Winestate Magazine March April 2010

MARCH/APRIL 2010 WINESTATE VOL 33 ISSUE 2 AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDEBAROSSA ITALIAN & SPANISH CENTRAL & WESTERN VICTORIA MARLBOROUGH (NZ) CHARDONNAY MASTERS of theWINE UNIVERSE MW seminar draws global audience WchINocEo&late ch2a&r2db5olnetannsatdeyds A HEDONIST'S HEAVEN THE THIRSTY Asian GiantPRINT POST APPROVED PP565001/00129 March/April 2010 ROBERT PARKER’S SPANISH MASTERCLASS Vol 33 Issue 2 $9.95 AUS (inc GST) plusChardonnay & Blends • Central & Western Victoria UK £3.95 NZ $10.95 Barossa Valley & Eden Valley • Italian & Spanish • Marlborough (NZ)

winestateSyheiarrazof the2007 Filsell Barossa Old Vine Shiraz Grant Burge Wines PO Box 744, Tanunda, South Australia 5352 Phone +61 8 8563 3700 Email [email protected] www.grantburgewines.com.au

NO.233 MARCH/APRIL 2010Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E-mail: [email protected] Editor Lara Simic E-mail: [email protected] Editor Michael Cooper E-mail: [email protected] Mike JaenschAdministration Vicki Bozsoki E-mail: [email protected] Director Renate Klockner E-mail: [email protected] Manager Peter Jackson E-mail: [email protected] Coordinator Sue Lumb E-mail: [email protected] DAI RubiconWinestate Web Site Justin Martin E-mail: [email protected] South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive HartleySouth Australia Skye Murtagh, Joy Walterfang, Graeme Andrews, Valmai HankelVictoria Jeni Port, Hilary McNevinWestern Australia Mike Zekulich, Rod ProperjohnQueensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie LoelNew Zealand Michael CooperNational Travel Winsor DobbinUSA Gerald D. BoydEUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MWASIA Denis GastonADVERTISING SALESAustralia, New Zealand & InternationalPeter Jackson, Winestate PublicationsPhone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] & Advertising website www.winestate.infoNSW, South Australia & VictoriaWinestate Magazine (08) 8357 9277E-mail: [email protected] Bradley Phone: (07) 3391 6633 E-mail: [email protected] AustraliaJamie O’Keeffe - O’Keeffe Media Services (08) 9381 7766WINESTATE New Zealand AdministrationKay Morganty Phone: (09) 479 1253 E-mail: [email protected] and Gotch Australia P/LNew ZealandIndependent Magazine DistributorsInternationalDAI RubiconHong Kong & ChinaEverwise Wine LimitedUKComagBRAZILWalker DistributionUSASource Interlink InternationalWINESTATE is published seven times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD,81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061.Copyright 2010 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in wholeor in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronicmedium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher.Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumesno responsibility for the effects arising therefrom.ABN 56 088 226 411Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au

contentsMARCH/APRIL 2010FEATURES R E G U L A R S30 Marlborough stays positive despite 8 Briefsa few setbacks 15 Cooper’s Creed with Michael CooperWith a glut of ‘sauvignon plonk’ and 16 European Report with Sally Eastonredundant vineyards, New Zealand’sbiggest wine region has stumbled 18 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartleyafter a frenetic period of growth and 20 Wine Travel with Elisabeth Kingactivity - but there’s no great cause for 22 Wine History with Valmai Hankelalarm, as Michael Cooper points out.32 An exquisite wine and food match 56 Grapevine 62 Wine Words- but it’s with chocolate 44 64 BookwormsOrganic chocolate with hemp, 81 How We Judge 82 What’s it Worth?pumpkin and sunflower seeds andBalinese sea salt - perfectly partneredwith wine. That’s just a sample of 44 Feeding the growing thirst of the the exotic taste combinations at an Asian giant 86 Wine Investment & Collecting enterprising Adelaide Hills winery. Subscription Form Joy Walterfang pays a visit. Driven by demand from Japan and, 145 Aftertaste now, China, wine consumption in Asia36 Fruitier, softer and distinctively different - that’s Franciacorta has accelerated out of the traditional 146 Half a century ago, a young winemaker in northern Italy persuaded territory of beer and local ‘juice’. his employer to let him make a Denis Gastin explains the marketing strategy he says is vital to maintaining this momentum.sparkling wine in the French style. 48 The inside story on a SpanishGiorgio Fragiacomo tastes some of masterclass with a legendthese distinctive wines while exploring More than 500 palates from aroundcellar doors in this majestic region. the world gathered in Rioja to sniff40 Stimulating seminar for masters and sip in the shadow of the famed 52 and students Robert Parker. In this eager crowd Moving to Adelaide after a decade was Chester Osborn, chief winemaker in the eastern capitals, the at d’Arenberg, who gives a fascinating Australasian Educational Seminar account of the experience.for Master of Wine students was 52 Blending centuries of history in thea resounding success, writes old New WorldDavid LeMire, one member of an The Cape region of South Africainternational group of participants. has just celebrated 350 years of winemaking, and Andre Pretorius revels in the spectacular countryside 65 New Releases and Top 40 as he visits the people and places Best Buys under $20. that have put their indelible imprint on this remarkable history. W I N E TAST I N G S Winestate Magazine 90 Central & Western Victoria Issue Number 233 96 Italian & Spanish March/April 2010 102 Barossa Valley & Eden Valley 112 Chardonnay & Blends Cover photograph 120 Marlborough, NZ © Donald Gruener. 131 Michael Cooper’s Recent Releases

Just to clarify... we’re not lawyers. Lachlan & James Allen, Barristers Block Wines. Feel the passion and determination of the family. After surviving a six-year legal battle to save the family property Cellar door sales and tastings, open seven days during summer, from a corporate takeover, the property became affectionately 11am - 5pm. 141 Onkaparinga Valley Road, Woodside, S.A. known as Barristers Block, in recognition of our struggle. Ph: +61 88389 7706 Come and learn of our battle to share world class, estate grown facebook.com/barristersblock wine. Barristers Block Premium Wines, Discover the vision. barristersblock.com.auBBW39



editorialT H I S I S T H A T exciting time of the year whenwinemakers in the southern hemisphere are in the middleof vintage, or in the cooler regions waiting in anticipation.For wine consumers it is a romantic time, with the same feel-good images of fruitfulness evoked by Tuscany or Provence(or in our case Barossa, Hunter Valley, Margaret River andMarlborough). Apologies to the other fine regions. It is the time to dream about sitting on the winemaker’s balconydrinking fine red wine or descending into a cool cellar for a dustyold bottle that will reveal its treasure from the ages. Of course, for most winemakers this time is a stressful hardslog, making sure that fruit is delivered on time at maximumpotential, avoiding the vagaries of weather, making sure thatferments proceed evenly and trying to avoid or minimise thedangers of volatility, oxidation and sulphide problems, alongwith myriad attention-to-detail items that will affect the finalquality of the wine presented to the trade and consumers.It’s not that winemakers are not equally passionate aboutwine (or they wouldn’t be in their profession) but they dohave to deal with the realities of their imperfect situation. Already we are finding that the vintage in Southern Australia, particularly in the warm climate riverregions, could be 30 per cent down on average, with the recent hot spells resulting in poor fruit set.Fortunately other regions are saying that fruit currently looks good, as long as the weather remainsmild, in line with forecasts. In this issue we can enjoy the fruits of the winemakers’ labour, with tastings ranging from a greatline-up of local and imported Spanish and Italian varietals, arguably the best range of chardonnayswe have seen for a long time, and the usual pick of the new releases from Australia and New Zealand.Regions covered include Central and Western Victoria, Barossa and Eden Valleys and sauvignon blanccentral - the beautiful Marlborough region. For the hunter and collector this is a wonderful sampling of what these regions have to offer andgreat testament to the winemakers’ skill. Just remember, though, that this is not the time to talk to themabout romance!Cheers! Peter Simic DAVID LEMIRE CHESTER OSBORN Editor/Publisher Master of Wine and wine Chief winemaker business consultant, and viticulturalist forNEW CONTRIBUTORS THIS ISSUE with extensive judging d’Arenberg Wines. experience at major Winemaking experience DENIS GASTIN capital city Australian in Europe; three years Senior wine writer and wine shows. Previously as associate judge author and former Australian both imports and at the Adelaide Wine trade official in China and exports manager for Show; three years as Japan, who has written Negotiants International. chairman of judges at extensively about the Asian the UK International wine industry. He writes Wine Challenge. for wine and liquor industry publications in Japan and South Korea and for the official Australia Wine Japanese language website.

briefsSAM FINDS A TOWER OF FUN SELL THE FARM? – HARDLYIN NOVEMBER last year, Wirra Wirra senior winemaker Samantha AT THE same time as a Melbourne newspaper was reporting on its“Sam” Connew announced she was leaving the McLaren Vale possible sale, Spray Farm was actually gearing up for its new rolewinery to study for her master’s degree and rediscover the “fun as a cellar door and restaurant for the Scotchmans Hill Group. Theopportunities” in the world of wine. By December she had clearly group, which is housed at the nearby Scotchmans Hill winery on thefound her next fun opportunity: senior winemaker at Tower Estate. Bellarine Peninsula, decided to make the short move to new digs to capitalise on Spray Farm’s glorious position overlooking Port Phillip Sam, a multi-award-winning winemaker and former International Bay. The 1851 Spray Farm homestead will be host to music eventsRed Winemaker of the Year (2007), took up her new position at the over summer and in February a new restaurant will open on site.Hunter Valley winery in January. Tower Estate was founded in 1999by the late Len Evans and a group of foodie mates (including noted Asked about the newspaper real estate story detailing a potentialUK chef Rick Stein) with the intention of creating a world-class food sale of Spray Farm, general manager Matthew Browne said heand wine centrepiece. The wines highlight Australia’s best regional was as surprised as anyone to read of it. His family, he stressed,styles, including Clare Valley riesling, Coonawarra cabernet, had no intention of selling the property. The cellar door will openAdelaide Hills sauvignon blanc and Yarra Valley pinot noir. daily from 10.30am-5pm. It’s a charter that makes it one of the most demanding winemaking WAVE OF ULTRA-CHEAP WINEjobs in the country - something Sam obviously considered wouldalso be a lot of fun. YES, it’s cheaper than bottled water - and sometimes boasts as much flavour and personality - but $1.99 and $2.99 wines are here to stay. TheTOURISM TO THE RESCUE two big supermarket chains, Woolworths and Coles, say they expect wine prices to continue to defy belief for the next 12 months, despiteWITH tough times ahead in 2010, the Australian wine industry is the Australian wine industry working to cut its oversupply problem bycounting on winery tourism to pull it through. A Federal Government reducing the amount of fruit to be harvested in the 2010 vintage.grant of $226,000 has been made available to the industry to createa new model for visitor programs - one that builds on regional winestrengths and looks to appeal to drinkers with an interest not just inwine but in the arts, music and food. The project will be co-ordinatedby the Winemakers’ Federation of Australia. One area alreadycapitalising on its tourism potential is Queensland’s Granite Belt, whichhas just released a virtual online tour via YouTube. Granite Belt Wineand Tourism says research has shown that most visitors do their travelresearch online and YouTube is the world’s second biggest onlinesearch engine, so it made sense to appeal to internet users. The onlinetour can be viewed on www.granitebeltwinecountry.com.au. A LIQUID INVESTMENT STRATEGY To create a diamond, take a lump of coal and put it under millions of tonnes of pressure for about 10,000 years. To create a true gem of a wine, you’ll only need a fraction of this time but the rewards for the patient are as rich. To help you fully appreciate, protect and enjoy your investment Wine Ark offers the following services:wine-ark > CLIMATE CONTROLLED WINE STORAGE > ONLINE WINE TRADING > REGULAR WINE TASTINGS AND EVENTS For more information please call 1800 111275 or visit our website.WINE STORAGE SERVICES ADELAIDE | BRISBANE | MELBOURNE | PERTH | SYDNEY www.wine-ark.com.au8 winearkW2_tIhNirdhEorSiz.iTndAd T1E March/April 2010 30/3/09 3:52:45 PM

briefs About 300,000 tonnes of fruit or 112 million cases of wine needs CONTRASTING STRATEGIESto disappear from the national harvest, but industry leaders saythat’s just not going to happen - which means more cheap wines HOW do two small, family-owned wineries stay afloat in theseto come, priced from $1.99 to $4.99 and no profit for grapegrowers troubled times? One evolves, one devolves. For Montalto, theand winemakers who supply the wines. Mornington Peninsula vineyard, it means building a new winery for the 2010 vintage and securing a permanent, full-time winemaker. The increasing production of ‘Two Buck Chuck’, as it is oftenreferred to, is starting to worry industry leaders, who are concerned After nine vintages using consulting winemaker Robin Brockettcheap wine is sending the wrong message to the community and from Scotchmans Hill, Montalto owner John Mitchell has employedmay attract the unwanted attention of lawmakers in Canberra. his first hands-on maker, Simon Black (ex-Willow Creek Estate). He also plans to now use the converted cool store in Merricks North The general manager of Coles Liquor, Tony Leon, says he has as his new winery.been asked to meet with representatives of the Australian Wineand Brandy Corporation to discuss the supermarket’s sale of $2 Meanwhile, across the state at Rockbank, Galli Estate is planningcleanskins. “We are more than happy (to meet),” he said. “We on shrinking its annual production and dropping its winemaker anddon’t want the industry to go broke.” general manager. Galli Estate, with vineyards at Rockbank and Heathcote, will reduce its production in 2010 from 25,000 casesRIVER GROWERS ABANDONED to just 7000. The company will drop its $18-$20 wine range and concentrate on its premium single-vineyard wines priced from $30TWO days before Christmas, Constellation Wines Australia wrote to its a bottle. General manager Steven Worley says the move by ownergrowers in the Murray Valley - not to pass on festive greetings but to Pamela Galli is not in response to the industry’’s economic woes.inform them that their grapes would no longer be required. For the past “It’s not about the oversupply,” he said, although he also addedtwo vintages the company has been reviewing its grape intake, finding that companies the size of Galli were finding it difficult to survive.ways to wipe 70,000 tonnes of fruit off its books. It targeted growers in “I would suggest anything (selling) under $12 to $14 a bottle wouldthe Riverland and the Murray Valley and, while growers had assumed be very, very difficult for an operation of our size to sustain. Winesthat reductions made in 2007 and 2008 had been enough, they weren’t. at $18 to $20 a bottle are profitable, but only just.”“Obviously the company has decided to discard all current contracts inthe Murray Valley,” noted Murray Valley Winegrowers CEO Mike Stone,“which is gut-wrenching for long-term, loyal contract growers.” Meanwhile, around the same time as it was tearing up contracts,Constellation Wines was also sending out a Christmas gift tomedia and trade - a set of playing cards featuring an original 1947advertisement for Tintara Gold Label port. It came with a quotecourtesy of Robert Louis Stevenson: “Life is not a matter of holdinggood cards, but of playing a poor hand well.” Constellation Winesgrowers might have trouble appreciating the sentiment. Tomich Wines - Passion from the land to the bottle, our award winning wines are 100% estate grown from our cool climate vineyard in the Adelaide Hills. Visit our tasting room at 87 King William Road, Unley SA Proudly distributed nationally SA - Festival City Wines & Spirits 08 8349 1200 VIC - In Wine 03 9426 9000 NSW - In Wine 02 9699 6800 QLD - In Wine 0410 679 410 WA - In Wine 0407 471 588 Alice Springs - Wine Club Nick Hill 08 8952 3597 Brand Manager - Troy Smedley 0403 715 217 www.tomich.com.automichwines.indd 1 22/9/09 9:56:10 PM March/April 2010 W I N E S TAT E 9

