Winestate Magazine November December 2010

At work in Siam Winery's Hua Hin Vineyards.November/December 2010 W I N E S TAT E 51

Before this, a tentative step had beentaken by Red Bull energy drink founder,Chalerm Yoovidhya, when he establishedSiam Winery, now Thailand’s largest. Its firststep was to draw on table grape plantingsin the so-called ‘floating vineyards‘ alongthe Chao Praya Delta, near Bangkok, toproduce a local version of a sparkling winecooler: 90 million bottles of Spy Wine Coolerare now sold each year. But it didn’t stop there: the venture hasprogressively expanded into still wines and,after several moves to establish a sustainablestyle formula, it has now settled on therange of wines under the naturally evocativeMonsoon Valley brand, launched in 2003,as its flagship. In addition to wines based onchenin blanc, colombard and shiraz underthis label, a unique style statement is made52 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2010

There’s no doubting that the challenges for a short drive from Pattaya central, windingviticulture in this tropical environment are through spectacular local physicalsubstantial and, naturally, there is a quality landmarks. Its debut vintage, with a cheninspectrum among the producers. blanc and a shiraz, was in 2006. At Hua Hin, Siam Winery now has substantial vineyardwith appealing still wines made from the two charmingly cosy Vincoto restaurant on plantings and an impressive visitors’ centremystery varieties that grow in the floating site. A seven-room guesthouse was added that features an ultra-modern tasting roomvineyards - known locally as malaga blanc recently. Granmonte wines will be launched and a delightful open-design restaurant.(a white) and pokdum (rosé). in Australia in late October. In the far north, near the city of Chang A new benchmark for what has become Ninety kilometers away, Village Farm and Rai, there is a boutique winery resort in aa significant local industry was taken when Winery is a spectacular holiday resort in spectacular lakeside setting, called DoiPiya Bhirombhakdi, a member of Thailand’s a vineyard near Wang Nam Keow, on the Hom Fha. The winery that is part of theSingha beer family, launched PB Valley eastern side of Khao Yai National Park. It resort, Mae Chan, releases a small volumeKhao Yai winery. A longstanding wine was established by yet another prominent of shiraz and chenin blanc wines under thelover, he imagined that the higher altitude businessman, Viravat Cholvanisch, around Napa Meing label. Another winery in theon the slopes around the Khao Yai National the same time as PB Valley. Its premium red north with visitor facilities is Shala One, inPark, less than two hours by car north-east wines come in three tiers of shiraz/cabernet Phichit Province.of Bangkok, might provide some relief sauvignon combinations under the Chateaufrom the challenges of tropical viticulture des Brumes label. There is also a Village There’s no doubting that the challengesin intense lowland climates. The winery, Cellar range. The locally grown shiraz is for viticulture in this tropical environmentThailand’s second largest, had its first supplemented in marginal proportions are substantial and, naturally, there is avintage in 1998. It kicked off with what have by cabernet grape concentrate brought quality spectrum among the producers. Butbecome the Thai industry’s staple varieties in from France: to its credit, the winery several have won substantial recognition- chenin blanc, colombard and syrah - and declares this on the label. for their efforts in some of the toughestmore recently has excited palates locally international competitions. Both Siamand internationally with its tempranillo. In The fourth Khao Yai winery is Alcidini, a Winery and Granmonte have won silveraddition to its cellar door tasting facility nascent winery that so far has released medals at Syrah du Monde in France, forthere is onsite accommodation and great only tiny quantities of a quality shiraz example, and Siam Winery at Mundus Vinidining experiences to be had at its open-air produced from vines grown on precipitous in Germany. PB Valley’s Pirom TempranilloGreat Hornbill Grill. slopes at 530m. The winery is also getting won gold at AWC Vienna. Thai wine has encouraging results from experiments with also gained consumer acceptance in Khao Yai, with a significantly cooler cabernet sauvignon from a neighbour’s Europe and the US, and not just as anclimate than the surrounding lowlands, vineyard; it’s a variety that has thus far accompaniment to Thai food.is now home to four modern wineries proven difficult to get the best from in localat altitudes between 300 and 550m. conditions in Thailand. So, think about wine as a holiday optionGranMonte, a few kilometres away from for Thailand. Arrangements for touring andPB Valley, began with a meticulously The coastal holiday zones with wineries tasting can be made directly with most of themanicured vineyard established by another are the popular international tourist wineries and are surprisingly reasonable.prominent Thai business identity, Visooth destination: Pattaya, on the eastern side A day tour to Khao Yai, for example, canLohitnavy. Wines under the GranMonte of the Gulf of Siam, about two hours cost as little as 2000 baht ($A50).label were initially made at PB Valley from Bangkok, and a favoured holidaywinery. But after the founder’s daughter, destination of wealthy locals, Hua Hin, on CHECK THEM OUTNikki, arrived home after graduating in the western side of the gulf, about fourenology at Adelaide University, a modern hours’ drive from Bangkok. www.thaiwine.orgwinery was built: Nikki had her first vintage www.chateaudeloei.comin 2009. Granmonte’s impressive line-up of Silverlake is the first (and so far the only) www.siamwinery.comchenin blanc and syrah wines is presented vineyard in the Pattaya district. It is part www.khaoyaiwinery.com (PB Valley)at the cellar door, and with meals in the of an elaborate complex that includes www.granmonte.com sporting facilities, open-air concerts, www.villagefarm.co.th accommodation and a 250-seat restaurant, www.alcidini.com www.huahillsvineyard.com www.maechanwinery.com Above; Approaching Mae Chan Winery, near Chiang Rai. Below: The floating vineyards, Chao Praya Delta. November/December 2010 W I N E S TAT E 53

A PURPLE PATCHIN COONAWARRAYoung and energetic,Koonara is heading in exciting directionsD. PAUL HARDY

A L T H O U G H I T I S O N E of the attained turnover increases of 100 per looking for younger wines with immediate cent each year - all based on delivering appeal. It makes sense to deliver that inyoungest wine brands in Coonawarra, maximum value for money that is now affordable, approachable wines withoutwithout a winery or substantial vineyard spread across labels at four different price ever taking the eye off quality.”holdings, Koonara continues to enjoy points, all below $30.sustained growth and development. Since While Koonara has developed a diverseDru Reschke (pictured above) started “I can’t see the point in making wines portfolio to meet this expectation, cabernet isissuing Koonara wines in 1999, he has that aren’t consumer-focused,” says Dru. driving the brand’s success. “Cabernet fromrelentlessly pursued excellence and “I want the brand to grow. More people are Coonawarra has a specific regionality to it, November/December 2010 W I N E S TAT E 55

Mt Gambier is goingto be an importantregion of the future.It’s the coolest locationfor growing grapes inAustralia; much coolerthan Tumbarumba, orGeelong, or Tasmania. Photos courtesy of Koonara Wines.and I think we really need this to stand out in established his own vineyards further north This is the latest in a growing portfolio that isthe world of wine,” says Dru. “You can spot along the Coonawarra strip, which led Dru tended with care and concentration by long-a Coonawarra cabernet in a blind line-up of to select the family property name for his time Reschke family friend and Coonawarrawines at a tasting. There’s a particular type wine brand to avoid confusion. winemaking veteran Peter Douglas. Peterof flavour - that hit of blueberry and touch makes the wines at Di Giorgio winery, andof mint - and it’s important that we don’t Now Dru has enlisted additional growers having previously spent 15 years at Wynns,mask or confuse that. Coonawarra has been in three districts to access fruit that he he knows the region intimately and how tothrough some funny eras - a lot of greenish can’t obtain in Coonawarra. “I wanted white extract the best from the available fruit. “Wewines in the late ’80s, the big, jammy, Parker- wines. Our customers and distributors wereesque blockbusters of the late ’90s - but I screaming out for them.” He obtains muchthink that now most producers are back of this material from Geelong, where twofocusing on what the region does best.” growers supply chardonnay and pinot noir (for his Bay of Apostles sparkling wine), It’s a similar story with shiraz, often and also shiraz.classified on equal terms with cabernetby consumers and critics. “We really But Dru is more excited by fruit he sourceshave got both cabernet and shiraz from Mt Gambier - pinot noir, chardonnay,styles down pat in Coonawarra,” says sauvignon blanc and pinot gris from twoDru. “When they’re grown correctly, I’d growers - and is proudly declaring its originargue they can be the best in Australia.” on the bottle. “Mt Gambier is going to be anThe strength of this fruit has resulted in important region of the future,” he says. “It’ssingle-vineyard wines - Ambriel’s Gift the coolest location for growing grapes inCabernet Sauvignon and Ezra’s Gift Australia; much cooler than Tumbarumba,Shiraz - sourced from separate parts or Geelong, or Tasmania. This year weof the Koonara property, the Reschke took our last grapes from Mt Gambier afamily’s 800-hectare farm in Coonawarra. whole month later than Geelong, which also ripens later than Adelaide Hills fruit. This big plot ran cattle for 100 years That’s a significant difference, and youuntil 10 hectares of grapevines were can taste that.”planted in 1988, initially as a hobby forDru’s late father, Trevor, and a chance to The great surprise has been premium-diversify agricultural incomes by selling quality pinot noir from young Mt Gambierfruit to major wine companies. When they vines. This year, the first release of Bay oflearned their grapes were being directed Apostles pinot noir (a 50/50 blend of fruitto icon brands, the Reschkes began from Mt Gambier and Geelong) ran within acommercial production of their own wine whisker of taking the Jimmy Watson Trophyin 1999. However, Dru’s brother, Burke, at the Melbourne Wine Show for best one-had already started Reschke Wines and year-old red wine - the first time pinot has ever been in contention.56 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2010

probably give Peter more grief than any Penola on Australia Day, 2006, choosing a Koonara shops in Apollo Bay, Victoria, andother clients, because it all comes in tiny more expansive wine/food/art experience in Robe. “I want to connect these winesparcels and is all treated separately,” says by stocking cooking accessories and with people,” explains Dru simply. “TheDru, “but there’s a difference in the quality homewares in addition to the wines, and cellar door shops have been a great waythat can’t be argued.” holding art exhibitions throughout the year. to provide access to people - and for them The object is to attract tourists as well as to become fans of our wines.” Dru’s marketing strategy to draw attention wine buffs, exposing more customers to theis through three Koonara cellar door outlets. brand, which has led to the opening of other LIMESTONE COAST TASTING STARTS PAGE 118.A shop was opened in the main street of November/December 2010 W I N E S TAT E 57

winewords J O H N E D W A R D SSKYE MURTAGHThe wine bug first bit John Edwards back in Where’s the most unusual What support is needed to optimise thethe 1970s, when he worked as a cellar hand place you’ve consumed area’s standing and potential?at Seaview for one vintage. Vowing to one wine? Continued financial support to bona fideday return to the wine industry, he finally On top of Big Red at the end cellar doors from government, cooperationdid - albeit almost 20 years later! After of a Simpson Desert crossing, in building the Adelaide Hills brand at aworking in a variety of fields - including last August. We celebrated an local, state and federal level, winemakingcommerce, sales and marketing - John and amazing journey by hoovering that brings out the best and, mosthis wife Helen took the first step to realising a bottle of ’98 Dom. It had importantly, loyal customers.their dream of becoming wine growers travelled magnificently andin 1992, with the purchase of a property went down a treat. Where are the most lucrative newon Ravenswood Lane at Hahndorf in the markets for The Lane Vineyard?picturesque Adelaide Hills. Handpicked What’s the most memorable Our cellar door and bistro at Ravenswoodby the couple for its aspect and ancient bottle of wine you’ve Lane, the Australian market and - if I don’tgravelly soils, the 90-acre property - now consumed? run out of patience - I believe China will beknown as The Lane Vineyard - was initially There are a few but maybe a great opportunity for us, but a long haul.planted with sauvignon, chardonnay, the first time I tried Marcelshiraz and cabernet. In 1996 the first wines Guigal’s La Mouline, La Turk There are four of you in The Lanewere produced under the Ravenswood and La Landonne at Bistro de Somellier Vineyard winemaking team. What’sLane label and their immediate success in Paris. It was the first time I had seen your role and what’s the key toled to a joint venture with the Hardy Wine viognier of various strengths in shiraz. working well together?Company, through which John became Helen and I hired a car the next day and My role is vigneron, that is to have a sayvigneron behind the popular brand, drove to Ampuis to get a closer look at in how we go about growing the fruit,Starvedog Lane. The success of this these wines, only to find they were sold certainly when to pick, to be involved inseven-year partnership was a perfect on only one day a year! I did manage to press cuts with whites and - what I getfoundation for John to fully develop his go crawling through those blocks over the out of bed for - to put the blends togetherown domain, and in 2005 he left the joint next few years, checking when they were with the senior winemaker and control theventure to focus on producing single- picked, what oak they saw etc. I learnt a style of wines that we produce. To havevineyard wines under his own label, The fair bit doing that ‘after dark’ work! a cohesive team it is important to employLane Vineyard. Today The Lane Vineyard people that are on the same page asencompasses 150 acres, boasts a state- How would you describe your personal you. We are totally focused on bringingof-the-art 500-tonne small batch winery wine collection? our beautiful vineyard into the glass, toand also houses a thriving bistro and cellar I’m a boring old Francophile at heart. produce wines with a true sense of place.door facility. John and Helen work the My wine collection is a moving feast but The wines reflect this and we all get a bigwinery alongside a talented team which centred on the varieties that we grow: kick out of being unique.includes two second-generation family chablis, white burgundy, shiraz andmembers: Marty Edwards, who manages viognier from Cornas north to Ampuis.the vineyard as well as UK and EU markets, Left Bank Bordeaux red and white, with aand Ben Tolstoshev, who is responsible for strong leaning to St Julien red, and whitesnational and cellar door sales. from Graves.Can you recall your first wine experience? How do you see the Adelaide HillsWhen I was a kid growing up in Whyalla, wine region developing over the nextmy dad took the family to the Hotel Spencer five to 10 years?for Christmas lunch. What a treat - seafood As Andrew Jefford said about thecocktail, roast chicken, pudding and, for Adelaide Hills, “the movie has barelythe first time in my life, I saw my father order run its opening credits”. After threea bottle of wine. My folks barely drank at all decades of development we know thein those days so this was a real turn-up. We possibilities are very exciting. World-all had a glass and, while it was labelled class chardonnay is the first notch in oursauternes, I’m pretty sure with our budget belt and watch this space for shiraz and,it would have been a local knock-off! on the right site, cabernet.58 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2010

How would you describe your personal STAY IN THEapproach to winemaking? COGNAC REGIONGo as natural as you can, both in thevineyard and winery. The majority of our TOM HARDY’Sblocks are organic, some biodynamic, “LOCK KEEPER’S COTTAGE”all ferments are indigenous, plenty ofscience (thanks to Michael Schreurs and IN JARNAC RIGHTHugh Guthrie) but no chemistry in this OPPOSITE COURVOISIERwinery. This is a long way from the earlydays when we added acid, enzyme, DAP WEEKLY HOLIDAY RENTALSat the press and cultivated yeasts to all VERY REASONABLE RATESferments. Today there’s a lot of workingwith ‘the big guy’ upstairs rather than the CONTACT TOM HARDYdrug companies. TEL: 0411 191 043What’s the most useful trait any www.picwine.com.au click onwinemaker should have? ‘RETREATS’Guts and self-belief enable you to walkand work to the beat of a different drum. EMAIL: [email protected] your own style, dare to be differentand be authentic.Do you have a soft spot for any oneparticular variety?Chardonnay - clearly the most versatilegrape variety in the world and responsiblefor the world’s greatest white wines ... andit’s coming back big time!Who gave you the best bit ofwinemaking advice?There’s no one individual. I had theremarkable opportunity to work alongsidesome of Australia’s greats - Tom Newton,Stephen Pannell, Rob Mann and GlenJames - and I was like a bloody greatsponge alongside them. Better than anyuni for me.Have your personal wine tastes changedover the years?I remember the first wines I ever boughtwere moselles from Ryecroft. Jeez, howtimes and palate have changed. It’s why Iget excited about China; there’s hope for‘real’ wine there after all!Your favourite wine/food match?The Lane Vineyard’s Gathering SauvignonBlanc Semillon with pristine oysters - amatch made in heaven. November/December 2010 W I N E S TAT E 59

