witlof, goat’s list of Italian wines and beers to wash Excelsior Jones, 139A, Queen St,cheese and herb dressing. Oysters are down the pizzas and homemade soups. Ashfield; phone (02) 9799 3240.very popular - Kilpatrick Mornay or natural Adams’ desserts are as much of a lurewith shallot and red wine vinaigrette. I as they were at Rockpool, particularly Left: The Oaks Hotel interior.plumped for the ocean trout gravlax with Right: The Oaks Bar & Grill classic cheese burger.baby capers, radish, horseradish andfresh dill, and my fellow diner couldn’t gopast the garlic prawns with chilli, basil andgrilled bread - and not for old time’s sake.All of the very upscale burgers are servedon a brioche bun. Oysters aren’t the onlyshellfish to get star billing. Mussels servedwith frites, bread and Dijon mustardmayonnaise - Provencale, Au Congo andin White Wine - are also a smash-hit. Fancya pizza? Forget a leaden wedge coveredwith cheese and tomato and choose from52 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013

brisbanegrapevine LIZZIE LOELChop Chop Chang was the first monkey meat is sweet and spicy all at once. Wholeto enter space and he’s generously lent his Mooloolabah prawns are jumping out ofname to a fabulous new dining locale in the their crispy, sticky little shells and, dippedheart of West End in Brisbane’s inner south. into namn jim, they exude the freshness ofWest End is arguably the most ethnically an early ocean dip and are plump, spicyfoodie hotspot right now and most of it and wonderful. There’s a crisp musselis casual, accessible and attractive to all omelette that is unusual but works reallyage groups. And this addition - on the site well as does turmeric marinated chickenof the former Music Cafe - is significant which is barbequed to a charry edge. Thebecause chef Paul Blain is consulting “bowls” section has a couple of stars as welland making sure the menu is expansive, - masterstock poached pork belly is slicedinteresting and really delicious. Blain has over thin egg noodles and wilted Asianan illustrious history with Thai food, which greens, and the broth is sweet, savoury andincludes stints with David Thompson in very light. There’s a small modern AsianSydney and his own ventures, Chilli Jam dessert menu or you can finish with a “karmaThai in Noosa and the beautiful retreat and cookie” which are just 50c and proceeds gorestaurant called Tamarind, which he built to different local charities voted for via socialand operated in Maleny. media. 185 Boundary St, West End; phone (07) 3846 7746. It’s a big room and one side of it is linedwith slatted wood communal tables. It used Il Locale is another newbie in the heart ofto be a bank and there’s a room at the front the Rosalie village, a shopping and eatingthat used to be the vault that is now a semi- hub that has several new venues wedgedprivate room of sorts. The other side of the in between some well loved cafes andfront area is a cluster of tables for small ethnic venues. It’s a third venue for thenumbers and then there’s a huge bar, which Tognini family who also operate the veryserves everything from Tom Yum Collins popular eponymous cafe/deli in Milton andto Zen Sangria. The menu, which is laid Trattoria in Spring Hill but unlike the first run by ex-Il Centro chef Romain Bapst.out on the place mat and has navigational two, there is no deli involved, just indoor/ The room overlooks the Brisbane hills anddirections, is extensive and well thought out. outdoor dining, a wood fired pizza oven is classically furnished with crisscross-Take the advice about where to start and and huge antique wooden doors that make backed bistro chairs and crisp white linenorder up a storm - there are so many dishes the entry spectacular. It’s a casual vibe with tablecloths covered with white paper.but they are not enormous - you must share an interesting menu - think rosemary and Service is formal and friendly and, if notthis menu, as this is how Blain has designed lemon poached quail, crunchy zucchini for the quintessentially Queensland view ofit. Divided into sections called “temple flowers stuffed with ricotta and spaghetti cottages nestled into the trees, you could bestalls” and “hawker’s bbq stall”, “walkabout alla vongole as well as a slew of bianca and mistaken for thinking you’d been teleportedcart” and “bowls”, there are no entrees and rosso based pizzas. 21 Nash St, Rosalie; to the Alsace region. The massive menu ismains per se but prawn and corn cakes phone (07) 3368 2122. deeply French but dishes are delivered in afrom the walkabout cart are scrumptious, modern edge. Burgundy snails in fricassee,the corn pops in your mouth and the prawn Over the hill in leafy Bardon is Lutece, Flemmekueche, the traditional tart of the a French/Alsatian fine diner owned and Alsace and oysters in champagne sabayon are some of the more classic dishes, while king prawns wrapped in brik pastry, mousseline of scampi and fried artichokes, and market fish with honey, ginger, fennel and coriander adds in Oriental and Middle Eastern elements. Souffles are baked in a copper pot, the chocolate comes with espresso ice cream and the grand marnier has orange. 1/60 MacGregor Tce, Bardon; phone (07) 3161 1858. Left: Chop Chop Chang’s interior. Right: Chop Chop Chang’s Asian punch Cup Chai Lai Lai and table setting. November/December 2013 W I N E S TAT E 53

winewords S T E V E N M A R S H A L L M PSKYE MURTAGHThe next few months promise to be wines and over the years I got to I agree that our wine’s fantastic reputationextremely busy ones for South Australia’s sample a wide range of varieties - deserves to be maintained.Liberal leader and Member for Norwood, good and bad. He had a fantasticSteven Marshall MP - in the lead-up to SA’s knowledge about wine and when What’s your vision for SA’s wine industryState Election in March. No doubt he’ll be I look back at it now, I essentially - from a national perspective?hoping to take a well-deserved day off from got a wine appreciation course SA has the best wine industry in the nationelectioneering on Christmas Day - or maybe for free! and, indeed, the world. Our wine continuesnot! Here we find out how the self-confessed to be recognised internationally withwine enthusiast, with family connections How have your wine tastes countless awards and prizes. We need toto the winemaking sector in SA, plans to personally changed over explore new markets for growth and export,celebrate Christmas - and what he’s hearing the years and what’s your and continue to build on our reputation asas the big issues challenging the State’s favourite varietal these days? the nation’s premier wine making state. I’dwine industry at a local and global level. In the past, I’ve never really also like to grow the number of jobs in the had a particular varietal that I sector, beyond the 4200 people workingTell us about your first wine experience gravitated towards, but these in the vineyards and the 6500 in wineries.- was it good, bad or indifferent? days I enjoy a glass or two ofWhen I was growing up, I had a fantastic pinot noir from the Adelaide …. and from a global perspective?neighbour who introduced me to wine. He Hills. It’s a light style of wine and The 18 wine regions of SA are worldworked at the local bottle shop at West the perfect accompaniment to a renowned, including the Barossa, theLakes and had an impressive collection of risotto or pasta. The winemakers Coonawarra, Clare Valley, McLaren Valewines at his home. He loved to share his in the Adelaide Hills really are and the Adelaide Hills. These regions skilled and passionate about produce a product that is in high demand what they do and should be on the international market and we need to proud of the high quality pinots do all we can to support local winemakers they are producing. in their bid to access and develop these emerging markets, particularly in the Asia- As a politician, how do you Chinese area where there’s substantial remain in touch with the issues interest in our product. The good news facing the wine industry right is that wine exports from South Australia now and what do you hear as are worth $1.14 billion. In fact wine is the being the biggest challenges fourth highest export sector in our state. to overcome? We can be proud of what we’ve achieved The Liberal Party is lucky to and confident we will continue to build on have a number of regional MPs whose this success. electorates cover some of South Australia’s wine regions, so they’re in constant contact Earlier this year you toured SA’s with their local industries and keep me Riverland and visited several wineries. personally informed of what they’re hearing What do you see as unique about this on the ground. Last year I also organised region and how can sustainable growth a briefing with representatives from the be promoted here? different wine regions in Parliament House The Riverland is such a diverse region that to discuss their concerns with the industry. is increasingly producing better wines. I found the briefing very helpful and have During my visit in May, I saw firsthand kept these communication channels open. an emerging “alternative wine” industry. Having to cope with the highest taxes and Although it’s small, it’s complementing the charges in the nation hasn’t helped the wine image of the Riverland as the wine industry’s industry. This has damaged investment and rising star. These days, sustainable growth consumer confidence. Winemakers are is being managed by growing quality fruit producing a premium product and need and adopting wine-making techniques and deserve appropriate support from which complement the region’s brand. government. We also need to protect our Riverland grape growers are extremely wine brands from being falsified by cheap sustainable in their viticultural practices. imitations overseas. This is an issue that In fact, they’re world leaders with water was raised at my wine industry briefing and use efficiency.54 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013

Complete this sentence – “A good wine Currently, what’s the most coveted item THE WOLF BLASSis like …” in your wine collection? FOUNDATION… a great friendship - it can be trusted, I collected quite a lot of red wine in 1998it gets better with age and should never and 1999 - the years my two children Established 1994be wasted. were born. I’m particularly looking forward to opening Peter Lehmann’s Proudly SupportingWhere’s the most unusual place you've Stonewell Shiraz from those years. Mr •Australian Wine Education,ever consumed wine? Lehmann was known as “The Baron of •Viticultural, OenologicalI’d probably have to go back to my university the Barossa” - a fitting title for a man who Research & Development,days where I’m sure I probably consumed was a great champion of the region andwine in some unusual places, especially for our state. He lifted the profile of wine •Wine & Health,after end of year exams. Thankfully, my in South Australia and leaves behind a •Global Winememory has faded enough that nothing remarkable legacy. Industry Profilespecific comes to mind! What’s the best way of teaching phone +61 8 8232 5322What’s your favourite wine accessory? wine appreciation? [email protected] company in which it’s enjoyed. My My children were introduced to thefamily are all very close, so it’s great when industry from an early age. Their unclewe can all get together and enjoy a meal or is Andrew Nugent, who established Birda celebration with a bottle of wine. Having a in Hand wines in the Adelaide Hills, andset of good wine glasses helps, too! this family connection has allowed them to grow up appreciating the processesWhat’s one rule you follow when selecting of wine making - from planting grapes, towines for your own consumption? picking and crushing them. Soon, they’llI’ll use any opportunity to support local be at that age where they can enjoy thegrowers and producers in SA, and we’re so wine as well!lucky to have such diverse and world classwine regions, producing pinots, sauvignons, Name your favourite cellar doorshiraz and many other varietals. I’m not a experience anywhere and why does ittop shelf purchaser and I enjoy finding the stand out?hidden gems, those understated wines that I love sharing our state’s fabulous winedon’t stretch the budget and are a fantastic regions with interstate visitors and friends.accompaniment to any meal. One of my favourite cellar door experiences is the Clare Valley Gourmet Weekend. TheHow would you describe your own wine event has been celebrating the region’scollection and how do you select its stock? success for almost three decades. TheAt the moment, I’m really enjoying the cellar doors are full of atmosphere. It’sbody and flavour of Adelaide Hills’ pinot a fantastic way to enjoy great Southnoirs. But my modest collection has a bit Australian food, wine and music.of everything - mostly from this state. Sowhen I’m selecting wines, I don’t have to How do you normally celebratelook very far. My favourite rieslings come Christmas and is it a day to enjoy afrom the Clare Valley and many of the reds special bottle?I enjoy drinking come from the Barossa Christmas is a time when I like to getValley. Sometimes I’ll take a friend’s my family together and enjoy a home-recommendation on a good drop, but other cooked feast over a few bottles oftimes I prefer to visit a cellar door for some wine that I’ve been holding on to withtastings. I think the food and wine festivals great patience! I also like to celebratein our state are a fantastic way of learning the festive season with my staff andabout different varietals and supporting usually do so with Primo Estate’s Josephlocal growers and producers. The Fleurieu sparkling red. Last year I gave everyonePeninsula’s Sea and Vines festival is a in my office a bottle - not sure what I’llgreat example of a region promoting and do this year because my staff numbersgrowing itself. have grown significantly! November/December 2013 W I N E S TAT E 55

bookwormsCHARLES GENT1001 WHISKIES YOU MUST WINES OF THE NEW AUSTRALIAN WINETRY BEFORE YOU DIE SOUTH AFRICA: TRADITION VINTAGES, 31ST EDITION AND REVOLUTIONEdited by Dominic Roskrow By Rob GeddesPublished by Murdoch Books By Tim James RRP $34.95RRP $39.99 Published by University of California Press RRP $59.95 Australian Wine Vintages, aka “the GoldThis book not only lives up to the daunting Book”, is a familiar object to thousandsnumbers of its title, but also devotes a page With my only exposure to South African of serious Australian wine drinkers andto almost every whisky it showcases with, wine comprising a couple of bottles of collectors. First produced in 1979, it wasmore often than not, a handsome bottle sturdy red in the 1980s, this book is a the brain-child of wine enthusiast Robinshot. It is a paperback, but 1001 Whiskies is revelation. Wine has been made in South Bradley. His was one of the earliestnecessarily a 960-page monster weighing Africa for more than 300 years, and while attempts to provide a quality guide tonearly two kilos. Yet it’s no coffee-table journalist Tim James puts his focus on the Australia’s best known wines by rating aprop – the entries have straight information two most recent decades, his survey of his succession of vintages and advising onbracketed with tasting notes, produced country’s vineyards and wineries carries an optimum drinking windows.by a team of more than 20 professional intrinsic sense of their history.drink writers who invoke a heady range of With the growth of the industry, the oncedescriptors and metaphors to conjure up The 1994 political revolution in South Africa slender guide has evolved into a chunkytheir allotted drops. Try this: “On the palate, not only opened up its world markets, but hardback that rates some 3500 wines,charred oak, chicory, dark chocolate, also followed closely on the relaxation of the although it is still gilt and still pocket-sized.roasted root vegetables, ginger and salt. stranglehold on the industry of the national Stewardship of the book has recently passedEye watering intensity”. wine cooperative, KWV. James posits that the to the redoubtable Rob Geddes MW. result has been a flowering of winemaking as Accumulatively, the guide is a testament well as a search for a sense of identity that While heir to the inevitable problemsto the amazing diversity that is achieved threads a path between internationalisation on attending wine guides – missing wines andinternationally by unswerving devotion to the one hand and the realisation of South Africa’s wineries (no Seppelts, for instance) andproduct of distilled grain, yeast and water. terroir and vinous heritage on the other. ratings based on a single palate assessment Varietally, there will be winners and losers: – the profiles of the wineries are pithy and While Scotland naturally claims about while it seems only a matter of time before the astute, and Geddes is satisfyingly shrewdtwo-thirds of the entries, there are separate old Cape favourite pinotage finally disappears and stern with his marks.sections devoted to Ireland, the US, beneath a tide of shiraz and cabernet, SouthCanada, Japan, Europe and the Rest of the Africa’s long infatuation with its chenin blanc I still regret the passing of one distinctiveWorld. In the latter we find generous praise looks poised to spread to the rest of the world. feature: winemakers’ own ratings of theirfor 26 Australian whiskies, not only from the wines, quirkily given out of a maximumestablished distilleries of Tasmania, but In providing a highly readable guide to eight points. It was unavoidably subjective,also from Victoria’s Timboon and Bakery South Africa’s regions, James also gives us but you could quickly work out who wasHill. We’re also told there is some very good densely informative thumbnail portraits of credible and who was hyping.whisky to be had in India. 150 significant wineries. He does not claim to paint a comprehensive picture of wine in The 31st edition of the gold book is This admirable book is both enjoyable South Africa, but this fascinating volume will nonetheless excellent value and a worthyand instructive. Purchase a copy and start certainly do until one comes along. competitor to its larger-format rivals. Anyour sampling sooner rather than later. expanded version is also available as an app for mobile devices.56 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013

how we judge WINESTATE MAGAZINETASTING CRITERIA Independence of advertising Winestate will occasionally purchase ‘yardstick’ wines to be evaluated where we believe that these are of consumer or trade interest if these have not been entered by the wineries. In order to produce the biggest and best wine magazine, Winestate includes advertising; however, this is fiercely independent of any wine tasting editorial. Wine companies are advised of the blind tasting results and it is their choice to advertise if they wish. The judges’ decisions are final and these are published according to the judges’ scores, whetherstar rating system advertising is taken or not. The judges We take care in selecting our judges. But remember: judges are human and their ownOUR TASTINGS AND PUBLISHED ratings excellent wine; bronze is 15.5 and above preference will influence their scores. We useare designed with one thing in mind: to and represents good wine. A reasonable, judges with complementary backgroundsprovide a useful and genuine balanced sound everyday-drinking wine scores 15 and a three-person panel for each flight willguide on wines to our readers. In order to (but does not gain a medal). A bland but include winemakers with technical expertiseachieve this we follow certain procedures clean wine scores 14. Below this score there and often a marketing/retail expert whoin an activity that is notoriously difficult! are unpleasant flavours. These final ‘medals’ knows consumer tastes. Often one or moreThere are regular criticisms of wine shows are then converted into a star rating system of the judges are Masters of Wine with vastand various scoring systems; here is how for publication in Winestate. A gold means international experience, and most judgeswe approach our tastings. 5 stars, silver is 4, and bronze is 3 stars. have experience at major Australian wineA wide selection of wines The biggest judging system shows. We are also aware of expertise. If we are judging a region, for example,Wines are invited from any producer, Winestate examines on average more we will have a winemaker judge from thatprovided that they meet the criteria of the Australasian wines per year than any other region because that person knows the localclass being judged. The class may be a forum - more than 10,000. Compare this to the style. We may balance that with a judge fromregional or style tasting and generally the biggest show in Australia, the Royal Melbourne outside the region and generally someonewines must be available for consumers to Wine Show, with just over 4000 entries. with broad and mature experience.purchase, although we have museum andrare wine tastings as well. how we compareAwarding scores Winestate Wine show International 100 Point Rating MedalWinestate carries out the judging Comment Gold 20 Point System Systemusing Australian capital city wine show HHHHH Outstanding High Silverprocedures; the wines are not known to HHHH1/2 Excellent Silver 18.5 - 20 98 - 100the judges. The three judges taste the HHHH Very Goodwines blind and assign a score without 18 - 18.4 96 - 97 17 - 17.9 94 - 95reference to each other. Only then do they HHH1/2 Good/Very Good High Bronze 16.5 - 16.9 92 - 93compare scores, and if there is dissension HHH 15.5 - 16.4 90 - 91they re-taste the wines and come to an Good Bronzeagreement. Scores are compiled using the20-point international system: a gold is 18.5 Wine judging is an inexact art, not a science - even at the highest levels of proficiency.and above; silver is 17 and above and is Accordingly, Winestate uses the star rating system which reflects a range, rather than a specific point score. Point systems indicate a level of accuracy that simply does not exist. November/December 2013 W I N E S TAT E 57

