Winestate Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022

THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO WINE SINCE 1978 100% Independent Panel Reviews AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND WINE BUYING GUIDE ANNUAL Edition 2022 75-PageSPECIAL EDITION 2021 special feature The best wines, winemakers & wine companies of the year from Australia & New Zealand Annual 2022 Vol 45 Issue 1 $14 AUS (inc GST) NZ $15 SGD $19 US $17.99 GBP £11.95 EUR 9.95 China RMB120 HKD $150 CHF 20.00 ZAR 250 The pick of the crop from over 7,000 tasted includes: best of styles, new releases & regional reviews of 2021

ALPINE VALLEYS HUNTER VALLEY MARGARET RIVER SingleVineyard Small BatchWines Available online All wines available in our online store @ goldmanwines.com.au [email protected] @goldmanwines

NO.311 ANNUAL 2022 Editor & Publisher Peter Simic E: [email protected] Managing Editor Lara Simic E: [email protected] Uniquely Yorke NZ Editor Michael Cooper E: [email protected] Peninsula Administration Lyn Hannam E: [email protected] Cellar Door and Function Centre Open 7 days 10am-5pm Graphic Designer Naomi Fry E: [email protected] Maitland, South Australia Marketing & Sales Debra Silver E: [email protected] Phone (08) 8834 1258 Tasting Coordinator E: [email protected] barleystackswines.com Printing DAI Rubicon Winestate Web Site E: [email protected] WINESTATE New Zealand Administration Kay Morganty Phone: (02) 7618 2945 E: [email protected] CONTRIBUTORS New South Wales Winsor Dobbin, Elisabeth King, Clive Hartley South Australia Joy Walterfang, Nigel Hopkins, Dan Traucki Victoria Hilary McNevin Western Australia Mike Zekulich, Berlinda Conti Queensland Peter Scudamore-Smith MW, Andrew Corrigan MW, Lizzie Loel New Zealand Michael Cooper, Emma Jenkins MW National Travel Winsor Dobbin EUROPE André Pretorius, Giorgio Fragiacomo, Sally Easton MW ASIA Denis Gastin HONG KONG Lucy Jenkins ADVERTISING SALES Australia & International Winestate Publishing Phone: (08) 8357 9277 E-mail: [email protected] Mike O’Reilly, Public Relations - [email protected] Victoria John Ogden Lifestyle Media Vic Pty Ltd Phone: 03 9696 9960 Email: [email protected] New South Wales Pearman Media Phone: (02) 9929 3966 Queensland Jaye Coley Phone: (07) 3839 4100 E-mail: [email protected] New Zealand Debbie Bowman – McKay & Bowman Phone: +64 9 419 0561 Email: [email protected] France Espace Quadri - Philippe Marquézy - Phone: +33 607 78 04 66 Delphine Rouget-Marquézy - Phone: +33 787 49 36 27 Email: [email protected] - Web: www.espacequadri.com DISTRIBUTORS Australia Ovato Retail Distribution Pty Ltd International DAI Rubicon WINESTATE is published six times a year by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD, 81 King William Road, Unley SA 5061. Copyright 2022 by WINESTATE PUBLISHING PTY LTD. This publication may not, in whole or in part, be copied, photocopied, reproduced, translated or reduced to any electronic medium or machine-readable form without the express permission of the publisher. Every care is taken in compiling the contents of this publication, but the publisher assumes no responsibility for the effects arising therefrom. ABN 56 088 226 411 Winestate Telephone (08) 8357 9277 Facsimile (08) 8357 9212 E-mail [email protected] Web Site www.winestate.com.au Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022 W I N E S TAT E 3

contents ANNUAL 2022 R E G U L A R S 30 THE VERDICT'S IN And it's guilty! Guilty of being a great 8 Briefs 15 NZ Briefs winery as Karyn Foster finds out about 16 European Report with Sally Easton Barrister's Block. With grapes in both 18 Wine Tutor with Clive Hartley Wrattonbully and Woodside in the Adelaide 20 Wine Travel with Elisabeth King Hills they are spoilt for choice as evidenced 41 Grapevine by every vintage being sold-out. 194 Aftertaste 34 WILD AT HEART FEATURES AWARDS 2021 Nigel Hopkins speaks to hidden Coonawarra 22 DOING IT DIFFERENTLY IN THE gem Wild Game whose viticultural roots THE YEAR IN THE have resulted in some fantastic awards RIVERLAND coming their way and with expansion on REAR-VIEW MIRROR Over the past thirteen years Eric and Jenny the horizon, it seems the skies the limit. 160 SOUTH AUSTRALIA: Semmler have rolled up their sleeves and 38 PLAYING AMONGST THE ANGELS A VINTAGE FOR THE AGES shown that the Riverland can produce Our new writer, Björnstierne Antonson, Manna from Heaven was one winery owner's small volume, specialist table wines of outstanding quality that regularly steal wine director and head sommelier for the description of this year's vintage that will go the gold from the Nation’s wine shows Champagne Club, explores the magic and down in the record books as far as quality and proudly display, on their labels, that mystery of iconic Champagne producer is concerned. It seems the vintage was their wines are made in South Australia’s Maison Deutz and it's wonderfully affable the nation's gift for dealing with all of the Riverland, writes Joy Walterfang. owner Jean-Marc Lallier-Deutz. uncertainty of 2021. 26 THE ART OF WINE 45 WINE OF THE YEAR AWARDS 2021 169 VICTORIA: It takes a certain amount of courage to SPECIAL WOYA FEATURE TIME TO CELEBRATE ON THE CARDS The st ar wines, makers and industr y Victoria was hit by bushfires, Chinese tariffs 'hitch one's star' to focussing on emerging varietals, but this is just what successful personalities that made 2021 such a and lockdowns all throughout 2021 but made Adelaide Hills producer, Artwine has done. memorable one have been announced, and the most of this difficult year by a great vintage And, done in style! With a focus on the we record and celebrate their achievements and plans in place for a better 2022. vineyard and picking varietals to suit the in our special Winestate Annual Wine of the climate it seems they're on the right track Year Awards. 173 NEW SOUTH WALES: with the medals to back them up, reports BRIGHTER DAYS ADHEAD Charles Gent. 122 NO LIMIT TO IMAGINATION New South Wales definitely had more than Newy Distillery's adventurous gins are making Winestate Magazine its fair share of issues throughout the year Issue Number 92 their mark with crazy colours and fantastic dealing with the remnants of 2020 and all Annual 2022 flavour pairings making them the perfect of the ongoing Covid issues and lockdowns, addition to any cocktail creation, writes Rick however although yields were down this Cover Image & Wine of the Year Awards Feature Allen. vintage promises great things for the future. Bob Gloyn and 2suns 124 Ginuary & White Spirits Tasting 177 WESTERN AUSTRALIA: 131 New Release Tasting BETTER IN THE BUBBLE 135 Best of Best Value Buys 2021 under $20 WA seemed to escape 'relatively' unscathed PLUS-THE BEST from the Covid issues that plagued (pun- OF THE BEST intended) other states, using this time to We revisit the most outstanding wines - rated focus on evolving cellar door experiences and four stars and above - that we tasted in 2021. a fantastic vintage. 138 Best of Styles 183 NEW ZEALAND: 153 Best of New Releases SILVER LININGS ON COVID CLOUDS 159 Best of South Australia Labour shortages, lockdowns and grape 168 Best of Victoria 172 Best of New South Wales shortages all caused the expected problems 176 Best of Western Australia but the silver lining was a brilliant vintage 182 Best of New Zealand quality-wise. 189 Best of NZ Recent Releases 2021 4 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022

Our premium offering of alternate Variety RRP varietals, Alejandro wines are Prosecco $21.00 inspired by the sun-beaten soils Fiano $21.00 of Southern Spain. The varieties Vermentino $21.00 grown for Alejandro adapt Lagrein $21.00 exceptionally well to the climate of Montepulciano $21.00 the Murray Darling which mirrors Durif $21.00 that of their ancestral homes. Saperavi $21.00 Alejandro wines are the perfect Carmenere $21.00 companions for all things tapas. { inspired by the sun-beaten soils of southern spain | Trade and NSW Distributor contact: Distributor contact: russellandsuitorwines Kim O’Hara Bouchon Wines & Spirits russellandsuitor Periscope Management 16 Prospect Street, Fortitude Valley Qld 4006 Mob: +61 421 077 344 Tel: +61 07 3854 0407 [email protected] [email protected] Distributor contact: Distributor contact: Claret & Co | Scott Teasdale Unique Wine Solutions | Stephen Nankervis 13 View Street, Subiaco WA 6008 PO Box 106, Port Melbourne Vic 3207 Mob: +61 447 087 998 Mob: +61 414 388 046 [email protected] [email protected]

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editorial WOW, WHAT A YEAR THAT WAS! Ground hog day! The gift that kept on giving! These platitudes just keep on repeating themselves. I looked at last year’s editorial and it could almost be repeated word for word. But there’s more. This year we added frosts and floods along with the usual fire, smoke, China, of course Covid – now with additional strains to keep us more fearful, and the economy. All we needed was a biblical plague of locusts to round out the scene. Miraculously despite all this it seems that people kept drinking and spending, somehow keeping the economy simmering rather than falling over. Wineries discovered more direct to consumers activities as state borders were closed to cellar doors and interstate visitors. On premise outlets took the brunt of the pain with social distancing making it hard to make a buck. Those wineries heavily involved with China were smashed and much wine earmarked for there will be diverted back to Australia in an already saturated market. Our concern is for the grape growers this year. We already know some contracts have been broken and wine companies are going back to the spot market knowing they can buy at a lower price. Ironically 2021 was a “unicorn” year with a great vintage, both from quality and quantity factors – great for the consumer, but not necessarily the grower. They may be helped with a difficult cold, frost, hail and downpours in the vintage in Europe this year, but there is still the matter of excess wine here in tanks and barrels to get through the system. On a positive note, we say to consumers now is the time to work out which wines you like (with our help of course) and stock up big for the future. Expanding and paraphrasing our advice from last year we repeat former treasurer Peter Costello’s request, “buy a dozen wines for yourself, another for your partner and one for the country”. Note this has gone up from a glass or two! In this issue we are proud to present to you our best of the best Winestate Wine of the Year Awards issue. Although we were down on numbers (from around 10,000 to 7,000) we continued to soldier on, doing all our judging’s as usual whilst many wine shows were unable to continue. We were able to do this with our strong in-house operation and fortunately from a state that suffered less from lock downs. This meant not only could we bring in the required SA judging panels as usual, but by judiciously selecting judges who had been wine makers in other states we could continue to judge wines from New South Wales, Victoria and Western Australia, without having to go there. (At the time of writing this it appears that this situation will continue into 2022.) So, for your pleasure we present our Top Five category winners of the year across 17 categories, with a winning wine chosen from each category and then the Wine of the Year overall plus best wine chosen for New Zealand and best wine chosen for Australia. Also, in this issue we have a full listing of all wines achieving four stars or higher in our “Best Of” categories, making the magazine a great reference guide that you can use throughout the year. You will also notice a new name amongst our writers this issue and so we introduce and welcome, Björnstierne Antonson, Wine Director and Head Sommelier for the Champagne Club with his article on iconic Champagne house Maison Deutz. Our thanks go to all our judges throughout the year, the wineries who entered their wines, our most valuable trade partners and sponsors and our readers who tell us that we are the ones they trust. Many thanks. Congratulations to our two country winners and the overall winner of our Wine of the Year; for New Zealand the extraordinary Church Road Grand Reserve Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2019 (overall winner) and for Australia the impressive Paulmara APOTIGI Barossa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2018. All the best to you all for 2022. Stay strong and positive. If we work together, we can get over this. Cheers! Peter Simic Your wine, Editor/Publisher our ports. Major Sponsors and Supporters Australia Export Customer Service 1300 134 096 Equipment and Logistics 1300 135 801 Import Customer Service 1300 132 813 New Zealand Outbound - 0508 222 444 Inbound - 0508 333 666 No matter what. www.hamburgsud-line.com 7 Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022 W I N E S TAT E

briefs bars across the world, including This Must Be the Place, Eau de Vie and Bulletin Place in Sydney and The Diamond in Vancouver. “Hobart's food and drinks culture has long commanded global attention and attracts a discerning customer seeking a compelling experience, which offers us an impressive foundation to build upon,” Ainsbury says. “Mary Mary will be a celebration of and dedication to the abundance of exceptional ingredients, spirits and liquors of Tasmania and Australia, with an experience curated for the appreciator of a fine beverage.” FIVE STAR TASMAN LOCALE WINTER WINE LUNCH HOBART will have a new five-star hotel and a new drinking venue with the opening RATHMORE House, one of Tasmania’s finest country house hotels, runs a of the Tasman Hotel, part of Marriott's Luxury Collection. The Tasman will be the series of winter wine lunches in the Derwent Valley, just down the road from first Australian showcase of the Luxury Collection brand; a global collection of 110 Invercarron Wines. Wines from producers like Bream Creek, Roslyn 1823 hotels and resorts in over 30 countries. and Meadowbank are showcased alongside meals cooked by former Smolt chef Scott Heffernan from Flint Kitchen. “The Luxury Collection offers a gateway to the world's most exciting and desirable destinations, so it is wonderful to introduce the brand to Australia Guests enjoy bubbles and canapes to start and then, over lunch, and put the rest of the world on notice to the charms of Hobart and our most winemakers talk about their wines and answer questions. The lunches are southern state,” said Sean Hunt, area vice president for Australia, New Zealand held in either the Stables or the Barn. and Pacific at Marriott International. For guests who want to make a weekend of it, Rathmore offers packages “The opening of The Tasman will signify the importance of Tasmania as a including Saturday and Sunday night stays with a hearty soup supper being global destination for luxury travellers and we are confident visitors will see served up on the Sunday after lunch. this as a wish list experience for interstate and international travellers (once international travel resumes).” Accommodation options include lovely rooms in the old homestead, a private cottage or the shearer's quarters and it is worthy getting on the Connecting Salamanca Place with an elegant frontage on Murray Street, The mailing list. See https://rathmore.com.au/events/ Tasman forms part of Parliament Square, a new lifestyle quarter for Hobart just steps from the famous Salamanca Markets, St David's Park and the vibrant COAL RIVER’S ONE STOP SHOP waterfront of Sullivan's Cove. CHARLES Reuben Estate is a one-stop shop for visitors to the Coal River Guests will have a rare opportunity to experience three eras of design within Valley wine region outside Hobart. In addition to producing wines and the 152-room hotel. fruit brandies, the Tea Tree Estate also has a lavender farm and bed and breakfast accommodation in Tea Tree – just down the road from Richmond. Renowned Tasmanian chef Massimo Mele will act as culinary director at the hotel's signature restaurant, showcasing his passion for championing local producers. The lavender usually blooms in November and December, but you can visit the cellar door and distillery throughout the year. Just book ahead. Mary Mary - an intimate and sophisticated cocktail bar within the original sandstone building - will offer \"an old-world bar experience reimagined The Volkmann family purchased the business seven years ago, while for modern times\" with a cocktail menu celebrating indigenous Tasmanian the on-site 180-litre distillery was constructed in Germany and is unique. ingredients. It was installed in 2019. The vineyard was planted in the late 1980s while Pinot Cottage offers comfortable vineyard accommodation with a \"We look forward to bringing the unique Tasmanian character to life for mezzanine master bedroom and open-plan living areas. The cottage can our guests and hope to leave them with an expanded perspective that accommodate 4-5 guests and has wood fire, fully equipped European will last beyond their visit,” said general manager Stephen Morahan. “Our kitchen, double corner spa, double shower and a washing machine. blend of personalised, genuine and anticipatory service will mark the charming, yet refined experience of a stay at The Tasman.” See www.charlesreuben.com.au Mary Mary will be run by cocktail and spirits creatives Proof & Company, SAVE YOUR CASH TO SPEND ON WINE with awarded drinks slinger Charlie Ainsbury behind the bar. The name Mary Mary stems from the origin of the building in which it resides, the IF you want to visit Launceston and the Tamar Valley but prefer to spend former St Mary's hospital dating back to the late 1800s, now reimagined as your money on wine and food rather than accommodation then check part of The Tasman and Parliament Square, located in the heart of the city. out the bargain basement accommodation at the Pod Inn in Launceston. Ainsbury will bring over 17 years' experience in some of the top cocktail OK, you’ll be sharing bathrooms and a common space with backpackers and budget travellers but you will certainly save cash. The first capsule hotel in the world opened in 1979: the Capsule Inn Osaka, located in the Umeda district of Osaka in Japan. In Australia they are a relatively new phenomenon. My plastic Superior Side Entrance Capsule Bed was relatively spacious for one person but would be a little tight for two - although at $60 a night…. The capsule was well equipped with room to easily slide in and out through the card-controlled sliding door. You are provided with a comfortable mattress, comfy pillows and quilts. There is a dimmable ambient light, laptop desk, a safe to lock up your valuables, reading lights, air conditioning, USB charger port, power point, back-lit mirror, 8 W I N E S TAT E W ine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022