melbournegrapevineHILARY McNEVINNew places have been popping up all over glass, and the location is interesting. ThereMelbourne, with more chefs from high-end are great pubs around North Fitzroy butdining going out on their own and setting up the area seems to be enjoying somethingtheir own places, more often than not with a a little different. 203 St Georges Rd, Northfar more casual feel than what they’ve been Fitzroy; phone (03) 9482 3002.doing in roles at their one-, two- and three-hat restaurants around the city. Matt Wilkinson, formerly of two-hat restaurant restaurant Circa The Prince in Michael Smith, former head chef of three- St Kilda, has hung up his fine-dining shoeshat iconic restaurant Jacques Reymond, but not his commitment to quality to be ahas opened Jorg (pronounced George) in part-owner in an East Brunswick cafe calledinner-city North Fitzroy with two business Pope Joan. Ben Foster, who most recentlypartners, fellow chef Bryce Bernhardt, was general manager of Carlton’s Thewho most recently was senior sous chef at Kent Hotel, initially invited Matt to consult August) and the breakfasts are generous.Church Street Enoteca in Richmond, and on the kitchen set-up, and the two struck The eggs are from producers just outsidefront-of-house manager Dan Cristiano, up a business partnership. Pope Joan is a Melbourne - the poached egg with smokedwho worked the floor of Ivanhoe’s Floyd. spacious room, its fit-out designed and built fish roesti is a standout and the coffee isWhat is now Jorg was once a fruit and by Ben, who has dressed the back wall with made by trained baristas. The wine list isveg shop that the boys took over and striking black-and-white Moroccan tiles and ever-changing and very short, with theproceeded to renovate - a significant finished the rest of the room with shelves intention to only have one or two whites andchange was the removal of the suspended with retro and vintage cooking equipment reds and a beer, all from Victoria, at any oneceiling to reveal stunning oregon beams - that all equals a relaxed environment with time and change them as they are finishedand create a warm feeling in a very large an edge of professionalism and comfort. to highlight smaller producers around theroom. Olive green banquettes and crockery state. 77-79 Nicholson St, East Brunswick;in earthy tones balance the stark white walls The menu is not what you initially think two phone (03) 9388 8858.and the high ceilings in the back rooms of hospitality professionals of this pedigreethe restaurant. may present, although scratch the surface Melbourne-based French chef Gabriel and it all starts to make sense. There is a Martin’s most recent venture was the Jorg is what seems to be the way to eat in commitment to quality product and service much-loved one-hat Maisonette in EssendonMelbourne these days; a menu structured that is evident the minute you sit down. in Melbourne’s west, and he has nowaround choice for the diner. A selection of Sandwiches are simply presented, just moved north into what was a functionsmall bites is just right to eat with an aperitif as we would slice a sandwich in two, but centre and before that a ballroom. The- such as golden quail with fennel slaw the bread, from well-regarded Melbourne Metropolis Eating House is a cavernousor a goat’s cheese bavarois with pickled bakery Dench, is filled with pickled ox room made warm with intricate Catherinebeetroot - and then it moves through to tongue (they call it their ‘corned beef’), Martin wallpaper along its expansive wallslarger dishes like King George whiting in creamy Italian asiago cheese with house- and dressed in an eclectic mix of antiquebrik pastry, finished with preserved lemon made piccalilli (pickled vegetables) on the and post-modern furniture. Gabriel is alsoor braised lamb with cous cous, almonds side. It’s instantly comforting and delicious playing with a flexible menu where thereand olives. The wine list is thoughtful, smart in its simplicity. All the produce is local and are small dishes he calls bar miniaturesand modern, with a great selection by the seasonal (no tomatoes on the menu here in and entrees are called ‘first approach’ - the beauty here is you can order one of two sizes of dish so you may choose many small dishes or go the traditional route of entree, main and dessert. Metropolis is also open for Sunday lunch, when Gabriel cooks traditional French food inspired by his mother - think duck confit, seafood casserole and creme caramel. This has the potential to be something special on the Sydney Rd stretch of Brunswick. 314 Sydney Rd, Brunswick; phone (03) 9388 8730. Left & centre: Pope Joan interior. Right: Jorg Restaurant.60 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2010

wine snobs — we nose best —Orlando St Hugo Wirra Church Cabernet Block Red Blend Sauvignon$2999 $1299Order 2 dozen wines and get Veuve Clicquot a free case of Crown Lager Non Vintage Champagne $5699 Cloudy Bay Taylors EstateSauvignon Blanc Merlot$2499 $1099winesnobs.com.au

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adelaidegrapevine GRAEME ANDREWSFor nearly 90 years, the Palais has to many found in Adelaide specialist Asian heralding that it’s time to dine, rather thandominated the vast sands of Semaphore’s restaurants, while the chef’s signature simply track down a quick, tummy-filling hit.shoreline, where the brilliant white facade flourless mud cake with double cream andand neo-classical design still catch the berry compote will take you to seventh Terry and Maria Soukoulis have been ateye. It’s a grand, sophisticated nod to early heaven. Serves are generous and costs the helm for 10 years. Yes, both are of GreekSouth Australia’s bustling maritime history, slightly lower than at the average hotel. heritage, but boy, do they know how to runwhen clipper masters and skippers from a top Italian restaurant. Team Soukoulisnearby Port Adelaide made this seaside The wine list is extensive and well-priced, brings to the hospitality industry an all-too-location home. The Palais’ fortunes, incorporating a healthy mix of quality drops rare fusion of intense passion, intelligencehowever, have fluctuated wildly. from lesser-known makers such as Tomich, and unwavering commitment to offer the Totino and Smith and Hooper - a delightful dining public refreshingly innovative cuisine The Karpluk family recently entered the departure from the common practice of crafted with loving care. Such restaurantpicture, not only restoring the exterior to just embracing major corporate brands. methodology is unique, time-consuming and Service too, is user-friendly, brisk and in (I suspect) very costly as well.its original glory, but transforming the tired tune. The Esplanade, Semaphore; phoneinterior into a delightful network of function (08) 8341 6333; www.palais.com.au. The menu construction embraces arooms, gaming saloon, beach bar and plethora of components, namely seasonalitybistro. Neat, fresh and functional has been The restaurant population of South and invigorating relationships withtheir mantra, a deliberate underplaying of Australia has grown exponentially over the speciality growers and producers, togetheraccessorised decor to allow the tranquil past 10 to 15 years. Keeping abreast is a with the culture of ‘paesi’. The latter involvesbeach vista to remain the key player. major challenge in itself. While Auge had exploration of village specialities from every been on my ‘must do’ list for some time, it Italian region, recording recipes and finally The Beach Front Bistro has a warm, was only recently that I found myself pushing reconstructing the most gastronomicallyrelaxed casual feel with full table service. through the big, polished copper front desirable food within a ‘fine dining’The menu tends to gravitate towards doors, intent on a little personal exploration. restaurant context. Sommelier Alexandrotraditional pub grub such as salt and Ragazzo undertakes the daunting task ofpepper squid, baked chicken kiev or beef My initial impression was an interior with choosing Italian wine or Italian varieties tomedallions with the usual sauce toppings. a slightly retro feel, a cocoon of indulgent complement these dishes.Interestingly, the kitchen offers some sophistication of a type that rarely surfacesinteresting restaurant-style dishes too. A any more. I wonder whether, sadly, this The challenge of producing truly superbbruschetta of perfectly spiced vine-ripened style of atmosphere is destined to go the Italian food is racked up even higher by thetomatoes, fresh basil, shaved parmesan way of the dinosaurs. owners’ insistence that every culinary stepand Pendleton Estate olive oil has been must occur in-house. Stocks, reductionscarefully created. With a tiny $10 price tag, it Soft rust tones and brown ceramic inlays and sauces wear the tricolour stripes ofprovides a delightful, refreshing small meal. hold sway, instead of contemporary, harsh unrelenting kitchen professionalism. SilkyChargrilled vegetables laced with goat’s stainless steel or chrome embellishments. pastas and creamy risottos roll relentlesslycheese are artfully entwined in a feather- Cosseted warmth radiates in lieu of to eager patrons from a pumping galley.light pastry tart tower for a subtle, balanced modern, impersonal chic. Plush leather Other dishes dazzle both palate and eye.and delicious treat. Marinated chicken chairs, discreet amber pendant lights and a Five-hour braised pork hock with pork andsatay skewers in a puddle of peanut and conversation-friendly backdrop extend this blood sausage, or pan-fried gnocchi withcoconut milk sauce are pleasantly superior intimacy further. The addition of double- calvados, will leave you drooling. Amaretto dressed white table linen and quality sponge cake with almond milk, hazelnut accoutrements completes the package, ganache with chocolate discs will satisfy the sweetest tooth. Perfectly aged DOP- certified cheeses continue the mantra of regionality, each served with proper eating temperature in mind. Auge takes the concept of Italian hospitality seriously. Exacting service, extensive waiter knowledge and genuine desire to exceed every diner’s expectations are a given. A stand-apart, multiple award-winning establishment, among a sea of poor imitators. Long may it reign. 22 Grote St; phone (08) 8410 9332; www.auge.com.au. Above: Auge Ristorante interior and exterior. November/December 2010 W I N E S TAT E 63

sydneygrapevineELISABETH KINGTomislav Martinovic hails from the inner My tastebuds soon followed when the at Berta’s sister restaurant, Vini. This MOwestern suburb of Burwood. Your first perfectly cooked, handmade linguine fits with the simple yet good menu whichimpression is of a burly, laid-back Aussie, offset by the sharpness of the cheese and is matched to the wines on offer - frombut that’s where the hometown boy image anchovies arrived in a tidy loaf shape. the smooth-as-chicken liver pate spikedends. Tomislav has worked with some of Another deceptively simple dish - grilled with Bergamino liqueur to pan-friedthe world’s finest chefs, from Matt Moran South Canterbury lamb cutlets with cuttlefish with zucchini. Wine orderedof Aria to Guillaume Brahimi of Benelong parsley crumbs and chickpeas - revealed by the glass comes in two sizes so youand Eric Chavot of London’s Capitol that Tomislav has absorbed and digested can taste more or less. A recipient of oneHotel. But the major culinary influence Blumenthal’s visionary take on modern of Sydney city’s matched cash grantsapparent in every perfect dish at Tomislav culinary techniques. which have helped more than 25 barsRestaurant can be traced to British open in the past two years, Berta hasmaster chef Heston Blumenthal. Tomislav claims that his signature attracted many female patrons who feel dessert, vanilla cheesecake, is a trade- that small bars are safer and friendlier. During the chef’s equivalent of a gap year 17-19 Albert St; phone (02) 9264 6133.or three, Tomislav worked at Blumenthal’s up from the supermarket version byMichelin 3-star restaurant, The Fat Duck, Sara Lee. Sure, it’s made with cheese, When anyone suggests lunch nearbefore opening his own gastro-pub in but that’s where any similarity ends. Circular Quay, I tend to fall back on oldthe trendy London suburb of Battersea. Offset by the tanginess of rhubarb favourites such as Cafe Sydney. CapitalThankfully, the pull of home proved too sorbet, this version coaxes greatness Grill, which opened early this year, alsostrong and, although he’s mastered the from everyday ingredients. A feat offers a multi-level approach with ancasual personal approach, he couldn’t be Tomislav repeats in another dessert - espresso bar, wine bar (30 wines by themore serious about food. apple crumble, a truly heavenly wedge glass) and a mezzanine dining level that of macadamia sponge topped with fat has attracted a mainly male corporate Tomislav Restaurant opened in early slices of poached apples. The wine list clientele at lunchtime. The chef is Zac2010 and word has spread like a bushfire is as considered as the menu. There Sykes, formerly of Fishface and The Pierthat - gasp - grand eating can be found are European selections - no doubt the at Rose Bay, so the fish dishes such asat the ‘Top of the Cross’. I'd heard a lot legacy of Tomislav’s time in London - grilled hiramasa kingfish on a bed ofabout an entree - poached Comboyne but we ordered a 2007 Juniper Estate cannellini beans, tomatoes and saffronhen’s egg - and placed an order at ‘Estate’ Chardonnay and a 2007 Groom are exquisitely cooked. With so manyonce. While we were waiting, out came Shiraz to go with a meal that really blokes to feed, steaks are also a star of therice crackers with sea salt and vinegar earned the description of ‘stunning’. menu, from the 300g pasture-fed sirlointo take the edge off our hunger. The 2/13 Kirketon Rd, Darlinghurst; phone to the T-Bone with Paris mash, broccolifiligree, paper-thin wafers are so delicate (02) 9356 4535. and sugar snaps. If you book for dinner,you’re frightened they’ll self-destruct on leave some room for desserts such ascontact with your fingers. They don’t. The other newbie that has Sydneysiders caramelised brioche with raisin puree andBut there is the drama of spraying them abuzz is Berta Restaurant & Bar in lemon anglaise, and gratin of poachedwith vinegar via a perfume atomiser. The Surry Hills. It’s compact-sized and quince and champagne sabayon.verdict? A fairytale version of salt and located in a dark alleyway, and winevinegar chips. bottles are an important feature of the The Gateway, 1 Macquarie Place; phone decor. You can’t book - as is the case (02) 9247 4445. The Comboyne egg dish is alsosupposed to be a take on an old favourite Left & right: Tomislav Restaurant & Tomislav duck fillet.- pea and ham soup. As if. The perfectlywhipped mashed potato covering theegg, peas and ham was so light that itwas impossible to believe it had startedlife as a root vegetable. Tomislav smartlyoffers an edited menu, but you don’tfeel short-changed for choice. My fellowdiner started his meal with basmati ricerisotto studded with the fattest Yambaprawns - another standout of the simple-turned-sensational philosophy. Mains on offer veered from roastmulloway fillets to pasture-fed Angusscotch fillet, but my attention was attractedby egg linguine with Jannei goat’s cheese.64 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2010

brisbanegrapevine LIZZIE LOELThe Logan Rd precinct in Wooloongabba Indian blend - think dim sum and curries, At Cloudland, the elaborately bedeckedthat is home to a boutique selection of tempura and sushi, stir-fries and tandoori mega-bar set over several floors andBrisbane’s newest and sassiest venues naan. It’s a great option for a casual night featuring a ‘live wall’ (a wall of plants twoseems to be going from strength to out, sharing lots of platters and trying floors high) and glass roof that folds backstrength, with newcomers adding more a couple of interesting cocktails. 512 to reveal the stars on fine nights, there’s thechoices and some stylish new fit-outs. Wickham Tce, Fortitude Valley; phone addition of a cosy cellar bar specialisingPearl Cafe at no. 28 (phone (07) 3392 (07) 3221 3887. in wines and whiskies. Two lists give wine3300) led the charge and is still regarded, lovers a feast of choice, all compiledseveral years later, as one of Brisbane’s Up the road in Teneriffe there’s a new by resident sommelier and winemaker,best cafes. Then came 1889Enoteca kid on the block in the form of classic ex-South Australian Sandy Godfrey.at no. 10-12 (phone (07) 3392 4315), a suburban bistro Dish, the latest venture The newly expanded list includes backgorgeous Italian restaurant tucked into for chef/owner Mark Maric. His aim is vintages and stock from smaller producersan atmospheric retail cellar complete to create an intimate and much-pared- the world over and will change everywith a bar and separate function area in back spot for locals to dine frequently. two weeks to add variety and breadth.the basement. Taking away any of the pretentions and Downstairs the cellar is large and opulently concentrating on high-quality ingredients decorated and features several private, Crosstown Eating House (phone (07) prepared simply and an ever-evolving leather-clad booths that can be booked3162 3839) followed across the road, menu, Mark hopes to create a kitchen for private soirees. Curtains divide thesefitting in perfectly between Pearl’s great away from home for residents who can guests from the rest of the bar and eachcafe fare and Enoteca’s more formal style. walk to his conveniently located bistro booth has a dedicated wine and foodBistrot Bistro added some French flair under a leafy canopy of trees just across waiter to cater to every whim. Open untiland cosy decor and now there’s a bar the road from Beccofino. The menu is 5am, it serves food up until closing. Thecalled Canvas (phone (07) 3891 2111), divided into three sections - appetisers, whisky list visits all the highland, lowland,open from 4pm. The walls are decorated entrees and mains, of which there are Islay, island and Campbelltown malts,by renowned graffiti artist Sofles and about six choices. Oysters, a trio of dips some with up to 40 years age, as well asdepict fantasy scenes that form a and assorted olives including parmesan- a smattering from other parts of the worldcolourful backdrop for the melange of crumbed, braised kalamatas and chilli- like Japan and Australia. It’s a who’s whoretro and antique furnishings all encased of malt! Upstairs, chef Gary Farrell offersby a huge picture window at the front. flavoured Sicilian greens are offered a menu divided into two sections - EastDrinks here are highly original and served up-front, then hearty dishes like prawn meets West and Modern Australian. Bothin a variety of vessels from highballs to risoni with baked pancetta and a leek and feature colourful, eclectic dishes withpainted tin mugs. A huge block of ice garlic sauce or shallow-fried local squid plenty going on: soft-shell crabs withsits on the bar and is chipped off for iced on skordalia with a parsley, olive and roasted nigella seeds and sweet chilli jellydrinks and there’s also a well-chosen mint salad. Main courses run down the exemplify the East-West side, and rillettesand quite substantial wine list, with many same modern Australian path with slight of Granite Belt rabbit with rosemary, truffleavailable by the glass. The small menu influences from Morocco and southern and artichoke mayo gives you a taste ofis mainly shared platters of cheeses and Europe, and a small and well-selected Mod Oz. 641 Ann St, Fortitude Valley;charcuterie but this is also becoming a wine list with the option of BYO should suit phone (07) 3872 6600.top spot pre- and post-dinner. the climate and laid-back atmosphere of this inner-city suburb. 110 Macquarie St, Above: Canvas bar. Another new venue also sporting a vast Teneriffe; phone (07) 3257 3511.bar is Siana Valley. A sister restaurantto the CBD riverfront venue, this newincarnation utilises the same formula ofhigh-table communal seating runningthe length of the dining area that hasa view of the kitchen action right alongthe back wall. Downstairs, the bar isenormous and features a glass pooltable at one end. Huge bi-fold doorsopen on two sides to the street, withtables and chairs spilling out onto thefootpath. Head upstairs and you’ll finda more intimate space that can be usedfor private functions. The menu at bothplaces is identical, a sort of pan-Asian- November/December 2010 W I N E S TAT E 65