W H AT ’ S I T WO RT H ? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium.AUSTRALIAN 1996 $300 2002 $85  2004 $90 1960 $1,500 Bin 60A WINES 1997 $200 2005 $75 1961 $1,600 1962 $4,000 1998 $260 2003 $65 2006 $70 1962 $1,600 2004 $490  1999 $260 2004 $70 2007 $85 1963 $1,100 2006 $400 2000 $270 2005 $65 2008 $70 1964 $1,100 2001 $290 2006 $70 2009 $75 1965 $550  Stonewell ShirazBASS PHILLIP 2002 $300  Hill of Grace 1966 $900  1990 $90 2003 $200 1980 $250 1967 $600 1991 $70Premium Pinot Noir 2004 $350 2007 $55 1981 $230 1968 $550  1992 $60 2005 $230 2008 $55 1982 $220 1969 $550 1993 $651990 $75 2006 $250 1983 $220 1970 $400 1994 $551991 $90 2007 Not Released 1984 $210 1971 $720 1995 $551992 $95 2008 Not Released GIACONDA 1985 $280 1972 $400 1996 $70 2009 Not Released Chardonnay 1986 $320 1973 $400 1997 $551993 $80 2010 $200 1990 $110 1987 $220 1974 $450 1998 $801994 $110 2011 Not Released 1988 $300 1975 $400 1999 $751995 $80 2012 $210 1991 $60 1989 $260 1976 $600 2000 $70 1992 $85 1990 $460 MOSS WOOD 1977 $400 2001 $651996 $110 1993 $90 1991 $400 Cab Sauv 1978 $400 2002 $701997 $140 CLONAKILLA 1992 $250 1979 $380 2003 $551998 $140 Shiraz Viognier 1994 $100 1993 $260 1990 $130 1980 $360 2004 $85 1990 $65 1995 $85 1994 $340 1991 $150 1981 $400 2005 $601999 $120 1993 $65 1996 $140 1995 $300 1992 $120 1982 $370 2006 $602000 $120 1994 $85 1996 $460 1993 $100 1983 $440 2007 $552001 $160 1995 $65 1997 $95 1997 $320 1994 $100 1984 $350 2008 $60 1996 $100 1998 $125 1998 $420 1995 $130 1985 $3802002 $145 1997 $130 1999 $120 1999 $380 1996 $120 1986 $520 Basket Press2003 $110 1998 $150 2001 $360 1997 $100 1987 $350 Shiraz2004 $140 1999 $55 2000 $110 2002 $440 1998 $150 1988 $350 2000 $90 2001 $110 2004 $380 1999 $130 1989 $360 1990 $1502005 $80 2001 $130 2002 $160 2005 $370 2000 $110 1990 $540 1991 $1402007 $130 2002 $130 2006 $340 2001 $130  1991 $460 1992 $952008 $85 2003 $120  2004 $190 2002 $90  1992 $360 1993 $75  2004 $120  2005 $120 Armagh Shiraz 2003 $90  1993 $360 1994 $90 2005 $110 1990 $200 2004 $100  1994 $380 1995 $90 2009 $85 2006 $100 2006 $120 1991 $180 2005 $100  1995 $370 1996 $1602010 $90 2007 $160  1992 $120 2006 $65 1996 $500 1997 $952011 $100 2008 $90 2007 $100 1993 $110 2007 $85  1997 $360 1998 $190 2009 $110  2008 $140 1994 $130 2008 $90 1998 $580 1999 $110  2010 $95 2009 Not Released 1995 $130 2009 $85 1999 $400 2000 $90  BINDI 2011 $75 2010 $130 1996 $180 2010 Not Released 2000 $420 2001 $95 Block 5 Pinot Noir 1997 $150 2011 $90 2001 $370 2002 $120 1997 $80 Meshach 1998 $230 2002 $450 2003 $1001998 $95 1990 $100  1999 $130  MOUNT MARY 2003 $400 2004 $1001999 Not Released 1991 $85 2000 $120 Quintet 2004 $460 2005 $1002000 $150 1992 $80 2001 $140 2005 $420 2006 $110 2001 $120 1993 $70 2002 $190  1990 $150 2006 $510 2007 $95 2002 $110 1994 $90 2004 $140 1991 $120 2007 $420 2008 $952003 $85 1995 $70 2005 $120 1992 $110 2008 $620 2009 $752004 $110  2006 $160 1993 $95  2010 $752005 $140 2007 $95 1994 $110 2006 $100  1996 $90  1995 $100 THREE RIVERS/2007 $120  Chardonnay 1996 $120 Chris Ringland2008 $120  1997 Not Released Art Series 1997 $120  Wines Shiraz2009 $90 1998 $110 1998 $160 1990 $5202010 $95 1999 $90 1990 $60 1999 $130 1991 $6902011 $85  1991 $60 2000 $120 1992 $600 1992 $70 2001 $110 1993 $700 BROKENWOOD Cabernet Merlot 2000 $70 1993 $65 2002 $130  1994 $650 Graveyard Shiraz 1999 $95 2001 $110 1994 $85 2003 $110 1995 $450 1990 $90 2000 $65 2002 $95 1995 $100 2004 $140  1996 $830 1991 $110  2001 $120 2003 $60 1996 $65 2005 $120 1997 Not Released 1992 Not Released 2002 $90  1997 $90 2006 $120  1998 $850 1993 $80 2003 $90 1998 $70 2007 $90  1999 $600 1994 $80 2004 $90 2004 $70 1999 $75 2008 $95 2000 $450 1995 $70 2005 $85 2005 $65 2000 $75 2009 Not Released 2001 $800 1996 $95 2006 $70 2006 $65 2001 $80 2010 $85 2002 $800 1997 $85 2007 $100  2007 Not Released 2002 $75 2003 $500 1998 $110 2008 $90 2008 $85 2003 $80 Bin 95 Grange Bin 707 1999 $90 2009 $90  1951 $46,000 1990 $220 2000 $110  2010 $80 1952 $17,000 1991 $220 2001 $80 GREENOCK CREEK 1953 $14,000 1992 $180 2002 $75 ELDERTON Roennfeldt Rd 1954 $10,000 1993 $180 2003 $80 Command Shiraz Shiraz 1955 $3,800  1994 $200  2004 $80 1990 $120 1956 $14,000  1995 Not Released 2005 $85 1991 Not Released 1995 $280 1957 $12,000 1996 $220 2006 $110  1992 $100 1996 $260 1958 $4,100 1997 $190 2007 $90 1993 $65 1997 $160 1959 $2,000 1998 $260 2008 Not Released 1994 $80 1998 $350 1999 $200 2009 $85 1995 $75 1999 $180 2000 Not ReleasedCLARENDON HILLS 1996 $95 2000 $220 2001 $190 1997 $70 2001 $240 2002 $180 Astralis Shiraz 1998 $95 2002 $300 2003 Not Released 1994 $200 1999 $70 2003 $200 2004 $200 1995 $200  2004 $210 2005 $200 2005 $230 2006 $180 2006 $260 2007 $160 2008 $190 2000 $65 2009 $180 2001 $65 2010 $280 58 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH TRANSTHERMCellaring Your Fine Wines in Perfect Conditions 2002 $2,000 2003 Not Released 2004 $2,000 Shiraz 2005 $5,700  E. Guigal La Turque1990 $145 2006 $2,100 Hermitage1991 $130 2007 $1,8001992 $80 2008 $3,000 1990 $8001993 $90 1991 $4801994 $120 1992 $2701995 $95 1993 $2401996 $160  Louis Roederer Chateau 1994 $3001997 $90 Cristal d’Yquem Sauternes 1995 $5001998 $150 1996 $2601999 $95 1990 $550 1990 $800 1997 $3202000 $70 1993 $220 1991 $450 1998 $7002001 $100 1994 $340 1993 $340 1999 $6602002 $150 1995 $300 1994 $360 2000 $4202003 $95 1996 $440 1995 $550 2001 $5202004 $120 1997 $450  1996 $540 2002 $4502005 $130 1999 $340 1997 $490 2003 $8502006 $130 2000 $340 1998 $400 2004 Not Released2008 $100 2002 $300 1999 $520 2005 $6002009 $130 2004 $240  2000 $600 2006 $7502010 $120 Chateau Mouton 2001 $900 2002 $500 Rothschild 2003 $600 1990 $600 2004 $500  Gaja Barbaresco 1991 $550  2005 $650 1990 $330 1992 $230 2008 $600 1991 Not Released 1993 $700  1992 Not Released 1994 $340 1993 $210 Para Liqueur 1995 $520 Domaine 1994 $2601878 $2,000 1996 $600 de la Romanee 1995 $2101879 $2,000  1997 $280 Conti La Tache 1996 $3001880 $1,000 1998 $420 1990 $7,400 1997 $5501881 $1,000 1999 $600 1991 $1,900 1998 $3001882 $1,000 2000 $1,150 1992 $1,250 1999 $2601887 $1,000 2001 $450 1993 $2,200  2000 $3101893 $1,000 2002 $480 1994 $1,600  2001 $2501899 $1,000 2003 $600 1995 $2,500 2002 Not Released1901 $650 2004 $550 1996 $2,700 2003 Not Released1908 $550 2005 $1,200  1997 $1,900 2004 $3101910 $450  2006 $780 1998 $2,200 2005 Not Released1922 $350 2008 Not Released 1999 $5,000 2007 $2401925 $600 2009 $2,000 2000 $1,5001927 $290 Chateau Latour 2001 $2,0001930 $140  1990 $1,250 2002 $2,800  Tenuta1933 $130  1991 $600 2003 $2,800 Dell’Ornellaia1939 $80 1992 $350 2004 $2,5001944 $70 1993 $440 2005 $4,500 Ornellaia1947 $55 1994 $460 2006 $1,700 1991 $320 1995 $750 2007 $1,200 1992 $105 IMPORTED 1996 $1,100 2008 $2,400 1993 $125 WINES 1997 $460 2009 $5,000 1994 $130 1998 $520 1995 $130 1999 $600 1996 $180 2000 $1,600  1997 $250Moet et Chandon 2001 $700 Domaine Armand 1998 $185 Cuvee Dom 2002 $600  Rousseau 1999 $200 Perignon 2003 $1,700  2000 $140 2004 $600 Chambertin 2001 $2601980 $220 2005 $1,300 Clos de Beze 2002 $2801982 $230 2006 $1,100  1990 $950 2003 $1501983 $180 2007 $750  1991 $200 2004 $1501985 $200 2008 $1,100 1992 $220 2005 Not Released1988 $260 1993 $600 2006 $1701990 $380 Chateau Petrus 1994 $500 2007 $2201992 $240 1990 $5,500 1995 $560 2008 $1501993 $260  1991 Not Released 1996 $650 2009 $1901995 $220 1992 $1,300 1997 $2801996 $280 1993 $1,000 1998 $4001998 $260 1994 $2,800  1999 $8001999 $190 1995 $1,900 2000 $320 Vega Sicilia Unico2000 $180 1996 $2,400  2001 $460  Gran Reserva2002 $200 1997 $1,000 2002 $6802003 $190 1998 $3,600 2003 $600 1990 $560 1999 $1,250 2004 $440  1991 $420 2000 $6,000 2005 $950 1994 $550 2001 $2,300 2006 $600 1995 $420 2007 Not Released 1996 $360 2009 $1,100 1998 $420 2010 $1,100 1999 $420 2000 $360 2002 $420 2003 $294  November/December 2013 W I N E S TAT E 59

wine investment & collectingAUCTION DATES Aruecptioonrts addition, two special auctions held during July and early August featuring a reduction LANGTON’S WINE LANGTON’S FINE WINE AUCTIONS in buyer’s premium proved irresistible to AUCTIONS & EXCHANGE (INTERIM THIRD-QUARTER MARKET astute bargain hunters, who came out in Weekly internet auctions REPORT, by ANDREA PRITZKER) droves to snap up significant quantities of October 29-November 5 Langton’s has entered the third quarter top-end burgundy and bordeaux. November 5-12 of 2013 in full swing. Over the past six November 12-19 weeks, a flurry of auctions featuring a With supplies of rare Australian classics November 19-26 diverse array of fine wine from all over the from the 1940s, ’50s and ’60s rapidly November 26-December 3 globe attracted significant buyer interest. In drying up, collectable Australian rarities December 3-10 continue to attract strong bidding. Some December 10-17 notable highlights of the quarter include December 17-January 7 a bottle of 1965 Lindemans Bin 3110 Shiraz achieving $1449 and a bottle of STERLING WINE AUCTIONS 1946 Seppelt Great Western Sparkling Auctions run every two weeks, Burgundy reaching $876. back-to-back, finishing on Wednesday evening. A special interest auction featuring fortified wines and spirits sparked interest ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS in old and rare vintage Australian port, November 12 (closes October 18) with a bottle of 1956 St Hallett’s Vintage December 3 (closes November 15) Port selling for $317 and a bottle of 1956 Hardy’s Museum Release Vintage Port GRAYSONLINE achieving $472. In a separate auction, Daily wine auctions, a bottle of Seppelt’s extraordinary 100 starting for $9 per case, with a 30-day Year Old Para Vintage port dating from money back guarantee. Fine wine 1891 set a new record, selling for $2303 auctions end Monday-Wednesday- -significantly eclipsing its previous 2006 Thursday each week. Port and spirit sale price of $747. auctions end on Tuesdays. Blue-chip Australian wine also continues CRACKA WINES to perform well, with a number of large Live wine auctions every day at format bottles going under the hammer. 1pm and 8pm on weekdays and Highlights include an imperial of 1990 8pm on weekends Katnook Estate Cabernet Sauvignon attaining $635 and an imperial of 1999 Grant (all dates subject to change, without notice)60 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013

wine investment & collectingBurge Meshach Shiraz achieving $864. is also picking up, indicated by two strong and that’s exactly what our buyers hadA 10-bottle gift set of Grant Burge Meshach results in recent sales: $1115 for a bottle their eye on at our July Premium sale, withalso sparked some competitive bidding, of 1990 Krug Clos du Mesnil Blanc de many fine, classic Australian fortifieds sold.selling for $1058. Bottles of 1982 Wynns Blancs Champagne and $2904 for a bottle Old and ancient offerings from ChateauJohn Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon are still of 1995 Krug Clos d’Ambonnay Brut Blanc Yaldara, Hardy’s Reserve Bin range,in a high demand, with one selling in the de Noirs Champagne. Mildara, Orlando - including the Very Oldpast few weeks for a remarkable $582, series, Penfolds, Rhinecastle and Seppelta price that is currently tracking above many The end of July saw a momentous - all cleared remarkably well.vintages of Penfolds Grange. occasion with the opening of our new state-of-the-art warehouse in Melbourne’s In my last few reports I’ve commented The market for Penfolds Grange remains Hoppers Crossing. The new facility is on there being a lull in the Penfoldsbuoyant, particularly for top vintages. now fully up and running, with fabulous market - well, it’s over. Good clearancesA magnum of 1998 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange technology that allows every bottle to can be reported for most of the prizedrecently achieved $1052 and a bottle of be tracked in its journey through auction. Bin Series’: 95, 138, 150, 389, 407, 60A,1963 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange fetched $1272 Although the closure of the Sydney 707 and RWT - with buyers intriguingly- a price likely at least partially due to its warehouse marks the end of an era, opting for many of the fresh, younganniversary vintage. Current vintage 2008 this move to centralised auctions is truly vintages on offer.Grange is also holding up very well on the exciting. With all the wine now in one place,secondary market, recently selling for $575. we will have Australia’s largest and most Another surprise, which emergedOther super-premium Penfolds wines are comprehensive selection of fine wine on from this sale, was that buyers wereperforming well, with a bottle of the ultra- offer every week for auction. Langton’s is particularly keen on a number of relativelyrare 1962 Penfolds Bin 60A Coonawarra celebrating its 25th anniversary this year young wine lots that were weeping.Cabernet Shiraz attaining $4600. and there’s a feeling of great energy and Conventional wisdom has been that, for momentum in the secondary market. With over the last year or so, buyers were On the imports side, the demand for many more exciting developments still in actively avoiding wines in this very sadtop-end bordeaux and burgundy shows no store this year, this momentum looks set condition. Not the case at this auction, as asign of abating. Domaine de la Romanee to continue. For more information visit large selection of relatively new PenfoldsConti (DRC) - once very scarce on the www.langtons.com.au. (all prices inclusive Bins that were sadly weeping cleared atsecondary market, is now a regular feature. of buyer’s premium.) the top-end of their reduced guides. All IAn offer of 5 per cent buyer’s premium can say is, drink up! You never will knowbrought out a significant number of top- ODDBINS WINE AUCTION how long they will hold up in the bottle.end buyers, who snapped up a magnum (JULY PREMIUM AUCTION REPORT,of 2007 DRC Romanee Conti for $13,651 by GRAHAM WRIGHT) Top hammer price honours for Australianand a bottle of 2009 DRC La Tache for It was certainly the weather for fortifieds wine in July went to a magnum of$3885. Demand for prestige champagne 1981 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange Shiraz (VVHS, original timber case) at $720,Oddbins Wine Auctioneers & Valuers of Wine Auctions www.oddbins.com.au Address: 33 Sunbeam Rd Glynde SA 5070Phone: (08) 8365 4722 Fax: (08) 8365 4788 Looking for Wine? Email: [email protected] Let Oddbins Wine Auctions show you how to buy wine in three easy steps… Step 1 - Call us about our subscriptions 08 8365 4722 Step 2 - View the wines online or posted catalogue - www.oddbins.com.au Step 3 - Set your budget & place your bids! - From 1 to 1,000 bottles With over 30 years experience... we do Best! It’s What November/December 2013 W I N E S TAT E 61

wine investment & collectingalthough it was good to see a bottle Of the imported wines on offer, while you may think you’ve run out ofof 1990 Henschke Hill of Grace Eden big dollars were paid for some pretty time because the auction clock says theValley Shiraz (VHS, minor cellar impressive and well-aged examples of auction is closed, your lots may still benicked back label) achieving $329 bordeaux, however this category was open. So try placing another bid as yourand rounding out the top-10 list. hampered by a general lack of lots on lot may be open. For more informationOther price highlights included a bottle offer. Apart from the ’82 Chateau Mouton visit www.oddbins.com.au. (all pricesof 2009 Penfolds Bin 169 Coonawarra Rothschild mentioned earlier, a bottle of quoted are exclusive of buyer’s premium.)Cabernet Sauvignon (screw cap) for 1966 Chateau Margaux 1er Cru Margaux$249, an exquisite 1982 Chateau Mouton (VHS, cellar stained label, cellar scuffed STERLING WINE AUCTIONRothschild 1er Cru Pauillac (minor capsule) fetched $530, while $500 was (REPORT, by LYNTON BARBER)cellar stained label) achieving $750 and paid for a 2006 Chateau Haut Brion 1er Cru Winter wine auctions have seen anJohnnie Walker’s flagship Blue Label Graves. Of the fortifieds, the runner-up to acceleration of a well-established marketKing George V Edition Blended Whisky the Johnnie Walker Blue Label King George covering all tastes and budgets. Various(boxed) fetching $450. My heartiest V was a bottle of 1962 Baron de Casterac large and small players have carpeted thecongratulations go to the buyer who Grand Millesime Armagnac (original timber place with wall-to-wall auctions - at least onefought it out to the bitter end in order to case) achieving $300. a week happening somewhere in Australia,achieve the winning bid for a rarely seen so the choice and range of options is huge.McWilliams Hanwood Tawny Port (cellar The cabernet end of the market was heldstained label) made up from the 1959, ’62 up by a large offering of Wynns Black labels However, let’s not get too comfortableand ’64 vintages. This customer had to from 1967 through to 2006 and the flagship with the choice and values coming fromgo 84 per cent above the top-end of the John Riddochs from the late 1980s, with auction, as the winds of change are blowing.guide to get the winning bid! early 1990s also clearing well. From a high a few years ago of almost $US1.10 the Australian Dollar has slipped As always, July’s auction buyers were At the end of our last few auctions, by over 20 per cent and the trend looks likealso keen on big, hearty styles which we received a few inquiries asking us a long-term position below $US0.90included 2001 Brokenwood Graveyard about the closing times of our auctions.Shiraz, Hardys Eileen Hardy Shiraz from the Closure of the auction is automatic and is This tedious fact isn’t just affecting1990s and the large offering of Henschke displayed at the top of the auction screen. your spending money in Bali. The door isMount Edelstone Shiraz, right up to the When the auction closes, our auction now again wide open for Australian wine2008 vintage. The new Wild Witch Shiraz system will check to see if there have producers to export to markets that justfrom Kellermeister, including the 2009 and been any bids placed within two minutes could afford our premiums over the past’10 vintages, also cleared well as did 1997 of closure. This is called listening time. If few years. The premiums, both locals andand 2006 Noon Reserve Shiraz and Wolf there has been activity, that is, continued imports, will dry up at retail and auction.Blass Platinum’s from 2006. bidding the auction for those lots will This won’t happen overnight but the remain open until the bidding stops. So, process will take months rather than years. AUCTIONWine Auctions onyour Smart Phone?Never miss a bid with the new Sterling WebApp for ALL smart phones.Go to www.sterlingwine.com.au to install on your phone or tablet.Sterling Wine Auctions STERLING WINEFree call 1800 800 959 AUCTIONS62 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013

