Winestate Magazine November December 2010

varietal tastingGreyrock Wild Rock Preveli Margaret Mud House CentralHawke’s Bay Pinot Strugglers Flat River Pinot Noir Otago Pinot NoirNoir 2009 HHHH Martinborough Pinot 2008 HHH 2009 HHHHHWell-made, savoury Noir 2009 HHH1/2 Developed, savoury Floral fragrances with astyle of pinot with black Concentration of style with caramel-like perfumed lift. Beautifullycherries on the nose and berries, spice and mint maturity and plenty of soft and fleshy in thepretty pinot fruit filling on the nose, and good acidity. $24.95 mouth, with a seamlessthe palate. Nice structure persistence of delicate balance between fruitand tannin length. $20 fruit flavours with fine Alta Adelaide Hills and oak. “Lovely and lightMatua Valley Estate tannins. $24.95 Pinot Noir 2007 HHH on its feet,” commentedMalborough Pinot Smells earthy with a one judge. $28Noir 2009 HHHH Yealands Way caramel edge. Nicely“An authentic pinot,” Central Otago Pinot structured spicy/ Akarua Rua Centraldeclared one judge. Noir 2008 HHH1/2 chocolaty palate with a Otago Pinot NoirGenerous varietal Interesting wine, a touch drying finish. $21.95 2009 HHHH1/2fruit on the nose and dry, with aniseed-like Still a very young winecomplex, sappy flavours characters on the nose PINOT NOIR that needs time tomeandering across the and rich gamey/berry 2009 develop. Lovely colour.lovely palate. $20.99 flavours. $21.50 $25 - $30 Fresh berries and sour Phaedrus cherries on the nose, Mornington 25 TASTED with nice follow-through Tohu Marlborough Peninsula Pinot Noir 17 AWARDED to the palate and Pinot Noir 2009 HHH balanced by oak. $25 2009 HHHH1/2 Big colour and big “Here’s where we start,” Gladstone Vineyard Very pretty nose - flavours with alluring declared one judge. A 12,000 Miles New smells of toffee apples sweet fruit. A little strong class with some Zealand Pinot Noir and berries with a overblown but with a lovely wines offering good 2009 HHHH1/2 hint of savoury oak. clean acid finish. $24 value overall. There are Warm, complex, red Palate shows good Yering Station Little two styles - the bigger, cherry and blackcurrant winemaking. It’s long, Yering Yarra Valley weighty versions and the aromas with oak in fleshy and savoury, Pinot Noir 2008 HHH more classic, aromatic, balance. Excellent palate with cherry and cashew Earthy/spicy style with mid-weight ones. - long and silky, with the characters. $25.95 hints of cherries on fruit and oak in a lovely Robert OatleySomerbury Estate the nose and a simple, balanced harmony. High MorningtonJr Jones Mornington berry-driven palate. $20 acid. $25 Peninsula Pinot NoirPeninsula Pinot Noir Wolf Blass Gold 2009 HHHH2009 HHHH Label Limestone Wild berry bouquetEarthy, varietal nose Coast Pinot Noir with a slight greenwith a slight minty lift, 2008 HHH edge, and a savoury,and a richly flavoured Mixture of sweet and well-structured palatepalate of cherries and savoury/barnyardy with blood plum andspice with some silky characters. Big, bold and ripe berry flavours andtannins. 3-5 $20 hot but not particularly velvety tannins. $29.99 varietal. $24.99Saint Clair Moorilla Praxis SeriesFamily Estate Tasmania Pinot NoirMarlborough Pinot 2009 HHHHHNoir 2009 HHHH Medicinal/mintyInteresting, well-made, characters on the nose,cool-climate style with with a vibrant dark berryobvious white peppercharacters minglingwith fruit showing somestalky elements. Goodoak handling. $24.95 background. Powerful palate rich with sweet morello cherry fruit and excellent oak balance. Will get even better with time. 3-5 $28 November/December 2010 W I N E S TAT E 101

PINOT NOIRTerrace Heights Culley Wines PINOT NOIR GreenhoughEstate T.H.E. Marlborough Pinot 2008 & OLDER Nelson Pinot NoirMarlborough Pinot Noir 2009 HHH $25 - $30 2008 HHHHHNoir 2009 HHHH Strawberry jam nose Rich and alluring styleHuge red colour. Smells and supple, fleshy, 31 TASTED with spicy/cherrylike Turkish delight with balanced, savoury palate 24 AWARDED aromas showing a slighta dash of pepper. Big with greenish tannins. Another solid class, with green stalkiness, leadingjubey fruit on a palate Needs time. $25 the Kiwis leading the onto a beautiful, silky-that’s ripe but not over way. Very consistent smooth palate that’s richthe top. Has a good Grampians Estate across the board at a fair and sweet with a fleshyfuture. $28.95 Pollyanna’s price for this variety. mouthfeel. $28 Grampians Pinot VavasourGrower’s Mark Gary Noir 2009 HHH Riverby Estate Awatere ValleyNeal Ballochdale Big, dry wine with Marlborough Pinot Marlborough PinotMarlborough Pinot jammy plum and cassis Noir 2008 HHHHH Noir 2008 HHHH1/2Noir 2009 HHH1/2 bouquet and a sweet/ Great funky nose with Vibrant cherry red colourRich, powerful style sour palate with a herbal a sprinkling of Oriental and dark berry bouquetwith huge colour and edge. $25 spices. Soft and fleshy layered with nutty oak.smelling spicy and in the mouth, with Supple, fleshy palate withminty. Pretty fruit on the Hunky Dory seamless, velvety bright, fresh varietal fruit Gibbston Highgatepalate, with good acid/ Marlborough Pinot balance between the ripe flavours with nice spicy Estate Soultakeroak balance. $25.90 Noir 2009 HHH cherry fruit, oak and spicy lift - lovely wine. $28 Central Otago PinotGrower’s Mark Plum bouquet with a elements. Described as a Noir 2008 HHHH1/2Donna Anderson rhubarb lift. Lingering, ‘peacock’! $27 Berries, black fruit andMarlborough Pinot drying sweet fruit/ spicy oak mingle onNoir 2009 HHH1/2 peppery palate. Has the nose and are liftedSpices and rhubarb potential. $25 by a minty character.obvious on the nose, Lively palate with greatand a sweet juicy pinot Riverby Estate concentration of fruitpalate with lots of spice Marlborough Pinot flavours. Great future.and pepper. Interesting Noir 2009 HHHwine. $25.90 Light-bodied, vibrant 3-5 $29.95Vavasour style, quite Burgundian- Tohu MarlboroughAwatere Valley like with its funky, Pinot NoirMarlborough Pinot meaty and strawberry 2008 HHHHNoir 2009 HHH1/2 characters. $27 Smells like sour cherriesPerfumed, peppery with herbal smokybouquet and wonderful Griffin Adelaide notes. Simple, light,flavours on a well- Hills Pinot Noir juicy palate with savouryintegrated, nicely textured 2009 HHH sweet oak and layerspalate. “Easy to like.” $28 Big, blockbuster style of fruit. Good flavourTim Knappstein with bright blackberry length. $25.95Riposte The Sabre fruit and some very McWilliam’sAdelaide Hills Pinot classy oak. Lillydale EstateNoir 2009 HHH1/2 3-5 $29 Yarra Valley PinotHuge chocolaty oak Noir 2008 HHHHlift to the nose; some Yealands Estate Excellent varietalRibena notes. Sweet Awatere Valley nose and beautifullyand spicy in the mouth, Marlborough Pinot structured palate withwith a touch of earth. Noir 2009 HHH sweet fruit, chewyNeeds time. $29 Meaty nose threaded chocolaty oak and with bright berries. velvety tannins. Nice Sour cherry palate with wine. $26.99 varietal spice. Needs time. $29.50DAY 1 - JUDGESAdriano Marchioro Rob Dolan Robert PaulWinery manager at Known as “Sticks”, Proprietor of VintagerWitchmount Wines and Rob Dolan has been a Winemaking Services.cellarmaster for MoMo winemaker for 20 years, Formerly, seniorrestaurant in Melbourne. in the Coonawarra, consultant for WineSommelier at Flemington Hunter and Yarra Valleys. Network Australia. WasRacecourse. Associate He is general manager the chief winemaker forjudge at Ballarat and the of Sticks Yarra Valley and Montrose/CraigmoorVictorian Wine Show. Has Brand New Vintage Ltd. Mudgee for 11 years andcompleted nine vintages in Regular judge at Victorian also worked for WyndhamGeelong, Great Western, wine shows. Estate, Chapel Hill, CorioleGippsland and Sunbury. and Amberton.102 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2010

varietal tasting Astrolabe Voyage Grampian’s Estate Sweetland Marlborough Pinot Pollyanna’s Bannockburn Pinot Noir 2008 HHHH Grampians Pinot Noir 2008 HHH Smoky oak mingles with Noir 2008 HHH Meaty/minty nose, and ripe plum and berry fruit. Good example of style, nice pinot sappiness Chocolaty element to with a choc mint-like to a soft and luscious the nose and a ripe and bouquet and big, palate. $29.90 luxurious palate with powerful, sweet, wild drying tannins. $29.99 berry palate. $25 Lime Rock Central Lime Rock Central Hawke’s Bay Pinot Lawson’s Dry Hills Hawke’s Bay Pinot Noir 2007 HHH Marlborough Pinot Noir 2008 HHH Big, intense style with Noir 2008 HHH1/2 Spicy nose - quite good concentration of Stalky plum nose with aniseed-like - and great bright, fleshy flavours a lift of spice, and complexity to the fleshy, with a hot alcohol soft, sweet fruit palate savoury palate. $28.50 finish. $27.50 bordering on savoury, Hunter’s with good texture and Marlborough Pinot Catalina Sounds balance. $27 Noir 2008 HHH New Zealand Pinot Big oak impact to Noir 2007 HHHNazaaray Goldwater Wines the nose and oaky Developing, subdued SomerburyMornington Marlborough Pinot sweetness on the palate. fruit nose and big, fat, Estates JonesPeninsula Pinot Noir Noir 2008 HHH1/2 Some cherry fruit in the maturing, oak-driven Road Mornington2008 HHHH Ripe and generous wine background. $28.95 palate. Needs more time Peninsula Pinot NoirRefined style with a with hints of aniseed Balgowine Estate to shine. $28 2009 HHHH1/2savoury/earthy/berry aromas and nice Yarra Valley Pinot Deep-red wine withbouquet and a chewy balance of sweet fruit Noir 2008 HHH PINOT NOIR a vibrant savoury oakpalate bright with spicy flavours with good level Good mainstream style, 2009 bouquet, followed bysweet fruit flavours and of acid. $28 with a jammy-sweet $30 - $35 a bright, fleshy palatequite a drying finish. $28 aromas and sweet showing real depth ofWaipara Hills Yering Station Yarra cherry/prune flavours. 25 TASTED cherry fruit flavoursSouthern Cross Valley Pinot Noir Dry finish. $29 14 AWARDED edged with sweet/sourSelection Central 2008 HHH1/2 Nanny Goat elements. Will grow into aOtago Pinot Noir Light, soft, fruity Vineyard Central Solid group but a tougher lovely wine with time. $302008 HHHH style with excellent Otago Pinot Noir class with more age-Described by one judge earthy/mushroom-like 2008 HHH worthy wines which mayas a “savoury, mellow, characters and good level Soft, fleshy style with a need another year orrich and concentrated of savoury tannins. $28 toasty/meaty nose and two to settle. “A bit of atomato sauce style”. savoury oak balancing no-man’s land in termsSolid wine in the spicy Seresin Momo the fruit flavours. $29 of price,” said one judge, Wignalls Familyplum spectrum. $29.90 Marlborough Pinot Barringwood Park “below the premiums Estate AlbanyBabich Winemakers’ Noir 2008 HHH Forest Raven but still enough to cause Western AustraliaReserve Marlborough Fleshy, flavoursome Tasmania Pinot Noir a twinge to the pocket.” Pinot NoirPinot Noir wine with savoury fruit, 2008 HHH 2009 HHHH2008 HHHH spicy oak and some Jubey confectionery fruit Cooked, ripe cherry andCherries, cassis fruit and alcohol heat. $28 nose with underlying strawberry nose andtoasty oak on the nose, oak. Simple, velvety soft, rounded, palate;and a lovely layered, Drylands Wines palate with clean, fresh fleshy in the mouth withsweet and sour palate Marlborough Pinot fruit. $29.50 nice oak integration. Hotshowing a solid tannin Noir 2008 HHH on the finish. Needsstructure. $29.95 Bright berry nose with time. subtle oak notes. Palate 3-5 $32 has a good acid bite with plenty of fleshy sweet fruit. 3-5 $25Michael Kyberd Martin Williams MW DAY 2 - JUDGESSenior winemaker at Master of Wine,Peninsula winemakers, winemaking consultant Tod Dextera producer of Red Hill and pinotphile. Owner/winemaker, DexterEstate, Tucks Ridge and Winemaker for Wines. Formerly groupa member of others Caledonia Australis winemaker for Yabby Lakein the Mornington and Metier Wines. Heathcote Estate Wines,Peninsula. Has judged Has judged at all major and Stonier Morningtonat Rutherglen and capital city wine shows Winery. Has judged atCanberra wine shows. and some regional ones. Adelaide, Stanthorpe and Mornington wine shows. November/December 2010 W I N E S TAT E 103

PINOT NOIRLogan Orange Pinot Mad Fish Gold Southern Eclipse Outlook Hill Yarravale ReserveNoir 2009 HHHH Turtle Western Central Otago Pinot Vineyard Gold Hill Yarra Valley PinotLifted cherry and Australia Pinot Noir Noir 2008 HHH1/2 Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2006 HHHstrawberry aromas with 2009 HHH Some strawberries Noir 2008 HHH Nose of strawberries,savoury overtones. Nice Sweet, leathery fruit nose and raspberries on the Complex combination tar and vanilla. Palatefleshy varietal palate with and lovely tight, fresh nose. Generous, supple of plum/strawberry has nice tarry/jammylots of currant/coffee palate with good varietal palate with nice berry aromas. Dark and earthy flavours. $34flavour depth. $30 flavours. Quite dry. $30 fruit flavours and ripe on the palate; goodSaint Clair Family tannins. $30 tannin structure. $30 PINOT NOIREstate Pioneer Tomich Hill Adelaide wightwick Ballarat 2009Block 5 Bull Block Hills Pinot Noir Kilbowie Pinot Noir 2007 HHH $35 - $40Marlborough Pinot 2009 HHH Oyster Cove Complexity ofNoir 2009 HHHH Smells like ripe currants Tasmania Pinot Noir strawberry and orange 17 TASTEDStalky blackberry and tastes of sweet 2008 HHH1/2 peel aromas. Gentle 8 AWARDEDbouquet with a smoky berries. Soft and gentle Different style with palate in the traditional A few wines herenote. Lovely palate full in the mouth, with a hot ‘funky’ nose and big, Burgundian style. $30 delivered what pinotof spicy cherry/plum fruit ending. $30 chocolaty palate with Wild Earth Deep should, showingand balanced by nice lots of ‘timbery’ oak, Cove Central Otago brightness of fruit,savoury oak. Still tight; Saint Clair Family cherry fruit and chewy Pinot Noir 2008 HHH while others wereneeds time. $32.95 Estate Pioneer tannins. $33 Red cherry nose with just ‘dreaming’!Bald Hills 3 Acres Block14 Doctor’s Gibbston Valley a leesy character. SoftBannockburn Creek Marlborough Gold River Central entry to the palate and Craggy Range TeCentral Otago Pinot Pinot Noir 2009 HHH Otago Pinot Noir loads of red cherries and Muna Road VineyardNoir 2009 HHH1/2 Sour cherry nose with 2008 HHH1/2 berries. $30 Marlborough Pinot“Give it the time and it good level of spicy Pure raspberry bouquet Delta Hatters Hill Noir 2009 HHHH1/2is a potential gold medal characters and distinct with floral touches, and a Marlborough Pinot Powerful, brooding oakprospect,” suggested white pepper on the pretty, wild berry palate Noir 2008 HHH aromas mingle with lovelyone judge. Gamey style fruity palate. $32.95 with nice line of fine, Powerful black cherry dark, wild berry elements.backed by sweet fruit. $30 drying tannins. $32.99 fruit on the nose, and Fleshy palate with velvetyJosef Chromy Saint Clair family Sugarloaf Ridge solid, complex palate mouthfeel and full of juicyTasmania Pinot Noir Estate Pioneer Tasmania Pinot Noir with sophisticated range sweet fruit layered with2009 HHH1/2 Block 12 Lone Gum 2006 HHH1/2 of flavours. $32 oak. $39.95Attractive nose of musk, Marlborough Pinot Very enticing nose - Seaforth Estatecherries and nutty oak Noir 2009 HHH complex and gamey Morningtonand quite a soft and Spicy/smoky bouquet - followed by a sweet Peninsula Pinot Noirsimple palate that’s still and tight, crisp palate varietal fruit palate that 2008 HHHtoo young - needs time. with a big oak lift and has a fine, silky, tannic Plum and oak on the some stalkiness. Good finish $33 nose, and a viscous entry 3-5 $30 wine. 3-5 $32.95 Nintingbool Ballarat to a palate which hasCrittenden Estate Pinot Noir 2008 HHH waves of fruit. A touchMornington Mt Beautiful Cheviot Interesting aromatic warm. $32Peninsula Pinot Noir Hills New Zealand fruit nose and Wither Hills2009 HHH1/2 Pinot Noir 2009 HHH pleasant, flowing, red Marlborough PinotPretty, aromatic Pretty wine with a cherry/ fruit palate with some Noir 2008 HHHfragrances which are oak nose and a silky, nutty notes. $30 Nice even wine with ripe,echoed on the palate. blossom-like palate with perfumed fruit, lovelyStill green and lacking good oak balance. $34.90 fine tannins and fruitintensity but will drop-like acidity. $34.95improve with time. $34 PINOT NOIR Sugarloaf RidgeColdstream Hills 2008 & OLDER Tasmania Pinot NoirPinot Noir $30 - $35 2007 HHH2009 HHH1/2 Nice earthy bouquetConcentrated red and 30 TASTED with minty note. Fruitblack berry aromas with a dominates palate.spicy/menthol lift. Stylish 13 AWARDED Quite hot, with a tannicpalate with good level of finish. $33ripe fruit and supportive The judges wereoak. 3-5 $34.99 disappointed. ManyFoxeys Hangout wines were overworkedMornington and tended to dryPeninsula Pinot Noir red styles rather than2009 HHH showing varietal fruit.Complex, savoury nose “Pinot punishes youwith spicy vanilla lift. when you overplay itGorgeously soft palate for its shortcomings,entry with nice fruit resulting in furtherflavours. $30 issues,” said one judge.104 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2010

varietal tastingBurnt Spur Tohu Rore Reserve Greystone Waipara PINOT NOIR Tollana RobinsonMartinborough Pinot Marlborough Pinot Valley Pinot Noir 2008 & OLDER Family VineyardNoir 2009 HHHH Noir 2009 HHH1/2 2009 HHH $35 - $40 MorningtonNice wine that has all Good fruit nose; some Meaty nose with lots of Peninsula Pinot Noirthe elements - just stemmy elements. clove-like elements. Dark 23 TASTED 2008 HHH1/2needs time to settle. Light-bodied palate with fruit flavours, crisp acid 7 AWARDED Lovely combination ofBright, spicy plum very good length of and fine tannins. $36 dark cherry and forestaromas and a palate flavour and some lovely Mount Riley Wines Far too many dried-out floor aromas. Smoothwith ripe fruit and dusty tannins. $35.95 Seventeen Valley wines in this group, and supple in theelegant tannins. $39 Castello di Luzzano Marlborough Pinot which was very mouth, with good fruit Umore Nero Pinot Noir 2009 HHH disappointing at this concentration. $39.95 Nero 2009 HHH1/2 Complex, perfumed price level. Some are Domain Road Big, spicy plum nose and raspberry nose and just too forward and Vineyard Central ripe berry palate with sweet palate with great others never had it! Otago Pinot Noir charry oak background length and excellent The 2008 vintage had a 2008 HHH and good tannin weight. tannin weight. $36.95 difficult hot period but to Concentration of red Give it 2-3 years. $37 Vynfields Organic justify these prices the berry fragrances and big, Matilda’s Vineyard Wine Martinborough judges expected more. bright fruit attack on the Western Australia Pinot Noir 2009 HHH clean, zesty palate. $37 Pinot Noir 2009 HHH Red fruit aromas mingle Highfield Huia Marlborough Light, lean style with with forest floor-like Marlborough Pinot Pinot Noir redcurrant and morello characters. Generous Noir 2008 HHH1/2 2008 HHH cherry fruit with a fine palate with ripe flavours. Ripe cherry/plum fruit Nose of black cherries, tannin backbone. $35 Time! $38 with an earthy character spices and toast, and and a good dash of generous fruit palate spice. Solid, fleshy entry with slightly ‘jangling’ to a palate with dry acidity. $37 tannins. $37A real wine cellar, not just a wine sellerAustralia’sBest RetailOutlet 2009*Discover the most interesting wine and spirit storein the country for everyday bargains, hard to findwines and special back vintages.EXPERT STAFF - EXCEPTIONAL SERVICEBest Australian Retail Outlet 2009, 2008, 2006, 1999, 1996*Edinburgh Hotel and Cellars, 1 - 7 High Street Mitcham, South Australia 5062Ph + 61 (0) 8 8373 2753 Fax + 61 (0) 8 8271 8904 Email: [email protected] Website: www.edinburgh.com.au*Australian Hotels AssociationTheEd_halfhoriz2.indd 1 November/December 2010 W I N E 2S4/T7/A09T3E:51:27 P1M05