briefsPENINSULA’S LATEST LANDMARK A GREAT WAY TO GIVETHE MORNINGTON Peninsula has a spectacular new cellar WANT to buy a presentdoor/winery following the opening of the Port Phillip Estate facility for a travel-loving- the new home for both Kooyong and Port Phillip Estate labels. wine drinker, but notThe architectural landmark features a restaurant, cellar door and sure what to get? Puttasting room, outside deck overlooking vineyards and Western the decision backPort Bay, and state-of-the-art winemaking facilities. in their hands with the new Smartbox. The two labels are owned by Melbourne industrialist and The concept allowsyachtsman Giorgio Gjergja and his family, while the estate-grown, gift givers to tailor acool-climate wines are crafted by Sandro Mosele. present for their loved ones while still letting recipients ‘choose their own adventure’ from Designed by award-winning Wood Marsh Architecture, Port up to 100 different activities or escapes at locations across NewPhillip Estate appears as an elegant 120m wall spiralling South Wales and Victoria.out from the landscape. The estate has a spacious 85-seatdining room with spectacular views, where chef Simon West’s There are seven different categories under four different themescontemporary, regional and seasonal-inspired menus will take already available online in Australia (www.smartbox.com).centre stage. Simon, formerly at Meadowbank in Tasmania,has created a stunning menu. Options in the Temptations for Two Smartbox ($69.95) include enjoying a sweet chocolate fondue dessert and martini with While upstairs is the public face of Port Phillip Estate, hidden a friend at The Victoria Room in Darlinghurst or a cheesebelow ground is the impressive and extensive winemaking, storing platter lunch for two at Grampians Estate in country Victoria.and bottling facilities that have excited winemaker Sandro. If a romantic escape is more what you had in mind, then a recipient of the Wine Getaways Smartbox ($249.95) might choose a night Six accommodation suites will also be available, boasting in a Premium Spa room at Country Guesthouse Schonegg atstunning views from the bedroom and living area across vines Murrumbateman, outside Canberra.to the bay. The cellar door is open from 11am-5pm daily andthe restaurant daily for lunch and for dinner Tuesday to Sunday. Australia has become the 18th country to launch the SmartboxPhone (03) 5989 2708; www.portphillipestate.com.au. brand, which is based on a successful concept launched in France just six years ago.MARGARET RIVER’S BIG PARTY FRANCE ON THE ROCKSTHE MARGARET River Wine Region Festival will be held at SYDNEYSIDERS have a newLeeuwin Estate on April 10-11 this year, with the 2011 and 2012 slice of France right in Thefestivals to be hosted by the new Sandalford facility. “We are Rocks following the opening ofdelighted the festival will return to Leeuwin Estate in 2010,” Baroque Bistro Patisserie. Thesaid Margaret River Wine Industry Association president Leah venue is part restaurant/partClearwater. “The event was well supported by both consumers cafe/part wine bar, with a largeand the wine industry alike and we felt there was a great open-plan pastry and cuisineatmosphere in the amphitheatre. Looking ahead, we have kitchen, a retail area and a 100-also reached in-principle agreement with Sandalford to host seat bistro and bar with indoor/the 2011 and 2012 events, which allows us to rotate venues outdoor dining areas.in the whole Margaret River wine region that encompassesboth the shires of Augusta-Margaret River and Busselton The atmosphere is relaxed,and grow the festival geographically.’’ For details see the traditional French menuwww.margaretriverfestival.com. affordable and there are some outstanding wines to choose from. Think drinks like Louis Roederer Champagne ($17/$99), Tyrrell’s 2004 HVD Semillon ($11/$45) or 2008 Josef Chromy Pinot Noir ($13/$54) alongside several affordable French imports. The ambience is post-industrial,with bar and counters in stunning rose copper, chrome pendant lights and hand-crafted Italian seating,while the walls in the 19th-century building have been stripped back. Frenchman Yann Fontaine, formerly of Quay and Bilson’s, is head chef. Baroque is open daily from 8am-midnight. Phone (02) 9241 4811; www.baroquebistro.com.au.10 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2010

briefsSYDNEY’S NEW WINE MAGNET OLD PARTNERS REUNITEDIT’S been open only a few months, but the new The Winery By Gazebo LONG-TIME wine personalitieswine bar is proving a huge success in the hip Sydney suburb of Surry Andrew Simon (right) and NicholasHills. From the same team that created the Gazebo Wine Garden in Whitlam are back in the industry,Elizabeth Bay, The Winery opened in September and was turning having repurchased ownership ofpeople away over the holiday period, so popular has it become. their Simon Whitlam brand, which was a big seller for many years. Down a cobbled laneway from Crown St in a quiet courtyard, The duo has teamed up to createThe Winery offers great views of the city skyline to go with its fine a new boutique range of six wineswines and food. Built in 1889, the former Sydney Water Workshop that Andrew says are “aimed athas been stripped back to its raw structure, high ceilings exposing wine lovers wanting quality at aoriginal features contrasted against flamboyant furnishings. realistic price”. The new Simon Whitlam range includes a 2009 Head sommeliers Andrew Jamieson and Tom Glenwright are sourcing Hunter Valley sauvignon blanc andwines from across the globe to find the most unusual top drops. While a 2006 shiraz that’s a blend of Hunter and McLaren Vale fruit. Thethe wines are listed under headings like “slurpable” and “big and brand was originally established in the 1970s and the wines are nowbold”, the wines themselves are serious; from a selection of Grosset being made by Graeme Scott at James Estate in the Upper Hunter.and Dr Loosen rieslings to Elderton Command and Penfolds Grangeand imports from Lebanon, South Africa and the United States. Around GREEK CELEBRATION50, including Grange, are available by the glass, thanks to an enomaticstorage system, and some are also available direct from the barrel. A LARGE crowd gathered inDuring summer, open-air chess games have proved popular. Coonawarra to watch Deputy Prime Minister Julia Gillard open The Winery is open Monday-Thursday 3pm-midnight and Friday- the region’s newest cellar doorSunday noon-midnight. Phone (02) 9331 0833; www.thegazebos. at Raidis Estate in an occasioncom.au/winery. complemented by Greek food, music and dancing. Winemaker Steven Raidis said he and his family “aim to produce high-quality wine that you can grab to go to a dinner or a barbecue with friends; we want Raidis Estate wine to be a part of the experience - not the centre of attention”. The cellar door is open Thursday to Sunday 12pm to 6pm and on Mondays and Tuesdays by appointment. See www.raidis.com.au.TWO HANDS TEMPTATIONS BURGUNDY’S GLASS ACTBOUTIQUE Barossa Valley winery Two Hands has unlocked its cellar IT’S not often that Burgundy follows in the footsteps of Australiadoor collection, which will be available for the first time to visitors to cellar but that is the case at the Loiseau Les Vignes restaurants at thedoor, who can now get an exclusive look at a selection of the winery’s venerable Hotel Le Cep in Beaune. Wines by the glass are a raritymuseum and back vintage labels. Within the newly opened Bakehouse in France, but you’ll find more than 70, available in two differentCellar are wines that have been stored for several years in optimum pouring sizes, at this innovative restaurant, which describesconditions. Two Hands Wines’ co-proprietor Michael Twelftree says the the concept as “unique in Europe”. It’s the perfect solution forcollection showcases the winery’s award-winning premium shiraz wines any visitor from Down Under wanting to sample several greatdating back to its first vintage in 2000. “We want to make the cellar door Burgundies without breaking the bank.experience a memorable one for our visitors,” he says. “We have alwaysmade our wines to age and we are keen to give our customers the The list features rising stars like Vincent Dureuil-Janthial andopportunity to try our older vintages that have been stored perfectly since Stephanie Aladame, along with big names like Bernard Morey, Simonbottling.” The launch coincides with a new food offering of tasting platters Bize and Alain Gras and rarities like Comte Lafond and Coche-Dury.and chocolate truffles made from Two Hands’ Muscat and Moscato. Prices per glass range from two to 47 euros and set lunches start from 23 euros. Phone +33 3 8024 1206; www.bernard-loiseau.com. The cellar door is in a restored 19th century stone cottage withthe adjacent Bakehouse, a former kitchen turned tasting and dining The lovely Hotel Le Cep, a collection of 14th-18th century buildings,facility, featuring a glass floor overlooking the cellars. Phone (08) is part of the Small Luxury Hotels group and the perfect base for8562 4566; www.twohandswines.com. exploring Burgundy. It’s in the old town centre but within strolling distance of the vines. See www.slh.com/france/beaune/cepfra.html. March/April 2010 W I N E S TAT E 11

briefsRUTHERGLEN REVELATIONS BIG WEEK OF CELEBRATIONVISITORS to THE THIRD annual New South Wales Wine Week - designed toRutherglen are being appeal to consumers at all levels - has been scheduled for Marchoffered free behind- 14-20. The event kicks off on March 14 with Sydney Cellar Doorthe-scenes winery in Hyde Park South, which is predicted to be the state’s biggesttours taking in four outdoor wine event. That will be followed by a week-long celebrationof the North-East of NSW wine in restaurants throughout the city and state.Victorian region’siconic wineries. Visitors It’s expected more than 20,000 people will converge on Hydewill have the chance to Park for an event which will see over 110 wineries from all overchat with winemakers NSW travel to the city. Food from regional producers and Sydneyas they discover how sparkling shiraz is made, learn the journey restaurateurs will complement the wine on offer and all-dayof the grape from vineyard to bottle, experience barrel sampling of entertainment will help create a festival atmosphere. Tastingcurrent vintages, and learn the difference between grapes varieties. glasses will cost $5 and tasting tickets $4 each.Tours are offered daily from Monday to Thursday from 2pm andinclude Pfeiffer (Mondays), Campbells (Tuesdays), Rutherglen The Sunday festivities will be followed by Dine with New SouthEstates (Wednesdays) and Cofield Wines (Thursdays). Wales Wine, during which participating restaurants will offer a special lunch and dinner meal matched with a glass of premium NSW wine Cofield Wines winemaker Damien Cofield is excited about his for under $50; and four Tour of the Regions dinners, at which leadingwinery’s participation in the new tour: “This is something we’ve been chefs will craft degustation menus matched to the state’s best wines.wanting to get involved with for some time, so it’s great that we’re For program details see www.nswwineweek.com.au.now in a position to offer these regular winery tours on a weeklybasis. We’re finding that cellar door visitors are now looking for an REGIONS FORM A DUET‘experience’ rather than just a tasting.” For details and bookings,contact Damien Adams at the Rutherglen Wine Experience. Phone WINEMAKERS from the Cowra and Canowindra regions have(02) 6033 6302; www.rutherglenvic.com. united to promote their district, which they believe is undervalued both in New South Wales and around Australia. Cowra has longWINE SOCIETY’S DIFFERENT BREW been a source of top-class chardonnay, providing the fruit for the initial Petaluma Chardonnay and for Rothbury Estate for many THE WINE Society has branched years, but is reinventing itself as a boutique region. out with the launch of its own beer: John Boston Premium Lager. The “As the industry monoliths move out of the district, the remaining new brew was created by master family-orientated winegrowers are focused on developing their regional brewer Bruce Peachey to a identity through careful winemaking with the least environmental impact specific brief prepared by Wine of any region in Australia,” says John Geber of Cowra Estate. “We are Society members. His mission not the first families of Australian wine,” says Cowra Regional Vineyards was to produce a beer displaying Association president, Swinging Bridge owner Tom Ward, “but we are the same complexities of flavour, winegrowing families with a rich history and heritage, and we are the aroma and texture as those found icon winemakers of our region with a vested interest in its success.” in premium wines. Vignerons are committed to ensuring that the wines deliver John Boston Premium Lager is both quality and value. Local grapes, once taken from Cowra for named after the free settler who processing, are now made into wine locally. On-site wineries includebecame the colony’s first brewer in 1796. Bruce describes his new Wallington, Tom’s Waterhole and the oldest winery in the region,creation as a “luxury lager”. The brewing technique is 100 per cent Windowrie. The group plans regular roadshows to Sydney and othernatural, using only the highest-quality natural ingredients and no states to make sure their wines remain visible in a fierce market.preservatives or additives. “We use prime malted barley, premiumlocal hops and specially selected yeast, and the purity of flavour is The Cowra region is one of the first to develop the Sustainable Wineoutstanding,” he says. Partnership, a framework for sustainability which encompasses the The 2010 John Boston brew is more palatable than the 1796 drop, Eight National Environmental Outcomes of the National Heritagewhich was brewed from malted maize bittered with the leaves and Trust, the Winemakers’ Federation of Australia’s Australian Winestalks of cape gooseberries. Boston himself had little opportunity to Industry Stewardship Program (AWIS) and the priorities of the Lachlandevelop the quality of his beers. In late 1804, trading opportunities Catchment Management Authority. While Cowra and Canowindra’stook him to Tonga, where he received a warm welcome and was reputation was built on the quality of chardonnay, the new generationinvited to a banquet. If the story is true, he was the main course. of wineries, including Mulyan, Windowrie, Swinging Bridge and SpringJohn Boston Premium Lager is available in six-packs or in cartons Ridge, have received a number of national trophies and awards for otherof 24 330ml bottles. varieties such as shiraz, sangiovese and shiraz/viognier blends.12 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2010 “Although Cowra and Canowindra have been making wine for over 30 years, it is the future that we are excited about,” said Tom Ward. “We have the vineyards, people, and commitment and we are pleased to be seeing in a new era for our region.”