42 DEGREES SOUTH A. RETIEF A.T. RICHARDSON ALKOOMI ALTA AMBERLEY AMELIA PARK ANGASPLAINS ANGOVE ANGUS THE BULL ANNIE’S LANE ARAMIS ARMCHAIR CRITIC ARRIVO ARROWFIELDARTWINE ASCELLA PURE ASHBROOK ASHTON HILLS B3 BADGER’S BROOK BAILLIEU BALGOWNIEBALLAST STONE BANROCK STATION BAROSSA VALLEY ESTATE BARWANG BARWICK BATHEBATTELY BATTLE OF BOSWORTH BAY OF FIRES BELGRAVIA BELLARMINE BEN POTTS BERESFORDBERTON BEST’S BIRD IN HAND BISCAY BLACKBILLY BLEASDALE BLUE PYRENEES BLUE TONGUEBOLD HEARTS BOTOBOLAR BOWEN ESTATE BRAND’S LAIRA BREAM CREEK BREATHING SPACEBRESS BRINDABELLA HILLS BROKENWOOD BROOKLAND VALLEY BROTHERS IN ARMS BROWNBROTHERS BROWNS OF PADTHAWAY BUNKERS BUTLER CREST BY FARR BYRNE CALEDONIAAUSTRALIS CAMPBELLS CANONBAH BRIDGE CAPE BARREN CAPE BERNIER CAPE JAFFA CAPEMENTELLE CAPE NATURALISTE CAPEL SOUND CAPEL VALE CAPERCAILLIE CASTELLI ESTATECASTLE ROCK ESTATE CATCH BILLY CATCHING THIEVES CHAIN OF PONDS CHALICE BRIDGE CHALKHILL CHAMBERS ROSEWOOD CHAPEL HILL CHARLES CIMICKY CHRISMONT CLARENDON HILLSCLAYMORE CLEMENS HILL CLOS CLARE CLOVER HILL COAL VALLEY COLDSTREAM HILLS COOBARACOOKS LOT CORAL SEA CORIOLE CORK CUTTERS CULLEN CUMULUS CURLEWIS CUTTAWAY HILLD’ARENBERG DAL ZOTTO DALWHINNIE DANDELION DAOSA DAVID HOOK DE BORTOLI DE IULIISDEAKIN DEEP WOODS DELATITE DERWENT DESTINATIONS DEVIATION ROAD DEVIL’S LAIRDEXTER DIAMOND VALLEY DOGRIDGE DOMAIN DAY DOMAINE A DOMAINE CHANDON DOMAINESTATIARRA DOWIE DOOLE DUNSBOROUGH HILLS DUTSCHKE EAGLE VALE EDENMAE EDWARDSELDERTON ELDRIDGE ESTATE ELMSLIE ENOOMAH BORE EPEROSA EVANS & TATE EYRE CREEKFABER VINEYARD FAIRBANK FARR RISING FEATHERTOP FERNGROVE FIFTH LEG FIRST DROPFIVE GEESE FLAMETREE FLINTS OF COONAWARRA FORESTER ESTATE FORMBY & ADAMS FOURSISTERS FOUR WINDS FRAMINGHAM FRASER GALLOP FREYCINET FROGMORE CREEK FUDDLINGCUP GALLI ESTATE GARDNERS GROUND GARFISH GEMTREE GEOFF HARDY GEOFF MERRILL GEOFFWEAVER GIPSIE JACK GLAETZER GLAETZER-DIXON FAMILY GLEN ELDON GLENGUIN ESTATEGOATY HILL GORDON HILLS GOUNDREY GRANT BURGE GROSSET GUMPARA HANDPICKED HAPPSSearchAND THREE 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wine investment & collectingLook at your wish list and the prices that 2010 is proving to be a solid “investment” in this period, with all auctions nowhave been achieved at wine auction over vintage. Along with 2008 and 2006 quality, completely unreserved.winter 2013. Be selective, and do the in demand, well-cellared wines have veryresearch, look at spending next year’s strong prospects on the secondary market. As a part of these changes we have alsobudget this year. On the investing for drinking front, look introduced our new Cracka Deals platform, closely at 2011. The horror stories coming which allows customers to purchase wines In my opinion, prices for selected from the likes of Torbreck, who were at discounted, fixed prices for the duration oficon premiums will push up on the forced to de-classify all the premium wines the deals (which end at midnight each night).back of increased export pressure and because of severe weather damage, have Even despite all auctions now starting atreduced supply into the domestic market. put a permanent black cloud over the 2011 just $1/bottle, several wines continue to setThe amazing range of imports, again story. Wait for the 2011 premiums and high prices, like the 2006 Elmslie Cabernetparticularly the top-end icons, are still in super premiums to come to auction and Sauvignon, which is an unlikely auction herowarehouses for distribution. The stock buy them cheaply to drink. The news from given that it’s a Tasmanian cabernet from awill likely not be replaced with the new the trenches is very encouraging. Canny little-known producer. Yet perform it does,vintages. Again, look carefully at what producers who managed the vineyards selling for $22/bottle and attracting hundredsyou want and try to move fast. Draw up carefully, or were just “lucky” with the of bids. Similarly, some old favourites froma wish list. Be proactive. rain and humidity, have produced some classic vintages have performed strongly of fabulous wines. late, with Katnook Cabernet (one example) If you are a riesling drinker you are indeed reaching beyond $50/bottle and Rockfordspoiled with choice and value. Predicting Feedback on the Sterling Web App has Basket Press Shiraz achieving consistenta radical change in international demand been very positive. There is now no need to results regardless of the vintage.for Australian riesling is a big call, but I can miss a bid or a bargain. Bid on your mobilesee it coming and maybe soon. Quality phone or tablet anywhere any time. In other trends, shiraz continues tois so high and supply is very limited. be the most consistent performingA Chinese movie star or maybe a leading Sterling wine auctions run a rolling auction variety, particularly those wines that arelady from Bollywood promoting the fact she every two weeks. For more details go to available for less than $20. Intriguingly,only drinks Australian riesling could start a www.sterlingwine.com.au. however, our most popular wine in Augustgame-changing run of exports. was actually red burgundy, a further CRACKA WINE nod towards Australian wine drinkers’ Sterling recently catalogued some smart (JULY/AUGUST REPORT, increasing thirst for pinot noir.old German premium rieslings from the by ANDREW GRAHAM)mid-1970s. Big surprise, the retail price In response to customer feedback, and Cracka Wines conduct live wine auctionsstickers were all between $20 and $30 on the back of our own research, the every day. For more information, visita bottle - a fortune in the ’70s. Penfolds Cracka auctions platform had some www.crackawines.com.au or email help@Grange Hermitage was only $15 for most significant modifications and upgrades crackawines.com.au. All quoted prices areof that decade. per bottle with no buyer’s premium applicable.WINNER OF THE CANSTAR BLUEMOST SATISFIED CUSTOMERS AWARDFOR ONLINE LIQUOR STORESQuality wines at wholesale prices with all auctionssbtaacrktignugafrraonmtejeusatn$d9sppeeredcyasdee.liWveitrhy,aw3h0adt’asynmototnoeylove about wine at GraysOnline?cVuissittowmwewrs.garraeygsoivninligneu.scofimve and find out why our stars!64 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013

wine investment & collectingGRAYSONLINE $1000) went for only $599. There were Dead Arm Shiraz from the early 2000s, so(SEPTEMBER REPORT, some very happy consumers who picked you’ll see a steady supply over summer.by GREG FITZSIMMONS) up a fine wine gift and hopefully sharedGraysonline has seen strong sales over the their find with wine-loving friends. Regular positive feedback from ourpast few months culminating in another customers suggests graysonline remainsrecord finish to the financial year. In the There have been other stellar results from on the right track when it comes totwo months since, we’ve seen solid volume top-end French, including 2001 Chateau customer focus and service. Our attentionand value across the board, ranging from Mouton Rothschild ($530), 2001 Chateau to detail begins with our unique in-blue-chip European labels such as Lafite and Margaux ($655) and, from the same house photography and flows through toLatour, through to domestic champions like auction, 2001 Chateau Lynch-Bages ($245). packaging each bottle or lot in speciallyPenfolds Grange and Wendouree. Against Despite their gestation in a modest year, designed boxes, ready for sale andthe backdrop of burgeoning volume, these wines are now coming into their peak dispatch the next day - so you can havewe’ve done some strategic advertising drinking period. Penfolds Grange continues confidence they’ll arrive swiftly and safelyto increase market awareness, bringing to achieve great results, the 1996 magnum via our transport partners.notable dividends for our vendors. as a start, going for $1320. Henschke Hill of Grace also shows no sign of slowing Graysonline is Australia’s largest Graysonline customers may have with the incredible 1994, a testament to independent wine auction house. Bynoticed some significant changes to the work Stephen and Prue Henschke nature of our networks, experienceour market delivery over the past year have done over the years, achieving $435. and reputation, we’re able to sourcein the realm of Private Cellar. Gone are exceptional wines and pass them on tothe days of “get it in, get it out”. We Some great drinking bargains were bought our customers at incomparable prices.now have specific sales and categories in the $50-$60 price bracket, which make We offer a comprehensive service forto match. These include bi-monthly sales the perfect dinner table accompaniment. wineries, restaurants and individuals -of Penfolds Grange, iconic Australian These include singles such as 1999 St turning liquid assets into cash. We takemagnums, single malts, Europeans and Hallett Old Block Shiraz, 1992 Orlando St care of everything, from valuation andof course French (together with our Hugo Cabernet Sauvignon, 1998 Henschke selling, to shipping and prompt weeklyweekly auctions of wines, ports and Keyneton Estate Shiraz Blend and 1993 payments. Also, as part of building ourBundaberg Rum). As we cater to the De Bortoli Noble One Botrytis Semillon. In “Private Cellar” brand, vendors aredemand and build the supply for each of addition, there are six packs under $200 encouraged to contact graysonline’sthese categories, there are increasing containing 2008 Grosset Polish Hill Riesling, Private Cellar manager to discuss optionsbargains to be had. Recently we sold a 1993 Wynns Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004 for customised solutions. Graysonline hasbottle of 1989 Krug (with a retail price of d`Arenberg The Coppermine Road Cabernet continuous auctions, 24 hours a day, 7$440) for $338. A very rare magnum of Sauvignon and 2002 Torbreck Neck Oil days a week. For more information visit1981 Chateau Margaux (retailing at over Shiraz Grenache. We received a few pallets www.graysonline.com. Prices listed don’t of d’Arenberg The Coppermine Road and include a buyer’s premium. November/December 2013 W I N E S TAT E 65

207 TASTED105 AWARDEDPINOT NOIRWe’ve had the “savalanche” from New Zealand and we now have Thistle Ridgethe “pinotlanche’’ where an amazing number of Kiwi wines have been Waipara Pinot Noirentered in this tasting. The relevant point is that mostly they are very 2012 HHHgood, and winemakers (mostly from the South Island) have stamped Touch herbal on thetheir name on this variety and made it their own! This year we saw a nose and savoury notesrepeat of the results of last year where some lighter, low oaked, fruit- to the palate, with gooddriven wines scored well (village style) and also the upper medium level of acidity. $19.95and higher priced wines (premier cru level) also did well.In the middle, and indeed with some wines in all the classes, the wines The Crossingswere overworked, over oaked and “over there”. Unfortunately, in the Awatere Valleyattempt to make the “great pinot”, sometimes less is more! Pinot Noir 2012 HHH An oak-driven nose andPINOT NOIR PINOT NOIR Nepenthe Adelaide firm palate, with long, Yealands EstateUNDER $15 $15-$20 Hills Pinot Noir lingering flavours and Land Made Series 2012 HHH1/2 nice spiciness. $16 Marlborough Pinot2 TASTED 22 TASTED Some pretty spicy fruit Noir 2012 HHHH1/21 AWARDED 9 AWARDED – quite juicy laced with Crossroads Good varietal fruitJust one well-made drying tannins. Quite Milestone Series fragrance – slightly jubey,lunch wine! Quite a mixed bag of a hot style but a good Marlborough Pinot with good spicy oak to commercial wines. wine. $19.99 Noir 2012 HHH balance. A sweet/sourKulara Estate “The better wines here Vavasour Wines Medicinal touches to sort of palate, with niceRare Penny Reserve could have moved up into Dashwood the slightly lolly nose. savoury nuances andPinot Noir 2013 HHH the next price bracket,” Marlborough Pinot Pretty sweet oak palate. fine, drying tannins. $20Very good primary fruit said one judge. “Tannins Noir 2012 HHH1/2 Fresh acidity. $16 Koonara Bay ofcharacters on the nose. here were more grape Lovely strawberry Apostles Mt GambierQuite a tannic palate; nice rather than oak derived, bouquet seamlessly PINOT NOIR Geelong Pinot Noirfruit richness. $12.99 with winemakers aiming blended with the oak. $20-$25 2010 HHHH for extra depth,” Palate smooth, elegant An elegant, well- said another. and well balanced. $18 30 TASTED integrated wine, with Fern Ridge Wines 8 AWARDED earthy red fruits, well- Kakapo Nelson Pinot HaHa Marlborough seasoned toasty oak Noir 2010 HHHH1/2 Pinot Noir 2012 HHH The judges were quite and floral/herbal touches Attractive redcurrant/ Oaky aromas with disappointed with this all nicely balanced cranberry fruit nose cherries on the palate group. “Over ripe, under with the secondary with earthy/herbal notes and quite a long, hot ripe, overworked,” complexity. $24.95 and a well integrated finish. $19.99 NZ suggested one judge. Delta Wines palate with good pinot Sherwood Estate “No one is adjusting Hatters Hill richness and a fine line Stratum New the vintage to the Marlborough Pinot of tannins. $19.99 NZ Zealand Pinot Noir fruit quality,” said Noir 2009 HHH1/2 2012 HHH another. But the general A fruit-driven pinot, Coopers Creek Nose has hints of consensus was that the with well-packaged Marlborough Pinot redcurrant and herbs. Nice acidity was better. components, good Noir 2011 HHHH varietal fruit expression to length and well-handled Light cherry/cranberry the palate. $16.95 NZ acidity. $24 NZ fragrances with pretty spicy notes and a juicy red cherry palate, with plenty of powerful tannins. $1966 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013

Crafted from vines growing in the deep organic soils of Lowburn Ferry in Central Otago, we produce award winning New Zealand Pinot Noir wines. CENTRAL OTAGO An unforgettable experiencePhoto:Yvonne Rooney lowburnferry.co.nz Distributed in Australia by: Young & Rashleigh(NSW) www.youngandrashleigh.com Empire Liquor (SA) www.empireliquor.com.au Dave Mullen Wine Agency (WA) [email protected] All other enquiries: [email protected]

PINOT NOIRPeter Yealands PINOT NOIR Saint Clair PINOT NOIRMarlborough Pinot 2012 Family Estate 2011 & OLDERNoir 2012 HHH1/2 $25-$30 Marlborough Pinot $25-$30Lifted floral fruit Noir 2012 HHH1/2fragrances and well- 25 TASTED Slatey redcurrant nose, 19 TASTEDbalanced cherry, cedar with a spicy/floral lift. 3 AWARDEDand red currant palate. 10 AWARDED Firm, well-balanced,Still youthful. $20 warm and sweet in the Very disappointing! mouth. $26.50 NZ Too many tired,Woodgate “A better flight with Bellarine Phil's developed wines, withManjimup Pinot Noir more ‘pinosity’ some Fetish Geelong Pinot lots of winemaking2012 HHH1/2 slatiness and vineyard Noir 2012 HHH problems or poorA well-structured, characters,” said one Attractive but oak- handling with poor fruit.harmonious wine, with judge. However still too dominated wine. Velvetylovely velvety elements, many wines showed smooth in the mouth withand red currant and green tannins – some flavour richness. $26cherry fruit. $23 with excess stalkiness,Highfield Paua or simple winemaking Delamere VineyardsMarlborough Pinot faults of sulphur and Naissante TasmaniaNoir 2012 HHH barrel management. Pinot Noir 2012 HHHAcid-driven, cool-climate Nose shows somestyle. Stewed fruit nose. Catalina Sounds herbal varietal characters,Attractive, delicate, Marlborough Pinot with a juicy, well-cherry flavours. $24.99 Noir 2012 HHHH balanced palate. $27 A well-balanced and complex style. Lovely lifted, lively, floral/red fruit bouquet and a jammy sweet palate, with soft supple tannins. $27 Mt Difficulty Wines Earth's End Roaring Meg Central Central Otago Pinot Otago Pinot Noir Noir 2011 HHHH 2012 HHHH1/2 Cola-like elements on A big, well-balanced, the nose with minerally tannin-driven pinot, with notes. Big, firm, slightly a nice complexity of warm palate full of rhubarb, herbs and spicy sweet, spicy fruit. $29.99 varietal fruit characters,Mud House with well-handled oak in Waipara Hills Corby GippslandCentral Otago support. $29.95 NZ Central Otago Pinot Lakes Pinot NoirPinot Noir 2012 HHH Rabbit Ranch Noir 2012 HHH 2010 HHHRed fruit nose with pretty Central Otago Pinot Minerally spicy peppery Simple, meaty, oak-floral notes and a warm, Noir 2012 HHHH aromas and a robust driven nose and soft,powerful and plummy Lively and youthful, with fruit palate with plenty maturing, jammy, fruitpalate. $24.21 NZ good jubey fruit aromas, of length. $26.99 NZ palate. $26.90Paracombe Adelaide and a very pretty andHills Pinot Noir lengthy strawberry and Steve Bird Wise Great Southern Margrain River’s2012 HHH cherry palate. $29.95 Winery Big Barrel Pinot Noir 2012 HHH Edge MartinboroughHerbal/cedary bouquet Marlborough Pinot A big commercial style. Pinot Noir 2010 HHHand lovely mouthful Noir 2012 HHHH Delicate nose and Confectionery aromasof velvety smooth red Fresh redcurrant and long, well-balanced, with slight floral lift. Palatecurrant flavours. $21 red berry aromas, with a flavoursome palate. $28 developing nicely, with delicate, well-balanced Wooing Tree good line of acid. $28 NZ sweet cherry palate. Beetlejuice Central Refreshing acidity. Otago Pinot Noir $29.95 NZ 2012 HHH Oak-driven nose and intense, concentrated black cherry/red currant palate. Stalky tannins. $2868 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013

varietal tastingPINOT NOIR Saint Clair Family Sileni The Plateau2012 Estate Block 5 Hawkes Bay Pinot$30-$40 Omaka Valley Noir 2012 HHH Marlborough Pinot A light, elegant pinot,27 TASTED Noir 2012 HHH1/2 with spicy, minerally,10 AWARDED Red currant aromas, fruit characters on nose with strawberry and palate. $32 NZAgain the judges touches. Well-balancedwere disappointed. and juicy black cherry/ Two RiversThey found too few oak flavours. $33.50 Awatere Selectionwines with flavour; Mount Riley Marlborough Pinottoo many hard, acidic, Seventeen Valley Noir 2012 HHHgreen wines. “The Marlborough Pinot Sour cherry-like fruit,pendulum has swung Noir 2012 HHH1/2 with delicate herbal/too far the other way,” Delicate, spicy, varietal stalky notes balanced bysaid one judge. “With fruit bouquet, with the oak. $30 NZwinemakers avoiding sweet and spicy redmaking dry reds and in cherry flavours on a hot, PINOT NOIRturn not getting enough dry palate. $35 NZ 2011fruit to make it count.” Foxeys Hangout $30-$40 Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir 22 TASTED 2012 HHH 19 AWARDED A well-balanced, complex wine, nicely textured, Now we are talking! good sweet fruit, with “Here we have savoury edge. $35 fruit, structure and Mud House Claim appropriate tannins,” 431 Vineyard said one judge. “There Central Otago Pinot is a massive tipping Noir 2012 HHH point at $30 where the A robust, “masculine” quality really jumps.” style, with rhubarb-like characters and fresh acid backbone. $33.21 NZ Saint Clair Family Estate Pioneer Block 14 Omaka Valley Marlborough Pinot Noir 2012 HHH Smells of raspberry and cinnamon, with warm, spicy red flavours and drying, tannin finish. $33.50 NZSaint Clair Family Saint Clair Family Weaver Estate WinesEstate Barn Block 22 Estate Block 23 Central Otago PinotMarlborough Pinot Southern Valley Noir 2011 HHHHHNoir 2012 HHHH1/2 Pinot Noir 2012 HHH A shy and delicate pinotLovely rich nose – smells Herbal nose; hints of “A touch under-ripe, inof wild strawberries. sweeter spices. a good way,” said oneFirm in the mouth, Firm cherry palate. judge. Pretty raspberrywith intense, black Mouth puckering aromatics on thecherry-like flavours, well- tannins. $33.50 NZ nose. Sustained berryintegrated tannins and Saint Clair Family flavours on the complexslightly warming alcohol. Estate Block 16 palate. $30$33.50 NZ Awatere Marlborough Pinot Noir 2012 HHH Lovely ripe fruit expression on the nose and a juicy, well- balanced, acid-driven palate. $33.50 NZ November/December 2013 W I N E S TAT E 69 BRA030_POC_Riesling2012_WineState_59x270_Ad_FA.in5d/d09/113 4:32 PM