PINOT NOIRImmerse Oscars Maude Central Bald Hills Single Craggy Range Valli BannockburnReserve Yarra Valley Otago Pinot Noir Vineyard Central Sluicings Vineyard Vineyard CentralPinot Noir 2008 HHH 2007 HHHH Otago Pinot Noir Bannockburn Otago Pinot NoirPlums and spices on the Strong oak influence on 2009 HHH Central Otago Pinot 2008 HHHHHnose, and fleshy palate the nose, with earthy, Good, solid wine with Noir 2009 HHH1/2 Pretty, wild berrywith firm tannins and forest floor complexity. seamless integration Great concentration of bouquet with a florallow acidity. $37 Good definition of of cherry fruit, medium red berry jelly aromas lift. Lovely gentle palate varietal fruit on a bright, acidity and firm, dry and a mid-weight palate - entry with a silky textureNepenthe Pinnacle savoury palate with an tannins. $44 some fruit, nice zesty acid along the length of theThe Good Doctor oaky end. 3-5 $42 and firm tannins. $49.95 palate and a complexityAdelaide Hills Pinot Craggy Range Otago of flavours. “A realNoir 2008 HHH Wooing Tree Central Station Vineyard Dalrymple Estate dancer,” commentedPretty red fruit with Otago Pinot Noir Waitaki Valley Pinot Pipers River one judge. $55bright, spicy characters 2008 HHH1/2 Noir 2009 HHH Tasmania Pinot Noir Margrain Homehere balanced with older Pristine cherry fruit Floral, aromatic fruit 2008 HHH1/2 Block Martinboroughoak and tight acid. $38 characters with lovely and clean vanillin oak. Subtle fruit and Pinot Noir balance of fresh vanillin Nose slightly tarry; prominent vanillin oak 2008 HHHH1/2Amisfield Central oak. Well-structured palate smooth and with slight medicinal/ Very poised wine withOtago Pinot Noir tannins and good velvety. $44.94 menthol character on ‘languid’, minty, dark2008 HHH acidity. $42 NZ both nose and palate. fruit nose and unforced,Pretty wild berry and Tattybogler Otago “Very elegant,” thought open-grained palatecloves on the nose, and Greenhough Pinot Noir 2008 HHH one judge. $49.95 exhibiting richnessa bright, crunchy and Hope Vineyard Earthy pong to the nose, and flavour and anflavoursome palate with Nelson Pinot Noir and a palate of bright Gibbston Valley abundance of finefresh acid. $39.95 2008 HHH1/2 fruit that flows evenly Central Otago Pinot tannins. $52 Rich cherry fruit and gently and has more Noir 2008 HHH1/2PINOT NOIR with slight vegetal earthy notes. $40 Big, punchy wine with$ 40 - $45 undertones, good spicy complex oak, bright sour oak, soft acid and slightly Seresin Leah cherry fruit showing19 TASTED tough tannins make for a Marlborough Pinot savoury elements, fine11 AWARDED nice wine. $44 Noir 2008 HHH tannins and cleansing Simple stewed fruit acidity. $49.99“A mixed bag,” said the characters to the nose,judges. “We are seeing and a dense, fleshy fruit Rockburn Estateflavour here with lots of palate with solid tannin Central Otago Pinotwinemaking intervention spine. $42 Noir 2009 HHHand oak handling but Light and stylish, withsomewhat lacking in Wild Earth Central up-front fruit that tends tofruit elegance.” Otago Pinot Noir be overwhelmed by the 2008 HHH toasty/vanillin oak. $46Nautilus Nice complexity here,Marlborough Pinot with subtle cherry/ Craggy RangeNoir 2008 HHHH berry fruit, some honey Calvert VineyardWell-defined berry/ and spice and very fine Bannockburnplum aromas with a tannins. $42 Central Otago Pinotmushroom-like edge. Noir 2009 HHHGenerous palate with Churton “Bit of a tadpole butrich, savoury fruit, Marlborough Pinot loads of cherry/berrymoderate acidity and Noir 2008 HHH fruit,” said one judge.smooth tannins. $42.95 Red fruit bouquet with High in alcohol and with cola overtones, and a fresh acidity. $49.95 Akarua Central mouthful of complex, Otago Pinot Noir earthy flavours with fine PINOT NOIR 2009 HHH tannins. $44 $50 - $60 Smells of blackberries and cloves and has well- PINOT NOIR 8 TASTED defined confectionery $45 - $50 6 AWARDED fruit and clean oak. $40 15 TASTED “We have finally arrived,” 5 AWARDED enthused one judge. As expected, a dramatic “The correlation step up in quality between price and reflecting a balance of quality is not necessarily fruit, oak and winemaking positive here,” noted technique. “These one judge. “Lots of fruit seemed less forced, maceration and oak showing inherently better rather than inherent fruit natural fruit and without quality,” added another. the bitter tannins.”106 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2010

varietal tastingQuealy Seventeen Akarua Reserve Paringa Estate Paringa Estate The Flinders Island WineRows Mornington Central Otago Pinot Mornington Paringa Mornington The Straits PinotPeninsula Pinot Noir Noir 2009 HHH Peninsula Pinot Noir Peninsula Pinot Noir Noir 2008 HHH2008 HHHH Concentrated Christmas 2008 HHHH 2008 HHHH Syrupy nose with slightPlush, pretty, lifted cake aromas and decent Complex nose; berry Big style with very feral/animal aromas andberry and spice nose length of cherry/plum/ fruit aromas overlaid savoury and complex dense red berry palateand mouthfilling, oak- oak flavours with supple with sweet oak. nose and rich, ripe fruit with gamey edges.driven palate but has tannins. $55 Powerful palate; flavours balanced withgenerosity of fruit to generous amount of oak and acidity and fine J. Hopstatter Crozzolmatch. Good length and PINOT NOIR varietal fruit with plenty tannins. Well-made Blauburgunderconcentration. $50 $60 + of acid and tannins. $60 wine. $90 Sudtirol Alto AdigeValli Gibbston Martinborough Toi Toi Clutha Pinot Nero 2008 HHHVineyard Central 9 TASTED Vineyard Central Otago Pinot Strawberry nose withOtago Pinot Noir 8 AWARDED Martinborough Pinot Noir 2009 HHH1/2 a spicy lift. Soft and2008 HHHH Noir 2008 HHHH Complexity of floral, light in the mouth withIntriguing red fruit Gibbston Valley Very forest floor and smoked meat and herbal simple sour cherryand blood orange-like smoked meat nose. aromas. Well-balanced, flavours. $69.80aromas and a palate Fabulous palate with slightly dry, lean palatethat’s round, supple and Reserve Central great drive, length, with a strong tannic Foxeys Hangoutsmooth, showing good Otago Pinot Noir balance and complexity. finish. $122 White Cats Vineyardconcentration of fruit 2009 HHHH1/2 “A joy to drink,” said Morningtonflavours. $55 Big, complex, New one judge. $70 Peninsula Pinot NoirRichardson Wines World pinot with good 2009 HHHCentral Otago Pinot concentration of red Big, fat, powerful,Noir 2007 HHH1/2 fruits showing a strong, oaky number with aSmells like prunes with minty lift and seamlessly background of youthful,some floral notes. Very balanced by spicy oak, fresh berry fruit andripe, alcoholic palate fresh acidity and fine, tight crisp acid.with fleshy fruit, some tannins. 3-5 $130 3-5 $60menthol characters andfresh acid. $50wine snobs — we nose best — OYSTER BAY SAUVIGNON BLANC 6 Bottle limit per customer. We reserve the right to limit sales. No trade supplied. November/December 2010 W I N E S TAT E 107

262 TASTED108 AWARDEDCHAMPAGNE & SPARKLINGA big tasting of bubblies, with the judges “murdering” those they Yalumba Dunes AUSTRALIAN/ Chardonnay Pinot NEW ZEALANDconsidered not up to standard (and there seemed to be lots of Noir NV HHH SPARKLING $15 - $20these). Those who made sparkling wine from fruit deemed not Quite toffee-like noseup to standard for their varietal wines were quickly found out, and soft, seamlessly 29 TASTED balanced, juicy/creamy 7 AWARDEDwhile those who had designated chardonnay and pinot noir fruit palate. $14.94 A number of thesespecially allocated and picked for sparkling wine produced a De Bortoli Emeri either showed muscatmuch better product. Chardonnay Pinot or sauvignon blanc Noir NV HHH characteristics, which ‘Pretty’, fresh, pastry- is not appropriate for like nose and zesty, a classic chardonnay/ flavoursome palate with pinot style. The other good varietal notes. $13 ‘aromatic’ styles were legitimate in anAUSTRALIAN AUSTRALIAN emerging market butSPARKLING SPARKLING need to be identified andUNDER $10 $10 - $15 judged separately.10 TASTED 21 TASTED The Wine Society Late Disgorged2 AWARDED 5 AWARDED Vintage Brut 2003 HHHH1/2You get what you pay for The judges didn’t think Great colour. Smells ofhere, with just a couple these wines were really honeysuckle with niceworth looking at. a step up from the yeasty notes and has a previous class. However, very attractive, creamy,Angas Brut Premium the better ones were chardonnay-dominatedCuvee NV HHH made from the classic palate with lovelyLight golden wine with sparkling varieties of yeastiness and tight greensoft and fresh lemon/ chardonnay and pinot acid backbone. $19.99apple-like aromas and noir - and it showed!flavours. Nice acid James Haselgrovebalance. $8.95 Wines Selections Brut NV HHH1/2Banrock Station Moppity Vineyards Ballast Stone Jacob’s Creek Blanc Very toasty/creamy styleSparkling Lock & Key Single Steeple Jack de Blancs NV HHH with a luminous yellowChardonnay Pinot Vineyard Hilltops Chardonnay Pinot Light floral bouquet colour and lovely rich/Noir NV HHH Chardonnay Pinot Noir NV HHH and attractive, full and sweet layers burstingSweet and flavoursome, Noir 2010 HHH Striking tangerine colour, creamy palate. It’s rich with flavour. $15with creamy Delicate toasty/ red berry aromas and and balanced. $13.99butterscotch notes white pear and apple creamy palate with lovelyand some beer-like characters. Soft in the fruit expression. $11characters. $9.50 mouth, with very good acidity. $14.99 Natalie Fryar Neville Rowe Chief sparkling winemaker Currently chief winemaker for Yalumba. Natalie’s for Sevenhill Cellars at Clare. tastes also extend to the Formerly chief winemaker bubbles of ales and lagers for Domaine Chandon, (as do many sparkling along with Stonier’s winemakers!). Regular Merricks winery. He joined sparkling wine show judge. Yarra Ridge as assistant winemaker in 1992 and St108 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2010 Hubert’s winery in 1995.

varietal tastingMansfield & AUSTRALIAN/ Morton Methode AUSTRALIAN/ Kellybrook YarraMarsh Methode NEW Traditionelle New NEW ZEALAND Valley Brut PinotTraditionelle New ZEALAND - Zealand Premium - VINTAGE Noir ChardonnayZealand Sparkling NON VINTAGE Brut NV HHH $20 - $30 2008 HHHNV HHH1/2 $20 - $30 Meringue-like characters Soft citrus nose with aLovely light, yeasty to the nose, and a rich, 23 TASTED toasty yeast edge. Fine,notes and a delicate 24 TASTED creamy palate with 11 AWARDED fresh and crisp lemontouch of honeysuckle 8 AWARDED lemon fruit. $21 palate. $25.30with a simple range of Mahana Methode Finally, some Sam Miranda Kingattractive flavours. $18 “Here we see people Traditionelle Nelson consistency in results. Valley ChardonnaySirromet 820 doing more with better Brut NV HHH While we are seeing Pinot Noir 2008 HHHAbove Vineyard fruit,” commented one Nice fleshy fruit with a some overly green Crisp, fresh style ofSelection Sparkling judge. “There is some sweet edge and good fruit wines, others are sparkling with some niceChardonnay Pinot proper yeast complexity depth of toffee, nuts and getting it right - offering spicy notes to the sweetNoir NV HHH and evolution.” However, dried yeast elements. $24 balanced fruit and fruit. $28Some nice toasty aged some are just sparklings Cassegrain acidity and some flavour Deviation Roadcharacters here. Quite a to fulfill a market need Traditional Method expression, enhanced by Adelaide Hills Brutsweet palate, loaded with rather than having a Chardonnay Pinot yeast complexity. 2008 HHHripe, creamy fruit. $17 dedicated sparkling focus. Noir NV HHH Fleshy fruit sitting in theThorn-Clarke Nose of brioche and Parri Estate Salmon green spectrum. GoodSandpiper Brut Hunter’s Miru toasty fruit. Nicely layered Brut Southern mouthfeel. Nice overallReserve Chardonnay Miru Marlborough palate with fresh and lively Fleurieu Pinot balance. $28.50Pinot Noir NV HHH Sparkling White chardonnay fruit. $25 Noir Chardonnay Seppelt FleurBig, brooding, creamy NV HHH1/2 Granite Hills Nardoo 2007 HHHH de Lys Pinot Noirstyle. Delicate tangerine Lifted, citrusy nose with Premium Macedon Fresh and lively salmon- Chardonnaycolour. Pleasant hints of seaspray and Ranges Cuvee Brut pink wine showing nice 2007 HHHstrawberry and cream struck match. Good layers NV HHH complexity and gently Soft toasty/toffeeflavours. $18 of flavours on a toasty/ Fresh, estery fruit developing fruit. Soft and bouquet and nicelyBalgownie Estate creamy palate. $22.50 bouquet. Well-structured creamy in the mouth, textured peach/melonPremium Cuvee palate with nice flavour with a long, lingering palate. $21.99Brut NV HHH Jansz Tasmania depth and definition. finish. $24 Blue PyreneesVery pretty wine with Premium Cuvee “Big future.” $25 Vintage Brutdelicate citrus aromas NV HHH1/2 Tomich Hill Reserve Preston Peak 2007 HHHand very fresh and Creamy and yeasty and Adelaide Hills Pinot Serisier Pinot Noir Toasty nose. Delicateflavoursome palate. $19 very chardonnay - a classic Chardonnay NV HHH Chardonnay fruit expression on aJacob’s Creek Aussie style. Some lively Well-made wine. Has 2005 HHHH long, soft palate withReserve Chardonnay lemon/lime notes. Still texture, depth and Attractive layers of pleasant earthiness. $24Pinot Noir 2007 HHH very young. $24.95 definition with a yeasty honey, strawberry, roses Hainault BrutHas some classical nose and long, sweet and some quince-like Bickley Valleypresence with its nicely Blue Pyrenees Luna fruit flavours. $25 notes. Soft and creamy Sparkling Pinot Noiraged, yeasty aromas Chardonnay Pinot in the mouth, with some 2007 HHHand complex, creamy Noir NV HHH mushroomy flavours. $22 Made in an old Aussiepalate. $18.49 Has elegance and loads style. Aromas of oysters of flavour, with some Wicks Estate and mushrooms and nice yeasty characters Adelaide Hills a sweet, expansive and good acid spine. $20 Chardonnay Pinot palate. $28 Noir 2008 HHH1/2 Yellowglen Perle Delicate, toasty aromas Vintage 2006 HHH and a fresh, lively palate Fresh, clean sparkler with some lovely, nicely with toasty fruit on a defined, classical fruit. delicate palate with Has elegance. $25 sweet edges. $28.99Steve Warrick Ian McKenzie JUDGESWine consultant. Formerly National wine showsales and marketing judge and former co-chief Susan Mickanmanager for the Hamilton winemaker for Southcorp, Chief sparkling winemakerWine Group. Ten years’ Seppelt and Berri Estates. for Orlando Wyndham.experience working in Over 40 years’ experience Has spent over 15 yearsMcLaren Vale, Coonawarra in the wine industry, as a winemaker withand the Adelaide Hills. Has with more than 30 years’ various companies acrossjudged at the Adelaide, participation in the show South Australia. Has alsoMcLaren Vale and Hobart judging circuit. previously been a chiefwine shows. white and red winemaker for Orlando. November/December 2010 W I N E S TAT E 109

CHAMPAGNE & SPARKLINGHardys Sir James Jansz Tasmania De Bortoli EmeriVintage Pinot Noir Premium Rosé Sparkling PinkChardonnay NV HHH Moscato NV HHH2004 HHH Earthy mushroom Crisp, pink floral/roseDelicate integration of aromas and long, petal wine with lovelyhoneysuckle, citrus and balanced, dry palate. spicy notes and okaytoasty characters with Some complexity. Good acid. $13sherbet-like acidity. $28 acid. $24.95 Braida BrachettoAUSTRALIAN/ Mount William Jorja Peter Lehmann d’Acqui Vino Dolce Leconfield SynNEW ZEALAND Alexis Sparkling Princess Barossa Frizzante NV HHH Rouge SparklingSPARKLING Pinot Rosé 2003 HHH Moscato 2009 Super-sweet raisined Shiraz NV HHH1/2ROSÉ Interesting and different (500ml) HHH fruit with lovely floral Gorgeous colour and complex style with Sweet muscat intensity balanced by powerful blackcurrant17 TASTED toasty nose and stewed bouquet and juicy appley acidity. $21.80 aromas with an7 AWARDED fruit flavours. $37 palate with developed incredible minty lift. muscat flavours. SPARKLING Masses of rich, sweetMixed group of Blue Pyrenees Pinot Excellent acid. $18 RED - NON fruit flavours. $17.50unbalanced wines Noir Cuvee Riche VINTAGE Bleasdale Langhorneranging from dry to 2002 HHH Creek Sparklingsweet - some with Complex, fruity 21 TASTED Shiraz NV HHHsulphides and others fragrances with nice 6 AWARDED Quite a developedwith green astringency - aged characters. Very nose - smells of prunes.but the better wines had sweet palate - soft in the The good wines had Attractive sweetnessbalance of fresh fruit and mouth. $24 vibrancy of fruit and and balance to the richmouthfilling mousse and tannins to match the palate. $19appropriate tannins. SWEET sweetness, but the SPARKLING judges found too manyYellowglen tired old wines here.Perle Vintage Rosé 13 TASTED2006 HHH1/2 5 AWARDED Dowie DoolePretty salmon-pink colour, Moxie Langhornelovely fine bead, yeasty/ The wines that stood Creek Sparklingbutterscotch bouquet and out had balancing acid Red NV HHHHlovely soft, mouthfilling and good freshness. Some lovely berry fruitpalate. $28.99 Some makers used expression beautifully sugar as a replacement layered with chocolaty for fruit sweetness. oak and seamlessly balanced by good levelJean Pierre Cuvee of tannins and freshRosé NV HHH acidity. $25Light and appealingsalmon-pink wine Moppity Vineyardswith some sweetness Reserve Hilltopsand a soft, creamy Sparkling Shirazmouthfeel. $7 NV HHHH Fresh fruit lift to theAngas Brut Premium nose and nice livelyRosé NV HHH palate that’s dark withSimple, attractive, fleshy fruit exhibitingtoasty/yeasty bouquet sweet edges. Quite aand light, bright and light style but has greatcrisp, fruity palate. $8.95 vibrancy. $59.95De Bortoli Rococo Grant BurgeYarra Valley Sparkling Frizzante MoscatoRosé NV HHH 2009 HHHSmoky notes to the Grapey/muscat nose andnose and very complex fresh, clean palate. Lovely,cherry palate with well-made wine. $18lemony acid finish. $22 Martini Moscato Asti NV HHH Very easy, soft and sweet style. Sherbety/spearmint nose and very sweet muscat flavours. $15110 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2010

Shingleback Black AUSTRALIAN/ varietal tastingBubbles McLaren NEW ZEALANDVale Sparkling SPARKLING McLaren Val eShiraz NV HHH $30 - $40Pleasant, sweet, richand chocolaty wine. 30 TASTEDSpice on the nose andcreamy texture to the 16 AWARDEDpalate. $22.95Grant Burge Majella Coonawarra “Now we are startingSparkling Shiraz Sparkling Shiraz to see some realCabernet NV HHH 2005 HHH1/2 quality,” said the judges.Good classic Aussie Fresh, lively wine that’s “There are a lot morestyle. Creamy texture ripe with menthol and hand-made wines ofwith leathery/spicy black blackcurrant fruit with individual styles which,fruit characters. $34 plenty of sweet oak to when it works, offer balance. Nice leathery yeast complexity inSPARKLING notes. $28 balance with the wine;RED - Driftwood Sparkling creaminess, length andVINTAGE Red 2008 HHH overall complexity.” Deep spicy nose16 TASTED with a fruit-cake and6 AWARDED shortbread-like palate. Vibrant fruit and goodMixed bag! The best had tannin balance. $15.50fruit, age and maturity butstill retained freshnessand vibrancy. A few wereover-oaked. “Bubblesaccentuate everything,”said one judge. Rocland Chocolate Mount William Box Sparkling Shiraz Macedon Blanc de 2008 HHH Blancs 2003 HHHHH Dark, musty shiraz. Big, bold, powerful wine Great depth and with very attractive age expression of sweet development creating varietal fruit with fine intense and complex tannin spine. $28 secondary flavours. As Sam Miranda one judge said, “A lot King Valley going on here but it’s all in Sparkling Shiraz balance.” Very good! $37 Durif 2008 HHHPeter Lehmann Rich and chocolaty onBlack Queen Barossa the nose, with a big,Sparkling Shiraz fleshy, tannic palate and2005 HHHH good level of spice. $35Light, elegant wine Blue Pyrenees- smells of soy and Sparkling Shirazmushrooms with a touch 2004 HHHof porty fruit characters. Verging on black, withLovely creamy palate intense smoky/meatywith juicy varietal fruit in aromas and hugethe middle. $40 blackberry jam palate. $24 November/December 2010 W I N E S TAT E 111