briefs smoke detector and coat hooks. A locker space and towel are provided good job over the years and are keen to adapt to a contemporary organic to each guest. program across the whole place, led by manager Russ Quilty and viticulturalist Marty Gransden,” Davidson said. Guests can control their own lights and ventilation to suit themselves - and you don't have to worry about disturbing other guests. There is also CHANDON GETS A TWIST an on-site noodle bar eatery. See www.podinn.com.au/ CHANDON, established in 1986, was one of the pioneers of high-quality A GREAT EASTERN WINE WEEK sparkling wine production in Australia. Based in the Yarra Valley but sourcing fruit from several cool-climate wine regions across the country, IT pays to book early for the best events and accommodation for Tasmania's Chandon is best known for serious wines. Great Eastern Wine Week, which had a program of over 50 events in 2021. This year marked the seventh event and a major expansion. The festival is Dedicated to creating méthode traditionnelle cool climate sparkling recognised as a significant contributor to the island state’s regional tourism wines, using the three traditional Champenoise grapes of pinot noir, economy and is supported by the Tasmanian Government through Events chardonnay, and pinot meunier, Chandon also has a sense of fun. Tasmania. Chandon's new Garden Spritz is a blend of sparkling wine and a unique \"From humble beginnings in 2015 when the Great Eastern Wine Weekend bitters recipe. was a concept developed by RACT Destinations and Freycinet Lodge, the Great Eastern Wine Week has evolved into a ‘must do’ wine and food Crafted by chief winemaker Dan Buckle using navel and blood oranges festival, positioning the East Coast of Tassie as one of Australia’s aspirational and macerated with dried orange peels, herbs, and spices, it offers a new wine and food destinations,” says Glenn Travers of Craigie Knowe winery. take on summer drinking for around $32 a bottle. Freycinet Lodge is the place to stay at the centre of all the action. See https:// eastcoasttasmania.com/great-eastern-wine-week/ NEW CEO FOR WINE AUSTRALIA BOOMING TIMES FOR TAMBURLAINE WINE AUSTRALIA conducted a global search for its new CEO - and found him just around the corner. TAMBURLAINE Organic Wines has completed the purchase of the Boomey vineyard in Central West New South Wales, previously part of the Cumulus Dr Martin Cole, who started on November 15, joins the wine industry umbrella operation. body from the University of Adelaide, where he is the Head of School of Agriculture, Food and Wine. The 645-hectare property, planted with 507 hectares of vineyards is situated just north-east of Molong and 30 minutes from the Orange CBD. Wine Australia Chair Dr Michele Allan said, “We are delighted to welcome Dr Cole as the new CEO, after what’s been a highly competitive recruitment The purchase joins the former Cabonne winery at Cudal, a 20-year-old, process, and know that he’ll be a great asset to the Australian grape and wine 12,000-tonne facility that will process the Boomey grape production alongside community and our levy payers. fruit from other vineyards in the region. The increasing demand for Orange region organic fruit led Tamburlaine to investigate the potential of purchasing Boomey. “Along with his wine sector experience, Dr Cole brings extensive experience across government, academia and industry - including the broader agricultural “As a result, the Cudal winery and Boomey vineyard have been reunited; sectors - and has held senior leadership positions at the CSIRO, overseas we are simply putting the band back together,” said Mark Davidson, and in larger commercial companies. Tamburlaine’s managing director. “His collaborative, multidisciplinary approach and extensive experience in “I believe that at the time of planting in the mid-1990s, the Boomey stakeholder engagement will be of great benefit to the sector, as we focus on vineyard was the largest single site planting in the southern hemisphere. growth opportunities for growers, producers and exporters post-COVID-19, Brexit and China’s deposit tariffs on bottled Australian wine imports.\" “Once it is fully certified organic, along with existing company vineyards we will hold approximately 700 hectares of certified vineyard in the region.” Cole replaces Andreas Clark, who spent 15 years with Wine Australia, including eight as CEO. Boomey has substantial plantings of cabernet sauvignon, shiraz, merlot, pinot gris, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay. Cole will step in to the role filled by interim CEO Steven Weinert, who has been in charge since Clark's departure in July. “We have retained the experienced vineyard team which has done such a “I am excited to be joining Wine Australia at this critical time,\" Cole said. COANIOLA WINES YAA VALLEY Corniola Wines is nestled in the heart of the famous Yarra Valley wine region in Victoria. Experience the smaller, family owned and operated winery and Cellar Door. We are pleased to offer you our current range of wines made from hand-picked Estate grown fruit and from selected vineyards, with the focus being to create affordable wines of premium high quality. 100 Wills Rd, Dixons Creek VIC 3775, Australia Phone: 03 5965 2393 Opening Hours: 10:30am – 5:00pm, Monday - Sunday www.corniolawines.com.au Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022 W I N E S TAT E 9

briefs “Grape and wine is such an important sector for Australia but faces many Australia’s major markets is at 5% or lower, with its largest share in Canada at 8%. challenges and opportunities. Without doubt, excellent collaboration and world Like Argentina, South Africa does not have a double-digit volume share in best practice innovation will be critical to driving future growth and profitability for our stakeholders.” any of Australia’s major destinations. South Africa's largest share is in New Zealand at 8%, where Australia holds sway with a 66% share. THE DOCTOR'S BACK See the report at www.wineaustralia.com/news/market-bulletin/issue-251 INNOVATIVE winemaker Peter Dredge - aka Dr Edge - is back with another of his terroir projects. BURTON BATTLING CHANGE Dredge, formerly of Petaluma and Bay of Fires, selects parcels of fruit from MATT Burton from Gundog Estate is leading vineyards in different regions of Tasmania (or Oregon) to explore one of Australia's most talented young differences, and similarities, with the various terroirs. His new releases are winemakers. Not only does he make four Tasmanian rieslings from the 2020 vintage. excellent wines using Hunter Valley and Canberra-region fruit under the Gundog He says this is the last of the North, East, South comparison projects for a Estate label, but he also collaborates while - not surprising as he is building his own winery at Cambridge, near with Seville Estate's Dylan McMahon Hobart Airport, and has recently been sidelined by a pair of back operations. for Yarra Valley wines under the Burton & McMahon brand. All the wines spent nine months on lees in old oak (a couple with whole fruit bunches) then nine months in bottle to reduce that frenetic Tasmanian acid Burton is also a winemaker of in young whites. generosity, collaborating with community partner Path 2 Change, an “They were super sharp from the cool 2020 vintage but are good to go for organisation aiming to break the cycle this summer,” Dredge says. of youth homelessness in the Newcastle region. All the wines are naturally fermented and are unfined. All are 11.5% alcohol by volume and retail for around $50. Or order direct at www.dr-edge.com/ Over 1000 bottles of the 2019 The Lived Experience Shiraz were produced by Burton, who is donating 100% ANALYSING THE STATE OF PLAY of profits to Path 2 Change. WITH Australia exporting around 60% of the wine it produces, it is in fierce \"With our usual fundraising and work experience activities disrupted by competition with Italy, France, Spain, the US, Argentina, Chile, and South Africa Covid-19, we needed to get creative,\" Burton says. for overseas sales. To assist Australian wine producers to better understand the competitor landscape, Wine Australia has prepared a new report called Global The wine has a hand-drawn label symbolising the journey of young people Wine Production Competitor Analysis. from struggles with broken homes and families to support, freedom, and hope for the future. It is a high-level overview of the main wine producing countries in the world and pulls together information from various data sources to summarise the profile of \"We are donating 100% of profits to Path 2 Change who will use these funds these countries as wine producers and exporters, and how they are positioned to support local disadvantaged and homeless youth,\" Burton says. relative to Australia in key export markets. “The past two years have been tough for us and most others in the region. Over the past decade, global wine production varied between 24.8 and 29.4 But through our work with Path 2 Change, we know that disadvantaged and billion litres. In 2021, wine production was estimated to be 25 billion litres. Australia’s homeless youth are doing it even tougher. share over the period hovered between 4% and 6% and ranks the country as either the fifth- or sixth-largest wine producer in the world. \"Their needs have escalated significantly, and Path 2 Change now has more clients on their books than ever before.” By far the biggest wine producers are Italy, France, and Spain. Combined, they account for between 46 to 52% of global production, depending on the Path 2 Change Chief Executive Officer Jennifer O’Sullivan said: \"Young year. Changes in production in each of these three countries has a considerable people are also experiencing increased mental health challenges and are at a influence on global supply. For example, wine production for each country higher risk of suicide due to isolation, in addition to already being disconnected increased by around 1.2 billion litres in 2018, which to put in context, is how much from family and social supports. Australia produces in an average year. \"Our young people are requiring more support than ever during this time.” The top three exporters by volume are Spain, Italy, and France, with a 54% share Gundog Estate formed a partnership with Path 2 Change back in September in the latest year. The US and Argentina are far less focused on exporting than the 2018, and since then the boutique wine producer has supported the charity's other major producers. The US exports on average exports about 15% (maybe work through fundraising at wine club events and at Gundog’s two cellar doors. because a lot of its wines are either awful or prohibitively expensive). The one-off wine is available for sale at $35 a bottle and in six packs for $210 online or from the Gundog Estate cellar doors. www.gundogestate.com.au Within Australia’s major export markets, Italy has its biggest volume share of imports in Germany, the US, Sweden, Denmark, and the United Kingdom. It has PATRITTI’S NEW TASTING ROOM & EVENTS SPACE lower market shares in the Asian markets. In contrast, France’s largest share of ARRIVES exports are to Asia: Singapore, Hong Kong, Taiwan, and Japan. IT is 95 years since young Giovanni Patritti boarded a ship in Genoa, Italy, Spain’s largest volume share among Australia’s key markets is in Germany, bound for an unknown future in Australia. followed by South Korea, Japan and Denmark. The US’s biggest share of imports is in neighbouring Canada. South Korea is the only other destination where it has Today, the wine brand that bears his name has just opened a new tasting a double-digit share. Asia is where Chile is most dominant, with its biggest shares room and events space in suburban Adelaide. in Japan, South Korea, Thailand, and Malaysia. Argentina’s share of imports in Rather than travelling to meet his sister in the US, the 25-year-old set out on a journey that took him to the other end of the world and a new life in 10 W I N E S TAT E W ine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022

briefs The Celeste collection features five limited-edition bespoke gift boxes. The custom-created artworks draw inspiration from traditional Asian design, featuring colours embellished with ornate gold and silver foil patterns. The five-wine range includes the Pommery Grand Cru Royal 2008 vintage. The 2008 was a great one in Champagne and Pommery Grand Cru Royal vintage is blended from seven grand crus and has excellent ageing potential. Maison Pommery is renowned for creating the ‘brut' style of champagne in 1874 under the reins of Madame Pommery. The cuvées available in the Céleste range are the Brut Royal NV, Brut Rosé NV, Brut Apanage NV, Apanage Blanc de Blancs NV, and Grand Cru Vintage. Adelaide. Seeing potential in the land around the Marion district to establish BEAUTIFUL BAROSSA ACCOMMODATION the kind of vineyard he knew from home, within a few years he and his best friend Cristano (Jimmy) Bissacca had built a winery and produced their first LOCATION can be the key to a good hotel experience and it is hard to vintage - the start of a family business that endures. find a better location than that enjoyed by the Barossa Weintal in the busy little township of Tanunda. A century on, the business remains in the hands of Giovanni’s four children and continues to operate as a fully functioning winery tucked away in the The Weintal is situated close to wineries, cafes and boutique shops - quiet streets of Dover Gardens, only 20 minutes south of the Adelaide CBD. many of which are just a short stroll away. Over the past 12 months, Patritti has been transforming one of Giovanni’s Just one-hour drive from Adelaide in a region famous for its wine, original wine cellars - Cellar II - into a bar and tasting room. Cellar II was once German-accented produce and tranquil landscapes, the Barossa Weintal a fermentation cellar and still functions as a working cellar, complete with nine is set back from the main road in lovely gardens. huge American oak vats maturing fortified wines. The Barossa Weintal offers four different room styles - including large, modern The adjacent outside area has been transformed into a spectacular “wine spa suites, free wifi, free car parking, an on-site restaurant, gaming room and guest garden” where visitors can enjoy a glass of wine with an authentic Italian-style laundry. There is also a swimming pool for summer enjoyment. antipasto platter. See www.patritti.com.au/experience. There are 40 rooms and comfortable luxury accommodation in 10 Coinciding with the opening of Cellar II is the release of five unique wines superior studios. made from fruit grown in the historic urban vineyards of Marion. The Angus & Co eatery is a modern steakhouse-style eatery offering These inventions of winemaker Ben Heide include the 2021 Warriparinga steaks, ribs, seafood, and burgers. Vineyard Palomino Pedro Ximenez blend, a 2021 April Red Grenache Palomino blend, and the Marion Vineyard Minimum 12-Year-Old Grenache Tawny B001. The Barossa Weintal offers pet-friendly accommodation - but it must be organised in advance. All the fruit for these wines is grown within 3km of the 1926-built winery. Online prices start from under $120 a night depending on the season - OAKRIDGE’S NEW WINE FOCUS excellent value in a tourist region. THERE were fears for the future direction of See https://www.barossaweintal.com.au/ Yarra Valley boutique producer Oakridge Estate when, at the start of the 2021, it was sold to Endeavour Drinks which was then part of Woolworths. Endeavour has since demerged from Woolworths. Winemaker David Bicknell describes it as \"a tumultuous year\" - but reports all is well aboard the good ship Oakridge. \"Importantly, the more things have changed, the more they have remained the same,\" Bicknell says. \"We have been granted the autonomy and given the backing to get on with making Oakridge what it should always have been - wine focused and appropriately resourced. \"Winemaking technique is unchanged, the team is intact and the will and spirit to make good wines are stronger than ever.\" For details see www.oakridgewines.com.au ASIA INSPIRES POMMERY CHAMPAGNE Pommery has officially unveiled its 2021 World Collection: Céleste. After choosing artwork that saluted Australia, South America, Japan, and Africa in previous years, Pommery has chosen Asia as its next destination. Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022 W I N E S TAT E 11

briefs MERCER’S COLOURS CATCH THE EYE EXPERIENCE HENNESSY WITH A VIEW ON a crowded bottle shop UP on the top floor of Adelaide's chic Mayfair Hotel is a swish cocktail bar that shelf, buyers will certainly is pretty much a secret to everyone except for the city's most tuned-in drinkers. not miss the colourful new releases from Hunter Valley Hennessy is the place to see great views of the city, and be seen by winemaker Aaron Mercer's movers, shakers and fun lovers. Mercer Wines range. The 13th floor rooftop bar on King William Street in the Adelaide CBD Recently selected for the has an al fresco terrace with its own lit-up wall garden, a chandeliered Wine Australia Future Leaders bar space and relaxed lounge area. program for 2022, Mercer is a leading advocate for organic It's a place to take in the views from up high, and to enjoy Champagnes and preservative-free wine (from Besserat to Louis Roederer Cristal) and house cocktails, as well as a quality and has just released a 2021 Pinot Grigio, a 2021 Nero d’Avola and a 2021 range of small bar eats. Tempranillo Joven to join his debut releases. All are priced at $30. Mercer, formerly with Tamburlaine Organic Wines, has gone beyond the Signature cocktails include a Cherry Mob, Pink Panther, and a Blue Lychee Martini Hunter for his latest releases, using fruit from the Hilltops region for the Pinot as well as all the classics, and there is also a range of mocktails. Grigio and Tempanillo and from Canowindra for the Nero d'Avola. Bellbird-born Mercer started his wine career with Scarborough Wines and Jacob Quigg is the well-travelled Hennessy bar manager and has been curating has done vintages in Gaillac in France, Mosel in Germany, Ontario in Canada, a number of gin and dark spirit offerings to enhance the beverage program. Many and California. guests arrive after dinner in the Mayflower Restaurant in the same hotel. \"When you drink a Mercer Wine, you’re drinking a story of place and time, you’re enjoying thoughtful yet no fuss winemaking and you’re contributing to The lovely terrace features luxurious underfloor heating and tiled bar around the a healthier viticultural landscape,\" Mercer says. edge of the terrace, providing an opportunity to admire the city skyline. \"We want our customers to be excited by what’s in the glass and grab for Mercer Wines to celebrate memorable life moments.” The bar is named not after the Cognac, but after the original architects of He says sustainability is part of his ethos. the building which houses the hotel - the 1930s CML building designed by \"My personal drive is to improve genuine, sustainable winegrowing in NSW, Hennessy, Hennessy & Co. through our actions,\" he says. \"Firstly, by encouraging regenerative farming and paying the right price for quality growers. Hennessy is accessed via an express lift from the hotel lobby. www. \"Then, sourcing suitable varieties from each region and continuing to explore mayfairhotel.com.au. those varieties to ensure a healthy future through climate change. Lastly, making wines with a smaller footprint; using domestically produced, mostly SOFITEL’S GOURMET ADELAIDE OFFERING recycled, glass or using local facilities.” ADELAIDE'S newest gourmet destination is Garçon Bleu. With elevated BAROSSA AND TASSIE COLLABORATION city views from its location on level nine of the new Sofitel Adelaide, the 90-seat restaurant aims to serve accessible French cuisine. IT is 10 years since one show result made the world of wine sit up and take notice of Tasmania. Garçon Bleu's dining room boasts an open kitchen, an extensive wine wall, and an up-lit oyster and raw seafood bar. Nick Glaetzer of Glaetzer-Dixon Family Wines took out the most famous wine show trophy in Australia, the Jimmy Watson Trophy at the 2011 Royal Melbourne Executive head chef overseeing creative direction is Justin Dingle- Wine Show, with a cool-climate Tasmanian shiraz. Garciyya, who was classically French trained under Raymond Blanc at the two Michelin starred Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons in Oxford. The 2010 Mon Père Shiraz, named after Nick's winemaker father Colin, attracted global attention: a Tasmanian shiraz beating the best of Australia. It was a mighty He has worked at some of the world's best five-star hotels and resorts feat and put Tasmanian reds other than pinot noir firmly in the spotlight. including for Aman Resorts and Jean Georges Vongerichten. Barossa boy turned fierce Tasmanian advocate Glaetzer recently hosted a one-off “While Garcon Bleu honours the techniques of French cuisine, it colours tasting event at his urban winery in Hobart to celebrate the 10th anniversary. The outside the lines, delivering dishes that are modern in creation,\" he says. Mon Père Shiraz has since become something of a cult wine for Glaetzer-Dixon, \"We are making French cuisine more accessible and fun, and we are selling out quickly each year. Glaetzer has, however, kept a few cases aside from excited to present our unique take on it.” each vintage. Working alongside Dingle-Garciyya is Chef de Cuisine Gianni Delogu, For the 2022 vintage, Nick, and his wife Sally Glaetzer (née Dixon), who both hail who has previously worked at Melbourne restaurants Vue de Monde and from the Barossa, will harvest the first shiraz from their new vineyard at Tea Tree Grossi Florentino. in the Coal River Valley, which they planted in 2018. Menu highlights include twice-baked cheese soufflé with mushroom \"Among the new vines are some Barossa Old Vine cuttings, taken from a 100-year- old vineyard in the Barossa, which we sourced as a nod to our Barossa heritage but also because we are excited to see what Tassie’s unique climate and the soil profile will do to this particular shiraz clone,” he says. 12 W I N E S TAT E W ine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022