perthgrapevineROD PROPERJOHNWith diminishing returns nowadays, it’s pork rillette, lined up regimentally on a garlic yoghurt, buttered tomato paste andtough enough owning one restaurant but rectangular plate. It’s the sort of dish that sumac is a flavourful alternative to the grilledhaving two, and about 300km apart, would embodies the mainly French-style cuisine kebabs. Desserts arrive and the girls attest anyone’s inner strength. Russell served here and although I’d eat it anytime, our table melt. Baklava and other crunchyBlaikie, part-owner and supervising chef, it’s probably at its best in the depths of pastries excite but it’s the Turkish delightsseems to be handling the couple of Must winter. A pan-fried potato gnocchi with that are a real treat. These morsels are unlikewine bars, one in inner-suburban Highgate braised veal shank, caramelised onion the sticky, over-sweet, gelatinous versionsand the other in Margaret River, very well, and shaved parmesan ($22/$38) is next. available commercially around town andhowever. He also has media commitments This is gutsy; the stickiness of the stripped are more restrained, with a firmer texture,and has just released a book, the aptly shank meat works well in coating the and are a fine way of finishing a meal.named Must Eat, which is chock-full of lightly browned gnocchi, the onion adds Prices are reasonable at Alaturk, the foodrecipes and great wines to match. It’s sweetness and the cheese an obligatory is not as adventurous as at Tosun’s, but itprobably safe to say that Russell sleeps well biting finish to the dish. is a comfortable, licensed, family-orientedwhen his head finally hits the pillow at night. place and shouldn’t disappoint. 420 Hay St, The wine list is second to none and, Subiaco; phone (08) 9388 9029. We stroll into his Highgate wine bar one although the main dining room (bistro) canbitterly cold Sunday for lunch and the be noisy, the food, wine and professional Yu restaurant at the Burswoodfood and service don’t miss a beat - well, approach more than offset the lack of Entertainment Complex (hotel andalmost. I’m looking forward to a steaming intimacy. It continues to be one of Perth’s casino) is one of Perth’s better Asianbowl of soup, a fresh, crusty baguette and top places to dine. 519 Beaufort St, diners. Large and opulent, it has all thelashings of butter, but alas, there’s no soup Highgate; phone (08) 9328 8255. trimmings and advertises great Cantoneseon offer. Once past this one little glitch, cuisine (which it has) and serves otherthere is a selection of other rib-sticking Since Ismail Tosun left his Nedlands popular Chinese provincial dishes as well.winter dishes and we hop in with glee. A restaurant Eminem and took his pots and What it lacked in the past was a suitablesmall, complimentary slice of chicken liver pans to Melbourne, Turkish cuisine has wine list, but things have changed recently.parfait topped with grenache jelly and lost some impetus here in Perth. Alaturk The list was previously dominated by priceserved with fresh bread sets the scene. in Subiaco is new, however, and is trying (high) and not, as it should have been,We follow this with twice-baked Exmouth hard. It has a casual feel and there aretiger prawn souffle and chive butter ($23), many who are getting their Balkan/Turkish by appropriate wines for the food, anda delightful, warming, creamy-textured dish fix at this sizeable corner eatery. I’m one although there is still plenty of champagne,with an ethereal flavour of the sea, and the of a group that dines here and the entree Grange, Hill of Grace, classified Bordeauxaccompanying golden-coloured sauce is tasting plates fly out of the kitchen with lots reds et al, the latest selection has aunctuous and plentiful. of warm bread, dips, dolma, borek, zucchini wider choice of young, aromatic white fritters, marinated olives and grilled Turkish wines such as riesling, sauvignon blanc, Although we started with the parfait, we sausage. The sausage, unlike chorizo, is traminer, some fresh, lively rosés andcan’t resist double-dipping and order the subtly spiced and is a standout. simple, fruit-driven reds, which are moreMust charcuterie plate ($28). This dish sympathetic to both food and pocket. Theis a must at Must (excuse the pun) and Our main courses are well-orchestrated size of the list is daunting, however. It’s likemany customers travel great distances to kebabs of chicken and lamb, which are a novel. Phone (08) 9362 7551sample the jambon persille (jellied pork juicy with a crunchy exterior, but are servedhock), tapenade, pate en croute and with potato wedges, which are uninspiring. Above: Must wine bar. Potato and onion-filled pasta topped with66 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2010

the wine & spirit insiderNovember/December 2010 Issue 114 FREE COPYin this issueSummer Beers,New ReleasesandTOP 40Best Wine BuysUnder $20THE WINE & SPIRIT INSIDER IS { }EVERYONE CAN MAKE A DIFFERENCEA PROMOTIONAL GUIDE FROM THE www.oneplanetwine.comLIQUOR TRADE TO THE CONSUMER.Winestate PublishingABN 56 088 226 411

105 TASTED54 AWARDEDSUMMER BEERSWith summer coming, the blood gets thinner and we Matilda Bay Alphastart looking for lighter and cooler beverages to drink. Reserve Pale Ale HHH1/2This is where the lagers and pilsners come into their Bouquet of roasted malt andown, along with the pale ales and wheat beers. sweet fruit hops and big,But, as the first class comment says, “Fresh is best!” flavoursome palate showing nice level of bitterness.LOW CARB Tooheys Platinum& LIGHT BEER Extra Dry HHH Bridge Road Brewers Fresh, hoppy bouquet with Beechworth Pale Ale HHH13 TASTED fresh, citrusy flavours and Fruity hops on the nose mingle some yeasty/malty elements. with sweet malt. Interesting5 AWARDED palate - quite bitter, with raisined notes.\"If you are going to buy these PALE ALE Coopers 62 Pilsner HHH1/2make sure they are fresh,\" Matilda Bay Fat Yak Lovely clear, pale colour withadvised one judge. \"These beers 12 TASTED Pale Ale HHH a mild, malty bouquet. Slightlytend to be light in flavour so there 6 AWARDED Sweet caramel bouquet with more roasted characters on theis little room for error.\" These nicely balanced medium malty palate. Dry finish.should be served very cold on a A mixed bag of middle-of-the- bitterness on the palate. William Bull Brewery Redvery hot day,\" said another. road beers, with flavours \"all Angus Pilsner HHH1/2 over the place\", said one judge. Samuel Smith's Old Fresh, fruity hop nose withBellarine Brewing Co \"The consumers' perception is Brewery UK Pale Ale HHH slight barnyardy characters.Low Carb Bellarine that pale ale refers to the colour, Dark, rich and complex, Slightly sweet palate with goodBlonde HHH1/2 whereas it is reference to the with a very sweet, fruity nose level of bitterness.Dry and citrusy, with nice white use of unroasted malt, which and palate. Very flavoursome;head and fresh, bready aromas. changes the flavour profile.\" light bitterness.More yeasty characters on theclean palate. Bridge Road Brewers PILSNER Bling Beechworth IndiaTooheys Extra Dry HHH1/2 Pale Ale HHHH 10 TASTEDSlight fruity notes showing up Very dark amber hues, a fruity, 6 AWARDEDon the nose and a light, slightly sweet hop nose and a palatesweet and well-balanced array that has a malty body and good Solid class of drinkable beersof flavours on the palate. level of bitterness with a dry, with clean and fresh hops the lingering end. feature in the better examples.Carlton Low Carb NaturalSuperior Dry Lager HHH Little Creatures Bintang IndonesiaMild, nicely balanced, light Pale Ale HHH1/2 Pilsner HHH1/2golden lager with very delicate Light golden amber ale Pleasant, \"non-demanding\",flavours and a drying finish. showing a pleasing balance clean, fresh and malty style between sweet malt and fruity with light, honeyed flavoursPure Blonde Low hop characters. and medium bitterness.Carbohydrate PremiumLager HHH Mac's Brewery HopBig, hoppy nose and a floral/ Rocker New Zealandhoppy palate with lingering Pilsner HHH1/2malty characters. Attractive tropical fruit-like aromas lift off the nose. Quite a dry palate with some very nice fruity hop flavours.68 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

feature tastingJames Squire Pilsner HHHSmell of sultanas and malt.Creamy in the mouth, withlingering hop flavours.Matilda Bay BohemianPilsner HHHVery flavoursome, well-balancedpilsner with lingering hop flavours.DRAFT4 TASTED0 AWARDEDSmall, disappointing line-up ofdraught beers, suggesting thatthese are better off tap.AUSTRALIAN/ Gage Premium Lager HHH McLaren Vale Grand Ridge Brewery YarraNEW ZEALAND Pleasant malty aromas and Beer Company Valley Gold Ale HHH1/2LAGER good flavour profile with a Vale Ale HHHH1/2 Dark bronze colour with lovely dry hop finish. Very balanced - very pleasant chocolate/caramel malt-13 TASTED - easy-to-drink light golden ale. dominated nose and smoky3 AWARDED AUSTRALIAN/ Excellent level of hop fruitiness roasted caramel/malt flavours NEW ZEALAND ALE and malty sweetness leading filling the mouth.\"Talk about peaks and troughs,\" to a malt/hop finish.said one judge. \"Some big names 7 TASTED James Squire WORLD BEERare making beer to a price now.\" 4 AWARDED Golden Ale HHHHOverall quite disappointing. Mid-weight ale with light, 29 TASTED Here we see beer with bigger grainy malt aromas edged with 19 AWARDEDHahn Premium Lager HHHH malt and hop flavours, which sweet fruity notes that offerBright golden amber lager not surprisingly add more a very pleasant balance of \"Lots of exciting experienceswith nose and palate showing character to the beers. \"It attractive flavours. here,\" said a judge. \"The UK/a pleasant malt/hop balance comes down to drinkability,\" Scottish contingent showedlifted with floral esters. Has said one judge. up well.\" Others were affectedmild bitterness. by climate considerations: hot Bridge Road climates delivering light, crispBellarine Brewing Co Brewers Beechworth beers and cooler climes havingLonsdale Lager HHH1/2 Australian Ale HHHH1/2 more flavour. But fresh is bestLight, sweet malt nose and Yeasty ale haze and a big, with all beer.well-balanced palate with defined, sweet stone-fruitbready/yeasty flavours edged nose followed by a nicelywith some honeyed notes. balanced, very flavoursome palate with subtle hops and long, lingering aftertaste.Brenton Quirini Craig Schiller JUDGESManaging director of a Licensee/brewerwholesale liquor merchant for ‘Holdfast Hotel Mark Brabybusiness. Has worked in the Brewpub’, an SA Guest services managerwholesale liquor industry for 26 amateur brewing at the Adelaideyears and is past president of competition. Has spent Entertainment Centre.the Wholesale Liquor Merchants 20 years in hospitality Has spent 25 years inAssociation of SA. Distributor and as a microbrewer. hospitality, including 10and importer of more than 80 A regular judge at beer years judging amateurimported beer brands from 23 competitions. brewing shows.countries. Regular judge for Past president of theWinestate’s annual beer tasting. Adelaide Beer Club. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 69

SUMMER BEERSBelhaven St Andrews Bali Hai Indonesia Samuel Smith's Old Gribousine Blonde deScotland Ale HHHH1/2 Premium Lager HHH1/2 Brewery Organic UK Best Malonne Belgian BlondLovely nose smelling of sweet Pale golden lager; excellent Ale HHH1/2 Beer HHHchocolate and coffee. Well- condition. Light, malty palate Sweet malty nose and a good Floral/alcohol characters onbalanced roasted malt flavours with some residual sugar level of sweet hop fruitiness on the nose. Quite sweet on theon quite a lightweight palate sweetness and a citrus acid end. the palate, giving the ale rich, palate, with obvious clovewith a dry, fruity end. Estrella Galicia Spain fruity flavours. characters.Brugge Tripel Belgium Premium Lager HHH1/2Beer HHHH1/2 Some caramel-like aromas on Samuel Smith's Organic Mash Brewing West CoastBig, powerful, fruity nose with the nose and a lightly hopped/ Lager HHH1/2 Wheat Beer HHHtraces of spices and cloves. honeyed malt palate with a Pronounced hop characters on Sweet yeasty/bready noseLovely full-flavoured palate with fine, fruity finish. the nose, with a light dash of and slightly sour, but quiteplenty of character and lots of Fuller's ESB Champion sweet malt. Big hop/malt palate refreshing, citrus flavours onspicy/fruity hops and sweet malt. Ale HHH1/2 and a dry finish. the palate.Tiger World Acclaimed Sweet sherry aromas withAsia Lager Beer HHHH1/2 lots of crystal malt, and a well- Mexicali Cerveza Mexican FLAVOURED BEERPerfectly balanced pale gold balanced, medium-bodied palate Beer HHHbeer that has a pleasant with roasted malt flavours.. Grain-dominated nose with 8 TASTEDbalance of malts and hops Lucifer Belgian some maize characters, and a 5 AWARDEDon the nose and an excellent Beer HHH1/2 full-flavoured maize-like palate.flavour profile, with light fruit Unusual hop aromas - spices One judge described these ashop bitterness and a malty end. and cloves evident - and a Singha Thai \"a group of beers for the non-Asahi Super Dry Japan powerful hop fruit component Lager Beer HHH beer drinkers, where hop beerBeer HHHH to the palate. Pleasant nose smelling of bitterness may be an issue\".Fragrant, malty bouquet leading Peroni Nastro Azzurro corn and maize, and a lightly Citrus and honey flavours add ato a pleasant, refreshing, Italy Beer HHH1/2 hopped, sweet, malty palate. different dimension.lightweight palate with some Light, honeyed malt bouquet andsweetness but it's in balance. very light malt palate balanced WHEAT BEER Stone's OriginalLingering malt finish. with some residual sweetness Premium Alcoholic GingerCarlsberg Denmark and quite a dry hop end. 9 TASTED Beer HHHHBeer HHHH 6 AWARDED Delightfully crisp and freshVery pleasant light malt/hop Rosita Cerveza Artesanal ginger bouquet, followed by acombination on the nose and De Tarragona Spain Blond Some great examples at the top very refreshing, clean palatea nice balance of mid-weight Beer HHH1/2 end, with the European beers that fills up the mouth withflavours with a sweet/dry finish. Yeast and fresh malt aromas really standing out above the powerful ginger flavours.Dubuisson Cuvee des and a pleasant sweet rest. Benchmark styles here!Trolls Belgian Beer HHHH malt palate with some tart Carlton Dry Fusion LemonPleasant fruity hop/sweet malt astringency. \"Very Belgium-like.\" Hofbrau Munchen Premium Lager HHH1/2nose and a powerful, fruity Hofbrau German Hefe Strong lime/citrus nose andpalate tasting of stewed fruit and Weizen HHHH1/2 light-bodied palate infused withfinishing dry and quite hoppy. Big hit of spices and cloves on pronounced citrus flavours.Fuller's London Pride the nose, with cloves, bananasPremium Ale HHHH and nutmeg-like flavours filling up Radler Barefoot LemonSmells sweet and chocolaty the lovely long, balanced palate Lime Beer HHH1/2with a fruity lift and a smoky with its long, lingering finish. Clean, fresh lemon aromas andmalt edge. Balanced, medium- layers of lovely sweet malt/bodied, roasted malt palate has Maisel's Weisse Original lemon flavours on a nicelya dry, fruity finish. Weissbier HHHH balanced palate.Heineken Dutch Style Light amber colour. LovelyLager Beer HHHH sweet and fruity nose, followed Bellarine Brewing CoSweet, fruity aromas have by long, lingering, fruity/clove Queenscliff Ale Honeysome subtle hop characters, flavours which dominate the Wheat Beer HHHwith light hop and malt sweet malt palate. Malty/bready aromas and acharacters on the palate pleasant palate with a sweet,finishing dry and fruity. Bridge Road Brewers malty finish.Aldi Stores Santiago Hans Klopek's HefeCerveza Reserva Especial Weizen HHH1/2 Carlton Fusion Lime DryEl Salvador Beer HHH1/2 Light yeast haze with slight Premium Lager HHHPale gold beer with a bright, clove-like aromas. More cloves Almost like a brewedsweet, malty nose and a on the complex palate, with lemonade, with citrus/lemonsweeter malt-driven palate with some malt to balance. aromas and flavours.reserved bitterness. Maisel's Weisse Kristall Weissbier HHH1/2 Spicy clove bouquet and big clove palate with slightly sour, apple-like, flavours and long, balanced finish.70 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 71