CHAMPAGNE & SPARKLINGDaniel Le Seppelt Salinger Grant Burge No 1 Family Estate ITALIANBrun Methode Pinot Noir Brut Blanc de Noirs Cuvee Virginie SPARKLINGTraditionelle Chardonnay NV HHH 2006 HHH1/2Marlborough Brut 2006 HHHH1/2 Good evolving fruit Classic style, quite 14 TASTEDNV HHHH1/2 Beautiful, refined and characters on the developed, with decent 5 AWARDEDComplex earthy/toasty elegant pretty green nose. Pretty palate - flavour depth and length “An interesting class ofnose with yeasty/ sparkler. Abundance of like a delicate vanilla and nice texture to the wines not trying to beVegemite nuances. Palate toasty aged chardonnay custard! $36 palate. $60 something they aren’t,”flavoursome and complex, fruit. Clean, fresh and No 1 Family Estate said one judge. “Thesewith lovely mouthfeel. balanced, with a lemony Logan Vintage Cuvee No 1 NV HHH are uncomplicated,It has the lot - fruit, acid, acid spine. $34.99 M Cuvee Orange Ageing nicely; fruity with unpretentious, clean andweight and length! $35 Chardonnay Pinot appealing passionfruit fresh wines.”Cloudy Bay Graeme Miller Wines Noir Pinot Meunier fruit and quite an angular La MontinaPelorus Sparkling Cuvee Extra Brut 2008 HHH palate. $40 FranciacortaNV HHHH1/2 2006 HHHH Strawberry fruit nose No 1 Family Estate Millesimato ItalyLovely full-flavoured Elegant, refined and and soft, creamy Reserve Cuvee No Brut 2005 HHHHstyle with toasty/yeasty somewhat reserved. palate - a touch sweet 10 NV HHH Developed, golden wineaged chardonnay fruit. Some cheesy characters - with nice varietal fruit Lots of creamy malo showing a lovely richSome canned pea-like to the nose and a fruity flavours. $35 influence obvious here. toffee-like nose followedaromas and long, soft, palate with some decent Loads of flavour on the by a big nutty/custardycreamy palate with good tight, appley acidity to Plantagenet rich, funky palate. $55 palate with great lengthmousse, weight and balance. $35 Great Southern Brut Chandon Vintage of flavour. $23structure. $32.90 Chandon Brut 2006 HHH Brut 2006 HHHStarvedog Lane NV HHH1/2 Tight, angular style with Toasty development adds CarpeneAdelaide Hills Pinot Bright yellow with delicate fruit nose and interest to the nose. Malvolti Extra DryNoir Chardonnay green hues. Toasty toasty/yeasty palate. $30 More toastiness on the Italy Prosecco2003 HHHH1/2 development on the soft, rich palate. $43.99 di ConeglianoAnother lovely refined nose. Very creamy in the Houghton Wines Yering Station NV HHH1/2style. Some funky mouth with good, rich Wisdom Pemberton Yarrabank Cuvee Crisp and fresh, with agunsmoke notes fruit flavours. $32.99 Chardonnay Pinot 2005 HHH tropical sherbet/fairy flosson the nose. Rich, Grant Burge Noir 2006 HHH Smells of canned green nose and simple but nicelypowerful palate with Brut Blanc de Blancs Funky, gunpowder- beans. Tastes biscuity, balanced confectionerydeveloped flavours NV HHH like characters on the with a thread of green palate. $21.99and balancing acidity. Has style and character nose. Good honest fruit and high acid. $40 La MontinaHas real champagne - a touch sweet and flavour profile - quite Cloudy Bay Pelorus Franciacortacharacters. $38.50 broad but very appealing powerful. $32 Sparkling 2005 HHH Argens Saten ItalySomerset Hill nonetheless. $34 Big, old-fashioned Aussie Brut NV HHHConstellation Grant Burge Whiskey Gully style with toffee/caramel Very developed toastyBlanc de Blanc Brut Pinot Noir Wines E B Brut bouquet and toasty/ aromas and flavours, with2007 HHHH1/2 Chardonnay NV HHH Reserve Granite sherbety palate. $44.90 attractive bottle age andExcellent structure and Classic developed, yeasty Belt Sparkling tight, grippy acidity. $26balance, with interesting bouquet with a mouthful Chardonnayaged chardonnay fruit - of soft, persistent, toasty 2006 HHHvery attractive, Soft and flavours. $34 Complex style with nicecreamy in the mouth, length of limey fruitwith delicious weight and flavours. Good foodlength of flavour. $39 wine. $34 Daniel Le Brun Methode Traditionelle Marlborough Blanc de Blancs 2002 HHH Big, buttery wine with lovely aged/smoky chardonnay fruit and some sharp acid. $38 AUSTRALIAN/ NEW ZEALAND SPARKLING $40 + 10 TASTED 6 AWARDED “Disappointing - at this price we expect more,” said the judges.112 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2010

varietal tastingLa Riva Dei CHAMPAGNE Champagne Veuve DiscoverFrati Italy Prosecco ROSÉ Clicquot PonsardinDi Valdobbiadene Brut Rosé NV HHHH the largest online collectionNV HHH 6 TASTED Lovely fine and focused of Champagne in Australia.Fresh and clean - bright 6 AWARDED light orange-huedand fruity. Nice apple-like Some very nice wines wine with layers of “5 Star Excellence”elements. Very simple here - at a price - strawberries andbut very appealing. $28 with great freshness cream-like fruit and Moët & Chandon combining with aged some attractive aged Grand Vintage 2003Berlucchi Cuvee 61 complexity. “It’s very characters starting toFranciacorta Storica important to buy from a develop. $99.99 An expression of an exceptional yearMethode Classico retailer who is lookingNV HHH after the bottles,” Champagne MummUp-front, developed fruit advised one judge. Cordon Rouge Brutaromas which follow Champagne Rosé NV HHHthrough onto the soft Veuve Clicquot Pleasant, toasty,and simple palate. $85 Ponsardin Vintage redcurrant nose. Sweet Rosé 2004 HHHHH and creamy in theOTHER Light salmon-pink mouth and tasting ofWORLD colour with gorgeous strawberries. $84.99SPARKLINGS fragrances reminiscent of apple pie - very Champagne Perrier11 TASTED complex. Soft and Jouet Blason Rosé2 AWARDED creamy palate with NV HHH incredible length of Developed aromas“Green fruit does not intense yet very fine - some citrus peela sparkling make,” said flavours. $139.99 elements - followed by aone judge. “Good cava big, yeasty palate. $109can be a good drink but Champagne Moetnot much on offer here. & Chandon Imperial Champagne PerrierA couple of other styles Rosé NV HHHH1/2 Jouet Belle Epoquewere corked, which Multi-layered aromas Rosé 2002 HHHmakes it difficult to with some strawberries Very developed andjudge - and just because and charry intensity. starting to look ait’s French doesn’t Soft and generous in the little tired. But somenecessarily make it good.” mouth - very toasty, with nice fruit and toffee great flavour length and characters. $299.99Henkell Trocken green apple acidity toGermany Sparkling balance. $89.95 CHAMPAGNENV HHH UNDER $100Smells of herbs andasparagus and has a well- 11 TASTEDrounded, soft, sweet and 10 AWARDEDsimple palate. $18.99 Very strong class,L. Kruger & Co Les as to be expected atMonopoles France these prices. “A niceBrut Blanc de Blancs representation of largelyNV HHH non-vintage champagnesBit of a Plain Jane but with lots of ‘pretty’has lovely bright, toasty yeast developmentfruit and green apple and complex, lingeringacidity. $24 flavours,” summed up one judge. SPECIAL While stocks last. Champagne OFFER Lanson Gold Label Brut Vintage Normally $115 1998 HHHH1/2 Complex, evolved, Have a question or need to place aged chardonnay nose an order call 1300 366 906 or visit with a dash of soy www.champagnegallery.com.au sauce followed by a very savoury/nutty palate exhibiting loads of flavour that lingers on. Very sophisticated wine. $99.99 Lic. No. 86643. November/December 2010 W I N E S TAT E 113

CHAMPAGNE & SPARKLING Champagne Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Yellow Label Brut NV HHH1/2 Developed, slightly herbal/green aromas leading to a reasonably elegant palate that tastes of strawberries. $79.99 Champagne Perrier Jouet Grand Brut NV HHH Very interesting complex, savoury aromas and a delicious, rich and creamy palate. $89.99Champagne Moet & Champagne CHAMPAGNE Champagne ChampagneChandon Imperial Delamotte Brut $100 + Moet & Chandon Mumm Cuvee R.Brut NV HHHH1/2 NV HHHH Grand Vintage Lalou 1998 HHHH1/2Refined, delicate Delicate perfumed lift 6 TASTED 2003 HHHHH Restrained yet powerful,bouquet with a touch to the citrusy nose. Soft 6 AWARDED Big, dark golden wine with an ethereal floralof Vegemite character. and buttery in the mouth, A great class! “When it’s with lovely nose that nose and gorgeous,Palate has complexity with long, lemony good it’s bloody good,” smells like smoked refined, seamlesslyand freshness, with flavours. Simple but very enthused one judge. The oysters and seaweed balanced, nutty palateexcellent weight and elegant style. $74.99 big champagne houses with honeyed bottle age with long, lingeringcreamy texture and fine Champagne Mumm don’t compromise and development. These flavours and incrediblebut powerful orange Cordon Rouge the outstanding quality characters are echoed acid. $399.99blossom flavours. $59.95 Milleseme Brut is here for all to see! on the very savoury Champagne PolChampagne 2002 HHHH palate. $104 Roger Vintage BrutTaittinger Reserve Smells of candy floss Champagne Champagne Perrier 2000 HHHH1/2Brut NV HHHH1/2 and toffee, with massive, Mumm de Cramant Jouet Belle Epoque Nicely evolved fruit/Some excellent mature mouthfilling flavours that NV HHHHH Brut 2002 HHHHH yeast characters. Lovelycharacters with creamy lean more towards stalky Beautiful soft, refined “A relatively youthful fragrant bouquet and softmalo and rich toastiness and herbal than the nose and elegant pale yellow wine in this group,” and creamy palate withlayered with fruit and suggests. $94.99 aperitif style. Toasty/ noted one judge. Very long, developed, nuttysmoky oak. Soft and Champagne nutty fragrances with full and flavoursome flavours and some lovelycreamy in the mouth, Giesler & Cie Brut some sweet pastry-like meringue, dried fruit and balancing acidity. $109.95with great length of NV HHH1/2 characters. Fine, delicate nut palate, with lemony Champagne Veuveflavours. $99 Leesy/nutty nose palate driven by lovely acid and a long, drying Clicquot PonsardinChampagne Pol and soft and delicate green apple acidity. $199 finish. “Has the makings Vintage 2002 HHH1/2Roger Brut NV HHHH in the mouth, with of a great wine.” $299.99 Big, ripe, full-flavouredQuite nutty and evolved, ‘honest’ flavours. Nice style with powerfulwith sweaty/toasty/ toastiness. “This wine charry/toasty fruitcheesy aromas and a has style.” $39.99 characters and somevery yeasty palate with Champagne strong nutty notes. $119solid flavours and green Lanson Black Labelapple-like acidity. $84.95 Brut NV HHH1/2 Big, nutty sparkling. Creamy/toasty development on the nose, and a full-flavoured palate with a drying finish. $69.99114 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2010

SCARPANTONIESTATE GROWN - FAMILY MADE

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINLIMESTONE COAST and nearby Western Victoria. It’s on the MAJELLA’S FOOD FORAY Riddoch Highway, Coonawarra, opposite Chardonnay Lodge. Phone (08) 8736 3065; FIRST it was former Rymill winemaker www.the poplarswinery.com. John Innes and his wife Melissa who moved into food by opening Fodder SMALL WITH - Food For Thought in Coonawarra BIG AMBITIONS township. Now Majella winemaker Bruce Gregory and his wife Marcia have taken RAIDIS Estate is the Limestone Coast over the Coonawarra Store and have been region’s newest cellar door - a cute little growing the food side of their business, facility on the fringes of Penola. Steven offering wine industry workers and Raidis, whose family have long been visitors tasty treats such as homemade grapegrowers, has started small but has cakes and slices, soups, curries andPOPULAR POPLAR PIES ambitions for a much larger range. “We want pasta dishes to take away. Every morning to eventually make around 10,000 cases but Marcia emails local wineries, letting themCOONAWARRA and Penola are well served we also want to maintain a relationship with know the daily specials.when it comes to eating out. The stunning our customers,” he says. “Visitors come herePipers of Penola was recently named the for wine and food - it’s not about busloads Bruce is also a keen apiarist andbest regional restaurant for 2010 at the South of people out for a booze-up.” his Coonawarra honey is available forAustralian Restaurant and Catering Awards purchase, along with Marcia’s pickledand Upstairs at Hollicks is regarded as one Steven, a former Glenelg footballer who onions, dips and other homemadeof the best winery restaurants in the country. says he knew at 15 that he wanted to be treats. The Gregorys also rent out their a winemaker, has built a massive wood- former home, Girraween House, as For a hearty but less expensive option, fired oven that will be used to roast goats bed and breakfast accommodation.Kitchen @ The Poplars winery restaurant and other delicacies during Coonawarra’s Phone (08) 8736 3220.has seasonal menus that showcase local many festivals. Regular art exhibitionsproduce - with the gourmet pies a huge are planned and tastings are available of TUMMY-LED TOURISMfavourite with locals. The pies, including the new release 2010 sauvignon blanc,Atlantic salmon and leek, kangaroo and riesling and pinot gris, along with the 2008 LIMESTONE Coast Food has launched achicken and asparagus (all $18.50) cabernet sauvignon. new food trail, website and food tourismare prepared daily and often cooked to CD to promote the epicurean delightsorder, with the lamb shank pie a perennial The cellar door, run by Steven’s partner of the region, which spans more thanbestseller. “As so many cafes serve pizza Emma Grainey, is at 147 Church St, 21,000 square kilometres across the winewe have, as a point of difference, gone for Penola, and is open Thursday to Monday regions of Coonawarra, Wrattonbully,pies instead,” says proprietor Anne Yates. from noon-6pm and on Tuesdays and Mt Gambier, Robe, Mount Benson, Wednesdays by appointment. Phone Padthaway and Bordertown. Kitchen @ The Poplars, part of the former (08) 8737 2966; www.raidis.com.au.Jamieson’s Run and Mildara Coonawarrawinery complex, is open daily from 9am-6pm. Breakfasts are served from 9am,with the winemakers’ breakfast (two eggs,grilled bacon, tomato, mushrooms, porksausage and thick-cut toast) a firm favourite.Lunch options include seasonal pies, warmtandoori chicken salad ($16.50 and thekitchen produce platter for sharing ($25). In addition to the cafe with its large openkitchen, The Poplars also sells a large rangeof regional produce, along with extensivetastings of wines plus regional olive oilsand gourmet cheeses from South Australia116 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2010

travelbriefs The Limestone Coast Real Food Trail MARY THE MAGNET governess on Old Penola Station, which(formally the Pie, Platters and Produce was long owned by the Rymill family - nowTrail Project) is described as “tummy-led THERE are probably as many visitors to prominent winemakers - and to the familytourism”, says project manager Jenni Penola because of its links with Australia’s of Alexander and Margaret Cameron, afterLing. “The aim is to encourage visitors to first saint, Mary MacKillop, as there whom a local motel is named.stay another day in the region,” she says. are arriving to taste the local cabernetThe trail features more than 100 food and and shiraz - but there is a link. Mary Visitors can tour the Mary MacKillopwine experiences including restaurants MacKillop began her teaching career as Interpretive Centre in Penola and learnand cafes; artisan food producers such about how, in 1866, Mary, an outstandingas Beckonbees and Humbugz Honey; young teacher, and Julian Tenisoncellar doors including Cape Jaffa Woods, a priest and brilliant scientist,Wines and Bowen Estate; retail shops founded the Sisters of St Joseph, whosuch as Robe Bakery; farm gate sales provided a free Catholic education,at Aitken's Cherries and Coorong Wild initially for the isolated bush children ofSeafood and culinary food activities Penola, and created a curriculum latersuch as Joanne's Espresso Express. used nationwide. The centre is in PortlandSee www.limestonecoastfood.com.au. St, Penola, and open daily from 10am- 4pm. Phone (08) 8737 2092.JOIN THE CLUB Another huge regional drawcard is theTHE TERRA Rossa Wine Club has Blue Lake in Mt Gambier, a dormantbecome a popular addition to the Penola volcano in which the water slowly beginslandscape, offering a selection of wines to turn a brilliant cobalt blue in November.from some of the smaller producers of the The Blue Lake Welcome Centre offersLimestone Coast and enticing tapas-style information about the history of the lake,dishes. Part-owner Stephen Moignard the scientific and cultural theories aboutalso owns the Hundred of Comaum label its colour change, and its significanceand his wines are available for tasting, to the surrounding volcanic plains.along with those of small producers like Visitors can ride a glass-sided elevatorWood Block and Kopparossa. The food to the lake’s edge. Phone 1800 087 087;is Spanish-themed and ranges from fried www.thelimestonecoast.com.whitebait with lemon and aioli to chorizo,pork and beef balls in red wine sauce. Above: Blue Lake outlook platform inOpen daily, the club is housed in an old Mt Gambier. © SATC.lavender shop at 48 Church St, Penola. Centre: Fodder’s restaurant.Phone (08) 8737 3350. Below: Fodder’s wall of wine from local producers. Opposite page. Left: Kitchen @ The Poplars. Right: Bowen Estate winery. November/December 2010 W I N E S TAT E 117

131 TASTED121 AWARDEDLIMESTONE COASTAn amazing strike rate here from our judges of wines Wangolina Stationfrom one of Australia’s finest cabernet producing Mt Benson Limestoneregions. Before we say that the judges were “soft”, Coast Sauvignon Blancconsider that Coonawarra largely avoided the heat that 2010 HHHHaffected other regions in 2008, and is clearly enjoying Pristine, clean wine withsome outstanding fruit from the 2009 and 2010 delicate, lifted varietal aromasvintages. Taste the wines and see if you agree. and some nice rich, ripe fruit salad flavours that linger onSPARKLING Leconfield Syn Rouge after the wine has gone. $18 Raidis Estate The Kid Sparkling Shiraz NV HHH Coonawarra Riesling6 TASTED Youthful nose smells of ripe DiGiorgio Family 2010 HHHH1/26 AWARDED plums. Simple jubey sweet Sterita Limestone Coast Very delicate aromas palate with lingering fruit Sauvignon Blanc Semillon reminiscent of orange blossom;A consistent class of good flavours. $17.50 2010 HHH1/2 some nice mineral notes.drinkers without any major Lemon zest on the nose with Elegant and refreshing freshhighlights or lowlights. Majella Coonawarra subtle florals. Palate fresh stone-fruit, sherbet and citrus Sparkling Shiraz and simple - nice combination palate - tight and zesty. GreatKatnook Estate 2005 HHH of citrus and passionfruit future. $14Coonawarra Vintage Brut Earthy savoury aromas and flavours. $14.99 Wangolina Station Mt2008 HHHH lovely aged palate with Benson Limestone CoastNose showing yeasty/toasty sweet, developed secondary Tidswell Wines Heathfield Semillon Sauvignon Blanccomplexity but still has flavours. $28 Ridge Limestone 2010 HHHH1/2freshness. Quite a delicate Coast Sauvignon Blanc Great example of style.palate; fresh, crisp and SAUVIGNON 2010 HHH1/2 Complex tropical aromas sittingbalanced with shortbread-like BLANC Lovely nose; smells of stinging on a background of grassyflavours. $32 nettle and tomato bush. Palate semillon characters. Excellent 10 TASTED bright, fresh and rich with palate brimming over withQuarisa Johnny Q 6 AWARDED sweet tropical flavours. $19 tropical varietal flavours with aSparkling Brut NV HHH zesty finish. $14Fragrant, citrusy notes to the “A very pleasing class,” agreed Katnook Founder’s Blocknose and a nice refreshing, the judges. Nice gooseberry Coonawarra Sauvignoncitrusy palate with a herbal notes rather than capsicum and Blanc 2009 HHH1/2touch. $12.99 herbaceous overtones. Richer fume style of sav blanc with gooseberry fruit on aKatnook Founder’s Heathcote Winery charry oak background. GoodBlock Coonawarra Craven Place acid line. Nice finish. $20Sparkling NV HHH Coonawarra SauvignonNice bubbles, some developed Blanc 2010 HHHH1/2 Jamiesons Run Limestoneorange rind aromas and great Nose showing the classic Coast Sauvignon Blancpeachy flavours on a creamy pungent varietal characters Semillon 2009 HHHpalate. $23 of gooseberries and tropical Lighter style with fresh fruit fruits. Palate fresh and crisp, and simple grassy/citrus varietalKoonara Bay of Apostles with long, lingering, ripe notes. Good acid spine. $15.99Geelong Pinot Noir passionfruit flavours with goodChardonnay 2010 HHH acid spine. $12 OTHER WHITEBright and fruity on the nose VARIETALSwith fine delicate white peach & BLENDSflavours and good acidity. $24.95 12 TASTED 12 AWARDED A very strong, consistent class of clean whites with excellent restrained elegant fruit in the riesling and pinot gris group. Good finesse here too.118 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2010

regional tastingLeconfield Majella Coonawarra CHARDONNAYOld Vines Coonawarra Riesling 2010 HHH1/2Riesling 2008 HHHH1/2 Lovely fresh, crisp, classic 9 TASTEDWell-integrated, elegant yet riesling with nice florals, lovelycomplex wine - starting to varietal fruit and good acid 8 AWARDEDshow typical aged kerosene balance. Early-drinking style. $16characters on the nose with Wangolina Station Very strong class whichzesty lime flavours on a Section 67 Mt Benson impressed the judges withbeautifully balanced palate Limestone Coast Semillon their freshness and lively fruitdriven by the acid. $24.95 2009 HHH1/2 characters and varietal, rather More Old World style with than dry white, overtones and its lemon-like nose and funky appropriate oak balance. background and nicely textured palate with mouthfilling Black Wattle flavours. $24 Mt Benson Chardonnay Koonara Lucy & Alice 2008 HHHH1/2 Limestone Coast Pinot Restrained, subtle, creamy pome Gris 2010 HHH fruit nose with elegant oak adding Smells of pears with subtle complexity. More of the oak on strawberry notes. Good varietal the palate, with nice crisp acidity Tidswell Wines Caves definition. Has character and to balance. Austere style with a Road Limestone Coast flavour. $19.95 future. 3-5 $27.99 CM Semillon Sauvignon Blanc Koonara Lady of the Lake 2010 HHHH Mt Gambier Pinot Gris Jamiesons Run Very young with fresh grassy/ 2010 HHH Limestone Coast citrus notes dominating the Delicate floral sherbet nose. Chardonnay 2009 HHHH nose. Palate quite green Tight, austere acid palate with Stone-fruit/melon bouquet and very cool-climate, with some pear and green apple edged with oak. Fresh, balanced excellent freshness and zingy flavours. $20 palate with good varietal citrus flavours. $15.50 definition, well-handled oak and crisp acid. Needs time. $15.99Raidis Estate Cheeky Wangolina Station Black Wattle LysanderGoat Coonawarra Section 67 30 RS Mt Mt Benson ChardonnayPinot Gris 2010 HHHH Benson Limestone Coast 2009 HHHHDistinct pear characters on the Riesling 2010 HHH Obvious white peach/melonnose and a rich, rounded palate Sweeter style. Fresh, bright aromas with a fresh, crispwith a tight structure and florals mingle with orange varietal palate of rockmelon,brimming over with rich, sweet blossom/green apple peach and citrus. Quitestone-fruit flavours. $15 characters. $22 austere and very Chablis-like. Katnook Estate Koonara Sofiel’s Gift Coonawarra Riesling 3-5 $16.99 CM Mt Gambier Riesling 2009 HHH 2010 HHHH Lean and crisp with light Quarisa Treasures Fresh, crisp, lean and youthful varietal fruit and already Padthaway Chardonnay style with some lovely starting to develop some nice 2008 HHHH minerality and lemon/citrus toastiness. $20 Rich, bright, golden wine with characters. Very cool-climate, powerful varietal fruit, soft very delicate; needs time to toasty/roasted nut-like oak develop. $16.95 elements and a long, lingering finish. 3-5 $14.99 JUDGESPeter Douglas Peter Weinberg Luke SkeerWinemaker for Koonara Winemaker for Winemaker for WynnsWines. Formerly chief McWilliam’s Wines’ Coonawarra Estate. Haswinemaker for Wynns Brand’s of Coonawarra. previously worked for WolfCoonawarra. A Bachelor Bachelor of Applied Blass Wines and Kangarillaof Agricultural Science in Science in Oenology Road in McLaren Vale.Oenology, he has completed and previously the Has also vintaged inmore than 20 vintages. assistant winemaker Bordeaux. Associate judgePeter has been an associate for Mt Pleasant Wines with the Adelaide, Clarejudge at the Griffith and in the Hunter Valley. Valley and LimestoneCanberra wine shows. Coast wine shows. November/December 2010 W I N E S TAT E 119