briefs velouté and pickled shimeji mushrooms; Adelaide Hills 'Buzz Honey' “We have set up a free, easy recycling program,” says co-founder Kim glazed duck breast, duck leg bon-bon with an apricot and carrot puree McKee. “Each six-pack includes a pre-paid satchel for people to put their and sauce a l'orange and sous vide Southern Rock Lobster tail, grilled empties in and drop in the mail. They then go direct to our recycling partner, watermelon, and dessert lime with a bisque emulsion. REDcycle. This is the first ‘mail-in’ system of this kind that we know of.” The menu includes a vegetarian offering to cater for the growing The first Greenskin release features six different wines from the 2020 vegetarian, vegan and flexitarian markets. vintage made by producers in Margaret River and Great Southern. Sommelier Trevor Maskell has curated a selection of French and Co-founder Mike Davies says: \"Forget your disturbing goon-bag Australian wines with several by the glass. They range from Domaine Jean memories from yesteryear; this is all about quality wine in a smart, Dauvissat Chablis and Ministry of Clouds Picpoul to labels like Henschke. convenient package.\" WYNNS’ GREAT RETIRES Greenskin Wine Series One has six different wines, sold by the six-pack direct to consumers. Prices are in line with a regular mid-level bottles at around $25-$30. GREAT wines are often made by a team. In the case of Wynns Coonawarra Estate, that team has comprised winemaker Sue Hodder, her offsider Sarah Check out the details and sustainability benefits at www.greenskinwine.com. Pidgeon and viticulturist Allen Jenkins. A RARE BIRD INDEED Jenkins, however, has retired after spending 20 years working on the many vineyards that Wynns has in the Coonawarra region. SOME of the biggest names in hospitality in Victoria are combining to create a new bar and restaurant in the NSW border city of Albury. “It is incredibly rewarding to have led Wynns’ talented viticultural team for the past 20 years,\" he said. Yardbird is the brainchild of leading Melbourne restaurateur Denis Lucey and fine dining couple Simon Arkless and Cait Mitchelhill with input from \"We have a profound respect for our heritage, each other, and the wine guru Ben Knight. precious environment that is Coonawarra. The team is breathing new life into the former site of the Hogs Breath \"There is an intense focus on the needs of the vines, on implementing new Café on Townsend St as Albury develops a more sophisticated wining and courageous viticultural techniques, and on unravelling the endlessly and dining scene. complex web of interactions involved in growing the perfect grape.” Simon, Cait and Denis are bringing slick city vibes to the region’s already WINE ON THE GO strong culinary scene in a saw tooth-roofed former industrial building that was once a mechanics workshop. WINE in pouches? You’d better believe it. Greenskin Wines are promoted as Australia’s first 100% recyclable, re- Lucey, from Melbourne's Bottega, has run several top-notch restaurants, sealable, glassless way to enjoy while Arkless and Mitchelhill until recently ran the hatted The Terrace at quality wine. All Saints Estate outside Rutherglen. Ideal for taking on a picnic, or to the beach, the lightweight, Yardbird promises to be all about \"bold flavours\" using the intense heat \"unbreakable\", re-sealable of a newly imported Spanish Mibrasa oven. Greenskin pouches each hold 750ml of wine, take 80% less Think dishes like charcoal-grilled Wagyu hanger steak with watercress energy than glass to produce, and fresh horseradish, or a salad of roast Jerusalem artichoke, local blood and weigh 40% less than orange, goat curd and hazelnuts. bottles, producing far fewer emissions in manufacture and The snack menu will have a Spanish/Euro feel with charcuterie, tortillas, transport. They also come with croquettas and Padrón peppers. a reply-paid envelope to send them away for recycling when Sommelier Knight has designed the wine list. Along with Australian they are empty. favourites, he promises \"wines you might well have never heard of\". The list will feature over 200 wines plus craft beers on tap and cocktails highlighting local distilleries. Yardbird will feature booth seating, a combination of high and low tables and a large wood fireplace for cosy, social dining all year round. For details see www.yardbird.com.au. Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022 W I N E S TAT E 13

briefs A TASSIE CELEBRATION of Salamanca - family operated Lenna is hugely popular with regular guests. The rooms are upbeat with modern facilities while the public areas have a country HOBART eatery The Glass House, took out the honours at the second annual Tassie manor house vibe. Wine Stars event in late October. The waterfront venue, which describes itself as \"a dining bar\", was crowned the 2021 Judges' Choice Tasmanian Wine List of the Year With several new hotels in Hobart - and more on the way - Lenna operates in a at the celebration of all things Tasmanian at Tamar Ridge cellar door in Rosevears. competitive environment. Its two- and three-bedroom penthouse apartments are extremely popular with well-heeled visitors. The Glass House is known for elegant cocktails, Tasmanian-inspired share plates and 280-degree water views. There is old-school hospitality here: 24-hour reception, complimentary wifi and free on-site parking; something of a rarity in Hobart. The wine list includes sparkling wines from House of Arras and Belbonne; table wines from Stargazer, Kate Hill, Domaine Simha, Stoney Rise, Marco Lubiana and There is an on-site restaurant - Alexanders, room service, the cosy Chandelier Tolpuddle, along with benchmark pinots from Two Tonne, Small Island, Hughes Lounge Bar, where you can sip on Lenna Gin and Battery Point Distillery Whisky, & Hughes and Apsley Gorge, and a range of interstate and imported standouts. crafted in the adjacent micro distillery. Winestate correspondent Winsor Dobbin was one of the judges. Rooms feature either mountain or harbour views and the CBD is just a pleasant The award event brought together Tasmanian wine producers, local wine trade stroll away. and hospitality representatives along with visiting interstate wine trade guests. The older section of the hotel has many historic nooks and crannies and there The Old Bank of Geeveston in the Huon Valley took out the 2021 Tasmanian Wine are some lovely gardens in which to chill out with a glass of Tasmanian wine. List of the Year - Regional Venue , while Tasmanian Food & Wine Conservatory in Sassafras was awarded the 2021 People's Choice Tasmanian Wine List of the See www.lenna.com.au. Year, as voted by Tasmanian wine lovers. YALUMBA GETS NEW LOOK Wine Tasmania’s CEO Sheralee Davies commended the 2021 Tasmanian Wine List of the Year winners as well as each of the finalists. ESTABLISHED in 1849, Yalumba is Australia’s oldest family-owned winery. One of its star turns is the Yalumba Y Series - arguably the best-value range in Australia. \"Tasmanian hospitality operators have experienced a very challenging year,\" she said. \"To have such a strong and diverse list of finalists demonstrating their Yalumba has just launched a fresh look for its Y Series collection, including a new unwavering support for our local wines is outstanding, and we thank them all. label design and brand campaign. The refreshed look is now hitting retail shelves and heroes the distinctive signature letter ‘Y.’ \"These awards are all about recognising and rewarding venues that are doing great things to support local wines - it’s not about having a big wine list or only Yalumba marketing manager Jacinta Gibson said: “The Y Series features a broad Tasmanian wines on the list, but about having a focus on Tasmanian wines, collection of refreshing, fruit-driven wines from a trusted family-owned winery.\" appropriate to the individual venue's size, location, style and cuisine.\" “Consumers can confidently explore different varieties in their purest form at an At the same event, the VinØ (\"vin zero\") Program Awards recognised the affordable price point.” sustainability practices of two wine producers. The Yalumba Y Series As part of Wine Tasmania’s VinØ Program, which helps wine producers measure, range has an RRP of $15 improve and report their sustainability and management practices, two awards a bottle. The collection were announced at the event. features 12 red and white wine varieties, including a Southwood Wines in Kellevie, east of Sorrell, was announced as the VinØ new wine – Y Series Pinot Program Most Improved Producer while Waterton Hall in the Tamar Valley is the Noir. VinØ Program Champion of 2021. The new label designs The VinØ Program is a comprehensive, user-friendly resource, focused on key feature 12 original pieces areas of vineyard and winery management including soil health, biodiversity, waste of artwork created by South and water management, biosecurity and emissions reduction. Australian artist Cindy Durant. Each artwork is Tasmania's leading sparkling wine festival returned in November after a brief inspired by her visits to period on ice. Yalumba and depict a layer of the vineyard, from sun to The finest sparkling houses on the Apple Isle came together to display their best soil to wind. cuvées at the Effervescence Tasmania festival, which offered guests the opportunity to sample over 50 sparkling wines from around Tasmania, poured by the people All Y Series wines are who grow and make them. vegan friendly, gluten free and 100% wild fermented. New on the calendar was the Spring in the Vines weekend with over 35 vineyards in the south of Tasmania opening their doors to the public during the last weekend For more details see of October. Yalumba.com. Producers offered tastings, food and entertainment throughout the Coal River Valley, Huon Valley, d’Entrecasteaux Channel and Derwent Valley. New wineries, vineyards and cellar doors were among the attractions with brothers Jonny and Matt Hughes of Mewstone at Flowerpot opening their architecturally designed cellar door to the public for the first time especially for the festival. A TRULY WELL-KEPT SECRET IT is often lazy journalism to describe a destination as being a “well-kept secret” but in the case of Hobart’s lovely Lenna Hotel it is true. Tucked away in Battery Point - but just a short stroll to the bars and restaurants 14 W I N E S TAT E W ine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022

nzbriefs what’s happening in the NZ wine scene EMMA JENKINS MW UK WINE SHORTAGE with an array of botanicals,” he explains, “but after trialling all sorts of different combinations, we realised we only needed to add one - juniper. THE impact of New Zealand’s reduced 2021 harvest is already being felt in The sauvignon blanc spirit tastes so extraordinary we didn’t want to disguise its second largest export market. UK reports detail looming stock shortages it.” Strange Nature, which is bottled by hand in a green heritage-style amid longer-term concerns of importers and retailers replacing own-label bottle, showcases sauvignon’s characteristic aromatic, fruity tropical/citrus/ Marlborough sauvignon blanc with wines from elsewhere. Supermarket herbaceous personality. At this stage, it’s only available in New Zealand chain Morrison’s successful 64 Edge sauvignon brand is no longer but plans are afoot for Australian distribution. exclusively Marlborough, having now been expanded to South African and Chilean wines. Morrison’s Charles Cutteridge says this allows them to offer FASHIONABLE ROSÉ wines “as close to the Marlborough style as we can”. Merchant, importer and distributor Lanchester Wines followed suit, subbing in South African CENTRAL Otago’s Amisfield are a stylish bunch so it’s not surprising to find sauvignon to fill Marlborough gaps. While its flagship Nika Tiki label will they have an ongoing collaboration with lauded fashion designer Juliette remain Marlborough fruit, director of purchasing Lesley Cook said with Hogan. In 2019, she created a print inspired by the schist stonework of shortage of 2020’s remaining wines, upon hearing of NZ’s spring frosts they their beautiful stone restaurant building, developing a series of bespoke immediately sourced South African fruit to create a new wine, Moloko Bay. prints for the staff uniforms at the winery’s Lake Hayes restaurant and cellar “I sent bottles of Nika Tiki to South Africa in January for analysis, so that the door. This spring, Hogan and Amisfield celebrated the winery’s first fully wineries could try to match it…We needed to find something to replicate organic harvest with a new print drawing upon the vineyards’ burgeoning Nika Tiki in the portfolio to help our customers satisfy their own customers.” biodiversity. The Amisfield team’s new uniform - a design they say is “full New Zealand Winegrowers CEO Philip Gregan feels confident this origin of life and vigour” - has been accompanied by a limited release 2021 Pinot shift will be a short-term issue, noting \"We're a trusted, supplier, trusted Noir Rosé, featuring the same print on the logo. Amisfield’s Marketing region, we've got a lot of consumer fans,\" and adding that “the shortage Manager, Richard Birkby said, “We love working with Juliette Hogan. Not of product would vary from country to country, as different exporters had only do the staff look and feel great in the garments Juliette creates but it’s different priority markets and strategic goals”. Wine Marlborough General a true partnership between designer, viticulturalists, winemakers and chefs. Manager Marcus Pickens agrees, saying “the industry did see [this] coming It’s great to be working together like that to create ways to express our following two seasons of low yield grapes coupled with shipping and labour approach in the vineyard in a medium beyond wine. Bringing that back into problems, but the good reputation that New Zealand wine has established in and onto the bottle with a special wine like this brings everything full-circle”. the UK market should hold it in a good position for when volumes recover”. One positive development on the UK front is the newly announced trade COVID STRIKES AGAIN deal which over the next 15 years will remove tariffs on 97% of NZ’s export goods; the wine industry an immediate winner with its tariffs of $50 per 100 THE mid-August appearance of the Delta variant in Auckland upended litres of wine being removed upon the deal’s settlement. NZ’s relatively unscathed run with covid, with the ongoing fall-out and uncertainty claiming further event scalps, including the Hawke’s Bay Wine VILLA MARIA SOLD TO INDEVIN Auction. This much-anticipated event will now be held on 17th September 2022, celebrating Hawke’s Bay wines and raising vital funds for Cranford VILLA MARIA wines has been sold to New Zealand-owned contract Hospice. In lieu of the 2021 event, people are encouraged to make a winemaker Indevin for an undisclosed sum. The sale includes Villa Maria’s donation to the Hospice. Marlborough, Hawkes Bay and Auckland wineries, its vineyards, supplier agreements, founding label Villa Maria as well as the Esk Valley, Vidal, GROOVY PEGASUS BAY Leftfield and Thornbury brands. Indevin, which has three wineries and over 5000 hectares of vineyards throughout Marlborough, Gisborne and Hawke’s AFTER a nearly 14-year hiatus, North Canterbury winery Pegasus Bay has Bay, plans to invest further in Villa Maria. Chairman Greg Tomlinson says released its Main Divide Volume 5 compilation album, featuring established Villa Maria will complement their existing business, “The coming together and up-and-coming New Zealand musical talent. Marketing Manager Ed of two successful New Zealand wine export businesses supports our vision Donaldson explains, “one thing that’s remained constant is the positive effect to become the leading New Zealand global wine business, spearheaded music has on our lives and society as a whole. It brings us together, lifts our by the Villa Maria brand. This collaboration will be significant for the New mood, and can provide a sense of euphoria and altered state at its best”. The Zealand wine industry and we are delighted Villa Maria will remain in New album is available for download and streaming at maindivide.com. Zealand ownership”. WINE INTO… GIN? GIESEN Wines has come up with an innovative solution for the alcohol removed from its 0% alcohol sauvignon blanc – a double-distilled handcrafted gin. The newly-launched Strange Nature gin derives its unique flavour from grapes rather than the traditional botanicals. Strange Nature Distilling and Giesen Group General Manager Kyle Skene has spent 18 months refining the gin, developed after he tasted the pure sauvignon blanc alcohol left over from the 0% production. \"Gins are usually created Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022 W I N E S TAT E 15

europeanreport WORDS SALLY EASTON MW BORDEAUX IS LA PLACE BORDEAUX’S unique trading system, called ‘la generic Bordeaux appellation wine brands, growth Château Mouton Rothschild. In 1998, place’, is becoming something of a magnet for all the way to the bottled wines of the poshest Chile’s Almaviva, from a single estate in the non-Bordeaux high profile producers wanting to first growths. It is a trading and distribution Maipo Valley, and made jointly with Concha y tap into the global sales and distribution network network for the most basic of wines and for the Toro, was the first non-Bordeaux wine to be sold that la place offers. most expensive and prestigious. It is typically via la place. Six years later it was joined by Opus estimated that the posh end accounts for less One, from Napa Valley, in California, and made You’d be forgiven for thinking that la place than 5% of the volume of all Bordeaux wine. in conjunction with the Robert Mondavi winery. is a geographical place somewhere, akin to Both wines rely heavily on Bordeaux’s signature Paris’ La Place de la Concorde, at the end of It is also a system that has evolved, over several grape variety, cabernet sauvignon. the Champs-Elysées. But La Place de Bordeaux hundred years since its earliest beginnings. In is not a physical location at all, though the more recent decades la place has come in Additionally, both wines are ‘top drawer’ key action happens in Bordeaux. La place is for much criticism, for having many layers of products. While all quality ranges and styles of a marketplace, a distribution system for the apparently arcane business, adding margin into Bordeaux bulk and bottled wines are sold via la wines of Bordeaux. In Bordeaux, a consumer the supply chain. Also over the years, it has done place, it is the flagship wines of out-of-region typically cannot buy wine directly from the its job well enough to withstand the critiques – it producers, being distributed via la place, as producer. Instead, producers reach consumers though to rub shoulders with the prestige end by selling their wine via la place: selling to Very roughly 70% of all of la place’s role. brokers (courtiers), who sell to negociants (distributors) in Bordeaux, who link with shippers Bordeaux wine is sold via In the beginning, the French connection was a and distributors in around 170 countries around useful asset to gain introduction to la place. Chile the world, and thence to consumers in those la place, from bulk wine already had strong historical links, receiving French markets (including the French domestic market). immigrants in the 19th century, many of whom This allows the sometimes-minute granularity for blending into generic arrived to grow vines, escaping their phylloxera- of wine distribution across many international ravaged homeland. Other posh South American markets, which can be advantageous for an Bordeaux appellation wine producers followed in Almaviva’s footsteps. Clos expensive flagship wine, especially of limited Apalta, another Bordeaux blend, continued the volume, reaching a geographically wide, and brands, all the way to the French connection. Grand Marnier liqueur’s original specialist, consumer base. owners, the Marnier Lapostolle family, had set up bottled wines of the poshest Casa Lapostolle in 1994. Others include Viñedo La place is, to all extents and purposes, an Chadwick, and Seña (originally an Errazuriz and outsourced international sales and distribution first growths. Robert Mondavi joint venture). From neighbouring department. And it has extensive, web-like reach, Argentina Cheval des Andes - a joint venture in that one negociant (and there are around has largely withstood the test of time. A recent between Bordeaux’s Château Cheval Blanc and 300 of these companies) might have detailed evolution looks to be that of increasingly selling Argentina’s Terrazas de los Andes, both owned distribution networks in a few markets. When posh wines from outside the region, and country. by luxury goods giant LVMH, states its aim to be a a producer links up with several negociants, ‘grand cru of the Andes’. Catena Zapata also sells the potential global reach for the producer can This trade in non-Bordeaux wine started around their flagship brand Nicolás Catena Zapata via the become ‘instantly’ huge. For minimal effort. 20 years ago with two joint venture projects, Bordeaux marketplace. both of which involved Bordeaux classified first Very roughly 70% of all Bordeaux wine is sold The Opus One example opened the way for via la place, from bulk wine for blending into other premium Californian wines, with the likes 16 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022