Serafino Wines at McLarens on the Lake Winery Convention Centre Resort Hotel Kangarilla Road, McLaren Vale, South AustraliaPh 08 8323 0157 Fax 08 8323 0158 Email [email protected] www.serafinowines.com.au

nzbriefswhat’s happening on the NZ wine sceneNEW CHIEF WINEMAKER AT MONTANA TOP CENTRAL OTAGO WINEMAKER RESIGNSPATRICK Materman, Winestate’s New Zealand Winemaker of theYear for 2001, has been appointed the new chief winemaker of CAROL Bunn, the winemakerPernod Ricard NZ, replacing Jeff Clarke. The country’s largest behind several of Central Otago’swine producer is still widely known by its original name and most most highly regarded pinot noirfamous brand - Montana. labels, has resigned from Vinpro, the contract winemaking facility. Jeff, an Australian, spent 16 years in the New Zealand industry’s Vinpro’s 20 clients include Wooingtop production post. A graduate of Roseworthy College, he worked Tree, Judge Rock, Mitre Rock andat Penfolds in the Barossa Valley, then at the Tisdall winery in Grasshopper Rock.Victoria, before joining Montana in 1993. Often dubbed the “Queen of After spending more than half his time travelling around the Central Otago Pinot Noir”, Carolcompany’s four wineries and in overseas markets, he likens grew up on a Central Otagothe job to that of an orchestra conductor, planning “the range farm. After completing a postgraduate diploma in viticulture andof the program” and working “to keep everyone in time and oenology at Lincoln University, she worked in Martinborough,harmony”. His decision to leave was not easy, he says, “but it Canterbury and Oregon, before building her reputation during fourwas time for a change”. successful vintages at Akarua winery, in Bannockburn. Patrick Materman, formerly the company’s Marlborough regional After Akarua’s 2002 pinot noirs scooped several top prizes, Carolwinemaker, joined Montana in 1990 and spent the first four years was head-hunted by Vinpro to design and run the 1000-tonnein Auckland before shifting to Blenheim, where he will continue contract facility. “Some overseas buyers look down on winesto be based. After deciding at the age of six to study horticulture made at contract facilities, where wines are made at a price perat university and litre,” she says, “but it means smaller growers are able to have anbecome a flower experienced winemaker and top-of-the-line facilities, instead of agrower (“A Dutch tin shed winery and a graduate winemaker.”father’s influence!”he explains), he Carol plans to still make wine for some small producers, develop herswitched to wine own vineyard and label - and pursue her growing interest in food.and now has hisown sauvignon FANS GET A FROSTY RESPONSEblanc vineyard inthe Awatere Valley. FROST fans are stirring controversy in Marlborough. The giant fans are used by vineyard owners to guard against frost damage,‘TIDAL WAVE’ OVERSUPPLY WARNING but ‘lifestyle’ residents complain that the noise is causing them sleepless nights. Late last year, two vineyards - one with 38 frost-AFTER huge demand in 2008, New Zealand’s grapevine fighting wind machines, the other with eight - were issued withnurseries - a seismograph needle of the wine industry - are noise abatement notices by the Marlborough District Council. Newexperiencing a dramatic drop in orders. But nursery managers Zealand Winegrowers, however, argues that the fans are essentialare warning that wine producers, already dealing with a glut, to protect vineyards from spring frosts.have thousands of hectares of vines coming on stream over thenext couple of years. The Wairau Valley’s switch from pastoral farming to viticulture is not the key issue, says Philip Gregan, chief executive officer of Large-scale plantings froze last year but Ben Wickham, of Ormond New Zealand Winegrowers. “The land use has remained rural …Nursery, says that in 2008 developers were slow to abandon their The land use which has changed in the region is the subdivisionplans. “There were 10 or 11 million vines that went into the ground, of rural land into rural residential developments. New residentialwhich means there is a tidal wave of fruit yet to come in … so we dwellers in rural areas often have unrealistic and unreasonableare potentially facing a considerably larger crop than we ever expectations as to the reality of a rural environment.”envisaged. If we had problems in ’08 and ’09, then 2010 and 2011have the potential to be an even bigger problem.” The local council has recently proposed changes that will allowWith supply contracts now hard to come by, some growers are it to assess whether frost fans meet noise standards before theyuprooting sauvignon blanc or pinot noir vines and replacing are erected. Recommendations include reducing the acceptablethem with the industry’s current darling - pinot gris. Others are decibel level from 60 to 55, and a ‘setback’ requiring fans to betop-grafting vines to pinot gris. located no closer than 100m from the boundary of an adjoining property under different ownership.14 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2010

c o o p e r ’s c r e e d WORDS MICHAEL COOPERSavvy supremacy as drinkers spark a chardonnay crisisMARLBOROUGH produces classy, elegant from grace to the popularity of the Bridget Many of New Zealand’s top chardonnaychardonnays that can mature gracefully Jones columns, books and films, noting producers are also swinging away from high-for several years, according to Winestate’s Jones’s tendency to drown her love-related impact styles, turning down the oak volume,latest tasting of the region’s wines, featured sorrows in large volumes of chardonnay. and looking to inject greater elegance,in this issue. But who is going to buy them? delicacy and longevity into their wines.Chardonnay sales are in the doldrums, on New Zealand’s relatively cool climateboth sides of the Tasman. Until five years is well suited to chardonnay production, Take Church Road Reserve Chardonnay,ago, chardonnay ruled the white wine roost in although many of the wines lack personality. designed as a powerful, bold Hawke’s BayNew Zealand, but Kiwis now drink 50 per cent In the Financial Times, Jancis Robinson style that celebrates the region’s lush, ripemore sauvignon blanc than chardonnay. criticised chardonnay as New Zealand’s stone-fruit flavours, seasoned with toasty “major underperforming asset … The oak. Since 2004, to enhance its finesse and Why has chardonnay been eclipsed typical New Zealand chardonnay does food-friendliness, the grapes have been fullyby sauvignon blanc? Until a few years indeed show prominent acidity but too hand-harvested and whole-bunch-pressed,ago, it was impossible to buy a decent rarely is this accompanied by really and the amount of new French oak employedMarlborough sauvignon blanc for less than interesting flavour … All too few have any has been cut from two-thirds to half.$NZ10, but well-respected brands, such really intriguing character or convincingas Villa Maria Private Bin and Montana, potential to develop interest after a few Fromm Clayvin Vineyard Chardonnay offersare now often on special at below $10. years in bottle.” a vivid contrast. Marlborough winemakerThese discounted sauvignon blancs can Hatsch Kalberer is looking for a “scented, dry,be irresistible - both fashionable and In response to the intensifying worldwide minerally expression of the Clayvin Vineyard’sbargain-priced. demand for lighter, crisper white wines, terroir, free from new wood flavourings”. In many families, especially since wine Many of New Zealand’s top chardonnay producersarrived in supermarkets, women have are also swinging away from high-impact styles,taken over the role of buyers. Some wine turning down the oak volume.marketers argue that women prefer fresh,vibrantly fruity wines with little or no oak most chardonnay producers in New The vines are cultivated in clay soils at ainfluence - and therefore sauvignon blanc Zealand are currently making their wines gently sloping site in the upper Brancottrather than chardonnay. in a more ‘fruit-driven’, less oaky style Valley, and at the winery, the grape’s natural than a decade ago. This trend includes a structure and balance are preserved. Pernod Ricard NZ (formerly Montana) wave of chardonnays handled entirely in The wine’s acidity is never adjusted,last year announced it no longer wanted stainless steel tanks. Labelled as ‘unoaked’, it undergoes a full malolactic fermentationmany of the grapes it had traditionally ‘unwooded’, ‘oak-free’ or even ‘virgin’ and is fermented to absolute dryness.sourced from Gisborne, where chardonnay (untouched by wood), these wines place Only seasoned oak barrels are used andis by far the most widely planted variety. their accent squarely on their fresh, vibrant the wine typically stays in wood for 16 toThe company stressed that it had tried fruit flavours, ‘uncluttered’ (or ‘unhampered’, 18 months, ageing on its light yeast lees,to stimulate demand for chardonnay by as one producer put it) by oak. with minimal stirring.launching new products (single-vineyardbottlings) and styles (unoaked), but the But unoaked chardonnay can easily Refined chardonnays, often slightlyrunaway success of sauvignon blanc had be boring. Chardonnay is not highly austere in their youth, are unlikely to shineeroded demand for chardonnay. aromatic and its varietal flavours are more on the show circuit, and nor does Fromm restrained than those of sauvignon blanc enter competitions. But notably weighty, In Australia, too, chardonnay has been or riesling. A gentle seasoning of oak, citrusy and nutty, finely poised wines like thisreplaced by sauvignon blanc as the adding richness and complexity but not confirm which variety produces the greatest,biggest-selling white wine variety. In the overpowering the subtle fruit flavours, most complex dry white wines of all.UK, millions of consumers have switched simply makes chardonnay more interestingfrom chardonnay to Italian pinot grigio or and enjoyable. We need more chardonnays like this - andsauvignon blanc from New Zealand, Chile greater appreciation of them.and South Africa. Oz Clarke, a leading UKwine critic, even attributed chardonnay’s fall March/April 2010 W I N E S TAT E 15

europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MWContinental shrinkage, while Britain makes a bigger markSLIGHTLY more modest harvest volumes density vineyard plantings in the world, had spot-on weather; we had a great latein Europe for 2009 are into their third especially those in the hot, dry, central summer. Everything is in our favour.”consecutive year. France has regained meseta, where yields are consequentlythe number one biggest producer slot, very low. So this level of uprooting may After a couple of rough vintages,having lost it to Italy with the 2008 vintage. not reduce overall production by so the UK needed some decent weather,France’s harvest volume may be about 48 much. It’s trickier to get an early accurate especially as the country has beenmillion hectolitres in 2009 (not quite four picture for the total volume of Spain’s planting like crazy - on a scale two-times the size of Australia’s harvests), but harvest because the country comprises thirds that of Tasmania - in the pastit is still low for the five-year average, and a number of autonomous regions which few years. From a 20-year low point ofmay just be beginning to reflect necessity report individually. vineyard hectarage in 2004, plantingsin the industry, as both exports and have increased by 45 per cent in the pastdomestic consumption continue to fall, So, overall, the amount of uprooting five years, to over 1100ha. So in terms ofrecession notwithstanding. may sound a lot, especially in the context hectares, the entire UK industry is about of Australia’s approximately 175,000ha as big as McWilliam’s Wines. Italy’s harvest is expected to be total vineyard; this is the amount Europeabout 46 million hectolitres, only just is looking to remove! But taken together, And the mix of grape varieties and winefalling into the number two slot. Part the uprooting last year represents a styles is changing. Recent plantings areof the fall in production is thought to decrease of vineyard area across the 27 of Champagne grape varieties - pinot noirbe due to the European Union wine European Union states of approaching and chardonnay - and it’s bubbly that’ssector reform measures that came into two per cent. being made. Guy Tresnan says, “Both our still and sparkling categories willThe big year for us will be 2012 and we are gearing grow. Traditionally we’re two-thirds stillourselves up to that year, when there will be much to one-third sparkling, but this year we’llmore sparkling wine coming on to the market. see that level out a bit and by 2012-2013, we’ll be 70 per cent sparkling and 30 pereffect in the 2008-09 campaign year, At the opposite end of Europe’s cent still. And this will be because of newincluding the aim of providing subsidies volume production scale, the UK has plantings. In 2007 we planted 80 acresto voluntarily uproot up to 175,000ha produced a ‘bumper crop’. There was (32ha), all for sparkling fruit.”of European vineyard in an attempt to great weather during the Wimbledonbring production into closer line with tennis. This is always the last week of It’s the traditional method sparklers onconsumption. In a three year campaign, June and the first week of July, which which the UK is building its reputation. Andthe subsidies are greatest in year one. coincidently is the critical time for Chapel Down is making new sparklers toThe OIV (International Organisation of flowering, which therefore had an easy add to its range of five bubblies. “We’llVine and Wine) has reported that France time of it this year. The vintage is looking have three new sparkling wine products,”is uprooting about 10,000ha and Italy to be of decent quantity and quality. says Guy. “And the Brut NV, which is thenearly 12,000. Julia Trustram-Eve, the marketing biggest-selling English sparkling wine, manager of English Wine Producers, will become more premium, with more The third top producing country in the organisation that promotes English pinot noir. Our top-end Trilogy will haveEurope, Spain, is reported to be reducing wine, says there were “a lot of smiley a blanc de blancs and we’re looking at aits vineyard area by about 45,000ha. This winemakers in the UK this year!” blancs de noirs.”may be the equivalent of a third of theAustralian vineyard, but the scale and One of those smiley faces is Guy There’s another celebratory reasonheritage of wine production is completely Tresnan, the sales and marketing why the Brits are delighted with such adifferent in Europe - it is just three per director at Chapel Down, the biggest good quality and quantity vintage - withcent of Spain’s total vineyard area. producer of English wines, who says, much of the increased quantity due to “Our quality was exceptional. Flowering new plantings rather than significantly Spain also has some of the lowest- higher yields - and that is the Olympics in 2012. Julia Trustram-Eve says, “The big year for us will be 2012 and we are gearing ourselves up to that year, when16 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2010