LIMESTONE COASTAngove Family Beeamma Estate Flint’s of CoonawarraWinemakers Vineyard Padthaway Chardonnay Tricky Gate CoonawarraSelect Limestone Coast 2008 HHH Merlot 2008 HHHHChardonnay 2009 HHH1/2 Lantana/green bean nose and Big, bright, fruit-driven - lovelyOak-driven chardonnay with a a fruit salad palate that’s thick crimson colour with purplebackground of bright, opulent and oily in the mouth. $14 hues. Has subtle cedary oakvarietal fruit characters of peach and long, silky tannins. Goodand melon. 3-5 $15 ROSÉ cellaring potential. 5+ $18 Koonara Belle AmieTolley Elite 1 TASTED Coonawarra Pinot NoirLimestone Coast 1 AWARDED 2009 HHHHChardonnay 2008 HHH1/2 Earthy savoury nose withVery oaky bouquet - developed Black Wattle Mt Benson lovely perfumed lift. Veryand toasty. Palate also Merlot Rosé 2009 HHH gamey palate with a hint ofdominated by the oak but Crisp, clean wine, great for strawberry. Has fine-grainedthere’s varietal fruit underneath. a Summer picnic, lots of tannins and dusty oak. Needs cherries, strawberries and time. $20 3-5 $18.99 CM plums. $22.99 CMLeconfield Coonawarra PINOT NOIR Wolf Blass Gold LabelChardonnay 2009 HHH Limestone Coast PinotSoft and simple, medium-gold 8 TASTED Noir 2008 HHHHwine with attractive varietal 2 AWARDED Big, smoky oak nose withfruit and lovely subtle oak. beetroot-like complexity and followed by a big-bodied, full- 3-5 $24.94 flavoured, savoury palate with fine tannin backbone. A small group of pinots with DiGiorgio Family southern Limestone Coast MERLOT & Coonawarra Emporio offering great potential for the BLENDS 2006 HHHH warm, dry vintages. Complex savoury/earthy aromas 11 TASTED with woody notes and a rich 10 AWARDED blood plum/dusty oak palate that fills the mouth with flavour and A strong, consistent class has a fine tannic end. $25.99 where the judges were pleased Jamiesons Run Limestone to see wines that avoided the Coast Merlot 2009 HHH1/2 green, leafy styles of the past. Fresh, perfumed plum and “Some of the best merlots I mulberry fruit bouquet followed have seen,” said one judge. “A by a soft, simple, fruity palate nice level of consistent ripe fruit with a lingering aftertaste. $15.99 that made for lovely drinking.” DiGiorgio Family Lucindale Limestone Coast Merlot 2008 HHH1/2 Oaky style with dark savoury mocha/spice aromas and a really plump, chocolaty palate with lovely soft tannins. 3-5 $19.99 Riddoch Coonawarra Merlot 2008 HHH1/2 Fine cedary oak sits on top of the bright plum fruit. Has intense aromas and long, lingering flavours. Lots of acid. $24.99 CM Katnook Estate Pepper Tree Coonawarra Merlot 14 Shores Wrattonbully 2008 HHHH Merlot 2008 HHH1/2 Classy wine with savoury/ Lovely perfumed/minty nose earthy characters dominating and a fruit-driven palate with the nose and an oaky palate rich, ripe flavours accompanied with nice persistence of some by some well-handled oak. $35 excellent ripe fruit flavours in the background. $40120 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2010

regional tastingLeconfield Coonawarra The Musician by Majella CABERNETMerlot 2009 HHH Coonawarra Cabernet SAUVIGNONEarthy wine with savoury Shiraz 2009 HHHH 2009/2008elements, soft plum fruit, Big and soft with loads of lovelydusty oak and fine tannins. bright cassis/plum varietal fruit 16 TASTED balanced by the powerful toasty 16 AWARDED 3-5 $24.95 oak and supported by a silky tannin backbone. Years ahead Fantastic consistency here,Capercaillie Wrattonbully of it. 5+ $17 with one judge saying, “ThisMerlot 2008 HHH is the classiest flight of winesDeveloped, savoury nose Jamiesons Run Limestone I have seen after judgingand palate with ripe fruit and Coast Cabernet Shiraz here for years!” Interestingly,balancing oak. High level of Merlot 2009 HHH1/2 although 2008 was difficult foralcohol. $27 Fresh, fruit-driven style with other regions it was too early lovely perfumed cassis/red to affect Coonawarra and itQuarisa Treasures berry fruit characters, dusty shows here.Coonawarra Merlot oak and fine tannin structure.2007 HHHElegant varietal - savoury and 3-5 $15.99earthy with fine cedar oak andlong tannin finish. $14.99 Black Wattle Lysander Raidis Estate Billy Mt Benson Cabernet Coonawarra CabernetCABERNET Sauvignon Merlot Sauvignon 2008 HHHH1/2BLENDS 2009 HHH Classic example of ripe varietal Vibrant blueberry and blackberry fruit here - all cassis and juicy dark10 TASTED varietal fruit mingles with earthy/ berries seamlessly balanced with8 AWARDED savoury characters. $16.99 CM fine, dusty, cedar-like oak; good level of astringency. Just needsLots of similar wines offering Wangolina Station Mt time. $21easy drinking with nice fruit but Benson Limestone Coast Leconfield Coonawarra(apart from a couple) not great Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignoncomplexity. Nice lunch wines! Shiraz 2008 HHH 2008 HHHH1/2 Medium-bodied wine with Rich, opulent, dark bramble bright plum fruit with an Berton Vineyard Reserve bouquet and lovely big, classic attractive earthy element. Coonawarra Cabernet cassis/choc mint palate backed A touch simple for now. $14 Sauvignon 2008 HHHHH by cedary oak and velvety Quarisa Treasures Huge, dark, dense, inky wine tannin structure. Lovely Coonawarra Cabernet with an “impenetrable” lingering finish. $33.50 Merlot 2006 HHH crimson colour. Dusty oak Developing, savoury secondary mingles with blackberry fruit characters but still has some aromas and the palate shows bright, fresh notes. Fine tannic lashings of blueberry fruit. end. $14.99 Quite tannic but it’s balanced Redman Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 5+ $18.99 Merlot 2006 HHH Pepper Tree Wrattonbully Nicely developed, well- Coonawarra Cabernet integrated wine with lovely Sauvignon 2008 HHHH1/2 varietal fruit, spicy oak and silky Gorgeous deep crimson wine tannins. $35 with a spicy rhubarb/plum Redman The Redman bouquet and lovely rich varietal Coonawarra Cabernet fruit leading the well-structured Sauvignon Merlot Shiraz palate. Nice dusty/vanillin oak, 2004 HHH good acidity and fine tannins. Elegant wine developing aged, earthy notes merging with the 3-5 $18 cassis fruit. Easy drinker. $70 Majella Coonawarra Cabernet SauvignonThe Malleea by 2008 HHHH1/2Majella Coonawarra Very intense and very classy,Cabernet Sauvignon almost black, cabernet. TheShiraz 2008 HHHHH nose has a lovely perfumed/Deep crimson wine with an violet-like lift and the palate is bursting with dark, minty fruit and spicy oak. $35intense, perfumed bouquet andan incredible depth and length ofcassis and blueberry-like flavoursbalanced by excellent cedaryoak. The palate has softness andtexture. 5+ $66 November/December 2010 W I N E S TAT E 121

LIMESTONE COASTJamiesons Run Limestone Redman CoonawarraCoast Cabernet Cabernet SauvignonSauvignon 2009 HHHH 2008 HHH1/2Nice fresh, light to medium Woody/earthy touch to theweight vibrant crimson nose. Palate has simple fruitcabernet with clean, perfumed characters sitting on top of afruit, some earthy/herbal big spicy oak background. $32notes and lovely silky-smoothtannins. 5+ $15.99 Argyle Wines Coonawarra CabernetQuarisa Treasures Sauvignon 2009 HHHCoonawarra Cabernet Fresh, complex, floral/spicySauvignon 2008 HHHH notes on the nose and a goodPowerfully rich, ripe, full- basic varietal palate with crispflavoured varietal with loads acidity. 3-5 $18of cassis and blackberry fruits,a big hit of dusty oak and a Katnook Founder’s Blockmouthful of fine tannins. $14.99 Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 HHHFlint’s of Coonawarra Developed, savoury nose andGammon’s Crossing tight, firm, astringent palate Koonara Angel’s PeakCoonawarra Cabernet balanced by ripe varietal fruit. Coonawarra CabernetSauvignon 2008 HHHH Needs time. $20 Sauvignon 2006 HHHHQuite a savoury/oaky nose Classic cassis/choc mintshowing hints of orange rind and Bowen Estate bouquet with earthyspices. Classy palate with fresh, Coonawarra Cabernet complexity developing, all ofbright varietal fruit and good firm Sauvignon 2008 HHH which follows through ontotannin backbone. 3-5 $22 Well-made wine with a the palate. High in acid with jubey nose showing earthy Koonara Bay of Apostles fine tannins. 3-5 $15.95 complexity. The palate is soft Coonawarra Cabernet and simple. 3-5 $29.99 Sauvignon 2006 HHHHH Powerful classic with intense Koonara Ambriel’s Gift cassis/dark berry fruit Coonawarra Cabernet characters showing a distinct Sauvignon 2008 HHH minty lift and lovely earthy Chocolaty oak nose - nice spicy complexity. Velvety soft in the lift - which follows through to mouth with great varietal fruit the palate with its raspberry flavour persistence. $20 background. $30 Wolf Blass Gold Label Katnook Estate Coonawarra Cabernet Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 HHHH Sauvignon 2008 HHH Smells of cassis fruit with a Clean, easy-drinking plum/red subtle touch of cedary oak and berry style with pleasant earthy some menthol notes. The fine, characters developing. $40 velvety palate has an abundance of pure varietal fruit with aJacobs Creek Reserve CABERNET balance of some well-handled,South Australia Cabernet SAUVIGNON very delicate, oak. $24.99Sauvignon 2008 HHHH 2007 & OLDEREucalypt/menthol complexity Wehl’s Mount Bensonto the cassis nose. Full-bodied 20 TASTED Vineyards Cabernetpalate with simple but powerful Sauvignon 2007 HHHHvarietal fruit and plenty of it. 20 AWARDED Opulent cassis nose with aGood tannin structure. $18.49 lovely minty/leafy character,Audrey Wilkinson Another strong class, some fruit sweetness on Koonara The TemptressWinemakers Selection confirming the region’s place the palate mixing with grippy Coonawarra CabernetWrattonbully Cabernet as one of Australia’s premium tannins and spicy oak. Robust Sauvignon 2006 HHHHSauvignon 2008 HHHH cabernet producers. While ‘07 mid-palate. $19.50 CD Lovely elegant style that’s fullDeveloped, savoury nose and was difficult, these were ready of flavour. Excellent seamlessnice classic varietal palate with to drink now, with the ‘06s Pepper Tree Calcare balance between the acid,the oak seamlessly balanced performing very well and with Coonawarra Cabernet varietal fruit, tannins and oak.with raspberry fruit and big potential for further ageing. Sauvignon 2007 HHHH Long, lingering, tannic finish.tannin structure. $30 Dark oaky aromas with some traces of mocha, spice, 3-5 $19 menthol and berries. Similar characters echoed on the long, lingering palate - good level of tannins. 3-5 $35122 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2010

regional tasting Pepper Tree Elderslee Road Wrattonbully Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 HHHH Nice intensity of cassis/black olive-like varietal fruit characters. Oaky nose and big, bold, sweet palate that feels soft and velvety in the mouth. $35DiGiorgio Family Brand’s Laira The PatronCoonawarra Cabernet Coonawarra CabernetSauvignon 2006 HHHH Sauvignon 2006 HHHHDark, savoury style, huge colour Cedar and vanilla aromas mingleand leathery complexity. A with the varietal fruit characters.balance of pure varietal fruit, Powerful yet elegant palate withdusty oak and drying tannins with ripe fruit and fine oak/tannina long lingering hot end. $25.99 balance. $74.99Orlando Jacaranda RidgeCoonawarra CabernetSauvignon 2005 HHHHBig, rich, ripe cabernet withan abundance of cassis fruit,chocolaty/cedar oak andattractive earthy/forest floorcomplexity developing. $62.99 Aldi Stores Holloway Road Limestone Coast Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 HHH1/2 Powerful blackberry nose with developed earthy/chocolaty characters and a very classy, layered palate. Great for its age. $19.99 Wynns CoonawarraKoonara Ambriel’s Gift Estate Vintage ReleaseCoonawarra Cabernet Coonawarra CabernetSauvignon 2006 HHHH Sauvignon 2006 HHH1/2Not a complex wine but has Nose is a lovely layeringseamless integration and of oak and different fruitbalance between the pure aromas. Nice, tightlyvarietal fruit, firm tannins, structured palate; good jubeysavoury oak and acid. Oaky on fruit length. 3-5 $34.99the finish. 3-5 $30 Beeamma Estate Padthaway Cabernet INES FROM TH Sauvignon 2007 HHH Distinctive tarry/leathery aromas and quite an advanced sweet, rounded palate. Has elegance. $14 FINE W WARA E T T E R R A M O R EFINE www.terramorewines.com.au WI NES E R R A Box 1 Coonawarra Ph 08 8736 5139 OF COONA November/December 2010 W I N E S TAT E 123

LIMESTONE COASTRichmond Grove Limited SHIRAZ BLENDS Wyndham Estate George Morambro CreekRelease Coonawarra Wyndham Founder’s Padthaway ShirazVineyards Cabernet 4 TASTED Reserve Limestone Coast 2008 HHHH1/2Sauvignon 2007 HHH 4 AWARDED Shiraz Cabernet 2006 HHH Very nice drinking. TheDeveloped, leafy bouquet with Developed earthy/savoury nose plummy nose has subtle dustya smoky element, and a stalky Small group but a good one. and ripe, tarry palate with good oak and hints of orange rindcabernet palate with powdery aftertaste. $21.59 and there’s soft, supple, sweettannins. $21.99 Audrey Wilkinson fruit on the palate finishingMalone Wrattonbully Winemakers Selection SHIRAZ with a big, oaky hit. $27.95Cabernet Sauvignon Wrattonbully Shiraz2007 HHH Viognier 2008 HHHH 24 TASTED Wehl’s MountLean, elegant style with Perfumed aromas - almost 24 AWARDED Benson Vineyards Shirazattractive red berry fruit orange blossom-like. Acid 2007 HHHH1/2showing leafy notes. Has some tending to dominate the Very strong consistent group Very ripe, bordering on porty,length. $25 palate for now with blackberry with shiraz ripening well over nose and a huge and astringentTidswell Wines jam-like fruit and a rich oak the past few vintages. Like the palate with intense, dark, inkyHeathfield Ridge background. $35 cabernets, 2008 performed fruit and a big, powerful hit ofLimestone Coast Cabernet well with rich, ripe fruit but toasty vanillin oak with a drying,Sauvignon 2006 HHH not overdone. Some exhibited tannic finish. 3-5 $20 CDDeveloped wine with alcohol warmth but the fruitearthy/herbal aromas and was there to carry it.quite an astringent and woodypalate. $22.50Rymill Coonawarra Karatta 12 Mile Vineyard Farmer’s Leap Malone WrattonbullyCabernet Sauvignon Robe Shiraz Cabernet The Brave Padthaway Shiraz 2007 HHHH1/22006 HHH Sauvignon 2006 HHHH Shiraz 2005 HHHHH Very complex and classy shirazLean, dry, mouth-puckering Big, rich, plum pudding of a nose Amazingly complex aromas of with lovely dark crimson hues.style of cabernet showing and an oak-dominated palate - black olives, ripe plums, cedar The fruit is bright and fresh, thedeveloped chocolaty very cedary but has enough fruit and chocolate. Great oak on tannins are soft and supple andcomplexity. $28 weight and sweetness to match. the big, ripe palate with plum the oak gives perfect seamlessJacobs Creek St Hugo Drying tannins. $15 pudding-like sweetness and balance. $25Coonawarra Cabernet Jip Jip Rocks flavour. Lovely silky-smooth Farmer’s Leap PadthawaySauvignon 2006 HHH Padthaway Shiraz tannin finish. $25 Shiraz 2005 HHHH1/2Dark, savoury, medicinal Cabernet 2009 HHH1/2 Wynns Coonawarra Developed and bordering onnose and a big, rich, tannic Attractive cool-climate style Estate Coonawarra Shiraz porty, with colour showingvarietal palate with some floral with spicy nutmeg/cinnamon 2008 HHHH1/2 slight brown edges. Mentholelements. $49.49 characters mingling with Classic shiraz fruit obvious here. lift to the nose and good solid,Koonara Ambriel’s Gift plum fruits and subtle oak. Smells of spicy plums - very plummy flavours with overt butCoonawarra Cabernet green and fresh. Palate has refined cedar oak. $18Sauvignon 2004 HHH 3-5 $16.95 elegance and structure with bigAged chocolaty nose and rich mulberry-like flavours. Highplenty of chocolaty flavours in alcohol. $19.99mingling with the soft fruit. Flint’s of CoonawarraElegant! $30 Rostrevor Coonawarra Shiraz 2008 HHHH1/2 STAR RATINGS  Dark, inky and earthy on the nose, with sweet blackberryThree-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of notes. Same inky density to theexcellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. palate, with ripe, licorice-likeAll wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry flavours and strong vanillin oak.professionals and are compared in peer Powerful wine but consumer-classes by three judges. friendly. $20CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters,a major mail-order business.CD Cellar door price.CDO Cellar door only.SO Sold out.$N/A Price not available at time of printing. Contact information pg 144. RECOMMENDED cellaring (years).124 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2010

regional tastingJamiesons Run Limestone Redman CoonawarraCoast Shiraz 2009 HHHH Shiraz 2008 HHHElegant, cool-climate green Fresh and fruity with spicy Join the Australian delegationbean nose with subtle oak and plums, licorice complexity, in Verona in 2011!a peppery lift. Same characters dusty oak and fine dryingfollow through to the palate, tannins. 3-5 $22 VINITALY 2011 - Verona, Italy, 07-11 APRIL 2011which features quite a hot The world’s premier wine exhibition, the ideal forumfinish. $15.99 Majella Coonawarra for export-ready companies and for buyers sourcingOrlando Lawson’s Shiraz 2008 HHH international wines.Padthaway Shiraz Intense licorice aromas - very The Italian Chamber of Commerce in Melbourne2003 HHHH fresh - and some nice peppery is the representative office of Vinitaly, providingStill fresh for its age, with flavours. Great potential. $28 assistance to Australian wine industry professionalsripe plum pudding characters attending the show:showing minty notes. Silky-soft Black Wattle Anniversary · Space and stand bookings at preferential ratesin the mouth with intense Limited Edition Limestone · Confirmed accommodation in Verona andflavours and good tannin Coast Shiraz 2008 HHHlength. $62.99 Intense, dark, inky fruit aromas flight bookingsBeeamma Estate with toasty oak and classic · LogisticsPadthaway Shiraz cool-climate flavours with high · Registration2008 HHH1/2 tannins. $40.99 CM The Chamber also actively promotes and facilitatesPleasant, medium-weight style contact between the Italian and Australian winewith clean, spicy plum fruit Black Wattle Mt Benson industries and provides trade services for the wineand fine, soft tannins. Some Shiraz 2007 HHH industry: market research, business listings, businessdevelopment happening. Hot Some nice spicy/peppery cool- matching and appointment agendas.finish. $14 climate fruit. Medium-weight palate with even tannins and For more information contact: acid backbone. $24.99 CM Level 5, 499 St Kilda Road, Melbourne VIC 3004, Australia Tel: 03 9866 5433Bowen Estate Coonawarra Katnook Estate E: [email protected] 2008 HHH1/2 Coonawarra Shiraz www.italcham.com.auSmells of mocha and spice - 2007 HHHtastes of plum pudding. Medium Lightly oaked wine with a Ode To The Vineweight palate with silky tannins lifted, peppery nose and sweetand hot finish. 3-5 $29.99 ripe fruit flavours on a powerful Winter is for pruning palate. $40 Working in the coldBrand’s Laira Stentiford’s Koonara Angel’s The vines we are tuningCoonawarra Old Vine Peak Coonawarra Shiraz Now fifteen years oldShiraz 2006 HHH1/2 2006 HHH Spring came with a budburstOak-driven wine developing Big, developed, oaky nose and Spraying has begunleathery/earthy aged notes, sweet, developed, earthy palate. Summer rain feed the vines thirstsoft blackberry flavours and an Soft, easy drinker. $15.95 They flourish in the sunalcoholic ending. Koonara Ezra’s Gift Autumn cellar door Coonawarra Shiraz Rosemary and Thyme 3-5 $74.99 2006 HHH Try a Karatta for sure Elegant classic starting to We think you’ll love the wineJip Jip Rocks Padthaway develop some attractive ageShiraz 2009 HHH and fine tannic structure. $24 David Gillespie -Very alcoholic with a big, DiGiorgio Family Manager Karatta Winespeppery lift to the nose and Coonawarra Shirazcomplex licorice flavours with 2006 HHH Visit Karatta Cellar Door,velvety tannins. $16.95 Fresh, vibrant and youthful style Robe-Penola Road one and a with some lovely dark, savoury, half kilometres past the Beachport Turnoff,Pepper Tree Wrattonbully spicy elements. $25.99 Open 11am to 4pm weekendsShiraz 2009 HHH Rymill Coonawarra and holidays, or by appointment.Clean, fresh, fruity style with Shiraz 2005 HHH Phone (08) 87357255 www.karattawines.com.auspicy plum fruit, bright, spicy Very developed, chocolaty winenotes and fine, silky tannins. with some aged plum fruit andA baby! 3-5 $18 big tannins. $24Patrick of CoonawarraMother of PearlLimestone Coast Shiraz2008 HHHFruit-driven style with spice andpepper on the nose and lovelybright, spicy plum flavours. 3-5 $18 November/December 2010 W I N E S TAT E 125