372 TASTED189 AWARDEDNEW RELEASESOur biggest new releases tasting of the year offered up excellent Paul Conti Tuart La Bisebuys, with sauvignon blanc blends and rieslings the pick of the Vineyard Western Single Vineyardwhites and ’09 shiraz and ’08 cabernets the pick of the reds. Australia Chenin Adelaide HillsThere were lots of rosés on offer, with a style available to suit any Blanc 2010 HHH Arneis 2010 HHHpalate over summer. Watch out for merlot and the Mediterranean Delicate tropical aromas Very light, spicy nosevarietals for a different red wine experience. and slightly sweet, with a perfumed lift. balanced palate. Good Lightweight, citrusy length and depth of palate shows complexity estery flavours. $16 and grip. $19SPARKLING Gartelmann Quealy Senza Hunter Valley Nome Mornington10 TASTED Blanc de Blancs Peninsula Friulano4 AWARDED Brut 2004 HHHH 2009 HHH Bright green with a Savoury aromas andDiverse range of sound pleasant melon bouquet soft, fruity flavours withcommercial wines, showing toasty bottle nice balance from theranging from full and age notes, and with acid and oak. $22broad to green and light. a big, fresh, lemonyNot many shocks and the palate. Great aperitif SAUVIGNONbest offer nice drinking. style but drink soon. $35 BLANC Hardys Nottage Hill Cuvee Brut NV HHH 28 TASTED Soft, sweet-fruit aromas and light, simple palate 10 AWARDED with some apple characters and an acid The judges found grip. $10.99 far too many wines lacking varietal fruit and Palandri Vita Novus All Saints Bimbadgen Ridge intensity of flavour. \"It Frankland River Estate North East Semillon Verdelho seems that winemakers Blanc de Blancs Victoria Marsanne Chardonnay have lapsed into making 2009 HHH 2009 HHH1/2 2009 HHH neutral wines for the Steely, melon-like Lovely creamy/nutty Simple fruity nose - citrusy 'lunch' market,\" said one aromas and austere aromas and a fresh and and melon-like - and a judge. But as always melon/citrus flavours. elegant, spicy palate clean, well-balanced, spicy there were a few well Lots of crisp acidity. $25 with dry white flavours. palate. $15 worth trying. Good food wine. $20 OTHER WHITE VARIETALS & BLENDS 12 TASTED 5 AWARDEDSirromet Seven Overall a class without Peter SimicScenes Signature faults but also few great Editor/publisher WinestateCollection Granite highlights. Interesting Magazine. More than 30 years’Belt Sparkling to see this range of experience in the wine industry.Chardonnay Pinot diverse varietals. Formerly founding publisher ofNoir 2007 HHHH a US wine magazine, managerLight pink wine with of the SA Wine Informationperfumed strawberry Bureau, and wine educator witharomas and a bright, Regency College of TAFE invibrant palate with nice SA. Peter is also a regular winefruit and good yeast commentator on national radioautolysis. Excellent and television programs.structure and balance. $2772 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tasting The Black Chook SAUVIGNON Palandri Vita Novus PINOT GRIS Adelaide Hills BLANC Frankland River Sauvignon Blanc SEMILLON Margaret River 11 TASTED 2010 HHH Sauvignon Blanc 2 AWARDED Faultless wine with light, 9 TASTED Semillon 2009 HHHH grassy aromas and an 4 AWARDED Attractive fume style The judges expected estery varietal palate \"Overall these offer with lifted, spicy, grassy more from this class. with herbal notes. $17 an extra dimension fruit bouquet and lovely Too many simple, Bremerton to straight Australian balance of oak and fruit neutral wines. \"Maybe Langhorne Creek sauvignon blancs,\" said on the nicely put together some viticultural Sauvignon Blanc one judge. palate. 3-5 $25 and stylistic issues,\" 2010 HHH concluded one judge.Logan Orange Pleasant, water-white Wise Sea Urchin Greedy SheepSauvignon Blanc quaffer smelling and Margaret River Margaret River Outlook Hill2010 HHHH1/2 tasting of honeydew Pemberton Sauvignon Blanc Vineyard YarraLovely fresh, lifted, melon with a hint of Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2010 HHH Valley Pinot Grisherbaceous varietal fruit citrus. $17 Semillon 2010 HHHH Grassy-fresh nose and 2010 HHHaromas, leading to an Cuttaway Hill Nice range of aromas zippy palate with lychee Clean, well-made, crispexcellent full-flavoured Southern Highlands showing an elegant, flavours and spicy dry white with somefruit palate with a Sauvignon Blanc spicy lift. Lovely fresh elegance. Great lunch pear-like fruit showing apleasant spiciness. 2010 HHH and elegant palate with wine. 5+ $18 lovely floral lift. $21The wine is fresh, crisp, Pungent, herbaceous excellent balance andzippy and dry. $22 aromas and powerful astringent finish. Good Robert Oatley Holm Oak VineyardsBrangayne of varietal flavours of food wine. $18 Margaret River Tasmania Pinot GrisOrange Sauvignon canned peas and tropical Pemberton 2010 HHHBlanc 2010 HHH fruit. $20 Sauvignon Blanc Light pink wine withPleasant nose; smells Geoff Merrill Semillon 2009 HHH candied overtones to noseof bath salts with a Fruit Wickham Foothills Reserved aromas of and palate and pleasantTingle-like palate. Very Sauvignon Blanc cut grass and nettles. varietal characters. $25fresh aperitif style. $22 2010 HHH Flavoursome palate.Frog Belly Margaret Subdued nose with some Will drink well in 2-3 PINOT GRIGIORiver Sauvignon pungency, and pleasant years. $28.99Blanc 2010 HHH palate. Good light 9 TASTEDLight, grassy nose and summer quaffer. $20 5 AWARDEDvibrant flavours of green Lost Lake Singlepeas and citrus. Bright, Vineyard Pemberton Surprisingly, a strongerfresh wine. $20 Sauvignon Blanc class than the gris -Nepenthe Adelaide 2010 HHH although some did tendHills Sauvignon Crowd pleaser reeking towards the richer, riperBlanc 2010 HHH of tropical fruit salad and gris style. GenerallyElegant fruit nose with with sweet gooseberry there was goodsome sweaty/pungent and passionfruit 'crunchy' fruit on offernotes, and light, simple flavours. $20 with nice acid minerality.tropical flavours. $19.90 Saracen Estates Margaret River Beelgara Estate Sauvignon Blanc Range Pinot Grigio 2010 HHH 2010 HHH1/2 \"Quiet\" nose with an Some lovely elegant, asparagus background crunchy varietal fruit and a fresh, lively here. A touch tropical on fruit palate with crisp the nose and with fresh acidity. $24 citrus characters in the mouth. $8.95 JUDGESStephen John Greg Tilbrook Steve WarrickOwner/winemaker of Senior winemaker Watson Wine consultant. FormerlyStephen John Wines. More Wine Group. Former sales and marketingthan 30 years’ winemaking winemaker at Wynns manager for the Hamiltonexperience. Has judged Coonawarra winery for the Wine Group. Ten years’at Adelaide, National, and past five years. Previously experience working inBarossa wine shows. winemaker at Amberley McLaren Vale, CoonawarraRegular Winestate panellist Estate, Margaret River, for six and the Adelaide Hills. Hasand chairman of judges at years. Completed a vintage judged at the Adelaide,the Winestate Wine of the in Languedoc, France. McLaren Vale and HobartYear Awards. wine shows. The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 73

NEW RELEASESThe Black Chook Boston Bay Riesling Sirromet SevenAdelaide Hills Pinot 2010 HHHH1/2 Scenes SignatureGrigio 2010 HHH The nose brims over Collection GranitePungent tropical nose with lovely riesling Belt Viognierand nicely textured characteristics of limes 2007 HHHHpalate with light, simple and roses. In the mouth Intense sweet melonfruit flavours and high it's crisp, elegant and aromas mingling withacid. $17 somewhat austere, fresh oak. Big, powerful, with lovely texture white Burgundy palate and structure. Good - quite oaky, with alert potential. 5+ $18 acid and a prickle of heat. $27 Elderton Eden Valley Riesling Shelmerdine 2010 HHHH1/2 Heathcote Viognier Light, spicy varietal fruit 2010 HHH aromas with very nice Lifted, fresh, spicy aromas citrusy elements. Very and big, nicely balanced, dry palate - perfumed dry white palate with a and fruity, with a long citrusy edge. $29 mineral acid finish. Excellent cellaring Punt Road Napoleone potential. 5+ $19 Vineyards Yarra Valley Viognier Taylors St Andrews Reillys Ryder Seppeltsfield 2009 HHH Clare Valley Riesling Watervale Clare Glenpara Elm Walk Reserved nose with 2010 HHHHH Valley Riesling Eden Valley Riesling some stone-fruits Delightfully delicate, 2010 HHHH 2010 HHH peeking through. Very green wine with lifted, Excellent green colour, Nose has broad floral light, fresh and simple spicy lime aromatics and lovely spicy lime/lemon overtones. Similar palate. Drink now. $25 a soft, citrus-driven palate bouquet and zippy, fresh, characters on the palate, with excellent flavour spicy/floral flavours with a with some crunchy VERDELHO intensity and nice touch suggestion of sweetness acidity. 3-5 $19Taylors Promised of spice. Excellent acid and finishing dry. $12 7 TASTEDLand South structure. Will develop Moppity Vineyards 1 AWARDEDAustralia Pinot well. 5+ $35 Palandri Vita Hilltops RieslingGrigio 2010 HHH Novus Frankland 2010 HHH Some borderline winesAttractive honeyed River Riesling Big, powerful, lifted here, with just onecitrus fruit aromas and 2008 HHH1/2 lime juice aromas. Very showing the way!light, lingering, well- Estery nose - smells like dry, flavoursome palatebalanced crunchy fruit limes and bath salts - and high in acid. A keeper. Clovely Estateflavours. $13 intense lime juice palate White Label South that's developing well 5+ $22.99 Burnett Verdelho and has a crisp end. $25 2010 HHH1/2Serafino Bellissimo Clos Clare Broad, citrusy nose withAdelaide Hills Pinot Moppity Vineyards Watervale Riesling nice aromatics, andGrigio 2010 HHH Lock & Key Single 2010 HHH simple, spicy palate withSmells of ripe lychees Vineyard Hilltops Simple citrus/green zippy acidity. Very easyand has a very attractive Riesling 2010 HHH apple nose, with similar to drink! $14palate; simple and clean. Fresh nose packed with characters on the palateNice quaffer. $18 rose petals and limes, showing a sweet edge. SEMILLON and a great flavoursome SAUVIGNONQuealy Mornington palate with spicy 3-5 $24 BLANCPeninsula Pinot elegance. $14.99Grigio 2009 HHH VIOGNIER 12 TASTEDRich, spicy bouquet and Shelmerdine 8 AWARDEDwell-textured, honeyed Heathcote Riesling 6 TASTEDpalate with good acidity. Even better!More gris-like. $25 4 AWARDED Semillon is an obvious addition to sauvignon 2010 HHH Small but good class of blanc, giving more Loads of character; a varietal wines with nice flavour and consistency. spicy, aromatic wine structure overall. Great quaffer, with aRIESLING that's a nice alternative good percentage here Sandbar Estate to the fresh, lime juice Berton Vineyard being recommended.21 TASTED Victoria Riesling styles. 3-5 $24 Metal Label The12 AWARDED 2007 HHHH1/2 White Viognier Great colour with 3 Drops Mount 2010 HHHH1/2Excellent class with lots of wonderful rich nose of Barker Riesling Gorgeous green colouraustere, elegant rieslings tropical fruits and citrus. 2010 HHH with a fragrant floralthat will simply get better Beautiful palate - spicy Reserved, pungent bouquet showing a nicewith age - one of the few and complex and with citrus aromas and lovely apricot lift. Fleshy inwhite varietals that you great depth of honeyed, austere lime flavours the mouth and drivencan say this about. viscous, sweet lemon on a nicely structured by sweet apricot/peach flavours. Lovely! $15 palate. $22 fruit. Long, lingering, spicy finish. $9.9974 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tasting Fraser Gallop Estate Churchview CHARDONNAY Margaret River Silverleaf Margaret Semillon Sauvignon River Semillon 30 TASTED Blanc 2010 HHHH Sauvignon Blanc 22 AWARDED Smells of tinned peas 2010 HHH and cut grass and is Powerful, sweaty nose Welcome back, followed by a punchy, with a herbaceous lift. chardonnay! Strong class flavoursome, tropical Simple palate - lots of with a true gamut of styles fruit palate that has acid. Give it a couple of from vibrant and youthful plenty of weight and years. $12.50 to powerful and complex, length. 3-5 $20 well-crafted wines. Now Cuttaway Hill is the time to rediscover The Growers' Southern Highlands these classic wines, which Peppermint Grove Semillon Sauvignon offer more than some of Western Australia Blanc 2010 HHH the lighter varieties. Semillon Sauvignon Simple, pleasant lunch Blanc 2010 HHH1/2 wine with reserved Caledonia Australis Elegant lemon rind nose grassy/citrus aromas and Reserve Leongatha with a light asparagus-like light, dry palate. $20 Gippsland lift. Very flavoursome, Chardonnay fruity palate with crunchy Vasse Felix Margaret 2008 HHHHH acid. 5+ $14.95 River Classic Dry Great oaky nose White 2010 HHH with delicate aromas Quarisa Johnny Light, fresh and spicy on of peaches in theWarburn Estate Q Adelaide Hills Sylvan Springs Dirty the nose and an intense background and excellentGossips Semillon Semillon Sauvignon Girl's McLaren Vale citrus palate with crisp intensity of stylish sweetSauvignon Blanc Blanc 2010 HHH White 2010 HHH acid finish. 3-5 $20 peach flavours with2010 HHHH Lovely concoction of Dry, austere style with balancing oak and dryingFresh melons and cut fresh lemon, pear and light, grassy aromas astringency. Quite hot.grass aromas lift out of apple aromas and a and simple lime/citrusthe glass. Palate has a fleshy, citrus palate with flavours. Excellent 5+ $47.95creamy middle with good sweet edges. $11.99 quaffer. $12.99flavour depth and dryingastringency. Good foodwine. 3-5 $5.50 Ri c h ard. . . Richard Hamilton Sauvignon Blanc Semillon the perfect dinner guest. Cnr Main & Johnston Rds, McLaren Vale SA 5171 p: 08 8323 8830 e: [email protected] w: www.leconfieldwines.com The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 75

NEW RELEASESHardys Eileen Lost Lake Barrel Gilberts 3 Devils Trentham EstateHardy Chardonnay Selection Pemberton Mount Barker Yarra Valley2008 HHHHH Chardonnay Chardonnay ChardonnayBeautifully complex 2009 HHHH 2010 HHH 2008 HHHand very powerful, old- Light golden wine with Melons and citrus on the Almost treacley melonfashioned style bursting the nose showing nose and sweet, estery, nose, and stylish, fruitwith soft, vibrant, generous fruit and toasty/ melon flavours with a salad-flavoured palatemelon-like fruit, layered buttery development. touch of gooseberry. $17 that appears sweet. $30with creamy malo Palate a seamless balance Geoff Merrill Pimpalacharacters and drying of oak, fruit and acid. Road South Australia ROSÉspicy/nutty oak. $74 Chardonnay 3-5 $35 2007 HHH 29 TASTEDSirromet Seven Developed, smoky 16 AWARDEDScenes Signature Palandri Vita melon rind bouquet Impressive numberCollection Granite Novus Frankland and soft, simple, melon of rosés, with stylesBelt Chardonnay River Margaret River palate with toasty aged ranging from light2009 HHHH1/2 Chardonnay elements. $14.50 and bright, very dry toLovely full-flavoured style 2008 HHHH Hardys HRB D643 semi-sweet and to thewith creamy, nutty-like Light, nutty, barrel Pemberton Yarra fuller - verging on dry redaromas and soft, toasty ferment lift to the ripe, Valley Chardonnay - wines. A confusing line-oak flavours with delicate stone-fruit nose. Palate 2008 HHH up to judge. Consumerscitrus overtones that big, rich and oily, with Powerful wine beautifully need to read the reviewslinger on the finish. Easy- loads of oak/peach layered. \"Artisan carefully to determinedrinking style. $27 flavours and a citrus acid winemaking here.\" which wines to try.Robert Oatley backbone. 5+ $35 Nice aged charactersCraigmoor AC 1 Beach Head by developing. $32.99 SeppeltsfieldMudgee Chardonnay Evans & Tate Credaro Margaret Forester Estate Glenpara Lost Garden2009 HHHH Classic Margaret River Chardonnay Margaret River Barossa Valley RoséMix of smoky oak, River Chardonnay 2010 HHH Chardonnay 2010 HHHHmelon fruit and barrel 2009 HHH1/2 Light, lifted lime nose 2009 HHH Rich raspberry aromasferment aromas. White nectarine nose and sweet, simple, lime/ Reserved complexity of and well-balanced palatePalate has structure with slight creamy/ nectarine palate with aromas and subtle fruit with good concentrationand texture, with oak a nutty characters. Similar good acid balance. $16 palate - very elegant and of dry red flavourslittle dominant but crisp palate, with cleansing After Hours Margaret stylish. $30 supported by a crisp acidmelon fruit underneath. acid on the finish. $18.99 River Chardonnay Bremerton backbone. $19 2009 HHH Reserve Langhorne 3-5 $28.99 Matilda's Vineyard Unctuous pulp and Creek ChardonnayBrangayne of Western Australia melon rind bouquet and 2009 HHHOrange Isolde Chardonnay soft and unusual sweet Creamy and buttery nose,Reserve Chardonnay 2009 HHH1/2 fruit flavours with high and long, lingering, high-2009 HHHH Pleasant peaches and level of oak. $25 acid flavours showingSmells of melons, with cream aromas, with creamy notes. $32cashew-like characters the peach characters Clovely Estatein the background. Fresh echoed on the palate White Label Southcitrus flavours persist with its alert acid and Burnett Chardonnaythe length of the palate, oak overlay. $35 2008 HHHwith appropriate oak to Nutty aromas overlaidbalance. $30 Wise Sea Urchin with melons. Similar Margaret River palate, with interesting Chardonnay nutty oak edges and hot 2010 HHH end. $14 Ripe, simple, varietal Fermoy Estate fruit bouquet and big, Geographe Vineyards warm, flavoursome Chardonnay palate. Crowd pleaser 2010 HHH for drinking now. $18 Delicate tropical fruit varietal characters with Harcourt Valley nice citrus acid overtones. Vineyards Bendigo Very elegant style. $16 Chardonnay 2010 HHH Combination of cashew and melon aromas. Quite an oaky palate, with pleasant dry white flavours. $20 Gartelmann Classic Hunter Valley Chardonnay 2009 HHH Sweet white peach nose with yeasty complexity, and light, butterscotch palate with alert acid. $3076 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tasting Saracen Estates Niche Margaret River Tenafeate Creek Margaret River Rosé Rosé 2010 HHH One Tree Hill 2010 HHH1/2 Brilliant pink wine Sangiovese Rosé Pleasant, perfumed, with reserved red fruit 2010 HHH candied bouquet and aromas and a vibrant Rose petal pink wine softly textured palate with berry palate. $14.95 with bright berry aromas cherry and strawberry and obvious sweet fruit flavours. $20 Claymore Wines flavours with acid to Jane Brook Plain Whole Lotta Love balance. $18 Jane Western Clare Valley Rosé Frog Belly Margaret Australia Classic 2010 HHH River Rose of Syrah Rosé NV HHH Nicely integrated 2010 HHH Lovely tangerine colour, stone-fruit aromas and Fresh red cherry delicate, savoury aromas a very flavoursome light aromas and good palate and soft palate with nice red palate. Good food weight with very dry, range of flavours. $15 wine. $15 tart, cranberry-like Churchview flavours. $20 Silverleaf Margaret Beach Head by Milhinch Wines River Rosé 2010 HHH Credaro Margaret Seize the Day Some herbaceous notes River Fragola Rosé Single Vineyard to the nose, and a lolly- 2010 HHH Barossa Valley Rosé like palate with a drying Crisp, dry rosé with 2010 HHH finish. $12.50 cellaring potential. Fuller style, with broad, Geoff Merrill Pimpala Reserved red fruit dry red aromas andGreedy Sheep Richard Hamilton Road South Australia aromas and clean fruit pleasant balance ofMargaret River Rosé Gida's McLaren Vale Rosé 2010 HHH flavours. 3-5 $16 sweetness and fruit2010 HHHH Rosé 2010 HHH1/2 Delicate cranberry and flavours. $20Broad, candied fruit Smells like sweet red raspberry-like bouquet, Reillys Clare Valleyaromas with a lovely lollies and has a nicely and a fleshy, sweet, fruit- Rosé 2010 HHHperfumed lift. Nicely weighted palate with driven palate. $14.50 Pretty, salmon pinkbalanced palate with broad, sweet fruit wine with red cherry/solid sweet fruit flavours, flavours. Drink now and cranberry aromassome astringency and a enjoy. $15.50 and flavours and nicesavoury finish. $18 delicacy. $18 wines of distinction “Peter, what’s the best wine you’ve ever made?” AND THE TRUE INNOVATOR’S ANSWER:- ‘I HAVEN’T MADE MY BEST WINE YET?” DISTRIBUTORS Melbourne - Westwood Wine Agencies Ph: 03 9686 9125 Tasmania - David Johnstone & Associates Ph: 03 6234 9999 Sydney - Australian Partners in Wine Ph: 02 96015896 To see full list of international distributors go to www.denniswines.com.au Cellar DoorKangarilla Road, McLaren Vale, follow the signs from Town Square. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm. Sat, Sun and Public Holidays 12noon-5pm phone (08) 8323 8665 fax (08) 8323 9121 email [email protected] website & orders www.denniswines.com.au The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 77