there will be much more sparkling winecoming on to the market.” One of the things about traditional methodbubbly is that they need to rest on theirlees in bottle for some months or yearsbefore they can be sold. Guy adds, “Wehave sparkling stock earmarked for theOlympics. I’ll be hugely disappointed if wedon’t see a lot of consumption of Englishsparkling wine during the Olympics.” Now whether the weather is a result ofclimate change is something of a mootpoint, but English wines have beengetting a lot better over the past decadeor so, and that’s only partly down togreater professionalism and improvedwinemaking expertise. According toRichard Selley, emeritus professor ofgeology from Imperial College London,the average summer temperature ofsouthern England, where virtually allthe vineyards are planted, may rise by4 to 5C by 2080. He’s even said someparts of the south may be too hot forvines by 2080. He explains the changing mix of grapevarieties being planted in the UK injust the past 30 years which is allowingthe country to successfully plant thoseChampagne varieties. “There’s a rangeof grape varieties from cool climate tomedium to hot. We were at the [cool]Germanic end in 1980, with riesling andMuller-Thurgau. We’re already movingto pinot noir, pinot meunier and morechardonnay [in the intermediate groupbefore warm].” But the professor paints a gloomylong-term picture, saying the benefits tothe UK wine industry of climate changewill be short-lived. “In the next 20 to 30years the future is very bright for Englishviticulture. After that we’ll lose interest.By 2050 I doubt there’ll be much left ofwhat we call civilisation.” A soberingthought, indeed, for all of us. March/April 2010 W I N E S TAT E 17

winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEYChardonnay - a wine that needs the Midas touchCHARDONNAY is commonly viewed as a Chardonnay is planted in all parts of can make their mark on the final product.blank canvas on which winemakers can Australia. Some of our best wines come The longer the juice spends in contact withcreate their own artwork. The analogy from the cooler regions, including the the skin the more flavour will come out.implies that chardonnay is devoid of its own Adelaide Hills, Eden Valley, the Mornington Flavour is concentrated towards the outsidecharacter, and needs to be worked on in Peninsula, the Yarra Valley and Margaret of the grape, closest to the skin, and in thethe winery to produce a stylish wine. But is River. Small regions such as Orange, skin itself. But skin contact applied to whitethat really true? Macedon, Beechworth and parts of wines can cause coarseness, so it must be Tasmania also make outstanding wines. carefully applied. Winemakers often wax lyrical about howtheir wine has hints of classic Burgundian The climate and choice of clones seem The level of malolactic fermentation (MLF)nuts or Chablis-style minerality. So there determining factors on wine styles before in a chardonnay will determine the richnessis obviously a recognisable style coming you enter the winery. Cooler climates, on the palate and often affect the levelout of France. In Burgundy, for example, achieved by a combination of degrees of of noticeable acidity. MLF produces twothe greatest wines are from the Cote de latitude or altitude, as well as moderating useful by-products for chardonnay: ethylBeaune sub-region’s old limestone soils, maritime influence, will result in higher lactate, which enhances the sensation ofwhich chardonnay loves. A number of levels of natural acidity and a more linear weight or body on the palate; and diacetyl,world-famous appellations are devoted structure. Aromas will often be focused which gives that desirable buttery aromato the vine. Running north to south, the around the green and citrus fruits. The which builds complexity.main ones are Corton Charlemagne, warmer the climate the more the wine willMeursault, Puligny-Montrachet and display stone and tropical fruit notes. Oak, almost certainly French, needs to beChassagne-Montrachet. Montrachet are kept in balance and accompany the fruitgenerally concentrated, full-bodied wineswith higher alcohol, and Meursault is There is no denying the fact that it is in the winery wherebuttery, while Chassagne-Montrachet has the major decisions are made with chardonnay.a nuttier character. All these wines arebarrel fermented, which is the best way A vast range of clones is used in Australia, rather than dominate it. Oak can produceto achieve a proper integration between including the Argentinean Mendoza, an array of aromas in the wine, includingoak and wine. French Dijon clones (76, 78, 95, 96) and vanilla, oatmeal, biscuit, nuts, butterscotch, American Davis clones. At an altitude pencil shavings or smoky. Chablis is often the alter ego of the of 550m in South Australia’s High EdenCote de Beaune white Burgundies. The sub-region, Mountadam vineyard was Former International Winemaker of theregion is cooler and geographically one of the first to plant chardonnay in Year Philip Shaw has been making winescloser to Champagne than Burgundy. South Australia and claims to have a rare for nearly 40 years, working for Rosemount,It is on the edge of the northern limits clone called Marble Hill (named after the then Southcorp, before he resigned toof successful grape harvesting and the winter residence of the Governor of South concentrate on his own vineyard andaustere climate plays an important part Australia), dating back to 1860, which was label in the cool, high altitude region ofin the wines’ make-up. brought over by a French horticulturist from Orange. Philip’s Koomooloo vineyard is at Burgundy. The clone was planted by the 900m on the side of the extinct volcano, The Chablisiens are split down the middle winery’s founder, David Wynn, in 1972. The Mt Canobolas. His Chardonnay No 11on whether to use new oak in their wines. first vintage, 2006, was released last year. provides an example of oak regimes.The traditional non-oak brigade produces In Western Australia, the low-yielding Gin The wine is fermented using 100 per centsubtle, lighter wines, traditionally fermented Gin clone was the first to be planted and native yeast; 25 per cent is fermented inin concrete vats or stainless steel. There is still used in the Margaret River region by tank, while 25 per cent sees new barrelsis a strong minerality, gun-flint and steely top producers such as Pierro. and 50 per cent goes into one-to-two-character in these wines that displays its year-old oak.terroir clearly with hints of saline or oyster But there is no denying the fact that it isshells - which seems to emanate from the in the winery where the major decisions The old phrase, ‘You can’t make a silkfossilised remains of sea creatures in the are made with chardonnay. The use of purse out of a sow’s ear’, is undeniably aptsoil. This type of Chablis is unmistakable, indigenous yeast, barrel fermentation, for chardonnay. It needs to come from acompletely different from the rich, buttery, battonage (lees stirring) and type of oak all quality vineyard, but it also needs the Midasstone-fruit style of Burgundy. touch to create a wine with style.18 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2010

TheHEDONIST by Walter Clappiso6 ShirazJames Halliday 93 points!This famous winecrops up in all thebest places...Poured on British Airways Business ClassHas been served at the table of Sachin Tendulkar,one of the best batsman who ever livedNobu, Mayfair (UK)Nobu, New York (USA)Blue Hill, New York (USA) - Where PresidentObama had his Inauguration DinnerRetailersFassina Liquor (SA)Cellarbrations – Tappy’s at The Hub (SA)Cellarbrations Blackwood (SA)St Peter’s Cellars (SA)The Arkaba (SA)Ocean Grove Cellars (Vic)Cloud Wine Cellars (Vic)Best Cellars (NSW)IGA Ainslie (ACT)Waitrose (UK)www.hedonistwines.com.auPh: +61 8 8323 8818

winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KINGThat Leuven feeling - visiting the home of Stella ArtoisSENSATIONAL headlines like ‘Stella festive beer became such an immediate family could lead lives of contemplationBrewer InBev Set To Swallow Bud’ sent hit with the locals, company legend has it, without taking the final step of becoming ashivers down the spines of the inhabitants that they have been brewing it ever since. nun. It’s not that quiet these days, though;of Leuven in 2008, when the Belgian beer the UNESCO World Heritage-listed site nowgiant took over Anheuser-Busch for a Their descendants aren’t so fond of the houses students and visiting academics.whopping $US52 billion. The birthplace amber fluid today, it seems. Belgian beerof Stella Artois was terrified that its role as consumption has dropped by 20 per cent Old-style markets aside, shopping is asglobal HQ of the world’s largest brewer in the past decade. But such stats are hard much of a serious pastime in Leuven aswould be usurped by New York. Fears were to believe as you walk the cobbled streets drinking. Big-name stores cluster alonglaid to rest in early 2009, though, when the of downtown Leuven lined with over 170 Bondgenotenlaan and the traffic-freeannual shareholders’ meeting voted that bars. Stylish boutiques and pastry shops Diestestraat. If quirky boutiques and interiorthe capital of Flemish Brabant - population are also as commonplace as the cobbled design stores are more to your fancy, head100,000 - would retain its historic role and courtyards that lie behind stone-arched for Mechelsestraat and Parijsstraat. Rain is athe Big Apple would only be “a special entrances. As you round the corner into constant companion in low-lying Belgium andoffice to help manage the company”. the Grote Markt - the sort of spectacular that’s a good thing. You can either tramp the medieval town square Belgium is famous streets with your umbrella working overtime or Sentiment is rare in big business these for - three things skewer your attention: the duck into a larger number of Leuven’s manydays. But AB InBev, as the company was 236 statues of Leuven’s medieval worthies quality, rather than cosy, restaurants.renamed, released a statement that would lining the 15th century facade of the townbring a tear to the eye of even a hardened hall; the vast spires of St Peter’s Church; and There’s something for everyone at Tres oncynic. “Our company started in Leuven Fonske - a statue of a student holding a book Muntstraat (www.tr3simple.be) from tapasin one shape or form in 1366,” said CEO in one hand and pouring a tankard of beer through Mediterranean, Asian and luxeCarlos Brito. “That is valuable. And even the over his head with the other. A scene all the Belgian cuisine - a very chic eatery behindfact that the United States now generates more affecting because Leuven was almost a medieval façade. They don’t mind if you40 per cent of AB InBev’s earnings does not completely destroyed during World War I and only want to sip one glass of wine, either.make up for that. One of the biggest things painstakingly rebuilt in the 1920s and ’30s. The edgy De Werf (“Under Construction”)we have in the United States is imports: on Hogeschoolplein serves everything fromthey come from Europe. From Leuven. The If the weather is nippy - and even if it’s not pasta to wraps, but go local with een man’swhole thing about the heritage, the source - try to stop for lunch at the Grote Markt’s brood - a scooped-out loaf filled with a richand the romance.” And whoever thought most historic restaurant - t’Zwart Schaap. stew. The name means “one man’s bread”that those who drink beer think beer? The name translates as ‘the black sheep’ but the menu issues a warning that it’s more but you certainly won’t feel like an outsider than enough for two (www.dewerf-leuven. AB InBev employs about 3000 people as you tuck into classic Belgian dishes in be). If Michelin-starred establishments arein Belgium, mostly in Leuven. But the first the restaurant’s wood-panelled interior. You a siren call to you, head for Couvert Couvertthing you notice when you hit the town, can look at the menu but be sure to order (www.couvertcouvert.be) for toney selectionsabout 40 minutes’ drive from Brussels, are the house special - rabbit cooked in Gueuze, such as guineafowl from Bresse Rossini andcrowds of students on clapped-out bikes. the blended lambic beer traditionally served scallops with hazelnuts from Piedmont andFar from just being a one-company town in Champagne bottles. Parmesan. The wine list is outstanding.producing over 10 million hectolitres ofbeer a year, Leuven also houses Belgium’s In the nearby Oude Markt (Old Market), Leuven doesn’t offer much in the way of longoldest university, with the first colleges you’ll find about 40 cheek-by-jowl drinking walks to work off a hefty lunch - everythingfounded in 1425. That’s about 60 years dens which describe themselves as “the of note is within a 20-minute stroll from theafter the first brewery opened its doors, but longest bar in Europe”. The modest little centre of town. The Kruidtuin botanic gardens,Sebastien Artois didn’t show up for work brewery Domus - which morphed into the like the university, are the oldest in Belgium.as the master brewer at the Den Horen giant Stella Artois brewery covering the Founded in 1738, the avenues of plants arebrewery until 1707. The name Den Horen is entire north-eastern edge of town - is located punctuated by Baroque statuary and textbookstill used on the Stella Artois label, which is here and you can stop and sip a beer and gurgling fountains. A combo ticket to thea bit of Johnny-come-lately in the scheme drink to where it all started. If you need a bit treasury of St Peter’s Church reveals theof things. First brewed as a Christmas beer of peace and quiet, slip around the corner greatest work of Flemish master Dirk Bouts- stella means star in Latin - in 1926, the to the 14th century Grote Begijnhof, another - The Last Supper - while the Leopold Vander medieval institution where women of good Kelen Museum, located in the 16th century20 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2010

mansion of one of the town’s former mayors, Endorsed by: Supported by: Held in: The Official Airline:is filled with period rooms and displays thesort of historic wealth that originally attractedSebastien Artois to set up shop. Do you know that Hoegaarden is thefastest-growing European beer in the worldin popularity? I didn’t either until I visited itsbirthplace, only a short drive from Leuven.Originally made from wheat, barley, orangeand spiced coriander, Hoegaarden isthe king of wit (white) beers in Belgium.Top fermented and re-fermented in the bottle,it has a long history stretching back to the 15thcentury but production stopped entirely in the1950s. Then in 1966 a master brewer namedPierre Celis revived wit beer production inHoegaarden. And although AB InBev boughtthe brand in 1985, the commercial gianthas stayed true to Celis’s principles, exceptto launch more “female friendly” Rosee(raspberry) and Citron (lemon) versions in2007 and 2008. The absolute pinnacle ofthe brand, though, is Hoegaarden GrandCru - a full, fruit style with hints of vanillacitrus and clove, it’s guaranteed to have beerconnoisseurs in raptures. The best place to toast Hoegaarden’sspectacular revival - which has seen it wina swag of international awards from a goldaward in the speciality ales section at theAustralian Beer Awards to a Platinum Awardat the World Beer Championships in the US -is Kouterhof, the restaurant which adjoins theheritage De Kluis Brewery (www.kouterhof.be). A great lunch of traditional game dishes,mussels and spectacular pommes friteson the side should be followed by a tour(tickets are free with a meal at the Kouterhof)of the adjacent Hoegaarden museum- t’Witgebrouw (www.twitgebrouw.be). Inanother triumph of feeling over commercialreality, AB InBev stopped brewing beer inthe town of Hoegaarden in 2005 because ofefficiency concerns about the old brewery.But there were no dry eyes in town on awintry February day in 2008 when the beerbrewing giant reinstalled new fermentationtanks in the proud little town that could. March/April 2010 W I N E S TAT E 21 _WSA 2010 ad_P.indd 1 8/31/09 6:55:24 PM