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINNORTH EAST VICTORIASUITE RETREAT family’s plant nursery. Because of the lovely There is real Lucchese welcome from Angelo, gardens, it’s a popular spot for weddings, too. his wife Moya and their son Danny. TheYOU CAN wake up in the country to the trio tend the vines, make the wine and runsounds of birds singing but be just a few Chef Jan Waddington has created a the cellar door. Angelo chose the locationminutes’ drive from the excellent restaurants contemporary menu focusing on regional because he felt it had lots in common withand cafes of Bright when you stay at The produce, with dishes like roulade of saltbush Chianti. Ceccanti is usually open Thursday toBuckland Studio Retreat. In the peaceful lamb with a spinach, walnut and currant filling, Sunday for lunch, but is closed during winter.Buckland Valley, the retreat has five eco- coriander-stuffed prawns on a pear and red 285 Bay Creek Lane, Mt Beauty. Phone (03)sensitive and widely separated luxury suites pepper salad, and Gundowring ice cream, 5754 5236; www.ceccanti.com.au.with private decks and views of Mt Buffalo, made just down the road. The wine featuresolive groves and vineyards. With their chic many local boutique producers, such as In total contrast is the Tawonga Vineyard,furnishings, they are designed with couples Annapurna, Wild’s Gully, Wood Park and where the vines are surrounded by suburbanin mind. The suites all back on to bushland Pizzini. Waddington’s, at 2688 Kiewa Valley homes and John and Diz Adams make aand there is a resident wombat in addition Hwy, Kergunyah, is open for lunch Thursdays range of wines literally in their garage. Sinceto all manner of birdlife. to Sundays and for dinner on Fridays and 1993, John has used grapes from his own Saturdays by appointment. Phone (02) 6027 vines and from the Kiewa and King valleys Excellent breakfasts are served in the on-site 5393; www.waddingtons.com.au. to make an eclectic selection that includescafe. There’s a variety of breads, locally made verdelho, viognier and marsanne, along withjams and marmalade, yoghurts, cereals, fruit CHARMING CELLAR DOORS merlot, shiraz, durif and chambourcin - all injuice, seasonal fresh fruit or homemade fruit a space where there is barely room to swingcompote, or choose a country-style cooked NORTH-East Victoria has an unsurpassed a cat. 2 Drummond St, Tawonga. Phone (03)breakfast. Tariffs start from $295 a night per selection of small cellar doors offering a 5754 4945; www.tawongavineyard.com.couple and a range of packages is available, range of very different experiences. Atas are last-minute deals. The retreat is on Ceccanti Wines in the remote Kiewa Valley Two other intriguingly different cellarMcCormack’s Lane, Buckland. Phone (03) is a little slice of Italy tucked away down a doors are Pennyweight and Tinkers Hill.5756 2383; www.thebuckland.com.au. country lane. Here you can enjoy country Quintessentially Australian, with gum trees Italian cuisine, from a five-course banquet and old wooden sheds, Pennyweight, justTASTES OF THE REGION to a simple but delicious Tuscan bean soup, outside Beechworth, was established in along with charming wines. The chicken 1982 by Stephen and Elizabeth Morris, whoWADDINGTONS at Kergunyah offers an livers spiced with peppers, rosemary and produce an impressive range of fortifiedauthentic country eating experience - a huge red wine and served with parmesan cheese, and table wines certified organic. Stephentimber barn has been converted into a rustic are a house speciality. is a descendant of George Morris, whodining room and many of the ingredients come started making wines at Rutherglen 150from the on-site vegetable garden. Visitors can Angelo Ceccanti arrived in Australia from years ago. Pennyweight is on Pennyweightchoose between eating in the main restaurant, Lucca in Tuscany in 1969 with the family motto Lane, Beechworth, and is open daily. Phoneor al fresco overlooking the Waddington ‘Fortis et hospitalis’ - strong and hospitable. (03) 5728 1747; www.pennyweight.com.au.126 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2010

travelbriefs LUXURIOUS HUT HOTEL and motel rooms can have a certain sameness, which is why it is refreshing to stay somewhere as quirky as the fabulous 1860 Luxury Accommodation in downtown Beechworth, a converted and restored 1860s timber cattleman’s hut that’s simultaneously rustic and sophisticated. Built by a timber feller and carpenter, 1860 was deconstructed piece by piece and moved from Taggerty, 200km At isolated Tinkers Hill, set in a national park away, to Beechworth by Gina Bladon MORE THAN JUST BUTTERin the Woolshed Valley, you can taste the and Matt Pfahlert to save it from fallingwines of owners James and Rhonda Taylor into disrepair. It has a supremely THE BUTTER Factory in Myrtleford is aas well as those made by their daughter comfortable bedroom, fully equipped cafe, restaurant and artisan butter factoryKristy at nearby Cirko V. Local cheese and kitchen, lounge room with an open fire that serves Mediterranean-style foodantipasti platters can be enjoyed here at and en suite bathroom boasting a two- made from fresh local ingredients, suchshaded picnic tables. 84 Sugarloaf Lane, person bath. It’s a superb combination as pan-fried Black Range trout fillets withBeechworth. Phone (03) 5728 3327. of the old and the new in a lovely verjuice, dill and butter sauce, or Wyuna garden setting. poll hereford beef, braised in red wine withBALTIC AT MT BEAUTY potatoes, button mushrooms and baby The cottage, at 4 Surrey Lane, onions. Fresh pasta dishes, and a tastingIT’S something of a surprise to come across overlooks Spring Creek and the plate filled with a variety of local goodies,a Scandinavian-style cafe and delicatessen parklands of Lake Sambell and is just are menu fixtures – and, yes, hand-churnedon the slopes of Mt Beauty – but that’s a short stroll from the many outstanding butter is made on the premises. The on-siteexactly what you get at å skafferi - Swedish local cafes, restaurants and bakeries, produce store also sells preserves andfor pantry at Svarmisk apartments. In including Michael Ryan’s award-winning condiments made on site.Swedish, å means stream or small river, and The Provenance.as a stream meanders through Svarmisk’s For those staying in self-cateringgrounds it was a natural choice of name. A gourmet welcome hamper and accommodation, lunch and dinner hampers continental breakfast provisions are are available, including seasonal soup with There’s a delicatessen-style servery area included in the tariff. Prices start crusty Milawa bread, an antipasto selectionand produce store, and guests can dine from $275 a night and packages of grilled and marinated vegetables andinside or on a shaded deck area. The are available. Phone 0408 273 783; handmade charcuterie, a selection ofskafferi is open 7am-6pm seven days and in www.1860luxuryaccommodation.com. Milawa cheeses with crackers, handmadeaddition to Swedish imports like crispbreads, pastas and sauces or oven-baked pastas,owner Lena Moro specialises in fresh local as well as meals that reflect the season,produce and wines. Breakfast is served such as braised osso bucco with mashedfrom 7-11.30am with dishes like homemade potato, or Harrietville trout fillets.baked beans with ham hock and Milawabread ($10). The all-day menu (actually from Open Thursday-Tuesday from 8am11.30) features dishes including the ‘Swedish and for dinner on Friday and Saturday,Sampler’ with matjes herring, mustard, The Butter Factory is at Great Alpinecrispbread and aged Milawa cheddar ($14), Rd, Myrtleford. Phone (03) 5752 2300;open toasted sandwiches or maybe Swedish www.thebutterfactory.com.au.meatballs, served with lingonberry jam. 84Bogong High Plains Rd, Mt Beauty. Phone Left: 1860 luxury accommodation interior.(03) 5754 4544; www.svarmisk.com.au. Centre: 1860 luxury cottage accommoadtion. Right: Buckland Studio Retreat exterior. Opposite page: The skafferi at Svarmisk and interior. November/December 2010 W I N E S TAT E 127

114 TASTED70 AWARDEDNORTH EAST VICTORIAA solid tasting of both table and fortified wines, with Sam Miranda Snowthe former coming from the King and Alpine valleys Road King Valley Moscatoand the latter from the legendary Rutherglen and 2009 HHHGlenrowan regions. One of Victoria’s “Jewel in the Fragrant, aromatic muscatCrown” regions! aromas and sweet, luscious fruit bomb of a palate.SPARKLING Silent Range Estate Chrismont La Zona Refreshing style. $12 Sarah Kathleen King Valley Pinot Grigio Buller Black Dog Creek12 TASTED Glenrowan Sparkling 2009 HHHH1/2 King Valley Sauvignon5 AWARDED Shiraz 2008 HHHH Lifted nose shows excellent Blanc 2009 HHH Smells of plums and shows a varietal intensity of apples, Light, grassy nose with aInteresting styles ranging hint of leathery development pears and quinces with a floral sweaty touch, and a palate thatfrom the traditional to the new with a minty lift, leading to touch. Lovely palate has flavour, exhibits pleasant tropical fruitproseccos, which offer a great a very pleasant, fruit-driven texture and weight, with great flavours. $15opportunity for the future. palate. $28 fruit and zingy acid. $22 Silent Range Estate Reserve Christmont La Zona King Chrismont King Valley Glenrowan SauvignonBrown Brothers Methode Valley Prosecco NV HHH1/2 Riesling 2009 HHHH Blanc 2009 HHHTraditionelle King Valley Crisp apple bouquet with a Sweet tropical fruit nose; a Smells of canned peas and hasPinot Noir Chardonnay candied lift, and flavours of touch floral. Rich palate with good tropical fruit weight onPinot Meunier NV HHHH strawberries with some caramel great length of peachy/bath the long, rich palate. $20Fruity nose and fresh, complex, notes and fresh acid. $22 salts-like flavours and nice Buller Black Dog Creekyeasty palate, well liquored Sam Miranda Snow Road minerally finish. $16 King Valley Chardonnayand with good length and King Valley Sparkling King River Estate 2008 HHHpersistence of flavours and White NV HHH King Valley Vermentino Well-made long, rich wine withgood acid backbone. $22.90 Soft toasty/yeasty sparkler 2009 HHHH sweet peach/nectarine fruit with simple tropical fruit Very good citrus blossom- aromas and flavours. $15 characters and some bottle like aromas with some wild Sam Miranda King Valley development. $14 ferment characters. Palate Chardonnay 2008 HHH nutty and textured, with ripe Very traditional oaky style with OTHER WHITE pear/nectarine flavours. $25 spicy notes on the nose and VARIETALS Sam Miranda King Valley a balance of toasty/stone-fruit & BLENDS Arneis 2010 HHH1/2 flavours. $28 Restrained nose with slight Brown Brothers Limited 22 TASTED spicy/floral elements. Palate Release King Valley Pinot shows good level of acidity Grigio 2008 HHH 12 AWARDED with a soft, fine texture. Well Light floral/pear nose and made. $20 balanced, medium-lengthSam Miranda King Valley The recent warm vintages have De Bortoli Windy palate with moderate flavoursChardonnay Pinot Noir affected some of the vibrancy Peak King Valley Riesling and good acid. $29.902008 HHHH of these wines, but if you pick 2009 HHH1/2 Sam Miranda King ValleyPersistent bead and aged, and choose you will find some Smells of citrus peel and citrus Riesling 2006 HHHcomplex, ‘bready’ nose with good drinks. Some of the new blossom and has a citrusy palate. True aged riesling with typicala good weight and length of varieties, such as arneis and A fresh, clean varietal. $14.90 kerosene-like aromas whichrounded flavours and good vermentino, are worth looking at. are echoed on the palate. Drinklevel of acidity. $30 soon. $20 ROSÉ 4 TASTED 0 AWARDED Disappointing! A flight of ‘afterthoughts’, said the judges, rather than purpose-built rosés.128 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2010

regional tastingDURIF De Bortoli Windy Boggy Creek Vineyards Brown Brothers Cellar Peak Victoria Sangiovese King Valley Sangiovese Door Release King Valley6 TASTED 2008 HHHH1/2 2008 HHH Tempranillo Graciano4 AWARDED Very aromatic nose and lovely Soft, porty style with nice spicy 2008 HHH dark, leafy berry aromas with notes, up-front varietal fruit and Ripe raspberry fruit lift toGreat result for the area, with a minty lift. Soft, long, fully grippy tannin structure. $26 the nose and oak-dominatedthe judges commenting on the textured palate with sweet fruit Auldstone CSM palate with minty/chocolaty“new-style” durif, where the from beginning to end. $14.90 Glenrowan Cabernet flavours. $17.90tannins come from the grapes, Chrismont La Zona Shiraz Merlot 2006 HHHnot the oak. King Valley Tempranillo Nose of blackcurrant pastilles Morris of Rutherglen 2009 HHHH and allspice. Spicy palate with Rutherglen GrenacheTaminick Cellars Leaner style with a bright, older oak influence and some Shiraz 2008 HHHGlenrowan Durif perfumed berry nose and long, leafy notes. $19 Ripe, jammy, purple wine2007 HHHH1/2 well-structured palate with Boggy Creek almost bordering on a fortifiedLifted nose smelling of dark savoury tannins and a drying Vineyards King Valley and showing a good tanninberries and cracked coffee finish. $24 Barbera 2005 HHH structure. $20beans, and big, savoury palate Chrismont La Zona King Nice vanillin oak charactersthat’s warm and bold with big Valley Barbera 2009 HHHH on the nose, and a soft, oaky Boggy Creek Vineyardsconcentration of berry fruit Smells like Ribena and has a palate with interesting acid/ King Valley Sangioveseflavours. $16 perfumed lift. Loads of lovely tannin combination. $24 Shiraz 2006 HHH sweet berry fruit flavours on Simple, spicy, lolly-like style ofScion Wines Rutherglen a palate with a soft tannic OTHER red with some nice dark berryDurif 2008 HHHH structure. Very elegant. $24 RED BLENDS fruit and older savoury oak toGreat purple colour with a rich Chrismont La Zona balance. $50concentration of spicy oak King Valley Sangiovese 8 TASTEDon the nose, and big, sweet, 2009 HHH1/2 4 AWARDED MERLOTmouthfilling fruit flavours with Lifted, aromatic and perfumedgood tannin length. $29 bouquet. Well-balanced, Sam Miranda High Plains 7 TASTED savoury, tannin palate with nice King Valley Cabernet 1 AWARDEDChambers Rosewood level of varietal flavours. $24 Sauvignon 2009 HHH1/2Vineyards Rutherglen De Bortoli Sero King Classy number with good Too many lean and meanDurif 2008 HHH1/2 Valley Merlot Sangiovese intensity, length and styles here that lacked fruitLighter, fresher, fruity style. 2008 HHH1/2 persistence of varietal fruit, weight. A difficult variety for‘New age’ durif with a vibrant Stalky green/spicy plum aromas excellent soft tannin structure the cooler regions.palate and soft tannins. $16 and plenty of round, rich fruit and dry ending. $12 flavours with a sour cherry-like Rose Hill Estate KingMorris of Rutherglen finish. $13.90 Valley Merlot 2008 HHHRutherglen Durif Morris Rutherglen Lifted minty/eucalypt nose2007 HHH1/2 Cinsault 2008 HHH and austere but well-balancedLight, juicy blackberry pastille Big, oaky nose with traces of palate with simple dry redbouquet and rich, ripe jammy berries. The simple palate is flavours. $18palate with grippy tannins. jammy and offers pleasantGood cellaring potential. $25 drinking. $17 CABERNET & BLENDSOTHER REDVARIETALS 9 TASTED 7 AWARDED14 TASTED9 AWARDED Strong group of consistent, high- quality varietals which did well inSome excellent Mediterranean the recent warm vintages.varietals here, reflectingadditional vine age and theexperience of winemakers.Cate Looney Roland Kaval JUDGESWinemaker for Brown Wine manager forBrothers’ Milawa Winery. Global Wine Markets, Luis SimianPreviously worked as winemaker for Cavalier Winemaker for Politiniwinemaker at Scotchman’s Wines and former Wines, with previousHill Winery and has winemaker for St vintage experience atvintaged in Sonoma, Leonards in North East Brown Brothers, MirandaCalifornia. Associate judge Victoria. Associate judge Wines, R.L. Buller and atat the Australian Inland at Ballarat Wine Show. Stag’s Leap in the NapaWine Show, Victorian Has been a winemaker Valley. Has judged atWine Show and the NSW for 23 years. Swan Hill and RutherglenSmall Winemakers’ Show. wine shows. November/December 2010 W I N E S TAT E 129

NORTH EAST VICTORIAEagle Range Estate Morris of Rutherglen Taminick Cellars FORTIFIEDWines Candy’s Rim Rutherglen Cabernet Generations IV GlenrowanAlpine Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 HHH Shiraz 2008 HHHH 20 TASTEDSauvignon 2008 HHHH Good commercial style with Light, simple, cool-climate style 19 AWARDEDInteresting balance of pastille- minty/leafy red berry fruit, good with lifted, spicy, choc/mintlike fruit, savoury stock cube oak and slightly overt tannins. $17 bouquet and well-balanced This a world-class region forcharacters and some minty palate full of soft, sweet berry liqueur tokay and muscats and,leafiness. Soft and very Taminick Cellars fruit flavours. $24 yet again, this tasting showeddrinkable. $20 Special Release Morris of Rutherglen up what one judge referred to Glenrowan Cabernet Rutherglen Shiraz the “glory of it all”. Sauvignon 2008 HHH 2006 HHH1/2 Boot polish characters mingle Plenty of spicy berry fruit with a Morris Cellar Reserve with berry jam aromas. Good touch of choc/mint characters, Rutherglen Liqueur Tokay fruit weight on palate, with dash of black pepper and hint NV (500ml) HHHHH tight acid spine. $20 of menthol. $17 This one has everything going Silent Range Estate for it - excellent balance of old Auldstone Glenrowan Glenrowan Shiraz and fresh material, cold tea, Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 HHH1/2 citrus characters, lovely rancio 2008 HHH Raspberry cola-like aromas - a age and spirit adding a lift. $35 Nose of blackcurrant pastilles touch leafy - and a palate with and allspice. Spicy palate with sweet, rich flavours and good Morris Old Premium older oak influence and some length of savoury tannins. $22 Rutherglen Rare Tokay NV leafy notes. $25 Brown Brothers Cellar (500ml) HHHHH Door Release King Fantastic deep amber wine Sam Miranda Girls Block Valley Shiraz Mondeuse with lovely khaki hues. Rich King Valley Cabernet Cabernet 2005 HHH1/2 malty/rancio nose, thick, lush, Sauvignon Petit Verdot Oaky nose with leathery almost oily palate with intense 2008 HHH development mingling with dark chocolaty/syrupy flavours. Hints of blackberries and spice spicy/jammy fruit. Complex A complete wine. $65 on the nose. Oak tending to dark berry palate with dominate the palate. Tight acid mouthfilling tannins. $39.90 spine. $34 Taminink Cellars Cliff Booth Glenrowan Shiraz SHIRAZ & BLENDS 2008 HHH Lighter style of shiraz with a 9 TASTED suggestion of a medicinal-like 7 AWARDED character on nose and palate. $18 Souter’s Vineyard Alpine This is a region which, historically, Valley Shiraz 2008 HHH produces big-flavoured shiraz Quite a vinous nose with a with mid-palate weight, plus minty/menthol lift. followed by a some interesting cool-climate, short, simple, herbal palate. $25 spicy styles from the hills. SWEET WHITE 3 TASTED 2 AWARDEDBuller Black Dog Creek Small range of mid-rangeKing Valley Cabernet ‘sweeties’.Merlot 2008 HHH1/2Light prune aromas and warm Buller Black Dog Sam Miranda King valley Morris Old Premiumpalate with mouthfilling tannins, Creek King Valley Shiraz Botrytis Riesling 2009 HHH Rutherglen Rare Muscatgood flavour concentration and 2008 HHHH Honeyed marmalade lift to NV (500ml) HHHHHa drying finish. $15 Well-structured wine with great the nose, and soft palate with World-class wine with its intenseSam Miranda length of spicy varietal fruit orange peel flavours and slight raisin/molasses charactersSnow Road King Valley- showing a dash of black pepper bitter end. $25 and complex rancio layers.Alpine Valley Cabernet and lots of chocolaty oak to Ciavarella Oxley Estate “Yummy”, mouthfilling, lusciousMerlot 2009 HHH balance. $15 King Valley Late Harvest Christmas cake flavours withSweet berry nose - a touch Semillon Aucerot 2005 excellent spirit. $65jammy - with oak dominating (375ml) HHHthe lean, herbal palate with Smells of apricots, citrus,tight tannins. $12 honey and toast and has rich citrus flavours and excellent acid balance. $25130 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2010

regional tastingBaileys Winemakers Baileys Founder Classic Baileys Founder Classic Chambers RosewoodSelection Glenrowan Rutherglen Liqueur Rutherglen Liqueur Tokay Vineyards RutherglenLiqueur Muscat Muscat NV (500ml) HHHH NV HHH1/2 Dry Flor NV HHHNV HHHH1/2 Lighter, younger style of Lighter, younger style of Nutty/flor yeast nose and niceVery luscious style with a tokay with bright, zesty citrus tokay with bright, zesty citrus dry, nutty palate with a goodpowerful rancio nose and marmalade aromas and flavours marmalade aromas and flavours acid backbone. $12lovely zesty orange peel and a nutty/mealy finish. $23.99 and a nutty/mealy finish. $23.99 Chambers Rosewoodpalate. Great use of young Morris Classic Rutherglen Auldstone Glenrowan Vineyards Rutherglenblended material here with Liqueur Muscat NV Liqueur Muscat NV HHH1/2 Liqueur Muscat NV HHHslightly sour-like acid. $75 (500ml) HHHH Fairly youthful orange blossom/ Young but complex wine withMorris Cellar Reserve Fragrant, lifted, spicy/rose peachy nose freshened by candied fruit nose and obviousRutherglen Liqueur Muscat water bouquet and great spirit. Palate light and simple spirit on a sweet palate. $16NV (500ml) HHHH1/2 intensity of mixed peel, plum with spicy/zesty flavours. $30 Chambers RosewoodLovely sweet and luscious pudding fruit/spice flavours John Gehrig Wines King Vineyards Rutherglenmuscat but not cloying. Dark with some powerful spirit. $17 Valley Durif Vintage Port Light Muscat 2010 HHHcoffee/chocolaty nose and Taminick Cellars 2001 HHH1/2 Lovely style, slight blush pinkrich, mouth-coating, tarry/inky Glenrowan Liqueur Rich aromas of blackberries and with musky/floral aromasflavours showing great aged Muscat NV HHHH plenty of ripe berry fruits on a and clean, fresh, zesty lemoncharacters. $35 Intense rose petal bouquet with well-balanced palate with a good palate. $13Baileys Winemakers a perfumed lift, which is echoed level of warming spirit. $25 Scion WinesSelection Glenrowan on the lively and beautifully Chambers Rosewood Rutherglen Sweet DurifLiqueur Tokay NV HHHH balanced palate with its Turkish Vineyards Rutherglen 2008 (500ml) HHHYouthful dark molasses bouquet delight characters. $18 Muscadelle NV HHH Lovely sweet, dark varietalwith salty fish sauce notes. Palate Morris Classic Young, soft and warm, with fruit and clean spirit. Goodfull and luscious, with lovely Rutherglen Liqueur Tokay dried raisined fruit characters commercial style. $29chocolate and spicy flavours. $75 NV (500ml) HHH1/2 and lovely honeyed notes. Morris Rutherglen Vintage Showing great age and Pleasant drinking. $16 Port 2003 HHH intensity, with lingering, sweet, Very Portuguese-like style, with cold tea flavours on an oily rich fruit, attractive marzipan palate with nice malt extract characters and warm brandy characters. $17 spirit. $20a wine cabinet to suityour lifestyleCT Series Cabinets 32bforttootml8e6s0Unbeatable value forglass-door wine cabinetsPeltier CabinetsLong-life, no vibration,Peltier coolingWineVac CabinetsUnderbench unitswith integrated winepreservation systemKITCHENER Phone 03 9459 2999. Details of our range and pricing are available online www.kitchenerwinecabinets.comWINE CABINETSMORE THAN PREMIUM WINE STORAGE November/December 2010 W I N E S TAT E 131