PINOT NOIRAwatere River Lochar Estate Judge Rock Central Riversdale Estate Elephant Hill CentralReserve Single The First Cut Harvest Otago Pinot Noir Centaurus Coal Otago Pinot NoirVineyard Central Otago Pinot 2011 HHHH1/2 River Valley Pinot 2011 HHH1/2Marlborough Pinot Noir 2011 HHHH1/2 An elegant, seamlessly- Noir 2011 HHHH Aromatic cedar/Noir 2011 HHHH1/2 A solid, balanced, youthful balanced wine, with A big, ripe pinot with vanillin aromas. SilkyConserve-like red wine, with leafy berry good structure and youthful fruit/vanilla smooth palate, withfruit characters on the aromas and a grippy, length. Smells of oak aromas and lovely nice mid-weight flavournose, with complex, “tight fisted” palate, with strawberries and cedar, mouthfilling, fleshy, profile. $34 NZrustic oak. A big, solid, layers of raspberry and with pure varietal fruit sweet, black cherry Highfieldwell-structured palate, red cherry flavours. Great flavours and subtle flavours. $32 Marlborough Pinotlovely silky texture, with texture. $35.40 NZ tannins. Firm on the Centennial Vineyards Noir 2011 HHH1/2extracted flavours. $35 Maude Wines finish. $39 NZ Reserve Single Confectionery fruitCoopers Creek Central Otago Pinot Rockcliffe Single Site Vineyard Unfiltered bouquet with rhubarbRazorback Central Noir 2011 HHHH1/2 Great Southern Pinot Orange Pinot Noir touches. Velvety palate;Otago Pinot Noir Great nose – smells of Noir 2011 HHHH 2011 HHHH fragrant strawberry2011 HHHH1/2 the forest floor with some Simple vanillin oak tends Complex layers of flavours. $38A soft, seductive wine, cedary elements. Tastes to dominate the nose, raspberry, caramel and Johner Estatewith chocolaty, cherry of preserved cherries, with tons of oak on the tobacco aromas, and Gladstone NZ Pinotbouquet and well- with some alcohol heat palate and lightweight appealing cool-climate, Noir 2011 HHH1/2balanced ,nicely layered and bright acidity. One for pinot flavours. $35 high acid, palate. Firm Very spicy, complexpalate, with mouthfilling cellaring. $35 Fromm La Strada finish. $35 aromas, with perfumedflavours and the oak Marlborough Pinot Vynfields Organic elements. All pretty,adding complexity. $32 Noir 2011 HHHH Wine Single Estate light and delicate on the Black fruit richness Martinborough Pinot palate. $34 to the nose and rich, Noir 2011 HHHH Matahiwi Estate Holly ripe, soft palate, with A big wine – opulent and Wairarapa Pinot Noir youthful flavours. Needs rich. Smells of berries 2011 HHH1/2 time to grow. A crowd and tobacco. Silky Crunchy red fruit nose pleaser. $39.95 smooth in the mouth, with raisined notes. with powerful black/red Ripe, rich, slightly fruit flavours. $39 NZ extracted characters on Auntsfield the palate. $34.99 Single Vineyard Bishops Head Marlborough Pinot Waipara Valley Pinot Noir 2011 HHH1/2 Noir 2011 HHH Pungent and aromatic Estery leafy bouquet and a on the nose, with a big lovely long, lean and well- fleshy palate and silky balanced palate. $32 NZ tannins underscored by Shadowfax Geelong acid. $38 NZ Pinot Noir 2011 HHH Tamar Ridge A tight, lean style, with Tasmania Pinot Noir eucalypt touches to the 2011 HHH1/2 briary fruit. “Give it a Leafy tomato-like aromas, few years!” $30 and a tart and tannic lightweight palate, with firm drying finish. $32JUDGES Clive Hartley Adrian Marchioro Andy Stewart Senior head teacher, food Treasury Wine Estates Wine Consultant. Formerly and beverage, at Ryde Brisbane Manager. Formerly National Wine Specialist College of TAFE. Leading Victorian state manager for for the Fosters Group. Has national wine educator Four Seasons Fine Wines and been both a viticulturist (10 and author. Judge at the winery manager at Witchmount years) and winemaker (7 NSW Wine Awards and the Wines and cellarmaster years) with the company. Australian and New Zealand for MoMo restaurant in Judge at the Mudgee Organic Wine Show. Melbourne. Sommelier at Wine Show and Associate Flemington Racecourse. judge at the Southern Associate judge at Ballarat and Highlands Wine Show. the Victorian Wine Show.70 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013

varietal tastingPINOT NOIR PINOT NOIR Folding Hill Bendigo Rockburn Central Wooing Tree Central2010 & OLDER $40-$50 Central Otago Pinot Otago Pinot Noir Otago Pinot Noir$30-$40 Noir 2011 HHHH1/2 2012 HHHH1/2 2011 HHHH 28 TASTED Subtle cherry pip and An unusual style. Big A complex style.10 TASTED 20 AWARDED berry aromas, with and full-bodied, with an Stemmy, stalky, berry5 AWARDED “Some cracking a funky background. amalgam of red/black fruit characters lift out wines here from big, Grippy, mid-weight fruits and dusty/leathery the glass and fill theA hit and miss flight! concentrated, rich styles palate – a touch hot, oak. Lots going on here, mouth with a harmony“New world aged pinots to mid-weight textured with big, bold tannins. just needs more time. $45 of flavour. $48can be great but more ones,” noted one of Ageing well. $42 Barwick Estates Murdoch Jamesoften disappoint,” the judges. “But there Lowburn Ferry The Collectables Blue Rockcommented one judge. are also some ‘wish-I- Skeleton Creek Pemberton Pinot Single Vineyard bought-them’ wines.” Central Otago Pinot Noir 2009 HHHH Martinborough PinotNingtingbool Being either under-ripe Noir 2011 HHHH1/2 Sophisticated and Noir 2011 HHH1/2Ballarat Pinot Noir or over-oaked; balance “At last a proper pinot complex, with aromas An elegant yet complex2010 HHHH1/2 was the key. nose,” said one judge. of caramel oak and style. Menthol notesDark, earthy, forestry/ Stalky, berry aromas, sweet berry fruit which to the nose. Verymushroomy-like bouquet Soho McQueen with forest floor is echoed on the good early picked fruitlaced with spice and Central Otago Pinot undertones. Very flavoursome palate. $45 flavours. $40 NZlicorice. An elegant, pretty Noir 2012 HHHHH satisfying, silky fruit palate, Gibbston Valley Palliser Estatepalate, with a silky texture, Aromatic red fruit nose, with funky notes. $45 Central Otago Pinot Martinborough Pinotslight minty character and with a whiff of oak. Noir 2012 HHHH Noir 2011 HHH1/2good acidity. $33 Palate has strength and Saint Clair Herbal and leafy on the Red cherry/forest floor length, with a subtlety of Family Estate nose, with a lavender bouquet and silkyBream Creek pretty fruit and velvety Omaka Reserve note. Big, rich palate; palate, with mouthfillingTasmania Pinot Noir tannins. Still a baby. “Will Marlborough Pinot stewed rhubarb fruit flavours. “Very2010 HHH1/2 go the distance!” $45 Noir 2012 HHHH1/2 flavours. Very young. more-ish!” $45 NZHarmonious and Estery and peppery on Needs time. $44 NZ Shaky Bridgecomplex wine – silky, the nose, with a hint of Lochar Estate Central Otago Pinotluscious and a little bit raspberries. Luscious, Central Otago Pinot Noir 2011 HHH1/2funky, with up-front, silky and sweet in the Noir 2010 HHHH A simple but powerfulfleshy fruit. $34 mouth, with a dash of “Lady’s handbag,” was wine, with an intriguing pepper. “Will grow in how one judge described complexity of savouryYarravale Reserve the bottle.” $45 the floral, scented, subtle and sweet fruitYarra Valley Pinot meaty nose. Generous characters. $45 NZNoir 2009 HHH1/2 silky/fleshy fruit palate. Carrick BannockburnAn appealing, complex $45.50 NZ Central Otago Pinotstyle. Berry aromas Moorilla Vineyard Noir 2011 HHHmingle with savoury Muse Series “Smells like an old spicenotes. Velvety sweet Tasmania Pinot Noir jar.” Has a long, silky,fruit palate. $36 2011 HHHH appealingly, savoury A melange of vanilla oak, palate. $45 NZBorrodell Orange caramel and stalky berry Clos HenriPinot Noir 2009 HHH aromas. Long, elegant, Marlborough PinotA wine with great well-structured palate, Noir 2010 HHHcharm. Good cedary with subtle flavours. $48 Generous and silky;oak and raspberry-like Sidewood Adelaide a blend of red cherry/varietal fruit. $38 Hills Pinot Noir strawberry fruit, 2011 HHHH smoky oak and savouryDelta Wines Lifted perfumed red fruit notes. $43.90 NZMarlborough Pinot aromas and impressiveNoir 2010 HHH fruit flavour power. TastesCool, herbal/menthol of raspberry wine gums.aromas and delicate Has chalky tannins. $40flavours on the firmlytextured palate. $34 NZ JUDGESPhil Kerney Rob Geddes MW Rodney KempeWinemaker for Ross Hill Australia’s third master Chief winemaker/generalWines. Formerly winemaker of wine and proprietor manager of Lakes Follyand general manager of of Winestream. Regular winery. Former winemakerWillow Creek Wines in judge on retail wine at McGuigan wines andMornington. Has been buying panels and has also Rothbury. Has judged ata consultant with Parker judged in England, Hong the Sydney International,Estate in Coonawarra Kong and New Zealand. NSW Wine Awards and theand winemaker at Steins Recently published his Hunter Valley Wine Showin Mudgee. Completed wine book “a good nose for the past seven years.vintages in Spain, France & great legs”.and Central Otago (NZ). November/December 2013 W I N E S TAT E 71

PINOT NOIRD’Angelo Il Berardino Lowburn Ferry Paringa EstateReserve Officer Home Block Central MorningtonPinot Noir 2010 HHH Otago Pinot Noir Peninsula Pinot NoirNose has a hint of 2012 HHH1/2 2010 HHHsmoky fish, with an Has distinction and Lean, green andelegant and stylish delicacy, with complex perfumed nose, and acherry/oak palate. $40 stalky berry aromas light, lean, well-balanced and red fruit/lavender and simple palate. $60Delamere Vineyards palate. $52.95 NZDelamere Tasmania Margrain PINOT NOIRPinot Noir 2012 HHH Home Block $75+Toasty/charry oak Martinborough Pinotaromas. Good fruit palate, Noir 2010 HHH1/2 4 TASTEDwith an abundance of A bright, fresh, slightly 4 AWARDEDsweet oak. $42 savoury style, with subtle complexity, A small class of qualityGibbston Valley ripe berries and silky wines with stylisticCentral Otago Pinot mouthfeel. $52 NZ differences ranging fromNoir 2011 HHH Auntsfield Hawk Hill ripe, vibrant fruit, withA low-key, subtle style; Marlborough Pinot light tannins to solidsome sweet dry red Noir 2011 HHH acid/tannin wines.fruit, with soft oak to A fruit-driven nose,balance. $44 with a herbal touch and Fromm Clayvin savoury/stewed rhubarb VineyardSidewood Adelaide Gibbston Valley Hickinbotham flavours. $58 NZ Marlborough PinotHills Pinot Noir School House Mornington Clyde Park Vineyard Noir 2011 HHHH2012 HHH Central Otago Pinot Peninsula Pinot Noir Block D Geelong Quite a closed nose;Nose is dense and closed; Noir 2012 HHHHH 2010 HHHH1/2 Pinot Noir 2012 HHH hints of cola, coffee andpalate is harmonious. A big, powerful wine, with Big nose with jammy Stewed cherry/licorice raspberry. UnderstatedGood oak, pretty fruit, a complexity of stalky, fruit ripeness and a bouquet. Good fruit palate; elegant andhigh alcohol. $40 berry/briary fruit aromas licorice thread. Juicy balance on the palate. refined, some sweet fruit and some perfumed berry fruit on the nicely Greenish tannins. $55 and fine tannins. $80PINOT NOIR notes. Great persistence layered, well-textured Foxeys Hangout$50-$75 of red/black fruit flavours and firm palate. Still very Kentucky Road Greystone on a well-balanced palate. youthful. Hot finish. $56 777 Mornington The Brothers Reserve18 TASTED $69.99 NZ Bald Hills Peninsula Pinot Noir Waipara Pinot Noir16 AWARDED Clyde Park Single Vineyard 2012 HHH 2011 HHHH Vineyard Block B2 Bannockburn A sweet, spicy lightweight Smells dark, denseA solid class, with Geelong Pinot Noir Central Otago Pinot – quite elegant, with some and spicy, with veryformulaic winemaking 2012 HHHH1/2 Noir 2012 HHHH sweet/sour elements. $60 long, intense, sweetartefact dominating! Huge oaky wine, with Big, juicy, dry red style, Foxeys Hangout fruit flavours, subtle“Overall a good level a hint of raisins, dark with oak-driven aromas Scotsworth Farm tannins and high levelof ripeness but are we spices and red peppers showing some gaminess Mornington of acidity. $75expecting too much?” on the nose. Intense, and a bright, strawberry/ Peninsula Pinot Noirasked one judge. “These well-handled, balanced cherry palate. $55 2012 HHH Gibbston Valleyare up to world standard palate, with good level Muddy Water Faint fragrances of fruit Reserve Central- but what now?” of acidity. A keeper. $55 Slowhand leading on to quite a lean Otago Pinot Noir Waipara Pinot Noir and delicate palate. $60 2010 HHH1/2 STAR RATINGS  2010 HHHH Maude Wines Great wine, ageing Very nice wine - touch Reserve Central beautifully, with years toThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of simple. Lovely deep red Otago Pinot Noir go yet. Lovely subtletyexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. hues, loads of dense, rich, 2011 HHH of spicy fruit and dustyAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry varietal fruit, sweet oak Smells of fruit cake, with oak. $100professionals and are compared in peer and silky tannins. $69.95 a silky, plum fruit palate;classes by three judges. Folding Hill Bendigo plenty of acid. $50 Pipers BrookCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, Central Otago Pinot Muddy Water Hare’s Vineyard The Lyrea major mail-order business. Noir 2010 HHH1/2 Breath Waipara Pinot Tasmania Pinot NoirCD Cellar door price. Earthy notes to the black Noir 2010 HHH 2006 HHHCDO Cellar door only. plum nose and powerful, A structured, tannic Mature, complex meaty/SO Sold out. flavoursome palate, with style that has length, bacon aromas. Angular$N/A Price not available at time of printing. lovely soft texture. $55 firmness and medium cherry palate. Drying Contact information pg 144. Gibbston Valley flavour intensity. $54.95 finish. $110 China Terrace RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). Central Otago PinotFor a complete list of what we tasted Noir 2012 HHH1/2please refer to www.winestate.com.au Grippy and youthful – smelling of cherries with a hint of lavender. Nice savoury/meaty palate. $5572 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013

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Hahndorf Hill Winery Adelaide HillsIntroducing our 2013 GRU Gruner Veltliner To discover more, visit our website

True Blue GRU Gruner is the world’s most food-friendlywine style and it’s grown especially for you in the cool, green Adelaide Hills. Available now! DistributionNSW, ACT, VIC & QLD: Zenith Wine Agencies: 1300 883 056 SA: Melita Trimboli: 0400 796 928 Cellar door sales: 08 8388 7512 www.hahndorfhillwinery.com.au

207 TASTED163 AWARDEDCHAMPAGNE & SPARKLINGA big tasting of bubbles promising lots of enjoyment, whetherfrom the cheap and cheerful end to the prestigious formal styles.Champagnes continue to show why they are so highly regardedand while Aussie sparklers performed well, champagne (albeitat a higher price) is hard to beat. However, with sparkling red,Australian bubbles come into their own and here we saw a greatselection to choose from.AUSTRALIAN Veuve Olivier Barokes Bin 242& NZ Australia Sparkling Bubbly ChardonnaySPARKLING Brut NV HHH1/2 Semillon NV HHHUNDER $10 Toasty honeyed notes Candied apple aromas; evolving nicely on the light yeasty notes.10 TASTED nose. Good palate Nicely balanced clean,9 AWARDED length; flavoursome, crisp, fruity palate. $3.50 with a solid line of crisp Cock + Bull AustraliaGreat value and consistent acid. $7.99 Cuvée Brut NV HHHquality wines.These are Floral freshness to thelight, simple and fresh - nose and quite a viscousideal for quaffing. palate, with slightly tart flavours. $6.90 Grand Rayon Charisma South South Point Elemes Australia South Eastern Australia Blanc de Australia Sparkling Sparkling Australia Sparkling Blanc NV HHH1/2 Chardonnay Chardonnay Cuvee NV HHH1/2 Smells of roses mingling Pinot Noir NV HHH Pinot Noir NV HHH Lovely lifted floral with muscat-like notes. Appley nose with Some complexity to the nose, with the Sweeter style palate - strawberry notes and nose with floral notes. perfumed characters nicely balanced with some soft palate with a hot Developing, slightly following through to floral touches. $6.90 finish. $5.99 sweeter, palate. $9.99 the palate. Long, persistent finish. $3.99 Adam Jarvis Editor & Writer andJUDGES on Dan Murphy’s Fine Wine Panel. Decades Stephen Brown John Ashwell of Hospitality & Liquor (Day 1 & 2) Winemaker at Wolf Retail Experience. He is Winemaker & Viticulturist for Blass Wines. Previously also a full member of the Padthaway Estate Sparkling sparkling winemaker for Society of Editors. winemakers. Has vintaged in Treasury Wine Estates. Champagne and completed Has vintaged in the Yarra a Masters of Winemaking in Valley and at Seppelt's Burgundy. Judged in South Great Western. Africa, New Zealand, France and Australia.76 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013

varietal tasting Foxeys Hangout Miceli Mornington Sparkling Rosé Peninsula Rosé Mornington Brut 2004 HHH Peninsula Pinot Noir Golden bronze wine, 2011 HHHH with delicate bead, A light, elegant, salmon toasty aromas and pretty pink wine, with delicate apricot flavours. $39 yeasty/toasty aromas Yealands Estate and ripe strawberry Violet Marlborough flavours on a drying Sparkling Pinot Gris palate. Grippy finish. $35 Blush NV HHH Delicate floral fragrances Yellowglen Perle developing nicely, with Australia Sparkling mouthcoating apple and Rosé 2006 HHHH citrus flavours. $19.95 Aged complexity to the nose and obvious AUSTRALIAN developed secondary & NZ characters leading SPARKLING the way on the long, NV $10-$20 lingering palate. $29.99 23 TASTEDClaire Creek Blue Pyrenees Claire Creek 19 AWARDED Jip Jip RocksSparkling Estate Brut Rosé Sparkling Moscato Australia SparklingMoscato NV HHH 2005 HHHH Rosa NV HHH1/2 While most of the wines Cuvee NV HHHHLifted sweet apricots Lovely nose - smells of An intense, sweet, in this group were Lovely and bright in theand raisin aromas roses and honeysuckle muscaty style of recommended, the quality glass, with nice fruitinesswith a sweet, almost which carries through to rosé with some bold ranged from slightly and green florals onmarmalade, palate. $4.99 the slightly sweet palate. mouthfilling berry fruit sweeter commercial the nose and delicateWolf Blass Red Label Gentle acid backbone. $24 flavours. $4.99 styles to the more persistence of honeyedAustralia Sparkling Centennial Kreglinger serious yeast autolysis fruit flavours. $19.95Moscato NV HHH Australia Brut Rosé Tasmania Brut Rosé derived ones showing Demon Ridge SpecialSome very delicate NV HHH1/2 2004 HHH1/2 additional complexity. Cuvée NV HHHHmuscat/floral fragrances, Gentle toasty yeasty Sweet floral/strawberry Complexity of greenwith gentle sweetness notes to the nose nose and full, upfront Yellowglen apple and yeast aromas.on the soft palate. $9.99 and nicely developed strawberry flavours on Perle Australia Nice full creamy palate that is long and the palate, with some Sparkling Pinot Noir palate with a pleasant, seamlessly balanced. $28 citrussy elements. $55 Chardonnay sweetish aspect and Yellowglen Pink NV HHHHH good flavour length. $15AUSTRALIAN Tomich Family Australia Sparkling A very complex, rich& NZ Reserve Pink Pinot Rosé NV HHH wine made in a fullerPINK/ROSE Adelaide Hills A pretty pink wine, style, with everything Sparkling Pinot Noir with delicate red berry in perfect balance. Nice14 TASTED NV HHH1/2 nose, and pleasant and dried flower and yeasty12 AWARDED A clean, fresh and refreshing palate. $14.99 autolysis, with delicate inviting style, with subtle Palmer Wines apple/lemon elementsAnother group of well- berry fruits, nice nutty Australia Blush and lovely developedmade sparkling wines. notes and quite a grippy NV HHH characters. $19.99Within the rosés we finish. $30 Subtle confectionery/saw good palate weight, Akarua Central Otago floral bouquet and ripesome dry styles and Rosé Brut NV HHH1/2 strawberry palate withsome sweet ones. A few Ripe berry complexity to good acid. $25showed development but the nose and great \"onmost had good freshness the money\" palate withand vibrancy of fruit. a lovely flavour profile. Good length. $35.90Nick Haselgrove Nigel DolanWinestate’s 2010 Owner of Dolan Wines.Australian Winemaker Formerly chief winemakerof the Year. Winemaker/ for Wyndham Estate WinesDirector of Adelaide and group Red winemakerWinemakers. Former chief for the Fosters Wine Groupwinemaker at Haselgrove and Saltram chief winemaker.Wines. A ‘flying Previously senior winemakerwinemaker’ from 1993-95. and manager at SeppeltJudge at Hobart for 3 years Wines. 10 years’ experienceand associate judge at as senior judge with nationalAdelaide in 1996-97. and regional wine shows. November/December 2013 W I N E S TAT E 77