Follow us and keep up to date with all our latest wine info, tastings and events on facebook, twitter and instagram. of Inglenook (Francis Ford Coppola) and Joseph especially in European and Asian markets. Connect on social with Phelps. Both these producers further the link Small volumes of Champagne Philipponnat’s Winestate between their origins in the Napa Valley, and highly reputed Clos des Goisses became the premium quality. first ‘prestige cuvée’ champagnes to be sold www.facebook.com/ via la place. Winestate-Magazine The need for a French connection may have twitter.com/winestateed been weakening, but the trend continues: Another first via la place, this time Rioja: www.instagram.com/winestate/ pedigree, poshness, price, and a prolific past Renowned Spanish producer Telmo Rodriguez’ all, or individually, seem to work. Critical acclaim new single vineyard Rioja, Yjar 2017, from the www.winestate.com.au – high scores from influential journos – helps Alavesa sub-region. And iconic Penfolds has too. In the late noughties, Italy joined in, with added to the Aussie contingent, with their Bin Masseto (Frescobaldi) and Solaia (Marchesi 169, 2018. Antinori) leading the path to the prestigious end of the La Place. And, in 2020, Australian This niche ‘internationalisation’ may be no bad wines appeared for the first time: John Riddoch thing for the la place system. It’s an elegant cabernet sauvignon from Wynns Coonawarra counter to the arguments of its decline and Estate, and The Armagh shiraz, Clare Valley, anachronism. Whether it is an experimental from Jim Barry. The Langton’s classification blip or the beginnings of beautiful relationships ranks both of these in its top – exceptional – tier, is a story for the future. How much does a so no additional prestige is needed, but lining up system mired in and moulded by Bordeaux on the same bench with other top international wines truly understand the full stories behind a wines adds a new dimension. Napa cabernet, or a super Tuscan, or a Chilean cabernet-carmenere blend, or an Aussie shiraz? The pattern thus far is that non-Bordeaux Does that bit really matter? bottled wines are put on the la place market in September, after the traditional French August (summer) holidays. This neatly avoids the traditional busy time of selling the posh end of Bordeaux wines, tranches of which are typically sold from April to June/July, via the ‘en primeur’ campaign – or selling of much posh end, unfinished, wines, while they are still maturing in cask. September 2021 saw a gathering pace and spread of new entrants using la place to distribute selected wines from their ranges. Chilean producer Viña Casa Real is selling its Casa Real Reserva Especial 2018, a cabernet sauvignon wine from Chile’s Maipo Valley, with the aim to gain greater international recognition, Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022 W I N E S TAT E 17

winetutor WORDS CLIVE HARTLEY AUSTRALIAN REGIONAL EXPRESSION. FACT OF FANTASY? RECOGNISING regional expression is one of Institute (AWRI), Charles Sturt University, attribute for the region’s shiraz. It is no surprise the holy grails in the enjoyments of wine and and the National Wine and Grape Industry that both McLaren Vale and Barossa Valley an aspiration for wine producing countries. Centre (NWGIC) six different shiraz regions wines displayed more fruit aromas. They both Being able to open a bottle and clearly smell were analysed. The results were summarised had higher concentrations of beta-damascenone and taste the keynotes of a particular region in a recent article (winter 2021) of Wine and (red fruits and roses). adds value and is a cognitive enhancement Viticulture Journal. The aim of the study is to that separates wine from other beverages. The define regional variability and uniqueness of Climate and vintage conditions were French market this as terroir. A term cloaked premium Australian shiraz. The project used a investigated which explained some of the in mystery. It encompasses the soil, subsoil, sensory assessment known as Pivot© Profile sensory findings such as the floral aspect in and the microclimate that the vine grows in. a ‘rapid sensory method’ to look at wines from Canberra was related to the region having cooler Many commentators add the impact of the the Barossa Valley, Canberra District, Hunter night temperatures. Whilst warmer in climate that viticulturalist and winemaker into the definition, Valley, Heathcote, Yarra Valley and McLaren most other regions, the wetter vintages in the especially where customs and practices have Vale. Wines were selected from the 2015 and Hunter Valley resulted in earlier harvest, so the been developed over centuries. 2016 vintage. It confirmed some regional wines displayed lighter red fruit aromas. characteristics and then analysed the wines for In Australia we don’t have traditional practises the chemicals behind them. Using my own empirical research (tasting a engrained in our regions. Innovation, technical lot of wine over 30 years) the scientific study advances and trends, some reverting to retro The role that soil plays in consolidates my understanding of Australian practices, are our winemaking traits. Our regional shiraz. Other regions have signatures industry typically has roving winemakers that terroir/regional expression is as well. I find Margaret River shiraz has some have careers spent in numerous regions and cool maritime influences and displays stemmy countries, as well as turning their hand to not as clearly understood as red fruits under a medium bodied structure. making wines out of various grape varieties. The cooler climate Yarra Valley resulted in more The same winemaker making a shiraz as the impact of climate. rotundone, a compound that gives the key black well as a riesling would be extremely rare in pepper and herbal aromas found in cooler grown Europe, but commonplace in the Clare Valley for Canberra District was reported to rate ‘highly’ shiraz. Mornington Peninsula has definitely got example. Granted there are some ‘stay at home’ for floral notes, this was due to the monoterpene gentler red fruits as well as floral with underlying winemakers as well. compounds such as citronellol and trans- black and white pepper producing a pinot geraniol. These are found in citronella oil, so drinkers shiraz. But can regionalism shine through in Australian a glass at night might help keep mosquitoes wines? Well, it is easier to see regionality in at bay! Linalool was also found which gives Staying in Victoria, the Grampians display grape varieties that are made in a simpler way; floral and lavender aromas. Yarra Valley shiraz ground black pepper, whilst Bendigo has a rich without the complication of oak, for example, samples had noticeable compounds such as full bodied jammy plum flavour. Traditionally or manipulating the site by irrigating the vines ethyl cinnamate and ethyl dihydrocinnamate. these regions have also had some suggestion or the addition of acid in the winery. Riesling, Both of these display balsamic and cinnamon of eucalyptus. The Central Victorian Heathcote semillon and sauvignon blanc would qualify to spice. Dimethyl sulfide (DMS) was also found region is a bit different as it spans over 70km express their region easier than, say cabernet which can produce stalky and cooked cabbage north to south and has two distinct styles. The sauvignon or shiraz. notes, which I’m sure would not be a welcomed north being warmer akin to the riper black fruit Barossa style, whilst in the south, around the But it is with shiraz that there have been township of Heathcote, the wines have a spicy attempts at examining regional expressions. In black olive note, whilst still remaining robust, full a joint study by the Australian Wine Research bodied, and deeply coloured. In the ultra-cool 18 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022

SUBSCRIBE TO OUR COMPLETE PACKAGE which includes hard-copy and digital versions plus full on-line access to Winestate’s web site and reviews. Available only through online order, www.winestate.com.au Macedon Ranges and Sunbury regions you find white pepper and is as close to the Rhône Valley in style as you can get in Australia. Wines have good acidity and are medium bodied. Geelong sits in-between the cooler and warmer styles. In South Australia, Clare valley has ripe blackberry, black cherry but in the cooler Eden Valley shiraz displays plum, black cherry and olives. On the palate the wine is elegant well balanced and tending towards medium bodied. The role that soil plays in terroir/regional expression is not as clearly understood as the impact of climate. The Barossa Grounds project did demonstrate some impact of the soil type and you can read my article Grounds for Growth in November/December 2018 Winestate for more details. Elsewhere, Hunter Valley shiraz seems to grow better on red clay/loam soils close to the Brokenback ranges and leaves the flatter sandier alluvial soils to semillon. Traditionally the Hunter Valley gives an earthy, medium bodied wine with sweet cooking spice and lighter red and blue fruits. Leathery and the traditional ‘sweaty saddle’ was once the calling card of the Hunter, that was put down to the high rate of brettanomyces infection found in barrels but is now mostly a footnote in history. We have not touched on the impact of vine age. With such a wealth of old vines across three states it might have to have a separate article. GIFT SUBSCRIPTION Tel: 08 8357 9277 www.winestate.com.au Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022 W I N E S TAT E 19

winetravel WORDS ELISABETH KING NORTHERN DELIGHTS - WINING, DINING AND CHILLING IN YAMBA EXPERTS are predicting that Australians will overseen by general manager Garry Snodgrass been a place of pilgrimage since 2019. Open continue to holiday at home more even though who has previously worked at the Six Senses on weekends only, king and school prawns fresh international travel has opened up again. Not Soneva in the Maldives and luxury resorts in from the boats are the main attractions alongside to mention the joy of hitting the open road after Thailand, Vietnam and Fiji. A sophisticated blend Balmain bugs and oysters. Many fans buy a kilo months of lockdown in Sydney and Melbourne. My of nostalgia and Hamptons style, The Surf's or two of prawns and eat them out of hand on the first trip out of town was to Yamba, the increasingly decor centres on terrazzo tiles, original artworks, nearby beach. popular beach town about 120 kilometres south bespoke sofas and Hay Bella coffee tables. A of Byron Bay. steal at $295 per night. It's hard to argue with the tagline of the Sanctus Brewing Co - crafted in God's country. Located in Many ill-informed writers claim that Yamba has Yamba has five beaches to choose from - Main, Townsend, a 20-minute drive from Yamba, there's only recently become \"the new Byron\". Hardly. Whiting, Convent, Turner and Pippi - which helps to plenty to like in the stylish corrugated iron and There has been a millionaires' row overlooking preserve its quiet vibe. One of the best ports of call brick brewery with soaring ceilings. The company the town's pristine beaches for nearly 20 years for foodies is the Yamba Farmers and Producers offers small group tours of up to 10, complete and houses routinely sell in excess of $2 million Market, held every Wednesday in the car park at with a tasting paddle of its signature brews. Head and up to $4.6 million. The sort of cafe culture Whiting Beach. Over 40 stallholders offer local brewer, Banjo Hillier, has all thirsts covered from and food scene that flows from the arrival of more produce such as Conrad Park grass-fed beef, Big River XPA through Empty Head Pilsner, Sweet moneyed residents is very much in evidence. Ashby artisan sourdough bread, Clarence River Disposition IPA, Triple B Stout and Valley Pale Ale. While The Pacific Hotel, long Yamba's most The brewery also dishes up superior pub grub from important landmark building, was the subject of a If you think that's Chris wood-fired pizzas to fish tacos and beer-battered $50 million bidding war between two of Sydney's fish and chips. major pub and hotel empires, Merivale and the Hemsworth standing at the Laundy family, in early 2021. The trend for gourmet burgers shows no sign of bar, it might be. The Thor waning and why should it. The standout burger When the Pacific first opened in 1934, it was place in town is BRGR Spot. I am a major fan of the hailed as \"the most perfectly appointed place of actor often pops in from his Almighty Cheezus - 150g of wagyu beef, streaky all seaside resorts north of Sydney\". Overlooking bacon, house tomato relish, fried mozzarella sticks Yamba's Main Beach and NSW's northernmost palatial home in Byron Bay. and blue cheese mayo. For vegetarians there's the ocean pool, the pub houses an homage to the Greened Out, anchored by a kale patty, avocado, area's long surfing history. There's also a bistro milk, Boorabee Dorper lamb and the fantastic, broccoli, charred vegies and sundried tomato aioli. and a recent multi-million dollar revamp of the cured meats of The Big Salami. Sushi Wallabi Or pig out on the Shnit Happens - pork schnitzel, northern wing offers upmarket king and queen relocated from Byron Bay and you can find sushi bacon Swiss cheese, red cabbage and fennel suites with balconies and sea views. If you think master Genki crafting his wares from Woodburn- kraut, currywurst saus and pickles. that's Chris Hemsworth standing at the bar, it grown rice and seafood from The Clarence River might be. The Thor actor often pops in from his Fishermen's Cooperative. Zac Roberts and Gale Bourke ran the popular palatial home in Byron Bay. Leche Cafe for six years and opened the upmarket Over 10 years ago, celebrity chef and restaurateur Karrikin restaurant in late 2018. The chic yet The latest upscale accommodation to open is Matt Moran made national headlines when he said laidback decor is the perfect backdrop for the The Surf Yamba, a 12-room boutique hotel. The that Yamba prawns are known internationally for constantly changing Modern Australian menus property is owned by David, Andrew and Phillip being the biggest, sweetest and, more importantly, using local produce and native ingredients. Only Mayne, who also operate the Barkley Homestead the best. He likened the delicacy to the Sydney rock the core ingredient is outlined on the menu listings, in the Northern Territory. The Art-Deco-inspired oyster and declared that if there's a better prawn so every dish brought to the table is a surprise. curved building is reminiscent of the cruise ships anywhere else in the world, he didn't know about it. Think karaage chicken, mapo tofu ramen and of the 1930s and the interiors are the work of the coconut, lychee and melon trifle. Design King Company in Sydney. There's a roof The Yamba Prawn Shack on the marina has top terrace, plunge pool and 360-degree views, The Sandbar bills itself as a beachside bistro. The main magnet is seafood and the contemporary 20 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022

cuisine showcases a French twist. Oysters Follow us and keep up to date with all our latest dressed in passionfruit and chilli salsa make a wine info, tastings and palate-popping starter, followed by popular mains events on facebook, twitter and instagram. such as char-grilled yamba prawns, crispy skin Winestate Magazine barramundi with French ratatouille and chorizo @WinestateEd mayonnaise and grilled tenderloin with Paris mash, red wine jus and pepper sauce. French wines are peppered throughout the wine list from Les Allees du Vignoble Petit Chablis to Chateau Suau organic wine from Bordeaux, backed up by Australian and Kiwi bottlings. Cocktails are a prime lure at Paradiso, a former shop themed-up like a speakeasy, and so is the modern Asian menu. The wagyu steak with soy mustard dressing and shallots is one of the best beef dishes you will ever eat. Spice lovers can satisfy their cravings with the red crispy duck with hot numbing sauce and a trio of handmade dumplings including lamb and fennel with house dark chilli paste and pork and chilli with szechuan seasoning. Wash it all down with some cool imported Asian beers or minimum intervention red and whites from Sigurd Wines in the Barossa. On the drive up or down the coast, I often visit Two Tails Wines, only one-hour due south of Yamba at Nana Glen. The award-winning winery has a stunning cellar door and specialises in varietals such as chambourcin, villard blanc and jaquez, fruit wines and chardonnay. Velvets Restaurant is a destination eatery for both its menu and breathtaking setting in the Orara Valley. Book ahead to enjoy grazing plates such as zucchini fritters with smoked scamorza cheese and truffle aioli, confit salmon farinata pancakes and twice- cooked pork belly with compressed apple, saffron aioli and mustard jus. Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022 W I N E S TAT E 21