NEW RELEASESProtero Gumeracha Robert Oatley Winter Creek Old Sedona Estate Penny's Hill MalpasAdelaide Hills Pinot Mornington Barossa Blend Yea Valley Merlot Road McLaren ValeNoir Rosé 2010 HHH Peninsula Pinot Noir Grenache Shiraz 2006 HHHH1/2 Merlot 2009 HHH1/2Reserved stewed berry 2009 HHH1/2 2006 HHHH Tawny-red wine with Great concentration ofnose and lovely long Fruity style full of fresh, Dark and earthy lovely developing dark plum and savourypalate with persistent unctuous, candied-like on the nose, and a cedary/earthy aromas aromas. Fleshy incherry flavours. $20 fruit with herbal/forestry nicely balanced palate and beautifully the mouth, with nice elements and a drying, developing well with integrated, supple palate depth and intensity ofHentley Farm acidic finish. $29.99 fresh varietal fruit starting to age very flavour. $19Barossa Valley flavours and zesty, nicely. Drink now orGrenache Rosé Spring Vale Melrose sherbet-like acidity. cellar. 3-5 $26 Grant Burge2010 HHH Freycinet Coast Hillcot BarossaNose developing smoky Tasmania Pinot Noir 5+ $25 Merlot 2009 HHH1/2elements. Nice depth 2010 HHH Elegant, austere styleof dry/sour fruit flavours Very pretty, spicy, Hentley Farm Dirty that's ideal for cellaring,with a drying finish. $23 cherry nose and nice Bliss Barossa Valley with excellent crisp range of sweet fruit Grenache Shiraz varietal fruit and cedaryPINOT NOIR flavours on a medium- 2009 HHH oak. $22 bodied palate. $22 Smells of candied12 TASTED raspberries. Fleshy Moppity8 AWARDED Koonara Bay of in the mouth, with Vineyards Hilltops Apostles Geelong generous raspberry Merlot 2009 HHH1/2Solid class. \"It was Pinot Noir 2009 HHH flavours. 3-5 $20 Full-flavoured merlotpleasing to see varietal Charry oak aromas over with sweet/savourycharacter rather than peppery blueberry fruit. Hentley Farm The characters and persistentjust dry reds,\" said Lovely balanced, zesty, Stray Mongrel tannins. Hold for a while!one judge. \"If the fruit varietal fruit palate. $20 Barossa Valleyweight is not there, Grenache Shiraz 5+ $22.99so be it,\" said another. Koonara Belle Amie Zinfandel 2009 HHH\"It's better to be true to Coonawarra Pinot Black cherry bouquet Flint's ofthe varietal rather than Noir 2009 HHH and sweet, fleshy, berry Coonawarra Trickycreative with aberration.\" Well-made, vibrant, fruit- palate with nice tarry oak Gate Coonawarra driven style with lovely elements. 3-5 $32 Merlot 2008 HHHMatilda's varietal flavour profile. $20 Boiled lolly aromas andVineyard Western MERLOT generous, sweet, spicyAustralia Pinot Noir Ant Moore Central berry flavours with drying,2009 HHHH Otago Pinot Noir 10 TASTED astringent finish. $20Lovely balance of 2008 HHHvibrant, lifted, berry Broad, sweet fruit 7 AWARDED Fermoy Estatefruit characters, zesty nose with savoury Margaret Riverfresh acid backbone and notes. Textured palate Merlot 2008 HHHsome interesting earthy with dry/sour cherry Ripe plum fruit mergeselements. $35 flavours. $32.95 with mellow cedary oak. Nice texture andHardys Eileen Matilda's Vineyard tannins. $30Hardy Pinot Noir Western Australia2008 HHHH Pinot Noir 2008 HHH OTHERVery nice savoury/smoky/ Solid, mid-weight wine RED BLENDSearthy bouquet leading with spicy red fruitto a nicely textured showing an earthy 7 TASTEDsour cherry palate with edge and menthol 4 AWARDEDmatching oak and an overtones. $35astringent, tannic finish. Diverse range of GRENACHE blends, resulting in a 3-5 $85 & BLENDS diverse range of styles, with Mediterranean 5 TASTED Strong group of wines, Serafino varietals predominating. 3 AWARDED with winemakers aiming McLaren Vale Merlot for varietal intensity 2009 HHHH Vindara Estate Small but interesting rather than over-oaked Broad, plummy aromas Broken Window class. Grenache offers a dry reds. There is a with elements of black Western Australia good alternative to the place for this varietal as olives. Nice balance of Red 2006 HHH mainstream styles. a stand-alone variety, cherry and blueberry Brooding nose despite some detractors. flavours with savoury- developing cigar box- like edge and a long, like aged characters, cleansing finish. $15 followed by a simple, flavoursome and mellow palate. $1378 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tasting Lost Lake Chain of Ponds Pemberton Red Sunning Hill Adelaide 2009 HHH Hills Sangiovese Simple style, with 2008 HHH1/2 powerful tarry oak/sweet Savoury nose with cherry nose and fresh, slight caramel element. youthful fruit flavours. $18 Powerful, unctuous Jane Brook Plain palate with dense, Jane Western sweet fruit flavours and Australia Classic drying oak. $18 Red 2008 HHH Fresh, lively wine with Preston Peak Single excellent cellaring Vineyard Sagrantino potential. Rich, chocolaty 2008 HHH1/2 fruit and charry oak. $15 Interesting wine with a meaty nose showing floral/violet nuances. More violets on the fleshy OTHER RED palate. 5+ $38 VARIETALS Bleasdale Second 18 TASTED Innings Langhorne Creek Malbec 10 AWARDED 2009 HHH Generous wine withAll Saints Estate Interesting mix of Serafino Bellissimo Serafino firm black fruits minglingWahgunyah Mediterraneans, with Adelaide Lagrein Bellissimo McLaren with black tea and oliveEstate Sangiovese winemakers beginning 2009 HHHH Vale Sangiovese characters. $15Cabernet 2008 HHH to get a handle on what Dense crimson/purple 2009 HHH1/2 Buller BeverfordSupple, medium-bodied they are offering. Some wine with young, black Cherry bouquet with a Durif 2008 HHHwine with seamless good results here, with plum fruit aromas touch of herbs. Firm, Scented plum nose andintegration of stone-fruit undoubtedly more to and excellent depth tannic palate with solid sweet, spicy, lolly palateand oak characters. $20 come in the future. of youthful, plum-like fruit and oak flavours with drying tannins and flavours with soft, furry and lingering finish. $18 warming alcohol. $13 tannins. 5+ $18Cnr Main & Johnston Rds, McLaren Vale SA 5171p: 08 8323 8830 e: [email protected]: www.leconfieldwines.com The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 79

NEW RELEASESSandbar Estate Matilda's Vineyard Harcourt ValleyVictoria Tempranillo Western Australia Sightings Cabernet2009 HHH Cabernet Merlot Sauvignon 2009 HHHElegant wine with firm Franc 2008 HHH Delicate herbal/berrydark cherry bouquet and Vibrant fruit well nose and ripe, sweettannic cherry palate. integrated with the oak fruit palate. HasLovely food wine. $15 and chewy tannins. character and offers easy Slight earthy notes. Has drinking. 3-5 $20Hentley Farm potential. 5+ $25Barossa Valley Schild Estate RangeZinfandel 2009 HHH Bleasdale Frank Potts Barossa CabernetIntense fruit cake-like Langhorne Creek Sauvignon 2009 HHHaromas and soft, fleshy Cabernet Sauvignon Unctuous dry redpalate full of rich, spicy Malbec 2007 HHH aromas with nicefruit. $32 Distinct red berry fruit with complexity of fruit/oak subtle use of new oak and flavours and tannins toClovely Estate Left bright acid. Drink now or balance. 3-5 $20Field South Burnett cellar. 3-5 $29Barbera 2008 HHH Moppity VineyardsLuscious, finely Lock & Key Singlestructured wine. Dark CABERNET Vineyard Hilltopsplum fruits mingle with SAUVIGNON Cabernet Sauvignonviolet and seaweed-like 2009 2009 HHHcharacters. $20 Simple plum fruit with 13 TASTED Taylors Promised light oak behind. Excellent Ben PottsAll Saints Estate Land South Australia flavours and some grippy Lenny's BlockRutherglen Durif 9 AWARDED Cabernet Sauvignon tannins. 3-5 $14.99 Langhorne Creek2008 HHH 2009 HHH Cabernet SauvignonSoft, easy-drinking style Flavoursome wine with Harcourt Valley 2006 HHHHHwith dense, almost powerful varietal fruit, a Vineyards Bendigo Intense, aged, stone-fruitporty, fruit and slight touch of mint and good Old Vine Cabernet bouquet - very complexsmoky/dark chocolate level of tannins and acid. Sauvignon 2009 HHH yet still bright and alert.notes. $25 Simple, elegant Excellent flavour depth 5+ $13 lightweight with vibrant with plenty of funky, aged,CABERNET sweet berry fruit and sweet fruit complexityBLENDS Beach Head by appropriate level of oak. and a powerful tannin Credaro Margaret finish. $409 TASTED River Cabernet 5+ $35 Koonara Ambriel's4 AWARDED Sauvignon 2009 HHH Gift Coonawarra Light, lifted wine with CABERNET Cabernet SauvignonSome of these showed vibrant cherry berry fruit SAUVIGNON 2008 HHHHoak planks or tannin balanced by sweet oak. 2008 & OLDER Solid, well-structuredaddition that did not Stylish! $16 wine - very oaky for nowdo justice to the fruit. Blue Pyrenees 29 TASTED but has some lovelyHowever, the better Cabernet Sauvignon varietal fruit pushingwines had integration 2009 HHH 15 AWARDED through, underscored byand flavour. Youthful and elegant mid- an alert acid backbone. weight wine with lifted Lots of varietal fruitWise Sea Urchin Swings & blackcurrant fruit and light and excellent tannin 5+ $30Geographe Margaret oak balance. $20 management here. StrongRiver Cabernet Roundabouts class, although a fewMerlot 2008 HHH1/2 Margaret River obviously suffered fromDefinitely one for the Cabernet Sauvignon the heat stress of thecellar with its lovely rich, 2009 HHHH1/2 2008 vintage, with tooripe, vibrant blackberry Classy wine with many having tartaric acidfruit, sweet oak and loads excellent bright purple addition resulting in dry/of tannins. 5+ $18 hues. Some lovely cassis sour or sweet/sour wines.Fraser Gallop Estate fruit aromas and a 'tidy', Hardys Thomas well structured palateMargaret River complete with fruit, Hardy Coonawarra Adelaide HillsCabernet Merlot fresh oak and vibrant Cabernet Sauvignon2009 HHH freshness. 5+ $32Cherry and berry 2006 HHHHH Beautifully warm, maturearomas mix with oak Harcourt Valley varietal with excellentand are followed by a Vineyards Bendigogood fresh cassis/oak Cabernet Sauvignon depth of colour, savoury 2009 HHH black olive-like fruit,palate. 3-5 $25 Very pleasant quaffer complex barrel ferment for drinking now. Light varietal fruit and plenty and attractive chocolaty of oak. $25 oak. Still plenty of years left in it. 5+ $11080 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER



NEW RELEASESBerton Vineyard Gilberts 3 Lads Fernando the Penny's HillHead Over Heels Mount Barker First Wrattonbully The SpecializedCoonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon McLaren Vale ShirazCabernet Sauvignon 2008 HHH1/2 2007 HHH Cabernet Merlot2008 HHHH Light, simple wine Developing dark fruit 2009 HHHLifted, dusty, cassis with closed but well- aromas with some funky Big wine. Mentholaromas with fresh vanillin integrated aromas and notes, and a firm, tannic mingles with slightlyoak beneath. Palate good depth of stewed palate with soft varietal jammy plum fruit andhas great structure and stone-fruit/oak flavours. fruit. $39.99 oak. Drink now or cellar.depth, with big sweet/sour fruit matched by the 3-5 $23 SHIRAZ 5+ $22oak tannins. $9.99 Grant Burge Corryton BLENDS Park Barossa SHIRAZ 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon 5 TASTED 2008 HHH1/2 3 AWARDED 18 TASTED Ripe cassis fruit nose 14 AWARDED and firm and complex Small but consistent berry/oak palate with group of nice drinkers. The judges were sweet chocolaty oak unanimous that this was tannins. $25 Bleasdale The a very exciting class Bleasdale Mulberry Broadside Langhorne showing lovely elegant Tree Langhorne Creek Shiraz and vibrant fruit with Creek Cabernet Cabernet Malbec appropriate oak balance. Sauvignon 2008 HHH 2008 HHH1/2 A vintage to look Beach Head by Rich, flavoursome wine Smells of blackberry and forward to, if these reds Credaro Margaret ready for drinking now menthol. Palate offers a are anything to go by! River Shiraz with its mature fruit and well-integrated mouthful 2009 HHHH1/2 spicy oak. $18 of solid, complex Well-made wine with Kimbolton Fig Tree flavours and ripe a fresh, lifted varietal Langhorne Creek tannins. 3-5 $15 fruit nose showing a Cabernet Sauvignon spicy edge, leading ontoMontgomery 2008 HHH a very rich, oaky, firmMargaret River Lovely fruit/oak nose tannic palate with plentyCabernet Sauvignon with a hint of mint, and of young fruit beneath.2007 HHHH pleasant dry red flavoursVery oaky wine with with a chocolaty edge. 3-5 $16spicy vanilla bouquet Richard Hamiltonand sweet nectarine fruit 3-5 $24 McLaren Vale Shirazflavours sitting under Forester Estate 2009 HHHHthe oak. Has structure Margaret River Lovely crimson wineand length and ageing Cabernet Sauvignon layered with powerfulpotential. 5+ $27 2008 HHH sweet oak and youthful, 'Moody', tarry cassis rich plum fruit, with fine,Minot Margaret nose and simple, Taylors Promised powdery tannins weavingRiver Cabernet straightforward Land South it all together. $18.50Sauvignon blackberry/oak palate Australia Shiraz2008 HHHH with soft tannins. $30 Aldi Stores 2009 HHHHHWarm, soft and Robert Oatley Marketgate South Fresh, vibrant, purplebeautifully mature wine Margaret River Australia Shiraz wine with seamlessdominated by toasty oak Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet 2009 HHH integration of spicybut has enough sweet 2008 HHH Medium-bodied redberry fruit weight to Clean, simple, varietal with solid, youthful fruitmatch. Offering good fruit nicely balanced by showing a nice spicydrinking now. $25 chocolaty oak and firm element. Dry finish. $6.99 tannins. Has potential.Palandri Vita Novus plums and charred oakMargaret River 5+ $36.99 aromas, followed byCabernet Sauvignon Bremerton Coulthard a gorgeous rich, plum2007 HHHH Langhorne Creek cake-like palate with aTarry/cherry aromas with Cabernet Sauvignon soft middle and light oaka leathery edge. Nicely 2008 HHH finish. 3-5 $13balanced sweet cassis/ Soft, spicy, berry nosefresh oak palate with and up-front leafy/berry fruit palate with drying oak. 3-5 $22firm tannins and someleathery age, but stillfresh. 5+ $3582 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