CHAMPAGNE & SPARKLINGCharles Sturt Yellowglen Yellow Mt Monster Yellowglen Australia Swings &University Orange Australia Brut Cuvee Australia Sparkling Sparkling Pinot Noir RoundaboutsBlanc de Blancs NV HHH1/2 Brut NV HHH Chardonnay Margaret RiverNV HHHH A pretty, delicate, floral Delicate bready nose 2011 HHHH Sparkling CheninDry, almost meaty style with a lively fruit with floral note. Honeyed A big, fruity style, with NV HHHHHmasculine style, with nose and flavoursome palate. Crisp apple/ loads of strawberry and A very pleasant and nicelyobvious pinot characters palate, with zingy strawberry flavours. $15.95 peach characters layered developed wine, withdominating. Some acidity. $14.99 with biscuity, yeasty a winning combinationcomplexity, good acidity Patrick of Rosemount complexity and well- of good varietal fruitand hot finish. $19.99 Coonawarra Mother Diamond Label judged sweetness. $19.99 and good winemaking,Seppelt of Pearl Coonawarra Australia Sparkling with excellent yeastySalinger Australia Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Wolf Blass Yellow complexity and livelyCuvée NV HHHH Chardonnay Noir NV HHH Label Australia acidity. Has freshnessSmells of melon peel Pinot NV HHH1/2 Interesting fruit Sparkling Pinot Noir and balance. $24with citrus hints and Leesy apple aromas characters on the nose Chardonnay Jamabro Hissy Fitsome meatiness. A well- and crisp, citrus/apple and drying, aperitif-style 2010 HHH1/2 Australia Sparklingbalanced serious palate, palate, with good of palate. $15.99 Toasty, nutty complexity Semillon NV HHHHnice roundness and length and interesting to the nose and a riper- Aged toasty bouquet;complex elements. $19.99 complexity. $19 Eight Carat style palate, with lovely slight honeyed edge and Taylors Australia Brut Sparkling fruit flavours and nice a full-flavoured, honeyedIzzie Australia Cuvee NV HHH1/2 Chardonnay Pinot aged characters. $17.99 palate, with toasty age,Sparkling Pinot Noir Complex, round and Noir NV HHH plenty of length and softChardonnay long, with lovely aged Delicate sherbety bouquet Gilded Lily Reserve texture. $22NV HHH1/2 estery aromas and nice and tart apple palate with Cuvée 2012 HHHSubtle yeasty notes developed secondary strawberry notes. $16 Aromatic fruit tingle-liketo the nose and long, characters on the nose and a pleasant,powerful, apple/ palate. $19 Wise The Bead sweet citrus palate.strawberry palate, with Capel Vale Eagle Bay Sparkling A pretty wine. $14autolysis undertones. $15 Debut Sparkling Chardonnay PinotDeakin Estate Brut NV HHH1/2 Noir NV HHH AUSTRALIANAzahara Australia A nicely layered and A lovely, well-rounded & NZSparkling complex fruit-driven wine, with a complexity SPARKLINGChardonnay Pinot style, with some lovely of fruit, yeast and drying NV $20-$30Noir NV HHH1/2 traditional yeasty autolysis acidity. $19.50Floral sherbety nose characters. $19.99 23 TASTEDsmells of apples. Honeyed Berton Vineyards Yealands Estate 15 AWARDEDlemon peel palate that Head over Heels Violet Marlboroughis well balanced with Australia Sparkling Sparkling Sauvignon Solid class, with residualcomplexing agents. $12 Chardonnay NV HHH Blanc NV HHH sugar an issue resulting Golden wine, delicate An attractive crowd- in the dampening of bead, green apple and pleaser. Intense NZ fruit some gas lift. The best strawberry fruit, and on nose and palate. wines however tended hints of yeast. $11 Decent acidity. $19.95 to be dry and holding Seppelt Fleur de Lys their gas better! Australia Sparkling AUSTRALIAN Chardonnay Pinot & NZ Noir NV HHH SPARKLING Aperitif style, with some VINTAGE apple and some nuttiness $10-$20 showing through. Good acid line. $14.99 4 TASTED The Wine Society 3 AWARDED Australia Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot A small group of quaffers NV HHH with consistent quality. An unusual but pleasant style, slightly sweet but perfectly balanced. $14.9978 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013

varietal tastingBlue Pyrenees Palmer Private Katnook Founder's Taltarni Tache Taltarni BrutEstate Traditional Collection Vintage Block Coonawarra Australia Sparkling Australia SparklingSparkling Reserve Australia Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Chardonnay PinotChardonnay Pinot Brut NV HHHH Chardonnay Pinot Noir Pinot Meunier Noir Pinot MeunierNoir Pinot Meunier Rich, developed wine Noir NV HHH 2010 HHHH1/2 2010 HHHHNV HHHH - nice candied notes to Strawberry/candy floss Strawberries and cream A riper, developed style,Good intensity of the nutty peach nose. nose and quite a savoury lift off the nose and with a toasty, butterystrawberry aromas and Great honeyed/almond palate that's complex exhibit a toasty/roasted nose. Palate has creamyyeasty elements. Nicely meal palate, with fresh and flavoursome. $23 nut edge. Full flavoured mouthfeel with somelayered, chewy red berry fruit on top. $28 palate - soft and creamy, complexity and goodpalate. Soft in the mouth Grant Burge Helene Irvine R13 Meslier with great strawberry flavour persistence. $26and ageing well. $20 Grande Australia Brut NV HHH flavour persistence. Fine The Estates Cuvée NV HHH1/2 A big, flavoursome, acid line. $26 The Fizz FranklandNinth Island Toasty notes mingle strawberry pink wine. Foxeys Hangout River SparklingTasmania Sparkling with the peachy aromas. Well-judged sweetness Mornington ChardonnayPinot Noir Lively fruit-driven palate, and loads of real Peninsula Sparkling 2012 HHH1/2Chardonnay Pinot with lovely mouthcoating complexity. $25 Pinot Chardonnay Delicate, fresh andMeunier NV HHHH flavours. $54.99 2011 HHHH youthful wine, with veryClean, fresh, peach and Scarpantoni Tempest AUSTRALIAN \"The more I taste this, attractive peach andmelon fruit balanced McLaren Vale & NZ the more I like it,\" melon-like fruit aromaswith light nutty toasty Sparkling Sauvignon SPARKLING commented one judge. and flavours. $22notes, fresh lively acidity Blanc NV HHH1/2 VINTAGE Nice combination of yeast Blue Pyreneesand good line of citrus Pretty pink wine offering $20-$30 autolysis, peach/stonefruit Estate Vintage Brutcharacters. $25 pleasant drinking, with and nutty notes. $28 2010 HHH1/2Amadio nice persistence of peach 22 TASTED Charles Sturt Nice fruit, yeast andBilyanna Australia and strawberry aromas 18 AWARDED University Cellar toasty integration givingBrut NV HHHH and flavours. $20 Reserve Tumbarumba complexity to the noseButtery, honeyed-aged Thorn Clarke Eden Excellent class of Sparkling Pinot Noir and the round, well-wine. Pretty citrus fruit Valley Sparkling well-handled wines. Chardonnay developed palate. $24aromas, with light yeasty Pinot Chardonnay \"Starting to see genuine 2009 HHHH Wicks Estatenotes. Full-flavoured NV HHH1/2 consistency and depth Nose is a complexity Adelaide Sparklingpalate, with excellent A simple, aged, dry white of flavour here, with of roasted nuts and Chardonnay Pinotcreamy mousse. $25 with lemon curd-like yeast autolysis showing\" strawberry fruit. Great Noir 2010 HHH1/2Morton IQ3 New fruit characters, complex said one judge. creamy flavours showing Aged, toasty aromasZealand Sparkling yeasty notes and good \"The lesser wines have hints of citrus with light verging on savoury, withNV HHHH acid length. $20 these elements in a yeasty touches. $27.50 complex yeasty notesA rich, fully-aged style - Centennial Australia disjointed way - the best Anderson Australia on a foundation of goodvery flavoursome, with Sparkling Pinot Noir had them together in a Sparkling Chenin fruit. \"A pleasure totoasty buttery characters Chardonnay seamless way.\" Blanc 2005 HHHH drink.\" $25mingling with the fruity NV HHH1/2 A full-on, complex nose -elements, honeyed A complex match of Seppelt Salinger very intense, with loadsnotes and acid. $25.70 peach melon fruit, yeast Australia Vintage of flavour balanced by autolysis and nice aged Cuvee 2009 HHHHH good acidity. Amazingly elements. An elegant An elegant, bright green youthful for an eight- style of wine. $28 wine with a complexity year-old! $25 Blue Pyrenees Estate of nutty, toffee, melon Luna Sparkling and honey aromas. Chardonnay Pinot Lively and creamy in Noir Pinot Meunier the mouth, with pretty NV HHH yeasty peach flavours Melon and peach fruit, and underscored by with tropical notes and good acid spine. $29.99 layered with nice biscuity yeast autolysis. $20 Yellowglen Mojo Fizz Adelaide Perle Australia Hills Sparkling Sparkling Pinot Noir Chardonnay Pinot Chardonnay Noir NV HHH 2008 HHHH1/2 Floral citrus bouquet, Toasty baguette of a with light yeasty notes nose, with a zesty, and soft peaches and grapefruit element. cream flavours. $20 Palate has elegance and finesse, with good retention of primary fruits on a base of almond bread and honey. $29.99 November/December 2013 W I N E S TAT E 79

CHAMPAGNE & SPARKLINGSeppelt Fleur Golding Last Hurrah Henry's Drive Blue Pyrenees Grant Burgede Lys Australia Adelaide Hills Vignerons Estate Sparkling Australia Blanc deSparkling Pinot Noir Sparkling Pinot Noir The Postmistress Shiraz NV HHHHH Noirs NV HHH1/2Chardonnay Chardonnay Barossa Valley Blanc Lovely lifted, aromatic, Pleasant, pretty aromas2009 HHH1/2 2012 HHH de Blancs 2012 HHH spicy peppery bouquet. showing good pinotRich, full-flavoured and Aromatic, fruity nose Fresh, clean, melon Dense, balanced characters. Has a lighter,complex wine, and followed by a soft palate bouquet with simple and well-structured fruit-driven palate withaccording to one judge: loaded with fruit tingle- fruit flavours and clean palate with good bead good acid balance. $24.99\"Very sure of itself\". like flavours. $22 acid spine. $20 retention and full of soft, Patritti McLarenGood fruit and firm Montara Lili St. Cyr ripe fruit flavours, with Vale Sparklingacidity. $23.99 Australia Sparkling AUSTRALIAN subtle, well-handled oak Shiraz NV HHH1/2Wolf Blass Chardonnay Pinot & NZ characters. $24 Nose promises darkGold Label Adelaide Noir 2009 HHH SPARKLING 35 Degrees McLaren plum fruit cake andHills Sparkling Pinot Lemon curd-like aromas, RED NV Vale Sparkling mocha, and the palateNoir Chardonnay with a biscuity/yeasty Shiraz NV HHHH1/2 delivers. Hints of2008 HHH1/2 edge. Full-flavoured 23 TASTED Rich, ripe, dark fruit sweetness and firmA big, flavoursome mouthfilling palate. $25 17 AWARDED and mocha nose. Very tannins. $9.95sparkling, with lots of Padthaway Estate concentrated, dark, Johnstonaged characters adding Eliza Australia Blanc A good group of wines sweet fruit flavours on Adelaide Hillscomplexity. Nice crisp de Blanc 2008 HHH with some real stand- the long and complex Sparkling Shirazacid finish. $24.99 Nicely developed wine outs. \"An erratic class,\" palate, with firm tannins. Merlot NV HHH1/2Kersbrook Hill that has retained some noted one judge. \"The Good texture, balance Aged leathery nose withPremium Single of its primary fruit serious wines are not just and complexity. $29.95 herbal/savoury notes.Vineyard Adelaide characters. $25 sweet but have a touch of 2 Mates McLaren Persistent dark fruitHills Sparkling St Aidan Geographe savoury complexity while Vale Sparkling flavours, with subtleChardonnay Pinot Sparkling still maintaining Shiraz NV HHHH wood and a touch ofMeunier 2011 HHH Chardonnay fruit vibrancy.\" Stewed plum characters sweetness. $18Smells of lime juice and 2011 HHH on the nose, with ayeast. Creamy palate, Toasty, yeasty nose, with spicy lift and hints ofwith lovely flavours and nice grapefruit notes vanilla. Nice palatezesty acidity. $20 and lively, aromatic, fruit- richness, with sweet/ driven palate. $25 sour cherry flavours and savoury notes. $2580 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013

varietal tastingFox Creek Vixen Annie's Lane Barokes Broken Gate AUSTRALIANMcLaren Vale Quelltaler Clare Bin 171 Bubbly Coonawarra & NZSparkling Shiraz Valley Sparkling Cabernet Shiraz Sparkling Shiraz SPARKLINGCabernet Sauvignon Shiraz NV HHH1/2 Merlot NV HHH NV HHH REDCabernet Franc Aged chocolaty Fresh red berry nose and Leafy menthol and meat VINTAGENV HHH1/2 characters on the nose creamy palate, with dark fat nose. Some niceRich, spicy, red berry and firm, grippy, tannic fruit and mocha flavour plum characters on the 17 TASTEDbouquet and quite a palate with sour cherry combo. $3.50 soft palate. $25 9 AWARDEDcomplex palate, with flavours and savoury Centennialgood texture, lovely notes. $24.99 Australia Sparkling \"The better wines herefruit and subtle cedary Morris of Rutherglen Shiraz NV HHH showed soft, rich fruitwood. $22.50 Sparkling Shiraz Lighter red fruit aromas with balancing oak,\"Shingleback NV HHH which carry through to said one judge. \"WhileBlack Bubbles Interesting aromas of the palate with its oaky a number lacked fruitAustralia Sparkling mocha and bay leaf, and undertones. $25 intensity and were eitherShiraz NV HHH1/2 a dark fruit/mocha palate Oxenberry simple or linear in taste.\"Spicy, chocolaty nose and with a savoury edge. $20 Farm Farmgatecomplexity of dark cherry, Grant Burge Australia McLaren Vale Nillahcootie Estateplum and licorice flavours, Sparkling Shiraz Sparkling Shiraz Mansfield Sparklingwith supple tannins in Cabernet NV HHH Cabernet NV HHH Shiraz 2005 HHHHHsupport. $22.95 Smoky, meaty bouquet Dense dark fruit aromas Very bright red colour forJip Jip Rocks and plum/cherry palate, underscored with cedary its age. Great bead, spicyAustralia Sparkling with a hint of sweetness notes. Vibrant red fruit floral bouquet and goodShiraz NV HHH1/2 and tannic finish. $29.99 palate. $9 red fruit developmentSlightly tarry, porty Scarpantoni Black on the rich and nicelyaromas loaded with Tempest McLaren structured, slightly warm,vanilla. Thick and syrupy Vale Sparkling palate with lovely softin the mouth, with soft Shiraz NV HHH tannin support. $47tannin backbone. $19.95 Oak-driven style but nice fleshy fruit underneath. Some good winemaking here. $28 November/December 2013 W I N E S TAT E 81

CHAMPAGNE & SPARKLINGParinga South Majella Coonawarra Guerrieri Andre Delorme Sutherland EstateAustralia Sparkling Sparkling Shiraz Rizzardi Italy Cremant de Yarra ValleyShiraz 2012 HHHH 2008 HHH Prosecco NV HHH1/2 Bourgogne Sparkling Pinot NoirFresh, bright and vibrant, Almost jammy, raspberry Clean and crisp, with France Blanc de Chardonnaywith plums and mocha nose and simple, clean, subtle fruit sweetness Blancs NV HHH 2009 HHHH1/2on the nose and upfront fruit palate that has on both nose and palate. Light, toasty aromas, with Complex, developedfruit palate layered length and balance. $28 Good mouthfeel and nutty notes. Soft, supple aromas, with funkywith spicy, chocolaty gentle acidity. $25 palate - quite \"thick\" with autolysis notes. Palatecharacters. $15 PROSECCO soft flavours. $25 tastes of lemon pie andSeppelt Original La Riva dei strawberries filling theAustralia Sparkling 10 TASTED Frati Italy Prosecco Castillo de Perelada mouth with flavour andShiraz 2010 HHHH 7 AWARDED NV HHH Cava Brut showing a marzipan-likeSome lovely dark fruit Lifted red apple/floral Reserva Italy complexity. $30characters, with meaty The true prosecco style bouquet, with some citrus Brut Cava NV HHH Leura Parkundertones and lifted should be clean and crisp carrying through to the Citrus nose with creamy/ Estate Vintagefloral notes straddling and lemon-lime like with palate. Gentle acid. $25 yeasty note. Soft, nicely Grande Bellarinegreat primary/secondary sorbet characteristics developed palate - good Peninsula Blanc decharacters. $24.99 rather than trying to Astoria acid/sugar balance. $18.80 Blanc 2012 HHHH1/2Mollydooker Miss emulate champagne,\" Valdobbiadene Powerful creamy yeastMolly McLaren Vale commented one judge. Treviso Italy AUSTRALIAN autolysis obvious on theSparkling Shiraz Prosecco NV HHH & NZ nutty nose. Quite fruity2010 HHH1/2 Astoria Cartizze Zesty lemon bouquet SPARKLING on the palate, with lovelyA big, oaky style but Treviso Italy with a floral lift and $30-$40 creamy mouthfeel andpleasant and not over- Prosecco NV HHH1/2 clean, crisp, citrus-driven showing good weight,the-top. Some nice fruit, Nose of green apples palate. $40 26 TASTED with a long, cleansingcedary elements and with hints of figs and a 22 AWARDED line of acid. $30savoury tannins. $23 classic lemon sorbet-like Mt Buff AlpineSchild Estate prosecco palate with Valleys Prosecco The judges found a lotBarossa Valley lingering flavours. $45 2012 HHH to like here, with betterSparkling Shiraz Ripe pear nose and light, quality base wines. \"Age2009 HHH1/2 Andreola dry and elegant palate. is coming into play here,Interesting spicy Dirupo Superiore Good flavour length with adding complexity ofdevelopment to the Brut Italy Prosecco gentle acidity. $20 secondary characteristics,\"nose and bright, minty, 2011 HHH1/2 said one judge.red fruit flavours with a \"A serious wine,\" noted EUROPEANhint of vanilla. Ageing one judge. Great bead, SPARKLINGwell. $25 complex nose and fine,Foxeys Hangout elegant ripe apple palate 4 TASTEDMornington with yeasty notes. $30.80 2 AWARDEDPeninsula SparklingShiraz 2011 HHH This group was \"all overA tad simple, slightly the place,\" accordingsweet and shows good to one judge. The twolength and persistence wines that made it hereof dark fruit and vanillin showed good freshnessoak. $28 and clean fruit.DiGiorgio FamilyLucindaleCoonawarraSparkling Merlot2010 HHHBright confectioneryfruit aromas with hintsof violets. A complexityof chocolaty/floralflavours. $19Gatt High Eden Astoria LoungeBarossa Valley Treviso ItalySparkling Shiraz Prosecco NV HHH1/22007 HHH A classic prosecco noseRich nose and nicely - all floral and sherbety,rounded palate, with with a creamy red applesome primary fruit notes palate that's light andremaining. $25 refreshing. $2082 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013

varietal tastingColdstream Hills d'Arenberg Queens Pinch Pipers Vintage Brut 2008Yarra Valley Sparkling DADD Adelaide Vineyard Mudgee Delicate, yet complexChardonnay Pinot Hills Sparkling Brut NV HHH Rich and yet dry.Noir 2009 HHHH1/2 Chardonnay Pinot Fragrances of lemonsLime and lemon Noir Pinot Meunier and limes with light A new name in Tasmanianfragrances layered NV HHH1/2 toastiness. Punchy acidity Sparkling Wine from a trustedwith toasty, yeasty Fresh, lively and balanced on the citric palate. $37development leading wine, with delicate Longview Sparkling and renowned producer.on to a creamy, citric peaches and cream fruit, Wine Society W.palate, with some light yeasty notes and Wagtail Adelaide James Halliday Australian Winemelon-like notes and crisp acidity. $32 Hills Brut 2012 HHH Companion 2014: 94 Pointstight acidity. Lots of Palliser Estate Complex, toasty nose,interest here. $32.99 Martinborough with light Marmite touch Tony Keys, The Key Report: 94 PointsAkarua Central Methode and creamy, strawberry-Otago Brut NV HHHH Traditionnelle like palate. $30 www.pipersbrook.comHoneyed, toasty nose, 2008 HHH1/2 DiGiorgio Familywith hint of grapefruit Zesty lemon bouquet Coonawarra Blancand funky notes. with a hint of creme de Blanc 2012 HHHFlavoursome, tight, brulee. Palate brimming Grapefruit, melon andgreen, \"confident\", fruit over with flavour - some toasty aromas, andpalate with well-judged savoury elements. $37 a creamy, tropical/sweetness. $32.90 Paracombe stonefruit palate. $35Leura Park Estate Adelaide Hills Blue PyreneesVintage Grande Sparkling Pinot Noir Estate MidnightBellarine Peninsula Chardonnay NV HHH Cuvée 2009 HHHCuvée 2010 HHHH Toasty, nutty nose, with a Amazingly fresh,A fuller style with touch of lemon zest and bright, tight andloads of flavour. Has alert, mouthfilling, green youthful for its age, withcashews and biscuits apple flavours. $35 nice toasty/honeyedon the nose, with a development. $30touch of candy floss and Clover Hill Tasmania Killara Estate Yarraa creamy, persistent Cuvée NV HHH Valley Sparklingpalate. $30 Young, lean and mean, Cuvee 2009 HHHMiceli Michael with hints of roses and Rich, developed style,Mornington Peninsula limes, and some toasty with creamy, melon/Brut 2006 HHHH yeast autolysis. $33 peach fruit and slightlyAn aromatic, aged d'Arenberg austere acidity. $30white, with melon and The Peppermintstonefruit-like characters, Paddock McLarennice bottle development, Vale Chambourcincreamy notes and good NV HHHline of acid. $35 Dense inky, briary fruitMorton IQ5 New nose and big, funky/Zealand Sparkling earthy/chocolaty/licoriceNV HHH1/2 palate. $32Zesty grapefruitfragrances and a bighit of aged citrusflavours layeredwith some attractivetoastiness. $30.95CentennialBowral Blanc deBlancs NV HHH1/2Smells like a lemon tartwith similar characterson the palate. Goodcreamy weight and crispacidity to balance. $37Abel's TempestTasmania SparklingChardonnay PinotNoir 2010 HHH1/2Nose has delicate limejuice and yeasty aromas.Vibrant palate showing ahint of spice and a goodline of acid. $34.99 November/December 2013 W I N E S TAT E 83