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DOING IT DIFFERENTLY IN THE RIVERLAND THE SUCCESS STORY OF 919 WINES JOY WALTERFANG “MUM’S the word,” I was told before I interviewed Eric Semmler for this article. has now been acknowledged for excellence in achieving the great wines he You see Eric hadn’t yet been told that he had won the 2021 Best Fortified of the produces. I put on the record the fantastic result that Eric and Jenny Semmler Year Category for his Classic Muscat. He only knew that two of his wines had have achieved for the Riverland, for the South Australian wine industry and made it into the top five finalists for that category [yet again] and that he was for tourism in our area…” also a nominee for the Australian Winemaker of the Year [for a second time in a row]. Although he did get pipped at the post this year for the winemaker The Riverland is the largest wine growing and producing region in award, he isn’t new to that honour. Eric was named Australian Winemaker of Australia; hailed as the backbone of the national wine industry because the Year in 2013 - news that actually made it into the government’s Hansard it contributes more than 30% to Australia’s total grape crush. But it has an records – surely that must be a first! erroneous image of being an area only capable of producing bulk wines; quantity rather than quality. At a meeting of the Senate on the 3rd of December 2013 Senator The Honourable Anne Ruston wanted it recorded in Hansard that Eric Semmler Not so! Over the past thirteen years Eric and Jenny Semmler have rolled of 919 Wines had been named Australian Winemaker of the Year by up their sleeves and shown that the Riverland can produce small volume, Winestate magazine. specialist table wines of outstanding quality that regularly steal the gold from the Nation’s wine shows and proudly display, on their labels, that their wines “It is probably not terribly exceptional that a winemaker will be named are made in South Australia’s Riverland. winemaker of the year,” noted Senator Ruston. “But over many years the Riverland has been regarded as an area that produces only bulk wine. For Mr Obviously the Semmler’s knew there was nothing they could do about the Eric Semmler, from 919 Wines in Monash, to be named Australian Winemaker Riverland’s hot, semi-arid, climate but they could do something about what of the Year is extraordinarily exceptional. It sets the tone for where some of they planted there. They extensively researched grape varieties that grew our warmer-climate wines and their makers are going to in the future… It is well in the Mediterranean’s hot dry wine regions and eventually settled on absolutely fantastic that Mr Semmler has been acknowledged for making a handful of whites and reds that would not only thrive in the Riverland but wines to suit his climate and growing grapes that suit the climate and that he would also produce really good wines and give them a point of difference in the marketplace. Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022 W I N E S TAT E 23

Eric was the first to produce a varietal durif in south Australian but not the first to plant it (there was a small amount around but it was used for blending). The big bold red from France’s Mediterranean wine region of Languedoc and it has now become the winery’s most popular drop. They recently released a sparkling version of it [I’m thinking served with steak of Mastodon perhaps?] Portugal’s touriga nacional, is the dominant variety for that country’s fortified wine industry but it also produces a flavoursome full bodied red table wine and 919 Wines received top marks from the judges in a recent tasting of their touriga nacional. Wines made from Spain’s tempranillo and Tuscany’s sangiovese add to the Semmler’s ever increasing list of awards, as do the full-bodied whites they make from varieties important to southern France and the Mediterranean islands of Corsica and Sardinia; petit manseng and vermentino. “It is a simple formula really,” said Eric. “Get it right in the vineyard - produce high quality fruit, in a sustainable way and it doesn’t take too much to turn that fruit into good wine. And, in keeping with the Semmler’s philosophy of living sustainably within the environment, their vineyards and winery have been certified organic since 2011. In 2019 they won the Australian Organic Wine of the Year with their 2017 Shiraz. Eric spent 10 years with BRL Hardy as their fortified winemaker, probably why 919 are particularly well known for their superb range of fortifieds that regularly dominate Winestate’s Sweet White and Fortified tastings. Australian fortifieds are world class, no one can argue with that. “They are the unsung heroes of the wine industry,” agreed Eric. And he is pleased to report that there is a definite resurgence for fortified wines particularly amongst the younger generation. “They come with no preconceptions so just enjoy what they are tasting,” he said. I haven’t been allocated enough words for this article to list all the awards this winery has received, suffice to say in last year’s Winestate Annual the Best of Style section saw ten of 919 wines feature in eight different categories. By the time you read this the 2021 results will have been published; my money is on 919 for another stellar performance. So why the name 919? “We had a couple of names we were looking at to call our winery,” explained Eric. “But they were already registered so we decided to use the section number of our property on Hodges Road - 919. “As it has turned out the name has worked very well for us, it stands out, is easy to remember, which is vital for marketing your wines and also puts us at the top of any listings.” There is much drinking to look forward to in the near future because according to Eric, the 2021 vintage will be one to watch out for. “It has been a marvellous one, best since 2002 especially for giving excellent varietal expression.” Something Eric is particularly passionate about. Let’s finish off with more of Anne Ruston’s words from back in 2013. “I recommend to everybody in this place that if you are looking for an alternative drop of wine …you look up the brand 919 Wine from Monash and learn for yourself what a wonderful job he [Eric] does of using alternative grape varieties to make some fantastic wines.” Previous pages: Eric and Jenny Semmler in the vineyard. This page: A bottle of 919 Wines durif in the vineyard, the scenic Riverland. Opposite page: Jenny and Eric in the vineyard, and Eric pouring a glass of his wine in the vineyard. 24 W I N E S TAT E W ine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022

Over the past thirteen years Eric and Jenny Semmler have rolled up their sleeves and shown that the Riverland can produce small volume, specialist table wines of outstanding quality that regularly steal the golda from the nation’s wine shows and proudly display, on their labels, that their wines are made in South Australia’s Riverland. Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022 W I N E S TAT E 25

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The Art of Wine Embracing alternative varieties and getting it right, Artwine proves that fortune favours the brave. CHARLES GENT HITCHING one’s star to alternative grape varieties was seen as a There has been some recent consolidation at Artwine – they recently courageous move 13 years ago: for Artwine and its proprietors Glen and parted with one of their two Clare vineyards – but if you think the brakes Judy Kelly, fortune has very much favoured the brave. are being applied, think again. Artwine winery is based high in the Adelaide Hills east of the small town “We’ve got two more varieties going in next year,” says Judy. “We’re of Woodside, with the owners’ residence abutting a smart and stylish putting in picpoul, and falanghina and additional gamay clones. At the glass-walled cellar-door, all set in the midst of the home vineyards. moment we’ve got 13 varieties that we make 17 wines from, so we’ll have 17 varieties that we’ll probably make 21 wines from. That’s a lot.” Glen, an erstwhile banker and market researcher and Judy, who formerly worked in corporate PR, had travelled extensively and were both firm fans There’s upkeep too. The original plantings of tempranillo in Clare are of European varieties and styles, particularly in accompanying food. As currently being replaced with a new clone. Australian interest in the so-called alternative varieties from Spain, Italy and France began to acquire momentum, the Kellys made their own While all the wines are made in commercial quantities, total production is commitment. An initial purchase of vineyards in Clare was followed by only around the 10,000-case mark, and the Kellys are intent on remaining the acquisition of the Adelaide Hills property. Judy remembers that when boutique in scale, which will enable them to retain their emphasis on word of the Kellys varietal ambitions leaked out in Clare, there was more fruit quality. than a little local scepticism. “Our focus is very much on the vineyard,” Judy says. “If you haven’t got In the intervening years, they have embraced the cause with great gusto, good fruit, you’re never going to get good wine, so we’ve put all our effort as their list of current wines attests. It features, in addition to the now more into the vineyards, and we’re very particular about the fruit. It’s minimal familiar grapes of pinot gris/grigio, grenache and prosecco (both a pink winemaking then; you don’t have to do that much.” and a white version), the varieties of pinot noir, albarino, tempranillo, fiano, graciano, gruner veltliner, montepulciano, viognier, arneis, sangovese, “The thing about the new Mediterranean varieties that we’re growing is grenache gris, gamay and cabernet franc. that they are climatically suited. We’ve got the right ones in Clare, we’ve got the right ones here, we’ve got them facing the right way; it’s all climatically appropriate, which makes them more sustainable in the long term.” Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022 W I N E S TAT E 27

While all the wines are made Although intimately involved in the winemaking in commercial quantities, total process, the Kellys have long standing production is only around the arrangements with two contract winemakers. 10,000-case mark, and the Kellys are intent on remaining The results have been impressive. In its boutique in scale, which will comparatively short history, the Artwine range enable them to retain their has achieved a remarkable record of success at emphasis on fruit quality. wine shows and with critics. The 29 trophies to date include recent wins for their cabernet franc at the Clare Wine Show, as well as a trophy from the Australian Single Vineyard Wine Show for their grenache. They have also won 4 trophies from Winestate for their pinot grigio, gruner veltliner, montepulciano and fiano. The course of viticulture never runs smooth. In the wake of the bushfires in late 2019, the entire crop of Artwine’s Hills vineyard was lost to smoke taint. The fire itself came within metres of the Kelly’s house, burning pinot noir vines and a garden hedge as well as a wood lot on the edge of the property. On balance, the Kellys who left their home “stupidly late” consider themselves to have been very lucky. With only their Clare Valley vines producing in 2020, Glen and Judy got “a bit creative”, as she puts it. “We looked at what we had in barrel that we could do something with and made a sparkling montepulciano. We put it on at cellar door only, just a hundred dozen, to see what happened. Sold out. So, we made another one, and now we’re making a third.” 28 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022

In another piece of winemaking whimsy, Artwine has produced what they believe to be the world’s only fortified fiano, which Judy has named ‘Yes Minister’, in slightly ironic tribute to her Welsh grandfather, who was a teetotal Presbyterian minister. As if to compensate for 2020, the 2021 vintage has been spectacular right across the board, Judy Kelly says. “It was cool, it was a great summer, the vines were happy, we got a bit of rain. It was a perfect vintage.” In addition to the ongoing bushfire threat, Artwine faces another nagging anxiety in the possible reanimation of a 19th century gold mine, its site only a few hundred metres from cellar door. The proposal, which has been strongly opposed by Artwine, their neighbours Bird in Hand and other local residents, is still pending. Elegant and increasingly adventurous labels are another characteristic of Artwine, as are lively wine names. The newly released first vintage of their albarino is dubbed ‘The Real Thing’, a reference to the shemozzle around the initial importation of the grape that saw several vignerons plant the wrong variety. The Kellys narrowly avoided being caught up, but after a 10-year wait are now very happy to be producing authentic albarino. In fact, you get a distinct sense that the Kellys are pretty happy, full stop. “We just love this whole alternative thing: the wines are so exciting and so food-friendly.” Previous pages top to bottom left to right: Exterior of Artwine cellar door, enjoying a glass of red in the Artwine garden, a long lunch in the Artwine vinyard enjoying delicious food and wine. Opposite page top to bottom: Artwine long luch in the vineyard, exterior doors to Artwine cellar door. This page top to bottom: Judy and Glen Kelly with an award from Winestate, aerial view of Artwine property, Judy and Glen with their dogs, beautiful dogs sitting outside cellar door and kangaroo in the Artwine vineyard. Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022 W I N E S TAT E 29

THE VERDICT’S IN KARYN FOSTER Judge: Have you considered your verdict? Jury Foreman: Yes sir Judge: Is Barristers Block guilty or innocent of being a great winery? Jury Foreman: Guilty! Judge: Is Barristers Block guilty or innocent of making excellent wines? Jury Foreman: Guilty! Judge: Is Barristers Block guilty or innocent of delivering a complete wine experience? Jury: Guilty! A legal fracas inspired the name for the brand much admired by not only legal eagle loyal clients but a gallery of wine buff customers. Barristers Block was created over 20 short years ago, from little more than an idea. It was fashioned into a dream, built into reality and realized into a future legacy for Jan Siemelink-Allen’s family. Jan grew up in a rural family; a move to the South-East of South Australia, adjacent Coonawarra exposed her to some of the region’s most influential vintners and winemakers and set her on her groundbreaking path… starting with hand-stone-picking 30 acres of land for her first vineyard. Jan oversees the production of over 15,000 cases of wine (and growing) and the management of almost 50 acres over two vineyards at Wrattonbully in the South-East of the state and Woodside in the Adelaide Hills. Sales are conducted nationwide and most importantly to customers direct, on- line and via an outstanding cellar door and headquarters at Woodside. Barristers Block’s success is evidenced by the ‘sell-out’ of every recent vintage. A rare claim in a crowded market achieved by an “integrated wine tourism business” as described by Jan. It didn’t just happen… in usual Jan fashion, it was planned. 30 W I N E S TAT E W ine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022

Barristers Block guilty of being a great wine brand! As a single mother of two young boys Jan appreciated many years ago, the value and need for a family experience. The Woodside estate combines a cellar door and separate intimate tasting room for tutored wine tastings. The historic former dairy property includes a fine dining space for weekday 5-star food offerings, a blended indoor/outdoor weekend casual area for tasting and grazing, as well as a function venue. For those that love a picnic or walk – beautiful gardens, rolling lawns and paddocks of petting animals, play areas and even a sandpit. All topped off with the gracious 3-bedroom Vigneron Villa accommodation in the original homestead. Jan is proud of what she achieved as her own boss and a one-man-band (or one-woman-band?) in the early days. Barristers Block as founded by Jan is now firmly a family concern. Agricultural Production graduate son Lachlan is Operations Manager; Double degreed James, an accountant, accomplished in his own right, responsible for matters financial and business advice. Involvement over many years throughout the whole wine arena from that stone clearance in deep ripped vineyards, to sales in retail, wholesale, hospitality and export; to trips and tastings through Europe and Asia; to banker wrangling; to cellar door sales and even making pizzas and B & B beds - has given Jan a humility born from the hard graft of a complex business. And Jan has seen it all – including the destruction of her entire Woodside vineyard in the 2021 Adelaide Hills fires. “The fire…was the greatest shock and knock down at the time, it tested us all and brought all of us closer together at the same time. From the local community to my staff and friends; wine industry associates, to the amazing customers who purchased wine to support us and help us work through the devastation. Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022 W I N E S TAT E 31

32 W I N E S TAT E W ine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022

“We now are working at being as positive as we can be and using all The combination of fire the skills our agricultural upbringing has taught us. We never assume and pandemic has shown our anything, never give up, are never complacent and never take the little Barristers Block team to be things for granted. creative and passionate; strong, resilient and determined to be “The combination of fire and pandemic has shown our Barristers Block bigger and better in every way team to be creative and passionate; strong, resilient and determined to we can. We’ve looked through be bigger and better in every way we can. We’ve looked through to a shining future! to a shining future! “Finally, it’s important to us the Barristers Block vineyards are managed on minimal intervention principles. This means there is minimum irrigation, a preference for natural pest control and fertilisers over chemical solutions. We run sheep through the vines during winter and early spring. We believe caring for the soil, building up the organic matter and fertilising naturally, yields more resilient vines, producing better tasting fruit for wine. The wines themselves are vegan - not processed with fish or animal products as is often the case in the industry.” When asked to describe herself in wine terms, Jan’s reply was “…zesty and lively, with great fruit characters, lengthy palate, with a memorable finish!” A little like her current favourite Barristers Block wine - the ’21 Aston Fiano. Or of course, maybe the Barristers Block hero wine - 2016 JP Shiraz. Or then it might be the ‘21 Sparkling Blush from the Poetic Justice Range – a superb entry level wine. It’s a bit like asking a person to nominate their favourite child…there is no definitive answer. Finally, Jan nailed it – the Wrattonbully 2019 Sparkling Shiraz. “This wine speaks a lot for me – it comes from the region where my love of wine was born, it reminds me of the interesting phases I have gone through in my life. It’s gutsy but elegant, intense but vibrant. The grapes from Wrattonbully have not only produced numerous award-winning wines, but it also validated my belief in the region, when they were included in the blend for the 2004 celebrated Jimmy Watson Trophy winner. The ‘Bully’ Shiraz also reminds me of my achievements as a single mum to Lachlan and James – giving them an appreciation for the land and hard work, of the importance of family and the importance to care, share and celebrate friends and family.” ‘Force of nature’ is another term that springs to mind when describing Siemelink-Allen. Determined to forge her way in one of the most competitive industries in Australia is not an easy task, nor is Jan a push-over, as many who have stood in the way ultimately understood. Including the barrister’s involved in that original legal battle. Website: www.barristersblock.com.au Instagram: @barristersblockwines Telephone: (08) 8389 7706 Previous page 30: The team at Barristers Block, deer in the Barristers Block vineyard. Previous page 31 top to bottom: Barristers Block vineyard, guests at Barristers Block restaurant interior, the Barristers Block team. Opposite page: Barristers Block vineyard, the team walkking through the vinyard and award winning Barristers Block Poetic Justice Legally Red Sparkling Shiraz 2019. This page: Exterior of Barristers Block, platter from Barristers Block restaurant. Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022 W I N E S TAT E 33