travelbriefsWINSOR DOBBINCANTERBURY & CENTRAL OTAGOBLEND OF TWO ERAS Square features “personal dining pods”, bit different at Matakauri Lodge, reflecting where solo diners have a television screen the lodge’s more contemporary feel andTHE NEW 193-room Novotel Christchurch and internet access. Recreation facilities the adventurous Queenstown surrounds.”Cathedral Square is a classic blend of include a gym and rates start from $169old and new, incorporating the heritage- per room per night. Phone +64 3 372 2111; A tasting menu that changes daily islisted Warner’s Hotel, originally built in www.novotel.com. offered each evening, with guests choosing1863, into a new complex that combines how many courses they want. Dishes mayheritage, modern design and local art. NEW VIEWS OF LUXURY include thyme and honey-glazed duckThe Warner’s Hotel was fully restored to its breast with celeriac puree and five-spiceformer grandeur, with specialist tradesmen THE LODGE at Kauri Cliffs and The sauce; rack of lamb with confit shoulder,using tools over 100 years old to repair the Farm at Cape Kidnappers, two of New tortellini, braised vegetables and saffron jus;architraves and re-lay tiles in the foyer. Zealand’s most luxurious lodges, have or Aoraki salmon fillet and scampi spring been joined by a third sibling, also owned A new building was constructed behind by the Robertson family. Matakauri Lodgethe existing hotel, adding 154 rooms to at Queenstown is on the edge of Lakethe existing 39 heritage rooms and suites. Wakatipu and has striking views of TheNovotel regional manager Zayne Boon says Remarkables mountain range. The totallyguests can choose between rooms that have refurbished property is just 7km from all thetheir origins almost 150 years apart. “It is action in Queenstown but an oasis of calm.quite remarkable for a hotel to be able to There are four suites and six luxuriousoffer rooms that either date to the mid-19th villas, styled by interior designer Virginiacentury or the 21st century, but the Novotel Fisher, and a spacious main lodge withmanages to seamlessly provide a taste of the plenty of areas in which to eat, drink andold and new,” he said. “The Warner’s Hotel relax. Each has a private terrace.has been a landmark in Christchurch foralmost 150 years, but the past two decades British-born chef Dale Gartland, formerly ofweren’t kind to the hotel and by the time it was Relais & Chateaux property Gidleigh Park,closed to enable the Novotel development is head chef. Dale started at Kauri Cliffs roll with crayfish and coriander bisque.it was a shadow of its former self.” seven years ago and was named head chef The wine list focuses on Central Otago, at The Farm in 2007. He plans to make full but look out for the Robertson family’s new A feature of the interior design is the use use of local flavours and reflect the rustic Kidnapper Cliffs label - a collaborationof local artists to ensure the hotel lives up character of the region and New Zealand. between Hawke’s Bay’s Te Awa winery andto its identity as a Canterbury icon, while “It will be a simple and modern approach to Martinborough’s Dry River.a sweeping staircase leads up to the first- New Zealand/European cuisine - letting thefloor bar and The Square restaurant, which ingredients speak for themselves,” he says. Matakauri Lodge has a spa, fitnessoverlooks Cathedral Square and focuses on “I’m looking forward to doing something a centre, outdoor infinity pool, saunalocal produce and South Island wines. The and jacuzzi and activities including132 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2010

travelbriefshorse riding, fly fishing, skiing and EARTHY EXCELLENCE PRETTY PLACEwinery tours. Opening rates were FOR A SCHOOL$595 per person per night, including THREESIXTY is regarded as one ofaccommodation, pre-dinner drinks, Queenstown’s most innovative restaurants, AKAROA is one of New Zealand’s prettiestdinner and breakfast. Phone +64 3441 with seasonal menus from executive chef fishing villages. Just 75km from Christchurch,1008; www.matakaurilodge.com. Fabien Simon, who uses fresh, locally this historic French and British settlement is sourced ingredients as part of the threesixty nestled in the heart of an ancient volcanoSWITCHED-ON HOTEL ‘down to earth’ philosophy. Diners can and is known for its colonial architecture, tuck into a variety of European-inspired galleries, craft stores and cafes.CHRISTCHURCH has a new city centre delights that include a ‘taste of threesixty’hotel with a high-tech focus. The Marque five-course degustation menu with freshly- It is also home to the Akaroa CookingChristchurch is the heart of the central baked bread. Degustations start from $99, School, which offers one-day classes andbusiness district and occupies 15 floors of one or $140 matched with wines. demonstrations to teach how to cook usingof the tallest buildings on the South Island. All fresh local and seasonal produce. Recipes are171 rooms and suites have free high-speedbroadband access, an iPod docking station,a desk with a comfortable ergonomic chair,and a laptop-sized safe. Free wireless internetis also available in all the public areas andthe business centre. In the lobby, guestshave around-the-clock access to a virtualconcierge - an interactive LCD touch screenthey can use to search for local attractions,shopping, transport and entertainment.“Everything has been designed for thecomfort and convenience of our guests,”says general manager Brad Watts. “Winter warming dishes such as the braised designed to be replicated at home. The school The Gloucester St hotel has an on- Leeland gourmet lamb shoulder, pan-seared is on the waterfront and has spectacular wild venison, brill cassoulet and the comfort views of Akaroa harbour and surroundingsite restaurant, Fresh; a funky bar, Wet; options such as lamb shanks, rib-eye steak hills. Classes start from $175 per person andand a gymnasium. While targeted at and fresh fish cakes are all very popular,” says dishes like hot smoked Akaroa salmon onbusiness travellers, it is well situated for food and beverage manager Vinni Patena. lemon, baby spinach and thyme risotto areholidaymakers, with a tram stop right on the prepared then enjoyed around a large diningdoorstep and Cathedral Square just around Chef Fabien says his menu has a distinctly table, with matching New Zealand wines.the corner. Phone +61 3943 3888; www. rustic and hearty theme that uses modernmarquehotels.com/christchurch/ European cooking techniques to showcase The vision of Ant and Lou Bentley, the school the flavours of New Zealand. “The ‘down to offersseasonalmenuoptions,andthere’salsoa earth’ approach is especially fun to cook with kitchenshopwitharangeofequipmentforsale, but it’s not just about food - it’s about the way includingessentialgadgets,crockery,potsand we interact with the world around us,” he says. pans and bakeware, along with infused extra virgin olive oils from Robinson’s Bay. The main bar and restaurant area look out over Lake Wakatipu to The Remarkables, The school is open from 10am-3.30pm on while the Bed Bar features a custom-made, various days of the week and is opposite the oversize divan with huge throw cushions, main wharf at 81 Beach Rd. Phone +64 21 and The Martini Room is enclosed by 166 3737; www.akaroacooking.co.nz. opulent, deep red velvet curtains, nestled behind huge doors. Corner of Beach and Above: Matakauri Lodge & interior. Lake streets, Queenstown. Phone +64 3 442 5360; www.threesixtyrestaurant.co.nz. Opposite page. Above: Marque Hotel exterior. Below: The heritage-listed Novotel Hotel. November/December 2010 W I N E S TAT E 133

109 TASTED79 RECOMMENDEDC A N T E R B U RY & CE NT R A L OTAG ORiesling stood out as the finest white wine from the Terrace Edge Waipara PINOT GRIScountry’s southern regions, yielding enticingly scented, Riesling 2009 HHHHflavour-packed wines in both Otago and Canterbury. Fleshy and crisp, with strong 18 TASTEDThe pinot gris class offered less excitement. Pinot noir lemon and lime flavours, slightly 13 RECOMMENDEDdominated the tasting, accounting for half of all the sweet, finely balanced andentries - and proved a runaway win for Central Otago. youthful. Aromatic, zingy wine, Solid class with plenty of enjoyed by all panellists and fresh, vibrant, clearly varietalPrices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. offering good value at $19. (A) wines, but from two regionsWines available in export markets are shown as Waipara Springs Riesling where pinot gris is grown very(A) Australia, (UK) and (US). 2009 HHHH extensively, the panel found Scented, with fresh, intense, few wines to get excited about.RIESLING Akarua Central Otago citrusy, limey, gently sweet Riesling 2010 HHHH flavours, showing considerable Terrace Edge Waipara16 TASTED Highly scented, very youthful complexity, finely balanced Pinot Gris 2009 HHHH1/211 RECOMMENDED Bannockburn wine. Medium- acidity and good harmony. Fleshy, rich wine in the classic dry style, gingery and limey, $19 (A, UK, US) Alsace mould. Weighty, withStrong class in which both with excellent weight, Auburn Lowburn Riesling concentrated, ripe flavoursregions shone with richly scented, intensity, texture and balance, 2009 HHH1/2 of stone-fruit and spice, goodintensely flavoured wines and a lingering finish. $25 Promising, tightly structured, texture and a medium-dry, softlypossessing good acid spine and Domain Road Vineyard very youthful wine with mouth- seductive finish. $21.50 (A)obvious cellaring potential. Riesling 2009 HHHH wateringly crisp lemon and Fleshy, slightly minerally apple flavours, showing good Maori Point Central Otago Central Otago wine, with vigour and length. $30 Pinot Gris 2009 HHH1/2 strong, lemony, spicy, gently Desert Heart Central Otago Grown at Tarras, this crisp, dry, sweet flavours, showing Riesling 2009 HHH1/2 minerally wine has lemony, excellent vigour, intensity and Dry, minerally style from slightly spicy flavours, showing length. $22 (A, UK) Bannockburn with strong, fresh good freshness, vigour and lemon, apple and lime flavours length. ‘Pinot grigio’ style,Peregrine Central Otago Mt Beautiful Cheviot Hills and firm acidity. Needs time worth cellaring. $23Dry Riesling 2008 HHHHH Riesling 2008 HHHH to evolve. Slightly austere,Minerally, dry style with intense, Fleshy, mouthfilling and ripe, but shows good delicacy and Mt Beautiful Cheviot Hillslemony, slightly spicy flavours, with excellent depth of dryish, length. $23.95 (A) Pinot Gris 2009 HHH1/2showing excellent vigour and grapefruit-like flavours and good Greystone Waipara Powerful (14.5% alc) wine,personality. Tightly structured texture and harmony. Drinking Riesling 2009 HHH1/2 partly barrel-fermented, withand unfolding well. $22 (US) well now. $23.95 (A, UK, US) Crisp and youthful, with strong, ripe flavours, a slightly Mud House Waipara youthful, citrusy, appley, oily texture and a dryish, finely Riesling 2009 HHHH limey flavours, a splash of balanced finish. $23.95 (A) Fleshy, medium-dry style sweetness, and very good with ripe, grapefruit-like balance and depth. $24 Prophet’s Rock flavours, showing some Rockburn Central Otago Central Otago Pinot Gris complexity, and good acid Riesling 2008 HHH 2009 HHH1/2 spine. One judge scored it Light, limey and zesty, with Floral, perfumed wine with five stars. $20 (A, UK, US) a tightly structured palate fresh, ripe pear, peach and lime showing high acidity and a slight flavours, balanced acidity and lack of ripeness and richness, good richness. $30 but very sound. $24 (A, UK, US) Akarua Central Otago Pinot Gris 2009 HHH Crisp and minerally, with a hint of oak and slightly sweet pear, lemon and spice flavours that offer good depth. $25 (A, UK) Black Stilt Pinot Gris 2009 HHH Fresh, light wine from the Waitaki Valley with pear and green apple flavours threaded with crisp acidity. “Vibrant pinot grigio style,” wrote one judge. $27134 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2010

regional tastingGibbston Valley OTHER WHITES CHARDONNAY SAUVIGNONCentral Otago Pinot Gris BLANC2009 HHH 3 TASTED 5 TASTEDFresh, lively, partly barrel- 3 RECOMMENDED 4 RECOMMENDED 7 TASTEDfermented style with good Bellbird Spring Home Small but very solid class, 5 RECOMMENDEDdepth of citrusy, appley, slightly Block White 2009 HHHH showing that chardonnay hasspicy flavours and a dry, well- Highly perfumed Waipara good potential in the country’s Solid class of aromatic, lively,rounded finish. $30 (A) blend of pinot gris, riesling, coolest wine regions. appetisingly crisp wines, showingKaituna Valley gewurztraminer and muscat, that sauvignon blanc can produceSummerhill Vineyard barrel-fermented. Full of Greystone Waipara good wines in Waipara, where itPinot Gris 2009 HHH personality, with rich, gently Chardonnay 2009 HHHH1/2 is extensively planted, and also inMouthfilling Canterbury sweet, peachy, citrusy, spicy Rated highly by all judges, this Central Otago.wine with a slightly creamy flavours, showing excellent fleshy, weighty and complextexture and pear, apple and concentration, complexity and wine has rich stone-fruit flavours, Peregrine Centralpeach flavours showing some charm. $31 a hint of butterscotch, and lovely Otago Sauvignon Blancrichness. $24 texture and depth. $34 2009 HHHHLocharburn Central Otago Whitestone Waipara Peregrine Central Otago Aromatic, clearly herbaceousPinot Gris 2009 HHH Pinot Blanc 2009 HHHH Chardonnay 2009 HHHH style, grown at Gibbston andFresh and lively, partly barrel- Mouthfilling, partly barrel- Mouthfilling and slightly Cromwell. Excellent vigour,fermented style (20%) with a fermented wine with good creamy, with ripe, citrusy, impact and length of fresh,floral bouquet, crisp lemon and weight and concentrated, ripe, appley, spicy flavours showing citrusy, limey, minerallyapple flavours and a slightly citrus fruit and pear flavours. good immediacy. Finely flavours. $22sweet finish. $26 Finely textured, with a long balanced, subtle wine, tightMaori Point Central Otago finish. $24 and lingering. $25 (A, US) Bellbird Spring BlockPinot Gris 2008 HHH Ellero Central Olssens Charcoal Eight Sauvignon BlancMedium-bodied style, still fresh Otago Gewurztraminer Joe Central Otago 2009 HHH1/2and zingy, with good flavour 2009 HHH Chardonnay 2009 HHH1/2 Mouthfilling Waipara wine,depth and a minerally streak. $23 Exotically perfumed, with ripe Fleshy, with ripe, grapefruit- fresh, vibrant and dry, with aOlssens Tom Logan lychee and spice flavours, good like flavours, showing oak- subtle oak influence. RipelyCentral Otago Pinot Gris weight, some ‘funky’ notes and derived complexity, a hint of herbaceous, with very good2009 HHH an off-dry, soft, well-balanced butterscotch and very good vigour, depth and harmony. $31Full-bodied, with gently sweet finish. $27 depth. $30pear, lemon and spice flavours, Kaituna Valley Kaituna Domain Road Vineyardshowing good texture and Vineyard Chardonnay Sauvignon Blanc 2009 HHHsome richness. $28 2007 HHH Light and vibrantly fruity, clearlyRockburn Central Otago Mellow, with grapefruit-like herbaceous style from CentralPinot Gris 2010 HHH flavours, some funky notes and Otago, limey, appley andFull-bodied and fresh, with a a slightly creamy texture. $22 minerally. $22 (A, UK)floral bouquet and a sliver ofsweetness amid its lemony, Mt Beautiful Cheviot Hillsappley, slightly spicy flavours. Sauvignon Blanc 2009 HHH$28 (A, UK, US) Full-bodied North CanterburyThree Miners Central Otago wine with vibrant, tropicalPinot Gris 2009 HHH fruit flavours, showing goodLightly scented, medium-bodied depth, and a crisp, dry finish.style with citrusy, appley flavours $21.95 (A, UK, US)and a dry finish. “Food wine,”noted one judge. $19.50 (A) Whitestone Waipara Sauvignon Blanc 2009 HHH Attractively ripe and rounded style with good flavour depth. Balanced for fresh, easy drinking. $19.95Michael Cooper Ken Moon JUDGESWinestate’s New Zealand A specialist in informationeditor is the author of the technology and intellectual Carol Bunninternationally acclaimed Wine property law with A J Park Raised in Central Otago,Atlas of New Zealand and Law, Ken has in-depth Carol was the highlythe annual Michael Cooper’s tasting experience of acclaimed winemaker atBuyer’s Guide to New Zealand classic European wines Akarua for several yearsWines. In the 2004 New and is a senior national before joining Vinpro,Year Honours, Michael was wine judge. where she made Centralappointed an Officer of the Otago wines for manyNew Zealand Order of Merit growers. Today Carolfor services to wine writing. makes wine for a few selected clients. November/December 2010 W I N E S TAT E 135

C A N T E R B U RY & C E N T R A L OTAG OROSÉ The Aurora Vineyard Bendigo Syrah 2008 HHHH3 TASTED Dark, dense Central Otago red with highly concentrated2 RECOMMENDED blackcurrant, plum, spice and nut flavours. Powerful, rich wine, but also finely structured, with considerable elegance and finesse. $38 (A) PINOT NOIR 56 TASTED 38 RECOMMENDEDDomain Road Vineyard Devil’s BackbonePinot Noir Rosé 2009 HHH Central Otago Pinot NoirPink-hued, with a hint of 2007 HHHHorange. Fresh strawberry and Floral Alexandra red withslight herb flavours, juicy and ripe fruit aromas, vibrant fruitlively, and a smooth, fairly dry characters and a finely balancedfinish. $22 (A, UK) palate. Described by one judge as “sweet and voluptuous, butMaori Point Pinot Noir Akarua Central Otago Kaituna Valley with balanced acidity”. (fromRosé 2008 HHH Pinot Noir 2009 HHHHH Kaituna Vineyard Shaky Bridge) $25Dry style, pink/orange, with Instantly attractive Pinot Noir 2007 HHHHHstrawberry and spice flavours, Bannockburn red, deeply Classy Canterbury red, deeplya touch of complexity, and coloured, with concentrated, coloured, with a ripely scented,some development showing. ripe, cherryish, plummy slightly peppery bouquet,Ready. $19 flavours, showing good, sweet-fruit delights and striking savoury complexity. Rich wine, depth of cherry, plum, spice andOTHER REDS described by one panellist as, nut flavours, rich and supple. “All there! Yum.” $40 (A, UK) Described by one judge as “a3 TASTED pinot noir for cabernet lovers,2 RECOMMENDED just short of over-ripe”. $45Olssens Robert Akarua Reserve Domain Road VineyardThe Bruce 2009 HHHH Central Otago Pinot Noir Central Otago Pinot NoirDeeply coloured and distinctive 2009 HHHH1/2 2008 HHHHCentral Otago blend of Deeply coloured, fleshy, Finely balanced, rich, supplepinotage, cabernet sauvignon generous and savoury. Notably red with concentrated cherryand syrah, with a fresh, ripe style, highly fragrant. and spice flavours. Excellentpeppery bouquet. Vibrantly “Loved the nose - brooding, weight, complexity andfruity, with generous plum, with elegance and finesse,” length. $37 (A, UK)spice and herb flavours, said one judge. $55 (A, UK) Gibbston Valleyshowing good richness. $30 Bald Hills Single Vineyard Central Otago Pinot Noir Pinot Noir 2008 HHHH 2008 HHHH star ratings  Generous Bannockburn red with Finely structured red, grown warm, ripe cherry, plum and at Bendigo. Weighty and well Three-, four- and five-star ratings are signs of spice flavours, showing excellent balanced, with concentrated, excellence in fruit quality and winemaking skill. complexity and depth. Finely cherryish, spicy, nutty flavours, All wines are judged ‘blind’ by wine industry textured, with well-integrated good savoury complexity and professionals and are compared in peer French oak. $46.50 (A, UK) ripe, supple tannins. $45 (A) classes by three judges. Desert Heart Lowburn Ferry Home Block CM Wine is exclusive to Cellarmasters, Mackenzies Run Pinot Pinot Noir 2009 HHHH a major mail-order business. Noir 2009 HHHH Deeply coloured Central CD Cellar door price. Deeply coloured, fragrant Otago red, vibrantly fruity, CDO Cellar door only. Bannockburn red with with generous plum and SO Sold out. concentrated plum, spice and slight herb flavours. Excellent $N/A Price not available at time of printing. slight herb flavours, savoury depth, harmony, structure and and complex. Firmly structured length. $48 (A, UK, US)  Contact information pg 144. wine that needs more time. Has good potential. $42 (A) Recommended cellaring (years).136 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2010

regional tastingMaori Point Central Otago The Aurora One GoodPinot Noir 2008 HHHH Vineyard Bendigo Pinot shot is allFloral, single-vineyard Tarras red Noir 2009 HHHHwith concentrated, cherryish, Richly coloured, firmly structured it takes!spicy flavours and a well- red with good concentrationrounded finish. Finely textured, and complexity. Fragrant, with A bad bottle shot can undo all the good workwith some barnyard notes youthful cherry, spice, herb and that goes into the passionate making andadding complexity. $29 (UK) chocolate flavours, a strong branding of a bottle of wine.Mud House Swan seasoning of nutty oak, andCentral Otago Pinot Noir obvious potential. $39 (A) At Wellcom, we have proven2009 HHHH Wooing Tree expertise to shoot your wine andDeeply coloured Bendigo red Central Otago Pinot Noir deliver premium imagery that willwith good weight and strong, 2009 HHHHripe, youthful flavours of plums Deeply coloured, very suit all applications.and spices. Fruit-packed, with fresh and vibrant, single-supple tannins. $29 (A, UK, US) vineyard Cromwell red with Our highly skilled and experiencedPeregrine Central Otago concentrated, ripe flavours of photographers and graphicPinot Noir 2008 HHHH cherries, plums and herbs andRefined wine, fresh, vibrantly a strong new oak influence. artists use only state-of-the-artfruity and flowing, with cherry, Flows well. $43 digital technology to ensure thatplum, herb and spice flavours Bannock Braeshowing good complexity. Barrel Selection Pinot your wines get our best shot.Savoury and silky-textured. $39 Noir 2008 HHH1/2Pisa Range Black Concentrated and savoury Call us to ensure that thePoplar Block Pinot Noir Bannockburn red, ruby-hued, combined efforts of2007 HHHH with a seasoning of spicy FrenchGenerous, deeply coloured oak. Two judges noted slightly your team, from viticulturistsred with good weight and “overripe” notes. $44.50 to winemakers to marketersfruit sweetness, fresh acidity, Lowburn Ferryand a finely textured, long Central Otago Pinot Noir are not shot to pieces byfinish. Maturing gracefully. 2008 HHH1/2 below average imagery.$48 (A, UK, US) Flowing, full-coloured red As we say, all it takes isRockburn Central Otago with cherry, plum and herbPinot Noir 2009 HHHH flavours, showing some one top shot!Ruby-hued, sweet-fruited, savoury complexity. Medium- So shoot us an email,savoury and smooth, this ripely bodied style, finely crafted. or dial in our phone number.flavoured red has excellent $41 (A, UK, US)depth and complexity. Shows Lowburn Ferry At Wellcom we alsogood weight and texture, but Central Otago Pinot Noir specialise in the productionis still very youthful; open mid- 2007 HHH1/22011+. $45 (A) Dark, still-youthful red, fragrant, of a wide range ofRockburn Central Otago with concentrated, ripe, berryish communication andPinot Noir 2008 HHHH flavours and a hint of herbs. promotional mediaSweet-fruited red with a Powerful and weighty, with a including graphic design,fragrant bouquet of cherries, firmly structured finish. $41 (A) catalogues, banners,spices and herbs. Finely Shaky Bridge annual reports, posters,textured, savoury palate, Central Otago Pinot Noir newsletters, brochures,showing excellent depth, and a 2009 HHH1/2 TVC production andvelvety finish. $45 (A, UK, US) Slightly herbal style with veryRua Central Otago Pinot good depth of flavour, cherryish corporate videos.Noir 2009 HHHH and spicy. Full-coloured, with aFrom Akarua, this attractively subtle seasoning of oak. $35.scented wine offers great Three Minersvalue. Fresh and finely Central Otago Pinot Noirbalanced, with a subtle 2008 HHH1/2seasoning of oak, it is ripely Floral, vibrantly fruity, slightlyflavoured, with good harmony herbal and earthy, with goodand instant appeal. $25 (A, UK) flavour depth and some savoury complexity. $27 (A) 43 Fullarton Road, Kent Town SA. 5067 phone +61 8 8362 1077 fax +61 8 8363 2488 [email protected] November/December 2010 W I N E S TAT E 137