CHAMPAGNE & SPARKLINGRobert Channon Ross HillWines Australia Vintage OrangeSparkling Brut 2009 HHH1/2Chardonnay Hints of marzipan on the2009 HHH nose and a citrus, freshHas both freshness and lemony palate, withcomplexity. Smells of reasonable length andcandied apricots with tight acidity. $40creamy, canned fruit K1 by Geoffflavours. $35 Hardy VintageTopper's Mountain Sparkling Pinot NoirNew England ChardonnaySparkling 2009 HHH1/2Chardonnay Pinot Developed, nutty andNoir 2009 HHH complex, with niceToasty, buttery, aged strawberry-like fruit onbouquet and complex, the nose and simple,toasty palate with good savoury palate but haslength and balance. $38 nice age. $60Pipers Vintage Brut Kreglinger Courabyra 805 Courabyra 805 Wills DomainTasmania Sparkling Vintage Brut Tumbarumba Tumbarumba Margaret RiverChardonnay Pinot Tasmania Sparkling Sparkling Pinot Noir Sparkling Pinot Noir SparklingNoir 2008 HHH Chardonnay Pinot Chardonnay Chardonnay Chardonnay NV HHHLight sherry-like Noir 2006 HHHHH Pinot Meunier Pinot Meunier A fresh, clean and livelycharacters on the nutty Lovely layers of roasted 2008 HHHH1/2 2001 HHHH1/2 lime and grapefruit style,nose and similar palate nuts, honey and biscuity Very fine wine. \"Looking A tight, elegant and with light autolysis andwith citric acidity. $38 characters, with lime-like stunning for her age,\" feminine wine that smells heaps of acid. $40 citrus fruit characters. commented one judge. of grapefruit with a floweryAUSTRALIAN Palate is fresh and fruity. Smells of grapefruit lift. Long, bright palate CHAMPAGNE& NZ \"Citrus meets tropical,\" with lovely nutty notes. with good fruit, strong UNDER $70SPARKLING said one judge. Edged Creamy mouthfeel. bubbles and crisp acidity.$40+ with good, rich, yeasty Great citric length and Nice mouthfeel. $65 9 TASTED notes. $45 good yeastiness. $45 Amadio Grande 8 AWARDED13 TASTED Clover Hill Vintage Heemskerk Reserve Australia13 AWARDED Release Pipers Coal River Brut NV HHHH Incredibly consistent River Methode Valley Sparkling A broad, creamy wine, group of high qualityOutstanding class for Traditionnelle Chardonnay Pinot with honeyed toasty champagnes, as to beAustralasian wines 2008 HHHH1/2 Noir 2008 HHHH1/2 aged nose showing expected, showingconsidering they are A full-flavoured, soft and Limes and lemons on hints of strawberry and excellent base winecompeting against the creamy style, with good the nose, with a slight roasted nuts. Much the and balance of fizz,non-vintage champagnes mousse. Yeasty and nutty fragrant floral lift. Complex same on the palate. $60 fruit and acid.at the same price. on the nose, with a palate palate verging on creamy, Moorilla Muse\"They are expressive that's still fresh yet has with some toasty Tasmania Brut Champagnein personality and lovely aged complexity nuances. Great texture 2008 HHHH Charpentier Millesimeindividuality. They are and good line of acid. $50 and length. $59.99 A fine, delicate sparkling, France Champagnestill 'new world' in style Yellowglen with subtle peach and 2008 HHHH1/2but are great within their XV Piccadilly melon bouquet, and Described by oneown genre.\" Sparkling Pinot Noir lean austere palate with judge as: \"A very sexy, Chardonnay a mouthwatering acid rich, complete andBird in Hand Joy 2004 HHHH1/2 finish. $49 mouthcoating wine\".Adelaide Hills A gorgeous creme Seville Estate Yarra Creamy lemon curdSparkling Pinot Noir brulee nose, with lovely Valley Blanc de nose and fresh, yet2007 HHHHH toasty development. Blanc 2011 HHH1/2 complex peaches andDescribed by one judge Great flavour depth and Very expressive fruit cream palate, with lovelyas \"Audrey Hepburn in persistence of fruit, nose - lovely youthful, texture. $56a glass!\" - it's elegant rich yeast autolysis, citrus aromas withand confident, with complexity and crisp some complexity. A firmgrapefruit-like bouquet acidity. $50 grapefruit palate, withand big, flavoursome tight acid. $45palate, soft and creamyin the mouth, with alertacidity. $7584 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013

varietal tasting Dupperey Veuve Clicquot Brut Moet & Chandon Ruinart France Premier Cru France Champagne Imperial Brut Champagne France Champagne NV HHHHH France Champagne NV HHHHH NV HHHH A delicate and elegant NV HHHH1/2 An excellent, classic style Tight lean aromas champagne. \"A sexy A tight, refined wine, beautifully aged - rich and reminiscent of oyster wine,\" according to one with great bead and balanced, with years of shells with well balanced judge. Some lemon curd interesting oyster life left in it yet. Light and lean green palate showing characters on the nose, characters on the nose tight grapefruit bouquet, good flavour depth and with a peaches and mingling with citrus and very fine and delicate persistence. $39.99 cream palate that has and floral elements. green apple palate, with a great complexity and Fresh, crisp palate fine line of acid. $125 Mumm Brut length. $96.99 with delicate, creamy France Champagne Laurent-Perrier Brut complexity. $74.99 NV HHHH France Champagne A lovely style, with NV HHHH1/2 Drappier Andre Et wonderful yeast Described by one judge Michel France Brut autolysis, youthful as a \"generous, giving Nature NV HHHH melon/peach fruit, some wine\". Fresh strawberry Very creamy and soft, with roasted nut elements and white peach nose, nice nutty notes to the and firm, crisp acidity to and similar flavours on nose and a well-developed balance it all. $69.99 the creamy palate, with palate that's full of flavour very good yeast autolysis and sits in the savoury Drappier elements. $84.99 spectrum. $81 Millesime ExceptionChampagne France Champagne Billecart-Salmon Drappier GrandeCharpentier Terre 2006 HHHH Extra Brut Sendree Franced'Emotion France A lot of lovely aged France Champagne ChampagneBrut NV HHHH1/2 characters here. Smells NV HHHH1/2 2005 HHHHFine and delicate, with like marmalade on toast Great complexity here; Very complex, witha melange of bruised and tastes of canned a lovely combination loads of aged charactersapples, peach skin and fruit. Excellent palate of roasted cashews, and very expressive andcashew nut aromas. weight and depth. $50 figs, and stonefruit persistent flavours thatBeautifully layered characters, with bright evolve along the lengthpalate, with very good Lanson Gold Label lemon/citrus overtones of the palate. $81lemon curd-like flavour France Champagne and underscored byprofile and length. $58 2002 HHHH lively acidity. $85 CHAMPAGNE Pol Roger FranceChampagne Showing lots of lovely Pol Roger France $100 - $200 Brut 2002 HHHHHCharpentier aged characters giving the Brut NV HHHH1/2 A silky smooth,Tradition France wine loads of complexity. Complex nose showing 2 TASTED seamless integrationBrut NV HHHH Has good depth of blue cheese-like 2 AWARDED of the fruit, yeast, agedComplex aromas, with flavour and shows great characters mingling characters and acidity.slight blue cheese-like poise. $62.99 with the roasted nut Two superb wines - one Masses of complexitynotes. Soft and creamy and fig elements. Great a classic aged vintage on the nose and subtletexture to the palate that's Jose Dhondt France peachy fruit flavours the other a lovely elegant but powerful flavoursrich with flavour. Lovely Champagne NV HHH nicely balanced by some blanc-de-blanc style. that are fresh, lifted andacid backbone. $50 Powerful, aromatic excellent fresh acidity. $90 complex. $125 grapefruit nose. Fresh lemony palate - clean STAR RATINGS  and crisp. Just needs time. $65 Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. CHAMPAGNE All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry $70 - $100 professionals and are compared in peer classes by three judges. 7 TASTED CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, 7 AWARDED a major mail-order business. CD Cellar door price. \"These wines reflect the CDO Cellar door only. wine region more than SO Sold out. any other variety or style,\" $N/A Price not available at time of printing. said one judge. \"This gives  Contact information pg 144. the buyer confidence that they are getting RECOMMENDED cellaring (years). excellent value and quality For a complete list of what we tasted for their money. please refer to www.winestate.com.au November/December 2013 W I N E S TAT E 85

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINLIMESTONE COASTSEASIDE DINING vegetable garden, and are grown topped with Kalangadoo trout roe. Mains specifically to coincide with our menu. An choices may include lamb rack servedTHE Wild Mulberry Cafe is a huge favourite appreciation for the history of wine and with potato galette, spinach, carrotsin the Limestone Coast seaside resort of food is used to try and merge the two in and red wine jus or seared salmon withRobe. Wild Mulberry proprietors Paul and harmony to provide a unique experience. licorice jelly, pink grapefruit, asparagusKiri Birchall source local ingredients to Food is an art and I thoroughly enjoy and vanilla mayonnaise. There are winescreate a selection of contemporary cafe fare combining the ingredients together to matched to each dish, some availablewhether your are in the mood for a hearty bring to life something unique.\" The lunch by the glass. The dessert menu featuresbreakfast, a long lunch or a night out at one of menu features dishes like a trio of house- the likes of honey and rose panna cotta,the regular seasonal dinners. Barista-made made dips and oils with Pendleton wild pomegranate sorbet, rose pashmak andAmanti coffee and an extensive selection baby olives, toasted ciabatta and lavosh; blueberry coulis; and Belgian chocolateof home baked treats complement the grilled chicken with bacon, avocado fudge cake, honeycomb ice cream andmenu, which features dishes like Moreton crystallised violet petals. A best regionalBay risotto with baby spinach in a garlic, restaurant finalist in this year’s Restaurantwhite wine and cream sauce; salt and and Catering Association South Australiapepper prawns with a sweet green chilli, awards, Penola Station is open sevencucumber, red onion and coriander salad days a week with lunch served fromand Mediterranean chicken salad with 11.30am-2.30pm and dinner from 6pm.rocket, feta, pine nuts, roast capsicum, sun- The wine list features a good selection ofdried tomato, olives and croutons. There is wines from boutique producers, includingalso a daily blackboard of specials and the Koonara, whose cellar door is just a coupleeatery is fully licensed. Wild Mulberry Cafe of doors away, Patrick of Coonawarra,46 Victoria St, Robe; phone (08) 8768 2488. Raidis, Reschke and Banks Thargo,www.wildmulberrycafe.com.au. among others. Penola Station Restaurant, 48 Church St, Penola; phone (08) 8737 3350. www.penolastation.com.au.PASSION FOR and spinach topped with hollandaise on DREAM COME TRUEPENOLA PRODUCE Turkish bread; and six-hour, slow-braised lamb shank served on truffled mash with FAMILY owned and operated, Raidis EstatePENOLA, the major town in the Coonawarra green string beans. The dinner menu shifts is Coonawarra’s new “kid” on the block whenwine district, has said farewell to the Terra a gear into fine dining with starters like it comes to wine. The Raidis family has livedRossa Wine Club and hello to Penola seared scallops, salad of orange, Sicilian and worked in the Coonawarra community forStation restaurant. “My passion is to capers, radish, lemon oil and trout roe; and the past 40 years, has a hands-on approachcreate original, beautifully crafted meals oysters pickled in red wine vinegar and to wine production and is actively involved inusing local produce,” says head chef star anise stock with cucumber linguini, all stages of the process. At the age of three,Tom Palmer. “Focusing on freshnessand quality, some ingredients are hand-picked from the hydroponic and organic86 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013

travelbriefsChrisRaidisleftruralGreeceforSouthAustralia. NEW CUSTODIANS with a population of almost 5000, NaracoorteHe dreamed of growing his own vines and offers a variety of accommodation options,producing premium wine, just as his father THE Hesketh family assumed custodianship ranging from B&Bs, hotels, motels,and grandfather had done in Greece. This of Parker Coonawarra Estate from the bunkhouses, caravan parks and campingpassion for creating wine was also passed on Rathbone Wine Group in early 2013. With areas. There’s a similar diversity of diningto Steven, Chris’ youngest son, who now runs over 50 years experience in the wine out options, with the fully licensed TheRaidisEstatewithhiswife,Emma.RaidisEstate industry, their philosophy is to retain John Highlander Restaurant at the Sundownercellar door is situated on the northern edge of Parker’s original vision for the estate and William MacIntosh Motel offering al aPenola and within walking distance of the town focus on the core elements that make carte meals and a selection of local wines.centre. Drop in and catch up with Chris, Emma Parker Estate special: the most appropriate Maddies Cafe is known for its warm countryor Steven for a tasting and you might even grape varieties and clones, grown on the service and quality coffee, while there is ameet Billy the goat, who was the inspiration for right soil profile in the best locations within kids’ play area at Settlers Cafe that enablesthe original cabernet sauvignon label. Raidis Coonawarra and to make the best possible adults to relax while they lunch.Estate is open Thursday-Monday noon-6pm wines from the region. Jonathon Hesketh Above: Majella cellar door.and is on Riddoch Hwy, Coonawarra; phone said he planned to nurture the brand and Below: Parker Coonawarra Estate.(08) 8737 2966. www.raidisestate.com.au. the winemaking to ensure the best possible wines are produced, retaining the integrity of Opposite pageLOOKING GOOD First Growth and Terra Rossa wines as well Above: Wild Mulberry Cafe in Robe. as the development of new Coonawarra- Below: Penola Station restaurant and platingTHERE is a new look to one of Coonawarra’s based varietals to replace wines made up of their tasting plates.most popular tasting venues – the Majella from outside the region. Pete Bissell andcellar door. While co-owner Brian Lynn says: Peter Balnaves remain consultants with Phil“we didn’t do much” – he admits the styling Lehmann, son of the late Peter Lehmann,included “new bench work with some nice joining the winemaking team from August.spotted gum bench tops, new carpets, new The Parker Coonawarra Estate cellar door iscolour scheme and a couple of new cabinets”. on Riddoch Hwy, Penola; phone (08) 8737Lynn says, with classic understatement: “It 3525. It is open daily from 10am-4pm. www.seems to work OK and everyone seems parkercoonawarraestate.com.au.pleased with it”. Majella is one of the leadingboutique producers in Coonawarra and NARRACORTE DELIVERSalso one of the leading grape growers. The ON LOCAL FAREbusiness was founded in 1969 and Majellanow produces around 25,000 cases of wine VISITORS to the Wrattonbully vineyarda year. The Majella cellar door is at Lynn Rd, region of the Limestone Coast have severalCoonawarra and is open seven days 10am- dining options in the town of Narracorte.4.30pm. www.majellawines.com.au. Midway between Adelaide and Melbourne November/December 2013 W I N E S TAT E 87

114 TASTED84 AWARDEDLIMESTONE COASTA strong showing from this prestigious southern Norfolk Rise Vineyard DiGiorgiocool-climate region. There is an evolution here with Mount Benson Sauvignon Family Kongorongchardonnay moving to a more chablis-like style, Blanc 2013 HHH1/2 Riesling 2012 HHHHappropriate for its terroir and somewhat surprising Light, ripe, tropical aromas and Citrussy nose - slightly agedis the quality of riesling, viognier and pinot gris at the some powerful tropical fruit but still fresh. Nice varietalelegant end of the spectrum. Of course, the region flavours nicely balanced by the characters on the slightly sweetis known for its cabernet sauvignon wines, but don’t crisp acidity. $16 palate, but has the acid todismiss the shiraz wines here, which excelled in a balance it. $19vibrant, well-structured, mid-weight style. DiGiorgio Family Lucindale Limestone LeconfieldSPARKLING Wood Block Wines Coast Sauvignon Blanc Old Vines Coonawarra Amity Coonawarra 2012 HHH1/2 Riesling 2012 HHH4 TASTED Viognier 2010 HHHH Aromas of asparagus and fresh Developing aged riesling2 AWARDED Typically oily pungent varietal cut grass. High acid palate - aromas and sweet aged apple, nose and soft palate, with good combo of mineral, herbal pear and citrus flavours. $24.95One sparkling white and one some developed fruit flavours, and apple flavours. $18sparkling red recommended here; hints of herbs and soft acid Majella Coonawarrawell made for easy drinking. finish. $18 Jamiesons Run Limestone Riesling 2012 HHH Coast Sauvignon Blanc Light lemon and lime bouquet,Karatta Robe Wood Block Wines Amity Semillon 2013 HHH with hints of roses and aSparkling Cabernet Coonawarra Viognier Smells of fresh herbs and grassy/herbal palate. $17Sauvignon NV HHH 2006 HHHH apples, with a crisp, cleanLovely complexity of aromas and Attractive toasty age on the palate showing good flavour CHARDONNAYbright creamy red berry palate. nose; hints of apricot. Elegant complexity. $14.99Nice age. Soft tannins. $16 palate, with slightly oily 15 TASTED viognier flavours. Very good RIESLING 9 AWARDEDDiGiorgio Family example of an aged wine. $18Coonawarra Blanc de 5 TASTED \"The good wines showedBlanc 2012 HHH Norfolk Rise Vineyard 4 AWARDED attention to detail by theNice yeasty complexity, slightly Mount Benson Pinot winemakers; elegant complexitydeveloped and with background Grigio 2013 HHH1/2 The judges found these a without ego extension.\"of green apples. $35 Typical pinot gris nose - spicy consistent group of rieslings Some restraint exercised here and fresh followed by a classic tending to linear, tighter, compared with the past\", saidOTHER WHITE varietal palate - some apples citric styles. one judge. \"We are seeingVARIETALS and hints of herbs. $16 tighter citrus wines rather than the old overripe, blousy wines.\"5 TASTED Koonara Wines Lucy &4 AWARDED Alice Mt Gambier Pinot Jamiesons Run Gris 2013 HHH Limestone CoastSome very promising viogniers Fresh pear fragrances and Chardonnay 2012 HHHH1/2and pinot gris here. \"There flavours. Nice level of acidity A new complex style with ais a consumer demand for and soft on the finish. $19.95 slightly developed oily noseboth these varietals and this and funky notes. Medium-region has the potential for fine SAUVIGNON weight palate, with attractiveversions of both.\" BLANC & BLENDS nectarine flavours, more of the funkiness and nice nutty oak 8 TASTED kicking in. $14.99 3 AWARDED Patrick of Coonawarra Koonara Wines The Some forward wines here, Aged Riesling 2010 HHHH Marquise Mt Gambier with the best ready for Attractive slightly toasty riesling Chardonnay 2012 HHHH drinking now. bouquet and soft layered A restrained European style citrus/apple palate. A touch of with a complexity of austere toastiness but still showing fruit characters, nice malo freshness. $39 notes and savoury elements. \"A winemakers' wine.\" $24.9588 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013

regional tastingPenley Estate ROSE Hand Crafted by Geoff DiGiorgio FamilyAradia Coonawarra Hardy Lagrein 2010 HHHH Lucindale LimestoneChardonnay 2011 HHH1/2 2 TASTED Perfumed inky bouquet and a Coast Merlot 2010 HHHHComplex, buttery, toasty nose 1 AWARDED balanced palate that fills the Spicy plum aromas with a bigand big, complex, sweet palate mouth with black fruit flavours, oaky hit. Powerful oak/tanninwith funky flavours. Well made One nice drinking rosé! soft tannins and high level of palate shows light minty fruitconsidering the vintage. $19.99 alcohol. $30 flavours and has a long, softBlack Wattle Mt Benson Tidswell Wines finish. $20Chardonnay 2012 HHH Heathfield Ridge Hand Crafted Leconfield CoonawarraSlightly developed, perfumed, Cabernet Rosé 2013 HHH by Geoff Hardy Dolcetto Merlot 2012 HHH1/2varietal nose and full-flavoured, Smells of glacé cherries 2012 HHH1/2 An elegant wine with earthyslightly creamy stonefruit mixed with herbs, with similar A touch meaty and earthy on plum fruit, good oak, nicepalate. $26.99 characters on the sweet but the nose leading to a bright, tannin structure and soft acid.Berton Pewter Label balanced palate. $19 vibrant palate loaded with fresh Good example of an AussieCoonawarra Chardonnay spicy fruit flavours. $30 merlot. $24.952012 HHH PINOT NOIRSimple, sweet, tropical fruit MERLOT & BLENDS CABERNETaromas and linear citrus 3 TASTED BLENDSflavours, with gentle acid and 2 AWARDED 4 TASTEDoak nuttiness. $12 3 AWARDED 6 TASTEDMt Monster \"Easy drinkers but more varietal 5 AWARDEDLimestone Coast character please,\" said the judges. \"Excellent group of blends bothChardonnay 2012 HHH here and with the cabernet Majella MalleeaLight, elegant, citrus/melon Karatta Robe blend category which shows Coonawarra Cabernetbouquet and stonefruit palate, Pinot Noir 2012 HHH the strength of the aromatic Sauvignon Shirazwith slight herbal edge and Good earthy pinot nose and red varieties from the region,\" 2009 HHHHcreamy oak. $15.95 dark berry palate layered with said one judge. Minty, chocolaty, dark berryBanks Thargo Nineteen- creamy oak. $16 bouquet and upfront, leafy,Nineteen Coonawarra DiGiorgio Family minty cabernet flavours on aChardonnay 2012 HHH Norfolk Rise Vineyard Emporio Coonawarra palate showing a soft tanninOak dominates the nose, Mount Benson Merlot Cabernet structure. $75with more oak on the big, Pinot Noir 2012 HHH Sauvignon Cabernet Penley Estate Chertseydeveloped palate with savoury Spicy, stalky aromas and full- Franc 2009 HHHH1/2 Coonawarra Cabernetelements. $18 flavoured cherry berry palate Very attractive, complex and Sauvignon Merlot CabernetJip Jip Rocks with good level of tannins. $16 lifted fruit nose, with beautiful Franc 2010 HHH1/2Padthaway Unoaked combination of berry fruits and Slightly stewed spicy fruitChardonnay 2012 HHH OTHER RED sweet oak flavours. Showing characters on the nose. CreamyAn elegant, well made wine VARIETALS nice bottle age characters and palate, powerful black fruit, charrywith some citrus, a floral lift good tannin structure. $23 oak and drying tannins. $50.50and high level of acid. $19.95 2 TASTED Mother of Pearl CabernetDiGiorgio Family 2 AWARDED Merlot 2010 HHHLucindale Limestone Coast Developed leathery nose;Chardonnay 2012 HHH A couple of interesting varietals touch pruney. Full-bodied, full-A lighter style, with fresh citrus that are worth persevering flavoured palate. Good tanninand stonefruit characters, and with. \"This shows that there is structure. $19an oak background. $20 scope for other than the main Wynns Coonawarra stream varieties of the region,\" Cabernet Shiraz Merlot noted one judge. 2010 HHH Powerful oak-driven blend with a very attractive soft blackberry fruit structure. $24.99Amelia Nolan Greg Tilbrook JUDGESManaging Director Barossa based winemakingfor the Argento Wine consultant. Formerly senior Rob RuedigerCompany, specialising in winemaker Watson Wine Wine consultant.Argentinian Wines. 20 years Group. Former winemaker Formerly seniorinternational wine business at Wynns Coonawarra production winemakerin Australia and the UK, winery for five years. at Accolade Wineswith world wide brands. Previously winemaker at (Hardy Wine Company) Amberley Estate, Margaret involving all varieties River for six years. and styles. Wine judge Completed a vintage in at Brisbane Wine Show. Languedoc, France. November/December 2013 W I N E S TAT E 89