34 W I N E S TAT E W ine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022

WILD AT HEART what started with growing grapes has now turned into a wild game NIGEL HOPKINS NO, Wild Game doesn’t mean big game. More like small game, rather like “We searched for a name and in the end it just came down to Guy being the winery itself and the little critters that adorn its labels, such as ducks, a big fan of John Wayne, who’d probably never had a glass of wine in deer, pheasants and fish. his life,” Mary says. Steadily other wines and labels followed – The Dame Shiraz with a pheasant on the label, The Duchess Riesling with silver But Wild Game Wine is growing fast with a recent major vineyard perch, The Countess Sparkling Pinot Gris with deer. acquisition to add to the five- and seven-hectare vineyards on owners Mary and Guy Stratford’s farm on the north-eastern corner of the Coonawarra The two white wines are sourced from Wild Game’s latest acquisition, a wine region. With its large natural swamp and flanked by forest and national 30ha vineyard an hour’s drive from their home further south, closer to Mt park, a plentiful array of wild game also consider the farm home. Gambier. It marks a radical expansion for Wild Game. Mary and Guy between them have more than 50 years’ experience in “We’d been involved in its management over the years, and we knew its the viticulture industry, Mary as a freelance viticulturist and Guy as an fruit was the most amazing quality, so when its owners asked us a year agricultural management consultant. The farm and its two vineyards they ago if we’d like to buy it, it seemed too good an opportunity to pass up.” now own were ones that they at first managed, then leased and finally bought from renowned Coonawarra winemaker Peter Douglas a few The cool climate vineyard has 10ha plantings each of pinot noir and years ago. It was Douglas who’d planted those vineyards with cabernet sauvignon blanc, 5ha of chardonnay, and the remainder riesling and sauvignon and shiraz in the late 80's and early 90's. pinot gris. “At first we sold most of the grapes but kept some and made wine for “This is a region that’s really gaining traction,” Mary says. “There’s a ourselves, friends and family,” Mary explains. “Then, in 2012 when we had really high demand for its fruit so most of it will be sold for now. Currently some of the best cabernet we’d ever grown, the grape prices we were we’re producing up to 500 cases of each of our four grape varieties, but offered were so insulting, as it was across the industry, that we decided our plan is for slow and certain growth.” to ask our good friend Peter Douglas to process it into wine. The results were even better than we’d hoped for and we decided it was worth putting Wild Game’s promise is already being realised, with its The Duchess a label on it.” Riesling scoring 97 points from Winestate’s judges. Thus, Wild Game Wine was born with its first cabernet release The Duke. Having the hugely experienced Peter Douglas on board as consultant Putting ducks on the label was an easy choice, given they were such a winemaker has been an enormous advantage for Wild Game. Douglas, prominent part of the local wild game, but The Duke? sometimes referred to as “Coonawarra's master of Cabernet” and a former chief winemaker at Wynns Coonawarra Estate, makes the wine at DiGiorgio Family Wines in Coonawarra, where he is also the winemaker. Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022 W I N E S TAT E 35

Another significant factor underpinning Wild Game Wine’s success is They purchase specific biological products and bacteria that they brew Mary’s two decades of viticultural experience that has created a passion up and deliver via Wild Game’s “beneficial bug cart”. Their botrytis spray, for biological farming. This has led her to find innovative and cost-effective for example, also contains calcium, phosphorous, silicon and boron plus biological solutions using bacteria to deal with pests and diseases such a special fungus. She says it’s been a process of trial and error rather as snails and botrytis, and protecting vines from frost damage. than rigid scientific research, but the results have been both proven and cheaper than conventional chemical solutions. It was the damaging frosts of the 2006-7 vintage that started Mary on the biological path when she studied the worst hit vineyards and found they Wild Game’s wines are still mostly sold either online or through the cellar all had in common the use of an organic spray that contained a specific door they’ve opened in Naracoorte, adjacent to the Naracoorte Art Gallery bacteria that encourage frost damage. Her task then was to find a bacteria in a converted horse stable. A limited number of specialist wine cellars in that neutralised the harmful bacteria. Adelaide and Melbourne also stock Wild Game wines. “Everything we do is to encourage beneficial microbes in the soil and on Previous page: Wild Game bottles and glasses of wine. the vines,” she says. “Farming organically is more about what you can’t This page: Selection of Wild Game bottles of wine. use, but biological or regenerative farming is more about working with Opposite page top to bottom: Wild Game Land Rover, winemaker Peter Douglas with wine barrels, nature to keep the vines and soil in balance.” entrance to the Wild Game cellar door and Mary and Guy Stratford in the vineyard. 36 W I N E S TAT E W ine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022

This is a region that’s really gaining traction,” Mary says. “There’s a really high demand for its fruit so most of it will be sold for now. Currently we’re producing up to 500 cases of each of our four grape varieties, but our plan is for slow and certain growth. Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022 W I N E S TAT E 37

Playing Amongst The Angels 38 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022

The magic and mystery of Maison Deutz BJÖRNSTIERNE ANTONSON MY first meeting will be with the timid and elegant Jean-Marc Lallier-Deutz is as rare a man as the parents arranged weekly dinners with renowned Jean-Marc Lallier-Deutz. He is ready and stands out champagne that his label carries. He breathes Aÿ artists, businessmen, and journalists from around in the yard by the famous angel statue that adorns throughout. He was actually born in a car outside Aÿ the world. The mood was high, and it was notable Amour de Deutz’s labels when I drive in through and raised in the Champagne soil just like the famous that the guests loved to share a moment with the the magnificent gate in the heart of the medieval champagne houses he represents. He grew up on the family in their private sphere. Every occasion was city Aÿ. With a firm handshake and subsequent estate and has had the famous entertainment rooms worth celebrating. His dad told Jean-Marc that the Nordic hug, he greets me and welcomes me into as living rooms. He relates that the production rhythm founder, William Deutz, acted in the exact same way the house where he grew up. always steered his upbringing, and he stresses that back in the 1800s, and it is a tradition Jean-Marc the life cycle of wine and vines still rules his calendar. shares with his customers and friends today. When We walk through the small dining room adorned with When I ask him how he was as a child, Jean-Marc the guests moved to the living room, the brothers, stunning Romantic art that once hung at shows in the responds that he was shy, but very curious and dressed in pajamas, tiptoed into the dining room Musée d’Orsay in Paris. I am immediately reminded of attentive. “If I wanted to do stupid things, I did so with and smelled the half-empty glasses, unaware of the all the times when we drank magic magnum bottles my older brother, who likes to take risks. None of us precious drops that they had in front of them. Jean- from the 1970s together. With brisk steps, we go up liked the office—it was the cellar that attracted us. We Marc clearly remembers that at the age of five, he told the rickety and curving staircase and walk through the loved to taste the grape must, hide from the workers his astonished father that champagne was not good, two living rooms, which look like they could have been in the cellars, and play hide-and-seek down there.” but the aromas began to fascinate him more and used in Sofia Coppola’s film about Marie Antoinette. more with age. Jean-Marc also had an early interest Finally, we end up in the fairylike flower garden. We But the highlight was probably seeing the bottles in biology and physics, but they did not speak about walk by some yellow roses, and we stop to smell. He disgorged by hand. Jean-Marc has very clear scent this. The Deutz baton would be passed on to him. bursts into a smile and sits down in one of the beautiful, memories from his childhood, molded by wine but a bit uncomfortable, outdoor chairs from the production: earthy, yeasty, floral, and fruity. Nowadays, His philosophy for his beloved house Deutz is an 1800s. He starts a little hesitantly to talk about himself, his favourite scents are nuts, honey, vanilla, a uncompromising obsession with quality and a place but quickly warms up. Vivid and crisp with a gentle generous warm and friendly atmosphere, and the where innovative solutions are welcomed as long as voice, he talks about his childhood and his present- healthier scents of grapefruit, apricot, and peach. you are true to his style and his roots. Together with day life. Between anecdotes, he fixes his wavy fringe Fabrice Rosset, he steers the style of the house toward before taking new air to beautifully and committedly Throughout his childhood, a gastronomic lifestyle perfection, and together they are on track to succeed. deliver the next episode of his life. was prominent. In the 1970s, his father’s promotional They have incredibly strong friendships with the top events were mixed with the family’s private life. His Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022 W I N E S TAT E 39

“We loved to taste the growers in the grand cru and premier cru villages, grape must, hide from and I can myself testify to the pride the growers feel the workers in the as they deliver their grapes to Deutz. Jean-Marc adds cellars, and play hide- that although all wines are cuvées, a great importance and-seek down there.” should be placed on preserving the terroir character. Personally, I am extremely fond of the way Aÿ works 40 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022 with all the pinot-dominated blends and how beautiful the blanc de blancs, Le Mesnil, tastes as the leading tone of the house. Today, he lives with his wife—who happily enough is also in the wine business—and a bundle of energy for a daughter in Reims with a magnificent sacred view of Champagne’s biggest icon, the gigantic cathedral. When he is not in Aÿ, or travelling around the world as a champagne ambassador, he retires to the natural tranquility of the summer house in the forest between Aÿ and Reims. On holidays, they often visit relatives in Bretagne. Jean-Marc is a happy family-loving man who always breathes optimism and opportunities in a very subtle yet generous and enthusiastic way. He has been drinking champagne with many greats all over the world, but he still dreams of having a glass of Amour de Deutz with Madonna and getting to hear her tell him why it is her favourite. Finally, I manage to squeeze out the answer to the most difficult question. Which champagnes are your favourites, besides your own? It turns out he is a pure “terroirist” and loves pure grand cru champagnes from skilled growers like Ledru in Ambonnay, Franck Bonville in Avize, and Pierre Peters in Le Mesnil. I think it’s the first time I have been to Deutz without drinking a single drop, and I have to admit my mouth waters when I meet CEO Fabrice Rosset with a bottle of Cuvée William Deutz under his arm just as I am getting in the car to head to the other side of the Marne River, to the heart of Épernay. Previous Pages: Angel statue in front of Maison Deutz exterior, Maison Deutz vineyards and a selection of Maison Deutz Champagne. This page top to bottom left to right: Fabrice Rosset, exterior entrance to Maison Deutz, Maison Deutz vineyard, cellar of Maison Deutz, bottles in the cellar, packaging and bottle of Amour Deutz Brut 2011.

perthgrapevine BERLINDA CONTI PERTH trailblazer, Andy Freeman along with his head chef, Charlie Vargas, its discerning vibe of has designed a colourful wine list of local and Sneakers & Jeans (S&J) collective, has teamed linen-dressed tables and a curated wine list of over interstate finds along with some interesting up with South Australian brewing company, Pirate 120 local and international styles complements European varieties, while mixologist, Eoin Kenny Life (founded by West Aussies Michael Cameron, seasonal dishes influenced by a bespoke custom- has whipped up a cocktail list worth exploring, if Jack Cameron, and Jared Proudfoot), to open made parrilla woodfired grill. The grain-fed Black not for the Hibiscus & Ginger Sour – a euphoric Perth’s newest brewpub in the heart of the city – Onyx tomahawk, cooked to perfection over jarrah mix of Ketel One vodka, hibiscus, ginger, honey Pirate Life Perth. and banksia, is rather heavenly paired with Toma’s and lemon, or, for the virtuous among us, try the garlic and thyme roasted potatoes, wood-roasted non-alcoholic turmeric and mango lassi. Located at the old Sony building on Murray carrots and “beefsteak” tomatoes. Street, the three-storey, 1000-capacity venue – Servo, 9 Electric Lane, Leederville. Phone: (08) (the first basement brewery in the city) - includes There are equally moreish bar snacks and lighter 9202 8288. Open: Wednesday – Sunday, 11.30am the best of Pirate Life’s popular beers, alongside nibbles which go down a treat with a chilled chardie – late (Fridays & Saturdays to midnight). custom-designed Perth-exclusives, all brewed on (or give the stellar cocktail list a nudge). site with a nod to local flavours. Dustin and Martin Michael, the two brothers Freeman says S&J and Pirate Life will deliver a new from Toodyay who created Funk Cider House in the Spreading the love across Freeman’s Sneakers standard in Perth hospitality, with the dramatic interior Swan Valley, have recently opened their second & Jeans stable – American whiskey bar, Varnish design overseen by Stickman Tribe’s Perth-born venue in Henley Brook, aptly called, Funk 2.0. on King; Middle-Eastern-inspired rooftop haunt, founder, Marcos Cain. Hadiqa; eccentric Mexican hang-out, Caballitos As the name suggests, Funk 2.0 is all about and gin mecca, The Flour Factory – means these Pirate Life Perth, 440 Murray Street Perth. Phone: honouring preservative free, unpasteurised cider too are enjoying the brewpub’s liquid gold on tap. 1800 7632 5377. Open: Tues – Sat, 11am – late. (made from cold pressed apple juice) which is vegan friendly, free from sulphites, concentrates Art murals and installs from local artists adorn Leederville has enjoyed a thorough metamorphosis and gluten, and no added sugar. the walls, with former Adelaide-based artist Mike of late, and the once underused, and recently Maka, creating the pièce de resistance – an rebranded ‘Electric Lane’, just off Oxford Street, The bar, fitted with WA’s longest beer tap, offers impressive peacock suspended in the main bar; has been anointed by FJM Property (the creators a quirky selection of around 18 ciders, hybrids, an affectionate ode to the iconic peacock mural at behind State Buildings) as part of its Leederville saisons and beers, along with experimental Pirate Life’s flagship Port Adelaide venue. Redevelopment initiative – a multi-venue food, drink limited-edition flavours, on tap. and entertainment precinct generated by the iconic Freeman’s signature trademark as a “come-one- Leederville Hotel. Their Sex Machine cider sounds fun - appley come-all” kinda-venue has it masquerading as a tones with hints of vanilla and smoky French oak, chameleon of sorts. One of the lane’s first venues to pop up earlier last rounded off by a pop of natural sweetness – a spring was Servo, an all-day diner, with an adjoining perfect match with the blue cheese stuffed chicken Described as the most significant investment for the food-truck-inspired kebab kiosk (Servo Kebab) - breast with buffalo butter, fennel and celery collective, the venue includes three bars (inclusive designed to feed late night revellers in need of soaking remoulade, or a pile of braised and pulled duck of a 15-metre main bar, plus a basement bar), two up their sins via pita-wrapped goodness – plus a waffles with a side of plum sauce. kitchens, two exclusive private dining rooms (TANK sunny alfresco - Servo Yard Bar. and The Mezz), a restaurant and boardrooms. Hearty and sophisticated pub grub designed Seasoned chef Michael Antonievich, along with by chef Cole Hall, complements the beverage list TOMA is its casual fine-dining offering. Led by executive chef, Damien Young and Jessie Blake, are (including ‘Funk’ wine), with gluten free, vegan and responsible for Servo’s main menu which is intended vegetarian options also in abundance. to be shared affair; a cacophony of cross-pollination and quirky flavours that work. Bring the kids, the dog and plenty of sunscreen. Funk 2.0, 38 Swan Street, Henley Brook 6055. Who’d have thunk, rigatoni tikka masala with buffalo Bookings: (08) 9377 4884. Open: Sun, Mon & ricotta, cheese steak carpaccio or crème ‘black rice’ Thurs 11am – 5pm; Fri & Sat 11am – 9pm. brulee with rhubarb would be a thing? Top left: Exterior of FUNK 2.0. Yoghurt fried chicken, barbecued fish and Bottom left: Exterior of FUNK 2.0. chips with wasabi butter and house chips with Above: Tasting Paddle at FUNK 2.0. chickpea aioli, indicate the menu’s deep dive into experimental nirvana. Alternatively, try the “Feed Me” option ($55 per person) – a banquet of chef’s personal picks from the menu. Wine guru and sommelier, Emma Farrelly Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022 W I N E S TAT E 41

adelaidegrapevine NIGEL HOPKINS WHAT was once a humble beach café known as chicken and pomegranate salad or fish tacos. Eatery, 303 The Parade, Beulah Park. Open for Joe’s Kiosk, that started life some 25 years ago There’s a very contemporary wine list for lunchtime lunch Thursday to Sunday, dinner Wednesday to as an ice cream and drinks shop, has taken on a diners, making this as good a seaside dining Sunday. Phone (08) 8133 5952. new life since it was purchased in 2018 by Cibo experience as you’ll find on Adelaide’s coast. Espresso founder Roberto Cardone and business One of the best places in Adelaide for a gin and partner Mark Balnaves. Joe’s Henley Beach, Esplanade, Henley Beach. tonic or cold ale on a hot summer’s day is the Open for breakfast and lunch seven days, dinner balcony of the Scenic Hotel, at Norton Summit Over the first 22 years of its life, the council- Friday to Sunday. Phone (08) 8235 0111. in the Adelaide Hills. Like the two establishments owned property run by Joe Weber became a mentioned above, it’s an old venue that’s been favourite haunt for bohemian locals, celebrities, A kitchen fire put paid to the once thriving taken over by a new, young and well experienced Adelaide politicians and early morning joggers Lebanese café Saha, on the eastern reaches of crew who have transformed the place. and swimmers. But it remained nothing more than Norwood’s Parade, resulting in its moving to new a kiosk with good coffee. premises still in the region and not so far away. If Unlike some revamped Hills hotels, the makeover Under its new owners, now joined by former that caused disappointment for the locals it’s been here has been plain and simple, with the focus on publican Hugo Pedler as partner and manager, short-lived, because in its place has come one of friendly service, good food and interesting drinks it’s undergone a total transformation, both in overall the city’s most stylish wine bars Lune Bar & Eatery. – with a firm interest in smaller boutique wineries. style, comfort and especially its food – now in the And, of course, no pokies. hands of former Jordanian royal family chef Krish What was a fairly unimposing double shopfront Dutt. The name, too, has changed – it’s now Joe’s has been completely transformed by a posse of The menu does a basic nod to conventional Henley Beach. partners, all experienced in fine hospitality, led pub fare – though the schnitzel is kangaroo by chef Sam Worrall-Thompson who takes the with mash and pepper sauce and a fish burger Its west-facing picture windows are as close to the “eatery” bit seriously with a menu of wonderfully comes with cos lettuce, chilli and shallots. sea as can possibly be, like a white and blue beach tempting dishes. No simple bar snacks here. There’s fun with a steak tartare served with a house hanging over the sand, blue banquettes and packet of Smith’s crisps, and serious happiness white bentwood chairs add to the picture, making it The former bright, airy interior is split into two in a roast half chicken with both bread sauce perfect for enjoying the new weekend sunset dinner sections: the entrance opens to a bar and terrazzo- and chicken sauce. series launched in October last year. topped high table, while next door is kitted out in more conventional restaurant style, where it The locals are very pleased and try to understand The fixed price “feed me” menu features local definitely feels more restaurant than bar – though they must now share the place with city types. seafood including Coffin Bay oysters, perhaps the wine list is clearly taken seriously (given that with a lemon and shallot mignonette, Port Lincoln one of the partners is also a winemaker). Scenic Hotel, Norton Summit. Open for lunch cockle pasta and grilled snapper fillet with pickled Thursday to Sunday, dinner Wednesday to fennel, finishing up with Joe’s affogato. Worrall-Thompson’s menu is a fast-changing Saturday. Phone (08) 7320 1610. parade that starts with a series of small snacks But for most day-to-day diners – Joe’s is open – try grilled Japanese scallops, crisp celeriac Top left: Interior of Joe's Henley Beach. daily – it’s the breakfast and lunch menus that Above: Exterior of Joe's Henley Beach. will appeal with breakfast classics such as eggs and tilsit croquettes or Bottom left: Lune selection of dishes. benedict or smashed avocado with poached egg, barramundi soldiers Joe’s signature King George whiting with chips and with shellfish mayo. salad at lunch, along with dishes such as crispy Slightly larger dishes bring you to dishes such as cacio e pepe orecchiette with truffle, pecorino and black pepper, or brussel sprouts with lap cheong, cauliflower and fried lentils. Among the larger dishes still, the barbecued squid with chilli sambal and burnt lemon is a standout. Lune Bar & 42 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022