C A N T E R B U RY & C E N T R A L OTAG O© Tourism New Zealand. Weaver Estate Mt Rosa Central Otago Central Otago Pinot Noir Pinot Noir 2009 HHH 2009 HHH1/2 Showing full, slightly developed Tightly structured, with good colour, this is a green-edged, colour depth and strong plum, herbal wine but also offers cherry and spice flavours, plenty of flavour. $31 (A, UK, US) showing considerable complexity. Olssens Jackson Barry Worth cellaring. $34.95 Central Otago Pinot Noir Bannock Brae Goldfields 2009 HHH Pinot Noir 2008 HHH This deeply coloured Full-bodied Bannockburn red Bannockburn red impressed with considerable complexity, one judge as being rich, ripe, but two judges noted some savoury and complex, but slightly green notes. $29.50 another found it “a bit sweet Desert Heart Mackenzies and cloying”. $45 Run Central Otago Pinot Olssens Jackson Barry Noir 2008 HHH Central Otago Pinot Noir Concentrated Bannockburn 2008 HHH red with some funky notes, Silky Bannockburn red with a good flavour depth and a firm sweet entry and rich flavours, backbone of tannin. $42 (A) with a hint of licorice, but also Elephant Hill some confected notes. $45 Central Otago Pinot Noir Prophet’s Rock 2009 HHH Central Otago Pinot Noir Mouthfilling red, grown at 2007 HHH Alexandra, with some slightly Full, slightly developed colour. underripe notes but also very Weighty, with ripe fruit aromas, good flavour depth. $29 (A, UK) strong cherry and spice flavours Grasshopper Rock Central and a firm tannin grip. $45 Otago Pinot Noir 2009 HHH Waipara Springs Waipara Single-vineyard Alexandra Pinot Noir 2009 HHH red, full-coloured, with fresh, Ruby-hued, mouthfilling wine plummy, spicy, green-edged with moderately ripe flavours of flavours, and smoky oak adding cherries, plums and spices and complexity. $30 (A, UK) gentle tannins. Easy-drinking Hawkshead First Vines style. $22 (A, UK, US) Pinot Noir 2008 HHH Wooing Tree Central Spicy, vibrant, slightly herbal Otago Beetle Juice Pinot red, grown at Gibbston. Some Noir 2009 HHH barnyard characters, noted by Sturdy, single-vineyard two judges, fresh acidity and Cromwell red with good colour good flavour depth. $43 and depth of plum, spice and Judge Rock Central Otago slight herb flavours. $28 Pinot Noir 2009 HHH Fresh, ruby-hued Alexandra red SWEET WHITES with cherry and slight tamarillo flavours, showing some 1 TASTED savoury complexity. Already 1 RECOMMENDED enjoyable. $38 Judge Rock Central Otago The Aurora Vineyard Late Venus Pinot Noir 2009 HHH Harvest Riesling 2008 Ruby-hued Alexandra red, (375ml) HHH1/2 juicy and spicy, with firm Attractively fresh, vibrant Central tannins. One judge praised its Otago wine with lemony, spicy, “refinement and texture”, but gently sweet flavours. Picked all three panelists found some in early May, “due to a lack of slightly under-ripe notes. $25 space in the fermenters for normal riesling”. $17 (A) Mondillo Central Otago Pinot Noir 2009 HHH Floral, dense wine, deeply coloured, with good weight, concentration and texture and a slightly herbal bouquet. $41 © Tourism New Zealand.138 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2010

PLEASE SEND ME MAGAZINE FOR:AUSTRALIA & NEW take out a subscription and save! Australia Subscribe to Winestate Magazine - Australia's oldest and most ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE 7 issues (1yr) $A60 (includes $5.45 GST) SAVE $10.70 respected wine publication for 12 months (that’s 7 issues including 14 issues (2yrs) $A110 (includes $10 GST) SAVE $31.40 the Annual), and receive 2 bottles Price include GST, postage and handling. delivered to your door of the brand new release Bird in Hand New Zealand binders Adelaide Hills 2010 Sparkling Price includes Airmail. Australian residents only Pinot Noir FREE - That’s amazing Please mark  one option: Your attractive binder easily value for only $60!! holds 7 issues - handy for 7 issues (1 year) $A69 quick reference! Hurry - this offer is 14 issues (2 years) $A125 limited to the first 70 Please mark  one option: new subscribers only! Asia, Pacific 1 Binder $A19.80 Price includes Airmail. Please mark : To subscribe please email 2 Binders $A33 [email protected] or phone 7 issues (1 year) $A99 08 8357 9277 with your credit card details and delivery address. Elsewhere 3 Binders $A49.50 Please quote “Bird in Hand Price includes Airmail. Please mark : (includes GST) subscription offer”. 7 issues (1 year) $A113 Prices available for A sparkling rose wine with overseas on application. delightful strawberry and cherry Home WineMaster aromas accompanied by a floral Price includes Airmail. Please mark : lift. Clean, vibrant strawberry flavours are enhanced by the very Complete Software Programme V10 $A79 fine, persistent bead. The fruit sweetness is elegantly balanced Upgrade to V10 $A29 by the crisp acid and long, clean finish. To be enjoyed chilled Subscription Update* (1 year) V10 $A29 and whilst young. The perfect pre-dinner or celebratory wine. Subscription Update* (2 years) V10 $A49 *Requires software programme. Conditions: Offer is limited to the first 70 new subscribers in Australia only. Recipient must Mr / Mrs / Miss be over 18 years of age. Address Suburb State Country Post Code Phone ( ) E-mail Your subscription will start from the next issue. I enclose my cheque for $ payable to WINESTATE Magazine or charge my: Mastercard Visa Name on card: Signature Expires / Send to: 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061 Fax to: 08 8357 9212 Gift SubScriPtioN Recipient’s Name Address Suburb State Country Post Code Phone ( ) Please send a gift card to Me Recipient Also fill in your details in the section above.

MICHAEL COOPERThe first reds from the challenging 2009 season in Allan Scott Allan ScottCentral Otago are now on the shelves - and looking Hounds Marlborough Wallops Marlboroughgood. Other highlights of the tasting were some notably Pinot Noir 2009 Chardonnay 2009aromatic, punchy and racy Marlborough sauvignon Mouthfilling, sweet-fruited, Richly fragrant, full-bodiedblancs from 2010, while the Trinity Hill 2010 reveals rich and supple single-vineyard style with a strong presence.just how rewarding - and bargain-priced - sauvignon wine. Deeply coloured, with Generous, single-vineyardblanc from the Hawke’s Bay region can be. concentrated cherry and plum wine, fully barrel-fermented, it flavours, seasoned with quality has concentrated, ripe, stone- French oak. Elegant and finely fruit flavours, with buttery, poised, it offers excellent drinking toasty notes adding complexity, from mid-2011+ $35 (A, UK) and a rich finish. Drink now or cellar. $30 (A, UK)Prices shown are approximate New Zealand retail. Forrest The ValleysWines available in export markets are shown as Awatere Marlborough(A) Australia, (UK) and (US). Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Classic Awatere Valley style - racy, with intense, ‘tomato stalk’ aromas leading into a full-bodied palate with incisive, ripely herbaceous flavours, crisp, tangy and lingering. $22Akarua Reserve Central Pegasus Bay Bel Canto Brodie Estate Julicher 99Otago Pinot Noir 2009 Dry Riesling 2009 Pinot Noir 2008 Rows MartinboroughPreviously labeled ‘Cadence’, Grown at Waipara, this Scented, savoury and supple Pinot Noir 2009this deeply coloured, single- powerful (14% alc), rich wine Martinborough red with Great-value wine, alreadyvineyard red is beautifully ripe has intense, citrusy flavours. excellent depth of cherryish, delicious. Robust and full-and rich, with substantial body, Lemon-scented, complex, gently spicy flavours. Stylish coloured, very generous,highly concentrated cherry, plum slightly spicy and minerally, wine with sweet-fruit delights, warm and savoury, withand spice flavours, and good with good acid spine and a good complexity and obvious ripe, supple tannins andbackbone. Very sweet-fruited, it lasting, dry finish. Shows great potential. $48 (A) excellent flavour richness andshould blossom with cellaring; individuality and poise; open Allan Scott Moorlands complexity. $29.95 (A)open 2012+ $55 (A, UK) 2012+ $31.95 Marlborough Riesling 2009 From 30-year-old vines. Tank-Thornbury Marlborough ½ fermented and matured in oldSauvignon Blanc 2010 barrels, rich and finely poised,Striking in its infancy. Intensely Akarua Central Otago with concentrated grapefruitaromatic, weighty, sweet-fruited Pinot Noir 2009 and slight honey flavours, aand dry, with a lovely array Previously labelled ‘The sliver of sweetness, a veryof fresh, pure fruit flavours - Gullies’, this single-vineyard subtle seasoning of oak andpassionfruit, lime and grapefruit Bannockburn red is highly good acid spine. Drink now or- and a sustained, slightly refined. Full-coloured, floral cellar. $27 (UK)minerally, racy finish. $21 and supple, with vibrant, well-ripened plum and cherry flavours, finely integrated oak, fresh but not high acidity, and lovely harmony. $40 (A, UK)140 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2010

recent releasesGrove Mill Grand Reserve  Esk Valley Merlot Soho Carter WaihekeSeventeen Valley Malbec Rosé 2010 Island Chardonnay 2009Vineyard Marlborough Akarua Central Otago Hawke’s Bay blend (just 6% Delicious from the start,Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Riesling 2010 malbec) with attractive, bright this creamy-textured wineTight, elegant and still very From young vines at pink colour and fresh, ripe, has strong stone-fruit andfresh and youthful, this partly Bannockburn, this single- berryish scents. Fleshy, with nut flavours, showing goodbarrel-fermented style has vineyard wine is medium- smooth, berryish, plummy, complexity. Very ripe andconcentrated, ripe, melon/ bodied, with very fresh, slightly spicy flavours, lively rounded style, with excellentlime flavours, a subtle twist of harmonious, gently sweet and refreshing. $24 (UK) depth and harmony. $38 (A)oak and a lingering, crisp, dry flavours. Citrusy, appley and Grove Mill Grand Reserve Tatty Bogler Otago Pinotfinish. $26 (A, UK) slightly spicy, it shows excellent Seventeen Valley Noir Rosé 2010Mud House Marlborough delicacy and depth. $25 Vineyard Marlborough Fresh and floral, withSauvignon Blanc 2010 Allan Scott Moorlands Pinot Noir 2009 raspberryish scents and anVery stylish for such a large- Marlborough Sauvignon Built to last, a vibrantly fruity inviting, pink/red hue. Deliciouslyvolume wine. Garden-fresh, Blanc 2009 red, full-coloured, with a floral, fresh wine with vibrant, red berrynettley aromas lead into a Matured in old oak barrels, berryish fragrance. and plum flavours, showingcrisp, vibrantly fruity, finely this tightly structured, single- Strong cherry, plum and spice good immediacy, and a smoothpoised palate with incisive vineyard wine is mouthfilling, flavours, ripe and supple, finish. $30but not aggressive flavours, a with fresh, ripe, tropical fruit showing excellent depth and Thornbury Gimblettherbal undercurrent and a dry, flavours and leesy, nutty notes harmony. $43 (A, UK) Gravels Merlot 2009lingering finish. $22 (A, UK, US) adding complexity. Crisp, dry Pegasus Bay Extremely youthful Hawke’sSeresin Chardonnay and youthful and well worth Chardonnay 2008 Bay red (8% malbec, 2%Reserve 2008 cellaring. $27 (A, UK) Still very youthful, this Waipara cabernet sauvignon) fresh andFragrant, complex bouquet. Tight Allan Scott wine is tightly structured, with deeply coloured. Quite savouryand elegant, with lovely fruit Omaka Marlborough mouthfilling body, strong, vibrant, and Bordeaux-like, it has rich,flavours of grapefruit and peach Pinot Gris 2009 grapefruit-like flavours, woven blackcurrant flavours to theshining through, finely integrated Alsace-style, single-vineyard with fresh acidity, and mealy, fore, with plum, spice and slightoak (25% new) and a long finish. wine, barrel-aged. Mouthfilling, nutty notes adding complexity. coffee notes adding complexity.Still unfolding. $39 (A, UK, US) with off-dry stone-fruit, Open mid-2011+ $35.95 Open mid-2011+ $21The Doctors’ Marlborough pear and spice flavours, Renato Nelson Villa Maria Private BinRiesling 2010 showing very good delicacy, Chardonnay 2009 Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2008From Forrest, this wine complexity and depth, and a Estate-grown at Kina and Full-flavoured, distinctly spicytypically flourishes with bottle slightly creamy texture. Worth barrel-fermented, this single- blend of Dartmoor Valley (60%)age. Deliciously light and cellaring. $29 vineyard wine has fresh, and Gimblett Gravels fruit,lively, it is a very low alcohol Bouldevines Marlborough strong, citrusy flavours, vibrant including 2% viognier. Peppery(8.5%), medium-sweet style Pinot Noir 2009 and crisp, with buttery, toasty bouquet with good complexity.with fresh, strong lemon and This is a big style of pinot noir - notes adding complexity and Mouthfilling and generouslime flavours, showing lovely powerful and deeply coloured, richness. Up-front style; drink palate, with blackcurrant, plumdelicacy and poise. $22 with concentrated cherry, now or cellar. $24 and spice flavours, fresh, ripeTrinity Hill Hawke’s Bay plum, herb and spice flavours. Scott Base Central Otago and rounded. $26 (UK)Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Still very youthful, it is savoury, Riesling 2009Great value. Fresh and ripely with undeniable power and From mature vines at Wither Hills Marlboroughscented, it offers an array of good potential; open 2012. $30 Cromwell, this single-vineyard Pinot Gris 2010fruit flavours at the ripe end Esk Valley Gimblett wine is a medium-bodied style Scented and mouthfilling,of the spectrum, enlivened by Gravels Merlot Cabernet with good sugar/acid balance, very finely poised wine withfresh acidity. Sweet-fruited, Sauvignon/Malbec 2009 a crisp, minerally streak and strong, ripe pear, spice andslightly minerally and long, Deeply coloured Hawke’s strong, ripe, citrusy aromas and peach flavours, a sliver ofwith excellent poise, depth Bay blend, mouthfilling, fresh flavours. $26 sweetness, and excellentand drive. $19 and flowing, with strong Seresin Marlborough harmony and richness. Great blackcurrant and plum flavours, Chardonnay 2008 value at $20 (A, UK) hints of coffee and oak, and Complex style, full-bodied and gentle tannins. Should mature concentrated, with strong, well. $24 (UK) ripe, stone-fruit flavours, a hint of butterscotch, and a slightly honeyed richness. Drinking well now. $29 (A, UK, US) November/December 2010 W I N E S TAT E 141

MICHAEL COOPERWoollaston Nelson Awaroa Reserve Coney Ragtime Rua Central OtagoRiesling 2009 Chardonnay 2009 Riesling 2009 Pinot Noir 2009Appetisingly fresh and crisp, Grown in Hawke’s Bay, this Tight, youthful, full-bodied From Akarua, this drink-youngwith strong, slightly sweet robust, slightly oaky wine Martinborough wine with style is fresh and generous, withcitrus fruit, passionfruit (handled in mostly new barrels) strong, citrusy, slightly honeyed cherry and plum flavours showingand lime flavours, showing offers ripe, citrusy, peachy, flavours. Gently sweet style very good depth, and a touch ofexcellent delicacy and purity, slightly buttery flavours, with hints of passionfruit and spicy, savoury complexity. Goodand obvious cellaring potential. showing good richness. $28 marmalade and good acid value. $25 (A, UK)$19 (A, UK, US) spine. $20 (A) Scott Base Central Otago Barking Hedge Julicher Martinborough Chardonnay 2009½ Marlborough Pinot Gris 2009 Single-vineyard Cromwell wine, Pinot Noir 2007 Easy-drinking style, partly barrel- full-bodied, with strong, lemonyAkarua Central Otago From Crighton Estate, a fermented, with pale pink colour. flavours, slightly buttery andPinot Gris 2009 generous style, full-coloured, Peachy and slightly spicy, with crisp. Fleshy and youthful, it’sPale, youthful wine, moderately with strong, ripe, plummy, a hint of strawberries, some worth cellaring. (from Allanconcentrated, with mouthfilling spicy flavours, considerable complexity and a smooth, dryish Scott) $30body and vibrant apple, pear, complexity and a fairly firm finish. $19.95 (A) Scott Base Central Otagolychee and spice flavours. Fresh, finish. $29.95 (A, UK, US) Konrad Marlborough Pinot Noir 2009smooth, and finely balanced for Pinot Noir 2009 From a vineyard overlookingeasy drinking. $25 (A, UK) Barking Hedge Floral and mouthfilling, in a Cromwell, a moderately richAlexander Dusty Marlborough Sauvignon sturdy, sweet-fruited style with wine, ruby-hued, with fresh,Road Martinborough Blanc 2009 ripe plum and spice flavours, vibrant, cherry and plumPinot Noir 2009 Mouthfilling and crisp, with showing some savoury flavours, showing considerableGood value, single-vineyard strong gooseberry/lime flavours complexity. $29 (A, US) complexity. $35 (A, UK)red with drink-young appeal. and good acid spine. Fresh Konrad Marlborough Sea Level AwatereMouthfilling and supple, with and lively wine from Crighton Riesling 2009 Sauvignon Blanc 2010very good depth of cherry and Estate, for drinking now-2011. Estate-grown in the Waihopai Single-vineyard wine,plum flavours, fresh, ripe and $17.95 (A, UK, US) Valley. Finely balanced, with ripely scented, with vibrantrounded. $24 Burnt Spur Martinborough fresh, vibrant, slightly sweet melon and green capsicumAlexander Martinborough Pinot Noir 2009 flavours, lemony, appley and flavours, showing very goodMerlot 2009 Single-vineyard red, sturdy and limey, and very good harmony freshness, delicacy andFull-bodied, vibrant red offering savoury, with strong plum, and depth. $18 (A) depth. Finely balanced forvery good depth of plummy spice, herb and olive flavours, Oak Hill Matakana easy drinking. $18 (UK)flavour, fresh and smooth, with considerable complexity and Chardonnay 2009 Sileni Cellar Selectiona subtle seasoning of oak and balanced tannins. Drink now or Fleshy, barrel-fermented Marlborough Sauvignongentle tannins. Already drinking cellar. $44 (A, UK) style with powerful, nutty oak Blanc 2010well. $25 influence. Very good depth of Punchy and crisp, medium-Allan Scott Marlborough ripe, stone-fruit flavours and a bodied style with fresh, strongPinot Noir 2009 well-rounded texture, but needs passionfruit and lime flavoursRuby-hued, floral, fruity and time; open mid-2011.+ $24 and a smooth, finely balancedsupple. Cherryish, plummy River Farm Godfrey finish. Lots of drink-youngand slightly spicy, with some Road Marlborough appeal. $20 (A, UK)savoury complexity; very Pinot Noir 2009 Spy Valley Envoyenjoyable, drink-young style. Mouthfilling, scented and supple, Marlborough Sauvignon$25 (A, UK, US) with moderately concentrated Blanc 2009Allan Scott Marlborough cherry/plum flavours and some Barrel-fermented style, tight,Riesling 2009 nutty complexity. Already quite dry and flinty, with ripe, non-Mouthfilling, with very good open and expressive; drink now- herbaceous flavours of peach anddepth of citrusy, grapefruit-like 2011. $29 (A, UK) grapefruit, subtle oak and a steelyflavours and a minerally streak. Riverby Estate Marlborough finish. Austere in its youth, butForward style, drinking well from Pinot Gris 2009 worth cellaring. $30 (A)now onwards. $18 (A, UK, US) Fleshy and soft, with Trinity Hill Hawke’s Bay mouthfilling body and a gentle Rosé 2010 splash of sweetness amid its Bright pink, attractively scented ripe peach, pear and spice blend, based predominantly on flavours, which show very cabernet franc and pinot noir. good depth. $20 (A, US) Fresh, berryish and lively, with Riverby Estate Sali’s very good depth and vivacity Block Marlborough and a smooth, dryish finish. $19 Riesling 2009 Easy-drinking, medium style with satisfying depth of fresh, lively lemon, apple and lime flavours, crisp acidity and good harmony. Drink now or cellar. $20 (A, US)142 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2010