LIMESTONE COASTThe Blok Estate Jacob's Creek St Hugo Wynns Glengyle Barrister's BlockCoonawarra Cabernet Coonawarra Cabernet Coonawarra Cabernet Wrattonbully CabernetMerlot 2008 HHH Sauvignon 2010 HHHH1/2 Sauvignon 2009 HHHH1/2 Sauvignon 2010 HHH1/2Big nose; lifted aged Good regional varietal A lovely, elegant, Coonawarra Minty cabernet characters oncharacters. Upfront aged prune expression obvious here, with a cabernet with full, complex, the nose with plenty of oakflavours. Drying tannins. High complexity and persistence of fruit/oak aromas and a palate and good balance and length ofalcohol. $23 ripe dark fruit, vanilla oak, some still showing fresh red berry savoury/sweet flavours. $30 earthy elements, hints of mint fruit with a light touch of vanilla Katnook EstateCABERNET and drying tannins. $49.99 oak and savoury/olive-like Coonawarra CabernetSAUVIGNON Penley Estate Reserve notes. $69.99 Sauvignon 2010 HHH1/2 Coonawarra Cabernet Mt Monster Limestone Oak dominates the ripe32 TASTED Sauvignon 2010 HHHH1/2 Coast Cabernet Sauvignon blackberry fruit nose which is24 AWARDED Bright, sweet, cabernet fruit 2011 HHHH echoed on the well-structuredA very strong class of well-rated aromas, with a violet-like floral lift. Earthy nose, with hints of palate. Great flavour length. $40wines that are a step above the Sweet oak dominates the palate prunes and some unusual Malone Wrattonbullypack! Although the 11s generally and has masses of powerful rhubarb/sweet sour cherry-like Cabernet Sauvignonstruggled, the dense fruit of the velvety tannins. A lovely, long and flavours nicely balanced by the 2009 HHH1/22010 vintage showed through elegant cabernet. $50.50 lovely tannins. $15.95 Minty, leafy fragrances, with theand winemakers who used oak Koonara Wines Angel's minty characters quite dominantappropriately had standout wines. Patrick of Coonawarra Peak Coonawarra Cabernet on the mid-weight palate. Good\"Over-oaking is not the future.\" Home Block Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 HHHH balancing tannins. $25 Sauvignon 2010 HHHH1/2 An elegant style, with Patrick of CoonawarraPenley Estate Tolmer A more elegant style, with fragrances of mulberries and Grande Reserve CabernetCoonawarra Cabernet a minty green and mulberry plums, and almost prune-like Sauvignon 2006 HHH1/2Sauvignon 2010 HHHHH bouquet showing some leathery flavours with lovely chamois Attractive, mature, chocolaty/Spicy oak and cassis fruit age elements. Palate still has soft tannins. $11.95 leathery bouquet and well-aged,bouquet - very attractive. some berry fruit evident but Morambro Creek leathery palate with someExcellent palate that fills the dominated by the bottle age. Padthaway Cabernet pruney fruit persistence. $125mouth with powerful dark ripe Still a good drink. $39 Sauvignon 2010 HHHH Jacob's Creek Reserveberry flavours and has plenty of Attractive fruit/oak aromas; Coonawarra Cabernetoak to match, with substantial ageing well. Great complexity Sauvignon 2012 HHHbut svelte tannins. $32 and balance of briary fruit Vibrant, spicy, cherry fruit withWynns Black Label and oak flavours on a well- loads of creamy oak and goodCoonawarra Cabernet structured palate. $31.95 tannin structure. $17.99Sauvignon 2010 HHHH1/2 Mojo by Rockbare Cabernet Lindeman's Bin 45A well-structured wine with Sauvignon 2011 HHH1/2 Australia Cabernetvery good cabernet varietal A lovely combination of earthy, Sauvignon 2012 HHHfruit matched by well-handled briary characters on nose and Leafy, earthy aromas. Simplecomplementary vanillin oak palate. Olive-like savoury notes red and black fruit flavours.and substantial tannins but and persistent tannins. $18 Hints of olives and savourystill in balance with the other Berton Reserve complexity. $9.99elements. $39.99 Coonawarra Cabernet Wood Block Wines AmityDiGiorgio Family Sauvignon 2010 HHH1/2 Coonawarra CabernetCoonawarra Cabernet A very good example of a Sauvignon 2010 HHHSauvignon 2009 HHHH1/2 Coonawarra cabernet with its Candied fruit characters onA big, powerful nose with upfront cassis fruit, spicy oak the nose and sweet fruit/oakexcellent fruit/oak complexity. and lovely tannic length. $17 combination of flavours. $18Soft in the mouth with nicely Tidswell Wines Heathfield Karatta Robe Cabernetdeveloped flavour profile but Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon 2010 HHHhints of fresh berries, very 2010 HHH1/2 Good drinking commercialgood oak and balancing tannin A blend of black cherry and oak style. Ripe, slightly developedstructure. $23 aromas with minty notes. Sweet blackberry fruit and spicy oak. $19 varietal fruit flavours nicely Hand Crafted by integrated with the oak. $22.50 Geoff Hardy Cabernet Wolf Blass Sauvignon 2010 HHH Gold Label Cabernet Nose more savoury than Sauvignon 2010 HHH1/2 sweet, with plenty of tabac and Dense, brooding, chocolaty briary fruit-like flavours. $30 nose. Powerful cabernet palate. The Blok Estate Good tannin structure that adds Coonawarra Cabernet sweetness to the palate. $27.99 Sauvignon 2008 HHH Savoury aromas complement the fruit with good aged complexity on the soft palate. $2590 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013

Ralph Fowler Wines is committed to producing limited Please feel free to contact Ralph Fowler winesquantities of hand crafted premium quality wines. via any of the following methods:The vineyard is planted with selected clones of Shiraz, Viognier Phone: +61 8 8768 5000and Merlot and the latest viticultural technologies have been Fax: +61 8 8768 5008incorporated into the vineyard plantings. Email: [email protected] Lyre trellis system will give fruit of the best possible quality www.ralphfowlerwines.com.auand allow the production of fruit driven wines with strong Location:varietal expression and superior mouthfeel. PRD irrigation 101 Limestone Coast Roadpractices ensures quality grapes are produced as well as taking a Mount Bensonmajor step toward environmentally sustainable agriculture. South Australia Postal Address: PO Box 423 Kingston SE South Australia 5275 AUSTRALIAwww.ralphfowlerwines.com.au

LIMESTONE COASTSHIRAZ & BLENDS Tidswell Wines Heathfield Katnook Estate Barrister's Block Ridge Shiraz 2010 HHHH Coonawarra Shiraz The Bully Wrattonbully24 TASTED Intense sweet berry bouquet; 2010 HHH1/2 Shiraz 2010 HHH22 AWARDED hints of mint and meaty notes. Lean, green, austere style of A full-bodied wine, with loads Similar characters on the shiraz with vibrant crimson of blackberry fruit threaded\"Don't look for big, ripe fruit palate. Mouthcoating tannins. hues. A very flavoursome and through with charry oak. $30styles here,\" said one judge. Very drinkable. $22.50 well-made wine. $22 The Bryson\"These are mid-weight, leaner, Morambro Creek Barrel Select Padthawaycool-climate styles of pure Greg Norman Reserve Padthaway Shiraz Shiraz Cabernetstructure.\" \"It was great to see Robe Shiraz 2010 HHHH 2010 HHH1/2 Sauvignon 2010 HHHrestrained oak use where the Well-made cool-climate shiraz. Good commercial style. Savoury, woody nose andfruit doesn't have the power to Intense spicy berry nose, \"You can taste the fruit,\" said sweet, chocolaty, oak palatetake it,\" noted another. hints of vanilla. Spicy sweet one judge. Good flavour with quite a tannic finish. $55 berry flavours, with vanillin oak persistence, soft tannins, clean Koonara WinesWynns Black passing through. $50 oak. 3-5 $31.95 Angel's Peak CoonawarraLabel Coonawarra Shiraz Katnook Estate Shiraz 2009 HHH2010 HHHH1/2 Bowen Estate Coonawarra Prodigy Coonawarra Smells of toffee and chocolate.Dark, brooding, berry bouquet Shiraz 2009 HHHH Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 Oak-dominated flavours withwith chocolaty elements and Lots of spicy oak on the nose Big, powerful wine that is a hint of mint. Gentle tannins.mouthfilling palate - soft and and great persistence of dark probably at its peak. Nicelyapproachable, with loads of spicy, berries underneath. Savoury aged fruit with chocolaty 3-5 $11.95dark, red fruit flavours showing a flavours and powerful tannins. overtones but still surprisingly DiGiorgio Familyslight spicy twist. $39.99 A keeper. 5+ $28 youthful. $100 Coonawarra Shiraz Wynns Coonawarra 2009 HHHMalone Wrattonbully The Blok Estate Shiraz 2012 HHH Brambles, herbs and coffeeShiraz 2010 HHHH Coonawarra Shiraz Lean and austere; oak quite on the nose, with interestingWell-structured, full-flavoured 2009 HHHH dominant, but has some fresh, developing flavour profile.shiraz, with complexity and An elegant, vibrant, well-made lively, berry fruit with a pepperypersistence of ripe dark berry wine, with spicy berry fragrances. lift. $24.99 3-5 $23fruit, sweet vanillin oak and Palate shows good integration of Black Wattle Mt Bensongood tannin balance. $28 fruit, acid and tannins. Still a baby. Shiraz 2011 HHH SWEET WHITES White pepper dominates the 5+ $23.50 earthy nose. Palate is elegant and 4 TASTED lively and quite Rhone-like. $32.99 3 AWARDED Penley Estate Special Mt Monster Limestone Select Coonawarra Shiraz Coast Shiraz 2011 HHH Pertaringa 2010 HHH1/2 An elegant, cool-climate shiraz Moscato 2013 HHHH Bright, perfumed aromas with with soft berry fruit, some pepper Gorgeous sweet muscat nice floral notes. Powerful oak and nice use of oak. $15.95 grape aromas and excellent palate layered with elegant fruit. Melino The Mile Mundulla persistence of lovely muscat Strong tannin finish. $50.50 Shiraz Cabernet flavours, with a good acid spine Sauvignon 2010 HHH and tannic finish. $18Norfolk Rise Vineyard Mother of Pearl Solid confectionery nose with DiGiorgio FamilyMount Benson Shiraz Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 lots of oak and good fruit Lucindale Limestone2010 HHHH Herbaceous characters to the expression on the palate. $10 Coast Botrytis SemillonNose of licorice and spice, with nose with bright fruit flavours Karatta Robe 2011 (500ml) HHHa menthol edge. Interesting, showing green edges; good Shiraz Cabernet A complexity of honeyed limeslightly astringent, spicy green acid and drying tannins. $19 Sauvignon 2010 HHH marmalade aromas and lusciouspalate. Powerful tannic finish. Nice earthy, plum aromas and sweet fruit flavours. $20 sweet fruit and oak flavours. Hand Crafted 5+ $16 Not overly complex but a good by Geoff Hardy Noble wine. $16 Intent Botrytis Verdelho STAR RATINGS  Karatta Robe 2010 (375ml) HHH Shiraz 2010 HHH Creme caramel bouquet andThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of Meaty notes to the earthy rich, flavoursome, sticky,excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. nose. Nice combo of sweet sweet, sultana-like palate. $25All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry fruit layered with leatheryprofessionals and are compared in peer elements. $19classes by three judges.CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters,a major mail-order business.CD Cellar door price.CDO Cellar door only.SO Sold out.$N/A Price not available at time of printing. Contact information pg 144. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).For a complete list of what we tastedplease refer to www.winestate.com.au92 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013



travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINHUNTER VALLEYON THE MOVE Alexander Munro range of wines, featuring wine list, while food is locally sourced with a shiraz, semillon and chardonnay, are the an emphasis on playful bar snacks, shareONE of the Hunter Valley’s best-known company’s flagship releases. The Eather plates and grazing options. Visitors to theboutique wineries, family-owned Meerea boys are also one part of Next Generation Steel City can also hit the bustling cafes andPark, has moved into new cellar door Hunter Valley - a collaboration between six wine bars along Darby St or Hunter Streetdigs in one of the Hunter’s most visible Hunter Valley winemakers who every year Mall. Check out Frankies Place for intriguinglocations - the Tempus Two facility on the take their wines on a travelling road show food and cocktails, or enjoy coffee blendscorner of Broke and McDonalds roads. up and down the Australian east coast, and “olde worlde” charm at One PennyOwners of Meerea Park, winemaker Rhys keen to show the diversity and excitement Black. For water views, try family favouriteEather and his brother, Garth, have been surrounding modern Hunter Valley wines. hot spots Honeysuckle and Queens Wharf.crafting fine Hunter Valley wines made The Meerea Park cellar door is at 2144 Popular picks include The Wharf Restaurantwith fruit from some of the region’s best Broke Rd, Pokolbin, and is open seven and Bar, where modern Australian meetsvineyards sites since 1991. Previously days a week from 10am-5pm. Mediterranean in a relaxed indoor-outdoorat the former Boutique Wine Centre site setting, The Landing with contemporarysince 1997, Meerea Park closed that cellar CHANGING TIMES cuisine paired with live music, or Craft and Codoor in May, packed up their prized wine Burgers - Newcastle’s latest burger haven.collection and headed to Tempus Two, THERE’S change afoot on the Newcastleowned by the Roche family, where they dining scene with the closure of long-time NEW FACESoccupy a renovated and refurbished favourite eatery Bacchus and the opening110sqm space. of Reserve Wine Bar in the city’s former ANZ VERY few Australian wine producers can bank building at 102 Hunter St. The wine claim 120 years of continuous winegrowing The complex also includes The Smelly bar, with wine and blogger writer Patrick but Oakvale Wines is one of those few, withCheese Shop, Oishi Restaurant, Goldfish Haddock as one of the partners, seats 120 its history dating back to 1893 when thebar and cocktail lounge, The Barrel Room patrons and its restaurant uses the former Elliott family planted its first vines.and Tempus Two’s own cellar door. While bank’s strongroom as a coolroom, while thethe Meerea Park winery is into its 23rd basement serves as a wine cellar. Reserve Now, 120 years later, the winery isyear, the winemaking history of the Eather continuing to grow and expand with the will have a strong focus on organic and recent announcement that two industryfamily dates back more than a century. biodynamic wines, as well as “the old, the professionals are joining the team. BobIn 1850, Rhys and Garth’s great-great new, the undiscovered and the quirky”, Powell has been appointed generalgrandfather, Alexander Munro, established and chef Jose Miguel and front of house manager and Stewart Field named asBebeah Vineyard in Singleton. The Eathers manager Josh Anlezark have both joined vineyard manager. “This is a special yearpay homage to their roots with their wine from Jose’s restaurant at Arnott’s Bakery for the team,” said Oakvale winemakerlabel design featuring an illustration of in Morpeth. Haddock says the wine bar, James Becker. “We are celebrating aan intricate gas lamp and fountain which which opened in September, has the city’s significant milestone in one of Australia’sAlexander had commissioned and shipped most comprehensive wine offering on a 250- oldest winegrowing regions. We haveover from Scotland, and the Meerea Park reinvigorated the winemaking and recently re-launched our cellar door. This is another exciting step forward for the brand.” Powell played a key role in the expansion of Casella Wines, while Field has undertaken extensive research in viticulture in New South Wales. Oakvale recently celebrated the opening of an impressive $1 million refurbishment of its cellar door and winery. The Oakvale tasting facility is part of one of the oldest working wineries in the Hunter and is open seven days 10am-5pm except Christmas Day and New Years Day. It is at 1596 Broke Rd, Pokolbin; phone (02) 4998 7088. www. oakvalewines.com.au.94 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013

travelbriefsPREMIUM TASTING PACKAGE in either the indoor or outdoor terrace, Bathrooms feature underfloor heating and both boasting stunning views across the heated towel rails, twin basins, a spa bathLONG-TIME Hunter Valley cellar door vineyards. Visitors are able to select from and both an overhead rain shower andfavourite Hungerford Hill has launched a menu of four tasting options: Introduction directional shower. The suites also includewhat it believes will be a new benchmark to the Hunter Valley (six wines plus cheese complimentary arrival mini bar, Nespressofor wine tourism by creating the region’s plate, $12.50 per person), Classic Tasting coffee machines and features includingfirst seated premium food and wine (four wines with four tasting bites, $28), DVD players, iPod Docks and CD players.matching experience for visitors. Visitors Collection Tasting (four aged wines with The new accommodation takes the totalto Hungerford Hill, awarded the region’s four tasting bites, $38) and Ultimate Tasting number of rooms at Spicers Vineyardsbest cellar door experience at the 2012 (eight wines matched with six tasting bites, Estate to 12, adding to eight king spa guestHunter Valley Legends and Wine Industry $60). Tastings are available 11am-3pm, suites. Located on its own private vineyardAwards, will be offered seated tastings Wednesday to Sunday. Following the in Pokolbin, with views to the Brokenbackfeaturing access to a range of premium, wine tasting guests may choose to enjoy Mountain Range, Spicers Vineyards Estatelimited release and museum wines. The a cheese platter or a salumi platter with is the ideal base to explore the Hunter.wine tastings will be matched to a specially a glass of wine on the outdoor terrace.created platter of matching tasting-sized Visitors with a more casual interest in The estate also features an award-bites, prepared by staff of award-winning wine will still have the option to partake winning onsite restaurant, RestaurantMuse Restaurant at Hungerford Hill. Guests in the familiar and casual “standing” Botanica, which specialises in modernenjoying the seated “Epic Experience” tasting session at the cellar door. For Australian cuisine produced by renownedtasting will be taken through the wines and more information or bookings (essential chef/owner Mark Stapleton. “Our focustheir food matches by a dedicated staff for seated tastings), visit the Hungerford is on using only the best seasonalmember in the comfort of an intimate setting Hill website at www.hungerfordhill.com.au produce, artisan processes and of course or phone (02) 4998 7666. outstanding wine,” says manager Belinda Stapleton. “Our wine selection embraces TREAT YOURSELF the region’s history and emerging talents, while offering extensive choices from BOUTIQUE Hunter Valley retreat Spicers around Australia and other great wine Vineyards Estate has undergone a regions of the world. Guests can enjoy makeover, with a purpose-built day spa either a two- or three-course a la carte and new luxury accommodation now open menu experience or a signature five- to guests. The award-winning property course menu with matched Hunter Valley recently opened Spa Anise, a day spa wines. The menu can include entrees such which offers a range of massage, beauty as roasted pumpkin from Botanica’s own and therapeutic treatments performed by garden rolled up in handmade tortellini qualified spa therapists. The spa offers two also featuring fetta from neighbouring treatment rooms, one being a twin room Binnorie Dairy, raisins, pine nuts and perfect for couples wanting to indulge in burnt butter; or duck liver pate with luxury together, and both feature natural shiraz jelly and pickles from the garden. timber flooring and private courtyards. Mains may include duck confit with broad Treatments range from an indulgent beans, kipfler potatoes, orange and aromatherapy relaxation massage to full honey gremolata; slow-roasted lamb with body treatments using Australian-made blackened eshallots, heirloom carrots and Waterlily products. Four new luxurious chestnut cream; or sticky pork belly with 50sqm spa suites have also been soy, ginger, shallots and garden greens. introduced, which have separate living and bedroom areas, each area with their Spicers Vineyards Estate is at 555 own individually controlled TV and reverse Hermitage Rd, Pokolbin; Phone 1300 192 cycle airconditioning. The lounge areas 868. www.spicersgroup.com.au. include large bluestone fireplaces and either a private courtyard or balcony. Above: Hungerford Hill's selection of four wines and tasting bites. Below: Spicers Vineyard Estate. Opposite page: Meerea Park cellar door. November/December 2013 W I N E S TAT E 95