sydneygrapevine ELISABETH KING LEGENDARY has become a very over-used words Cantonese signature roasted burnished wood tables and an eye-catching mural these days. But its usage is sometimes justified. duck. If I have ever eaten a with a message - No-Thing Lasts Forever - to add to Dave Chang, founder of the Momofuku Group and more meaty and flavourful the laidback feel. Cocktail favourites include Pavlova creator of the Netflix series Ugly Delicious, called duck, I can't remember Milk Punch and the Rocky Road Old-Fashioned the XO pippies at the Golden Century, Sydney's when. Other trips down the or cool down with a frozen Irish Coffee or a Frosty longstanding Cantonese stalwart, \"the best dish in culinary memory lane include Fruit-inspired slushie. Ponsford and Hickey curate the world\". Leung Yung, the restaurant's former chef, compoy white cut chicken, the spirits list, while Ponsford and Oscar oversee the invented the inspired coupling in 1990, combining Mongolian lamb hotpot and constantly changing wine and beer offerings. just-steamed pippie clams with a thick XO chilli sauce. three cup sauce beef, which were all doing brisk business Chef Benji Llewellyn from The Roosevelt has The original Golden Century closed its doors last as we scanned the room. given a retro spin to the menu by focusing on pork year, but XO pippies is still the most ordered dish at Darling Square is the epicentre of Sydney's hip and lamb from family farms roasted over an open fire XOPP by Golden Century named in its honour. Chinese community and several smartly dressed and served on share plates or in a damper roll from St Launched two years ago, the restaurant wraps around diners were ordering from the Modern Twist listings Malo bakery. Housemade French onion dip with Jatz the mezzanine floor of Kengo Kuma's dramatic such as 300g wagyu MBS sirloin with garlic cream, crackers and Viennetta ice-cream for dessert echo the Exchange Building in Darling Square. The 160-seat wasabi beef cubes and seven flavours cumin lamb current trend for 90s fashions, TV shows and music. venue boasts a stylish cocktail bar, an atomic art chops. Or the XOPP OmniMeats vegan menu centred installation by Sydney artist Nike Savvas and tables by stuffed salt and pepper tofu, mapo tofu and hot About Time, 37 Bligh Street, Sydney. Phone: 0434 pop with colour via green celadon bowls and orange and sour soup. 661 028. chopsticks. The feel is very upmarket Hong Kong yet The Golden Century Group has long been lauded relaxed and welcoming. for its 28-page wine and drinks list. We couldn't go The Love Tilly Group operates Tilly Devine, Dear past the 2017 Henschke Golden Century Private Sainte Eloise, Ragazzi Wine and Pasta and Fabbrica. We visited soon after the Sydney lockdown lifted Collection Riesling at a very reasonable $12 per glass. For wine lovers the four bars and restaurants translate and XOPP was well-peopled and humming. We The champagnes on offer reach a pinnacle with Krug as meccas for Australian natural, French and Italian didn't have to ask proprietor Billy Wong whether Grande Cuvee and a 2009 Dom Perignon. French wines. Matt Swieboda and Nate Hatwell, the fans of the Golden Century had flooded back but wines are a highlight from the 2015 Louis Latour co-owners, have teamed with The People, a new he confirmed the educated guess. People have so Puligny-Montrachet to the more democratically priced hospitality group responsible for the renos of the many memories, traditions and stories about dining 2015 Domaine Jaffelin Chablis. Or scroll through Strand and Norfolk pubs in Darlinghurst and Redfern, at Golden Century and we want XOPP to be a place some of the best Australian and New Zealand wines, to open La Salut. where more memories are created and shared, he backed by equally premium bottlings from the US, noted. As if on cue, two renditions of Happy Birthday South Africa, Argentina, Spain, Italy and more. The Named after the Barcelona suburb, the 40-seat to You rang out from nearby tables. cocktails are a standout, too. bar is located in the Norfolk's erstwhile sports bar. Billy Wong insisted that we try two of the new Tapas dominate the menu from pork neck pincho The menu targets established and new customers desserts. How right he was. Out came an intensely with whipped cod roe through San Simon and oyster and is split between classic Cantonese specialities fruity watermelon granita with strawberry and yuzu croquettes, dry-aged rib-eye with capers and garum and modern takes on traditional flavours and custard and a rich-as chocolate mousse ice-cream. and quail, morcilla crumb and radish. Over 200 wines ingredients. Yum cha fans can sate their tastebuds Billy's parents, Linda and Eric Wong, the founders of centre on Spanish bottlings, which range from Marco on offerings such as prawn mini mantou with XOPP Golden Century, arrived for a late dinner and you can't de Jerez fortified wines to vermouths, the aperitif of mayonnaise and sauce and scallop and edamame get a higher recommendation than that. Barcelona, and top quality cavas. There's a strong san choy bow. Live seafood was one of the major XOPP by Golden Century, 1 Little Pier Street, focus on natural wines and you can work your way drawcards at Golden Century for over 30 years and Haymarket. Phone: (02) 8030 0000. through the main Spanish wine regions from the the tradition continues at XOPP by strong public We're here for a good time not a long time is the Basque country to the Mediterranean. A smash hit demand. Choose your cooking style for whole live guiding spirit of About Time. A pop-up bar on the from day one, it's best to book ahead rather than baby abalone or rock lobster from South Australia or corner of Hunter and Bligh Streets in the CBD, the wing it as a walk-in. Tasmania - from steaming with ginger and shallots to relaxed and chic venue will occupy the premises teaming with garlic sauce and egg noodles. until the end of 2022 before the construction of the La Salut, 305 Cleveland Street, Redfern. Phone: new Hunter Street Station begins. There's certainly a 0412 872 855. We tilted towards the contemporary interpretations lot of experience behind the cool vibe, which is the with king prawns stir-fried in foie gras sauce. brainchild of seven hospo veterans - Ben Hickey Top left: Food from XOPP by Golden Century. Big, juicy and crisp, the serving size was very and Naomi Palmer, the owners of The Roosevelt, Bottom right: Interior of XOPP restaurant. generous. Sometimes you just want comfort food, Steve Davis, the venue manager of the Opera Bar, so we selected the sichuan sweet chilli chicken and Tom Price of The Baxter Inn, Jono Carr, the award- winning barman, Paul Oscar, ambassador at Stone & Wood and wine expert Shannon Ponsford. About Time is in good company with close neighbours such as Restaurant Hubert, Spice Temple and the popular Frankie's Pizza. But it has something they don't - an outside al fresco drinking and dining space. The interior is all pastel banquettes, Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022 W I N E S TAT E 43

hong konggrapevine LUCY JENKINS The initiative kicks off Chinese Master Chef, Kwong Wai Keung, with the Roganic x Whey x who has been in T’ang Court since it opened Ando x Grassroots Initiatives in 1988, and Executive Chef, Wong Chi Fai, lunch, followed by a Zero who has been with the restaurant for nearly two Waste Cocktail Dinner with decades have jointly led the team in maintaining Darkside and a finale dinner the highest culinary standards and making celebration of Local Heroes T’ang Court one of Hong Kong’s most iconic to wrap up the month. restaurants. Roganic, Sino Plaza, UG/F T’ang Court, The Langham, 8 Peking Road, 08, 255 Gloucester Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui. Phone: +852 2132 7898. Causeway Bay. Phone: +852 2817 8383. Top right: Vicky Lau Tate Dining Room. French-inspired Hollywood Middle left: Interior of T'ang Court restaurant. favourite, Tate Dining Room Below: Interior of Roganic restaurant. not only received its second AS 2021 draws to a close and Hong Kongers Michelin star this year but also crowned owner are resigned to staying put due to the current and chef Vicky Lau as the only female chef in quarantine measures in place (mandatory two Asia to be awarded two Michelin stars. or three weeks of quarantine in a designated A former graphic designer who switched mid- hotel at personal expense at the time of writing), career to train as a chef, Vicky Lau opened Tate we look back over one of the most challenging in 2012 and it’s still going strong today, with an years for the F&B industry and a few of its eight-course French Cantonese fusion menu success stories. called ‘Edible Stories’. Vicky also won ‘Best Female Chef in Asia’ in The 2021 Michelin Star Awards was announced 2015 and is seen as a shining light for other in January and revealed seven three-star female chefs who are often overlooked in this restaurants, 12 two-star restaurants and 50 one- part of the world. star restaurants. This year also included the new Tate Dining Room, 210 Hollywood Road, ‘Green star’ category, highlighting restaurants Sheung Wan. Phone: + 852 2555 2172. using sustainable practices. Winning its third Michelin star for the six year, Winner of the Green star award and already T’ang Court, the Cantonese flagship restaurant holding a Michelin star, Roganic opened in early at The Langham Hotel is one of Hong Kong’s 2019 by restaurateur and chef Simon Rogan success stories, especially since hotels have and serves top-notch British fare with superb been closed on and off for most of 2020 and local ingredients. 2021 and some have been converted into government quarantine hotels. Rogan is known for his two-Michelin-starred Offering a fine selection of authentic Cantonese restaurant L’Enclume in Cartmel in the Lake delicacies, T’ang Court has been a Michelin- District, which won Best Restaurant in Britain starred restaurant since 2009 when the guide for four consecutive years. In October, it first launched in Hong Kong and Macau and announced a ‘Friends with Sustainability’ series has retained its three Michelin-starred status to join forces with the city’s hospitality leaders since 2016. and raise awareness of sustainable practices in restaurants. 44 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022

Special Awards Feature 2021 Featuring the winners and placegetters for each varietal category tasted throughout the year. Plus profiles of the Australian and New Zealand winemaker and wine company of the year. Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022 W I N E S TAT E 45

W I N E S TAT E - W I N E O F T H E Y E A R AWA R D S 2 0 2 1 THE JUDGING ONCE again this year we are pleased to bring mark. With rare exceptions New Zealand wins you the results of our trophy judging for 2021. the sauvignon blanc category, as they did again BEST OF THE BEST Throughout the year we conducted numerous this year. Ditto for merlot, where it seems there tastings across a variety of criteria; regional was a better choice of clones in early plantings. *All technical details for the Wine of the Year tastings, new release tastings and what we call Chardonnay has had mixed results over the years Special Feature are supplied directly from each style tastings, where we review a particular varietal with New Zealand veering towards more sugar a winery. (like chardonnay) or a particular style (like fortifieds, few years ago but lately on track with the complex sweet whites or alternative & emerging varieties). drier styles (and winning our overall Wine of the These mini wine show style judgings add up to a Year this year). Also, sweet whites are a toss- up massive total by the end of the year. between the countries, this year going the Kiwis way. It was surprising to lose the pinot gris/grigio At the end of the year we request samples of all mantle which like sauvignon blanc, has been a the wines that achieved a five or four-and-a-half staple in New Zealand. star rating (97 or 98 points – gold or high silver standard). The reason we include four-and-a-half For Australia there are the regulars and some star wines as well as five is because wine judging surprises. Each year we are not at all surprised is an art, not a science and we want to cast the net to see the top riesling come from Clare Valley, wide enough to include all trophy prospects. Wine the sparkling from Tasmania (with some stiff can also develop over the course of a year in bottle, competition from Marlborough), the shiraz from sometimes for the better and sometimes falling McLaren Vale and the grenache and cabernet away. This has proven right again and again with from the Barossa. Perennial winner of the semillon a few four-and-a-half star wines making it into our category, Shoalhaven Coast’s Coolangatta Estate Top Five category list or even sometimes winning must be approaching legendary status – an their respective categories. incredibly consistent example of style from this amazing winery. Adelaide Hills also performed Since 1978 we have not varied in using the three- well with the best pinot gris/grigio and pinot noir. person panel wine show system as practiced by What was surprising was the Riverland result for the national wine shows and many regional shows. best fortified from 919 wines and fortified master, Like these shows all wines are judged blind in Eric Semmler. This has been the lock of Rutherglen anonymous glasses the only difference is that we previously. spread our judgings over the year rather than in one dedicated show. We also report and describe Congratulations to all the category winners and all recommended wines in this magazine to give placegetters and many thanks for all the wineries more detail to the results and more promotion for who entered their wines. Never fear they are all the wineries involved. included as a summary listing in this issue under the state or style classifications. This year we were pleased to have an expert panel including regular senior judge Dave We are greatly appreciative of all the expert Matthews from Classic Oak, long time legendary judges who gave their valuable time throughout former Treasury winemaker Matt O’Leary and the year along with the wineries who bravely put AWRI Senior Sensory Scientist Richard Gawell. “their babies” forward for evaluation. And of course, I acted as the Chair, but more appropriately the we thank our sponsors who help give us a leg up interpreter. Judging continued over three days during the year to make it happen. with great synergy from the judges and very little disagreement over the category winners and none And finally, to all the trade partnerships and over the Grand Champion and Australia and New our readership audience we greatly value your Zealand country winners. attention and participation. It is great to have this Trans-Tasman wine rivalry Here’s cheers to a positive and safe 2022 with an and I believe it keeps the winemakers of both even more impressive array of wines. countries on their toes. We often have comments from our judges that it is great to have their wines Cheers! matched against their peers. Peter Simic On average, of the seventeen categories Editor/Publisher involved, New Zealand wins four with a good smattering of placegetters and Australia wins the rest. This year it was pretty much around the 46 W I N E S TAT E Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022

CHAIRMAN’S THE CLASSES COMMENTS IN BRIEF JUDGES SPARKLING Peter Simic Dave Matthews Matt O’Leary Richard Gawel Structurally classy wines with great lees complexity, acid balance and mouthfeel. The top pointed Chair: CEO & Editor/ wine was a standout with additional intensity and Publisher, Winestate complexity. ROSÉ SHIRAZ ALTERNATIVE WHITE A nice line up with varying colours and styles, A massive line-up across three flights of quality A most interesting lineup of varietal fruit wines ranging from youthful soft red fruit styles to dry acid wines, which gave the judges a challenge. A range and others with significant winemaking influence. and tannin finished wines. Good to see most are of styles were on show here from the richer fruit Delicious at their best! The best wine here showed now in the drier spectrum. The best wine here was styles, some pulled back to give more elegance floral lifted fruit, with great length of flavour and a top example of line and length with Turkish delight and cool climate styles, some fuller than expected acid balance. flavours. Delicious! with more consideration given to flavour. It shows the great strength and consistency of shiraz as a RIESLING ALTERNATIVE RED varietal across diverse regions. The top wine had A good breadth of styles from these “beautiful A very mixed varietal group. They offer a great excellent mid-palate concentration, vibrant fruit and wines” said the judges. They had delicacy and spectrum of diverse varietal flavours ranging from balanced tannins with great length and persistence. purity, yet also depth of fruit. The top wine was very light and vibrant to rich, savoury and complex. clean and lively with a lovely palate of citrus depth Balance was the key for the judges. The winner was SWEET WHITE and balance. a bright, primary fruit style with red and blue fruits A small quality flight of varying styles and sweetness. and stylish tannins. Although mid weight it easily The winner was a classic aged traditional sweet style SAUVIGNON BLANC held its own in this big pack. with concentrated flavours without mawkishness, Great use of fruit here, with multi-dimensional with excellent acid balance overall. flavours; some with a touch of oak, others with fruit PINOT NOIR sweetness matched by balancing acid. The top wine The wines here ranged from light and fragrant to FORTIFIED had great concentration of fruit in the mid-palate richer deeper coloured styles from vastly different A wide range of different varietals in these luscious followed by a vibrant long aftertaste. Delicious! regions. The best had elegant, delicate yet lingering fortified wines, all of great quality and intensity. The characters with judicious use of oak. The top wine top wine was a classic aged, layered, complex PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO was a truly silky and perfumed elegant wine with muscat with the lot; multiple colours, vibrant sticky Mainly a group of pinot gris labelled wines made it seamless acid and oak balance. aroma, and concentrated luscious flavours. to this trophy tasting. These seemed a cut above the pinot grigio’s in this taste off. (All tasted blind.) MERLOT BEST VALUE BUY A number showed differing levels of sweetness with A small flight of merlots with the Kiwis in command This year we judged the best value wine from the the drier versions more balanced. The top wine had here. These show that the variety at its best can point of view of highest score achieved throughout true vibrant fruit intensity and length. produce soft fleshy mid palate wines rather than the year against price value. So the Nericon Riverina firm and lean fruit wines. The winning wine showed Durif 2018 $11.99 from Dee Vine Estate came out SEMILLON lovely tannins and chocolate fruit flavours with on top with lots of bang for your buck. It shows A strong class of lovely complex whites. A pleasure excellent balance. the quality that can be achieved from a rich warm to taste. These showed lovely green/gold colours climate with durif varietal fruit grown and made from the older wines with beautiful layered flavours GRENACHE under the right conditions that everyone can afford. offering purity and persistence. The top wine was A strong class with the judges focusing on grenache a superb example of an aged white with seamless predominant pure varietal fruit character wines. • Orora Glass • Classic Oak vibrancy and complexity in every mouthful. These are luscious fruit forward delicious wines. The • CastStone • Swiss-Belhotel top wine showed lovely fresh berry fruits and spice • Le Cordon Bleu • Henson Lloyd CHARDONNAY with balanced clean gritty tannins. • The Rees Hotel, • Hamburg Süd A superb flight of chardonnay varietal wines where • Wineworks the depth of unctuous varietal fruit is matched by CABERNET SAUVIGNON Queenstown • Northline Freight the winemaker’s craft. Of all white wines chardonnay A lovely mix of varietal examples here along with • William Angliss • DW Fox Tucker with its natural depth of fruit has the most advantage quality oak. The top five here excelled in this regard. • Luigi Bormioli • Travelrite for winemaker’s to work their art, and wines ranged The awarded wines tended to be vibrant mid-weight • Kewco from flinty and fine to creamy and textural. The top wines with excellent savoury balance, some ready • National Wine Centre wine had tremendous clarity and depth of flavour now, others requiring more cellaring. The top wine • SMEG and vibrancy, great line and length, with a finely showed great cabernet varietal character, fruit tuned oak balance. A worthy winner of our overall power and was true to regionality. wine of the year. Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022 W I N E S TAT E 47