winehistory WORDS VALMAI HANKELPromoting Australian wines from the mid-1950s to the early 1970s - part 2 of 3LAST time we looked at some of the of a few pence. Like sherry, for instance.” wish to study the wines and further theirAustralian Wine Board’s promotional All worthy sentiments, except for the knowledge of them.” For this purpose, aactivities from the mid-1950s to the advice that sherry “improves in bottle and qualified speaker was recommended, orearly 1970s, preserved in a publicity in cask” for five years. perhaps films on wine in Australian lifealbum currently held by the Australian could be shown. And you were remindedWine and Brandy Corporation. During As mentioned last time, women were that it was necessary to get a licence.these years the board, forerunner of especially targeted, with advertisementsthe corporation, ran an Australia-wide appearing in women’s magazines or in Australian wines were “friendly to food”.advertising campaign promoting wine. columns addressed to women. If men’s Many of the ads included recipes usingEye-catching colourful advertisements magazines of the day carried the same wine, among them Italian pot roast withappeared in the daily press and in message then they haven’t been preserved anchovies, savoury oxtail, and sherrymagazines such as Australian Women’s in the AWB album. Many of the ads and trifle. Because the heat in cookingWeekly and Woman’s Day, and the board booklets reflected the blatantly sexist and evaporated the alcohol, it was acceptablepublished many leaflets and pamphlets. blokey attitude to drinking wine which was to cook with wine for kids. ubiquitous at the time. None exemplifies this A major catchcry of this campaign was, more than an undated pamphlet published Barbecues were especially appropriate‘Life is more pleasant with wine’, and by the AWB around 1960 on planning a occasions for wine drinking: “Wine makesadvertisements touting this sentiment wine tasting. It was the women’s job to a barbecue glamorous - so simply!appeared regularly. Fortified wines and provide the food, preferably “fork dishes”, Entertaining is wonderful fun when youbrandy as well as table wines were but “not a hot curry”. The only place for make it casual, minus fuss - glamorous, too, when you add wine. Claret is the lilting, lightIn the best-conducted Wine Tastings, it is advisable for the organisers to co-optthe services of a few ladies to pour the wines.promoted. Sherry was often featured, women in the male-dominated world of red wine (but, so inexpensive) that makesand seemed to attract some particularly wine tasting was as pourers. “In the best- a magical success of barbecues. It’s suchlyrical and alliterative language from conducted Wine Tastings, it is advisable a friendly, moderate drink, it sets the scenethe copywriters. “A refreshing glass for the organisers to co-opt the services of for the truest enjoyment.” Furthermore, theof sherry has a way of dissolving the a few ladies (wives of committeemen, for “light and delicate white wines - Hock,day’s difficulties in a magic moment of instance) to pour the wines.” “Someone Chablis, Sauternes, Moselle and Rieslingrest before dinner. Sherry soothes while with previous experience”, presumably a - are wonderful for barbecues too” as longit stimulates, relaxes yet releases new bloke, should provide these ladies with as they were served chilled.energy. It’s a perfect ’tween meals pick- instructions beforehand on the amount ofyou-up, too.” How could anyone not be wine to be given to each guest. A pamphlet, How to start a wine cellar,allured into rushing out and buying some gave advice on what wine to serve withfrom “your grocer, department store or Guidelines on what and how much to what food. Burgundy or claret should nothotel bottle department”? “Sherry is your pour included the advice to have a tasting accompany fish “because of its content ofstart of companionship”; just the wine to of table wines only, when half a bottle per tannin, which in combination with fish isserve “when he gets home. (What a day! person was recommended. Presumably liable to result in indigestion”. This conflictsLet’s have a sherry).” Sherry was hailed the men couldn’t be trusted not to pour with advice given in 1957 advertisements,as wonderful chilled, served either straight too much. The ladies, “‘and they alone, which after observing that you will getor “on the rocks”. And it “adds flavour [should] handle the bottles and pour the a “happy surprise” when you first tasteto food, too”’. Furthermore, sherry was wine”. Significantly, “guests should not help white wine with fish, suggested youinexpensive. “Happily, we can find, in this themselves”. After all, the taster’s sobriety have “red wine if you prefer it”. For manyrather expensive world, a few delightful should not be impaired: “Party spirit should years this was a recurring theme in thethings which can be enjoyed for the price not be allowed to dominate the evening to advertisements: “There are no musts about the inconvenience of those who genuinely wine - the right wine is the one you like.”22 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2010

CIAO ITALIA! Italy 2010 WINE TOUR OF ITALY 11 September - 29 September 2010 - in conjunction with The Australian newspaper & Travelrite International. Hosted by Winestate editor/publisher Peter Simic, the 15-night tour from mid-September features fascinating and informative visits to Rome, Umbria (Orvieto) and fabulous Tuscany (Montalcino & Montepulciano) for Brunello and Chianti and visitsto Siena and Florence.Then onto the Piemonte region (Alba) for Barolo and Barbaresco;a visit to Turin before moving across to the spectacular Lake Garda, our base for visits to northern Alto Adige and the eastern Verona region, near Venice.We will sample the wines, meet the winemakers and enjoy local cuisine while exploring towns and villages in the best Italian tradition.We stay in quality hotels in Rome, Siena, Florence, Parma, Alba, Milan and Riva del Garda. Peter Simic will open doors not normally available to tourists and ensure you have a rewarding and exciting time in outstanding surroundings. Peter’s knowledgeable and caring leadership will make this one of your best-ever wine & food holidays!

Tour of Italy 2010Paolo Manzone.THE ITINERARY DAY 3 Peter Simic, your tour guide, is an ideal host for this trip. Monday 13 September With a background in publishing and wine education overDAY 1 SIENA 30 years, his wine knowledge is extensive. In addition toSaturday 11 September After breakfast we will travel being the founding editor/publisher of Winestate, PeterDEPARTURE north by private coach to the was formerly the founding publisher of Wine & SpiritTour members depart Australian Orvieto sub-region in Umbria for (US), manager of the SA Wine Information Bureau, andcapital cities and travel on Singapore our first wine visit to the classic wine educator with SA Regency College. He is also aAirlines overnight services to Rome. Italian winery estate of Castello regular wine commentator in newspapers and on radio andIt will be possible for members to Delle Regine with the promise of television in all states. Peter has led a number of highlydepart Australia on an earlier day an Italian “Slow food” afternoon: successful wine tours: the Winestate tours to France in- accommodation will be offered good food, good wines and good 1999, 2003 and 2007, the QE2 Winestate cruise in 2001,at a Rome hotel for clients arriving people! Late afternoon we travel the Winestate tours to Italy in 2002 and 2005 and theearly. Please call for details. onto the wonderful city of Siena Winestate tours to Spain and Portugal in 2004 and 2008. for a three night stay.DAY 2 your expert tour leaderSunday 12 September DAY 4 ROME Tuesday 14 September On arrival mid-morning at Rome SIENAAirport, the tour group will be met This morning we will join ourby a private coach and travel to private coach to travel south tocentral Rome for an afternoon Montepulciano, a great Tuscansightseeing tour with a local hill town. It is the home ofguide before checking into the one of Italy’s most famoustour’s centrally located four-star red wines, Vino Nobile dihotel. The tour group will come Montepulciano, produced fromtogether for welcome drinks sangiovese and local varietieswith Peter Simic before dinner. such as canaiolo and mammolo.A good value local restaurant will We will visit key producers,be recommended. Fattoria del Cerro and the highly24 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2010

CIAO ITALIA!regarded Poliziano winery. time for lunch at leisure before Top & Centre: Sensi Vini barrel room and winery at night. Below: Monte del Frà.Afterwards we return to Siena we depart for the spectacularfor an evening of leisure. Castello di Gabbiano vineyard the company of the Paolo DAY 12 in Chianti (part of the Foster’s Manzone family at their winery. Wednesday 22 September DAY 5 group). There will be time for A number of local restaurants will MILANWednesday 15 September shopping on our return and be recommended for dinner. After breakfast we will continueSIENA good quality restaurants will be exploring the fine wines ofFollowing breakfast we travel south recommended for dinner. DAY 11 Piedmont. We will head northto the most famous wine area in Tuesday 21 September to the Novara and Vercelli Hillssouthern Tuscany, Montalcino, DAY 8 ALBA region, notable for the bold reds:home of Brunello di Montalcino. Saturday 18 September Today we have a fabulous Gattinara and Ghemme, producedHere we visit the magnificent Villa PARMA visit arranged to the famous from nebbiolo. Included will be aof the Argiano winery dating back This morning we will travel north Prunotto winery; a meeting cellar tour and hosted lunch byto the 1580 Renaissance period. for a day in the Emilia-Romagna with their winemaker Gianluca the dynamic Marrone family atThere will be time to explore the wine region, which covers an Torrengo, and a hosted lunch. Agricola Gian Piero Marrone.pleasant town of Montalcino. area from south of Bologna toWe will enjoy the first Winestate north of Parma. Here we visit theMagazine Celebration Lunch at a Gaviolo Family winery, wherenoted Michelin- starred restaurant Lambrusco and Gaviolo date backin Montalcino. An impressive to 1794. There will be free timemenu will be served with a range in Bologna and in late afternoonof top-ranking local wines selected we will continue on to Parma,by Peter Simic. our base for two nights. Parma is an important market townDAY 6 and the home of two of Italy’sThursday 16 September most famous culinary delights:FLORENCE Parmesan cheese and dry-curedAfter a morning free time in ham. Good value restaurants willSiena we travel further north for be recommended for dinner.vineyard visits in the well-knownChianti region located between DAY 9Siena and Florence. Sangiovese Sunday 19 September is the essential variety in Chianti, PARMAwith many of the best producers The morning will be free forusing it exclusively. We will visit individual activity. At lunchtimethe top vineyard of Sensi Vini and we will enjoy a Winestateenjoy structured tastings followed Magazine Celebration Lunchby a trip to the magnificent 15th at a high-quality Michelin-starredcentury Machiavellian structure restaurant. Peter Simic willof Villa Mangiacane. In late choose a range of prestige Italianafternoon we will travel on to wines that will match a fineour centrally located Florence menu. The evening will be free.hotel for a two-night stay.Good quality restaurants will be DAY 10recommended for dinner. Monday 20 September ALBADAY 7 After breakfast we will travelFriday 17 September west to the Piedmont regionFLORENCE and the delightful town of Alba,After breakfast we will enjoy famous for its white truffles,an optional short walking tour where we will stay for twoof Florence with a local guide, nights. Here we begin ourvisiting the Duomo, the Piazza visit with a tasting and tourdella Signoria, the Ponte Vecchio of the winery, Produttori deland this remarkable city’s other Barbaresco winery. After amain sights. There will be free complimentary lunch we enjoy March/April 2010 W I N E S TAT E 25

Tour of Italy 2010Later in the afternoon we visit the restaurant for a Winestate important La Montina winery for a will perform for us among thespectacular Castello di Luzzano Magazine Celebration Dinner. tour and lunch. The winery is in the statues of the estate.winery on the way to Milan for a There will be a carefully selected Franciorta region and dates back totwo night stay. menu, with local wines matched 1620 and Pope Paul VI. We then DAY 17 by Peter Simic to regional food. move on to the Masi Winery, near Monday 27 September DAY 13 Verona. Masi is one of Italy’s most DEPARTUREThursday 23 September DAY 14 important wineries, known for its After breakfast the tour group willMILAN Friday 24 September amarone style reds. If time permits be transferred to Milan’s MalpensaIn the morning we will enjoy a RIVA DEL GARDA they will also show us the historical Airport to join the internationaltour of the sights of Milan with After breakfast we will travel east Serego Alighieri Villa. flight back to Australia.a local guide. There will be free by private coach to Lake Garda andtime for independent activity in our hotel located right on the lake in DAY 15 DAY 18the afternoon before we come the small town of Riva del Garda. Saturday 25 September Tuesday 28 Septembertogether at a Michelin-starred On the way we visit the historically RIVA DEL GARDA EN ROUTETO AUSTRALIA The best wines are produced Marrone family. between Lake Garda and Verona DAY 19 and in the elevated Alto Adige Wednesday 29 September region to the north.Valpolicella and EARLY MORNING ARRIVAL Bardolino are notable reds and well- IN AUSTRALIA. known whites include Soave and Trentino chardonnay. In the moring TOUR DETAILS we visit the beautiful Monte del Frà winery for a wonderful The price for the 15 night tour sparkling Italian wine tour. is $10,250.00 per person twin share. Single supplement isLa Montina. DAY 16 $1,500.00 per person. The land- Sunday 26 September only price for the tour (no flights) is RIVA DEL GARDA $8,700.00 per person twin share. After breakfast we will take a International and general travel ferry trip on Lake Garda and taxes and fuel surcharges are then enjoy our final Winestate additional; at 25 November 2009 Magazine Celebration Lunch they were approximately $546.00 at the aristocratic Il Dominio per person for economy class. di Bagnoli Cellars dating back Please call for business class fares to the 14th century, the most and for fares on other airlines. prestigious winery of Padua. To finish the tour Venetian players INCLUDED INTHE TOUR PRICE: great food and wine • Return economy class air travel from east coast AustralianFull continental breakfast daily and four special Winestate Magazine Celebration lunches/dinners capitals to Rome and returnare included in the tour package plus a number of superb winery hosted lunches. These lunches/ from Milan. Long-haul travel willdinners will be occasions at which we celebrate the food and wine of each region. be on Singapore Airlines. Please call for other departure cities. Passengers will be able to extend their stay in Europe and stop over in Singapore at no extra airfare cost. • Accommodation in three and four star hotels with private facilities. Hotel taxes and service charges. • Full continental breakfast daily and four special Winestate Magazine Celebration lunches or dinners.26 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2010