wine & spirit insider tastingRockBare Jarrah Ridge Winery Wise Sea Urchin Anvers The Warrior Fernando the FirstMcLaren Vale Shiraz Milly Milly Western Margaret River Adelaide Hills Wrattonbully Shiraz2009 HHHH Australia Shiraz Frankland River McLaren Vale 2007 HHHLovely nose smelling of 2009 HHH Shiraz 2008 HHH1/2 Langhorne Creek One for the cellar. Hasrich fruit cake. Beautiful Savoury/barnyardy aromas Some lovely reserved, Shiraz 2006 HHHH1/2 briary fruit with a darkrich, ripe, warm and and a slightly cooked, dark shiraz fruit here Excellent soft, rich, menthol edge, chewytoasty palate, soft and sweet berry palate. Nicely blended with seasoned chocolaty wine with oak and warming alcohol.flavoursome in the textured. $18 oak. Palate supple an abundance of agedmouth with a dry tannic and well structured. cherry fruit, well-handled 5+ $39.99finish. $21.95 Pepper Tree oak and attractive bottleHarcourt Valley Wrattonbully Shiraz 3-5 $18 age developing. Long, SWEET WHITEVineyards Bendigo 2009 HHH drying oak finish. $47Old Vine Shiraz Elegant, cool-climate, Blue Pyrenees 12 TASTED2009 HHHH vibrant crimson wine Leydens Vale Shiraz RockBare The Burvill 2 AWARDEDLovely lift and vibrancy showing a nice minty 2008 HHH McLaren Vale Shiraz Disappointing. Too manyof fresh fruit cake edge to the savoury Well-structured, elegant, 2006 HHHH had stale fruit or lackedaromas, with the vibrant fruit. $18 balanced wine with Big, warm-climate style fruit and acid vibrancy.fruit following onto the lovely spicy varietal fruit. with the bouquet showing But there were a couplenicely textured palate Lovegrove Drinking well now. $12 nice savoury elements. of excellent exceptionsand giving it depth of Yarra Valley Shiraz Similar palate; excellent to show the way.flavour. $35 2009 HHH Zonte's Footsteps flavour complexity,Harcourt Valley Interesting bacon rind/ Baron Von Nemesis toasty oak and strong Punt Road NehmeSightings Shiraz savoury biscuit aromas Barossa Valley tannins. $39.95 Vineyard Yenda2009 HHH1/2 and a supple, fleshy Shiraz 2008 HHH Botrytis SemillonSoft and very palate with spicy berry Elegant lunch wine with Rosenvale Vinevale 2009 (500ml) HHHHHflavoursome, 'drink fruits. $20 simple, raspberry-like Sands Barossa Gorgeous, lively, goldennow' shiraz with lovely fruit integrated with the Shiraz 2005 HHHH wine with luscioussweet fruit/dusty oak Were Estate spicy oak. $18.99 Mature, complex, tarry/ lychee-like bouquetcomplexity. Very classy Margaret River earthy aromas - still has followed by intensewine. $20 Shiraz 2009 HHH Beelgara Regional freshness. Excellent sweet apricot/pear fruitHarcourt Valley Stylish, elegant and Reserve Clare Valley palate structure with flavours. BeautifullyVineyards beautifully balanced Shiraz 2008 HHH nicely integrated tarry/ balanced, very complex,Barbara's Bendigo wine with powerful Dark, menthol-like fruit blackberry flavours textured palate. $32Shiraz 2009 HHH1/2 sweet fruit, fresh oak layered with oak and developing well. $30 CapercaillieSmoky/meaty edge to and cleansing acid. $22 acid. Slightly porty nose Sparkling Moscatothe sweet fruit nose, with and sweet, supple Palandri Vita Novus 2010 HHH1/2a very complex sweet/ SHIRAZ 2008 palate. $24.94 Frankland River Fragrant muscat aromassavoury palate that's Margaret River and light flavours onlively and fresh. $25 24 TASTED Palmer Reserve Shiraz 2007 HHH a sweet, effervescentLost Lake Single 7 AWARDED Margaret River Good fleshy shiraz with palate with great acidVineyard Pemberton Shiraz 2008 HHH lovely rich, ripe berry/ balance. Well-madeShiraz 2009 HHH1/2 Difficult class to judge, Great colour, big fruit plum fruit, toasty oak wine. $20Fresh, fruity quaffer with many wines cake-like fruit and sweet and warm, alcoholicwith a lovely balance exhibiting ripe, raisiny, oak. Powerful, hot and finish. 3-5 $35between the sweet, heatwave fruit from this intense wine. $48spicy fruit and oak on difficult vintage. Thosea fleshy, multi-layered that managed to avoid SHIRAZpalate. $25 those few hot weeks 2007 & OLDERGoose Island made better wines.by Serafino 16 TASTEDMcLaren Vale Shiraz Flint's of Coonawarra 6 AWARDED2009 HHH RostrevorRipe, porty nose and Coonawarra Shiraz Some very good winesfull-bodied, developed 2008 HHHH from the older vintagesfruit palate, high in acid Gorgeous dark chocolaty but too many raw-fruit,and with a drying oak nose and huge mulberry high-alcohol, unbalancedfinish. $13 jam palate with lovely '07 wines; a mixed bag.Moppity Vineyards chewy oak backboneLock & Key Single and long, lingering Hardys Eileen HardyVineyard Hilltops flavours. Very alluring! Shiraz 2005 HHHHHShiraz 2009 HHH Beautifully aged, veryLight, dry red style with 3-5 $22 flavoursome, seamlesslycellaring potential. Has integrated shiraz withnice brooding stewed fruit Palmer Margaret complex barrel fermentand matching oak. $14.99 River Shiraz characters, powerful oak 2008 HHH1/2 and an alcoholic finish. Huge, rich, fruit cake of Still has freshness, with a nose and lovely soft, lots of life ahead of it. rich, 'cuddly' palate full of flavour and with a hot 5+ $85 alcohol finish. $28.50 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 83

TOP 40Balgownie Estate Sam Miranda Snow Berton Vineyard DiGiorgio Family Raidis Estate CheekyPremium Cuvee Road King Valley Metal Label The Sterita Limestone Goat CoonawarraBrut NV Moscato 2009 White Viognier 2010 Coast Sauvignon Pinot Gris 2010Very pretty wine with Fragrant, aromatic Gorgeous green colour Blanc Semillon 2010 Distinct pear charactersdelicate citrus aromas muscat aromas and with a fragrant floral Lemon zest on the nose on the nose and a rich,and very fresh and sweet, luscious fruit bouquet showing a nice with subtle florals. rounded palate withflavoursome palate. $19 bomb of a palate. apricot lift. Fleshy in Palate is fresh and a tight structure and Refreshing style. $12 the mouth and driven simple - nice combination brimming over with by sweet apricot/peach of citrus and passionfruit rich, sweet stone-fruit fruit. Long, lingering, flavours. $14.99 flavours. $15 spicy finish. $9.99THE TOP 40 BEST BUYS LISTING TO QUALIFYis updated in each issue of The Wine & Spirit Insider. Some wines may - if they are 1 Wines must have first been recommended instill available - remain in the next issue’s Top 40 Best Buys group. Others will sell Winestate Magazine style or new release tastings. Styleout, or be replaced by higher-rated wines. Price is a major factor in selection. tastings are defined as varietal tastings - eg, shiraz,The Wine & Spirit Insider’s Top 40 Best Buys listing comprises the best wines chardonnay, etc. - or blended styles such as shiraz/currently available, from big-name brands and the higher volume ‘second labels’ cabernet wines.from the smaller producers, as tasted by Winestate Magazine panels. The Top 40Best Buys listing gives credit to the value wines in the marketplace - wines that 2 Wines from designated regional tastings arewould otherwise be overshadowed by their much more expensive cousins. eligible provided they are widely available.HOW IT WORKS 3 All wines must be currently available from the winery, or be readily available in many liquor stores.In each issue Winestate’s publisher Peter Simic selects the highest-rated winesat specific price points. All wines have previously been judged for Winestate by 4 No cellar door-only wines are eligible.panels of expert judges.84 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Beelgara Estate Taylors Promised Elderton Eden Valley Sandbar Estate Boston BayRange Pinot Land South Australia Riesling 2010 Victoria Riesling 2010Grigio 2010 Pinot Grigio 2010 Light, spicy varietal fruit Riesling 2007 The nose brims overSome lovely elegant, Attractive honeyed aromas with very nice Great colour with with lovely rieslingcrunchy varietal fruit citrus fruit aromas and citrusy elements. Very wonderful rich nose of characteristics of limeshere. A touch tropical on light, lingering, well- dry palate - perfumed tropical fruits and citrus. and roses. In the mouththe nose and with fresh balanced crunchy fruit and fruity, with a long Beautiful palate - spicy it's crisp, elegant andcitrus characters in the flavours. $13 mineral acid finish. and complex and with somewhat austere,mouth. $8.95 Excellent cellaring great depth of honeyed, with lovely texture potential. 5+ $19 viscous, sweet lemon and structure. Good flavours. Lovely! $15 potential. 5+ $18OTHER WHITE WINES Banrock Station Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Noir NV best buys Sweet and flavoursome, with creamy butterscotchAngas Brut Premium Cuvee NV notes and some beer-like characters. $9.50 20less thanLight golden wine with soft and fresh lemon/apple-like aromas and flavours. Nice acid balance. $8.95 De Bortoli Emeri Chardonnay Pinot Noir NV $ 'Pretty', fresh, pastry-like nose and zesty, flavoursomeBallast Stone Steeple Jack Chardonnay Pinot Noir NV palate with good varietal notes. $13Striking tangerine colour, red berry aromas andcreamy palate with lovely fruit expression. $11 Hardys Nottage Hill Cuvee Brut NV Soft, sweet-fruit aromas and light, simple palate withSirromet 820 Above Vineyard Selection Sparkling some apple characters and an acid grip. $10.99Chardonnay Pinot Noir NVSome nice toasty aged characters here. Quite a sweet The Black Chook Adelaide Hills Pinot Grigio 2010palate, loaded with ripe, creamy fruit. $17 Pungent tropical nose and nicely textured palate with light, simple fruit flavours and high acid. $17 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 85

TOP 40Seppeltsfield Clovely Estate White Churchview Silverleaf Warburn Bimbadgen RidgeGlenpara Elm Label South Burnett Margaret River Estate Gossips Semillon VerdelhoWalk Eden Valley Verdelho 2010 Semillon Sauvignon Semillon Sauvignon Chardonnay 2009Riesling 2010 Broad, citrusy nose with Blanc 2010 Blanc 2010 Simple fruity nose - citrusyNose has broad floral nice aromatics, and Powerful, sweaty nose Fresh melons and cut and melon-like - and aovertones. Similar simple, spicy palate with with a herbaceous lift. grass aromas lift out of clean, well-balanced,characters on the palate, zippy acidity. Very easy Simple palate - lots of the glass. Palate has a spicy palate. $15with some crunchy to drink! $14 acid. Give it a couple of creamy middle with goodacidity. 3-5 $19 years. $12.50 flavour depth and drying astringency. Good food wine. 3-5 $5.50TOP 40 Greedy Sheep Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc Reillys Ryder Watervale Clare Valley Riesling 2010 Excellent green colour, lovely spicy lime/lemon Semillon 2010 bouquet and zippy, fresh, spicy/floral flavours with a suggestion of sweetness and finishing dry. $12 Grassy-fresh nose and zippy palate with lychee flavours and spicy elegance. Great lunch wine. 5+ $18 La Bise Single Vineyard Adelaide Hills Arneis 2010 Geoff Merrill Pimpala Road South Australia Very light, spicy nose with a perfumed lift. Lightweight, Chardonnay 2007 citrusy palate shows complexity and grip. $19 Developed, smoky melon rind bouquet and soft, simple, melon palate with toasty aged elements. $14.50 De Bortoli Windy Peak King Valley Riesling 2009 Smells of citrus peel and citrus blossom with a Gilberts 3 Devils Mount Barker Chardonnay 2010 citrusy palate. A fresh, clean varietal. $14.90 Melons and citrus on the nose and sweet, estery, melon flavours with a touch of gooseberry. $1786 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Beach Head Fermoy Estate Sam Miranda The Musician Auldstone CSMby Credaro Geographe Snow Road by Majella Glenrowan CabernetMargaret River Vineyards King Valley Alpine Coonawarra Cabernet Shiraz Merlot 2006Chardonnay 2010 Chardonnay 2010 Valley Cabernet Shiraz 2009 Nose of blackcurrantLight, lifted lime nose Delicate tropical fruit Merlot 2009 Big and soft with loads of pastilles and allspice.and sweet, simple, lime/ varietal characters Sweet berry nose - a lovely bright cassis/plum Spicy palate with oldernectarine palate with with nice citrus acid touch jammy - with oak varietal fruit balanced by oak influence and somegood acid balance. $16 overtones. Very elegant dominating the lean, the powerful toasty oak leafy notes. $19 style. $16 herbal palate with tight and supported by a silky tannins. $12 tannin backbone. Years ahead of it. 5+ $17Quarisa Treasures Padthaway Chardonnay 2008 Flint's of Coonawarra Tricky Gate Coonawarra best buysRich, bright, golden wine with powerful varietal fruit, Merlot 2008 2150less thansoft toasty/roasted nut-like oak elements and a long, Big, bright, fruit-driven - lovely crimson colour with $lingering finish. 3-5 $14.99 purple hues. Has subtle cedary oak and long, silkyOTHER RED WINES tannins. Good cellaring potential. 5+ $18Plantagenet Omrah Great Southern Pinot Noir 2009 Buller Black Dog Creek King Valley CabernetPeppery plum nose with a spicy lift and a savoury Merlot 2008palate showing a lovely subtle use of oak. $18 Light prune aromas and warm palate with mouthfilling tannins, good flavour concentration and a drying finish. $15Rose Hill Estate King Valley Merlot 2008 Wangolina Station Mt Benson Limestone CoastLifted minty/eucalypt nose and austere but well- Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2008balanced palate with simple dry red flavours. $18 Medium-bodied wine with bright plum fruit with an attractive earthy element. A touch simple for now. $14 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 87

TOP 40Karatta 12 Mile Quarisa Treasures Berton Vineyard Wehl's Taylors PromisedVineyard Robe Coonawarra Cabernet Head Over Heels Mount Benson Land SouthShiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Coonawarra Cabernet Vineyards Cabernet AustraliaSauvignon 2006 A powerfully rich, ripe, Sauvignon 2008 Sauvignon 2007 CabernetBig, rich plum pudding full-flavoured varietal Lifted, dusty, cassis An opulent cassis nose Sauvignon 2009of a nose and an with loads of cassis aromas with fresh with a lovely minty/leafy Flavoursome wine withoak-dominated palate and blackberry fruits, vanillin oak beneath. character, some fruit powerful varietal fruit, a- very cedary but has a big hit of dusty oak Palate has great sweetness on the palate touch of mint and goodenough fruit weight and and a mouthful of fine structure and depth, mixing with grippy tannins level of tannins and acid.sweetness to match. tannins. $14.99 with big sweet/sour and spicy oak. RobustDrying tannins. $15 fruit matched by the oak mid-palate. $19.50 CD 5+ $13 tannins. $9.99TOP 40 Pepper Tree Wrattonbully Coonawarra Cabernet Lobethal Road Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2007 Bright, lifted cassis nose and firm, light-bodied palate Sauvignon 2008 with a seamless balance of fruit and fine tannins. Gorgeous deep crimson wine with a spicy rhubarb/ 3-5 $18 plum bouquet and lovely rich varietal fruit leading Pepper Tree Wrattonbully Shiraz 2009 Elegant, cool-climate, vibrant crimson wine showing the well-structured palate. Nice dusty/vanillin oak, a nice minty edge to the savoury fruit. $18 good acidity and fine tannins. 3-5 $18 Zonte's Footsteps Baron Von Nemesis Barossa Valley Shiraz 2008 Jarrah Ridge Winery Milly Milly Western Elegant lunch wine with simple, raspberry-like fruit Australia Shiraz 2009 integrated with the spicy oak. $18.99 Savoury/barnyardy aromas and a slightly cooked, sweet berry palate. Nicely textured. $1888 The Wine & Spirit INSIDER

Bleasdale Aldi Stores Wise Buller Black Dog Jip Jip RocksThe Broadside Marketgate South Sea Urchin Creek King Valley PadthawayLanghorne Creek Australia Shiraz Margaret River Shiraz 2008 Shiraz 2009Shiraz Cabernet Cabernet 2009 Frankland River Well-structured wine Very alcoholic with a big,Malbec 2008 Medium-bodied red Shiraz 2008 with great length of spicy peppery lift to the noseSmells of blackberry and with solid, youthful fruit Some lovely reserved, varietal fruit showing a and complex licoricementhol. Palate offers a showing a nice spicy dark shiraz fruit here, dash of black pepper and flavours with velvetywell-integrated mouthful element. Dry finish. $6.99 blended with seasoned lots of chocolaty oak to tannins. $16.95of solid, complex oak. Palate supple balance. $15flavours and ripe and well structured.tannins. 3-5 $15 3-5 $18Editor & Publisher Issue 114 | November/December 2010 best buysPeter Simic E-mail: [email protected] WINESTATE is published seven times a year by WINESTATE 2150less thanManaging Editor PUBLISHING PTY LTD, 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. $Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] Copyright 2010 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. ThisAdministration publication may not, in whole or in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronic medium orVicki Bozsoki E-mail: [email protected] machine-readable form without the express permission of theArt Director publisher. Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumes no responsibility for theRenate Klockner E-mail: [email protected] effects arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411Marketing Manager Winestate Publishing Pty Ltd.Peter Jackson E-mail: [email protected] Telephone (08) 8357 9277Marketing Coordinator Facsimile (08) 8357 9212 E-mail [email protected] Lumb E-mail: [email protected] Website www.winestate.com.auWinestate Web SiteJustin Martin E-mail: [email protected] DAI Rubicon The Wine & Spirit INSIDER 89