NEW ZEALAND wine company of the year PERNOD RICARD WINEMAKERS NZ “In 2010, Pernod Ricard NZ decided to streamline its portfolio and focus on three major brands – Brancott Estate (formerly Montana), Stoneleigh and Church Road.” MICHAEL COOPER ONE of the giants of the wine industry, Pernod Ricard New Zealand, In 2010, as part of its move to focus on the Brancott Estate, Church Road headquartered in Auckland, employs about 500 people in production and Stoneleigh brands, Pernod Ricard NZ sold some of its vineyards in and marketing. “Our winemaking teams are able to leverage the expertise Gisborne and Hawke's Bay, and its winery in Gisborne, to Indevin (which of colleagues across the globe, as well as their own experience as the in August 2021 also acquired Villa Maria, until then New Zealand’s largest, founders of the Marlborough wine region, to craft medal-winning wines fully family-owned wine company). Lion Nathan NZ, Indevin’s joint venture that are exported to more than 50 countries.” partner, also purchased 12 of Pernod Ricard NZ’s wine brands in 2010, notably Lindauer, a hugely popular range of sparkling wines. Owned by Pernod Ricard, the world’s second biggest wine and spirit company, the New Zealand company was known as Montana until 2004, Further production changes followed. In 2017, Pernod Ricard NZ closed then for two years as Allied Domecq Wines NZ. Launched in 1979, its winery in Napier (inherited from Corbans), shifting its operations to the Montana Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc had during the 1980s and 1990s nearby Church Road winery. In 2019, it also announced the impending introduced more overseas wine lovers to the delights of New Zealand closure of its Auckland production facility in East Tamaki, with the potential wine than any other. loss of 90 jobs. By acquiring its largest competitor, Corbans, in 2000, for NZ$151 million, Making money has not proved easy. In 2018, Pernod Ricard NZ’s holding Montana boosted its output of New Zealand wine by 70 per cent. Inevitably, company, Millstream Equities, reported a loss of NZ$182.4 million. In its international success attracted the interest of foreign buyers, and today 2019, it posted an annual net profit after tax of NZ$18 million, but the 2020 this huge wine producer is in French hands. financial year brought another loss of NZ$10.25 million. In 2010, Pernod Ricard NZ decided to streamline its portfolio and focus Appointed managing director of Pernod Ricard NZ in 2016, Kevin Mapson on three major brands – Brancott Estate (formerly Montana), Stoneleigh and is a Kiwi who joined Montana Wines in 1996. Before taking up the top job Church Road. The Montana brand was retained for the New Zealand market five years ago, Mapson was sales director for Pernod Ricard Australia, (and today the sub-$NZ10 Montana Sauvignon Blanc is an Australian wine, “achieving growth year on year for the business”. because Aussies can grow the grapes cheaper). However, the brand name Montana proved a stumbling block in the US, for obvious geographic So, what is the greatest challenge facing Mapson and Pernod Ricard NZ? reasons, and was replaced in 2010 by Brancott Estate (named after one “While there’s a lot of focus on brands and consumer behaviour,” he says, of the southern side valleys of Marlborough’s sweeping Wairau Valley). “the biggest challenge, and one that is often overlooked, is that wine is an agricultural business in a concentrated market. We have one vintage a So how did Pernod Ricard NZ win Winestate’s New Zealand Wine year which determines the quality and quantity of product available, and Company of the Year award? Church Road was the star performer, much of that is outside of our immediate control. We have to amend our scooping our prestigious award for top Australia and New Zealand strategy each year, based on the outcomes of the vintage.” Wine of the Year 2021 with Church Road Grand Reserve Hawke's Bay Chardonnay 2019. Sustainability has emerged as a key part of the team’s focus. “This includes extensive native tree plantings in and around our vineyards,” Church Road also had several other wines in the top five of the chardonnay, and the Kaituna Wetland restoration, a haven for native birds, insects and sauvignon blanc and pinot gris categories. It dominated the merlot category, aquatic species. “Through the Brancott Estate brand, we have sponsored by winning the Merlot of the Year award with Church Road Grand Reserve Marlborough Falcon Trust since 2010, contributing more than half a million Hawke's Bay Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, with two other wines placing dollars and access to our land for their rehabilitation and breeding aviary.” in the top five merlots. Furthermore, Deutz Prestige Marlborough Cuvée 2017 and Deutz Marlborough Cuvée NV, both from Pernod Ricard NZ, also placed And winning New Zealand Wine Company Of The Year proves they’re in the top five in the Sparkling of the Year category. on the right track. The Stoneleigh brand, launched in the mid-late 1980s, is also famous for FINALISTS Lawson's Dry Hills Marlborough sauvignon blanc. At last count, there were six versions on the Saint Clair Family Estate market. The very large-volume Stoneleigh Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Hunter's Wines NZ flows from the stony, relatively warm Rapaura area, on the north side of the Giesen Wairau Valley, which produces a ripely flavoured style of sauvignon blanc, yet retains good acidity and vigour. Other bottlings include Stoneleigh Latitude Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, designed as a ‘full-on style’ with ‘big aromatics’; Stoneleigh Lighter Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, ‘25 per cent lighter in alcohol’; Stoneleigh Organic Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc; Stoneleigh Wild Valley Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, fermented with indigenous rather than cultured yeasts; and Stoneleigh Rapaura Series Single Vineyard Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, labelled as ‘the absolute best of Stoneleigh’. 48 W I N E S TAT E W ine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022

NEW ZEALAND winemaker of the year CHRIS SCOTT, CHURCH ROAD “When he was still an undergraduate, Church Road approached Scott and other students, offering them employment over the summer holidays. “I worked the vineyard and the cellar door. The second summer they trusted me with a tractor, and the third I was asked to work the vintage.” MICHAEL COOPER THE names Church Road and Chris Scott are indivisible to many wine lovers, Alwyn Chardonnay and thinking - wow! I really got the bug, started reading, and it’s easy to see why – Scott has worked at the historic Hawke's Bay winery attended wine appreciation courses.” In 1999, he graduated from the Eastern since 1998. During his 16 years as head of the winemaking team, he has Institute of Technology, in Hawke's Bay, as a Bachelor of Wine Science. scooped Winestate’s New Zealand Winemaker of the Year award an amazing four times – in 2013, 2016, 2020 and now 2021. This year, as the icing on the When he was still an undergraduate, Church Road approached Scott and cake, Scott also crafted our overall top wine of the year from Australia and other students, offering them employment over the summer holidays. “I worked New Zealand – Church Road Grand Reserve Hawke's Bay Chardonnay 2019. the vineyard and the cellar door. The second summer they trusted me with a tractor, and the third I was asked to work the vintage.” Church Road is widely known for outstanding, often top value, chardonnays and merlot cabernet blends. Take chardonnay. The winery’s multi-tier range Scott’s mentor was Tony Prichard, now owner of De La Terre winery, in includes the ‘standard’, consistently satisfying, fully barrel-fermented wine, Hawke's Bay. “He had transformed the industry in 1991, when most of our Church Road Hawke's Bay Chardonnay (NZ$20 or less); the bolder, more winemaking expertise came from Australian universities, which were very complex Church Road McDonald Series Chardonnay (NZ$27); the powerful, technically focused. They’d analyse a wine in the lab and adjust it, based very rich Church Road Grand Reserve Chardonnay (NZ$40); the elegant, on the numbers. Church Road invited experts from Bordeaux, who took an intense Church Road 1 Single Vineyard Terraces Chardonnay (NZ$70); and the approach based purely on taste. That was scary, because it was abandoning pinnacle label – as its price conveys - Church Road Tom Chardonnay (NZ$150). science and trusting your palate. That was a real battle for Tony, but now it’s the widely accepted approach.” Underlining his talent for making superb chardonnay, Scott’s Church Road 1 Single Vineyard Terraces Hawke's Bay Chardonnay 2019 also placed among At the summit of Scott’s output stands the Tom trio. Dedicated to the memory our top five chardonnay finalists for 2021. of Tom McDonald, a key pioneer of winemaking in Hawke's Bay, who died in 1987, this elite range includes three exceptional, high-priced Hawke's Bay Founded in 1896 by Bartholomew Steinmetz, a lay brother at the adjacent wines – Church Road Tom Chardonnay ($NZ150), Church Road Tom Syrah Marist Mission (now Mission Estate Winery), Church Road is today owned (NZ$220), and Church Road Tom Merlot Cabernet ($NZ220). by Pernod Ricard New Zealand. Red wines, based on merlot (especially), cabernet sauvignon, blends of those two traditional Bordeaux varieties, and So how do you make a $NZ220 wine? “We start in the vineyard,” says Scott, syrah, are also a highlight of the winery’s output. “targeting blocks we know produce our best wines. The vines get extra work, with more shoot thinning, leaf plucking and bunch removal, to promote full In this year’s Winestate Wine of the Year awards, Scott dominated the merlot ripening of the grapes. And because the wines are more powerful, denser, category, not only winning Merlot of the Year with the powerful, dark, deep the barrels they are matured in have a high percentage of new French oak.” Church Road Grand Reserve Hawke's Bay Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 (NZ$45), but also claiming a further two top five spots with Church Road 1 What distinguishes Tom wines, from their Grand Reserve stablemates, at Single Vineyard Gimblett Gravels Merlot 2016 (NZ$90), and the Church Road least NZ$100 cheaper? “They are not all that dissimilar, in terms of complexity,” 1 Single Vineyard Redstone Merlot 2019 ($NZ90). says Scott. “But the primary focus of everything we do at Church Road is ‘mouthfeel’ – achieving fullness, roundness and plushness. Tom should be But wait, there’s more. The sturdy, Alsace-style Church Road Hawke's Bay seamless, complete.” Pinot Gris (NZ$20) also placed in the top five in the pinot gris category, and the weighty, complex, tropical fruit-flavoured Church Road Grand Reserve What is blatantly clear is that wine made at any price point in the capable Barrel Fermented Hawke's Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2019 placed in the top five hands of Scott is worth seeking out. in the sauvignon blanc category (otherwise dominated by four wines from Marlborough) as well! FINALISTS Do Hawke's Bay’s greatest wines enjoy the overseas profile they clearly A. B. C. deserve? “We can’t compete with other countries on volume,” says Scott. “Our future is in producing the best wines. I’d like to see some of Hawke's A. James Macdonald - Hunter's NZ Bay’s international accolades develop into greater demand.” He points to the B. Duncan Shouler - Giesen fact that reds from the Gimblett Gravels district perform well in blind tastings C. Marcus Wright - Lawson's Dry Hill NZ against top labels from Bordeaux. “Ours are undervalued.” D. Kevin Judd - Greywacke How did Scott get into winemaking? He grew up in a wine-drinking family, D. “which was unusual back in those days. Wine was seen as a woman’s drink in a beer-drinking culture. Dad was probably the only painter-decorator in Hamilton [south of Auckland] who preferred wine to beer. Mum was a midwife. They’d come from the UK. Wine was always served with dinner and we’d be allowed the odd sip on special occasions.” Studying business management at Waikato University, Scott struggled to feel inspired. “On the wine trail in Hawke's Bay, I remember tasting Ngatarawa Wine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022 W I N E S TAT E 49

AUSTRALIAN wine company of the year AUSTRALIAN VINTAGE LIMITED “Perhaps even more significantly for a listed company, AVL reported a 127% lift in net profit for the first half of the financial year with its share price surfing along at record highs.” NIGEL HOPKINS WHEN your company has been named the best wine company in Australia “My approach has been to take what were really good assets and really for the fourth time, in fact for the past three years in a row, it not only good winemaking skills and drive them towards a more consumer-led pillar throws out a considerable challenge to the rest of the wine industry – it brand strategy – away from the more production, more bulk wine approach also makes you wonder what they’re doing so right. based around McGuigan Wines. We’ve taken on a stronger consumer-pull strategy, working very hard with our retailers.” For the Winestate judges it was the sheer volume of five-star wines across the board that has put Australian Vintage at the forefront of the Australian Garvin is especially excited by the potential of the Barossa Valley Wine wine industry. That’s the end result that we all can see. Company and Nepenthe Wines, where AVL is in the process of spending $1.5 million on a cellar door and winery upgrade. But it also demands a closer look behind the scenes at the winemaking capabilities and management strategies that have made it all possible. “I think Nepenthe is a killer brand,” he says. “It was popular in South Australia but on the East Coast no-one knew about it, even though it stands The first win was in 2003 when the company was McGuigan Wines. It up against the very best brands. It just hadn’t been promoted properly in was a period of expansion with McGuigan merging with Simeon Wines the rest of the country. Now it’s doing really well. to create Australia’s fourth largest wine group, quickly followed by the acquisition of Miranda Wines and Nepenthe Wines, and by 2008 its “I’m really optimistic about both Nepenthe and Barossa Valley Wine renaming as Australian Vintage Ltd (AVL). Considerable international Company, both of which have been underdone for years. It’s all been acclaim followed and in 2012 and 2016 Australian Vintage was named about McGuigan. Now we want to take Barossa Valley Wine Company to International Winemaker of the Year at IWSC London. the world. We think its wines are tremendous. But, says Craig Garvin, who took over as CEO from Neil McGuigan in To help do this, Garvin says AVL’s winemakers are now less focussed 2019 – when it was again named Winestate’s Wine Company of the Year – on winning gongs for their wines: “We’re now very much running a points it was all very much about McGuigan Wines, not its portfolio of brands. A strategy rather than a medal strategy,” he says. “We’re now trying very year ago, when AVL won the accolade again, Garvin was able to add: “A hard to get our top wines taken very seriously.” complete review of the leadership group and strategy had been completed and the necessary changes made”. While Garvin agrees that when he took the top job it was time to make significant changes at AVL, it had nothing to do with the winemaking. Those changes have clearly been effective. Although it was already crushing about 7% of total Australian annual production from its 2,700ha “We’ve had excellent wines and excellent winemakers and great of vineyards, it’s 2021 vintage recorded a 15% increase to116,600 capability, but now we’ve pulled them out from under the shadow of tonnes. Overall sales of AVL’s key brands were up by 17% on 2020, with McGuigan and let them show off what they do in all our brands. 12% increases in the UK, US and Europe. While China sales virtually disappeared, they hadn’t been a big component of revenue and Asian “I haven’t changed the winemaking strategy except to say we need to be sales overall were up by 11 per cent. a points driven wine company and our top wines to have that credibility.” Perhaps even more significantly for a listed company, AVL reported a Could that mean even more five-star wines and yet another crowning as 127% lift in net profit for the first half of the financial year with its share Wine Company of the Year? price surfing along at record highs. FINALISTS Taylors “What we’ve done is not rocket science,” Garvin says. “It’s common Z Wine sense. We’ve now got a much more balanced scorecard approach. CW Wines Reillys “Whilst Covid-19 appears to have had an overall positive impact on our business, a significant portion of the growth has come from long-term sustainable strategies such as innovation, people capability, improved consumer trading technology and improved production efficiencies.” Critically, he says, AVL is now pushing a pillar brand strategy for its four key brands – Nepenthe, McGuigan Wines, Barossa Valley Wine Company and Tempus Two. “A few years ago it was all about McGuigan Wines,” Garvin says. “But if you look at our company now we’re pushing those four pillar brands really hard. Three out of four years ago those brands accounted for 50% of our overall volume – that’s now 71%. 50 W I N E S TAT E W ine of the Year Awards Annual Edition 2022