Two Rivers Marlborough Mount Fishtail Marlborough recent releasesPinot Noir 2009 Pinot Noir 2009Grown at high altitude in the Floral, fruity, ripe and supple. A RARE &Awatere Valley, this graceful, Ruby-hued, second-tier red INTRIGUINGruby-hued, medium-bodied red from Konrad, plummy, berryish SPECIEShas fresh, supple cherry and and slightly spicy, with a touchplum flavours, showing very of savoury complexity and Ultra premium single-vineyard winesgood vibrancy, harmony and drink-young charm. $20 (A, UK) from Omaka Valley, Marlboroughdrinkability. $29 Murrays Road Marlborough Bird Sauvignon BlancVilla Maria Private Bin Pinot Noir 2008 Explosive, Zesty, IntenseEast Coast Pinot Gris 2010 Showing some development, Bird Pinot GrisRegional blend (nearly half this ruby-hued, fruity red has Versatile, Delicate, SeductiveGisborne). Mouthfilling body, plum, spice and slight herb Bird Rieslingwith ripe, peachy, gently flavours, a touch of complexity Exciting, Vibrant, Alluringspicy flavours, showing very and a firm finish. $28 Bird Gewurztraminergood depth, and a dryish Renato Nelson Opulent, Exotic, Scentedfinish. $20 (A, UK, US) Pinot Noir 2009 Bird Big Barrel Pinot NoirVilla Maria Private Bin From grapes grown at KinaRosé 2010 and on the Waimea Plains, this Rich, Voluptuous, The Silken TemptressPale pink blend of grapes ruby-hued red shows goodgrown in Gisborne, Hawke’s but not great depth of vibrant Available exclusively in Or in New South Wales,Bay and Marlborough. Crisp cherry/plum flavours, threaded New Zealand through Australia throughand dryish, with refreshing with fresh acidity, and some Ballande New Zealand Waratah Winesstrawberry, spice and slight leafy notes. $27 ph. 09 638 9921 ph. 02 4739 8915peach flavours, showing very Riverby Estate Marlborough or email: or email:good depth. $20 (UK) Pinot Noir 2009 [email protected] [email protected] Nelson Fruity and supple, in a ruby-Pinot Gris 2009 hued, moderately rich style Steve Bird Winery & Vineyards LtdFresh, off-dry style with with cherry and slight herb +64 (0)7 927 2377 www.birdwines.comripe, stone-fruit flavours flavours, showing someand a hint of spices. Tightly savoury complexity. Alreadystructured, with balanced enjoyable. $28 (A US)acidity and very good delicacy Riverby Estateand depth. $20 (A, UK, US) Marlborough Riesling 2009Woollaston Nelson Dry style with fresh lemon, appleSauvignon Blanc 2010 and lime flavours, crisp andPunchy, vibrantly fruity and minerally. Tight, youthful winecrisp, with fresh, tight, ripely that should reward cellaring;herbaceous flavours and good, open mid-2011+. $20 (A, US)youthful impact. $18 (A, UK, US) Riverby Estate Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2009 Mouthfilling, ripe and rounded,Coney Pizzicato with good depth of tropical fruitPinot Noir 2009 flavours. Fleshy, with moderateFruity, supple Martinborough acidity and easy-drinkingred with some fruit sweetness appeal. $19 (A, US)and depth, and good varietal Sileni Cellarcharacter, but also fairly light and Selection Hawke’s Bayforward. Drink young. $30 (A, UK) Pinot Gris 2010Judge Rock Central Otago Medium-bodied, with fresh,St Laurent 2009 pear and spice aromas andNew Zealand’s first commercial flavours and a dryish finish.release of St Laurent, a varietal Attractive young, withwidely grown in Austria. Gutsy, good varietal character andfull-coloured red, fresh and harmony. $20 (A, UK)fruity, berryish and slightly Sileni Cellarrustic, with firm tannins. $40 Selection Hawke’s BayKonrad Marlborough Pinot Noir 2010Gewurztraminer 2009 Buoyantly fruity, drink-youngFrom first-crop vines in the charmer. Ruby-hued, withWaihopai Valley. Mouthfilling ripe, cherryish, strawberryishand ripe, with slightly sweet, flavours, and gentle aciditycitrusy, spicy flavours and a and tannins giving a soft, easyhint of ginger. $19 finish. $20 (UK, US) November/December 2010 W I N E S TAT E 143

contact detailsLIMESTONE COAST Greedy Sheep Morris of Rutherglen/Orlando Wines Bacardi LionAldi Stores Ph: (08) 9755 7428 Ph: (02) 6026 7303 (Winery) Ph: (02) 8249 0326Ph: (03) 8369 3119 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: [email protected] Web: www.greedysheep.com.au Web: www.morriswine.com Web: www.bacardilion.com.auWeb: www.aldi.com.au Koonara Wines Pty Ltd Sam Miranda King Valley Ballast Stone Estate WinesBerton Vineyards Ph: (08) 8737 3222 Ph: (03) 5727 3888 Ph: (08) 8555 4215Ph: 0418 742 749 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: [email protected] Web: www.koonara.com Web: www.sammiranda.com.au Web: www.ballaststone.com.auWeb: www.bertonvineyards.com.au Leconfield Wines Pty Ltd/Richard Hamilton Bleasdale VineyardsDi Giorgio Family Wines Ph: (08) 8323 8830 PINOT NOIR Ph: (08) 8537 3001Ph: (08) 8736 3222 E-mail: [email protected] Akarua E-mail: [email protected]: [email protected] Web: www.leconfieldwines.com Ph: +64 3 445 0897 Web: www.bleasdale.com.auWeb: www.digiorgio.com.au Logan Wines E-mail: [email protected] Graeme Miller WinesFarmer’s Leap Ph: (02) 6373 1333 Web: www.akarua.com Ph: (03) 5965 2396Ph: (08) 8765 6007 E-mail: [email protected] Craggy Range Vineyards Ltd E-mail: [email protected]: [email protected] Web: www.loganwines.com.au Ph: +64 6 833 7785 Web: www.graememillerwines.com.auWeb: www.farmersleap.com Punt Road Wines E-mail: [email protected] Grant BurgeJacob’s Creek/Orlando Wines Ph: (03) 9739 0666 Web: www.craggyrange.com Ph: (08) 8563 7452Ph: (08) 8521 3000 (Visitor Centre) E-mail: [email protected] Gibbston Highgate Estate E-mail: [email protected]: [email protected] Web: www.puntroadwines.com.au Ph: +64 3 477 0300 Web: www.grantburgewines.com.auWeb: www.jacobscreek.com Sedona Estate E-mail: [email protected] Jacob’s Creek/Orlando WinesKaratta Wines/Griffin Pastoral Co. Ph: (03) 9730 2883 Web: www.gibbstonhighgate.co.nz Ph: (08) 8521 3000 (Visitor Centre)Ph: (08) 8215 0250 E-mail: [email protected] Kilbowie Wines E-mail: [email protected]: [email protected] Web: wwwsedonaestate.com.au Ph: (03) 6239 6666 Web: www.jacobscreek.comWeb: www.karattawines.com.au Seppeltsfield E-mail: [email protected] Leconfield Wines Pty Ltd/Richard HamiltonKatnook Estate/Wingara Wine Group Ph: (08) 8568 6237 Web: www.kilbowie.com.au Ph: (08) 8323 8830Ph: (03) 9682 5000 E-mail: [email protected] Margrain Vineyard E-mail: [email protected]: [email protected] Web: www.seppeltsfield.com.au Ph: +64 6 306 6293 Web: www.leconfieldwines.comWeb: www.katnookestate.com.au Serafino Wines E-mail: [email protected] Luxury Beverage Group Pty LtdKoonara Wines Pty Ltd Ph: (08) 8323 0157 Web: www.margrainvineyard.co.nz Ph: 0406 422 366Ph: (08) 8737 3222 E-mail: [email protected] Martinborough Vineyard E-mail: mark.dorrell@E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.serafinowines.com.au Ph: +64 6 306 9955 luxurybeverages.com.auWeb: www.koonara.com Sirromet Wines E-mail: winery@ Web: www.luxurybeverages.com.auLeconfield Wines Pty Ltd/Richard Hamilton Ph: (07) 3822 0648 martinborough-vineyard.co.nz MajellaPh: (08) 8323 8830 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.martinborough-vineyard.co.nz Ph: (08) 8736 3055E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.sirromet.com Maude Winery E-mail: [email protected]: www.leconfieldwines.com Swings & Roundabouts Ph: +64 21 363 123 Web: www.majellawines.com.auMajella Ph: (08) 9756 6735 E-mail: [email protected] Moet Hennessy AustraliaPh: (08) 8736 3055 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.maudewines.com Ph: (02) 8344 9905E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.swings.com.au Moorilla Estate E-mail: [email protected]: www.majellawines.com.au Sylvan Springs Estates Ph: (03) 6277 9960 Web: www.moet-hennessy.com.auMalone Wines Ph: (08) 8383 0500 E-mail: [email protected] Mount William WineryPh: (08) 8764 6075 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.moorilla.com.au Ph: (03) 5429 1595E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.sylvansprings.com.au Mount Riley Wines Ltd E-mail: [email protected]: www.malonewines.com.au Taylors Wines Pty Ltd Ph: +64 3 577 9900 Web: www.mtwilliamwinery.com.auRaidis Estate Ph: (08) 8849 1151 E-mail: [email protected] No. 1 Family EstatePh: 0417 834 195 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.mountriley.co.nz Ph: +64 3 572 9876E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.taylorswines.com.au Nazaaray Estate Winery E-mail: [email protected]: www.raidis.com.au The Wine Stop Sales & Distribution Ph: (03) 5989 0126 Web: www.no1familyestate.co.nzTidswell Wines Ph: 0438 737 587 E-mail: [email protected] Pernod Ricard AustraliaPh: (08) 8363 5800 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.nazaaray.com.au Ph: (08) 8131 2559E-mail: [email protected] Vinous Australis Pty Ltd Riverby Estate E-mail: [email protected]: www.tidswellwines.com.au Ph: 0409 963 223 Ph: +64 2 1172 4981 Web: www.pernod-ricard-pacific.comWangolina Station E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Peter Lehmann Wines LimitedPh: (08) 8768 6187 Web: www.vinau.com Web: www.riverbyestate.com Ph: (08) 8563 2500E-mail: [email protected] Warburn Estate Robert Oatley Vineyards Pty Ltd E-mail: malcolm.stopp@Web: www.wangolina.com.au Ph: (02) 6963 8300 Ph: (02) 9433 3223 peterlehmannwines.com E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.peterlehmannwines.com.auNEW RELEASES Web: www.warburnestate.com.au Web: www.robertoatley.com.auAldi Stores Winter Creek Wines Somerbury Estates/Jones Road SUMMER BEERSPh: (03) 8369 3119 Ph: (08) 8524 6382 Ph: (03) 5978 8080 Coopers BreweryE-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 8440 1800Web: www.aldi.com.au Web: www.wintercreekwine.com.au Web: www.jonesroad.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Saints Estate/Peter F Brown Vineyards Wise Wine Tohu Wines Web: www.coopers.com.auPh: (02) 6035 2217 Ph: (08) 9756 8627 Ph: +64 3 520 9230 De Bortoli WineryE-mail: customerservice@ E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (02) 6966 0100allsaintswine.com.au Web: www.wisewine.com.au Web: www.tohuwines.co.nz E-mail: [email protected]: www.allsaintswine.com.au Valli Vineyards Web: www.debortoli.com.auAnvers Wines NORTH EAST VICTORIA Ph: +64 3 442 6778 Gage Roads BrewingPh: (08) 8323 9603 Buller Wines E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 9331 2300E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (03) 5452 1825 Web: www.valliwine.com E-mail: [email protected]: www.anvers.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Vavasour Wines Ltd Web: www.gageroads.com.auBen Potts Wines/Vinolentus P/L Web: www.buller.com.au Ph: +64 9 373 3090 Grand Ridge BreweryPh: (08) 8537 3029 Chrismont E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (03) 9706 2222E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (03) 5729 8220 Web: www.vavasour.com; E-mail: [email protected]: www.benpottswines.com.au E-mail: [email protected] www.cliffordbay.co.nz Web: www.grand-ridge.com.auBimbadgen Estate Web: www.chrismont.com.au Yealands Estate Wines Ltd McLaren Vale Beer CompanyPh: (02) 4998 4600 De Bortoli Winery Ph: +64 3 575 7618 Ph: (08) 8219 9910E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (02) 6966 0100 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: www.bimbadgen.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.yealands.co.nz Web: www.mvbeer.comCredaro Family Estate Web: www.debortoli.com.au The Spanish AcquisitionPh: (08) 9755 1111 Eaglerange Estate Wines CHAMPAGNE & SPARKLING Ph: (03) 9495 6373E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (03) 5752 2518 Alepat Taylor E-mail: [email protected]: www.beachheadwines.com.au E-mail: [email protected] Ph: (03) 9487 2599 Web: www.thespanishacquisition.com E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.alepat.com.au144 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2010

contact detailsTOP 40 Seppeltsfield was now was nowAldi Stores Ph: (08) 8568 6237Ph: (03) 8369 3119 E-mail: [email protected] $260 $150 $440 $250E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.seppeltsfield.com.auWeb: www.aldi.com.au Taylors Wines Pty Ltd was now was nowAuldstone Cellars Ph: (08) 8849 1151Ph: (03) 5766 2237 E-mail: [email protected] $320$180 $500$270E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.taylorswines.com.auWeb: www.auldstone.com.au Vinous Australis Pty Ltd was now was nowBalgownie Estate Ph: 0409 963 223Ph: (03) 5449 6222 E-mail: [email protected] $276$150 $320$180E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.vinau.comWeb: www.balgownieestate.com Warburn Estate The Spaghetti BowlBeelgara Estate Ph: (02) 6963 8300Ph: (02) 6966 0208 E-mail: [email protected] This is Margaret River’s best and longest establishedE-mail: [email protected] Web: www.warburnestate.com.au licensed restaurant. The Spaghetti Bowl is the place whereWeb: www.beelgaraestate.com.au Wehl’s Mount Benson Vineyards the locals love to eat!Berton Vineyards Ph: (08) 8768 6251Ph: 0418 742 749 E-mail: admin@ The huge open log fire provides a warm atmosphereE-mail: [email protected] wehlsmtbensonvineyards.com.au during our cold winter months, where you can relax on theWeb: www.bertonvineyards.com.au Web: www.wehlsmtbensonvineyards. comfortable lounges after your meal to enjoy either a glassBimbadgen Estate com.au of Margaret River wine or a liqueur coffee.Ph: (02) 4998 4600 Wise WineE-mail: [email protected] Ph: (08) 9756 8627 The fully stocked bar offers local and imported beers, spirits,Web: www.bimbadgen.com.au E-mail: [email protected] cocktails and an extensive wine list showcasing some ofBleasdale Vineyards Web: www.wisewine.com.au Margaret River’s best wines.Ph: (08) 8537 3001E-mail: [email protected] CANTERBURY & Our menu is very designed to please all palates. We haveWeb: www.bleasdale.com.au CENTRAL OTAGO, NZ traditional pasta dishes, a variety of seafood, beef, venison,Boston Bay Wines Akarua chicken dishes, salads and decadent desserts. We can alsoPh: (08) 8684 3600 Ph: +64 3 445 0897 cater for different dietary requirements. All of our meals areE-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] prepared fresh and use local produce when possible.Web: www.bostonbaywines.com.au Web: www.akarua.comBuller Wines Domain Road Vineyard We are proud to support local musicians, who come andPh: (03) 5452 1825 Ph: +64 3 477 7737 entertain our guests on Friday and Saturday nights.E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: www.buller.com.au Web: www.domainroad.co.nz 117 Bussell Highway Margaret RiverChurchview Estate Greystone Wines Fully licensed RestaurantPh: (08) 9755 7200 Ph: +64 272 525 331 Open for Lunch – Saturday & Sunday 11.30am – 2.30pmE-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Open for Dinner 7 nights from 6pmWeb: www.churchview.com.au Web: www.greystonewines.co.nz Please call 08 9757 2999 to make a reservationClovely Estate Pty Ltd Kaituna ValleyPh: (07) 3876 3100 Ph: +64 3 329 0110E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: www.clovely.com.au Peregrine WinesCredaro Family Estate Ph: +64 3 442 4000Ph: (08) 9755 1111 E-mail: [email protected]: [email protected] Web: www.peregrinewines.co.nzWeb: www.beachheadwines.com.au Shaky Bridge WinesDiGiorgio Family Wines Ph: +64 3 448 8436Ph: (08) 8736 3222 E-mail: [email protected]: [email protected] Web: www.shakybridge.co.nzWeb: www.digiorgio.com.au Whitestone WinesElderton Ph: +64 27 531 4688Ph: (08) 8568 7878 E-mail: [email protected]: [email protected] Web: www.waiparawinecellars.co.nzWeb: www.eldertonwines.com.auFermoy Estate MICHAEL COOPER’SPh: (08) 9755 6285 RECENT RELEASESE-mail: [email protected] AkaruaWeb: www.fermoy.com.au Ph: +64 3 445 0897Karatta Wines/Griffin Pastoral Co. E-mail: [email protected]: (08) 8215 0250 Web: www.akarua.comE-mail: [email protected] Brodie EstateWeb: www.karattawines.com.au Ph: +64 6 306 8835Majella E-mail: [email protected]: (08) 8736 3055 Web: www.brodieestate.co.nzE-mail: [email protected] Crighton EstateWeb: www.majellawines.com.au Ph: +64 219 55767Morambro Creek Wines/ E-mail: [email protected] Jip Rocks/Mt Monster Web: www.crightonestate.co.nzPh: (08) 8723 1065 Julicher EstateE-mail: [email protected] Ph: +64 6 306 8575Web: www.morambrocreek.com.au; E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.julicher.co.nzQuarisa Wines Pegasus Bay WineryPh: (02) 6963 6222 Ph: +64 3 314 6869E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: www.quarisa.com.au Web: www.pegasusbay.comRaidis Estate Wither Hills Vineyard LtdPh: 0417 834 195 Ph: +64 3 520 8270E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: www.raidis.com.au Web: www.witherhills.co.nzSam Miranda King Valley Woollaston EstatesPh: (03) 5727 3888 Ph: +64 3 543 2817E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected]: www.sammiranda.com.au Web: www.woolaston.co.nz November/December 2010 W I N E S TAT E 145

aftertasteELISABETH KINGMy Big Fat Greek Wine grows upONE OF the best things about revisiting a equipment. Large-scale investment really Greek wines onto foreign wine lists – there’sdestination after an absence of 10 years, started to kick in during the early 1990s. no argument from me after tasting a Domaineespecially if the country is in Europe, is Gerovassiliou Malgousia with an incrediblethat the overall quality of the wines will Greece may have a Mediterranean fruity/aromaticbouquet andlong, crisp finish.have greatly improved. The Greeks may be climate but its geography is challengingpaying dearly for the spending splurge on for winemakers. In a mountainous country Moschofilero is the grape behind thethe infrastructure for the Athens Olympics, covering 132,000 square kilometres, the exceptional wines from Botari and Domainebut there’s one aspect of national life they best sites for vineyards are usually at Skouras wineries - peachy, floral and crisp.can take solace from in more ways than higher altitudes. Lack of rainfall is also a Pronounced acidity with hints of peach,one: the dramatic wine revolution that has major bugbear. melon and mint are the trademarks of lagorthi.taken place in the past 20 years. Roditis may sound like a terminal disease, There’s a lot of bulk wines available in but the grape produces light, citrusy wines. If your palate memories remain welded to Greece, often sold in supermarkets where The predominant white grape of Attika isretsina, move on. The Greeks certainly have. customers can fill their own bottles for about savatiano, which is mainly used to makeWhile retsina still represents 30 per cent of $2 a litre. At the top end, though, there are retsina, but in the hands of a masterful, new-Greece’s wine production and is popular two official quality levels: OPAP for high generation Greek winemaker it yields fresh,with tourists, domestic consumption has quality wines and OPE, the appellation lemony wines with floral and mineral tones.nosedived. No wonder, when Athenians can for sweet wines. What really makes Greekorder top tipples like a barrel-aged assyrtiko wines unique, however, is the emphasis on The Greek red most Australians think of isfrom Santorini, as I did in Athens recently at indigenous varietals. This is a curse (unfamiliar mavrodaphne, a.k.a. ‘the poor man’s port’.the incongruously named Saloon, a revamped names) and a blessing (it offers a real point Standards are rising here, too, but the redtaverna that serves one of the best moussakas of difference). The bulk of the higher-quality varietal that’s really making wine lovers perkin the city. Far from being oaky, the wood wines are enjoyed in Greece itself for three up and take notice is agiorgitiko. Domaineadded a little more spice to the ripe citrus reasons: Greece’s total annual production Skouras Grane Cuvee Nemea is a world-finish and was a perfect foil for the creamy is less than half that of Bordeaux; producers class bottling made from ‘St George’s grape’sauce atop Greece’s national dish. tend to be small (about two hectares); and and is distinguished by ripe, red fruit and yields are low, resulting in high prices. a floral/spicy aroma. Xinomavro and limnio As is the case with many aspects of grapes can also produce high-quality winesWestern culture, the Greeks discovered More than 300 ancient grape varieties in the right hands. Mandelari is often used towinemaking first with a few tips from the have been discovered that have no proven make exceptional roses, but the reds fromEgyptians and Phoenicians. Long before connection with grapes from Italy, Spain and this grape, originally from Crete, have anAgamemnon set sail for Troy - in fact, more France. Many of the younger generation of interesting floral and strawberry characterthan 4000 years before movies like 300 Greek winemakers have been trained in that has won over legions of fans in the UK.and Clash of the Titans, the Greeks were France, Italy and the US and have introducedcultivating vines. We even have concrete the gamut of international grape varieties. You do feel like a bit of a neophyte all overevidence of a thriving wine culture dating But the Greeks are making their most again with Greek wines. But it’s a journey ofback to 2500 BC, thanks to salvaged determined efforts to crack the international discovery that’s well worth embarking on.amphorae from ancient shipwrecks. wine market with their native grapes. Yet although Greece can claim to be the About 80 per cent of Greek wines areoldest wine-producing country in the world, it crisp, dry whites. The seven major whitewas the Romans who really spread the word. varietals are naturally high in acid and suitedThrough the long centuries of Ottoman rule to Greece’s almost year-round hot climatein the Greek-speaking world, winemaking which can wilt many international varietals.was barely tolerated. It wasn’t until Greece Athiri generally produces medium-acidcame under the aegis of a new empire - the wines with light aromas, while assyrtiko,EU - in the 1980s that the wine industry really with its high acidity, citrus and stone-fruitblossomed, thanks to invaluable subsidies character, is grown in many regions.that enabled vignerons to buy state-of-the-art Malagousia is regarded as the premium grape that will do the most to springboardn e x t i s s u e : The best of the best - Winestate’s annual Wine of the Year Awards results from over 10,000 wines tasted! Plus, Hunter Valley, Queensland, riesling, sauvignon blanc and blends, pinot gris/grigio and dark rum and bourbon.146 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2010

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