how we judge WINESTATE MAGAZINETASTING CRITERIA Independence of advertising Winestate will occasionally purchase ‘yardstick’ wines to be evaluated where we believe that these are of consumer or trade interest if these have not been entered by the wineries. In order to produce the biggest and best wine magazine, Winestate includes advertising; however, this is fiercely independent of any wine tasting editorial. Wine companies are advised of the blind tasting results and it is their choice to advertise if they wish. The judges’ decisions are final and these are published according to the judges’ scores, whetherstar rating system advertising is taken or not. The judges We take care in selecting our judges. But remember: judges are human and their ownOUR TASTINGS AND PUBLISHED ratings excellent wine; bronze is 15.5 and above preference will influence their scores. We useare designed with one thing in mind: to and represents good wine. A reasonable, judges with complementary backgroundsprovide a useful and genuine balanced sound everyday-drinking wine scores 15 and a three-person panel for each flight willguide on wines to our readers. In order to (but does not gain a medal). A bland but include winemakers with technical expertiseachieve this we follow certain procedures clean wine scores 14. Below this score there and often a marketing/retail expert whoin an activity that is notoriously difficult! are unpleasant flavours. These final ‘medals’ knows consumer tastes. Often one or moreThere are regular criticisms of wine shows are then converted into a star rating system of the judges are Masters of Wine with vastand various scoring systems; here is how for publication in Winestate. A gold means international experience, and most judgeswe approach our tastings. 5 stars, silver is 4, and bronze is 3 stars. have experience at major Australian wineA wide selection of wines The biggest judging system shows. We are also aware of expertise. If we are judging a region, for example,Wines are invited from any producer, Winestate examines on average more we will have a winemaker judge from thatprovided that they meet the criteria of the Australasian wines per year than any other region because that person knows the localclass being judged. The class may be a forum - more than 10,000. Compare this to the style. We may balance that with a judge fromregional or style tasting and generally the biggest show in Australia, the Royal Melbourne outside the region and generally someonewines must be available for consumers to Wine Show, with just over 4000 entries. with broad and mature experience.purchase, although we have museum andrare wine tastings as well. how we compareAwarding scores Winestate Wine show International 100 Point Rating MedalWinestate carries out the judging Comment Gold 20 Point System Systemusing Australian capital city wine show HHHHH Outstanding High Silverprocedures; the wines are not known to HHHH1/2 Excellent Silver 18.5 - 20 93 - 100the judges. The three judges taste the HHHH Very Goodwines blind and assign a score without 18 - 18.4 90 - 92 17 - 17.9 85 - 89reference to each other. Only then do they HHH1/2 Good/Very Good High Bronze 16.5 - 16.9 83 - 84compare scores, and if there is dissension HHH 15.5 - 16.4 78 - 82they re-taste the wines and come to an Good Bronzeagreement. Scores are compiled using the20-point international system: a gold is 18.5 Wine judging is an inexact art, not a science - even at the highest levels of proficiency.and above; silver is 17 and above and is Accordingly, Winestate uses the star rating system which reflects a range, rather than a specific point score. Point systems indicate a level of accuracy that simply does not exist. November/December 2010 W I N E S TAT E 91

what’s it worth? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium. 1996 $95 2005 $48 2000 $70 1982 $240 1996 $60 1994 $75 1997 $75 2006 $55 2001 $110  1983 $240 1997 $40 1995 Not Released 1998 $110 2002 $95 1984 $210 1998 $60 1996 $95 1999 $90  2003 $75 1985 $250 1999 $36 1997 $65 2000 $95 2004 $75 1986 $350 2000 $40 1998 $85 E & E Black 2001 $80 1987 $210 2001 $30 1999 $75Pepper Shiraz 2002 $70 1988 $310 2002 $40 2000 $801990 $85 GREENOCK CREEK 1989 $240 2003 $30 2001 $701991 $90 2003 $80 Roennfeldt Rd 1990 $460 2004 $30 2002 $651992 $56 2004 $75 Shiraz 1991 $400 2005 $40 2003 $601993 $65 2005 $85 DE BORTOLI 1992 $350 2006 $35 2004 $601994 $65 Noble One (375ml) 1995 $370 1993 $300  2005 $601995 $65 1996 $320 1994 $3401996 $110 2006 $100  1990 $45 1997 $190 1995 $3401997 $70 2007 $90 1991 $40 1998 $380 1996 $5001998 $100 1999 $180 1997 $3201999 $75 1992 $25 2000 $220 1998 $5202000 $75 CLARENDON HILLS 1993 $30 2001 $240 1999 $3802001 $70 Astralis Shiraz 1994 $46 2002 $400 2001 $3602002 $85 1994 $220 1995 $38 2003 $200 2002 $4402003 $60 1996 $50 2004 $350 Georgia’s Paddock2004 $65 1995 $210 1997 $35 1990 $1102005 $70 1996 $300 1998 $45 1991 $60  1997 $250 1992 $80 Chardonnay 1993 $95 Art Series  1998 $320 1999 $30 Roennfeldt Road 2004 $520 1994 $85 1999 $310 2000 $35 Cabernet 2005 $350 1995 $75 1990 $60 2001 $24 Sauvignon 1996 $70 1991 $70 2000 $270 2002 $45 1997 $65 1992 $75 2001 $300 1995 $300 Hill of Grace 1998 $90 1993 $68 2002 $330 2003 $24 1996 $200 Magnum 1999 $70 1994 $85  BASS PHILLIP 2003 $210 2004 $25 1997 $165 2000 $75 1995 $110Premium Pinot Noir 2004 $350 2005 $30 1998 $320  1980 $480 2001 $80 1996 $651990 $80 1999 $220 1981 Not Released 2002 $85 1997 $1001991 $100 2005 $320 2006 $30 2000 $210 1982 $530 2003 $80 1998 $70 2001 $250 1983 $550 2004 $75 1999 $851992 $120 CLONAKILLA Elderton 2002 $260 1984 $420 2005 $65 2000 $75 1985 Not Released 2006 $65 2001 $901993 $100 Shiraz Viognier Command Shiraz 1986 $950 2007 $60 2002 $851994 $120 2003 $100 1995 $95 1990 $65 1990 $120 2004 $95 1991 Not Released 2005 $751996 $115 1993 $65 1992 $75 1987 $650 2006 $70 1994 $85 1988 $5001997 $180 1995 $65 1993 $65 Grossett 1989 $6501998 $110 Polish Hill Riesling 1990 $8501999 $140 1996 $100 1994 $95 1990 $55 1991 $600 1995 $75 1991 $45 1992 $5802000 $110 1997 $130 1996 $95 1992 $45 1994 $750 1998 $150 1993 $45 2001 $100 1999 $55 1997 $80 1994 $452002 $145 1995 $50 Cyril Henschke2003 $110 2000 $65 1998 $90 1996 $45 1990 $95 Majella 1999 $60 1997 $60 1991 $852004 $120 2001 $130 2000 $70  1998 $45  1992 $85 The Malleea Shiraz 2002 $120 1999 $45 1993 $802005 $80 2003 $110 2001 $80 2000 $35 1994 $85 Armagh Shiraz Cabernet2007 $90 2001 $45 1995 $70 1990 $220 1996 $70 2004 $120 2002 $90 2002 $55 1996 $150 1991 $180 1997 $482008 $95  2005 $120 2003 $70 2003 $45 1997 $70 1992 $120 1998 $95 2004 $80 2004 $45 1998 $140 1993 $110 1999 $50 2006 $100 2005 $65 2005 $50 1999 $75 1994 $130 2000 $42Best’s Thomson 2007 $150 2006 $45  2000 $80 1995 $130 2001 $70Family Shiraz 2008 $120 2006 $55  2007 $40 2001 $80 1996 $160 2002 $70 2008 $40 2002 $100 1997 $150 2003 $651992 $85 GIACONDA 2009 $40 2003 $65 1998 $220 2004 $551993 Not Released Chardonnay 1999 $130 2005 $601994 $75  1990 $1001995 $110 1996 $95 1991 $75 1992 $85 2000 $1201997 $80  2001 $1301998 $100 1993 $901999 Not Released Cabernet Merlot 1994 $100 2004 $100 2002 $2002000 Not Released 1990 $95 1995 $85 2004 $1452001 $90 1991 $100 1996 $130 2005 $80 2005 $120 2004 $90 1992 $80 1997 $90 2006 $80 2005 $90 1993 $85 1998 $125 2006 $120  MOSS WOOD2006 $85  1994 $90 1999 $110 Cab Sauv 1995 $95 2000 $110 Mount Edelstone 1990 $130 BINDI 1996 $100 2001 $100 Eileen Hardy 1990 $120 KAY BROS 1991 $140Block 5 Pinot Noir 1997 $90 2002 $140 Shiraz Block 6 Old Vine 1992 $120 1997 $80 1998 $95 2004 $190 1991 $90 1993 $901998 $95 1999 $95 2005 $140 1990 $100 1992 $90 Shiraz 1994 $1301999 Not Released 2000 $85 2006 $120 1991 $55 1990 $95 1995 $1702000 $150  2001 $80 2007 Not Released 1992 $55 1993 $80 1991 $60 1996 $1502001 $100 2002 Not Released 2008 $110  1994 $80 1992 $75 1997 $90 2003 $75 1993 $60 1995 $80 1993 $50 1998 $150 1994 $75 1994 $60 1999 $140 1996 $100 1995 $50 2000 $120 1995 $65  1997 $70 1996 $70  2001 $120 1996 $95 1998 $95 1997 $50 2002 $902002 $110 2004 $70 1997 $50 1998 $80 2003 $952003 $85 1999 $75 1999 $70  2004 $85 1998 $100 2000 $65 2000 $65 2005 $852004 $140 1999 $70 2001 $65 2006 $652005 $120 D’ARENBERG 2001 $85 2002 $852006 $110 The Dead Arm 2000 $60  2002 $130 2003 $652007 $110 2001 $75 2003 $802008 $110 Shiraz 2002 $55 1994 $120 Meshach 2003 $55 2004 $85 1995 $80 1990 $110 2005 $90  1996 $75 1991 $85 2004 $65 2006 $85  1997 $60 1992 $80 2004 $65 BROKENWOOD 1998 $85 1993 $70  2005 $50Graveyard Shiraz 1999 $65 1994 $90 Keyneton Estate 2006 $65 MOUNT MARY1990 $90 2000 $65 1995 $85 1990 $55 Quintet1991 $100 2001 $70 1996 $100 1991 $45 1990 $2601992 Not Released 2002 $65 1997 Not Released 1992 $45 KATNOOK ESTATE 1991 $1101993 $75 2003 $65 1998 $130 1993 $45 Odyssey Cab Sauv 1992 $1101994 $80 2004 $60 1999 $85 Hill of Grace 1994 $36 1991 $90 1993 $1301995 $70 1980 $250 1995 $34 1994 $120 1981 $230 1992 $75 1993 Not Released92 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2010

what’s it worth? WINESTATE’S AUCTION PRICE GUIDE Prices listed are exceptional auction highs and do not include buyer’s premium.1995 $100 1987 $900 1992 $70 1995 $35 1987 $70 1994 $95 1999 $501996 $160 1988 $800 1993 $70 1996 $55 1990 $90  1995 $80 2000 $651997 $110 1989 $850 1994 $65 1997 $45 1991 $65 1996 $75 2001 $1201998 $180 1990 $2,000 1995 $65 1998 $75 1993 $55 1997 $65 2002 $651999 $120 1991 $1,100 1996 $150 1999 $45 1994 $65 1998 $110 2003 $602000 $160 1992 $1,000 1997 $65 2000 $45 1999 $75 2004 $852001 $120 1993 $1,000 1998 $95 2001 $45 THREE RIVERS/ 2000 $70 2005 $55 2002 $120 1994 $800 1999 $70 2002 $40 Chris Ringland 2001 $70 2006 $70 2003 $130  1995 $800 2000 $60 2004 $45 Wines Shiraz 2002 $120 2007 $65 2004 $140  1996 $1,000 2001 $60 2005 $45 1990 $900 2003 $602005 $140 1997 $800 2002 $80 2006 $45 1991 $700 2004 $70 Moet et Chandon2006 $130  1998 $1,200 2003 $60 1992 $650 2005 $70 Cuvee Dom  1999 $890 2004 $75 1993 $750 Perignon 2000 $1,100 2005 $65  1994 $650  1973 $360 2001 $1,100 2006 $80  1995 $500 1975 $400 2002 $1,500 1996 $1,200 1976 $330  2003 $900 Magill Estate Stonewell Shiraz 1997 Not Released 1978 $290 2004 $1,100 1990 $70 1990 $90 1998 $900 John Riddoch 1980 $220 Bin 95 Grange 1991 $70 Cab Sauv1951 $43,000 1991 $70 1992 $60 1999 $600 1990 $70 1982 $4501952 $17,000 1992 $55 1993 $65 2000 $450 1983 $1801953 $13,000 1993 $50 1994 $65 2001 $850 1991 $75 1985 $3001954 $10,000 1995 $60 1992 $601955 $3,600 1994 $60 1996 $95 2002 $850 1993 $55 1988 $2601956 $14,000 1995 $45 1997 $65 2003 $500 1990 $6001957 $11,000 1996 $80 1998 $85  1994 $70 1992 $2401958 $4,800 Bin 707 1997 $60  1999 $75 1995 Not Released 1993 $2201959 $2,000 1980 $150  1998 $85 2000 $701960 $1,400 1981 Not Released 1999 $65 2001 $65 TORBRECK1961 $1,200 1982 $140 2000 $55 2002 $70 Run Rig Shiraz 1996 $75 1995 $2201962 $1,100 1983 $140  2001 $55 2004 $85 1995 $250 1997 $50 1996 $3101963 $1,000 1984 $140  2002 $70 1998 $801964 $750  1985 $140  2003 $70 1996 $350 1999 $52 1998 $2601965 $500  1986 $200  2004 $65 1997 $240 1999 $2401966 $600 1987 $140 2005 $60 1998 $350 2003 $50 2000 $2501967 $700 1988 $150 2006 $75 2004 $551968 $550 1989 $150  1999 $2001969 $550 1990 $200  2000 Not Released 2005 $75 FORTIFIEDS1970 $360 Bin 389 2001 $190 2006 $601971 $700 1972 $350 2002 $220 Michael Shiraz1973 $360 2003 $2001974 $400 2004 $200 1955 $3,000 1975 $400 1991 $140 1990 $130  Basket Press 2005 $200 1990 $100 Para Liqueur1976 $600  1992 $150  1991 $80  Shiraz 2006 $150 1991 $65 1878 $1,6001977 $400 1993 $150  1992 $50 1992 Not Released 1879 $1,2001978 $400 1994 $160  1993 $55 1990 $150 1993 $65 1880 $8001979 $380 1995 Not Released 1994 $65 1991 $140 1994 $65 1881 $8001980 $360 1996 $200 1995 $50 1992 $95 1995 Not Released 1887 $8001981 $390  1997 $150 1996 $90 1993 $75 1996 $70 1893 $1,0001982 $370  1998 $200 1994 $90 1997 $55 1899 $1,0001983 $380  1999 $130 1995 $75 Shiraz 1998 $70  1901 $650 1984 $350 2000 Not Released 1997 $45 1996 $140 1990 $145 1999 $45 1908 $5501985 $400  2001 $120 1998 $80 1997 $95 1991 $130 2003 $50 1910 $5001986 $550 2002 $160 1999 $50 1998 $190 1992 $80 2004 $60 1922 $5001987 $320 2003 Not Released 2000 $55 1999 $95 1993 $90 2005 $65 1925 $8001988 $350 2004 $190 2001 $50 2000 $80 1994 $160 The Octavius Shiraz 1927 $4801989 $350 2005 $150  2002 $60 2001 $85 1995 $95  1990 $75 1930 $2401990 $580 2006 $160  2003 $50 2002 $140 1996 $160  1991 Not Released 1933 $2001991 $480  2007 $160  2004 $48 2003 $100 1997 $90 1992 $60 1939 $1501992 $350 2005 $50 2004 $95 1998 $160 1993 $45 1944 $901993 $350 2006 $45  2005 $95 1999 $100 1994 $70 1947 $801994 $350 2007 $35 2006 $95 2000 $90 1995 $65 1951 $3001995 $350  Bin 707 Magnum 2007 $100 2001 $95 1996 $901996 $480 1980 $190 RWT 2002 $1501997 $340 1981 Not Released 2003 $801998 $580  1982 $210 1997 $95  Old Block Shiraz 2004 $1501999 $410 1983 $260 1998 $140  1990 $85 2005 $1302000 $420 1984 $190 1999 $110 1991 $50 2006 $1302001 $370  1985 $230 2000 $90  1992 $402002 $460 1986 $340 2001 $100 1993 $40 WILD DUCK CREEK 1997 $60 Grandfather Port2003 $400 1987 $190 2002 $120 1994 $45 ‘Duck Muck’ 1998 $100 1940 $2402004 $520 1988 $180 2003 $110 1995 $45 Shiraz 1999 $60 1945 $2202005 $600  1989 $175 2004 $110 1996 $70 2000 $60 1990 $360 2005 $100 1997 $40 1994 $380  2001 $85 1991 $240 2006 $110 1998 $65 1995 $340  2002 $100 Vintage Port 1992 $165 1999 $60 1996 Not Released 2003 $75 1993 $210 Block 42 2000 $40 1997 $490 2004 $75 1994 $350 Cab Sauv 2001 $40 1998 Not Released 1995 Not Released 1996 $480  2002 $80 1999 Not Released 1956 $120 1996 $380 2004 $600 2003 $50 1956 $120 1997 $225 2004 $50 2000 $350 1998 $350  2005 $50 2001 $320  1958 $140 1999 $240  2006 $70 1964 $110 2000 Not Released 2002 $360 1965 $110 2001 $250 2004 $320Bin 95 Grange 2002 $280  2007 $260 Dry Red No. 1 1966 $100 Magnum 1990 $150 1991 $75 1967 $65 Coonawarra 1968 $651979 $1,800 Red Blend 1992 $601980 $900 2004 $310 1993 $55 1969 $501981 $1,000 1990 $65 SEPPELT 1971 $601982 $950 2005 $320 Show Sparkling 1994 $701983 $1,000 1991 $55 Shiraz 1972 $551984 $880 1992 $40 Black Label 1995 $551985 $900 St. Henri 1993 $35 1984 $65 1990 $100 1996 $651986 $2,000 1994 $40 1985 $90 1991 $110 1997 $75 1990 $170 1986 $75 1992 $70 1998 $80 1991 $95 1993 $80 November/December 2010 W I N E S TAT E 93