93 TASTED70 AWARDEDHUNTER VALLEYA tight bunch of Hunter wines here represent the Gartelmann Jessica SEMILLONcream of the crop, with a high strike rate and lots to Hunter Valley Verdelho 2013 - 2012look forward to! We expect the semillons to do well 2013 HHH(and they did) from this iconic region, but the judges Simple and seamless, with 15 TASTEDwere more than satisfied with the shiraz, viognier and generous apple/pear aromas 12 AWARDEDchardonnay wines also coming out of the region. and flavours. $20 As to be expected - a solidSPARKLING De Iuliis Hunter Valley Tamburlaine Reserve class from Australia's iconic Verdelho 2012 HHHH Hunter Valley Verdelho semillon producing region.1 TASTED Medicinal and flinty on 2012 HHH \"The 2013 vintage has been1 AWARDED the nose and smelling of Smells like a fruit salad and has excellent for this variety and gooseberries, with dense, jubey fruit flavours with careful so far the best vintage of thisBimbadgen creamy fruit richness and some use of residual sugar. $30 century!\" enthused one judge.Hunter Valley Sparkling tannins. Good food wine. $18Semillon NV HHHH Two Rivers Hidden Hive Tinklers Hunter Valley Two Rivers Stones ThrowA lovely wine; creamy and stylish Hunter Valley Verdelho Viognier 2011 HHH Hunter Valley Semillonwith a fine bead. The sweet fruit 2012 HHHH Toasty green apricot nose and 2013 HHHHHhas hints of limes and some Great varietal expression to the some lovely rich and consistent Perfumed sherbety aromastoastiness, and is nicely balanced nose and full-bodied, tropical varietal flavours. $22 on quite a grapey nose. Tight,by the acidity. $16 fruit characters supported by a fresh, grassy on the palate, very good acid backbone. $16 SEMILLON with a lovely flavour profile andOTHER WHITE Two Rivers The Corner SAUVIGNON excellent length. Great cellaringVARIETALS Block Hunter Valley BLANC potential here. 5+ $16 Viognier 2013 HHH1/211 TASTED Fresh lifted aromas of spices 4 TASTED McGuigan Bin 90007 AWARDED and flowers. Nice savoury 2 AWARDED Hunter Valley Semillon influence to the palate, with 2013 HHHH1/2\"Remarkably consistent group of good upfront peach fruit. $16 Pokolbin Estate Out of A classic, well-made semillonverdelhos here,\" said one judge. McGuigan Bin 6000 the Ashes Phoenix Hunter with excellent lime/citrus-like\"These are much better than Hunter Valley Verdelho Valley Semillon Sauvignon aromas leading to lovely long,those in the past. Great drinking 2012 HHH1/2 Blanc NV HHH1/2 zesty flavours with chalkynow but will also age well.\" Also Medium-bodied dry style with Musky confectionery-like aromas phenolics and a crisp, dryingsome nice viogniers with well- lots of pineapple and tropical and full-bodied palate, with finish. $13balanced varietal character. fruit characters framed by a nice weight and persistence of good acid backbone. $12.99 herbal-like fruit. $25 Two Rivers Hunter Valley Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2012 HHH Elegant and stylish with fresh grassy semillon characters and good level of acid. $16JUDGES Peter Hall Rodney Kempe Usher Tinkler Winemaker for Chief winemaker/general Chief winemaker and McGuigan Simeon manager of Lakes Folly manager for Pooles Wines. 24 years’ winery. Former winemaker Rock Winery. Regular winemaking experience at McGuigan wines and judge at regional and with four years as a Rothbury. Has judged at national wine shows. Hunter Valley Wine the Sydney International, Show judge. NSW Wine Awards and the Hunter Valley Wine Show for the past seven years.96 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013

regional tastingSaddler's Creek Classic McGuigan Bin 9000 Tinklers School Block Pokolbin EstateHunter Valley Semillon Hunter Valley Semillon Hunter Valley Semillon Ken Bray Hunter Valley2013 HHHH 2012 HHH1/2 2007 HHHHH Semillon 2011 HHHHAn appealing, slightly perfumed Nose of toast, asparagus and \"A stylish wine showing Slight marmalade hint to thenose with classy fruit aromas green peas, with a stylish palate great pedigree,\" according toasty, citrus nose and softand a tight, but not simple, showing persistent flavours and to one judge. Has vanilla, ,generous, lemon flavours.minerally green apple palate. good phenolics. $20 toast and lemon on the nose, Shows nice \"pedigree\" and good with a perfumed lift and a depth of character. 3-5 $25 3-5 $26 Bimbadgen Signature fine, delicate palate with Hunter Valley Semillon mouthwatering flavours. $19.80James Estate 2013 HHH Drayton's Family WinesReserve Hunter Valley Lots of good quality toasty oak McGuigan Hunter Valley Heritage Wines HunterSemillon 2013 HHHH but has plenty of rich, peach Semillon 2005 HHHHH Valley Semillon 2011 HHHHClean, vibrant and spicy lemon fruit to match. $40 A perfectly made wine with a Lovely toastiness to the nosebouquet, with a touch of toast beautifully aged nose that smells and an elegant palate, with niceand similar characters on the James Estate Vitai Hunter like lime marmalade on toast, and mineral characters and showingmedium-bodied, well-balanced Valley Semillon 2013 HHH a long, lightly-structured palate, lovely light citrus overtones.palate. $23 Slightly oaky nose and minerally with lemon and lime rind-like palate, with good balance 5+ $60 between acid and sugar. $16The Wine Society flavour profile. 3-5 $30 Bimbadgen SignatureTyrrell's Reserve Selection Tamburlaine Reserve Palmers Lane Hunter ValleyHunter Valley Semillon Hunter Valley Semillon Semillon 2010 HHHH2012 HHHH 2012 HHH A pungent bouquet withA peachy nose with a nice Subtle peach fragrances and hints of vanilla and spice.spicy element and a bright, well-balanced, minerally palate Wonderfully silky palate, withpersistent, pineapple/peach with long, lingering flavours. $30 great toasty, honeyed semillonpalate - well-structured with characters. $40good level of acidity. $10.99 SEMILLON 2011 & OLDER RidgeView GenerationsDe Iuliis Hunter Valley Reserve Hunter ValleySemillon 2013 HHH1/2 12 TASTED Semillon 2009 HHHHBone dry and stylish style of 12 AWARDED Clean and fresh with esterysemillon, with lovely grassy and fragrances showing a touchslightly floral fruit with a long, Superb class! Great \"pedigree\" of toastiness and more of thelingering finish. 5+ $18 and varietal character here same on the palate with a from these world-class whites. drying finish. $30Bimbadgen Estate These are also great wines toHunter Valley Semillon put away as evidenced by the Robyn Drayton Wines Gartelmann Benjamin2013 HHH1/2 results from the older vintages. Reginald Reserve Semillon Hunter Valley SemillonMinerally peachy aromas with 2010 HHHH1/2 2010 HHH1/2slight floral lift and a simple, McGuigan No 6101 Lovely concentration of bottle Powerful citronella-like aromasslatey, fresh and long palate. The Shortlist Hunter Valley aged characters on the lime and medium-bodied palate,Good cellaring potential. Semillon 2007 HHHHH marmalade nose. Lovely creamy with good balance between the A truly lovely wine showing all texture to the palate, with great fruit and the acid. $30 5+ $22 the attributes of a beautifully persistence of toasty citrus aged Hunter semillon, with flavours. A lovely drink. $30Lindemans Bin 1355 toast and lanolin characters, Bimbadgen SignatureHunter Valley Semillon citrus elegance and a very good Hunter Valley Semillon2013 HHH1/2 level of zingy acidity. Great 2011 HHHA classic, lighter style of structure. $28.99 Well-made, medium-weightsemillon, with nice varietal fruit semillon. Nicely balanced,richness supported by zesty, toasty lemon aromas andlemon-like acidity. 3-5 $30 flavours. $40 Subscribe to go to www.winestate.com.au November/December 2013 W I N E S TAT E 97

HUNTER VALLEYRidgeView Generations The Wine Society RidgeView Hunter Valley Audrey WilkinsonReserve Hunter Valley Easy Drinking Selection Chardonnay 2012 HHH1/2 Hunter Valley TempranilloSemillon 2011 HHH Hunter Valley Chardonnay A beautiful, stylish chardonnay 2011 HHHHSmells of ripe pineapples and 2012 HHHH with a seamless balance Lovely bright, plum fruit nosehas a lovely generosity of Perfumed oaky bouquet between lifted vanillin oak and with pepper and spice. Goodcreamy flavours. $45 showing generous weight and ripe stonefruit characters. $20 expression of sweet varietal persistence of sweet tropical fruit on well-balanced palate.Drayton's Family Wines fruit flavours on the long, Bimbadgen Estate Nice use of oak. $20Vineyard Reserve Hunter balanced palate. $10.99 Hunter Valley ChardonnayValley Semillon 2010 HHH Two Rivers Reserve 2012 HHH1/2 James Estate The EstateObvious Hunter semillon Hunter Valley Chardonnay A fruit-driven nose with hints of Hunter Valley Cabernetcharacters of fresh lime juice, 2012 HHHH rolled oat characters. Crisp in Sauvignon 2011 HHHHtoast and vanillin oak. $30 Powerful oak influence to the the mouth, with fresh citrus and Powerful Ribena-like bouquet funky nose and zesty white stonefruit flavours. 3-5 $24 and full-bodied, chocolatyCHARDONNAY peach and pear-like flavours palate, spiked with mulberries under the layers of oak. Lindemans Bin 1281 and blackcurrants, soft oak and18 TASTED Traditional style. $24 Hunter Valley Chardonnay fine tannins. $1615 AWARDED 2012 HHH1/2 A soft, fruit-driven style with Drayton's FamilyVery solid class! The judges McGuigan Bin 7000 creamy richness, subtle oak Wines Heritage Vinescommented on the cool-climate Hunter Valley Chardonnay and complex secondary Hunter Valley Cabernetstyles of the 2012 vintage where 2011 HHHH flavours developing. $29.99 Sauvignon 2011 HHHHsome late picked styles were A complex, well-worked malo An excellent wine with ansuperb, while early picked wines style - very Burgundian with Tyrrell's Wines Moon intense concentration oftended to be lean, green styles. lovely depth of interesting and Mountain Hunter Valley blackberry aromas and rich,The few 2011s from a good complex flavours matched by Chardonnay 2011 HHH1/2 mouthfilling, blackberry palatevintage also performed well. loads of oak. $12.99 A leaner style that's slightly with drying tannins. $60 dominated by the oak, but it'sTwo Rivers Lightening RidgeView Impressions a nicely made wine with good Tinklers Hunter ValleyStrike Hunter Valley Hunter Valley Chardonnay minerally acidity. 3-5 $20 Shiraz ViognierChardonnay 2012 HHHH1/2 2011 HHHH 2011 HHH1/2Smells of lime juice with some A lighter style of semillon Saddler's Creek Reserve Rich, round, soft and chocolatysubtle oak characters. Has a showing lovely structure and Hunter Valley Chardonnay style, with some pepper, vanillagenerous fresh peach fruit and balance. Smells of vanilla beans 2012 HHH and red currants nicely framedsweet vanilla oak palate with and toast, and tastes of stone A good food wine, with rustic by silky tannins. $25everything in perfect balance. fruits. $25 toasty oak and ripe, lifted,Very stylish wine. $16 peach fruit. $36 Tinklers PMR Hunter Saddler's Creek Valley Merlot 2011 HHH1/2Tinklers Poppys Hunter Valley Chardonnay Horseshoe Vineyard Medium-bodied, purple wineHunter Valley Chardonnay 2012 HHH1/2 Premium Reserve with rich sweet fruit, some2011 HHHH1/2 A slatey, minerally style of Hunter Valley powerful oak, prominentHighly complex aromas with a chardonnay showing clean fruit Chardonnay 2012 HHH tannins and long acid spine.touch of meatiness and some aromas and lovely stone fruit A complex and interestingperfumed notes. The generous flavours. 3-5 $26 Burgundy style of chardonnay - 5+ $25palate has a creamy mouthfeel, soft, rounded and complex. $N/Alots of oak and good persistence The Wine Society Tyrrell's SHIRAZof fruit to match. $25 Selection Hunter Valley Tamburlaine Reserve Chardonnay 2012 HHH1/2 Hunter Valley Chardonnay 20 TASTED Bees wax and toast on the 2011 HHH 15 AWARDED fresh nose; lifted and light with Aromas on the floral side of the almost floral-like peach flavours spectrum. A well-made, slightly A very strong class of lovely and no obvious oak. $26.99 angular palate. Needs time. intensely coloured, mid-weight, fruit-driven wines. The judges 3-5 $26.99 liked the balance between the oak and fruit compared with STAR RATINGS  OTHER the wines of the past. RED VARIETALSThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of & BLENDS De Iuliis Hunter Valleyexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. Shiraz 2011 HHHHHAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry 11 TASTED Gorgeous purple wine with aprofessionals and are compared in peer chocolaty nose and lots of liftedclasses by three judges. 5 AWARDED fruit characters. Round and softCM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, in the mouth, with long, sweet,a major mail-order business. \"The Hunter does mid-weight peppery fruit flavours layeredCD Cellar door price. food wines well and these wines with silky tannins. Good future!CDO Cellar door only. show that,\" said one judge.SO Sold out. The best wines here showed 5+ $25$N/A Price not available at time of printing. excellent varietal expression that Contact information pg 144. put them ahead of the rest. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).For a complete list of what we tastedplease refer to www.winestate.com.au98 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013

regional tastingMcGuigan Personal Tyrrell's WinesReserve Hunter Valley Brokenback Hunter ValleyShiraz 2011 HHHHH Shiraz 2010 HHHHInky purple shiraz has intense, Slight leathery characters tochocolaty, oak aromas laced the peppery/mocha bouquetwith Ribena-like fruit and a and generous concentration ofpowerful palate that offers a plum, spice, leather and cedarbig mouthful of sweet fruit flavours. $20balanced by silky oak and finetannins. 5+ $50 David Hook Hunter Valley Shiraz 2011 HHH1/2Lindeman's Peppery cherry bouquet andBin 1105 Hunter Valley full-bodied, tarry fruit palate withShiraz 2011 HHHH1/2 fine grained tannins and well-The nose is dark and inky, handled oak. 3-5 $18and very Hunter Valley with afull-bodied, true to style palate Bimbadgen Estate Hunterloaded with blackcurrant and Valley Shiraz 2011 HHH1/2mulberry fruit, nice oak and soft An elegant, pretty, lightertannins. 5+ $29.99 style, with great structure and seamless balance of olive,RidgeView Impressions rhubarb and plum characters.Hunter ValleyShiraz 2011 HHHH1/2 3-5 $26A rich, opulent, purple wine Pokolbin Estatewith intense raspberry and Reserve Hunter Valleyblackcurrant aromas and a dash Shiraz 2011 HHH1/2of pepper. Soft in the mouth Smells of five spices andwith supple sweet fruit and black olives, and has a lovely Trophy Winnergood vanillin oak. 5+ $30 concentration of roasted beetroot and olive flavours.BimbadgenSignature Hunter Valley 3-5 $50Shiraz 2010 HHHH1/2Lovely ripe plum aromas laced Audrey Wilkinson Hunter Exporting to Germany, 17 FABULOUS WINES:with chocolate and showing a Valley Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 Singapore and China. Sparkling Whitenice peppery lift. Soft and juicy Distinct cassis-like aromas Wines sourced from Semillonin the mouth, with delicious and quite a tannic palate, with small parcels of Verdelhoand perfectly balanced sweet/sour fruit flavours. Very outstanding fruit from Chardonnaychocolaty flavours. $50 ripe for a 2010. $22 the best vineyards in the Hunter Valley, Mudgee Off Dry White BlendBimbadgen Estate Hunter Robyn Drayton Three and Rylstone areas. Cabernet BlendValley Shiraz 2011 HHHH Son's Reserve Hunter MerlotLashings of vanillin oak on Valley Shiraz 2010 HHH1/2 Shirazthe nose and very grippy Typical Hunter nose of leather andtannic palate, with great red currants. Stylish, soft, tannic Cabernet Sauvignonbalance between the oak palate with excellent balance and Petit Verdotand the fruit. $26 tasting of olives. $28 Sparkling ShirazTinklers U & I Hunter Drayton's Family Wines Dessert Wine Bin 5555 Hunter Valley Vintage PortValley Shiraz 2011 HHHH Shiraz 2011 HHHOak obvious on the nose and Savoury nose - smells spicy andit's soft in the mouth, with has intense beetroot and blacklovely dark fruit, hints of oak, olive flavours. 3-5 $20some spiciness and sweettannins. 3-5 $35 FORTIFIEDMargan Hunter ValleyShiraz 2010 HHHH 1 TASTEDA drying, slightly aggressive, 1 AWARDEDtannic shiraz. Lovely liftedraspberry aromas and intenseconcentration of chocolaty fruit Bimbadgen Estate Hunterflavours. 3-5 $22 Valley Fortified Verdelho NV (375ml) HHHHH Lovely bouquet - smells of Cellar Door in Lovedale – open 7 days almond toffee. The opulent 701 Lovedale Road, Lovedale NSW 2320 palate is a beautiful balance p:+61 2 4930 7113 e: [email protected] between sweet raisined fruit, cold tea and some marzipan- www.gartelmann.com.au like characters. Good for at least the next 10 years! $27 November/December 2013 W I N E S TAT E 99

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINNORTH EAST VICTORIAFOLLOW THE TRAIL operators service North-East Victoria’s wine which they call a Cremant. “It is Rail Trail network, providing transfers and the term the French use for a sparklingTHE Tuileries complex in Rutherglen is itineraries to suit each group’s cycling wine made outside the Champagnethe perfect base from which to explore the interest. New operators, Riding High Cycling area - I don’t know why we don’t usewineries of North-East Victoria, and more Tours, based in Tarrawingee, facilitate tours it more often,” said Michael Reid. Theyparticularly the local Rutherglen Muscat Trail. along the Murray to Mountains Rail Trail, with have also released a more affordableTuileries, which includes accommodation stops in culinary villages such as Bright, wine - their Glenrowan Kelly Red, “aand an upmarket restaurant, is located in Beechworth, Milawa and Rutherglen. Riding blend of cabernet, shiraz and merlotthe historic Jolimont Cellars, next door to High also offers a special tour on the High that provides a boutique, hand-craftedthe Rutherglen Estates cellar door and just Country Rail Trail hugging the shoreline of wine at supermarket prices”. The jewela short stroll to the restaurants and cafes the majestic Lake Hume in the region’s north. in the Auldstone crown is the release of aof downtown Rutherglen. The restaurant, Day tours are priced from $150 per person special Grand Muscat, containing fruit thatoverlooking an attractive courtyard, serves and multi-day tours from $660 per person has been ageing since they started thecontemporary Australian food. Think dishes (self-guided but including accommodation, business. Auldstone Cellars was originallylike rabbit rillettes or Asian-style pork belly bike hire, transfers and some meals). The built in 1891 by Robert Cox, who madewith rice cakes. Service is attentive and 45km Golden Gourmet day tour starts in wine there until he died in 1909. It wasinformative, and there is a good selection of Beechworth and includes lunch in historic then taken over by Baileys and sold to thelocal wines. For lighter meals, try Le Cafe. Ladson’s Store in Tarrawingee, stops at the Reids in 1987. They have since renovatedThe boutique accommodation, where owner Milawa Cheese Factory, Milawa Mustards, the old cellars and replanted about 20haTony Lamb is the host, features luxury units EV Olives and Snow Road Produce before of vines and at weekends the on-site cafeoverlookinga 2.5ha vineyard and olive grove. a final leg from Milawa along the Rail Trail serves dishes like Mediterranean lambRooms have king beds, airconditioning, to Sam Miranda Winery in Oxley, where a salad; a feta, artichoke and caramelisedmini bars, direct-dial phones, TV and video, tasting plate featuring the chef’s selection of onion tart or a Winetaster’s Platter, amicrowaves, tea and coffee-making facilities, some house favourites accompanies a glass selection of cheeses, home-made pate,and are brightly furnished. Some include of still wine or prosecco. Riding High; phone pickles and preserves served with a sidein-room spas and guests are invited to use (03) 5725 1343. www.ridinghigh.com.au. salad and crusty home-made bread. All ofthe heated swimming pool and tennis court. the dishes cost $20. Auldstone Cellars is CELEBRATE A MILESTONE at 296 Booth Rd, Taminick via Glenrowan. Tuileries is at 13-35 Drummond St, The tasting facility is open Thursday-Rutherglen; phone (02) 6032 9033. IT IS a special year for Michael and Nancy Sunday 9am-5pm and throughout allwww.tuileriesrutherglen.com.au. Reid at Auldstone Cellars, Taminick, part school holidays; phone (03) 5766 2237. of the Glenrowan wine region. The couple www.auldstone.com.au.SADDLE UP has just celebrated its 25th vintage. Pop into the Auldstone cellar door to SLOW DOWN ANDTHERE are few better ways to explore a wine sample some wines released to mark the ENJOY RUTHERGLEN’Sregion than on a bicycle - and Victoria’s milestone, including a premium sparkling HOSPITALITYHigh Country has a range of new cyclingtour packages to help visitors explore more RUTHERGLEN may only be a small countrythan 250km of safe cycling routes on the town, but it is known throughout Australia asoff-road Rail Trail network and quiet country a place with a great spirit, and as home tolanes. The High Country offers the ultimate some of the world’s great wines. Whethercycling holiday, with three unique legs of eating yabbies with a sparkling shiraz on thethe Rail Trail network boasting views to banks of the Murray, or curling up in frontthe mountains as they meander through of a fire with a Grand Rutherglen Muscat,fertile valleys of vineyards, hops, orchards visitors are encouraged to slow down andand groves, and past villages such as chill out. The region’s favourite food andMansfield, Milawa, Beechworth, Rutherglen, wine Festival - Tastes of Rutherglen - isBright, Myrtleford and Tallangatta. It’s easy held each March and around 20 wineriesto pedal into cellar doors and farm gates, open their cellar doors, pairing with arestaurants and quirky cafes, or to pause top chef to showcase the region’s foodfor a gourmet picnic of regional producecollected along the way. Three local tour100 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2013