CIAO ITALIA! very special experiencesFollowing the great success of previous wine toursto France, Italy and Spain, Peter Simic and the staff atWinestate Magazine have arranged for a series of veryspecial visits in the historic and impressive fine wineareas of Italy. We will visit vineyards that are rarely opento the public and sample special vintages and meetpeople responsible for their skillful production. It will be aunique opportunity to meet the characters and expand ourknowledge in most enjoyable and pleasant surroundings.• Entrance, tasting fees and GENERAL INFORMATION AND CHANGES. International reserves the rightspecial services at vineyards BOOKING CONDITIONS After confirmation of travel to cancel the tour if insufficientin each of the regions visited. TOUR OPERATOR. arrangements, one change passengers have booked by 60Sightseeing and general entrance Travelrite International Pty Ltd to travel arrangements will days before departure, giving afees as detailed in the itinerary. (ABN 64 005 817 078) is the tour be provided free of charge. full refund of all monies paid,• Tour leadership by Peter Simic, operator working with Winestate Subsequent changes will incur a or offering arrangements toeditor/publisher of Winestate Publishing Pty Ltd. fee of $25 for each change. proceed with the tour at aMagazine. TOUR PRICES. CANCELLATIONS. modified price.• Tour management byTravelrite Prices are based on airfare, general Cancellation advised more REFUNDS.International Pty Ltd, with an transport, accommodation and than 60 days from the date The tour is based onexperienced staff member other costs at foreign exchange of departure from Australia arrangements that do not allowtravelling with the group. rates at 25 November 2009. will incur a cancellation fee of for any refunds in respect of• A Travelrite International Travelrite International reserves $300 per person. Cancellations sightseeing, accommodation,travel bag. the right to alter the tour price advised 60 days or less meals, airfare or other services or modify the tour if any of from the date of departure not utilised after the tourNOT INCLUDED IN THE these factors change, giving from Australia will result in has commenced.TOUR PRICE: any passenger who has booked the loss of all monies paid. TRAVEL DOCUMENTS.• Passport and visa fees. the right to withdraw with a Travel insurance is strongly All passengers will need to be in• International airport and full refund of monies paid. No recommended to cover the possession of a valid passport.general travel taxes. alteration to the tour price will cost of cancellation fees that Passengers holding other than• Travel insurance. be made within 60 days of could result from a death in an Australian passport should• Sightseeing and general departure from Australia. the family, illness, etc. check requirements withexpenses not specified in the DEPOSITS AND PAYMENTS. MINIMUMTOUR NUMBERS. Travelrite International.itinerary. A deposit of $500 per person is The tour has been priced on the BAGGAGE.• Items of a personal nature. required at the time of booking. basis of a minimum number of Economy class passengers• Additional travel arrangements - Full payment will be required 60 passengers having booked 60 qualify for a 23kg airlinethese will be quoted for separately. days before departure. days before departure. Travelrite baggage allowance. March/April 2010 W I N E S TAT E 27

Tour of Italy 2010CIAO ITALIA!CHANGES TO THE for passengers with carriers,TOUR ITINERARY. hoteliers, Travelrite InternationalTravelrite International reserves acts only as agent for passengersthe right to make changes to the in making arrangements withitinerary to fit in with operational carriers, hoteliers and othersrequirements. Any change to the for the tour. As a result, weitinerary will be replaced with cannot accept liability for anysimilar arrangements with an act or omission whatsoever,equal or greater value. whether negligent or otherwise,RESPONSIBILITY. of those carriers, hoteliers orTravelrite International Pt y other persons providing servicesLtd (ABN 64 005 817 078), in connection with the tourLicence No 30858) is the tour over whom we have no directorganiser. Nationwide News or exclusive control. We doPty Limited and The Australian not accept responsibility forhas no involvement in the tour, any injury, damage, loss, delay,and has no liability of any kind to change of schedule, or anyany person to the tour. Travelrite other events that are beyondInternational Pty Ltd acts only as our direct control, such as, butagent in making arrangements not limited to, war, terrorism, comfortable tour hotels flood, fire, civil disturbance, acts Further information and booking of God, acts of government, or forms can be obtained byWe have carefully selected well-located three and four any other authorities, accidents telephoningTravelrite Internationalstar hotels (top class or very comfortable Michelin ratings) to or failure of machinery or Pty Ltd on (03) 9836 2522 orthat provide good value for money. All hotels have clean, equipment, or industrial actions. 1800 630 343 (toll-free).comfortable rooms with private facilities. Some will provide The passage contract in usean enjoyable experience of hotels “European style”, rather than by the carriers concerned, Travelrite International Pty Ltdthe uniformity of standardised modern hotels. when issued, shall constitute ABN 64 005 817 078. the sole contract between the Licence No 30858 transportation companies or November 2009 firms and the purchasers of these Email: [email protected] tours. Baggage is at owners’ risk throughout the tour. The ABOUT TRAVELRITE contract between passenger and INTERNATIONAL Travelrite International shall be Travelrite International Pty Ltd is a construed in accordance with the well-established travel company laws of the State of Victoria. that has been operating in the eastern suburbs of Melbourne HOWTO BOOK for 30 years. It is fully licensed Bookings can be made by sending and has two fully accredited IATA full names and addresses of offices: Heathmont and Balwyn. intending tour members with a It directly represents the major deposit of $500 per person to: airlines of the world and all major domestic and international tour Travelrite International Pty Ltd and transport operators.Travelrite 298 Whitehorse Rd, International is a member of the Balwyn 3103 Victoria Australian Federation of Travel Agents (AFTA).28 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2010

VINEYARDS Est 1935 BAROSSA VALLEY Estate Label The Estate Label style selects fruit from our new and old vineyards to capture the generous Barossa varietal flavours Ready to enjoy on release. Reserve Label Distinct, often old vine and single vineyard fruit, Hand made, Basket pressed, selected French oak barrels and rewarding with time in the cellar.New Trade & Export Enquiries 100% Barossa Contact James Ph: 0407 390 788 Family owned and operated Quality Assured vineyardsNSW contact Roger Ph:0411 431 908 VIC contact Alepate Taylor First planted 1935 Ph: 03 9487 2599 5 Star Winery (Halliday 08)www.rosenvale.com.au

RIDING OVERROUGH SPOTSMarlborough stays positive despite a few setbacksMICHAEL COOPER The explosive growth of the Marlborough With its estimated 16,787ha of bearing wine industry since Montana planted its first vines in 2010, Marlborough boasts 52 perA S S O O N as Elizabeth II put down vines in 1973 was recently summed up by cent of New Zealand’s total vineyard area. the Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry as the Sauvignon blanc dominates, with 74.8 perher wine glass, a ‘waiter’ swooped. Silver “most sustained and significant horticultural cent of plantings, followed by pinot noirtray in hand, a white napkin over his arm, land development in New Zealand’s history”. (11.6%), chardonnay (6.3%), pinot grisJohn Stichbury, owner of Jackson Estate, The 136 wine producers in the region (2.8%) and riesling (2.3%).returned to his seat bearing a unique generate 20 per cent of Marlborough’s totalsouvenir of the day in 1990 when the economic activity, worth $NZ1.3 billion, and Vineyard expansion has now stalled,Queen lunched at Montana’s Brancott create 4000 full-time jobs. due to the oversupply of wine, but sovineyard in Marlborough. frantic was the pace in Marlborough in That’s not to say that wine lovers around 2008 that the new area planted in a single The plain little glass now resides in the the world now talk of Marlborough in the year was greater than the entire GisborneMarlborough Museum, part of its new same breath as Bordeaux or Champagne. wine region, according to figures from thepermanent collection, the Wine Exhibition. A recent survey of 3000 regular wine Marlborough District Council. NowhereMarlborough is no longer a new kid on the drinkers in the US and UK found that, in was the rate of expansion faster than in thewine block. The first Marlborough wines connection with the word ‘Marlborough’, Awatere Valley, where the vineyard areaflowed over 130 years ago; the modern era they are more likely to think of cigarettes is now believed to exceed Hawke’s Bay’s.of sauvignon blanc now spans 31 vintages. than wine. Warren Adamson, then the If the two key valleys were classified asA highlight of the highly interactive Wine London-based Europe director of New distinctly separate regions, rather than sub-Exhibition is New Zealand’s largest wine Zealand Winegrowers, was not surprised: regions of Marlborough, the Awatere Valleybottle - a towering three metres - which “Generally, people are still looking for New would now rank as the country’s second-gives visitors the chance to hear such key Zealand sauvignon blanc - and nine out of largest winegrowing region, behind onlypioneers as Jane Hunter, Daniel Le Brun 10 bottles come from Marlborough.” the Wairau Valley.and Kevin Judd tell their stories.30 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2010

Left: When you stand in the centre of the 1000-hectare Yealands Estate vineyard, vines run to the horizon in every direction. Below: Peter Yealands.To tip the supply/demand balance back in their increased vineyard management costs. Tofavour, many growers have admitted hoping for tip the supply/demand balance back in theirfrosts - but not in their vineyards. favour, many growers have admitted hoping for frosts - but not in their vineyards The viticultural revolution in the Awatere The Lissamans’ investment in wine hasValley is typified by recent changes to a been heavy, with their vineyard’s set-up Some Marlborough growers, faced withfarm owned by Guy and Jane Lissaman. cost of $NZ40,000 per hectare totalling no demand for their grapes, are ‘puttingA decade ago, their 183ha property was over $2.5 million. A storage dam built in their vines to sleep’ by removing all fruitingdevoted to sheep and wheat. Today, 2004 has more than doubled the farm’s area wood. Due to the lack of alternative landlucerne seed and arable crops are under irrigation: “Irrigation is the pathway to uses, few vineyards have been uprooted,cultivated, alongside 64ha of grapevines. potential,” says Guy. Over the past 15 years, but many are for sale, at prices at least 30Facing declining returns from sheep and diversification has boosted the couple’s per cent below the peak of 2007.cropping, the Lissamans planted 20ha of gross farm income eight-fold.sauvignon blanc and chardonnay in 2001, Sales of bare land have also dried up,followed by a 4ha block of pinot noir, then But with the recent glut of Marlborough reflecting the shortage of land in areastwo more 20ha blocks in 2005 and 2007. wine - dubbed in some quarters as a proven ideal for viticulture. In outlying areas,When the local meatworks closed down, ‘savalanche’ of ‘sauvignon plonk’ - most vineyard development will be limited bythe foreman, Lyell Marfell, retrained as the grapegrowers are feeling the pinch, “whether the site can produce good yields,Lissamans’ vineyard manager. reflecting falling grape prices, the year-in, year-out,” says Tim Crawford, of enforcement of lower cropping levels and Bayleys Real Estate. “That will come down to temperature during the spring. Cool temperatures during flowering are probably going to be more of a limitation on viable grape land than either frost or water.” Yet recent approval for a major irrigation scheme, to draw water from the Ure River at Flaxbourne, 50km south of Blenheim, is expected to stimulate a flurry of vine planting in the district. And last year an $11.5 million wine warehouse, big enough to fit the local Lansdowne rugby field and its stands inside, opened on the outskirts of Blenheim. Owned by Wineworks, a contract bottler, it has storage space for 20,000 pallets of wine. Marlborough wine is still huge business. MARLBOROUGH TASTING STARTS PAGE 120. March/April 2010 W I N E S TAT E 31



HEhDeOavNeISnTAN EXQUISITE WINE AND FOOD MATCH - BUT IT’S WITH CHOCOLATEJOY WALTERFANGW H O O P E E ! I had been invited to a “When I was in South Africa, about three - that wasn’t easy - and then we ran fortnightly years ago, I was taken to a gourmet tastings for several months with ten of ourchocolate and wine tasting up at Hahndorf chocolate and fine wine tasting at a winery,” staff members, musing over which chocolateHill’s winery in the Adelaide Hills; I envisaged recalls Larry. “I was very impressed with worked best with which wine.”plates laden with chocolate truffles and what they were doing and apparently it wasglasses of sickly sweet golden wines. proving to be a great tourism drawcard. Once they had all agreed they hadI could not have been more wrong. I was told there were similar tastings selected the best combinations they ran being held at wineries in France, Italy and their first of their Choco Vino tastings, The chocolate at this tasting was not your California’s Napa Valley.” which are held in a classy glass-enclosedcommon or garden supermarket candy area aptly named the View Tube andbars but came from some of the world’s It wasn’t until June last year that Larry suspended out into surround views ofmost exclusive chocolate houses and and Marc decided to add their name to vineyards and rolling hills. And with thewas matched with Hahndorf Hill’s award- the growing list of wineries holding these perfection wine connoisseurs have comewinning premium wines. Hard to imagine, decadent feasts. But they wanted to take it to expect from this winery, the Choco Vinoa chardonnay or a shiraz served with that one step further. “Having sourced over tastings are conducted with great aplombchocolate but, believe me, with the right 40 of the world’s most luxurious chocolates and much ceremony.wines and the right chocolate, it can be a from the top chocolate houses usingheavenly experience. cacao beans sourced from plantations First, a small wooden box arrives at from the Caribbean across to Africa and your table, with some most intriguing Hahndorf Hill has won the award for Best Madagascar and over to Indonesia and contents. Along with the box comes aTourism Winery in the Adelaide Hills so Papua New Guinea, I think we can safely palate cleanser: a bottle containing themany times since it opened shop just over say, at the moment, we have the most purest water on Earth - rainwater fromsix years ago that it has been promoted comprehensive gourmet chocolate and fine Cape Grim in the remote north-west ofto the Hall of Fame so can no longer wine tasting in the world,” says Larry. Tasmania. It is so clean it cannot be usedcompete! In 2009, it was named one of for the production of beer as its puritythe top 10 cellar doors in Australia by Wine It took six months of intensive research inhibits the fermentation process. It is theBusiness Magazine. before he and Marc were ready to launch only bottled water in the world pure enough their Choco Vino experience. “First we had to be approved by the health departments Not being ones to let grass grow under to learn all about gourmet chocolate,” says of the US, the EU, Australia and Japan.their feet, HHW proprietors Larry Jacobs Marc. “Then we had to source the chocolate Put ice in it and you will pollute it.and Marc Dobson are consistently on thelookout for new ideas and new experiences. March/April 2010 W I N E S TAT E 33

DARK ORGANICCHOCOLATE WITHHEMP, PUMPKINAND SUNFLOWERSEEDS ANDBALINESE SEA SALT.