wine investment & collectingAUCTION DATES Aruecptioonrts years as buyers realise the extraordinary depletions of classic vintages. The LANGTON’S WINE LANGTONS FINE WINE AUCTIONS appearance of 1965 Lindemans Bin 3100 AUCTIONS & EXCHANGE (JULY/AUGUST REPORT) was a surprise, fetching $1267 a bottle. October 19-November 3 While sustained volume of demand and In 2005 it would have achieved around (Melbourne) stable prices were achieved during July $400. Considering its importance, this November 3-16 (Sydney) and August, clearance rates have been wine still represents a bargain as it is November 16-30 (Melbourne) stymied for some time by unrealistic possibly the most famous wine of the November 30-December 14 vendor expectations - one of the key era from the Hunter Valley. The 1955 (Sydney) management issues for Langton’s since Wynns Michael Coonawarra Hermitage December 14-January 11 it began its internet wine auction service achieved a record price of $3453. In The (Melbourne) in 2002. In the past, ‘auctioneer’s Australian Wine Compendium of 1985 discretion’ was a way of moving stock James Halliday wrote that “1955 was STERLING WINE through the system. Today, vendors an historic year. The most exceptional AUCTIONS & EXCHANGE are able to adjust their reserves online. was 1955 Michael, a freak wine which October 29-November 10 The benefit is more control to the seller seemingly gained much of its character (consignment deadline October 25) and, while this obviously establishes from the secondhand fortified wine November 26-December 8 certainty, the impact on clearance cask in which it was matured”. Rare (consignment deadline November 22) rates has been profound. Although bottles of 1961 Seppelt Great Western the volume of stock coming onto the Sparkling Burgundy ($556) and 1962 ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS market has risen tenfold since 2002, the Hardys Reserve Bin C404 Cabernet December 7 (entries close main challenge is to maintain market Sauvignon ($554) also achieved strong November 12) momentum. Fresh-looking catalogues prices, while 1878 Seppelt Centenary lead to vibrant sales and good clearance Para Liqueur Port, the first of this historic GRAYSONLINE rates and, in August. Langton’s wine, reached $1667. Daily wine auctions (featuring a weeded out overexposed lots with the range of red and white wines and immediate effect of increased market Downward drift has been a feature regional and country-specific sales) traction and higher clearance rates. of the Penfolds Grange market. Prices have hovered over the low estimate (All dates subject to change, July/August saw plenty of new surpluses and clearance rates have slowed down, without notice) coming onto the market, with collectors although this is perhaps not surprising viewing this stable period as a good after a very successful Penfolds Auction opportunity to sell down and consolidate in June. Nonetheless, a magnum of their cellars. The market for rare Australian 1986 Bin 95 Grange reached a near- wines has been assertive for nearly two record price of $1956. Penfolds Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon is performing above expectations and enjoying remarkable demand in China, possibly because it neatly basks in the glory of Grand Cru Classe Bordeaux. If this trend continues, Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon could start moving up towards Grange prices; over the past three years prices have increased by 60-65 per cent. St Henri is also enjoying good demand - the astonishing prices for rare vintages in 2009 and a rediscovery of the maturation style have resulted in buoyant prices. A bottle of 1961 St Henri reached $776, outperforming its more famous stablemate, 1971 Grange, at $684. Ultra-fine Australian wine continues to dominate the auction scene, with Chris Ringland, Grant Burge, Grosset, Henschke, Lake’s Folly, Penfolds, Peter Lehmann, Henschke and Wynns all performing within expectations. The $50 and $150 price range forms94 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2010

the backbone of the secondary wine Premium Global Wine Solutionsmarket. In August, clearance ratesjumped up significantly, largely because WINE STORAGEof the removal of ‘dead stock’ from theauction system. Some of the wines have Sydney | London | Hong Kong | San Franciscobeen placed on the exchange and otherlots returned to the vendor. This has had Store your wine in Cellar Link’s manageda major impact on catalogue content, warehouses around the world & ensurefreeing up the auction market and your collection is kept at optimumdrawing back frustrated buyers. While cellaring conditions.it is true some lots with high reserves You will be guaranteed:will sell through, they generally clog upthe market like pond weed. Special humidity & climate controlled conditions Imported wine continues to attract Secure restricted access & 24-hour CCTVstrong interest. The best performers are surveillanceBordeaux First Growths, Domaine de la Online stock inventory at anytime includingRomanee Conti and other ‘top of genre’ country of storage, barcode & bay locationclassics. Recent highlights include 1982 Flexible price plans including annual,Chateau Petrus ($5889), 1985 Tenuta San quarterly or monthly billingGuido Sassicaia ($1726), 1990 Domaine Free wine insurance with full replacementde la Romanee Conti ($6348), a magnum value (uncapped)*of 2005 Chateau Lafite-Rothschild Unlimited access to Cellar Link’s Collector($2300) and Quinta do Noval Nacional Services through the Global WineVintage Port ($1380). Management Portal (GWMP).th Langton’s fine wine principal, Andrew PhONE NOW & quOTE 'WINESTATE'Caillard MW, says the overall outlook for fOR fREE ACCESS TO ThE GWMPthe remainder of 2010 is positive. For moreinformation, visit www.langtons.com.au. Access until 31/12/2010 onlyGRAYSONLINE www.cellarlink.com.au/gwmp(JULY/AUGUST REPORT)GraysOnline continue to achieve Premium Global Wine Solutionsconsistent month-on-month growth in Secure climate controlled storageprivate cellar sales. Consumers were Global wine management portal (GWMP)treated to a week-long, $50,000 specialPenfolds event which saw record prices Third party logistics (3PL)for seriously collectable vintages of BrokerageGrange, with the highlight a 1966 vintageachieving $2072. To the vendor’s delight, Fine wine onlinethe younger brother, a 1976 vintage, wassecured for an amazing $1852. Suite 503, 157 Walker Street, North Sydney, NSW, 2060 Tel: 1300 270 110 +61 2 8622 5000 (if overseas) Demand has never been stronger forpremium Penfolds. An amazing 61 bottles *Subject to Cellar Link’s terms & conditionsof Grange, dated 1964 through to 2003and averaging an astonishing $584 perbottle, walked out the door. St Henrireached a high of $202 for a 1996 vintageand there was strong demand for ‘Bin’products, with a 1998 magnum of Bin 707achieving $499. Interesting niche wine isalways in high demand; the 1996 Bin 620went for an average of $365. June and July saw bigger-volume,iconic Australian wine sales, including anabundance of old favourites. Investmentwines were plentiful and acquired fromserious investors, who have achieved November/December 2010 W I N E S TAT E 95

wine investment & collectingphenomenal short-term results. A recent ODDBINS WINE AUCTIONS wines which have generally been bypassedvintage, 2004 magnum of Grange realised (AUGUST REPORT) by traditional Australian wine consumers$1500, and tier one products are always Having lamented the undersupply of and collectors and really, no cellar shouldin demand from astute investors. Australia’s most collectible wines through be without them,” says Graham. the first half of the year, Oddbins’ Iconic Henschke wines have been auctioneer and valuer Graham Wright says Of the Australian section of theexciting customers, and one enthusiastic the company’s August auction saw a mild catalogue, there was good demand andbidder secured a 1999 Cyril for a record return to normality, with stock weights up clearances for perennial favourites like$593. Old favourites like Wynns Michael and major brands like Burge’s Meshach, Burge’s Meshach, especially from theand John Riddoch, as well as Penfolds St Clarendon Hills Astralis, Kay Bros Block 6 early 1990s, as well as Greenock Creek’sHenri, Bin 707, Magill and Bin 389 - along and, importantly, the major wine styles of Creek Blocks and Roennfeldt Shiraz (bothwith Brokenwood and Petaluma -were Henschke and Penfolds (including Grange) from the late ’90s and early 2000s) and theall keenly contested and sold at record featuring prominently in the catalogue. 1998 Seven Acre. Also catching the eyeprices. A recent twin-pack sale of 2000 However, he suspects they’re not out of of buyers was the entire listing of 1993vintage Penfolds Magill Estate went the woods yet. Hardys Eileen Shiraz, ’96 Barry’s Armagh,under the hammer for $538 - demand Rockford Basket Press from the 1990s,for these items has never been hotter! “One noticeable absence from this early St Hallett Old Blocks, Wendouree catalogue was that of two very important varietals from the 1990s and most Wynns There’s always a perfect drop for every auction staples - Penfolds Bin 707 and Cabernet, John Riddoch and Michael.palate at GraysOnline, with a 1998 Penfolds 389,” says Graham. “There is rumour and Also of note was the spirited bidding on707 selling for $539 and a three-pack of gossip circulating in the trade that Asian Cimicky Signataire and Autograph. This is1998 Wynns cabernet selling recently for collectors are heavily buying up all stocks a winery which has never hit its straps in$171. Batches of bargains are available for of these important brands. Even retailers the general auction market, but has alwaysaround $50 a bottle, which makes well- are whinging about the lack of availability, appealed to Oddbins’ buyers.cellared wine accessible to even more especially Bin 707.”enthusiastic buyers. Single bottles of late With Australia’s two leading auction1990s and early 2000 vintages from name From a demand perspective, the big brands, a large selection of Henschkebrands like d’Arenberg, Mt Ida, Wynns surprise from the August sale was the Hill of Grace from the 1980s through toand Bannockburn have been snapped up unexpected demand for premium and the early 2000s cleared well - along withrecently at bargain prices. super-premium Italian reds. Names like Mt Edelstones from the early 1990s. Of Badia and Passignano, Tignanello, Brezza the Penfolds lots, good clearances were For more information, visit www. Sarmassa Barolo, Ornellaia and Gaja recorded for Bins 389, 407 and a verygraysonline.com or email wine@grays. Barbaresco all enjoyed strong bidding and small offering of 707 and there was acom.au. good clearances. “These are truly great return of interest in the Block 42s on offer. *All prices listed include buyer’s premium.Oddbins Wine Auctioneers & Valuers of Wine Auctions www.oddbins.com.au Address: 33 Sunbeam Rd Glynde SA 5070Phone: (08) 8365 4722 Fax: (08) 8365 4788 Looking for Wine? Email: [email protected] Let Oddbins Wine Auctions show you how to buy wine in three easy steps… Step 1 - Call us about our subscriptions 08 8365 4722 Step 2 - View the wines online or posted catalogue - www.oddbins.com.au Step 3 - Set your budget & place your bids! - From 1 to 1,000 bottles With over 30 years experieIntc’seW...hat we do Best!96 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2010

Grange in good condition also cleared wine investment & collectingexceptionally well. TURN YOUR The Imported section of the catalogue LIQUID ASSETsaw good clearances for mid-pricedBordeaux, a wide selection of premier cru INTO CASHBurgundy and Italian reds. A tightening ofsupply saw the other growing category, GraysOnline sells more cases of wine online thanNew Zealand, slowing down at this anyone else in Australia. We manage the marketing,auction - although there does appear to warehousing, logistic and payment - making it thebe increasing buyer interest, and not just most effective but also the easiest retail channel.in sauvignon blanc. Call Patrick Barry on 0409 892 446 Vintage-dated fortifieds from Chateau or email [email protected], Penfolds, Seppelt and Yalumbaall cleared well, while the market went tosleep a little with the large and interestingoffering of Portuguese ports from the1970s. Not much to report on the spirits,except a notable selection of Jim Beamwhiskies and memorabilia also cleared well. For further information visit www.oddbins.com.au.STERLING WINE AUCTIONS& EXCHANGE(AUGUST/SEPTEMBER REPORT)A review of results from the latest Sterlingauctions indicate the hottest property, andstill growing in appeal, is the ascendantPenfolds Bin 707 - with big-hitting puntersand trade types sniffing around and lookingto pay serious money for the strong backvintages. If things continue as they are, AUSTRALIA’S LEADING FINE WINE SPECIALISTAUCTIONS VINTAGE REVIEWSEXCHANGE MARKET REPORTSVA L U AT I O N S EN PRIMEUR OFFERSPRICE GUIDES LANGTON’S MAGAZINEVINTAGE CHARTS LANGTON’S CLASSIFICATIONWINERY PROFILES OF AUSTRALIAN WINEOFFERING AUSTRALIA’S LARGEST RANGE OF FINE & RARE WINEMelbourne: Building 5, Maple Close Sydney: Unit 5, 2 Hordern Place650 Church Street Richmond VIC. 3121 Camperdown NSW 2050Ph. 03 9428 4499 Fax. 03 9428 9788 Ph. 02 9557 9100 Fax. 02 9557 9119Email [email protected] Email [email protected] November/December 2010 W I N E S TAT E 97

wine investment & collectingON THE SPOT predicts Sterling’s Lynton Barber, it won’t from 2000, 2003, 2005, 2006 or 2007.CASH FOR YOUR be long before the “sassy” 1998 707 is “Ranging from $50 to $100 a bottle, theseOLD BARRELS! pushing through the $250 mark. Currently wines are real crowd-pleasers.” sitting pretty at around $200, this modernRegular pickups in icon is capable of nudging $300 over the Lynton also has a few tips for good valueSA, Victoria, NSW wine regions. next few years. ‘investments’. “The 1998 Penfolds BinCall Paul today on 0428 578 327 389 has to be the best-value investment Penfolds Grange remains, as always, around for so many reasons,” he says. an elusive beauty which defies prediction “Buy a supply now while supplies are still or market forces. “Right now, buy 2001 strong. A little obscure but of huge value Penfolds Grange between a hammer fall is a wine from the wonder world of John of $250-$300,” says Lynton. “It’s a good Glaetzer - look in the auction catalogues wine (with strong points) which appears for John’s Blend.” to be under the radar. It seems the heat is out of the Grange market, with many Each year the catalogues at Sterling auction prices generally down. Maybe Wine Auctions handle thousands of the unwilling market is choking on the bottles of proud, middle-aged whites, unpopular 2005 current release? This and Lynton says that experience has regal lady will ramp again as the appetite proven very useful in refining a few for the yet-to-be-released ‘super Grange’ ‘rules’ in regard to white wine with 2006 should well push any softness out colour - colour that is, beyond the very of the market.” palest straw. “Firstly, play the game you can afford,” he says. “It’s not just about French tastes are being catered to at money. It can be hard and disappointing auction like never before. Significant work sifting through old and rare whites. quantities of seriously elevated French Like in any high-risk game, the rewards wines are coming onto the secondary tend to be spectacular. Some of the best market, with Sterling’s catalogue being wines of my life have turned up among graced by ‘immortals’ like 1982 Lafite, the duds. Don’t buy whites older than 1982 Pichon Comtesse and 1986 Mouton three years off current vintage if you Rothschild. “My budget and tastes target don’t want surprises.” French ‘populars’ like Cru Bourgeois Bordeaux from 1989 and 1995,” says For a more comprehensive report Lynton, who suggests trying Chateauneuf from Lynton on this area, visit www. sterlingwine.com.au.advert 178x90 mm 10-2007 31/10/07 3:48 PM Page 1 World’s best Wine pricesDo you want the real wine price story? Do you want to check trends?Sterling Wine Auctions & Exchange has the world’s best Wine Auction sale price database.Every bottle sold over the past ten years, perfectly searchable and cross referenced.And it’s Free! Just go to the Web site. Sterling Wine Auctions, specialists since 1992,offering full Live Online E-trading to clients all over the world and Old Fashioned personal service. FREE Auction Catalogues and FREE Bidder Registration. Phone Lynton for a chat on 08 9388 9955 or 0418 949 837, or log on www.sterlingwine.com.au Wine Auctions & Exchange98 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2010



252 TASTED135 AWARDEDPINOT NOIRThis was our biggest-ever pinot noir tasting, with a strong Wolf Blass PINOT NOIRcontribution from New Zealand winemakers. It augurs well for this Yellow Label South $20 - $25variety, where increasing competition is going to deliver the best Autralia Pinot Noirpossible outcome! From light lunch wines to seriously structured 2008 HHH1/2 27 TASTEDprestige examples, this tasting runs the full gamut of options available. Big, ripe, spicy/chocolaty 12 AWARDED style loaded with dark wild The judges expected aPINOT NOIR berry and beetroot-like little more at this priceUNDER $15 fruit characters. $17.99 level. A few stood out, Rosemount Estate showing good pepper5 TASTED Diamond Label Pinot and spice characters, Noir 2009 HHH and some delivered a bit0 AWARDED Ripe aromas - a touch more viscosity and oak jammy. Well-structured balance but others wereDisappointing - there palate, slight ‘funkiness’, no better than the bestwasn’t a winner in this soft tannins and from the previous class.group. They were all in balancing acid. $15.99the light dry red category Plantagenet Omrah Mount Rileyrather than being Great Southern Marlborough Pinotvarietals. They offered Pinot Noir 2009 HHH Noir 2009 HHHH1/2reasonable drinking but Peppery plum nose with Great varietal examplenot what you‘re looking a spicy lift and a savoury with a subtle and refinedfor in a varietal. palate showing a lovely bouquet and soft, subtle use of oak. $18 velvety tannin palatePINOT NOIR Redwood Pass Pinot Dashwood Babich Marlborough layered with powerful,$15 - $20 Noir 2008 HHHH1/2 Marlborough Pinot Pinot Noir 2009 HHH strawberry-like flavours Vibrant red hues and a Noir 2008 HHHH Stalky strawberry and balancing oak. Well-18 TASTED very interesting ‘meaty’ Pretty, delicate, well- bouquet and tightly made wine. $21.9510 AWARDED nose that’s vibrant and made wine with sweet structured strawberry/ lifted. Palate shows raspberry and redcurrant cherry cola palate with aNot many bad wines generous ‘pinosity’ on fruit balanced by oak. hint of pepper. $19.95here, which is a credit to a long, savoury palate. Silky mouthfeel and tight Durvilleathe winemakers, but the Nice structure, good acidity. $18 Marlborough Pinotproblem is to get to the balance. $18 Noir 2009 HHHnext quality level. “This Taylors Adelaide The Wine Society Sweet cherry nose withis a variety that does Hills Pinot Noir Tasmania Pinot Noir savoury notes. Juicy inwell under screwcap 2009 HHHH 2009 HHH1/2 the mouth, with a sweetand offers good value for ‘Blockbuster’ with Big, flavoursome wine. middle and lingeringmoney,” said one judge. fresh, vibrant plum/ Earthy/berry aromas finish. $19.99 cherry aromas and a Boatshed Bay seamlessly integrated, Marlborough Pinot savoury palate - slightly Noir 2008 HHH drying and chewy, with Powerful smoky oak savoury characters. $18 aromas with a lift of strawberry, leading to a silky, sleek, savoury palate. $18 and sweet varietal fruit flavours; great tannin length. 3-5 $19.99100 W I N E S TAT E November/December 2010