Okay, so you’ve examined the contents ChocoVino co-ordinator Grant Coatesof the box and had a sip of the purest aqua says the latest trend emerging fromin the world. Then comes a fascinating the world’s top chocolate houses is thetale about chocolate delivered by your phenomenon of single-origin chocolate.very knowledgeable ‘chocolate flight “Basically, single-origin chocolate meansattendant’’. I was doing some serious that the chocolate made from beanssalivating before I got to select my grown in one particular area reflects the‘experience’ from the extensive Choco flavours of that area,” he says. “Much theVino menu. I’d say you probably need to same as wine.”stay for a week to go through the wholemenu, and why not? After all, a little too As there are different grape varieties, somuch chocolate is just about right! there are different families of cocoa trees producing the pods containing the cocoa Here are some of the tasting sensations beans. There are three main varieties:I had that day … Criollo, Forastero and Trinitario. Between 80 and 90 per cent of all the world’s chocolate I chose a glass of what has been described is made from the Forastero bean, while theas “amongst the best-ever Hills sauvignon rare Criollo, the esteemed prince of all,blancs” with a dark organic chocolate represents a mere one to five per cent ofinfused with peppermint essence and a chocolate production.hint of rosemary, and one that had delicateflavours of lavender essence and wild When chocolate first made it to Spain,blueberries. I had a 2005 shiraz served with thanks to Hernando Cortez, it was considereda dark, earthy 73 per cent cacao organic a health food and a medicine. The wheel haschocolate from the fair-trade plantation in gone full circle. New research publishedthe Dominican Republic, and a 68 per cent in the medical journal The Lancet showsdark organic chocolate with hemp, pumpkin that eating chocolate could prevent cancerand sunflower seeds and Balinese sea and heart disease and, contrary to popularsalt - I was feeling adventurous! I think my belief, also fights tooth decay.favourite was a pinot grigio and dark Belgianchocolate infused with shards of Earl Grey Research by scientists from Thetea, although I really did like the Amedei Netherlands’ National Institute of PublicChuao (70 per cent cacao) from Italy - Health and Environment shows darkcrowned the world’s best chocolate - which chocolate contains four times as muchI gently nibbled while sipping a chardonnay. antioxidants as tea. And chocolate, like redNow there was a wow moment! wine - which is said to protect against heart disease - also contains phenols. These It’s interesting that I used the word nibbling reduce the presence of free radicals thatin the same sentence as the word chocolate. damage cells and DNA.My consumption of the food of the godswould normally be described as gorging. What can I say? Go on a health kickBut then, after all, this is the Grange and Hill - eat chocolate and drink wine. Wine andof Grace of chocolate - so you nibble. chocolate may not make the world go ’round, but it sure does make the trip worthwhile!Top: It starts with a box! Centre: Grant Coates, Hahndorf Hill Winery. Bottom: Grant and eager tasters from the USA.Opposite: Red wine and dark chocolate © Ina Peters. March/April 2010 W I N E S TAT E 35

Italy’sChampagneanswer toFruitier, softer and distinctively different- that’s FranciacortaGIORGIO FRAGIACOMOA M E R E hour of autostrada away lakes Como, Garda or Maggiore, with breathtaking cliffs, colourful fishing villagesfrom the bustle of Milan, heading eastward and the largest lake island in Europetowards Venice, between the Renaissance emerging 650m from the waters.hill town of Bergamo and the architecturaltreasure trove of Brescia’s historic centre, Even if wine has always been produceda lonely hill suddenly rises 450 metres here, the modern Franciacorta sparklingfrom the flats of the Po valley. The wooded wine district is a creation dating to theslopes of Monte Orfano, or “Orphan Hill” mid-1950s. The story is well known: aas it is appropriately called, is the southern young winemaker working for Count Guidoextremity of Franciacorta, a district that in Italy Berlucchi proposed that the house make ais synonymous with fine sparkling wine. sparkling wine in the French fashion, using traditional bottle fermentation. The result was The view from the freeway gives little such a success that it became fashionableaway, but it is thoroughly worth exploring for well-to-do industrialists to have theirthis area that extends from Monte Orfano own branded source of sparkling wine “aabout 15km to Lake Iseo and all the way la Francese” - the truth being that a certainto the outskirts of Brescia, some 35km rivalry with France is very heartfelt here.away. The attractions are many. Headingnorth towards Iseo, the land becomes The desire to produce a wine that couldgently hilly, vineyards alternate with rival champagne or at least offer localdeciduous woodland and the slopes rise businessmen (and this part of Italy is into dramatic white limestone cliffs. The the economic powerhouse of the country)area is constellated with vestiges of the an alternative drink to toast the successfulMiddle Ages: fortified manor houses, conclusion of deals, was deemed anusually dominated by a tower; cloistered issue of national importance. This leads tomonasteries with arched loggias; a majestic the question of the name “Franciacorta”.castle or palatial country villa here and This could be literally translated to “shortthere; and beautifully intact medieval France”, yet has nothing to do with Italy’shamlets, which seem to ignore the third Gallic neighbour, but with the “tax free”millennium. Then of course there is Lake (franca) market places (curte) of powerfulIseo, smaller but no less dramatic than local monasteries.36 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2010

There is a strongconnection betweenart and wine herethat runs throughthe major housesand some of thesmaller ones as well. What has been so admirable aboutFranciacorta is the way the now 90 or somembers of the “Consorzio”, the wine’sgoverning body, have adhered to a regimeof self-regulation that is exemplary. Nowonly sparkling wines using the traditionalmethod can call their product Franciacorta.The very good Bordeaux-style red winesand Burgundy-style white wines that thedistrict also produces are only allowed tobe called Curtefranca (the ancient nameof Franciacorta). Permitted grape varieties,vine training methods, vine density andespecially yields - and in the cellar, time onlees - are carefully governed so as to beas rigid as possible and, if possible, moreso than in Champagne. All this has beenembodied in legislation that governs theFranciacorta D.O.C.G. (Denonominazionedi Origine Controllata e Garantita), thehighest level of Italy’s appellation system.Left: Houses beside Lake Iseo, Italy. © Gary Martin.March/April 2010 W I N E S TAT E 37

Below: The abbey at Olivetani.Far right: The small village of Castro on Lake Iseo. ©Sebastian Skowronek. But all this comparison with Champagne that Franciacorta lacks complexity, depth The winery proper has been constructedis really beside the point. Champagne has or finesse - it has all that in abundance. It entirely underground and has a fascinatingserved more as an ideal to be reached also has an immediate appeal and pairs series of galleries where some remuagethan as a model. In reality, the wines are perfectly with Italian food. is still carried out traditionally on pupitres.as different as the spectacular lakeside The winery has 72ha of land spread outcountry differs from the Valley of the Marne Berlucchi, Ca del Bosca and Bellavista across the district, taking advantageand the Montagne de Reims - that is to say, may be considered the big three houses of a variety of terroirs. Grapes are“heaps”! The lake’s warming influences; the of the district. All have guided tours crushed using a traditional “Marmonier”big and varied stones of the vast moraine through their spectacular wineries and press once widely used in Champagne.deposits from the ancient glaciers that art galleries. There is a strong connection Michele Bozza claims it is superior to thecut the dramatic sides of the valley where between art and wine here that runs standard bladder presses in being ablethe lake sits; the fact we are in Italy at 45˚ through the major houses and some of thenorth in a near-Mediterranean climate and smaller ones as well.not nearly 50˚ north at the limits of thetemperate zone. One such winery definitely well worth visiting is La Montina. With the Franciacorta All this amounts to a sparkling wine area producing some 9.5 million bottles,that even though made predominantly of La Montina’s half-million bottle productionchardonnay, pinot noir and pinot blanc puts it in the “small enough to be intimate(preferred here to pinot meunier), is a and large enough to be very interesting”far fruitier (in an elegant way) and softer category. Located in the bucolic Monticelliwine. Franciacorta at its best is memorable Brusati, 15 minutes from Iseo, the mainfor its balance, for its style, for a rounder town on the lake, the winery is typical ofsparkling wine. Mind you, it has its “racy” Franciacorta; it was founded by the Bozzaacidity, but not bitingly so. It’s always family, who have been in the wine trade forimminently drinkable even when it has generations. They purchased the charminghad a decade “sur lies”. This is not to say 17th century villa which belonged to the Montini family, ancestors of Pope Paul VI.38 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2010

to soft-crush large volumes of grapes Franciacorta. The 2005 Vintage Brut has La Montina also boasts a great art gallerywithout over-extraction. recently obtained the prestigious 3 Bicchieri featuring well-quoted artists and will from The Gambero Rosso - Vini d’Italia guide. soon promote a collection of Australian Attention to technical detail as well as Apart from the rich N.V. Brut, definitely worth Aboriginal art. The winery also hosts anaesthetics here is everywhere. The cellars trying are the “Saten” - the local name for excellent restaurant, which is the perfectare a wonderful juxtaposition of the new and the Blanc de Blancs and made with fewer showcase not just for the family’s wines butthe old. The wines, apart from being great atmospheres of pressure (around five instead for the remarkable local produce rangingvalue for money, are perfect expressions of the usual six). It is incredibly smooth and from cheeses to hams and salamis from theof the Franciacorta style, with La Montina round. The Rose Demi Sec is an attractive neighbouring valleys.distinguishing themselves for their finesse, example with pinot noir fruit on the nose andelegance and toasty notes, coupled with biscuit on the palate. ITALIAN & SPANISH TASTING STARTS PAGE 96.the delicious creaminess that marks fine March/April 2010 W I N E S TAT E 39

of theMASTERSUWNINIVEERSEMW seminar draws a globalaudience to AdelaideDAVID LEMIREA F T E R M O R E than a decadeof being held in Sydney and Melbourne,the Australasian Educational Seminarfor Master of Wine students moved toAdelaide late last year. The seminar, atthe Waite Institute and under the directionof Auckland-based Jane Skilton MW, was,as always, a stimulating event, with fivedays of tastings, lectures, and practiceexaminations making it also a test ofendurance. In that respect, it is a goodrehearsal for the Master of Wine examsthemselves, which take place in June eachyear, and comprise three tasting papersand four theory papers over four days. In addition to the usual pleasuresof learning, tasting, and testing, theseminar provided a clear indication ofthe increasing internationalisation of theinstitute. Present were both the first personfrom outside the UK to become a Master ofWine, Michael Hill Smith MW, and the firstchairman of the institute from outside theUK, Dr Joseph (Pepi) Schuller MW. Perhaps most indicative of the changessince 1988, when Michael Hill Smith joinedthe institute, were the diverse origins ofthe 53 students. In addition to the ‘locals’from Australia and New Zealand, therewere students from Japan, Hong Kong,

Singapore, Malaysia, the UK, Austria, artichokes) and a textured palate. A 2008 Leeuwin Estate 2006, showed well,Spain, South Africa and the US. These rose made from the xinomavro grape by Kir- while the tautness and restraint of thestudents are aiming to join an institute that Yiannis in Macedonia was excellent: clean, Bindi Quartz 2006, and beautiful balancecurrently has 279 members in 22 countries, dry, and aromatic, with some raspberry and purity of fruit of the Oakridge 864reflecting its desire to promote the highest and sun-dried tomato notes. Of the reds, 2006, showcased the tighter, moreprofessional standards of “knowledge, an agiorgitiko (pronounced, to my ear, restrained styles that are being made byunderstanding and appreciation of wine” ‘eye-o-yitiko’) from the 2005 vintage, some young winemakers challenging theacross the whole global wine community. by Gaia in Nemea, was particularly status quo, particularly in Victoria. impressive, with sweet, bright, aromatic fruit, The program highlights included a terrific and floral and smoked meat characters. With the enormous commercial successpresentation from Konstantinos Lazarakis at low price points, the backlash againstMW on the wines of Greece, a country he Michael Hill Smith hosted an enlightening oaky styles, and now signs of a renewal indescribes as “a Jurassic Park of grape tasting of chardonnay, showing the interest, chardonnay has been through sovarieties”. With interesting and ancient evolution of Australian chardonnay much in Australia it is easy to forget that itvarieties and some diverse environments, winemaking. The contrasts between is a relatively recent phenomenon, virtuallyincluding of course Mediterranean climates, leading producers with regard to the use unknown in this country before the 1980s.we should start to see more Greek wines of whole bunch pressing, wild yeasts, With vine age and clonal diversityand Greek varieties in Australia. A white from malolactic fermentation and battonage, increasing, and a significantly morethe relatively cool climate of Macedonia, to name a few variables, are stark, and the sophisticated approach to viticulture andfrom the malagousia variety, made by tasting showed what a fascinating time it winemaking, chardonnay, especially at $25the Gerovassiliou winery, impressed with is for lovers of top-flight chardonnay. and above, is a far more dynamic area thanrestrained aromatics (vanilla, dried herbs, The richer styles, Giaconda 2006 and as recently as five years ago.M W RO L L C A L L - A few notable MWs in Australia and New Zealand:Andrew Caillard MW Kym Milne MW Michael Hill Smith Bob Campbell MW Steve Smith MW AM MWInstrumental in the rise of One of the original flying A prolific writer, judge, A viticulturist, Steve isLangton’s wine auction winemakers, in the A partner in Adelaide Hills educator, and speaker, now managing directorhouse, Andrew is also a early 1990s Kym was winery Shaw and Smith, Bob is group wine editor of one of the biggestwine writer, keen painter responsible for as much Michael was recognised of ACP Publications, entrants onto the Newand highly entertaining as one in every 20 bottles for his services to the and contributes to Zealand fine wine scenepublic speaker. of wine sold in the UK, wine industry as a judge, publications in seven in the past decade, in his role as director of educator, and mentor in countries. He became Craggy Range. He was winemaking operations June 2008, when he was an MW in 1990. chair of the Pinot Noir for International appointed a Member of 2007 event in Wellington, Wine Services. the Order of Australia and is chairman of (AM) in the Queen’s judges for the Air New Birthday Honours. Zealand Wine Awards. March/April 2010 W I N E S TAT E 41

Andrew Jefford presented a session quality issues challenged us all to consider cellared and bottled in the UK, there wasentitled ‘Arguing about Terroir’, a timely terroir from a variety of angles, and to look a strong emphasis on the practical skillsdiscussion in view of the increasing objectively at this complex concept. involved in cellar work, including dealingemphasis on terroir as both a marketing with the faults and remedies commontool and as a term which producers use to The recently announced strategic then. In Adelaide, Geoff Cowey of thedefine their work. A better understanding partnership between the Institute of AWRI updated MW students on the latestof what terroir means, and of the issues Masters of Wine and the Australian Wine research on smoke taint and eucalyptol,surrounding terroir, is a worthwhile aim, Research Institute raised eyebrows, with which as far as I know weren’t on theespecially in an age where technology is one scribe questioning whether a focus on agenda in the 1950s.advancing so quickly and climate change faults could be dangerous; the inferencepresents new challenges for winegrowers. being, if I’ve understood it correctly, that Maybe this link with the past, at the sameWhat can be done in growing grapes and it could lead students to being overly time as the Institute of Masters of Winemaking wine that will enhance and protect preoccupied with faults. In fact, in the early becomes international, is the message of theterroir character, and what actions will days of MW exams (they were first held in Adelaide seminar. It is exciting to see MWs“muffle” terroir? Andrew’s lateral thinking 1953) one paper was devoted entirely to and MW students from every corner of thearound the human, legal, commercial and identifying faults. With a great deal of wine world. Meanwhile, the test remains rigorous shipped in barrel to the UK at this time, and for all comers, as it was back in 1953.WIN A DOZEN WINES! IVWORLD’S GREATEST SHIRAZ CHALLENGE Win a dozen of Winestate’s World’s Greatest Shiraz Challenge IV wines by logging onto www.winestate.com.au42 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2010

Winestate, Australia’s longest running wine magazine,has gone digital with the help of one of the world’s mostpre-eminent digital reader companies, Zinio. GOES DIGITAL!So what does thismean for you? So why are we so excited about Winestate Digital offers ease of use. Winestate Digital? For those with sight impairment or Well, because it’s a fantastic complement who just want an easier read, that’s not to our print version. Winestate Digital so hard on the ol’ peepers, Winestate allows for greater interactivity, so whether Digital has a zoom function that makes you are perusing our Grapevine section it very comfortable. and spot a great restaurant that you would like to check out, or are searching A search function is also available for our contact details page and want to get when you just can’t remember where a direct link to that winery, it’s all available you saw that elusive wine or topic of at the click of a button. interest in your current issue.Log on to www.winestate.com.au Winestate subscribers who live overseas no longer have to wait to get their issue, they’ll receive it the same time that Winestate hits newsstands here! This makes giving Winestate Digital as a gift for friends and loved ones a great idea! subscribe now!

AsianTHE THIRSTY Giant Why it’s vital to view this region as a whole world of countries DENIS GASTIN In absolute consumption terms, China is the dominant regional player WHEN TRAVELLING in Asia and is set to become even more dominant in the years to come. in the early 1980s you pretty much had to forget wine once you got off the plane. You had to think beer or, if adventurous, the local ‘juice’ - like moutai in China, shochu or sake in Japan, soju in Korea or arak in Bali. If you had the budget, or well-heeled local hosts, you could do whiskey or cognac. But wine hadn’t ‘arrived’. Now it couldn’t be more different. There is a burgeoning and vibrant wine scene in virtually every Asian destination, spurred by a growing band of informed local drinkers - and not just the ones who have studied or worked overseas. In most big cities, and even regional locations in many countries, you’ll find a broad range of wine offerings in retail liquor outlets and in lots of bars, restaurants, and hotels - although wine is still formidably priced in the high-taxing countries like Thailand and Indonesia. Collectively, Asia now accounts for just over seven per cent of global wine consumption. This is not particularly huge, you might think, given the number of people44 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2010

Above: Vintage time in India. Opposite: Action in the vineyard, China.in the region. But it is already more than since 1980. And Japan is the region’s most now accounts for almost 80 per cent oftreble Australasia’s share. And it won’t stay sophisticated market, now being almost the wine consumed in Asia and, therefore,in single digits for long, given the robust totally palate-driven, whereas the more almost six per cent of global consumptiongrowth rates in the larger-consuming recently emerging markets are still largely in its own right. Importantly, this is becausecountries and declining consumption in driven by status or value. Reflecting this, of its rapidly growing capacity to quench itsmost of the world’s traditional wine markets. Japan is easily the largest wine importer own thirst with domestically produced wine,Consumption has more than doubled since in Asia and is of particular strategic which accounts for over 85 per cent of winethe mid-1990s and medium-term growth importance for many global producers: consumed. China is now ranked among theprojections remain high for practically every it has been the largest export market for top 10 wine producing countries globally;market in the region. Beaujolais, for example, and the third other countries in the region, by contrast, largest market for champagne. are heavily import-dependent. Japan was the first market to emerge inAsia, in the early 1980s, as the ‘bubble’ But, in absolute consumption terms, China Certainly, consumption patterns haveeconomy took off and a rapidly appreciating is the dominant regional player and is set to been impacted by the global financialexchange rate made imports more become even more dominant in the years to crisis - perhaps most dramatically in Southaccessible and opened up local minds come. While per capita consumption is well Korea, where imports (accounting for theto international consumption possibilities. below Japan’s, at just under one litre per bulk of domestic sales), after spectacularJapan now has, by a wide margin, the person per year, aggregate consumption growth of 69 per cent in 2007, are expectedhighest consumption rate in Asia, at 2.5 has been growing at an average annual rate to be down by as much as 40 per cent inlitres per person per year, having grown 30 of 15 per cent over the past decade, which 2009. In Japan, overall consumption hasper cent in the past decade and sevenfold means doubling every five years. China been relatively stable in volume terms, March/April 2010 W I N E S TAT E 45

but the prices customers have been willing and Spirits Competition, winning 32 per cent But the long-standing status of Europeto pay have been falling and so sales are of the medals and 37 per cent of the trophies. as the ‘global headquarters of wine’down overall in value terms. But in the But this doesn’t automatically sell wine. ensured that the first waves of demandregional behemoth, China, consumption went to European producers - initiallyhas still grown modestly. Demand for Australian wine in the region to France and progressively to Italy, is certainly fed by a number of positive Spain and Portugal. And we still have So where does Australia stand in all of this? factors - including the large number of a big job in front of us to continueWell, we are out there fighting. For example, Asian students studying in Australia, to wear that level of consciousnessAustralia had the most exhibitors last year at Asia now being our largest source of down. It means being out there andthe emerging regional benchmark wine event, tourists, investment by Asian companies in telling the Australian wine story in athe International Wine and Spirits Trade Fair Australia and the consequent coming and way that appeals specifically to Asianin Hong Kong, and was the most successful going of workforces, as well as the social consumers. It means communicating incountry at the concurrent International Wine connections that come through migration.46 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2010

Left: Wine has certainly arrived in China - Shanghai Hypermarket. Top & bottom right: Indage Vintners vine nursery in India.the native languages of these markets China has moved up two places in the past a resource for our long-term ambitions.as well as directly into local consumer couple of years to now be our fourth-ranked Already the emerging wine industry inconsciousness - on a country by country export market, by both volume and value Asia has become a market for Australia’sbasis, rather than collectively as ‘Asia’. when, just five years ago, it was not in our education services, viticultural and top 10. Japan is ranked seventh, Hong winemaking expertise and the suppliers We are certainly making progress. Kong 10th and Singapore 11th. of equipment and technology. MoreAsia now accounts for around 10 per importantly, we should work on thecent of our total exports and is providing Comparatively our position has also premise that most Asian consumers willmost of the growth for us in a generally improved. France is still the dominant have their first experience with a localdepressed global market: in the 12 months supplier in all Asian markets. But Australia wine, and so the more that is available andto September 2009, exports in value terms has very recently jumped to no. 2 supplier the higher quality it represents, the morewere up 43 per cent in China, 20 per cent to China; and in the smaller (but very likely it will be to increase wine’s share ofin Hong Kong and eight per cent in Japan. strategic) markets of Singapore and total alcohol consumption. This will create Hong Kong we are ranked second and downstream market opportunities for fourth respectively. We are, however, still Australia as local consumers graduate to well behind in the other major regional imports when their palates and incomes markets: in Japan we rank sixth and in are ready for that. Korea, fifth. In both cases we account for just seven per cent market share, partly because of a palate matching issue and partly because of a ‘message’ issue. The Australian industry mindset will need to shift on both counts to extract from these markets what they are capable of delivering to a struggling industry. It’s not just other global producers that we are standing up to in this market. There is, in fact, a very substantial local industry. The tally of Asia’s wineries has just passed 800 (by my count) in 12 countries. Well over half of them are in China, in 26 provinces - virtually all of them established since the late 1970s and over 100 of them less than 10 years old. Almost a quarter are in Japan, concentrated principally in Yamanashi and Nagano prefectures. Numbers are expanding rapidly in India - now with 60 wineries. Other Asian countries in which there is an emerging winemaking industry are Thailand, Korea, Vietnam and Indonesia. Fledgling operations can be found in Taiwan, Sri Lanka, Bhutan, Myanmar (Burma) and, most recently, Cambodia. One way to look at this would be to see local producers as a threat, though a more constructive view is to see this as March/April 2010 W I N E S TAT E 47

I wanted to get inside the head R O B E R T P A R K E R had neverof this man who wields somuch power on the wine stage, before visited Rioja and this masterclassbut there was no opportunity was a first in a number of ways. In thefor interaction and he would largest tasting of its kind ever organisednot be drawn out. in Europe, 10,700 Riedel glasses were needed for the 600 bottles of wine to be48 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2010 poured as samples of 20 for each taster, 540 places in total. Nothing could be poured in advance as there was such a limited quantity of wine and herding the vast number of participants and getting them to sit down and not knock over the glasses would be like pushing water uphill. A tasting mat listed each of the wines in the pouring order but unfortunately the accompanying booklet with Parker’s tasting notes on each wine had been printed in the wrong order to the tasting, which caused some frustration. We started a little late, due to getting everybody seated, and perhaps

PARKER, RIOJAAND GRENACHEThe inside story on a Spanish masterclass with a legendCHESTER OSBORN, Chief winemaker, d’Arenberg, McLaren Valethe pouring was a little slow, but overall the the 30 bottles of each wine quite far! A Marques de Riscal, nearly all the winesmasterclass pourers did a superb job. guesstimate average of the cost in the prep boasted alcohol levels over 14 per cent; room of the wines sitting there was well three were 16 per cent, which prompted The ‘Emperor of Wine’ was treated very above €100,000.00, or $160,000. renowned British wine authority Jancismuch like royalty or a rock star, depending Robinson to comment, “I’m sorry, buton your viewpoint. Whisked in and out of Parker had asked that none of the wines women’s bodies cannot cope with abovethe venue unseen until his visible stage time be decanted but this proved unviable. 15 per cent abv wines.”was due. Mere wine writers or other key I was one of the panel of pre-tastersspeakers had to arrive by the front door. who found one wine in which all the Kilikanoon ‘Duke’ and Torbreck ‘Les Amis’ bottles showed signs of refermentation: completed the Australian selection of old Parker’s theme was grenache, a love of Domaine la Barroche Pure 2007. A call vine grenache and both showed extremelyhis - he stated that Chateauneuf du Pape to a horrified winemaker resulted in a well, Kilikanoon with a lively lick of aciditywas his favourite style of wine. The wines frantic request to decant everything for and the Torbreck just gloriously seductive.were selected, not to be a Parker Power half an hour to allow the CO² to dissipate.taste-off, but to show the diversity of We neither had the time nor decanters for Pre-tasters worked in teams of two;grenache, as a stand-alone or in a blend. this. We did double-decant each bottle because of the nature of the limitation of and Parker said, “No, don’t pull it off. pouring samples, only obviously anisole- I was in charge of organising the Australian We’ll show everything selected.” He had tainted bottles were taken off. All thewines selected by Parker. The masterclass, wanted the wines not to be opened until wines were sealed under cork and, outheld last November, originally had a cap of 4pm “because of the danger of oxidation of 600 bottles, eight were rejected. Not a350 attendees but it was so oversubscribed with grenache”. bad batting average for the cork industrythat the final figures were 530 plus the maybe? Anything suspect was reassessedspeakers. Even so, that was stretching On my section, the Clarendon Hills was by another team, but it was only to call for so dense it was like chewing a brick. It bottles to be decanted. There was very little had to be decanted. This wine drew some room for error as we were so limited with horrified responses in the tasting at the the number of samples we had. enormous alcohol level of 18.5 per cent but, to be honest, if this alcohol by volume The format of the tasting was that (abv) level had not been stated at the Parker would talk about each wine and masterclass I don’t think it would have been his remarks were then translated into widely noticed. The wine is so massive it more digestible language by Gabriela carries the alcohol. The Greenock Creek Ranelli, whose interpretation of some quite wine was showing some travel shock and lengthy explanations was spot-on. But again needed decanting to coax it out of its this certainly did interrupt the flow of the sulk. In general terms, apart from the 1945 evening. There was no debate; Parker was questioned only by his buddy Kevin Szraly, March/April 2010 W I N E S TAT E 49

THE TASTING LISTand even though he tried to get Parker to and, generally, the colour and shape of FRANCEopen up a bit, in general it was a beginner’s the bottles; definitely not standard sizes, solecture on grenache, delivered to hundreds standard corks would not have fitted many Pierre Usseglio - Mon Aieul 2007of very high calibre wine professionals. of these old bottles. We pulled the corks Domaine de Marcoux Vielles Vignes 2007Rather disappointing. I wanted to get inside enough so the pourers could pull out the Domaine la Barroche Pure 2007the head of this man who wields so much final few centimetres as they were about Chapoutier Barbe Rac 2007power on the wine stage, but there was no to be poured. We tasters did try a bottle Mont Olivet - La Cuvee du Papet 2007opportunity for interaction and he would earlier and it was sublime, but enormous Domaine de la Vielle Julienne 2007not be drawn out. He did not really seem bottle variation was to be expected and Domaine Charvin 2007at ease, almost nervous in fact, and the was experienced in the tasting. The wineslightly disjointed nature of the event meant poured into my glass was like drinking CALIFORNIAthere was quite a buzz of commentary from liquid rust. The pourers had two bottles tothe participants. pour from so tasters on either side could Sine Qua Non Atlantis 2005 compare. This worked well. Alban Vineyards Pandora 2006 Parker remarked that “great wine is goodwhen it is young. Too much tannin in youth Parker also commented on non-filtration. S PA I Nis always going to be too much tannin”. This As he tastes many barrel samples,was in reference to his tasting out of barrel, the wines are often only a shadow of Espectale 2006 (DO Monstant)when some wines have not settled. He also themselves after filtration. If the wine is Clos Erasmus 2007stated that he is slowing down - he used to healthy, with no fermentable sugars and Bodegas Mancuso 2005taste about 10,000 wines a year but now no malo yeast remaining, then only a very Also Moncayo Aquilon 2006tastes 6000 to 7000. light filtration may be required. “Try not to Atteca Armas 2007 over-filter,” he said. With the 1945 Riscal, the winery had AUSTRALIAinsisted that this not be opened until just When asked about varieties of thebefore service. The bottles had all been future, worldwide, Parker nominated Greenock Creek Cornerstone 2006recorked some five to six years earlier. Mediterranean-style wines to match with Clarendon Hills Old Vines Romas 2006We removed the capsules to find huge food, as well as malbec. And he is a firm Torbreck Les Amis 2005variation in size and shape of the necks believer in cork for ageing wines. Kilikanoon Duke 2006 RIOJA Marques de Riscal Reserva 1945 Contador 200750 W I N E S TAT E March/April 2010